Crumbs Devon – Issue 26

CRUMBS DEVON NO.26 SPRING 2019

CRUMBSMAG.COM #26 SPRING 2019

What does garlic do when it gets too hot?

Takes its cloves off!

YOU DON’T KNOW JACK! MATT MASON’S

20 YEARS AFTER OUR TWO

SECRETS FROM 25 YEARS AT JACK IN THE GREEN

DECADES IN DEVON BY THE TANNER BROS

+ BRIXHAM BOY

WE’V E’VE E’V LOST OUR HEARTS ARTS TO

AT HOME WITH MITCH TONKS

+ WHERE THE DART IS

BEST OF DARTMOUTH REVEALED

+ CURRY

WILD AT HEART

IN A HURRY!

BOOM KITCHEN’S COOL KITS

STINKING STINKI J ENNY ENN Y SPRING

BREAKERS 9 FRESH RECIPES FROM THE REGION’S TOP COOKS

SHE’S FREE! SHE’S EASY!

THaT’ aaT’S WiLD LD GGaRLiC TO yyOU anDD Me

AND

SHE TASTES DIVINE!

PluS! THE ANTIDOTE LEAPING SALMON RUST AND THE WOLF LYMPSTONE’S SWAN

wILD aT hEART AS WINTERS GO, 2019 has been a pretty bizarre one weather-wise, hasn’t it? As I type, it’s late February and I’ve already ditched my coat and jumper to walk around in shirt sleeves – rain is promised for tomorrow, however. But while the sunshine may be a more than welcome respite from the general gloominess of winter, we must spare a thought for our wildlife. Mammals like hedgehogs and dormice are getting confused and prematurely coming out of hibernation, while birds are migrating back to the UK – where there’s not yet much food in the trees and hedges to sustain them. I’m not one for wishing the sun away, but here’s hoping normal weather patterns return soon.

Thankfully, it was a pleasant few days when I took a foodie foray to Dartmouth for this issue’s area focus.

Having been to the local food festival a few times, it was great to pay a visit out of season – and explore with fewer people milling around. With the opening of Elly Wentworth at The Angel, a few doors down from The Seahorse, it really feels like Dartmouth’s food scene is on the up. Read more on page 46. Speaking of The Seahorse, we also had the pleasure of being invited into boss Mitch Tonks’ Brixham home for a natter and a nose around this issue. With a stunning location overlooking Brixham harbour, and an open plan living space complete with indoor Ox grill, we could happily have moved in. Check out his covetable living quarters on page 37.

On the cover is wild garlic – due to make its appearance this month. Devon’s woodland floors are oft abundant with the stuff, which you can forage and add to everything from soups to sandwiches. Read all about it on page 8.

As well as all that, we’ve got the usual recipes, reviews and a cracking interview with the Tanner brothers, who’re celebrating 20 years in Devon. I hope you enjoy.

Melissa Stewart, Editor melissa.stewart@mediaclash.co.uk

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Table of Contents

crumbsmag.com EDITOR

MELISSA STEWART melissa.stewart@mediaclash.co.uk

NO.26 SPRING 2019

DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM

STARTERS

ADVERTISING MANAGER

KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk

08 HERO INGREDIENT Go wild for wild garlic 17 ASK THE EXPERT Turning up the heat with Boom Kitchen

DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER

ALISTAIR TAYLOR alistair.taylor@mediaclash.co.uk ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE

NATALIE BRERETON natalie.brereton@mediaclash.co.uk

CHEF!

PRODUCTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk

AMAZING REGIONAL RECIPES

DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER

KIRSTIE HOWE kirstie.howe@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION DESIGNER

MATT GYNN matt.gynn@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVES

JANE INGHAM, GREG INGHAM large version

MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800; www.mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash.

MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication.

Opinions are those of individual authors.

Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management.

large version

24 Roast best end of lamb, ratatouille and fondant potatoes, by Michael Caines 27 ‘Crabcini’, by Titley Green 28 ‘Sgt. Pepper’ seaweed butter and umami oyster, by Doug Grigg 30 Leek with wild garlic gribiche,

by Riverford Field Kitchen 32 Chocolate blood orange bavarois and St Clements sorbet, by Sophie Kennard 33 Pan seared rib eye steak with crispy shallots and pork jus, by Tom Allbrook ADDITIONAL RECIPES

09 Roasted gurnard, by Mitch Tonks 21 OK beef, by Kwoklyn Wan 54 Beetroot and gin cured gravadlax salmon, by the Tanner brothers

KITCHEN ARMOURY

37 HOUSE CALL At home with Mitch Tonks in Brixham

MAINS

46 DOWN BY THE DART Places to eat and drink in Dartmouth 51 GRILLED A chat with Plymouth’s Tanner brothers

AFTERS NEW & NOTABLE RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS, BARS

58 The Antidote 61 The Swan Inn 62 The Leaping Salmon 64 Rust and the Wolf 66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK With Anna Elliot at Eversfield Organic

s A ST RTER

INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

FeSTIvAL FeveR

SPRING IS IN THE AIR AND WITH IT THE FIRST CROP OF DEVON FOOD FESTIVALS. HERE ARE A FEW WE’LL BE HITTING UP…

M ATT AU STIN

25-26 MAY RIVER COTTAGE FOOD FAIR

4-6 MAY EXETER FESTIVAL OF SOUTH WEST FOOD AND DRINK

Back for its 16th year, the South West’s ultimate food event will be returning to the idyllic surroundings of Exeter Castle Courtyard and Northernhay Gardens.

With workshop activities and over 100 exhibitors in two large pavilions, plus chef demos in the cookery theatre, it’s a long weekend not to be missed. As ever, festival co-founder Michael Caines will be fronting the event.

Day tickets £22.50 per adult, £17.50 for under 16s. exeterfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk

Can you believe it’s been 20 years since Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall opened River Cottage? To mark the anniversary year, the annual RC Food Fair looks to be one of the best yet, with appearances from Yotam Ottolenghi, Chetna Makan, Gill Mellor, Samin Nosrat and many more.

You can also rustle up wild cocktails, pickles or ramen at one of the many festival masterclasses. Tickets £15, under 16s go free. rivercottage.net

31 MAY - 2 JUNE

5 MAY SALCOMBE CRAB FESTIVAL

FLAVOUR FEST

Escape to the coast for the early May bank holiday weekend and discover a familyfriendly festival inspired by the sea – and Salcombe’s celebrated brown crab. Enjoy free entry to a cracking line-up of chef demos, exhibitors and live music on Sunday, with associated special events happening across the weekend hosted by Gara Rock, Jamie Rogers at The Wardroom, Salcombe Gin and Crew Clothing Co. salcombecrabfest.co.uk

Plymouth’s free foodie event Flavour Fest returns this year, and promises to be bigger and better than ever. A packed line-up of talented regional chefs, including the Tanner brothers, will be joined by Great British Bake Off alumni Nadiya Hussain and Steven Carter-Bailey to cook up a storm in the Cookery Theatre, while there will be over 100 exhibitors selling their wares. flavourfestsw.co.uk

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WILD GARLIC

NOW IS THE TIME TO ENJOY EARLY SPRING GREENS, AND FEW ARE MORE ABUNDANT (OR DELICIOUS) THAN WILD GARLIC. DOWN IN THE WOODS, SOMETHING FIERY AND VERSATILE LURKS – BUT TO FIND IT, YOU MAY NEED YOUR WELLIES…

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E

veryone admires wild garlic, it seems – the latin name, Allium ursinum, comes from the way brown bears love to dig up the bulbs, and across Europe wild boar like to chomp on them, too. Around the world folk call it bear garlic (or bear leek), amongst a rambling dictionary of colourful names: wood garlic, broad-leaved garlic, devil’s garlic, gypsy’s onion, stinking Jenny, ramsons, buckrams… Confusingly, the related Allium vineale is also sometimes called wild garlic (more commonly: crow garlic), but it’s pretty yucky stuff.

Wild garlic – the good variety – is a sort of chive that grows in moist, semi-shaded, preferably acidic soils. You tend to find it in ancient woodlands and fenlands, by riverbanks and drainage ditches, where it flowers (alongside the bluebell) while the trees are still bare, filling the place with a distinct, softly pungent garlic smell. (Presumably, this makes springtime woods a safe haven from vampires.)

Leaves are broad, pointed and lush, and the flowers small, white and late blooming, only appearing towards the end of the season. (You’re best picking yours in April, before the flowers appear; after this the leaves become tougher, more bitter.)

One great thing about wild garlic is that you can eat pretty much all of it – bulbs, buds, flowers – though the leaves are the prize, the rest being too tiny to really bother with.

Once washed, they’re are especially good in raw in salads, where they add pleasing fire, blanched like spinach, or as a basil replacement in something like pesto. They’re more chive-esque than regular garlic, or perhaps more oniony: certainly, wild garlic shares their sharp yet sweet qualities, enhancing other flavours rather than overpowering them.

Historically, cows fed on the stuff are said to give a slightly garlicflavoured milk; butter made of it was much prized in central Europe a century or so ago; and there’s some evidence the Swiss were deliberately using wild garlic as fodder up to 10,000 years back.

Assuming you’re not going the long way round to get your garlic butter, what to do with it? Well, wild garlic is fun with lamb, salmon and trout (or duck, pork and chicken) – indeed, there’s little spring produce to which it isn’t a useful foil. It enjoys the company of asparagus and spring onions; it livens up lentils, pasta and risottos. In soups and sauces, or with gently flavoured foods – think cream, or cottage cheese – it adds a useful background spark. (It’s great, for instance, chopped up in mashed potato – or served with Jersey Royals.) Oh, and it adores eggs: on omelettes, or mixed into scrambled.

There are problems, of course. The small white leaves make it look a lot like Lily of the Valley (and a tiny bit like autumn crocus and wild arum), all poisonous blighters you’re best off avoiding. (Happily, this is not difficult: wild garlic is the only one to smell properly garlicky when you grind a bit of leaf between your fingers.) And foraging has its own rules: it’s rude to uproot, unless specifically allowed to by the landowner; you shouldn’t trample other species while on the prowl; and it’s best to stay away from nature reserves.

Oh, and you have to know where to find it. (Yes, there are farmers’ markets – but that’s cheating!)

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MITCH TONKS EXPLAINS HOW TO MAKE A SPRITELY SPRING SUPPER USING WILD GARLIC ROASTED GURNARD WITH SALSA VERDE AND WILD GARLIC “I particularly like the rough chopped salsa verde,” says Mitch. “It is fresh tasting and offers a real contrast of flavours, especially with the addition of the wild garlic.”

SERVES 4 bunch of spring onions, chopped ½ cucumber, peeled, deseeded, chopped into fine dice 1 green pepper, peeled, deseeded, chopped into fine dice 2 tbsp salted capers, chopped 1 dill pickle, finely chopped 1 tbsp tarragon, finely chopped 1 tbsp parsley, finely chopped 1 tbsp mint, finely chopped 1 tbsp chives, finely chopped 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp white wine vinegar juice of 1 lime handful of wild garlic leaves, finely sliced salt and pepper 1 gurnard fillet (about 170g) 1 Mix all the ingredients together for the salsa verde – spring onions, cucumber, green pepper, capers, dill pickle, herbs, oil, vinegar and lime juice.

2 Add the wild garlic, season and taste. Try to achieve a nice balance of crunch, salt, pickle and freshness.

3 Heat a tablespoon of oil in a pan and get it hot. Add the fish, skin side down, for 4 minutes, then finish cooking in a hot oven at about 220C/450F/gas mark 8 for a further 3-4 minutes.

4 Take out of the oven and remove the skin. Spread the salsa verde out on the plate and sit the gurnard fillet on top. seahorserestaurant.co.uk

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S T A R T E R S

In the Larder

4.

PIE O'C LOC K

3.

RAI SE A GLA SS

5.

SPR EAD THE LOV E

AMY @ G IR L B

E H IN D

THELE

NS

1.

GIV E IT A KIC K

2.

RUM PUN CH

SpRinG sCOff

HERE ARE SOME DELICIOUS DEVON GOODIES WE’VE BEEN CHOMPING AND GUZZLING ON RECENTLY… 1 SOUTH DEVON CHILLI FARM KETCHUP, 280g/£3.50 Not gonna lie, we're pretty condiment mad.

