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Magic Puddings Recipes! Advice! Baking kit !

A little slice of foodie heaven Doctor, doctor! I’ve come out in spots like cherries on a cake! Ah, you must have analogy.



Holiday Foodie


FUN with t he kids

Having a moment!

3 fabulous restaurants 5 wonderful recipe books 3 cool kitchen design shops


Beautiful beetroot

Grow it! Pick it! Cook it! Eat it!

cherrY Y £3 where sold


Prey lile ones that we adore

(How we wish that you were ours)

It’s all pud!


super-sw recipes eet From t he egion’s best COr OKS

CHERRY, OH BABY HANDS UP IF you’re proud of your pudding stomach? Most of us have one, right? The little internal sack that opens up at the end of a slap-up meal, no matter how full your main stomach is, to allow us to squeeze in dessert. Apparently it operates when the pleasure centres in our brain override the chemical signals from our tummy, and, in a way, I’m glad that it does, as puddings these days are pretty fun. They’re sociable too – no one wants a virtuous guest on the end of their dinner party table who’s strong enough to resist. Puddings have definitely moved on a pace or two since the likes of the good old spotted dick, raspberry fool and Eton mess. Now they proudly celebrate British produce, are fabulously deconstructed, and even incorporate healthy veg or herbs like rosemary and thyme. This issue we’ve been asking top chefs in the region to identify modern trends (p51) to help you bring your own desserts up to speed. Not being a chocoholic (I know, what’s wrong with me?), I always plump for a fruity pud, and am pretty excited to see sweeter seasonal fruits now coming onto menus – strawberries, blackberries and, my favourite, cherries. Who knows where they got their erotic connotations from (read more about that on p8), but the sweet, fleshy fruit definitely gets me going. And I hope it does you, too, as we have a sumptuous cherry pudding recipe for you on p9. Enjoy!

Charlie Lyon, Editor


Crumbs is now an app! You can read all editions of Crumbs – Bath+Bristol, Cotswolds and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Scan the QR codes opposite, search ‘Crumbs’ or go to APPLE


Table of Contents

NO. 44 AUGUST 2016












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MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800

STARTERS 8 HERO INGREDIENT Why we’ve got a cherry crush 10 OPENINGS ETC New joints, new menus, new dates for your diary


08 Indulgent cherry pavlovas by Katriona MacGregor 21 Tasty spanakopita from Alexandra Stratou 51 Cranberry and almond bites, by Stephen Tarling 56 Gooseberry fool from Cogges Kitchen

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© All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month there were even more fiestas for the Crumbs team! The MediaClash summer bash, where we dined like kings at Clayton’s Kitchen in the Porter, Bath; Bath Boules (thanks again, Ping Coombes, for your buns); and, a distant memory now, Cheltenham Food & Drink Festival 2016. Arriba!

16 TRIO Three top local companies who’ll deck out your kitchen


Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens

MAINS 51 SWEET DREAMS Pudding trends to take your meals to the next level 56 SCHOOL’S OUT! Your 10-point action plan for a foodie hols with your lil’ ’uns


26 Perfect pizza dough and toppings from Ben Bullen 28 A punchy Indian stir fry from Navina Bartlett 30 Enjoy Natasha Corrett’s sweet summer pudding 32 Over Farm’s sumptuous strawberry cloud cake 34 A tasty summer beetroot soup from Kathy Slack

KITCHEN ARMOURY 41 HOUSE CALL Have a peek at this cool and kooky Thornbury kitchen 46 WANT LIST We’re lusting after buys that aid your baking


New & notable restaurants, cafés, bars 60 The Churchill Arms 62 The Painswick 64 Jesse’s Bistro PLUS

66 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Owners of The Grape Escape share their fave foodie spots


Aber jOlly gOOd time!

AH, ABERGAVENNY FOOD FEST – it’s a giant as food festivals go, but one that feels like a right local celebration too. Despite being located on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, people flock from all over the UK to see the markets, muses, music and general foodie mayhem at what’s often touted as one of the best food events on the UK’s calendar. This year heavyweights Monica Galetti, Cyrus Todiwala and Jose Pizarro headline the show, cooking up storms at the Borough Theatre. There’ll be the legendary meat market and night market, plus an array of street stalls, workshops, talks and book signings. This year there’ll also be two nights of music, dancing and food: the Street Food Supper Party and Cabaret will kick off on Friday with folk, blues, jazz and swing, then things really come alive at Saturday’s Party at the Castle, where you can dance the night away alongside the chefs, with a host of international food to fuel you through into the small hours. You can buy tickets now (from just £9) for the event, which takes place on 17-18 September. ✱



Hero Ingredients

Cherries One of our most innuendoladen fruits is also one of the most delicious, and most decadent. Happily, it’s secretly more saint than sinner‌



here’s something very naughty about the cherry, those plump little globes in their glorious glossy red – wouldn’t Genesis make much more sense, we can’t help but wonder, if these are what had tempted Eve, rather than a boring old apple? There’s an unchaste quality to their taste and texture that turns all thoughts south, to the extent that Googling ‘cherry’ has become something of a risky game. The ironic thing, of course, is that they’re not really naughty at all. In fact, some claim, they’re our most sensual superfood. Sweet cherries mostly show up on the dessert trolly, of course: in cakes and muffins; in trifles and mousses; and, of course, in the famous cherry pie, so beloved of eccentric FBI agent Dale Cooper of Twin Peaks fame. An even more iconic cherry-based dessert, though, has to be the classic Black Forest gâteau, with its layers of rich dark chocolate, cloud-like cream and kirsch liqueur. Alternatively, you can just eat cherries on their own – perhaps then attempting to tie a knot in the stalk with your tongue, Sherilyn Fenn-style – or stir them into a Greek-style yoghurt. But that’s not all they’re good for. While sweet cherries love the company of citrus fruits and cinnamon, chocolate and cream, peaches and plums, hazelnuts and almonds, their sour cousins give a thrilling sweet-tart zip to any number of Middle Eastern dishes, and make an excellent foil to fatty meats. Cherry sauce is a classic with duck, of course, and the fruit goes well with things like venison or pork too. And that’s not all, for numerous cocktails (the Manhattan! The Pina Colada!) aren’t considered complete until topped with a preserved and sweetened maraschino cherry. (Okay, so these Frankenstein’s monsters of the fruit world have few health benefits – they’re heaving with sugar, for one thing – but they’re rarely eaten in great numbers, so it’s easy to forgive ’em.) Cherries have, of course, been around forever. Certainly, the sweet cherry, Prunus avium, seems to have been eaten across most of Europe, western Asia and bits of north Africa since prehistoric times, and we know for certain that the Romans were growing

them by 72BC, brought to the city from the south coast of the Black Sea, in modern-day Turkey. Indeed, Turkey and Iran remain two of the world’s top cherry-growing nations, though commercial orchards pepper Italy, Spain and France too. Closer to home, Henry VIII liked them so much when he’d tasted them in Flanders that he had some trees brought over to England, where they were planted in Kent (and, indeed, became part of the coat of arms of Sittingbourne). Naturally, plenty of myth and fable have grown up around the cherry and its spectacularly blossomed trees. Indeed, so into cherry trees are the Japanese that the state of their brief flowerings are a staple of TV news. Elsewhere, an unsubstantiated anecdote about first American President George Washington (that he cut down his dad’s favourite cherry tree, and on being questioned admitted he did it with a jaunty, “I can’t tell a lie, Pa”) either illustrates his extreme honesty, his extreme thoughtlessness, or both. Cherries remain relatively expensive – thank a combination of high demand, short season (in the UK, six weeks from mid-July to the end of August), how easily they can be damaged by rain and hail, how hard the trees are to keep healthy, a high vulnerability to greedy birds, and that hand-picking is favoured to avoid damage to both fruit and trees. They’re worth all this, though, not just for their delicious taste and licentious trappings, but because they’re actually extremely good for us. High in fibre, low in calories, with plenty of vitamin C, potassium, carotenoids and more, they’re credited with protection against dementia, stokes, cancer, hypertension, diabetes and cardiovascular disease, not to mention aiding with muscle soreness and a sound night’s sleep. Now, there’s a caveat to all this – as the good stuff is in fairly low percentages, you’d have to eat an awful lot of cherries to get much of it, and in doing so you’d have also consumed a ton of sugar – but it’s hardly a deal breaker. Go easy on the cherries, but by all means eat them and enjoy them. There are few debauched delights that have quite as much angel in them as these little devils.



3 egg whites 200g caster sugar 1 tsp cornflour 1 tsp white wine vinegar a few drops of vanilla extract 50g pistachios, toasted 500g fresh cherries 2 tbsp kirsch 300ml double cream 1 tbsp icing sugar 75g dark chocolate METHOD

– Preheat the oven to 150C/300F/gas mark 2. – In a large bowl, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Whisk 170g of the sugar into the whites, a tablespoon or so at a time, until fully incorporated. Then whisk in the cornflour, vinegar and vanilla. Roughly chop the toasted pistachio nuts and fold all but a handful of them into the meringue. – Spoon onto a lined baking tray to form six small circular nests or one large pavlova, making a shallow well in the top of each. Turn the oven down to 130C/260F/gas mark ½ and bake the pavlovas for one hour, or until they easily peel away from the baking paper. – While the pavlovas are cooking, de-stone the cherries and place in a small saucepan with the remaining sugar and kirsch. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 3-5 minutes until the cherries have softened slightly and are sitting in a light syrup. Set aside to cool. – Whisk the cream and icing sugar together to form soft peaks. When the meringues are completely cool, top each with the whipped cream. Follow this with a scattering of cherries and a drizzle of kirsh syrup. Melt the chocolate and drizzle messily over each pavlova using a teaspoon. Finish with a sprinkling of pistachio nuts and serve!



Massive congrats to Andrew Scott from Restaurant 56 at Sudbury House Hotel in Faringdon for being selected to be part of 2016’s Great British Menu. He battled through a tough selection process to be chosen as one of three to represent the ‘central region’ in the popular TV show that will be aired later this year. The show will celebrate Elizabeth II’s Great Britons, and Andrew has been busy researching Buckingham Palace cookbooks and food trends since the Queen’s coronation in 1952. ✱





Happy days at new restaurant The Old Spot @daylesfordfarm

@henscleancakes makes tasty tarts with @shiptonmill buckwheat flour

There’s a new place to eat at splendid Blenheim Palace that promises affordable dining in a pretty spectacular setting. The Orangery is now serving up the following: ‘elevenses’ (10.30am-12pm) – American-style brunch; lunch (12-3pm) – featuring local and estate produce with seasonal specials; and afternoon tea (12-7pm) – a right elegant affair with perfect finger sarnies, scones and pastries.

Sheep just got real down at Stowon-the-Wold as The Sheep on Sheep Street – a brand new bar and restaurant with rooms – opened at the start of July. It’s a chic “Sohostylish” space with parquet flooring and modern artworks. When it comes to food, we’ve been promised “healthy, modern dishes and Southern Italian-inspired gourmet pizzas”. Outside there’s a sun-filled courtyard with drinking and dining.

In the diary...

