CULTURAL DIARY
August 2020
https://youtu.be/agCgvFTJeRs
01/08
BLACK I S KING
https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/black-is-king-beyonce-fashion/index.html
Beyoncé has released a visual album “Black is King” that is a tribute to African culture. The video features well known Black names from the show business world like Jay-Z, Childish Gambino, Naomi Campbell, Adut Akech or Lupita Nyong’o. An American artist shows aesthetics that is a reference to the African culture. Skilful combination of surroundings and styling create an impressing effect. Beyoncé’s stylizations created by Zerina Akers are the mix of the both global fashion houses and independent African brands. Because of the current events related to the death of George Floyd the video has even more powerful meaning. The video celebrates a cultural diversity and I believe we should all try to get the best out of each culture. As the video focuses mainly on the African culture, I think we should appreciate more Black artists and try to find out about Black History as on history lessons we focus mostly on White men, while omitting many other groups and among them the Blacks. In reference to the fashion I think it would be really cool to implement African patterns or garments’ silhouettes to the White culture society. I remember when once I was in a train with a woman wearing a beautiful dress typical for the African culture. It would be nice to have such a dress and promote this culture also as a White person.
Due to Coronavirus a new fashion trend has emerged – masks. After the 3-months lockdown we have finally left our homes but the world has not came back to the normality yet. No one knows how long will it all last. For this moment in most of the countries we are obligated to wear masks in the public spaces. Why not to wear the masks that appeal? Many fashion brands have already got this idea. Currently there is many brands on the market offering masks of various colours, patterns and fabrics. Although a mask is a necessity protecting us from the virus it can also be a fashion accessory.
h t t p s : / / w w w. v o g u e . f r / m o d e / article/covid19-ou-acheter-desjolis-masques-tissu-internet
02/08
GRETA THUNBERG The climate crisis is a part of our culture as it has an influence on everything. Starting from the introduction of new products made of biodegradable materials, through artists’ expressions and politics. Greta Thunberg is a very young activist that encourages people around the world to think about the environment when making everyday choices and also to fight for the planet and do not allow global leaders to ignore the issue that will determine the future of generations.
S I T AR TOO T N A T R O P IM O T T NO ARE
h t t p s : / / w w w. r o l lingstone.com/ politics/politics-features/greta-thunberg-climate-crisis-cover-965949/
S I T AR TOO T N A T R O P IM O T T NO E R A SH
03/08
O K L A F E N O
Falko One is an African graffiti artist that paints murals that interacts with their surroundings. Thanks to him numerous little towns in South Africa gained recognition and became tourists’ spots. The artist tries to make a graffiti coexist with the background and not to be a separate element that clash with it.
https://www.boredpanda.com/street-art-graffiti-south-africa-falko-fantastic/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic
The article underlines the lack of women in the hip-hip and rap world. According to the article it can be a consequence of male domination in the business and labels of this music genre as well as beacuse the group that listen to this kind of music are African-American or Latino men in the age of 18-24. Altough there is more and more great female rappers the large majority of the charts is occupied by men. Unfortunatelly, in the hip-hop industry sexism i salso visible in relevance to lyrics. When Nicky Minaj sang about sex and money she was consided as „not worthy� to be honoured, while when Migos rhymes about sex, drugs and violence it is fine. Also, there is some particular artistic image imposed on the female artists. This is why Cardi B is more popular Missy Elliot for example. Media should pay more attention to the female rappers that are still on margins.
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20191007-why-are-there-so-few-women-in-best-of-hip-hop-polls
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The interview with one of my favourite female rappers – Chilla. In the interview she talks about the stereotypes in the rap/hip-hop industry concerning women, discrimination and her identity.
chilla chilla chilla
https://youtu.be/DHUKs9SedBA
04/08
Shocking true about private life and career of Coco Chanel, in which we discover the dark sides of the famous designer. The book written by Hal Vaughan - an American solider during the Second World War that describes Chanel as horizontal collaborator and obstinate antiSemite. What a style icon really was like, can surprise.
MILLION DOLLAR BABY Clint Eastwood’s „Million Dollar Baby” is a masterpiece, pure and simple, deep and true. It tells the story of an aging fight trainer and a hillbilly girl who thinks she can be a boxer. It is narrated by a former boxer who is the trainer’s best friend. But it’s not a boxing movie. It is a movie about a boxer. A movie that shows the whole mix of emotions, fighting against ourselves and our weeknesses, and the power of dreams and determination.