Mayo, mustard, ketchup, sweet chilli… basically, if you can dunk your food in it, it gets a thumbs up from us. So, we were super chuffed when those lovely peeps at South Devon Chilli Farm sent us a box of their new ketchups to try. There are three flavours: cool jalapeno, smoky chipotle and hot habanero. We were particularly taken with the hot habanero, which is punchy but deliciously fruity – excellent with chips or added to spag bol for a lively kick. Available across Devon in independent delis and farm shops, or online. southdevonchillifarm.co.uk 2 HATTIERS PREMIUM RESERVE RUM, 70cl/£42 They say rum is the new gin and that’s alright with us, particularly as we're very partial to a Dark ’n’ Stormy. Hattiers is the brainchild of Philip Everett-Lyons, bottled in South Devon and named after his daughter. It blends four aged rums, sourced from Barbados, the Dominican Republic, Panama and Guatemala, with Dartmoor spring water. It’s got fruity and caramel flavours on the palate, followed by woody, oaky

notes, and a long, creamy finish. Tastes delicious on its own, or with Luscombe’s Lime Crush or Hot Ginger Beer. Available nationwide at John Lewis or from Hattiers online. hattiers.com 3 SALCOMBE BREWERY ISLAND STREET PORTER, 330ml/£2.50 If you like your beer, then you must check out the latest launch from Salcombe Brewery. Island Street Porter has an ABV of 5.9% and is a rich, dark, sumptuous porter which combines hints of black cherry, chocolate and coffee. It’s the first porter from the brewery, which is best-known for its hop-driven beers, and gets its name from Salcombe’s Island Street – a nod to the town’s boat building past. Best enjoyed on its own or to complement a rich dessert, like sticky toffee pud. Island Street Porter is available in individual bottles or in a case of 12 (RRP £30) from Salcombe Brewery. salcombebrewery.com 4 CHUNK OF DEVON SPICY JACK PIE, £3.50 each We’ve long been fans of this Ottery St Marybased pie brand, so it’s great to see them branching out from their traditional meat pie offering with this inventive, and yummy, Spicy

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Jack Pie. Jackfruit is having something of a moment thanks to the surge in vegan-based diets, and with its fleshy texture makes a good meat substitute. Here, it’s paired with coconut milk, curry spices, potatoes, squash and peppers and encased in wholewheat pastry. Available from independent stores and farm shops across Devon or online. chunkofdevon.co.uk 5 BUTTER BIKE CO. CINNAMON AND RAISIN PEANUT BUTTER, 280g/£5 Who doesn’t love peanut butter? Okay, even if you don’t, you gotta give this delicious Exetermade spread a chance. Created in small batches

by Jeni Reeve, and delivered across Devon by the woman herself on her trusty bike, it’s smack full of flavour and tastes the bomb on a bagel. Made with juicy raisins and toasty warm cinnamon, it’s also delicious stirred into porridge on a chilly morning. If cinnamon and raisin’s not your bag, Jeni also makes dark chocolate and smoked chilli butters, as well as a traditional peanut butter. All butters are vegan and palm oil free, with no added sugar. Available from the Boatyard Bakery and Ebdons Refreshments in Exeter and Sharpham Wine & Cheese in Totnes. butterbike.co.uk

Openings etc SEAFOOD IN THE CITY

MITCH TONKS has taken his seafood restaurant concept to the city with the opening of Rockfish Exeter on 18 March.

The new Rockfish is situated in a swanky purpose-built glass-fronted building on Exeter Quay. As well as the traditional fish and chips, visitors will have the opportunity to try a range of fish and seafood grilled or cooked on the plancha, fresh from Devon’s coastline.

“Rockfish is mainly in coastal towns but Exeter is such a vibrant and growing city that it made sense for a restaurant to be there,” says Mitch. “It’s great being on the Quay, and it’s something of a departure from our usual wooden buildings – this one’s glass – so it’s going to be a little bit different.” therockfish.co.uk

FOOD FACTORY

DEVON BEER makers Hanlons Brewery have teamed up with the folks behind the street food van La Cantina to launch the new Beer Factory and Kitchen. The restaurant is on-site at the brewery’s premises in Newton St Cyres, just outside Exeter, and will be serving up La Cantina’s signature burgers, loaded fries and other American-style street food. All of which will taste great washed down with a cool Hanlons beer. You can take a tour of the brewery and pair it with a ‘flight of beers and matching burger sides’ or, if you fancy a night in, a takeaway option is also be available.

“Beer Factory and Kitchen offers the opportunity to enjoy seeing how a craft brewery operates and taste the results, while joining us for a meal you will never forget of locally sourced, farm to plate, rustic comfort food,” says head chef and co-owner, Tim Golder. hanlonsbrewery.com

SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING

MAGDALEN ROAD in Exeter is already a mecca of cool, independent shops and a food lover’s dream, so it’s great to hear that it’s set to get a zero-waste store.

Sarah Martin, founder of Nourish in Topsham, is gearing up to open a second branch in Exeter, replacing the wholefood shop The Bran Tub. The Nourish range include nuts, seeds, pulses, grains and pasta, tea and coffee, plus over 50 herbs and spices, hemp seed, flour, dried fruit, sea salt and sugars. Customers take their own tubs and jars and have them filled up in-store, saving on unwanted packaging. Each individual sale is counted by the business as one piece of plastic saved; since the Topsham shop opened, the total already equates to tens of thousands of pieces saved.

“This area is a great fit for the business,” Sarah explains. “Magdalen Road has a greengrocer, fishmonger, butcher, deli and soon a provisions store for dry goods, fresh products and environmentally friendly non-consumables. Astute shoppers can bypass supermarket shopping entirely, if they wish.”

Result, right? The new store is due to open in mid-April. nourishoftopsham.com

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hip shOps FIELD TO FORK

WE DON’T need many excuses to pay a visit to Riverford Field Kitchen because we’re already devout fans, but for those who haven’t been, you may be enticed by some of the exciting workshops and events they’ve got planned this year. From wild cocktail making and growing your own cut flower garden, to field to fork farm tours and veg masterclasses, there’s a range of enticing options to get your foodie juices flowing. fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk

EBDONS REFRESHMENTS What: Deli, café and bar WHEN: Mon-Sat 8am-10.30pm, Sun 10am-10pm WHERE: 174 Sidwell Street, Exeter EX4 6RH

e COOMBE HERE! THE COOMBE Cellars, situated in Combeinteignhead near Newton Abbot, has had a snazzy refit and makeover. Sitting on the Teign Estuary, the historic country pub and restaurant is a popular spot for dog walkers and wildlife lovers, looking to rest their legs and refuel.

Embracing its water setting, the pub has a new nautical theme, as well as an exciting new menu, which features the usual pub favourites like fish and chips, but also a range of low-calorie options, appealing to healthconscious diners. Dishes under 750 calories include king prawn, crab and chorizo linguine, and stir-fried beef fillet salad. There are also plenty of vegan options, including roasted lentil falafel, an impressively-stacked burger with slow-roasted tomato sauce, and a spiced coconut curry. thecoombecellars.co.uk

bdons Refreshments has quietly been making waves on the Exeter food scene for a few months now. By day, it’s a deli and café, championing the finest local produce and suppliers, and by night it’s a cosy bar, where you’re just as welcome to order a beer as a coffee.

It takes its name from owner Polly Harrison’s ancestors, who ran the original Ebdons Refreshments across Devon over 100 years ago, with a legacy that involved inns, butchers and farms.

“When we were looking for inspiration for the identity of our business, we decided to follow in the Ebdon footsteps and are proud to be bearing the name of so many brilliant Devon people,” says Polly, who runs the business with partner Nigel Watts.

Ebdons serve great coffee, roasted

by Voyager in Buckfastleigh, alongside wines and craft beers, on tap and in bottles. Food is freshly made every day – from homemade granola in the morning to soups, stews and salads for all day eating and cooked brunches at the weekends. “We also make cheese and meat platters from local produce, and most of what we sell in the café is available to buy in our deli to take home,” says Polly.

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Most of the produce is local and all the food is homemade. Poppy’s sister, Sarnia, makes most of the cakes (the carrot cake is a particular favourite), while the sourdough is made at St Sidwell’s Community Centre, just across the road from the café.

When it comes to favourite dishes, Poppy says: “Our stews are popular at all times of day. Examples are parsnip and caraway, butterbean and onion, cauliflower cheese soup and lentil dal.

People love our coffee too, and the cakes are developing a fan base all of their own. Our short cocktail list has also had rave reviews.”

All dietary requirements are catered for, and there are always vegetarian and vegan options on the menu. With such a mixed offering, it’s little wonder that Ebdons attracts a varied clientele.

“We have a range of customers from different age groups and backgrounds, though they seem to be united by wanting real food and quality drinks in a welcoming, friendly and warm environment. People looking to read a book or work on their laptops with a coffee seem as comfortable and at-home as large groups coming for after-work drinks or a dinner party.” ebdonsrefreshments.com

S T A R T E R S

ThE

INSTA FEEd

aSK yOUR waITER

Q& A

WE QUIZ LISA KEECH, FRONT OF HOUSE MANAGER AT THE KITCHEN AT THE DONKEY SANCTUARY

@greentablecafe Prepping the fresh-off-the-boat herring for the weekend special

How long have you worked here?

I joined The Donkey Sanctuary in August 2018.

What’s the best thing about your job?

Besides the beautiful donkeys, it’s definitely the people. Everyone is just so passionate and dedicated, and it’s really great to be part of such a cohesive team, all working towards the charity’s vision.

What’s the most challenging part of the job?

Working at a large 240-seat restaurant can, at times, be quite challenging, particularly as we’re open 364 days a year.

@lewtrenchardmanor Baked Cornish hake, cauliflower, grapes, parsley

@thejackinthegreen Butter poached cod with brown shrimps, fennel and dill YOUR PIC COULD BE HERE! Just use #CrumbsSnaps on your foodie Insta posts and we might print one of yours next issue...

What skills have you learnt since coming here?

Everyone who works for The Donkey Sanctuary attends the introduction to donkey care course, where you get practical hands-on experience with donkeys, including mucking out a stable, and catching and grooming a donkey. It was certainly a refreshing change to the usual job-specific training!

What sort of customers do you get?

We welcome lots of different people of all ages, including loyal supporters of The Donkey Sanctuary and families just visiting for a fun day out.

What are the best-selling dishes at the moment?

We have lots of plant-based options on the menu, which are proving to be very popular, particularly our Indian-inspired tarka dhal: a warming bowl of aromatic curried lentils served with a red onion, beef steak tomato and micro coriander salad, homemade coconut flatbread and pineapple Otter Vale chutney.

Our hearty Sunday roasts, served from October to March each year, are also really well-received, with hundreds of people enjoying them each week.

What are the best-selling drinks?

Our coffee is hands-down our best-seller; we serve our own unique blend of Ethiopian and Colombian beans roasted locally especially for us, which are 100% Arabica and sourced through Fairtrade partners. It has become so popular that we have people visiting us just for this!

If you were a customer today, what would you order?

It would absolutely have to be the full English breakfast.

The locally-cured, bacon and farmhouse sausages are just delicious, and it really sets you up for the day ahead.

Finally, what makes great customer service?

For me, it means a warm and friendly welcome, providing value for money and doing everything with a smile – which are the core values I instil in my team.

thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk/the-kitchen

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Q& A

jaCk the Lad

WE CHAT WITH MATT MASON, CELEBRATING 25 YEARS AS HEAD CHEF AT THE JACK IN THE GREEN, ABOUT WHAT MAKES HIM TICK Congrats on your 25 years at the Jack in the Green. What is it about it that you love? I think maybe because its feels less like a job and genuinely just like I belong here. Paul [Parnell, the proprietor] has always given me the freedom to express myself through food and never once has he asked me to compromise on the things that I consider to be really important.

How has the food evolved at the Jack during your career? Ironically, I’m not sure we really have changed a lot. Trends and fashions have come and gone but our ethics have remained the same. We set out to offer value for money and I will never forget our original mantra (we even had it on the outside of a beaten-up van once): ”Everything a good pub should be”.

This is something that still rings true today.

Fondest foodie memories from your time at the Jack? Wow, there are so many. A boozy lunch with Paul at Le Gavroche springs to mind or, more recently, cooking with my sous chef at the South West Chef of the Year dinner, or one of my many demos at the South West Festival of Food and Drink.

Describe your style of cooking.

Respectful. Nature does the hard work.

Proudest career achievement? It has to be achieving 25 years as head chef with the same pub. I am nothing if not loyal!

You work alongside your wife, Joanne. Is it difficult to strike a work/life balance?

It is something we have to work hard at, and I am much better at it now than ever before. I would say it is largely down to Joanne being so supportive – she knows that running the kitchen can be stressful and, because we are trying to be the best we can be, it often takes time.

Favourite suppliers? Flying Fish Seafoods in Cornwall – Johnny Godden is a straight talking, no-nonsense kinda guy and I like that. To be honest, I think all our suppliers are brilliant, or I wouldn't use them. Creedy Carver have been with us since day one, as has Steve, who’s our local butcher in Ottery St Mary.

Restaurants you like dining at in Devon?

I admire Robin at The Rusty Pig greatly for his ability to create something so unique.

It’s a real reflection of him as an individual, and he doesn't take himself too seriously either. Scott at Boringdon Hall is cooking out of his skin at the moment. He seems to be a chef on a mission. Also, I really like the Pyne Arms – it’s a proper pub.

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What makes the local foodie scene so great? Diversity. There is literally something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Personally, I always try to support the local independent restaurants.

Favourite cookery book? Shaun Hill’s Gidleigh Park Cookery Book. I have a well-used and signed copy from my time working with him. He’s probably still the chef I look up to most.

Favourite ingredients at the moment?

Through the winter months it has been sprout tops and all the brassicas.

What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten? Looking back, and in retrospect, probably a pigeon dish at Marco Pierre White’s on my 21st birthday, which seems like a very long time ago!

Foodie heroes? That would definitely be Paul Ainsworth, who not only runs several amazing businesses, has an adoring and beautiful family, puts out great quality TV content, and is currently training for a marathon – but seemingly manages to do all of this with a smile on his face, and without breaking a sweat! jackinthegreen.uk.com

Ask the Expert

SOme LIKe it hOt

WE ASK JAMES DOEL, CO-FOUNDER OF DEVON’S AWARD-WINNING HOME CURRY KIT MAKERS BOOM KITCHEN, FOR HIS TAKE ON WHAT MAKES A DECENT CURRY

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Hi James, great to meet you. Tell us, why do you reckon we Brits love curry so much?

I think the reason we love it, and that it’s become a national institution, is because we’ve made the dishes our own. They’ve evolved – in and out of India – for hundreds of years to appeal to us Brits, and that evolution continues today with products like our own.

But I also think it’s easy to understand why any nation might fall in love with curry. It’s colourful, vibrant, spicy – almost the perfect comfort food, and a great antidote to traditional British dishes.

All this being the case, then, I find it harder to understand why a nation wouldn’t embrace curry. I’m always amused by the reaction we get from some of the French people we meet at events – it’s almost like we’re living in a parallel universe, with terms like korma, bhuna and jalfrezi completely alien to many French people. They don’t know what they’re missing!

