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CRUMBS Cotswolds NO.51 FEBRUARY 2017

HAPP!Y TIMES

MINDFUL COOKING

WHY ONE WOMAN THINKS WILL MAKE YOUR

FOOD TASTE BETTER

A little slice of foodie heaven the What’s e of opposite? Sneezy! coffe

NO.51 FEB RUA RY 2017

HUNGRY HEART S

LOrd lOve a tuCK!

heavenLy recipes

WHERE TO EAT THIS

VALENTINE’S DAY

frOm thE regioN’s BESt cOOks

SM A G. C O M

LittLe fishy, hy meet dlis seafOOd

SensatiOna with the Guys behind

U MB

Purslane

wake up! and smeLL the

£3 WHERE SOLD

BeaN STreeTS

PLus

BOttLe Of Sauce

BLue BOar

CR

e e f f O C And a new use fOr BaiLeys!

Why we adOre the daiLy Grind


APPLE

ANDROID

Crumbs is now an app! You can read all editions of Crumbs – Bath+Bristol, Cotswolds and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Scan the QR codes above, search ‘Crumbs’ or go to crumbsmag.com

THE KINGS OF BEANS YEP, THIS ISSUE IS FULL OF BEANS. And yes, of course those beans are coffee beans. Throughout the following pages we take a closer-than-usual look at the much talked about, much argued-over delight that is coffee – and yes, it turns out it does offer rather more than just a pleasing way to klck-start the morning. I’d say ‘Who knew?’ except the answer is, of course, rather a lot of us. At least, if the 55 million cups that fans claim we Brits slurp each day is anything to go by. Did you know, for instance, that a substantial 16 percent of us go to a coffee shop every single day? Numbers like that border on the obsessional, and it’s certainly true that the coffee scene in the Cotswolds is buzzing right now. From roasters to baristas, there’s no shortage of peeps who really know their stuff, and happily for us they’re only too keen to share their wisdom. Turn to pages 8, 14 and – especially – 48 for more. And if you’re not a huge coffee fan, these guys tend to reckon that’s probably just because you haven’t found the right brew for you yet. After reading what they have to say, you may even find yourself agreeing. Of course, coffee doesn’t have to be a drink; it can be a great ingredient, too. Check out the recipe on page 10, and this week’s Larder on page 16, and get your thinking cap on. And hey, perhaps grab a nice cup o’ Joe as you do so…?

Emma Dance Editor emma.dance@mediaclash.co.uk

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Table of Contents

NO.51 FEBRUARY 2017

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EDITOR

EMMA DANCE emma.dance@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM DESIGN

VICKY MITCHARD ADVERTISING MANAGER

DANIELLE MORRIS danielle.morris@mediaclash.co.uk SALES EXECUTIVE

RYAN GOODMAN ryan.goodman@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

CHRISTINA WEST christina.west@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk

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MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800 www.mediaclash.co.uk

STARTERS 8 HERO INGREDIENT There’s more to coffee than you know!

ADDITIONAL RECIPES

12 OPENINGS ETC It’s all going on this month...

42 Cornish Hake, heritage potatoes, St Austell mussels and seashore greens, by Gareth Fulford

20 FOOD DIARY TV’s Adam Henson tells us what he’s been chomping 22 TRIO Juice almighty! We meet three top juice producers

KITCHEN ARMOURY 38 CRUMBS COOKS WITH The Fulfords of Purslane ask us around for lunch

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© All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month (and in the spirit of the issue) we’ve been fueled by caffeine. Thank regular filter coffee, obv, but also coffee-laced cakes, lattes galore and a rather fine espresso martini or two…

CHEF!

Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens

44 THE WANT LIST Time to get loved up!

28 Navina Bartlett shares her recipe for salt marsh lamb kofte with aubergine raitha

MAINS 48 CAFFEINE FIX We get the lowdown on the Cotswolds coffee scene

30 Crab sausage roll, brown crab mayo and lemon, by The Gumstool

54 THE FOOD OF LOVE Where to dine this V-Day

32 Lee Mayo makes a mean chocolate and Baileys mousse

56 PUT YOUR MIND TO IT Jules Taylor finds out how mindfulness could benefit your cooking

34 Chargrilled steak with salsa verde, thanks to Katriona MacGregor

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AFTERS

New & notable restaurants, cafés, bars 60 Dewsall Court 62 The Bottle of Sauce 64 The Blue Boar PLUS

66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Ryan Kelly of Thistledown Farm shares his fave eats


DE VERE COTSWOLD WATER PARK | LAKE 6 | SPINE ROAD EAST SOUTH CERNEY | GLOUCESTERSHIRE | GL7 5FP

WWW.PHCOMPANY.COM/DE-VERE/COTSWOLD-WATER-PARK-HOTEL


INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

LEARN FROM THE MASTERCHEF WANNA LEARN TO COOK like a professional? Or well enough, at least, to wow your party guests with some kitchen wizadry? Yeah? Well then, pop on down to the brand spanking new MasterChef Academy at Eckington Manor. The hotel has just launched this new cookery school series, offering an exceptional chance to learn how to cook like a ‘master chef’ under the guidance of the hotel’s renowned head chef, and MasterChef: The Professionals 2015 winner, Mark Stinchcombe. Owner and founder of Eckington Manor, Judy Gardner, says: “This is an inspiring place for learning, and our cookery school is the ideal environment to develop your skills. We couldn’t be more proud of the success Mark has had, and our all-new academy provides the perfect opportunity for junior chefs and foodies alike to learn just how to recreate those works of art in their own kitchens, thanks to easy-to-follow tips and tricks of the trade. And we’re so keen to support emerging talent that we’re offering a discount to those already in the industry.” The half-day courses are hosted throughout the year in Eckington Manor’s state-of-the-art cookery school, and will be led by Mark, together with his wife – and fellow head chef – Sue Stinchcombe. The culinary couple will demonstrate a selection of top kitchen talents, including preparation, knife skills, presentation and how to cook specific dishes featured during Mark’s stint on TV. And, beyond that, students will also learn to prepare a selection of experimental dishes – ‘buttermilk snow’, anyone? The half-day course will include a lunch actually prepared during the session, allowing attendees to sample their own handiwork. ✱ The next MasterChef Academy session takes place on 6 April, and runs 10am-2pm. Places are £175 per person, or £150 per person for those working in the hospitality industry. For more info, visit eckingtonmanor.co.uk

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S T A R T E R S

Coffee The world’s obsessed with the bean, and we’re no different. There are so many great places for a decent cup of java these days, you can hardly see the scraps of haystack for the giant pile of needles...

THERE ARE PLENTY of foodstuffs we write about in Crumbs that people get worked up about – barbecue is one; bread another – but nothing rivals coffee for engendering a relentless obsession that can verge, not infrequently, on snobbery. It’s quite something, and the backlash against it is considerable too – and confusing. Some snub the high street coffee chains, for their prices and murky tax arrangements. Others, though, laugh at those uber-cool indie coffee shops where they roast their own beans, and make tiny cuppas on massive, gurgling machines.

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Wherever you stand, good coffee is indisputably more plentiful than it was in our parents’ day. We’re in a coffee golden age, and it’s little wonder some of us are getting a tad carried away with it all. (Us, we’re blaming the caffeine...) Human history with this stuff is certainly extensive. There’s an ancient story – probably fiction – that sees a 9th-century Ethiopian goatherd so impressed with how excited his charges got after eating coffee plant beans, he tried them for himself. However it really happened, though, coffee drinking eventually spread through the Middle East and Northern Africa, and by 1645 there were coffee houses in Rome, too – though there was a stumbling block here, until this so-called ‘Muslim drink’ was deemed suitable for Christians, too, by a thirsty Pope Clement VIII.

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From there on in, there was no stopping coffee. The Dutch and British East India Companies started importing it in bulk, and by 1660 famed English diarist Samuel Pepys was visiting Jamaica Wine House in the City of London, the UK’s first coffee house. Soon coffee was worldwide: Haiti in the Caribbean was producing half the world’s beans by 1788, but this collapsed following their revolution; then Brazil came from nowhere to become the world’s largest producer, clearing massive tracts of rainforest to do so. These days it’s come full circle, and the economies of African nations from Uganda to, yes, Ethiopia have started to lean on the bean. It’s not always been a pretty picture, the rise of coffee – it’s too often spiralled around a cycle of displacement, exploitation, and coups – but its importance to emerging economies is undeniable. The coffee we drink comes from several species of the same shrub: coffea, a self-pollinating evergreen that grows maybe 15 feet tall, and whose cultivation is often a relentless war against the 900 species of insects that attack it. (Warbler birds have become the unlikely heroes here, as they love to chow down on the coffee borer beetle, the most pesky varmint of all.)

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To make the coffee beans we know takes several processes: the berries are picked, the seeds fermented and dried, and the resulting ‘green coffee’ then roasted – how this is done having a huge effect on body and flavour. And then, of course, there’s the final bit: brewing to make the drink itself. This demands these roasted beans be ground, then mixed with hot water for long enough for flavour to emerge, but not so long that it becomes bitter. Quite a faff, then – but all this arcane palaver is possibly one reason why coffee has gained such hipster traction in recent years. Tea is a complete and utter doddle in comparison. Though there are countless ways to serve coffee, a handful currently dominate. There’s espresso, a strong, potent, highlyroasted brew made by forcing steam through finely ground coffee at high pressure, then served in tiny cups. There’s cappuccino, in which frothy steamed milk is added to espresso to make a milky drink, covered in powdered chocolate – some hardcore caffeine heads snarl at the daylong drinking of it, as it’s a breakfast-only beverage in Italy. There’s the latte (mix espresso and hot milk); the Americano (an

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espresso thinned with hot water); the mocha (one-third espresso, one-third hot chocolate and one-third steamed milk); and so it marches on. You can cook with coffee too, of course. Desserts are the obvious thing – there’s a range of delicious coffee cakes, some of the best teaming it with walnut or chocolate – and coffee appears in cocktails (Irish coffee, most famously) too. There’s even the occasional savoury use for it, from coffee roasted vegetables to the rather delicious sounding coffee baked beans. Seems that if you’re not down with coffee you’re nobody these days, and most of our pop culture heroes – from 007 to the cast of Friends – have noted coffee addictions, an affliction that extended in real-life to everyone from TS Eliot to Johan Sebastian Bach, too. Shakespeare, sadly, never got to taste a drop – he was 50 years before its time – but somehow managed some 38 plays and 154 sonnets anyway. Who knows? If coffee had been around circa 1600, he might have been more prolific yet...


R E C I P E

This coffee-laced cheesecake comes from Marcus Quint at Lynwood & Co, and would make a decadent mid-morning treat, a lush dessert or a fab afternoon pick-me-up

eSPReSSO CheeSeCaKe WITh COFFee BeaN BRITTLE (SERVES 8-10)

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

For the base 200g amaretti biscuit 75g unsalted butter

– Preheat the oven to 160C/320F/gas mark 3. – Take the cream cheese out of the fridge to bring up to room temperature. – Blitz the biscuits to a fine crumb. – Melt the butter and combine with the biscuit. – Butter a 20cm loose bottom cake tin and place the biscuit mix in the bottom, spreading it to create a thin, even base. – Place in the fridge for 30 minutes to harden. – Place the cream cheese, soured cream, espresso, vanilla, sugar and flour in a bowl and beat until smooth. – Add the eggs one at a time, making sure each one is fully combined before you add the next. – Take the biscuit base out of the fridge and spoon the filling mixture over the top, making sure it is evenly spread. – Put in the oven at 160 degrees for 40-45min until it is golden on top and firm to the touch.

For the filling 600g full fat cream cheese 200ml soured cream 200g caster sugar 50g plain flour 30ml espresso, cooled 1tsp vanilla extract 3 eggs For the brittle 100g caster sugar 1tbsp water 100g whole coffee beans

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– To make the brittle, put the sugar and the water in a non-stick frying pan and put on a medium/ high heat. – Once the sugar water mixture starts to bubble, stir until it is turns golden brown. – As soon as the mixture is the desired colour, remove it from the heat immediately. – Add the coffee beans and shake the pan gently to ensure all the beans are coated. – Pour onto greaseproof paper and place in the fridge to cool and harden. – Once cooled, break the brittle up into shards. – Put half the shards to one side, and blitz the remainder in a food processor until it is a fine powder. – Sprinkle the powder over the top of the cooled cheesecake, and then use the shards for decoration. ✱ LYNWOOD & CO CAFE, Market Square, Lechlade GL7 3AD; 01367 253707

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S T A R T E R S

WELCOME BACK

We come bearing good news! Made By Bob has now reopened! The muchloved restaurant/bar/deli in Cirencester closed in September for a pretty major refurb, but is now back with a vengeance (and a shiny new look), and is once again dishing up the inventive and modern fare that we all love so much. Get down there sharpish! ✱ foodmadebybob.com

FEELING HOT, HOT, HOT

NUTRITIOUS & DELICIOUS

It might be chilly outside, but temperatures have been soaring in Cirencester thanks to new peri peri restaurant Loaded Grill on Castle Street, which opened its doors at the end of January. There’s plenty of spice on the menu, with peri prawn skewers and spiced locallyreared chicken and steak, while an all-day dessert bar more than satisfies any sugar cravings. “Cirencester now has some great restaurants, and we hope that we can add to that,” says owner Foyez Rahman. “Peri peri is something I have been looking at for four years, and is a type of cuisine I think the town will really take to.”