PE
HO
The 26 September issues of Vogue around the world is dedicated to theme around hope. A director of Chief of each edition has chosen a image that accoding to them illustrates this term. As everyone has their own interpretation the chosen photos are very diversed.
https://www.vogue.fr/mode/galerie/hope-images-espoir-choisies-par-26-redacteurs-en-chef-de-vogue
05/08
https://www.vogue.pl/a/digitalsyndication-z-tajwanskiej-pralni-na-instagram
The article is dedicated to Chang Wan-ji and Hsu Sho-er – a Taiwanian couple in their 80s, who together with their grandson - Reef Chang launched an Instagram account where they publish photos of the outfits made out of the clothes left in the laundry they own. The creativity of the couple should be appreciated. The couple not only boost mood and make us smile but also encourages to buy second hand clothes and shows it is not that difficult to create really impressive sets out of them.
@wantshowasyoung
06/08
Strandkorb A Strandkorb (from German, lit. meaning: ‚beach basket’; Danish: strandkurv; English: ‚hooded beach chair’) is a special hooded windbreak seating furniture used at vacation and seaside resorts, constructed from wicker, wood panels and canvas, usually seating up to two people, with reclining backrests. It was designed to provide comfort seating and shelter from wind, rain, sand gusts and sunburn on beach seafront resorts frequented by tourists. A Strandkorb were very popular especially in the 20s at NorthSea and Baltic Sea. The one from the photo I remarked on the Polish seaside.
LET’S CELEBRATE LOVE !
07/08
The photos from the exhibition are dedicated to homosexual couples. Its author – a Polish photographer Pamela Porwen has named the project „Homosexual Weddings” and on the photos illustrates love and tenderness of the real couples of the same sex. Among the couples that took part in the project we can see vicepresident of Warsaw – Paweł Rabiej with his partner, personal trainer – Karolina Brzuszczyńska with her girlfriend and more personalities from show business. The exhibition was presented in „Monopol” Art Gallery in Warsaw and was frequently visited.
https://k-mag.pl/ a r t i c l e / wystawa-zdjec-malzenstw-homoseksualnych-zostala-juz-zdjeta-teraz-wszystkie-fotografie-obejrzycie-u-nas
08/08
„I no longer want to write about the sorrows that the feminine has caused me.” He announces it bluntly in the first verse of La Fièvre, his launch single, Chanter l’Amour, it’s over for Julien Doré. Make way for a new register, ecologically committed, with enough self-mockery to avoid the moralizing pitfall. Also less selfcentered, Aimée nevertheless reveals the singer’s doubts, flaws and paradoxes in the face of a world he now scrutinizes from his refuge in the Cévennes. A return to his native South which is reflected on a more introspective album, with much less urban influences.
09/08
Rayan Bingham works in a company that fires people. A lot of his time he spend on airports, as his job demands a lot of travelling. One day, the new plan that could let emplyees spend more time at home and limit journeys is considered. On the contrary to the others Rayan cannot imagine his life without constant movement. What the movie really is about is lifestyle choices, and relationship choices, choosing independence and freedom versus commitment and well established life.
10/08
National Museum in Poznan is one of the most important useums in Poland. In the museum I could find there collections of Polish and European works (from the Middle Ages to the 20th century), and in the Antiquities section there are collections of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and pre-Columbian cultures. What appealed to me the most however, were the paintings from XX century. The museum is really big and the works are well exposed.
11/08
Arnaud Vaillant Sebastien Meyer
&
Arnaud Vaillant and Sebastien Meyer launched their own brand – Coperni. Its name is cames from Copernic. The name came about for a reason. The collections created by the designers are inspired by technology and innovation. Their design clothes that are pretty futuristic while still wearable and comfortable. Inspired by the digital world during the confinement caused by Covid-19 they have created digital games and apps to reinforce their relation with clients.
https://i-d.vice.com/fr/article/xg84mj/dans-le-radar-i-d-coperni-retour-vers-le-futur
https://www.gqmagazine.fr/pop-culture/article/le-masque-de-protection-le-plus-cher-du-monde-coute-13-million-deuros
Yvel - an Israeli jewellery brand has already realised the most expensive mask on the world. Worth 1,5 million dollars mask is made of white gold and embellished by black and white diamonds. It was ordered by a Chinese businessman. The man gave two requirements: firstly – it must protect, secondly – it should be the most expensive mask on the world. When the photo of the masterpiece mask was published on the company’s Twitter account, it was strongly criticised. No wonder, instead of the golden mask thousands of normal mask for suffering people could be produced.
