Fashion Mannuscript May 2022

THE BEAUTY ISSUE

FA S H I O N M A N N U S C R I P T NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI THE HAMPTONS

INSIDE:

LA CHENILLE TAKES NY BRIDAL FASHION WEEK THE MULTI-WEAR JEWELRY PIECES FOR EVERY LOOK

PLUS: RETAIL METAVERSE TRENDS AT SHOPTALK

FRNCH

THE FREE-SPIRITED WOMENSWEAR BRAND INSPIRED BY TIMELESS, PARISIAN STYLE

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PRESIDENT/CEO Jeff Mann EDITORIAL Editor Lauren D’Errico

ART Art Director Krystal Peguero

Editorial Consultant Debra Hazel

Associate Designer Ran Jing

BUSINESS Technology Consultant Joshua Fried Distribution Mitchell’s Delivery Service

Associate Editor Lauren Schuster

Cover Photography Courtesy of FRNCH

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Senior California Editor Daniella Platt California Editor Kimberly Goodnight Director of Communications and Marketing Penelope Herrera Social Media Manager Le’Trice DeShon Director of Newsletter Division Cheri Phillips Director of New Business Development Kelly Sen

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CONTRIBUTORS Michelle Alleyne Amy Berkowitz Howard Bader Norah Bradford Frank DeLucia Rachel Evans Leslie Gallin Erynn A. Gifford Frances Harder Jordan Harouche R. Couri Hay Debra Hazel Courtney Hazirjian Shannah Henderson Amanda Hodge Eve Hodgkinson Donna Johnson-Klonsky Merilee Kern Natasha Kersey Michele Gerber Klein Donna Leah Nathan Liao Krystal Peguero Daniella Platt Wilfredo Rosado Sandra Roy Benjamin Seigel Annie Watt Sabrina Zohar

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West Coast Advisor Ilse Metchek DIGITAL MEDIA Lauren D’Errico Le’Trice DeShon Debra Hazel Penelope Herrera Ran Jing Krystal Peguero Lauren Schuster Web Developer CS Designworks

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The opinions expressed by our columnists are not reflective of the views and opinions of the publisher or the editorial staff of Fashion Mannuscript. Publication of such views and opinions does not constitute endorsement by Fashion Mannuscript. Any reproduction, including but not limited to internet usage, is prohibited without the express written permission of the publisher.

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Copy Editor Helen Ventura

Here at Mann Publications, this past month has been a busy one! Our team been attending fashion shows and industry events, and we are so excited to be in Palm Springs for the launch of FashionGo Week, FashionGo’s newest in-person venture merging online and live trade show experiences, a event that is truly taking the business-to-business fashion marketing experience to the next level. I am thrilled to join with my friend Tom Nastos and the rest of the FashionGo team, as well as FashionGo’s partners from Seoul, to witness the future of the trade show industry. I am also so excited to have FRNCH, one of the brands exhibiting at the event, featured on our cover, and the share the brand’s unique style and positive mission with you all.

We are also in the exciting, formative stages of creating a membership-driven, networking group specifically for the fashion industry.

This group will be applicable for designers, manufacturers, fashion technology start-up founders and more — because our audience is made up of such a large variety of industry experts, we can welcome members from all areas of the industry. These professionals want to meet and work with one another, and we want to bring them together. Look out for more updates on the new organization soon.

Outside of the magazine, our social media platforms are seeing rapid growth. We are growing all of our channels, and continuing to engage with the fashion, real estate and luxury lifestyle communities online as well as in this issue. Enjoy!

“Price is what you pay. Value is what you get.” — Warren Buffett

ONE MANN’S OPINION

When it comes to the beauty industry, there really is something for everyone — if you can imagine something you need, then there’s at least a half dozen unique products that can satisfy you. Just in the past day alone, I’ve seen everything from facial serums charged with vitamin C and stick-on nail polish that is already pre-dried to ultraviolet skincare masks that are akin to a super villain’s disguise. I think the beauty industry is so fun because it is one that is constantly growing to meet the needs of its customer base, which always wants to try the next treatment or product. Personally, my weakness these days has been super bright, neon nail polish colors — I’ve had my eye on some almost blinding green and blue shades — and I’ve also been searching high and low for an everyday sunscreen as the days are getting longer and brighter.

What I’ve learned from putting together this month’s issue is how huge the beauty industry really is, and how the market has expanded into new categories with technology, artificial intelligence and unique collaborations. It was so exciting to discover and share Elf Cosmetics’ collab with Dunkin (two of my favorites!), L’Oréal’s newest move to tech-powered fragrance services, Winnie Harlow’s new skincare line and more.

Inside these pages, you’ll also find a U.K.-based fashion brand that began from charitable roots, updates on the state of in-person trade shows around the globe and an interview with Amber Kers, the creator of her eponymous handcrafted jewelry company Amber Krs. Enjoy this issue — and maybe try out a new beauty product this month!

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MAY 2022

46 ON THE COVER

FRNCH: THE FREE-SPIRITED WOMENSWEAR BRAND INSPIRED BY TIMELESS, PARISIAN STYLE

FASHION FAVORITES

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO

14

Royal Chronicles 007 and Berchell Bring the Club to the Runway at Fashion Week Brooklyn

By Lauren D’Errico

16

Burberry Releases Autumn/Winter 2022 Menswear and Womenswear Collections

18

Dress Hunt Hosts New York Bridal Fashion Week Pop-up

By Lauren D’Errico

20

Latex, Power Suits and Neon: Fashion Week Brooklyn’s Ode to the ’80s

By Lauren D’Errico

COVER FEATURE

22

Responsibly-made Athleisure Brand Able Made Launches Immersive Pop-up at 1 Hotel Central Park

FASHION FABULOUS 7

One Mann’s Opinion

8

Editor’s Letter

26

Fashion 411

26 FASHION 411

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH JUMPS INTO ACTIVEWEAR WITH NEW SUB-BRAND, YPB Photo courtesy of Abercrombie & Fitch

Challenges = Opportunities

At Anchin, we are more than accountants. Our specialists in the fashion industry advise on a broad range of business and financial matters. Our creativity, integrity and care help you focus on driving your business forward. We help you turn challenges into opportunities through innovative and insightful thinking as your Expert Partner.

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THE DEPART MENTS 36 Fashion at Home

65 TechWear

80 The Columns

101 Trade Show Update

113 Crossword Puzzle

114 Look Books

116 Horoscopes

119

By The Numbers

120 Social Soiree

124 A Closer Look

126 Last Look: Amber Krs Jewelry

FASHION FORWARD 42

Yenaé Introduces Multiwear Jewelry Inspired by African Basket Weaving

44

Coco & Eve: The Rise of the Cult Brand Leading the Indie Beauty Market

By Christy Linder

52

Peter Manning NYC Menswear Expands in 10th Year

By Joseph Pastrana

54

Oh Polly: From Charitable Endeavors to Global Fashion Company

By Omar Cunningham

58

La Chenille Bridal Bikini Makes a Splash at NYFW Bridal 2022

62

10 KPIs to Unlock E-commerce Success: Generate Insights to Guide Your Growth

By Michael Sacco

Photos courtesy of Dress Hunt

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Berchell

Berchell

Royal Chronicles 007

Berchell Berchell Royal Chronicles 007

FASHION FAVORITES

ROYAL CHRONICLES 007 & BERCHELL BRING THE CLUB TO THE RUNWAY AT FASHION WEEK BROOKLYN

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO Photos courtesy of Shawn Punch Photography

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urated by BK Style Foundation, a platform founded in 2004 to uplift Brooklyn’s emerging and underprivileged designers, and BLC Productions, a brand catering unique events in New York City, the “Fashion Reimagined: Bed-Stuy Style” runway show channeled clubhouse vibes and euphoric fun as a part of the 2022 Fashion Week Brooklyn. Behind the aptly unassuming door to Hidden Events Venue on Tompkins Avenue in Brooklyn, the show’s audience gathered and danced under a disco ball to high-energy ’90s and early 2000s hip hop remixes as excitement grew to see garments by the two featured brands, Royal Chronicles 007 (@royalchronicles007) and Berchell (@afrooklynman).

Before the show began, 56th Assembly District Leader Kenesha Traynham-Cooper addressed the audience, thanking them for their support of Brooklyn Fashion Week and sharing an insight into her role as district leader. She also introduced her daughter, who is 13 years old and a fashion designer herself.

“Embrace your creative side,” Traynham-Cooper said. “Everyone is not going to understand you when you dress the way you do. You’re artists!”

And with that, Royal Chronicles 007 began the fashion show with a translucent raincoat, and what followed was a distressed streetwear style that was effortlessly cool and channeled 90s grunge influences.

Menswear and womenswear pieces in the collection included joggers, tank tops, hoodies, fringe jackets and half-zip sweaters in a neutral color palette of black, white and beige (with the occasional pop of bright color), most of which were emboldened with Royal Chronicles 007’s logo.

Between the two shows was a performance by SO.FTA (Sounds from the Attic), a rap duo who performed two new songs for the crowd. The pair also walked in the Royal Chronicles 007 show, and sported their runway looks during the performance.

Royal Chronicles 007

The second runway show of the evening featured designs by Berchell (@afrooklynman), who utilized blue and black surgical masks to create matching sets, hats, duffle bags, handbags and joggers entirely made from the medical-wear. The brand’s elevated streetwear designs also included hoodies, cropped vests, pants and shorts and a duster made from mixed, patchwork fabrics, such as collaged multicolor bandanas and other materials.

Royal Chronicles 007

MAY 2022 15 | FM

FASHION FAVORITES

BURBERRY

RELEASES AUTUMN/WINTER 2022 MENSWEAR & WOMENSWEAR COLLECTIONS Photos courtesy of Burberry

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urberry unveiled its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection in an event that marked the first live runway show for the brand in two years. A celebration of British culture, the show explores the multiple perspectives and dualities that constitute British identity. Contrasting city with country, pageantry with punk, it explores the concept of Britishness not as a fixed idea, but as an attitude: forwardthinking, adventurous and embracing potential, said the brand.

Building on the brand’s rich history and house codes, the womenswear and menswear collections offer a playful twist on tradition, a reconstruction of heritage. Contrasting elements of regalia with subcultural influences, classic British conventions and hallmarks of the house are explored in fresh iterations, fabrications and silhouettes. Filled with autumnal hues scattered with effervescent crystals inspired by evenings in the British countryside, the collections highlight revived icons from the Burberry archive, including the Equestrian Knight Design and oak leaf crest, as well as an updated take on the classic trench.