There’s a new kid in town in the shape of Kindness and Co, which has opened up on Clarence Street in Cheltenham. The health food café serves freshly made inventive, natural dishes free from refined ingredients: think breakfasts like smashed avocado with feta and chilli on rye or sourdough, lunches of roasted cauliflower with spiced soya yoghurt dressing or baked aubergine with pomegranate, and sweet treats such as black bean brownies. To top it all, part of the profits are even being donated to Plan International to help build schools in Africa. ✱ kindness-and-co.com

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Want to be in the mag? Tag your Insta picks with #CrumbsSnaps and your pic could be here next month!

IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE WOODS…

The new owners of The Cottage in the Wood in the Malvern Hills are splashing the cash with a major refurb of their Georgian hotel and restaurant, which began earlier this month. One of the first elements getting a makeover is the 1919 restaurant, headed up by Mark Redwood who recently joined from The Old Passage in Gloucestershire. The new interior will feature naturethemed aesthetics and classic modern chandeliers and mirrors to reflect the spectacular views over the Malvern Hills, while Mark’s menu will put local ingredients centre stage. As well as revamping the restaurant and rooms, the £2.9million renovation will also include building a new orangery and spa. Lush!

Loving the look of this blackberry and kefir smoothie with mint and honey from @daylesford farm

This courgette, potato and mint tart from @shiptonmill tastes of summer, even when it's freezing outside!

✱ cottageinthewood.co.uk

TRIPLE THREAT

ARE YOU A #CRUMBSHERO? Would you like to make sure you never miss an issue of Crumbs again? Yeah? Well, you’ll want to enter our brand new competition, then. All we want you to do is to take a picture that’s somehow related to each month’s Hero Ingredient (this time it’s coffee, in case you missed it!), and tweet or Instagram it using the hashtag #crumbshero (tagging us in, of course, @crumbsmag). Every month we’ll publish our faves, and one lucky person will win a year’s subscription. What are you waiting for? Get snapping!

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Not one, not two, but three of Brakspear’s Cotswold pubs have reached the finals of the Publican Awards 2017. George Townhouse in Shipstonon-Stour and The Sheep on Sheep Street and The Porch House, both in Stow-on-the-Wold, are all up for Best Accommodation, and The Sheep on Sheep Street is also in the running for the Best New Pub award. The winners will all be announced at a swanky ceremony in London on March 14. Fingers crossed, guys, and may the best boozer win! ✱ brakspear.co.uk

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In the diary... (23 Feb) SUPPER CLUB WITH NEIL BORTHWICK AND LUCAS HOLLWEG Head to No 38 The Park in Cheltenham for a special supper being cooked up and hosted by Neil Borthwick, head chef of the immensely popular Merchants Tavern, who will be joining forces with famed food writer and self-taught cook Lucas Hollweg. For tickets, call 01242 822950. ✱ luckyonion.com (25 Feb) FOR LOVE OF THE LAND SUPPER CLUB AT THYME Let Thyme's chefs take you on a wintery journey where sustainability and seasonality shapes their ‘surprising and delicious’ menu. (Mysterious, eh?) Tickets cost £50, and include a three-course meal. ✱ thyme.co.uk


S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S

your waiter Ask Ask the Coffee Roaster Who knows the menu best? Who makes the greatest impact on your experience? Who’s behind those beans for your morning cup of Joe? The roaster! Front-of-house is your friend!

restaurants and hotels in the Cotswolds, and support them with award-winning barista training. I love what I do, and I love visiting our partners in the Cotswolds. What are the best-selling coffees at the moment? That has to be any coffee from the Santa Barbara Estate, a farm we visit often. It has brought us some outstanding coffees over the years, and 2017 looks set to be the best yet. The Veracruz for espresso is fantastic. Our roasters’ choice filter and espresso subscriptions guarantee our best picks as often as you like, direct to your door. What do you think makes for great customer service? Great people, and anyone who can tell a story and create an experience beyond the transaction.

GeTTING ROaSTeD

This here is Sean McGowan; he’s a coffee roaster at Extract Coffee Roasters

A L A N T H O R N TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y

How long have you worked here? I’ve been at Extract for two years. I started packing coffee by hand, and then learnt to roast on Betty (the roaster) under the watchful eye of David Faulkner, co-founder of Extract Coffee Roasters. And where did you work before? Before Extract I was mostly in retail jobs, but I’d always had a strong interest in speciality coffee and, after attending a home barista workshop at Extract Coffee Roasters, I decided to change my career. And what’s the best thing about working at Extract? Definitely the people! We’re a tight knit team of innovators, foodies, home

brewers, cyclists and artists, and that helps push things forward within the roaster, but also with our own learning and development. What’s the most challenging part of the job? It’s a very physical role. I’m on my feet for the majority of the day and, whilst roasting, we’ll be lifting 70kg sacks around. It’s tough, but it gives a real sense of achievement at the end of the day when you look at what’s been produced. What skills have you learnt here? I’ve developed my sensory skills beyond belief, learned to cup coffees and trained my palate. And understanding the differences in growing regions, harvesting processes and roasting styles has become a very important part of the job for me. What sort of customers do you get? We roast coffee for the best cafes,

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Where have you visited locally where the customer service was properly excellent? The Cotswolds is full of amazing food and drink experiences. I enjoy cycling around the area, and often visit Daylesford Farm when the sun’s shining. I’m a sucker for the log fire at The Wild Duck in Ewen, too! Where do you like to chill out with a cup of coffee on your days off? Bakers & Graze, No 131 or Boston Tea Party Cheltenham. Hobbs House Bakery is great for lunch when walking near Nailsworth, or you could go to 7a in Fairford for the best brownies on earth! What advice would you give someone about brewing coffee at home? Spend time with your roaster, book a short ‘how to brew session’ with them, or visit a speciality coffee shop, such as The Coffee Dispensary in Cheltenham for advice. Oh, and always grind fresh! ✱ extractcoffee.co.uk

THIS COULD BE YOU! Contact emma.dance@mediaclash.co.uk crumbsmag.com


burgertime

EVERY WEDNESDAY £12.50 CHOOSE FROM 4 DELICIOUS BURGERS

SPECIAL PINK GIN FOR THAT ROMANTIC NIGHT

VALENTINE’S DAY

10% DISCOUNT ON THE WHOLE BILL

2016 OXFORDSHIRE RESTAURANT AWARDS 2ND PLACE Best Traditional Pub Award Category

for all tables of 4 or more on the 14th February


S T A R T E R S

In the Larder

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5 4

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FULL ULL OF beans Looks like you’ll always be able to get your caffeine fix…

1 LET THEM EAT CAKE Cotswold Cake Company Double Coffee Walnut Cake, £3.49 Having been baking up delicious treats for more than 20 years, the team at the Cotswold Cake Company certainly know what they’re doing. And – with a moist sponge laced with the warmth of walnut, and icing with a proper kick of coffee – we’d heartily recommend their double coffee walnut cake. They’re available to order online, or from The Coffee Pot in Nailsworth, Viners Bakery in Cirencester, The Coffee Pot at Gorse Hill and Halls Quality Bakers in Stroud and Tetbury. ✱ cotswoldcakes.net 2 HOT SHOTS Rave Coffee Espresso Lover Taster Pack, £12 To say the folks at Rave are fanatical about coffee

is probably a bit of an understatement. They scour the globe for the best beans, then ship them to Cirencester where they’re roasted to perfection. You can sample the brews at the coffee shop in their home town, or get the beans sent to your own home. And if you’ve yet to pick a favourite bean, then try this Espresso Lover Taster Pack. ✱ ravecoffee.co.uk 3 QUICK FIX Antler & Bird Natural Lift, £1.85/250ml Made by Antler & Bird, a young team based in Gloucestershire, Natural Lift is a cold brew coffee designed to be drunk cold – making it a kind of natural alternative to chemical and sugar-filled energy drinks. It’s made by steeping freshly ground coffee in cold filtered water for 16 hours, and the result

is a sweet, delicate and refreshing black coffee that – in our experience – gives just the energy rush needed to push through a pretty bleak Monday morning. Pick it up at Daylesford Organic stores and local indie retailers, including Jolly Nice Farm Shop in Frampton Mansell. ✱ antlerandbird.co.uk 4 COCKTAIL HOUR Cotswolds Distillery Espresso Martini, £32.95 Don’t be fooled by the colourless appearance of this creation by the Cotswolds Distillery – it’s definitely an espresso martini, but not as you know it. The tantalisingly complex cocktail is made by cold-brewing a rich coffee made using locally-roasted beans sourced from the Monsoon Estates Coffee Company, which is then carefully distilled with orange

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peel, coriander seeds and a secret spice blend. Serve it ice cold from the freezer. ✱ cotswoldsdistillery.com 5 SPICE UP YOUR LIFE Gourmet Spice Company Coffee and Vanilla ‘Special Reserve’ Aged Balsamic, £13.50/2x100ml The coffee, vanilla and balsamic flavour combo is, as it turns out, pretty darn delicious – and surprisingly versatile. It gives a rich intensity to red meat dishes, or you can put a few drops in gravy or a stir-fry for an instant flavour lift. Or, add a dash of oil, crushed garlic and thyme to make a heavenly marinade. The most unusual use we’ve found for it, though, is with ice cream. Add a few drops to a scoop or two of vanilla – along with a bit of crushed meringue – and voila! ✱ yumbles.com

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S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S

New kid on the block from Butts Farm, which is nearby. I remember its great taste and texture. What first inspired you to get into restaurants professionally?  Oh, family. My uncles and father have all been involved in establishing restaurants and catering businesses across the South West and London. What was your very first job in the industry, then?  I was a waiter at my father’s restaurant. It gave me a great insight into the trade.

HOT STUFF

Say a cheery hello to Foyez Rahman, the man behind Cirencester’s new peri peri joint, Loaded Grill So, Foyez. Why peri peri? Five years ago I tried peri peri at an independent restaurant in London, and I thought it was a great use of spice – and also very healthy. There’s a lot more to it than you’d know from all those chain restaurants people associate it with. Before you ever tried peri peri, though, what’re your fondest foodie memories?  Trying Cotswold beef as a child at a restaurant in Cirencester. I think it was

restaurants. Cirencester is really happening at the moment, and I’m hoping that Loaded Grill will add to this. What are your favourite ingredients at the moment?  You can’t go wrong with chilli, paprika and mixed herbs – but I would say that! Do you grow anything yourself?  Our chefs grow their own courgettes and tomatoes.

And what’s the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? Probably cleaning toilets – but we all have to do it in this business. Ha ha! 

Any particularly good suppliers you use for the restaurant?  We’ve started using Jesse’s Butchers for all our meat. Quality ingredients are important, and none are more so than the meats you use.

Proudest career achievement?  Loaded Grill. This project is just mine, with no family involvement – except their support. They all wish me well and are there for advice, but this is my baby.

What kind of meals do you like to cook at home?  We like a lot of Italian; like many, I do a mean spag bol! Another family favourite is a good old-fashioned British fish pie.

Where might we know you from?  I’ve been running Cirencester’s Raj Doot for seven years now, and have been there since I was 16. I worked my way up to general manager before opening Loaded Grill.

Which piece of kitchen equipment couldn’t you live without?  The chargrill.

How many are there in the Loaded Grill kitchen team? We have four in the kitchen, including our head chef, and there are five of us front of house. Having plenty of staff is important for the customer experience. How have you approached the menu?  It is a family-orientated selection – easy eating, with an emphasis on affordability. Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in?  Made By Bob has just reopened, and is always a great place to go. Jesse’s Bistro on Black Jack Street is also excellent, as is The Golden Cross Inn. What makes the local scene so good?  The variety. We have some great places to go in Cirencester with many different types of cuisine, from pub food to stylish

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What, and where, was the best meal you’ve eaten?  It was in a Turkish restaurant in Manchester. The food was cooked in front of us using the freshest of ingredients. The service was amazing, and is something that I hope to replicate at Loaded Grill. Favourite cookery book?  White Heat by Marco Pierre White: not a cook book, but a culinary classic. Foodie heroes?  My uncle. I have watched him cook, and seen how he runs his restaurants. He maintains an exceptional standard that I really look up to. Finally, what’s your current favourite flavour combination? Chilli, lemon and herbs. ✱ LOADED GRILL, Castle Street, Cirencester; 01285 641195

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S T A R T E R S

THE FARM THAT CHARMED

Adam Henson is one of the best-known farmers in the UK, chatting away on the BBC’s Countryfile to millions of viewers each Sunday… ADAM HENSON might be best known for his TV work, but farming and conservation are his first passions – so, when the camera stops rolling, there’s still plenty of work to be done. Cotswold Farm Park near Cheltenham is where Adam shares these loves with the public. First opened in 1971, it’s home to more than 50 rare breeds, which you can visit for 10 months of the year (this year it reopens on February 10). But all those beast meet-and-greets, events and ‘farm safaris’ are enough to make anyone hungry, so what does Adam eat in a typical week…? ✱ cotswoldfarmpark.co.uk

B R E A K FA S T

LU N C H

DINNER

Filming Countryfile on the farm today, so breakfast was at home: Weetabix, cup of tea, and brown toast with homemade marmalade

Broccoli and Stilton soup with a crusty roll, some Single Gloucester cheese (which was a treat for my birthday) and an apple.

Jacket potato with cold roast beef, left over from our Sunday roast (and made from home reared Gloucester cattle), with salad.

Early start to get the animals fed before the film crew arrive this morning, so a quick bowl of cornflakes and a cup of tea.

Countryfile’s director provided sandwiches, crisps and a banana. All quick and easy, as there is not much time to stop when filming.

