From Haleakalā’s peaks to Kīlauea’s caldera, the goddess moves with memory of fire
WINDS OF CHANGE
Robby Naish, windsurf pioneer, finds renewal on the trades
LINEAGE RECIPES
Family, flavor and heritage share one name in Wailea +
20 WINDS OF CHANGE
Windsurfing icon
Robby Naish rediscovers freedom and flow, returning to Maui’s trade winds that shaped him.
28
PELE: FIRE AND MYTH
Through Kīlauea’s eruptions, the story of Pele – goddess of fire, volcanoes and eruption – teaches lessons in respect and resilience.
THE POET AND THE FOREST
In Haʻikū’s quiet hills, W.S. Merwin planted poetry that still breathes life into his namesake conservancy protecting the land.
56 MODERN FAMILY RETREAT
A sleek Makena home intentionally blends art, architecture and aloha into modern, multigenerational island living.
Erik Aeder
Daniel Sullivan
contents departments
ON THE COVER Kīlauea's south vent bursts to life at blue hour during one of its longest eruptive cycles, lasting more than 24 hours –a radiant reminder of Pele's presence. Story begins on page 28.
Photo by Travis Morrin
12 EDITOR’S LETTER
Stories and lessons from life on Maui by Publisher and Editor Chris Amundson.
14 TALK STORY
The resilience and abundance of the ‘ulu (breadfruit) tree; An ode to Maui’s trade winds; Kula Country Farms embraces autumn.
ISLAND KITCHEN
At Lineage in Wailea, Executive Chef Emmanuel Eng blends Maui ingredients, Asian roots and artschool precision into flavor-packed, memor y-driven dishes.
46 DINING GUIDE
Everything you need to know about dining on Maui, from casual bites to luxury experiences.
62 IN THEIR OWN WORDS
Sissy Lake-Farm, Kumu Hula of Hālau Makana Aloha O Ka Laua‘e and Hawaiian educator at St. Anthony School, champions kuleana and aloha.
Chris Amundson
VOL. 29, NO. 5 | 2025
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi is an internationally-distributed magazine dedicated to exploring the life and culture of Maui Nui. There’s a saying known in the islands: Maui nō ka ‘oi, Hawaiian for “Maui is the best.” We hope you think so, too.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Chris Amundson
Angela Amundson
Savannah Dagupion
Mark Del Rosario
Erik Makić
Ariella Nardizzi
Pōmaika‘i Krueger
Azelan Amundson
Shiela Camay
Mona de Crinis
Daniel Sullivan
Todd A. Vines
Erik Aeder
Travis Morrin
Paul Wood
Larry Cameron
Lara McGlashan
Travis Rowan
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Where the Wind Blows
WIND IS MORE than a force that shapes the waves along our shores. It is our teacher, whispering through palms, bending the upland grasses and carrying the ocean’s perfume inland. Invisible yet undeniable, it guides both Maui and those of us who call the island home.
From our home in the hills above Wailuku, beneath Mauna Kahalawai, I can see the North Shore shimmer in the distance – sails and kites tracing bright arcs across the water as riders harness the trades. Makani – the Hawaiian word for wind – isn’t just weather; it’s life itself, powering work, play and spirit alike.
Here on the Valley Isle, the makani defines daily rhythm, a steady force that makes Maui the wind and water sports capital of the world. Trade winds blow nearly 80 percent of the year, accelerating through the valley between Haleakalā and Mauna Kahalawai to create world-class conditions for windsurfing, kitesurfing and foiling.
Those steady trades also temper the island’s heat, clear volcanic haze and feed the rain cycle that sustains Maui’s valleys and farms. At Ho‘okipa Beach Park, the same gusts that shape the ocean’s edge draw athletes from across the globe, filling the horizon with color and motion that mirrors Maui’s own restless beauty.
We feel that pulse in “Winds of Change,” where Robby Naish’s life has been defined by
the trades of Ho‘okipa. For decades he chased them, raced them and built a global business around them – until returning to simply move with the wind brought freedom again. Those same trades that lift his sail are the same that cool our days, bring rain to our valleys and carry the scent of plumeria through the air.
The land teaches resilience, patience and care. In Peʻahi, U.S. Poet Laureate W.S. Merwin planted a forest that listens to the wind, the trades bringing the moisture and renewal that turned barren fields into living forest. Over four decades, he and his wife Paula planted more than 3,000 palms across 19 acres, transforming dry soil into one of the world’s most diverse palm collections. “The Poet and The Forest” shares how his life turned wind and rain into a second growth of both land and spirit.
In Hawaiian tradition, wind and fire move together. “Pele: Fire, Myth and the Fountains of Today” reminds us that before she settled on Hawaiʻi Island, Pele shaped Maui’s volcanic peaks and the flows that reached the ocean. The same breath that feeds her fires rides the trades, carrying destruction and creation hand in hand.
Those lessons continue in the work of Sissy Lake-Farm, whose kuleana, the responsibility we inherit, flows like the wind through language, chant and community. She reminds us that to speak or sing in ʻŌlelo Hawaiʻi is to let the island breathe through us.
As the trade winds rise along our shores and the island breathes beneath them, may we all find guidance, inspiration and balance in this breath between seasons.
With Aloha, Chris Amundson Publisher & Editor chris@mauimagazine.net
ʻ
Ulu: Breadfruit and
the gift of Kū
Rooted in legend and resilience, the ʻulu tree continues to nourish body and spirit.
by Savannah Dagupion
ACROSS MAUI’S FERTILE lowlands, where the salty ocean air blows and the sun warms the land in rich golden light, ʻulu (breadfruit) trees rise tall with broad canopies of large leaves that spread outward like open hands. Among the branches hang heavy, bright green globes – their skin is patterned with bumps and firm to the touch, while the flesh inside is smooth, promising nourishment, abundance and resilience.
This canoe crop was carried across the Pacific by early Polynesian voyagers and took root in Hawaiʻi as a vital source of food and resources for centuries. As with many plants, ancient Hawaiians used every part of the ʻulu tree: trunks and limbs provided wood for building, the inner bark was beaten into kapa (cloth) or twisted into rope, and the sticky sap served for caulking and glue. The leaves acted as natural platters, protective wraps or even gentle
Daniel Sullivan
sandpaper, while different parts of the tree were also prized for traditional medicine.
With every part carrying purpose, the most well-known legend behind the ʻulu endures. The moʻolelo (story) tells of the god Kū, who often walked among humans as a mortal. He fell in love with a human woman and lived alongside her in her village, tending the land and raising a family.
One day, an extreme drought and famine struck, leaving the village hungry. His family, unaware of his godly status, did not know that Kū used his powers to sacrifice himself, sinking into the earth so his loved ones would not starve. His wife wept where he disappeared, her tears watering the soil. From that spot emerged a small shoot that grew into the first ʻulu tree. Its branches were heavy with fruit – enough to feed the village. Kū visited his wife in her dreams, showing her how to prepare the fruit. She
shared the fruit and knowledge, and the village thrived once again.
Today, ʻulu remains a symbol of nourishment and prosperity. Community organizations and farmers see it as a key to food security, as the tree can withstand drought, yield abundantly and grow across a wide range of climates and elevations.
The fruit itself is low in fat, gluten free and an excellent source of fiber, protein and essential vitamins and minerals. Its starch recalls the comfort of bread or potato, slipping into puddings or desserts with grace or taking center stage in stews, salads, poke and burgers.
Beneath the canopy of an ʻulu tree, beauty and necessity coexist while story and meal intertwine. Its branches carry the weight of history and the promise of tomorrow. Rooted in sense of place, it feeds the body and the spirit alike.
Beneath the leafy canopy of the ʻulu (breadfruit) tree, centuries of Hawaiian tradition and sustenance come to life. Revered for its abundant fruit and many uses, the ʻulu symbolizes sacrifice and renewal. This resilient tree remains a symbol of food security across Maui and beyond.
Alamy
The Breath Between Seasons
Each fall, Maui’s trade winds soften and the air grows still, revealing the delicate balance that shapes island life.
by Chris Amundson
WHEN THE TRADE winds ease, Maui changes character. The sea in Kahului Harbor turns mirror-smooth. Heat settles over the Central Valley. Clouds gather behind Haleakalā, their bases sinking lower until the mountain seems to wear a shawl. It is a familiar pause – the shift from summer’s steady northeast trades to the unsettled air of the winter months.
The trade winds are steady northeast breezes driven by the vast Pacific highpressure system. They sweep across the tropics, steering clouds toward Hawai‘i and setting the islands’ weather in motion.
From May through September, trades blow on roughly nine days out of ten. By October that reliability falters; in winter, they hold for barely half the days of the season. When high-pressure systems slide north or subtropical lows drift past, the northeast flow collapses and kona winds take their place, sweeping up from the south with
warm, humid air. The stillness or reversal lasts only days, yet the change can be felt everywhere – in sticky afternoons, hazy horizons and the deep quiet of the valleys.
Centuries ago, the Pacific’s rhythm shifted in a broader way. Climate records drawn from coral and tree rings suggest that between about 1140 and 1260 AD – during what scientists call the Medieval Climate Anomaly – trade winds may have weakened and circulation across the Pacific subtly changed.
These altered patterns could have influenced ocean routes and weather across Polynesia, a period when voyagers expanded their reach to Aotearoa, Rapa Nui and eventually Hawai‘i. The same atmospheric variations that bring calm to Maui each winter once helped shape the paths of exploration across the Pacific.
Even when the surface feels calm, the air is not still. Maui’s terrain – two mountain
masses divided by the Central Valley – creates its own circulations. Under normal trades, Haleakalā’s slopes generate twin vortices on the leeward side: one spinning clockwise, the other counterclockwise.
At night, cool air drains through the valleys; by day, the sun draws it upslope again. When the trades fade, these local winds are what remain – faint, shifting, often only strong enough to stir the dry grasses or carry the scent of the ocean inland.
Higher up, a trade-wind inversion marks the boundary between moist marine air and the dry layer above. It usually sits between 4,000 and 8,000 feet, trapping clouds and rainfall below. When trades weaken, that layer sinks and heat builds in the lowlands. Without the cleansing flow, volcanic emissions from Hawai‘i Island drift westward, and vog lingers until the next breeze restores balance.
For generations, Hawaiians read these
patterns long before weather stations did. In ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i, wind is makani, and dozens of names describe its character and direction. The brisk northeast trades are moa‘e, the humid southerlies kona and a gentle seaside breeze kaiāulu. When the winds grow erratic, it is not absence but transition – one current yielding to another.
Cultural practitioners speak of Laʻamaomao, goddess of the winds, who carries them in her ipu, or gourd. When calm endures too long, they may kāhea i nā makani o Laʻamaomao – call upon her winds to awaken and bring favorable weather. It is not a saying but a practice, an acknowledgment that motion in the air is part of the islands’ living pulse.
By late fall, intermittent trade winds press cool, clean air back across the chain. The inversion lifts, the vog thins and clouds rise again to the windward ridges. The pause ends; the island begins to breathe again.
Daniel Sullivan
Kula Country Farms
Lighting the way for Maui’s farming ‘ohana
story by Mona de Crinis photographs by Chris Amundson
A COLORFUL ROADSIDE
landmark just a coconut’s toss from Rice Park, Kula Country Farms invites travelers to slow down and savor the flavor of Upcountry life. The cheerful general store brims with produce from local growers, specialty jams, sauces and other made-on-Maui goods, while hand-lettered signs, hay-filled wagons and flower beds hint at the family spirit within.
Open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., the farm stand – an outgrowth of Chauncy and Teena Monden’s 40-acre family farm in Polipoli – is far more than a place to sell extra crops. Visitors can browse for just-picked fruits and vegetables, honey, baked goods, spices and crafts; sip a hot or iced drink from the Maile Tea Company cart; or trade a favorite novel at the Free Little Library hut. Each October the fields transform into the island’s best-known Pumpkin Patch, drawing families for food, games, entertainment, artisan booths and more than two dozen varieties of pumpkins and gourds.
Behind the fun lies a deeper purpose: preserving a 70-year legacy of farming on Haleakalā’s slopes. The Monden family’s story began in the 1940s when Chauncy’s Japanese immigrant family first planted cabbage and onions in the region’s fertile soil. Today Chauncy, a fourth-generation farmer, and his wife, Teena, have expanded production to include strawberries, blueberries, flowers, pumpkins and more.
Operating a small farm on Maui, however, is an endurance test. Rising costs,
Chauncy and Teena Monden nurture the land and community on their 40-acre upcountry farm, showing how small family farms can endure, adapt and thrive.
labor shortages and competition for grocery store shelf space make creativity essential. The retail stand and leased acreage makai of Kula Highway now provide vital supplemental income that keeps the family business alive. “It’s a struggle,” Teena said. “Farming is back-breaking work. It’s hard to find people who want to do it.”
To bridge that gap, she pours energy into events and displays that connect visitors to local agriculture. Seasonal markets feature neighboring growers; school groups learn how food travels from seed to table. What began as a roadside stand has become an Upcountry gathering place – part produce market, part community classroom, wholly rooted in laulima, or many hands working together.
Hope for Maui’s agricultural future may rest, fittingly, in the next generation. Two of the Mondens’ three adult children have returned to the farm, blending tradition with technology. One daughter founded the Maile Tea Company, growing and drying mamaki leaves on site for her signature teas. Their son operates agricultural
drones – some the size of a small van – to help manage more than 50 acres of crops. The couple’s other daughter is studying veterinary medicine in Scotland, where Teena noticed farming communities that thrive by supporting one another. “If you’re going to serve eggs in your restaurant, they come from the farmer down the road,” she said. “They respect that they’re a small community that needs each other.”
That same spirit defines Kula Country Farms. What started as a family venture has become a beacon for Maui’s broader farming ʻohana – a place where locals and visitors alike are reminded that sustainability begins with connection. By nurturing both the land and the relationships around it, the Mondens are proving that the island’s small farms can endure, adapt and flourish.