“It was important for me to explore what it means to belong, how our roots influence our identity and how the power of community and togetherness is what truly brings meaning to the world,” said Riccardo Tisci, chief creative officer, Burberry. “Therefore, I wanted this collection to convey that intensity of feeling and to celebrate not only coming together, but the city in which we come together today; the city in which Burberry grew and established a family.”

Tisci continued, “To me, London is a place of dreams, a capital building on its heritage and unified by its diverse community and an attitude of moving beyond boundaries — of pursuing limitless potential. The collection embodies an intangible essence that is Britishness, a unique fusion of honoring the beauty of the past, whilst also remaining focussed on the future with thankfulness, hope and love.”

Presented at Central Hall Westminster, the collection was unveiled in a vast theater featuring a historic domed ceiling and a grand organ as its backdrop. Dressed in Burberry’s signature brown hue, the floor of the venue’s Great Hall was transformed into a resplendent private dining room. Commencing in darkness, the show opened with models descending the stairwells, weaving through the audience and onto illuminated high-top tables. Accompanied by a live performance from the London Contemporary Orchestra of works by Max Richter and Michael Nyman, the hearts of the audience were reflected in the voices of a 100-person choir.

Curated for an intimate audience, guests that attended the show included Adam Driver, Adekunle Gold, Anne Imhof, Blondey McCoy, Carla Bruni, Davido, Dixie D’Amelio, Eiza González, Eliza Douglas, Headie One, Honey Dijon, Jacob Elordi, Jaime Xie, Jodie Harsh, Kate Moss, Kelvin Harrison Jr., Marina Ruy Barbosa, Meridian Dan, Naomi Campbell, Rebecca Hall, Role Model, Slim Soledad and Simone Ashley.

Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2022 runway show will be certified as carbon neutral and the house has taken measures to reduce environmental impact in the first instance and then offset the carbon emissions associated with the show.

FASHION FAVORITES

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MAY 2022

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FASHION FAVORITES

DRESS HUNT

HOSTS NEW YORK BRIDAL FASHION WEEK POP-UP

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO Photos courtesy of Dress Hunt

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ridal Fashion Week took New York City by storm in early April, with runway shows and presentations spread all over Manhattan — including a gallery space right under the High Line, where Dress Hunt’s first-ever Bridal Pop Up took place. The unique event featured wedding dresses and bridal accessories by Houghton, Asar by Nikon Asar, Nova by Enaura and more on display, as well.

Founded in 2018 by Ashley Hunt and Felicia Joffe, Dress Hunt is a digital discovery platform that connects brides-to-be in search of their perfect dress directly with designers. Rather than the traditional method of doing independent research before showing up at a bridal boutique and hoping that they have their chosen dress in stock, Dress

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MAY 2022

Hunt users can specify their searches based on style, location, price and a number of other fields in order to make their shopping experience more seamless and solve the problem of actually locating one’s chosen dress. “[We are] bringing together the world of bridal,” said Joffe. The company’s mission is to honor the bridal industry’s past while propelling it into the future, modernizing the experience of buying a wedding gown.

For the pop-up, Hunt and Joffe coordinated with brands that they found were most popular with NYC-local brides-to-be and brought them together for direct sale opportunities during New York Bridal Fashion Week. Dress brand

Houghton, as well as jewelry and accessory brands Celeste New York and Alyson Nicole, are all New York-based companies.

During the mid-morning event, guests had an upclose view of the gowns, jewelry and headpieces on display, and were able to ask the designers questions and try on some accessory pieces. In the lower level of the space, celebrity designer Katharine Polk returned to the bridal world with her presentation of Houghton. Seven models presented a variety of Polk’s styles, including a short dress with cutouts and heart-shaped details; an ’80s-inspired look with exaggerated shoulders and above-the-elbow silk gloves; exposed corset boning and veils and headpieces in a variety of fabrics and lengths.

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Ashley Hunt, Nikon Asar Felicia Jones

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MAY 2022

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PARPATREQ Bonavitacola One Piece Wear

One Piece Wear

Regina Kravitz

Regina Kravitz Regina Kravitz

One Piece Wear

One Piece Wear

Regina Kravitz

Regina Kravitz Bonavitacola

PARPATREQ

PARPATREQ RPATREQ

Onepiecewear

Bonavitacola

LATEX, POWER SUITS AND NEON: FASHION WEEK BROOKLYN’S ODE TO THE ’80S

The 1980s were back in all of their big-shouldered and neon glory at “Time After Time: An 80s Retro-Spective,” a Fashion Week Brooklyn runway show staged in partnership with The Brooklyn Fashion Incubator that paying homage to the decade. The show included designs by Regina Kravitz (@reginakravitzstyleandfitness), the evening’s featured designer; One Piece Wear by Rita Miser (@ritamister), who is The Brooklyn Fashion Incubator’s emerging designer; PARPATREQ by Patrick Holmes (@parpatreq) and Kenny Bonavitacola (@kennybonavitacola).

Fashion Week Brooklyn is a bi-annual, international fashion event created by BK Style Foundation, a nonprofit platform founded to support emerging Brooklyn designers in growing their businesses and honing their talents. The Brooklyn Fashion Incubator provides fashion entrepreneurs with tools to establish secure paths to business and brand growth.

At the Incubator, emerging designers receive personalized support from fashion mentors.

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO

Photos courtesy of Shawn Punch Photography

Before the show, which took place in the industrial, warehouse-esque back room of an art gallery in Midtown Manhattan, the audience gathered throughout the gallery to view the art that was curated for the show. Pieces on display featured illustrative body forms in rainbow colors and graffiti stylized over photorealistic street scenes, as well as garment sketches of classic ’80s styles.

Debbie Dickinson, a supermodel who started her career in Paris and New York City during the 1980s, served as the evening’s emcee and wore one of Kravitz’s designs, a belted black bodysuit with exaggerated shoulders. Dickinson, who has been featured on the covers of Paris and British Vogue and worked with Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel and Yves St. Laurent, shared stories of her time rising through the fashion world during the ’80s and beyond.

Kravitz opened the evening with a runway show featuring her ’80s-inspired designs, which included dresses with matching jacket pieces, wrap tops, balloon pants and power suits in floral prints and bright neons with glittering accessories. One standout piece from the show was a fully sequined New York Yankees bomber jacket that sparkled down the catwalk. Supermodels from the 1970s and 1980s returned to the runway to close the show, wearing coordinated belted jumpsuits.

One Piece Wear by Rita’s offerings included wrapped dresses, knotted fabric detailing, geometric and natureinspired prints and models with linear designs painted on their faces; Bonavitacola featured suit-inspired dresses, cardigans, racer stripe slacks and and two-piece sets in bright colors with studded detailing. Parpatreq by Patrick showed bodysuits, dresses, pantsuits and spandex looks in chrome colorways with futuristic accents of a see-through, plastic-like material.

mannpublications.com

MAY 2022

FM | 21

FASHION FAVORITES

RESPONSIBLY-MADE ATHLEISURE BRAND ABLE MADE LAUNCHES IMMERSIVE POP-UP AT 1 HOTEL CENTRAL PARK

On the heels of its recent retail partnership in collaboration with Energi, Able Made’s founder and designer Suzanne McKenzie found the response from the four-month activation so successful that she wanted to amplify the experience and continue investing in NYC retail environments, the brand said. McKenzie, who in addition to Able Made’s core collection has created collaborations with Puma, S’well, Threadless, Project Runway’s Anya Ayoung Chee and more, joins the ranks of other eco-conscious brand to host pop-ups at 1 Hotels.

The pop-up experience merges elements from the SoHo location that resonated with shoppers — like experiencing the hand-feel and quality of the product and visualizing the brand come to life in a physical space that reiterates Able Made’s wellness and sports-inspired positioning — while incorporating the stylish, sustainably focused elements that guests of 1 Hotels

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MAY 2022

have come to know and love about the brand.

With the launch of this pop-up comes the second phase drop of Able Made’s first ever ready-to-wear collection including Spring staples like its Riley Windbreaker, cut from responsibly and USA-made certified organic cotton rib and recycled, water-resistant nylon, and Avery Bodysuit, made from certified organic stretch jersey and featuring an abstract soccer monogram pattern. All of Able Made’s products are made in the USA, specifically in NYC’s Garment District, which lowers the brand’s carbon footprint immensely. Shop details, from sustainable paper on its hangtags to organic cotton shopping bags and a moss logo sign reflect the brand’s endeavor toward responsible design, craft and display.

Soccer-pattern styles and monograms honor the brand, bringing its “athleisure for the active and the activists” soccer heritage to life as proceeds from each piece helps fund the Ucal McKenzie Breakaway Foundation (UMBF) for city youth. UMBF is a health and inclusion mentorship and soccer foundation started by McKenzie in her husband’s name that’s currently available in Boston and Hartford, Connecticut and arriving in NYC in 2023.

Photos by Amy Lombardo for Able Made

A

ble Made, a NYC-based, statement-making, responsibly made athleisure brand, launched an immersive retail pop-up in collaboration with 1 Hotel Central Park — a space inspired by nature and designed with reclaimed materials and greenery — for a 360-degree, eco-friendly shopping experience.

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MAY 2022

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FASHION 411 CAY SKIN, CO-FOUNDED BY 100.CO AND WINNIE HARLOW, AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT SEPHORA of 100 black female founders to raise more than $1 million of venture capital.

Photo courtesy of 100.co

Cay Skin was incubated at 100.co utilizing the company’s proprietary AI technology, which analyzed millions of retail data signals and beauty trends to develop a brand that fit both Harlow’s vision and met market needs. The platform also analyzes consumer product reviews and translates those insights into recommendations for formulations and packaging.

1

00.co, the artificial intelligence-powered consumer brand group, announced that its new skincare brand, Cay Skin by Winnie Harlow, is available at Sephora in 251 locations. Harlow, a global supermodel, raised $6.5M in funding for Cay Skin, becoming one

The brand’s initial launch includes a range of sunscreens and skincare products expertly formulated to keep all skin tones and types protected, glowing and without any white cast. All products are silicone-free, non-comedogenic, dermatologist-tested, reef-friendly, vegan and are formulated with high performance skincare actives and nutrient-rich island-based ingredients like aloe stem cells, hydrating nectar and sea moss, paying homage to Harlow’s Jamaican heritage, said the company.

“Two years ago, we started collaborating with Winnie to develop Cay Skin and we couldn’t be more excited to see her vision come to life,” 100.co Founder and CEO Kim Perell said.

“For both 100.co and Cay Skin, working with a partner such as Sephora is a huge moment of success. We all have a shared vision for a diverse and inclusive beauty industry and I’ve always believed in supporting female founders from diverse backgrounds, which Sephora is committed to as well.”