4-7 Aug

2021 Aug

2628 Aug

Countryfile Live For the first time, the TV countryside show will host a live event where you can meet presenters, listen to talks, canoe, fish and more. Tickets from £24; Herefordshire & Gloucestershire Canal Festival The 2016 festival, coupled with the Saturday evening Beer, Cider & Perry Festival, will take place at The Wharf House, Over Basin and Vineyard Hill stretch of restored canal; The Big Feastival A fab fest of food and feel-good music on Alex James’ farm in Kingham, with tons of celebs and camping. Tickets from £59;



In the Larder






LOCA L A N D LOVING IT New on the Cotswold indie scene are these top summertime treats, all of them flavoursome and fabulous 1. OFF THE KEG Hobgoblin mini keg £15/5l Got a summer shindig, birthday or festival coming up? A Sunday BBQ with your chums? Of course you have! No matter what the event, though, keep your revellers topped up with a brilliant keg of locally brewed Hobgoblin. It’s a dangerously moreish ale that’s smooth, malty and fruity. Available online, or from all major supermarkets. ✱ 2. CRUMBS’ CURRENT CRUSH Organic Blackcurrant Liqueur £7.95/10cl Today us Brits are giving the French a run for their money when it comes to booze, and here’s a

produced naturally, using Moravian malt, Saaz hops and sand-filtered water (collected from the Zatec foothills, don’t you know?). And it comes in a cool bottle. What we really care about, though, is its refreshing taste with a hint of bitterness, and thirst-quenching powers. Available from Waitrose, and online via Ocado. ✱

prime example. Gibson’s Organic Liqueurs contain only fruit grown on the organic farm in Westwell, resulting in a beautifully fresh and flavoursome liqueur that’s wonderfully smooth but with a hint of tartness. Drink on its own (it’s easily guzzleable), drop in Prosecco or use to make divine desserts and sauces. The range includes raspberry, elderflower, sloe gin and more. Buy from the Organic Farm Shop in Cirencester or online. ✱

4. PUMP UP THE PICKLE Little Pickle Pumpkin Piccalilli £4/212ml You can’t beat a ploughman’s lunch on a summer’s day, and we like to pimp ours up with foraged leaves, homemade dressings, organic stoneground flour bread, and a big dollop of our

3. SHOUTING LAGER, LAGER, LAGER Celia Organic Lager, £2.50/330ml This organic, vegan, glutenfree and wheatfree Czech lager is


favourite pickle. Perfect for roasted ham or a local Cheddar is this pumpkin piccalilli, which is light and tangy and bursting with fresh flavour, including mustard, cumin and fennel. Available at Fosseway Garden Centre and Cotswold Cheese Co. ✱ 5. SQUASH IN Rocks Lemon or Orange Barley Squash £3.49/740ml Barley squash is having a moment and, thanks to Rocks, is back in a new and souped-up form. Their two new drinks are made from organic whole oranges and lemons and organic cane sugar, UK-grown barley and Rocks’ own spring water. They taste pretty good, too. ✱

At the Halfway House we are trying to reduce the amount of food miles on our menu and to also support local suppliers. Here are a few facts about our food...


available 2.30pm-5pm, Monday-Saturday

MEAT 7 ROAD MILES A majority of our meat is sourced locally (e.g. Willersley Bacon – Broadway) or produced locally and supplied by our butchers (Vale & Hills Winchcombe) including our Gluten Free sausages DISHES MADE WITH MINCE We grind our meat here at the Halfway. Our mince is either ground 28 day Aged Beef Rump or Gloucester Old Spot Pork Loin – Nice and healthy GAME & TURKEY 1.5 ROAD MILES Hitchin Farm is 1.5 road miles EGGS 100 YARDS From Mandy & Mary’s Chickens up the road.

A traditional country inn overlooking the Coln Valley

MAYONNAISE & RAPESEED OIL 9 ROAD MILES All from Cotswold Gold in Broadway

15 stunning rooms Cosy bar and restaurant serving great food Local ales, as well as ciders and lagers on tap Selection of high-quality wines and spirits Outside terrace and dining

Our CHIPS are only made from British potatoes

“Tranquil village pub with a good menu ” THE NEW INN, COLN ST ALDWYNS

01285 750651

VEGETABLES & SALADS 14 ROAD MILES Most of our vegetables and salads are farmed in Evesham, however we would like to get much closer to home; so if you know of anywhere, please let us know! HERBS AND CHILLIES 2.5 ROAD MILES When in season we buy our chillies and herbs from Farmcote Chilli Farm. This is open to the public and worth a visit. SMOKED FOOD 12 ROAD MILES All smoked at Colne Valley Smokery (Northleach) JELLIES 100 YARDS Kineton Kitchens Jolly Jellies – made by Mandy just up the road! If you enjoy these unusual jellies let us know as we may be able to sell you a jar! ICE CREAM 22 ROAD MILES Winstones Ice Cream Cirencester

01451 850344 • Kineton, Guiting Power, Cheltenham, Glos GL54 5UG


New Kid kid on on the the Block block New Hi, Piotr! So tell us, when did you start cooking? When I was quite young I helped my parents with the cooking. Ever since I can remember, our dinner time was always special family time when we ate together and chatted about life. And have you got any fond foodie memories from your childhood? My fondest childhood food memory is gardening with my grandfather. He had an amazing passion for homegrown food – strawberries, tomatoes, cherries, apples, raspberries, even sunflowers. So, what was your very first job in the industry? My first job when I came to Cheltenham was kitchen porter at Queens Hotel. After six months I was promoted to commis chef. I still remember that day, when head chef Mike Rooke called me into his office and gave me my chef’s whites.

BEEFING IT UP Get to know that there Piotr Antkowitz, new guy at The Ox in Cheltenham

And what’s been the toughest job you’ve tackled so far? When I was young, during a summer holiday, for one month I picked cucumbers in a field from 6am till 3pm in the scorching 30C heat. It was very tough. I have massive respect for all farmers and their products. What attracted you to The Ox here in Cheltenham, then? After my first interview with the group chef, I was sure it would be the right place for me and my ideas. We have our ‘group butcher’, who is responsible for our meat, and we are constantly searching for the best produce on the market to make sure our customers are happy. How many of you are there in the kitchen team? Two months ago I completely built my team, so we are now fully staffed with five chefs and two kitchen porters, who all share a strong passion for cooking.


How have you approached the menu at The Ox? Seasonality is very important to me – using product when it is ripe, sweet and best to eat. I also try to make dishes that will be attractive to vegetarians and people with glutenfree diets. I want to make memorable dishes for them, to make their dinner or lunch special. What makes the local foodie scene so great? If I'm correct, we have over 300 places to eat around us. Also, we are living in the Cotswolds, where we have the best-quality products, including milk, butter, yoghurts, asparagus, salad, fruits, game, beef, lamb, flour, even oils. It makes it a very special place. Favourite suppliers you use? Buxton Butchers is our meat supplier, based in Bristol, and Wellocks is our supplier of veg and fruits. What kind of meals do you cook at home? Family-orientated meals for my two daughters and wife: something healthy, and not too heavy – they are my most important food critics! What’s you favourite cookery book? The Noma cookery book, which brings back memories of some of the dishes I was lucky to serve during my stage over there; also, The Flavor Bible is great, to give you some ideas on how to pair food. Who are your foodie heroes? Gordon Ramsay for all his determination, René Redzepi for everything he did, and David Kelman for flavour and personality. Current favourite flavour combo? I love yuzu and seaweed – it’s great for fish and shellfish. I also like bringing natural flavour into ice creams and sorbets – flavours like thyme, carrot, rosemary and beetroot. ✱


Trio KIT OUT YOUR KITCHEN If you’re looking to renovate, refurb or just add a few fresh touches, here are the places to call on first... HUNT BESPOKE KITCHENS AND INTERIORS With changing times, people are now moving more – and therefore wanting to have a fabulous kitchen on a lower budget. With this in mind, Hunt Bespoke have introduced a starting point to their kitchens with an alternative to solid wood internals. This means they can reduce the cost while still providing bespoke, handmade items with wooden frames and doors. What’s more, Hunt Bespoke offer a full service for anything from a full-room renovation to a single piece of furniture. They will help with all the decisions then arrange everything for you. All their cabinet makers, finishers and fitters are employed, so they will be with you from start to finish. ✱ High Street, Bloxham OX15 4LT; 01295 721111;

PITTVILLE BATHROOMS AND KITCHENS Cheltenham regulars will probably already know Pittville Bathrooms and Kitchens’ twin showrooms, which face each other on Prestbury Road. The first was opened in 2007 by owner Simon Butler, followed by the second, dedicated solely to kitchens. As well as an experienced carpenter, Simon is a trained bathroom, bedroom and living space designer. The team also now includes full-time kitchen and bathroom planners and designers, and in-house installation teams. They offer creative design, supply and installation covering the whole of the Cotswolds and beyond. Alternatively, they can supply one or all of the products for your project, but always with the same level of reliability and care. ✱ 12+35 Prestbury Road, Cheltenham GL52 2PW; 01242 251113;

UNFITTED No other kitchen is quite like an Unfitted kitchen – there’s nothing ‘standard’. Want to make sure your kitchen is bang on trend? The selection of cabinet styles and interiors they have is huge – the finishes too. Choose from smooth, sprayed finishes in any colour, to those distressed, vintage styles that are making a resurgence, especially in ‘industrial’ shades with copper knobs and handles. At Unfitted there is full, in-house bespoke manufacturing and they offer a complete, no-obligation design service covering the UK and beyond. Detailed plans, elevations and individually priced quotations are emailed or posted to customers to allow you to consider their proposal in the comfort of your own home. Visit the showroom, and leave excited and inspired. ✱ Hope House, High Street, Moreton-in-Marsh GL56 0LH; 01608 650065;



Ask the House Manager Who knows the menu best? Who makes the greatest impact on your experience? Front-of-house is your friend!

Hi, James! How long have you been grafting at The Wheatsheaf, then? I’ve been working here for nearly 12 months now – since July 2015. And what’s the best thing about being here? One of the things I love is the fact that we have such a close-knit team; not only do they feel like my second family, but we also function together like a well-oiled machine! So, tell us, what’s the most difficult part of the job? It can be challenging, striving for (and maintaining) perfection in all departments. At times, it’s hard to be able to divide yourself into five pieces and be everywhere at once – there’s a lot of pressure. However, when everything comes together the satisfaction makes it worth it.

