Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine March-April 2020

INSIDE A STORYBOOK

UPCOUNTRY ESTATE

MARCH–APRIL 2020

Charting A New Course On Lāna‘i Chef’s Table IN PĀ‘IA

ISLAND LIVING HIKING THE WAIHE’E DUNES BY

VOL 24 / NO 2

US/CAN $4.95

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MOONLIGHT

Bali Hai: MAMA’S MUST-HAVE COCKTAIL

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This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy a unit. Nor is it an offering or solicitation of sale in any jurisdiction where the development is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where such offering or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. Obtain all disclosure docum will be subject to the terms of various documents relating to the development. The resort project described herein (the “Project”) and the residential units located within the Project (the “Residential Units”) are not owned, developed, or sold by Montage Hotels & Resorts, LLC, its affiliates or their respective licensors (co LLC uses the Montage brand name and certain Montage trademarks (collectively, the “Operator Trademarks”) in connection with the sales and marketing of the Residential Units in the Project under a limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable license from Montage. The foregoing license may be term

ments required by applicable laws and read them before signing anything. No governmental agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the development. Further, ownership of a unit in the development ollectively, “Montage�) and Montage does not make any representations, warranties or guaranties whatsoever with respect to the Residential Units, the Project or any part thereof. Island Acquisitions Kapalua minated or may expire without renewal, in which case neither the Residential Units nor any part of the Project will be identified as a Montage branded project or have any rights to use the Operator Trademarks.

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Banyan Tree With a focus on Hawaiian culture and local products, Head Chef Isabelle Toland brings her French and Filipino roots to Kapalua’s renowned and reimagined Banyan Tree restaurant.

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CONTENTS 42 ISLAND LIVING: FEATURES

36

ADVENTURE In the Realm Between Ao and Pō A full-moon hike through the Waihe‘e coastal dunes offers an entry into the land of wandering.

Story by Judy Edwards

42

HAWAIIAN SOUL To Know Lāna‘i Once Again Kepā Maly is restoring authenticity to the stories of the island he loves.

Story by Paul Wood

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ISLAND BUSINESS Precious Cargo Every issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi spends its first week traveling the Pacific.

We went along for the journey.

Story by Shannon Wianecki

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AT HOME Moemalie Dreaming At this one-of-a-kind Upcountry estate, there’s a surprise around every corner.

Above: Roberts' shot of a wide-open road on Lāna‘i captures the energy on the island these days, where change is bringing hope of both restoration and good things to come.

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BAILEY ROBERTS

Story by Sarah Ruppenthal ON THE COVER: Photographer Bailey Roberts' shot of Lāna‘i's southern cliffs, Pali o Kāholo, illustrates a place of great beauty and historical richness; legends from this area are bountiful as are the region's archeological sites.

A LO H A

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GRAND IMAGE BOUTIQUE

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CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS

18

BEHIND THE SCENES

The backstories on this issue's stories.

20

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Celebrating the gifts of liliko‘i and friendship.

by Diane Haynes Woodburn

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26

A virtuoso crafts instruments of rare beauty.

Sugar's story lives on in a Maui museum.

Story by Kathy Collins

Story by Kathy Collins

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TALK STORY: DAY IN THE LIFE The ‘Ukulele Master

TALK STORY: DAY IN THE LIFE Citizen Cane

TALK STORY: IN SEASON Spring Cleaning

@MAUINŌKA‘OI Tag, We're It!

‘Awapuhi is a natural shampoo and then some.

Story by Shannon Wianecki

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30

GREAT FINDS Green To Go Compiled by Shanoaleigh Marson

108

WHO’S WHO

Seen making the scene on Maui.

110

HOT LIST

What’s happening where, when, and with whom.

114

PERFECT DAY South for Sand and Sunlight Seeking gold underfoot and gold in the sky.

Story by Lehia Apana

DINING

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DINING FEATURE Small is Beautiful At Nylos, the meals are intimate and inspired.

Story by Becky Speere

84

DINING HIGHLIGHTS The Joy of Cooking Cheery in the kitchen with Alex Stanislaw.

Compiled by Becky Speere

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MAUI MIXOLOGY Bali Hai May Call You A dream world comes to life in a cocktail glass.

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DINING GUIDE

A short list of favorite places to eat on the island.

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RYAN SIPHERS

Story by Becky Speere

Publisher

Diane Haynes Woodburn

Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director Paul B. Morris

Senior Editor Rita Goldman

EDITORIAL

Managing Editor Lily Stone Dining Editor Becky Speere Home & Garden Editor Sarah Ruppenthal Great Finds Editor Shanoaleigh Marson Website Manager Adelle Lennox

Associate Art Director Shanoaleigh Marson

Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales Representative Felix Sunny D’Souza Advertising Sales Representative Elisa Jae Advertising Sales 808-242-8331

ART

MARKETING & ADVERTISING

CIRCULATION & ADMINISTRATION

Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. Controller Kao Kushner Subscriptions & Office Manager Nancy Wenske NEWSSTAND SALES & CIRCULATION

Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net

National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services

Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lehia Apana, Kathy Collins, Judy Edwards, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki, Paul Wood CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Bryan Berkowitz, Adi Ell-Ad, Aaron Lynton, Shanoaleigh Marson, Bailey Roberts, Travis Rowan, Ryan Siphers, Kim and Forest Starr CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

C. M. Butzer E-mail Address Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793.

Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.

Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net

Maui Nō Ka 'Oi Magazine is printed on acid- and chlorine-free paper from Sappi—an environmental leader in the industry whose paper products comply with the Forest Stewardship Council and Sustainable Forestry Initiative.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Paul Wood, who wrote “To Know Lāna‘i Once Again,” first encountered Kepā Maly in 1980 while chaperoning Maui teens on a week-long camping trip to Lāna‘i. “I picture Kepā standing on a wild shoreline exhorting the kids to pronounce the island’s name correctly.

Three syllables with a long first ‘a.’ Then he took us to the ‘storied places.’ I was astonished.”

Recipient of the Elliot Cades Award for Literature, Paul has published an abundance of stories about life as it is actually lived in the Islands. He teaches creative writing at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College. See more of his work at paulwoodwriter.com.

—Paul Wood “To Know Lāna‘i Once Again” page 42 Writer Kathy Collins is also a professional storyteller, comedian, actress, radio and television host, newspaper columnist, and a kama‘āina Maui girl. As such, she was delighted to spend a day with Edmond Tavares and his buddies to write “The ‘Ukulele Master.”

“My mom's sixty-year-old ‘ukulele was apparently homemade, a gift from a family friend. I showed it to Edmond, and he was able to tell me more about its maker, a local music teacher who taught himself how to build instruments for his students.

As Edmond pointed out, that was pretty amazing back in the days before YouTube!”

—Kathy Collins “Day In The Life: The ‘Ukulele Master,” page 22

BEHIND THE SCENES

What did it take for you to get this story?

“As a kid, I would stay outside so late on full moon nights that my mom would give up trying to call me in and go to bed,” says Judy Edwards, who wrote “In the Realm Between Ao and Pō” for this issue. “The world was black and silver and felt full of possibilities. So I was stoked to write about the moonlight hike at the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust preserve.” Edwards has worked in conservation, public lands advocacy, and environmental education since arriving in Hawai‘i in 1994. She writes often for MNKO and is also in the anthology A Mile In Her Boots.

—Judy Edwards “In the Realm Between Ao and Pō,” page 36

Shannon Wianecki misses her bunk aboard the Jean Anne, the cargo ship she sailed on to write “Precious Cargo” for this issue. Impressed by the caliber of the crew and the operations aboard Pasha’s flagship vessel, Wianecki is considering a career change. For now, she writes about culture, science, and travel for various publications including MNKO, Smithsonian, and BBC. For the last two years she has been named the Best Independent Journalist in Hawai‘i by the Society for Professional Journalists. She lives on Maui with her dog, Spike.

—Shannon Wianecki “Precious Cargo,” page 48

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N O T E

An abundance of aloha is one of the many gifts of life on Maui.

“W

hat?” I can hear my husband Jamie ask, his voice raised uncharacteristically. “A thousand pounds?!” He is on the deck of our house talking on the phone while I, still struggling to waken, am cradling my first cup of coffee at the dining room table. The double doors separating me from the golden glow of a Maui morning are wide open, welcoming the warming sun… and my husband’s growing alarm.

He comes in and announces, “I’ve got to go. Kimokeo has a thousand pounds of liliko‘i for me. I need to pick up the whole load now.”

My husband uses liliko‘i (passion fruit) harvested from the jungle in Ke‘anae to make a liliko‘i elixir that he'll freeze and later use for liliko‘i meringue pies (a family favorite), liliko‘i butter for friends and family, smoothies, cocktails, and even ice cubes. For those of you who have never collected liliko‘i— a task Jamie and I undertake every year during spring and summer months—let me tell you, a thousand pounds is a lot of fruit. Jamie’s old truck will moan under the weight.

A few hours later I am dressed to the nines, on my way to an appointment I can’t reschedule. Jamie is on the porch in full production mode. “Diane, come!” he calls out. “Taste this purple one!” He is eager to share each treasure. Most of the fruits are bright yellow, some are apple green or deeply golden, and a special few are the purple of a plum. He is taking them one by one from a huge bucket that contains but a fraction of the fruit he has unloaded in our garage. I shake my head. For one guy with a knife, a cutting board, and a blender, this is a long, lonely project.

Yet Jamie couldn’t be happier. Before I go, I pause to watch him work. He slices open the smooth egg-shaped orbs to reveal yolk-like centers dotted with black seeds. As the fruits fall open, he quickly grabs their halves, scooping their luscious content into a bowl. Once the bowl is full, he pours the treasure into a hand-held food mill that separates the juice from the seeds. The result is a deep orange elixir that smells intoxicating.

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As I join Jamie to taste the fruits (a job I can never refuse), I think of the stories in this issue and how special it is to have locally sourced food. As Shannon Wianecki explains in her story “Precious Cargo,” over eighty percent of what we consume in Hawai‘i is brought here from elsewhere and 98 percent of that arrives by ship, including the magazine in your hand. Learn with Shannon what it takes to bring it all home.

Of course, it wasn’t always this way. Ancient Hawaiians survived on the resources offered by the land, the ocean, and the spirits that illuminated their path. Meet Kepā Maly, a man who credits the lessons of his kūpuna (elders) for his very life. His mission is to bring ancient values into the present for his beloved home of Lāna‘i, an island now focused on the principles of preservation, progress, and sustainability as a viable model for a healthy future.

If you’re after a little adventure—on the dark side—then a full-moon hike through the Waihe‘e Refuge is just your cup of kava. Join Judy Edwards and the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust on a guided hike through giant sand dunes and the ghostly realm between ao (light) and pō (darkness).

Back to taste testing. I pronounce the purple ones my favorites and head for the driveway. There I see Kimokeo pulling in and another truck behind him. Seven smiling faces tumble out. “We’re here to help Jamie,” Kimokeo announces.

“We’ll stay until it’s done.” Just like that I am reminded once again why I love living on Maui. We may be 2,200 miles from the nearest continent but on an island you are never far from friends.

A hui hou,

Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher

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TALK STORY L I F E T H E I N D A Y

Edmond Tavares, seen here in his Maui workshop; he made his first ‘ukulele fifteen years ago and will soon make his hundredth .

THE ‘UKULELE MASTER

Edmond Tavares is just as humble and dynamic as the instrument he makes.

STORY BY KATHY COLLINS

A

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADI ELL-AD

sk Edmond Tavares how he became the guru of Maui’s ‘ukulele makers, and the lanky luthier laughs at the suggestion before shrugging it off.

He points to the craftsmen who have honored him with the unofficial title and says, “We’re all associates, we share ideas. I wouldn’t call myself an expert.

Those guys say things like that just so they can keep coming to the man cave.”

The man cave is Tavares’ woodworking shop and every Saturday up to half a dozen craftsmen gather there to build ‘ukulele. Most of them learned the basics of making ‘ukulele fifteen years ago, in the same adult education class, and they’ve been getting together ever since.

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Tavares took the class on a whim, after retiring from the construction business. “My whole adult life I’ve been building stuff,” he explains. “I’m not a musical person, but the class sounded fun. The first ‘ukulele I made looked awful and sounded worse. But the value was in learning all of the parts of the instrument and how they go together.”

Ninety or so ‘ukulele later, Tavares is now a senior member of both the Maui ‘Ukulele Guild and the statewide Hawai‘i ‘Ukulele Guild. Much as he downplays his influence and talents, others extol them; his fans include world-renowned luthier Steve Grimes, who lives on Maui and whose guitars have been displayed at

the Smithsonian. “Edmond is a mechanical genius. And extremely humble and generous,” says Grimes. “He’s got probably the best collection of wood on the island, and he happily shares it. And he has come to my rescue several times by creating unique jigs [specialized tools].”

