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CONTENTS 48
BEST OF MAUI: FEATURES
48
MAUI STYLE The Shaka List Our annual love song to the people, places and experiences that make Maui nō ka ‘oi (the best).
Story by Shannon Wianecki
56
HAWAIIAN SOUL What Is a Hawaiian Education? Three experts explore what it means to be an educated Hawaiian in the twenty-first century—and why it matters.
Story by Teya Penniman
62
ADVENTURE Restoring the Forest Habitat loss is threatening Maui’s rare endemic birds. Can rebuilding the ecosystem bring them back?
Story by Cody Roberts
68 GOLF
They Are the Champions Golf royalty returns to Kapalua at the Sentry Tournament of Champions.
ON THE COVER
Canoes sporting the red and yellow of Kihei Canoe Club—and Hawaiian royalty—line Kalae Pohaku Beach north of Kīhei town. Public access to every beach on Maui makes this year’s Shaka List of things we love about this island. (For more, see page 48.) Photo by Ron Dahlquist
72 AT HOME
Lofty Pursuit A Wailuku apartment gets a modern makeover— and it’s just what the doctor ordered.
Story by Sarah Ruppenthal
14
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SHANOALEIGH MARSON
Story by Kyle Ellison
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Banyan Tree With a focus on Hawaiian culture and local products, Head Chef Isabelle Toland brings her French and Filipino roots to Kapalua’s renowned and reimagined Banyan Tree restaurant. Highlighted by a hand-crafted wooden bar that wraps around the center of the restaurant allowing for an open concept with expansive views, the restaurant’s transformation pays homage to the history of banyan trees in Hawaii as a gathering place to meet and share a meal. Chef Bella’s vibrant new menu embraces that spirit and invites you on a journey to discover the roots of the land while incorporating the island’s most unique and sustainable ingredients. Classic Hawaiian recipes are deconstructed and redesigned with a local twist using Mediterranean cooking techniques to develop a menu that will enliven your senses through the ways of the islands.
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CONTENTS
DEPARTMENTS
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34
BEHIND THE SCENES
#MAUINŌKA‘OI
It takes a lot of talents to make
Tag! We’re it!
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi the magazine it is.
Our fans get social.
Here’s what a few participants had to say.
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GREAT FINDS
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
Our 2019 Holiday Gift Guide
by Diane Haynes Woodburn
We’ve got the goods on where savvy Santas shop.
28
Compiled by Marluy Andrade
IN SEASON
124
Hawaiian Twist
WHO’S WHO
Decorate your holiday table with a wreath
Seen making the scene on Maui
of island flora.
126
Story by Shannon Wianecki
32
DINING
CALENDAR What’s happening where, when, and with whom
92
130
Cultured Fellow
A father-son holiday tradition rolls on
A PERFECT DAY ON MAUI
Mycologist Charles Tresidder logs
in Da Maui Sleigh.
Rise to the Occasion
a lot of time around mushrooms.
Story by Sarah Ruppenthal
Trade the holiday bustle for an Upcountry
Story by Becky Speere
itinerary filled with leisurely discoveries.
94
TALK STORY Joy Ride
BECKY’S BACKYARD
Story by Lehia Apana
DINING FEATURE
92
A Very Vegan Holiday Test Kitchen Savor the flavor with delectable dishes from award-winning Moku Roots. Story by Becky Speere
100 HOLIDAY RECIPES A Delicious Spin on Entertaining Unwrap these Mill House recipes for your next party—they’re anything but run-of-the-mill!
104 MAUI MIXOLOGY Sustainable Spirit In Chicago, the beer is green every St. Patrick’s Day. At Maui Brewing Company, the drinks are green all year long. Story by Becky Speere
108 Dining Guide A short list of our favorite places to eat all over the island
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LEFT: MIEKOHORIKOSHI; TOP: RYAN SIPHERS
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Publisher
Diane Haynes Woodburn
Group Publisher Michael Haynes Creative Director Paul B. Morris
Senior Editor Rita Goldman
EDITORIAL
Managing Editor Lehia Apana Dining Editor Becky Speere Home & Garden Editor Sarah Ruppenthal Great Finds Editor Marluy Andrade Website Manager Adelle Lennox ART
Associate Art Director Shanoaleigh Marson
Account Manager Brooke Tadena Advertising Sales Representative Felix Sunny D’Souza Advertising Sales Representative Elisa Jae Sales & Production Coordinator Lisa Liu Advertising Sales 808-242-8331
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Subscription Inquiries toll free: 844-808-MAUI (6284) or visit Subscribe.MauiMagazine.net National MagNet, National MagNet, Disticor Magazine Distribution Services
Hawai‘i MagNet In Room Maui Circulation CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Lehia Apana, Kyle Ellison, Teya Penniman, Cody Roberts, Sarah Ruppenthal, Becky Speere, Shannon Wianecki CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Mieko Horikoshi, Shanoaleigh Marson, Cody Roberts, Travis Rowan, Ryan Siphers, Becky Speere CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR
C. M. Butzer E-mail Address Info@MauiMagazine.net Moving? Send address changes to Haynes Publishing Group, 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793. Please note: If the post office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, Haynes Publishing has no further obligation, unless we receive a corrected address within one year of that notification.
Publishers of Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi, Kā‘anapali, Island Living, and Eating & Drinking 90 Central Ave., Wailuku, HI 96793; 808-242-8331. ISSN 2473-5299 (print)| ISSN 2473-5469 (online) ©2019 Haynes Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reprinted and/or altered without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any advertising matter. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are welcome, but must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. The publisher assumes no responsibility for care and return of unsolicited material. Individual issues are available upon written request at $4.95 per issue plus postage. Yearly U.S. subscriptions $21; Canadian subscriptions $29; foreign subscriptions $40. Payable in U.S. currency. MauiMagazine.net
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C O N T R I B U T O R S
‘Twas a few days before Christmas and all through my house, not a creature was stirring, not even my spouse. When out on my street there arose such a clatter, I sprang from my desk to see what was the matter. Away to the window I flew like a flash . . . just in time to see Da Maui Sleigh pass. The sleigh paid a visit to my Ha‘ikū neighborhood that evening, and I’ll never forget the delighted expressions on the faces of its young passengers. Having the opportunity to meet James Presbitero and learn the history of Da Maui Sleigh makes that memory even sweeter. —Sarah Ruppenthal, “Joy Ride,” page 32
As a photographer you’re always looking for a new angle to capture your subject. For this year’s Holiday Test Kitchen, I was leaning far over the table from the top of a six-foot ladder, capturing the angle from high overhead. Everyone was having a great time enjoying the feast, but in the back of my mind, I know we were all hoping I would not, literally, crash the party. —Ryan Siphers, “A Very Vegan Holiday Test Kitchen,” page 94
BEHIND THE SCENES
What did it take for you to get this story? With Hawaiian language, proper pronunciation is everything! This became hilariously obvious during a recent editorial meeting, as we were discussing the ‘ūlei flower that Shannon Wianecki writes about in this issue (“Native Wreath,” page 28). Here’s a tip: Be sure to emphasize the “i” at the end (pronounced “ee,” as in “oolay-ee”), or else it will sound like the Hawaiian word for a particular part of the male anatomy. I’m still chuckling, even as I type this. —Lehia Apana
Stepping through Maui Sporting Goods’ door is like entering an armory for modern-day ocean warriors. Spear guns doubling as art line the walls; flashy lures compete for attention; and camouflage wetsuits are the waterman’s answer to chain mail. After spending time there, talking to the pros, I’m inspired to learn the art of free-diving myself! —Marluy Andrade, “Holiday Gift Guide,” page 36.
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Join world-class vintners, sommeliers and top chefs on Maui for a luxury wine and food event curated in partnership with “wine therapist to the stars” Christian Navarro of Wally’s Wine & Spirits. Our inaugural event was awarded Robb Report’s “Best of the Best” New Wine Festival 2019. fourseasons.com/mauiclassic | 808-874-8000 @FSMaui | #FSMauiClassic
s the weather begins to bring a pleasant coolness Upcountry, my husband, Jamie, begins his annual check and recheck of his olive orchards, collecting samples, and testing the tiny fruit for ripeness. Each year, I pester him for the date to invite friends to help in the harvest and enjoy a festive dinner afterwards, but each year is different: The time to pick is the week the fruit is a magical combination of almost ripe, ripe, and very ripe. Like tiny Christmas lights, they shine in a myriad of colors, from soft sage to electric green, violet, dark plum, and some nearly black. Give a ripe olive a good squeeze between your thumb and forefinger, and you will be rewarded with a squirt of oil—a bit shocking for the uninitiated who falls for the invite of close inspection. Jamie sits at our dining table, looking over notes, as I attempt to clear a space to join him. During harvest, it takes about thirty seconds for our house to morph from nearly neat to pure chaos. The great room—kitchen, living room, dining room— becomes one great big mess. Several potted trees that Jamie promised to plant in the orchard weeks ago may take root in my kitchen before he actually moves them. Shiny, stainless-steel fusti crowd the kitchen counters, and stacks of plastic crates (for olive gathering) await their turn to be loaded into Jamie’s truck, meanwhile turning the living room into an obstacle course. Amid this eclectic farm collection are my small attempts at civility. A crystal vase filled with bright flowers struggles for attention behind garden gloves and empty oil bottles. On the dining table, heirloom candlesticks perch precariously amid baseball caps, calendars, multiple notebooks, reading glasses, and a dozen or so plump olives that my husband picked earlier today. I begin to claim a space at the table, brushing away the little fruit. Jamie looks up, his face stricken with horror. “What are you doing? I need those!” He snatches the olives from certain doom, tucking them lovingly into his pocket. “I’ll add these to the press this afternoon.” Then he smiles. “Every little bit counts.” Forgiven, I sit down amid the chaos. I’ll clean later. Better yet, I’ll make my own mess! Nothing calms my nerves like making bread. I stride to the kitchen counter, shove aside the garden gloves and bottles that have taken up residence there, and unearth (and clean) enough space to start baking. I haul out the flour, and dust the room in a cloud of white while I work. Later that evening, Jamie and I revel in the rewards of our labor, dipping warm, crusty bread into freshly milled olive oil. Heaven could do no better. “Next weekend,” he promises, “the harvest dinner is on.” I scan the room, seeing the miniature indoor orchard with new eyes. As an ancient symbol of peace, prosperity, and hope, the olive is the perfect harbinger of the holidays. This season, may the humble olive inspire you, as well—not only to rejoice with friends and family in the rewards of your labor, but to share your good fortune with others. At left, in the sidebar, are four of my favorite nonprofits, each one serving our community in important ways. As Jamie reminds us, “Every little bit counts.”
when every little bit helps . . .
MY SHORT LIST OF WORTHY WAYS TO GIVE Ka Lima O Maui creates a path to independence through job training for adults with disabilities. KaLimaOMaui.org Imua Family Services aids children with developmental learning challenges, as well as their families. ImuaFamilyServices.org Maui Food Bank brightens the holidays—and the whole year—for those who face food insecurity. MauiFoodBank.org Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center provides communitybased visual-arts education, because man does not live by bread alone. HuiNoeau.com
Wishing you the bounty of the season—and a little olive oil to go with it. A hui hou,
Diane Haynes Woodburn Publisher
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MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
A
ERIN DIAZ
P U B L I S H E R ' S
N O T E
’TIS THE SEASON
Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine presents
THE 2020 ‘AIPONO RESTAURANT AWARDS:
“HUNGER GAMES” WHO WILL BE OUR CHAMPIONS? LET THE VOTES BEGIN!
In Hawaiian, ‘ai means “to eat” and pono means “excellence.” The ‘Aipono Gala promotes excellence and distinction among the island’s most talented chefs and leading restaurants. Awards are given in 40 categories as voted by you, our readers. Join the festivities as we celebrate our culinary stars . . . with gusto! The ‘Aipono Gala and ‘Aipono Wine Dinner series benefit UH–Maui College’s Culinary Arts Program.
SAVE THE DATE
AND DRESS FOR THE GAMES FRIDAY, APRIL 3 THE RITZ-CARLTON KAPALUA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT ‘AIPONO AWARD HONOREE PETER MERRIMAN
MAUI NŌ KA ‘OI » SEP-OCT 2014
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I N
S E A S O N
TALK STORY
From time to time, Judy Bisgard teaches wreath-making at Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center. This one she made for us, using Hawaiian ferns entwined with ‘ūlei from Maui Native Nursery in Kula.
HAWAIIAN TWIST
Decorate your holiday table with a wreath of island flora.
W
reath-makers on the mainland have their pick of firs and pines, but here in Hawai‘i we have the lovely ‘ūlei. This sprawling indigenous shrub is a perfect adornment for a festive table, with shiny green pinnate leaves and clusters of small white flowers. ‘Ūlei, or Osteomeles anthyllidifolia, belongs to the rose family; its blossoms exude a sweet perfume and its pale berries have a slight rose flavor. Hawaiian lei makers prize the plant and wind its strands into lei wili (twisted lei) or lei wili papa (lei lashed to a central cord). In times past, Native Hawaiians ate ‘ūlei berries when suffering from sore 28
MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
throats, thrush, or other ailments, and applied mashed ‘ūlei bark and leaves to open wounds. The shrub’s wood is pliant and strong, used to fashion fish-net loops, digging sticks, and small spears. Musicians turn flat strips of ‘ūlei into ‘ukēkē, clever stringed instruments held between the lips and played while chanting. ‘Ūlei grows from sea level to 7,000 feet in elevation and can be found decorating residences and resorts around Maui. It can manifest as a prostrate groundcover or an upright stubby tree with a spread of up to ten feet. If left unmanicured, its branches often reach out like the tenta-
cles of an ambitious octopus, a tendency alluded to in a Hawaiian proverb: He ‘ūlei kolo. A creeping ‘ūlei. The expression refers to a tough, strong person. If you can’t find any ‘ūlei to harvest for your wreath, consider planting some of your own. The hardy species is one of the few native Hawaiian plants that can survive fires and resprout from the base of the stem. Its dark green foliage makes an attractive addition to any garden. To initiate flowering, cut back on watering. You can view ‘ūlei growing at the Maui Nui Botanical Garden in Kahului, or alongside the trail in Haleakalā National Park.
SHANOALEIGH MARSON; INSET: FOREST & KIM STARR
STO RY BY S H A N N O N W I A N EC K I
MAUI MASTERPIECE RE-IMAGINED
REFINED AND RE-IMAGINED, THE COORE-CRENSHAW DESIGNED PLANTATION COURSE REOPENS NOVEMBER 2019
There is only one Plantation Course. Re-imagined by Coore & Crenshaw, the new Plantation Course debuts this November and is ready to test the PGA TOUR’s best during the Sentry Tournament of Champions in January. Visit www.GolfAtKapalua.com or call 1-877-KAPALUA for tee times and information.
JOIN US AT HYATT REGENCY MAUI, HOME OF SIX ‘AIPONO AWARDS.
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The HYATT trademark and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2019 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved. TAT NUMBER: TA-161-564-6720-01
JOY RIDE
A father-son holiday tradition rolls on. STO RY BY SA R A H RU P P E N T H A L
O
n a balmy December evening twentyone years ago, James Presbitero saw something unusual pass his grandmother’s Central Maui home: a pickup truck towing a small trailer-turned-sleigh. His interest piqued, he recruited his father, Kalani, to help him cobble together a sleigh atop a utility trailer hitched to Kalani’s truck. They used what they could find: two pieces of plywood, a can of red paint, and twinkling string lights plugged into the truck’s cigarette lighter. In the nights that followed, family and friends piled into the “sleigh” and cruised the neighborhood. After Christmas, James and Kalani dismantled it, but rebuilt it the next year. And the year after that. 32
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The father-son project became a Christmastime fixture. At dusk, kids lingered, waiting, and on spotting the sleigh, would give chase, pleading for a ride. Before Kalani passed away in 2011, he asked James to carry on the tradition. “He saw how much joy it brought to others.” James decided to bring “Da Maui Sleigh” to other neighborhoods. He posted a self-produced video on Facebook, and within minutes, his phone started to ring and emails began flooding his inbox. Since then, he has racked up more miles—and smiles—than he can count. He puts his landscaping business on hold most of December and hits the road with Santa, a gaggle of elves, Sandy the Snow-
man, and a puppet named Wilson. From morning to night, they give free rides to hundreds of passengers of all ages at “Santa Stops” in neighborhoods and at schools, churches, nursing homes, and charitable organizations all over Maui. Donation-fueled, volunteer-powered, Da Maui Sleigh is an in-demand holiday staple. And it’s impossible to miss: Apart from its flashing neon lights, subwoofer speakers, and glee-inducing bubble and snow machines, the no-horse open sleigh is decked out in graphics whose theme changes every year (past themes include Dr. Seuss’s How the Grinch Stole Christmas and Disney’s Moana and Frozen). James says the rewards are immeasurable. “I can put someone in a four-byeight trailer with bubbles and Christmas music and give them five minutes of pure joy. That’s why I do it every year . . . and why I’ll keep doing it for as long as I can.” Learn more—like how to get Da Maui Sleigh to visit your neighborhood or event—at DaMauiSleigh.com.
SHANOALEIGH MARSON
D A
M A U I
S L E I G H
TALK STORY
James Presbitero is the driving force behind Da Maui Sleigh . . . and Mr. and Mrs. Claus are two of his biggest fans.
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I T ! W E ' R E T A G ,
@ERNIRBLACKPHOTOGRAPHY A pair of juvenile fish face off at the top of this crown jellyfish. It was difficult to photograph with my lens choice (16mm fisheye), and the fact that the fish were hiding on the opposite side. This is one of those freak shots that captured an unusual split second of nature doing its thing. #faceoff #belowthesurface #snorkelsurprise
@MIKEHUYNHPHOTOGRAPHY The Heart Shaped Rock [at Nakalele Blowhole] was pretty cool to photograph with the backdrop of the ocean and landscape. If you make your way to Maui, I would recommend taking the time to go! #nakalele #blowholes #rockformations #photographyislife
@COCONUT_LILLYKOI Fun afternoon session. Mahalo, @bragging_rights_photos and @outrageoussurf for the #pigonboard #standuppaddlepig #suppig #surfingpig
#MAUINŌKA‘OI
It’s official: Our readers are as obsessed with Maui as we are. Follow @MauiMag on Instagram, then tag us in your photos, and we’ll share some of our favorites.
@UPPERLEFTPHOTOGRAPHY
@SUPERTEEWHY @SEAANDSUMMITPHOTOGRAPHY “White sandy beach” #hawaii #maui #beachlife #wanderlust #paradise #happyplace #letsgosomewhere #dronestagram #fromwhereidrone
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“Once upon a sky” Back on my favorite island on the planet. Maui is my home and inspiration. #Aloha #alohaoutdoors #hawaiianislands #MauiHawaii #hilife #islandlife #sunsets
“Hello weekend” #igers_seattle #justgoshoot #lethawaiihappen #mauinokaoi #twoticketstoparadise #momentofzen #haleakalanationalpark #findyourpark
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SHOPPING * DINING * ACTIVITIES * MODERN ACCOMMODATIONS
Enjoy the hospitality of Maui’s plantation era at the historic Pioneer Inn on Lahaina Harbor. Plenty of Places to Shop with over 14 Retailers ∏ Restaurants Maui Toy Works
Red Dirt Shirt
Bar & Grill
Best Western Pioneer Inn, 658 Wharf Street, Lahaina (808) 661-3636 www.pioneerinnmaui.com
Native Intelligence’s custom lei are as unique as they are exquisite. Available in keiki (child) and adult sizes. Seasonal and subject to availability of flowers. In-store purchases only; no shipping. Prices vary.
Our HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE We’ve got the goods
At Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2421, Native-Intel.com
Making Tracks
In 2017, Kalani Pe‘a became the first-ever Hawaiian recording artist to win both a Grammy and a Nā Hōkū Hanohano Award (Hawai‘i’s version of the Grammys) for his debut album, E Walea. He released a second album, No ‘Ane‘i, the following year. Both feature a mix of original and cover songs.
on where savvy Santas shop.