Kula Country Farms stands as more than a picturesque stop on the highway – it’s a living reminder that Maui’s agricultural roots still run deep, and that with cooperation and care, they’ll continue to bear fruit for generations to come.
Each October, the fields transform into the island’s bestknown pumpkin patch.
Legendary waterman Robby Naish on corporate freedom, rediscovering his windsurfing roots and riding life’s next wave.
story by Todd A. Vines photographs by Erik Aeder
LATE-MORNING TRADES sweep across Hoʻokipa Beach Park as sails flash against the whitecaps. Maui’s Robby Naish steps from the sand to the sea, board under his arm, grin easy and familiar. For him, it’s still about the wind.
For half a century, the name Naish has been synonymous with wind, waves and water sport. He began his extraordinary career in 1976, claiming his first world windsurfing title at age 13. He went on to secure 24 world championships across multiple disciplines and cement his place as the sport’s most influential figure.
When kiteboarding emerged in the late 1990s, Naish embraced it, leveraging his expertise to design groundbreaking equipment and propel the sport to global prominence. He did the same for stand-up paddling, and again for wing foiling, which combines an inflatable wing with a hydrofoil board to glide above the water.
Time and again, Naish has chosen to harness the wind rather than hide from it. Now, at 62, the air around him is again in motion. Having sold his company, he’s reflective, free and back to the element that started it all.
LESS STRESS, MORE STOKE
Robby Naish, shaped by Maui’s wind and waves, carves across the ocean where elements that defined his youth still call him. Now 62, after years steering his successful brand, the windsurfing legend has stepped back from business to spend more time doing what he loves most.
“As you get older, your outlook on life changes – at least mine did,” said Naish, fresh off a session at Keoneʻōʻio Bay (La Perouse), reflecting on life after business.
Naish, who has called Maui home since 1987, founded Naish Sails Hawaii (later Naish International) in 1994. He began by making sails for windsurfing, then expanded into kiteboarding and stand-up paddling. The hard-charging athlete became a pioneer in designing gear that pushed the limits of what riders could do on water.
“The goal wasn’t to get as big as possible or to make as much money as possible,” he said. “It was to make stuff that was fun, that we enjoyed – and if we could make money doing it, great.”
After nearly three decades of running the brand, Naish realized the business had
begun to define him more than the ocean did. In 2023, Naish sold the company to Dutch-based Kubus Sports, its largest distributor, while retaining the rights to his name and brand.
“I started stressing over things that never used to bother me,” he said. “The fun and games, the design, the graphics, the testing – I loved all that. But the business side of business was dragging me down. It wasn’t healthy, and I needed to pull the plug.”
Naish still consults with the company, tests prototypes and joins the occasional board meeting, but his routine now runs on salt and trade winds, not spreadsheets.
“The sale has had a huge impact on my demeanor and health,” he said. “I’m back to enjoying the sports. My outlook and purpose are back to what they were when I was 16.”
PRODIGY OF THE WIND
Naish grew up on Oʻahu, the son of surfer and board-shaper Rick Naish. He surfed, skimboarded and sailed Hobie Cats across Kailua Bay until, in 1974, locals introduced windsurfing to the North Shore. The 11-yearold was instantly hooked.
“When I started riding, there was only one windsurfer – ‘the Windsurfer,’ ” he said. “It was like if there was only one car – ‘the car.’ You could only get one board, one sail, one mast, one boom. That’s what it was.”
Hawaiʻi soon became a windsurfing mecca. Naish trained daily, won local contests, then nationals in California, and finally the 1976 world championship in the Bahamas. The 13-year-old phenom stunned the sport
with his fluid control and fearless speed, becoming the youngest world champion in history.
He defended his title three more years –Sardinia (1977), Cancun (1978) and Florida (1979) – then dominated the 1980s and ’90s. When kiteboarding arrived, Naish again led the charge, winning world titles in slalom (1998) and in both slalom and jumping (1999).
By the time he left competition, Naish had racked up more than 150 victories. He was inducted into the Professional Windsurfers Association Hall of Fame in 2002 and the Hawai‘i Waterman Hall of Fame in 2019 – honors that confirmed his place among the greats.
NORTH SHORE NOTABILITY
Competition first brought Naish to Maui. After turning pro in 1981, he began entering events on the Valley Isle.
“Some of the first pro events in the sport were over here,” he said. “As the equipment got better and the level got higher, you needed more wind, so the sport polarized to places that were consistently windy.”
He found Maui’s North Shore – especially the blue water fronting Hoʻokipa Beach Park – offered the perfect laboratory for innovation. The combination of steady trades and powerful surf allowed him to develop his revolutionary style, and he soon made Maui home, settling in Haʻikū.
At 13, Naish became the youngest windsurfing world champion in history by winning the 1976 title in the Bahamas. Over the course of his career, he’s claimed more than 150 victories. Naish has inspired and mentored generations of riders, including Maui’s Kai Lenny, who carry his legacy and influence into new disciplines around the world.
Aside from his achievements on the water, he ran Naish International, a brand known for pioneering sails, boards and equipment for water sports, for nearly three decades. After selling it in 2023, his new routine runs on salt and wind instead of spreadsheets.
“That stretch between the airport, Kanahā, Spreckelsville and Hoʻokipa became the focal point for the sport – not only professionally but for anyone wanting to ride.”
Maui became the stage for many of Naish’s greatest victories and the global epicenter of windsurfing. His mastery of Hoʻokipa’s challenging waves earned worldwide attention.
“I know the lineup so well it’s really an unfair advantage,” he said with a grin. “I could surf it with my eyes closed.”
The annual Aloha Classic at Hoʻokipa –held each October or November and often called the Super Bowl of windsurfing – became the sport’s premier event, with Naish often winning before hometown crowds.
“Millions of eyes were looking at Maui because of its connection to windsurfing, kiting, stand-up paddling and wing foiling – all of which we started here,” he said. “These sports have spread everywhere, but in the early years, Maui was the focus.”
As an ambassador of wind and wave, Na-
ish has inspired generations of riders and mentored many through his brand’s programs – Maui’s Kai Lenny among them. Over the years, Naish has quietly mentored a generation of riders – from windsurfers and kiters to foilers – many of whom now carry his influence into new disciplines around the world. His giveback spans from global to local: he’s a member of the Laureus World Sports Academy, which promotes sport as a force for good, and he often visits the Pāʻia Youth & Cultural Center to sail with kids whose boards still bear his name.
HOME AT HOʻOKIPA
Though Naish has always embraced change, he’s found renewed joy in the sport that started it all. He’s back windsurfing nearly every windy day at Hoʻokipa.
“Whenever a new sport comes in, I tend to really get into it,” he said. “I’ll grow it, push it, have fun reinventing myself. But the things I have passion for always cycle back. Windsurfing has come full on – I’m
having a blast again.”
The future doesn’t seem to concern him much. The day’s forecast does. Ask Robby Naish what’s next, and he just smiles.
“I’m more of a dreamer than a goal-setter.”
Naish’s acrobatics may not be as radical as they once were, but he’s still swift across the water – and his life on land has found its own rhythm.
“[I’m] not doing crazy things. Carving out a healthy path. I’m enjoying life a bit more. I’m spending more time with family. I’m trying to be a different person in terms of how I view the universe around me, and the appreciation for how lucky I am.”
To younger riders watching from shore, Naish remains proof that mastery isn’t about conquering the elements but learning to move with them.
As the wind rises along Maui’s North Shore, Naish glances toward the whitecaps. For a man who has built his life on motion, standing still has never held much appeal.
Though his competitive and business days have passed, Naish can still be seen in the wind at Hoʻokipa – a living reminder that the spirit of the sport is timeless.
PELE
FIRE, MYTH & THE FOUNTAINS OF TODAY
story by Chris Amundson | photographs by Travis Morrin
THE NIGHT SKY above Hawaiʻi Island glows red. From the rim of Halemaʻumaʻu crater, lava fountains shoot hundreds of feet into the air, at times soaring higher than 1,000 feet, illuminating the clouds and casting a molten reflection across the land. Visitors gather at safe overlooks in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, their faces lit by the glow. For Native Hawaiians, it is not only a spectacle of nature but a sign that Pele, goddess of volcanoes, is alive and moving once more. Her story has been told for centuries in chant, hula and legend. Pele is at once creator and destroyer, fierce and generous, feared and beloved. She traveled across the islands from her birthplace in Kahiki, leaving marks on Kauaʻi, Oʻahu and Maui before settling at last in Kīlauea. To understand today’s eruptions is to see them not as random geology but as part of a long arc in which Pele shapes the land and speaks to her people about respect, resilience and balance.
Since 2024, Kīlauea on Hawaiʻi Island has steadily erupted, drawing visitors to marvel at Pele’s presence.
A self-timed astrophotograph reveals Kīlauea’s glowing caldera beneath the vibrant Milky Way –a rare convergence of clear skies, an active volcano and a new moon.
HAWAIIAN TRADITION remembers Pele arriving on Maui before crossing the channel to Hawaiʻi Island. Her digging staff tested Haleakalā’s slopes and left behind cinder cones and the stark lava fields at La Perouse. But Maui was not her home. Chants recall Maui as a boundary, a place where Pele passed through before finding her dwelling in Halemaʻ uma ʻu. Her final journey carried her to Kīlauea, where she remains today.
History records moments when Pele’s presence was unmistakable. In 1790, during the wars of Kamehameha I, Chief Keōua Kūʻahuʻula led his warriors across Kīlauea’s slopes when Pele erupted with explosive force. Ash rained down, suffocating hundreds of men, their footprints preserved in the cinders. For Hawaiians, this was no accident – it was Pele intervening in human affairs, clearing the way for Kamehameha’s rise and the unification of the islands.
Through centuries, her story has been preserved in chants such as Aia lā ‘o Pele i Hawai‘i, which proclaim her dancing at Maukele, consuming Puna and flashing in the heavens. Hula performers embody her fiery energy with strong, grounded movements. These performances keep alive the truth that Pele is not a myth in the Western sense but an akua – a living force – whose power continues to shape the land.
Today, that power is on vivid display. Since late 2024, Kīlauea has erupted in spectacular bursts, sending lava fountains high into the air. Unlike the devastating 2018 eruption that destroyed more than 700 homes, this activity is contained within Halemaʻ uma ʻu. Scientists call the pattern unusual – eruptions that pause and restart in cycles, with fountains reaching heights unseen in decades. For locals and visitors alike, it is mesmerizing, a chance to see creation in real time.
Captured during blue hour, the scene glows with deep reds and purples .
THE EXPERIENCE of standing at the rim is visceral. The earth rumbles underfoot, the air smells of sulfur and strands of volcanic glass – Pele’s hair – drift on the wind. Families watch quietly while cultural practitioners leave offerings of ʻōhelo berries, lei and gin. For many, the sight is both thrilling and humbling: Pele is walking, breathing, dancing.
Maui-based photographer Travis Morrin, who has made Kīlauea his second home, says the draw goes beyond the spectacle: “Sometimes I’ll take just a few photos and then sit for hours, because I love to simply be in the volcano’s presence. It has a creative and transformative energy – you’re literally watching the island grow before your eyes.”
What she is saying is left to interpretation. Some kanaka (native Hawaiians) believe Pele is reminding us to respect the ʻāina, the living land. Others see her contained eruptions as a gift – a display of beauty without devastation, a chance to witness her power safely. Still others read her activity as a call for balance, whether in the way people live on the land, treat each other or prepare for the future.
On Maui, Pele’s story is remembered in the island’s landforms, but her presence today feels closest on Hawaiʻi Island, where Halemaʻ uma ʻu glows with fire. To witness it is to feel history stretching from Keōua’s fallen warriors to the chants of hula dancers to the families watching the fountains today. Pele is here, speaking as she has always spoken, through lava and creation. The meaning of her message is left to each of us – but the reminder is clear: the land is alive, and so is she.
At Keanakākoʻi Overlook, spectators gather in reverant awe as Pele’s fiery fountains light the caldera – the park’s closest view and an unparalleled opportunity for photographers to capture the eruption’s intensity.
PHOTO TIPS FROM TRAVIS MORRIN
Chasing Pele with a Camera
Travis Morrin has photographed nearly every episode of Kīlauea’s recent eruptions. His advice for anyone hoping to capture Pele’s fire:
•
Prepare for the weather – Volcano nights can be wet, windy and cold. Pack rain gear for yourself and covers for your lenses.
Bring a tripod – Essential for long exposures and low-light shots of glowing lava.
Use the right lenses – A wide angle to capture the landscape and a mid-zoom (70200mm) for closer detail.
Chase the blue hour – The 20-30 minutes before sunrise and after sunset create the richest reds, purples and blues against the glow.
Be patient – “Sometimes the best photo is the one you don’t take,” says Morrin. “Sit, watch and let Pele’s presence sink in.”
Respect the place – Pele’s home is sacred. Approach with humility and remember you are photographing more than scenery.
For prints and photo tours:
TravisMorrinPhotography.com
HOW TO SEE PELE’S FIRE FROM MAUI
GETTING THERE
Flights: Hawaiian Airlines & Southwest fly daily from Kahului (OGG) to Hilo (ITO) and Kona (KOA). Hilo is closer to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (45 minutes by car); Kona requires a 2+ hour drive. Roundtrip fares usually $120-$180.
Mokulele Airlines offers more flexible interisland service from Kahului (OGG), Kapalua (JHM) and Hana (HNM). They use 9-seat Cessna Caravans for scenic low-altitude flights. Fares often $100-$150 each way. Hilo flights are best for volcano viewing; Kona flights are more frequent but farther from the park.
Rental Car: Reserve in advance. From Hilo Airport, it’s about a 45-minute drive up to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. Rates $50-$70 per day for compact cars.
WHEN TO ARRIVE
Daylight & Night Glow: Arrive by mid-afternoon to explore overlooks and stay until after sunset for the full glow.
Crowds: Evenings draw heavy traffic; parking fills quickly.
WHERE TO DRIVE
Crater Rim Drive: Loops past Kīlauea Overlook and other pullouts with direct views of Halemaʻ uma ʻ u.