Tavares won’t accept commissions or repair jobs because, he says, that’s “too much pressure.” While he has sold a few of his instruments, most were given away to friends and family or schools, churches, and charity auctions. “I’ve always enjoyed woodworking, but I’m 77 now,” he says. "Making ‘ukulele is a lot easier on the body than making bookshelves and rocking chairs.”

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TALK STORY

SPRING CLEANING Now is the season for ‘awapuhi.

STORY BY SHANNON WIANECKI

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F

ew plants growing in the Hawaiian rainforest delight kids as much as ‘awapuhi, or shampoo ginger. While hiking in ‘Īao Valley or alongside a stream in Hāna, sharp-eyed youngsters look for the bright red flowers sprouting at the base of slender, leafy stalks. The flowers, which resemble ruby-colored pinecones, are filled with slimy liquid—perfect for squeezing over your sibling’s head. The sudsy goo is a fine substitute for shampoo

in the wild. It softens and adds shine to hair, and has a sweet fragrance.

‘Awapuhi is not native to Hawai‘i; it originated in Southeast Asia, where traditional healers have used the hardy ginger to treat various ailments for thousands of years. Modern scientific studies confirm that it has anti-inflammatory properties.

When Polynesian voyagers set sail across the Pacific, they packed ‘awapuhi in their canoes. It is one of the twenty-seven species known as “canoe plants”—plants the first Hawaiians carried with them and relied on when colonizing these Islands.

Hawai‘i residents continue to use shampoo ginger in numerous applications—not merely as a ready-made soap. Practitioners of lā‘au lapa‘au (herbal medicine) apply the leaves of the ‘awapuhi plant as compresses to cuts and bruises, and mash the roots into a pulp to treat headaches, toothaches, and sprains.

Enterprising cooks layer ‘awapuhi stalks and leaves in the imu (underground oven) to flavor pork and fish. Kapa (barkcloth) makers perfume their malo (loincloths) pā‘ū (skirts) and moe kapa (bed sheets) with dried rhizomes sliced or ground into a powder.

As useful as ‘awapuhi is, it’s a fleeting pleasure. The deciduous plant flourishes during the spring and summer months, then dies back and goes dormant during winter. A Hawaiian proverb references this trait: ‘Awapuhi lau pala wale. Ginger leaves yellow quickly. It’s said of anything that passes too soon. So kids, the time is now. Gather ye soapsuds while ye may!

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TALK STORY M U S E U M S U G A R

Steam-driven: This 500-horsepower Nordberg steam engine began powering O‘ahu's Kahuku sugar mill in 1896; it's now on display at the Sugar Museum.

CITIZEN CANE

Modern Maui’s defining crop may be waning— but the museum that tells its story is flourishing.

I

n the shadow of the now-silent smokestacks of the Pu‘unēnē sugar mill, the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum remains a thriving proposition.

In fact, the shutdown of the mill four years ago brought with it a silver lining for the museum: The mill’s parent company, Alexander & Baldwin, offered the museum a longer-term, thirty-year lease and additional land to bring the grounds to four acres.

Though it shares the name of A&B, the museum is an independent, nonprofit organization, named for Maui sugar pioneers Samuel Thomas Alexan26

MAUIMAGAZINE.NET

der and Henry Perrine Baldwin. Museum director Holly Buland says the demise of Hawai‘i’s sugar industry underscored the importance of the museum’s mission to preserve the history and heritage of the industry as well as of the multiethnic plantation life that the sugar industry spawned. Inside the former home of the Pu‘unēnē plantation manager, the museum’s interactive multimedia exhibits cover nearly 170 years of local sugarcane history. On the grounds of the museum, visitors are dwarfed by a gigantic cane hauler and vintage tractors. There is also a mammoth steam engine that powered

O‘ahu’s Kahuku sugar mill. With the expansion to four acres, Buland hopes to add even more industrial-size exhibits, including the locomotive that pulled trainloads of raw sugar from the mill to Kahului harbor over a century ago. But, she says, the museum also intends to keep plenty of open space for community reunions, picnics, and festivals that celebrate the music, dance, and culture of Hawai‘i’s differing heritages.

Alexander & Baldwin Sugar Museum, 3957 Hansen Road, Pu‘unēnē, (808) 871-8058. Open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. www.sugarmuseum.com

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

STORY BY KATHY COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANOALEIGH MARSON

¹

SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS

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I T !

W E ' R E T A G ,

@33SCOOTTCAMPBELL

@MIDWESTGIRLADVENTURES

Kahana, Maui. Just another postcard-perfect snap I couldn’t resist taking :-) #clouds #goldenhour #hawaiilife

Today I wanted to share that I finally started that blog that I’ve talked about for many years...

I’m learning as I go. My first post is a travel guide for Maui. #flower #Maui #Hawaii

@SHOTSBYSCHOELLER The night in Maui near Big Beach when I was lucky enough to capture the Milky Way through the tree line. Miss you, Maui. #bigbeach #liveoutthere #roadtohappiness

@MAUIMAG

It’s official: Our readers love Maui as much as we do.

Thanks to everyone who tagged us—here are a few of our favorites. To join in, follow and tag us on Instagram @MauiMag. Aloha everyone! #MauiMag

@BAYDAY808 One of many jaw-dropping moments from yesterday's time on the water! We stumbled upon this solo whale showing off POWERFUL slaps right as the sun was about to set. Cannot wait to see what else this season has in store.đ&#x;‘? #whale #ourplanetdaily #pacificocean

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@BRONWYNI Pink sunsets are my favorite. Since I was a little girl, this has been my favorite beach. I know this photo is full of flaws... but like me... it’s a work in progress. #wailea #natgeoyourshot #nokaoi

@TIMROSSIPHOTOGRAPHY “When the last tree is cut, the last fish is caught, and the last river is polluted; when to breathe the air is sickening, you will realize, too late, that wealth is not in bank accounts and that you can't eat money.�—Alanis Obomsawin #livealoha #mauilove #makena

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GEVIN UTRILLO, CHEF DE CUISINE Japengo’s Gevin Utrillo was born and raised in Lahaina. Growing up in the seaside town, he would watch fascinated as his family members, especially his dad, cooked for parties and gatherings. “We always had fresh fish, meats and vegetables available,” he recalls of the time that inspired his own culinary journey.

In 2001, Chef Gevin graduated from The Art Institute School of Culinary Arts in Seattle, Washington. He worked briefly in the city’s restaurants, including those at the Hyatt Regency Bellevue, then moved to Northern California to become an opening sous chef at Ono-Maze, a Pan-Asian restaurant in the Bay Area town of Walnut Creek.

When his daughter was born in 2004, Chef Gevin moved home. “Not only did I want to raise my family on Maui, but I missed the food and ingredients that the Islands offered,” he says. On Maui he worked first at Sansei Kapalua before returning to the Hyatt family to work at the Hyatt Regency Maui. He served as chef de cuisine of the former Cascades restaurant, as A.M. chef, and then accepted his current position as chef de cuisine at the resort’s signature restaurant, Japengo. Last year he led the team at Japengo to victory, winning “Restaurant of the Year” in the 2019 Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ‘Aipono Awards.

Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, UH Maui Culinary Arts Program, and UH Food Innovation Center

Cel eb

40 Years in Ha ing rat

ii wa

HELD IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

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F I N D S

Table Toppings

G R E A T

Flourishing tropical leaves and flowers abound on one side of these placemats; turn them over for the Zen calm of a solid expanse of color.

Matching napkins can be had too.

Sugar Museum gift shop, 3957 Hansen Rd., Pu‘unēnē; 871-8058

Floor Show

Pinnate Pin-Ups

These stunning rugs from Portugal don’t just look lovely—they’re made from an exceptionally strong and soft Egyptian combed cotton called Giza ELS, which makes them both durable and delicious underfoot.

Luna and Tide, 62 Baldwin Ave. Pa‘īa; 579-3300

This trio of three-dimensional fan-shaped palm leaves is designed to be hung on the wall; the leaves are cast in polyresin and finished in a golden tone. Ashley HomeStore, 237 Dairy Rd., Kahului; 359-2110

ISLAND STYLE

Just can't get enough of the tropics?

Here are a few treasures to bring a little lushness into your home.

Grow Your Own Take A Seat LEE has been building environmentally friendly furniture—all of it made in NorthCarolina—for fifty years. This “Relaxor” chair comes in fabric or leather, with a certified sustainably harvested solid oak frame and cushions made from soy-based foam.

HUE, 210 Alamaha St., Kahului or 112 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea; 873-6910

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Two books by authors Lauren Camilleri and Sophia Kaplan offer a wealth of information on curating and caring for living, breathing, life-sustaining indoor plants, including palms, hanging plants, succulents, and air plants.

Designing Wahine, 3640 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 573-0990

Indulge in Aloha with island-inspired flavors like Pineapple, Coconut, Kona Coffee, and much more!

Discover our elegantly packaged premium shortbread cookies online or at our Maui locations. www.honolulucookie.com THE SHOPS AT WAILEA

FRONT STREET

WHALERS VILLAGE

MAUI | OAHU | LAS VEGAS | GUAM

For the Very Best, Look for the Pineapple Shape®

@honolulucookie

The pineapple shape of the cookie is a federally registered trademark of the Honolulu Cookie Company. March-April 2020. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine ©2020 Honolulu Cookie Company. All Rights Reserved.

ADVERTORIAL

ISLANDSTYLE If home is where your heart lives, fill it with what you love. Can’t decide?

We’ve got some ideas to fall for.

Pueo Gallery Contemporary art with an island vibe and beyond.

Artists Lyle Krannichfeld, Taryn Alessandro, Evan Schauss, Erik Abel, Rowan Chase and John McAbery.

Open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 96 Hana Hwy., Paia, 808-446-3974 | PueoMaui.com

Blue Bottle Love Imagine your logo appearing on this bottle, sandblasted deeply into the blue glass, sharing water with customers and friends, encoding the water with the vibration you want to share with the world. Live green, drink blue! For retail store locations, visit visit BlueBottleLove.com | 808-876-0009 Connect@LovBlu.com | FB/IG: @BlueBottleLove

Sargent’s Fine Jewelry Make your Maui memories last forever with one of these stunning, 18k gold mini Lamello diamond pendants, representing our glistening ocean waves. We feature more than twenty-seven local artists, ensuring that you’ll find some of the most unique handmade jewelry in Hawai‘i.

802 Front St., Lahaina | 808-667-2131 SargentsFineJewelry.com

ADVERTORIAL

Maui Coffee Roasters Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee, and our blends daily in our eco-friendly, small-batch roaster to ensure the freshness of every roast.

Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup.

444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului | 808-877-2877 MauiCoffeeRoasters.com

Kachi Jewelry Beautiful locally handcrafted jewelry from one of Maui’s own, Cathy U‘u of Kachi Jewelry. Each unique piece is handmade in Pā‘ia and sold at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea’s Art Program every Thursday; the south lobby of the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas every Wednesday.

808-281-0454 | KachiJewelry@gmail.com IG: @Kachi_Inc | KachiInc.com

Sabado Art Studios A unique Studio Gallery experience where you can experience and preview beautiful artwork, Aloha apparel & area carpets from renown Hawaii artist Sabado.

Communicating Hawaiian culture & history through Art. SabadoStudios.net | 808-280-4529 | Location - The new Wailea Village - 100 Wailea Ike Drive, Wailea HI

Forever H and A Maui Owner Romela Agbayani designs and sews these Hawaiian dresses for 18-inch American Girl dolls, along with matching dresses for girls of all ages. 658 Front St., Lahaina, and the Maui Swap Meet on Saturdays | 808-661-1760 | FB/IG: @ForeverHAndAMaui | ForeverHAndAMaui.com

A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.

AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.

SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.

HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .

TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.

667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F E ASTAT L E L E .CO M

AARON LYNTON

ISLAND LIVING

In th e Realm Between

A and

PŌ

A full-moon hike through the Waihe‘e coastal dunes offers an entry into the land of wandering.

Story By JUDY EDWARDS

Photography By BRYAN BERKOWITZ

T

he magical hour in which the moon rises has always been a favorite time of day for me. It is a period when linear time and concrete reality feel just a little bit shifted—and that, really, is the point of the full-moon hike I am about to embark on: to bring all of us who are here for the hike into an in-between-ish state of mind.

We are in the Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge with the man who will guide our hike: Scott Fisher, the associate executive director of conservation for the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust (HILT), the organization that owns this land. There are twenty or so of us, sitting at weathered picnic The luminous full tables with our backs to the ocean and the wind gustmoon is known in ing around us as Fisher speaks. Before we set out, Hawaiian as mahina piha or mahina Fisher—an ecologist who also taught a semester of poepoe.

Hawaiian religion at the University of Hawai‘i’s Maui campus—talks with us about the way in which the Hawaiian spiritual perspective breaks the human journey into three parts.