What do you know about the history of curry eating in the UK? When did it all begin?

The curry has a fascinating history – Hollywood could only do it justice by bringing Bill and Ted back to do an excellent adventure in curry through the ages. Here’s a brief history…

14th century – Richard II’s chefs document a recipe for a spicy stew, using a spice mix not a million miles away from today’s garam masala.

15th century – Portugal’s Vasco De Gama introduces chillies to India.

17th century – The East India Company is established, creating trading routes between Britain and India. Back home, curry starts appearing on restaurant menus.

19th century – Nationalisation of the East India Company brings in the British Raj era.

The jalfrezi is born, as Indian chefs spice up leftovers from expat Sunday roasts by stir frying meat with chillies and onions.

20th century – Urban legend credits chef Ali Ahmed Aslam as creator of the chicken tikka masala. In fact, Ali is said to have improvised a sauce with tomato soup, yogurt and spices in an attempt to appease a disgruntled Glaswegian bus driver!

For the full curry timeline, check out our blog: boomkitchen.co.uk/blogs/news There are so many curry varieties – Indian, Thai, Sri Lankan, African, Caribbean… What do they have in common?

For me, they all share the holy trinity that makes a curry: meat or veg, sauce and spice. It’s that simple. Different countries have different twists, though, based on ingredients readily available, local preferences and traditions.

Even curries that you might associate with one country tend to have an interesting crossborder history. Take the vindaloo, which you

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can get in any curry house in the UK today. It originated in Goa in the 16th century, but was actually inspired by a Portuguese dish that marinated meat in wine. The Goans then added chillies to make the dish we recognise today.

But where did they get the chillies from? The Portuguese again, who introduced them to the Indian continent in the 1400s via Central and South America.

How different are British curries to traditional Indian or Sri Lankan curries?

Some of the recipes are fundamentally different; for example, Indians don’t eat a tikka masala! That’s a dish we’ve made our own. However, cook with our Sri Lankan curry kit and we like to think it’s exactly the same as you’d get if you were in Mirissa Beach, Sri Lanka, where Carl [Anderson – co-founder of Boom Kitchen] discovered the recipe.

For us, that’s what it’s all about. If you’re scratch cooking with the right ingredients there’s no reason a curry you make in your kitchen can’t taste like one cooked in India or Sri Lanka.

In your opinion, which country is the king of curries, and why?

For me, it’s Sri Lanka. They can do so many things with fruit and vegetables that will make your eyes water!

S T A R T E R S

Boom Kitchen founders Carl Anderson (left) and James Doel celebrate winning a Taste of the West award

How do you come up with the recipes?

Carl did a lot of travelling when he was younger, and made a habit of collecting his favourite recipes – many of them begged and bribed from restaurant owners, chefs and local guesthouses. He’s got an amazing folder full of them all written on till receipts, postcards, and torn out pages from the Lonely Planet.

What makes a Boom Kitchen curry unique?

Beyond our attention to detail when it comes to sourcing the best quality spices and ingredients from Indian and Sri Lanka, I think it’s our focus on the scratch cooking experience.

Which ingredients are key to a good curry?

The essentials, if you like, are a good spice mix made with fresh spices and whole spices, plenty of fresh ginger and garlic and some fresh coriander. A cold beer and some tunes when cooking will make all the difference!

How do you alter the heat of a curry?

Chilli! Fresh, dried or powdered, it doesn’t matter too much. Add a little to the pan, then taste, as it’s easy to make it hotter. If you overdo it, chuck in some coconut milk or natural yogurt. Basically, any product containing fat will dilute the capsaicin, which is the chemical in the chilli that makes it hot.

What about curry powder? We're never very sure about it. What, exactly, is it?

Curry powder is simply a mix of various ground spices. Asian families will have a curry powder recipe that’s handed down through generations. I was fortunate enough to be given a few different recipes when I was travelling; it’s what goes into our kits.

What do you think are the common mistakes people make when preparing a curry?

Using a Lloyd Grossman jar. Or using spices in your cupboard that have been knocking around for ages. They’ll have lost their taste.

What should we serve with our curry?

It comes down to personal preference, and depends on the type of curry. If it’s got plenty of sauce, then I like a chunk of naan bread to mop it up. I also like a cold beer, a good pickle selection or a vegetable side. Sri Lankan beetroot curry is one of my favourites, made with our Sri Lankan kit.

What should we drink with curry?

Whatever you like! We’re quite partial to a dry cider with our milder dishes, like Karma Korma and Tikka Tarka Masala – nothing too sweet, as the dishes are naturally quite sweet, so it’s nice to have that dry edge to cut through.

Aspall Cyder is a favourite. Then, with our spicier dishes, we like big, hoppy, Americanstyle IPAs. If you’re looking for pointers you can’t go wrong with 13 Guns from Crafty Dan, Neck Oil from Beavertown Brewery and Punk IPA from Brewdog.

Where did the idea for Boom Kitchen come from?

We just wanted to make it easy for people to scratch cook ‘authentic’ healthy curries at home.

When we first started in 2012, the supermarkets were full of gloopy jars of sauce that didn’t cut the mustard health-wise or in terms of flavour, with loads of added salt and sugar.

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Okay, so talk us through the way your kits are made.

You may regret asking this, but here goes…

We don’t make one kit at a time, and that’s because some of our kits utilise the same building blocks. (For example, our Karma Korma, Tikka Tarka and Sri Lankan all come with the same measure of coconut.) Across the range, we have 12 unique building blocks – a building block can have up to 10 different sub ingredients that we need to grade and prepare – so, to make our lives simpler, we subdivide our production into five distinct categories: spice mixes, dried chillies, whole spice combos, coconut and, finally, Boom Base (our all-natural base onion gravy stock).

Once we have a good stash of each building block, we focus on bringing them together to make the individual recipes. It’s not rocket science, but we closely monitor our stock levels.

Run out of a single ingredient and the whole machine can grind – or not grind! – to a halt. It’s a finely-tuned juggling act.

How big is the Boom Kitchen operation?

We currently have four staff and operate from the most picturesque industrial estate you can imagine, with sea views out towards the North Devon coastline near Ilfracombe.

And where do you sell your curry kits?

In independent farm shops, delis and online via our website. And hopefully soon in Ocado, too.

Finally, what’s next for Boom Kitchen?

In 2019, we’re continuing our expansion into new cuisines. Currently we have Indian and Sri Lankan kits, but later this year we’ll have a Moroccan tagine kit and a Spanish paella kit, too. You heard it here first! boomkitchen.co.uk

THERE IS MANY A NICHE HANKERING TO BE SATISFIED AMONGST THIS MONTH’S COLLECTION OF RECIPE BOOKS...

CHINESE TAKEAWAY COOKBOOK

PICKLE JUICE

Kwoklyn Wan (Quadrille, £15) Third generation chef, martial arts expert and brother of TV’s Gok Wan, Kwoklyn spent much of his childhood in the kitchen of his dad’s Cantonese restaurant in Leicester (his grandfather settled there in the 1960s, opening the city’s first Chinese eatery).

Now he’s doing for Chinese food what Dan Toombs (The Curry Guy) did for Indian, by sharing the culinary secrets of one of Britain’s most popular takeaways, so we can recreate our favourite Anglo-Asian dishes at home.

Starters like sweet Chinese barbecue ribs, crispy aromatic duck with pancakes and chicken noodle soup precede classic mains like sweet and sour chicken balls and crispy chilli beef, and sides like special fried rice and chow mein. There’s no need for fancy kit, and most ingredients are readily available – you probably already have some in. This is the stuff Friday night contentment is made of.

Florence Cherruault (Hardie Grant, £12.99) Cherruault runs Hackney-based The Pickle House, which creates pickle juices and Bloody Mary mixes for bars and restaurants.

She also turns out to be an engaging guide to the delights of these products, which might not sound too appealing but actually have huge health and flavour benefits.

Her world of picklebacks (vinegary shots drunk like tequila) and shrubs (sweeter versions, mixing fruit and sugar with the vinegar) is certainly intriguing, especially when you learn just what a rich umami depth of flavour pickle juice adds to all sorts of drinks. Florence shows how easy it is to make a good selection of basic pickle juices and shrubs, then explains the skill set needed to develop your own before offering up numerous recipes for Bloody Marys and other cocktails, both vodka-laden and virgin, and often very, very dirty indeed.

J E S S ICA CA RTE R

MATT BIELBY

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CHETNA’S HEALTHY INDIAN

Chetna Makan (Mitchell Beazley, £20) Don’t be fooled by the title; this is no diet book, and there are no calorie counts or nutritional stats amongst the pages. This is simply, explains Chetna, fresh, everyday Indian food that her mother would serve to the family each evening. It just happens to be full of the good stuff – and rather achievable too, with no super-expensive or unfamiliar ingredients. The wholesome, hearty, colourful dishes – think tomato and fenugreek curry with new potatoes, spicy chickpeas with sea bass, and masala roast chicken – are sure to spice up family mealtimes. There are plenty of curry, bread and rice recipes too, and some of the dishes have several different incarnations – the tadka dal, for instance, can be taken in three different directions. Thoughtfully chosen and beautifully presented, these meals might well become staples in your house.

JESSICA CARTER

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S T A R T E R S

HOW TO BE GLUTEN FREE AND KEEP YOUR FRIENDS

Recipes by Anna Barnett (Quadrille, £12.99) This slightly frustrating book, companion to a similarly named vegan title, boasts slick design and plenty of rather lovely and well-styled food photographs, but is slightly characterless nonetheless. Blame the combination of bare-bones recipes – no background or context is given to any dish – and occasional bursts of jaunty linking text produced by unnamed in-house staffers: it all gives the book a slightly impersonal feel. That said, there are no complaints about the wide-ranging dishes, which cover everything from green potato hash with fried eggs and Parmesan to roasted garlic, ricotta and asparagus tarts; sticky pineapple monkfish with pickled carrots to rose panna cotta with burnt orange. There are great tips on establishing and maintaining a glutenfree lifestyle too, from ingredients to be wary of to “keeping your love of the kitchen alive.” Handsome and useful, then, but ultimately more of a tool than a delight.

M AT T BIE L BY

NATIONAL TRUST COMFORT FOOD

By Clive Goudercourt and The National Trust Cafés (National Trust Books, £20) This newest release from The National Trust charity illustrates the fact that hearty comfort food isn’t just for winter.

Hankerings can just as easily arrive on a warm summer’s afternoon in the garden, the evening of a long and tiring day, or after getting caught off-guard in an April shower.

Whatever the occasion – or, indeed, time of year – this book may well contain a bit of what you fancy. We’ve already cooked up the favourite recipe of The National Trust’s development chef Clive Goudercourt – fragrant leek and sweet potato soup – and loved it so much we’ve added it to our winter soup rotation. We also have eyes on the game lasagne and, for the impending warmer seasons, goat’s cheese gnocchi with summer veg, Vietnamese chicken salad, and Powis Castle Café’s gin and tonic cake. Speaking of which, puds are a-plenty here; expect gingerbread treacle tart, rice pudding brulée and banana and cardamom bake, among others.

From Chinese Takeaway Cookbook, by Kwoklyn Wan (Quadrille, £15); photography by Sam Folan

OK BEEF SERVES 4

I HAVE MANY fond memories of this dish from my youth. One of my closest friends lived a few streets away from our restaurant and without fail he would order OK Beef and fried rice every night, which meant we always had time for a quick catch up. Although this recipe was developed in the UK for western tastebuds, it is enjoyed throughout the world and has become a firm favourite on the menu in many Cantonese restaurants. groundnut oil, for deep-frying 1 egg, beaten 340g beef fillet, thinly sliced 100g cornflour 1 onion, thinly sliced For the OK sauce: 2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp Chinese five spice 250ml water 125ml tomato ketchup 4 tbsp brown sauce 100g white or brown sugar 1½ tsp cornflour, mixed with 2 tbsp water

J E S S ICA CA RTE R

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1 Place all the sauce ingredients (except the cornflour mix) in a wok and heat gently, stirring until it starts to boil. Lower the heat and simmer for a few minutes. Pour in the cornflour mixture, stirring until thickened, then remove from the heat and set to one side.

2 Pour enough oil to deep-fry the beef into a large saucepan or wok and heat to 180C/350F. 3 In a large bowl, massage the egg into the beef slices. Tip the cornflour onto a large plate and coat the beef strips a few at a time, making sure each piece is covered and shaking off any excess.

4 Carefully lower the coated beef in batches into the hot oil and deep-fry for 2-3 minutes, or until the beef is golden brown and crispy. Transfer to a wire rack or a plate lined with kitchen paper.

5 Heat another ½ tbsp of the oil in a non-stick wok and fry the onion until tender, then add the fried beef and the sauce. Mix thoroughly to coat each piece, then transfer to a serving plate and serve.

CHEF!

WHAT TO MAKE AND HOW TO MAKE IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

Oysters get you frisky, they say, so Italian stallion Casanova started with 50 of the things each day…

HIGHLIGHTS

27 CRAB-TASTIC

ARANCINI WITH A TWIST FROM TITLEY GREEN

28 OH SHUCKS! UMAMI SHELLFISH FROM THE OYSTER SHACK

33 GONE WILD

VEGAN GOODNESS FROM RIVERFORD

PLUS!

5 WINE PAIRINGS

FROM CHRISOPHER PIPER WINES

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FeeLING sheepish?

LOOKING FOR A SHOWSTOPPER OF A MEAL THIS EASTER? LOOK NO FURTHER THAN THIS LAMB RECIPE FROM MICHAEL CAINES

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C H E F !