Harlow said, “I wanted to create Cay Skin for all those people who have sensitive skin, who have vitiligo, who are light, dark, any color under the sun, and Kim and the 100.co team have given me an unbelievable platform to develop this line of products. They were with me every step of the way, from product concept to manufacturing, and from fundraising to marketing.

“Most importantly, their AI platform gave us the data and insights to understand the market gaps not being fulfilled by traditional skincare brands,” Harlow added.

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH JUMPS INTO ACTIVEWEAR WITH NEW SUB-BRAND, YPB

The collection includes super soft, squat-proof and breathable bottoms, performance tops featuring four-way stretch, sweat-wicking and anti-odor elements, studio outer layers and trending fashion details like cutouts and straps.

YPB’s styles are available in XXS-XXL with additional options for long and short lengths.

“We’ve been dedicated to outfitting our millennial consumers for every part of their lives, whether they’re traveling, brunching with friends or celebrating a wedding, for example. Being active is another key part of that lifestyle, and now, with the launch of YPB, we can meet those

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specific needs,” said Kristin Scott, global brand president at Abercrombie & Fitch Co. “We’re laser-focused on listening to our customers, and they were clear: They’re looking for fashion-forward activewear that actually performs, looks good and combines quality with value. YPB delivers on all of that, while also providing the comfort and attention to detail that our customers expect from us.”

To bring YPB to life, designers conducted fit research on models across genders, sizes, shapes and heights to ensure pieces delivered on presentation as well as performance.

Additionally, YPB’s team held focus groups with customers and key fitness and lifestyle influencers to gain their perspective on what they and their followers were missing from the activewear world, refining designs to ensure seaming, stretch and details like pocket angles and drawstrings could all help customers move freely and comfortably.

Photo courtesy of Abercrombie & Fitch

A

bercrombie & Fitch, a division of Abercrombie & Fitch Co., has launched YPB, an activewear sub-brand. YPB stands for “Your Personal Best” and aims to empower customers to perform to their highest potential — from sprinting to stretching, lifting to simply life-ing, said the brand. The sub-brand features a collection of fashion-forward yet functional activewear and accessories for men and women and is available now at abercrombie.com and in most North American Abercrombie & Fitch stores.

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FASHION 411

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BRIDAL E-TAILER AZAZIE PARTNERS WITH PNINA TORNAI FOR HER DEBUT BRIDESMAID COLLECTION

zazie, the leading direct-to-consumer bridal and special occasion dress brand, announced its exclusive collaboration with top-selling celebrity couture bridal designer, Pnina Tornai. The debut collection is Tornai’s first bridesmaid collection and Azazie’s first time collaborating with a celebrity designer, with dresses retailing from $159-$249.

more wonderful women,” said Tornai. “My brides are my greatest inspiration and designing bridesmaid dresses is another way for me to support them as well, by creating the perfect bridesmaid dresses to frame my bridal gowns. I have always advised my brides regarding their bridesmaid attire, but I wanted to bring something to the market that I felt was missing.”

Tornai designed a collection offering a wide range of textures and fabrics that convey the essence and spirit of her couture brand, including Pnina Signature Lace, Spotlight Sequin, Sleek Satin, Fluid Chiffon and Luxurious Mikado. Dresses are available colorways including black, navy, burgundy, pink, dusty blue and an exclusive “Pnina Nude” color. The collection includes form-fitting gowns, sleek jumpsuits and sexy short dresses with intricate details.

“Pnina Tornai is the ‘Fairy Godmother of Brides’ — not only is she the leading couture bridal designer but she is a celebrator of women in all their forms. This being Azazie’s first celebrity designer collaboration, we were very particular in who we wanted to partner with,” said Ranu Coleman, chief marketing officer of Azazie. “We knew right away that we shared the same vision as Pnina and we were the right partner to turn Pnina’s vision for her first-ever bridesmaid collection into reality.”

“My calling is to inspire and empower women.

It was important to me to extend that to the special women in my brides’ lives and to have the opportunity to dress and connect with so many

Photo courtesy of Pnina Tornai

This latest partnership highlights the brand’s innovation, inclusivity and individuality for brides and bridesmaids alike, said the brand.

MALUMA LAUNCHES FIRST CLOTHING LINE FOR MEN AND WOMEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR MACY’S

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Photo courtesy of Business Wire

reaking barriers through music, acting and style, Colombian powerhouse Maluma is launching his first fashion collection for men and women exclusively with Macy’s, said the brand. Royalty by Maluma, designed in partnership with Reunited Clothing, is an exploration of the musician’s lifelong admiration for the artistry and magic of high fashion, and also furthers his mission to bring indelible style to his community through accessible collections, said Macy’s.

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Featuring statement matching sets, the collection embraces inclusivity and a fluid design concept that allows shoppers to mix and match between the women’s and men’s collections.

Available in sizes XS to XXL with prices ranging from $39.50-$179.00, Royalty by Maluma is now available on macys.com, Macy’s mobile app and at select Macy’s nationwide.

“The meaning of royalty is to treat others with respect, love and understanding. I want everyone to feel like kings and queens when wearing this collection,” said Maluma. “Royalty by Maluma is a unique blend of my Latin culture

and my love for fashion, with stylish wear-anywhere looks that are versatile for a night out or every day. In addition, my partnership with Reunited Clothing for Macy’s represents the American Dream. This will be the first of multiple drops in my collection, that I hope will inspire my fans to dream.”

The collection inspires everyone to proudly embrace their unique personal style and present it to the world with unabashed authority, Macy’s said. With quality fabrics and unique textures, Royalty by Maluma features this season’s ontrend styles including colorful cut-out dresses, bold pops of colors, paisley prints and classic knits. Maluma’s personal touches appear throughout the collection including his signature crown finishing and patterns inspired by his hometown of Medellin, Colombia.

“Maluma’s impeccable sense of style and inclusive commitment to celebrating the beauty and sexiness of everyone, whoever they are, made him an ideal partner to collaborate with,” said Durand Guion, vice president, Macy’s Fashion Office.

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EXECUTIVE CHANGES

FASHION 411

TESTA APPOINTED CEO OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Testa is an Italian national with a long track record in the luxury industry in Europe and Asia. He start-

ed his career at Tag Heuer in 2002 and went on to hold a range of roles at LVMH, including Fendi in Italy, Japan and Hong Kong. He joined Kering in 2016 as Gucci president, greater China and since 2019, he has been president of EMEA and vice president of global retail at Gucci.

Testa holds a master’s degree in aerospace engineering from the Universita degli Studi di Roma La Sapienza.

Photo courtesy of Kering

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ering has announced the appointment of Gianfilippo Testa as CEO of Alexander McQueen, effective this month. He will report to François-Henri Pinault, and he succeeds Emmanuel Gintzburger, who is leaving the group to pursue new professional challenges outside Kering. A global luxury group, Kering manages the development of a series of renowned houses in fashion, leather goods and jewelry including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, Qeelin and Kering Eyewear.

As CEO of Alexander McQueen, Gianfilippo Testa’s mission will aim at accelerating the expansion of the British luxury House to tap its full potential, the luxury group said.

Gianfilippo Testa

our strategic priorities for the brand, as well as developing and implementing a plan that enables MVMT to achieve its long-term goals of delivering sustainable, profitable growth.”

ovado Group announced the appointment of Eran Cohen as the new chief executive officer of its MVMT brand. Cohen will be based at MVMT’s headquarters in Los Angeles, and will report to Behzad Soltani, executive vice president, commercial president and chief technology officer, Movado Group.

“I am thrilled and excited to welcome Eran to our team as we begin the next chapter for MVMT,” said Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO, Movado Group. “He has a plethora of experience in brand building and most recently held the role of CEO and president at St. John Knits where he successfully led the reinvigoration of the brand. I look forward to working with Eran on executing against

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MOVADO GROUP APPOINTS COHEN AS CEO OF MVMT

Prior to his role at St. John Knits, Cohen served as executive VP and chief customer experience officer for PetSmart, where he was responsible for creating a customer experience team, re-imagining the store design and in-store experience, marketing, public relations, data sciences and corporate communications, as well as all digital consumer touchpoints for the company. Cohen has led combinations of marketing, merchandising, design and digital teams for companies including Diane von Furstenberg, New York & Company and Payless ShoeSource.

CANADA GOOSE APPOINTS BAKER AS PRESIDENT

s a part of its continued global expansion, Canada Goose Holdings Inc. has announced the appointment of Carrie Baker to president, Canada Goose. The role will report to Dani Reiss, chairman and CEO, Canada Goose.

“Carrie has played an instrumental role in making Canada Goose the business it is today. She is a dynamic leader and proven operator, and I am excited to partner with her in executing the company’s bold vision,” said Reiss “This change in structure marks an important inflection point for Canada Goose, on our way to the next milestone.”

Baker has been with Canada Goose for more than 10 years, having also held positions of executive

vice president, chief of staff and chief communications officer. In her most recent role, Baker was responsible for accelerating the North American business, one of the company’s fastest-growing regions, achieving 36% revenue growth in the first three quarters of fiscal 2022.

“Seeing the company’s growth around the world and expansion into new categories over the last ten years, Canada Goose is truly a brand like no other,” said Baker. “I am proud of the incredible brand momentum we’ve built over the last decade, and our proven success in establishing sustainable industry standards, but it’s only the beginning — I am truly excited to unlock the incredible opportunity ahead of us.”

Photo courtesy of Business Wire

Carrie Baker

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FOOTWEAR

FASHION 411

Photo courtesy of Reebok

REEBOK PRESENTS CLASSIC LEATHER COLLECTION WITH “LIFE IS CLASSIC” PRODUCT STORY

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uilding upon its new brand platform, “Life is Not a Spectator Sport,” Reebok introduced “Life is Classic,” a product story that celebrates the versatile and timeless Classic Leather. An iconic design that has withstood the test of time, Classic Leather expands its legacy for Spring/Summer 2022 with a lineup of new narrative colorways and styles, brought to life by rising artists and their unique stories, said the

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footwear brand.

Comfortable and easy to wear with any outfit, Reebok’s SS22 Classic Leather range offers a fresh perspective on shape, feel and design via the legacy model that debuted nearly 40 years ago. The silhouette features a premium leather upper, lightweight EVA midsole cushioning, a lightweight construction and more. Key styles in

Reebok’s SS22 Classic Leather ranges include the 1983 Vintage style, inspired by the original 1983 CL colorway and featuring a vintage terry lining paired with a soft pegasus leather upper; the White Gum & White Grey style, which features clean white execution with a gum or grey bottom; the Make it Yours style, an all-white execution that makes up a bright and minimalist design; the Modernize style, a contemporary classic leather twist offered in a colorful mix of white and black with blue and neon accents and the SP style, which brings newness to legacy pieces with elevated cushioning and pastel accents.