12/08
FW 2021
https://www.vogue.pl/a/najwazniejsze-trendy-na-sezon-jesien-zima-2020-2021-cz-1
Imperfect, vulnerable, sensitive, ambiguous. This is how is the man presented by Harley Weir – a London based photographer that has released a book dedicated to the masculinity understood in less conventional way . The photos took by him transmit some erotic atmosphere, that stereotypically is mainly associated with a female body. “The cliché
13/08
https://numero.com/fr/numeroart/harley-weir-masculinite-me-too-gender-fluid-identite-stereotypes-exposition-londres-barbican-gallery#_
14/08
https://www.vogue.com/article/black-artists-life-in-america
As a Black man in America, no matter my status or disposition, George Floyd’s story could have been my story, and I too would have been screaming out for my mother’s protection and refuge. The truth of the matter is that, at any given point or time, such a tragic end could, no doubt, come to me, simply based on the color of my skin. In effect, George Floyd’s story is my story. Nathaniel Mary Quinn
The article presents artworks of 14 Black Americans and stories behind them. The artists take voice to speak up about their feelings and fears resulting from discrimination. Largely, the article is also dedicated to women, as in 2020 we celebrate 100 years of 19th amendment allowing women to vote in elections, and we are not conscious how important role in this fight played Black women. The article talks about stereotypes and injustices.
Gosia Hebra, Michał Loba, Ola Jasionowska and other Polish illustrators took stand for the homosexuals that face discrimination from the side of Polish government. They have created numerous posters in the colour of the rainbow to support this minority. All of the art pieces are available on the Tumbrl profile of Pogotowie Graficzne. The illustrators of Pogotowie Graficzne seem to always be up to date with the newest issues, as this is not their first action of this type. They have also created posters concerning presidential elections or independence of courts.
https://k-mag.pl/article/polscy-ilustratorzy-bronia-lgbtq-i-dziela-sie-plakatami-z-ktorych-kazdy-moze-skorzystac-sa-swietne
All available here: https://pogotowie.tumblr.com
15/08
WET ASS PUSSY https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/ep4kq4/cardi-b-onlyfans-wap-2020-interview
An interview with a one of the most famous female rappers – Cardi B, that has just released a new song “WAP” along with a music video. “WAP” that is an abbreviation of Wet Ass Pussy, has caused a lot of confusion in the internet. The song broke the YouTube record for most views in 24 hours by an all-female collaboration and Billboard called it “one of the best-selling debuts this century”. However, the song was strongly criticized by the conservative men. Cardi B wanted to encourage women to be confident with their sexuality.
https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/g5pkm4/guerxs-modelling-agency-anniversary
GĂźerxs GĂźerxs is a Mexican modelling agency launched by Maria Osado that changed the face of fashion in Mexico. The founder of the agency started to promote a kind of beauty that was invisible in the Mexican media. She scouted models of darker skin tone and unusual face features.
https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/wxqnkn/a-journey-through-sierra-leone
SIE R RA LE O NE
Photographer Rafael Pavarotti and i-D’s Fashion Editor at Large Ibrahim Kamara cast models from schools and community centres in this striking documentation of the West African nation.
https://www.vogue.com/article/letter-of-hope-sarah-mower
OP
16/08
For the September issue of Vogue 26 editions from over the world decided to dedicate this issue to the theme of hope. As we are all in this difficult time when nothing is predictable and everyone worries about their health and the health of their family, we need this hope. Not a passive hope, but an active hope – what is well described in the article. The article highlights also that this moment when we are all forced to slow down a bit the fashion industry should take some lessons. During this pandemic times we see how important it is to take care one for the other and how every little help counts. For instance, an initiative of fashion graduates from Prague to make masks for their community. Also during the pandemic luxury fashion houses bring help by not only producing hand sanitizers, but also opened their coffers, and began saving lives. The fashion industry that was mainly focused on making money should now reflect upon itself. Collection after collection, selling efficiency data etc. That all paused due to Covid-19. During this time young creatives came up with completely new idea show to present collections. This new, bold experimentations refreshed the fashion industry and indicated it which direction follow. In the article it is mentioned that the people with fresh, innovative, environment-centred attitude are needed in the business. Nowadays fashion brands must be transparent and honest with a customer.