ROAST BEST END OF LOCAL LAMB, TOPPED WITH A HERB CRUMB, RATATOUILLE AND FONDANT POTATOES SERVES 4

For the herb crust: 250g dried breadcrumb 125g picked parsley 50g olive oil 12g garlic salt and pepper For the lamb: 1 best end (rack) of lamb with 8 rib bones, French trimmed olive oil knob of butter salt and pepper 2 tbsp Dijon mustard You know when you pay a visit to Lympstone Manor you’re in for a proper treat. Michael Caines’ country house hotel on the Exe Estuary is known for its gorgeous location, luxurious interior and top-notch service. Oh, and did we mention the food? That’s pretty exceptional, too.

So, we were lucky when Michael took the time to step out of the kitchen to share this delicious spring lamb recipe with us.

For the ratatouille: 1 courgette 1 aubergine 1 red pepper 1 yellow pepper 1 red onion 180ml olive oil 3 sprigs fresh thyme leaves salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 clove of garlic, crushed 100ml tomato sauce 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, chopped small basil leaves For the fondant potatoes: 2 large baking potatoes 50g butter 1 garlic clove, crushed sprig of thyme

WINE MATCH! Steve Edwards, operations director and wine expert at Lympstone, recommends you pair Michael’s lamb dish with a Montesecondo ‘Tin Amphora’ Red 2016. He says: “The wine has a very bright garnet red colour, lifted black cherry aromas with a hint of minerality, lovely freshness on the palate with soft stone fruit and bright acidity. It works perfectly with Michael’s wonderful roasted lamb, which sings with flavours of the Mediterranean in a finely diced ratatouille of red peppers, courgette and aubergine with a little basil, unctuous fondant potato and an intensely flavoured lamb jus.”

Herb crust 1 In a food processor, blend the breadcrumbs into a fine crumb. Blend in the parsley and garlic and then pour in the olive oil gradually.

2 Season and pass through a medium-sized drum sieve.

Lamb 1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.

2 Season the lamb joint with salt and pepper.

Put a little olive oil in a small, heavy roasting tin and put into the oven to heat.

3 Remove from the oven, add a little butter and place the lamb fat-side down in the tin.

4 Add the rosemary. Return to the oven and roast for 5 minutes. Turn the lamb over and roast for another 5 minutes, for medium rare.

For medium-well done, roast for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10-15 minutes.

5 Transfer to a clean tray, brush with some Dijon mustard and press into the herb crumb, covering the mustard with the crumb.

6 Place either under the grill to warm the

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crust through and reheat, or place in the oven for 10 minutes.

Ratatouille 1 Top and tail the courgettes, then cut them into quarters lengthways. Now, cut each quarter to your required shape (square or diamond). Cut the aubergine in half lengthways, then in half again. Cut each quarter in half, into the same size pieces as the courgettes.

2 Take the red and yellow peppers and cut them into quarters and remove the seeds. Cut them into even lengths and into pieces the same size as the courgettes and aubergines.

3 Peel the red onion and cut in half from top to bottom. Remove the root section, then cut each half into three wedges and, finally, cut these in half across their length.

4 Heat 30ml olive oil in a heavy-based pan.

Add the red onions, thyme leaves, salt and pepper and cook slowly until soft and drain through a colander to remove excess fat.

5 Meanwhile, in a non-stick pan, pan-fry each vegetable separately in 30ml olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper, until soft.

Leave them to drain in a colander (note: you can use one colander to drain your vegetables, just put them in sections). Let them cool before mixing them all together. Tip: If you are doing your prep in advance, you can refrigerate them at this stage to use later.

6 Heat 30ml olive oil in a large pan and add the crushed garlic. Cook for a minute, then add the tomato sauce and bring to the boil. Add all the cooked vegetables and the chopped basil and stir gently together whilst reheating.

7 Put the ratatouille into a serving bowl and garnish with some small basil leaves, or roughly chopped larger ones. Try adding some chopped black olives on top, too – they make a nice addition.

Fondant potatoes 1 Peel the potatoes and cut each one in half. Using a 40cm round cutter, cut out a cylinder from each half and block them off to an even height.

2 Set oven to 170C/325F/gas mark 3.

3 Melt the butter in a small thick-bottomed pan (preferably copper) and add the potatoes, garlic, thyme and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Colour the base of each potato cylinder well before turning them over.

4 Add a splash of water and cover the pan with a buttered paper. Place the pan in the oven and cook for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft in the middle.

To serve Carve the lamb into cutlets. Spoon the ratatouille onto the plate, top with a couple of lamb cutlets. Place the fondant potato onto the plate. Finish the dish with a spoonful of resting jus. lympstonemanor.co.uk

C H E F !

Neighbours, mates and business partners, Nick and Paula of catering outfit Titley Green share a passion for honest, uncomplicated food, packed with flavour. Nick has been a chef for over 25 years and also owns an award-winning deli, Vanilla Sky, in Budleigh Salterton. Having worked in senior management for most of her career, Paula took a leap of faith and launched events company Titley Green three years ago.

Together, Nick and Paula cater at weddings and events across Devon.

“This recipe is a ‘must-try’, made even better with fabulous local ingredients,” explains Paula. “Crunchy clusters of Lyme Bay crab, smoked Somerset Cheddar from River Exe Smokehouse and creamy arborio rice spiked with chilli, spring onion, garlic and lemon all encased in rustic crumb – what’s not to like?”

This super-easy starter or lunch dish can be prepped in advance and cooked just before serving.

‘CRABCINI’ WITH LEMON AND CORIANDER YOGHURT DRIZZLE SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN 1 banana shallot, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed ½ red chilli, seeded and finely chopped 200g arborio rice 25g butter 1 tbsp olive oil 100ml white wine 500ml hot vegetable stock juice and zest of ½ lemon 150g fresh crab meat 100g smoked Cheddar, grated 2 spring onions, finely chopped 25g plain flour 2 eggs, beaten 100g breadcrumbs 100ml natural yoghurt small bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped rapeseed or sunflower oil for frying

Oh, SO shellfish!

GET CREATIVE WITH CRAB WITH THIS BELTER OF A DISH FROM EAST DEVON CATERING COMPANY TITLEY GREEN 1 Sauté chopped shallot in butter and olive oil over a low heat for a few minutes until soft.

Add crushed garlic and chilli and cook for 1 minute.

2 Stir in rice and coat in the butter and oil.

Turn up the heat to medium and add the white wine and bubble for a few minutes.

3 Slowly add vegetable stock, a ladleful at a time, stirring as you go. Keep adding the stock until the rice is plump and the stock is virtually absorbed (approx. 20 minutes).

4 Stir in the lemon juice. Pour into a shallow tin and leave to cool completely.

5 Combine in a bowl the crab meat, grated smoked Cheddar and chopped spring onions.

6 Put flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs into three separate bowls.

7 Stir crab mixture into cooled rice and mix gently to combine. Roll into golf ball size rounds, then coat in a little flour, egg and finally breadcrumbs. Chill for 30 minutes.

8 For the yogurt dressing, mix finely chopped coriander and lemon zest with the yogurt until combined, then chill.

9 In a large frying pan, gently heat the oil until just beginning to sizzle. Add the crab

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croquettes and fry for around 8 minutes, turning regularly until golden brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper.

10 Serve alongside a bowl of the chilled yogurt dressing and a crunchy salad.

(Tip: we like chicory salad!) titleygreen.co.uk

WINE MATCH! Fiona Taylor from Christopher Piper Wines in Ottery St Mary recommends you pair Titley Green's dish with Gros Manseng Selection 2017 – Domaine des Cassagnoles, Cote de Gascogne, France (£9.15/75cl). She says: “This wine is crisp yet complex, overlaid with a gorgeous acacia/pink grapefruit bouquet. On the palate there are hints of greengage and grapefruit, with a touch of lime, and a superb long, rich finish.”

Tip!

TIP: If you’re left with some extra butter, great! It’s amazing with whole fish, in stir fries, or for cooking prawns, shellfish and more. (Doug’s personal favourite is on a crumpet with some brown shrimp.)

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C H E F !

‘SGT. PEPPER’ SEAWEED BUTTER UMAMI OYSTER SERVES 4 10g fresh dulse 10g fresh sea lettuce 125g unsalted Cornish butter 5g smoked Cornish Sea Salt 1 pot of Octopus’s Garden Umami Drops 4 oysters (minimum!)

ShaCKinG UP! SAVOUR THE FIFTH TASTE WITH THIS DECADENT SEAFOOD TREAT FROM DOUG GRIGG AT THE OYSTER SHACK

The Oyster Shack in Bigbury celebrates all that Devon’s seafood coast has to offer, and champions sustainability. This simple, yet extremely satisfying, recipe is the handiwork of sous chef Doug Grigg.

“I’ve been here at The Oyster Shack a while now,” Doug says, “and if I’ve learnt anything, it’s that oysters are everything to us. A mouthful of sweet brine and a taste of the ocean. We shuck tens of thousands every year, and we only use those that are sustainable and local – the foundation of our success. This recipe originated with a visit from a supplier, Octopus’s Garden, a sustainable seaweed company that produces a fantastic product called Umami Drops. We cooked an oyster in seaweed butter and mixed in some Umami Drops and the results were undeniably brilliant. Within a moment’s notice it was on the evening menu.

“The peppery notes of our local seaweeds, combined with the fresh burst of ocean from the oyster, along with the more-ish finish of the umami, accentuate the oyster flavour even more. The name, by the way, is a whimsical play on The Beatles’ song ‘Octopus’s Garden’, from the album Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band.”

Finally, a word to the wise: “Due to the nature of this recipe, you may not find all of the ingredients in your local supermarket, but if you pop down to The Oyster Shack, we’ll make sure we have everything you need to buy in our little deli. From the best local oysters, fresh seaweeds to Umami Drops. If you ask in advance, we’ll even make the butter for you!”

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1 Make sure your seaweed is thoroughly washed, then add to a small pan of boiling water for 1 minute before straining and cooling with cold water. Repeat twice.

2 The seaweed now should be vibrant in colour – green for the sea lettuce and reds for the dulse – but soft to the touch. Now, with a sharp knife, shred finely.

3 Combine your butter, seaweed and smoked salt together in a bowl, or a stand mixer if you have one. Then mix together, so the seaweed is evenly distributed throughout the butter.

4 On a stretch of greaseproof paper, shape your butter into a log shape, about the width of a two pence piece. Roll the parchment around the butter so it's in a cylinder shape. Chill in the fridge until it firms.

5 Preheat your oven or grill to 180C/350F/ gas mark 4.

6 Carefully shuck your oysters (check videos on YouTube if you haven’t done this before).

7 Slice your butter according to the number of oysters you wish to cook – about a coin’s width each would be ideal. Dress each oyster with a coin of butter.

8 Place the oysters and butter under the grill or in the oven until the oysters are over 70C, or semi-firm and piping hot to the touch. (Tip: using a cupcake tray is perfect to stop the oysters from falling over when cooking.)

9 Removes your oysters from the oven/grill and place on a bed of salt, to keep the shells in place. Add several droplets of umami essence to each oyster and enjoy. oystershack.co.uk

WINE MATCH! Fiona Taylor from Christopher Piper Wines in Ottery St Mary recommends you pair The Oyster Shack’s shellfish dish with Devon’s very own Shoreline 2017 from Lyme Bay Winery in Axminster (£14.40/75cl). She says: “This has an almost spritzy palate of good minerality and fresh, summertime character.” Working well with seafood, this wine has notes of lemon and grapefruit, with a dry, crisp saline finish.

C H E F !

Fresh frOm the farm

MAKING THE MOST OF THIS ISSUE’S HERO INGREDIENT – WILD GARLIC – IS THIS VEGGIE DISH FROM RIVERFORD FIELD KITCHEN. WE RECKON IT’S A DELIGHTFUL SPRING STARTER

Leeks were the first crop Guy Singh-Watson grew on a substantial scale when he started Riverford, and they remain an important staple for the farm. He says: “By April, the spring warmth has made the leeks bright and sweet. We’ve paired them with an old French farmhouse larder sauce, enhanced with one of the other joys of spring – wild garlic.”

LEEK WITH WILD GARLIC GRIBICHE SERVES 6 AS A STARTER For the leeks: 6 small leeks, cleaned (and with the tops and ends removed, leaving enough root to hold together) 4 bay leaves 10 whole black peppercorns 10 whole fennel seed 10 whole coriander seed 1 lemon zest 1ltr cold water 150ml dry white wine 10ml olive oil salt to season For the gribiche: 4 large eggs 30g dijon mustard 15ml lemon juice 15ml white wine vinegar 250ml rapeseed oil 100g small red onion, finely diced 100g pickled radish, thinly sliced 40g dill 40g parsley 20g mint 40g wild garlic 50g capers

Leeks 1 Preheat oven to 160C/325F/gas mark 3. Put the leeks in an oven dish with the bay leaves, spices and lemon zest, then pour the water and wine over the top. The leeks should be three quarters submerged.

2 Cover with a piece of greaseproof paper then poach the leeks in the oven until they are just done – you want a knife to easily pierce them, but for their colour to remain bright.

Save some of the liquid to dress the dish.

Gribiche 1 Drop the eggs into a pot of boiling water and cook for 7 minutes. Refresh in iced water.

2 Whisk the mustard, lemon juice and white wine vinegar together and add the rapeseed oil. Do this slowly to make sure it is emulsified into a thick vinaigrette.

3 Grate the egg (on the largest setting) into a bowl. Add the onion, radish, half the chopped herbs and wild garlic, and the capers. Stir through the vinaigrette.

To serve 1 Lay the leeks side by side in a large, deep dish, then spoon a little of the leek liquor and a drizzle of olive oil over. Spoon generous dollops of the gribiche on top.