My turn to cook, so we had a simple chilli con carne made with quorn mince, because my partner, Charlie, is a vegetarian.

Just a piece of toast and a cup of tea, before heading out to spend the day with friends.

Delicious lunch with a salmon starter, roast pork, cheese and biscuits, and a real surprise – slices of fresh truffles from my friends’ woods!

Had a light snack of beans on toast, after such a big lunch.

Early start again with the animals, so Weetabix and a cup of tea.

Travelling to Scotland this lunchtime, so bought a tuna sandwich at the airport.

Delicious three-course dinner at an awards ceremony: mackerel, followed by slow cooked beef, lemon tart, then cheese and port. Totally over-indulged!

Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon, muesli and fresh fruit – the joy of staying overnight in a hotel!

Flying back from Scotland, so – having had a big breakfast – I skipped lunch and simply had a coffee and Danish pastry.

This evening we went to a friend’s house for a party. Lots of delicious finger food, which I always eat too much of.

At home this weekend, but I’m back out early on the farm feeding the animals, so a quick bowl of cornflakes and my usual cup of tea.

Quite cold on the farm today, so enjoyed a warming vegetable soup with a chunk of granary bread.

Jacket potato, and Gloucester Old Spot sausages (pork and leek flavour) with beans.

A more leisurely start to the day, so enjoyed cornflakes, toast and marmalade whilst listening to the radio.

Had some sausages left over from yesterday, which made excellent sausage sandwiches for lunch.

Roast chicken, fresh vegetables from our local farm shop, and all the trimmings – followed by apple pie and custard!

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S T A R T E R S

JuIce uP

For a refreshing vitamin boost, we’d recommend one of these fruity little numbers… FROBISHERS JUICES Frobishers has been creating the finest premium fruit juices, juice drinks, smoothies and cordials for almost 25 years now, and the guys here make it their mission to supply the best quality juices from the best quality fruits, sourced from the best producers in the world. How do they do that? By, they tell us, searching the globe for the finest fruit to create vibrant juices with bold character and bright colours. There are no concentrates or added sugar here – everything in the bottles is just good, honest fruit juice. Look out for the range at your favourite restaurants, pubs and cafes, or order online, while you can pick up the cordials at Waitrose and independent farm shops and delis, or have them delivered by Ocado. ✱ Silverton Road, Exeter EX2 8HY; frobishers.com

CLIVE’S FRUIT FARM Clive’s Fruit Farm first started in 1921, and has been passed down through one family ever since. They only started juicing in

2002, though, as a way to use up surplus fruit – and they pride themselves on producing juice which is 100 per cent natural, and is pressed and bottled within hours of the fruit being picked. No surprise, then, that they’ve won heaps of awards. You can bag these juices at Waitrose or Ocado, as well as through a bunch of independent retailers. Or, even better, you can visit the farm for yourself and peruse the other goodies on offer at their recently opened farm shop, then relax in the café – or even pick your own fruit! ✱ Upper Hook Road, Upton-upon-Severn, Worcester WR8 0SA; clivesfruitfarm.co.uk

WHOLE FOOD MARKET JUICE BAR One of the most vital parts of the Whole Foods Cheltenham store is its juice bar. Running since the opening, some four years ago, the bar offers a variety of favourite recipes that are produced fresh each day, ready for thirsty customers to grab on the go. Alternatively, the friendly juicers here can make a bespoke juice

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to suit different diets and requirements. All ingredients abide by the same quality standards as the rest of the shop, and range from juicy raspberries, blueberries and strawberries in their ‘Very Berry’ smoothie and – a firm favourite – the ‘Triple Green’, with its kale, spinach, kiwi, ginger and lemon. These guys also offer specially crafted shots to help boost your mood or support your immune system, using special ingredients like manuka honey, goji juice, and raw cacao. Real juice junkies can pick up a loyalty card giving them a free juice once they’ve bought ten, too. Bonus! ✱ Gallagher Retail Park, Tewkesbury Road, Cheltenham GL51 9RR; wholefoodsmarket.com/stores/ Cheltenham

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( advertising feature )

VALENTINE’S AT THE HOG

2 courses £29 • 3 courses £34 Why not make a night of it and stay in one of our wonderful ensuite B&B rooms.

See our website for more information To make your reservation, please call 01453 833843 or email info@thehogathorsley.co.uk The South West’s ‘Best Pub’ Western Daily Press Food and Farming Awards 2016 Gloucestershire’s Community Pub of the Year Young Business of the Year 2015 Tel: 01453 833843 f thehogathorsley T thehogathorsley

www.thehogathorsley.co.uk

HOME TIME Quintessentially Cotswolds pub The Inn for all Seasons has new owners who are waiting to greet you with the warmest of welcomes

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t’s just like coming home for the new owners of The Inn for All Seasons, Edward and Melanie Hillier. Melanie’s grandfather worked as a groomsman on the nearby Barrington Estate, and with four generations of the family living within just a few miles of the inn, the Hilliers are happy to be home. The Inn for All Seasons is an unspoilt former c16th coaching Inn, full of Cotswolds charm, and with a wonderfully convenient location just off the A40 in Little Barrington; three miles west of Burford. The husband and wife team are planning some refurbishment but will be careful to retain the charm of the original Cotswold stone walls, exposed beams, flagstone floors and large fireplaces. The aim is to offer the warmth and ambience of a traditional country Inn with excellent food, lovely rooms and a warmest of welcomes. The Inn is now open 7 days a week from 8am – 10pm. So why not join us for a drink or treat yourself to dinner from our renowned fish board which features the freshest fish sourced directly from Devon and Cornwall.

The Inn for All Seasons, Little Barrington, Burford, Oxfordshire, OX18 4TN Tel: 01451 844324 Email: info@theinnforallseasons.co.uk www.theinnforallseasons.co.uk


S T A R T E R S

The freshest, most inspirational cookbooks of the month

THE FIVE SEASONS KITCHEN •

ISBN 978-1-910690-31-4

COOKING IS NOT MEASURED IN TERMS OF MODERNITY OR TRADITION: THE ONLY REAL REQUIREMENT IS THAT THE COOK’S LOVING CARE IS EVIDENT Pierre Gagnaire

9 781910 690314

CLEANSE, NURTURE, RESTORE WITH HERBAL TEA

LUNCH ON THE GO

BREAKING BREADS

More than a million cups of Bristol-based Pukka Herbs’ tea are consumed every day – probably more during the start of the year, when most of us are sticking to healthy New Year’s resolutions. Written by Pukka Herbs founder Sebastian Pole – a trained practitioner in Ayurveda, traditional Chinese medicine and western herbalism – this book brings together 70 herbal tea recipes using dried and fresh herbs for health, well-being and flavour. From helping you to sleep to supporting your digestion and rebooting your energy levels, the book provides a fascinating insight into how herbal tea can be tailored to different needs. Not that there isn’t room for some fun, as the recipe for Winter Tonic Elixir demonstrates, with its warming blend of brandy and Amaretto combined with all those herbs and spices.

With around a third of ‘on the go’ meals eaten at work or school, nutritious, delicious (and cheaper) homemade lunches are big business. Much more than the wafer-thin ham sandwich and packet of crisps from yesteryear, the new supercharged lunchbox can be a beautiful thing, as the 75 recipes in this book demonstrate. Aimed at kids and adults alike, the book is divided into chapters on sandwiches, wraps and rolls; salad jars, bowls and bentos; soups and hot food; savouries; snacks; and ‘something sweet’. Inspired options include avocado and chickpea wraps; marinated mushroom, crispy kale and rice salad; vegetable broth with chicken and kaffir lime; and orange, cardamom and hemp-seed muffins. With so many imaginative ideas, you’ll never buy another dreary supermarket sandwich for lunch.

Ryland Peters & Small, £14.99

Uri Scheft Artisan Books, £25

Sebastian Pole Frances Lincoln, £20

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Uri Scheft is the DanishIsraeli master baker behind the highly regarded Lehamim Bakery in Tel Aviv, and Breads Bakery in New York. Here, the Nutellafilled babkas have attained cult status, and the potato and shakshuka focaccia and chocolate rugelach are pulled out the ovens several times an hour for waiting crowds. Breaking Breads combines the many cultural influences of his life: Middle Eastern flavours and traditions, European pastry techniques, and baking experience from Italy and Istanbul. There are 100 recipes for flatbreads, stuffed breads, challahs and biscuits, with detailed instructions and clear step-by-step photographs on mixing, kneading and proofing. Very much a book aimed at experienced home bakers, it’s a fascinating collection of recipes of globally-inspired bread products.

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

www.grubstreet.co.uk

THE FIVE SEASONS KITCHEN

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

THE FIVE SEASONS KITCHEN Pierre Gagnaire Grub Street, £25

Voted ‘best chef in the world’ by his peers, Pierre Gagnaire is celebrating 50 years in the kitchen – and what better way to mark this impressive milestone than a collection of his best dishes? Why five seasons? Well, Gagnaire says spring must be divided into two, because the produce at the beginning is very different to what you get at the end. Each chapter has six seasonal three-course menus created from 90 dishes in Gagnaire’s extensive repertoire. A typical winter menu, for example, kicks off with a starter of Puy green lentil soup and foie gras, moves on to a main course of shimizu chicken supreme with avocado, pink grapefruit, green apple and celery, and then finishes with butternut squash, Medjool dates and fresh grapes infused in cinnamon syrup.

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FERMENT, PICKLE, DRY

Simon Poffley and Gaba Smolinksa-Poffley Frances Lincoln, £20

As well as being the founder of London’s Left Bank Brewery, Simon Poffley teaches sourdough bread baking and runs fermenting and preserving workshops at The Fermentarium with Polish-born Gaba, who is also a keen forager. In their first book, the couple teaches us how to preserve foods using centuries-old methods and then how to use those preserved ingredients in a range of contemporary dishes. Aimed as much at beginners as seasoned preservers, the book explains everything you need to know about equipment, sterilising and sealing. Recipes include pulled pork with swede mash, grilled nectarines and honey-pickled garlic; pickled oranges, spiced cuttlefish and squid ink linguini; and dried fruit pickled in brandy. A fascinating book that uses ancient methods to create ultra-modern dishes.

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From: THE FIVE SEASONS KITCHEN Pierre Gagnaire Grub Street, £25

CHICORY STUFFED with DRIED APRICOTS and GOLDEN RAISINS, SERVED with a PARMESAN CREAM SAUCE (SERVES 6)

INGREDIENTS

6 heads of chicory, all of the same grade 1 lemon, juice only 60g butter, diced, plus extra for the filling and for frying pinch sugar 1 shallot, chopped 6 dried apricots, diced 30g golden raisins, soaked in water and drained 1 tbsp breadcrumbs 12 chives, scalded 500ml double cream 120g Parmesan, grated 2 tbsp Noilly Prat vermouth

METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Arrange the chicory in a casserole dish, then fill the dish with water and the lemon juice until half submerged. Add the diced butter and the sugar and season lightly with salt. Cover with baking paper and bring to a low boil. Then place the lid on top and transfer to the oven for 30-40 minutes. – Check that the chicory heads are cooked by piercing with a knife: it should slide in easily. Drain and leave to cool before opening the chicory out flat and removing some of the flesh from the centre. – Brown the shallot in butter, while you chop the chicory hearts, then add them in and

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cook until they release their water. Remove from the heat, then add the apricots, raisins and breadcrumbs. Season and mix together. – Divide the filling between the chicory heads, then roll each one up and secure with a few knotted chives. Melt a little butter until brown, then use to colour the chicory. – In a saucepan, reduce the cream by half, then add the Parmesan and the Noilly. Season with salt and pepper, if required. – Preheat the oven to 160C/315F/gas mark 3. Transfer the Parmesan cream sauce to a gratin dish, place the chicory on top and bake in the oven for 10 minutes.


Chef!

WHAT TO COOK, AND HOW TO COOK IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF THE REGION’S BEST CHEFS

Highlights How much do you want to lick this spoon? A lot, right? (Or is that just us?)

THE SPICE IS RIGHT

Spice-spiked lamb koftes to tantalise the tastebuds Page 28

FEELING CRABBY Sophisticated seafood snacking! Page 30

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FOR THE LOVE OF CHOCOLATE A truly seductive dessert Page 32

Plus 34 LET’S SALSA! Salsa verde meets steak for a sexy supper


Chef!

This recipe from Navina Bartlett is quick and easy to prepare, sure, but still packs a real punch when it comes to flavour…

SPICE WORLD Originally from Bangalore in Southern India, Navina Bartlett is the founder of Coconut Chilli, a Bristol-based food start-up manufacturing ‘hill station inspired Indian meal pots’. This dish is quick and easy to prepare, and both the koftes and the raitha can be made in advance if you are inviting guests to your home. “I’ve used flavourful salt marsh lamb mince in this dish because it has a unique sweetness,” Navina says, “which comes from the sheep grazing on the salt marshes – which are just over the Severn Bridge in Wales. The lamb combines so, so well with the umami properties of the caramelized black garlic.” Navina has also used asafoetida, otherwise known as hing, in the recipe. “It’s a pungent root that you can buy as a powder from most Indian grocers,” she explains, “and is extremely potent, so you must only ever use a small pinch. But it gives a really nice savoury flavour to your dish. Don’t worry if you can’t find it, though, as the dish works perfectly well without it.” ✱ coconutchilli.com

SALT MARSH LAMB KOFTE KEBABS with AUBERGINE RAITHA (SERVES 4)

FOR THE KOFTES (makes 8)

FOR THE AUBERGINE RAITHA INGREDIENTS

½ small aubergine ½ white onion diced 1 tsp coconut oil 1 whole red chilli (optional) ⅛ tsp black mustard seeds ½ tsp urid dhal pinch asafoetida (hing) (optional)

INGREDIENTS

½ tsp whole cumin 500g salt marsh lamb mince 2 cloves black garlic (or ordinary garlic, if you can’t find it) 1 inch ginger, grated 1 tsp curry powder (ideally Bolsts brand) handful coriander, coarsely chopped 1 tsp Himalayan pink salt (or just sea salt) METHOD

– Pre-soak your wooden skewers for at least one hour, so they don’t burn under the grill. – Dry roast the whole cumin in a frying pan for 1-2 minutes on a very low heat to release the oils in the cumin. – Mix all the ingredients and spices together, and use your hands to form eight balls. – Carefully shape the koftes onto the wooden skewers and put in the fridge to firm for 1 hour. – Place under a hot grill for 5-6 minutes on a low shelf, so that they don’t burn. The meat should be slightly caramelized on the outside, but still a little pink in the middle. – If you prefer a well-done kofte, cook for 8 minutes under a medium grill.