ON THE HOUSE Meet dapper James Purvis, house manager at The Wheatsheaf Inn, part of The Lucky Onion group This could be you! Contact us at:

What skills have you learnt since coming here? That you need to be very level-headed, and to be professional at all times. Not only do customers look to you to solve any problems they may have, but your team do too – they need to feel comfortable in confiding in you, and know that you will help them. Sometimes the pressure can be a lot but, by taking just a few seconds to step back from the problem and come back down to earth, the solution will easily be found. Communication is also key. What sort of customers do you get? We have a huge variety of customers, which keeps the job interesting. From the locals who become your friends to visitors from all over the world, you never know who’s going to walk through the door! What are your best-selling dishes at the moment? The twice-baked Cheddar soufflé as a starter is our signature dish, and rightly so – it’s incredibly delicious, and made


to perfection. For mains, the rump of lamb with Wye Valley asparagus is fantastic – a match made in heaven. What are the best-selling drinks? Our selection of local ales goes down a treat with the local crowd, and the extensive wine list means there’s something for everyone. For me, I would start with a seasonal Bellini and then move onto a glass of Picpoul de Pinet, followed by Chilean Coyam Cabernet Sauvignon. And you can never say no to an espresso Martini to accompany pudding! If you were a customer at The Wheatsheaf Inn today, what would you order? To start, I would have the Wye Valley asparagus salad, served with a poached Arlington White, and I’d follow it with poached salmon with new-season Jersey Royal potatoes with sauce vierge – something a little lighter for the summer months, but incredibly delicious! You can’t go wrong with a nice rosé to wash it down with, either. What do you think makes great customer service? The three most important things to have in this industry are professionalism, communication and knowledge. Where do you like to eat on your days off? One of my favourite spots I like to visit is actually another Lucky Onion site, The Tavern in Cheltenham. The food is always outstanding, and it has such a cool, urban atmosphere, which I love! You know you’re going to have great evening as soon as you get there. What do you cook at home? Why cook when you have so many fantastic restaurants at your fingertips? ✱

Indulge yourselves in our tantalising menu and enjoy our local flavours To make your reservation, please call 01453 833843 or visit SUNDAY ROAST Local beef and pork

from local suppliers within a 15 mile radius (wherever possible)

FABULOUS FISH FRIDAY 6 or 7 fresh fish dishes to inspire

Complimentary glass of wine with your meal Show this advert at time of ordering. Maximum two people per advert. T&Cs apply.

The South West’s ‘Best Pub’ Western Daily Press Food and Farming Awards 2016 Gloucestershire’s Community Pub of the Year Young Business of the Year 2015 Tel: 01453 833843 f thehogathorsley T thehogathorsley


Kitchen Library The freshest, most inspirational cook books of the month


Kay Plunkett-Hogge Quercus, £20

Subtitled ‘Cooking with Chillies, the World’s Favourite Spice’, this colourful new book from food writer Kay PlunkettHogge follows the trail of this fiery ingredient from the Americas to Europe, and along the spice routes to the Middle East, India, China and beyond. With more than 120 recipes from around the world, including Thai, Indian and Mexican dishes, and some tantalising desserts, Heat showcases the huge versatility of chilli, and celebrates its rich and nomadic history. From a Peruvian ceviche and Thai-influenced green papaya salad to a fragrant Goan pork vindaloo, via chicken biryani and a Bedouin lamb leg spiced with cinnamon, saffron and Aleppo pepper, it’s a highly vibrant book that’ll bring plenty of warmth and colour to your kitchen.

COOKING WITH LOULA Alexandra Stratou Artisan, £20

Unlike many Greek cookbooks that simply feature dishes aimed at tourists wanting to recreate their holiday restaurant meals, Cooking with Loula takes us into the kitchen of a Greek family for a fascinating look at the traditions and pleasures of sharing a homecooked meal. As well as revisiting recipes from her parents, Alexandra Stratou focuses on memories of Kyria Loula, the woman who started working at her great-grandmother’s house, cooking for the family on a weekly basis. Beautifully written and tastefully designed, the book features 100 recipes organised with chapters on simple healthy weekday dishes, more leisurely Sunday meals, and also dishes for high days and holidays. We like the recipes for green beans and shrimp; tomato-stewed chicken with orzo; and the beef stifado.



Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds Phaidon, £24.95

Lindsey Bareham Mitchell Beazley, £20

Based on the idea of the fashion capsule wardrobe, Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds show that with a perfectly stocked pantry of basic items, anybody can create delicious, effortless food. The Kitchen Shelf provides a convenient and fuss-free approach to tasty everyday cooking, with 100 delicious recipes broken down into key chapters around hero ingredients and pantry/cupboard/fridge. These straightforward recipes include Persian lamb with pomegranate rice; fennel, orange and chickpea salad; shrimp and tomato curry; and peanut butter blondies. With tips and tricks that make it easy to swap ingredients and nudge you into creating new dishes, this is a must-have for any kitchen.

Whether it’s her bestselling collaborations with Simon Hopkinson, or her solo books, a new arrival from Lindsey Bareham is always cause for celebration, and Dinner Tonight is no exception. Based on the premise that you’re home from work, starving and staring into the fridge wondering what to cook for dinner, the book is a collection of the most mouth-watering recipes from her popular Times column. With enticing ideas and an emphasis on fresh, seasonal foods, it’s packed with ‘200 dishes you can cook in minutes’. Highlights include Thai mango chicken salad; teriyaki beef and noodles; and strawberry almond crumble. This is a brilliant cookbook from a writer who understands the demands of the time-poor in search of a quick, healthy meal.


A HANDFUL OF FLOUR Tess Lister Headline, £27

Located near Tetbury, the mill in Shipton Moyne Wood has been producing flour since the time of the Domesday Book, and now produces organic, stoneground flour used by many top chefs around the world. The flour produced at Shipton Mill has earned many supporters among professional and amateur bakers, as well as chefs including Richard Bertinet, Paul Hollywood and Jamie Oliver. Owner John Lister’s daughter, Tess, has written all the recipes in A Handful of Flour with help from the mill’s head baker. As well as detailed sections about flour varieties, the book tells the story of the mill, alongside recipes for breads and savoury and sweet dishes, including courgette, potato and mint tart; chicken schnitzel with Parmesan and rosemary crust; and spelt and wildflower honey cake.


Cooking with Loula by Alexandra Stratou (Artisan, £20)


To make a pie, one simply has to contain ingredients inside layers of dough. I imagine that at some point there were no recipes for them, as they were just filled with leftovers or abundant produce from a family’s vegetable garden. Pies are perfect when you need to feed large groups of people – you can make them in advance, they don’t need much fussing over, and people always love them! This spanakopita recipe has earned me many moments of glory, and I hope it will do the same for you. INGREDIENTS

extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 large leek, finely chopped 500g various greens (such as chard), washed, stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped


500g spinach, stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped 500g feta cheese, crumbled 3 large eggs 1 x 225g pack filo pastry METHOD

– Coat a large frying pan with olive oil and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion and leek and cook until golden. Add the greens and spinach, cover the pan with a lid, and allow to wilt. Add a bit of water if the pan becomes too dry. – Remove from the heat and drain to remove any excess liquid before transferring the greens to a bowl. – Mix in the feta and eggs, and some pepper. Taste and season, if needed.  – Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Brush a 13x9 inch (33x23cm) baking dish or baking pan

with olive oil. Start the pie by laying a filo sheet on all four sides of the baking dish. Each sheet should partially cover the bottom of the dish, with the rest hanging over the edge. Brush every piece of filo that you lay on the dish with oil. Then place 5 sheets in the centre, brushing each with oil. Add the filling and spread it out evenly. – Place 5 more sheets of filo over the filling, brushing each with oil, then fold over the overhanging sheets that you started with. Cut any excess filo away with scissors or a knife and use your pastry brush to tuck the filo in around the edges of the dish. Score the top with a sharp knife, marking the pieces you wish to cut later. Sprinkle with a little water. – Bake in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the filo is golden brown.



MASTERCHEF: THE PROFESSIONALS 2015 • Open for Dinner Wednesday - Saturday • Sunday Lunch • Afternoon Tea Thursday - Saturday • Weddings, Parties & Celebrations • 17 Individually Designed Boutique Bedrooms

Hammock Road, Eckington, Worcestershire WR10 3BJ t: 01386 751600 e:


What do you call a sad raspberry? A blueberry (ba-dum tshh)


Perfect dough and top toppings from Ben Bullen Page 26

EAT TO THE BEET Fresh vegan stir fry from Navina Bartlett Page 28


Natasha Corrett brings bread pudding up to date Page 30


A light version of cheesecake from Over Farm Market Page 32



34 SOUPERIOR RECIPE We’re head over gills about a mackerel crumb


You knead this Make Ben Bullen’s perfect pizza to win over one and all


Topping tips


Other favourite toppings appearing on the menu at Magnolia Brasserie are shaved fennel with anchovy and burrata, and parma ham with olives. Use pancetta for a subtle, smoky flavour or thinly slice summer vegetables, such as courgettes, broad beans, asparagus and peas, for a vegetarian feast.


Try using gorgonzola instead of mozzarella and goat’s cheese with red onion jam and balsamic vinegar, or pecorino with courgettes and basil.

“It’s called elbow grease for a reason,” says Magnolia Brasserie’s head chef, Ben Bullen. “The success or failure of a pizza rests solely on the quality of the dough. The dough has to be perfect; if not, there’s no point trying – no topping will save it.” Since taking over the Magnolia Brasserie at Sudbury House Hotel and transforming it into a contemporary restaurant with open kitchen and wood-burning stove, Ben has been keen to showcase his unique take on the Italian staple. His new menu is an eclectic combination of classics, sharing boards, specials – and pizzas. “People have lost sight of what pizzas are,” he says. “They see it as doughy fast food that you eat after a few beers, but that’s not what they should be. The problem is a lot of people make them with bread flour, which is why they’re so dense – that’s a big mistake.” So make sure your pizzas are perfect with Ben’s base recipe and tasty topping...


1 small red onion, finely chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped ½ tbsp basil, finely chopped ½ dstsp sundried tomato paste ½ dstsp tomato purée For the topping 4 small cooking chorizo, thinly sliced handful of rocket 4 balls mozzarella METHOD

To make the dough – Mix all dry ingredients together. If using an electric mixer, then leave to mix slowly for 5 minutes using a dough hook; if doing by hand, then rub the dry ingredients together until well incorporated. – Mix together all the liquids and slowly add to dry mix; it will start to form into a dough. Knead the dough for a minimum of 10 minutes (if you’re doing by hand then longer may be required). Knead until your dough is stretchy and smooth. – Place in a floured bowl and wrap in cling film. Leave to slow-prove in the fridge overnight.