2 Scatter the remaining wild garlic and herbs over the top, season and serve with bread to mop up the juices. fieldkitchen.riverford.co.uk

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WINE MATCH! Fiona Taylor from Christopher Piper Wines recommends you pair Riverford's leek dish with ‘Inspector Peringuey’ Chenin Blanc 2016, Jordan Estate, Stellenbosch, South Africa (£12.95/75cl). She says: “This has layers of rich tropical fruit and creamy citrus flavours, interlaced with a spicy, white peppercorn complexity from barrel fermentation, creating a wellbalanced wine with a natural fruit acidity.”

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C H E F !

CHOCOLATE BLOOD ORANGE BAVAROIS AND ST CLEMENTS SORBET SERVES 4 For the bavarois: 4 egg yolks 55g caster sugar 200ml whole milk 1 blood oranges zest 100g 70% chocolate, chopped 3 leaves gelatine, soaked in cold water 100ml double cream, whisked to soft peak For the sorbet: 100g caster sugar 100ml water 250ml juice, from 1 lemon and the rest from oranges 1 lemon, zest 2 oranges, zest

a wINNING COmBO

STUDENT CHEF SOPHIE KENNARD TEAMS UP A CLASSIC DUO, CHOCOLATE AND ORANGE, FOR A LUSCIOUS DESSERT Sophie Kennard first popped up on our radar last year when she scooped the coveted South West Student Chef of the Year Award.

Sophie, from Brompton Regus, studies professional cookery at Exeter College and works at an award-winning pub, The Swan at Bampton. She’s passionate about regional and local food, and dreams of owning her own restaurant one day.

This blood orange and chocolate dessert is just one of the many recipes she’s been busy perfecting. “Orange and chocolate are a classic combination,” she says. “Blood oranges are in season at the moment, and add lots of colour to the dish.”

WINE MATCH! Fiona Taylor from Christopher Piper wines in Ottery St Mary reckons you should pair this dessert with Sichel Sauternes 2016, Maison Sichel, Bordeaux (£13.20/37.5cl).

She says: “Here the Semillon and Sauvignon combine harmoniously to offer a highly expressive bouquet of citrus notes and lusciously ripe fruit with a hint of honey.”

Barvarois 1 Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar.

2 Bring the milk and zest up to the boil, turn down the heat and stir in the chocolate until incorporated, being careful not to burn it.

3 Pour the chocolate mix over the egg mix and whisk together.

4 Return the mixture to the hob and allow to thicken, stirring constantly.

5 Once thickened to a custard consistency, take it off the heat and stir in the gelatine and allow to cool.

6 Fold the chocolate custard into the whipped cream, place in the desired moulds or glasses and allow to set for at least four hours in the fridge.

Sorbet 1 Place all ingredients in a pan and bring up to the boil.

2 Once the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat.

3 Strain out the zest and allow to cool.

4 Churn in an ice cream machine until firm but still scoopable. Store in the freezer until ready to use.

Once you have made the barvarois and sorbet and they’ve set, plate up across four plates and decorate with blood orange segments and slices. theswan.co

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C H E F !

PAN SEARED RIB EYE STEAK WITH CRISPY SHALLOTS AND PORT JUS SERVES 2 300g diced celeriac 50ml cream 2x 10 oz rib eye steak 2 large potatoes 250gm butter (½ for pommes fondant, ¼ mixed with 1 clove of crushed garlic for garlic butter, ¼ for frying and basting steak) 2 garlic cloves, crushed 5 sprigs of rosemary 150ml chicken stock 2 banana shallots splash of milk 150ml port 150ml good quality beef stock handful of wild mushrooms cornflour salt and pepper 1 tbsp olive oil micro herbs, such as nasturtium (optional, to decorate)

STEAK NIGhT

CHEF TOM ALLBROOK FROM THE RISING SUN SHARES HIS SPIN ON A STEAK SUPPER The Rising Sun in Umberleigh has recently been refurbished and has a new chef in the form of Tom Allbrook, who used to head up the street food venture Hornbrook Kitchen.

Tom and his partner Ruth Horn, who works front of house, are putting their unique stamp on the venue, running regular ‘Eat the Street’ nights which includes a street food menu and live music.

“This recipe is from our spring menu,” explains Ruth. “The combination of flavours works well because you have the earthy notes of the celeriac and wild mushrooms, which complements the red meat. Then you have the sweet jus and shallots that make a perfect balance of flavours when combined.”

WINE MATCH! Fiona Taylor from Christopher Piper Wines recommends you enjoy this steak with a bottle of ‛Clavis Aurea’ Reserva 2015, Quinta do Casal Monteiro, Tejo, Portugal (£12.05/75cl). She says: “This wine is a brilliant deep garnet colour in appearance.

It presents aromatic hints of red ripe fruit jelly, black plums and cocoa, all well integrated with a French oak undertone.

On the palate it is powerful and velvety with an intense and persistent finish.”

1 Add the diced celeriac to the cream in a pan and simmer until tender (approx. 25 minutes).

Then blitz to make into a purée.

2 Sous vide steak for 45 minutes on 55 degrees (for medium rare). Or, pan fry the steaks to medium rare.

3 Peel and cut the potatoes into cubes and pan fry in butter, 1 clove of garlic and rosemary, in an oven-proof pan, until golden on one side. Turn over the potatoes and cook for a further 5-6 minutes, or until goldenbrown on both sides. Add the chicken stock to the pan and then simmer for around 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.

4 Peel the shallots and cut into rings and place in milk for around 10 minutes to soften.

5 To make the jus, reduce the port in a pan and add the beef stock, reduce further and add a knob of butter to give a glossy finish.

6 If you have sous vide the steaks, you need to remove when cooked and pan fry both sides to get a coloured and crisp finish.

7 Saute the mushrooms in garlic butter.

8 Place the shallot rings in cornflour, then fry lightly in hot oil.

9 Pan-char the shallot quarters until black.

To assemble 1 Put a few drops of celeriac purée on each plate and smear in different directions.

2 Cut each piece of steak in half down the middle and lay one half in the middle of each plate. Then, lay the other slice just off centre.

3 Dot the potatoes around the plates and put the shallots and mushrooms in place on top of each steak.

4 Finally, top with crispy onion rings. risingsunumberleigh.online

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SUNDAY ROAST SUNDAY ROAST SERVED 12–3PM | ALL YEAR ROUND COCKTAIL CLUB 2 FOR £10 ALL DAY SUNDAY & 5-7PM WEEKDAYS 30 HIGH STREET

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CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS The AnySharp Twist costs £14.99 and can be found at Lakeland in Exeter; anysharp.com

ShaRp’s PeRIL

MOST OF US FEEL A SMALL PANG OF FEAR WHEN SHARPENING KNIVES, SAYS MATT BIELBY. WHAT IF I SLIP? OR – NEARLY AS BAD – RUIN MY BEST BLADE? ENTER THE ANYSHARP TWIST… What’s that little thing? A letter rack? An incense stick holder?

No, silly – it’s a knife sharpener. But you’re right in saying it’s pretty tiny – not much bigger than a tomato, in fact. And because it’s even smaller than it looks in pictures, storing it’s a doddle.

And it works, does it?

Like a dream. If you’re used to sharpening your kitchen knives the traditional way – working the edge on a stone or steel, slowly grinding away tiny slivers of metal to reintroduce a proper edge – the AnySharp range will be a revelation. Unlike many knife-sharpening gadgets, they’re as

easy to use as they promise, with highly effective tungsten carbide sharpening tools at the optimum 20 degree angle tucked well away inside. Regular AnySharps are impressive pieces of kit, but the sleeker Twist is even better: for the first time it’s capable of effectively sharpening serrated edges too, like you’d get on a breadknife.

I suppose you’re going to say it’s quick, an’ all.

I totally am. Turns out all you need do is plonk the Twist down on a flat work surface, then turn till the sucker grips firmly.

Now lightly pull your knife blade through, perhaps repeating a couple of times.

Bingo, it’s sharpened. Couldn’t be easier, or – since your fingers are nowhere near the action – safer, either. (Just remember to wash your newly sharpened knives immediately afterwards – you don’t want to be eating any tiny metal filings, do you?)

Everything in my kitchen is copper coloured, but I’m betting this isn’t…

Slave to a trend, aren’t you? And also, as you rightly guessed, somewhat out of luck: the Twist only comes in red, black or cream. But since it’s so quick to use, cheap to buy, uber-safe and should last forever, maybe you could consider compromising…?

THIS MONTH TEA WITH TONKS • GOOD WOOD

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House Call

haRbOuR haven WE PAY A VISIT TO MITCH TONKS’ SEAFRONT HOME, AND FIND IT’S VERY MUCH A CELEBRATION OF FOOD AND FAMILY

WORDS: MELISSA STEWART PHOTOGRAPHS: GUY HARROP

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s soon as you step foot inside Mitch Tonks’ home in Brixham you are struck by a sense of warmth and family. This is no chic chef’s casa with bare, sleek stainless-steel worktops and designer chairs, but a proper, living, breathing family home. Situated on Brixham seafront, just a hop, skip and a jump away from the Fish Market and, handily, Rockfish Brixham, it embodies everything that personifies Mitch – the sea, food and family.

Mitch’s wife Penelope – or, as he affectionately calls her, Nellie – welcomes us with a cup of tea, while their two dogs, Olive (a French bulldog) and Charlie (a labrador) scramble around our feet. A log burner in the corner creates a warm, toasty vibe as we gaze out enviously at the stunning views across Brixham harbour.

Mitch, Nellie and their five kids have called Brixham home for the past 12 years, having moved from Bath with the growth of Mitch’s business. It makes perfect sense; Brixham is one of the busiest fishing ports in the UK, and it’s here that Mitch has built has reputation as one of the finest seafood chefs in the country – and a champion of the South West coastline’s bountiful catch.

“One of the great things about Brixham is the sense of community. I can walk around the harbour in the morning and, before I’ve got to Rockfish, I’ve said hello to 20 people,” he says.

“People who work in the fishing industry, older people in the community… they’re all really friendly. I take my dog out in the morning, go to the local pub on a Sunday, and everybody knows each other. It’s a nice place. The scenery around Brixham is also second to none. We’ve got Churston Cove and Fishcombe, where we go swimming in the sea and paddle boarding in the evening.”

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H O U S E

Mitch’s house is split across three levels, with the main hub of the home on the lower level, which houses an open plan kitchen and living space, with floor to ceiling glass doors, which open out to a gorgeous seating area overlooking the harbour.

“When we first moved here, this was a modern house with three separate rooms on the bottom level – a kitchen, living area and toilet. We ripped down all the walls and created one space. It makes complete sense, as it means we can all be together,” he says.

For Mitch and Nellie, the home is very much a place where they can bring their family and friends together to celebrate and entertain, with food very much at the heart of it all. As well as the main kitchen, the centrepiece of which is a solid wood dining table, there’s also an additional cooking space out the back, which Mitch affectionately calls his ‘family kitchen’. Originally a courtyard, it is now an extension of the main kitchen, adorned with vibrant Moroccan-style tiles, shelves filled with all matter of weird and wonderful ingredients, and Mitch’s pride and joy: an Ox grill.

“It’s where we prepare food and talk and get involved,” he says.

“I’ve spent a lot of time in Italy, and loved watching people cook over fire, and wanted to recreate that here.

“We had this courtyard, which didn’t get much sun and that we tried to grow vegetables in – but unsuccessfully – so we covered it over. We knocked the windows in, we knocked the doors in, and made it part of the main room.

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C A L L

“We can grill over an open fire, and I can go in there and get lost making bread or whatever, and develop new recipes. We have a carving board built into the main kitchen worktop, so we can take what we’ve cooked into the kitchen and carve it for the table.”

My eyes scan the shelves of various bottles, boxes and tins of oils, vinegars, spices and herbs that the Tonks family have accumulated on their travels, from a mammoth supply of Italian tomatoes and various tins of Ibizan herbs to an impressive roll of Japanese knives.

“I try to travel once a month. I recently came back from Japan, and I go to Italy next week,” he says. “I like to visit fish markets and restaurants and, even if it’s somewhere I’ve been before, I always pick up ideas and inspiration. It provides the building blocks of your business. When I come back, I share with the team the different cooking techniques and things I’ve learnt.”

Luckily for Mitch, his family also shares his enthusiasm for different types of cuisine. “We recently came back from a holiday in Thailand, and have been making lots of Thai dishes since,” he says.

“There are some really good Asian supermarkets around here, so we can get all the necessary stuff. We also like Mediterranean food, and eat fish three or four times a week. I like a bit of fish in the morning.

We’re early risers, and by 7am we’ll have eaten some fish from the market and maybe had a glass of brandy, and then it’s off to work.

We’re the luckiest guys in the world.”

Mitch’s house really does feel like a hub of creativity. While he's experimenting with different flavours and recipes, Nellie, who is an artist, is constantly curating their living space – from painting walls and putting up pictures to adding soft furnishings. Given the house’s proximity to the water, and the family’s love of the sea, there’s a nod to the nautical – found, for instance, in the natural wood surfaces and the bulkhead light fittings, but it doesn’t feel forced or cheesy.

Rather, the home is a reflection of the people who live in it; a real symbiosis of people and place. This is illustrated by the sheer volume of cookbooks to be found in the house. “I love reading about food. Sometimes, when I can’t sleep at night, I’ll end up browsing on Amazon and I can’t help but order more books,” smiles Mitch.

Indeed, the family office, which is situated directly above the main living space, has a whole wall dedicated to books. For any avid bookworm, this is the absolute dream. A favourite is Cooking by Hand by Paul Bertolli. It’s a collection of essays, musings and recipes, sumptuously written, where the author’s respect and love for his ingredients shines through.

Mitch points us to a letter Bertolli has written to his son about producing a balsamic vinegar for him to enjoy when he grows up; it is raw, moving and real. You can see why Mitch loves it. Indeed, he could almost have written it himself. It personifies his style of

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cooking – rather than pursue accolades, his ethos is about creating family-run restaurants, where recipes and ideas are handed down through the generations.