Firooz Zahedi
On the occasion of a book publishing titled “Look at Me�, Firooz Zahedi was interviewed. In the interview he talks about his background and his conservative Iranian family and his fascination about Hollywood movies. He talks about two meetings with Andy Warhol and Elisabeth Tylor that for ever changed his life path and the photography style he prefers.
https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/firooz-zahedi-look-at-me
17/08
https://www.vogue.com/article/100-years-100-women-armory
100 years after women earned right to vote there are still some aspects in which women are not treated equally. Because of the this 100th anniversary Vogue US interviewed 100 women of different nationalities and professions. They talk about the history of women liberation as well challenges that we still, as women face.
WOM EN IN P O W E R
18/08
https://zwierciadlo.pl/lifestyle/teraz-one-polityka-w-rekach-kobiet
The article is dedicated to the female leaders: JacindaArdern – a Primer Minister of New Zealand, Zuzana Čaputová – a Prime Minister of Slovakia, Nicola Sturgeon – a Prime Minister of Scotland, Sanna Marin – a Prime Minister of Finland and Katrin Jakobs-dóttir a Primer Minister of Iceland. All of them thanks to sincerity and empathy managed well the global pandemic and lead their countries to the positice change.
C A R T A G E N A
19/08
CARTAGENA Cartagena is an ancient port city located in the Murcia region of south-eastern Spain, right on the Mediterranean Sea. Until the fourteenth century, the history of this city, important for the history of Spain, was very turbulent - Cartagena was conquered first by Rome, then by the Byzantine Empire, Visigoths and Arabs, to finally become the main base of the Spanish navy. However, despite the invasions and skirmishes that took place here, the oldest monuments of Cartagena have survived to this day. Traces of both its Roman and Byzantine history can be found in the city - the ruins of the Augusteum theater are close to what remains of the famous Byzantine wall that used to be the border between Cartagena and other provinces. Two things were important to the Carthaginians of old - war and faith. Therefore, the city is full of cathedrals and churches that are several centuries old. The beautiful-sounding bell of the Church of Santa Maria de Graca, built in the 13th century, still informs residents and tourists of what time it is today.
Psychological guide how to lead a better life according to the Japanese philosophy . In the book we can find guidelines how to overcome some neurotic symptomes like procrastination, phobias, shyness and many others. It also shows us how to celebrate every moment of life and be present here and now.
20/08
T N U R O H R I W G ? D L R WHO RUN THE O T W N U R O H WORLD?W RLD? G WO RUN O H W G ? D L R WO RUN O H W ? D L R O W U R O H W D L R WO R O H W D L R WO O H W O H W R O W O H W WO WH W
GIRLSSSS
https://www.vogue.com/article/baloch-sisters-halima-sarah-hossinzehi-basketball-style
! ? O S D H R I L R W G ! H O ? S T D W R L N E R U H O R T W O N E R H I U H R G W T ! ? O S D H R I L R W G ! O ? S T D W L N E R GIR U H O R T W O N E H I U H R G W T ! ? O S N D H R I L R W G ! O ? S D W R I L N E R G U H O R T W O N E H U H R G W ! ? O S N T D H R I L R W G ! O ? S D W R I L N E R U H O R ? G T W O N E H U H R W T ! ? O S N D H R U I L R W G ! O ? S D W R I L E R ? G H D O ? T L W D R N O E U H W R T ! S O U N R H R I RU TheS!article G W O ? H is about Bolach sisters – D R W L I ! R G S O D R I L W D? Halima R G and Sarah living in Canada that E O ? H D W T L E R N published photos that could pass without H O R U T R W O N their friend, Enoticed. AlongRU H H being with W T ! O S N H R U I L R R W G youngSwomen organized a photoshoot ! O ? O D W R I L E R G H where theyWpose on the basketball O ? T D O L N E R H U H R W T court dressed upO in traditional Bolach ! S N H R U I R R W G clothing. The aim of these photos was ! O ? O S D W R I L E R G H O ? to promote women active living among T W D O L N E H U H OR R W T Bolach people and let world hear about ! O S N H R U I R W G population the border with WO ? S! living on D HO this G R I L E R H O ? T Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan. W D L N E R H U H O R W T ! W O S N H R U I R W G S! D? WO HO
FASHION HAS NO AGE 21/08
A 56 years old model won Sport Illustrated contest and shows that age does not play a role and it is never too late to make your dreams come true. We will have an opportunity to see her in a famous Swimsuit Issue where feature top models like Gigi Hadid, Heidi Klum, Irina Shayk, Christie Brinkley, Carolyn Murphy and Lily Aldridge.