“The ao is the living world,” says Fisher, “the pō is the darkness or afterworld, and the ao kuewa is the wandering land where the ‘uhane, or spirits, become stuck when they are not pono, or ethically right.”

We have come to experience the Refuge during the silvery light of the full moon, and to hear, well, ghost stories… if ghosts can be thought of as those who are suspended, wandering, between the ao and the pō. The bright moon rises, seemingly fighting to get free of the scudding clouds, over the ocean behind us as Fisher continues, “While these two realms—ao and pō—are distinct, they can, and do, cross over at distinct times, including the nights of the full moon, like tonight.”

Our one-and-a-half-mile hike through the Waihe‘e Dune System will take us through gentle, shrubby terrain that is tucked between the beach and the astonishing two-hundredfoot-high dunes that back them. This is a part of Maui—open MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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Ecologist Scott Fisher leads full-moon hikes in the Waihe‘e dunes several times a year, offering a wealth of information about Hawai‘i along the way.

Here he stands close to the ocean’s edge, in low dunes where the native plant naupaka grows.

to strong sea winds and sparsely populated—that is somehow still barely known to the public. Eons ago these spectacular mounds were formed as the reef and beach eroded and blew inland, forming dunes all the way to present-day Kīhei. Humans obliterated many traces of the great Maui dunes, changing the landscape for agriculture, but on this shore the dunes remain, banked up against the foot of the West Maui mountains.

Until the early 1800s an important Hawaiian community thrived here: the village of Kapoho, which was set in the lowlying land between the dunes and the beach. Then for most of the twentieth century the land belonged to a dairy. Milk cows grazed among the village ruins, and weeds thrived in the wetlands and among the tumbled stones of four heiau (temples).

When the dairy was put up for sale by Wailuku Sugar, there was a trembling moment during which it nearly became a golf resort. But HILT was able to purchase the land in 2004. The Trust converted it to a 277-acre refuge and has been hard at work caring for and restoring Kapoho ever since.

Fisher is a devout student of the nineteenth-century Hawaiian historian and writer Samuel Kamakau, and this evening he has been braiding together Hawaiian concepts of life and information on the layout of the Kapoho ruins, the history of the dairy, and HILT’s ongoing restoration of the site. He is clearly bursting with much more that he wishes he had time to tell us. “I want you all to know,” he adds as we gather around him and zip our jackets in the cooling air, “that you are always welcome to come here”—by which he means that anyone can visit the Refuge without signing up for a group event.

As we walk, Fisher begins to move the conversation to the mo‘olelo ‘uhane, the stories of the ghosts. When we top a small grassy rise, he says, “We think that Kapoho was possibly founded here around 1425.” That is a lot of time, four hundred years or so, for a great many sad or terrible things to have happened, the usual basis for a ghost story. Fisher insists, however, that, “Many of the ghost stories told here are so positive. And,” he adds, “I have one of my own.” He was camping with his daughter and her friend on this spot years ago, and in the course of the day the kids found some bones in the sand. (Hawaiian commoners were often interred in the sand, and bones wash up even today.) Deep in the night, Fisher heard kids giggling and running around. Exasperated, he got up to call the girls back to bed. Except they were in their tent, sound asleep. Later examination would identify the bones as those of children.

A bit farther down the trail, Fisher gestures to the vague and silvered outlines of the former fishpond area, a structure estimated to occupy about one third of the roughly eighty acres of original wetlands. Volunteers now pull weeds in this area to restore the fresh water flow to the recovering wetlands. One early morning, when Fisher was busy in the Refuge while a lone volunteer was working near the fishpond, the volunteer waved Fisher over to ask who it was that apMAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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HILT's Mission: The Hawaiian Islands Land Trust (HILT) conserves lands with cultural and historical value, scenic views, agricultural resources, wildlife habitats, water resource areas, and outdoor recreation opportunities. At HILT’s Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge, active restoration is enhancing critical native wildlife habitat while preserving significant cultural sites.

Moonlight Hike Tip Sheet: HILT offers a full-moon hike through the Waihe‘e Coastal Dunes & Wetlands Refuge a few times a year. Budget three to four hours for the 1.4-mile round-trip experience, which includes a simple dinner served communally. The wind off the ocean after sunset may be cold; dress in layers. Wear closed-toe shoes that are easy to walk in. The trail is gentle but unpaved and can be either dusty or muddy.

Bring water and a flashlight if you have one, though moonlight is the reason for this hike. For further information and to schedule a group for a moonlight hike, contact Scott Fisher at (808) 357-7739 or scott@hilt.org.

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peared at intervals, silently watching him work. This kind of experience, says Fisher, is “an experience of aloha, is observational.” In other words, some of the elders are still interested in what happens on the land and are not letting death obstruct their sense of responsibility.

Someone asks about the size of Kapoho village. “That is almost impossible to answer, as the commoners moved up and down the slope with the seasons, and the chiefs and their courts moved around the island and islands, but one researcher’s assessment of the population size seems to indicate a capacity of about three hundred,” says Fisher. The community was associated with the Maui high chief Pi‘ilani, and received state visits from the Kamehameha dynastic family. We pause in sight of the light-limned heiau stones. “This is a luakini, or sacrificial, heiau dedicated to Kū”, explains Fisher. “You hear that luakini heiau are the sacrificial heiau, but a better way to think of them is that they were political. We think this one was in its final form by 1802. When Kamehameha II, Liholiho, was four years old, he came here accompanied by his father, Kamehameha I, to consecrate it with an image of the war god Kūka‘ilimoku. They say the entire peleleu war fleet was at anchor along the shore during the ceremony.” History says that the fleet numbered up to eight hundred canoes.

The trail, which has been following the coastline, begins to bend inland towards the dunes. Our group files into a tunnel of trees. Fisher waits while we collect around him. He tells us that we are very near the worker housing of the old dairy.

It is much quieter here, and we can hear the tree branches overhead squeak and rub. “The one story that all the dairy workers told us,” he begins, “was about two Filipino bachelors who would, every night, hear tapping on the window of their house. It was driving them crazy. They kept complaining to the dairy manager who finally said he would find a kahuna [Hawaiian priest] to bless the house, though he did not tell the kahuna what the issue was. The kahuna arrived and walked around the house, blessing it, then stopped under the window and said, ‘This is where you hear tapping, yes? There are bones in the ground here, under the window.’ The bones were found and reburied, the house blessed, and the tapping stopped.”

We are a reflective group after that, tramping back with our own thoughts. I ask Fisher a few more questions about his other passion, ecological restoration, and about the school groups that increasingly visit the Refuge. Tonight we have walked just along the shoreline, then inland and back, but there is a longer trail that follows the boundary of the whole Refuge. “I used to run it in the early morning after I opened the Refuge to let the fishermen in,” Fisher tells me. “On those runs, some mornings I used to catch the strong scent of kukui oil lamps, and with it the presence of the kūpuna.”

The entrance to the Waihe‘e Refuge (seen on the opposite page) is open every day and all are invited to explore this magical storied place. This page: Near the hike's end, with electric light once again near, Fisher and others pause to bathe in the moon’s glow.

Kepā Maly on his beloved island of Lāna‘i, looking across to Lele Kawa a Kahekili in the southern ahupua‘a of Kaunolū. Sitting eighty feet above the surface of the ocean, Lele Kawa a Kahekili was known as a jumping-off point, both for mortals demonstrating their bravery and for spirits departing this world.

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to know

LĀNA‘I once again

K E PĀ M A LY I S R E S T O R I N G AU T H E N T I C I T Y TO T H E STO R I E S OF THE ISLAND HE LOVES.

t

Story by Paul Wood Photography by Bailey Roberts

here are moments in our lives that come to define everything. Kepā Maly was a young teenager in Honolulu in the late 1960s dealing with challenging circumstances when he moved to Lāna‘i and was taken in as a keiki ho‘okama (foster child) of an older Hawaiian couple. Maly suddenly found himself living on land of great power among people of great aloha, learning the Hawaiian language and to live in the Hawaiian way. “They gave me a path, a direction,” he says now, fifty years later, of the kūpuna (Hawaiian elders) who took him in. “All of their own ‘ohana [family] were out leading lives and so they shared their stories, their spirit, with me. I know for a fact that had it not been for them, I would not be alive now.”

Maly says these words with humility and an absolute matter-of-factness, which is the way he speaks, from a solid and straightforward place of truth. He carries the same calm, kind energy that his adoptive kūpuna offered to him—an energy, he says, that ultimately emanates from the land itself.

Maly has dedicated himself to Lāna‘i, to its land, its history, its people. And just as his kūpuna loved him and by so doing strengthened him, Maly now seeks to do the same for Lāna‘i, an island that has weathered much in the last century but that is now moving in a direction guided by three key principles:

Preservation. Progress. Sustainability.

The museum that Kepā and his wife Onaona Pomroy Maly worked with community members to establish—the Lāna‘i Culture and Heritage Center (Lāna‘i CHC)—is situated at the east end of Dole Park, the park around which Lāna‘i City clusters. Under the couple's steadfast leadership, the museum has embraced the duty of caretaking the past. Authenticity—an unwavering fidelity to veracity—is vitally important to Maly. “Everything we’ve done has been tied to ensuring that knowledge is correct,” he says. He notes the length of the island’s story, from its initial emergence out of the sea one and a half million years ago to the arrival of the first plants, the first birds, the first humans. It is estimated that there were six thousand Hawaiians living on Lāna‘i when the first Westerners arrived in the Islands. The great changes that came next took a heavy toll on the island. In the late eighteenth century, chiefs from Hawai‘i Island swooped down on Lāna‘i, killing many of its peaceful residents. Western diseases carved down the population further, and botched experiments with ranching and sugar farming depleted Lāna‘i’s ecosystem. By 1922, when James Dole bought the entire island to create the world’s largest pineapple plantation, the native population was estimated to be 125, says Maly. Dole then brought in laborers MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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“A H E A L T H Y L A N D M A K E S F O R H E A LT H Y P E O P L E ,” S A Y S M A L Y. “ T H I S I S H AW A I I A N .”

Lāna‘i has a wealth of storied places, including this lava rock ledge named for the god Kāne‘āpua.

Kāne‘āpua was the younger brother of the gods Kāne (a life-giving god) and Kanaloa (a god of the sea) and was himself a god of navigation. In olden times navigators about to embark for the homeland of Kahiki (Tahiti) rested their canoes in the shadow of the cliffs near here, waiting for favorable conditions to depart.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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Kepā in the museum that he and his wife Onaona Pomroy Maly worked with community members to found in 2007— the Lāna‘i Culture and Heritage Center.

The historic photographs of the island on the wall behind him date from 1921 onwards.

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from places as diverse as Japan and Puerto Rico—the ancestors of the majority of the island’s current population of three thousand-plus.

When the Lāna‘i Culture and Heritage Center was founded in 2007, the island was, Kepā says, “in a very difficult place.”

The plantation had shut down its operations in 1992, the CEO of Castle & Cooke, David Murdock, had taken ownership of 97 percent of the island, and visitors at either of the island’s two resorts could rent Jeeps and wheel around a fragile landscape with little or no understanding of where they were. The ancient fishpond called Waia‘ōpae had been allowed to silt up to the surface with three feet of mud. Kapiha‘ā, in ancient times a renowned fishing village, sat next to a golf course and was choked in weedy kiawe (mesquite) trees. Part of Lāna‘i CHC’s initial business was to create guides to the island and its city, part of it was simply to retrieve Lāna‘i artifacts that had been carried away—for example, adzes, slingstones, and antique maps stashed away in museums and family collections. Young people of the island were “getting detached from their history,” says Maly.

It was a history that he had sought to learn ever since he’d arrived on Lāna‘i. He’d graduated from the local high school, but he attended without much interest in anything except wandering the island itself. While in high school he'd picked pineapple on the night shift so that he could explore the landscape in daylight, seeking out what he calls the “storied places,” a constellation of legends and former lives preserved in stones and trails and in the tales told by the elders. He met Onaona, who is of Hawaiian, Tahitian and Caucasian descent and who shares his passion for the culture; they have now been married for forty-three years. He moved to the island of O‘ahu and launched his unique career as an interpreter and naturalist, first at Kualoa Regional Park, then with the National Park Service both in Hawai‘i and on the continental United States, later as curator and exhibit designer for the Kaua‘i Museum. Always, Lāna‘i was his touchstone.

He couldn’t have known that five years after he and Onaona helped to found Lāna‘i CHC, a tech billionaire named Larry Ellison was going to purchase the island from Murdock.

But in 2012 that’s precisely what happened: Ellison bought the island and his enterprise announced that it would seek to transform Lāna‘i into a model of sustainable living. Ellison sent a group of people from his company to speak to community leaders on Lāna‘i, to get a sense of the circumstances on the island and what people there thought the future could hold. Maly was among those they consulted. Lāna‘i would not be an easy investment, he told Ellison’s people, but it was a place of incredible richness.