T H E
L O C A L - C U L T U R E
B U F F
GREAT FINDS
A Perennial Favorite
F O R
$20 each at KalaniPeaMusic.com
The Real Deal
Kū-A-Kanaka’s Cards for 808 is a party game chockfull of local humor. Play it in da garage, down da beach, or wherevah you like gather with family and friends. $58 at Hale Hō‘ike‘ike at the Bailey House, 2375 Main St., Wailuku, 244-3326, MauiMuseum.org
Statement Pieces
Brush Strokes
Maui artist Avi Kiriaty brings the Polynesian lifestyle and landscape to life in his vibrant works of art. This original oil painting, titled “New Canoe,” reflects his penchant for rich colors and bold lines. $2,420 at Maui Hands, 1169 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-2008, MauiHands.com
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Kanilehua Enterprises creates distinctive jewelry and accessories using the ancient craft of lauhala weaving. Handwoven bracelets are 7”–9” in diameter. $20–$40. Order online, or stop by the kiosk in Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Nov. 29–Dec. 24, 4–8 p.m. 757-2389, KanilehuaEnterprises.com
GREAT FINDS F O R
Fine-Tuned
Mele Ukulele’s limited-edition koa soprano ‘ukulele hits all the right notes with its durable design and superior acoustical properties. Comes with abalone-shell or vintage rope inlay. 21” long. From $89 (pictured
T H E
model is $699) at Mele Ukulele, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-6353; and 1750 Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Wailuku, 244-3938; MeleUkulele.com
K E I K I
Fashion Forward
Made from light, breathable fabric, Kealopiko’s keiki (children’s) tees take their design cues from Hawai‘i’s history, culture, and natural environment. $25–$28 at Native Intelligence, 1980 Main St., Wailuku, 249-2421; Kealopiko.com
Change Agents
As Maui’s only cloth-diaper laundry and delivery service, Kōkua Diaper does the dirty work for you, delivering a fresh supply of organic cotton diapers to your door every week. Sign up via the website. $35 per week. 573-1236, KokuaDiaper.com
The Buddy System
What’s the best gift of all? A friend for life. Your new bestie is waiting for you at the Maui Humane Society. If you’re not ready for a full-time BFF, you can sign up to walk, bathe, groom, or play with the animals at the shelter. Volunteers can also provide temporary care for foster animals—cats, dogs, rabbits, and guinea pigs—who aren’t quite ready for adoption or when the shelter is full. Mehameha Loop, Pu‘unēnē, 877-3680, MauiHumaneSociety.org
Four Wheelin’
Surf the skatepark on Jucker Hawai‘i’s Pono Mini cruiser, featuring a painting of West Maui’s Honolua Bay by local artist Erik Abel. Comes fully assembled and ready to ride. Jucker donates a portion of each sale to the Save Honolua Coalition. 31” long, 10” wide. $159.95 at Jucker Hawai‘i, 151 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 205-4517, HawaiiLongboards.com
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GREAT FINDS F O O D I E
Yes, it does taste as good as it looks. CymzSweetKre8tionz whips up eye-catching, palate-pleasing desserts using topnotch ingredients and Maui-grown fruits.
Prices vary. 153 Ma‘a St., Kahului, 250-3070, CymzSweetKre8tionz.com
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Sweet Somethings
The Bee’s Teas
Maui Jun Company ferments its kombucha with raw Hawaiian honey instead of cane sugar. The result: Jun, dubbed the “Champagne of Kombucha” for its light and smooth flavor profile. 16 oz. $8 at Maui Jun Company, 60 Wakea Ave., Kahului; Upcountry Farmers Market on Saturdays 7–11 a.m., 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani; 344-0241, MauiJunCompany.com
Showstopper
Altar Ceramics’ stylish, handcrafted corked canisters are ideal for storing spices and other small items. Slight variations add to the character of each piece. Three sizes (3”x4”, 3”x5”, 3.5”x6”). $48–$62, in Pā‘ia at Pearl Butik, 71 Baldwin Ave., Sea La Vie, 106 Hāna Hwy., and Biasa Rose, 104 Hāna Hwy.; and in Lahaina at Goin Left, 143 Dickenson St. 808-455-3451, Info@AltarCeramics.com, AltarCeramics.com
Core Value
Pineapple & Co.’s brass pineapple shot-glass set will put the crowning touch on any holiday soirée. Set of two 2 oz. shot glasses. $35 at Maui Tropical Plantation’s Plantation Store, 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 244-7643, MauiTropicalPlantation.com
Nutty by Nature
This 72-page illustrated guide teaches the ABCs of coconuts—from how to safely crack them open, to recipes to try at home. $10 at Coconut Information, 11 Kane Rd., Ha‘ikū, 495-2537, CoconutInformation.com
GREAT FINDS F O R
Snap This Up
Dunk it. Drop it. Crash it. The tough-as-nails GoPro Hero 7 is built to last. Waterproof to a depth of 33 feet. Features include a touch screen, voice control, GPS location tracking, and live streaming capabilities. Available in black or silver.
A Timely Gift
$399.99 at Hi-Tech Surf Sports, 425 Koloa St., #107, Kahului, 877-2111, SurfMaui.com
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Breitling partnered with sustainable-apparel manufacturer Outerknown to create the Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown wristwatch. Features a stainless-steel case, blue dial, and blue strap made from regenerated nylon yarn.
A D R E N A L I N E
$7,100 at Tourneau, The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-4900; and Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-6806, Tourneau.com
Maui Sporting Goods, 92 N. Market St., Wailuku, 244-0011, MauiSporting.com
One for the Road
Surprise them with an unforgettable outdoor experience. Ideally located near some of Maui’s best trails, Krank Cycles has a fleet of bikes to rent, including the light and speedy Raleigh Merit 3. Rent it for $39 a day;
$32 per day for 3 to 6 days; $150 per week at Krank Cycles, 1120 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 572-2299, KrankMaui.com
A D D I C T
Take the Plunge
Spearfishers and freedivers will flip for Meandros’s MS carbon fins, made of 100 percent carbon fiber, with custom moldable Pathos foot pockets for a perfect fit. Blades measure 76 cm long and 20 cm wide, and come with a three-year guarantee for normal use. $549.97 at
Carrying Capacity
J. McLaughlin’s roomy nylon/leather weekender makes going on your next adventure a breeze. Zip closure, adjustable shoulder strap. 15” tall, 21” long, 9” deep. $298 at J. McLaughlin in The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 844532-5625, JMcLaughlin.com
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GREAT FINDS
Neat Tricks
A F I C I O N A D O
Packed with earth-friendly ingredients, Practically Magic’s chemical-free allpurpose cleaner and dish soap keep things spic and span in the most sustainable way possible.
W E L L N E S S
Cleaner, 16 oz. for $10; dish soap, 32 oz. for $15. Purchase your first bottle or refill an empty one at the Upcountry Farmers Market on Saturdays from 7 to 11 a.m. 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani; 492-0435, PracticallyMagicHawaii.com
T H E
Kuumba? Yeah!
F O R
A few drops of Kuumba Made’s concentrated fragrance oils linger on the skin throughout the day. Available in several scents, including white ginger and pīkake lei.
1/8 oz., $13.49 at Down to Earth, 305 Dairy Rd., Kahului; 800-588-6220, KuumbaMade.com
Raising The Bar
True Lye’s small-batch soaps are more than just eye candy— they’re made with organic, cruelty-free, and Rainforest Alliance-certified oils, butters, and fragrances. Colors and sizes vary. 3.5–4.5 oz. $10 unwrapped; $15 gift wrapped. Available at the Upcountry Farmers Market on Saturdays from 7 to 11 a.m. 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani; 666-0202, TrueLye.com
Salvation Awaits
Loaded with antiinflammatory ingredients, Aloha Aina Adaptogens’ allorganic Noni Hemp CBD herbal salve treats stiffness, swelling, bruising, rashes, blemishes, and other ailments.
2 oz. for $45 at The Dragon’s Den Herb Shop, 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 572-2424, DragonsDenHawaii.com
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Mists for Your Mrs. or Mr.
Maui life coach and alchemist Becki Weeks handpicked the essential oils in her age-defying Blue Youth Face Mist and energyfield-cleansing You’re the Sage Mist. 2 oz. for $25. At the Upcountry Farmers Market on Saturdays, 7 to 11 a.m., 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani; 4951335, BeckiWeeks.com
Experience the Adventure of a Lifetime SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS
Reservations (808) 877-3167 sunshinehelicopters.com MAUI
KAUAI
BIG ISLAND
ADVERTORIAL
HOLIDAY
Marketplace
Put yourself in an island state of mind and treat yourself from head to toe . . . with a little help from these first-rate Maui shops.
HolidayandCompany HolidayandCompany is a charming boutique in the heart of Makawao town in the historic K. Matsui Building. There you will find unique and innovative clothing designers, leather goods, and jewelry. 3681 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 808-572-1470, HolidayAndCo@gmail.com, IG: @HolidayAndCompany, HolidayAndCoMaui.com
Collections Across thirty-five years, Collections has gathered a loyal following of residents and visitors who turn to us for casual and chic Maui-style clothing, artistic and whimsical gifts, jewelry, accessories, and items for the home. Visit, and you’ll see how hard it is to leave empty-handed! 3677 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, CollectionsMauiInc.com, 808-572-0781
‘Alohi Maui Illuminate your skin with island-crafted conscious skincare from ‘Alohi Maui. ‘Alohi Rainwater Essence and Golden Oil work together to reveal radiance with locally sourced, nutrient-rich, organic ingredients. Uncompromising quality, waste-free reusable packaging. Find retailers or order at AlohiMaui.com
ADVERTORIAL
Blue Bottle Love These blue glass water bottles are deeply sandblasted with positive intentions, making them exceptional for honoring water and raising the collective consciousness in regards to water and all of life. Live green, drink blue! For retail store locations, visit BlueBottleLove.com. 808-876-0009, Connect@LovBlu.com FB/IG: @BlueBottleLove Kachi Jewelry Beautiful jewelry from one of Maui’s own, Cathy U‘u. Handcrafted in Pā‘ia, these unique pieces are sold at the Four Seasons Resort Maui every Monday, in the south lobby of The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Villas every Wednesday, and on the boardwalk at the Villas every Friday. KachiInc.com, IG: @Kachi_Inc, KachiJewelry@gmail.com, 808-281-0454
Amy Wakingwolf Ocean activist and hot-glass artist Amy Wakingwolf fire sculpts stunning gold and silver honu (turtles) with shimmering oceans inside their shells. Find her exquisite miniature works of art at the Maui Ocean Center, and Whalers Village boardwalk kiosks. FB/IG: @TurtleLoversMaui, SeaTurtleJewelry.com
Ho‘omana Spa Maui Ho‘omana Spa Maui is a locally owned and operated day spa that perpetuates Ancient Hawaiian ways while offering transformational Hawaiian spa rituals, couples’ retreats, healing baths, and herbal body treatments. 1550 Pi‘iholo St., Makawao, 808-573-8256, Reservations@HoomanaSpaMaui.com, HoomanaSpaMaui.com
ADVERTORIAL
Alpha Maui Alpha Maui is a local clothing brand featuring original designs, artwork, and photography. Using natural materials, we encourage adventure and exploration of the outdoors. Be strong, be humble, and your possibilities are endless. 3439 Old Haleakalā Hwy., Makawao, 808-633-2328, AlphaMaui808@gmail.com, AlphaMaui808.com
Maui Coffee Roasters Keeping Maui caffeinated since 1981. We roast Maui coffee, Hawaiian coffee, and our blends daily in our eco-friendly, small-batch roaster to ensure the freshness of every roast. Taste the flavors of Hawai‘i in every freshly brewed cup. 444 Hāna Hwy, Kahului, 808-877-2877, MauiCoffeeRoasters. com
Sargent’s Fine Jewelry Make your Maui memories last forever with one of these stunning, 18k gold mini Lamello diamond pendants, representing our glistening ocean waves. We feature more than twenty-seven local artists, ensuring that you’ll find some of the most unique handmade jewelry in Hawai‘i. 802 Front Street, Lahaina, 808-667-2131, SargentsFineJewelry.com
Hawaii’s Heritage Jewelers As a father-and-daughter team with 40-plus years of experience, we handcraft traditional Hawaiian heirloom jewelry. We’re excited to share our family’s heritage in creating each of your custom pieces. 808-762-2510, Tyra@HawaiisHeritageJewelers.com, IG: @HawaiisHeritageJewelers, HawaiisHeritageJewelers.com
Studio 22k Studio22k is a gallery/studio of high-karat, 22k gold handmade jewelry. Sherri Dhyan, owner and in-house goldsmith, also showcases master jewelers of 22k gold. Dedicated to preserving ancient Mesopotamian techniques such as granulation, filigree, repoussé and chasing, and hand forging; some of these pieces are created in the gallery, made on Maui. 161B Hāna Hwy, Pā‘ia, 808-579-8167, Studio22k.com
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ADVERTORIAL
Designs By Shirley Hawai‘i Shirley Lecomte offers custom designs of personalized family heirlooms. Her signature “808” piece is available in 14K gold with diamonds, 14K gold, and sterling silver. Available at Sargent’s Fine Jewelry, 802 Front St., Lahaina, 808-276-3811, ShirleyLecomte@yahoo.com
Tutu’s Pantry Take a taste of Hawai‘i home! At Tutu’s Pantry you’ll find a large selection of made in Hawai‘i jams, sauces, seasonings, local honey, tea and more. All natural and made with locally sourced ingredients. Make sure to visit both locations at Kihei Kalama Village, and don’t forget to ask for samples. Open 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Kihei Kalama Village, 1941 S. Kīhei Road, Units C1 & D5, 808-874-6400, TutusPantry.com
Treehouse Designs Locally made on Maui’s north shore, all of our modern fabric bags and small-batch leather goods are thoughtfully designed and carefully crafted. Designer Shannon Peck’s recipe is simple: quality materials + honest work = a piece to be treasured. Stop by the pop-up shop every Monday and Friday at the Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, TreeHouseMade.com, 281-5693, IG: @Treehouse_Designs
Wings Hawaii Wings Hawaii is a brand rooted in mindfulness and eco-consciousness. Our collaged artwork is thoughtfully crafted in our Ha‘ikū studio—and no two pieces are the same. Visit our store for the full collection. 90 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 808-579-3110, Info@WingsHawaii.com, WingsHawaii.com
Maui Fruit Jewels Our recipe includes a generous portion of paradise. Maui Fruit Jewels is an artisan manufacturer of extraordinary confections— fruit jellies, fruit pastes, and shortbreads—made from Hawai‘i-grown fruits, wines, and spices. 808-419-8678, Info@MauiEpicure.com, MauiFruitJewels.com
A P O LY N E S I A N F E A S T & S H O W A musical and culinary journey to Hawai‘i, Aotearoa, Tahiti and Samoa.
AOTEAROA Land of the long white cloud, Aotearoa – New Zealand, is home to the Maori people.
SAMOA “The cradle of Polynesia,” literally the sacred center of its fiery soul.
HAWAI‘I We begin in our beautiful island home of Hawai‘i with our chants, songs and hula .
TAHITI The land of intrigue and romance, has beckoned explorers from around the world.
667-LELE (5353) • Toll-free: 1-866-244-5353 (LELE) 505 Front Street, Lahaina, Maui, Hawai‘i W W W. F EASTAT L EL E .COM
SHANOALEIGH MARSON
BEST OF MAUI
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First-birthday lū‘au
In Hawai‘i, a baby’s first birthday is a major celebration, dating back to eras when an infant’s survival wasn’t guaranteed. Get yourself invited and prepare to feast on traditional treats—pa‘i ‘ai (fresh pounded taro), ‘opihi (limpets) and ‘ōpae (freshwater shrimp)—and bomb down the inflatable castle’s slide.
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SHAKA LIST 2019
OPPOSITE: TAYLOR DARVAL; RIGHT: SHANOALEIGH MARSON
SHAKA [shah-kah] noun 1. Extension of thumb and pinkie to form a “Y”; 2. A gesture conveying a quintessential island greeting, a sign of friendly intent. S T O R Y B Y S H A N N O N W I A N E C K I
When Mark Twain traveled by steamer to Maui in 1866, he planned to stay a week—and remained five. “I never spent so pleasant a month before, or bade any place goodbye so regretfully,” he wrote afterward. Many of today’s visitors feel the same, though much has changed here since Twain’s time. People arrive by jet now, armed with apps and Internet advice. They stock up on sashimi platters and açai bowls at Costco before heading out to Ho‘okipa to snap Instagram stories of sea turtles napping on the sand. Maui’s true miracles remain untouched by progress. The moonlight still sparkles like quicksilver on the heaving surf at ‘Ukumehame. The Kahului bank tellers still greet customers with a trace of Pidgin and a heap of aloha. Haleakalā, the mighty, hollowed-out volcano that left America’s satirist speechless, still blushes deep rose at sunset and thrusts its unyielding shoulder against coming storms. In these pages you’ll find a few of the many things we cherish about our island home. Our annual Shaka List— wholly subjective and presented in no particular order—is simply our way of saying mahalo, thank you, to the people, places, and experiences that make Maui nō ka ‘oi (the best).
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Lineage’s housemade Spam musubi
Celebrity chef Sheldon Simeon remains a local boy at heart. Case in point: the house-made Spam musubi at Lineage, his restaurant in tony Wailea. Buggah stay ‘ono! (It’s delicious.)
MAUI ’OI »» NOV-DEC MAUI NŌ NŌ KA KA ‘OI NOV-DEC 2019 2019
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Hawaiian humpback whale nursery
Limu līpoa
Mama humpbacks seem to favor Maui waters; they migrate here each winter to birth and feed their calves. Researchers captured rare footage in January 2019: a newborn whale in the channel between Maui and Lāna‘i, just moments after its birth.
Locals in the know covet līpoa, the leafy, goldenbrown limu (seaweed) that once carpeted the Waikīkī seabed and filled the air with its scotch-like scent. Served fresh and raw or heavily salted, this tasty limu still grows in South Maui near the street bearing its name. Occasionally you can find it for sale at Takamiya Market.
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Lā ‘Ulu Festival
Maui Nui Botanical Gardens’ annual party celebrates ‘ulu, the Polynesian superfood. Festivalgoers sample ‘ulu (a.k.a. breadfruit) in every conceivable configuration: baked, roasted, fried, ground into pizza dough, or whipped into pie filling. After gorging on the nutritious and versatile staple, attendees enjoy music, play rounds of ‘ulu maika (breadfruit bowling), and buy baby breadfruit trees to plant at home. The free festivities move Maui a notch closer to self-sufficiency.
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Kū Mai Ka Hula
Maui’s version of the Merrie Monarch Festival features astonishing performances by hālau hula (hula troupes) from Japan and Hawai‘i. Held in September, the all-day event opens a rare window into the hallowed world of Hawaiian dance.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: FLIP NICKLIN-MINDEN PICTURES; COURTESY OF UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI‘I; COURTESY OF MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER; COURTESY OF MAUI NUI BOTANICAL GARDENS; OPPOSITE PAGE: SHANOALEIGH MARSON
SHAKA LIST 2019
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Lifeguards
They suss out potential dangers, educate beachgoers, and rush to the rescue along some of Maui’s most popular beaches. Luckily for us, their training goes beyond the United States Lifesaving Association’s certification requirements, and their skills are put to the test annually to ensure they’re up to the job. For these brave responders, a day at the beach is anything but a vacation, and they deserve our deepest aloha. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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Live music at Nalu’s South Shore Grill
SHANOALEIGH MARSON; OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ROBERT GALBRAITH / REUTERS; COURTESY OF BRUCE WHEELER; TAD CRAIG; COURTESY OF PADDLE IMUA
Award-winning singers like Amy Hānaiali‘i, her brother Eric Gilliom, and Barry Flanagan of Hapa perform weekly at this casual Kīhei grill. The menu is inexpensive and satisfying; the nightly concerts are outstanding and free.
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Paddle Imua
The stoke is strong when the armada of stand-up, outrigger, and prone paddlers launches into the water at Māliko Gulch for a thrilling downwind race. The annual event benefits Camp Imua, a weeklong summer camp for kids with special needs.
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SHAKA LIST 2019
Kurt Suzuki
In 2007, a Maui boy broke into the big leagues as a catcher for the Oakland Athletics. Today the Baldwin High School grad has a $10 million two-year contract, claims 129 career home runs, and wears a catcher’s vest that looks like a Marvel hero’s armor. Suzuki is a hero. Each January he coaches young Maui sluggers at his All Pono baseball clinic; he and wife Renee run a foundation focused on curing pediatric cancer; and they recently helped Puna residents recover after the Kīlauea eruption.
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Drag Races at Maui Raceway Park
If roaring engines and squealing tires are your jam, head to one of the country’s oldest drag racetracks, the Maui Raceway Park in Pu‘unēnē. New racers welcome—just bring your license, helmet, and a vehicle that can pass inspection. Saturday competitions start with Jr. Dragsters, followed by Motorcycle, Street, and Import classes. Spectators welcome. MRP.org
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Cycle to the Sun
Once a year, gonzo cyclists from around the globe come to Maui to put their mettle to the pedal. Maui Cyclery sponsors the mad twowheeled dash, thirty-six miles uphill, from sea level to the 10,023-foot summit of Haleakalā— a feat worthy of the demigod Maui. Entry fees benefit Pā‘ia Youth & Cultural Center. MAUI ’OI »» NOV-DEC MAUI NŌ NŌ KA KA ‘OI NOV-DEC 2019 2019
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SHAKA LIST 2019
13 Hale Pa‘i
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Maui Friends of the Library Bookstore
When the corporate bookstores came— then left—Central Maui, Maui Friends of the Library filled the void. Their volunteer-run store in the Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center is lovingly stocked with new, used, and out-of-print volumes. The Hawaiian section is pure gold. True bibliophiles can venture out to the original Pu‘unēnē location, a tinroofed shack where donated treasures go for twenty-five cents apiece.