For the dough (Makes four large, thin-crust pizzas) 500g pizza flour 2g fresh yeast 4g sugar 6g salt 300ml milk 20ml olive oil 20ml double cream For the passata (Makes ½ litre – you can freeze any excess) 8 ripe medium to large tomatoes, halved

To make the passata – Place the tomatoes, garlic, basil and black pepper into a blender and liquidise. – Using a large frying pan, gently fry the red onion in the olive oil until just golden. Add to blender and liquidise. – Pour blender contents into a large pan and bring to the boil. Add tomato paste and purée and mix thoroughly. – Gently simmer for 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently, and reduce until you have the perfect passata. To make the pizza – Dust a work surface with a little flour and put a ball of dough onto it. Flatten it using your hand, then knock the air out of it with your fingertips. Lift it up onto your fingertips and rotate it, stretching it out as you go until it's as thin as possible. – Slide onto a pre-heated, heavy-based baking tray dusted with flour and add your toppings and a drizzle of olive oil. Cook in a very hot oven, as hot as it can go, for approx 8 minutes, until crisp and golden. ✱ THE MAGNOLIA BRASSERIE, Sudbury House Hotel, 56 London Street, Faringdon SN7 7AA; 01367 241272;


o t e c ! i u R meet yo Here’s a summery stir fry that’s packed with flavour from Coconut Chilli’s Navina Bartlett





For the lemon rice ½ white onion 3 green finger chillies 1 lemon 1 lime 1 tbsp ghee/rapeseed oil ½ tsp black mustard seeds ¼ tsp ground turmeric 500g cooked basmati rice handful raw peanuts handful fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped

For the beetroot stir fry 3 large beetroot 1 tbsp ghee/rapeseed oil ½ tsp whole cumin seeds ½ tsp split moong dhal 1 tbsp lemon juice handful fresh coriander leaves (roughly chopped) 10g fresh coconut – grated ½ tsp Himalayan pink salt


To make the rice – Finely dice the onion and deseed the chillies (if you wish). – Juice half the lemon and half the lime. – Heat the ghee in a frying pan until hot. – Add the black mustard seeds and cover, turn down the heat to low and wait until the popping sound stops (approx 15 seconds). – Add the peanuts and fry for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent them from burning. – Add the onion and green chillies, then fry for 2 minutes until softened. – Add the turmeric and be sure to coat all the onion. – Add the mixture to a large mixing bowl along with the rice, salt, lemon and lime juice (adjust seasoning to taste). – Stir through the coriander and serve at room temperature. To make the stir fry – Peel and cut the beetroot into batons. – Parboil in boiling water for 5 minutes, blanch in ice-cold water then drain. – Heat the ghee in a large wok until hot, then turn down heat to low. – Add cumin seeds and split moong dhal and fry for 30 seconds, stirring frequently. – Add the beetroot and fry for 3-5 minutes, until caramelised. – Add the lemon juice, salt and coriander. – Garnish with freshly grated coconut and serve hot.


Renowned Indian culinary expert Navina Bartlett is the boss lady of Coconut Chilli – a Bristol-based food start-up manufacturing “hill-station inspired” Indian meal pots. Navina is originally from Bangalore in Southern India, although she has lived all her life in the UK, so she knows a thing or two about Indian flavours. When cooking at home, Navina often makes vegetables the hero of her dishes and combines seasonal ingredients with careful spicing to create original recipes. She uses modern cooking techniques to enhance nutrition, without losing allimportant flavour. Navina has created a quick, fresh, vegan supper that will brighten up your midweek meal. Navina personally uses ghee (clarified butter) to fry her spices, but you can substitute rapeseed oil if you prefer. Beetroot is commonly grown in India and evolved from wild sea beet, which could be found growing in coastal regions. Sometimes Navina also uses the beetroot leaves in her sambhar – a nutritious lentil dish with vegetables that is commonly eaten for lunch. ✱


berry nice How

Healthy eating guru Natasha Corrett has let us borrow this top recipe. (We’ll give it back, we promise!)

Recipe writer and food lover Natasha is in the Cotswolds this month, demo-ing her tasty healthy-eating recipes at The Big Feastival in Kingham (26-18 August, To celebrate, she’s sharing this sweet and tangy summer berry pudding that looks as good as it tastes. Natasha says… “I know some might think that summer pudding is a little old school, but every time I go to my friend’s house in the summer we have it – and I love, love, love it. It always looks so amazing drizzled with that bright pink coulis and scattered with lots of extra berries. I therefore thought I ought to create a healthier version for those long summer days and dinners eaten in the garden.”



250g raspberries 250g strawberries 120g blackcurrants 120g blueberries 3 tbsp agave syrup zest and juice of ½ lime 6-8 slices gluten-free bread METHOD


– Place the fruit, agave syrup and lime juice in a pan with 2 tablespoons water and simmer over a gentle heat for 4 minutes. The raspberries should have broken down and lots of delicious juice should be gathering at the bottom of the pan. Set a sieve over a bowl and drain the fruit. – Cut the crusts off the bread so that you have rectangles about 5cm wide and 10cm long. These will be used to line a 1 litre pudding bowl. Take one piece of bread at a time, dip it in the fruit juice and then place it up the side of the bowl. Repeat until you have gone all around the bowl, making sure that there are no gaps between each slice of bread. You might need to push the sides of each slice together a bit or cut some smaller fingers of bread to bridge any gaps. Finally, using a cutter, cut a circle of bread to fill the base of the bowl – use any offcuts to bridge further gaps, as you don’t want any of the fruit to escape. – Once the bowl is lined, pour the fruit and remaining juice into the centre of the bowl, then cover with more bread so as to seal the pudding. – Refrigerate the pudding overnight with a weight on top. I use a sideplate with an apple or two on top. The liquid should not overflow from the pudding, but put a plate under the bowl in the fridge just in case. – Remove the pudding from the fridge when you are ready to serve and carefully flip it onto a plate. Drizzle any leftover juice on top and scatter the plate with some more berries and chopped mint. – Serve with a dollop of yoghurt.


✱ Recipe taken from HONESTLY HEALTHY IN A HURRY, published by Hodder & Stoughton, £25


Litetting rise Lighter than a cheesecake and bursting with sweetness is this cool strawberry cake from Jess Davis at Over Farm



Here’s a sweet dish that’s perfect for a summertime treat. It’s from talented cook Jess Davis, who is leader at Over Farm’s deli; she’s always baking and making fantastic cakes, crumbles, tiffin, treacle tarts and more. Make sure you pop into the Farm Shop next time you’re in Gloucester – if you time it right, there might even be her famous upside-down pear cake on offer. Anyway, this issue we’re excited that she’s shared the recipe for her brilliant strawberry cloud cake. It’s a lighter version of a cheesecake and, served chilled, makes the perfect dessert for a hot August day. Rather serve it frozen? Then it’s like “delicious creamy ice cream on a biscuit base.” Mmmm!


For the base 150g plain digestive biscuits 1½ tsp ground cinnamon 100g melted butter For the filling 2 egg whites (at room temperature) 1 cup sugar 300g ripe strawberries, hulled and sliced 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp vanilla extract METHOD

– Grease a 26-28cm round cake tin. – Crush the biscuits to crumbs and then mix with melted butter and cinnamon. – Push butter biscuit mix into the cake tin and spread out evenly. Place tin in the fridge. – Put egg whites, sugar, sliced strawberries, lemon juice and vanilla extract into a mixing bowl and mix with a high-speed whisk for 10-15mins, until thick and fluffy. – Spoon mixture into the cake tin on top the biscuit base and level out. – Place into the freezer for 4-5 hours. – Top with strawberries and coulis. ✱ OVER FARM MARKET, Over, Gloucester GL2 8DB; 01452 521014;


Veg Out

BEET THE CLOCK Blogger, private chef and keen kitchen gardener Kathy Slack of Gluts and Gluttony tells you what to grow and how to cook it. This week, brilliant beetroot


BEETROOT REALLY IS the ultimate vegetable. It’s sweet and savoury at the same time, easy to grow, interesting to cook, pretty to look at – the whole package. You can sow them directly into the ground anytime after May (before then I find they struggle to germinate) and before October. Though, unless you’re growing in well-protected raised beds and have no wildlife, I find sowing direct has limited success since the baby shoots are irresistible to birds. Instead, plant three or four seeds in a coir pot (those fibrous brown pots you can buy in packs of 20-50 in the garden centre), keeping them raised, sheltered and out of harm’s way. When the leaves are 4-5cm tall, plant the whole thing in the ground. The coir pot will degrade and the older plants will have more gumption to deal with any invading hordes of pests or wildlife. The fibre pot is important here: root crops hate having their underneath disturbed (don’t we all!), so this avoids any disruption to them when ‘transplanting’. Beetroot comes in all sorts of colours. The classic purple varieties I especially like are Detroit 2 (no, I don’t know what happened to 1!) and boltardy. The seaside candy rock varieties, which are pink and white striped inside, are chioggia and are wonderful raw. They lose some colour in cooking, and it seems a shame to do that. I think the white ones (such as blankhoma) are a bit pointless – tasteless and boring. And yellow beets like boldor and burpees golden are pretty, but better cooked as they don’t have the sweetness when raw.

✱ Kathy Slack writes the food blog Gluts & Gluttony about the gluts she gets from her veg patch and the ensuing gluttony in the kitchen. She is a private chef and supper club host and also offers private and public in-home cookery classes. Visit for more Follow Kathy on Twitter and Instagram @gluts_gluttony

BEETROOT SOUP WITH MACKEREL CRUMBLE Now, I know mackerel crumble sounds a bit fussy – perhaps a needless showoff flourish that enhances the chef’s ego more than it enhances the dish! But I assure you, this isn’t a superfluous flourish. Beetroot goes wonderfully with oily fish. Plus, all soups like a bit of crunch to give variety to the texture that can be a bit samey. So try it – it takes soup to a whole new level.


500g beetroot 1 handful fresh breadcrumbs 10g butter sprig of thyme 2 smoked mackerel fillets 4 tbsp creme fraiche salt and pepper METHOD

– Pre-heat oven to 190C/375F/gas 5. Wrap beetroot tightly in tin foil and roast for 2 hours (especially if your beets are huge). The beetroot must be well-cooked through. Remove, open the parcel and, once cool enough to handle, peel. – Chop beetroot into chunks. Add around 300ml water and season with plenty of salt. Blitz in a blender until smooth, adding more water if needed, to create a velvety smooth soup. – Warm the soup over a low heat and adjust the seasoning. Do not boil.


– For the crumble, put the breadcrumbs, butter and thyme leaves into a food processor. Peel the skin off one of the mackerel fillets and flake it into the processor. Season with salt and pepper and whizz until well combined. – Take a large frying pan on a medium to high heat and toast the mixture until golden brown. (Be careful, the crumbs burn easily.) – To serve, pour the hot soup into warmed bowls. Swirl in a spoon of creme fraiche, add a few flakes of mackerel on top and sprinkle over the crumble. Serve quickly before the crumble goes soft. TIP: Should the sun shine this soup can also be served chilled. In which case, omit the mackerel crumb and add a slug of vodka to the soup when seasoning. Or serve as amuse-bouches, chilled in small shot glasses.

Fresh, local produce cooked with style, imagination and flair... Our meat is supplied by Jesse Smith butchers and we pride ourselves on our fresh fish and seafood, delivered daily from Cornwall.

The Stableyard, Black Jack St Cirencester GL7 2AA 01285 641497 | ab

( adverti sing feature )






THE DRINKS CABINET presented by The Craft Drink Co.


ummer is the perfect time for drinking cider… at home, by the BBQ, at festivals, parties and picnics, and, of course, at your local pub. The Craft Drink Co’s craft ciders represent a great selection of styles – from fruit ciders to ciders that are dry to medium in sweetness and that are refreshingly sparkling or traditionally still. All are available in bottles or as a 20-litre bagin-box, making them ideal for any occasion.