Chain of Craters Road: Longer route through older lava fields, ending at the coast.
Safety: Stay behind railings; volcanic gas and unstable ground are serious hazards.
COSTS
Roundtrip airfare: $200-$300
Car rental: $50-$70 per day
Park entry: $30 per vehicle (7 days)
Lodging (optional): $150-$250 per night
PRO TIP
Pack warm layers – the summit can be chilly even while Pele’s fire burns bright. Bring water, snacks and patience: she decides when and how she will show herself.
Halemaʻumaʻu Trail descends through a rain forest to the floor of Kaluapele (Kīlauea caldera).
Poet
and the
Forest
story by Paul Wood portrait by Larry Cameron photographs by Daniel Sullivan
In 1976, poet
in
where he built his home and cultivated the land into a thriving conservancy.
Seeking solitude and renewal, W.S. Merwin turned a scarred Maui hillside into a sanctuary of palms & poetry.
ON A WINDSWEPT ridge above Maui’s north shore in 1976, W.S. Merwin began with nothing but barren soil and time. The poet who had long sought silence and meaning found both here, in a place apart from the world he had known.
Merwin built his home by hand – off the grid, no telephone – meditating each morning, writing each day and planting a tree each afternoon until the hillside became a forest.
Few on Maui knew him. Famous in Manhattan, he lived quietly in Peʻahi. By 2010, with two Pulitzer prizes and 50 books behind him, he became the seventeenth United States Poet Laureate.
Locals later learned that the soft-spoken man on a weathered Upcountry farm was among America’s most honored poets. He valued solitude but he was no recluse. He had a close network of island friends, received visits from literary colleagues, married one of them – his wife Paula Dun-
away – and occasionally appeared at local schools and the college. At Mana Foods in Pāʻia, shoppers may have brushed past him without knowing it.
For a man so private, Merwin spoke with rare candor in a 2010 PBS interview with journalist Jeffrey Brown, who asked about his daily life on Maui: “In Hawaiʻi you live … away?”
“Pretty well off the grid, yes,” Merwin replied. “I love them both. When I’m in the country I miss the city – some of the time. When I’m in the city I miss the country all the time.”
Merwin died at his home in 2019 at 91, having outlived his wife by two years. By then he had expanded his land to 19 acres and transformed the once-depleted hillside into a tropical arboretum – a forest of towering palms from across the world, many endangered in their native ranges. He had done it one tree at a time, one bucket of water at a time each afternoon.
W.S. Merwin settled
Hāʻiku,
His beloved property in Makawao is now known as The Merwin Conservancy. It holds more than 3,000 palms representing 480 species – one of the most extensive palm collections on earth.
Today the nonprofit carries Merwin’s quiet vision forward, maintaining the property and extending his legacy through residencies and educational programs. Residents create in the stillness he cultivated, while visitors learn to see language, landscape and care for the earth as one practice.
The Conservancy stands as a living testament to what one person can do with steady, daily care for the earth. For many, it’s not a tourist attraction but a pilgrimage – a quiet return to the vision of a poet.
WILLIAM STANLEY MERWIN was a Princeton graduate, born in 1927, the son of a Presbyterian minister. In his 20s he gained attention for a new kind of poem –spare, unpunctuated and open-ended.
In “Dusk in Winter,” he wrote:
The sun sets in the cold without friends
Without reproaches after all it has done for us
It goes down believing in nothing
When it has gone I hear the stream running after it
It has brought its flute it is a long way
With his boyish good looks, bright blue eyes and genteel East Coast Ivy League manners, Merwin didn’t seem the type to end up living without plumbing on the ragged edge of a tropical island. Yet he was drawn to Zen Buddhism and to the guidance of Robert Aitken.
Aitken Roshi, as he was known, had grown up in Honolulu. Captured in Guam during World War II and imprisoned in Japan, he became a fervent student of Zen. After his release he earned the title “roshi” and, in the 1970s, maintained the Maui Zendo in Haʻikū, a quiet hall above a bend on Kaupakalua Road. There Merwin found both Zen and Upcountry Maui. After a few years, Aitken returned to Honolulu. Merwin stayed.
By the early 1970s Maui was in transition. Sugar and pineapple still dominated the landscape, but the first resorts were rising along the coast as the plantation era gave way to tourism and suburban life. Gas-powered machinery had reduced the need for labor.
The plantation system had long rested on a social hierarchy of a few wealthy white landowners, “haoles” as locals called them, and legions of imported laborers housed in camps. When the companies built tract housing in town, the descendants of those workers became mortgage-payers, tradespeople, teachers and politicians. The core of the community became “locals.”
For most working families, landownership meant a small lot in town, while remote acreages – long cleared for pineapple and left without water, roads or electricity – remained within reach for only the most determined. A new wave of settlers – “da hippies,” to some – made their way along the island’s backroads; however, Merwin was not one of them.
He arrived without baggage of “haole” or “local,” only with intent. His motivation, he later wrote: “The condition of the soil did not, in itself, daunt me. I had long dreamed of having a chance, one day, to try to restore a bit of the earth’s surface that had been abused by human ‘improvement.’ ”
“I loved the windswept ridge, empty of the sounds of machines, just as it was, with its tawny dry grass waving in the wind of late summer.” Beyond that, the sea reached to Alaska.
“I was captivated by the sense of distance along the coast,” he wrote.
Far from the literary circles that once defined him, Merwin embraced a life of solitude and simplicity until his passing in 2019, rising each day to meditate, write and tend to his trees.
MUSING ABOUT ANCIENT Taoist and Buddhist monasteries, he hoped to have a house “set among trees and visible only as one actually arrived there on foot.” Working with skilled off-grid neighbors, he created this monastic refuge – a small garage at roadside, a path downslope to the hushed serenity of the main house.
Both stand above rain-fed cisterns, and the roof gleams, as Merwin wrote, with “the green, glazed tiles of Oriental houses in the islands and around the Pacific Rim.” He wrote that he wanted “to disturb the land as little as possible and to make as small a footprint of cement as possible,” adding that “no bulldozer was used at all in preparing the site for the house.”
The floors, made of dense, dark auburn eucalyptus harvested and cured on Maui, are built to endure for generations. The architecture’s clean dimensions emphasize space and silence, the white walls and un-
ornamented wood inviting attention. The dojo (meditation room) sits adjacent to the study. Merwin’s writing room remains as he left it – airy, with hundreds of worn, annotated books on plain pine shelves, a broad desk hewn from a single slab, palm fronds glinting beyond the windows.
Reflecting on his design process, he wrote: “I realized that the idol of the world of terminal acceleration had never been my guide. Convenience, I believe, never comes gratis, and invasion is always part of the price.”
Access is limited and the quiet remains – a final echo of the silence and meaning he sought. Those who enter often sense what Merwin himself described: “Visitors arriving here for the first time … sometimes say, as they come in the gate, that it seems like somewhere with a clear character of its own – that of a place apart.”
In the stillness of that place, the poet’s vision endures.
Today, The Merwin Conservancy carries his vision forward. Home to one of the most extensive palm collections on earth, it serves as a sanctuary for art, ecology and reflection.
A Family of FLAVOR
At Lineage, staff meals, family roots and bold flavors drive a menu that redefines Maui dining.
story
and photographs by
Chris Amundson
THE PANS RATTLE, the prep line hums, and just before service Executive Chef Emmanuel Eng gathers the kitchen crew. On the counter sits staff meal, hot, abundant and carefully prepared. “It’s one of my favorite parts of the day,” he said. “Cooking for my team reminds me why I cook in the first place.”
At Lineage, that means feeding nearly two dozen staff members – cooks, servers, bartenders, dishwashers – before the night’s guests arrive. Their menu isn’t printed, but it’s a ritual: rice, noodles, proteins, vegetables, enough to keep the team nourished through service.
The habit traces back to his days at San Francisco’s Boulevard, where staff meal wasn’t scraps but prime short ribs, fresh salads and sauces served buffet-style to 75 employees. When he once let it slip, Chef Nancy Oakes pulled him aside. “That day I became a believer,” Eng recalled. “Cooking for your people matters as much as cooking for the guest.” It’s a lesson that has stayed with Chef Eng, shaping how he runs his own kitchen today.
That same spirit defines Lineage, which opened in 2018 at The Shops at Wailea, just steps from Island Gourmet Market – ABC Stores’ elevated concept for bentos, wine and gifts. Lineage is owned by the same family that founded ABC, a fitting link given its name. Conceived by Top Chef alum Sheldon Simeon, Lineage was built as a tribute to Hawai‘i’s family table: hearty, shareable food polished enough to feel celebratory.
When Eng took the helm in 2021, he brought his own lineage into the mix. Raised in Portland and trained in San Francisco, he developed a style rooted in memory and composition. An art-school background shows on the plate. He thinks in terms of composition, proportion and contrast, the same way he once did with sculptures and glassblowing.
For Eng, memory is the most important ingredient. Inspired by a high school memory from the Pacific Northwest, Thai peanut noodles have appeared on Lineage’s menu as a vegetarian favorite. His grandmother’s Chinese braises inspire brisket perfumed with cinnamon, star anise and dried tangerine peel. Even a childhood curiosity about clam dip led to Lineage’s nowfamous Kimchee Bacon Clam Dip. “I’m not chasing Instagram moments,” he said. “I’m chasing flavor and memory.”
That blend of memory and innovation hasn’t gone unnoticed: in 2025, Lineage earned Maui Nō Ka ʻOi magazine’s Gold ʻAipono Award for Most Innovative Menu, recognition that Eng and his team continue to push Maui dining forward while staying true to Lineage’s roots.
That same creative spirit drives Sous Chef Ryan Cruz, who brings his own sensibilities to the kitchen. With Filipino, Japanese and Guamanian roots and a California upbringing, he often suggests bold flavors or unexpected textures. “Ryan will throw out ideas, and it pushes me to think differently,” Eng said. “He reminds me to stay playful.”
Cruz described it as balance. “Some ingredients come with an opinion,” he said. “One strong voice, one gentler one – they meet in the middle, and that’s where harmony happens.” His approach is to learn how a culture has used an ingredient historically, then adapt with respect. That partnership –Eng’s refinement paired with Cruz’s spark –keeps the menu evolving.
Guests see results every night. The wildly popular Korean Fried Chicken is crisp and shareable. The shrimp and scallop croquettes feature a house-made chili spice and miso remoulade – a joint creation by Eng and Cruz. An Upcountry Farm Salad highlights produce from Lapaʻau Farms, while desserts such as pandan bread pudding, toasted coconut panna cotta and miso ice cream close the meal with creativity and restraint.
The beverage list mirrors that playfulness with calamansi spritzes, sake pairings and craft cocktails designed to echo the multicultural menu. The energy flows from the open kitchen, every eye drawn to the pass, where dishes are composed with the same sense of artistry Eng learned in art school.
Seven years in, Lineage has found its stride. Signature dishes anchor the menu while rotating specials keep creativity alive. Rooted in Maui’s farms yet shaped by global influences, Eng and his team know what great restaurants everywhere understand: food, at its best, isn’t just what’s on the plate. It’s about feeding people well, bringing them together and leaving them nourished – body, memory and soul.
Peanut Noodles with Shredded Chicken
A bold noodle dish built on a Thai curry-peanut sauce, finished with shredded chicken, vegetables and a drizzle of chili crunch.
24 oz fresh ramen (Sun Noodle brand) or yakisoba noodles (two 12 oz packs)
Salt and pepper
1 ½ Tbsp vegetable oil
Garnish with chili crunch, lime wedges
In a 3-4 quart pot, cook the onion and ginger with vegetable oil over medium heat until softened. Add the curry paste and cook 5-6 minutes until fragrant, stirring to prevent burning. Add the coconut milk, soy milk, mushroom seasoning, sugar, peanut butter, water and salt. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat and cook 8-9 minutes until onions are soft. Blend until smooth. Heat a sauté pan until very hot, add oil and stir-fry the onions 15-20 seconds, then add bell pepper and chicken for another 20 seconds. Add spinach, remove from heat and let residual heat wilt the leaves. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook noodles in simmering water 1 minute, drain and toss with 6 oz of sauce. Plate noodles, top with stir-fried vegetables and chicken, and garnish with lime and chili crunch.
Serves: 4-6
Kimchee Bacon Clam Dip
This is a fun take on a classic Americanastyle clam dip, but with Lineage’s twist of sautéed kimchee and bacon. A sprinkling of Hondashi powder deepens the umami, and it’s finished with togarashi spice for a little kick. Serve with wonton chips, crackers or potato chips.
1 can minced clams (Snow’s brand), drained, reserve the liquid
1 ½ Tbsp reserved clam liquid
1 Tbsp distilled white vinegar
½ Tbsp Hondashi powder
1 tsp cracked black pepper
½ Tbsp chopped chives
Togarashi spice, for garnish
Cook the bacon in a nonstick pan over medium-low heat until browned and crispy. Strain, reserving the fat, and let cool. In the same pan, add kimchee with 1 Tbsp reserved bacon fat and the sesame oil. Cook on medium heat, stirring, until the kimchee has softened and its liquid evaporated. Let cool, then chop finely.
In a mixing bowl, combine the cream cheese, sour cream, mayonnaise, clams, reserved clam liquid, vinegar, Hondashi, pepper, bacon, chives and chopped kimchee. Mix by hand until homogenous or use a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Chill, then garnish with togarashi spice. Serve with wonton chips, potato chips or crudité.
Serves: 6-8
Grandma’s Spiced Braised Brisket
Inspired by the stews Chef Eng’s grandmother made, this Chinese-style braise layers spices, hoisin and vinegar into a rich, aromatic dish finished with crispy onions.