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15 Kino lau
In Hawaiian tradition, certain plants, animals and weather patterns are actually the gods walking among us. Thunder, kukui trees, and all-black pigs are kino lau (physical manifestations) of Lono, the god of agriculture. This belief encourages reverence and aloha for the natural world.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF LAHAINA RESTORATION FOUNDATION; COURTESY OF SOLOMON ENOS; SHANOALEIGH MARSON; OPPOSITE PAGE: SHANOALEIGH MARSON
On February 14, 1834, the first newspaper west of the Rocky Mountains rolled off the press at Lahainaluna Seminary. Over the next century, the school published newspapers, literary classics, and even paper currency in a tiny coral-brick building. Now a museum and archive, Hale Pa‘i (print house) still shelters the original press.
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Public shoreline access
The best things in life are still free. By state law, the public may access any shoreline from the ocean up to the high-tide line—or as the law states rather elegantly, to the “upper reaches of the wash of the waves.” Hawai‘i’s beaches belong to us all.
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WHAT IS A HAWAIIAN EDUCATION? In 2019, MNKO has been exploring Hawaiian technology and science, from astronomy and ocean sciences, to architecture and medicine. In our last installment, we ask three maoli (native) educators to consider what it means to be an educated Hawaiian in the twentyfirst century—and why it matters.
Story by Teya Penniman | Photography by Mieko Horikoshi
hen ‘Ekela Kani‘aupio-Crozier’s grandmother was five years old, her teacher placed masking tape on her mouth to keep her from speaking her native tongue—the only language she knew. ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i, the Hawaiian language, was banned in schools; if she spoke, it had to be in English. “But she held onto the language for this one grandchild [out of forty-five] she knew was going to come,” says ‘Ekela. “She knew that what they took away was the most important part of us.” From ‘Ekela’s birth, her tūtū (grandmother) spoke to her only in Hawaiian, took her to church where services were conducted in Hawaiian, and somehow arranged for Hawaiian to be taught at her high school. As a teenager, ‘Ekela had her own ideas, and didn’t appreciate tūtū’s meddling—that is, until her grandmother finally shared her own story. While a student at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa, ‘Ekela helped form a hui (group) to restore an ancient lo‘i (taro patch) on campus. Skeptics asked, “Why would anybody spend their Saturdays cleaning out this overgrown place?” Today, “that lo‘i has its own line item in the [university’s] budget,” says ‘Ekela. “Thousands of students and community members have volunteered 56
MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
Two generations ago, her grandmother was punished for speaking Hawaiian. Today, ‘Ekela Kani‘aupio-Crozier is helping Kamehameha Schools to deepen its commitment to the islands’ first culture.
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PA RT O F A 5 - PA RT S E R I E S O N H AWA I I A N T EC H N O LO GY & SC I E N C E
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there. Science, biology, social sciences, language arts—all exist in aloha ‘āina [love of the land], which is the foundation of our education. “As the Hawaiian Renaissance took hold, people started to realize that speaking Hawaiian was not going to be just a fad, but a true means to communicate who we are. That’s what language does— it answers all these questions of why we do what we do, think the way we think, and believe what we believe. Hawaiian education is not just about ‘head’ knowledge, it’s also about your na‘au,” what’s known as the body’s core in western culture, but which in Hawaiian culture is the seat of thought, intellect and emotions. These days, ‘Ekela serves as designer and facilitator of E Ola! Learning Outcomes at Kamehameha Schools Maui. This initiative places new emphasis on Hawaiian-based cultural education for the school established more than 150 years ago by Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, a great-granddaughter of King Kamehameha I. Pauahi had witnessed the dramatic decline of the Hawaiian population. Believing in the power of education to offer Hawaiian keiki a better future, she bequeathed her estate to found Kamehameha Schools. But the school didn’t mandate instruction in the Hawaiian language, nor emphasize Hawaiian culture, until recent years. Today, says ‘Ekela, “Everyone who works here—teachers, the janitor, the web guy, the food-service people—is required to learn Hawaiian. The goal is to be a vibrant lāhui [nation, race].” And she sees progress elsewhere, as well, citing the formation of a collaborative network of more than fifty Hawaiian schools and organizations, and the recent addition (which ‘Ekela helped bring to fruition) of Hawaiian to the online Duolingo app as evidence of a worldwide interest in the language. She has a message for critics who say the language exists only within the classroom walls: “Our village is larger than it used to be.” During a recent visit to Costco, the 58
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checker asked whether she had found everything she was looking for. ‘Ekela turned to her husband and said, in Hawaiian, “They ask same question every time and I always get the same answer.” To her surprise, the checker responded, “He aha ka nīnau.” (“I have a question.”) They carried on the rest of their conversation in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i. And at Mama’s Fish House, the valet, hostess, and bartender were all fluent speakers. “We’re everywhere,” ‘Ekela says.
“A
Hawaiian education starts in the home,” says renowned kumu hula (hula teacher) Hōkūlani Holt. Currently, she’s the director of Ka Hikina O Ka Lā, a Hawaiian student scholarship program at the University of Hawai‘i Maui College (UHMC), but her commitment to teaching, promoting, and perpetuating the Hawaiian culture is legendary. This sepia portrait of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop hangs in the administrative office of the school she bequeathed her fortune to create. Its presence is a reminder of the value Hawaiians have always placed on education—increasingly on their own terms. Below, a stained-glass mural by Hawai‘i Island artist Calley O’Neill turns a wall at Pukalani Elementary School into a lesson on the interconnectedness of the natural world and our place within it. Students helped construct the mural’s mosaic border. The map of Maui at left depicts the island’s ancient moku (land divisions). Hawaiian educator Pulama Collier served as the model for the figure at right—Lilinoe, mountain goddess of mist and other water forms.
Asked what it means to be an educated Hawaiian today, Hōkūlani says, “It’s about being a Hawaiian as much as it’s [about] being educated in the Western world.” She explains that being educated in the culture is reflected in how one behaves. “On entering a home, you first look for and greet the kūpuna [elders], then the mother, then everyone else.” She asks, “Do you only take your children to movies, to baseball games? Or do you take them fishing and surfing and to Hawaiian cultural events? Those all impact how [children] view their world.” Thirty-five years ago, Hōkūlani helped launch the Hawaiian-language immersion preschool Punana Leo O Maui, just in time for her youngest child to attend. Hawaiian is the only language spoken in the classroom (punana leo means “nest of voices”), and lessons are culturally based. The school requires a lot of parental involvement, including the expectation that parents will learn some Hawaiian; those already fluent in the language are asked to teach it or contribute in other ways. And every year, Punana Leo’s waiting list is more than twice its thirty-student capacity. “It is a challenge,” Hōkūlani agrees, “but the challenge is worth it. We cannot expect to trot out our children and say, ‘Talk to this lady in Hawaiian,’ because we think it’s cute. ‘Oh, look, your auntie is here. Say something in Hawaiian to her.’ No. For [the language] to live, it must live in the family.” Hōkūlani acknowledges that some parents fear a Hawaiian-language im-
Hōkūlani Holt helped launch Maui’s Hawaiian language preschool. Every year, Punana Leo’s waiting list is more than twice its enrollment capacity.
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For Pulama Collier, learning ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i “was like seeing the world in colors for the first time.”
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‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i: A Timeline “The gradual extinction of a Polynesian dialect may be regretted for sentimental reasons, but it is certainly for the interest of the Hawaiians themselves.” —Bureau of Public Instruction of the Republic of Hawai‘i (1895)
mersion school won’t adequately prepare their children for the future. She disagrees. Youngsters there “get the same education as any child in the State of Hawai‘i, because they are in a state school. But added onto that education is Hawaiian. Nothing is subtracted.” She cites as example a protocol practiced at Kula Kaiapuni, the state’s Hawaiian-language immersion program offered on Maui at Pā‘ia Elementary, Kalama Intermediate, and King Kekaulike High School. “Every morning, the children line up outside the school and chant to request permission to enter school. And their teachers will stand there and grant them permission to enter. We want our children to know that school is important, that learning is a privilege, and you need to ask permission of your teachers to be able to do that. Asking permission is a very Hawaiian thing. “If you think learning Hawaiian will be a detriment, don’t send [your children]. If you think it can help them know how to live well in this place we have chosen, this place we call home, and get as much or more out of their education as any other child in the public school system, Hawaiian language immersion is a possibility.” After Punana Leo, Hōkūlani’s daughter attended the Kula Kaiapuni immersion program; she was in the first graduating class at King Kekaulike. Hōkūlani’s vision has come full circle: After earning an M.A. in social work and a Ph.D. in education, her daughter is currently working on a second Ph.D. in indigenous curriculum, and teaches Hawaiian studies at UHMC.
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all it divine intervention. Pulama Collier does. She was standing in line as a college freshman at UH Mānoa, ready to sign up for a Spanish class, when a gust of wind blew the class schedule out of her hands. When she picked it up, her eyes were drawn to the words “Hawaiian language.” The class was offered at exactly the same time as Spanish. “I didn’t think you could go somewhere and learn Hawaiian! “You had to take hula to be a ‘proper’ Hawaiian child,” Pulama says, yet she grew up not knowing the language. Al-
1893
Overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy
1896
Hawaiian language is banned as a medium of instruction in public and private schools.
Four generations pass.
1978
Hawaiian becomes an official language of the state.
1983
Fewer than fifty children under the age of eighteen speak Hawaiian.
1986
State Legislature allows Hawaiian as a language of instruction in public schools.
1984
First Punana Leo preschool opens on Kaua‘i.
1987
Punana Leo O Maui opens in Wailuku. First Hawaiian elementary school opens on Hawai‘i Island.
1996
More than 1,700 children are enrolled in Hawaiianlanguage preschool and K–6 classes, and 1,800 students study Hawaiian in public high schools.
2015
Survey reports more than 18,000 people speak Hawaiian at home.
2001
Maui graduates its first senior immersion class from King Kekaulike High School.
2019
Statewide, twelve preschools and twenty-four public and charter schools offer instruction in Hawaiian.
though her father was a native speaker, Hawaiian wasn’t the language of conversation in the home. She says that in her first year of ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i, “things became very clear to me—how I was raised, the traditions I was taught by my father, the words he would use . . . the songs we would sing. A flood of voices started to come forth, connections of ‘aumākua, our ancestors that come before us. It was like seeing the world in colors for the first time.” As her proficiency grew, she was able to ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i with her father. After she became a teacher at the Pā‘ia immersion school, she brought him, as a kupuna, to her classroom. Like ‘Ekela and Hōkūlani, Pulama has been a trailblazer, teaching on campuses across the island, from preschool to college, and in community adult education. Today she serves as Hawaiian resource teacher in the Kula Kaiapuni program at King Kekaulike High School. She sees the evolution in Hawaiian education as more than just a growth in the number of schools and students. “I became [an immersion] teacher at Pā‘ia Elementary because I had a Hawaiianlanguage degree,” even though she felt unprepared. She says the quality of instruction she received was high, but the practice time was not what it is for today’s students. “After four years, they’re busting out those higher-level sentence patterns that took me years to learn. They’re more proficient in the range of the Hawaiian language, from classical to colloquial. It’s a beautiful thing.” What empowers and inspires Hawaiian educators? “There are certain things we hear a lot: kuleana [responsibility], the kūpuna intelligence, ancestral DNA . . . .” And then she says, “I have Hawaiian eyes. As a Hawaiian educator, a big goal for me is that my students see the world with Hawaiian eyes. “It’s not how many hula you have to learn, it’s your na‘au; it’s how you sit with another and how you make them feel, and how they make you feel. If you feel the aloha and the blessing, you’re doing a Hawaiian thing.” MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY CODY ROBERTS
CAN REBUILDING THE ECOSYSTEM BRING THEM BACK?
ESTORING THE FORES HABITAT LOSS IS THREATENING MAUI’S RARE ENDEMIC BIRDS.
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he first rays of dawn have yet to illuminate the Olinda forest above Makawao town. It’s 5:15, and the crisp mountain air revives our senses as we gather outside the headquarters of the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project. Nine of us, four project leaders and five volunteers, are poised to embark on a mission to help restore a native Hawaiian forest and prepare a supportive habitat for the imminent release of kiwikiu (Maui parrotbills) into the Nakula Natural Area Reserve. Over the next five days, we will become like family, living and working together in the wilderness. One of our guides, Christopher Warren, explains that the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project was created “to stop the extinction of Maui’s honeycreepers,” kiwikiu among them. And none too soon. Hawai‘i once had more than fifty species of honeycreepers. Today, Chris says, “even in the most intact forests on Maui, there are only six species of Hawaiian honeycreepers left. The birds we have now are only a small part of what was once here.” (Fewer than 300 kiwikiu are estimated to exist in the wild, mainly inhabiting the wet ‘ōhi‘a forests at high elevations in windward East Maui.) Chris and leaders Laura Berthold, K.J. Passaro, and Kristi Fukunaga help the rest of us load our packs—stuffed with nearly a week’s worth of clothing, food, hiking gear, tools and equipment—into their two waiting trucks, and we’re off. We traverse Kula Highway as it snakes upcountry past Kēōkea and ‘Ulupalakua, then descends the leeward southeastern slopes of Haleakalā into Kaupō, where a helicopter will transport us to our base camp, nearly 5,000 feet above sea level. During our stay, we will plant more than 1,000 specimens of native flora, including ‘ōhi‘a and koa (dominant trees in the Hawaiian forest canopy), along with understory trees and shrubs like māmane, pilo, a‘ali‘i and NATIVE BIRDS like the rare kanawao. This symbiotic collection of plants kiwikiu above creates ideal habitat for kiwikiu and several othonce thrived on the wild, wooded er indigenous birds. The benefits of a vital native slopes of Hawai‘i’s forest extend to humans, as well. As the clouds volcanoes, amid old-growth stands sweep across the mountain, moisture collects of ‘ōhi‘a and koa— on the trees and trickles slowly down to the forwhose own numbers have est floor, filtering through layers of lava rock and diminished augmenting the watershed, providing the cleanprecipitously over time. At Nakula est, most efficient and renewable source of fresh Natural Area water in the islands. Reserve, the Maui Forest Bird Many species in this native ecosystem are Recovery Project also endemic, meaning they exist nowhere else hopes to reverse the devastation on Earth. Carried here by wind, wings and water, wrought by two plants and animals have adapted over eons to centuries of invasive introduced species. thrive interdependently, transforming the islands’ MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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MISSION IMPERATIVE
Andy (top left) drills holes for seedling trees like the ‘ōhi‘a Meghane plants at lower right. K.J. (top right) prepares to hook equipment to the helicopter that is our sole transport to and from camp. At lower left, a Nakula sunrise—one of the perks that make all the work worthwhile. Opposite: K.J., Meghan and Dan relax at base camp, elevation 5,000 feet. Everything here has been flown in and assembled, from the propane stove to a catchment tank that supplies running water to an indoor sink. A propane water heater provides hot—but trickling—showers, and staff have furnished us with tents, boots, rain gear, sleeping bags, hiking poles, and home-cooked dinners, all the resources for a temporary home in the wilderness.
raw landscapes of desolate lava into lush forest. However, more than a century of damage by introduced species has devastated these leeward forests: Cattle, goats and deer overgraze the slopes. Pigs rototill the soil, creating fertile ground for invasive plants that outcompete natives. Rats, mongooses and feral cats devastate native bird populations by preying on their eggs. Conservation groups like the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project are committed to stopping that trend. We arrive at the launch site just as the sun rises over the ocean to greet us, and quickly work to secure sling nets and cables around our equipment. Moments later, a distant chuffing sound announces the approaching chopper. I feel my adrenaline surge as the pilot eases into a soft landing, and I watch the first three members of our team board the aircraft and lift off toward the mountain. Within minutes, the helicopter zips back to claim our gear; after several delivery runs to and from our camp, it’s time for the rest of us to fly. Soaring up these slopes is a thrilling adventure, offering sweeping views of Haleakalā and its volcanic terrain. We catch a bird’s-eye glimpse of Nakula and her recovering native forest moments before we touch down at base camp. The realization hits me that we’re isolated in this wilderness for the next five days, with no electricity, modern plumbing, soft beds, or immediate access to resources other than the essentials we’ve brought with us. That, and the skills and knowledge of our team: Chris is the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project’s res64
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A KOA TREE
stands alone in the mist, a poignant reminder of what has been lost here, and what could return, given time and protection. Opposite, our ad hoc Team Kiwikiu poses in rain gear against the chilly mountain mist. From left: Chris Warren, Laura Berthold, K.J. Passaro (standing), volunteers Dan, Andy, Meghane (standing) and Nora, and MFBRP intern Kristi Fukunaga
The Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project and the East Maui Watershed Partnership furnish these sobering facts: • Hawai‘i has the highest percentage of endangered native species in the United States. • More than 90 percent of plants native to Hawai‘i are endemic—they exist nowhere else on Earth. • Approximately thirty new plant species arrive in Hawai‘i annually, and many of them pose threats to the islands’ natural ecosystems.
toration and data-management technician. Laura specializes in ornithological research and serves as this grassroots organization’s outreach and logistics technician. “I came here to intern for ten months, and here I am now ten years later,” she smiles. “All of us have degrees and experience in environmental science, biology, etc.” K.J. was an intern before joining the staff; the project’s newest intern, Kristi, previously worked with the Institute for Bird Populations in American Samoa. Our volunteers’ skills are no less impressive. Andy is a retired pediatrician. (Having a doctor on our team is a bonus!) My partner, Meghane, is an herbalist with a growing knowledge of native-plant properties and wild foraging. Nora works for the Pacific Whale Foundation, Dan for Skyline Eco Tours; with their employers’ encouragement, both have participated in numerous conservation efforts. Ahh, the great outdoors: sweeping views and ocean breezes nearly everywhere we venture; melodic bird songs from native ‘apapane and ‘amakihi; and some of the most immense native trees on Maui. The crimson lehua blossoms of ‘ōhi‘a trees punctuate the verdant landscape, bursting in vibrant canopies as mythological reminders of enduring passion. (According to Hawaiian legend, the volcano goddess Pele transformed the warrior ‘Ōhi‘a into a gnarled tree when he refused to marry her; the other gods then took pity on his lover, Lehua, transforming her into a flower so the pair could remain together for eternity.) As tempted as I am to lose myself in these surroundings, we’ve come to work—eight to ten hours a day. Over breakfast, we plan each day’s assignments, divide into teams, then pack our lunches, rain gear, tools, and plenty of water before hiking to designated areas of the reserve to complete our tasks. Thankfully, the helicopter has transported all the materials and equipment to our worksites. Navigating through gulches and steep terrain adds a formidable challenge to each project. On our first day, Andy, Dan, K.J. and I construct one of nine platforms that will host aviaries for the MFBRP’s kiwikiu release. Meghane and Chris chart growth and survival rates of nascent tree plots the organization has planted over the past six years, and Laura guides Nora and Kristi across the reserve to reset small traps that help eradicate rats and mongooses. (In
2012, the Hawai‘i Department of • Nonnative (introduced) rats, mongooses, and Land & Natural Resources fenced free-ranging cats this 170-hectare section of the jeopardize biodiversity Nakula Natural Area Reserve by preying on recovering and removed all ungulates, but bird populations and smaller pests remain a destruccompeting for vital resources. tive presence.) Over the course of our stay, • With the onset of we plant trees and continue Rapid Ōhi‘a Death predator control and forest data (a phenomenon caused by a fungal pathogen collection. At the end of each previously unknown to satisfying-yet-arduous day, the science) over the past rudimentary shower feels like an few years, Hawai’i’s absolute luxury. Evenings find evmost culturally and eryone relaxing at camp, sharing ecologically significant dinner and talking story as dusk tree populations are threatened with approaches. On our final night, a extinction within the sunset erupts like a living paintcoming decade. ing across the sky. Around 5:30 the next mornThe Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project is ing, I step outside my tent and one of several local see nimbostratus clouds drifting organizations dedicated through the forest. The immento undoing the harm. sity of Haleakalā seems to exert To learn more about its own gravitational pull on the its efforts and the native species it’s elemental forces manifesting on working to save, visit its isolated slopes. Everyone is MauiForestBirds.org. awake, packing and cleaning up camp to prepare for the helicopter’s return. Before we head back to civilization, the clouds part to reveal what becomes my favorite sunrise of the trip. Nakula has a beautiful way of saying goodbye. Back in the world of concrete and paychecks, I contemplate the five days of conscious collaboration that enabled our team to experience not only the rare beauty of a native Hawaiian forest, but also a deep sense of community and shared purpose. I feel a new connection to this ‘āina (land), and am determined to share this awareness of planetary responsibility. Chris Warren’s words remain with me: “It’s exciting to see what this place will be in the next five years, and ten years after that. It will be a full-fledged forest by then.” MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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Kevin Kisner
GREGORY SHAMUS/GETTY IMAGES SPORT
plays his shot from the 11th tee during the first round of the 2018 Sentry Tournament of Champions.