https://www.elle.pl/artykul/56-letnia-modelka-w-sesji-dla-sports-illustrated-zachwyca-figura-i-udowadnia-ze-wiek-to-tylko-liczba-200820063119
https://www.vice.com/en_uk/article/889enk/im-mourning-the-end-of-my-twenties-early-thanks-to-coronavirus
The article is about an influence of Coronavirus on Millennials that approach their thirties. In this such an important age, when most of the people make important life decisions, they stuck in the result of pandemic. With an unpredictable future even if they have some plans they can be destroyed in a moment.
PAUSE
22/08
23/08
https://www.90min.com/fr/posts/2288244-la-menace-a-evolue-chronologie-etevolution-des-maillots-de-football https://youtu.be/XHj_h4SvgfA
During the first steps of football (period of the reign of Victoria - England), the teams did not have jerseys. The players wore their own clothes and were distinguished by the color of their hats, belts or socks. Firstly, there were no shorts, but some sort of baggys held by a belt. Shin guards were quite an innovation in the 19th century. Sometimes, the referees wear ties.At the beginning of the nineteenth century, t-shirts were long-sleeved, with vertical stripes, and the length of the pants went up to well before the knees, about halfway up the thigh. The t-shirt was always worn in the pants. Football players wore heavyweight cotton t-shirts. Colours and patterns were bright, so they attenuated them when sport became more publicized. From the 1950s, the first lightweight short-sleeved t-shirts appeared. In the 1970s, most players had long and curly hair, and mustaches were all the rage. About t-shirts’s designs, the first droopy collars and V-neck have arrived, and the first stripes have been incorporated at shoulders’s level. Between 1980s and 1990s, the fashion industry had an important influence. Clubs no longer wore the same shirts from year to year, due to an increasing demand for new designs. Football players began to wear outfits combining t-shirts and shorts, quite tight.From the 90s, the outfits began to show more creativity. : new colours were used, and wavy and tiger stripes on t-shirts began to see the light. It was in the 2000s when science began to intervene seriously in design, seeking to make equipment lighter and skinny (reduce air resistance, as well as the ability of defenders to grip opponents), more confortable and adapted to working conditions : even for shoes. New equipments can absorb water and sweat without getting soggy. Shorts started to become longer, about knee height. Nowadays, the fabrics and materials used are in particular more expensive, and a whole business is set up and different well-known brands have a huge competition between them (Nike, Adidas, Puma ...). Advertising and sponsors are taking more and more space in designs.
https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-and-lifestyle/article/antisemitism-protest
o antisemitism
The article touches the subject of anti-Semitism that grows stronger. The author of a text – Eva Wiseman is a Jew and talk also about her own experience. Moreover, recently a British rapper Wiley published an offensive post of the social media in which he called the Jews to be shot. There should be no tolerance for anti-Semitism and any kind of discrimination. EveryLifeMatters.