“Take The Seahorse, for example,” he says. “We set it up so that it will still be there in 100 years’ time. We’ve established a rhythm there and sense of family, a way of life, and of course in Europe that’s how it is in old-fashioned restaurants. We want to do the same at Rockfish, too. We want to build restaurants that have a point to them – that people love to work at and become institutions in the area. Not just something that you build a lot of and you find someone to buy them and sail off into the sunset. We invest a great deal in people.

“My son, Ben, is a great chef, and has recently returned from London to work at The Seahorse with our head chef, Jake Bridgwood, and my sister looks after the HR and has worked

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H O U S E

with me for a number of years. I love the idea that we have family members in the business. Mat [Prowse, Mitch’s business partner], his wife, daughter and son all work in the business too. It builds a real sense of trust and provenance.”

Mitch follows the Italian philosophy of gastronomy, where cooking and eating are ingrained in the fabric of family life. It’s long, it’s lasting and it’s pleasurable. It’s also about creating memories.

This is summed up at the end of our visit, when I spot some rather quirky lamps made from old red wine bottles. I comment on how clever an idea it is. Mitch nods, and says: “It’s something my kids like to do, they make lamps out of memorable bottles of wine.”

He goes on to tell us a story about his father, who sadly passed away last year. He’d been keen to dine at Hawksmoor, the London steak and seafood restaurant, where Mitch is a consultant. Too ill to travel, the chefs at the Hawksmoor made the trip to Brixham to Mitch’s home and made a meal for the family. They shared a bottle of Chateau Cantemerle and had a day filled with love, laughter and exquisite food. His father passed away the next day. The wine bottle is now one of the lamps. It’s a moving memory, but also a happy one. For the Tonks family, food, love and family are endlessly intertwined, and that shines through in their seafront Brixham home. mitchtonks.co.uk

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C A L L

K I T C H E N

A R M O U R Y

The Want List EMBRACE NATURE WITH OUR PICK OF WOODEN KITCHENWARE, ADDING AN ETHEREAL EDGE TO ANY TABLE…

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1 Ajura Wooden Server £9.95-£39.95 Hand carved from sustainable mango wood, this dish (available in a variety of sizes) works well as a rustic serving plate for a curated, artisan look. Ideal for sharing foods from mezze and antipasto to breads and cheeses. Available from Nkuku; nkuku.com 2 Salt Pinch Pot £10 Designer-maker Rosie Brewer handcrafts wooden kitchenware like chopping boards and coffee scoops from her home in the wilds of Devon. We really dig this handcarved salt pinch pot, available in a variety of wood finishes. Available from rosiebrewer.com 3 Spalted Beech Bowl £45 Shropshire-based woodturner Danielle Flowers has teamed up with the National Trust to create a stunning range of bowls made from spalted beech. Available from National Trust properties across Devon and online at shop.nationaltrust.org.uk 4 Long Hare Oak Serving Paddle £49.99 Check out this handcrafted, hare engraved serving paddle, made from sustainable Scottish oak. Perfect for presenting a range of foods including cold meats, breads and cheeses. It can also be used as a handy chopping board. Available at Otter Garden Centres; ottergardencentres.com 5 Sagaform Cheese Grater £19 We adore this sweet little grater with an oak drawer. A great present for a cheese lover, alongside a block of Parmigiano Reggiano; it even comes in a cute gift box. Available from The Salcombe Trading Company; salcombetrading.co.uk

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The Church House Inn is a family-run pub situated halfway between Exeter and Plymouth.

• Sunny beer garden • Family friendly • Dog friendly • Local produce • Separate dining room which can hold functions for up to 40 people

Rattery, South Brent, Devon TQ10 9LD Tel: 01364 642220 • www.thechurchhouseinn.co.uk

Guy Harrop Food Photographer

Fresh, Local and Seasonal Food. An every occasion restaurant

36 Admiralty Street, Plymouth, Devon PL1 3RU 01752 253247 • info@thefigtreeat36.co.uk www.thefigtreeat36.co.uk

MA INs TOP CULINARY CAUSES, INSIDER KNOWLEDGE AND FOOD PIONEERs

Chris and James Tanner opened their first Devon restaurant way back in… 1999!

HIGHLIGHTS

46 ON THE DART

PLACES WE LIKE TO EAT, DRINK AND HANG OUT IN DARTMOUTH

51 BROTHERS BEYOND

PLYMOUTH'S TANNER SIBLINGS CELEBRATE 20 YEARS IN DEVON

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daRt + dINe MELISSA STEWART MAKES LIKE A TOURIST AND SOAKS UP THE FOODIE HOTSPOTS IN HISTORIC DARTMOUTH

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M A I N S

Top row: The Seahorse; this row: The Angel; both rows: top tucker

w

hen you first drive down into the South Devon town of Dartmouth, the view catches your breath.

Sailing boats bob up and down, ferries pootle to and fro across the Dart estuary, a steam train can be spotted in the distance chugging along the Kingswear coastline, and brightly coloured houses hug the hillside. This is a proper pretty English coastal town. It’s got stacks of history, too, and was one of the places the Pilgrim Fathers stopped off at before they set sail across the Atlantic on the Mayflower.

As a tourist hotspot, particularly during the summer months, there may be a worry that the harbourfront will be awash with kissme-quick hats and chip shops but, thankfully, Dartmouth is an altogether more classy

location. It doesn’t quite have the Chelseaon-sea vibe of neighbouring Salcombe but, I’d argue, it’s got a bit more character. Oh, and the annual food festival in October is one of Devon’s best – catch it if you can.

FINE DINING

For foodies, Dartmouth has a range of eateries to suit most appetites and wallets.

The two jewels in the crown are practically next door to each other on the South Embankment: The Seahorse and The Angel. The Seahorse is Mitch Tonks and Mat Prowse’s upmarket seafood restaurant and was last year listed in The Sunday Times Top 100 UK Restaurants. Inside it’s like a charming old-world European bistro, with cosy banquette seating and low-level

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lighting. While away an afternoon or an evening indulging on dishes like squid with blood orange and mint, hake with Manzilla sherry and broad beans, or octopus braised in Vermentino wine with soft polenta, washed down with a bottle from the extensive and expertly curated wine list. For a pre-dinner tipple, be sure to pop into Joe’s Bar at the back of the restaurant, a cosy wine bar serving up a range of aperitifs, including their own homemade Joe’s Gin. For extraspecial occasions, you can also hire The Cantina – a private dining room where your guests can receive The Seahorse treatment in your own intimate surroundings. There’s a minimum spend of £800, which we reckon is totally worth it for up to 14 guests, your own private chef, and some of the best cooked seafood in Britain.

M A I N S

For more fine dining and fabulous estuary views, head to The Angel, where MasterChef: The Professionals alumni and rising star Elly Wentworth heads up the kitchen. Elly is building a name for herself as one of Devon’s best young chefs, and brings her creative flair and precision to the area’s best local produce. Sample main dishes include line-caught seabass, roasted cauliflower, hazelnut and chicken dressing, and best end of Dartmoor lamb with aubergine pickle, anchovy fritter, artichoke and lamb jus. Having dined there recently, I can heartily recommend the puds too, which were amongst the best I’ve ever had the pleasure to eat.

FAMILY FRIENDLY

If your budget can’t quite stretch to fine dining, but you still want to sample some of Devon’s delicious seafood, you can’t go wrong with a trip to Rockfish. Also located on the South Embankment, this is more than just a fish and chip restaurant: it serves up the day’s local catch from Brixham Fish Market, and the menu is updated regularly to reflect what’s in season. We recommend you be adventurous and try something you may not have had before, like gurnard, hake or John Dory, which can be grilled or fried to your preference.

If you’re staying in Dartmouth and fancy rustling up your own seafood supper, then head over to Old Market Square and have a chat with the lads at Wild Food Devon, a family-run fishmonger. They can recommend the fish of the day and what to do with it.

If seafood’s not your bag and you’re looking for family-friendly fodder at reasonable prices, then head to Kendricks.

Opened in 2000, it’s popular with Dartmouth locals and serves up Americanstyle food in hearty portions, every night of the week. The homemade Kendricks burgers served with slaw, gherkin and seasoned fries are an instant winner, as is the rack of pork ribs smothered in BBQ sauce. There’s a decent kids’ menu too, with staples like sausages, burgers and cod bites.

For a lazy family brunch, you’ve got to hit up Café Alfresco, which has become something of a Dartmouth institution.

Famed for its breakfasts, I recommend the Big Alf’s Breakfast, particularly if you’ve had a few the night before. It’s basically a full English, but the sausages and hog’s pudding are off the scale. Oh, and all other cafés take note: the toast comes is as it should always do, smothered in salty butter.

From top left: fresh crab from Rockfish; succulent burgers at Kendricks; and fresh hake, also from Kendricks

For a lighter option, go for the homemade granola and, for a vitamin hit, a smoothie.

I recommend the apple, pear and ginger, which apparently gives me two of my five-aday (although sadly, I don’t think it cancels out those cooked breakfast calories!).

HIDDEN GEMS

If you like a cosy pub atmosphere with an abundance of history – picture a Tudor frontage, exposed wood beams and a rustic interior – Bayard’s Cove Inn is a must visit.

Dating back to the 14th century, it’s situated at Bayard’s Cove, where those Mayflower pilgrims stopped off to repair their first ship, and is full of charm and character. The food is pretty tasty, too: think upmarket pub grub. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it makes for a handy pitstop before or after you’ve explored the town. It’s also a B&B, with seven ensuite rooms upstairs, making

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it an ideal location to stay if you’re spending a couple of days in town.

I spent the night there and enjoyed a delicious starter of butternut squash arancini served with tomato, caper and olive sauce, followed by a main of freshly caught skate wing, served with salsa verde and new potatoes. Both dishes were exceptional, and good value for money, too. In the morning, you can enjoy a meat, veggie or vegan fryup, a filled bap, or, like me, go for a plate of eggs Benedict, washed down with a cup of freshly-squeezed orange juice. This is a friendly, informal place, which books up fast in the summer.

Tucked away down a side street you’ll find Anzac Street Bistro, which serves up some of the best vegetarian food in town, as well as plenty to satisfy meat eaters. Tip: the veggie specials sell out quickly, so ring ahead and order in advance. Open Tuesday to Saturday evenings from 6pm, they

Clockwise: enjoy a cosy vibe at Bayards Cove Inn; stop for a cuppa at Bula; and dine al fresco with more crab at The Anchorstone Cafe

serve up European dishes with an exotic influence. It’s got a relaxed, cosy vibe and there’s live music at the weekends.

If you’re planning on a day trip, take the ferry up to Dittisham and pay a visit to The Anchorstone Cafe – a gem of a place that specialises in seafood. In the summer, nothing beats enjoying an al fresco feast of Start Bay crab and Elberry Cove mussels, washed down with a crisp cool glass of white from Sharpham’s, just three miles upriver.

THIRST QUENCHERS

Café Alfresco doles out a decent cup of coffee, which is their own home blend and roasted locally. Or, if you like to enjoy your caffeine in pretty surroundings, check out Bula, which serves up coffee with bagels and homemade cake. I fell in love with the cinema-style seating upholstered in tropical fabric. With free Wifi, it makes for a bright

and airy place to catch up on emails over a cuppa. The Deli at Dartmouth also does great coffee from Exe Coffee Roasters and is a smashing place to grab a quick lunch. You can also pick up a basketful of yummy local produce from the deli counter. Alternatively, if you’re a fan of The Curator Café in Totnes, head to its sister establishment, Woodroast, for a cracking coffee and some authentic Italian biscotti. Or, for a taste of France, head to Saveurs for a cappuccino and freshly baked pain au chocolat.

If you’re looking for an alcoholic tipple, Dartmouth has a raft of trad boozers too, with The Dolphin and The Cherub Inn two of our faves. The Cherub is actually one of the oldest buildings in town, dating back to the 1300s, and is a great place to chew the fat with locals. If you’re after a cocktail, then Bellini’s Bar is your best bet – although after all that food I could only manage the one before I tottered off to bed…

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QUICK! Now add this lot to your contact book… seahorserestaurant.co.uk theangeldartmouth.co.uk therockfish.co.uk wildfooddevon.com kendricksrestaurant.co.uk bayardscoveinn.co.uk anzacbistro.co.uk anchorstonecafe.co.uk cafealfresco.co.uk facebook.com/buladevon thedeliatdartmouth.co.uk italianfoodheroes.com saveurs.co.uk facebook.com/DolphinInnDartmouth facebook.com/cherubdartmouth facebook.com/bellinisbar

DAV I D GR IF F E N PH OTO GR A P HY

THE TANNER BROTHERS CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF RESTAURANT TRADE IN DEVON THIS YEAR, THE TANNER BROTHERS SHOW NO SIGNS OF SLOWING DOWN, AS MELISSA STEWART FINDS OUT

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DAV ID GRIFFE N P H OTO GRA P H Y

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inning Chris and James Tanner down for a chat is no easy feat. Like many chef-restauranteurs, they are seriously busy guys. It doesn’t help that their two businesses are 240 miles apart – Barbican Kitchen in Plymouth and The Kentish Hare in Tunbridge Wells – meaning they spend a considerable amount of time motoring down the A303. But, when we do finally manage to grab some time together, they are charm personified. Down to earth, hardworking chefs, they’ve become role models for the next generation. Yes, the fancy accolades and Michelin stars might have eluded them, but the Tanner brothers are stalwarts of the South West food scene – standing shoulder to shoulder with the likes of Simon Hulstone, Paul Ainsworth and Michael Caines.