“Classic Leather is one of Reebok’s most timeless sneakers that has cemented itself over the years as a true icon within the industry,” said Fionna McQueen, senior director of Classics product at Reebok. “For Spring/Summer ’22, we are excited to reintroduce the Classic Leather and expand upon its legacy. The range of creatives we have partnered with to tell our ‘Life is Classic’ story help celebrate the silhouette’s special heritage, while redefining what it means to be a Classic today.”

UNLIMITED FOOTWEAR GROUP AND GAP ANNOUNCE FOOTWEAR LICENSING AGREEMENT

Since announcing its intention to bring to market complementary products that embody the company’s unique brands in 2020, Gap Inc. has entered a number of licensing partnerships, including the launch of Gap Home.

The upcoming footwear collections will reflect Gap’s values of producing elevated, well-made and responsibly produced products through accessible, casual styles. The first Gap footwear collection by UFG for men, women and kids is sched-

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Photo courtesy of Gap Inc.

nlimited Footwear Group (UFG) has announced a strategic licensing partnership with Gap Inc. to design, produce and distribute Gap branded footwear throughout the entire European Union, the United Kingdom, Switzerland and Scandinavia, in a deal brokered by IMG. This announcement is the latest proof point in Gap Inc.’s “partner to amplify” strategy, which focuses on working with best-in-class companies to deliver cross-category product extensions that increase consumer touch points and drive brand loyalty while supporting the business in a new and cost-effective way, Gap said. uled to launch in Spring/Summer 2023.

for all stages in our customers’ lives.”

“Partnering with licensees such as Unlimited Footwear Group gives us the opportunity to amplify our strong, globally relevant brand and extend its reach to customers around the world,” said Adrienne Gernand, managing director of international, global licensing and wholesale at Gap Inc. “Through these licensing partnerships, we are able to grow our non-apparel categories and establish Gap as a lifestyle brand that delivers style

In partnership with Gap Inc., UFG’s The Heritage Footwear Company division, part of Unlimited Footwear Group, will manage the Gap Footwear collections. Next, The Heritage Footwear Company plans to launch two collections a year at a mid-price level and will distribute through its international sales network of both multi-brand fashion and sports retail and through wholesale and various online platforms.

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THE INDUSTRY’S TOP PICK FOR PREMIUM FASHION NEWS Engage with the most relevant, influential news in the fashion industry

BEAUTY

FASHION 411

E.L.F. COSMETICS AND DUNKIN’ DROP LIMITED-EDITION MAKEUP COLLABORATION

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eauty brand E.l.f. Cosmetics and coffee franchise Dunkin’ launched their limited-edition E.l.f. x Dunkin’ makeup collection. This collaboration brings together two of the most creative disruptors in their respective industries, available exclusively on elfcosmetics.com, at Ulta Beauty and ulta.com, said the brands.

“E.l.f. and Dunkin’ run on a shared mission to delight our communities, serve up excitement and help you to be your best (s)e.l.f.,” said Kory Marchisotto, chief marketing officer, E.l.f.

Beauty. “This [collaboration] is all about your morning must-haves. There is no better way to start your day than making a Dunkin’ run wearing your favorite E.l.f. makeup.”

Photo courtesy of Business Wire

The limited-edition “wake up and makeup” collection is coming in extra hot with an array of donut and coffee-inspired shades, shapes, textures and scents, the brand said. The collection includes the Dunkin’ Dozen, 12 shades of pigmented eyeshadows with creamy, bendable textures inspired by Dunkin’ donuts; Donut Forget Putty Primer, a primer featuring a smooth texture, sweet donut scent and soft focus, glowing finish; Coffee Lip Scrub, a gentle, exfoliating scrub that will leave lips smoothed and conditioned with a coffee scent; Strawberry Frosted with Sprinkles Face Sponge, a donut-inspired sponge for blending and the Classic Dunkin’ Stack Vault, the complete five-piece collection that includes a limited-edition branded reusable cup and straw-inspired brush set.

L’ORÉAL AND EMOTIV LAUNCH DEVICE TO HELP CONSUMERS PERSONALIZE FRAGRANCE CHOICES

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’Oréal and Emotiv, the neurotechnology company, have announced a strategic partnership in beauty to help consumers make personalized choices around their fragrances.

“We are constantly developing innovative, personalized experiences for our consumers,” said Guive Balooch, who is the head of L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator. “The intersection of neurotech, AI and science is an exciting next step.

The science of choosing a fragrance is very complex. This partnership promises innovation for the entire beauty industry as this is truly the first time that consumers will have access to a state-of-the-art, in-store experience that uses neuroscience to provide personalized, precise fragrance advice.”

Created by L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator, Yves Saint Laurent and a team of fragrance experts alongside Emotiv, the fragrance consultation experience connects neuro responses to fragrance preferences through a multi-sensor EEG-based headset. The headset uses machine learning algorithms that interpret EEG, while consumers experience proprietary scent families, to provide the ability to accurately monitor behavior, preferences, stress and attention in

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“We’ve long admired the genuine connection E.l.f. has forged with [its] community and believe it mirrors the

connection we have with our Dunkin’ fans,” said Peter Callaro, vice president of integrated marketing communications, Dunkin’. “We’re thrilled to team up with E.l.f. to bring Dunkin’ devotees an exciting, new way to power their ‘get-upand-go’ daily routine.”

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real-world contexts.

“Together with L’Oréal, we hope this partnership provides unique insights into how consumers feel about fragrances and about how scents make them feel through an unbiased lens,” said Tan Le, CEO of Emotiv. “We’re simplifying the decision-making process by connecting emotion and scent through technology — in a way no one has done before. Rooted in science and powerful insights, this technological breakthrough will help consumers decode what fragrances are best suited to their needs.”

“There are thousands of fragrance options, and we know it can be challenging for consumers to navigate the vast number of scents and make a choice that’s right for them,” said Stephan Bezy, international general manager at Yves Saint Laurent Beauté. “Through this immersive system,

Photo courtesy of L’Oréal, Groupe

we were able to get 95% of people the right fragrance personalized to their needs and desires, which is enormously higher than without this technology. It’s a huge first step in this category. Once we know which scents make people feel happy, energized, or other emotions, we can customize fragrances even more — the potential is boundless.”

The experience will be available globally in Yves Saint Laurent flagship stores through 2023.

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COLLECTIONS

FASHION 411

H&M’S LATEST COLLABORATION WITH MARTCELLIA LIUNIC CELEBRATES CREATIVITY and kids to the age of 14. With an overall colorful palette of pink, lilac, ocean blue, black, white, bright red and emerald green, the positive energy really comes to life, H&M said.

The collection is made using innovative and more sustainable print techniques, including digital printing, which consumes less water, less energy and fewer chemicals than traditional printing. Each piece has also been crafted from at least 50% sustainably sourced materials. The collection also offers a wide range of trainers in the collection, including some made with Bananatex, an innovative fabric made purely from banana plants.

Photo courtesy of H&M

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&M embraces kids’ self-expression and creativity with its latest kidswear collection, said the brand. Starring Jakarta-based artist Martcellia Liunic’s illustrations of creatures, plants, flowers and shapes, the energetic colors and bold prints exude playfulness on current styles. Printed onto a range of children’s clothing, trainers and accessories, the collection has been created using print techniques with

“We’re proud to bring more innovative printing techniques to the fore — making each piece a bright way to start the season,” Löfstedt added.

TARGET PARTNERS WITH STONEY CLOVER LANE ON CUSTOMIZABLE LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

arget Corporation announced its spring collaboration with Stoney Clover Lane, a customizable accessories brand, on a limited-time collection of more than 300 items, including colorful apparel and swimwear, travel accessories, beauty essentials, outdoor items and more. For easy customization, kits and individual patches allow customers to uniquely tailor many products to fit any style. Ranging in price from $2 to $160, with most items under $20, the collection is available on target.com and in most Target stores.

Stoney Clover Lane was founded in 2009 by sisters Kendall and Libby Glazer, who took everyday organization to the next level with their line of travel accessories designed to celebrate individuality, allowing customers to express their personal style through the art of creation and personalization. Stoney Clover Lane quickly gained a wide social media following, thanks to the brand’s instantly recognizable coordinating patches and customization options that can be mixed-and-matched with any of its products, said Target.

“We know our guests are increasingly looking

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Liunic’s whimsical, doodle-like illustrations are featured on t-shirts, tank tops, sweatshirts, hoodies, shorts, skirts, dresses and joggers, as well as accessories including hats, bags and socks. The collection is available for babies (online only)

for unique ways to show off their personal style, and Stoney Clover Lane is a brand we’ve had our eye on for a while, since they are known for their customizable pieces,” said Jill Sando, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer, Target. “We’ve admired how the brand has created such a highly recognizable aesthetic with a deeply engaged audience and know our guests will love finding Stoney Clover Lane at Target, just in time to show off their individual style for spring.”

Photo courtesy of Target Corporation

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lower environmental impact. The Liunic x H&M collection is currently available for purchase in stores as well as on hm.com.

“With this collection, we want to embrace fun prints, vibrant colors, and fresh designs,” said Sofia Löfstedt, who is head of kidswear design at H&M. “Martcellia Liunic’s illustrations are such a glorious complement, especially as we also want to inspire kids to feel free when expressing themselves, carrying joy and creativity into everyday life!”

“Our partnership with Target allows us to scale our brand and grow our community to a place we could never have imagined. We are so eager to launch this collaboration with Target, which marks our first foray into several new categories like ready-to-wear, suitcases, electronics and more,” said Kendall Glazer.

be part of that experience this spring and inspire customers to let their personal style shine,” said Libby Glaze.

“Stoney Clover Lane is all about re-imagining the everyday and making it full of color and fun.

There’s nothing better than a Target run and we are overjoyed that Stoney Clover Lane gets to

The Stoney Clover Lane x Target collection features warm-weather must-haves that are easy to mix, match and personalize. Apparel and swim items range in size from XXS to 4X. MAY 2022

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HEARTFULLY YOURS ORNAMENTS AND HOME DÉCOR CELEBRATES LIFE'S MOST SPECIAL OCCASIONS

BY JOSEPH PASTRANA

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elcome to renowned artist Christopher Radko’s third act! Unbeknownst to the general public, Radko has been away from the scene for the past 15 years — but at this year’s Atlanta Gift Market 2022 preview, attendees were treated to a wonderful surprise to see the artist’s return with an all new year-round collection of breathtaking glass ornaments under his new brand Heartfully Yours (stylized as HeARTfully Yours).