say NO to say N
say NO to
24/08
O say NO t
POLICE VIOLENCE POLICE VIOLENCE
25/08
On May 25, 2020, the death of George Floyd, a 46-year-old black man, filmed and shared on social networks, provoked many protests in the United States, but also in Europe. However, in France and Germany, the debates are more moderate, in particular due to the absence of official figures on police violence. Figures facilitated by some governments such as ones of UK (2018-2019) show that authorities are controlling and arresting more black people than people of other color. They are more subject to police violence. The problem is based on the logic of the past linked to the colonial era and to racism in general. That’s called racial profiling. France or Germany don’t give official figures for counting cases, it seems to be taboo to avoid controversy and the indignation of citizens probably. Some organizations report cases on the Internet to locate racist acts of this type in Europe (example: Association „Vérité Pour Adama” („Truth for Adama”). Data is not easy to obtain in Europe, but more and more voices are being heard. There is still some way to go to have greater information transparency.
https://youtu.be/H0tGdbt4h_Y
M U R C I A Murcia „The city of mulberries”, famous for its silk weaving, mulberry trees grow here, hence the name. Sierra Espuna, Murcia’s highest mountain (1,585 m), is nearby. The city was founded in 825 by the emir Abderramon II. During the 12th and 13th centuries Murcia was inhabited by Muslims, Jews and Christians. But it is the Arabs that the city owes its current structure. The most famous building is the Gothic cathedral of Santa María, whose tower is 92 meters high. It is the second tallest tower in the country, only 4 meters smaller than the one in Seville. The cathedral was built on the ruins of a mosque. It has elements of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque art. Inside there is a sarcophagus of King Alfon the Wise. I like to look at the cathedral at night, admiring its beautiful lighting. Actually, only the cadedra impressed me. Yes, the old town is interesting, you must see Plaza de España, where the town hall, the courthouse and the collegiate church of St. Patrick’s Day. It is also worth visiting the cloisters of the university. Walk along the banks of the River Segura and cross the oldest bridge in Puente Viejo.
26/08
27/08
Give as back our girl
Interview with Lina, a sister of a young Saudi activist Loujain AlHathoul that was imprisoned for driving a car. Currently no one knows what is going on with her, as in June her family was able to contact her for the last time. The interview concern life and activity of Loujain and restrictions imposed there on women.
https://www.vice.com/fr/article/k7qy43/ma-soeur-a-ete-arretee-pouravoir-defendu-les-droits-des-femmes-saoudiennes
28/08
Arab Blues
A French comedy about a young Tunisian woman who grew up in France and decides to ome back to family sides and moreover to open there a psychoanalytical office. “Arab Blues� is a comedy full of light and juicy colours, which tells about the universal conflict of tradition and modernity, as well as collectively and individualism.
29/08
https://youtu.be/PnODw7GeYJE
A body-positivity campaign directed by Ilona Bielska and Kaya Szulewska that is dedicated to all the women that because of hair or their lack had a problem with self-acceptance. Kaya Szulewska, that has a body positive Instagram account and got the idea of realising such a campaign with her followers highlights that her aim is to liberate women from stereotypes and regard of others.
A film showing an extremely difficult life a 12-years Zain and his simblings living in Beirut, where they are completely neglected by the parents and have no idea what parential love means. Zain take cares of younger simblings and helps his younger sister Sahar to hide the evidence of her first period, as he knows that when the parends will find out that she can get pregnant they will marry her to abut 40 years old Assad. Zain makes plans to escape with his sister and start a new life. Unfortunately not everything goes as he wants to.
S P A N I S H
C U I S I N E
30/08
CARTAGENA CIVIL WAR Museum in Cartagena shows both everyday life and what happend on the front during Sapnish Civil War that took place in yeras 1936-1939. Left wing fought against right wing leaded by Francisco Franco. Due to the international political climate at the time, the war had many facets and was variously viewed as class struggle, a war of religion, a struggle between dictatorship and republican democracy, between revolution and counterrevolution, and between fascism and communism. It the museum we can see how brutal it was. Cartagena at this time was an important naval base and the Operations Centre for the Republican Fleet, hence a critical point for the nationalists. The town was strongly touched by the war.
A French fashion designer – Simon Porte Jacquemus has realised a photo album, where he published 234 shots taken using his Iphone. As the designer says the photos are not fashion shoots, but pictures documenting the moments of everyday life that fascinates the designer. In the album we can see numerous photos of fruits, flowers and people. For Jacquemus’ enthusiasts most photos can be already known, as he had posted them on Instagram.
JACQUEMUS
31/08
https://www.vogue.com/article/jacquemus-images-photobook
JACQUEMUS
Martyna Rumian