1 Cotswold Cider Company – No Brainer No Brainer is a cloudy, sparkling, dry cider that’s full of bittersweet tannins and delivers thumping good flavour for the real cider lover. At 4.8% ABV it’s a perfect session cider and is available in 500ml and 330ml sizes. Its older brother, the still No Brainer Classic weighs in at 6% ABV and is available as a 1-litre flagon and 20-litre bag-in-box.

this sparkling cider is slightly dry, light and smooth with a soft tannic finish and has an aroma like freshly pressed apple juice. Harry’s has gained three awards already this year – at the British Championship, Taste of the West, and the International Cider Challenge. They also have a ‘still’ traditional version available in a 20 litre bag-in-box. 4 Once Upon a Tree – Harry Taylor’s Thrown Hat Harry Taylor’s Thrown Hat is a golden cider, rich in bittersweet apple aromas and flavours with a tangy apple finish. It won second place in the Cider Show Down at Euston Cider Tap last year. Lightly sparkling in bottle

2 Dunkertons Cider – Black Fox Dunkertons flagship cider Black Fox is an organic, medium-dry cider (clear and sparkling in bottle). At 7% ABV, it has a full apple aroma and flavour and a long finish. On trend, this year they are launching a 20-litre bag-in-box of medium sweetness with a slightly lower ABV of 5% – festival goers, look out! 3 Harry’s Cider – Original Made in the heart of Somerset ‘ciderland’,



and traditionally still in bag-in-box, both are equally delicious and drinkable. 5 Saxby’s Cider – Plum Cider Winner of New Local Drink of the Year in the Carlsberg UK Northamptonshire Food and Drink Awards 2015/16, Saxby’s Plum Cider is made from plum juice blended with traditional cider apple varieties. It offers the tartness and sharpness of a well-crafted cider with a warm fruitiness coming through from the plum. At 3.8% it’s a light and refreshing drink, perfect for long summer days. 6 Hogan’s Cider – Picker’s Passion Picker’s Passion is a moreish, still, medium cider with a honey colour and appley aroma, combining rich peaty overtones with the fresh taste of bittersweet apples. It’s available in two sizes of bag in box – 3 or 20-litre).

The Craft Drink Co. is a speciality craft drinks distributor supplying independent businesses with exceptional craft drinks sourced from makers across The Cotswolds and Central England region. Visit for more information on buying these ciders.

The Golden Pheasant Inn


Welcome to our newly refurbished Cotswold pub, restaurant and inn.

Wine Bar & Bistro

Situated right in the centre of Burford, this gorgeous eighteenth century stone hotel is a perfect base for your weekend away in the Cotswolds.

JRooL Wine Bar & Bistro is a charming, independent, familyfriendly restaurant set in the heart of Stroud. Located a stone’s throw from the award-winning Farmer’s Market, we use fresh, locally sourced, seasonal produce. We serve delicious dishes from a regularly changed menu, and also have daily specials.

BURGER NIGHT EVERY THURSDAY £12.95 including a drink

Beer, wine or prosecco. Veggie options available. Booking required.


Blues, Rock and solo artists – including ‘Stone Cold Sober’






Tapas shared meal for 2, including a bottle of Prosecco £18.25 per person Thursday & Friday 6pm to close. Saturday 12 to 3pm & 6pm to close. Booking required. See menu for details.


A choice of 5 real ales Sky sports, BT sports, Racing UK and At the Races Live music every Saturday Fresh home cooked foods Specialising in Grill & pizza • Daily specials 18 well appointed bedrooms (17 ensuite) 91 High Street, Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4QA

01993 823223

Mon: Tue: Wed: Thu: Fri: Sat: Sun:

closed 10am - 3pm 10am - 3pm 10am - 3pm / 6pm - close 10am - 3pm / 6pm - close 9am - 3pm / 6pm - close closed


Thu: 6pm - close Fri: 6pm - close Sat: Midday - 3pm / 6pm - close

PRIVATE FUNCTIONS Our Bistro can cater for up to 26 seated guests or 50 for a less formal buffet. Whether you are celebrating a birthday, running a fundraising event or hosting a work function, owner Steve will be happy to discuss your requirements, please get in touch.

JRooL | 12 Union Street | Stroud | Gloucestershire | GL5 2HE | 01453 767123



BURNING LOVE Now we’re in the midst of patio season, we all want to sit outside as long as we can. But, says Matt Bielby, Bielby sometimes nature needs a bit of help…

You know what? I’d rather be too hot than too cold. Summer’s great an’ all, but by the time the sun slips behind the treeline I’m more than happy to pack up and go inside… Whoa, there! Not so fast! You see, I might just have the solution for you. Looking not unlike a squat, wide-mouthed, giantsize jar of Marmite, this bang-on-trend combo heater and cooker – a slightly space-age matte black beast – from Danish experts Morso keeps you warm on the long evenings and serves as a handy grill or pizza oven as it does so. The difference, of course, is that this is not a love-it-or-hate-it thing: unlike Marmite, everyone can appreciate the Morso Forno.

sausages, burgers (all all the barbecue classics), and even marshmallows on a fork. You can happily try trendy Southern American-style, slow-cooked food on it too, while an optional door even turns it into a smoker.

Well, it looks pretty cool, but how does it work? The old fashioned way – by burning wood or charcoal. There’s a wide, low-ceilinged firebox in this modernist, kettle-shaped thing that produces plenty of radiant heat – you hardly need to huddle around it, even – and there’s plenty of space inside, so you can just push the firewood to one side when it’s time to cook. Internally, it’s not unlike a classic Italian stone oven, which makes it perfect for making crisp, fresh pizzas or crusty bread. Pop in the grill grate and you can do fish, steaks,

Where do you put it? Wherever you want, as long as it’s sturdy enough – this thing is made of cast iron, after all, so it’ll happily live outside all year around – but it does look pretty cool sitting on this chunky wheeled table accessory (part of the Forno Garden Kit that includes a Tuscan grill insert, an ash scraper, and three bags of kindling wood). As well as raising this handsome Dane to a useful height, the table also adds a handy prep surface, plenty of storage for wood under the table top, and hooks for hanging utensils and all those pizza oven


A kooky kitchen

Some solid framework


tools. Plus, of course, you can now easily wheel it around to wherever on the patio best suits. Sounds perfect to me! Well, what you may not find quite so perfect is the price – £1,099 for the full-size Morso Forno (there’s a smaller, cheaper one too), or £1,699 for the full-on Garden Kit with the little trolly et al. But, when you think of all the summertime fun it guarantees, is that really such a crazy price to pay? (Perhaps best not to answer that, eh?) ✱ Check out the Morso Forno range at Chippenham’s RW Knight & Son;

Buys for baking

House call


As crafty couple Emma and Richard Edwards are founders of both a picture-framing and homeware shop and a printing company, we had an inkling their gaff was going to be interesting… Words by JESSICA CARTER Photos by PETER GOODRUM


( house call )

Emma and Richard never buy complete matching sets of crockery, instead prefering a more eclectic look


( house call )

ichard and Emma Edwards – the duo behind Thornbury homeware store, Surroundings – always knew that kitting out this kitchen wasn’t going to be a straightforward affair. “We don’t have standard taste. This isn’t a standard room. It was never going to be a standard kitchen,” says Richard. We’re standing with them both in their quirky little Wotton-under-Edge kitchen, drinking coffee and eyeing up the banana and raspberry cake that Emma is turning out of a loaf tin for us. “I’ve done that classic thing they always do on the Bake Off,” she says. “This is the first time I’ve ever made it, so I’m not too sure what it’ll have turned out like!” (Made with wholewheat spelt flour, it tastes wholesome and has a lovely moist texture with sweet, sharp bursts of raspberry. We knew you were wondering...) The reason this room isn’t a ‘standard’ one is that it’s in a charming (if a little challenging to decorate) 19th-century terrace, originally built for workers of the nearby mill. Irregular angles and thick Victorian walls may well add lovely character and make the space unique, but they ain’t popular with many builders, the pair tell us – at least not when mixed with their specific plans for the room.

43 12 Gloucester Street, Cirencester, Gloucestershire GL7 2DG

Where you can always be assured of a warm welcome… Lower Oddington, Glos, GL56 0UR 01451 870555 | | Chilled curried apple soup with crisp leeks and mint 6.50 Imam bayeldi with minted yoghurt and flat bread Smoked ham hock terrine, celeriac remoulade 7.00 Chicory, Roquefort, fig and walnut salad 6.50 Baked Camembert with garlic, rosemary and a black cherry compôte (for two) 12.50 Twice baked mature cheddar soufflé with chive cream 7.50 Heritage tomato, mozzarella and basil salad 7.00 Mr Cox’s asparagus with olive oil, balsamic and shaved Parmesan 7.00 Sauté tiger prawns with ginger, chilli garlic and mint 9.50 Charcuterie board, celeriac remoulade and cornichons 8.50/13.50 Char-grilled Rib eye steak 19.50 28 day aged sirloin steak 22.50 Both served with watercress salad, French fries and béarnaise Onion and thyme tart with mixed leaves 9.50 Corn fed chicken breast, asparagus, pea and mint risotto 16.00 Pan – seared calf’s liver, baby onion, sage butter and mashed potato 15.50 Fillet of hake, broad bean, pea, shallot and mint vinaigrette 16.50 Beer battered Cod and chips, tartare sauce and pea purée 14.50 Grilled lamb cutlets and braised lamb breast with crushed potatoes and spinach 17.50 Slow cooked Pork belly, oriental salad, chilli, coconut and coriander relish 15.50 Pan fried fillet of seabass, creamed fennel and new potatoes £16.95 Half a lobster, lambs lettuce, potato and chive mayonnaise Mr Cox’s strawberries and clotted cream 7.50 Chocolate fondant with salted caramel, almond brittle and raspberry sorbet 7.50 Lemon Posset 6.50 Eton Mess 6.50 Raspberry tartlet 7.00 Orange and Campari granite 6.00 Selection of cheese with fig and apple chutney, grapes and celery 7.50 Barkham Blue, Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire, Brie de meaux

Locally renowned for our great food, warm hospitality and attentive service.

Restaurant open lunch & dinner Popular Sunday roasts from £12.95 Bar open all day • Camra member Al fresco dining in our pretty garden Functions & Special Occasions Ample free parking

Bookings or enquiries 01285 659711

( house call )


Pops of bright, contrasting colours in the clean, white room make the space feel fun

“Lots of builders just didn’t want to know,” says Richard. “We had to change the plumbing because the sink was up there” – he points into the extension, which now serves as a utility room – “and no-one wanted to bore through this thick wall. They all came up with ideas, but we just didn’t really like any of them.” These guys knew what they wanted, though, and eventually managed to find someone to do the hardcore builder jobs while they put the rest together themselves. Now, cream metro tiles with dark grouting cover the wall behind the cooker and counter space, while the opposite end of the room is plastered in playful wallpaper, illustrating scenes from Paris in spring. A bench, which sits at the dining table that Richard made, is painted to match its backdrop, and there’s also a tall white dresser, with a marble top that was sourced separately from London. Meanwhile, some shelving came from a customer of the shop. (Well, if you own a homeware store you’ve got to make good use of your contacts, right?) Surroundings, which is just behind Thornbury High Street, was opened by

the pair 12 years ago, and Emma has recently left her job as a drama teacher to go full-time there, while Richard juggles that with their new business, The Fine Art Printing Company. See, Richard is a dab hand with a pencil, specialising in drawing buildings. Wall art, tea towels and cards carrying his designs are all stocked at the shop. One of his pieces – ‘140 Buildings’ – hangs on the kitchen wall in a cool, chunky orange frame, alongside a far more classical painting by local artist Jane Lampard (who is based only about five miles from this very gaff), and multiple other pieces that make up a varied collection. When we ask about their taste in art, Richard cites David Hockney as a big inspiration (indeed, the use of bright colour in the kitchen definitely shows whispers of the pop artist), while Emma’s taste is largely more classical. The couple’s difference in style, then, must be responsible for the fun, eclectic look of this unique little kitchen, which was – as you may be able to tell – very much a collaborative project.