THEY ARE the
CHAMPIONS Golf royalty returns to Kapalua at the Sentry Tournament of Champions. STORY BY KYLE ELLISON
ou know that phrase you hear in sports? The one that goes, “Everyone is a winner”? This January, Kapalua will host an event where the saying is literally true—the Sentry Tournament of Champions is open only to golfers who have won a PGA Tour event the previous year. Lee Trevino, Jack Nicklaus, Gary Player, Jim Furyk, Phil Mickelson and Lanny Wadkins are among the greats who have played and won the Tournament of Champions. More recent winners include Jordan Spieth, Patrick Reed, Justin Thomas, Zach Johnson, Steve Stricker and Jonathan Byrd. There have been unforgettable moments, like the monster drive Dustin Johnson hammered in 2018. After teeing off on the par four 12th, Johnson watched the ball take a friendly bounce, and then roll downhill to within inches of the cup. The distance? 430 yards. And even though it happened nearly twenty years ago, golf fans still talk about the forty-foot putt that Tiger Woods sank on the second hole of a playoff to snatch away victory from Ernie Els—though Els still holds the tournament record with his 31 under par, made in 2003. It’s not just hosting top players that distinguishes the Sentry Tournament of Champions. The winners-only roster ensures an intimate, elite field. Most stops on the PGA Tour have about 150 golfers, but just 30 golfers—maybe 35—compete for the money on Maui. Alex Urban, the tournament’s executive director, notes the opportunities for interaction the players have with the public. “You can really see these guys up close, [compared] to other PGA Tour events.” It’s a treat for residents and visitors alike, as they line the MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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WHERE TO CATCH THE ACTION
fairways for the chance to see golfers shoot eagles where most would make bogey. (In 2016, they watched superstar Jordan Spieth shoot a staggering -30, and in 2018 saw Xander Schauffele shoot 61 in a flawless final to win the event by one stroke.) The welcoming atmosphere extends to fans, in part, because the tournament falls right after New Year’s, and many of the golfers’ families arrive early to spend the holidays on Maui. One player, Graeme McDowell, will be celebrating another event—his caddie’s fiftieth birthday—so he, like many of the other qualifiers, will be arriving early to celebrate and relax before shifting his focus back to golf. That said, there’s money on the line, so “once Thursday kicks off,” Urban says, the players “are still as competitive as any other week of the year.” This year’s winner will take home over $1.3 million, but that pales in comparison to the $6.6 million the tournament has contributed to island charities over the course of its tenure on Maui. Stephanie Smith, the chief marketing and brand officer for title sponsor Sentry, says the business-insurance company “feels a kinship with Maui, a place where people care about family. Being a big company from a small town [Sentry is based in Wisconsin], community is really important to us.” 70
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The Plantation Course recently underwent a nearly yearlong renovation, changing bunkers, resurfacing greens, and softening many of the slopes. The result is a course that could be even more challenging than in previous years; celebrity pros like Justin Thompson and Rickie Fowler are set to make appearances this year and put the course to the test. And then there are the trade winds. Adam Long, a PGA Tour rookie who will be playing in his first Tournament of Champions, says it’s putting, not driving, that can be tough in the wind. He’ll concentrate on keeping the ball low on days
when the trade winds are gusting. His other strategy is simply to stay focused; he’ll arrive early with his family for a bit of a winter vacation. “It’s a dream come true,” he says of qualifying for this year’s Sentry Tournament of Champions. “If you’d told me a year ago I’d be in this position, I would have called you a liar.” And as for the breaching humpback whales he’s heard you can see from the tee box? “That’s like stuff right out of a movie,” he says. “What a great place to start the year.”
BOTTOM: GREGORY SHAMUS/GETTY IMAGES SPORT; TOP: STAN BADZ/PGA TOUR
The Sentry Tournament of Champions takes place January 1–5 at Kapalua’s Plantation Course, with a wide range of ticket packages—including the tented Banyan Club on the 8th hole, starting at $90. Or go luxe in the Aloha Club Skybox on the 18th hole, with premium refreshments and other perks, $1,150 per ticket, good Thursday—Sunday. Hawai‘i residents can enjoy a kama‘āina “good any one day” rate of $30; and the tournament is proud to offer free admission to active, retired, and reserve U.S. military members and their dependents. For more information on tickets, and ways to volunteer, visit SentryTournamentOfChampions.com. Can’t attend in person? Follow the action on the GOLF channel, which will broadcast all four rounds.
Patrick Cantlay
JOE WEST PHOTOGRAPHY
(left) shoots from the 13th tee in his first appearance at the tournament in 2018. Top left: Fans catch the action on the 1st hole during the final round of the 2019 event. This page: The biggest hazard on the 18th hole of the Plantation Course just might be its breathtaking view. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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A WAILUKU APARTMENT GETS A MODERN MAKEOVER— AND IT’S JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED STORY BY SARAH RUPPENTHAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY T R AV I S R O WA N
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hen Tim Tattersall and Errol Buntuyan found a temporary crash pad in downtown Wailuku, they had no idea their dream home was just around the corner. Literally. Tim, an interior designer, and Errol, a family-medicine practitioner, moved to Maui from the leafy suburbs of Connecticut twelve years ago and bought a 2,600-square-foot, three-bedroom home on a secluded two-acre lot in a remote part of Ha‘ikū. But living off the
Lofty
Pursuit A pair of reupholstered, 1950s swivel armchairs, a stylish chaise sofa, and zebrawood coffee table bring relaxed coziness to the living room’s sophisticated tone. Above the sofa is an enlarged iPhone photo Errol snapped while vacationing in Tulum, Mexico.
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It was meant to be interim digs. Then opportunity knocked.
beaten path soon proved challenging for Errol, whose daily commute to Kaiser Permanente’s Kīhei clinic (an hour-long drive each way—if traffic cooperates) became increasingly grueling. The couple eventually decided to sell the property and rent an oceanfront condo not far from Errol’s workplace. But in 2017, he began racking up commuter miles once again when he stepped into the role of family-medicine physician leader at Kaiser Permanente’s Maui Lani Medical Office in Wailuku. (He is now chief of operations for all of Kaiser
Permanente’s Maui clinics.) So when one of his colleagues suggested he contact the owner of a seldom-used crash pad less than a mile away from the Maui Lani facility, Errol was instantly intrigued. He was already familiar with the six-story structure (tall by Central Maui’s standards) looming over the town’s bustling Main Street— he’d passed by it countless times, and like so many others, assumed it was a commercial building. He was half-right: the first four floors are filled with offices, and the top two comprise eleven
Opposite: Tim likes the chameleon effect of designer Philippe Starck’s clear Louis Ghost chairs, which circle an oval dining table. The flumewood wall serves as backdrop for art and accent pieces. Above: Tim kept the kitchen’s original configuration, including the thirtythree-inch-tall range built for the petite previous owner. At five-foot-eleven, Errol says the lowerthan-average height gives him a better view of what’s cooking on the stovetop. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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Lights and window shades can be remotely controlled— even from thousands of miles away.
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Maui
TRANSFORM & TRANSCEND Opposite: With its minimal décor and dark walls, the master bedroom was designed with snoozing in mind.
residences, including the then-vacant fifth-floor loft apartment. It was meant to be a short-term arrangement to give them time to plan their next move, but Errol and Tim quickly grew fond of their interim digs. Apart from its ideal location, the pouredcement building stays mercifully cool year-round and its upper floors capture coastal breezes (and some unbeatable views). After only a few days, Tim says, “We both said we could see ourselves living here long term.” And then opportunity knocked.
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Top: A hand-carved teak partition is an intricate focal point in the master bathroom. Sleek black tile contrasts beautifully with the bright white sink and light-gray porcelain tile floor. Above: Tim gave the guest bathroom a contemporary update with gray porcelain wall tiles, black Brizo fixtures, a custom wood vanity, integrated sink, and nearly invisible walk-in shower.
Tim was installing shelves in a closet one afternoon when he heard a soft rap on the front door. He opened it to find the next-door neighbor, who cheerfully introduced herself and invited him to take a peek at her apartment. The moment Tim stepped inside, his designer’s instinct kicked in. Built in 1992, the 1,460-square-foot, two-bedroom, twobath corner unit had plenty of charm, but its outdated look set his right brain in motion. “I could see the potential,” he says. 78
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When Tim and Errol learned it was for sale, they wasted no time making an offer. They purchased the apartment in November of 2017, and not long after, embarked on a down-to-the-studs renovation. They were still living next door, so Tim planned and oversaw the project from a few feet away (an enviably short commute); he debuted the finished product four months later. The result? A decidedly masculine vibe. Clean lines throughout. And a modern aesthetic that is anything but cold. “I’ve designed several modern yet 80
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warm homes for clients, and we jointly decided that it was the look and feel we wanted for our next home,” Tim explains. “Our last home was a slight bent on traditional Hawaiiana, and we were open for change.” The Zen-inspired loft now evokes a feeling of calm and oozes sophistication. In the living room, walls are painted a dramatic yet soothing shade of charcoal, a striking contrast to the white soffit ceilings (for which Tim chose a reflective semigloss finish to amplify light) and light-gray porcelain tile floors. On
Opposite: In the den-slash-office, a tall koa-wood desk is strategically positioned beneath a window that frames the dramatic seascape.
the south-facing wall, salvaged flume wood runs floor to ceiling and brings an extra dose of warmth. Errol, who loves to cook, lobbied to keep the kitchen’s original layout, along with its custom SieMatic cabinetry and professional-grade appliances. Tim did make a few adjustments, though, including swapping out the old tile backsplash and countertops for sleek Caesarstone, replacing silver hardware with black, and installing a new sink with a touchless faucet. What was once the master bedroom is now a den-slash-office with an en suite
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bathroom; the smaller of the two bedrooms became the master. It’s not the first time they’ve switched things up. “In the first home we purchased together, we turned the master bedroom into the den because it was on the street, and had the quieter space in the back of the house as the master,” Tim says. “The back bedroom was small and had only enough room for our four-poster bed, but we ended up loving it. We decided to reenact that here.” The shut-eye-friendly space is painted a deep purple, and the master bath and walk-in closet are across the hall; Tim says that’s how they prefer it. “It allows whoever [is] asleep in the master to not hear the rustlings of the person in the bathroom or getting clothes from the closet,” he explains. Tim had the connecting hallway widened by nearly a foot, and added recessed, LED-illuminated, custom walnut shelves along one wall. The guest bathroom received a top-to-bottom makeover, along with a utility room that houses the loft’s “brain”: a state-of-theart home automation system. “We like smart living,” Tim says. So much so, in fact, that he had the apartment fully rewired to be a smart home. Every light and window shade is voice-activated and can be monitored and controlled remotely from an iPhone, iPad, or laptop—even from thousands of miles away. And lights are everywhere, from a sculptural chandelier to elegant wall sconces to motion-sensing switches in the bathrooms and walk-in closet. Conspicuously absent are doorknobs; Tim prefers the ease and contemporary look of magnetic door pulls. As for the television? It is cleverly tucked away in a custom motorized lift cabinet, so that the eye is drawn, instead, to the meticulously curated collection of artwork and vintage and modern furniture. Equal parts cozy and convenient, the newly renovated loft is a perfect fit for the family of three: Tim, Errol, and their playful Havanese puppy, Koa. And they won’t soon forget the serendipitous chain of events that led them there. “We were in the right place at the right time,” Errol says. “And now we are exactly where we want to be.” 82
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DINING
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MUSHROOM MAN
Charles Tresidder holds a softballsized lion’s mane and an armful of oyster mushrooms. Opposite: White lion’s mane and pink oyster mushrooms are just two of the varieties he grows in his lab. Oyster mushrooms (lower right) colonize on stumps and decomposing wood. Find Lapa‘au Farm mushrooms at the Wednesday Farmers Market at Waipuna Chapel, 17 Ōma‘opio Rd., Kula; Saturdays at Lipoa Street Farmer’s Market, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei; and any time at Mana Foods, 49 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia.
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CULTURED FELLOW BECKY’S BACKYARD
Mycologist Charles Tresidder logs a lot of time around mushrooms. What he’s learned will surprise you. Story by BECKY SPEERE
Photography by
he email came from the Hāna chapter of Hawai‘i Farmers Union United: “Mushroom Log Inoculation Workshop.” I quickly signed up. Weeks later, I was one of thirty HFUU members squeezed into the work shed at Hana Tropicals Oasis with Charles Tresidder, owner of Nō Ka ‘Oi Mushrooms, ready to drill holes into banyan logs and inject them with sawdust that had been inoculated with fungal culture. We worked like bumblebees, drilling and filling for two hours. “In a few months,” Charles told us, “when the bark starts to separate from the wood, drop it onto the ground to imitate a falling branch.” Huh? “What initiates fruiting is a physical disturbance, or a heavy soaking,” he explained. A spore colony growing on a rotting branch “knows” that when the branch becomes brittle and falls, there’s a short window before insects invade; the colony must reproduce before being consumed. Today I’m in Charles’s Upcountry lab, watching him gesture toward petri dishes housed in incubators. The shallow, clearglass vessels contain a moldy growth that—to put it nicely— looks like food gone bad. Charles says, “When I was eleven, I was a bit of a troublemaker, so my stepdad, a chemist, decided to reel me in. He took me into his lab and taught me about mushroom spores and tissue cultures.” Charles eventually took a job in a Wisconsin kombucha plant, growing SCOBY, a “symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast” also called tea mushroom, tea fungus, or Manchurian mushroom—though it isn’t actually a fungus. In 2017 he moved to Maui and set up a mycology lab. His fascination is understandable. Dormant mushroom spores can survive hostile conditions indefinitely. Activated, they multiply by the millions—in the right setting. Charles’s lab is a positive-pressure environment: air pressure is greater inside than out, so no unwanted microbe can enter. “You have to provide food for the [spores] with no bacterial contaminants,” he explains, also stressing the need for a stable electrical source to maintain constant humidity and temperature. Reanimated, “a spore is still only one part of what is nec-
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essary to make a living fungi,” says Charles. “[It] contributes only a fraction of the genetic code, in the same way we humans need a copy of genes from both parents. Once two or more spores unite, a fungus begins to form; this is the official beginning of its life. If I inoculate a fertile substrate with the spores, cultures will form, and I’ll be able to get live clones. Depending on the variety, they won’t die for weeks or months after [being] brought out of refrigeration. But they do have an expiration date.” We walk into the “cooking room,” where industrialsized stainless-steel pressure cookers line up like miniature spacecraft awaiting takeoff. “I have to sterilize the [untreated] sawdust before inoculation,” Charles explains. “I finally found a local source for sawdust; my goal is to make 200 logs a month.” My eyes widen. “That’s a lot of mushrooms!” He tells me about his latest business venture with Lapa‘au Farm in Olinda: a new 4,000-square-foot mushroom-fruiting room he’s building with friend and business partner Michael Marchand. Next to his lab, an enclosed area provides the filtered light and cool-evening and warm-day temperatures needed to grow fungi in bags sealed to retain the substrate’s moisture. They’re labeled: lion’s mane, oyster, reishi, shiitake. . . . Charles hands me a bag and says, “Try this shiitake. I think you may do well growing it in Huelo. Also try this reishi. China grows the bulk of our reishi imports in a similar environment to where you live.” I am stoked beyond words—mushroom’s got my tongue! I head home to try growing mushrooms. Three months later, my science project is a success! I grow three pounds of shiitake and a pound and a half of reishi. The shiitake tastes fresh and lacks the strong flavor that dry mushrooms exhibit. I dehydrate the reishi for teas and kombucha mixes.
Find Maui-grown Lapa‘au Farm mushrooms at the Wednesday Farmers Market at Waipuna Chapel, 17 ‘Ōma‘opio Rd., Kula; Saturdays at the Upcountry Farmers Market next to Longs Drugs, 55 Kiopa‘a St., Pukalani; and Lipoa Street Farmer’s Market, 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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Moku Roots’ Nick Stowell adds seasonings to her mushroom marinade. The vegan chef stresses their importance for creating full flavors, and encourages using fresh herbs and spices whenever possible.
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very year, MNKO invites an award-winning chef Nick says, “Since I’m [relatively] new to the island, there are to direct our staff in a holiday test kitchen and share the recipes many ingredients that I’ve never seen before. I take it all. I don’t as a gift to our readers. It’s a gift to us, too—the opportunity know what it is, but I’ll use it in a special dish or sauce.” to learn from a pro and feast on the results. We’ve conducted She asks, “Who wants to help with the Wellington?” Diane this tradition for the better part of a decade, but this time we’re steps up and receives a demonstration on gently separating the trying something new. leaves of phyllo dough. “I’ve eaten phyllo, but have never made “I’d like to suggest a vegan test kitchen,” says Michael Haynes, anything with it,” she admits, as she slowly peels apart a tissueMNKO’s vice-president of operations. He explains that Kathryn, thin sheet and holds it gingerly in the air. “You don’t have to his lovely wife, is mostly vegan. “It would be great to have a few be so careful about tearing it, because you’ll have twenty layers. special dishes that she could make and bring to a party.” Throw it down and spread our vegan butter on each layer,” says A light bulb goes on in my head: Moku Roots, winner of three Nick, gesturing at the baking sheet nearby. She says that in 2019 ‘Aipono Awards, including culinary school in Washington Silver for Best New Restaurant State, students learned to make and Best Farm-to-table Cuisine. phyllo by rolling the dough When I mention the name, a in a laminator to reach the giant smile lights up Mike’s face. proper thinness. “This is one “It’s our favorite restaurant in of the few products we don’t Lahaina!” Done and done. make at Moku Roots. We don’t Two weeks later we arrive at have a laminator.” Seeing Rita’s the Launiupoko home of Alexa puzzled expression, I explain: Caskey, co-owner, with Erica “Laminators are like manual Gale, of Moku Roots. “Welcome, pasta rollers, except they are aunty. Hi, brother,” says Chef motorized and go forward Nick Stowell as we enter the open and reverse. With each pass kitchen where we’ll assist (a little) between the rollers, the dough’s and learn (a lot) about vegan food thickness decreases.” STO RY BY B EC K Y S P E E R E and nutrition from these three Alexa tells us that about 90 P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y R YA N S I P H E R S knowledgeable women. Chef Nick percent of the ingredients used says, “We will be making lū‘au at Moku Roots are purchased dip, smoked watermelon ‘ham,’ from local farms. “And nearly mac and cheese, mashed potatoes and gravy, broccoli fritters everything we serve is made from scratch in our kitchen.” and mushroom Wellington. How many of you have eaten beef “We make all our cheeses, creams and vegan butter inWellington?” We all raise our hands Chef Nick says, “Well, this house,” Nick adds. “I make mine with macadamia nuts. You will be a mushroom-filled Wellington.” can use nuts like almond or cashew, but macadamia is what Rita Goldman, MNKO’s senior editor and hopelessly bad I’ve transitioned to using here on Maui. We strive to reduce our cook, observes the menu’s lack of animal products, and asks, carbon footprint by sourcing locally grown product.” “What about protein?” Chef Nick gives Rita the confident look As she sets Lehia the task of spreading turmeric-tinged of one who knows nutrition; before moving to Maui, she worked vegan butter onto each phyllo sheet, Chef explains, “To create as a vegan chef at Fred Hutch Cancer Research Center in Seattle. the crunchy croissant-like layers, you need fat.” She steps to “Trust me,” she says. “There is plenty of protein in mushrooms.” the right, to a pan filled with roasted portobellos that have “Mushrooms are good for your brain, too,” publisher Diane marinated for seventy-two hours, lifts a handful and squeezes Woodburn pipes in. “They are? Let me at ’em!” says Rita. the liquid from the chunky mushroom mass, then mounds it Chef Nick explains, “When we’re [reinterpreting] a dish onto the dough. “Okay, repeat the layering process and I’ll show from a meat protein to plant-based, it’s not the protein itself, but you how to seal the edges when you’re done.” the flavor that leads the palate. It’s the combination of spices, Lū‘au dip is up next, along with a chemistry lesson. Alexa and fresh herbs, and how the vegetable is processed.” Nick explain that lū‘au, the leaves of the kalo plant (Colocasia Lehia Apana, our managing editor, asks, “Since you use so esculenta), contain calcium oxalate crystals—think the plant much local produce, how much of the menu is set? “It’s supply world’s version of fiberglass. Alexa says, “We cook it for four to and demand,” Erica replies, “and whatever seasonal ingredients six hours to break down the crystals.” “If not, your mouth and come in our back door from our local backyard growers.” Chef throat will itch and get irritated,” adds Chef Nick. “It’s not toxic
A VERY VEGAN HOLIDAY TEST KITCHEN Savor the flavor with delectable dishes from Moku Roots.