A group formed to chart the future direction of the island: Pūlama Lāna‘i. Many know the Hawaiian word mālama, which

means “to care for and steward,” but fewer are familiar with pūlama, which means “to cherish and treasure, to save.” It was Pūlama Lāna‘i that came up with the touchstone principles of the way forward: Preservation. Progress. Sustainability. Today it speaks of resource protection, renewable energy sources, restoration of the depleted watershed, controlling invasive species, and building informed leaders for the future. Maly is in charge of culture and historic preservation and it’s easy to hear his graceful voice whispering throughout the promising texts of Pūlama Lāna‘i. Out of respect for Ellison’s privacy, Maly prefers to say little about their interactions, though he will say, “He expresses a keen interest in and love for the history of place and that gives me encouragement.”

“Lāna‘i CHC had the original vision,” Maly says, “and Pūlama Lāna‘i has the resources to make it a reality.” In many ways, the museum has expanded to include the entire island.

Residents who are now employed restoring kalo ponds, upgrading trails, or preserving forests also receive training in interpretation. They learn chants and legends associated with their work sites and part of their responsibility is to engage visitors and make them aware of place. In fact, everyone who works a paying job on Lāna‘i now gets an island guide and reference booklet. Education is key. “I believe strongly that most people will become engaged if they have knowledge of what they’re looking at,” says Maly. For example, a spectacular promontory called Kaunolū on Lāna‘i’s west coast includes a huge heiau (temple site) with unique petroglyphs depicting a legendary man-eating bird named Halulu, and a house platform constructed for Kamehameha I. Until recently the site was a secret, except to four-wheeling adventurers. Now a re-directed footpath and informative signs are helping to preserve the area.

Schools are a big part of this initiative. Lāna‘i CHC has written a curriculum such that the island itself becomes the classroom. Public school students travel to an ancient fishpond on Lāna‘i’s east coast. “We let them tramp through the mud-laden reef to stir up the mud,” says Maly. “Suddenly within a few days little pua, fingerlings, start to show up.”

They learn to see the vivid evidence that Lāna‘i formerly enjoyed much greater rainfall. Damage done by cattle, deer, and plows has altered rainfall patterns, says Maly. “Rains used to be spread out over long periods. Now we get horrid downpours, then it’s dry for months at a time.” Overall, though, the museum’s educational message is that “restoration is possible, and we can do it in our lifetime.” The work is to create a model for other islands and the rest of the globe. “If we can’t do that on Lāna‘i, it bodes ill for the rest of the world,” Maly says.

“A healthy land makes for healthy people. This is Hawaiian.

Regardless of ethnicity, this is all Hawaiian.”

PŪLAMA LĀNA‘I CAME UP WITH TOUCHSTONE PRINCIPLES O F T H E WAY F O R WA R D : P R E S E R VAT I O N .

PROGRESS. S U S T A I N A B I L I T Y.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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Precious

ean the J ck of e d e th rom een f aui s M t s e of W ains ount m e h T

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s. sland the I o t e in agaz . fleet our m waii’s delivers a H asha a Hawaii s in P sh e ship a year Pa h t f o s e e n o im , Six t Anne

Cargo Every issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi spends its first week traveling the Pacific.

We went along for the journey.

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awai‘i is the most isolated population center on the planet, lying more than 2,200 miles from the nearest continent. Eighty percent of what we consume in the Islands is imported and 98 percent of that arrives by boat. Hawai‘i’s two commercial shipping companies—Pasha Hawai‘i and Matson—serve as lifelines; we rely on them to deliver everything from medical equipment to mandarin oranges to the publication you hold in your hands.

Every two months, a new issue of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is printed, trucked to a dock in California, and shipped to Hawai‘i aboard a Pasha vessel. When the editor of Maui Nō Ka

‘Oi asked if I wanted to follow the magazine’s journey across the Pacific, I didn’t hesitate. I’ve dreamt of hitching a ride on a cargo ship since I was a kid. My flight from Maui to San Diego took five hours; the return trip by boat took eight days.

Day 1: Wednesday

At the far end of the San Diego pier, the Jean Anne is easy to spot: ten stories tall and nearly six hundred feet long with “PASHA HAWAII” painted across her broad hull. Jim Marren, the ship’s third mate, welcomes me aboard and gives me a tour of the vessel.

Pasha built the Jean Anne especially to serve Hawai‘i.

Named after the founder’s wife, the boat represented a milestone for American shipbuilders: the first pure car/ truck carrier built in the nation. While the company’s five other ships carry containers—twenty-by-forty-foot metal boxes that are packed with any and all manner of goods— the Jean Anne is what sailors call a “ro-ro,” a vessel designed to transport roll-on and roll-off cargo. Essentially she functions as a floating garage, capable of carrying 2,500 cars or anything on wheels. Three of her ten decks dedicated to cargo can be raised to accommodate oversized items such as city buses, yachts, and even roller coasters destined for the Hawai‘i State Fair.

I watch the dockworkers drive cars and tractors onto the ship via a one-hundred-ton ramp on the stern. Hotel valets could learn from these speedy, skillful stevedores who pack vehicles in like sardines. The cargo is carefully distributed to

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maintain balance at sea and every vehicle is lashed down to the deck.

Marren leads me down a metal stairway to the engine room, which occupies the three lowest decks. The roar of the engine is monstrous even when it’s idling; its 14,825 units of horsepower turn Jean Anne’s massive propeller. Next Marren shows me to my cabin—a large stateroom with a tidy bunk, bathroom, and two portholes. Up on the navigation bridge, I meet Captain Steve Bond. The stern but cordial seaman has been with the Jean Anne since the boat launched fourteen years ago. “It’s not as rigid as other ships,” he assures me. “We try to keep it a family atmosphere.” Later, as proof, I hear him practicing guitar in his cabin.

At three p.m., sailors haul the docklines aboard and two tugboats maneuver the Jean Anne off the pier. A harbor pilot joins Captain Bond at the bridge and navigates us safely out to sea. As we pass Point Loma—the last solid ground we’ll see for a week—the pilot prepares to disembark. The crew lets a ladder down the ship’s starboard side to a waiting tug.

Eighteen permanent crewmembers sail aboard the Jean Anne: the captain, three mates, four engineers, several deckhands, two cooks, a bosun, a medic, and an electrician.

They work long shifts: seventy days on, seventy days off.

After living together for three-plus months, they return to vastly different lives around the globe.

LIFE AT SEA Captain Bond lives on a lake in Maine. (clockwise from above left): Third The chief engineer lives in Sweden. mate Jim Marren Several sailors are originally from playing his guitar; tugboats escort the Yemen and the Philippines and now live Jean Anne into the in Southern California. dock in Kahului; Ismael Garayua, Squadrons of pelicans fly alongside the ship’s chef de cuisine, at work in the galley; the loading ramp on the Jean Anne; first mate Darryl Sykes gets breakfast in the ship’s mess hall; making sure vehicles are securely tied down; and the captain of the Jean Anne, Steve Bond, on the fly bridge.

the Jean Anne as California fades in our wake. I watch day turn to night from the navigation bridge with Marren. On the horizon I see the silhouette of a single boat. “The captain wants to be alerted if we get within a mile of a ship,” Marren says. “So I make sure he’s never alerted.” With so little traffic in the Pacific, it’s an easy chore.

The heart of any boat is its galley, and that’s especially true on the Jean Anne. Ismael Garayua, the ship’s chef de cuisine, makes all of his sauces and pastries from scratch and regularly prepares special dishes from the crew’s various home countries. My mouth waters at his description of the feast he cooked in honor of Eid, the Muslim holiday. He’s thirty-five years old, from Puerto Rico, and plans to open his own restaurant after a few more years at sea. Tonight he serves tuna steak with wasabi cream, wild rice, and beans, a meal to rival any cruise ship fare.

The traditional naval hierarchy is evident at mealtime.

Officers dine in a separate room, able-bodied seamen eat together, and the lone cadet has a whole table to herself: Twenty-three-year-old Kanguen Seo was born in Korea, raised in Turkey, and now attends the Merchant Marine Academy at King’s Point in New York. As the youngest person aboard pursuing a career at sea, this engineer’s apprentice both bucks the stereotype of those who sail these ships and represents the future of the industry. The Jean Anne is her second ship and she loves it.

When I settle into my bunk to sleep, I feel as though I’m lying on the back of a great black horse galloping towards an ever-receding horizon. In the timeless dark my body tenses, anticipating a pause in the movement—but no, the ship lurches on and on carrying me along.

Day 2: Thursday

Crewmembers on Jean Anne stand four-hour watches, and by day two, I’ve fallen in sync with the star watch: from four to eight in the morning and four to eight in the evening. I spend

The Jean Anne is 579 feet long, weighs over twelve thousand metric tons and travels at a speed of twenty knots—all of which means her crewmembers need to know a lot to keep her running smoothly. And they do.

This page: First Assistant Engineer Richard Shenck onboard the ship.

Opposite: Crewmembers Russel Piamonte, Noah Shayef and Noel Camacho with Maui in the background, having made another successful crossing.

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Kanguen Seo is a cadet serving as an engineer’s apprentice onboard the Jean Anne. Here she is in the ship’s three-story engine room, where the massive machine creates a deafening roar as it turns the ship’s giant propeller.

Just in case, the Jean Anne carries a spare prop strapped to its uppermost deck.

“Good to have if we need it,” says third mate Marren.

sunrise and sunset on the bridge talking with chief mate Darryl Sykes. He joined the Navy in 1976 and has worked on the water ever since. He confesses to feeling nostalgic for the days before Global Positioning Systems, when sailors used charts, clocks, and sextants to navigate across the world’s oceans. He still shoots the sun lines with the sextant every day and shows me how. His watch partner, Abdul Al Omari, is similarly traditional. The laconic sailor from Yemen doesn’t speak unless spoken to—but a magnificent sunset elicits a smile. “Most people never see sights like this,” he murmurs.

Day 3: Friday

By day three, I am thoroughly used to the ship’s uneven gallop, its constant groans and shudders. Even more, I am used to Garayua’s cooking and the fresh-baked sourdough bread, Portuguese cream tarts, and Tres Leche cake that accompany every meal. It’s no wonder many of the ship’s crew claim that the Jean Anne is their favorite boat.

After lunch, the second mate sounds the fire alarm and the crew musters for safety drills. The engineers perform the motions of fighting a fire in the galley. Marren describes how to launch the two lifeboats hanging port and starboard.

Once the drills are completed to the captain’s satisfaction, the deckhands begin discussing strategies for the upcoming cornhole tournament. Each Sunday, the crew takes a little time off for a barbecue and highly competitive beanbag toss.

Noel Camacho, the ship’s bosun, shows me how to time tosses with the gentle roll of the ship.

Day 4: Saturday

After witnessing another superlative sunrise, I spend the day in the ship’s library reading about the maritime industry and the origins of Pasha. Back in the 1940s, George Pasha Jr. ran a service station across from Fort Mason in San Francisco.

He and his son George Pasha III began storing automobiles for military troops deployed to the Pacific. Over the ensuing decades, the family business expanded to include stevedoring, freight-forwarding, and trucking services at numerous ports around the United States and in Okinawa, Japan.

In 1999, the company formed Pasha Hawaii, a marine shipping division to compete with Matson and Horizon Lines, the two companies then carrying cargo between Hawai‘i and the U.S. continent. It took six years to build Pasha’s first vessel, the Jean Anne, a Jones Act compliant boat.

The Jones Act dictates that any boat transporting goods between U.S. ports must be built, owned, and operated by U.S. citizens or permanent residents—and multicultural as the Jean Anne's crew is, everyone aboard meets this requirement. Jones Act ships are beholden to U.S. labor, tax, and environmental laws, which means that the sailors aboard the Jean Anne also receive fair pay and have to abide by national clean air and water standards. Since the Jones Act prevents ships from outside the United States from bringing goods directly to Hawai‘i, it supports the U.S. shipbuilding industry and protects an essential component of the economy—the on-time delivery of goods—from outside interference.

Four years after launching the Jean Anne, Pasha Hawaii

built its second vessel. The Marjorie C is a hybrid ro-ro and container ship. It transports cars and regular household cargo, plus refrigerated goods. In 2015, Horizon Lines sold its Hawai‘i business to Pasha, along with four container ships.

Pasha remains a smaller operation than its sole competitor, Matson, but the third-generation family business continues to grow its market share. Two new container ships will join Pasha’s fleet this year: the George III and Janet Marie. These LNG dual-fueled vessels are designed to significantly reduce the company’s fuel consumption and emissions.