5 -6 lb beef brisket
3 cinnamon sticks
3 bay leaves
1½ Tbsp whole white peppercorns
12 star anise
4 pieces dried tangerine peel
½ cup hoisin sauce
1 cup Shaoxing rice wine
¼ cup Chinese black vinegar (Zhenjiang or Chinkiang)
⅓ cup Lee Kum Kee premium soy sauce
3 stalks green onions
Water or chicken stock to cover
4
½ Tbsp sugar
⅓ cup tomato paste
16 garlic cloves
4 inch piece ginger, unpeeled, split lengthwise
To finish Butter
Crispy onion strings
In a Dutch oven, combine all ingredients with enough water or stock to cover the brisket. Braise at 325° for 4-5 hours, until tender. Remove brisket, let cool, then slice into ¼-inch slices. Strain and discard solids from braising liquid, reduce the liquid over medium-low heat until thickened and whisk in a pat of butter.
Arrange brisket slices on a platter, spoon reduced sauce over, and garnish with crispy onion strings. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.
Serves: 8-10
B = Breakfast BR = Brunch L = Lunch H = Happy Hour D = Dinner N = Dinner past 9 p.m.
R = Reservation recommended $ = Average entrée under $15 $$ = Under $25 $$$ = Under $40 $$$$ = $40+ = 2025 ‘Aipono Award winner = Live music! Check venue website for information. Phone numbers are area code 808.
WEST SIDE
A‘A ROOTS Nāpili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Ste. 103, Nāpili, 298-2499 Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. Vegan. B, L, $
ALALOA LOUNGE The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Farm-to-table cocktails, mocktails and savory bites like Spanish octopus, wagyu smash burger and tuna carpaccio, with butter mochi for dessert. International/Lounge. D, $$$
ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lāhainā, 6613322 This casual oceanfront restaurant serves innovative plate lunches and a variety of island favorites in a lively setting. The signature aloha mixed plate comes with shoyu chicken, thinly sliced teriyaki rib eye and fresh fish, offering a true taste of Hawai‘i. Mixed Plate. L, $$
AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259 Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with poke. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$-$$$
BAD ASS COFFEE 3636 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Lāhainā, 738-8223 Hawaiian coffee blends, breakfast sandwiches and stuffed muffins are located just across the way from Honokowai Beach Park. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
BANYAN TREE KAPALUA The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., 665-7089 Start with a seafood tower for two. Then try the banyan tree seafood curry or wild caught New Zealand king salmon. End with a warm island-inspired malasada trio. Great cocktails, too! Italian/Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$
BIG WAVE SHAVE ICE The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 225-6770 Nāpili’s only shave ice stand, just steps from the bay. Choose from natural flavors like banana, tiger’s blood, passion fruit, root beer and more, sno cap and ice cream, as well as Valley Isle kombucha on tap. Treats. $
BURGER SHACK The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 669-6200 Al fresco beachside joint serving burgers, milkshakes, cocktails and beer. Try the Molokai Runner burger with fresh fish, citrus caper tartar sauce and Hua Momona farm greens. American, L, $$-$$$
CAFE JAI Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., H-13, Kā‘anapali, 281-0901 Local spot serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, including Maui Wowie fried chicken, grilled teriyaki salmon and huli huli chicken on a seasonal, rotating menu. Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, D, $$
CANE & CANOE Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6681 Try the avocado toast and mimosas for breakfast and herb compressed lamb and ragout for dinner. Lunch at the Hana Hou Bar serves chicken katsu sandwiches, or enjoy a three-course tasting menu from Chef Purpura. Pacific Rim. B, D, $$$-$$$$
CAPTAIN JACK'S ISLAND GRILL Sands of Kahana Resort, 4299 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 667-0988 Revived at Sands of Kahana after losing its Lāhainā home in 2023, this family-run grill serves favorites like a vegan taro burger, mac-nut-crusted fish and blackened ahi. Jack’s Mai Tai anchors daily happy hour specials in a breezy, communityminded setting. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali All juices, smoothies, salads, soups and açai bowls are made with fresh ingredients from dozens of local farms on Maui. Daily specials. American. B, L, $
CLIFF DIVE GRILL Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Order Hawaiianstyle edamame, a juicy burger or fish tacos to accompany your poolside mai tai or lager. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$
COCO DECK 1312 Front St., Lāhainā 451-2778 Savor creative dishes by Chef Alvin Savella while taking in the ambience of Front Street. Try the crispy poke donut! Mexican, Seafood. H, D, $$
CRUIZIN' CAFE 3481 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Honokōwai, 446-3663 Cruise on in for refreshing drinks, tasty sandwiches, pastries and shave ice. Talk story around the surfboard table and enjoy the local vibe. Coffee Shop. B, L, $-$$
DOLLIE’S PUB & CAFE 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Kahana, 669-0266 Dollie’s has been the local hangout since 1983. Their pizzas are hand-pressed and stone-cooked. Try the Maui Wowee with ham, pineapple and fresh macadamia nuts. American/Bar. L, D, $$-$$$
DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC LŪ‘AU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727 Enjoy a traditional imu ceremony and Hawaiian cuisine, plus the dances and music of Polynesia. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
DUKE’S BEACH HOUSEHonua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-2900 Imagine old Hawai‘i while dining on crab-and-macadamia-nut wontons or filet mignon at this open-air beach house. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$
THE GAZEBO Nāpili Shores, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Nāpili, 669-5621 Have breakfast for lunch, or lunch for breakfast! Fluffy pancakes, omelets, plate lunches with Cajunspiced chicken or kālua pork, salads and seven burgers to choose from. Ocean views are free! International. B, BR, L, $
HONOLUA STORE 502 Office Rd., Kapalua, 6659105 Market in the Kapalua Resort with extensive selection of grab-and-go items like salads, sandwiches and sushi. Made-to-order pizzas, burgers, hot sandwiches and breakfast items are also available. Deli, B, L, $-$$
HONU OCEANSIDE 1295 Front St., Lāhainā 6679390 Treat yourself to masterful culinary creations and stunning views as you dine on fresh fish oceanside. Try specialty cocktails like Charanda Daiquiri or Shark's Tooth. Pacific Rim, B, L, $-$$
HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636 Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar, and enjoy poke tacos, mai tais, original hula pie and live music. Don't miss the nightly hula show after dinner. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. BR, L, D, $$-$$$
INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370 Inu means “drink” in Hawaiian, and this poolside bar serves island-inspired cocktails, local beer and wine. Sip and snack on pūpū, burgers, wraps and salads. Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, H, D, $-$$
ISLAND CREAM COMPANY Lāhainā Gateway, 305 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 298-0916 Make your own Glacier Ice snow cone, or choose from 36 delicious flavors of ice cream. Can’t decide? Take home a few pints. Treats. $
ISLAND PRESS COFFEE 2580 Kekaa Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2003 Homey coffee shop serving hard-to-find Maui grown coffee beans. Start your day with a cup of Maui Red Catuai or a Hawaiian Honey Latte. Coffee Shop. B, $
ISLAND VINTAGE COFFEE Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., L5, Kā‘anapali, 868-4081 Serving up killer gourmet Kona coffee and acai bowls piled high with tropical goodness. Get your island vibes and caffeine fix at this popular spot. Cafe/Local. B, BR, L, $$
JAPENGO Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4909 Asian fusion cuisine and sushi, featuring fresh seafood, local ingredients and Pacific Rim flavors, all with stunning oceanfront views. Pacific Rim. D $$$-$$$$
JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590 Start your day with delicious ube french toast or a kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village, and end with dinner at the Nāpili venue. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $-$$
KIHEI CAFFE Lāhainā Gateway Plaza, 305 Kiawe St., Lāhainā, 879-2230 See South Shore listing.
KITCHEN 5315 RESTAURANT & TIKI BAR Nāpili Shores Maui by Outrigger, 5315 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #153, Nāpili, 579-8877 Immerse yourself in a tropical paradise with fun tiki cocktails, vibrant island-inspired décor and a menu brimming with delicious local-style dishes, perfect for a laid-back island experience. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D, $$
LAHAINA NOON Royal Lāhainā Resort & Bungalows, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119 Breakfast offerings include loco moco or coconut french toast, or go for the buffet to try a bite of each. For dinner, feast on a 32 oz filet mignon or seared ahi tuna with wasabi mash, bok choy and a misoginger sauce. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$-$$$$
LEILANI’S ON THE BEACHWhalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495 Leilani's rocks island flavors with mac nut hummus, and ‘ahi poke with taro chips. Entrees include filet mignon with green onion gremolata or Parmesan-crusted fresh catch. Don’t forget the Hula Pie! Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$-$$$$
LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600 Try the house-made sandwiches on Maui Bread Company bread with pineapple coleslaw. The mac-nut chocolate cream pie and fresh-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance! American. B, L, D, $
LONGHI’S Marriott’s Maui Ocean Club, 100 Nohea Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-2288. Try a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. BR (Fri-Sun), D, $$
MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-9394 Māla serves island-inspired plates and cocktails with oceanfront seating. Start with an oyster shooter or ‘ahi bruschetta, then try seared scallops with truffle pesto, huli huli chicken or the daily catch with kabocha purée. Mediterranean. BR, H, D, N, $-$$$
MAUI NUI LŪ‘AU AT BLACK ROCKSheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 6610031 Experience the history and culture of the Valley Isle through Polynesian song and dance. Lei greeting, all-youcan-eat Hawaiian buffet and open bar included. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400 Land meets sea at this resort fine dining experience. Savor ancient Hawaiian flavors with a modern flair, such as the seared ahi, pōlehu ribeye and shrimp pasta. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, D, $$$-$$$$
MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400 Peter Merriman casts his spell on locally-sourced seafood, beef and produce to create delectable fare. Pacific Rim. BR (Sun), L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010 See South Shore listing.
MOKU ROOTS Moku Roots Waipoli Rd., Kula The zero waste and plant-based farm store lives in Kula, where customers can shop everything from local produce to cotton candy berry cheesecake. 2025 ‘Aipono Gold winner for Best Farm-to-Table Cuisine. International. BR, L, D, $$-$$$
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763 See South Shore listing.
Enjoy all-you-can-eat Hawaiian fares like kālua pork, Moloka‘i sweet potato and fresh fish. Menu also includes keiki friendly choices like chicken nuggets and baked mac and cheese. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, $$$$
NAPILI COFFEE STORE 5095 Napilihau St. 108B, Nāpili, 669-4170 Start your day with a fruit smoothie and a savory sandwich, or pop-in for a coffee and baked treat. Try the Brown Cow with cold brew and chocolate milk and take home fresh-baked goods, yogurt-granola parfaits, chia pudding and to-go items. Coffee Shop. $
OLD LĀHAINĀ LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lāhainā, 6670700 This oceanfront venue has won the Gold ‘Aipono Award for Best Lū‘au on Maui 21 times – come see why! Begin with kalo (taro) hummus, then enjoy traditional Hawaiian dishes like lomilomi salmon or imu-roasted pork. Save room for the mangococonut chocolate bombe! Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
PAILOLO BAR AND GRILLThe Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200
Kick back with ocean views and cold drinks like the Lava Flow, rum complemented with strawberry, coconut and pineapple. Dig into coconut shrimp and food truck nachos while catching a game. American. L, H, D, $$
PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL
3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929 Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/ Mediterranean. L, D, $-$$
POUR HOUSE700 Office Rd., Kapalua, 214-5296
Local ingredients elevate classic southern Italian dishes. Choose from a la carte options or indulgent tasting menus paired with global wines in an upscale setting. Italian. D, R, $$$-$$$$
ROY’S 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 669-6999
Line up for the half-pound Maui Cattle Co. burger on a brioche bun for lunch. For dinner, try the blackened ‘ahi or the honeymustard-glazed beef short ribs. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$$
SALE PEPE PIZZERIA E CUCINA 157 Kupuohi St., Ste. J1, Lāhainā, 667-7667 Benvenuto to the renewal of Sale Pepe, the first destroyed restaurant in Lāhainā town to reopen since the fire. This spot serves up homemade pastas and artisanal pizzas crafted by Maui’s only certified pizzaiolo. Pizza/Italian. D, R, $$-$$$
SERGIO’S CANTINA 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #502 and #503, Lāhainā, 727-2222 Come hungry – authentic Mexican is served in large portions, like jumbo garlic shrimp or Sergio’s famous chile relleno. 2025 ‘Aipono Silver winner for Best Mexican Cuisine. Mexican. L, H, D, N, $$
TALES OF KAPA MOE LŪ‘AU The Ritz Carlton Maui Kapalua, 1 Ritz Carlton Drive, Lāhainā, 665-7089 This delight for all senses immerses more than the taste buds with a dinner show, beautiful lūʻau and fire knife dance at the Aloha Garden Pavilion. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
THE SANDBAR Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031 Sample craft cocktails and island bites while enjoying an ocean view on the lanai at Kā‘anapali's only lobby bar. Hawaiian/Bar. B, D, $$
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR
600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286 Small and actionpacked, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Try a Kenny G roll with a sip of sake. Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, R, $$$
THE SEA HOUSE RESTAURANT Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Honoapi‘ilani Rd., Nāpili, 6691500 Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp as the sun sinks into Nāpili Bay. On Wednesdays, stay for Grammy Award-winner George Kahumoku Jr.’s Slack-Key Show. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $$$
Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce will rock your evening. Sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak or mahimahi in lemon-caper butter. Pair with a craft cocktail or one of many choices of specialty wines. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N, $$-$$$$
AKAMAI COFFEE CO. 1325 S. Kīhei Rd., #100, Kīhei, 868-3251 and 116 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 868-0003 Offering 100 percent Maui-grown coffee roasted locally for the highest-quality flavor. Espresso, French press and nitro brews available. Coffee Shop. $
ALOHA PRIME EATERY South Maui Gardens, 30 Alahele Pl., Kīhei, 856-6121 The azure-blue food truck serves up fine dining with local flair. Must-order items include the potato crusted mahi, Hawaiian poke and Hoisin BBQ chicken. Food Truck/American/Local. L, D, $$
AURUM MAUI The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. Wailea, 793-0054 Chef Taylor Ponte uses fresh produce and sustainable seafood to lead the menu. Pair an island okonomiyaki with pan seared kampachi. For a sweet finish, the coconut milk panna cotta.. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, R, $$-$$$