Hailed by the New York Times as “The Ornament King” and “The Czar of Christmas Present,” Radko is a much-beloved figure by his customers and fans for his finely crafted ornaments that adorn homes all over the world.

But even as those who witnessed the unveiling in Atlanta unanimously raved over his first new collection in close to two decades, a legal challenge arrived to cast a dark cloud over the joyful moment. Rauch Industries, the company that currently owns the rights to the trademark Christopher Radko, filed an injunction to prevent Radko from using his own name in reference to the new brand.

The story of Radko’s passion for creating unique collectibles was born from a mishap that took place when he was just 24 years old. One Christmas, his family decked a 14-foot tree with their heirloom glass ornaments, and the new stand on which he had mounted it collapsed under the weight and shattered almost everything.

“I still vividly remember my grandmother say I had ruined Christmas forever!

I was devastated,” Radko said.

Determined to save the holidays, he found help at a glassblowing factory, where the artisans were able to recreate some of the broken pieces from sketches he made. Along with some original designs, Radko came home with new ornaments — and everyone who saw them wanted to purchase some for themselves.

While working at a talent agency, Radko designed more pieces and spent his lunch breaks making the rounds to retail stores in New York to show off his wares. Eventually, his eponymous brand was born and small boutiques and jewelry stores began to carry the line — and soon, the brand would grow exponentially nationwide, attracting celebrity fans including Elton John, Oprah Winfrey, Robert Redford, Kim Basinger, Elizabeth Taylor, John Travolta, Bruce Springsteen, Hugh Jackman, Dolly Parton, Robert DeNiro, Kris and Kylie Jenner and Arnold Schwarzenegger. The brand’s first Hanukkah ornaments were created at the request of Barbra Streisand.

But the pressures of the business began to take a toll on Radko, and he was advised by his physicians to ease up on his workload. In 2005, he sold the company and the Christopher Radko brand to Rauch Industries.

“I spent the interim with new adventures from being an event planner and a holiday tour guide to growing organic lavender and producing spa skincare

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products,” said Radko. “I even had time to write my memoir.”

Entitled “Life’s a Work of Heart,” Radko’s autobiography chronicles his personal journey — and is certain to be a riveting must-read when it reportedly comes out next year. Throughout the years, though, Radko’s original passion and artistic genius never truly waned, and when the non-compete agreement with Rauch Industries expired in August 2021, he went on to create his new line of ornaments.

But earlier this year, Rauch Industries filed a complaint in Federal District Court in New York that sought to prevent Radko from fairly using his own name for his new brand. Fortunately, the court denied Rauch Industries’ preliminary injunction motion.

In documents made public after the ruling, the court stated that “[As] long as Mr. Radko continues to use his name, as he has, in a manner other than as a mark, he does not infringe on Rauch’s registered trademark. [Mr. Radko] is within his rights to advertise his affiliation with any company selling seasonal décor … [and] is free to use his own name in a descriptive sense as long as he’s not using it as a mark.”

The artist’s Heartfully Yours collection is handcrafted in limited-edition quantities by nine personally selected European families.

“Nothing is mass produced, these are, as I call them, ‘works of heart’, created at small cottage workshops where the mom and dad and kids are still involved, just like the old days,” Radko said. “My ornaments carry forth the legacy traditions of Poland, Germany, Czech Republic and Italy, and these are the only countries where the ornaments are made.”

“My passion is sharing the spirit of Christmas all year long. This is not just a business for me —it has to have heart. Each ornament takes a whole week to make, and I personally oversee each one with my stamp of approval,” Radko added.

When it comes to Heartfully Yours, these aren’t the multitudes of ornaments that roll down an assembly line — and every customer will assuredly be getting original ornaments that were designed by Radko himself. Making these new pieces even more special is the fact that Radko will dedicate a portion of the proceeds to aid various worthy causes including heart disease and breast cancer prevention, AIDS research, food insecurity and, now, Ukraine relief.

In Radko’s words, “My ornaments go the extra mile by raising much-needed funds for these vital non-profits and programs.”

Long-time collectors and new fans can rejoice that Radko has returned to his roots with this all-new Heartfully Yours collection of memory-making ornaments that celebrate all holidays and special life events. Radko shared, “I am thrilled to be back. Most people retire in their 60s, but I get to start a whole new ‘act three’ in my life, and it will be the best one ever!”

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We’re back! Please join us for exciting and informative program as we We’rethe back!

Please joinretail us forindustry. excitingOur andexpert informative program as we discuss future of the speaker will share discuss the future of the retail industry.

Our expert speaker will share his years of experience with trade shows and what the future looks like of experience trade shows and what the futureand looks like for his theyears retail industry.

Comewith network with retailers, manufacturers service for thespecializing retail industry.

Come network with retailers,electronics, manufacturers service providers in consumer products including: toys, and accessories, providers specializing in consumer products including: electronics, toys, accessories, food & beverage, apparel, e-commerce and more! food & beverage, apparel, e-commerce and more!

MAY 19, 2022 MAY 19, 2022

@ E-Central Downtown @ E-Central Downtown Los Angeles Hotel Los Angeles Hotel

4:00 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.

4:00 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.

Tickets: Tickets: $50/ticket $50/ticket

Keynote Speaker Keynote Speaker Tom Nastos

Tom NastosBluEnsign LLC Co-Founder, Co-Founder, BluEnsign LLC

Tom Nastos is a Co-Founder of BluEnsign, a strategic advisory firm serving consumer brands and event planning organizations the entire global chain.

He drives Tom Nastos is a Co-Founder of BluEnsign, across a strategic advisory firmvalue serving consumer business development and execution of client mandates focused onvalue digital transformations, brands and event planning organizations across the entire global chain.

He drives commercialization, partnerships and alliances, new market entry,on product innovation, business development and execution of client mandates focused digital transformations, and financial forecasting.

Previously Commercial Officer of the Fashion Group at commercialization, partnerships andChief alliances, new market entry, product innovation, Informa, a multinational intelligence, andof exhibitions group with and financial forecasting.publishing, Previously business Chief Commercial Officer the Fashion Group at $4B in annual revenues, Tom boosted annual intelligence, revenues with technology innovation.

Informa, a multinational publishing, business and exhibitionsand group with $4B in annual revenues, Tom boosted annual revenues with technology and innovation.

MEDIA SPONSOR MEDIA SPONSOR

To register visit: www.marcumevents.com/retail-symposium To register visit: www.marcumevents.com/retail-symposium

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VISION has become

Availabilities from 12,712 RSF - 30,289 RSF Bold New Entrances & Retail Storefronts New Turnstiles for Touchless Entry Newly Renovated Lobby with Sleek Modern Design State-of-the-Art Facial Recognition at Select Turnstiles New Grab & Go Coffee Shop & Lounge Area New Touchless Destination Dispatch Elevators to Maximize Service Experience the Transformation as it Unfolds

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Peter S. Duncan I 212.481.1137 I pduncan@gcomfort.com Matt Coudert I 212.542.2121 I mcoudert@gcomfort.com Andrew F. Conrad I 212.542.2101 I aconrad@gcomfort.com MAY 2022 FM | 41

YENAÉ INTRODUCES MULTI-WEAR JEWELRY INSPIRED BY AFRICAN BASKET WEAVING Photos courtesy of Diamond Theedon

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enaé is an online-based high fashion jewelry brand that takes patrons on a journey inside the heritage of Africa through exquisite jewelry designs that blend culture and storytelling with a twist of modern design appeal. Derived from Ethiopia’s native Amharic language and translating to “mine,” Yenaé is at the intersection of fashion, storytelling and culture to create a one-of-a-kind jewelry collection and “[tell] an organically African story to change the perception and narrative of the continent at large [and] showcase Africa in a positive light,” the brand says on its website. These storytelling efforts include the brand’s jewelry design, gift-ready packaging and note cards

that are included with each purchase to share the background and inspiration behind the designs, which often comes from working closely with historians and storytellers, the brand said.

Yenaé was born out of the shared experiences of two female Ethiopian-Americans and jewelry lovers, Seble Alemayehu and Felekech (Fei) Biratu, who began their relationship as high school friends in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. While living in different parts of the United States in their adulthoods, they saw the magnitude of the lack of awareness that existed about Africa, especially in terms of positive representation. Due to their first-hand knowledge about the creativity, craftsmanship and resources that

exist in Africa, Alemayehu and Biratu took the opportunity to pursue their passion for jewelry.

“We put a lot of thought, attention and care into the collections we create, while maintaining focus on ensuring consistency and product safety. This extends to how we form collaborations to source and manufacture our products and the stories behind product lines. We aim to grow our brand to expand our manufacturing base to Africa, the source for our brand’s product line inspirations,” said the founders.

With Yenaé, Alenayehu and Biratu created a brand that showcases positive narratives of Africa through jewelry that appeals to a wide

range of enthusiasts. Yenaé offers silver and recycled brass pieces, plated with 14K gold or rhodium; responsibly and ethically sourced Ethiopian semi-precious gemstones, hand-crafted by artisans in Ethiopia and hand-polished hypoallergenic jewelry made in California. Ranging from simple, everyday jewelry to one-of-a-kind, contemporary statement pieces, each jewelry has a story behind its design, sourced from historians and storytellers.

of 14K gold-plated ear jackets, cuff bracelets and pendant necklaces; the Semi-precious Gemstone collection of telsom chrysoprase and quartz stackable rings and the Cross Collection, made up of pieces featuring the Axum cross and the Lalibela cross. For men’s jewelry, the Dorze Tibeb collection — inspired by the weaving traditions of the Dorze people of Southern Ethiopia — offers a selection of 14K gold-plated and rhodium-plated hand-painted cufflinks.

Yenaé’s product range includes a women’s line that is made up of bracelets, earrings, rings, necklaces and versatile-wear pieces, and a men’s collection featuring cufflinks and bracelets. The brand also offers a number of specified collections, including the Tsirur collection

What makes Yenaé stand out is its growing creative focus on offering customers multi-wear jewelry, the brand said. Currently, about half of Yenaé’s jewelry collection fits into this category, whereby a single jewelry piece can be worn in a minimum of three different styles so that

wearers can always have a unique accessory on hand. One of the brand’s latest releases, the Sefed earring, is able to be worn as a necklace, stud earring, drop earring and more to easily adapt to a formal, casual or dressy look, said the brand. The Sefed earring is 14K gold-plated on recycled brass, and the earring backings are made from 925 sterling silver plated on 14K gold. Another versatile piece is the Tsiruri ring, which can be worn in over four different configurations, including on multiple fingers and various stacked styles.