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200g probiotic whole milk yoghurt ½ tsp Himalaya pink salt (or use sea salt) small handful coriander, chopped METHOD

– Chop aubergine into 1 inch pieces. – Add water to a small pan, bring to the boil and cook the aubergine for 5-7 minutes, until soft. Drain and smash with a potato masher. Drain any excess water before placing in fridge to chill for 30 minutes. – Finely dice white onion. – Make a spice temper by heating the coconut oil in a small saucepan with a lid. When hot, add the mustard seeds and place the lid on the pan. Quickly lower the heat and wait until the popping stops (approx. 10-15 seconds). – Add the urid dhal and fry until lightly browned. Remove from heat, then add hing and stir. – Meanwhile, mix together the aubergine, onion, yoghurt and coriander in a bowl until well combined. Chill in the fridge until needed. – Add the spice temper and coriander just before serving. Adjust seasoning to taste and garnish with coriander.

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Chef!

Snack in style with this sophisticated (yet fishy!) take on a sausage roll from The Gumstool

rOLL uP

✱ THE GUMSTOOL, Calcot Manor, Tetbury GL8 8YJ; 01666 890391; calcot.co

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The Gumstool forms part of the rather lovely Calcot Estate in Tetbury, and is frankly pretty fabulous. It’s a traditional pub, but with all the elegance that defines the Calcot style. This yummy recipe is a fishy take on that pub classic, the sausage roll. It’s usually found in the starters/light mains section of The Gumstool menu but, as they’ve very kindly shared it with us, you can now get a taste of Calcot at home!

CRAB SAUSAGE ROLL, BROWN CRAB MAYO and LEMON (SERVES 12) INGREDIENTS

For the salmon mousse 450g salmon fillet 4 eggs (3 whites and one whole egg) 850ml double cream 10g salt 3g cayenne pepper 8ml lemon juice For the crab roll filling 1kg white crab meat 6 slices white bread 250ml milk 500g brown crab meat ½ bunch parsley, finely chopped 4 lemons, juiced bunch chives, chopped 1 pack ready made puff pastry For the crab mayonnaise 500g brown crab meat 100ml tomato sauce 250ml mayonnaise 10ml tabasco 10ml Worcestershire sauce juice of half a lemon

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METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Begin by making the salmon mousse. Blend the salmon flesh to a fine purée and add the eggs. – Pass through a fine sieve and place on a plate in the freezer for about 10 minutes. When the edges start to crystalise, blend again until smooth. – Add 550ml of the cream, and continue adding until you have a smooth consistency. Now add the salt, cayenne pepper and lemon juice, and reserve for later. – Next make the crab roll filling. Dry the white crab meat on kitchen roll or a clean cloth. – Soak the bread in the milk until soft, then squeeze out the excess liquid and blend until smooth. – Combine with the rest of the ingredients and 300g of the salmon mousse – Poach off a small amount to check the flavour, and balance and adjust the seasoning if required. – Roll in cling film to form a ballotine. Chill for 20 minutes to set. – To make the crab mayonnaise, combine all the ingredients and season with salt and pepper. – Roll out the puff pastry. – Unwrap the filling from the cling film and place on top of the pastry, leaving enough space around it to fold over and seal the join and ends, then wrap and seal the pastry around it. – Egg wash the pastry, put on a tray lined with parchment paper, and bake at 180C for 25 minutes, or until the pastry is done. – Leave to cool before dividing the roll into portions. – Serve each slice of sausage roll accompanied by a generous spoonful of the crab mayonnaise and a wedge of lemon.


Chef!

SweeT fOR YOUr SweeT This fabulous dessert by Lee Mayo, head chef at StarBistro in Cheltenham, is sure to be a Valentine’s Day hit…

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StarBistro’s head chef Lee Mayo trained at The Mad Hatter in Nailsworth, and has worked in hotels and restaurants across the UK and in New Zealand, but guess what? Yes, his current job is his favourite. Heading up the team at StarBistro in Royal Crescent, Cheltenham, Lee teaches National Star students – who have physical disabilities and learning difficulties – how to prep, cook and serve gorgeous food. Lee says this recipe is one that he used to make in New Zealand, and will satisfy any sweet tooth. It is, he says, an especially good pudding to dish up if you’re trying to win hearts. Chocolate and a drop of Baileys – what a combo! Okay, so it demands a bit of whisking and whipping, but the good news is that it's well worth the effort – and the even better good news is that it can largely be made in advance. You can use a blow torch on it if you fancy showing off, but a hot knife works just as well.

CHOCOLATE and BAILEYS MOUSSE with CHOCOLATE SORBET and SESAME TUILLE (SERVES 4) INGREDIENTS

For the mousse 150g dark chocolate 2 tbsp Baileys liqueur 3 egg whites 50g caster sugar 100ml double cream For the sorbet (this will leave plenty to keep in the freezer!) 750ml water 150g caster sugar 300g dark chocolate For the sesame tuille 50g butter zest and juice of half an orange 25ml glucose syrup 25g gluten free flour  75g icing sugar  50g sesame seeds For the chocolate paint 50g dark chocolate 25ml olive oil

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METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/ gas mark 3. – Make the mousse by melting the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Be careful not to get any water in the chocolate, as it will make it go grainy.  – Stir in the Baileys and leave to one side to cool slightly.  – Whisk the egg whites in a bowl until they reach ‘stiff peak’ stage, then add half the sugar and whisk in, followed by the rest of the sugar and whisk again. The eggs whites should be like a glossy and smooth meringue.  – Whip the double cream in a separate bowl until semi-whipped.  – Add one spoon of the meringue mix to the chocolate and beat in to loosen, then carefully fold in the meringue and whipped cream to keep the mousse light.  – Spoon the mix into four cooking rings and leave in the fridge to set for at least two hours. – While the mousse is setting, make the sorbet. Place 200ml of water and the caster sugar in a pan and bring to the boil, whisking so the sugar dissolves. – Leave to simmer for 5 minutes on a low heat.  – Take off the heat and whisk in the chocolate, then add the rest of the water.  – Place in ice cream machine or in a

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plastic container in the freezer, mixing every half an hour until you get a smooth sorbet consistency.  – Leave in the freezer until required. – To make the tuille, melt the butter in a pan on a low heat with the orange juice and zest and the glucose syrup.  – Sieve the flour and the icing sugar and add to the mixture along with the sesame seeds, then place to rest in the fridge for an hour.  – Using a palette knife, spread the mix thinly onto a non-stick baking sheet or greaseproof paper and bake for approximately 10-12 minutes until dark golden brown, then transfer onto a cooling rack to set. – To serve, make the chocolate paint by melting the chocolate and whisking in the olive oil until you have a smooth mixture, then – using a pastry brush or a (clean!) paint brush – paint a line across the centre of the plate. – Loosen the mousse from the cooking ring using a blowtorch or a knife dipped in hot water, and place onto the plate.  – Neatly scoop the sorbet onto the plate (using some grated dark chocolate to sit the sorbet on, if you need to stop it rolling around) and place the tuille across the top.  ✱ STARBISTRO, 12 Royal Crescent, Cheltenham GL50 3DA; 01242 572958; nationalstar.org


Chef!

hIGh STeaks One of our fave local lasses, Katriona MacGregor, has shared this cracker of a recipe for a quick and easy – but super-special – weekday supper

A piquant herby sauce, salsa verde is a delicious accompaniment or dressing  for meat, fish and vegetables, writes Katriona MacGregor. You can even use it as a salad dressing. Here, it makes a quick and tasty partner to smoky, chargrilled steak. This recipe will leave you with plenty of sauce for a second meal, or to use to dress new potatoes or salads. You can either chop the ingredients finely by hand on a board, or blitz everything in a blender.

METHOD

– Peel the clove of garlic and pop into the bowl of a blender with the anchovies, mustard, vinegar, capers and cornichons. – Switch on the blender and blitz to a paste. This is to avoid having any big chunks of garlic or cornichon in the finished sauce. – Once you have a lump-free paste, stop the blender and add the herbs and olive oil. – Blitz again for 30 seconds or so, until you have a coarse green sauce similar in texture to a thin pesto. – Pour out into a bowl. – Stir in some freshly ground black pepper and salt, according to taste. Already containing salty anchovies and capers means the sauce is unlikely to need much more. Leave the sauce on one side, allowing the flavours to develop while you cook the steak. – Heat a chargrill pan over a high heat. – Rub a little olive oil and some salt and pepper into both sides of each steak and, when the pan is almost smoking, add the steaks.  – Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the steaks and how you like them cooked. – Remove from the pan and allow to rest for a few minutes. – Serve the steaks sliced on a pile of rocket with the salsa verde drizzled over the top.

CHARGRILLED STEAK with SALSA VERDE (SERVES 2) INGREDIENTS

1 clove garlic 4 anchovy fillets 1 tsp dijon mustard 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tbsp capers 1 tbsp cornichons 2 large handfuls parsley 1 handful mint leaves 1 handful basil 100ml olive oil 2 x 200g rump steak rocket (to serve)

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✱ This delicious recipe is taken from Healthy Speedy Suppers by Katriona MacGregor (hardback, £16.99), published by Nourish Books; photography by Andrew Crowley

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Armoury CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS

JUICE ALMIGHTY Seems like the 1950s never go out of fashion, doesn’t it? This thing’s got that old-school vibe you see in so much Italian design these days. It all looks great, I grant you, but it’s so… codified. Like something that was modern in the past but no longer is, and is now just reproduced endlessly. Some of what you say is true, I suppose – much of Italian design is flashy and highly polished, yes, but intrinsically conservative too – but as far as Smeg’s retro-modern ’50s-style range is concerned at least, that’s deliberately, gloriously so. Modern technology is hidden behind ice cream colours and Lambretta lines to winning effect, not least in the seasonally-relevant SJF01 Slow Juicer. It’s just the job for extracting the very best from every virtuous fruit and veggie you chuck inside. What makes it ‘slow’, exactly? I want fast, surely. (Hey, we all lead busy lives!) What makes it ‘slow’ is its spiritual alignment with the Slow Food movement – basically, the polar opposite to ‘Fast Food’. Slow Food is obsessed with regional, traditional cuisine and small, sustainable businesses – and is generally antiglobalisation, anti-pesticides and anti-monoculture. And it’s an Italian invention too, first appearing in the mid’80s in opposition to the opening of a McDonald’s in Rome. So it’s not physically slow, just... spiritually slow? Actually, with this thing it’s both, as the the Slow Juicer operates at what we’re told is an optimal 43rpm, which is just enough to squeeze your ingredients into juice without crushing the cells within them, or damaging their nutrients and enzymes through necessary heat. The

THIS MONTH crumbsmag.com

Stylistic cousin to the Vespa and the Fiat 500 it may be, but don’t underestimate the Smeg Slow Juicer, says Matt Bielby. It offers more than just Amalfi Coast-friendly good looks…

✱ The Smeg Slow Juicer is £449.99 from the likes of Gardiner Sons & Co in Cirencester, plus Currys, John Lewis et al; smeguk.com

whole process is called Slow Squeezing Technology, or SST, and – as you might expect – it has a little ‘TM’ next to it. Clever, I suppose, in a conventional sort of a way. Actually, I think it’s just clever full stop. The colours this thing comes in are great – pick from cream, black, red and pastel blue – but it’s also quite an interesting shape, with both a vertical loading mechanism and a ‘juice density regulator’ that allows you to customise exactly how much pulp you have in your glass. It works with soft and hard fruits, most vegetables and leafy greens, and squeezes more juice out of each piece than other methods would, too. Blimey! You’ll be telling me it’s easy to clean next. Actually, it is. And it also minimises crushed fruit’s exposure to oxygen, stopping any browning of the flesh and making for fresh juices that can be happily stored in your fridge for up to 48 hours. A ’50s-style Smeg fridge, no doubt? Just the thing. If that wouldn’t be too predictable for you…?