In 2018, Hurricane Maria highlighted the importance of maintaining an American-flagged fleet. Pasha Hawaii was able to swiftly bring aid to the beleaguered population of Puerto Rico: One Pasha container ship alone was able to deliver fifteen million bottles of drinking water to San Juan. As I fall asleep that night, I reflect on the fact that if a major storm hits Hawai‘i, it will be people like Captain Bond and his crew who will deliver life-saving supplies to the Islands.

Day 5: Sunday

Sunday is everybody’s favorite day aboard the Jean Anne.

While the deckhands practice tossing beanbags in advance of the tournament, I help Garayua prepare a bewildering spread for the barbecue: bacon-wrapped jalapeno poppers, sausages, ribs, chicken wings, salmon, fresh oysters, potato salad, corn on the cob, and watermelon. Garayua insists that everyone wear aloha wear. The snappily dressed crew feasts, then rallies for the cornhole tournament. The sailors hoot and holler as each person takes turns tossing beanbags. I am delighted to sink a single bag. Everyone else is delighted when the reigning champ loses to an underdog.

Day 6: Monday

Land ho! The faint outlines of Moloka‘i and O‘ahu appear on the horizon. By late afternoon, we pass Diamond Head.

Seeing the Waikīkī landmark from this vantage is thrilling. A harbor pilot jumps aboard and steers us safely to our berth at Pier 1. He will stay with the ship for each of the Hawai‘i ports: Honolulu, Kahului, and Hilo. Once we dock, every sailor who isn’t on watch sets out on foot to explore Honolulu. Garayua grabs his grocery bags and heads to his favorite local markets to restock his larder.

Day 7: Tuesday

After working into the wee hours unloading cargo destined for O‘ahu, the stevedores refill the hull with vehicles returning to California. I wander around the pier, feeling melancholy that my time aboard the Jean Anne is already coming to an end— just one more night at sea before we reach Maui.

Day 8: Wednesday

I wake to see the dark shadow of Moloka‘i passing by my porthole. The sea is bathtub calm as we glide past the West Maui Mountains into Kahului Harbor. As soon as the docklines are fast, the stevedores get busy shifting cargo onto the dock—Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi magazines included. I pack my bag and wish my new friends a safe journey back to San Diego.

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The Moemalie estate sits on the slopes of HaleakalÄ ; it features a meandering path through lush, terraced lawns that leads to a saltwater infinity pool and pavilion.

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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STORY BY S A R A H R U P P E N T H A L

PHOTOGRAPHY BY T R A V I S R O W A N

There’s A Surprise Around Every Corner.

MOEMALIE DREAMING At This One-Of-A-Kind Upcountry Estate,

W

ith its steeply pitched rooflines, gingerbread gable trim, and butteryellow exterior, Tammy and John Browning’s residence in Kula is a home so unique and charming that it seems straight out of a storybook. In fact, that was John’s initial impression of the house when he first saw it five years ago. At the time, he, his wife Tammy, and their two young children were living forty miles away in West Maui. But they knew they were ready for a change of scenery and they had their sights set on the Upcountry area. So when the musician Mick Fleetwood, a friend of John’s, told him about a twenty-threeacre estate for sale in Kula, John’s interest was piqued. One afternoon he took an unscheduled solo road trip to get a sense of the place. He parked next to the entry gate, hopped out of

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his idling car, peered through the wrought-iron bars, and was awestruck. “It was unlike anything I’d ever seen on Maui or anywhere else in Hawai‘i,” he says. And yet, because of John’s own history, it had an air of familiarity. John had spent much of his childhood at his maternal grandparents’ home, the historic Cuneo Mansion in Vernon Hills, Illinois, which today has become the Cuneo Museum and Gardens. Architecturally, the two estates differ—the Cuneo is designed in a Mediterranean style, the one in Kula in a Victorian style—but both have the same castle-like grandeur. As a kid John had dreamed of one day living in a home like that of his grandparents. Now here it was, he recalls, “sitting right in front of me.”

In the days following his impromptu visit, John couldn’t stop thinking about the house. Finally Tammy called their realtor, who scheduled a tour. When she and John drove through the gate for the first time, Tammy’s reaction was the same as

Baron Dorcy, Moemalie's first owner, spent eight years creating the house, and its new owners, the Brownings, have kept much of the building's original feel.

Features include (clockwise from top left) staircase murals by Maui artist Karl Hensel, a nine-car garage, an antique billiards table, and colorful ceilings and blue-and-white stone countertops in the kitchen.

her husband’s. “The place was breathtaking,” she remembers. As they toured the grounds there was a lot to take in: In addition to the three-bedroom, five-and-a-half bath main residence, there is an attached ‘ohana apartment atop a three-car garage, a two-story guest house, a caretaker’s cottage, a detached nine-car garage, a saltwater pool and pavilion, a barn/workshop, and a nine-acre koa forest. As the couple toured the estate, John says it was as if an invisible force was tugging at his shirtsleeve, whispering, “You have got to buy this.” The clincher came when John, a car collector, stepped inside the detached garage and saw its spaces for nine cars. “It couldn’t have been any more perfect,” he says.

Their realtor told them about the home’s intriguing past.

It had been built at the end of the twentieth century by the late Laurence Holmes Dorcy, Jr., better known as Baron, a nickname he acquired while serving in the U.S. Air Force Strategic Air Command. Baron was the great-grandson of railroad tycoon

James J. Hill, and he, like John, was a car collector. When Baron purchased the Kula property in 1997, his first order of business had been to build a garage for his trove of classic cars. He broke ground on the main house soon after and was in no rush to finish—it took him nearly eight years to complete. “It was a labor of love,” Tammy explains. “He put so much detail into every square inch.”

And he didn’t stop after the housewarming party; Baron continued to make improvements until his death in 2011. Signs of his multifaceted life are everywhere. He was the quintessential car guy but also had an affinity for airplanes and trains, as evidenced by the B-52 bombers painted on the octagonal master bedroom ceiling and the reconstructed steam engine that once sat on the property. He had a passion for boats, too, and famously commissioned a 103-foot square-rigged topsail ketch in the 1980s he named the Hawaiian Chieftain.

“It was a labor of love.

After Baron died, the estate sat unoccupied for four years.

Fleetwood, who is yet another car aficionado, had been a frequent visitor at Baron’s, which is how the celebrated drummer knew about the estate and was able to guide the Brownings to it.

Tammy and John decided to buy, though they could see the place needed some TLC. The couple spent several months restoring the estate to its original condition. By the time the family moved in, every structure on the property had been revamped inside and out. The main house received a top-tobottom refresh, but nearly all of its original features were left intact. There are points of interest throughout. A large peacock is painted on one of the kitchen walls. An embossed copper ceiling soars above the dining room. Murals depicting the pools of ‘Ohe‘o line the grand staircase. A vintage accordion cage elevator connects the three floors.

A technological upgrade was also in order: According to those who knew him, Baron wanted the home to be free of distractions, so there were no televisions, phones, or computers. There was no Internet service. To bring the residence into the twenty-first century, John installed a home automation system so that everything—from the lights to the security system—can be monitored remotely and controlled with a smartphone or tablet. He also had three thousand feet of fiber-optic cable laid underground so every structure could connect to high-speed Internet.

Today the estate may have all of the comforts of modern living, but it hasn’t lost the tranquil ambience Baron envisioned when he designed and built it. Before he died, he christened the estate Moemalie, which is Tahitian for “peaceful rest.” The Brownings agree it’s a perfect word to describe it.

He put so much detail

The elevation of Moemalie ensures sweeping views down across the central plain and out to the ocean and the mountains of West Maui.

into every square inch.”

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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2684 Kauhale St., Kīhei 808-870-1838

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STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL

J

ennifer Edwards and Eric Littlejohn’s sales office has a distinctly homey feel. And that’s because it is a home. The two work out of one of the fully furnished condominiums at the oceanfront Montage Kapalua Bay resort, one of a handful of luxury resorts on Maui that is composed of both hotel suites and residential units. And yes, living in a five-star hotel is as luxe as it sounds: Owners get the same perks as guests, including round-the-clock concierge service, daily housekeeping, in-room dining, and valet parking. With years of experience under their belts, Jennifer and Eric understand the nuances of Maui’s luxury real estate market. Here, they offer some expert tips to help buyers and sellers stay informed.

Is it a good time to buy or to sell— or both?

ERIC: We believe it’s both: a good time to buy or to sell. The numbers show that 2019 was another strong year for sales on Maui. We have seen a very robust market here at Montage Kapalua Bay over the past four years, with sales volume and sales transactions continu-

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ing to increase. As we wind down the developer sales, we’ve started to see the resale market pick up this past year, with residences showing a really strong price appreciation from their original purchase price to the sold price.

What should buyers from beyond Hawai‘i’s shores know before purchasing a home on Maui?

ERIC: Hawai‘i is a “good funds” state.

That means all funds must be received by escrow no later than two business days prior to recordation and closing.

Buyers should also know if a property is fee simple or leasehold [Hawai‘i is one of a few places in the United States that has leasehold land]. And we definitely recommend working with a seasoned on-island real estate agent.

JENNIFER: Understanding our market is also really important. Sometimes you don’t appreciate or fully understand the value of what you’re purchasing until you see what else is out there.

Apart from the obvious—all of the services and amenities—what do buyers find most appealing about owning a home in a resort commu-

nity like Montage Kapalua Bay? JENNIFER: For most of our buyers, this is a second home where the whole family can gather during the holidays or throughout the year. It also appeals to buyers who no longer want to maintain a big house and who like the lock-andleave lifestyle—when they’re not here, they don’t have to worry about it. Our owners can leave knowing their home is in good hands and there’s always an extra set of eyes on it.

What nuggets of wisdom do you have for sellers?

ERIC: Sellers need to be familiar with HARPTA [the Hawai‘i Real Property Tax Act] and FIRPTA [Foreign Investment in Real Property Tax Act] withholdings for non-Hawai‘i residents or non-U.S. citizens. And staging a home is very important for our sellers. Buyers are extremely visual and need to be able to see themselves living there. A furnished home shows so much better.

When it comes to desirable home features, what tends to be on a buyer’s “must-have” list these days?

ERIC: Indoor-outdoor living spaces. An open kitchen that flows to the outdoor lānai. And smart-home technology.

We’ve seen owners install Control4 [home automation] systems so they can control the air-conditioning, lighting, TV, and music with the touch of a button.

JENNIFER: Yes, a lot of our owners are making those electronic upgrades. If you don’t have it, maybe you’re not missing it… but once you get a taste of it, it becomes a must-have.

Clearly, you enjoy your jobs. What is most rewarding?

JENNIFER: Here at Montage Kapalua Bay, it’s not so much about the bricks and mortar—it’s about families spending time together and making memories.

We get to help them make those memories. That’s the greatest reward for us.

Interested in the latest market data for Maui? The Realtors Association of Maui publishes monthly real estate market reports at RAMaui.com/Consumers/ Market-Statistics.

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Chef Jeremy Solyn prepares to scatter sweet basil microgreens, adding a final touch to dessert as his daughters Bella and Alice look on.

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MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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I

am driving through wideopen fields with my friend Diane, heading for dinner at the restaurant Nylos in the north Maui town of Pā‘ia when she asks me, “Do you have any idea what’s on their menu tonight?”

“The Chef’s Table menu is always a surprise,” I reply, “but trust me on this, Diane. I’ve been there and I’m confident that you’ll love Chef Jeremy Solyn’s food.” I tell her about my one experience eating there before: My foodie friends, Shannon and Brian Quinn-Ward, had insisted that we go together when they learned I hadn’t yet been. “Chef Jeremy and his wife Paulina do a fantastic job!” Shannon had exclaimed, as she’d extolled the restaurant’s virtues.

And when we’d arrived at Nylos, we’d feasted. The first course had been a pan-seared, crisp-skinned ‘ōpakapaka (pink snapper) caught at depth of seven hundred feet and served with blistered tomatoes from Ho Farms and a spicy

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mayonessa. That course had been followed by roasted organic chicken with chili aioli and honeyed rainbow carrots.

For dessert we’d had a warm chocolate cake made with Dagoba organic cacao, accented with mint and strawberries.

Diane and I arrive in Pā‘ia and turn onto Baldwin Avenue. We drive mauka, past the town’s Mana Foods and its Tibetan temple, and park in the lot across the street from Nylos, a mere one hundred feet from the restaurant’s front door, a perk given the scarcity of street parking in this part of town. We enter the tiny eighteen-seat restaurant, housed in a 1950s storefront, and we are greeted by Paulina Solyn, Jeremy’s wife, who runs the front of the house.

Originally from Guadalajara, Mexico, Paulina grew up in Lahaina and worked for many years at that town’s celebrated restaurant, Star Noodle. It was through the Maui restaurant world that she and Jeremy met.

As Diane and I settle in, our gracious hostess pours us a glass of bubbly. “Welcome, Diane,” Paulina says with a warm smile, “and Becky, so happy to see you again. Tonight Chef has prepared an amuse bouche that will pair nicely with this Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Champagne. Enjoy!”