AMA BAR & GRILL Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Swim-up bar located at the Fairmont Kea Lani resort offering refreshments, lunch and ocean views. Hawaiian/Bar. B, L, D, $$
AMIGO’S 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 661-0210 Real Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas and their famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D $
THE BIRDCAGE Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-8581 Elegant, high-ceilinged bar in Hotel Wailea. Japanese-inspired tapas, small plates, wine and an extensive list of craft cocktails. Japanese/Lounge. D, N, $$$
FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY South Maui Center, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Bagels and lox, fresh croissants, caprese salad with local tomatoes, thincrust and gluten-free pizza and spaghetti with pork sausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. HR, D, $-$$
FAT DADDY’S SMOKEHOUSE 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-8711 Pulled pork, beef brisket and pork ribs smoked 15 hours over kiawe wood. Enjoy sides: cornbread, chili-garlic beans and two cabbage slaws. American. D, $-$$
FEAST AT MŌKAPU LŪ‘AU Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Upscale beachside lū‘au with an emphasis on Polynesian voyaging history. Known for its cocktails and artful, traditional Hawaiian plates served family-style. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
FERRARO’S RESTAURANT & BAR Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Enjoy a veggie quesadilla or grilled tenderloin sandwich served poolside. For dinner, ahi rigatoni. Italian. L, H, D, $$$$
FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675 Chef/ owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel or ginger tofu. Vegan, gluten-free, dairy-free options. International. L, D, $
FRED'S MEXICAN CAFE 2511 S. Kīhei Rd., #201, Wailea, 891-8600 Fresh, flavorful Mexican favorites with a California twist at Maui’s favorite local chain. Killer margaritas and all-day drinks in a vibrant, festive atmosphere. Mexican. B, L, H, D, $$
STAR NOODLE 1287 Front St., Lāhainā, 667-5400
Big-city style and local flavors unite. Enjoy a Golden Star sparkling jasmine tea as you drink in the view of Lāna‘i across the channel. The ramen broth is extra smoky, the Singapore noodles bright and flavorful. Asian. L, D, $$
SUNSET LŪ‘AU AT KAPALUA BAYMontage at Kapalua Bay 1 Bay Dr., Kapalua, 662-6627 This twice-weekly lū‘au caps at just 40 guests for an intimate experience. Dig into plates of ʻulu mac salad, grilled ribeye with aliʻi mushrooms and kanpanchi poke. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au, D, R, $$$$
BLACK ROCK PIZZA 1770 S. Kīhei Rd., #1, Kīhei, 7930076 Black Rock takes “Hawaiian pizza” to the next level with wild flavor combos like the Moa Polu pizza topped with spinach, apple, chicken, bacon, blue cheese and balsamic drizzle. Pizza/Italian. L, D, $$
BLING BING South Maui Gardens, 30 Alahele Pl., Kīhei, 419-1256 Maui's only Chinese shave ice with condensed milk topped with fresh fruit, boba and jellies. Treats. $
GATHER ON MAUI 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea, 698-0555 Try a mana bowl with citrus vinaigrette or the scallop and crab orzo with mac nut pesto. Panoramic views. Pacific Rim. H, L, D, $$$
GRAND LŪ‘AU 3850 WAILEA ALANUI DR., WAILEA, 875-1234 Feast on the sights, sounds and flavors of an authentic lūʻau. Pair ‘ulu mac salad with kālua pig and finish with haupia, traditional coconut Hawaiian pudding. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
TAVERNA 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426
House-made pasta, agrodolce-style fish of the day and Italian desserts stand up to the grand finale: espresso with grappa. Great wine, cocktails and craft beer. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, $$-$$$
TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS 335 Keawe St., Lāhainā, 661-9111 The staff hand-pat the burgers and charbroil them to order. Crowd favorite is the Kaneohe Burger with garlic, avocado, cheddar cheese and crispy bacon. Don’t miss the Kona Coffee hand scooped shake for dessert. American. L, D, $
ULU KITCHEN The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-0081 A chef-driven restaurant led by award winning Chef Peter Merriman, serving up local dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Hawaiian. B, L, D, $$-$$$$
‘ŪMALUHyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4902 Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lāhainā’s rowdy whaling past. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, $$$
WAILELE POLYNESIAN LŪ‘AU Westin Maui Resort & Spa, 2365 Kā‘anapali Parkway, Lāhainā, 661-2992 Sunset lū‘au featuring Polynesian entertainment and fire dancers. Menu runs the gamut of traditional Hawaiian and contemporary island fares. Lū‘au, D, $$$$
SOUTH SHORE
1054 TOGOSHI SUSHI South Maui Center, 95 E. Lipoa St., Ste. A-104, Kīhei, 868-0307 Husband-and-wife gem offers fresh, traditional seafood and sushi served with omotenashi spirit from Chef Manabu.. Japanese. D, R, $$-$$$
BOTERO LOUNGE Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Named for the surrounding Fernando Botero sculptures, this lounge offers nightly entertainment. On Thirsty Thursdays, a three-cocktail tasting is just $20. Lounge. L, D, H, N, $
CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368 Choose from macadamia nut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. See Central listing. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $$
COCONUT’S FISH CAFE Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 and 2463 S. Kīhei Rd. Kīhei, 875-4949 Dive into fresh fish tacos or grilled fish burger. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D, $$
COOL CAT CAFE 1819 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 667-0908 Burgers, chicken, fresh fish, tacos and more in a ’50s diner atmosphere. Kid-friendly. American. L, D, $
DA KITCHEN 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. E, Kīhei, 446-3486 Local food and good vibes meet! Spam musubi, chicken katsu, kalbi ribs, locomoco and da Hawaiian plate. Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $-$$
DIAMONDS BAR & GRILL 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 8749299 Casual watering hole with live music, billiards, TVs and darts. Daily food and drink specials, outdoor seating and latenight offerings. American/Bar. B. L. D. $$
DUO STEAK AND SEAFOOD Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Breakfast buffet or à la carte? Did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim/ Steak. B, D, $-$$$
EARTH ALOHA EATS 1881 S Kīhei Rd. 111, Kīhei, 867-1171 Plant-based family favorites like tacos, burgers, wraps, plates and bowls. Vegan. L, D, $
HAVENS HARBORSIDE Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd. 2M, Mā'alaea, 868-0555 Known for smashburgers, garlic noodles, poke tacos and lobster ramen, Havens Harborside pairs bold flavors with islandinspired cocktails. In 2025 it won ʻAipono Awards for Best New Restaurant and Best Burger, while chef Zach Sato was named Chef of the Year. A breezy harborfront setting makes it a favorite for lunch, dinner or sunset drinks. L, D, $-$$
HOME MAID CAFE 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei 874-6035 Family-owned hole-in-the-wall known for its made-to-order malasadas. Classic breakfast plates, saimin and sandwiches. American/Local. B. L. $
HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655 Chef Roy Yamaguchi amazes with Hawaiian sweetbread French toast for breakfast, calamari and a Magnum P.I. cocktail at happy hour, and Roy’s classic blackened island ‘ahi for dinner. Hawai‘i Regional. B, H, D, $-$$$
HUMUHUMUNUKUNUKUĀPUA‘A Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Idyllic restaurant constructed from Big Island 'ōhi'a wood overlooking Wailea Beach. Menu features a balance of land and ocean sourced Hawaiian fares like Huli Huli chicken and miso butterfish. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$$
ISANA Maui Beach Vacation Club, 515 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5700 Dine on bold sushi made from fresh-caught local fish while enjoying friendly service and an ocean view. Japanese. D, N, $$
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055 Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, $
IZAKAYA GENBE Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd. #120, Kīhei, 214-5457 A cozy ambiance marries traditional Japanese cooking in a comfortable, tavern-style setting. Japanese. L, H, D, $$
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 A Wagyu hangar steak on a green papaya salad, charred octopus with local goat cheese, Kona abalone risotto and a modern take on chicken and waffles. Curated wine list and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D, $$$$
KAI BAR AC Hotel by Marriott Maui Wailea, 88 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 856-0341 Unwind by the lava stone firepit with a kiwi yuzu gin and tonic. Pair it with a diverse palate of noodle stir fry, shoyu poke bowl or passion mango cheesecake. Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, H, D, $$
KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888 Eye-catching art and Indian relics accent a menu highlighting exotic spices and dishes, all lovingly created from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L, D, $-$$
KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210 Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock” – three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock to sear them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D, R, $$$
KOHOLĀ BREWERY 112 Wailea Ike Dr, Wailea, 8680010 Talk story while enjoying a signature IPA and local-style bar food. Brewery. L, D, N, $$
KOISO SUSHI BAR 2395 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 8758258 This hidden gem has limited seating, but Chef Hirosan’s craft is apparent in every fresh dish like the spicy tuna, rainbow and salmon avocado rolls. Japanese/Sushi. D, $$$
KOMO Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 This upscale establishment is best known for high-quality sushi and mystery box, a surprise selection of rare seafood from Tokyo’s renowned Uogashi Market. Sushi/Japanese. D, $$$$
KIHEI CAFFE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230 Hungry at 5 a.m.? Head to this local hangout for banana-mac-nut pancakes and a cuppa joe. Cafe. B, L, $-$$
KRAKEN COFFEE MAUI 1975 S Market Pl., Kīhei and 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei 495-1885, 879-2230 See Central listing
LE BAZAAR MAUI Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S Kīhei Rd. #107, Kīhei, 268-0545 Start your dining experience by cleansing your hands with orange blossom water, then immerse yourself in the sights, sounds and flavors of the Middle East through a six-course dinner, ending the night with Moroccan mint tea. Moroccan. D, $$$$
LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui Resort, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234 Cocktails created with local seasonal ingredients, such as lychee, liliko‘i (passion fruit) and Hawaiian navel oranges, pair perfectly with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Asian Fusion/Lounge. H, $
LINEAGE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800 If Cantonese lobster noodles and leeks, ginger and XO butter, crispy Korean chicken with pickles made in house and Wagyu Kalbi short ribs with garlic rice get your juices flowing, head to Wailea. Eat. Drink. Talk story. Pacific Rim. D, $-$$
LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Impeccable service, a locally sourced menu and swanky cocktails. Stay refreshed with the island watermelon salad to pair with Kona lobster or 17 pieces of the chef’s special selection of maki rolls, sashimi and nigiri. Pacific Rim/Lounge. H, D, N, $$$$
MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499 Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into authentic chicken scaloppine with a specialty cocktail or beer. Open Late. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N, $$
MATTEO’S OSTERIA Wailea Town Center, 161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466 Matteo’s meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Co. beef and Italian sausage, or try ‘ahi crusted with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D, $$-$$$
MAUI BREAD CO. Dolphin Plaza, 2395 S. Kīhei Rd., #117, Kīhei, 757-8740 Artisanal fusion of Hawaiian and German flavors, such as handmade ube loaves, P.O.G. bread, German spelt bread and pretzel croissants. A must-visit bakery in Kīhei! Hawai‘i Regional/Bakery. B, BR, $
MAUI BREWING CO. 605 Līpoa Pkwy., Kīhei, 201-2337 This off-the-grid brewery offers 36 craft and specialty beers, as well as burgers, pizzas, fish tacos and salads. Brewery/Pacific Rim/American. L, H, D, N, $-$$
MAUI LOBSTER KING 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 573-8818 This casual eatery offers bold Cajun seafood boils and crispy salt and pepper lobster, along with classic plate lunch options. Seafood. L, D, $$-$$$
MAUI PIE Azeka Shopping Center, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., #101, Kīhei, 298-0473 A slice of heaven awaits. Try the tropical liliko‘i or chocolate haupia pudding cream pies. For savory cravings, the chicken pot pie is a must. Bakery. B, L, D, $
MAUI THAI BISTRO Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-5605 Thai food cooked by Thai chefs. Kaffirscented tom yum fried rice, green mango salad with crispy fried-fish filets and house curries. Beer and wine bar. Thai. L, D, $-$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476 Sushi served on-site, togo or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! See also West Side listing. Japanese. L, H, D, $$
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Wailea Gateway Center, 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322 Lunch at this Peter Merriman chain includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner, Big Island rib-eye with chimichurri sauce and banana cream pie. See also West Side listing. Hawai‘i Regional/American. L, H, D, N, $$
MOOSE MCGILLYCUDDY'S 2511 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8600 Serving up pub classics, happy hour specials and oceanfront views from the lanai. Family-friendly with free trivia on Wednesdays and bingo every Monday night. American. B, L, H, D, $$
MORIMOTO MAUI 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 2434766 Headed by celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto, this sleek restaurant in the Andaz Maui Resort fuses Japanese and Western fares. Enjoy wagyu steaks, sushi and sashimi paired with premium, aged or nigori sake. Japanese/American. L, D, $$-$$$
MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131 Guinness poured properly at Maui’s only Irishowned pub. Enjoy fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Great music and sports-bar action, too. Sláinte! Irish/Bar. L, H, D, $-$$$
NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650 Generous portions made with local ingredients served with aloha. Try the ahi club fresh yellow fin tuna, with applewood smoked bacon and caramelized Maui onions on sourdough. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D, $-$$
NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224 Enjoy classic seafood dishes beneath the stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R, $$$$
NOBU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 The first Nobu, an esteemed restaurant known for Japanese and Peruvian fusion, has arrived at the Grand Wailea. Signature dishes include black cod, yellowtail jalapeño and rock shrimp tempura. Japanese. D, R, $$$$
NUTCHAREE’S AUTHENTIC THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840 Start with the ‘ahi laab tartare salad or crispy fish and mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D, $-$$
OAO – SUSHI BAR & GRILL Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Gateway Pl., Kīhei, 666-8139 Sushi bar and grill offering fresh sushi, steak and cocktails. Try the Firecracker roll with lobster, avocado, kimchi ahi poke, cucumber, jalapeño, onions and unagi sauce. Pacific Rim. L, D, N, $$$
OLIVINE Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234 Oceanfront dining specializing in coastal Italian cuisine, featuring handmade pastas and seasonal dishes that blend local Hawaiian ingredients with authentic Italian flavors. Italian. L, D, $$$
PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888 See North Shore listing.
