NIGERIA by martynarumian

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PROTO BE A NIGERIAN

of Africa great men and I am froM women The thunddifferent tongues and The gian only l The land of and we can call our The land own of are tribes, suffering Nigeria, W and smiling WHEre Tfuture is the only BEcauSbright light we can see.

Culture is the characteristics and knowledge of a particular group of people, encompassing language, religion, cuisine, social habits, music and arts. ... The word „culture” derives from a French term, which in turn derives from the Latin „colere,” which means to tend to the earth and grow, or cultivation and nurture.

Nigerian fashion is really characteristic. Full of colours and patterns, is very different than the one proposed by mainstream chain shops in Europe or North America. Fashion has always had very important place in the Nigerian culture. Traditional Nigerian clothing can indicate which tribe one belongs to, from what region they come, what is their religion, material status etc. According to the Nigerian tradition there are various attires worn depending on the occasion. Nowadays traditional Nigerian clothing is worn mostly only for special occasions and eventually to work on Friday. Nonetheless, the modern Nigerian fa-

shion designers have incorporated many traditional elements, and presented them in innovative way. Nigerian fashion started to thrive after democracy has been restored in 1999. The fashion sector in 2000s has been developing very quickly. The breakthrugh moment was the foundation of Lagos Fashion Week (LFWNG) by Omoyemi Akerele in 2011. Since then Lagos Fashion Week is hold every year. Thanks to the mass media Nige-

O I H

N I N

E G I

A I R

S A F N

E IG

A I R

A F N

E G I RY

N IO

NST

U D N

A I R

S A NF

Y R T

omi Camp b e l l came to Lagos to support prospering designers. She walked the runway for three of them: Lanre Da Silva Ajayi and Tiffany Amber from Nigeria and KLÛK CGDT from South Africa. Other famous personalities like Beyoncé or Michelle Obama promote indigenous Nigerian desiggns. African designers show that modernity and tradition go hand in hand. Both past and future are important, and they understand it very well. It’s Africa’s time!

D IN

S U

rian f a shion starts to be recognized and admired around the globe. The global fashion industry is now worth over $2.4trn. Africa’s own portion of that is reckoned to be around $31bn, just 1.3 per cent of that total, however the figure is expected to rise considerably. In 2018 Na-

H S A

S U D

N I N

O I H

Y R T

INTERVIEW WITH ANTHONY ANI

A L W A Y S

H A V E

A T T I T U D E

G R A A T N I O T F U D E

What’s your name ? My name is Anthony Ani. Tell me sth about yourself ? I am Nigerian. 3 adjectives that describe you. Reserved yet erratic What do you study ?your I study Architecture. M: What’s name ? A; My name What are your other interests ? I enjoy working out, is Anthony Ani. How your M; Nigerian background influences you Tell me sth about yourself ? A: I ?Ig nook andamcranny of me. Fro Nigerian. What do M: you3 miss about Nig adjectives How different Nigeria from Eu that isdescribe you. tely different. A: Reserved yet Are Nigerian people differen erratic and creatiDespite western influences, tra ve. Where have you do already be M: What you Germany.study ? A: I study Which country in Europe appeals to you the most ? Architecture. is almost the of Nigeria. M: complete What are opposite your other interests ? Nigerian culture seems to be very joyful, A: I enjoy working out, reading,am vi- I righ manage to stay happy all kinds tv of eco deo games anddespite binge watching Tell me characteristic features of the Nigerian cult shows. and over 250 dialects ethnicbackground groups. The three M: How yourand Nigerian What do you appreciate most in influences you ? A: I grewthe up in mended. Nigeria, so my Nigerian backWhat dohas youinfluenced think about Nigerian ground every what Nigeria from. Y nook part and of cranny ofyou me.are From twist to it Iwhich is really the way dress to how I cool. speak Do mod and you act. enjoy Do you belong to a M: What do How do aboyou feel you miss camera. ut Nigeria? A: I realAre you lyinterested in and fashV miss the food SHVBHSFJK D FF SIIJDSVB theDDD people. am interested in fashion. M: How different is Who is your favourite designe Nigeria from Europe Who is your ? I wo ? A:fashion Nigeria icon and EuYour motto ? likeAlways h a rope are night and day. They are completely different. M: Are Nigerian people different for Europeans ? A: Nigerian people are very different to Europeans. Despite western influences, tradition and cultu-