As Paulina attends to the other patrons at Nylos, I share Jeremy’s credentials with Diane. “He was the former chef de partie at the Michelinstarred Moto Restaurant in Chicago,” I say, “and the executive chef at the Hilton in Tuscon. Most recently, he spent eight years as the executive chef at Ruth’s Chris in Lahaina. Plus, he’s a certified sommelier.”

Jeremy himself arrives and places our first dish on the table. “The amuse is to prepare your palette for the next courses and it’s usually small,” he says, “but I like to share much more than a single bite.” He gestures to the arrayed tastes. “I have a A dusting of parmesan cheese matcha powder crisp with local adds color and a hint of astringency greens tossed with to beef tenderloin; garlic oil and organic Solyn excels at bringing together cider vinegar, a differing tastes smoky Boursin and textures. cheese, tamarimarinated Bunapi mushrooms, and sweet red king crab in a dashi broth.”

The food is as good as I remember.

And after the amuse is cleared, Paulina delivers bread to our table. “Jeremy bakes it daily,” she tells us. Thyme, oregano and sage speckle the focaccia, which is served with heirloom garlic butter. Diane and I dip bite-sized morsels of bread into the brown butter sauce that has accompanied our next dish: perfectly seasoned herb-stuffed quail.

After the first course is cleared, Diane and I marvel at the marbled foie gras slices Jeremy delivers next. “This dish takes fourteen days to prepare,” he explains. “First, I marinate the foie gras in wine and brandy for two days.

Then I wrap it in cheesecloth and cure it for two days. Then it’s poached for two

Scenes from Nylos (clockwise from top left): Paulina and Jeremy in the restaurant they’ve created; the entrance; stuffed quail on risotto with scallion oil; Jeremy butter bastes the quail to a smoky finish; table service at Nylos; an amuse bouche to greet diners; torching the chill off a torchon of foie gras; pavlova with Maui strawberries and star fruit. Center image: The Solyn family of six.

A torchon of foie gras is accompanied by toasted brioche topped with orange tobiko and plump Petrossian Royal Ossetra caviar; salt flakes and diced sweet Maui onion complete the plate.

minutes in beef stock at 150 degrees and cured again for three days. Then I repeat those last two steps—poaching it and curing it—and then finally I unwrap it, slice it into medallions, and torch it just enough to warm it through.”

We spread a tiny bit on toast and, between sips of Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes, nod our approval at its velvety texture and concentrated flavors.

Also on the plate is Petrossian Royal Ossetra caviar, for which I’m glad I saved a few sips of champagne. As Diane and I savor the last bites, we ask each other, “How can Jeremy top this?”

The answer: Dry-rubbed and panseared beef tenderloin served with hard-to-find Lion’s Mane mushrooms.

The meat is rich and, as the menu states, a butter bomb—but it’s not dripping in butter. Jeremy’s slight–of-hand in the kitchen comes from years spent refining his culinary skills.

Before we take our leave, Jeremy and Paulina talk with us a little more about Nylos—a name they derived, incidentally, by reversing the letters of their surname Solyn. “I love to be able to showcase the great ingredients from Maui,” says Jeremy. “Do you know Marilyn Nomura?

Our fruits and the vanilla we use come from her organic farm. Our mushrooms come from Lapa‘au Farm, the cauliflower and radishes from Pauwela Farm. The list goes on and on.” When I ask how the Solyn family came to be involved with food, Jeremy tells me that his father owned a deli when Jeremy was growing up in Florida. “Good food has been a huge part of my life,” he says. “Plus, my mother’s Italian-Slovakian and she’s a great cook, as is Paulina’s grandmother in Mexico.” The next generation is already in the mix: The Solyns now have four children—their daughters Bella, 11, Alice, 9, and Eleanor, 5, and a son, Meir who just turned 3. Their life on Maui’s North Shore continues to blossom and grow.

Nylos, 115 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, (808) 579-3354.

Chef’s Table seatings are at 5 p.m. and 8 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. www.NylosMaui.com

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“G o o d fo o d h a s been a huge p a r t o f my l i fe,” s ay s S o l y n .

Joy The

Story by BECKY SPEERE Photography by RYAN SIPHERS

of

Chef Alex Stanislaw has spent four decades on Maui infusing his food with happiness.

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Stanislaw, one of the Maui chefs who helped to define Pacific Regional Cuisine, has made a career of combining ingredients in novel and exciting ways. But as his dish of lobster tails with drawn butter illustrates, he still knows his way around the classics.

Chef Alex Stanislaw (center) is seen here flanked by his morning crew at the Sea House Restaurant on the shores of NÄ pili Bay. To his right are Brian Noordman and Tony Salvador; to his left, Magealena Tonaquin and Marcos Ruiz.

hen I poke my head into the kitchen of the Sea House Restaurant on Nāpili Bay, it doesn’t take me long at all to spot Chef Alex Stanislaw—there’s his tousled white hair, his ever-present boyish grin, his calm-inthe-storm energy holding together a frenetic kitchen. He greets me from across the grill, in the midst of firing off dinner orders. It may be the middle of the week in the tourism off-season but Stanislaw’s bar and restaurant is filled with locals and visitors alike.

The crowd is not a surprise to me.

Maui may have dozens of restaurants to choose from, but it’s the tried-and-true chefs—the old-timers—who manage to grow a following of guests that return time and time again. And Stanislaw is definitely one of those chefs. He’s been on Maui for four decades, since he moved to the island in 1980. He was a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and, “It was the middle of the winter on the East Coast when I saw a posting for chef positions on Maui,” he recalls of the year he decided to embrace a credo then popular on t-shirts: Here Today, Gone To Maui. He weighed the freezing temperatures in New York against sunshine and tradewinds, called it “a no-brainer,” and moved to the island sight unseen.

In the years since, Alex has turned curating a global dining menu into an adventure, pulling together ingredients in new and delicious ways to make dishes like hulihuli lamb chops in lemon wine sauce or crispy coconut shrimp with fruit salsa. And no matter the restaurant or the time of day, I’ve never seen Alex with anything less than a joyful demeanor. What makes him tick, I wonder? Managing a kitchen staff of twenty-five is no easy task. Perhaps, I muse, Alex brings to the job not just his skills from CIA but also his history as a film student at Syracuse University. As a director, he keeps everything on point and moving in service of his vision. As a producer, he creates food in a timely manner while meeting his budget. As

a casting director, he hires competent and dedicated cooks to execute his menus. No matter what his secret, the bottom line is that he’s a happy man. I’m reminded of a conversation he and I had years ago; what touched me then was his willingness to grow with and share in the development of his culinary staff. One can sense this in his kitchen, where he and his capable staff function like a welloiled machine from the beginning of happy hour through to the last dessert.

More recently we’d sat down together when I’d stopped into the restaurant for breakfast and he’d said to me, “I’ve been at Sea House for four years now and I feel fortunate to work with professionals in the kitchen who truly care about food and who want to learn.” And the public has noticed: Sea House is a past winner of the ‘Aipono Restaurant Awards for Best Happy Hour and Best Oceanfront Dining, and in 2018 it took the silver award for Maui’s Restaurant of the Year.

Tonight at the Sea House, I’m dining with a large group. My friends order a plate of two Australian lobster tails with drawn butter; mahimahi crusted with macadamia nuts; and crunchy golden coconut shrimp. A waiter passes me carrying the seared catch of the day, which is served with cilantro couscous and avocado crema. It looks terrific and I make a mental note to try it on my next visit if it’s still on the menu. My own dish arrives: monchong cooked in a provençale style, enveloped in a fragrant sauce of simmered roasted bell peppers, herbs and white wine. We all tuck into our dinners, relishing the flavors and freshness, and I savor each bite. After dinner I find a quiet moment to thank the chef. “Life is good,” he says. He graciously commends the front-of-house staff as well as the kitchen crew. He takes in the view of the filled dining room and adds, “We’re so lucky to live in Hawai‘i. It’s always a wonderment to me that I live and work here.” When I praise him for the preparation of the monchong, he smiles.

“If you’re happy in the kitchen,” he says, “guests taste it in their food.”

SIXTY-SECOND CEVICHE SERVINGS: FOUR TO SIX

I take pleasure in searching for the freshest and most sustainable fish and produce available in Hawai‘i, and this recipe’s bright and unadulterated flavors reflect that commitment. —Chef Alex Stanislaw

4 4 oz. portions of fresh sustainable Hawaiian fish, cut into blocks; we generally use a‘u (Hawaiian

billfish, usually striped marlin or small blue marlin) but ono also works

5 Olowalu limes, juiced (Tahitian limes) Hawaiian salt, to taste

1 jalapeno pepper, sliced paper thin

2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

1 oz. cilantro leaves

Shichimi togorashi (Japanese spice blend) or Aleppo pepper, for garnish

Slice the blocks of fish into thin slices and place in a bowl; you should have eight to ten slices from each block. Cover the fish with the lime juice and a good sprinkling of Hawaiian salt. Toss gently and allow to marinate for no more than to sixty seconds. Once the fish has marinated, it will become opaque on the surface. Remove the fish from the lime juice and array it on serving plates (at least six slices per plate, more if you’re like me). Drizzle the fish with your best extra virgin olive oil.

Garnish with the jalapeno, cilantro leaves and a sprinkling of shichimi togorashi or Aleppo pepper on and around the fish.

Grab some chopsticks and enjoy!

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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M I X O L O G Y M A U I

The bright, bold flavors of locally harvested fruit—lime, guava, pineapple, liliko‘i and more—are central to the cocktails at Mama’s Fish House.

BALI HAI MAY CALL YOU

Find a dream world in a cocktail glass at Mama’s Fish House.

STORY BY BECKY SPEERE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANOALEIGH MARSON

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S

ipping an icy cold cocktail at Mama’s Fish House, I’m filled with a sense of romance and nostalgia. The concoction—made with local Tahitian limes, light rum, curaçao, and fresh sugarcane—transports me to the islands of the South Pacific, where I imagine myself on the deck of a sailboat feeling the sun’s warm rays on my skin. The sound of the rustling fronds in the coconut trees fronting Mama’s becomes,

in my mind, the waves lapping against the side of my imaginary vessel. And fantastical as it may be, my reverie does call to mind an actual scene from the history of Mama’s. The story of how Mama’s founders Doris and Floyd Christenson moved to Maui is a classic Island tale. In 1960 Doris and Floyd set out on a four-year South Pacific sailing adventure with their two-and-ahalf-year-old son, Keith; their daughter Karen was born during their time at sea. In 1964 the family settled on Maui, well before the island had became one of the world’s most famed destinations.

In 1973, driven by their strong work ethic and a commitment to highlight the efforts of Hawai‘i’s fishermen, ranchers, and farmers, they opened Mama’s in Pā‘ia. In the years since, the institution has become a cornerstone of the Maui restaurant scene and so acclaimed that in 2018 it earned a semifinalist nomination for the most Outstanding Restaurant in America from the James Beard Foundation.

When Floyd and Doris watched spectacular sunsets south of the equator, the Bali Hai was the happy hour cocktail that they enjoyed—and the Bali Hai is the name of the cocktail I’m now drinking at their restaurant over half a century later.

In the twenty-first century, at Mama’s, the refreshing, bright and floral Tahitian lime juice is shaken with ice, but Karen Christenson—Mama’s vice president and daughter of Floyd and Doris—confides, “You know, there wasn’t any ice during those South Pacific days.”

“The drink was so good that it didn’t need ice!” I shoot back. I’ll admit that other cocktails at Mama’s—there are over a dozen to chose from—have joined my list of favorites: the strawberry guava fizz, the mai tai roa ae (translated to “the very best”), and a pink margarita with pomegranate liqueur. But sipping my Bali Hai, I am in the moment and hearing the song Rodgers and Hammerstein penned for the musical South Pacific: Bali Hai may call you, Any night, any day, In your heart, you’ll hear it call you: “Come away, come away.”

Mama’s Fish House, 799 Poho Place, Pā‘ia, (808) 579-8488. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. No reservations are needed at either of the two bars at Mama’s but they’re popular… so if you're going, get there early. www.mamasfishhouse.com

39 TH A N NUAL

JUNE 5-7, 2020 MAUI • HAWAII

Join Host Master Sommelier Michael Jordan, MS, CWE and a contingent of world-renowned winemakers, celebrity chefs and Maui’s own culinary stars at oceanfront galas, cooking demonstrations and interactive wine tastings.

WINE TASTING SEMINARS

CELEBRITY CHEFS EVENING GALAS

KAPALUAWINEANDFOOD.COM

experience the

Enjoy the magical enchantment of Honua‘ula. Meet Pele, the goddess of fire, and Kananaka, the mermaid of Maui, and step back into a journey filled with traditional chants and hula bringing the history of our island home to life.

