S T A R T E R S
Q& A
jaCk the Lad
WE CHAT WITH MATT MASON, CELEBRATING 25 YEARS AS HEAD CHEF AT THE JACK IN THE GREEN, ABOUT WHAT MAKES HIM TICK Congrats on your 25 years at the Jack in the Green. What is it about it that you love? I think maybe because its feels less like a job and genuinely just like I belong here. Paul [Parnell, the proprietor] has always given me the freedom to express myself through food and never once has he asked me to compromise on the things that I consider to be really important. How has the food evolved at the Jack during your career? Ironically, I’m not sure we really have changed a lot. Trends and fashions have come and gone but our ethics have remained the same. We set out to offer value for money and I will never forget our original mantra (we even had it on the outside of a beaten-up van once): ”Everything a good pub should be”. This is something that still rings true today. Fondest foodie memories from your time at the Jack? Wow, there are so many. A boozy lunch with Paul at Le Gavroche springs to mind or, more recently, cooking with my sous chef at the South West Chef of the Year dinner, or one of my many demos at the South West Festival of Food and Drink. Describe your style of cooking. Respectful. Nature does the hard work.
Proudest career achievement? It has to be achieving 25 years as head chef with the same pub. I am nothing if not loyal! You work alongside your wife, Joanne. Is it difficult to strike a work/life balance? It is something we have to work hard at, and I am much better at it now than ever before. I would say it is largely down to Joanne being so supportive – she knows that running the kitchen can be stressful and, because we are trying to be the best we can be, it often takes time. Favourite suppliers? Flying Fish Seafoods in Cornwall – Johnny Godden is a straight talking, no-nonsense kinda guy and I like that. To be honest, I think all our suppliers are brilliant, or I wouldn't use them. Creedy Carver have been with us since day one, as has Steve, who’s our local butcher in Ottery St Mary. Restaurants you like dining at in Devon? I admire Robin at The Rusty Pig greatly for his ability to create something so unique. It’s a real reflection of him as an individual, and he doesn't take himself too seriously either. Scott at Boringdon Hall is cooking out of his skin at the moment. He seems to be a chef on a mission. Also, I really like the Pyne Arms – it’s a proper pub.
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What makes the local foodie scene so great? Diversity. There is literally something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Personally, I always try to support the local independent restaurants. Favourite cookery book? Shaun Hill’s Gidleigh Park Cookery Book. I have a well-used and signed copy from my time working with him. He’s probably still the chef I look up to most. Favourite ingredients at the moment? Through the winter months it has been sprout tops and all the brassicas. What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Looking back, and in retrospect, probably a pigeon dish at Marco Pierre White’s on my 21st birthday, which seems like a very long time ago! Foodie heroes? That would definitely be Paul Ainsworth, who not only runs several amazing businesses, has an adoring and beautiful family, puts out great quality TV content, and is currently training for a marathon – but seemingly manages to do all of this with a smile on his face, and without breaking a sweat! jackinthegreen.uk.com