Name: Emma and Richard Edwards. Hometowns: Swindon/Thornbury. Occupations: Fine art printer/artist/ picture-framer/shop owner. Richard’s must-have kitchen item: Sea salt. Emma loves the taste of... Cinnamon and almonds. Coffee or tea? Depends on the time of day – both in equal measure.  Beer or cider? Cider in the sun, beer by the fire. Five people Emma would invite to her dinner party, dead or alive: Tracy Chapman, my grandpa, Stephen Fry, Mozart and Degas. And Richard? David Hockney, Eddie Vedder, Ray Mears, Kelly Slater and Cindy Crawford.  Go-to recipe: Risotto with mackerel or homemade veggie lasagne with butter beans. The look of your kitchen in three words: Homely, bold, bright.  If Emma could change one thing about the kitchen it would be... The addition of a separate larder, full of homemade granola and preserves... and chocolate!   Richard’s most prized item: My Jane Lampard original of Coombe Hill in the snow. Emma’s preferred midnight nosh: Richard’s homemade chocolate crispies.   What are you going to cook/bake this weekend? Probably homemade pizza on naan bread – it’s always a favourite with the kids.  Unexpected item in your kitchen cupboard: Scooter puncture repair kit and a Ninja Turtle. You can’t live without... Radio 2 playing at breakfast.  Richard’s favourite condiment: Tabasco sauce. If your kitchen could talk, it’d say...  Huckleberry, get off the table. And Gus, you can dance with your trousers on.  ✱;


Sweeten up your kitchen antics with these best buys for baking


1 SILICONE BAKING SHEET £9.95 Canny cooks know the benefits of baking on silicone sheets: they’re totally hygienic, heat-resistant to 260C, naturally non-stick, and wash up in seconds. Pick yours up from Scots of Stow, Stow-on-the-Wold. ✱


2 LOVE BIRD COOKIE CUTTERS £3.75 These two love bird-shaped biscuit cutters are super tweet! They’ve got a 1 inch depth, and are great for your romantic or party bakes. From The Hambledon at Cowley Manor. ✱ 3 SIDE PLATES £9.95 each Serve up your makes ’n’ bakes with a dash of pizazz on these porcelain side plates featuring cool pooches in specs. From Joules in Cirencester. ✱



4 KITCHENAID 4.8L STAND MIXER £399 It’s the Ferrari of the kitchen, and no matter how competent a cook you are you can always up your game with the cool KitchenAid. This one’s in ice blue. From Waitrose in Cirencester. ✱ 5 MESSAGE STAMP SET £7.25 What makes a homemade biscuit even better? When it’s got yer name on it (so no one can steal it)! Use these stamps to print names (or messages) on your bakes. From Lakeland in Cheltenham. ✱




delicious diner

Situated in the heart of Frampton Industrial estate, formerly the home of Cadbury’s, Mrs Massey’s can be found in the original changing rooms which have been transformed into a contemporary diner offering breakfasts, coffees, lunches and afternoon tea – all cooked freshly to order using local ingredients.

Unit 5 - 7 // Frampton Industrial Estate // Bridge Road Frampton on Severn // Gloucestershire // GL2 7HE 01452 740016 //

Enjoy personal service & great 2 AA rosette food at this family owned & run former vicarage. The perfect venue for catching up with friends and family. Find us in the heart of the countryside yet only minutes from the M4. Set in 7.5 acres of gardens we’re home to 4 bee-hives and a vineyard where we grow our own still and sparkling wine.



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| V IN

‘NORTH COTSWOLD CAMRA’ SEASONAL PUB OF THE YEAR 2016 Character Pub with stone walls and flagstone floors Casual Dining – Excellent food served all day



Passionate about well kept ales Famous Inn located on the Fosse Way (A429) Stunning riverside garden – Al Fresco dining 9 beautiful en-suite bedrooms and two holiday cottages 01793 772100 • T @purtonpeartree The Pear Tree at Purton | Church End | Purton | Wiltshire | SN5 4ED

01285 720721 Fossebridge | Cheltenham | GL54 3JS

Family run country pub situated in the village of Andoversford. Find fine dining inspired dishes mixed with pub classic, all expertly cooked and presented, using locally sourced beef and pork. Great selection of cask ales and fine wines.

Call for a reservation: 01242 821426 email:



Fresh, British flavours are must-haves in modern desserts, say Cotswold chefs Page 51


The kids are breaking up... Oh my! Here are 10 foodie activities to plan for the hols Page 56

Panna cotta – Italian? Top with a homegrown raspberry, and a dash of Gibson’s organic liqueur, and we say it’s decidedly British!




GOOSEBERRY RECIPE that’s not fooling anyone...


HOWARD ARMS Following our extensive refurbishment we are proud to announce that The Howard Arms is once again open for business!

The Howard Arms, Lower Green, Ilmington, Nr Shipton-on-Stour, Warwickshire CV36 4LT

01608 682 226



Situated in the village of Oakridge Lynch, we serve fresh home cooked food & real ales.

A traditional Cotswold country pub offering locally sourced beers and food within a beautiful rural setting with fantastic panoramic views

The Quoin – Our Self Catering cottage is ideal for overnight stays and weekends away in the heart of the Cotswolds.

The Butchers Arms | Oakridge Lynch | Stroud | Glos | GL6 7NZ Tel: 01285 760371 |

The Mount Inn at Stanton, Nr Broadway, Worcs. WR12 7NE  Tel: 01386 584316






Here a little gold leaf, there a little pistachio cream. Cotswolds chefs are pushing boundaries when it comes to desserts, so we asked them for tips…

Food Fanatics Food Hall

Stocking a range of local, regional and international foods. From every day necessities to that little indulgence. Whilst you are browsing, why not stop for a sweet or savoury snack in our coffee shop and soak up the surroundings. OPEN EVERY DAY 12 North Street, Winchcombe, Gloucestershire GL54 5LH

01242 604466

Enjoy a spot of al fresco dining on our terrace, overlooking our stunning 40 acres of extensive grounds. We offer a fabulous bar and garden menu, plus light snacks and afternoon teas throughout the week. Also serving real ales and fine wines from around the world, an afternoon spent at the Mill House is the perfect way to relax with family and friends.

Kingham’s Best Kept Secret Kingham, Oxfordshire OX7 6UH Tel: 01608 658 188

Clockwise from left: gluten-free madeleines from A Handful of Flour; burnt custard with strawberry and basil from The Churchill Arms; Hobbs House’s lofty layer cake


udding to a lot of us is possibly the most exciting dish of a meal – a place where chefs can throw dietary restraints to the wind. Puddings aren’t required to fill us up or nourish us with our five-a-day – they’re purely there to send us home with a smile. And, these days, they’re doing that in novel ways. Here are eight new dessert trends, as identified by top local foodies who are renowned in the region for their sweet makes and bakes.


At Shipton Mill the founding family have always been on the lookout for wheatfree flours, not only to satisfy customers with food intolerences, but because they truly believe that fabulously flavoured speciality flours can give dishes an edge. Around a quarter of the recipes are wheat-free in the founder’s daughter’s new book, A Handful of Flour (£27, Headline). The author, Tess Lister, says her favourite is a plum crumble. “For the flour topping I use brown rice flour and just a small amount of tapioca starch,” she says. “I add butter, soft light brown sugar and a bit of vanilla powder. The rice flour is coarser than soft wheat flours so you get more bite to the topping, and I quite like that. I also love using brown rice flour in my muscovado date pudding. It happens to be gluten free, but my rule is that nothing should go in just for the sake of being glutenfree; it should taste good, and the flour should work well on its own merits.” Katriona MacGregor, founder of food blog Katriona’s Kitchen, agrees.

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and basil. It’s a real winner. I make a set custard then slice strawberries and marinade them with sugar and fresh basil for about two hours. The combined flavour is just amazing.”


“Cooks are steering away from dairy and gluten-based desserts and coming up with all sorts of imaginative alternatives – making ice cream from coconut milks and yoghurt, for instance, or working with more unusual flours such as my current favourite, chestnut flour. The pudding options are looking much brighter for those with intolerances.”


As Brits start to steer away from supersweet flavours, herbs are starting to make a big appearance in desserts, especially at The Churchill Arms, Paxford. Proprietor and head chef Nick Deverell-Smith, who loves using local produce in his menus, reveals: “Chefs are using a lot more ingredients like herbs and cress. I have used lavender in panna cotta, and lemon thyme with white peaches and meringue. Another winner is mint and chocolate. I have basil, mint and soft thyme pots all on my window ledge at home, and I’m always using these to flavour cakes and granola. “I have just put on the menu a burnt English custard with local strawberries


Seasonality is everything when it comes to the folks at Gibson’s Organic Liqueurs. “Local and seasonal produce makes complete sense from so many different standpoints,” says sales and marketing manager Rosalind West. “Food that’s been pre-packed, frozen and carted halfway around the world is never going to be bursting with as much flavour and goodness as, say, a really ripe strawberry from your local farmer’s market. “The fruit grown on our farm is straight from the field, and our favourite summer desserts revolve around these. Think towering Eton mess with chewy meringue piled high with strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants and a drizzle of raspberry liqueur. Or maybe a summer pudding with the fruits steeped in blackcurrant liqueur for a few hours. My favourite trick is to make a simple reduction of liqueur (just cook it down for about five minutes) to make a jewelled syrup, perfect alongside a panna cotta or good ice cream.”


“The trend for healthy food has gone mad over the last five years,” says head pastry chef at Daylesford, Stephen Tarling. “People are looking more closely at what they are eating, as well as the ingredients in their favourite sweet treats or snacks. Low-sugar or sugar alternatives are becoming

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CRANBERRY and ALMOND BITES Stephen Tarling’s fruit and nut bites – part of the Daylesford Eat to be Healthy range – will still give you that dessert-time sweet fix, but with less of an instant sugar spike and more slowreleasing energy. INGREDIENTS

240g flaked almonds 60g desiccated coconut 85g porridge oats 250g dried cranberries 100g dried apricots 60g sunflower seeds 60g pumpkin seeds 150g dried apple rings 120g orange juice METHOD

– Place almonds, coconut and oats on separate trays and brown them in the oven. – In a food blender, add all dry ingredients little by little and blend as fine as you can get. – Put the dry ingredients into a tabletop mixer with a paddle and add the orange juice. Mix well until all the ingredients come together; you may need to add a bit more juice, if required. Press the mixture into approx 3cm-deep baking tray. Press as flat as you can get it. – Leave overnight to chill. Once chilled, turn out onto a chopping board and cut into 3cm square cubes. Place in conventional oven on the lowest setting and dry for 4 hours.