PANIOLO'S STEAK & SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Ste. #201, Kīhei, 868-0086 Once the Lāhainā Smokehouse, Paniolos brings its hearty menu to South Maui with slow-roasted prime rib, bone-in ribeye, buttered steak, grilled chicken and ribs. Wine dinners and live music complete the experience.. Steakhouse/Seafood. L, H, D, R, $$$
PEGGY SUE’S 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 214-6786 Bright 1950s style diner with jukebox serving burgers, creative hot dogs and old-fashioned milkshakes with over 20 different flavors. American. L. D. $$
PILINA Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-4100 Sip on oceanfront views and inventive libations like the ‘Āina, a rum cocktail infused with vanilla and Kona coffee. Includes sushi, raw dishes and a hot rock experience. Hawai‘i Regional/Bar. L, D, $$-$$$
THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 727-2038 Order mac ‘n’ cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. Score breakfast during football season, too! American/Bar. L, H, D, N, $-$$
PITA PARADISE Wailea Gateway Center, 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177 Start with spinach tiropitas with caramelized onions, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough. Finish with baklava ice-cream cake. Mediterranean. L, H, D, $-$$$
PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888 Classic Kīhei pizza joint known for thick-crust pies, salads and wings, and winner of the 2025 ʻAipono Silver for Best Pizza. Open for dine-in, takeaway and daily happy hour.. Pizza. L, D, $$
POINT BREAK PIZZA & PANINI Maui Harbor Shops, 300 Mā'alaea Rd., Mā'alaea, 868-0014 Homemade pizza dough and fresh-baked focaccia bread pack each artisan pizza and panini full of flavor. Winner of the 2025 ʻAipono Gold for Best Pizza.. Pizza. L, D, $$
THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA Hotel Wailea, 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224 Produce from the hotel’s gardens, fish plucked from the sea and a gorgeous outdoor setting. European-inspired. B, D, R, $$-$$$$
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357 Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like chicken mole, pozole verde and langostino enchiladas with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D, $-$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880 Known for sizzling steaks served on 500-degree plates, this chain offers filet, ribeye, New York strip, seafood, salads and shareable sides.. American/Steak. H, D, N, R, $$$$
SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068 Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves mahimahi sandwiches, fresh cabbage slaw and half-pound burgers. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D (Sat & Sun), $$-$$$
SOUTH MAUI FISH COMPANY 1794 S. KĪHEI RD., KĪHEI, 419-8980 ll fish is locally sourced. Mouthwatering signature dishes are fish tacos slathered in unagi sauce and a 1/2-pound poke bowl with rice and slaw. Food Truck/ Seafood. L, D, $$
SOUTH SHORE TIKI LOUNGE Kīhei Kalama Village, 1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-6444 Gourmet pizza, burgers, salads and vegetarian items round out the menu at this hip bar. American. L, D, N, $
SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000 Celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck's Hawaiian outpost is a celebration of fresh local ingredients. Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones then explore our ever-evolving menu. Pacific Rim. D, N, R, $$-$$$$
SUGAR BEACH BAKE SHOP 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 757-8285 An ever-changing selection of sweet desserts and breakfast are baked fresh daily with sweet cream butter, lilikoʻi, Dole bananas and pineapples, and Maui Meyer lemon zest. Treats. B, L, $$
SOUTH MAUI FISH COMPANY 1794 S. KĪHEI RD., KĪHEI, 419-8980 Signature dishes feature locally sourced fish, from tacos with unagi sauce to a 1/2-pound poke bowl with rice and slaw. Food Truck/Seafood. L, D, $$
SUNS OUT BUNS OUT 1 Piikea Ave., Kīhei, 865-2867
Fresh, handcrafted bao buns of all different flavors with an island flair. Don't miss the specialty ube bao. Food Truck/ Fusion. L, D, $
TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038 Lunch includes Japanese-style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner fuses Italian and Japanese with pasta, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese/Italian Fusion. L, D, $-$$$
TE AU MOANA LŪ‘AU Wailea Beach Resort, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 877-827-2740 Enjoy a threecourse meal of pork roasted underground in an imu paired with traditional poi, made from cooked corms of kalo (taro). End with guava chiffon cake. Lū‘au. D, R, $$$$
THREE’S BAR & GRILL 1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133 Eggs Benedict six ways, including seared ahi, smoked salmon and prime rib. For lunch, Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen. For dinner, truffle-yaki marinated flatiron steak. Pacific Rim/Southwestern. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
TIKEHAU LOUNGE Wailea Village, 116 Wailea Ike Dr. #2104, Kīhei, 214-6500 Innovative cocktails and pūpū inspired by Polynesian places and flavors. Pacific Rim. H, D, N, $$
TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983 Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N, $-$$
THE TREEHOUSE AT HOTEL WAILEA, 555 Kaukahi, St., Wailea, 874-0500 A unique dining experience tucked in the branches of mango and avocado trees. Seven course private chef dinner with wine pairings for up to six people (seated). Private Dining, D, R, $$$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 877-3700 Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Treats. $
WAIKIKI BREWING COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B25, Wailea, 868-0935 Paddy’s Irish Stout and Waikele Wheat brew temper the heat of the jalapeño queso dip served with a giant pretzel. American. B, L, H, D $$
WOLFGANG'S STEAKHOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr. B22, Wailea, 727-2011 An upscale steakhouse by Wolfgang Zwiener serving USDA Prime Black Angus beef steak, complemented by fine wine and fresh seafood. American. D $$$$
CENTRAL
808 OLD TOWN 2051 Main St., Wailuku 242-1111 Stylish Main Street cafe offering soup, paninis, sandwiches, and salads in a cozy, welcoming space. Open for breakfast and a popular Wailuku lunchtime favorite. American. L, $$
Think Italian
ACEVEDO'S HAWAICANO CAFE 190 Alamaha St. 7A, Kahului, 385-3752 Blending Mexican and Hawaiian heritage with California-style fare and plate lunches. Try the fish ceviche bowl with cabbage, onion, tomato, guacamole and chipotle aioli. Mexican/Mixed Plate. L, D, $-$$
HAVENS CHOW CART 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 868-0555 Sister to Havens Harborside, this gourmet food truck serves the brand’s signature smashburgers and sushi rolls. Executive Chef Zach Sato, Maui’s 2025 ʻAipono Chef of the Year, brings the same quality to a quick, casual setting. Food Truck/American. L, D, $
OGO 331 Ho‘okahi St., Ste. 201, Wailuku, 866-8224 Local Hawaiian bites with an Asian twist. Popular dishes include taro gnocchi, oxtail katsu, green tea soba carbonara and misobroiled fish. Asian Fusion/Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$
BROTH CAFE 340 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-4950
Alive & Well health store's Broth Cafe serves health-focused wraps, bowls, smoothies, bahn mi and salads. Try the green burrito with sweet potato or taro bahn mi and tan tan ramen. International, B, L, $-$$
AMIGO'S Akaku Center, 333 Dairy Rd. 110B, Kahului, 872-9525 Casual spot for Mexican plates and AmericanMexican favorites like quesa-birria, chimichangas and hearty burritos. Mexican. B, L, D, $$
A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560 Squeeze into a booth and order a Vietnamese burrito, clay pot or lemongrass curry. Also popular are the green papaya salad, sizzling fish and garlic noodles.. Vietnamese. L, D, $-$$
BA-LE 1824 Oihana St., Wailuku 249-8833 Vietnamese counter-service eatery with flavor-packed bahn mi, aromatic pho, a wide range of plate lunches and fresh baked bread and croissants. Vietnamese. L, D, $$
KAHULUI ALE HOUSE 355 E. Kamehameha Ave., Kahului, 877-0001 Lively sports bar with 69 HD TVs and five audio zones streaming major events. The menu covers fried appetizers, burgers, hand-tossed pizzas, plate lunches, wraps and a full sushi bar, alongside 36 draft beers and cocktails. American/Hawai‘i Regional. L, D, $$
KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 52 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku, 793-3104 2025 ʻAipono Gold Best Plate Lunch serves Hawaiian comfort food and plate lunches like the Furikake Mochiko Chicken served with rice and macaroni salad. Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $$
KOHO'S GRILL AND BAR Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., #245, Kahului, 877-5588 Start with crab cake benedict for breakfast, mushroom burger for lunch and charbroiled chicken smothered in Koho sauce for dinner. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
THE PARLAY 2086 Main St., Wailuku 214-5161 Enjoy craft cocktails and elevated bar food at this retro-style tavern situated in the heart of Wailuku Town. Try the French Puddin' Toast with banana, caramel and pecan crumble on a flan-soaked croissant. American. L, H, D, $
RAMEN YA Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center, 275 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 873-9688 Explore over a dozen unique ramen options. Opt for the big bowl ramen to savor a variety of flavors in one dish. Japanese. L, D, $$
SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124 This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin, barbecue sticks and local plate lunches. Asian. B, L, $
SHIKEDA BENTO PATISSERIE 2050 Main St., Wailuku 500-2556 Japanese bento and patisserie shop in the Main Street food court. Arrive early for bentos and colorful pastries like azuki cream puffs, matcha berry rolls and ube coconut shortcake. Japanese, B, L, $-$$
BALAI PATA 425 Koloa St. #104, Kahului, 727-2230
Discover the vibrant flavors of the Philippines at Chef Joey Macadangdang’s restaurant. Indulge in specialties like crispy duck pata and balai sigang or classics like lumpia and pork adobo fried rice. Filipino. L, D, $-$$
BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650 Relaxed urban bistro near the airport serving Mediterranean favorites like seafood paella for two, burrata caprese, housemade pastas and fresh-cut fries. Full bar and happy hour. Mediterranean. L, H, D, R, $-$$
BRIGIT & BERNARD’S GARDEN CAFE 335 Hoohana St., Kahului, 877-6000 This garden café serves authentic German-Swiss fare made from scratch, with dishes like Wiener schnitzel, bratwurst platters, beef rouladen with spaetzle and a daily fresh fish. Save room for apple strudel with vanilla sauce. German. L, D, $$
CAFE O’LEI AT THE MILL HOUSE Maui Tropical Plantation, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 500-0553 Fun, expanded menu at the restaurant group’s newest venue. The most beautiful mountain view in the Central Valley! Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, R, $-$$$
DA GRATEFUL DOUGH 553 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 772-2697 Home of Maui’s wild venison pizza, this food truck is known for its flavor combinations like Da Fig-GetAbout-It and Da Upcountry Veggie. Food Truck/Pizza. L, D, $$
DA SHRIMP HALE Maui Mall, 70 E. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului, 868-2361 Gloves and bibs required for Cajun-style feasts of shrimp, clams, crawfish, mussels and crab. Specials include ribeye steak, opakapaka and gumbo. Seafood. L, D, $$
ESTERS FAIR PROSPECT 2050 Main St., Wailuku, 868-0056 Serving classic cocktails, tiki drinks, spirits, rum, mezcal, wine and beer. Local farm-to-table-inspired small bites. Rosé wine and daiquiris during happy hour. Bar. H, N, $
FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St., #330, Kahului, 793-3256 See South Shore listing
FOUR SISTERS BAKERY 1968 E. Vineyard St., Wailuku, 244-9333 At this family-run Wailuku spot, there’s typically a line outside the door for their soft butter rolls, malasadas and other tasty treats. Bakery. B, L, $
FUEGO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 633-4436 Cozy indoor and outdoor seating on the Dunes at Maui Lani Golf Course. Argentinianstyle barbeque, pasta, sandwiches, cocktails and wines. Latin-inspired. B, L, D $$-$$$
GIANOTTO'S PIZZA 2050 Main St., Wailuku 244-8282 Bodega-style eatery with pizzas and homestyle Italian served with aloha. Pizza. L, D, $
KRAKEN COFFEE MAUI 520 Keolani Pl., Kahului, 6337499 and 329 Alamaha St., Kahului 866-9817 Specialty coffees include the Haleakalatte, Kīhei Kicker and Mochawao. Iced drinks are served over coffee ice cubes. Coffee Shop. $
LAS ISLITAS 520 Keolani Pl., Kahului, 359-1631 Island tacos, burritos and quesadillas filled with fresh ingredients, plus specialties like birria quesatacos and seafood plates. Food Truck/Mexican. L, D, $$
LAS PIÑATAS OF MAUI 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 8778707 Try one of the signature kitchen sink burritos stuffed with your meat of choice, guacamole, beans, rice and more. Mexican. B, L, H, D, $-$$
MARCO’S GRILL AND DELI 444 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-4466 Family friendly Italian-American diner with homestyle eats like meatball subs, vodka rigatoni and shrimp scampi. Italian, B, L, D, $$-$$$
MAUI COOKIE LAB Kahului Office Center, 140 Ho‘ohana St., Ste. 101, Kahului, 300-0022 Handcrafted with aloha, serving classic cookies with a tropical twist like liliko‘i oatmeal and pineapple macadamia nut. Treats. $
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877) Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches, wraps, and bagels and lox made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the rest. “Happy Cappy Hour” 2-6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H, $
MAUI FRESH STREATERY MauiFreshStreatery .com ʻAipono Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami dishes up imaginative ethnic dishes and a modern take on local fare. Follow his Facebook for locations. Food Truck/Hawaiian/Fusion. L, $
MIKO’S CUISINE 1764 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 868-2914
Eatery serving Chinese, Korean and Japanese dishes including sushi, bibimbap, misoyaki butterfish and udon. Known for its welcoming vibe and birthday serenades. Asian. L, D, $$
MIYAKO SUSHI 1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-0085 Sequestered Okazuya-style sushi joint also specializing in antiques, local snacks and nostalgic Japanese groceries. Carryout only. Japanese. B, L, $
MOMONA BAKERY AND COFFEE SHOP 7 E Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 214-5389 Chic, spacious coffee shop serving fresh pastries like cinnamon rolls and Argentine-style croissants. Winner of the 2025 ʻAipono Gold for Best Bakery. Enjoy a sweet or savory treat in the old bank vault – a remnant of the shop’s previous identity. Bakery/Coffee Shop. B, L, $
MY THAI MAUI 230 Hāna Hwy, Kahului 877-8887
Winner of 2025 ʻAipono Restaurant of the Year. Serves authentic Thai plates like tom kha, larb and pad woon sen. Favorites like curry, pad thai and bao are also on offer. Don't miss the mango sticky rice for dessert. Thai, L, D, $$
SIXTYTWO MARCKET 62 N Market St., 793-2277
Part market, part brunch joint with artfully plated eggs benedict, frittatas and omelettes. Lunch time offerings include soup, sandwiches and salads. American. B, L, $$
STILLWELL'S BAKERY 1740 W Ka‘ahumanu Ave, Wailuku, 243-2243 Serving up homemade delights from flaky pastries to the famous cream horns. Hearty sandwiches, Chinese chicken salad and homemade dressings like raspberry vinaigrette are fan favorites. Bakery. B, L, D, $-$$
THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369 Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai. Food Truck/Thai. L, D, $
TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Dairy Center, 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026 Taste authentic Thai at family-owned Tiki Tiki. Fresh herbs from their own garden bring traditional flavors to life. Favorites include drunken noodles, yellow curry and papaya salad. Thai. L, D, $$
TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753
Sheldon Simeon of Bravo’s Top Chef builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with mochiko chicken or garlic shrimp. Try the double-fried-chicken sandwich on a brioche bun with house-made pickles. Pacific Rim. L, $
TJ’S WAREHOUSE 875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311
Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba and daily hot specials like potato croquettes, nishime and poke. Asian. B, L, $
TASTY CRUST 1770 Mill St., Wailuku, 244-0845 A Maui mainstay since 1942 serving breakfast classics and islandstyle lunch and dinner. American, Mixed Plate. B, L, D, $
TIFFANY’S 1424 Lower Main St., Wailuku 249-0052
Helmed by Chef Sheldon Simeon, Tiffany’s serves Filipino, Japanese and island-style dishes like garlic noodles, pork belly lechon, kim chee fried rice and Hilo-style sashimi. Pacific Rim. Lunch opens weekend. Asian, Local. L, D, $$
TOKYO TEI 1063 Lower Main St., Wailuku 242-9630
Longstanding Wailuku staple with authentic Japanese fares made from scratch in a family-friendly atmosphere. Japanese. L, D, $$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 50 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku See West Side listing.
UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 500-1802 and 1440 Lower Main St., Wailuku, 633-2502. If a California roll topped with tuna, hamachi, salmon and unagi rocks your world, then chef Jayse Sato’s restaurant is your earthquake! Creative presentations, epic soft-shell crab bao buns. BYOB. Japanese. D, $-$$
WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 26 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259 Espresso, breakfast bagels, fresh salads and specialty sandwiches in a relaxed, eclectic setting with local art displays. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
UPCOUNTRY
ALBA’S CUBAN COLADAS 55 Kiopaa St., Makawao, 305-773-7107 This coffee truck brings bold, rich flavors of authentic Cuban coffee, serving up potent espresso and traditional cuisine. Coffee Shop. $
CASANOVA 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-0220
Upscale Italian with delicious fresh pastas, wood-fired pizzas and polished service. Don't miss the wood-fired homemade focaccia served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Italian. D, R, $$
CRAVINGS MAUI 1043 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 344-6395 Soft-serve, sundaes, shave ice, smoothies, pizzas and desserts like the Brownie Flow and Islander hit the sweet spot Upcountry. Treats. $
ESPRESSO MAFIA 3617 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 286-9422 Options for every coffee lover with light bites on the side. Order a slice of fresh baked banana bread and a coconut cold brew, or try the ube latte for a violet delight! Coffee Shop. $
FRESHIES Makawao Courtyard, 3620 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 868-2350 Serving vegetarian and vegan-friendly recipes, each bite of their fresh food is a delight, from a musubi omelet with diced Spam to the coconut red curry bowl with tofu. American. B, L, $-$$
GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140 The eggs Benedict and baked goods made from scratch are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onions served with chips and coleslaw. Coffee Shop/Cafe. B, L, $-$$
HALI‘IMAILE GENERAL STORE 900 Hali‘imaile Rd., Makawao, 572-2666 Located on the road to Haleakalā, this farm-to-table restaurant blends Hawaiian and Asian cuisine. Don't miss the signature Maui Gold pineapple upside down cake. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$$
JOY’S PLACE LIVE 81 Makawao Ave., Pukalani, 5722186 Maui’s go-to for take-home health eats, from hearty bone broths to Buddha bowls, vegan desserts, tonics and almond shakes. Fresh homemade soups made daily highlight the menu. Cafe. B, L, D, $-$$
KALEI'S LUNCHBOX 55 Pukalani St., Makawao, 7930151 See Central listing.
KOJIMA'S SUSHI RESTAURANT 81 Makawao Ave., #114, Pukalani, 573-2859 Casual dining in the heart of Pukalani brings a fresh take on island-inspired sushi classics featuring favorites like the rainbow roll, Hawaiian roll and zesty, spicy edamame. Japanese. D, $$-$$$
KOMODA STORE AND BAKERY 3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-7261 This Makawao staple has been around since 1916. They bake delicious sweets like a guava malasada, cream puffs and donuts on a stick. Bakery. B, L, $$
KULA BISTRO 4566 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 871-2960 Nestled on Haleakalā’s slopes is a cozy Italian bistro serving homestyle food. The coconut shrimp with Molokai mashed potatoes is a work of art on a plate. Italian/ American. B, BR, L, D, $$
KULAMALU FOOD TRUCK LOT Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani, (next to Upcountry Longs) An eclectic array of fare – Thai, pizza, açai bowls, BBQ, plate lunches and more – draws crowds to Maui’s largest Upcountry food-truck hub. Food Truck. $-$$
LA PROVENCE 3158 L. Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313 French croissants, fruit tarts, blueberry-mango scones and artisan breads baked fresh daily. Carry out from the bakery or dine on the cozy outdoor patio. French/Bakery. B, L, (Wed-Sun), $
MAHALO ALEWORKS30 Kupaoa St., #101, Pukalani
Taste of Maui’s wild side with unique beers like a starfruit rose or Kupa‘a mango sour, each made from foraged yeast and local fruit for an upcountry flavor. Sip and watch the sunset from second-floor seating. Brewery. L, H, D. $-$$
MAKAWAO PUBLIC HOUSE 3612 BALDWIN AVE., MAKAWAO, 298-0590 The gastropub pays homage to this historic paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) town with Uncle Dave’s kalo burger, kanaka stew, and bangers and mash. Hawai‘i Regional. D, $$$
THE BOBA BAR 2 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 727-2445 Local boba gem bursting with flavor. Try delicious concoctions such as brown sugar matcha, honeydew milk tea and honey lavender latte. Treats. $
BAKED ON MAUI Pauwela Cannery, 375 W. Kuiaha Rd., #37, Ha‘ikū, 575-7836 Fresh artisan breads, irresistible cinnamon rolls with cream cheese frosting and a warm, welcoming atmosphere with every shot of espresso. Serves coffee, breakfast and lunch. Bakery/Coffee Shop. B, L, $$
ONLY ONO BBQ Heritage Hall, Pā‘ia, onlyonobbq.com, 777-9026 Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches, smoked brisket. Location varies (see website for schedule). Food Truck/Chinese/American. L, D, $
PAIA BAY COFFEE & BAR120 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5793111 Open-air, garden seating with live music, craft cocktails, coffee and meals served all day. The Aloha Hour from 3 to 5 p.m. features poke, ceviche and hurricane fries. American/ Hawai‘i Regional. B, BR, L, H, D, $$
MARLOW 30 Kupaoa St., A104, Pukalani, 868-3366
Chef Jeff and Kaili Scheer serve wood-fired sourdough pizza, house-made pasta, killer meatballs and rustic salads using local Maui ingredients. The menu rotates with the seasons, featuring vegan pizzas and cocktails. Italian. D, $-$$
MAUI COOKIE LADY 3643 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 7933172 Owner Mitzi Toro is the “Maui Cookie Lady,” baking thick, gourmet cookies in decadent flavors with locally sourced ingredients. Her creations are shipped nationwide. Treats. $
Enjoy wine tastings and light fare on the open-air lānai. Immaculate grounds surround the historic wine-tasting room, which features estate-grown blends and signature pineapple wines. Winery. L, $-$$
‘OHANA ISLAND GRINDZ 3647 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 500-3429 Cozy up with ‘ohana for local Hawaiian fare like saimin, loco moco and kalua pork. Don’t miss a scoop of classic or fruity ice cream. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, $-$$
POLLI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1202 Makawao Ave., Makawao 572-7808 A Makawao cornerstone since 1981, this lively, welcoming local watering hole is famous for its margaritas, hearty Tex-Mex–style fare and always buzzy vibe. Mexican. L, H, D, $$-$$$
OCEAN ORGANIC VODKA4051 Omaopio Rd., Kula, 877-0009 Relax and enjoy the panoramic view of the island as you sip on signature Ocean Organic Vodka and Kula Rum cocktails. For dinner, try the Uncle's Favorite flatbread or fresh ocean poke nachos. Pacific Rim. L, D, $$
O'O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula, 856-0141 Learn about gardening and coffee roasting. Enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the wood-burning oven and freshroasted coffee. Lunch includes chicken and fish entrees, veggies and dessert. American. B, L, R, $$$$
SATORI 3655 Baldwin Ave., Makawao 727-9638 Enjoy healthy sushi handrolls, like the Green Goddess with vegan mac nut pesto, ramen and inventive sushi specials with cozy outdoor seating in heart of Makawao. Food Truck/ Japanese. L, D, $$
ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Deli fare, lamb burgers with tzatziki and beef or grass-fed venison burgers. Plus, homestyle chili and rice, or kālua pork plate lunch. American. L, D, $
VIDA BY SIP ME 3671 Baldwin Ave., Unit H-101, Makawao, 868-0868 Vida delights the tastebuds with organic favorites like their rose latte, cold-pressed juices and pastries. Grab a bag of exclusive Vida Blend coffee, with notes of cherry, walnut and dark chocolate. Coffee Shop. B, L, $
THE WOODEN CRATE Lumerida Healing Retreat, 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877 Enjoy farm-to-table dining on a serene retreat landscape with clean, nutritious recipes incorporating harvested fruit and produce into a seasonal menu. Vegan/Vegetarian. B, L, D, $$$$
NORTH SHORE
AUMAKUA KAVA LOUNGE149 Hāna Hwy., Unit 3B, Pā‘ia, 793-3232 Tiki-inspired non-alcoholic mocktails made with kava, a traditional root beverage. Sip on the lychee fishbowl made with liliko‘i & lychee syrup, grapefruit, lime juice, bitters and kava. Lounge. $-$$
CAFÉ DES AMIS 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-6323 Savory crêpes served with wild greens and a dollop of sour cream. Lightly spiced curries come with chutney and raita (Indian yogurt sauce). Mediterranean. L, D, $
CAFE MAMBO 30 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-8021 Quaint Australian and European style cafe with all-day brunch and cocktail hours. Try the Toast Special with tomato confit on sourdough with whipped goat cheese and balsamic glaze. European. B, BR, L, $$
COLLEEN'S AT THE CANNERY Ha‘ikū Market, 810 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 Hearty New American fare. Comfort food done right, from eggs benedict for breakfast to dinnertime’s popular vodka penne and Maui beef burger. American. B, L, H, D, $$-$$$
CHOICE HEALTH BAR 11 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 6617711 See West Side listing.