c and creative. re are deeply into their lives. about Nigerian fashion ? A: Nige, reading, videohave games bingebeen watching tv shows. M: Where youand already in rian fashion is amazing. Traditional grew Europe up in Nigeria, so my Nigerian background hasa influenced ? A: I have been in Norway, ttires v a r yevery om the way I dress to how I speak and act. Spain and Germany. depending geria? the food and the people. M:I really Whichmiss country in Europe appeon what part urope als ? Nigeria and Europe are like night They are to youyour the name most I really like and day. of Nigerc oi m apleWhat’s ?? A: Norway, which is strange , because you are from. My name is Anthony Ani. nt for itEuropeans Nigerian people are very different r oe p er a n s . is almost ?the complete opposite Y otou Eung Tell me sth about yourself ? adition and culture are deeply into their of Nigeria. people a r elives. I am Nigerian. een in Europe ? I have been innow Norway, Spain M: Nigetak i n g and 3rian adjectives that culture t h e s e ?I really like Norway, which is strange , because it seems to be tradition a l describe you. very attires and Reservedjoyful, yet erratic ht ? Yes, Nigerian culture is really joyful, People am I right ? adding a and creative. onomic, political and social crisis. Yes, Nigerian modern twist What do you study ? ture. Nigerian culture The country over 50 languages culture is re- is very varied. to it which is reallyhas cool. I study Architecture. e largest the Hausa, the Igbo andM: the allyethnic joyful,groups Peopleare: manage to stay DoYoruba. you enjoy modeling ? A: I reWhatdespite are your all other interests ? n the happy Nigerian culture? I really appreciate the fact, ally that enjoy respect for the elderly is highly comkinds of economodeling. mic, political and M: Do you belong to any modelI enjoy working out,social ren fashion ? Nigerian fashion is amazing. attires depending on crisis. lingTraditional agency? A: No, I vary do not. ading, video games and Younger are now taking these traditional and adding M: people Tell me characteristic M: How doattires you feel in front of a modern binge watching tv shows. features of the Nigerian camera ? A: I am your Nigerian backdelingculture. ? How I really enjoy modeling. A: Nigerian culreally awkward in the ground influences you ? any modelling agency? No, I d o not. ture is very varied. The front of a camera. Iofgrew up inover Nigeria, so l in front camera ? I 50 amlanrea l l y awkward the front of a country has M: Are youininterested guages and over 250 diain fashion ? A: I am my Nigerian background VVVCVBXBGFHGNDBFSJNVBF I H S B V K J NinJ K LSANVKJBlects and ethnic groups. interested fashion. has influenced BDS DG three G larRG W J GJKRWHKJWKJGWGWion ?I The M: Who is your favoevery nook and gest ethnic urite designer ? A: I cranny of me. er ? I quite like Olivier Rousteing from Balmain. groups are: quite like Olivier RoFrom the way I uld say Hausa, Tom Ford. the usteing from Balmain. dress to how I v e an Igbo att i tude of fashion gratiVVV the and M: Who is your the Yoruba. icon ? A: I would say speak and act. M: What apTom Ford. What do youdo missyou about Nigepreciate the most in M: Your motto ? A: WWAlways ria? the Nigerian culture? have an attitude of gratitude. IA;really miss the food and the I really appreciate people. the fact, that respect How different is Nigeria from for the elderly is highly commended. M: What do you think

DES

I G

I want people to feel confident in the clothes I create. I think fashion has a strong message in the way we present ourselves to the outside world. Certainly if i wear clothes that I feel confident in, my personna becomes more confident too. I walk taller, I feel bolder because I feel good.

What sparked your interest in fashion? The fabrics, the colours, the whole creative process really. There’s so many different elements to juggle and delve into in fashion, you never find yourself getting bored.

EMMA DEVENPORT - desi-

What is your favourite part about being designer ? When everything clicks into place and you start to see the look coming together after all the hours in the studio. I also love getting inspired by places and drawing out designs, intergrating different concepts to create something that I’d like to wear. What is the worst part about being a designer ? Not being able to switch off outside the studio. The week before any kind of deadline I won’t be able to stop thinking of ways to improve the garment, finishings, photoshoot compositions etc. etc. It’s all a big whirlwind. Where your inspiration come from ? Anything, everything. I take a lot of inspiration from artists, places I‘ve been, cultures, buildings, sculptures, anything that takes my interest. I like to look at techniques and how things are made, to then incorporate the methodology into my design.