Oceanfront at Grand Wailea, A Waldorf Astoria Resort • Evening Shows Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday • Check in at 4pm, pre-show begins at 5pm • All you can eat buffet dinner • Hosted Bar • Imu Ceremony • Premium & Standard Seating *Dates subject to change. Advance reservations required.

Reservations: 808.874.2355 | www.grandluau.com

SHANOALEIGH MARSON

DINING GUIDE

G U I D E

» B = Breakfast » BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » H = Happy Hour » D = Dinner » N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » R= Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2019

D I N I N G

» $$$$ = $40+

WEST SIDE A‘A ROOTS Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce.

Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies.

International. B, L. $ ALCHEMY MAUI 157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 793-2115 Nutty veggie and white-cheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting.

International. L. $-$$ ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 6613322 Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites.

Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $ AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210 Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos.

Kid-friendly. Mexican.

B, L, D. $ AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$ THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096 Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her grandmother’s pancit palabok is a fine Filipino noodle dish full of shrimp and calamari, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-ginger-

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garlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron, and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$ BREAKWALL SHAVE ICE COMPANY The Wharf Cinema Center Shops, 658 Front St., #104, Lahaina, 661-4900 Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool off with one of the best snow cones on Maui, and discover your favorite flavor. Treats. $ CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the eggs Benedict and mimosas for breakfast and prime select steaks with horseradish creme fraiche for dinner. Fresh pasta with Hāmākua mushrooms in walnut cream sauce for a fresh alternative.Kid-friendly.

Pacific Rim. B, D. $$$–$$$$ CAPTAIN JACK’S ISLAND GRILL The Wharf Cinema Center, 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 Choices include Sirens' shrimp, Black Bart’s BBQ chicken salad, and Black Beard’s Philly cheesesteak.

American. L, D. $–$$ CHOICE HEALTH BAR 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, 661-7711 Juices, smoothies, salads, soups, and açai bowls are all made with fresh ingredients. Specials daily. Second West Maui location: Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $ CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiian-style edamame, a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or Black Rock

Lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ THE COFFEE STORE Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Stop in for a coffee and muffin . . . and you may end up staying for lunch—or later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) Great service and fresh-baked goods, yogurtgranola parfaits, chia pudding, and to-go items. Coffee Shop.

B, L, D. $ COOL CAT CAFÉ 658 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, fish and more, all in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $ DOWN THE HATCH The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 Mermaid fries with cheese, bacon, ranch dressing and lava sauce; towering shrimp cocktails; fresh island fish; and lots of Southern aloha. Great shave ice, too!

(See Breakwall’s listing.)

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, N, R. $$ DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-1234 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kidfriendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ DUKE’S Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine Old Hawai‘i while dining on craband-macadamia-nut wontons or prime rib at this open-air beach house. Kid-friendly.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$ FEAST AT LELE 505 Front St., Lahaina,

667-5353 This classic beachfront lū‘au explores the cultural and culinary world of the Pacific Islands. Open bar.

Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ FLEETWOOD’S ON FRONT ST. 744 Front St., Lahaina, 669-6425. (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific oysters with a tart apple mignonette, grilled Hawaiian shutome, and a one-pound Harley Davidson Hog Burger. Bar opens at 2 p.m. American/British Pub Food. L, H, D, N. $$–$$$$ FOND Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St. Suite 115, Nāpili, 856-0225. Breakfast silog bowls with garlic fried rice, sammies for lunch, Wednesday night fried chicken special and Saturday Chef's Table.

Eurasian. B,L,D. $-$$ FRIDA’S MEXICAN BEACH HOUSE 1287 Front St. Lahaina, 661-1287 Chalupas, fresh aguachile ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and great mixology are among the reasons this seaside restaurant won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Mexican Cuisine. Latininspired. L, H, D. $–$$ HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 868-4806 ‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award winner for Best Coffee Shop, this full-service coffee bar also offers light fare such as granola parfait with fresh fruit, bagels, and ham-and-cheese croissants. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ HONU SEAFOOD & PIZZA 1295 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9390 Mark Ellman serves bicoastal seafood and killer Neapolitan pizza. Seafood/ Pizza. L, D. $$

HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music.

Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$ INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Islandfresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself— and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beercan chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beer-battered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$ JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$ JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117 Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

G U I D E D I N I N G

crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanilla-bean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffeecabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails.

American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$ LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Chef Ryan Luckey rocks Island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly.

Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$ LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance.

After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie!

American. B, L, D. $

LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476 This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $ MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394 Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the healthconscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern.

Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean.

BR (Sat- Sun), L, D. $$ MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728 If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe.

Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $

beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment. whalersvillage.com

MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6216 Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials

rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option.

Coffee Shop. B, L. $ MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$ MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Side listing.

MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., #211, Lahaina, 214-5106 Where can you find a vegan/vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? The same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare—here!

Vegetarian-Vegan. B, L, D, R. $ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.

MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Live music, Polynesian dance, and an Island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700 Eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian.

Reserve this popular lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kidfriendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$

PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341 Try the breakfast locomoco with a slant: “fried rice” tots, Maui onion gravy, and organic poached egg with housemade sausage; Kaua‘i grass-fed beef burger with cured lamb bacon topped with smoked bourbon onion jam for lunch; lobster ravioli for dinner.

Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456 See North Shore listing.

PAILOLO BAR & GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu beef burger served al fresco.

American. L, H, D, N. $–$$ PIONEER INN GRILL & BAR 658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636 Try the newly curated menu by the Bravo channel's Top Chef Lee Anne Wong. Smoked salmon Benedict for breakfast, or cheesy kālua pig nachos with a cold beer at happy hour.

Dig into a plate of shrimp and Portuguese sausage linguine for dinner. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$ PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out.

Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$ PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332 East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $ PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200 Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

a maui culinary experience. plantation food and craft drinks served mountainside; amidst Uavaiišs suTarcane past. millhousemaui.com | 808.270.0333

SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE

G U I D E D I N I N G

ROCKSALT Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Eclectic, globally inspired share plates combine exotic spices, ingredients and flavor profiles with fresh produce from Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features Hawai‘i-produced spirits and house-made infusions. Kid-friendly.

International. B, H, D. R. $$–$$$

ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 At lunchtime, line up for a great Maui burger. For dinner, dive into Roy’s blackened ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger.

Save room for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé.

Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$ ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611 Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens.

Burgers and prime rib, too.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815 Steaks worthy of devotion, top-flight service and a superb wine list earn the chain loyal fans. This venue doesn’t stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean.

American. H, D, N. $$$$ SALE PEPE 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 Brick-oven-fired pizza and flatbreads highlight a menu that changes daily, with items such as pancetta and ceci purée on grilled crostini, and house-made strozzapreti pasta like Chef Michele’s mama makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer.

Italian/Pizza. D. $$ SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and actionpacked, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the

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night. Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with shiso and ponzu sauce) with a swig of saké. Pacific Rim/ Sushi. D, N, R. $$$ THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconutcrusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesday, stay for Grammy-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar.

Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$ SON’Z STEAKHOUSE Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soymustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, line-caught mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/ Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$ STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400 Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea. The ramen broth is extra smoky; the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D. $$ TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426 House-made pastas, agrodolce-style fish of the day, and Italian desserts that stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Taverna is dining heaven. Great wine, cocktails, and exotic craft beer, too!

Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$ TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $ TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600 Start with Oyster Dan—seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece

on your plate. Japanese/ Steak. D, R. $$$ THAI CHEF Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814 This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $ TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011 Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the award-winning Sunday brunch Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919 Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart.

Kid-friendly. Treats. $ ‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos.

Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired

by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past.

Live music nightly. American/ Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$

SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307 Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month.

Sushi. D. $-$$

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

G U I D E D I N I N G

AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251 Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm.

Coffee Shop. $

“We Know Wine” meet our maui team Welcoming our new rep Tod Clayton!

Tod Clayton James Maher W. Maui Sales S. Maui Sales Certified Sommelier Certified Sommelier

Charles Fredy VP, Director of Sales & Marketing Advanced Sommelier

LOOK FOR US EVERYWHERE....

Find our wines around the state at many fine resorts, restaurants and retailers.

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BISTRO MOLOKINI Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly.

American. L, D. $$$ BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a threecocktail tasting is just $20.

L, D, H, N. $ CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia-nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$ COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei.

Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart.

American. L, D. $$ DA KITCHEN Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782 The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumosize eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting.

Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $ DUO Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—

did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$ FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234 Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with housemade pork-sausage meatballs.

Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$ FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle.

Italian. L, H, D. $$$$ FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten- and dairyfree options. International.

L, D. $ FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N. $$$$ HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630 See West Side listing.

HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and

even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, H, D. $–$$$ HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 ‘Aipono's 2018 Chef of the Year Alvin Savella turns out an umami-laden squid ink risotto with crispy soft shell crab, cauliflower, and fennel. For meat lovers, try Chef's prime beef filet with peppercorn jus. Great wine selections!.Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$ ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more.Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $ KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$ KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet.

Indian. L. D. $–$$ KIHEI CAFFE 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe.

Café. B, L. $–$$ KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection.Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s awardwinning menu. Lounge. H. $ LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If steamed clams with housemade "XO" and lup cheong sausage, Maui beef with black garlic, and hulihuli chicken with pineapple kim chee gets your juices going, then head over to Wailea... now! Eat. Drink. Talk story.

Pacific Rim. D. $–$$ LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779 How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream.

Treats. $

LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883 Eggs Benedicts, Florentine-style with spinach or topped with crabcakes, makes getting out of bed easy.

Or how about Longhi's-style French toast with a touch of Grand Marnier? Munch on an open-face chicken picatta sandwich for lunch and seafood pasta for dinner.

Expansive wine list, too!

Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$ LUANA Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kālua-pork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$ MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with

handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into chicken scaloppine.

Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$ THE MARKET 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433 Freshbaked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli.

B, L, D. $$ MATTEO’S OSTERIA 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$ MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered.

Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls.

Omakase heaven! Japanese.

L, H, D. $$ MONKEYPOD KITCHEN 10 Wailea Gateway Pl.,

39TH ANNUAL SEASON

MAUI CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTIVAL

Katherine Collier & Yizhak Schotten, Music Directors

Friday, May 8, 2020

BASICALLY BEETHOVEN

Makawao Union Church • 7:00 pm

Monday, May 11, 2020

ROMANTIC TREASURES

Keawala‘i Congregational Church • 7:00 pm

Wednesday, May 13, 2020

HANA COMMUNITY CONCERT

Wananalua Congregational Church Hana • 6:00 pm

Friday, May 15, 2020

FESTIVAL FINALE

Keawala‘i Congregational Church Makena • 7:00 pm 2020 Festival Musicians Featuring Maui’s Own Kurt Muroki

Katherine Collier, piano Ida Kavafian, violin Benny Kim, violin Kurt Muroki, double bass Tara O’Connor, flute

Anna Polonsky, piano Yizhak Schotten, viola Steven Tenenbom, viola Peter Wiley, cello

For information and admissions,

call 808-298-1862

www.MauiClassicalMusicFestival.org MCMF011120. Publication: Maui No Ka Oi Size: 1/6 pg vertical / 2.27 in w x 4.75 h; cmyk

Just steps from the water’s edge.

Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!

Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com

The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours.

505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com

G U I D E D I N I N G

Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and bananacream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$ MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you footstompin’ happy, and sports-bar action, too.

Sláinte! Irish. L, H, D, N. $–$$$ NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$

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NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/ Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$ NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls!

Thai. L, D. $–$$ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. (See North Shore listing.)

THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038 The best mac-andcheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too.

Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N. $–$$ PITA PARADISE 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too.

Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$ PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 This

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$ THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant.

Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$ ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas!

Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880.

See West Side listing.

SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004 See West Side listing.

SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555 Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location—smack dab on Keawakapu Beach.Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$ SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an awardwinning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, halfpound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge. American. L (daily), H, D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$ SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapple-caramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$ TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanesestyle chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura.

Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$

Fine Handcrafted Jewelry

18k pendant with 12.61ct Solid Black opal and 1.05ctw diamonds.

Designer: Brian Thompson 3655 Baldwin Ave, Makawao HI 96768 808.573.5400 | MauiMasterJewelers@Hawaiiantel.net

MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yaki-marinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/ Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$

Acaí Bowls • Smoothies • Coffee Open Daily 7:30am - 6pm 43 Hana Hwy, Paia

TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbeaninspired libations? Caribbean/ Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei See West Side listing.

CENTRAL @paiabowls • (808) 214-6504

BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 This downtown bistro

serves paella for two, freshcut French fries, and burrata Caprese, along with many fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului.

Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$

sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Freshroasted coffee beans set this experience above the average.

“Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $

CAFÉ O’LEI, DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073 Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain.

American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$

MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929 ‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $

DA KITCHEN Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782 See South Shore listing.

FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256 See South Shore listing.

MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads,

Discover island-inspired resort wear, unique jewelry, locally-made gifts, beach accessories and much more!