STARS OF THE SEA

THAT LOVING FEELING

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TAKE IT SLOW


Crumbs cooks with

FAMILY VALUES

When Gareth and Helena Fulford – owners of Cheltenham’s chic seafood joint, Purslane – invited us round to their gaff for a spot of lunch, we just couldn’t say no…

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We’re very privileged (and lucky, it seems), then, that Gareth is knocking us up some lunch, and on his day off as well. I say, ‘knocking up’, but the menu Gareth has planned of Cornish hake, heritage potatoes, St Austell mussels and seashore greens, followed by Wye Valley rhubarb mess with stem ginger and honeycomb, are the sorts of dishes that I’m more likely to reserve for special occasions, and will set aside a whole day to prepare. Gareth, however, is moving effortlessly around the kitchen, simultaneously chatting and chopping and navigating his way around six-month-old Benedict, who is cooing happily from his rocker, enthralled by all the action. It’s not difficult to spot the award-winning chef in the room. “The hake is a version of a dish that we do in the restaurant,” says Gareth. “Hake is a wonderful fish, but it’s very

areth Fulford might be one of Cheltenham’s top chefs, but it’s a rarity to find him cooking at home. “Most of the cooking is left to me, which is dubious at best!” says Gareth’s wife, Helena. And apparently Gareth’s culinary skills haven’t rubbed off on her. “I’m so worried about poisoning someone that I overcook everything,” she admits. “I think I’ve got even worse at cooking since I met Gareth.” Gareth starts to refute this claim, but then Helena reminds him of the recent incident where she managed to burn the cheese on toast, and the time that their five-and-a-half-yearold son George regretfully told his mother that he couldn’t eat the dinner she had prepared him, because “it just wasn’t very nice”. Eventually he acquiesces.

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under-used. It’s the sixth most landed fish in the UK by weight, but only the 28th most consumed.” The restaurant he is referring to is Purslane, the seafood specialist in the centre of Cheltenham that the couple opened together back in 2012. And, from the start, sustainability and seasonality have been the cornerstones of the menu. “We only use fish from British waters,” explains Gareth. “You’ll never find red snapper or tuna or swordfish on our menus. We change our offering every month, and we are always led by what the fishermen are landing. “We work with Flying Fish and New Wave, who are fantastic suppliers. They phone me and tell me what’s coming in, so everything we use is as fresh as it possibly can be." Land-locked Cheltenham might not be an immediately obvious location for a seafood restaurant, but for Gareth it makes perfect sense. “I always enjoyed cooking seafood,” says Gareth. “And I knew from places I had worked before, like The Kingham Plough, that I could get great suppliers. “And I also knew that there were already a lot of restaurants in Cheltenham, so if we were going to make a success of it we would have to do something that would make us stand out from the crowd. We needed a USP, aside from just the quality of the cooking.” And it looks like they hit the sweet spot with Purslane, since in the four years since it opened the restaurant has gathered accolades, rave reviews and a loyal customer base. No mean feat in a marketplace as saturated with dining establishments as this one. “It seems as if there’s a new restaurant opening every week,” says Helena. “It’s a double-edged sword. It’s good, because it means that this is an area that people want to invest in, and competition is healthy, but at the same time there’s only so many diners to go around.” And what about the much publicised closing of posh-ish chain restaurant Jamie’s Italian in the town? Gareth shrugs. “That’s been blamed on Brexit, hasn’t it? But they said they had to do something like 3,000 covers a week – a huge amount. It’s very different from what we do at Purslane, and I don’t think it’s a reflection of what’s going on in the area at all. This industry is certainly hard

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work, but we’ve held our own. We do what we do, and people seem to like it!” The success of Purslane doesn’t mean that the couple are resting on their laurels, however. “We’re always trying to improve and evolve and push forwards,” says Gareth. “If you’re standing still then you’re moving backwards. “Every month the two other chefs in the restaurant and I create a new menu based on seasonality. We have a file of menus from the past two years, so we look at what we did in previous years and talk about what worked and what didn’t, and then do some brainstorming. Then I’ll develop the menu. Sometimes a new dish will come together straight away, but sometimes it can take months before we’re entirely happy with it. Each menu we do, we’re trying to improve on the last one. We’re always looking for, but rarely achieving, perfection. “Certainly, the food has come on leaps and bounds since we started. A lot of that is down to the staff. When we started it was just myself and an apprentice in the kitchen – now I have a sous chef and a chef de partie.” However, Gareth is now facing the same challenge as numerous other eateries all over the country – recruiting someone new. “Sadly, my sous chef is leaving. We’ve been very lucky to keep him for the length of time that we have, but you always want the chefs coming up to go on to be better than you, and it’s the right time for him. We have had an advert for a replacement out for two weeks now, and not one single applicant. “It’s not like we’re paying peanuts, and it’s a good place to work. And we invest in our staff with things like training courses, because it’s important for them – and for us – to keep learning.” One member of staff for whom working at Purslane has been a big learning experience is Helena. Previously a journalist, she quit her job to help Gareth pursue his dream, and to allow them to start a family. “Opening a restaurant was never my dream,” she admits. “But it was Gareth’s. And we wanted to start a family, and doing my job part-time wasn’t feasible. “Opening Purslane has given us the flexibility we wanted, but I have spent the last four-and-a-half years learning about restaurants, and I’ve done

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a book-keeping qualification, so I take care of the admin side of the business.” “The family is really important to us,” adds Gareth. “Not only did I want to open my own place to be able to cook what I wanted to cook, and offer the experience that I wanted to offer, but also to be able to spend more time with the family. We close every Sunday and Monday, and every Sunday is a family day. Having the restaurant so close means that I can often pop home during the day too, even if it’s just for 40 minutes. That’s not something I was ever able to do before.” ‘Home’, by the way, is a gorgeous Georgian house just an easy stroll from the centre of town. It’s where Gareth and Helena have lived for 13 years. “Initially we were renting it,” says Helena. “But then the owners wanted to sell, so we were lucky enough to be able to buy it – though it wasn’t in a very good state. The cupboard doors were hanging off, and there was me – working on an interiors magazine at the time, and so always looking at pictures of fabulous kitchens and bathrooms. I couldn’t wait to change it, and I think we’ve redone every room now!” The result is a triumph; classically stylish, but with the comforting lived-in

feel that comes automatically with a family home filled with love and laughter. The kitchen is a calm and restful space, with one wall adorned by menus from places Gareth has cooked, or the couple have eaten. In a corner stands a small, child-sized kitchen unit where George likes to play. “I’ll come home and he’ll say ‘I’ve made you something,’” says Gareth. “And he phones in orders to suppliers, too!” So, is he likely to be following in his dad’s footsteps? “If he wants to come into the family business it would be nice,” says Gareth. “But I’m not going to push him in that direction. He can be whatever he wants to be.” “At the moment he wants to be an archaeologist/Red Arrows pilot/Formula One driver,” adds Helena,“so I guess we’ll see!” If the appreciative noises Benedict is making when he spies today’s finished plates being brought to the table are anything to go by, there’s a good chance he might have a career in food, though – even if his brother doesn’t. Sadly (for him), however, his lack of teeth means he’s going to be missing out on this lunchtime’s grub. So what’s the secret to great fish cookery?, I ask Gareth. “If you can brine it, that really helps,” he says. “It seasons the fish, firms it up and makes it more succulent. Then just don’t mess around with it much when you’re cooking it.” It sounds simple, but I suspect there’s more of an art to it than he’s letting on. When dessert is produced, Helena cries out excitedly, and not just because it looks so damn good. “Those were the glasses you used when you first cooked for me,” she says. “I think it was a Champagne jelly with some fruit.” I ask if she remembers the first time she cooked for Gareth. “Oh no,” she says. “It was probably awful, or pizza or something!” So not much has changed, then. ✱ PURSLANE, 6 Rodney Road, Cheltenham GL50 1JJ; 01242 321639; purslane-restaurant.co.uk

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COrnish HaKe, heritaGe pOtatOes, St AusteLL MUsseLs, seashOre Greens (SERVES 4)

  INGREDIENTS

For the brine 500g water 50g salt 50g sugar 1 x sprig fresh thyme zest of half a lemon ¼ tsp coriander seeds ¼ tsp fennel seeds ¼ tsp black peppercorns For the main dish 4 x 120g hake portions, skin on  12 x pink fir potatoes  200g mussels a large handful of seashore greens (Gareth recommends samphire, sea spinach and sea purslane. Ordinary spinach could be substituted if any are not available) 1 x banana shallot 1 x clove garlic 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 50g butter 1 glass white wine 50g double cream   METHOD

– Boil the ingredients for brine to dissolve salt and sugar, then cool. – Place the hake portions in the brine for 20 minutes. – Wash the hake under cold water and pat it dry. – Cook pink fir potatoes in boiling salted water for approximately 10 minutes, cool, then peel the skin off. – Clean any debris off mussels, wash thoroughly, and remove beards. – Pick and wash your greens. – Chop shallot and garlic. – Season the hake with salt then cook skinside down in a hot non-stick pan with the oil and butter. – When the fish is cooked halfway through (approximately 3-4 minutes), turn over and turn the heat down low. – Sweat the diced shallot and garlic until soft in a saucepan. – Slice the potatoes and add to the shallot and garlic. – Turn up heat on saucepan, add mussels and white wine, and cover with a lid. – When the mussels begin to open, add the double cream and remove the lid in order to reduce the liquid slightly. – Blanch the greens in boiling water. – Serve in large bowls, perhaps with a glass of chilled Muscadet.

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The Inn at Fossebridge AMAZING SPECIAL OFFER Available throughout February (excluding Sunday’s and Valentine’s Night) A complimentary bottle of wine for every two persons when you purchase a minimum of two courses each. (6 different wines to choose from) Head Chef, Nico and the team are eager and passionate about our casual but classic dining concept. ‘Probably the best you have ever tasted’

Nestled at the base of the Malvern Hills within walking distance of the popular festival town Upton upon Severn, you will find Clive’s Fruit Farm. We are a family run farm, famous for growing fruit which is handpicked, pressed and bottled on site. We produce a large selection of single variety apple and pear juices and have extended our range by fusing flavours such as fiery ginger & pear or our delicious new apple & mango. These are all available in our farm shop, online and also many local cafes. Why not come and try our juices and, if you’re brave enough, our traditionally produced farmhouse cider and perry “Wobblejuice”! There is a children play area, coffee shop serving homemade treats and well stocked farm shop with deli counter and butchery. Monday - Saturday 9am - 5pm • Sundays & Bank Holidays 10am - 4pm

Upper Hook Road, Upton upon Severn, Worcs. WR8 0SA

For further enquiries and to book please call 01285 720721 or email us on info@fossebridgeinn.co.uk

01684 592664

www.clivesfruitfarm.co.uk


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T H E WA N T LI S T Get loved up for Valentine’s Day

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5 1 AMARA HEART BOWLS IN PINK £30 We totally heart these cute little bowls from Oliver Bonas. Fill them with nuts and nibbles to feed your loved one this V-Day. You can pick them up from Oliver Bonas in Oxford or Bristol. ✱ oliverbonas.com 2 CHAMPAGNE LOVE FLUTES £64.95 No Valentine’s Day is properly complete without some bubbly. These silver-plated Champagne flutes are as stylish as they are romantic, and are infinitely less cringe than doing that whole linking arm thing. Get your pair online from Cuckooland. ✱ cuckooland.com 3 EMMA BRIDGEWATER PINK HEARTS PLATE £12.95 If you’re cooking up a V-Day feast at home, then you’ll want to dress (the table!) to impress, and this plate with its pretty heart pattern is sure to do the job. Now all you need do is decide on a suitably loved-up menu! You can get yours from Cotswold Trading in Broadway. ✱ cotswoldtrading.com 4 SET OF FOUR COFFEE SPOONS BY MIRIAM MIRRI FOR ALESSI £19.95 Create a stir with these supercute heart-shaped coffee spoons. They’re the perfect way to add a touch of romance to your morning cup of Joe. Get yours from the Cheltenham Kitchener. ✱ kitchenercookware.com 5 JUST SLATE HEART MOTIF CHEESE WIRE £15.99 Being cheesy isn’t always a bad thing, like in the case of this heart motif cheese wire. Who’s gonna brie your Valentine this year? Pick yours up from the ever-useful Lakeland in Cheltenham. ✱ lakeland.co.uk

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delicious diner

Situated in the heart of Frampton Industrial estate, formerly the home of Cadbury’s, Mrs Massey’s can be found in the original changing rooms which have been transformed into a contemporary diner offering breakfasts, coffees, lunches and afternoon tea – all cooked freshly to order using local ingredients.

Unit 5 - 7 // Frampton Industrial Estate // Bridge Road Frampton on Severn // Gloucestershire // GL2 7HE www.mrsmasseysdeliciousdiner.com 01452 740016 // lovefrommrsmassey@icloud.com

Taking bookings for Valentine’s and Mothering Sunday

www.coriniumhotel.co.uk

info@coriniumhotel.co.uk 12 Gloucester Street, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 2DG

Where you can always be assured of a warm welcome…

A warm welcome awaits you in our family run pub with rooms, situated in the picturesque Cotswolds.

The Swan Inn High Street | Moreton-in-Marsh Gloucestershire | GL56 0LL

01608 650711

E-mail: info@swanmoreton.co.uk Web: www.swanmoreton.co.uk

Locally renowned for our great food, warm hospitality & attentive service

Candlelit Valentine’s Dinner 11th & 14th February Restaurant open lunch & dinner Traditional Sunday roasts from £12.95 Bar open all day * Camra member Functions & Special Occasions Ample free parking

Bookings or enquiries 01285 659711


The Angel Hotel 47 High Street with this Wootton Bassett advert Wiltshire SN4 7AQ Tel: 01793 851161 Email: TheAngel.WBassett@arkells.com

10% DISCOUNT

Join us at one of our Theme Nights or Extreme Nights for charity: LARGE STEAK BURGER CHALLENGE £60 25th February 2017. In aid of the Wiltshire Air Ambulance Our ball room is perfect for your wedding reception or event. We serve food all day: Mon - Sat 8am - 9.30pm • Sun 8am - 3pm Large beer garden

www.theangelhotelwoottonbassett.co.uk

hunt bespoke kitchens

&

interiors

01295 721111 • mail@huntbespokekitchens.com Showroom: High Street, Bloxham OX15 4LT

www.huntbespokekitchens.com


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NEW COMPANIES, AMAZING INNOVATIONS, CAMPAIGNS WORTH FIGHTING FOR, AND PEOPLE THAT MATTER

Highlights BEAN TITANS

All you need to know about your morning cup of Joe

A L A N T HO R NTO N PH OTOG R A PHY

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It takes, like, proper skill to make this, don’tcha know?