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Smoked Watermelon “Ham”
Mushroom Wellington
YIELD: 6–8 SERVINGS AS A MAIN COURSE, 10–12 SERVINGS AS A SECOND DISH PREP TIME: 24 HOURS TO MARINATE AND 1–2 HOURS TO SMOKE THE MELON, PLUS 2 HOURS FOR BAKING
YIELD: 6-8 SERVINGS PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES, PLUS 24–72 HOURS TO MARINATE MUSHROOMS, AND 30–50 MINUTES TO BAKE
1 large, seedless watermelon
Brine
1 gal. water ½ c. salt 1 c. apple cider vinegar 3 Tbsp. smoked paprika 2 Tbsp. fresh oregano, or 1 tsp. dried 1 Tbsp. black pepper
Maple Syrup Glaze
2 c. maple syrup 1 Tbsp. activated charcoal (for color) 1 Tbsp. cornstarch mixed with 3 Tbsp. cold water
METHOD Mix brine ingredients. Cut melon in half and carefully remove rind. Place in a deep pot and submerge in brine for 24 hours under refrigeration. Remove melon from brine and place in a smoker or grill with kiawe wood (mesquite). Smoke at 200° to desired smokiness, about 1–2 hours. While melon is smoking, prepare the maple syrup glaze: In a small pot, add maple syrup and activated charcoal and bring to a simmer. Slowly whisk in cornstarch mixture and simmer, scraping sides, until the glaze thickens, about 1 minute. Carefully place [smoked] melon halves on a roasting pan and coat evenly with maple glaze. Bake at 250° for 2 hours or more, depending on your desired firmness for the watermelon. Slice and serve warm.
Pro Tip: Here’s an alternative to smoking the watermelon over kiawe wood: After it’s marinated, brush the melon with 1 Tbsp. liquid smoke and bake it in a 250° oven for 4 hours.
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10–14 Portobello mushrooms, roughly sliced into 3” pieces
Marinade
½ c. vegan Better Than Bouillon base 2 Tbsp. black pepper 3 Tbsp. fresh thyme, or 2 Tbsp. dried 1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped fine 4 c. water 1 c. organic Maui sunflower or canola oil 1 c. soy sauce, or tamari (gluten-free)
Dough
1 pkg. phyllo dough 1 c. vegan butter, melted (Look for sustainably produced butter that contains no palm oil.) ½ c. balsamic vinegar, reduced to a syrup, for garnish METHOD Mix marinade ingredients well and marinade mushrooms 24–72 hours. Place mushrooms and marinade on a baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes in a preheated 350° oven. Cool. Defrost one package of phyllo dough, covering it with a damp cloth to keep it from drying out. ASSEMBLY Separate 1 phyllo dough
sheet and place in the center of a baking pan with sides. Brush with vegan butter and repeat for a total of 20 layers. Squeeze the marinade out of the mushrooms, and place the mushrooms in the center of the phyllo stack, leaving 2” of dough on all sides. [Marinade can be used in a stock, sauce or soup; don’t discard!] Cover the mushrooms with the remaining phyllo sheets, using the same buttering and layering technique. Fold the edges in to seal and brush with remaining butter. Bake at 350° for 30– 50 minutes, till golden brown. Cool for 10 minutes and transfer to a platter using two wide spatulas. Slice into desired portions and serve with balsamic reduction on the side.
Broccoli Fritters with Lemon & Black Pepper Macadamia Aioli YIELD: ENOUGH FOR A PARTY PREP TIME: 1 HOUR, PLUS FRYING TIME
Macadamia Aioli
3½ c. macadamia nuts 1½ c. water 1 Tbsp. salt ½ tsp. lemon juice ¼ c. olive oil 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 Tbsp. sugar 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbsp. black pepper
METHOD Blend all ingredients on high in Vitamix for 1 minute, till smooth and creamy. Refrigerate overnight to meld flavors (if time allows).
Broccoli Fritters
3 c. broccoli stems, tough skin removed 1½ c. onions ¾ c. garlic 1 c. nutritional yeast 1 c. oat flour 1 tsp. crushed red pepper 3 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves, or 2 Tbsp. dried 1 Tbsp. black pepper 4 tsp. sea salt 4 Tbsp. chia seeds 1 c. water oil for frying METHOD Pulse broccoli stems in food processor until finely chopped. Remove to a large bowl. Pulse onions until finely chopped and add to broccoli. Repeat with garlic. In blender, add chia seeds and water and blend on low for 10 seconds; then on high for 20 seconds. Pour into bowl with broccoli and add remaining ingredients. Mix very well for a few minutes, until mixture is thick enough to form 2–3” patties. Fry in ½” canola or sunflower oil till golden and crunchy. Serve hot or at room temperature with vegan aioli.
Pro Tip: Chef Nick says, “The fritters go great with rainbow slaw tossed in vegan nut cream.” Find the recipe at MauiMagazine.net/vegan-recipes.
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WATERMELON “HAM” bakes in a smoky cloak of maple syrup. Sliced thin, the tender and juicy melon sates the taste buds with paprika, sea salt and other spices.
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Diane and Michael layer phyllo sheets and vegan butter to assemble the MUSHROOM WELLINGTON. Lower left: Marinated and roasted portobellos create the savory filling. Lower right: The dish emerges from the oven to cheers from a captivated audience.
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Top left: Broccoli stems, their woody skins removed, sit chopped and ready for the food processor. Bottom: Nutritional yeast, onions and garlic add rich umami flavor to the golden BROCCOLI FRITTERS. Serve them with LEMON & BLACK PEPPER MACADAMIA AIOLI. Top right: After cooking for four hours, lū‘au leaves get a finishing sauté with aromatics, then the vegan nut cream is folded in.
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“WHEN WE [REINTERPRET] A DISH FROM MEAT TO PLANT-BASED, IT’S NOT THE PROTEIN, BUT THE FLAVOR, THAT LEADS THE PALATE— THE COMBINATION OF SPICES AND FRESH HERBS.” if you ingest the oxalate, but it isn’t recommended,” Alexa adds. Point taken. Now, back to the dip. Chef Nick says, “First we bloom the garlic and onions in the butter until it’s fragrant.” She adds cassava (tapioca) to the lū‘au leaf and onion sauté, then the macadamia-nut cream, and lickety-split, the dip is complete. Eyeing a tub of broccoli stems, I ask Chef Nick what she’ll make with it, and she expounds on the zero-waste efforts in the Moku Roots kitchen. “Because we see value in all parts of the plant, I developed a recipe to incorporate the stems. It takes a little time to remove the woody outside of the broccoli, but the stem is edible, so why waste it?” Effortlessly, she pours the raw, finely chopped broccoli stems from the food processor into a bowl and mixes them with fresh herbs, a scoop of mac-nut cream, and chia seeds puréed in water, which will act as a binder, the way eggs do. Alexa sprinkles oat flour over the mixture as Chef Nick massages it to the right consistency. “Why oat flour?” asks Rita. Chef Nick answers like a walking, talking cookbook, “Because, like oatmeal that you cook for breakfast, it absorbs the moisture. If you save some of the broccoli-fritter batter for the next day, you may need to adjust the moisture content, because oats are hydroscopic and keeps absorbing water until [they’re] 100 percent saturated. We also use it in our falafel at the restaurant. It’s gluten-free.” Golden-brown mushroom Wellington emerges from the oven, the scent of its buttery sweetness spiraling through the kitchen, blending with the smoke and char of watermelon baked “ham.” Our senses are filled with delicious aromas and flavors as we greet our new favorite dishes with oohs and aahs. Slices of tender red watermelon against the white plate evoke comments from the MNKO crew: “Looks like steak.” “It looks like sashimi.” We are anxious to try it! When all the dishes are complete, including aioli for the fritters, a balsamic vinegar reduction for the Wellington, gravy for the mashed potatoes, and a spiced kabocha pumpkin pie, we adjourn to the lānai and toast Alexa and Erica, whose vision of a healthy, plant-based restaurant and stewardship of Maui Nui garnered the talents of Chef Nick for all of us. Mahalo, Chef. Mālama ka ‘āina. Thank you for caring for the land. WEB EXCLUSIVE: Find the recipes for Moku Roots’ vegan mac and cheese, lū‘au leaf with roasted garlic dip, vegan nut cream, garlic mashed potatoes with vegan gravy, and Alexa’s kabocha pie at MauiMagazine.net/vegan-recipes.
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A Delicious Spin on
HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING
Hosting a party? Unwrap these tasty recipes, courtesy of The Mill House at Maui Tropical Plantation. They’re anything but run-of-the-mill! Our thanks to mixologist Dane Dostert for the drinks on these pages, and to chef Taylor Ponte for the pūpū on pages 102 and 103.
C O M P I L E D B Y B E C K Y S P E E R E P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y R YA N S I P H E R S
Mill House Irish Coffee (1)
1 oz. Teeling Irish Whiskey ½ oz. Averna Amaro liqueur 3–4 oz. French-pressed Mill House medium-roast coffee whipped cream to garnish METHOD Pour all ingredients into a
warmed glass or mug, and top with fresh whipped cream.
Round The Fire (5)
2 oz. El Dorado 15 Year Old Rum 1 tsp. Smoked Citrus Syrup (Recipe follows.) ½ tsp. St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram liqueur 2 dashes Bittermens Tiki Bitters
St. George Terroir Last Word (3)
¾ oz. St. George Terroir Gin ¾ oz. Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur ¾ oz. Green Chartreuse Liqueur ¾ oz. lime juice
METHOD Pour all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, add ice, shake hard for 20 seconds, and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a Luxardo Maraschino Cherry and a mint leaf on a skewer.
Mill House Honey Ginger Hot Toddy (6) 1½ oz. Appleton Signature Rum (a dry whiskey also works) 1 oz. Honey Ginger Syrup (Recipe follows.) ½ oz. lemon juice 4 oz. hot water
METHOD Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass. Add ice, stir 10 seconds, then strain into a rocks glass with one large ice cube. Garnish with an orange twist.
Add all ingredients to a warmed glass or mug and stir until all ingredients are fully incorporated. Garnish with a lemon slice floating in the cocktail.
Smoked Citrus Syrup
Honey Ginger Syrup
Mulled Wine (7)
1 bottle of inexpensive red wine 2 sticks cinnamon 6 whole cloves ½ tsp. grated ginger root ½ tsp. grated nutmeg 5 pods cardamom, cracked zest of one orange ½ c. honey ¼ c. brandy METHOD Wrap the spices and citrus zest in a large piece of cheesecloth, approximately 12 inches square, tying a knot to seal the bundle. Place the spice sack in a pot, pour the wine into the pot and add the brandy. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally. When the mixture is warm, stir in the honey. Simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes while the flavors meld, stirring occasionally. Do not let the mulled wine boil. When liquid is steaming lightly, it is ready to serve. Ladle into warm mugs. A version of this recipe appeared in Imbibe Magazine.
7 oz. water 3½ oz. gum arabic 14 oz. sugar peels from 3 oranges & 3 lemons METHOD Blend water, gum arabic and sugar on high speed, pour into bowl and add citrus peels. Place bowl inside large metal pan along with a smoking kiawe-wood log, and carefully wrap the entire pan in aluminum foil to lock in smoke. Allow smoke to infuse syrup for 6 hours. Strain and bottle syrup; will keep refrigerated for 2 weeks.
1 c. local honey ½ c. sugar 2 c. water 1 coarsely chopped ginger 2 diced Hawaiian chilis 1 tsp. Hawaiian salt
METHOD Combine all ingredients in a pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 15 minutes, until reduced by about half. Fine strain and bottle; will keep refrigerated for 2 weeks.
Coquito (4)
1½ oz. coconut milk ½ oz. orgeat 1 oz. Bacardi Ocho Rum ½ oz. Havana Club Blanco Rum ½ oz. Smith & Cross Rum ¼ tsp. each ground cinnamon & ground nutmeg METHOD Build ingredients in shaker and shake hard to mix all ingredients well. Pour into large rocks glass, add ice, and garnish with extra sprinkle of cinnamon and nutmeg.
Find Dane’s recipe for Fassionola Rum Punch (2) at MauiMagazine.net/mill-house-recipes.
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Pumpkin Spiced Squash Cannoli (1)
Tis the Seasoned Pork Belly (2)
YIELD: 20–30 CANNOLI, DEPENDING ON SIZE OF WRAPPER | PREP TIME: 3 HOURS
YIELD: ENOUGH FOR A PARTY PREP TIME: 31⁄2 HOURS
1 whole sweet squash, seeded 4 Tbsp. olive oil ¼ c. sugar 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 1 tsp. allspice salt & pepper to taste 1 package of premade puff pastry (if frozen, defrost overnight in refrigerator)
Spice Rub
METHOD Cut squash in half and dress with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake in 400° oven until tender, about 30–40 minutes. Scoop pulp and place in blender. Add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, blend until smooth, then chill 1 hour. Form the puff pastry into cannoli shapes and fill with chilled squash purée. Bake at 450° for 20 minutes, or fry until puff pastry is golden brown.
Red Pepper Jam Canapé with Humboldt Fog Cheese & Fresh Basil on Hazelnut Cracker (4)
¼ c. fennel seeds ¼ c. ground coffee 4 star anise pods 4 cinnamon sticks 4 tsp. cloves 1 c. salt ⅔ c. sugar
1 pork belly, whole 4 Tbsp. olive oil 3–4 qt. beef stock 1 head of cabbage, chopped 1 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 3 onions, chopped 1 garlic head, whole 1 large carrot 1 sprig each thyme & rosemary METHOD Grind the spice-rub ingredients together. Dry the pork belly and rub with spice rub. In a large pan, evenly brown pork belly on high heat with olive oil. Cover with beef stock and add herbs and vegetables. Simmer on the stove for 2 hours. Once pork is fork-tender, allow it to rest in juices for 1 hour.
YIELD: APPROX. 5 CUPS | PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR TO COOL
3 c. shishito pepper, rough chopped 1 red onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 Tbsp. olive oil 8 oz. white wine vinegar 1 bay leaf 1 c. sugar 1 c. water salt & pepper to taste
METHOD Sweat onion and garlic in a saucepan with olive oil; do not brown. Deglaze pan with white wine vinegar. Add remaining ingredients and reduce until the relish is thickened. Season to taste. Chill. Spread on crackers with Humboldt Fog cheese and garnish with a leaf of fresh basil (preferably tulsi or Thai).
Honey Brioche with Allspice Butter (5) YIELD: 2 LOAVES | PREP TIME: 2 HOURS, PLUS REST PERIOD (6–24 HOURS)
2½ tsp. active dry yeast ⅓ c. milk, warmed to 100° 3¾ c. all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for kneading 7 large eggs, divided ⅓ c. granulated sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt ¼ c. honey 8 oz. unsalted butter, room temp. METHOD In the bowl of an electric
stand mixer, combine yeast with warm milk; let stand a few minutes, until it turns bubbly. With the paddle mixer attachment, stir in 1 cup flour and 1 egg. Remove bowl from mixer and sprinkle 1 cup of flour over the mixture. Wrap with plastic. Let stand in a warm place 25–40 minutes, or until the surface of the flour has a cracked appearance.
Lightly beat 5 eggs. Switch to the dough hook on the stand mixer and add sugar, honey, salt, beaten eggs, and remaining 1¾ cup flour. Mix on low 1–2 minutes, increase speed to medium and mix for about 15 minutes, until the dough starts wrapping itself around the dough hook. Add more flour, a few teaspoons at a time as necessary, to coax the dough from the sides of mixing bowl. Turn mixer to low and add the butter, 2–3 tablespoons at a time. Increase speed to medium and beat dough for 3–4 minutes, again adding small amounts of flour as needed to coax the dough from the sides of the mixing bowl. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface. Knead it a few times by hand, and gather it into a ball. Place the ball in a large oiled bowl, turning it to grease both sides. Wrap bowl tightly with plastic and set in a warm place to rise until the dough doubles in size, about 2 hours. Place a sheet of parchment paper on a large baking sheet and sprinkle it generously with flour. Spread the dough out on the parchment, sprinkle it with more flour, cover with a sheet of parchment and a towel, and refrigerate at least 6 hours, or overnight. Generously grease two large loaf pans (about 9”x5”x3”). Shape the chilled dough into two large loaves, cover each with a towel, and let them rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours, or until the dough reaches about 1 inch above the pans. Heat oven to 375°. Whisk together 1 egg and 2 teaspoons of water. Gently brush loaves with egg wash and bake 30–35 minutes, or until the loaves turn golden brown and sound hollow when tapped. (The internal temperature should register between 190° and 205°.)
Allspice Butter
1 lb. unsalted butter, room temp. 1 tsp. sea salt 1 c. sugar 1 Tbsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. allspice 1 tsp. fresh nutmeg
METHOD Stir butter and fold in spices. Keep chilled until service. Bring to room temperature to serve.
Find Chef Taylor’s recipe for Holiday Sausage with Pickled Shallots & House Mustard (3) at MauiMagazine.net/mill-house-recipes. MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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M I X O L O G Y
Not Your Grandma’s Gin & Tonic Yield: 1 pitcher (4–6 cocktails)
M A U I
2 2 1–3 2
12-oz. cans KUPU Spirits Gin & Tonic c. frozen fruit, cubed (such as Maui Gold pineapple, Yee’s Orchard mangoes, sapote, or bananas) oz. KUPU gin, optional c. unsprayed edible flowers, frozen into ice cubes
SUSTAINABLE SPIRIT
In Chicago, the beer is green every St. Patrick’s Day. At Maui Brewing Company, the drinks are green all year long. STORY BY BECKY SPEERE
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ince founding Maui Brewing Company in 2005, husband and wife Garrett Marrero and Melanie Oxley have been slaying it, adding a full-service restaurant in 2017, and a distillery in 2019. Garrett shares that growth has been a long-standing goal for the company. (KUPU, the name of Maui Brewing’s newest line of distillates, is Hawaiian for “new growth.”) “We got a dual license for beer and distillates in 2013. This year, we added 3,500 square feet to the existing plant, and purchased a 3-acre lot adjacent to the brewery for a total of 8.3
acres. The plan is to have all our storage and production facilities in one area.” Efficiency is one reason; the other is sustainability. In mid-August, the company garnered national attention by becoming the largest off-the-grid craft brewery in the U.S., operating on 1.2 megawatts of photovoltaic power. Being a certified green business has also meant investing in the newest technology to decrease the company’s carbon footprint. The carbon dioxide produced during beer making is used to produce non-alcoholic drinks: cola, ginger ale and tonic water. Garrett tours me through one of the storage rooms, and an oak cask labeled “White Whiskey” catches my eye. “What’s that?” I ask. “It’s our whiskey in charred new oak that’s aged 808 minutes,” he answers with a smile. I do the math: 13 hours + 28 minutes; just enough to impart a smokiness to the distillate. I’ll be looking for the “808” soon. To learn more about solar-powered breweries, visit BrewsFromTheSun.org.
BECKY SPEERE
Place all the ingredients into a large glass pitcher. Stir gently. Enjoy!
SAVOUR The experience of a lifetime, every time.