Pudding presentation: a perfect spiral created by a record player (left), and a ‘printed’ fruit coulis

more popular, and people are using ingredients like coconut sugar, honey and maple syrup in home baking.”


The puddings that Nick Bennett serves up at Restaurant 56, Sudbury House Hotel in Faringdon are pretty special – think lemon curd with dill meringue and toffee apple cheesecake with Granny Smith sorbet. Despite the flavours always being top-notch, he says that these days presentation is key. “Presentation trends vary widely,” he reckons. “I’m using a couple of great techniques currently. One, believe it or not, is a record player! We use it at Restaurant 56 to create the perfect spiral of purée on the plate. I also use a simple circular plastic lid to leave a ‘print’ effect by pressing it down on a fruit coulis.”


The popularity of baking is a trend that’s on an unstoppable rise – and the size of cakes is too, says Henry Herbert from Hobbs House Bakery. “Recently we have been making lots of layer cakes at the bakery,” he reveals. “These are big, bold and beautiful cakes that are stacked too high and cut into ridiculous portions. We have been making some real knockout ones flavoured with mango, passion fruit and coconut. They are relatively easy to make, and are great for a party.”


“Now’s the time that ’80s and ’90s babies are in their 20s and 30s and eating out more with their friends, which is why fun, old-school sweets are coming back into fashion,” says Steph Kyte from The Star Inn at Whiteshill. “They’re colourful things like waffles and


pineapple turnovers and popcorn. Our baked caramel cheesecake topped with chocolate popcorn and butterscotch sauce is a favourite.”


“Trends come and go, don’t they?” says Jill Coombe, director of Three Ways House Hotel and its renowned ‘Pudding Club’. The Pudding Club is a weekly meet held every Friday for pudding fanatics. The club started light-heartedly to “prevent the demise of the Great British pudding”, and even though they do offer twists on some traditional recipes, guests mainly come to them for their steamed offerings. “The Charlotte is an example where we use passion fruit today,” says Jill. “And we’ve had a delicious salted caramel sponge pudding, which goes down well at meetings. But Pudding Club guests come for the traditional puddings, which they don’t want to cook at home as they often involve steaming.” YOUR SWEET CONTACTS THE CHURCHILL ARMS, DAYLESFORD ORGANIC FARM, GIBSON’S ORGANIC LIQUEURS, HOBBS HOUSE BAKERY, KATRIONA’S KITCHEN, THE PUDDING CLUB, SHIPTON MILL, THE STAR INN, SUDBURY HOUSE,

THE GRAPE ESCAPE Cheltenham wine bar with a weekly changing by the glass list and over 300 bottles to choose from

Wine tastings • Cheeses, charcuterie & snacks

Al Fresco Dining @ Magnolia Brasserie Open Monday to Sunday

Breakfast • Lunch • Afternoon Tea Picnic • Dinner

The Grape Escape • 10 Bath Road • GL53 7HA

Do you have a passion for pudding? Come to a meeting of The Pudding Club and indulge a little! Pudding Club meetings are held every Friday evening, Summer meetings have 3 hot favourites and 4 luscious cold puds for you to be tempted by! Book to stay overnight in a unique pudding theme room!

Mickleton, Chipping Campden, Glos, GL55 6SB T: 01386 438429 • E : •

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sumMer ho l


Six whole weeks (maybe more!) of minis on the loose in your home. Keep them out of mischief with these 10 top ways to have fun with food


Picking your own (PYO) is rewarding, means you get the freshest haul possible and will tire little ones out. At Over Farm in Over, Gloucester the picking fields are open now, with a great deal on strawberries and raspberries. There are animals too, including pigs, ostriches, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep, donkeys, and ponies. Entry is free. ✱


Once you’ve picked your produce (there are lots of farms in the Cotswolds, such as Primrose Vale in Bentham, that allow you to pick veg as well as fruits), get little ones involved in the next stage of food prep by cooking. There are heaps of child-friendly recipes online, or try this one provided by Robert from Cogges Kitchen in Witney... “Put 250g gooseberries into a pan on a medium heat with 3 tbsp caster sugar and a dash of water. Cook until the berries have broken down and can easily be ‘squashed’ with a fork.

Put aside in the fridge to chill. Whip 200ml double cream and 2 tbsp icing sugar in a bowl with a handheld mixer or hand whisk (this is a great job for your little helper). When the cream can ‘stand up’ in peaks, it’s done. Fold the whipped cream and 200g Greek yoghurt together with a metal spoon. Put a teaspoon of ginger preserve into the bottom of each serving glass or bowl, followed by the chilled gooseberry mixture. Top with the cream mixture and crumble some ginger biscuit onto the top of each one.”


Cogges Farm in Witney is a great place to visit, with farm animals to hold and learn about, and a wild play area in the woods with rope bridges and climbing frames. There are daily family activities, including one food-based or cooking activity a week. The delicious new café, Cogges Kitchen, is now open too, with lots of room for pushchairs and prams and a fenced-in play area outside the café. The children’s menu has dishes


freshly made for £2.50 each, or you can pick up a children’s picnic bag for £4.50, including a drink. ✱

4 PAINT YOUR OWN PLATES Got a mini who’s not keen to come to the table? Mealtimes are more fun if you can eat off personalised crockery. There are tons of kits you can buy online to get creative at home, or if you want to keep your house splashfree the Paint it Yourself Pottery Co is open in Cheltenham seven days a week, Monday-Saturday 10am-5.30pm and Sunday 11am-4pm. What’s more, all your final makes will be food and dishwasher-safe. ✱

5 HIT THE FESTIVAL CIRCUIT We’ve got it on good authority that The Big Feastival (26-28 August, Heath Farm, Kingham) is the festival to attend if you’ve got kids in tow. Nathan Outlaw says it’s the only festival he never misses, and he always brings along his family

o liDay SOS as there’s so much for them to do. This year there’s a kids’ kitchen focusing on encouraging more young cookaholics; the family Olympics (Rio 2016 ain’t seen nothing); Dick and Dom making an appearance; a funfair; and a designated ‘Big Top’, with family yoga classes and music workshops. There are bands that teens and 20somethings will love too, as well as tons of space to kick back, run and camp. Camping tickets are from £16 for under-12s. Kids get free day tickets. ✱ thebigfeastival



There are matches at Kirtlington Park Polo Club throughout the week until September, with finals every Sunday or bank holiday Monday. At some of the most important matches there’s a £10 admission fee, but the majority are free. Jules, who runs The Secret Supper Society in Somerton, says it’s a grand day out: “Dogs and children are welcome, and you can take a picnic and enjoy the action from the beautiful park surroundings.” ✱

A proper picnic can be turned into a whole day’s activity – there’s the making, baking, prepping and packing, then the journey, eating, games and trip home. Plan a long walk that will deposit you at a scenic picnic spot with the help of or A wooded destination is great if the weather looks changeable. For no-tech games, try frisbee rounders or egg and spoon races (if the eggs don’t all get gobbled). Top picnic spots include Abbey Park in Evesham, Mallards Pike Lake at The Forest of Dean, and Robinswood Hill Country Park in Gloucester.

Cotswold Farm Park in Kineton makes a great day out at any time of year, but over the summer they really up the ante when it comes to activities: there’s an outdoor skills week, circus skills week and storytelling week, where you can get lost in a real life book that stars the park’s animals. Plus, a big harvest week that teaches tons on the ‘from field to fork’ story. See website for dates. ✱



We’re all praying for a ‘scorchio’ forecast, and should it deliver it’s great to escape to the water. The Cotswolds Water Park


is packed with heaps of water-based activities for minis, and elsewhere in the Cotswolds there are great rivers and tributaries to picnic by and fish in, and pretty canals too. Put 21 August in your diary for when The Wharf House in Highnam outside Gloucester holds its annual Canal Festival, with donkey rides, aqua zorbing, rock climbing, face painting, music, model boats and more. ✱


If you’re looking for value when you eat out then head to the Seven Tuns in Chedworth, where kids can eat top grub for £10, including main, dessert and drink. There’s plenty of space under the huge weeping willow and on the secluded terrace for kids to run around. If it’s raining there are large family tables to sit and draw at, or kids can take a ride on the wooden rocking horse. In the skittle alley cartoons play on the big screen, plus the old stables outside are currently having a makeover which will include a play den. Meals for adults include roasted celeriac and garlic soup (£5), salmon fillet with fennel and marinated tomato (£16) and apricot and frangipan tart (£6). ✱



FIX UP, LOOK SHARP The refurbished Painswick makes a dreamy destination

The meat’s a real treat at Jesse’s Bistro, Cirencester

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Dangerously good fodder at The Churchill Arms, Paxford


The Painswick: no better retreat for an apocalyptic afternoon




savoury soufflés that are not just hot air

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THE CHURCHILL ARMS Head to Paxford for a fine feed at a very fair price. Charlie Lyon sticks her neck out and declares it’s where you’ll find some of the best grub in the Cotswolds


hen it comes to the local restaurant scene, there are lots of try hards. You want to love them, because they care sso o much much; because they have a beautiful location or a knock-out venue venue; or they serve great cocktails or are bursting with passion and zeal zeal. But when it comes to food food, they miss the mark. It happens, but not here in Paxford. Head chef and proprietor of The Churchill Arms, Nick Deverell-Smith, is trying hard and he’s succeeding. The lunch I had there on a sunny June day is the best I’ve had in the Cotswolds since I started covering the patch five foodie months ago (and believe me, I’ve been dining out a lot – from the most decadent venues to the most rustic). For a start, the service is top notch – casual and friendly friendly, with staff who totally rub you up the right way from the off. They know their stuff too – quick to offer beer and wine pairings and personal preferences with just the right amount of modesty. The locals love it here too, and to them Nick is a bit of a hero figure – he saved the beloved 17th century pub from rack and ruin (it had been standing empty for some time before he took it over and renovated in February last year). They come for a drink, they come for the food, they come for his pie

nights, fizz Fridays and special one-off menus – like a recent asparagus dinner that, at just £30 a head for a threecourse meal, sounds like an absolute bargain. The locals are all ages, all wealths and creeds, and they praise him for bringing back a sense of community through the new and improved local. Beers on tap are hyper-local and served fresh and cool in a gleaming glass. Purity’s Pure Gold (from just above Stratford) kick-starts my appetite, and washes down our surprise prestarters perfectly – they’re chicken and tarragon croquettes that rival the best I’ve chomped in Spain. Unbeknownst to me, I choose Nick’s signature dish as a starter – smoked haddock soufflé with a chive velouté. It’s super-pretty – the uniform chopped chives giving it a geometric wow that wouldn’t look out of place in the Tate Modern. It’s such a shame to spoon into it, but I do, and shovel down the creamy, fluffy smokey spongey soufflé in about three huge gobbles. Across the table, homemade toast is piled properly high with fresh, juicy crab, avocado and a creamy brown crab mayonnaise. It’s £10, but with an extra piece of toast we could have left lunch there and been satisfied. The specials look supreme – calf’s liver with confit bacon, cider onions and mash; beef wellington to share –


but we’re looking at the lighter side of life today. My main is a herb gnocchi (more potatoey than doughy) topped with a generous helping of the freshest, greenest, nuttiest asparagus and fresh peas that pop with flavour. There’s a perfectly poached egg to top it all off. Compadré H is on a fishy roll, and her main wins this round for artistic endeavour – the red mullet is piled high with shaved fennel and samphire, their pretty pink fish tails artistically poking out for that smack of modernity. Despite me always picking my dishes first, she manages to get top trump when it comes to puds too – a raspberry eclair with raspberry cream and a deep, bitter-sweet chocolate crumb. My deconstructed cheesecake, though, comes served on fresh clementine segments and is light and fruity – perfect for lunch. With a brilliant set menu (£17 for two courses) and a seating area with stunning Cotswold views, it’s no wonder both the locals and touring foodies are celebrating the re-opening of this brilliant pub. What’s more, if you’re coming from afar they have two rooms in which you can bunk up for the night. Bonus! ✱ THE CHURCHILL ARMS, Paxford, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL55 6HX; 01386 593159;