DATE NIGHT

Where to take your loved one this V-Day Page 54

ALL IN THE MIND

Why thinking about your food could make it taste better… Page 56

Including...

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VENUES ready for love!


LOVE IT OR HATE IT,

Starbucks has got a lot to answer for. Ever since it opened its first UK store in London in 1998, coffee started to become a ‘thing’ – and it’s been growing in popularity ever since. So much so, in fact, that in this country we now guzzle more than 55 million cups of the stuff a day. Yep. Every day. That’s a helluva lot of coffee. And with so many caffeine junkies roaming the streets, it’s not surprising that coffee shops are thriving. But it’s not just a fix that many of us are looking for. We want an experience – the barista, the beans, the whole shebang. And we want to ask questions. Because, just like we might ask where our lamb was raised – or our fish was caught or our vegetables were grown – we also want to know about our coffee. Liz Hogarty, director/owner of Delicacy in Chipping Norton, says she’s noticed people taking an increased interest in their cuppa. “People want to know where the coffee comes from and how it’s made,” she says. “Our coffee is artisan wood-roasted and it’s certified by Rainforest Alliance, and it’s good for us to explain the role of the coffee company – and of the Alliance – in directly helping the coffee-growers and their families.” Provenance is at the heart of the operation at Extract Coffee Roasters, who are based in Bristol and supply many cafes, pubs and restaurants in the Cotswolds with their freshly roasted beans, as well as offering a subscription service for brewing at home. “Since our foundation in 2007, provenance has been an important part of the relationship with our partners and

coffee drinking customers,” says owner Lee Bolam. “Our customers are amazing, and have helped shaped our roastery. We share values and a commitment to making a positive and social environment impact, to make coffee better for all – the consumer, the farmer, the community. That’s what makes us a happy and sustainable business. “Coffee is an incredibly powerful thing. Not only does it have the power to bring people together, it also provides us with an opportunity to have a positive impact on the farms we buy our coffee from. We take this responsibility seriously, and choose coffees that promote good practices on the farms. “This way, we can help provide growing communities with better income and better opportunities in life. We want to create the bridge between these different communities in all that we do, and show people the amazing power of their morning cup.” With customers growing ever more demanding, it’s vital that those serving the coffee really know their stuff. “There’s so much more to a good cup of coffee than people realise,” says Amy Pain from Bank Café in Dursley. “Our staff are very well trained, and understand the importance of getting the milk just right, keeping the machine clean and taking care over every cup, no matter how busy the café gets.” And Rob Broadbent, owner of Lynwood and Co café in Lechlade, agrees. “I was once told the recipe for a coffee was 25 percent coffee bean, 25 percent coffee machine and 50 percent was the person making the

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CAFFEINE

FIX

There’s no such thing as ‘just’ a cup of coffee, as Emma Dance finds out…

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( feature )

coffee,” he says. “It is possible to have the best coffee beans and coffee machine, and still make a terrible coffee! Such is the skill of a barista. The other key is actually loving coffee – training a barista who doesn’t drink coffee will always be an uphill battle, in my opinion.” It’s this level of skill that makes producing a properly kick-ass cup of coffee at home a challenge for many. “We sell our beans, but even using the same ones it’s a challenge to create the same taste at home, because of the machine we use, and our ability and knowledge that lets us create a mellow coffee with no bitterness, every time,” says Liz Hogarty. Extract’s Lee Bolam is seeking to unravel the mysteries for Joe Public, though, and runs home brewing workshops. “To make a great cup of coffee, as simple as it sounds, you should choose your brew method, use recently roasted coffee, freshly ground, and always follow your roaster’s recipe,” he says. “In my opinion, a ‘how to brew’ coffee workshop will change your life – plus, it’s fun and engaging!” Mark Conway agrees that the freshness of the ground can be the difference between success and failure, and at Brew & Bake the beans are ground on demand. “As soon as you open a packet of coffee, the coffee is deteriorating,” he says. “Once you grind the coffee you are adding to this deterioration, so grinding on demand gives a fresher tasting brew.” As we’re learning more, we’re willing to try more too. One thing that’s been coming on strong over the past year or so is the cold brew scene. No-one is more aware of this than Theo Garcia, co-founder of the Cotswolds-based Antler & Bird, which produces Natural Lift, a cold brew coffee which is stocked and sold in farm shops, delis and cafes around the area. “Cold brew coffee is the product of steeping coarsely ground coffee in cold, filtered water for 16 hours or more,” explains Theo. “This process makes a coffee that is up to 60 per cent less acidic than a hot coffee, and this makes the natural sweetness more prominent than usual. The lower acidity produced in the cold brew also makes it much easier for your stomach to digest the drink.” But while cold brews might be gaining in popularity, they’re still waning far

Clockwise from above: Brew & Bake in Cheltenham; Extract's Brew at Home workshop; tasty treats at Lynwood & Co in Lechlade

behind the classic cup. There’s plenty of room for experimentation, though. Although most café owners and baristas agree that flat whites are firmly ensconced at the top of the popularity charts, many of us are spreading our wings further when it comes to the beans, blends and even the level of roast. And, like a professional matchmaker, your friendly barista can help you find your perfect match. “Firstly, it would be a question of whether you drink your coffee black or white, then whether you would like to have a single estate or blended, how strong you would like your coffee, and how much you want to spend,” explains Liz Hogarty. “It’s up to the person working in the coffee shop to ask the questions,” agrees Mark Conway. “‘Do you like milky drinks or Americanos?’, for example. From here we can help you find a new drink.” “Explore, explore, explore!” is Lee Bolam’s tip. “With new seasonal coffee arriving in the roaster every few weeks, the exploration of coffee is accessible to all and easier than ever. We don’t believe that speciality coffee should be intimidating or exclusive. We want

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to hold coffee in that fine balance, somewhere between giving it the respect it deserves as a luxury product, and understanding our responsibility to share this goodness with as many people as we can. We try to do this by making everything we do accessible to everyone, from the real dedicated aficionado to the first-time drinker. “Basically, at Extract we want to get you drinking better coffee. Our vision is to provide world-class coffee that will be a part of your daily life, from that morning ritual to catching up with a friend. If we can make these moments in our day great, and succeed in passing this greatness on to others, we can be proud to call it what we do.”

DIRECTORY Antler & Bird antlerandbird.co.uk Bank Café 01453 543920 Brew & Bake 01242 580875; brewandbake.coffee Delicacy 01608 642843; delicacy.org.uk Extract Coffee Roasters 0117 9554976; extractcoffee.co.uk Lynwood & Co 01367 253707

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Lynwood & Co is an amazing new café now open in the heart of Lechlade, the inspiration of Robert Broadbent and his wife Kats. ‘We are committed to providing Lechlade and surrounding villages a place where people can meet and enjoy amazing coffee, homemade cakes, in house artisan bread and a menu driven by seasonality.’ Open 8am - 4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat, 8am-2pm Sun (Brunch) Lynwood & Co, Apsley House, Market Square, Lechlade, Glouscestershire GL7 3AD 01367 253 707

Local sourced // everything made on site // speciality coffee

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TLY VOTE

OUCESTE

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BEST ENT END E IND P AFE C

SOURDOUGH FLATBREAD NIGHTS

EVERY WEDNESDAY & THURSDAY 5PM - 9PM Tel: 01242 580875 217 Bath Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire www.brewandbake.coffee


Delicious. Tasty. Fresh. We offer a wide range of unusual and tasty products in our deli, alongside our friendly coffee shop where we serve delicious artisan coffee, loose leaf teas and home-made cakes.

Come and visit us! 2 Middle Row, Chipping Norton, OX7 5NH 01608 642843 www.delicacy.org.uk


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THE DRINKS CABINET presented by The Craft Drink Co.

D

ry January is over. Time to celebrate our love of great drinks and what better time than Valentine's Day, the perfect opportunity to up cosy up on a winter’s evening with a loved one and your favourite drink! Here are some of our heart-felt recommendations! 1 Donnington Brewery – BB With its stunning location in the Cotswold Hills, this brewery is one of the prettiest in England and its beers are a fine example of traditional brewing. Donnington's session beer, now available in bottle, is an amber ale with a subtle hop aroma, a good malty flavour and a pleasant bitter finish. Why not walk some of the ‘Donnington Way’ and call in on one or two of their welcoming pubs! 2 BumbleBee – Hard Cider Love cider? Love bees? So does BumbleBee! This cider is made in Somerset using bittersweet apple varieties for a scrumptious taste. Medium dry and lightly sparkling with the aroma of sun

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baked apples from the West Country, a robust, tannic structure and a complex flavour. The perfect partner to hard cheese! 3 Stroud Brewery – Schwarzwälder Cherry Stout The newest addition to Stroud’s range, this rich, sweet, organic stout is conditioned on sour cherries and molasses. Dark roasted malts add a hint of chocolate. This exceptional beer comes in a can. Wickedly indulgent and evocative of a Black Forest gateau! 4 Two Birds – Passion Fruit Vodka The base of this flavoured vodka is a classic combination of distilled barley and sugar beet for a natural, pure and smooth taste. A fruity and exotic drink that is truly mouthwatering. Serve over ice as an aperitif or have fun experimenting at making cocktails. 5 Story Drinks – Red Grape, Blackcurrant & Ginger This lightly sparkling, natural pressé is a delicious and refreshing blend of fruit juice

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and spring water. Gorgeous red grape and blackcurrant are brought to life with a surprising dash of zingy ginger, making this a sophisticated soft drink for grown-ups. 6 Wild Beer Co – Shnoodlepip An incredibly unusual and complex beer made as a collaboration between three brewers, exploring new ideas, techniques, ingredients, combinations and processes. Full body, gentle sweet spiciness, a dry depth with oak undertones and passionfruit character, finished off with tangy hibiscus flowers. Comes in a striking 750ml bottle.

The Craft Drink Co. is a speciality craft drinks distributor, supplying independent businesses with exceptional craft drinks sourced from makers across The Cotswolds and Central England region. For more information, please visit: www.craftdrink.co.uk


The food of love

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As the most romantic day of the year approaches (Valentine’s Day, in case you weren’t absolutely sure), these fine establishments are pushing the boat out to make sure you have a night to remember…. SMALL & INTIMATE THE ANGEL AT BURFORD Witney Street, Burford With cosy corners aplenty, The Angel is just the place for snuggling up with a loved one over a delish meal this V-Day. They’re laying on a special menu for the occasion, including a grand finale of orange Cointreau fondue to share. If there’s a better way to end a romantic meal à deux, we’d like to see it. + theangelatburford.co.uk DOUBLE DELIGHT LYGON ARMS High Street, Broadway There’s not one, but two Valentine’s menus at the Lygon. For more casual dining, head to Barringtons where they’re dishing up three top notch courses, or if you’re really out to impress then the five-course extravaganza in The Great Hall, with sharing dishes as an option for each course, will be what you’re after. After dinner seek out one of the small snugs with roaring fires for a bit of postnoshing relaxation. + lygonarmshotel.co.uk ITALIAN STALLION THE LITTLE ITALIAN BISTRO AT BURFORD HOUSE High Street, Burford When it comes to love and seduction, the Italians have a self-defined rep for prowess. So what, therefore, could be more apt than a sexy Italian on Valentine’s Day? We’re talking food, of course, and The Little Italian knows just what to do to win hearts, with red roses for diners, a strawberry Bellini on arrival and a menu including a well-known aphrodisiac – oysters. + burford-house.co.uk LOVE IS IN THE AIR THE WHARF HOUSE Horseshoe Drive, Over The Wharf House will make sure your evening gets off to a sparkling start with a glass of Three Choirs sparkling wine or Kir Royal, accompanied by canapés to whet the appetite.