Best Pacific Rim Cuisine & Most Innovative Menu ‘Aipono Awards, Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine Hawai‘i Seasonal Cuisine Chef de Cuisine Alvin Savella
Humu Lounge 5 pm to 10 pm | Dinner 5 pm to 9:30 pm 3850 Wailea Alanui, Wailea, HI 96753 @grandwailea
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808.875.1234 Ext. 2500
WWW.GRANDWAILEA.COM
DINING GUIDE
G U I D E D I N I N G
» B = Breakfast » BR = Brunch » L = Lunch » H = Happy Hour » D = Dinner » N = Dinner past 9 p.m. » R= Reservation recommended » $ = Average entrée under $15 » $$ = Under $25 » $$$ = Under $40 » $$$$ = $40+ = ‘Aipono Readers’ Choice Award winners for 2019
WEST SIDE
A‘A ROOTS
Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Suite 3, Nāpili, 298-2499
Vegan cuisine made with the freshest Maui produce. Try the açai bowl, soba bowl with peanut sauce, or bagel sandwich with hummus, avo and veggies. International. B, L. $
ALCHEMY MAUI 157 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 793-2115
Nutty veggie and whitecheddar burgers, bahn mi bowls with lemongrass chicken, and mojo pork for Cubanos on freshly baked sourdough—all served in this quasi-industrial setting. Don’t forget the Valley Isle Kombucha. International. L. $-$$
ALOHA MIXED PLATE 1285 Front St., Lahaina, 661-3322
Plate lunches served up with plenty of aloha. Shoyu chicken, chow fun, and banana lumpia are local favorites. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D, N. $
AMIGO’S 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-0210
Authentic Mexican fajitas, tostadas, flautas, and Amigo’s famous wet burritos. Kid-friendly. Mexican. B, L, D. $
AUNTIE’S KITCHEN The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3259
Saimin, burgers and fresh-fish plate lunches mingle with other local fare. Local Mixed Plate. B, L, D. $–$$
THE BANYAN TREE 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr., Kapalua, 665-7096
Chef Bella Toland’s interpretation of her lola’s (grandmother’s) pancit palabok is a fine Filipino noodle dish chock-full of shrimp and calamari steak, finished with a lobster-stock reduction in annatto-ginger-
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garlic-shrimp sauce, and topped with herbs, chicharron and garlic. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$$
beach house. Kid-friendly. American/ Order Hawaiian-style edamame, Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$ a juicy burger, or fish taco to go with your poolside mai tai or FEAST AT LELE BREAKWALL Black Rock Lager. 505 Front St., Lahaina, SHAVE ICE COMPANY Hawai‘i Regional. L, D. $–$$ 667-5353 The Wharf Cinema Center This classy beachfront lū‘au Shops, 658 Front St., #104, THE COFFEE STORE explores the cultural and Lahaina, 661-4900 Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau culinary world of the Pacific Adult shave ice? You bet! Cool St., Nāpili, 669-4170 Islands. Open bar. off with one of the best snow Stop in for a coffee and Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$ cones on Maui, and discover muffin . . . and you may end your favorite island flavor. up staying for lunch—or FLEETWOOD’S Treats. $ later. (They’re open till 6 p.m.) ON FRONT ST. Great service and fresh744 Front St., Lahaina, CANE & CANOE baked goods, yogurt-granola 669-6425. Montage Kapalua Bay, 1 Bay Dr., parfaits, chia pudding, and (Yes, that Fleetwood.) Pacific Kapalua, 662-6681 to-go items. oysters with a tart apple For breakfast: Surfing Goat Coffee Shop. B, L, D. $ mignonette, grilled Hawaiian Dairy cheese crêpes with shutome, and a one-pound Kula strawberries or croqueCOOL CAT CAFÉ Harley Davidson Hog Burger. madame made with Hawaiian 658 Front St., Lahaina, Bar opens at 2 p.m. sweet bread filled with 667-0908 American/British Pub Food. kālua pork and Gruyère Burgers, chicken, fish and L, H, D, N. $$–$$$$ mornay sauce. For dinner: more, all in a ’50s diner Kaua‘i prawns and Kona atmosphere. FRIDA’S MEXICAN kampachi with beet Kid-friendly. American. BEACH HOUSE dashi, kabocha squash, or L, D. $ 1287 Front St. Lahaina, mushroom Bolognese over 661-1287 yaki soba noodles. DOWN THE HATCH Chalupas, fresh aguachile Kid-friendly. Pacific Rim. The Wharf Cinema Center, 658 ‘ahi, short-rib tacos, and B, D. $$$–$$$$ Front St., Lahaina, 661-4900 great mixology are among Mermaid fries with cheese, the reasons this seaside CAPTAIN JACK’S bacon, ranch dressing and restaurant won the Gold ISLAND GRILL lava sauce; towering shrimp ‘Aipono Award for Best The Wharf Cinema Center, cocktails; fresh island fish; Mexican Cuisine. 672 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0988 and lots of Southern aloha . Latin-inspired. L, H, D. $–$$ The menu alone is worth . . great shave ice, too! (See the trip, with choices like Breakwall’s listing.) HONOLULU Siren’s shrimp, Black Bart’s Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, COFFEE COMPANY BBQ chicken salad, and Black H, D, N, R. $$ Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Beard’s Philly cheesesteak. Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, American. L, D. $–$$ 868-4806 DRUMS OF THE PACIFIC ‘Aipono’s 2019 Silver Award CHOICE HEALTH BAR Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 winner for Best Coffee Shop, 1087 Limahana Pl., #1A, Lahaina, Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, this full-service coffee bar 661-7711 661-1234 also offers light fare such as Juices, smoothies, salads, Enjoy a traditional imu granola parfait with fresh fruit, soups and açai bowls are ceremony and Hawaiian bagels, and ham-and-cheese all made with fresh local cuisine, plus the dances and croissants. ingredients. Daily specials, music of Polynesia. Coffee Shop. B, L. $ and an epic entrée with Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. forbidden rice and marinated D, R. $$$$ HONU SEAFOOD broccoli in red-pepper & PIZZA sesame sauce. DUKE’S 1295 Front St., Lahaina, Second West Maui Honua Kai Resort & Spa, 130 667-9390 location: Whalers Village, Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, Mark Ellman serves 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., 662-2900 bicoastal seafood and killer Kā‘anapali. American. B, L. $ Imagine Old Hawai‘i Neapolitan pizza. while dining on crab-andSeafood/Pizza. L, D. $$ CLIFF DIVE GRILL macadamia-nut wontons Sheraton Maui Resort & or prime rib at this open-air Spa, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0031
HULA GRILL Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-6636
Dip your toes in the sand at the Barefoot Bar and enjoy poke tacos, tiki mai tais, homemade ice-cream sandwiches, and live music. Kid-friendly. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $$
INU POOL BAR The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6370
Island-fresh mixology earned Inu the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best Cocktails. Taste for yourself—and enjoy Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Hiwa beer-can chicken with shoestring potatoes and buttermilk dip, or Maui beerbattered tempura fish with Ocean Vodka tartar sauce. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D. $–$$
JAPENGO Hyatt Regency, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4727
Great steaks and authentic sushi prepared with the finest seafood are just two of the reasons Japengo won ‘Aipono’s 2019 Gold Award as Restaurant of the Year. Japanese. D, N. $$$
JOEY’S KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 868-4474 Second West Maui location: Napili Plaza, 5095 Napilihau St., Nāpili, 214-5590
You can start your day with macadamia-nut pancakes or kālua-pork omelet at Whalers Village . . . and end at Joey’s Nāpili venue with the best dinner ever. Chef Joey Macadangdang knows good food. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$
LAHAINA GRILL 127 Lahainaluna, Rd., Lahaina, 667-5117
Treat yourself to a warm, pecan-crusted goat cheese and arugula salad; Maui onion
SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
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G U I D E D I N I N G
and sesame-crusted ‘ahi steak with vanillabean jasmine rice; or the famous Kona coffee-roasted rack of lamb with coffeecabernet demi-glace. Great wine selections and cocktails. American/Pacific Rim. D, R. $$$$
LEILANI’S ON THE BEACH
Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-4495
Chef Ryan Luckey rocks island flavors with a lemongrass miso salmon and Duroc pork ribs with honey BBQ glaze. Kid-friendly. Steak/Seafood. L, H, D, N. $$
LEODA’S KITCHEN & PIE SHOP 820 Olowalu Village Rd., Olowalu, 662-3600
The house-made pastrami on fresh-baked bread, pineapple coleslaw, and ice-cold beer, or just-squeezed lemonade will make you want to dance. After the mac-nut chocolate cream pie, you will boogie! American. B, L, D. $
LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE 624 Front St., Lahaina, 868-3476
This location also serves açai bowls, coffee and bagels. Also see South Shore listing. Treats. $
MĀLA OCEAN TAVERN 1307 Front St., Lahaina, 667-9394
Snap peas slathered in ginger and sambal, and fresh ‘ahi atop flaxseed bruschetta satisfy the health-conscious and the hedonistic alike at this surfside tavern. Turtle sightings are nearly guaranteed. Mediterranean. BR (Sat- Sun), L, D. $$
MAUIGROWN COFFEE COMPANY STORE 277 Lahainaluna Rd., Lahaina, 661-2728
If you’re running low on energy, head to MauiGrown’s plantation-style hale for a boost. Pumpkin bread and other baked goods round out a great cuppa joe. Coffee Shop/Café. B, L. $
MAUI’S BEST BANANA BREAD + COFFEE CO. 180 Dickenson St., Lahaina, 661-6216
Banana, roasted macadamia nuts, and coconut—life’s essentials rolled into a single serving of sweetness. Coffees, smoothies, and lunch, too! Bacon, eggs and ham bagel, turkey-avo wrap. GF banana-bread option. Coffee Shop. B, L. $
MAUKA MAKAI The Westin Nanea Ocean Villas, 45 Kai Malina Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 662-6400
Expect the freshest fish, beef and lamb, vegetable sautés, and island-inspired desserts at this restaurant that celebrates the fishing and farming cultures of ancient Hawai‘i. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$$
MERRIMAN’S KAPALUA 1 Bay Club Pl., Kapalua, 669-6400
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Poutine, sriracha chicken wings and an Australian Wagyu beef burger served al fresco. American. L, H, D, N. $–$$
Honoapi‘ilani Rd., #111, Kahana, 669-9010
PIONEER INN GRILL & BAR
See South Side listing.
658 Wharf St., Lahaina, 661-3636
MOKU ROOTS 335 Keawe St., #211, Lahaina, 214-5106
Where can you find a vegan/ vegetarian venue worthy of the 2019 Silver ‘Aipono for Best New Restaurant? The same place you’ll find a Gold for tastiest Healthy Fare— here! (See story on page 94.) Vegetarian-Vegan. B, L, D, R. $
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN Whalers Village, 2435 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 878-6763
See South Shore listing.
MYTHS OF MAUI Royal Lahaina Resort, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-9119
Live music, Polynesian dance, and an island-inspired buffet complete with kālua pig unearthed from the imu. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$
OLD LĀHAINA LŪ‘AU 1251 Front St., Lahaina, 667-0700
Lounge on tatami mats and eat lomilomi salmon and haupia (coconut pudding) like a Hawaiian. Reserve this popular, authentic lū‘au far in advance. Open bar. Kid-friendly. Lū‘au. D, R. $$$$
PACIFIC’O 505 Front St., Lahaina, 667-4341
Fish tacos and bahn mi sandwiches are delicious lunch fare; for dinner, lobster ravioli or coconut-dusted mahi with Thai lemongrass-peanut sauce on black mochi rice. Stunning oceanfront dining. Hawai‘i Regional. BR (Sun), L, D. $$-$$$$
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT 632 Front St., Lahaina, 662-3456
See North Shore listing.
Views of the bustling harbor, sailor-worthy breakfasts, extended happy hours, and well-priced dinners reel ‘em. American. B, L, H, D. $–$$
PIZZA PARADISO MEDITERRANEAN GRILL 3350 L. Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Kā‘anapali, 667-2929
Juicy gyros, flavorful falafel in warm pita bread with a side of tabbouleh, kabob platters . . . and pizza. Dine in or take out. Pizza/Med. L, D. $–$$
PRISON STREET PIZZA 133 Prison St., Lahaina, 662-3332
East Coast-style pizza, Caesar salad, calzones and more. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $
PŪLEHU, AN ITALIAN GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200
Try the pappardelle Bolognese made with Maui Cattle Company beef, or succulent Kaua‘i prawn risotto. End with chocolate almond cake and amarena gelato. Italian. D. $$$
ROCKSALT
for the signature Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé. Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$$
ROYAL OCEAN TERRACE RESTAURANT Royal Lahaina Resort & Spa, 2780 Keka‘a Dr., Kā‘anapali, 661-3611
Breakfast offerings include loco moco and eggs Benedict choices. Or go light with a delightful avocado toast topped with microgreens. Burgers and prime rib, too. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $–$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
SON’Z STEAKHOUSE
TIKI TERRACE RESTAURANT
Hyatt Regency Maui, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506
Moroccan-spiced blackened ‘ahi with soy-mustard sauce enlivens the evening. Or sink your teeth into filet mignon carpaccio, rib-eye steak, or classically prepared, linecaught mahimahi in lemoncaper butter. Pacific Rim/Steak. H, D, N. $$-$$$$
STAR NOODLE 286 Kupuohi St., Lahaina, 667-5400
Big-city style and local flavors unite. At the communal table, order a Golden Star sparkling Steaks worthy of devotion, jasmine tea. The ramen broth top-flight service and a is extra smoky; the Singapore superb wine list earn the chain noodles bright and flavorful. loyal fans. This venue doesn’t Asian. L, D. $$ stray from the flock. Several tables overlook the ocean. TAVERNA American. H, D, N. $$$$ 2000 Village Rd., Kapalua, 667-2426
House-made pastas, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-7667 agrodolce-style fish of the Brick-oven-fired pizza and day, and Italian desserts that flatbreads highlight a menu stand up to the grand finale: that changes daily, with items espresso with grappa. . . . such as pancetta and ceci Taverna is dining heaven. purée on grilled crostini, and Great wine, cocktails, and house-made strozzapreti pasta exotic craft beer, too! like Chef Michele’s mama Italian. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$ makes in Italy. Good selection of Italian wines and beer. TEDDY’S BIGGER Italian/Pizza. D. $$ BURGERS
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR 600 S. Office Rd., Kapalua, 669-6286
Small and action-packed, D.K. Kodama’s classy sushi bar draws lines late into the night. Eclectic, globally inspired share Try a Kenny G roll (snapper with plates combine exotic spices, shiso and ponzu sauce) with a ingredients and flavor profiles swig of saké. with fresh produce from Pacific Rim/Sushi. D, N, R. $$$ Hawai‘i farms. An equally fresh cocktail program features THE SEA HOUSE Hawai‘i-produced spirits and RESTAURANT house-made infusions. Nāpili Kai Beach Resort, 5900 L. Kid-friendly. International. Honoapi‘ilani, Nāpili, 669-1500 B, H, D. R. $$–$$$ Start the day with oven-baked pancakes laden with fruit. ROY’S Enjoy coconut-crusted shrimp 2290 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., as the sun sinks into Nāpili Kā‘anapali, 669-6999 Bay. On Wednesday, stay At lunchtime, line up for a for Grammy-winner George great Maui burger. For dinner, Kahumoku Jr.’s Masters of dive into Roy’s blackened Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar. ‘ahi with soy mustard, ume Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$$ tsukudani, soy daikon and pickled ginger. Save room Sheraton Maui, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600
Dine in casual comfort with the full-service menu, or challenge yourself to try all the offerings at the awardwinning Sunday brunch. Kid-friendly. American/ Pacific Rim. B, BR, L, D. $–$$$
TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE Wharf Cinema Center, 658 Front St., Lahaina, 661-1919
Outlets of Maui, 900 Front St., Lahaina, 661-8815
SALE PEPE
Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel, 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 661-0011
G U I D E
MISO PHAT SUSHI Kahana Manor, 4310 L.
PAILOLO BAR & GRILL The Westin Kā‘anapali Ocean Resort Villas, 6 Kai Ala Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-3200
D I N I N G
Peter Merriman casts his spell on seafood, local beef and produce to create the most delectable fare. Pacific Rim. Sunday BR, L, D, R. $$–$$$$
335 Keawe St., Lahaina, 661-9111
The staff hand-pat the burgers, charbroil them to order, and serve them in a fun diner ambiance. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $
TEPPAN-YAKI DAN Sheraton Maui Resort, 2605 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali, 921-4600
Start with Oyster Dan— seared oysters with wasabi and tobiko— then watch your skillful chef transform chunks of lobster and sirloin into a masterpiece on your plate. Japanese/Steak. D, R. $$$
THAI CHEF
Thai food by Thai chefs—100 dishes from spring rolls and pad Thai to yellow curry with seafood. Yum! Thai. $–$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 790 Front St., Lahaina, 877-3700 Second West Maui location: Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali
Homemade tropical-flavored syrups such as liliko‘i and coconut set this shave-ice business apart. Kid-friendly. Treats. $
‘ŪMALU Hyatt Regency Maui Resort & Spa, 200 Nohea Kai Dr., Kā‘anapali, 667-4506
Head poolside for Kobe beef sliders or ‘ahi poke nachos. Knock back a “Mutiny on the Carthaginian” cocktail inspired by Lahaina’s rowdy whaling past. Live music nightly. American/Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $$$
SOUTH SHORE 1054 TOGOSHI 95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 868-0307
Chef Manabu’s twenty-five years as a sushi chef—two of them as head chef at Morimoto’s Maui—shine through in fresh sashimi and sushi. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of each month. Sushi. D. $-$$
Old Lahaina Center, 878 Front St., Lahaina, 667-2814
AKAMAI COFFEE COMPANY
This small, well-loved venue keeps fans coming back for commendable curries, fresh prawn spring rolls, and beef salads drenched in tangy sauce. Thai. L, D. $
1325 S. Kīhei Rd., Unit 100, Kīhei, 868-3251
Coffee and espresso done right with beans from their own farm. Coffee Shop. $
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D I N I N G
Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234
Organic Kurobuta pork, Hāna Bay fish and chips, and grilled mahimahi are made with fresh, local ingredients and served up in this casual, open-air eatery. Kid-friendly. American. L, D. $$$
BOTERO BAR Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234
FERRARO’S BAR E RISTORANTE
CAFÉ O’LEI 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-1368
Choose from macadamianut-crusted chicken, seared ‘ahi tuna, tiger shrimp linguine and other favorites. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $$
COCONUTS FISH CAFÉ Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-9979 Second South Maui location: Kama‘ole Shopping Center, 2463 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei.
Dive into fresh fish tacos, grilled fish burgers or fish and chips. The cabbage slaw with coconut dressing and mango salsa sets this eatery apart. American. L, D. $$
DA KITCHEN Rainbow Mall, 2439 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7782
The Hawaiian plate feeds three normal appetites or one sumosize eater. Plate-lunch favorites like chicken katsu, tempura fish, and Korean mixed plate won’t leave you wanting. Kid-friendly. Local Mixed Plate. L, D. $
DUO
whalersvillage.com
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95 E. Līpoa St., Kīhei, 874-0888 Second South Shore location: 34 Wailea Gateway Place, Ste. A101, Wailea, 874-1234
Lox and bagels, fresh croissants, Caprese salad with local tomatoes, thin-crust and gluten-free pizza, spaghetti with house-made porksausage meatballs. Italian/Bakery. B, L, D. $$
Named for Fernando Botero sculptures surrounding it, the Botero Bar offers nightly entertainment and Thirsty Thursdays, when a threecocktail tasting is just $20. L, D, H, N. $
beachfront shopping, dining and entertainment.
FABIANI’S PIZZERIA & BAKERY
Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000
Breakfast buffet, or à la carte? Wait—did someone mention chateaubriand? Four Seasons never disappoints. Pacific Rim. B, D. $–$$$
Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000
For lunch, enjoy veggie quesadillas or grilled tenderloin sandwiches served poolside; for dinner, handcrafted salumi and lobster tagliatelle. Italian. L, H, D. $$$$
FORK & SALAD 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3675
Chef/owners Cody, Travis and Jaron serve up green superfoods topped with pastrami-style seared ‘ahi, baked quinoa falafel, or ginger tofu. Vegan, glutenand dairy-free options. International. L, D. $
FOUR SEASONS LOBBY LOUNGE Four Seasons Resort Maui, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000
Impeccable service, an upscale, locally sourced menu, swank cocktails, and performances by hip, local songwriters. Pacific Rim. H, D, N. $$$$
HONOLULU COFFEE COMPANY The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-6630
See West Side listing.