The founders say that with Yenaé, they aim to positively influence a consumption pattern that moves towards a more sustainable community — which also moves away from fast fashion.

COCO & EVE THE RISE OF THE CULT BRAND LEADING THE INDIE BEAUTY MARKET

BY CHRISTY LINDER Photos courtesy of Coco & Eve

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oco & Eve’s story began in the tropical oasis of Bali. Brand founders Emily Hamilton, an Australian businesswoman, and her husband Alex Ostrowski found themselves often escaping to the island paradise, which ignited their idea to harness the rich ingredients that Indonesia offers to create a beauty brand that is vegan, cruelty-free and packed with nutrients. From searching for balance in Ubud to indulging in luxurious massages, Hamilton found endless inspiration and rejuvenation in Bali.

As she hiked up a volcano one morning, an idea took root: what if she could bottle that Bali magic with beauty products that combined luscious ingredients with serious science?

Through her market research, Hamilton noticed how many brands use harmful chemicals and sought out to set a new, clean beauty standard. Coco & Eve’s brand purpose is to deliver products that are packed with beneficial ingredients that are kind to your hair, body, skin and the environment.

With this brand mission in mind, the team spent years testing, developing and perfecting product formulas. One ingredient in particular stood out: the coconut! Known for its deeply hydrating benefits, coconut nourishes and moisturizes the hair, leaving it smooth and silky. It also has repairing properties which helps restructure dry and damaged hair and prevent breakage. Indonesia is notably the world’s largest coconut producer, so it was only right to use coconut as the star ingredient within Coco & Eve products.

With this development, Coco & Eve launched its first product in 2018, the multi-award winning “Like a Virgin” hair masque, which quickly rose to fame with a cult-like following and went on to win 12 beauty awards from notable titles.

The brand quickly gained momentum over social media, as the founders believed in harnessing the power of influencer marketing from the start; this garnered worldwide exposure for the brand and secured reach across the United States, U.K. and Europe. Being an e-commerce first brand, Coco & Eve are constantly engaging with its ever-growing community, which the

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brand feels is one of the driving factors for their success. Coco & Eve believes in listening to its customers and building a two-way communication stream between them and the brand.

alone, Coco & Eve will launch 10 new products across its product categories — which include hair, skin and tanning — as well as one new beauty franchise.

Favorite Products & Brand Milestones In just four years, the “Like A Virgin” range has grown from one to six products, including the hydrating shampoo and conditioner set; the nourishing silky hair masque and elixir; the deep clean scalp scrub and deep conditioning bundle. Some milestones along the way include the brand’s much-anticipated shampoo and conditioner launch. Under development for three years, the shampoo and conditioner formulas were perfected to hydrate the hair without weighing it down, foaming and cleansing the hair without the use of silicon or sulfates.

The beauty market has seen a growing trend in consumer awareness regarding efficacy levels of ingredients. Today’s beauty consumers are savvy and discerning — they deeply care about the products they’re using on their skin, body and hair. With more consumer attention placed on ingredients, Coco & Eve has strived to further improve the efficacy of their formulas.

Another milestone was the launch of the deep clean scalp scrub, which continues volcanic ash and coconut shell to exfoliate flakes and dead skin while increasing cellular turnover in the scalp, which has been shown to reduces dandruff with continued use. The miracle hair elixir has also been a top-selling product, with its benefits including heat protection, UV protection and instant shine.

Coco & Eve customers also love the “Sunny Honey” range, which includes the bronzing foam, which is the world’s first product of its kind utilizing cellushape technology, that continues antioxidants to smooth skin, fight cellulite and blur pigmentation. The bronzing foam was quickly followed by the brand’s bronzing face drops, which offer a glow with 100% natural DHA while boosting the skin with hydration through nourishing ingredients such as dragonfruit and hyaluronic acid.

The Future of Coco & Eve Coco & Eve is a quickly-expanding brand in the global indie beauty segment, growing 240% in the last 24 months, said the brand. It has also recently expanded across online retail channels, including Amazon, and in 2022 will be placed in 577 physical retail stores opening across Australia, Canada and Europe. Not only is retail expansion a driving goal for the brand, but product innovation is key as well. This year

Focusing on Innovation Coco & Eve says that the acceleration of new scientific territories that the beauty market has experienced through the past three to four years has had a significant impact on the brand’s innovation strategies.

“On one hand we aim to design the safest and cleanest formulas and on the other hand our ingredient platform has expanded to include more technical ingredients with strong proven efficacy endorsed by dermatologists,” said Nassim Belhaq, innovation director, Coco & Eve. “Our challenge is to design the best product delivering the right amount of efficacy and conveying to the best the brand DNA through a unique sensory experience. Territories such as microbiome addressed with prebiotics or postbiotics, biomimetic technologies, new generation of antioxidants, peptides and ceramides will infuse our upcoming unique launches.”

The “skinification” of the hair segment has also fueled the brand’s innovation strategies. Coco & Eve says that it is continually looking for the most innovative hair technologies to be formulated in cutting-edge treatments for customers that are easy to use and always bring a sense of the Balinese vibe.

“We are designing a unique beauty signature at the crossroads of safety, sustainability, ultimate sensory and proven efficacy,” added Belhaq.

With so many new developments on the horizon, Coco & Eve is a notable brand to watch in the indie beauty space.

MAY 2022

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FRNCH

THE FREE-SPIRITED WOMENSWEAR BRAND INSPIRED BY TIMELESS, PARISIAN STYLE

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO Photos courtesy of FRNCH

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RNCH (pronounced “French”), the Paris-based womenswear brand founded in 2015 that marries Parisian style with timeless and cosmopolitan garments, began with a meeting between Chloé Jin and Franck Lin, who would become the brand’s artistic director and sales manager respectively. A quintessential Parisian couple — both were passionate about fashion, trends and style, and grew up immeshed in the fashion industry — the pair was frustrated with the traditional workings of fashion wholesale, which for them, involved daily price negotiations and the lack of personal flair making up the clothing they received.

Taking matters into their own hands, Jin and Lin founded their brand FRNCH — which, fittingly, is the contraction of their two first names along with a reference to the brand’s home country — which was built from the philosophy to offer the latest trends accessibly, creatively and uniquely. The brand says that it values “open-mindedness, joy and diversity” which is embodied in FRNCH’s commitment to producing garments in more natural fabrics and its multi-national executive team and staff.

In the brand’s nearly 10 years of business, FRNCH has expanded to offer classic tops and graphic T-shirts, sweater vests, dresses, shirt jackets, trouser pants and belted jumpsuits in a variety of fabrics and color palettes that are effortlessly clean and chic. For each season’s release of clothing and accessories, the brand’s prints are hand-drawn and digitally edited and enhanced by Paris-based graphic designers who draw from personal inspiration to create designs that are totally unique to FRNCH and its aesthetic DNA. Color is also a crucial ingredient in FRNCH’s signature look, as both the brand’s warm- and cold-weather season collections are charged with bright colors to evoke positivity and energy. The complimentary color palettes and bold patterns encourage wearers to express their personalities through mixing and matching seemingly clashing patterns and experimenting with silhouettes.

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According to the brand, “to be FRNCH is to be free, colorful, passionate and bold,” with clothing and accessories that capture the balance between chic and casual.

Recently, Jin has transitioned to sole management of the company, leading FRNCH with her design vision of “for women, by women.”

As general manager and artistic director, the brand is now an almost entirely women-run and -designed fashion company, bringing together a unique, diverse group of talents to create each seasonal collection.

This month, FRNCH will participate as an exhibiting brand at FashionGo Week in Palm Springs. As the first in-person event presented

by FashionGo — a global business-to-business wholesale e-commerce marketplace for the fashion industry — FashionGo Week will merge the platform’s online tools and services with the in-person wholesale community.

Backdropped by a California oasis, FashionGo Week integrates the platform’s online discovery tool, StyleMatch+, while offering the opportunity for brands to share their merchandise and connect with an entirely new market of customers and retailers that are looking for the latest trends and timeless styles.

Ahead of FashionGo Week, Jin shared FRNCH’s brand ethos, what the brand’s customers are loving as the weather moves into the warmer temperatures of spring and what she has learned through the brand’s almost 10year history.

Have you always loved fashion? Do you have any formative memories related to fashion?

Chloé Jin: When I was growing up, we didn’t have much, so I would shop at thrift stores and look through all of the vintage stuff. I loved the fact that because I shopped there, the pieces that I wore were unique — no one could be wearing the same things as me! My parents worked in fashion, so I was also influenced by their jobs. I grew up around fashion and retail.

My dad taught me everything he knew about fashion and how to make a business work, so that’s how I started.

How would you sum up what quintessential “French style” is, both locally to the country and globally?

CJ: French women are known for their effortless and chic style — it’s essential to feel good in your clothes without trying too hard.

What would you say is FRNCH’s brand ethos? What some of the hallmarks of FRNCH’s designs?

CJ: The main idea behind all of our collections is to make our customers feel like they are the best that they can be when they wear our clothes. We want our designs to uplift our customers spirits and to bring them joy. We’re inspired by the elegance and casual style of the classic Parisian girl, and we love to add a modern twist. We’re really into colors and unique prints. We don’t necessarily follow trends — instead, we are interested in creating the pieces that we would love to have and keep in our wardrobe throughout the seasons.

Where do FRNCH’s designers find their inspiration when they’re creating pieces for the brand’s individual collections?

CJ: Our inspiration comes from all sorts of places. It might come from something we’ve seen recently, like an art exhibition or a street style look, and it can also come from a past memory or personal experience of our designers.

Who is the FRNCH customer?

CJ: Our collections are designed for what we call the “FRNCH Girl 2.0” She’s fun and outgoing, and she is not afraid to be bold but always integrates a timeless piece to her outfit. She feels good in her clothes without feeling like she is trying too hard!

What would you say are your most popular pieces right now, and of all time?

CJ: At the moment, our hand-made, chunkyknit sweaters and cardigans have been selling very well — the styles are unique, happy and brightly colored! They are so easy and fun to wear that we’ve had to reproduce various SKUs [(stock-keeping units)] in multiple iterations.

Overall, considering our global sales, we have a really big range of jumpsuits and rompers in

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“

“

The main idea behind all of our collections is to make our customers feel like they are the best that they can be when they wear our clothes.

— Chloé Jin

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our collection [that are popular]. These styles are something that our clients have always appreciated — they’re classic FRNCH styles.

How has your brand shifted and matured since 2015? What are some of the most surprising things you’ve learned from starting the brand?