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This is followed by a splendid five-course feast, with dishes including goat’s cheese mousse, Champagne and strawberry sorbet, venison rolled in walnuts and a rather impressive assiette of desserts. + thewharfhouse.co.uk

LOVE STORIES THE VAULT NAILSWORTH George Street, Nailsworth Sharing platters, a jazz singer and The Vault’s trademark cool vibes makes it the destination this V-Day. It’s also a doubly important day, because The Vault is launching its new private dining space, The Bullion Room, which can host up to ten people. To mark the occasion, customers are being asked to share their own love story – with a chance to win the privilege of being the first diners in The Bullion Room. The Valentine’s menu promises “an aphrodisiac in every bite”, and is available for a whole week from February 11-18. No excuses to miss out, then. + thevaultnailsworth.co.uk

EXCEPTIONALLY GIFTED THE INN AT FOSSEBRIDGE Fossebridge, near Cheltenham The Inn at Fossebridge is making sure you and your loved one will be well and truly spoilt this Valentine’s Day. Not only will everyone be treated to a venue full of historic charm and a wonderful four-course meal, but also a glass of Champagne on arrival, and there will be a present for your partner as well. If you want to make a whole night of it, then there’s a special deal on rooms, too. Perfect. + fossebridgeinn.co.uk

A TOUCH OF SPARKLE THREE CHOIRS VINEYARD Newent, Gloucestershire Set in the rolling Gloucestershire countryside, with views right across the vineyard, Three Choirs is romantic at any time of the year. To mark V-Day, though, a special cocktail menu has been created, starring Three Choir’s very own sparkling wine, natch, and with a choice of beautiful rooms and lodges to stay in, there’s absolutely no excuse not to indulge. + three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk

SPOILT FOR CHOICE CORINIUM HOTEL AND RESTAURANT Gloucester Street, Cirencester Yes, the Corinium has got all the traditionally romantic elements for a V-Day meal, with candles and complimentary Prosecco, but you won’t find a set menu here. Instead, couples will have the whole dinner menu to choose from, as well as some rather special specials which are being cooked up for the occasion. + coriniumhotel.co.uk

SHARE & SHARE ALIKE MONTY’S BRASSERIE AND COCKTAIL BAR St George’s Road, Cheltenham Sharing is the name of the game at Monty’s this V-Day (or for a whole week, in fact, since the special menu is running from Friday 10-18 February). Think Scottish mussels, rib eye and lobster thermidor, chateaubriand and dark chocolate baked Alaska, and even sharing cocktails. Don’t worry, though, if sharing’s not your thing, as the full à la carte will be on offer too. Oh, and there will live music in the bar at weekends, too, to help set the mood. + cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/ the-george

BEST OF BRITISH BISLEY HOUSE Middle Street, Stroud Bisley House is known for its use of seasonal ingredients, and head chef Rorie Scott has integrated British seasonality into the V-Day menu with dishes such as pulled pork croquettes with kohlrabi slaw and smoked apple purée, braised shin of beef and rhubarb, and brown sugar Eton mess. Look out for romantically designed cocktails, and couples will be treated to amuse bouches and petit fours on the house. + bisleyhouse.co.uk

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CANDLELIT DINNERS THE MAYTIME INN Asthall, Burford A cosy Cotswolds pub, a roaring fire, a restaurant full of candles and roses on the tables – if there’s a more romantic setting for a V-Day dinner then we’d like to know about it! The Maytime is going all out to create just the right atmosphere for loved-up couples, but they’re keen to encourage bigger groups, too. Book a table of four or more and you’ll get 10 percent off the bill. Double date, anyone? + themaytime.com GOOD OLD FASHIONED ROMANCE THE CHURCHILL ARMS Paxford, Chipping Campden The Churchill Arms has come up with a stunning menu to celebrate this Valentine’s Day, with dishes such as seared scallops with bacon and sweetcorn, Todenham venison with truffle mash and salted caramel tart with Baileys ice cream. There’s also a choice of sharing menus for each course to add to the atmosphere, and everyone will be treated to a glass of fizz and arancini on arrival. Lush. + churchillarms.co DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY DE VERE COTSWOLD WATER PARK Lake 6, Spine Road East If you really want to impress, then the romantic Valentine’s Dinner Dance package at the De Vere Cotswold Water Park is guaranteed to wow. The evening’s entertainment begins with canapés and sparkling wine, followed by a decadent five-course meal accompanied by a harpist, and finishing with a disco where you and your loved one can dance the night away before retiring to your room. And that’s not all. You also get breakfast the following morning, and use of the leisure and spa facilities for the duration of your stay. + phcompany.com/de-vere/ cotswold-water-park-hotel


Mains

Unwind yOur Mind We all know cooking can be relaxing – we kick back in the kitchen and unwind with a glass of wine. Our senses are stimulated with the smells, tastes and sounds it creates. Jules Taylor explores how mindfulness can magnify your culinary experiences.

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magine, for a moment, yourself in your kitchen. On the worktop in front of you lies a bounty of all your favourite ingredients, fresh and aromatic. You are alone and have plenty of time. There is no need to rush into anything; you take a while to admire the food before you, observe its colours, shapes, aromas and textures. Your mind rejects all thoughts of the past and concerns of the future, only the present exists. You are completely absorbed in creating a perfect dish. Sounds idyllic, doesn’t it? Perhaps too good to be true? But this type of meditative moment is easy to achieve, and is even becoming quite a trend – as practicing ‘mindfulness’ can apply to almost every pastime or hobby. Mindfulness is neither new or specialist; in fact, it’s almost mainstream. But it’s not just another buzzword for marketing types to hook their campaigns onto; mindfulness has history, is well researched and has proven psychological and physical health benefits. Its roots are in Eastern meditation, particularly Buddhism. But you don’t need to be spiritual to practice it. According to renowned scientist and writer, Jon Kabat-Zinn, who brought mindfulness to America in the 1980s, mindfulness is “to dwell in stillness and to observe without reacting and without

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judging.” He also advises: “The best way to capture moments is to pay attention. This is how we cultivate mindfulness. It means being awake. It means knowing what you are doing.” But how does all this relate to cooking? Well, experts recommend that – like yoga or pilates, for example – in order to become good at mindfulness, you have to practice. Practising daily means incorporating mindfulness into your everyday routines, and cooking and eating are activities everyone does. Ian Banyard runs an outfit called Cotswold Natural Mindfulness (cotswoldnaturalmindfulness.co.uk), and believes that applying mindfulness to food preparation has a whole range of important advantages. “I like to think of mindfulness as a super ingredient that enhances everything we do by up to 25 percent,” he says. “Mindfulness is just another word for really taking care and paying attention on purpose to what we are doing and what really matters, in the present moment. The best way to appreciate the benefits of applying mindfulness to cooking and eating is to imagine the consequences of cooking a meal and then eating it mindlessly. The mindless cook would no doubt have a very disorganised and hazardous kitchen. There would be mistakes, missing ingredients, guesswork, miscalculations, and accidents, possibly resulting in an overcooked/undercooked, unpalatable meal, served too early or too late. “So, some of the benefits of cooking a meal mindfully would be the opposite: the meal is ready on time, it tastes wonderful, everyone raves about it for weeks, you feel proud of yourself and there’s the bonus of hardly any clearing up to do afterwards because you prepared the meal with cleaning up in mind.” But mindful cooking isn’t just for the home – many professional chefs cook mindfully without even knowing it. After all, a chef creates a feast for the senses, aiming to delight, satisfy and even surprise their customers through food that looks amazing, smells enticing, is delicious to taste and interesting to eat, as well as being nutritious and satisfying. That’s a lot to ask, and is only achievable if the chef is single-minded in their selection of ingredients, and their methods of preparation and presentation. Honing skills and senses to be able to select the finest ingredients

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and deliver the best on a plate means clearing the mind of distraction, focusing on the task in hand and keeping a cool demeanor in the kitchen. Practicing just five minutes of meditation before a long shift can place even the most fiery of chefs into a calmer mood! And mindfulness techniques can be applied equally well to the act of eating. “Eating mindfully is a joy,” says Ian. “Think of it as a multi-sensory experience. Look at what you are about to eat, breath in the aromas, hold it on your tongue and then move it around your mouth using the 10,000 taste buds to savor each mouthful. Chew your food and notice the different consistency, texture and changes in taste as you do. When you eventually swallow, see if you can feel the food moving down towards your stomach and notice how long the taste lingers in your mouth before taking the next mouthful.” Steve Brown from Daylesford Cookery School (daylesford.com) agrees. “We live in a world that is often dictated by deadlines, emails, phones and the general feeling of being constantly rushed, so our food and eating habits often take a back seat in our list of daily priorities,” he says. “Mindful eating can be interpreted and applied in many ways, but we at Daylesford see it principally as way of thinking a little about our food, what has gone into it, how it has been made and generally taking the time to enjoy it. “Taking physical time is the best way to apply mindfulness to both cooking and eating. How often do we hurry through cooking, cutting corners and thinking, ‘That will have to do’? It’s such an easy mistake to make! However, slowing down to consider the quality of the ingredients, reflecting on how important their nourishment is for our bodies and, finally, really relaxing and enjoying them is a wonderful way to become more connected with your food. Studies also show that you take more nutrients from food that you really enjoy, so taking that extra time could really be worth it. “An article that we read recently suggested that the average British worker took a mere 30 seconds to

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consume their lunch, which is just incredible! With no time to salivate and no time to chew, it becomes so difficult to digest our food that it does us no good at all. Step back, close your laptop, put your phone away and enjoy your food – those emails will wait! “The benefits of mindful eating are plentiful; a better understanding and appreciation of your food and its origins mean that your shopping habits will often take an automatic and positive transition towards a healthier and more balanced diet. Not only this, but by eating more slowly you will feel fuller faster and for longer, so you are less likely to want to snack between meals. By enjoying a meal in quiet surroundings you can find a little more peace in an increasingly busy world.”

Jules Taylor is editor of Project Calm magazine. For more information, go here: https://issuu.com/immediatemediaco/ docs/wlc_27_calm_sampler


WINERY, RESTAURANT & ROOMS

A C OU N T RY P U B I N T H E H E A RT OF T H E C OTS WO L D S

Situated in the village of Oakridge Lynch, we serve fresh home cooked food & real ales.

Award-winning English wine Visit our Gloucestershire vineyard for Tours & Tasting, Restaurant & Rooms or visit our Hampshire vineyard an ideal location for Weddings & Events.

GLOUCESTERSHIRE • HAMPSHIRE Newent Gloucestershire GL18 1LS T: 01531 890223 | | E: info@threechoirs.com

www.three-choirs-vineyards.co.uk

The Quoin – Our Self Catering cottage is ideal for overnight stays and weekends away in the heart of the Cotswolds.

The Butchers Arms | Oakridge Lynch | Stroud | Glos | GL6 7NZ Tel: 01285 760371 | alison@butchersarmsoakridge.com

www.butchersarmsoakridge.com

Food Fanatics Food Hall

Stocking a range of local, regional and international foods. From every day necessities to that little indulgence. Whilst you are browsing, why not stop for a sweet or savoury snack in our coffee shop and soak up the surroundings.  01451 850392  hello@hollowbottom.com The Hollow Bottom Guiting Power Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL54 5UX

OPEN EVERY DAY 12 North Street, Winchcombe, Gloucestershire GL54 5LH

01242 604466


Afters NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

This kinda dish makes us happy as a clam!

Highlights HOUSE PARTY

Partying at the exclusive Dewsall Court Page 60

BOTTLE IT

Chowing down at The Bottle of Sauce Page 62

FEELING BLUE

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Checking out the new look Blue Boar in Witney Page 64

Including…

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HOURS OF COOKING (for a pork belly!)


(HIDDEN SUPPER CLUBS)

Af ters

DEWSALL COURT

Emma Dance reluctantly shares the secrets of the none-more-hidden Dewsall Court…

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( feature )

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o here’s my problem. I don’t really want to tell you about Dewsall Court. Not because it’s not good – it is, it’s ace. But because it’s the kind of delicious secret that I’m not really sure I want to share. For this piece to continue, I need you to promise that you’re not going to tell anyone else about it. Deal? You’re never going to just ‘come across’ Dewsall Court. Tucked away in a little corner of Herefordshire, reached via a tangle of lanes (to call them ‘roads’ feels like it would be pushing it a bit – even in my tiny car, happening across anything coming the other way could have had some interesting results), you’ve got to be looking for it. It’s worth the hunt, though, because this is the kind of place the phrase ‘hidden gem’ was made for. Once a family home, it’s now mostly used as an exclusive-use venue for weddings and other such shindigs (Ellie Goulding has thrown parties here), but when it’s not being hired out, it also hosts its own events. Indeed, we were here for one of their annual Furs, Fire and Ice parties. There’s around three every Christmas, and they’re gaining a reputation locally as a must-go event of the winter social season. It seemed only proper that we should see what all the fuss is about.

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As we pulled into the car park we were greeted by Emma, one of the event managers, who quickly ushered us out of the cold and into the warm and cosy kitchen, where a log fire was blazing, coffee was brewing, and a tempting pile of chocolate chip cookies was just waiting to be devoured. After warming up we headed to our room for the night, to prepare for the evening’s festivities. Turns out the party itself was not taking place in the house at all, but in the Wainhouse Barn, a mere 30-second jaunt across the lawn away. Our path was lit by burning torches (there’s your fire) and, as we approached the entrance, we were greeted by a flurry of snow (and there’s the ice) to set the wintery mood, swiftly followed by a mulled sloe gin cocktail made with the Chase gin produced at the distillery down the road. The barn had been beautifully decorated with greenery adorning the wooden beams, furry throws (and the furs complete the trio!) and dozens of candles bathing the room in a soft, warm light. And, with a band playing while everyone mingled, it was a dream setting for a winter party. The food at Dewsall is always focused around showcasing local ingredients, and our night was no exception. As you’d expect for this kind of event, there was a set menu, this one kicking off with a sweet and earthy vodka-spiked Borsch. Next up was potted smoked trout and brown shrimps. The chunks of salty fish, the sweet shrimp and the rich butter made for a heavenly ménage a trois that had me coming back for more until not a scrap remained. Ewyas Harold lamb, accompanied by blackened new potatoes, kale compote and confit onions, made up the main

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course. It might not have been the most Instagrammable plate of food I’d ever seen, but boy, was it tasty. The meat was tender as you like with a crunchy, smoky crust, almost crackling-like in texture, which paired marvellously with the sweet onions. I’d clocked the dessert – a hot chocolate and sloe gin pudding – earlier in the evening, and I’d been looking forward to it ever since. Reader, it did not disappoint. The centre was perfectly molten (not necessarily easy when you’re catering on a larger scale), a cascade of chocolate sauce oozing out as I cut through the soft, moist casing, and the chef had certainly not skimped on the gin, as it had a proper boozy kick to it. This food isn’t fine dining, but I’m not sure you’d really want it to be. The point of Dewsall Court is that it’s fun and relaxed and homely, so it seems right that the food should reflect that feeling, and it does that very well. In fact, it does everything very well. So well that I again implore you not to tell anyone else about it, okay? ✱ DEWSALL COURT, Dewsall, Hereford HR2 8DA; 01432 355058; dewsall.com


( G R E AT P U B S )

THE BOTTLE OF SAUCE What do you want from a modern pub? Emma Dance wants great food, good beer and an unpretentious attitude. Job done.