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THE PAINSWICK Pretty as a picture, with punchy food and some real nice wines to boot – that’s The Painswick. It’s well worth the trip, says Charlie Lyon


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e all love a bargain, and we all love a spot of luxury too, so get a taste of the two by starting your Painswick experience in the town’s central car park, which costs just a pound for a couple of hours. Yes, you can park at The Painswick hotel itself (today’s lunch destination) for free, but personally I hate sullying the picturesque corners of this Gloucestershire town with vehicles and hot tempers. From the car park you also get to walk through the grounds of iconic St Mary’s church, taking in the views, its iconic tower and the famous yew trees. It’s pretty spectacular. The approach to the newly refurbished Painswick hotel is pretty spectacular too – it’s a handsome, 18th century house with echoes of the Arts and Crafts movement. It’s been brought into the Calcot Collection (alongside Calcot and Barnsley House), renowned for its luxury hotels and spas, and has scrubbed up rather well. The grounds are manicured with lovely lawns, outside seating and herb beds, and the interiors have been brought bang up to date with Farrow & Ball walls, seagrass carpets and luxe bedrooms. The living areas in this hotel are the real deal, too. There’s a bright and colourful bar with tempting gins and fine wines. The lounge has an open fire, comfy seats and smattering of aspirational reads on the coffee tables. It’s advisable to set aside an extra bit of time to soak up the atmosphere, both before and after your main feed, with aperitifs and coffees in the bar or garden to make the most of your visit. I love the entrance to the restaurant, too: you have to glide past the ubermodern wood-burning oven, and a counter with piles of fresh bread and charcuterie, to enter an upbeat room of sanded-back wooden tables and comfy seats upholstered in colour pops of blue and mustard. Although posh, nothing here takes itself too seriously – there are jaunty fonts on the menus, and illustrated stories about the winemakers. And while the guests are well-to-do, there’s a very relaxed vibe. Staff are well-informed and settle us down with a perfectly picked Grenache and a Saint-Cyrgues Blanc. When it comes to menus, chef Michael Bedford keeps them short (the best way, I reckon), and prides himself

on bringing ‘punchy, contemporary food’ to the table. My starter’s punchy, alright – labneh cheese in a bric pastry cone (pastry that’s thin and deep-fried) with heritage tomatoes (£9). It sounds delicious, and looks like the most fun starter I’ve eaten for an age, but sadly the herb cheese was so pungent that it drowned out everything else. Across the table, though, the Parmesan soufflé with smoked haddock and spinach (£10) is well-balanced and creamy – it’s the chowder mum loves brought well up to date. There’s meat on the menu for mains: chicken kiev, confit duck leg and rib-eye steak, which all look succulent and juicy as they’re swept past on plates, carried to fellow diners on adjacent tables. But our starters were rich, so we opt to share a pizza and side salad and give that wood-burning oven a run for its money. The pizza is pizza bianco, with a light and creamy cheese base loaded with Iberico ham – good thick slabs that we flight over till the end. There’s a good smattering of truffle too, resulting in a pungent, salty, creamy experience that I’d go back for again. Despite sharing a main, we’re still too full to do more than share a pud (all £8), too. I’m pretty chuffed with our passion fruit cheesecake, though, which actually comes in a shell of biscuit. It looks like a sandcastle, and tastes like a premium dessert. I dip the excess biscuit in the


sides of vanilla ice cream and vanilla custard (perhaps OD-ing on the dairy a little), and the flavours are spot on. Then we retreat to the outdoor seating to take in the views from the garden with a coffee. It’s tough to leave this place, and I decidedly regret being tight – and only stumping up for two hours on that cheap parking meter. ✱ THE PAINSWICK, Kemps Lane, Painswick, Gloucestershire GL6 6YB; 01452 813688;

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There’s a familial vibe that’s loved by locals here at this historic restaurant in Cirencester, says Charlie Lyon


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ou might have heard of Jesse if you’re from in, or around, Cirencester. Well, at least his butcher’s. Jessie Smith is a family-owned business that has been running since 1808, and now they have a few shops in the region. They used to own the restaurant next door – Jesse’s – but sold it a few years back to concentrate on their main butchery business. It now has new owners who are keeping the concept and chef, but looking to pull in new diners with an updated menu. The butcher’s is pretty easy to locate, but the restaurant is back off the street – you’ll find the entrance down a cobbled side street that is actually worth the adventure in itself. It’s a large space, but one that gives you a warm welcome as you enter past the open kitchen with impressive wood-burning oven that blasts out heat. “It’s great in the winter time,” says the chef-on-duty, as we stop to admire it. Good thing for him our summers always come with a chill, too. The restaurant’s well-known to locals, and to returning tourists. In fact, as I sit down today, co-owner Vanessa is being complimented on how, only a few months ago, they quite readily

accommodated a guest’s daughter, who had some pretty strict dietary requirements. (Either that, or she was super-fussy – I couldn’t quite catch!) There’s a set menu on at lunchtime today that promises value-for-money bistro classics – smoked salmon or Serrano ham to start; mains like fish and chips or braised lamb; and sticky toffee pudding or crème brulée for afters. It’s £19.50 for two courses, but I don’t have dietary restrictions so am keen to adventure through the à la carte menu. The meat here is all from Jesse Smith’s butcher next door, which I’m keen to try out, and – seeing as it’s lunchtime – something meaty to start, rather than for mains, suits me. I’m assured the ham hock terrine (£8) is homemade (as is everything here), so I pick that. True to Vanessa’s word, it’s juicy and meaty with a good smack of salt (though not too much), and is served with rye toast, a few leaves and a slick of fruit purée. When it comes to the main event, the choices all look solid: Cotswold lamb cannon with black garlic purée and Wye Valley asparagus (£21), and Freemans of Newent chicken with baby leeks and fondant potato (£20). But they’re a few


pounds more, perhaps, than most would like to spend at lunch. In the end I pick the gilt-head bream that’s served with broad bean and pea-crushed potato (£20.50). The fresh peas are delicious, and there’s Evesham asparagus too, all finished nicely with a smoky fish cream. A flick of the page on the classic menu reveals the puds, which are all-time favourites pimped by modern trims – lemon meringue with raspberry coulis, carrot cake with carrot purée and chai tea ice cream, and chocolate cheesecake with Malteser ice cream. The hefty £8 price tag means I want to get the most bang for my buck, so plump for the poached pear and Amaretto panna cotta. I love a pear, and this one is perfectly mulled, juicy and spicy. With a good wine list and a dedicated team of staff – from attentive waiters to passionate chefs and caring management – you’ll get looked after at Jesse’s. There are outdoor tables too, so pop by before the summer’s out to experience a taste of Cirencester in the cool, cobbled courtyard. ✱ JESSE’S, The Stableyard, Black Jack Street, Cirencester GL7 2AA; 01285 641497;

Little black book Owners of The Grape Escape Ant Davies and Zoe Fisher talk their fave grub in Cheltenham

BREAKFAST? We love the Americana

theme at Smokey Joe’s. And what’s not to like about the Elvis sandwich? BEST BREW? The Coffee Dispensary


Now add this little lot to your contacts book Smokey Joe’s, Cheltenham GL50 4ED; The Coffee Dispensary, Cheltenham GL50 1HE; Gloucester Services, M5 GL4 0DN; The White Spoon, Cheltenham GL50 3JX; The Strand, Cheltenham GL52 3AU; Lumiere, Clarence Parade, Cheltenham GL50 3PA; Purslane, Cheltenham GL50 1JJ; Zi Coffee & Bake Shop, Cheltenham GL52 2SA; Prithvi, Cheltenham GL53 7HG; Kibou Sushi, Cheltenham GL50 1HE; Falafel Eat, Cheltenham; The Ox, Cheltenham GL50 1JS; Real Burger, Cheltenham GL52 2SQ; Simpsons Fish & Chips, Cheltenham GL52 5AL; Bell’s Diner & Bar Rooms, Bristol BS6 5QB; Olé Tapas, Bath BA1 2JL;

hasn’t been open that long, but now it’s the only coffee option – the selection and passion is incredible. FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP? Every time we head down the M5 means another reason to visit Gloucester Services – we love how it shouts so proudly about the great produce available in Gloucestershire. SUNDAY LUNCH? We don’t often get the chance to eat Sunday lunch out, but when we do it’s at The White Spoon – you recognise traditional favourites, and appreciate the modern twist. QUICK PINT? The first place we usually end up on a day off is The Strand. Its great burgers go really well with the monthly changing beer selection, and sitting in the beer garden just tops it all off.

BEST CURRY? Not sure it’s fair to call it a curry house, but Prithvi produces the most imaginative and delicious food with an Indian influence… plus, we are their unofficial waiting room! BEST ATMOSPHERE? The one thing we were worried about when we left London was the lack of sushi, but, luckily, Kibou has it covered 100%, and the buzz in this tiny restaurant is great. TOP STREET FOOD? We don’t call it ‘falafel Friday’ for nothing – the Falafel Eat bike in the middle of Cheltenham high street is quick, delicious and great value. PRE-THEATRE FEED? You can’t beat the

early-bird steak, chips and glass of wine at The Ox – the meat is awesome, and it’s just across the road from us. BEST BURGER? We love Real Burger so

much that we often do burger nights with them at the bar – the peanut butter and jelly burger is to die for. It sounds odd, but tastes great!

POSH NOSH? Lumiere – quite simply

the best restaurant outside of London. John’s cooking and Helen’s wine matches are simply sensational. Michelin must have lost their phone number.

BEST TAKEAWAY? It has to be officially the best chippy in the UK: Simpsons Fish & Chips. Everything is so fresh and tasty, plus the ‘frickles’ (fried pickles) are crazy good. And they do gravy – bliss!

SEAFOOD? It makes us cry when we

can’t get to Purslane for their lobster evenings, but it helps that the seafood tastes so great every time, lobster or not. HIDDEN GEM? Zi Coffee & Bake Shop – they do possibly the best American pancakes we have come across on this side of the pond.


AWAY FROM CHELTENHAM? Don’t be surprised to find us on the train on Mondays to Bristol’s Bell’s Diner for their awesome sharing plates and crazy wine list; or at Bath’s Olé Tapas for a truly authentic Spanish experience. ✱

Crumbs Cotswolds - issue 44  
Crumbs Cotswolds - issue 44