I’m here to chat with them about their 20-year anniversary in the restaurant trade, which started with the opening of Tanners in Plymouth in 1999. Although born in Kent, the brothers have fond memories of holidaying in Devon as youngsters. “Our dad was fascinated with the region and took us on holiday to Salcombe and sailing on the River Dart – you could say our love affair with Devon first started more than 40 years ago,” says James. “When it came to opening a business and raising our own children, ‘Britain’s Ocean City’ seemed like an idyllic setting, with a perfect mixture of modern and country living.”

Having trained under the Roux brothers, Chris went on to run the kitchen at Kitley House, near Plymouth, which he took to three AA rosettes in 14 months. From there, he and James – who trained under Martin Blunos at the two Michelin-starred restaurant Lettonie in Bath – decided to take the leap and go into business together.

“The opportunity came up to take on Prysten House in the centre of Plymouth [a historic building dating back to the 1500s, and now the home of Ben Palmer’s Greedy Goose],” recalls Chris. “The bank thought we were a couple of kids and completely mad, so we sold everything we had, went to boot fairs and managed to raise about £40,000.”

“At the time, Plymouth only had a couple of really good restaurants, Chez Nous – a Michelin star place – and an Italian called Trattoria

Barbican Kitchen is housed in Plymouth Gin Distillery and takes full advantage of the West Country's larder, as showcased in the dishes above

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Pesactore that everybody went to,” recalls James. “We saw the opportunity and knew that, if we didn’t go for it, we’d always regret it. We’re both very driven, so decided to take the leap and open our first place, Tanners.”

The risk paid off and Tanners went on to become one of the city’s most successful eateries. Not only that, but the brothers’ fame rose in the early noughties with the opportunity to appear on the TV chef competition, Chef Stars. James, particularly, felt at ease in front of the cameras, going on to appear regularly on Ready Steady Cook and as a guest chef on ITV’s Lorraine and BBC’s Saturday Kitchen.

Then, in 2006, the opportunity came along to run the restaurant in the iconic Plymouth Gin Distillery. The brothers jumped at the chance to create a more casual, brasserie-style kitchen to operate alongside their more formal restaurant. “At the time, Barbican Kitchen was more simplistic than what Tanners was. It was open seven days a week and we didn’t do tasting menus. It was a different offering,” says James.

As the business grew, the brothers opened the gastropub, The Kentish Hare, in Tunbridge Wells in 2014, followed by a move into Cornwall, with a fish and chip restaurant, The Catch, and a farm shop, Quayside Fresh, in 2015. Then, after 15 years of trading, the decision was taken to close Tanners. They’ve also since pulled out of their business operations in Cornwall. “We

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realised that something had to give, so we made the tough decision to hand over the keys to Tanners. Fortunately, we were able to transfer the entire team across to the Barbican Kitchen,” says Chris. “I miss the site, but we realised we had to move on to new things. That’s what keeps us on our toes.”

As any restauranteur will tell you, running a number of establishments concurrently is a tricky business, full of ups and downs and economic pressures. Today, Chris and James are focused purely on Barbican Kitchen and The Kentish Hare, alongside regular consultancy work and pop-up events, including Royal Ascot, Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival and Tom Kerridge’s festival, Pub in the Park.

As with most good chefs, food is the beating heart of their business.

They’ve long been champions of South West produce and making the most of high-quality ingredients. “The key to it for us is not to have too many elements on the plate, and with good quality ingredients you can let it speak for itself. The art of simplicity can be really difficult to master,” says Chris.

“It’s about offering good food at a realistic price,” adds James. “We don’t do massively complex stuff. We don’t sous-vide everything, even if that is the current trend. We’ve always kept in touch with trends and had different influences but, at the end of the day, it’s just about good cookery and knowing what goes with what. I think we’ve got a solid reputation for being consistent.”

Recently the brothers have been revisiting some of their favourite recipes from their foodie archive and putting a modern spin on them. “Yesterday I was playing around with a clotted cream brioche

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recipe,” says Chris. “I came up with it 25 years ago, and I’m now experimenting with it and updating it for a new audience.”

For Chris, having the space to spend time in the kitchen, coming up with new menus and recipe ideas, is one of the luxuries of the job.

“I love the sauce section and the pastry. They’re my two favourites.

As I’ve got slightly older, I’ve spent more time on the pastry side of it.

You’ve got to be quite methodical and have proper recipes; you can’t just make things up as you go along. With something as simple as bread, for example, it’s all about the flour that you use.”

Away from their own endeavours, Chris and James commit their time to helping nurture the next generation of British chef talent, acting as patrons of City College, Plymouth, and Bromley College in London. They are also on the judging panel of the South West Chef of the Year competition. They feel it’s important to promote and support new talent coming into the industry, particularly as fewer and fewer school leavers see it as a viable career.

“There aren’t many young people becoming chefs. I can understand that, because it’s hard work. We’re from the old school, working 16-18 hours a day, and – I’m sure – if the national minimum wage had been around when we started I’d be a millionaire by now,” says Chris. “The industry is struggling. If we had one person leave in the past, we’d have a stack of CVs piled up for their replacement, but now all the restaurants are fighting for the same staff.

“Of course, things have changed for the better in some ways, and people do care more about striking a work/life balance. Some of the big-name guys, like Sat Bains, are on four-day weeks now. Barbican Kitchen used to be a seven-day-a-week operation, and I had 12

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BEETROOT AND PLYMOUTH GIN CURED GRAVADLAX SALMON WITH HORSERADISH CHANTILLY SERVES 4-6

or 13 cooks there on rosters. We then decided to close on a Sunday – to give the crew a day off to spend time with their families. We’ve also made sure we pay above minimum wage and look after our staff, and it’s paid off. Some of them have been with us for 15 years.”

The brothers cite Elly Wentworth, currently heading up The Angel in Dartmouth, as an example of a young chef who’s got what it takes to make it in the industry. “She trained with us and it’s great to see her doing so well,” says James. “We’re still close, and she’ll phone up if she needs a bit of advice. She’s very loyal and has a great personality. She’s very dedicated to what she does, which, sadly, is few and far between.”

Looking to the future, the Tanner brothers show no signs of slowing down. Currently they’re managing a changeover of chefs, as David Boswell – who heads up the team at the Barbican Kitchen – relocates to Kent to take over at The Kentish Hare. They’re also gearing up for a busy summer season of events, which sadly, leaves little time to mark their 20 years in Plymouth. “We’ve got so much on over the next few months we’ll be celebrating with a few days’ holiday, if we can get the time off,” laughs Chris.

If, and when, they do manage a day or two off, where might they choose to eat out? “There are loads of great places to try in the South West – The Castle at Taunton with Liam Finnegan, Hotel Endsleigh with Tom Ewings, to name just a couple… But it’s just finding the time,” says Chris.

Here’s hoping the next 20 years are as equally as successful for the brothers, but perhaps with a just a little bit more downtime… barbicankitchen.com

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“This is a fantastic, different way to try a classic cured salmon dish,” says Chris. “The gin gently perfumes the fish, but marries extremely well with the earthy beetroot flavours. And the horseradish finishes this dish off sublimely!”

250g raw beetroot 100g coarse sea salt 100g caster sugar 10g fennel seeds 25ml clear blossom honey 25ml Plymouth Gin 1kg salmon side (skin on) 100ml whipping cream 25g fresh grated horseradish cracked black pepper 50g fresh chopped dill 1 Wash and peel the beetroot (advisable to wear plastic gloves for this job!). Dry and cut into small pieces.

2 Blitz the beetroot in a food processor and mix with the salt, sugar, fennel seeds, honey and gin.

3 Pour the curing into a tray and place the salmon onto it with the skin facing towards you.

4 Cover with cling film, lightly press the fish and cure in the fridge for 36-48 hours.

5 Remove the fish, then brush off the excess cure and pat dry with paper towel.

6 Whip the cream until it holds its own volume, mix in the grated horseradish and season with cracked black pepper.

7 Place the salmon on a chopping board and slice thinly at an angle.

Arrange onto a plate and serve with the horseradish chantilly.

Garnish with a few rocket leaves and a fresh lemon.

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Seasonal me n us c re at e d w it h love a n d pass i o n

1 9 Fo r e St r eet , Ba m pt o n , Dev o n E X1 6 9 N D

0 1398 3 3 2 2 4 4 | f o o d@ g i n g e r p e anut.c o. uk

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We are an independent, friendly coffee and cake rooms passionate about quality local and fresh ingredients.

Full menu available with breakfasts, snacks and lunches Vegan menu, cakes and scones • Gluten free menu, cakes and scones • Cream teas and high teas Custom-made celebration, birthday and novelty cakes Regular vegan and gluten free workshops Dog friendly • Child friendly

GLUTEN FREE EASTER WORKSHOP £20, Wednesday 20th March A gluten fee workshop with the Free From Fairy.

See our website or Facebook page for details.

2 Bank Street, Teignmouth, TQ14 8AL www.perryliciouscoffeeandcakerooms.co.uk

A village pub celebrating food and drink

Tel: 01409 231888 info@blackriverinn.co.uk www.blackriverinn.co.uk Broad Street, Black Torrington, Devon, EX21 5PT

AFTERS

NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED AND WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

HIGHLIGHTS

58 JUST THE TONIC

A VISIT TO THE ANTIDOTE IN ILFRACOMBE

62 ON THE RIVER SUNDAY LUNCH AT THE LEAPING SALMON

Oozing poached eggs and avo toast were on the menu at Rust and the Wolf

64 WOLFING IT DOWN BRUNCH STOP AT RUST AND THE WOLF

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THE ANTIDOTE GOOD THINGS DO COME IN SMALL PACKAGES, AS MELISSA STEWART FINDS OUT WHEN SHE HEADS TO THE ANTIDOTE IN ILFRACOMBE

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hen artist Damien Hirst decided to close his Ilfracombe restaurant, The Quay, last October, it felt like the seaside town wasn’t just losing a tourist attraction, but also its foodie credentials.

Particularly when this was closely followed by the closure of Thomas Carr’s Seafood & Grill restaurant, which had only been open a few months. Thank goodness, then, for The Antidote, run by husband and wife team Paul and Sarah Becouran. The pair moved to Ilfracombe 15 years ago and ran the highly-successful La Gendarmerie on Fore Street before deciding to scale back operations and open The Antidote, which received a Bib Gourmand from Michelin last year.

It’s a cosy den of a place, with roughly 20 covers; the décor is minimalist but the low-level lighting gives it an intimate vibe, perfect for a date night (albeit not ideal for food photography!). The menu changes regularly, but the format is always the same: three courses for a reasonable £26. There are two starters, three mains and two desserts to pick between. Some may find this limiting, but I think it also suggests the quality you can expect from each dish.

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It’s also worth noting that, while they always have a veggie option, they don’t cater for vegans.

Paul recently posted on Facebook that they’d received some abuse for this stance, but explained that – as a small independent restaurant with only one chef – it’s not commercially viable to spend time prepping special vegan dishes for one or two customers. I’ve got to admire his honesty, particularly at a time when so many chefs feel pressure to cater for every dietary requirement.

Like the menu, the wine list is short and sweet, but has a variety of options, averaging at £26 per bottle. We opt for Paparuda, a Romanian Pinot Noir – a juicy, berry-filled red with a smooth, silky finish.

On the menu this evening, the starters are a mushroom velouté, sherry, Parmesan and truffle, or cured trout, dill, oyster mayo and apple. It’s a cold, rainy Devon evening, so I opt for a bowl of the warming velouté. It’s rich and velvety, with the truffle delightfully enhancing the earthiness of the mushrooms, rather than overpowering them. At first, I’m surprised there’s not a chunk of artisan sourdough to mop things up with but, by the end of it, I realise it doesn’t need any accompaniments. The dish stands up perfectly on its own and has me satiated in anticipation of my next course. It makes me think how quick we are to reckon we need something because it’s the norm – like salt with pepper, when sometimes you really only need the pepper. The other half goes for the trout, which is gorgeously presented like an abstract work of art with hot pinks and greens dancing off the plate. The slithers of tart, crisp apple give a welcome zing to the lightly-smoked fish and the briny creaminess of the oyster mayo.

For main, I’m recommended the chorizo ‘shepherd’s pie’ with rosemary and manchego, while across the table a sumptuoussounding twice-baked blue cheese soufflé is ordered. Shepherd’s pie, a bit like mac ’n’ cheese, really is the ultimate in comfort food, and this doesn’t disappoint. I’m thankful that the portion isn’t overly big, as it’s wonderfully rich, with the chorizo and manchego a natural pairing. Mercifully, the side salad helps to cut through the heaviness. I have to say, though, I’m slightly envious of the soufflé

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across from me, which melts on the fork and is perfectly balanced with a topping of cider leeks. The only criticism is that he wishes there was more of it.

The best is saved for last, with two glorious desserts: chocolate, salted caramel and orange and a baked apple tart. They’re classic combinations and simply executed, but absolutely exquisite to taste.

Close your eyes when eating the apple tart and you could swear you are sitting in a cosy tavern in France.

If pub grub is your bag and you like heavy portion sizes, then The Antidote isn’t the place for you. Its beauty is in its simplicity, a place designed for those who enjoy good food, appreciate quality ingredients and want to end the night with a contented stomach, rather than one that’s fit to burst. It’s heartening to see this type of food offering in Ilfracombe, amidst a sea of mediocre fish and chip restaurants, dated cafés and rough and ready pubs. With Thomas Carr’s The Olive Room retaining its Michelin star status this year, and The Antidote’s Bib Gourmand well deserved, perhaps things aren’t looking so bleak for Ilfracombe’s food scene after all? theantidoteilfracombe.co.uk

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PROPER PUBS

THE SWAN INN LAUREN HEATH HEADS DOWN THE EXE ESTUARY TO TRY OUT THE LATEST OFFERING FROM LYMPSTONE’S FOOD SCENE

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he estuary village of Lympstone, East Devon, although small, sees plenty of footfall thanks to being on the railway line, the water’s edge and the Exe Estuary Trail, enticing walkers, runners and cyclists alike into and through the village.