Af ters

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nce upon a time, a pub meant real ales, chicken in a basket, sometimes a resident dog, often a roaring log fire – and always a row of locals propping up the bar. There probably wasn’t a wine list. There definitely weren’t cocktails. These days, though, the word ‘pub’ covers anything from sleek rural retreats boasting Michelin stars to hip town centre hangouts reminiscent of American dive bars. With its low lighting and urban-chic décor, Cheltenham’s The Bottle of Sauce definitely falls into the latter category, and it’s got the menu to match. Think burgers, wings and wood-fired pizzas and you’re there. Forget about starters followed by mains, or any of that sort of formality. This is deffo an order-as-much-as-youcan-fit-on-the-table-and-tuck-in affair, so that’s what we did. We turned our attention first to the Napalm chicken wings. They were cooked to perfection, with the meat just falling off the bone. With a name like that I was expecting the chilli heat to smack me right in the chops, but instead there was just hint of heat tickling the back of the throat, and exactly the right amount of sweetness. Across the table, husband quickly tucked into his Al Capone burger – a ground beef patty with spicy n’duja relish, American cheese, pickled red onions and chipotle mayo (there should be lettuce too, but I’m yet to convince him of the virtues of salad). The burger was moist and meaty – just as it should

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be, with enough of each topping to taste it but not overburden the bun. There’s no doubt that it’s a great burger, but at nine quid (without fries), it’s gotta be one of the priciest in town. (Head down on Mondays, though, and the burgers are half price, which is a total bargain.) Talking of fries, of course we ordered some, laden with melted Fontina cheese and Cotswold Gold truffle oil, and damn, were they good. The Bottle of Sauce makes a big deal about its pizza dough, which is given a slow rise of at least 48 hours before being blast cooked in the wood-fired oven “to lock flavour and moisture into the crust” (according to the blurb on the menu). I’d heard great things about this from people who’d tried them first hand, so it was pretty much a given that I’d be chowing down on pizza. I chose the ‘Nduja (tomato, mozzarella, basil and Calabrese ‘Nduja sausage), which did not disappoint with plenty of toppings piled onto a crust that was, indeed, flavoursome – and not at all dry. On the advice of staff I’d also ordered a lettuce wedge salad (gotta get those veggies in somewhere, right?), which was infinitely more decadent than it sounded, with oodles of blue cheese and buttermilk slathered over the crisp leaves. By rights we shouldn’t have had room for a dessert, but in for a penny in for a pound, and all that. My blood orange posset with Cointreau and rosemary shortbread was fresh and zingy, tempered by just the right amount of creaminess. Okay, so the rosemary in the shortbread didn’t come through quite as strongly as I might have liked, but otherwise there were no complaints from me.

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Husband’s millionaire short-pot was ridiculously rich, with a thick teeth-sticking layer of salted caramel sandwiched between a crunchy biscuit crumble and decadent chocolate ganache. After a lighter meal it would have been a joy, but following the feast we’d just devoured it was perhaps a step too far, and he had to admit defeat before the end. The Bottle of Sauce runs many promotions throughout the week, including After Work Drinking with cut price beers, wines and cocktails between 5 and 7pm, half price burgers on Mondays, half price pizzas on Tuesday to Friday lunchtimes, and a discount on takeaways if you order at the bar. There’s a courtyard, which will no doubt be packed come summer, plus a games room and a dining area, which becomes a dancefloor for late night partying at weekends. No, this ain’t how pubs used to be. But we’re not complaining. ✱ THE BOTTLE OF SAUCE, 7 Ambrose Street, Cheltenham GL50 3LH; 01242 256156; thebottleofsauce.com


Af ters

(NEW LOOK BOOZERS)

THE BLUE BOAR

The Blue Boar in Witney began 2017 with a brand new look and a brand new menu. Emma Dance went along to put it through its paces

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ith its position in the centre of Witney, right on the Market Square, The Blue Boar should be a pub that’s right at the heart of the community. And if the busy bar and buzzing restaurant that we found, even on a cold Wednesday night, is anything to go by, it’s become exactly that. According to the ever-socharming manager, Giancarlo, the Boar’s popularity has been boosted by a recent refurb, which has seen the addition of a wood-fired pizza oven. One look at the menu and it’s easy to see the appeal – with sections devoted to pizzas, pasta, light bites, meats cooked in the Josper oven and ‘home comforts’ (not to mention nibbles, starters, sharers and desserts!), there’s something for everyone. Although, the menu is so large

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that if you’re indecisive it can feel a little overwhelming. Fortunately, the staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and we soon enlist Giancarlo to help guide us through the maze. Concerned that we might get peckish while we’re pondering, he recommends that we share a burrata mozzarella, tomato and basil baked flatbread. It’s a good call. Sitting atop a freshly-baked pizza base smothered in a sweet and tangy tomato sauce is an authentically imperfect white sphere of the soft Italian cheese. We break the mozzarella casing, releasing the almost-sweet creamy centre and practically dive in, polishing off every last morsel. Between mouthfuls we peruse the menu further, asking advice from Giancarlo and, soon, head chef Joseph too, who’s come out of the kitchen to give his input. They both agree that I should begin with the hot smoked salmon, so I’m sold. It’s got the rich and smoky flavour of regular smoked salmon, but the hot smoking has given it the firmer, meatier texture of cooked salmon. A wedge of roasted celeriac is not an accompaniment I’ve ever had with this fish, but it definitely works, and the addition of kale and pumpkin seed pesto, capers and horseradish crème fraiche add a lightness and cut through the oily flesh marvellously. Across the table, B is devouring the salt and pepper panko calamari, which she proclaims is some of the best she’s ever eaten, while N’s Gambas Pil Pil (sautéed king prawns in a garlic, chilli, white wine and tomato sauce) are sweet and succulent, and although he laments a certain lack of punch from the

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promised chilli, it definitely doesn’t stop him clearing the plate. My main of pork belly (Joseph’s choice) is slow-roasted in local ale and English mustard for 12 hours, and the result is wonderfully tender meat which gives way at just the slightest touch of the fork and almost melts in the mouth, while a sliver of crackling is just the right side of tooth-breakingly crunchy. It’s proof that you don’t need to throw a whole load of fancy techniques at a dish to produce something drool-worthy. B’s sea bass and chorizo special goes down a storm, while N’s lamb with butternut squash and chestnuts (also a special) is comfort food at its finest. We’re full, but there’s no chance we’re missing out on dessert. We’ve convinced B that a banoffee sundae will be a light option (“it’s basically fruit with a bit of ice cream and a drizzle of toffee sauce…”), but it’s an obvious lie when a tower of sweet treats arrives. Yes, there’s the promised banana, ice cream and sauce, but there’s also chocolate brownie, crushed biscuit and mascarpone cream. (It’s the kind of lie I’m happy to live with.) N’s raspberry and lemon posset (another special) is tangy and refreshing, while my tiramisu has a proper whack of coffee and hits the right balance between bitter and sweet. It’s the perfect finale. The Blue Boar might be carving itself out a role as a real hub of the town, but it’s well worth making the trip even if you’re not a lucky local. Whether you’re after a quick pint, breakfast, a light lunch or a three (or more!) course extravaganza, it’s got it covered. And if, like me, you over-indulge there are even comfortable rooms to slide into before you slip into a food coma. Sweet.

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✱ THE BLUE BOAR, 28 Market Square, Witney OX28 6BH; 01993 776353; blueboarwitney.co.uk


Little black book

Ryan Kelly, co-owner of Thistledown Farm and Fieldfare Café, shares his favourite foodie hotspots…

Quick!

Now add this little lot to your contacts book James Gourmet; jamesgourmetcoffee.com Henry’s at Woefuldane Organic Dairy, Minchinhampton GL6 9BW; 01453 886855 Raffles Fine Wines, Nailsworth GL6 0DU; raffles-wines.com The Crown, Frampton Mansell GL6 8JG; thecrowninn-cotswolds.co.uk The Little George, Stroud GL5 3DP; stroudmicropub.co.uk Capreolus Distillery; capreolusdistillery.co.uk William’s Food Hall & Oyster Bar, Nailsworth GL6 0BL; williamsfoodhall.co.uk TEA on the WAY, Clun SY7 8NZ; 07795 275557 The Green Café, Ludlow SY8 1EG; thegreencafe.co.uk Stroud Brewery, Stroud GL5 2BU; stroudbrewery.co.uk Star Anise, Stroud GL5 1QG; staraniseartscafe.com The Pavilion, Stroud GL5 2TL; thepavilionstroud.co.uk The Passage to India, Nailsworth GL6 0DU; thepassagetoindia.com Thai Basil, Thornbury BS35 2AH; thaibasilthornbury.com Baked by Beth, Stroud GL5 3SS; bakedbybeth.co.uk Coffee & Crumb, Littledean GL14 3NH; coffeeandcrumb.co.uk Cococaravan; cococaravan.co.uk Siena Pizza Co.; sienapizza.co Bison Kitchen; bisonkitchen.co.uk Hania Cheeses, Stroud GL6 8BE; 01453 884320

BEST BREW? The combination of coffee beans from James Gourmet and our own La Marzocco espresso machine means that coffee elsewhere in the area has been slightly ruined for me. That said, Henry’s in Minchinhampton do a very good flat white.

HIDDEN GEM? Okay, so it’s in

FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? The Farmers’ Market in Stroud is great for veg, especially Newark Farm. Betsy and Steve have brilliant organic stuff at unbeatable prices and they’re best comedy double act in town.

ONE TO WATCH? Salt Bakehouse,

BEST WINE MERCHANT? You always get knowledgeable and friendly service from Marcus at Raffles in Nailsworth. SUNDAY LUNCH? My favourite local

pub for food is probably The Crown at Frampton Mansell. It’s a lovely old building with great views and friendly staff, and the food is delicious. (I still dream about the trio of lamb I had there six years ago.) QUICK PINT? There’s a new micro pub

in Stroud, The Little George, which has a good selection of drinks and a nice, intimate atmosphere.

CHEEKY COCKTAIL? Anything mixed with spirits from Capreolus Distillery: their award-winning Garden Tiger gin makes an unbeatable G&T! We host tastings and talks from Capreolus, which are unmissable if you’ve an interest in spirits. POSH NOSH? You can’t beat a long

seafood lunch at William’s Food Hall and Oyster Bar – although it’s easy to spend far, far too much.

FOOD ON THE GO? In London I usually stay on Edgware Road, partly because my grandma lives there, but mainly for the amazing Lebanese kebabs! ALFRESCO FEASTING? We barbecue two or three times a week in summer, so we eat around the garden fire pit or use the clay oven when the café is closed.

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Shropshire, but TEA on the WAY is the epitome on a hidden gem. It’s almost worth the drive just for that and then lunch at The Green Café in Ludlow – which is one of the best cafés in the country, in my opinion! who supply our breads and patisserie. Exceptional sourdoughs from the BIA Baker of the Year!

WITH FRIENDS? Stroud Brewery is a great place to meet up for excellent beer, Velo Bakery pizzas and live music. COMFORT FOOD? Star Anise café in

Stroud, because I really like their toasted sandwiches. It’s very child-friendly, and is usually full of friendly faces.

WITH THE FAMILY? We have two kids under two, so anywhere with wipe-clean surfaces and plenty of space! BEST CURRY? We cook a lot of curries at home. If we go for a curry locally, we go to The Pavillion or The Passage to India, or Thai Basil in Thornbury. Curry is definitely one of the things I look forward to when visiting a city! SOMETHING SWEET? Baked by Beth for tiffin, and Coffee & Crumb for cinnamon and apple cake – both supply our café. Chocolate from Cococaravan is raw and vegan and very tasty too! TOP STREET FOOD? Most of the food

at Stroud Farmers’ Market is great, especially the falafel and raclette stalls and Girish’s Indian food. Elsewhere, the Sienna Pizza Co. van and Bison Kitchen are also really good.

BEST FOR CHEESE? Ken Hania of Hania

Cheeses is a great cheesemonger – and very knowledgeable and friendly.

✱ thistledown.org.uk

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14 February 2017 LIVE JAZZ COCKTAILS & SHARING PLATES

AN APHRODISIAC IN EVERY BITE

CELEBRATE LOVE IN STYLE

IN OUR NEW PRIVATE DINING SPACE – THE BULLION ROOM We are Celebrating Love and launching our private dining space, The Bullion Room, by offering A BOTTLE OF BUBBLY and use of the room FREE OF CHARGE to the couple or group who send us the best “Celebrating Love Story” giving the reason they should be the first to dine in this beautiful new space at The Vault.

Send your story to events@thevaultnailsworth.co.uk

Waterloo House • Nailsworth • GL6 0AQ • 01453 833666

www.thevaultnailsworth.co.uk


Crumbs Cotswolds – issue 51