CJ: Since 2015, we have expanded a lot, including distributing our garments internationally.

We have defined the FRNCH woman that we want to dress with our collections and the values that we want our brand to transmit. A key focus of ours as we are growing FRNCH has been to develop an ethical brand that could also be a sustainable business.

The most surprising thing I have learned about my brand was that [in a leadership position], you do not always get to do what you love to do the most. When I started FRNCH, I was the head of the creative department, and that was what I was really passionate about. When

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I took over management of the business, I realized that I had to spend a lot of time managing the team and delegating the workload — in the new role, I was figuring it all out as I did it.

What advice can you share with entrepreneurs who are interested in starting their own fashion brands?

CJ: The best advice that I would give to upand-coming entrepreneurs is to gain as much knowledge and experience in the fashion business as you can — it is key to know how a fashion business works. I would also say that your employees and the people that work with you are at the heart of a successful business.

What are some trends for spring/summer and beyond that you both are most excited to see grow in popularity?

CJ: For the spring and summer seasons this year, we’re most excited to see women of all ages feeling confident and trying out new things, including playing with their personal

style with different colors. With our colorful and playful collections, our goal is to communicate these kinds of positive, liberated vibes.

What are you most looking forward to during FashionG Week?

CJ: We are most looking forward to meeting all of our existing customers as well as saying hello to new buyers. FashionGo is an important asset to the fashion buying community, linking buyers with brands through a convenient online platform. We certainly appreciate being apart of their ecosystem and look forward to cultivating long-lasting relationships with all of our partners.

What is coming up next for FRNCH? CJ: A pop-up store in Paris – the fashion capital of the world!

Follow FRNCH on Instagram (@frnch_us) for updates and news. Garments and accessories are available for purchase at us-frnch.fr.

MAY 2022

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National Jewish Health LOS ANGELES REAL ESTATE

GOL F C L A S S I C Monday, May 16, 2022 El Caballero Country Club Tarzana, California 2022 COMMITTEE Anthony Behrstock

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The Eberly Company

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Don’t miss this opportunity to play at the newly redesigned course at El Caballero Country Club.

Reserve your foursome or sponsorship today at njhealth.org/lagolf or contact Keri Henning at 818.905.1300 or HenningK@njhealth.org.

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PETER MANNING NYC MENSWEAR EXPANDS IN 10TH YEAR

BY JOSEPH PASTRANA Photos courtesy of Peter Manning NYC

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he reasons why some companies flourished while others floundered during the lockdown and uncertainty of the pandemic are many and complex. Certain companies, such as bars and restaurants, rely heavily on the physical presence of customers; on the other hand, businesses equipped with e-commerce sites may have benefited from people feeling stir crazy and perhaps indulging in too many online purchases.

Still others may have in fact had the opportunity to clean out their closets only to discover that they had too many articles of clothing that were ill-fitting and that they were in dire need of a better wardrobe. That could be the explanation for how, through the quarantine, Peter Manning NYC experienced an impressive 50% increase in sales.

Business at Peter Manning NYC has been steadily growing since it launched 10 years ago. By stroke of coincidence and some astute business foresight, the last decade has also seen a growing awareness in the fashion industry that clothing needed to accommodate a wider size range than the usual small-medium-large template. Although the “big and tall” category has been around for some time (since the 1920s for women, and the 1950s for men), there hasn’t been much traction moving in the opposite direction — to create garments that were specifically tailored for men shorter than the majority. It didn’t help that the social standards of an “ideal” man included substantial height, or that according to studies by the National Center for Health Statistic, the average American male stands at around 5’9”.

But in time, the rest of the 25% to 30% of the male population below that average height began to realize that they weren’t willing to settle for the voluminous apparel they’ve had to put up with from the major brands. Contributing to a reassessment of sizing in apparel was the boom of health and fitness that began in the late 1980s and exploded in the 1990s.

Soon after, the objectification of the male form became more prevalent in pubic discourse. Those factors led to an overall industry trend in nearly all categories of both womenswear and menswear for clothes that cut closer to the body.

As more men became more comfortable with some degree of vanity, they also became more invested in better-fitting clothes and menswear became increasingly narrower and fitted.

Through it all, Peter Manning, a New York theater producer who stands at 5’8”, was acutely aware of the situation.

For years, the clothes-conscious Manning would routinely buy something he liked and then have it altered to his size by a tailor. In 2012, he started Peter Manning NYC with a pair of classic chinos that became an instant hit, and his eponymous label was up and running online.

But truth be told, early success came about more from the enthusiastic response of an unserved market. Manning had to learn the trade by trial and error.

Vital help arrived several years later, when MBA graduate Jeff Hansen came onboard with business savvy earned from his experience working at J. McLaughlin, Frette and La Perla.

In the beginning, the smart move for

Peter Manning NYC was to embrace the direct-to-consumer online model. During the brand’s foundational years, this strategy proved advantageous as the target market was attuned to shopping online.

But the day did arrive when it was decided that opening offices in Manhattan where the brand could also set up a fit shop to welcome customers might be beneficial. In the upper floors of a Flatiron district building, samples of the line’s dress, polo, Henley and T-shirts, jeans, casual and dress pants, along with hoodies, vests, jackets and overcoats are on display. By appointment, customers may come in to select the styles and try them on to find the correct size. The garment is then shipped directly to the customer within a day or so depending on the distance — because yes, the brand does get customers from all over the globe. The brand’s prices are accessible, with shirts and pants starting at around $98, suit jackets and pants from $450 and $195 respectively and outerwear from $195 to $295.

According to the brand’s counsel and marketing strategist, Zachary Fields, the not-so-big secret is proportion. “We scale down to size. Pants inseams start at 25 inches, have a medium rise, slimmer legs with precise knee breaks and narrower ankle openings,” Fields said. “Shirts and jackets have narrower and shorter sleeves, slimmer widths and hang exactly right around the waist.”

Fields added, “We pay as much attention to important details like button stance, size and placement of pockets, as well as the right width for lapels and collars.”

All in all, Peter Manning NYC offers 12

FEATURES

shirt sizes and 50 pant sizes based on height, weight and body type with slim, standard and wide fits. The brand has a proprietary one-to-four sizing system as well as 2X, 4X and 4XL that covers men from 5’7” and 145 pounds to 5’10” and 200 pounds.

All of the garments are designed by an in-house team while a 15,000 square foot warehouse in Brooklyn serves as storage and shipping center for the garments.

Late last year, Manning decided to step down and Hansen bought out his shares to become the sole owner and CEO. Today on its 10th anniversary, the Peter Manning NYC team is eager to expand their reach to other major U.S. cities with Los Angeles the likeliest of stops for another brick-and-mortar studio. Fields attests to the broad cross-section of clients the brand receives at the Manhattan location — and with more physical locations at diversely populated cities, the potential for new customers of “lesser” stature to discover Peter Manning NYC may indeed be limitless.

OH POLLY FROM CHARITABLE ENDEAVORS TO GLOBAL FASHION COMPANY

BY OMAR CUNNINGHAM Photos courtesy of Oh Polly

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laire Henderson and Mike Branney, the founders and owners of U.K.based brand Oh Polly, were initially looking for ways to fund their charity for impoverished children and families in Cambodia, The Brannerson Foundation — and they ended up ended up creating a fashion empire. In order to reach their financing goals, Henderson and Branney chose to create a trendy, fun and affordable fashion brand that would generate quick turnaround sales. Little did they know, this side venture, launched in 2015, would skyrocket and reach the level of success that it has today!

After launching the brand on eBay, Henderson and Branney were pleasantly surprised when sales began to really take off. As the brand grew, so did the scope of the design spectrum: with an international design team that keeps its eyes and ears open to trends and what women want from their fashion, Oh Polly offers a plethora of affordable, quality designs that satisfy their customer base, including sexy body con dresses and dresses featuring strategic cutouts, swimwear, cover-ups, tops, bottoms, shoes, coats, jackets and denim as well as loungewear and intimates. And most importantly, Oh Polly is size inclusive, designing its garments for petite women, tall women and women with curves.

Henderson, Oh Polly’s CEO, creative director and art director, says that she spends most of her time creating mood boards and style guides and overseeing the general art direction that goes into every photoshoot for each new collection.

She also spends a large part of her time conducting market research keeping her eye on the fashion industry, forecasts and trends.

Branney — who is the brand’s managing director and also holds a PhD in engineering — works with the day-to-day logistics of managing the brand. A multi-awarded entrepreneur, he was voted as the National Scale-Up Entrepreneur of the Year 2020 in the Great British Entrepreneur Awards and the Creative Industries Entrepreneur of the Year 2020 for Scotland and Northern Ireland.

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Branney also recently sat on a panel of seasoned entrepreneurial enthusiasts to choose finalists for the new Startup Awards National Series, a program launched to recognize the booming start up scene across the U.K. In recognizing the changes in today’s market and the wants and needs of today’s fashion shoppers, Henderson and Branney moved away from the traditional design model of offering just two collections and a resort collection each year, and have adapted to what direct consumers are asking for these days: unscheduled “drops” debuting bi-monthly capsule collections. This keeps the brand’s customer base engaged with their social media presence and on the lookout for teasers announcing upcoming drops, events and contests to win some of the latest swim, fitness and ready-to-wear pieces, said the brand.

When it came to the company business model, Oh Polly also chose to stay current right out of the gate with a social-first structure centered around industry-leading Instagram and Facebook accounts. Often referring to their followers colloquially as “sis,” the founders take a personalized approach with their engagement. Today, the brand has a combined following of five million-plus on social media, selling products in almost every country around the world.

In just a few years since the company’s inception, Oh Polly now has offices in Glasgow, Liverpool, Los Angeles, Dhaka and Guangzhou, with over 200 employees in the U.K. and 300 more directly employed worldwide. Though the company grew at a rapid pace, it wasn’t all smooth sailing.

Henderson and Branney shared that one of the first suppliers that they trusted stole £30,000 ($40,000 USD) from the brand — which, at the time, was all of their funding.

the founders said. “Every successful person hasn’t quit.” And quit they did not. Henderson and Branney persevered through this disappointing low point, and before they knew it, they were back on track — and the numbers quickly began to prove that the brand would go global.

In 2020, Oh Polly launched Bo+Tee, the brand’s much-loved activewear collection, and Neena Swim, the stylish swimwear brand, in 2021. Oh Polly often hosts events that appeal to their social media followers. For example, to announce the latest Bo+Tee drop, the brand held a holiday party in Los Angeles for top social media fitness mavens. Guests were treated with content-creating workshops and were gifted products, which ensured post and tag engagement.