HUMBLE MARKET KITCHIN Wailea Marriott, 3700 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-4655
Chef Roy Yamaguchi hits it out of the ballpark with kampachi crudo, seasonal Goose Point oysters, roasted Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, tender beef short ribs, and even saimin. Perfect. Pacific Regional. B, H, D. $–$$$
HUMUHUMU Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-1234
‘Aipono’s 2018 Chef of the Year, Alvin Savella turns out a piquant huli huli chicken with li hing mui rub, and ramen made for royalty: half a Konaraised lobster in a velvety red miso-coconut broth. Pacific Rim. D. $$–$$$
ISLAND GOURMET MARKETS The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-5055
Sushi to go, deli sandwiches, plate lunches and much more. Pacific Rim. B, L, D. $
KA‘ANA KITCHEN Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234
Start with grilled Wagyu hanger steak on green papaya salad, then charred octopus with local goat cheese. Next, Kona abalone on creamy risotto, or a modern interpretation of chicken and waffles. There’s a curated wine list with sommeliers to guide you in pairings, and mixology at its finest. Asian Fusion. B, D. $$$$
KAMANA KITCHEN 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-7888
Eye-catching art and Indian relics are prelude to a menu highlighting exotic spices lovingly blended from family recipes. Lunch buffet. Indian. L. D. $–$$
KIHEI CAFFE 1945 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-2230
Woke up hungry at 5 a.m.? Head down to this surfer hangout and load up on banana-mac-nut pancakes, loco moco, and a cuppa joe. Café. B, L. $–$$
KŌ Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210
Plantation Era cuisine takes the spotlight. Try the Kobe beef poke appetizer and “On the Rock”: three mouthwatering morsels of ‘ahi served with a 300-degree lava rock for searing them to perfection. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. R. $$$
SEE MORE LISTINGS AT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/DININGGUIDE MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
THE MARKET 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 879-2433
Fresh-baked bread, breakfast, salads to go, plus charcuterie. Deli. B, L, D. $$
LINEAGE
MATTEO’S OSTERIA
The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-8800
161 Wailea Ike Pl., Wailea, 879-8466
World-famous “flying saucers,” Simeon family pork and peas, and whimsical ochazuke-toasted rice guriguri. Chef Sheldon Simeon’s playful take on plantation cuisine will keep you coming back for more! Pacific Rim. D. $–$$
LOCAL BOYS SHAVE ICE Kihei Kalama Shopping Center, 1941 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 344-9779
How to chill out in the Islands? Slurp up a mountain of fruity shave ice served with plantation-era-inspired add-ons like haupia (coconut pudding) and macadamia-nut ice cream. Treats. $
LONGHI’S WAILEA The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 891-8883
Matteo’s makes its meatball sandwich with Maui Cattle Company beef and Italian sausage, and crusts its ‘ahi with Calabrese olive tapenade. Italian. L, H, D. $$–$$$
MISO PHAT SUSHI Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-6476
Sushi served on site, to go, or delivered. Sashimi platters, sushi rolls, nigiri and specialty rolls. Omakase heaven! Japanese. L, H, D. $$
MONKEYPOD KITCHEN 10 Wailea Gateway Pl., Wailea, 891-2322
Lunch at this Peter Merriman restaurant includes pizza, burgers, tacos and ramen. For dinner: Big Island beef rib eye with chimichurri sauce, gnocchi with pork sausage, and banana-cream pie. Hawai‘i Regional. L, H, D, N. $$
MULLIGANS ON THE BLUE 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 874-1131
Maui’s only Irish-owned pub serves up fish and chips, grilled bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie. Or try the chopped salad with bacon, blue cheese and tomatoes. Guinness poured properly, great music to get you footstompin’ happy, and sportsbar action, too. Sláinte! Irish. L, H, D, N. $–$$$ NALU’S SOUTH SHORE GRILL Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 891-8650
Generous portions and local ingredients served with aloha. ‘Ahi club with smoked bacon, and fresh fish and chips will have you coming
PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET RESTAURANT
back for more. Burgers? Yes! American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $–$$
1913 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 874-8888
NICK’S FISHMARKET Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 879-7224
Classic seafood dishes are served beneath a sky full of stars. Woo your date with plump strawberries that are drenched in Grand Marnier and set aflame. Pacific Rim/Seafood. H, D, R. $$$$
The same yummy menu that for years has hooked surfers and families in Pā‘ia is now in Kīhei, too. (See North Shore listing.)
G U I D E
Cocktails created with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients like lychee, liliko‘i and Hawaiian navel oranges go hand in hand with Ka‘ana Kitchen’s award-winning menu. Lounge. H. $
chicken scaloppine or Chef Geno’s homemade lasagna. Italian/Pizza. L, H, D, N. $$
D I N I N G
LEHUA LOUNGE Andaz Maui, 3550 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 573-1234
THE PINT & CORK The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, 727-2038
The best mac-and-cheese with black truffles, shrimp and grits with chorizo, poke bowls and burgers. If it’s football season, you can score breakfast, too. Touchdown! American. L, H, D, N. $–$$
NUTCHAREE’S THAI FOOD Azeka Shopping Center Makai, 1280 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 633-4840
The flavors of Thailand never get boring when Nutcharee is cooking! Start with ‘ahi laab tartare salad, or the popular crispy fish mango salad, then dig into tender braised short ribs smothered in massaman curry. Don’t forget the spring rolls! Thai. L, D. $–$$
PITA PARADISE 34 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 879-7177
Start with classic spinach tiropitas with caramelized onion, feta, mozzarella and tzatziki wrapped in phyllo dough; then move on to kabobs, luscious pastas and gyros. Baklava ice-cream cake, too. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$$
Romantic Oceanfront Dining On One Of Maui’s Premier Beaches
Enjoy a crisp pinot grigio and a romaine salad tossed with lemon-feta vinaigrette and anchovies. Italian. B, L, H, D. $$$
LUANA Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-2210
This lobby lounge reimagines happy hour in tropical surroundings. Try appetizers like lū‘au-inspired kāluapork flatbread with mango barbecue sauce, and lomilomi tomato paired with ice-cold passionfruit ale. Pacific Rim. L, H, D. $–$$
MANOLI’S PIZZA COMPANY 100 Wailea Ike Dr., Wailea, 874-7499
Manoli’s believes in fresh, organic and sustainable ingredients. Order a pizza with handcrafted organic wheat or gluten-free crust, or dig into
RESERVATIONS 808 875 7555
2980 SOUTH KIHEI RD. KIHEI, MAUI, HI 96753
FEATURING BRUNCH, HAPPY HOUR & DINNER DAILY
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Happy Holidays ~ from ~ Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants Hawaii For all there is to celebrate this holiday season, find the perfect bottle of wine to share with your family and friends. When you enjoy a bottle of Chambers & Chambers wine, you can be confident that the quality of our wine will honor your guests.
This year, Chambers & Chambers celebrates 40 years of business in Hawaii. We would like to raise a glass to our customers, partners, & staff for their commitment and efforts to reach this milestone and we look forward to the exciting years to come. Mahalo!
WWW.ALOHAMIXEDPLATE.COM • 1285 Front Street, Lahaina, HI • (808) 661-3322
S AME
O
• ALWAY S LOC AL BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER
global portfolio knowledgable team exceptional service @ChambersWinesHawaii @chamberswineshi @ChambersWinesHI Serving Hawaii’s Restaurant & Fine Wine Community Since 1979 www.chamberswines.com
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RESERVATIONS WALK-INS TAKE-OUT
THE RESTAURANT AT HOTEL WAILEA 555 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 879-2224
Produce from the hotel’s gardens and fish plucked from island waters provide some of the freshest ingredients you’ll find in any restaurant. Add Chef Zach Sato’s culinary talents and a gorgeous outdoor setting, and you have a night made in heaven. European-inspired. H, D, N. $$-$$$$
G U I D E
This family-style restaurant serves Cobb salad, hot and cold deli sandwiches, award-winning pizza, and pasta, too. Italian/Pizza. L, D. $-$$
D I N I N G
PIZZA MADNESS 1455 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 270-9888
ROASTED CHILES Azeka Shopping Center Mauka, 1279 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 868-4357
Ofir and Suki Benitez share family recipes like Mama Benitez’s chicken mole, pozole verde, and langostino enchiladas blanketed with tomatillo cream sauce. Giant margaritas! Mexican. L, H, D. $–$$
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8880.
See West Side listing.
SANSEI SEAFOOD RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR Kīhei Town Center, 1881 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-0004
See West Side listing.
SARENTO’S ON THE BEACH 2980 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 875-7555
Inspired entrèes are backed by great wines and a myriad of martini choices. And of course, there’s the romantic location— smack dab on Keawakapu Beach. Italian. B, L, H, D, R. $–$$$
SEASCAPE RESTAURANT Maui Ocean Center, 192 S. Mā‘alaea Rd., Mā‘alaea, 270-7068
Adjacent to an award-winning aquarium, Seascape serves harbor views with a hearty side of aloha. Mahimahi sandwiches with fresh cabbage slaw, half-pound burgers and veggie selections. Save room for Maui Mud Pie: coffee ice cream topped with fudge. American. L (daily), H, D (Sat/Sun only). $$–$$$
SPAGO Four Seasons Resort, 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 874-8000
Start with fresh poke nestled in crunchy sesame-miso cones, and move on to the exotic notes of anise, cinnamon, and pineapple-caramelized pork chop. Chef Peleg will have you singing his praises. Pacific Rim. D, N. $$–$$$
TANPOPO 1215 S. Kīhei Rd., #F, Kīhei, 446-3038
Lunch offerings include ramen, Japanese-
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G U I D E
style chicken curry, California rolls and beef burgers. Dinner goes Italian and Japanese, with pastas, flatbreads, sashimi, sushi and tempura. Japanese Fusion. L, D. $–$$$
D I N I N G
OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 12 MIDNIGHT Happy Hour From 3 pm - 6 pm & 9 pm - 12 am 100 Wailea Ike Drive Located across from the Wailea Blue Golf Course Pro Shop
THREE’S BAR & GRILL
1945-G S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei, 879-3133
Three’s serves eggs Benedict six ways, like seared ‘ahi, smoked salmon, and prime rib. For lunch, try Peruvian pork tacos or signature ramen; for dinner, truffle-yakimarinated flatiron steak. Follow their food truck on Facebook. Pacific Rim/Southwest. B, L, H, D. $$–$$$
TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR The Shops at Wailea, 3750 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 875-9983
Who’d guess a clothing company could deliver such delish pork sandwiches and Caribbean-inspired libations? Caribbean/Pacific Rim. L, H, D, N. $–$$
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE
Enjoy delicious pizza in our open-air location in the heart of Wailea. Build your own pizza made with whole wheat crust. We also offer a variety of salads, pastas, and appetizers and a fun bar area featuring twice daily drink specials. We are passionate about using fresh, local, organic and sustainable products when available. Takeout & Delivery: 808.874.7499
ManolisPizzaCompany.com
61 S. Kīhei Rd., Kīhei
See West Side listing.
CENTRAL BISTRO CASANOVA 33 Lono Ave., Kahului, 873-3650
This downtown bistro serves paella for two, fresh-cut French fries, and burrata Caprese, along with many fresh pasta dishes. Best pau hana (happy hour) in Kahului. Mediterranean. L, H, D. $–$$
CAFÉ O’LEI, DUNES AT MAUI LANI 1333 Maui Lani Pkwy., Kahului, 877-0073
Same great fare as the South Shore location, served beside a links golf course overlooking West Maui’s mountain. American/Pacific Rim. B, L, H, D. $$
DA KITCHEN Triangle Square, 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 871-7782
See South Shore listing.
FORK & SALAD Pu‘unene Shopping Center, 120 Ho‘okele St. Unit 330, Kahului. 793-3256
See South Shore listing.
MAUI COFFEE ROASTERS 444 Hāna Hwy., Kahului, 877-CUPS (2877)
Pastries, muffins, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and lox and bagels made to order. Fresh-roasted coffee beans set this experience above the average. “Happy Cappy Hour” from 2 to 6 p.m. Coffee Shop. B, L, H. $
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Lahaina Fried Soup Pohole Salad HAPA RAMEN STAR UDON AHI AVO GARLIC NOODLES Singapore Noodles Steamed Pork Buns PAD THAI malasadas SAKE COCKTAILS
HAWAIʻI–INSPIRED
FILIPINO ASIAN CUISINE SHORT RIBS - HASH LOCO MOCO MAUI CATTLE COMPANY BURGER FISH TACOS - FRESH POKE CRISPY PORK LUMPIA ROLLS STIR FRY VEGETABLE PANCIT NOODLES
FRESH HOUSE MADE NOODLES & ASIAN SPECIALTIES SERVING LUNCH & DINNER
(808) 214- 5590
286 KUPUOHI STREET AT THE TOP OF LAHAINA BUSINESS PARK
RESERVATIONS & TAKE-OUT
808.667.5400
LOCATIONS AT
NAPILI PLAZA WHALERʻS VILLAGE
Rosé all Day AT
NAPILI
B AY
Experience our new menu along with a vibrant collection of Rosé wine
Celebrating Over 55 Years of Aloha at Napili Kai Beach Resort 5900 Lower Honoapiilani Rd • Napili • Maui • Hawaii 96761 • 808.669.1500 • SeaHouseMaui.com @NapiliKai @Napili_Kai
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G U I D E
MAUI FRESH STREATERY
BEST SUSHI
MauiFreshStreatery.com, 344-7929
As Seen on
Guy Fieri’s
2017, 2018, 2019
“Triple D”
D I N I N G
‘Aipono Award Winner
‘Aipono’s 2019 Chef of the Year Kyle Kawakami rocks the street-food scene with imaginative poutine, ethnic dishes from around the world, and a modern take on local fare. Follow him on Facebook for locations. Food Truck. L. $
THE MILL HOUSE AT MAUI TROPICAL PLANTATION 1670 Honoapi‘ilani Hwy., Waikapū, 270-0333
Dine at the coffee shop, restaurant, or weekend chef’s table, and discover some of Maui’s most creative culinary fare, from creamy coconut jook with Kula Farm green beans, to beef ragu gnocchi with thyme curd. Great desserts, too! (See story on page 100.) Hawai‘i Regional. B, L, H, D. $–$$$
ONLY ONO Kahului, 777-9026
Crispy-skin Chinese-style roast pork and duck, bao pork buns, plate lunches smoked brisket, too! Only delicious! Location varies; download menu and schedule at OnlyOnoBBQ.com. Chinese–American. L, D. $
Logo wear available
Azeka Place, Mauka
(808) 891-MISO (6476)
1279 South Kihei Rd. #108, Kihei
POI BY THE POUND
MisoPhat.com
430 Kele St., Kahului, 283-9381
Eat like a local. So ‘ono! Hawaiian. B, L, D. $
TOP
10
RESTAURANTS
in america tripadvisor 2018
RESTAURANT
of the
YEAR
- maui no ka oi magazine 2018
808.667.5117
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127 lahainaluna road, lahaina, maui, hawaii 96761
www.lahainagrill .com
D I N I N G
A SAIGON CAFE 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 243-9560
G U I D E
Squeeze into a booth and order a clay pot, the Vietnamese burrito, or lemongrass curry. Vietnamese. L, D. $
SAM SATO’S 1750 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, 244-7124
This beloved Maui restaurant sets the standard for dry mein, saimin and chow fun. Asian B, L. $
THAI MEE UP Plate Lunch Marketplace, 591 Haleakalā Hwy., Kahului, 214-3369
Addictive fried pork ribs and luscious pad Thai noodles. Curry, too! Thai, Food Truck. L, D. $
TIKI TIKI THAI CUISINE 395 Dairy Rd., Kahului, 893-0026
See West Side listing.
TIN ROOF MAUI 360 Papa Pl., Kahului, 868-0753
Sheldon Simeon of Top Chef fame builds memorable kau kau bowls filled with his savory offerings: furikake-crusted seared salmon; Kaua‘i prawns in garlic butter; and a killer spicy fried chicken sandwich. Pacific Rim. L. $
Urban & hip neighborhood gathering place serving Italian comfort food. Located in the heart of Kapalua Resort.
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LUNCH: Mon–Fri 11:00am–2:30pm Mid Day Menu: Everyday 2:30pm-5:00pm HAPPY HOUR: Starting @ 2:30 pm WEEKEND BRUNCH/LUNCH: Sat & Sun 10:00 am–2:00pm LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR: Starting @ 9:00 pm DINNER: Nightly 5:30 pm 808-667-CIAO (2426) TavernaMaui.com 2000 Village Rd, Kapalua Resort
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G U I D E
TJ’S WAREHOUSE
875 Alua St., Wailuku, 244-7311
D I N I N G
Located in Wailuku Industrial Park, TJ’s serves plate lunch to go: chicken katsu, fried saba (mackerel), and a hot line of daily specials, like potato croquettes, nishime and poke, too. Asian. B, L. $
ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE 333 Dairy Rd., Kahului Second Central Maui location: 58 Maui Lani Pkwy., Wailuku
See West Side listing.
UMI MAUI 1951 Vineyard St., Wailuku, 269-1802
This sushi bar brings creative presentations to old Wailuku town. Japanese. D, $–$$
WAILUKU COFFEE COMPANY 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 495-0259
Ice cream, salads, sandwiches and espresso, all served in a relaxed and eclectic setting. Coffee Shop. B, L.
UPCOUNTRY GRANDMA’S COFFEE HOUSE 9232 Kula Hwy., Kēōkea, 878-2140
The eggs Benedict and madefrom-scratch baked goods are worth the trek. For lunch, enjoy a hamburger with Swiss cheese and caramelized onion. Coffee Shop/Snacks. B, L, $–$$
LA PROVENCE 5355 Lower Kula Rd., Kula, 878-1313
Perfect croissants, fruit tarts, and blueberry-mango scones. On weekends, muscle past long distance cyclists to order a Benedict or salmon-pesto crêpe. French/Bakery. Cash only. B (Wed-Fri), BR (Sat-Sun), L (Wed-Fri), D (Thur-Sun). $
LUMERIA’S WOODEN CRATE 1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 579-8877
Fresh, locally caught fish and other healthy fare highlight a menu that changes daily.
Produce grown on Lumeria’s grounds are the basis for some of the garden dishes served at this charming retreat. Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. $$–$$$$
O‘O FARM 651 Waipoli Rd., Kula Call Pacific’O Restaurant, 6674341, to reserve a culinary
tour. Learn about organic gardening and coffee roasting, and enjoy a breakfast veggie frittata, bread from the woodburning oven, and freshroasted coffee in this bucolic setting. Lunch offers chicken and fish entrées, roasted veggies and dessert. American. B, L. $$$$
ULUPALAKUA RANCH STORE & GRILL 14800 Pi‘ilani Hwy., ‘Ulupalakua, 878-2561 Across the road from MauiWine, find great deli fare, hot-off-the-grill lamb burger with tzatziki, grass-fed venison or beef burgers. Plus homestyle chili and rice, or kālua-pork plate lunch. American. L, D. $
Two exciting farm tours in one unique setting
GOURMET LUNCH
SEED to CUP
Explore our gardens and enjoy a gourmet lunch prepared in your presence with freshly harvested natural produce.
Learn about the growing and roasting of coffee beans and conclude with the “perfect cappuccino” .
TOURS ARE WEEKDAYS 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.
O’o Farm is the exclusive farm for Pacific’O Restaurant in Lahaina By Reservation only: 808.667.4341 • www.oofarm.com
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CHOICE HEALTH BAR
Beard nominee for Best Restaurant. Hawaiian/Seafood. L, D, RR. $$–$$$$
WAILUKU COFFEE CO. Aloha Aina Center., 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 868-3229
D I N I N G
NORTH SHORE
G U I D E
Downtown goes “county” with a second location, still serving the See West Side listing. NUKA same tasty salads, sandwiches, 780 Ha‘ikū Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-2939 ice cream and espresso. COLLEEN’S Izakaya food with flavor and Coffee Shop. B, L. $ 810 Kokomo Rd., Ha‘ikū, 575-9211 style. Start with paper-thin fried Slip into a comfy booth and enjoy gobo chips, then ‘ahi tataki with a roasted eggplant sndwich on ponzu sauce. The tempura HĀNA homemade bread. The pizza is a shrimp udon is light and crispy. well-loved standard. Save room for black-sesame or BAREFOOT CAFÉ Kid-friendly. American/ green-tea ice cream. 1632 Keawa Pl., Hāna, 446-5732 Pizza. B, L, H, D. $$ Japanese. D. $$–$$$ Take out a breakfast like French toast or scrambled FLATBREAD COMPANY NYLOS eggs with Portuguese 89 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8989 115 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia, 579-3354 sausage. Midday, get a burger Big booths, a snazzy bar Fresh out of the gate, this or mahimahi plate lunch to go. scene, and organic flatbreads fine-dining restaurant has Pacific Rim. B, L. $ laden with maple-fennel been garnering rave reviews sausage and roasted veggies. on the coconut wireless for its THE PRESERVE Kid-friendly. Pizza. menu and casual ambiance. KITCHEN + BAR L, D, N. $$ International. L, D, R. $$$ Travaasa Hana Resort, 5031 Hāna Hwy., Hāna, 359-2401 MAMA’S FISH HOUSE PĀ‘IA FISH MARKET Hāna-sourced fish and 799 Poho Pl., Kū‘au, 579-8488 100 Hāna Hwy., Pā‘ia, 579-8030 produce ground an original Mama’s is famous for its Huge slabs of fish served with menu. Try a craft cocktail with heart-stirring windward coleslaw on burger buns explain fresh juices and sours. setting and Polynesianthe line out the door. Order your Pacific Rim. B, L, D, R. inspired cuisine. Each detail ‘ahi burger rare and squeeze in $–$$$ evokes old-time island beside surfers and families. hospitality; in 2018, this Maui Kid-friendly. Seafood. L, D. $ institution became a James 11 Baldwin Avenue, Pā‘ia, 661-7711
100% Extra Virgin Maui Olive Oil Unfiltered, cold pressed Grown & hand harvested on Haleakalā, Maui Artisanal processing Visit our Farmstand in Kula on Waipoli Road
www.MauiOlive.com Info@MauiOlive.com
Follow us TeddysBiggerBurgersLahaina TeddysBiggerBurgersLahaina TeddyBurgerMaui
Restaurant open daily 10am – 9pm 335 Keawe St, Lahaina Gateway 808-661-9111
MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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ENTER TO WIN
a holiday prize package worth over $950 from Maui Ocean Center, Shops at the Grand Wailea, Whalers Village Shopping Center, Alpha Maui Watch and Hawaii’s Heritage Jewelers.