Located in The Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa Open 7am – 11pm daily • (808) 667-7801

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THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333 Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too!

Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$

Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food.

Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.

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Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500

Hours and More Information at SeaHouseMaui.com

G U I D E

ONLY ONO Kahului, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches smoked brisket, too! Only delicious!

Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese–American. L, D. $

D I N I N G

Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS

POI BY THE POUND 430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381 Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $ A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry.

Vietnamese. L, D. $ SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L. $

FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER

286 KUPUOHI STREET AT THE TOP OF LAHAINA BUSINESS PARK

RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT

808.667.5400

THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles.

Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $ TIGHT TACOS 349 Hanakai St., Kahului, 707-1221 Housemade corn and flour tortillas filled with rajas, tender beef brisket, pork carnitas or chile-dusted shrimp make for some of Maui's most toothsome tacos. Burritos, Jamaica agua fresca and horchata, too. Takeout.

Mexican. L. $ TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 See West Side listing.

TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753 Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $

Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting

GOURMET LUNCH

SEED to CUP

Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.

Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .

TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.

O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina

By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com

TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311 Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $ ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.

UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku,269-1802 If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon, unagi and a kim chee butter foam can rock your world, then Chef Jayse Sato's restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations and flavors! Epic soft shell crab bao buns! BYOB! Japanese. D, $–$$

See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, salads, sandwiches, and ice cream, all served in a relaxed and eclectic setting.

Coffee Shop. B, L.

WWW.ALOHAMIXEDPLATE.COM • 1285 Front Street, Lahaina, HI • (808) 661-3322

UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and made-from-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop/Snacks. B, L, $–$$ LA PROVENCE 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and blueberrymango scones. On weekends, muscle past long distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (WedFri), D (Thur-Sun). $

S AME

O

• ALWAY S LOC AL BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER RESERVATIONS WALK-INS TAKE-OUT

LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily.

Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$–$$$$

Client Trim 4 Color

O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 667-4341, to reserve a culinary tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven, and fresh-roasted coffee in this bucolic setting.

Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$ ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers.

Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $

NORTH SHORE CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711 See West Side listing.

COLLEEN’S BAR AND RESTAURANT 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 Slip into a comfy booth and enjoy a roasted eggplant sandwich on homemade bread.

The pizza is a well-loved standard. Plush bar setting with original cocktail menu. Kidfriendly. American/Pizza. B, L, H, D. $$ FLATBREAD COMPANY 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene, and organic flatbreads

AND OUR HOMEMADE SWEET & SAVORY PIES

OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM to 8PM

BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER

leodaskitchenandpieshop leodasmaui leodasmaui MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » MAR-APR 2020

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laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N. $$

D I N I N G

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Mama’s is famous for its heart-stirring windward setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine. Each detail evokes old-time island hospitality; in 2018, this Maui institution became a James Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/ Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$

NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials are epic here! Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream. Japanese. L, D. $$–$$$ NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 Fresh out of the gate, this fine-dining restaurant has been garnering rave reviews on the coconut wireless for its menu and casual ambiance.

International. L, D, R. $$$ PAIA BOWLS 43 Hana Hwy., Paia, 214-6504 Get amped with healthy fruit and granola acai bowls, avocado toast and nitro coffee.

You’ll feel like you entered the green room with add-ons like ashwaganda, cordyceps and brain dust in your favorite Blue Majik smoothie. And you’ll be waffling the surf after your iced matcha latte. S Surfer fare. B,L. $ PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Huge slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ WAILUKU COFFEE CO Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229 Downtown goes “county” with a second location, still serving the same tasty salads, sandwiches, ice cream and espresso. Coffee Shop. B, L. $

HĀNA BAREFOOT CAFÉ 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled eggs with Portuguese sausage. Midday, get a burger or mahimahi plate lunch to go. Pacific Rim. B, L. $ THE PRESERVE KITCHEN + BAR Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 Hāna-sourced fish and produce ground an original menu. Try a craft cocktail with fresh juices and sours.

Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $–$$$

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See More Listings at MauiMagazine.net/DiningGuide

Join Maui Stargazing for a science-based sunset and stargazing tour at Haleakalā National Park. View deep space objects through Maui’s largest portable telescope to see the visible planets, nebulae and star clusters of the Milky Way and galaxies beyond!

ASA ELLISON

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To reach these diverse audiences on the world’s Number One Island, contact the KAOI Radio Group, 244-9145 or kaoi@kaoi.net.

W H O

NOBLE CHEF DINNER

W H O ' S

FA I R M O N T K E A L A N I N OV E M B E R 20 19 B E N E F I T FO R U H M AU I C O L L EG E C U L I N A RY P RO G R A M Noble Chef is UH Maui's largest annual fundraiser in support of culinary education.

Susan Bendon and Joan Padgett

Cheech Shurilla, Diane Haynes Woodburn, and Dr. Jocelyn Romero

Mark Malone and Vinnie Linares

Revelers at the fundraiser got into the Christmas spirit early.

Rashley Faye Villamer, Bryan Murillo, Lance Ito, Jojo Vasquez, and Conor Replogle

Leah “Jules” Rodriguez with “Aunty” and Chef Tylun Pang

Chef Roger Stettler, Li Furukawa, and Warlito Osario

Chris Speere, Florence Yee, Becky Speere, and Mars Simpson

Performers took their inspiration from the theme of this year's Noble Chef, A White Christmas.

Adele Rugg and Chef Tom Lelli

UH Maui culinary students with Adele Rugg

Chef Tom Lelli, Charlene Ramos, and Mark Malone

Leah "Jules" Rodriguez

‘A I P O N O WINE DINNER

LEIS FAMILY CLASS ACT O CTO B E R 20 19 B E N E F I T FO R U H M AU I C O L L EG E C U L I N A RY P RO G R A M Karla Mae Madariaga and Chef Tom Lelli

Marilyn Fornwall and Betty Leis

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THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)

HOT

MAR.20

THE

L I S T

OUR LATEST CURATED LIST OF MUSTSEE-ANDDO EVENTS

HO‘OMAU

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7 PM

The Merwin Conservancy Presents Edward Hirsch, Jane Hirshfield, Naomi Shihab Nye, And Kevin Young In The Green Room Four renowned poets will take the stage to read their work and honor the legacy of late literary icon W.S. Merwin. The presentation will conclude the Memorial Series of the Merwin Conservancy’s popular Green Room salons.

McCoy Studio Theater at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center (1 Cameron Way, Kahului), 242-SHOW, MauiArts.org

M A R C H 2 8 , 9 A . M .

In Hawaiian, ho'omau means “to continue.” That’s the objective of this annual event, which celebrates ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (the Hawaiian language) and raises money for Pūnana Leo o Maui’s language immersion schools. Maui Nui Botanical Gardens (150 Kanaloa Ave., Wailuku). Tickets: 244-5676, Hoomau.com

VOLUNTEERS ON VACATION AT HALEAKALĀ NATIONAL PARK EVERY FIRST & THIRD SATURDAY OF THE MONTH, 7:30 A.M. - 2:30 P.M. Volunteer off the beaten path at Haleakalā National Park. Help preserve the park’s native ecosystem by ridding it of garbage and invasive plants. Just a few hours can make a big difference. Round-trip transportation is provided.

To reserve your spot, call 24 hours in advance: 249-8811, ext. 1.

PacificWhale.org/Conservation/ Volunteer-Vacation

04 04 20

IMUA FESTIVALS

OF THE WORLD PRESENTS THE CHINESE LANTERN FESTIVAL RED BALL

Joy Luck cocktail reception begins at 5:30 P.M. Imua Family Services will transport guests to China—no passport required—for a night of a thousand lanterns. The annual gala raises vital funds for Imua’s early childhood development programs and services. Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa (200 Nohea Kai Dr., Lahaina). Tickets: 244-7467, ImuaFamilyServices.org

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HOT

THE

L I S T

‘Aipono APRIL 3

AWARDS GALA

Opening reception at 5:30 P.M.; dinner at 7 P.M. This annual awards gala honors Maui’s best restaurants as voted by the readers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine.

The winners of this year’s competition will be announced at the gala, which this year carries the theme, the Hunger Games. May the odds be ever in your favorite’s favor!

Ticket sales raise funds for the UH Maui College Culinary Arts Program, as well as scholarships for deserving students. The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua (1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Lahaina), MauiMagazine.net/Aipono

APRIL 10&11 CELEBRATION OF

THE ARTS FESTIVAL

A celebration of all things Hawaiian, this two-day event gives residents and visitors an opportunity to experience Hawaiian culture through hands-on art demonstrations, speaker panels, historic films, traditional music and dance, and more. The Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua (1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Lahaina), KapaluaCelebrationOfTheArts.com

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&FLOWER FESTIVAL HA‘IKŪ HO‘OLAULE‘A

APRIL 25,

9 A.M. TO 4 P.M. There are blooms aplenty—along with food, entertainment, and made-on-Maui arts and crafts—at this crowd-favorite fundraiser for Ha‘ikū Elementary School, Ha‘ikū Community Association, and the Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui-Ha‘ikū.

Ha‘ikū Elementary School (10 Pauwela Rd., Ha‘ikū), 727-3750, HaikuHoolaulea.org

Find a wealth of activities and entertainment at MauiMagazine.net/maui-events.

Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine presents

THE 2020 ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS:

“HUNGER GAMES” WHO WILL BE OUR CHAMPIONS? LET THE VOTES BEGIN!

In Hawaiian, ‘ai means “to eat” and pono means “excellence.” The ‘Aipono Gala promotes excellence and distinction among the island’s most talented chefs and leading restaurants.

Awards are given in 40 categories as voted by you, our readers. Join the festivities as we celebrate our culinary stars . . . with gusto!

The ‘Aipono Gala and ‘Aipono Wine Dinner series benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.

SAVE THE DATE

AND DRESS FOR THE GAMES FRIDAY, APRIL 3 THE RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA

PRESENTS

‘ AIPONO RESTAURANT

AWARDS HUNGE R GAME S #AIPONO2020

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I T I N E R A R Y

PERFECT DAY

In South Maui, sun and sand are always within reach.

STORY BY LEHIA APANA ILLUSTRATION BY C.M. BUTZER

Bird’s the word

8–10am At the Keālia Coastal

Boardwalk you can spot the area’s feathered residents, including two of Hawai‘i’s endangered water birds: the Hawaiian coot and Hawaiian stilt. Spanning an easy .4 of a mile, the boardwalk is dotted with interpretive signs that explain which birds to look for. It’s also adjacent to one of the island’s best seaside walks: Sugar Beach, which runs from Mā‘alaea to Kīhei’s north end.

Under the sea

10:15am–1:30pm Explore the

ocean depths at the Maui Ocean Center. This harborfront aquarium celebrates our underwater neighbors and is home to one of the

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largest collections of live Pacific corals in the world.

Marine experts share their mana‘o (knowledge) during interactive talks; twice a day a diver answers questions from inside the aquarium's 750,000-gallon Open Ocean exhibit tank. The Seascape Restaurant has expansive harbor views and aquarium admission isn’t required to dine here. Bonus: The Surfrider Foundation lists the Seascape as an oceanfriendly restaurant that reduces plastic waste and uses sustainable practices.

Aquarium hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Seascape is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; dinners are 5 to 8:30 p.m.

Friday through Sunday. 192

Mā‘alaea Road, Mā‘alaea; 808-270-7000; MauiOceanCenter.com

Toes in the sand

2pm Time for an intermission?

Relax at the beach—my pick is Oneloa at Mākena State Park, a.k.a. “Big Beach”—or head home to rest before the evening activities.

Who needs ice?

6–7:30pm It’s easy to feel like

a kid again. Simply lace up a pair of rollerskates or rollerblades and make the rounds at Maui’s only public skating rink. What the rink lacks in size and frills, it more than makes up for with its Kalama Park oceanfront setting and sunset views. Maui Inline Hockey

Association volunteers run the rental station and concessions; monies raised help with rink upkeep. Public skating is 6 to 8 p.m. Wednesdays; 6 to 9 p.m. Fridays & Saturdays.

1900 S. Kīhei Road, Kīhei; MauiHockey.com

Keep it sporty

8pm Head to The Pint and Cork

at The Shops at Wailea where you can catch the latest televised game, cold brew in hand. Sports bars aren’t known for gourmet fare, but this spot serves up favorites like daily fish specials and a decadent mac and cheese.

Food goes until midnight, the bar until 2 a.m. 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; 808-7272038; ThePintAndCork.com

Serving Hawaii Is Our Business

Pasha Hawaii delivers the broadest scope of ocean transportation services between Hawaii and the Mainland. Our fully enclosed, roll-on/ roll-off vessel M/V Jean Anne provides superior protection for cargo of all sizes and direct service between the Mainland and Maui. Find out more at pashahawaii.com.

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