FLATBREAD COMPANY 701 Hana Hwy., Pā‘ia, 5798844 Big booths, a snazzy bar scene and organic flatbreads laden with maple-fennel sausage and roasted veggies. Check-in each weekly for new carne and veggie specials. Kid-friendly. Pizza. L, D, N, $$
KUAU STORE 701 Hana Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8844 Stop along the road to Hāna for a plate lunch, morning coffee, locally made snacks or sweet treat. 2025 ‘Aipono Silver winner for Best Grab-and-Go. American/Local. B, L, D, $$
ISLAND FRESH CAFÉ381 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 495-3133 Local, sustainable bites in a former train station. Serves sushi, traditional, Hawaiian-inspired meals, smoothies, acai bowls, wraps, sandwiches and beverages. Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, $$
JAWS COUNTRY STORE 4320 Hāna Hwy., Ha‘ikū, 4196887 Bite into gourmet breakfasts, poke bowls and woodfired pizzas made with local ingredients. Visit the spectacular Jaws wave and shop unique gifts and apparel from the market. American/Local. B, L, D, $$
LIMA COCINA + CANTINA71 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 868-0520 Airy restaurant serving artful Peruvian cuisine like saltados and ceviche. Inventive pisco-heavy cocktail list and late-night offerings every Friday and Saturday night. Fridays are always Lima Latin Night with Salsa, Reggaeton and Cumbia. Latin-inspired. L, D, N, $$-$$$
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 Famous for its beautiful beachside setting and Polynesian-inspired cuisine, Mama’s evokes old-time island hospitality. Try specialty entrees like Antarctic toothfish caught at 6,000 feet under frozen glaciers. Hawaiian/ Seafood. L, D, R, $$-$$$$
MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 2810 Ha‘ikū Rd., 868-3518 A Mediterranean food truck to satisfy all your shawarma, gyro and falafel cravings. Try the vegetarian stuffed vine grape leaves with homemade Tahini or organic yogurt sauce. Food Truck/Mediterranean. L, D, $$
NUKA 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 Izakaya food with flavor and style. Start with paper-thin fried gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with ponzu sauce. Creative lunch and dinner specials. Save room for black-sesame or green-tea ice cream! Japanese. L, D, $$-$$$
NYLOS 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 This sixcourse prix-fixe tasting menu is created with the finest ingredients, like Osetra caviar, foie gras, wild truffles and line-caught local fish. International. D (5 & 8 p.m. seatings), R, $$$$
PAIA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 100 Hāna Hwy. Pā‘ia, 579-8030 Slabs of fish served with coleslaw on burger buns explain the line out the door. Order your ‘ahi burger rare with a side of fries and squeeze in beside surfers and families. Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D, $-$$
THAI SPICE 149 Hāna Hwy., #5, Pā‘ia, 579-8269 Every dish is made like you’re ‘ohana. Enjoy signature curries, pad thai and hand-rolled spring rolls. Don’t miss fresh mango with sticky rice for dessert. Southeast Asian. L, D, $$
TOBI'S POKE & SHAVE ICE 137 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-9745 A north shore go-to for heaping poke bowls and seared ahi plates. Or, cool down with a colorful shave ice with up to three flavors. Add vanilla soft serve or pineapple Dole Whip and top with specialty toppings like gummy bears. Local. L, $-$$
WABISABI SOBA & SUSHI 161 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 3183342 Relax and enjoy buckwheat soba noodles in a serene Zen garden or order fresh sushi at the sushi counter crafted from 200-year-old Japanese cherry wood. Japanese. L, D, $$
WAIKOMO SHAVE ICE 43 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 6515169 Earth-friendly, delicious shave ice served in a souvenir coconut bowl all topped with fresh fruit, coconut cream and local honey. Add vanilla or vanilla mac nut ice cream for extra sweetness. Treats. $
HĀNA
THE BAMBOO HALEHāna Farms, 2910 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 248-4047 Wood-fired pizzas with island-inspired pairings like ulu and pesto, complemented by farm-fresh harvest salads. Open-air dining surrounded by tropical gardens and live music every Friday. Pizza. L, D, $$-$$$
DA FISH SHACK 5260 Hāna Hwy., Hāna 269-3922 Your favorite island fish dish is on the menu at Da Fish Shack, from fresh fish tacos to poke and coconut shrimp. Not in the mood for fish? Go for a Paniolo burger with Black Angus beef. Seafood. D, $
HĀNA FARMS 2910 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 248-7371 Lush, seven-acre tropical paradise offering organic produce, handmade goods and bakery delights like their legendary banana bread using harvested Maui fruit. Bakery/Farm Stand. $
HĀNA HARVEST CAFE 2800 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 2699188 Farm-to-table cafe serving fresh smoothies, coffee and sandwiches. Try their purple sweet potato salad or delicious banana bread made from local produce. Cafe/Local. B, L, $-$$
HĀNA RANCH RESTAURANT 1752 Mill Pl., Hāna, 2705280 Chefs rely on nearby farms for seasonal produce and island-raised beef. Try fish sandwiches, kalbi ribs, ahi poke, veggie curry and the Hāna Ranch Mai Tai. Hawai‘i Regional, L, H, D, $$-$$$
THE RESTAURANT Hāna-Maui Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 This open-air dining room overlooks Hāna Bay and serves breakfast favorites like mochi pancakes and saimin. Lunch and dinner menus highlight regional fish, local produce, craft cocktails, house-made desserts and fresh island juices. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R, $$-$$$$
A seating area with a sofa and midcentury modern chairs by RH offers unparalleled ocean views. Local Ha‘ikū artists Dennis and Lucretia Holtzer carved the chaise lounge from a mango tree trunk. Sturdy plexi-resin cubes by Timothy Oulton house a jumble of eternally frozen black sticks — perfect to withstand roughhousing kids (as well as unruly grown-ups).
MODERN FAMILY RETREAT
Story by Lara McGlashan
Photographs by Travis Rowan
IT’S A PICTURE-PERFECT
day in Mākena, with a crisp, Disney-blue sky. The swirl of trade winds whisks away the heat as I drive through the gated entry to an intimate housing complex. I park and walk down a tunnel of tall Hawaiian ginger to the home’s front door; the verdant green leaves wave me in, and heavy red flowers nod hello.
Designer Tim Tattersall and the homeowner greet me in the entryway. Just inside, I see the standout architectural feature of the main floor: a 25-foot-high steel staircase around which the home was created. The gently curling center column reaches toward the domed ceiling like a flame, and wide treads splay outward – a deconstructed daisy.
“The previous owner was a big Star Trek fan,” explains Tattersall. “The staircase was inspired by the series, as well as the three niches in the upstairs atrium – the nooks you’d stand in to be ‘beamed’ to a planet’s surface.”
As we move into the open-plan living area, Tattersall explains the concept behind his design. “I wanted to curate a modern space for an art collector in a home that was otherwise cold,” he says.
And in this he succeeded: large propeller-like fans spin beneath a rich wooden ceiling which caps the entire front room and the patio just outside. In the direct center of the space, a 10-foot table crafted from a single live-edge slab of monkeypod waits for diners.
“It’s unusual to have a dining table in the middle of a large room, but here it creates a natural separation between two distinct seating areas,” says Tattersall.
“We very much wanted this house to be family-friendly and make it appealing for the grandkids,” adds the homeowner. “We added many features to that effect.”
Case in point: the seating area to the left of the dining table. A large white sofa and overstuffed chairs, by the upscale-furnishings company RH, are piled with blue and white cushions and look inviting, but also – speaking as a mom – risky.
“HOW DO YOU keep these clean with all the visiting grandkids?” I ask, imagining the horror of flying grape juice and thick splats of pizza sauce.
“All the furniture is covered with Sunbrella fabric,” says Tattersall. “Spills bead up and roll right off. It costs a little more up front, but it lasts for years and still looks like new.”
The seating area to the far right features more indestructible Sunbrella-clad furniture and what appears to be a large wooden sculpture.
“Go ahead and sit in it,” urges the homeowner. I do and find that it’s actually a chaise lounge with curves in all the right places to support your legs, arms and lower back. The piece was created by a local couple in Ha‘ikū, Dennis and Lucretia Holtzer, who carved it from a large mango tree trunk.
On the wall above the chaise hangs a flat-screen monitor with an endless video
A family-friendly living space featuring Sunbrella-covered furniture by RH is the perfect place for movie night. The built-in shelves display a collection of turn-of-the-century Bakelite radios as well as a blown-glass sculpture by Dale Chihuly. A pair of brilliant red and yellow oil paintings by Gabrielle Anderman add warmth to an otherwise monochromatic kitchen.
feed: an aerial view of two men sweeping trash hither and yon. Upon further study, I notice the men are sweeping the trash in a particular pattern and suddenly realize it’s a clock – an art installation created by Marten Baas.
“Do they ever stop sweeping?” I ask; surely while filming a 24-hour sweepathon the men must have had to use the facilities.
“Well, once we saw one of them leave for a short period of time and then come right back,” says the homeowner. “But that literally only happened once, and it never happened again!”
The entire back wall of the home folds open to create an airy indoor/outdoor living space, and Tattersall leads me onto the patio. To the right is a well-appointed barbecue area, to the left a fire pit surrounded by comfy seating. A sparkling infinity-edge pool is adjacent, and beyond, a yard of neat-and-tidy grass.
“We call this cashmere grass – it’s so soft,” says the homeowner. At the bottom of the “cashmere” hillside is a gate, allowing entry to a protected cove and a slim crescent of biscuit-colored beach bookended by craggy black lava outcroppings.
Back inside, we move through the kitchen, a crisp, modern space with large, stainless-steel appliances. A kidney-shaped glass countertop juts out from the island to allow for barstool seating; its twin in lightfixture form hangs above, illuminating the island through swirled glass.
Around the corner and tucked behind the staircase is a clever half-bath. The sink looks like an ocean wave, rising and curling and spreading across the dark-blue tile wall. The flip of a switch transforms the floor into a living ocean. Fish, turtles and other sea life react in real time with anyone entering the room — darting away as footsteps disturb their virtual sea-surface and sending concentric ripples outward.
Down the hallway to the left is a multipurpose media room with plush lounge chairs and a cabinet against the wall. Tattersall opens its top and sides to reveal its alter ego: a hideaway bed.
Designer Tim Tattersall planned the home around an existing 25-foot-high spiral staircase.
“RADD HAFERKAMP BUILT this cabinet and the custom walnut TV lift piece for the master, both of which I designed,” says Tattersall. “There’s also another hidden surprise to see when we go upstairs.”
With that we head up, following the curl of the iron flame. “We had to reconfigure the entire second floor to work with the homeowners’ vision,” says Tattersall as we enter a room on the left. “For instance, this used to be an open outdoor area which we enclosed to make an office and …” he pulls a handle to reveal another clandestine bed, “… it’s also a bedroom.”
Next door is the master bedroom, a large, comfortable space with a brilliant ocean view and the aforementioned TV cabinet. The highlight, however, is the bathroom. A white soaker tub stands front and center atop black, gray and white tiles with a circular pattern. More dusky-gray and white tiles march up and down the wall in a chevron pattern, and overseeing the scene is a white light fixture which looks decidedly like a pixelated cloud. A large steam shower with clever self-dimming windows is big enough for two, and to the right, a luxurious sauna.
We return to the atrium and pass by the Trekkie-inspired wall niches. Beyond, the hallway leads to a number of bedrooms and bathrooms, as well as a workout room with warm floor-to-ceiling cabinetry.
“Here’s the surprise,” says Tattersall, pulling on a handle. Down comes a bunk bed, then another and another – for a total of four secreted beds, a dream come true for kids of all ages.
On the way back downstairs, I notice a pair of oils by Gabrielle Anderman; the dark, monochromatic shapes make me think of massive mushrooms and dandelions gone to seed.
“It was a challenge to find fabric, furniture, art and patterns that would complement a 25-foot steel spiral staircase,” says Tattersall, showing me out. “I love the feeling of ‘exhale’ I get every time I walk in – it’s magnificent, yet warm and welcoming all at the same time. It is beautiful, and it works.”
Comfortable seating surrounds a patio firepit — ideal for kicking back and watching a Maui sunset. Beautiful tile work, a two-person steam shower and an ocean view make this master bath a showstopper. The light fixture by Daniel Liebskind floats like a cloud just above the deep soaker tub. Built-in bunk beds transform a workout room into sleeping quarters for visiting grandkids.
Sissy Lake-Farm
Makana Aloha O Ka Lauaʻe, Kumu Hula St. Anthony School, Hawaiian Culture and Language Teacher
as told to SAVANNAH DAGUPION
BEFORE I WAS born, hula was in my future. My Aunty Maiki Aiu, who was all things hula, told my parents, ‘If this child is a girl, she’s coming to me for hula.’ It was very predestined.
I was born into a family rich in Hawaiian culture and language. My dad, John Keola Lake, was a kumu hula (hula teacher). His cousins were Kahauanu and Tommy Lake of the Kahauanu Lake Trio.
“We each have kuleana,
and to my dying day, I will work on the kuleana that has been given to me.”
I was blessed – not everyone has this story. Surrounded by hula from the womb, it came naturally to me. You know how water people need the ocean, otherwise they go cuckoo? It’s like that for me with hula. It’s who I am – my key to balance.
I grew up in Kaimukī, Oʻahu. I went to Kahala Elementary, St. Patrick and Sacred Hearts Academy. For college, I stayed home at Chaminade – I didn’t want to miss hula – earning degrees in fine arts and English. I later worked for C.S. Wo & Sons and Gap Inc., opening stores in Waikīkī and the continent. After moving to Maui to open Nā Mea Hawaiʻi in Lahaina, I stayed connected to hālau (hula school). My dad arranged for me to train with Aunty Gordean Lee Bailey in Kula.
After a few years, my dad said it was time to prepare for ‘uniki (graduation to become a kumu hula). I trained between Maui and Oʻahu – one of the most challenging times of my life. My hānai (adopted) brother, Kaponoʻai Molitau, who had already finished ʻuniki, became my kiaʻi, my support, during the process. Dad made us work together. He ultimately wanted us to open a hālau together, and we did. I graduated from ʻuniki in February 2003, and we opened hālau that May.
I was also performing in ʻUlalena – even pregnant on stage. After my children were born, I left ʻUlalena. I raised them as I was raised – hearing oli (chant) and feeling the beat of the ipu (gourd) and pahu (drum). They understand the hālau community, who they are and their kuleana (responsibility) to our legacy. For years, my energy went into being a mom and into Pūnana Leo and Kula Kaiapuni (Hawaiian immersion schooling).
Then Hōkūau Pellegrino asked if I’d consider being the Executive Director of the Maui Historical Society. Once I got the job, I learned a lot about my Maui roots. I felt like that time was very divine and kūpuna (ancestor) driven. Working with Erin Wade and Kelly White, we started a public art initiative infused with history and sense of place. Today, we still gather community members, kūpuna and artists for intergenerational conversations that become catalysts for art.
With hālau, I hit a point where I needed to fly on my own. My brother was shocked – we thought we’d be in hālau together forever, as dad wanted. In 2020, I started my own hālau. I’m grateful Kaponoʻai understood my needs and I was able to take that step.
This past summer, I resigned from MHS after 12 years. My time there was wonderful, but I needed to refocus on my hālau, my legacy, my culture – to me, that’s paramount.
Then my friend Lilyana Koa at St. Anthony said the school was developing a Hawaiian program. It felt like another divine call. My dad graduated from St. Anthony, and now I’m a kumu there. It’s been less than two months, I’m a party of one, but I love it. Dad was an amazing educator, and being in the classroom, I get why he was so passionate and dedicated. The kids deserve it.
We had our first papa makua (parent visit).
The kids are learning ‘ ʻŌiwi E,’ and that night, two brothers came up and sang for the group.
The older brother was alakaʻi (lead) and the little brother followed. I was floored. I said, ‘Oh my, thank you, dad.’ It was one of those moments –holy smokes, this is what it’s about.”
Everything I do centers on the preservation and protection of our Hawaiian culture, language and history. It goes back to my upbringing and understanding of kuleana. We each have kuleana, and to my dying day, I will work on the kuleana that has been given to me.
Being a child of Hawaiʻi is a blessing I don’t take for granted. The biggest concept I advocate for is aloha – loving one another, giving with kindness, and promoting with honor, support and respect. I know it’s the old adage, but it rings true. We can never go wrong with aloha. We always lead with aloha.”