When a hungry tummy calls, you’ve got a few options to choose from, including The Globe Inn, which last year was taken over by the guys from The Pig & Pallet in Topsham. Or, for posher fare, you could head to Lympstone Manor. Now, though, there’s a new destination to add to your list: The Swan Inn. Recently taken over by the team behind the River Exe Cafe, a well-known seasonal floating café on the River Exe, The Swan Inn provides the team with some regular bricks and mortar – and customers a year-round offering.

The pub has a good amount of comfy seating, wooden tables, a great atmosphere and some proper old-school but charming tartan carpet. For those sunnier days, there’s seating out the front where you can park your bike or sit with your dog and enjoy a pint, the fresh air, and people watch.

The menu offering is robust and honest pub grub – no jus, foam or quenelles here. For starters, there are dishes like whitebait, terrine and a traditional prawn cocktail, and for mains: beer battered fish, bean cassoulet, duck breast, and the all-important staple that is the burger. There is also a specials menu, with the local catch of the

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day and all the suppliers named, with most items sourced from the nearby towns of Exmouth and Exeter.

Three of us dined on a Friday evening, with the boys opting to share the camembert: a balsamic-drizzled, oozing cheesy puddle with plenty of garlic bread slices to dip in. My mushroom and Yellow Hammer ale rarebit was equally unctuous and tangy on crusty bread. Mains of steak, mussels and game pie were up next; generous portions and all cooked well. The Greendale Farm steak melted in the mouth with a nice flavour from the grill. The pie dish was full to the brim with meat and topped with a large puff pastry lid. As I said, this is proper hearty pub grub.

Desserts were tasty and included a very chocolatey brownie with ice cream, and a light-as-air honeycomb cheesecake. We rolled out the door at the end of the night with very full bellies.

If you’re after a gastropub with restaurant-style food, then The Swan Inn is probably not going to be your venue of choice. But if you’re after great pub grub, a full plate for your British pound, and all made with local ingredients to boot, then The Swan Inn at Lympstone is it. And if you take advantage of the many nonpowered ways to get there, you certainly will have earnt a good feed – although you may also need a good nap after… theswaninn-lympstone.co.uk

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COOL PUBS

THE LEAPING SALMON MELISSA STEWART VENTURES TO DARTMOOR AND LUNCHES AT THE LEAPING SALMON – A REFRESHINGLY DIFFERENT VILLAGE PUB

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ith so many traditional country pubs closing and so many millennials and gen Z-ers ditching the booze in favour of more wholesome lifestyles, it takes some confidence to save an old pub in a quiet Dartmoor village from the clutches of the Co-op. But that’s exactly what 20-something school chums Fred Andrews and Max Phillips have done, reopening the pub The Leaping Salmon with Fred’s dad, Chris, and offering something a bit different from your usual pub experience. Max heads up the kitchen, while Fred mans front of house.

From the outside, The Leaping Salmon looks like your typical village pub and inside it retains its period character, with exposed brick walls and a gorgeous vast stone fireplace, complete with wood burning stove. But the venue is given a contemporary edge with orange and petrol blue paintwork and minimalist furniture. And, behind the bar and in the kitchen is a hip young team, looking to make their mark.

The Leaping Salmon doubles up as a pub and a café, the café being open in the summer months and attracting those looking for breakfast, lunch or a coffee and a slice of homemade cake. We visit on a balmy Sunday afternoon in February (yup, never thought I’d say those words), with the beer garden out back full of punters having lunch and watching the activity in the allotment garden above, where the team are busy planting veg for the coming year.

We take a seat inside, admiring the collection of quirky Toby jugs on the bar and in the windows, and scan the day’s menu, written

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on a chalkboard. This isn’t a pub with a huge range of options; they stick to a few dishes per day, depending on the fresh produce available. Everything is cooked fresh to order; there’s no frozen chips or lasagnes here. Two courses are £19, or three for £22. On Sundays, they stick to the tried and tested pub roast formula – lamb, pork or cauliflower – with an additional special of mussels and chips. For starters, there’s a choice of smoked mackerel pâté, Jerusalem artichoke soup or pork terrine and pickles.

I go for the mackerel, while my tablemate goes for the terrine. The mackerel pâté is presented atop a hunk of homemade sourdough.

Pickled rhubarb adds an acidic punch to the creamy fish, while peppery horseradish gives a lasting bite. Pork terrine is a British countryside staple, and this one doesn’t disappoint; lusciously meaty and paired with tangy pickles, it certainly packs in the flavour.

As it’s such a sunny day, I forego the usual Sunday roast for Exmoor mussels and chips. Contrary to popular belief, British mussels are actually in season during the colder winter months, rather than during the summer, and these from the Devon coastline are plump, juicy and full of flavour. The chips are worth a mention too, perfectly crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside and scrummy dunked into the pub’s homemade tomato ketchup. Across the table, my dining partner goes for a lamb roast and all the trimmings. The meat is succulent and tender and infused with mint, served alongside carrot, kale, potato, red cabbage and tenderstem broccoli. It’s a classy and contemporary take on the traditional pub roast.

Attempts to be ‘good’ are thrown out the window, as we both go for dessert. Me: a sticky toffee pud, and he: a chocolate tart – both British pub staples. As with the rest of the day’s food, there’s a wonderful homemade quality to the final course. The sticky toffee pud is as it should be: light and fluffy sponge smothered in a rich, sweet toffee sauce, while the chocolate torte is rich but not too heavy, topped with clotted cream.

The Leaping Salmon is onto a good thing. It’s a traditional pub, appealing to locals looking for a few drinks in relaxed, unpretentious

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surroundings, while at the same time serving up top-notch freshly cooked food that’s a step above your normal pub fodder. The addition of the café is a bonus, appealing to walkers and cyclists passing through Horrabridge on their way to explore Dartmoor.

Plus, there are three double rooms to rent upstairs, should you wish to rest your head for the night. It’s great to see two young-ish local lads having a go at a notoriously tricky trade and putting their own refreshing spin on it. We wish them all the very best. theleapingsalmon.co.uk

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ying south east of Dartmoor, the town of Ashburton is well known for its fine cookery school plus the usual delis, homeware stores and cafés you’d expect in any great Devon town. But, just off the main street, is a taste of Dartmoor with a twist.

Rust and the Wolf is an independently owned lifestyle shop and café – on one hand, it sells vintage clothing, upcycled furniture, Mexican rugs and quirky homeware, and, on the other, you can pop in for a coffee, cake, brunch, lunch, dinner and even cocktails. In a world where millennials are opting for multi-hypenate careers, it seems fitting to have a retail space with multiple offerings.

The stone walls of the interior are lit warmly with neon lights and the space is lined with big leather sofas and repurposed coffee tables, which lure you into the heart of the shop where there’s an open kitchen and bar area. Take a seat at one of the high-back bar stools while you await a cocktail, a flat white or whatever else takes your fancy whilst you nosey in on the chefs at work.

At the back of the shop, in what once was a vehicle spray shop, is now a hip, industrial-feel café. Minimalist in style, the stone floors,

QUIRKY CAFES

RUST AND THE WOLF LAUREN HEATH SOAKS UP CALIFORNIAN LIFESTYLE VIBES AND ENJOYS A TASTE OF MEXICO AT A VERY HIP NEW CAFE IN ASHBURTON

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brick walls, upcycled mismatched tables and chairs are warmed with a décor of succulent plants, cushions, and vintage wall art.

As brunch is served right up to 3pm, we choose half brunch, half lunch. Most of the ingredients, some of which are organic, are sourced from within Ashburton. The menu vibe is Southern California with a Mexican touch, and brunch items include muffins, eggs and pancakes.

We dived into the well-stacked smashed avocado and perfectly poached egg on multigrain toast, and Chilaquiles eggs, tortillas, salsa roja sauce. The latter was scrambled eggs, with coriander, chilli, and crumbled feta all atop really high-quality tortilla chips. It was creamy, fresh and crunchy with the salt hit of the feta – having been to Mexico myself, I can say that this was a great nod to the cuisine.

Lunch specials of Dartmoor-bred beef burger in a brioche bun with chipotle slaw and skinny fries, and the So-Cal-style fish tacos with slaw, salsa and chipotle crema sauce were devoured.

Plenty of textures, freshness and decent portions were on offer, pepped up with good coffee and a zingy margarita – what more could you want?

Four months into its life in Ashburton, and with a team of chefs from different cultural backgrounds, this place is developing plans for a little more experimentation with the menu, though some core items will remain the same.

Rust and the Wolf hit the spot with us, and is in a really cool setting that’s unlike anything we’ve visited around Devon. We’ll be back – and might even leave with more than a full tummy, thanks to all the quirky and enticing items for sale in the lifestyle shop. rustandthewolf.co.uk

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BEST BREKKIE? Bumble and Bee in Exmouth, a lovely family-run tea room offering sensational cooked breakfasts using local produce.

Their ‘posh scramble’ is a firm favourite.

BEST BREW? Rectory Tea Rooms in Morwenstow; not only do they do a fantastic brew, they also have the most incredible cream teas. Make the most of the journey there and go on the Hawker’s Hut National Trust walk.

FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? Eversfield Organic’s Tavistock farm shop and deli, of course! If I was to choose one other, it would be the Real Food Store, as they also stock our Roam & Relish dry cured organic ham.

BEST WINE MERCHANT? Jaded Palates in Ashburton. The owner, Ian, has spent much of his life educating himself in what makes the difference between an average wine and an exceptional one. Every bottle is handpicked for you to enjoy.

SUNDAY LUNCH? Castle Inn, Lydford, is a beautiful quintessential Devon inn using fresh local produce. Make sure you look up at the ceiling in the bar – there’s loads of character in this adorable pink Devon pub.

QUICK PINT? The Cornish Arms, Tavistock, is a very relaxed pub with a wide selection of local brews and gins. The food is exceptional, with the braised ox cheek a firm favourite.

L I T T L E

B L A C K

B O O K

POSH NOSH? The Horn of Plenty in Tavistock. I recently had my surprise 30th birthday meal here. I was very impressed with the attention to detail and the beautiful setting.

ANNA ELLIOT

FOOD ON THE GO? A Clive’s pie, handmade in Devon and famous for their gluten-free, wholemeal and vegan range. We stock them in our Tavistock farm shop and deli.

AL FRESCO FEASTING? Coombe Trenchard’s Feast & Fire Supper Club.

It’s an ‘Asado’-style supper cooked by Dave Mantle and his team from Thirst Choice with Garnish.

EVERSFIELD ORGANIC’S SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR, ANNA ELLIOT, SHARES HER SOUTH WEST FOODIE FAVES…

ONE TO WATCH? Noel Corston in Woolacombe. His menu reflects the best produce the immediate environment has to offer. Wherever possible, he only works with ingredients that runs, grows or swims inside the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in North Devon.

WITH FRIENDS? The Old Firehouse in Exeter always has a fantastic atmosphere. I also love cider! It has a vast range of ciders from the South West and, paired with one of their pizzas, you will not be disappointed.

Quick! Now add this little lot to your contacts book...

Bumble and Bee, Exmouth EX8 1BB; bumbleandbee.co.uk Rectory Farm, Morwenstow, Nr Bude, Cornwall EX23 9SR; rectory-tearooms.co.uk Eversfield Organic Farm Shop and Deli, Tavistock PL19 8AD; eversfieldorganic.co.uk Real Food Store, Exeter EX4 3SB; realfoodexeter.co.uk Jaded Palates, Ashburton TQ13 7QD; jadedpalates.com Castle Inn, Lydford EX20 4BH; castleinnlydford.co.uk The Cornish Arms, Tavistock PL19 8AN; thecornisharmstavistock.co.uk The Horn of Plenty, Tavistock PL19 8JD; thehornofplenty.co.uk Clive’s, Buckfastleigh TQ11 0NR; clivespies.com Coombe Trenchard, Lewtrenchard, Nr Okehampton EX20 4PW; coombetrenchard.co.uk Noel Corston, Woolacombe EX34 7BB; noelcorston.com Old Firehouse, Exeter EX4 4EP; oldfirehouseexeter.co.uk The Pig & Pallet, Topsham EX3 0JB; pigandpallet.co.uk The Leaping Salmon, Horrabridge PL20 7TN; theleapingsalmon.co.uk Ma’ida, Okehampton EX20 1HB; maidaoke.co.uk Exploding Bakery, Exeter EX4 3SB; explodingbakery.com Kuku, Plymouth PL1 2EU; kukuplymouth.co.uk

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COMFORT FOOD? The Pig & Pallet has a relaxed and informal dining space, perfect with friends and family. They take their influences from America and Europe to create delicious lip-smacking recipes.

WITH THE FAMILY? I always love going to The Leaping Salmon.

They stock a large range of beers, ciders and soft drinks from small independent producers across Devon and Cornwall. The food is very special, so don’t go expecting your average pub grub.

BEST CURRY? Ma'ida in Okehampton. The produce is very fresh, and they deliver authentic Indian cuisine of the highest standard. As a familyrun business ourselves, I always support small independents.

SOMETHING SWEET? Exploding Bakery – I love this place! My favourite is their lemon, polenta and pistachio slice. Owners Tom and Oli use the finest local produce and are great supporters of using organic ingredients.

PRE-THEATRE FEED? Kuku, Plymouth. I had a fantastic experience here before and after a show. We had a sharing menu and didn’t finish it, so they said we could come back and finish it afterwards. We arrived to a re-laid table and started again. Five-star customer service! eversfieldorganic.co.uk

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