How do you want people feel when wearing your clothes ? I want people to feel confident in the clothes I create. I think fashion has a strong message in the way we present ourselves to the outside world. Certainly if i wear clothes that I feel confident in, my personna becomes more confident too. I walk taller, I feel bolder because I feel good. How would you describe your esthetics ? I’d say my aesthetic changes with my mood. At the moment it’s structured tailoring with bold, contemporary pattern and fabrics. Who is your favourite designer ? Rose Danford-Phillips, Alexander McQueen and Iris Van Herpen all create master pieces with their own aesthetic. Who is your fashion icon? Leandra Medine, she always looks effortlessly cool. Tell about your design that you are feel the most pround of ? My first ever garment I created a tailored piece for one of my best friends, that incased paint, sand and my own illustations in plastic and calico. It was more of an art piece and quite hand made but I still loved it.

The worst fashion trend ever ? Juicy Couture tracksuits. Your favourite piece of clothing ? A 1980’s olive green double breasted suit with shoulder pads that fits like a glove. I also have a pair of italian faux cow hyde kitten heels that are pretty fierce. What do you think about current fashion ? The industry needs to change and take responsibility for their actions on the environment which designers are slowly waking up too. I also think the industry is working at a pace that is unsustainable in itself. Clothes need more care and attention put into them, for consumers to value their garments more. Thus creating longer life cycles and relieving resource costs. What would you change in the fashion industry ? I’d like to change the way we view the disposable nature of fashion and learn to value the clothes choose to buy. Where do you see yourself in five years from now ? Probably still paying off student debt. But I’d like to be working for a design house, creating ways to innovate and solve problems around sustainability in the industry.

What muse did you choose? My muse was Anthony Ani, an MA Architecture student at ECA. What was your inspiration for this outifit ? My inspiration for this outfit was the architecture from both my home and my muse’s, that brought community together. Along with looking at contemporary Nigerian designers at Lagos Fashion Week, marrying African and Western design. What techniques did you use and why ? I used a quilting technique to create the texture of my garment on stretch denim. I then sewed into this to create construction lines in the surface texture. Paired with this I used traditional block printing techniques to mirror the methodology behind Adinkra symbols to create my pattern. What challanges did you face ? I had challenges in creating the layers of my design so that the seams weren’t too bulky. I also had challenges in creating my print as I used the side of a building and

The fabrics, the colours, the whole creative process really. There’s so many different elements to juggle and delve into in fashion, you never find yourself getting bored.

Tell us what was the task ? Our brief was to create a look and print inspired by a muse, only using stretch fabric with black as our base colour.

added fabric paint with a roller to create depth and texture with my print. How did the obstacles make you feel ? Frustrated but it’s always worth it when you find a solution to the issue.

t h e r e i s a culture b e y o n d E u r o p e a n d the USA

Arise, O compatriots Nigeria’s call obey to serve our fatherland with love and strength and faith. The labour of our heroes past shall never Arise, be Oin vain, compatriots to serve with Nigeria’s heart and call might obey one nation to bound servein freedom our fatherland Peace withand love and strength unity.and faith. O God The labour of ofcreation, our heroes past direct shall our noble never cause Arise, be Oin vain, compatriots Guide our to serve leaders with heart right and call might Nigeria’s obey Help our youth one nation the truth to know inArise, freedom to bound serve our fatherland O compatriots In love and Peace honesty and grow unity. withto love and strength and faith. Nigeria’s call obey And living O just God and of trueto The labour ofcreation, our heroesour past fatherland serve Great lofty direct heights our attain noble cause shall never in strength vain, and faith. withbe love and To build aGuide nation our where leaders peace right to serve with heart andofmight The labour our heroes past And justice Help our shall youth the reign truth to know one nation bound in freedom shall never be in vain, In love and honestytoto grow Peace and serve with unity. heart and might And living just true creation, O God and oneofnation bound in freedom Great lofty attain direct heights ourPeace noble cause and unity. To build aGuide nation our where peace right O leaders God of creation, And justice reign Help our shall youth the truth to know direct our noble cause In love andGuide honestyour to grow leaders right And livingHelp just and the true our youth truth to know Great loftyIn love heights attain and honesty to grow To build a nation And where living peace just and true And justice shall reign Great lofty heights attain

To build a nation where peace And justice shall reign