VISIT MAUIMAGAZINE.NET/CONTESTS TO SEE WHAT’S IN THE BAG
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Just steps from the water’s edge. Fresh caught fish, exotic flavors & organic produce. Contemporary Pacific cuisine at its best!
Pacific’O sets the standard for Farm-to-Table Cuisine with the freshest produce supplied by their own farm in Kula. Learn more about the farm at www.oofarm.com
The farm also offers coffee and lunch tours. 505 Front St, Lahaina | Reservations 808.667.4341 | www.pacificomaui.com
MAUI NŌ KA ’OI » NOV-DEC 2019
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W H O
M A H I ’A I MUSIC & FO O D F E ST I VA L
W H O ' S
M AU I C O U N T RY C LU B AU G U ST 24
Tony & Thea Engesser
Mari & Derek Brown
Emma Rehfeld, Toby Pechen
Jeanie Vance, Dana Burianova
Shae Martin & Clayton Matchett
Irene & Vince Mina
Cameron McElroy, Ashley Toth
Ron Kennedy, Maureen Datta, Micah Nelson, Gail & Clarence Barber
Ryan Funasaki, Cheryllani McCormack
Kaili Scheer, DeWitt Lickle
Gerry Ross, Bobby Pahia
H YAT T R EG E N CY’S DRIVE FO R A CURE
K Ā’A N A PA L I G O L F C O U RS E S AU G U ST 3 0 Jenn Skeber, Sherry Althouse
Kathleen Young, Sutee Nitakorn, Fred Findlen, Amanda Stevens, Dave MacLean
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Hyatt Regency Maui staff and friends participate in the August 30th Drive for a Cure, a benefit for Susan G. Komen Hawaii.
THE MAGAZINE FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE MAUI SUBSCRIBE.MAUIMAGAZINE.NET 844-808-MAUI (6284)
C A L E N D A R
3, 12/1
2
DAY OF HOPE RUN Four Seasons Resort Maui This thirtieth annual 10k run and 5k run/walk takes participants through scenic Wailea and Mākena, finishing at Four Seasons’ oceanfront lawn. 6:30 a.m. 3900 Wailea
UPCOUNTRY SUNDAYS ACOUSTIC STYLE Casanova Italian Restaurant and Deli Volunteer-run Mana‘o Radio goes live during this benefit that showcases local and visiting musicians the first Sunday of every month. 2–5 p.m. 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao; 242-5666; ManaoRadio.com
3
FRIDAY TOWN PARTIES
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DINE OUT FOR HOSPICE MAUI Restaurants across the island will donate proceeds from today’s sales to the nonprofit organization that provides compassionate end-of-life care.
LEI NĀHONOAPI‘ILANI– SONGS OF WEST MAUI Castle Theater, MACC 2 Local entertainers share their HAWAIIAN AIRLINES aloha for the wahi pana (sacred For participating restaurants, visit MADE IN MAUI COUNTY places) of West Maui through HospiceMaui.org. FESTIVAL song, hula, and storytelling. A&B Amphitheater, MACC Proceeds benefit Nā Leo Kālele, 14 This popular festival highWest Maui’s Hawaiian-language WEAVE lights some of Maui County’s immersion program. 7 p.m. One Castle Theater, MACC Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; Native American (Seneca N O V E M B E R favorite products—from specialty foods and fresh MauiArts.org Nation) choreographer Rosy Simas breathes life into this THROUGH 12/28 produce to jewelry and collectibles. Activities include 7–9 dance project, weaving story, NĀ AKUA ĀKEA PROJECT product demos, fashion show, HULA O NĀ KEIKI dance, images and sound. 7:30 Hale Hō‘ike‘ie at the prize drawings and more. Kā‘anapali Beach Hotel p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; Bailey House 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Can’t wait Some of the finest young 242-7469; MauiArts.org until Saturday? Purchase an dancers from Hawai‘i and Exclusive Shopping Day ticket beyond compete in ancient 15 ($35) for admission on Nov. 1, and modern hula, chant, and LITTLE CHEF BIG CHEF 1:30–6 p.m. One Cameron Way, costume. The weekend also Fairmont Kea Lani Kahului; 242-7469; MadeInMaui features demos and displays This annual fundraiser for CountyFestival.com of Hawaiian arts and crafts. Boys & Girls Clubs of Maui 2525 Kā‘anapali Pkwy., Kā‘anapali; feaures food, friendly compeCraftsmanship and culture 2 661-0011; KHBMaui.com tition, a silent auction, and live shine in this exhibit featuring entertainment. Youth teams woven ki‘i (images), traditional ARBOR DAY HAWAIIAN TREE GIVEAWAY 8 are paired with top Maui chefs fishtraps and baskets. Maui Nui Botanical Gardens ARTIST 2 ARTIST to create pūpū (appetizers) 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Monday–Saturday. To celebrate Arbor Day, the McCoy Studio Theater, MACC for guests. 6–9:30 p.m. 4100 2375A Main St., Wailuku; Gardens will give away 1,000 Multi Nā Hōkū Hanohano Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea; MauiMuseum.com native Hawaiian trees, one Award-winner Henry Kapono 242-4363; BGCMaui.org per person. Enjoy plant-care is joined by fellow musician THROUGH 11/2 demonstrations and talk Alx Kawakami to celebrate the 16 MĀLAMA WAO AKUA music of James Taylor. CHINESE HERITAGE Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center with experts. 9 a.m.–noon. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-2798; 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, FESTIVAL The Hui and East Maui Watershed Partnership MNBG.org Kahului Wo Hing Museum Celebrate the man known collaborate on this multime3 9 as “the father of modern dia exhibition to raise awareBLACK FLAG China” with exhibits and ness about the importance of HOLOHOLO KA‘A presentations honoring the protecting native species and UH–Maui College parking lot Mulligans on the Blue This American punk-rock life of Sun Yat-sen. Festivities the forested upper regions band performs in concert include Chinese food booths, of our islands’ watersheds. for the 21-and-older crowd. cultural activities, lei ceremo9 a.m.–4 p.m. daily. 2841 Baldwin Doors open at 6 p.m. 100 Kuakahi ny, Chinese lantern display Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; St., Wailea; 874-1131; and more. 4–8 p.m. 858 Front HuiNoeau.com Alanui Dr., Wailea; 874-8000; DayOfHopeMaui.com
MulligansOnTheBlue.com
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SECOND FRIDAY LAHAINA 11/8, 12/13 FOURTH FRIDAY KĪHEI 11/22, 12/27 FIFTH FRIDAY LĀNA‘I 11/29
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HAE HAWAI‘I McCoy Studio Theater, MACC During the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy and days leading up to annexation, a young thief is recruited to protect the unifying symbol of the kingdom: the Hawaiian flag. Post-film panel with film director Ty Sanga. 3 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org
20–12/24
HUI HOLIDAYS Hui No‘eau Visual Arts Center This artisan showcase features jewelry, ceramics, paintings, photography, fiber, holiday ornaments, Hui Print Collection calendars and more. Open daily, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. On December 4, 5–8 p.m., Hui Holidays First Night includes shopping, drinks and appetizers, music and more. 2841 Baldwin Ave., Makawao; 572-6560; HuiNoeau.com
21–23
9 a.m.–1 p.m. UH-Maui College,
HAWAI‘I INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL UNIQUES GIFT GALLERY McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Schaefer International View features, documentaries Gallery, MACC and shorts from Asia, Hawai‘i This artists’ showcase features and other Pacific Islands made exceptional and affordable with authenticity by filmmakholiday gifts. 10 a.m.–5 p.m. ers from those cultures. One
310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului;
700 Halia Nakoa St., Wailuku;
daily. One Cameron Way, Kahului;
Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469;
244-5676
EkoluMusic.com
242-7469; MauiArts.org
MauiArts.org
Climb aboard and learn about unusual modes of transport —including emergency vehicles, heavy machinery, construction rigs and more— at this benefit for Pūnana Leo o Maui Preschool.
5–10 p.m. 55 Maka‘ena Place, Pukalani; CardenJamboree.com
MAUIMAGAZINE.NET
Restoration.org
FIRST FRIDAY WAILUKU 11/1, 12/6
EKOLU War Memorial Events Arena Celebrate twenty years of island music from Maui’s own Ekolu, and from Three Plus, Ho‘aikane, Lahaina Grown, Kohomua and more. 4:30 p.m.
CARDEN JAMBOREE Carden Academy Don your finest cowboy and cowgirl attire for this paniolothemed fundraiser for Carden Academy. Enjoy a BBQ dinner, country music, silent auction, and homemade-pie contest.
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St., Lahaina; 661-3262; Lahaina
Throughout the month, a different town in Maui County hosts music, artists’ demos, children’s activities and culinary wizards from 6 to 9 p.m. It’s a block party for residents and visitors alike. Parking and other info: MauiFridays.com
16–12/20
January 1-5, 2020
The Plantation Course | SentryTournamentOfChampions.com
Join Maui Stargazing for a science-based sunset and stargazing tour at Haleakalā Summit. View deep space objects through Maui’s largest portable telescope to see the visible planets, nebulae and star clusters of the Milky Way and galaxies beyond!
ASA ELLISON
C A L E N D A R
25–27
MAUI JIM MAUI INVITATIONAL Lahaina Civic Center Top collegiate teams battle it out at this Thanksgivingweekend event. Field includes host Chaminade, Georgia, Dayton, Virginia Tech, Kansas, Michigan State, BYU and UCLA. 1840 Honoapi'ilani Hwy., Lahaina; MauiInvitational.com.
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NOBLE CHEF Fairmont Kea Lani Top Maui chefs and University of Hawai‘i–Maui College culinary students present “A White Christmas” with gourmet cuisine, holiday-inspired cocktails, dessert finale and festive entertainment. Maui Nō Ka ‘Oi Magazine sponsors this event benefiting UHMC’s Culinary Arts Program. 6 p.m. 4100 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea. Reservations: NobleChef.Maui.Hawaii.edu
22–24
TURKEY TROT Rice Park Choose the eight- or sixteenmile course and earn those Thanksgiving calories guilt free. Sixteen-mile race begins at 6:30 a.m., eight-mile race at 8 a.m. 5700 Kula Hwy., Kula; VIRR.com
29–12/15
MATILDA THE MUSICAL Historic ‘Īao Theater Roald Dahl’s Tony Awardwinning musical reveals the anarchy of childhood, the power of imagination and the inspiring story of a girl who dreams of a better life. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; times vary.
SHANE VICTORINO CELEBRITY DINNER & GOLF CLASSIC Wailea Resort Festivities begin with a dinner, silent and live auctions at Grand Wailea Maui on Friday. On Saturday, Victorino and other celebrities hit the links at Wailea’s Gold Course, followed by Sunday’s awards ceremony and brunch at Grand Wailea Maui.
68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-
ShaneVictorinoFoundation.org
One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-
6969; MauiOnStage.com
DECEMBER DECEMBER JOY! Castle Theater, MACC Maui Choral Arts Association’s annual Christmas concert includes holiday classics, sing-alongs and new arrangements of old favorites. 3 p.m. 7469; MauiArts.org
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HARVEST FESTIVAL Kula Elementary School This annual fundraiser for Kula Elementary School features live entertainment, keiki activities, a country store, silent auction and more. 9 a.m.–4 p.m. 500 Kula Hwy., Kula; KulaPTA.org
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‘ENCHANTING’ EVENING OF KIRTAN Castle Theater, MACC Krishna Das and Ram Dass combine their talents for this concert that doubles as a food drive for Maui Food Bank. Bring organic canned or boxed food donations. 7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului;
SUP FILM FEST WORLD TOUR McCoy Studio Theater, MACC Selected short films showcase natural beauty, conservation, and the human spirit, all from the perspective of a stand-up paddleboard.
242-7469; MauiArts.org
7
7 p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului;
WREATH MAKING WITH NATIVE PLANTS Maui Nui Botanical Gardens Learn to make a wreath from native Hawaiian plants for the holidays. 150 Kanaloa Ave.,
242-7469; MauiArts.org
Kahului; 249-7469; MNBG.org
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SOLO SESSIONS: STEVE EARLE McCoy Studio Theater, MACC This three-time Grammy winner and singer/songwriter combines rock, country and folk sounds. 7:30 p.m. One
BMI MAUI SONGWRITERS FESTIVAL A&B Amphitheater, MACC Country superstar Miranda Lambert returns with Grammy-winner Maren Morris. Lineup includes Randy Houser, Lukas Nelson, Dustin Lynch, Kevin Griffin, Lucie Silvas, Lily Meola, and Tavana. 5:30 p.m. 150 Kanaloa Ave., Kahului; 249-7469; MauiArts.org
Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org
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WAR Castle Theater, MACC This funk band is known for hits “Spill the Wine,” “The World Is a Ghetto,” and “The Cisco Kid.” Dance floor open.
REBELUTION Yokouchi Pavilion, MACC BANYAN TREE LIGHTING This Grammy-nominated CEREMONY reggae band is known for Lahaina 7:30 p.m. One Cameron Way, its crafty melodies, socially Kahului; 242-7469; MauiArts.org conscious lyrics, and savvy musicianship. Joining them 29 is special guest Through the Roots. 7:30 p.m. 150 Kanaloa Ave., TOM SEGURA Castle Theater, MACC Kahului; 249-7469; MauiArts.org Actor, comedian and writer Tom Segura is known for his 13 Festivities begin at 9 a.m. with GREEN ROOM: ROBERT Netflix specials “Disgraceful,” the Maui Made Holiday Gift HAAS & FORREST GANDER “Mostly Stories,” and “ComFair in Campbell Park, with McCoy Studio Theater, MACC pletely Normal.” 7 p.m. One kids’ activities noon–4 p.m., Cameron Way, Kahului; 242-7469; The Merwin Conservancy and photos with Santa 2–4 presents renowned poets and MauiArts.org p.m. At 5:45, the party moves translators Robert Hass and to Banyan Tree Park with 30 Forrest Gander. Book signing music by the Lahainaluna BILL MAHER and reception follow. 7 p.m. High School Band, followed Castle Theater, MACC One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242by the tree-lighting ceremony. 7469; MauiArts.org Maher delivers biting political Banyan Tree Park, 671 Front St., wit and social commentary, Lahaina; Campbell Park, 680 Front 15 joined by guest comics Sarah St., Lahaina; VisitLahaina.com HOLIDAY POPS Silverman and Larry Miller. 8 Castle Theater, MACC p.m. One Cameron Way, Kahului; 11 Under the baton of music 242-7469; MauiArts.org ‘AIPONO WINE DINNER director James Durham, the Leis Family Class Act Maui Pops Orchestra presents Restaurant, UHMC a festive concert featuring JANUARY Savor a five-course dinner, and pianist David Benoit and wines paired by Charles Fredy vocalist Sara Gazarek. 3 p.m. 1–5 of Chambers & Chambers One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242SENTRY TOURNAMENT Wine Merchants. A portion 7469; MauiArts.org OF CHAMPIONS of the proceeds benefits the Plantation Golf Course, University of Hawai‘i Maui 20 Kapalua College Culinary Arts Program. KINGSTON TRIO Come root (shh—quietly) for this 310 W. Ka‘ahumanu Ave., Kahului; McCoy Studio Theater, MACC exclusive field of champions— 984-3280 The three current members— each a 2019 PGA Tour winner. Mike Marvin, Tim GorelangSentryTournamentOfChampions.com 12 ton, and Don Marovich— MAUI HOLIDAY perform many of the Trio’s 5–6 FRIENDSHIP JAM best-loved songs. 7:30 p.m. MAUI YOGA FESTIVAL Historic 'Īao Theater One Cameron Way, Kahului; 242Royal Lahaina Resort This inaugural concert to 7469; MauiArts.org Explore yoga sessions, benefit Best Buddies Hawaii Hawaiian chanting classes, lei features Nā Hōkū Hanohano 21–22 making, and wellness classes. Award-winner Amy Hānaiali‘i WINTER CONCERT 9 a.m.–sunset. 2780 Keka‘a Drive, and “Hawaiian reggae folk Historic ‘Īao Theater Kā‘anapali; MauiYogaFestival.com rock” band Kanekoa, followed The Maui Chamber Orchestra by an after-party at Wai Bar, plays holiday favorites. Email your event to Calendar@ across the street from the Saturday, 7:30 p.m.; Sunday, MauiMagazine.net, or submit it theater. Jam 6–8 p.m., after-party 3 p.m. Join the musicians for a online at MauiMagazine.net/
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8–10 p.m. 68 N. Market St.,
discussion at 1:30 p.m. Sunday.
Wailuku; 242-6962;
68 N. Market St., Wailuku; 242-
BestBuddiesHawaii.org
6969; MauiOnStage.com
maui-events. Photos for print must be 300 dpi. Listings are free, subject to editing, and used as space permits.
I T I N E R A R Y STORY BY L E H I A A PA N A | ILLUSTRATION BY C . M . B U T Z E R
PERFECT DAY Follow your local guide and trade the holiday hustle and bustle for an Upcountry itinerary filled with leisurely discoveries.
Freshies Maui
8 A.M. While the rest of
Makawao town eases into the day, fuel up with a hearty breakfast at this garden café in the shade of a sprawling Argentinian coral tree. With options like huevos rancheros, French toast, and housemade biscuits and gravy, it feels like Sunday brunch any day you arrive. FreshiesMaui.com
Haku Maui
10 A.M. Take the winding, bamboo-lined path that leads to the floral wonderland that is Haku Maui, where local girl Britney Texeira crafts Hawaiianstyle headpieces that embody elegance and aloha. Join one of several workshops she conducts throughout the month or schedule a private session, which includes a palette of floral greenery, about two hours of expert instruction, and a handmade adornment to take home. HakuMaui.com
Ulupalakua Ranch Store 1 P.M. Flanked by sweeping
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ocean and mountain views, the serpentine drive to this out-of-the-way lunch spot is a destination unto itself. Ulupalakua Ranch Store is in the heart of paniolo (cowboy) country, and this quaint outpost serves legendary burgers made from venison, beef, lamb and elk raised a stone’s throw away. While you wait, browse the paniolo-themed gear and gifts, then grab a seat at a picnic table and enjoy lunch with a view. UlupalakuaRanch.com
MauiWine
2:15 P.M. Stroll across the road to Maui’s winery for the 2:15 p.m. Old Jail Tasting. Sample exclusive bottlings in the building that served as the office of James Makee, the whaling captain who founded Rose Ranch—later Ulupalakua Ranch—in the mid-1800s. (The Makee family hosted lavish events at the ranch, and rowdy partygoers were reportedly sent to the building’s cellar “jail” to sober up.) Reservations are required for the Old Jail
Tasting, but sips are available throughout the day at the King’s Cottage, built in the 1870s for David Kalākaua, the affable Hawaiian royal known as Hawai‘i’s “Merrie Monarch.” Grab a map at the King’s Cottage and enjoy a relaxed self-guided tour of the storied property. MauiWine.com
Sun Yat-sen Park
5 P.M. This small but scenic park commemorates the life of Dr. Sun Yat-sen—known as “the father of modern China”—and his ties to Maui. Bronze statues and displays offer a self-guided history lesson set in nature. Located along Kula Highway at Kama‘ole Road
Kula Bistro
6 P.M. Italian comfort food shines at this beloved Upcountry eatery, where you can also BYOB. Now’s the time to uncork your favorite MauiWine; or visit Morihara Store across the street for beer or wine to pair with your meal. Cheers to a Perfect Day! KulaBistro.com
Follow Lehia Apana on her “Perfect Day” at MauiMagazine.net/relaxing-upcountry.
Celebrating Three Generations of Excellence Kamaʻaina companies like Akina Tours & Transportation are what make the valley isle, “Maui Nō Ka ʻOi.” This third-generation, family-owned business was created to serve the community’s local transportation needs. Hoʻomaikaʻi Akina ʻohana on 90 years of service! Pasha Hawaii, also a third-generation, family-owned business, is honored to be called your ocean carrier, transporting your vehicles with care from the Mainland to Maui.