In recognizing the success of coordinating drops around social events, the brand held a festive style and beauty lounge in Palm Springs during Coachella for style influencers and media. As guests lounged poolside, listened to music, sipped cocktails and received festival-themed hair and make-up styling, they were also introduced to and gifted styles from the Oh Polly’s new spring collection, “Primavera,” and the latest Neena Swim collection, “El Mirador.” Made from premium Italian fabric, “El Mirador” has five main benefits for customers, including resistance to UV, sunscreen, oil, chlorine and abrasion. The fabric is also lightweight and offers lots of stretch.

In a full circle moment, the success of Oh Polly’s growth, popularity and journey has enabled Henderson and Branney to provide over £600k in donations to the foundation plus a further £150k to other worthwhile causes.

“The key [to success] is not to quit,”

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#

SHOW.COM

August AT

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SHOW

H O T E L

AUGUST 8-11, 2022 LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

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January 2022MAY 2022 57 FM|| FM 57

LA CHENILLE BRIDAL BIKINI MAKES A SPLASH AT NYFW BRIDAL 2022

58 58 ||FM FM MAY 2022April 2022

Photos courtesy of Ilya Savenok

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a Chenille Bridal Bikini, the luxury swimwear brand designed for brides desiring beautiful pieces to match the idyllic settings of their beach nuptials and ceremonies, made a splash in the market with their second collection, “A Romantic Dream,” which debuted during NYFW (New York Fashion Week) Bridal in a fashion show at the Elsie Rooftop in New York City.

Highlighted on the runway were one- and two-piece bathing suits in a variety of cuts and styles as well as embellished maxi dresses, capes, tulle skirts and accessories including swim caps, sun hats and headbands. La Chenille Bridal Bikini also featured their patented removable bridal train at the show.

The attachable/detachable bridal train can be worn with any of the La Chenille Bridal swimwear. The piece is available in long or short sizes, and the brand says the piece is symbolic of the brand’s core messages of strength, femininity and beauty. In attendance at the private runway event were fashion influencers, media, stylists and brand stakeholders.

Launched in November 2021 by Demi Raquel Thomas, La Chenille Bridal Bikini was founded with the mission to create beautiful, luxurious products that empower women of all shapes and sizes. Born from the French word “chenille” — which translates to “caterpillar” — the brand is designed for brides who are blooming and transitioning to the next chapter of their lives, said the brand.

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“I ultimately envisioned a collection that exudes the enlightened feeling which accompanies getting engaged and married,” Thomas said. Now, just five months after its debut, La Chenille Bridal Bikini’s second collection provides even more of an impact with the first of its kind ready-to-wear pieces, requiring no tailoring and no fittings, the brand said.

“A Romantic Dream:” What to Expect “The theme is a romantic dream because I want my customers to feel like they are wearing glamorous, elegant bridal wear, but without the typical constriction or discomfort,” said Thomas. “La Chenille brides have the comfort of stretchable fabric that will glide on their bodies, fitting perfectly and highlighting their beautiful shapes.”

Brand Ethos At La Chenille Bridal Bikini, there is an emphasis on creating a space and a product where women can feel beautiful and proud of who they are. Confidence is something Thomas believes every woman, no matter what shape and size, should feel. For example, the brand is inclusive in terms of fit: the polyester stretch material allows all women to share in the indulgence of wearing La Chenille Bridal.

“Being a proudly female- and minority-owned business, I am focused on making every bride feel beautiful on their special day,” Thomas added, highlighting the brand’s commitment to serving every bride.

The collection features whimsical designs with beautiful embellishments such as sequins and appliqués in feminine colors such as blush, white and various shades of pink. On the whole, La Chenille Bridal Bikini has the most impact with brides desiring destination weddings, said the brand. With more weddings and elopements taking place outdoors since the pandemic, the brand strives to be a go-to for brides wanting elegance and class at their beach or resort setting.

La Chenille Bridal’s team made craftsmanship one of their top priorities, the brand said.

With sustainable fabrics, La Chenille Bridal Bikini creates a product that helps brides to look elegant and glamorous — but also adds a layer to the senses with luxurious comfort and feel. Thomas, always keeping an eye out for the highest quality fabrics, sourced fabrics for La Chenille Bridal Bikini from all over the globe including India, Turkey and Europe, and put an emphasis on fabrics that are not only sustainable but also have wicking fibers that can withstand water, sand and moisture.

“Brides will want to get married in our cover ups,” Thomas said. “We picked sustainable fabrics of the highest quality to ensure that our customers feel elegant, glamorous and comfortable [on their wedding day].”

Garments are available for purchase online at lachenillebridalbikini.com, at trunk shows and wedding boutiques around the globe. Follow for brand updates: @lachenillebridalbikini and @iamdemiraquelthomas.

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Honoring The Prep for Prep Class of 2022 and Eric Rothfeld, CEO, REI Capital, LLC JUNE 14, 2022 New York Marriott Marquis Cocktails 6:30 PM Dinner 7:30 PM Details at prepforprep.org/lilacball

60 | FM MAY 2022

Prep for Prep develops future leaders by creating access for young people of color to top independent schools, leadership development opportunities, and internships and jobs at companies in a range of industries. To learn more, visit prepforprep.org.

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MAY 2022

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FEATURES - FINANCE

10 KPIS TO UNLOCK E-COMMERCE SUCCESS: GENERATE INSIGHTS TO GUIDE YOUR GROWTH

By Michael Sacco Photo courtesy of TrusTrace

FEATURES - FINANCE

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n the e-commerce industry, an inventory of great products is just the first step on the road to success. And with a Statista 2021 report suggesting that e-commerce will exceed $1 trillion annually by 2025 in the fashion category alone, your brand has every opportunity to reach a lucrative market online. Using the operational savvy and skills that you’ve developed through sourcing, fabrication, distribution and design efforts, you are well-equipped to create a data analytics program that will help you compete in a global marketplace. Build a program that highlights the following 10 key performance indicators (KPIs) and you’ll have the visibility to transform raw data into crucial insights.

Data Infrastructure Building a useful data analytics infrastructure doesn’t have to be time-consuming or expensive. Most commercially available e-commerce platforms ship with simple data analytics capabilities that offer insight into your online store’s key metrics right out of the box. Build a site from scratch, however, and you’ll need to take extra care. There are a variety of software programs designed to help to ensure that your data tracking and recording are accurate.

For the KPIs described below, it is essential to know how many visitors your site is attracting, where they are coming from and what actions they are taking as they navigate your store.

10 KPIs to Prioritize According to a McKinsey & Company report, “Retailers that overemphasize e-commerce revenues could actually be damaging their prospects. ... Since e-commerce is a significant contributor to growth for most retailers, they must not only have a strategy for how to generate more growth from this channel but also ensure that the strategy creates value for the organization.”

The following 10 KPIs should be top of mind anytime you’re making changes — whether that’s launching a new product, testing the efficacy of a campaign or tracking performance. Use basic tracking capabilities of your software or e-commerce platform and the formulas that follow to generate insights that will help you take your business to the next level.

2. Cost per order (CPO). To ensure that your total cost per order doesn’t negatively impact your profits on each sale, it’s essential to have an understanding of your non-advertising or non-marketing costs, such as shipping costs, fulfillment, operating expenses and other variable expenses as well as how these are allocated to an individual order basis.

7. Average Order Value (AOV). Your AOV measures the value of orders placed over a specified time period. Knowing your AOV can help you create levers that might increase revenues; minimums for free shipping, upsell opportunities, bundle deals, loyalty programs and time-limited promotions can all drive your average order value.

Measuring cost per order: Divide total costs by the number of orders in that time period.

Measure your average order value: Add up all of your orders and divide that value by the number of orders.

3. Net Profit. Turning a profit is the key to the continued growth and success of a company. Net profit is a useful barometer for the health of your business, allowing you to see at a glance what your e-commerce channel is making (or losing) overall.

Measuring net profit: Add your total earnings, then subtract cost of sales, operating expenses and interest.

4. Customer Acquisition Cost (CAC). Similar to your CPO, your CAC is the cost, in terms of marketing expenses, to acquire a new customer. This includes any sales or marketing-related expenses, including expenses associated with producing, placing and maintaining customer acquisition efforts. CAC may be most revealing when studied alongside your customer lifetime value (CLTV).

Measuring customer acquisition cost: Add total sales and marketing expenses, then divide that figure by total number of customers.

5. Customer Lifetime Value. Insights into CLTV, the total value of a customer to the business over the entire relatinship, help brands understand how likely a customer is to repeat their business. When analyzed alongside CAC, CLTV offers an idea of the total value of marketing, advertising and sales efforts that bring in new customers.

Measuring customer lifetime value: The total expenditure associated with a customer’s account over its lifetime is that account’s customer lifetime value. Encourage users to purchase from an account to ensure you’re capturing this data accurately.

1. Conversion Rate. A company’s conversion rate indicates how successful its strategies are in leading consumers to take particular actions on its website. Conversion rates track online sales, visitors that opt-in to marketing campaigns, click affiliate links, complete transactions and more.

6. Revenue Per Visitor (RPV). RPV offers insight into the value of the engagement your store earns. This metric can show which promotions bring customers or get a better sense for whether your promotional campaigns should prioritize a certain profile of shopper or simply reach as many consumers as possible.

Measuring conversation rate: Divide the total number of website visitors by the number who successfully completed a desired action.

Measuring revenue per visitor: Divide your total revenues by the total number of unique visitors to your store.

8. Shopping Cart Abandonment Rate. The shopping cart abandonment rate is the rate at which a potential customer backs out of an order. According to Shopify, the average rate of shopping cart abandonment is roughly 70%.

Analyze your process to make sure shipping times, additional costs, user experience and security aren’t turning customers away.

Measuring shopping cart abandonment rate: Calculate this metric as [1 – (the total number of completed transactions)/(number of all initiated sales)]*100.

9. Return Rate. Tracking your store’s return rate will give you crucial insight into any operational issues that may be occurring between the time your customers complete their transactions and receive their orders. Review your customer return process to ensure you’re asking for feedback on any issues that the customer encountered — here, numbers won’t be as revealing as your customer’s experience leading up to their decision to return a product.

Measuring units sold: You likely already have a return process that makes reporting the total number of returned orders easy to reference, so just make sure customers submit explanations for the return.

10. Product Performance KPIs. Tie product sales to revenue so that you know how well each of your products is moving. This visibility into can help you adjust your inventory so you can meet demand, rescope your product line and rethink the sales, advertising and marketing efforts that aren’t paying off.

Measuring product performance KPIs: There are many ways to gauge and measure product performance; what is most revealing for your purposes will depend on your industry, products, competitive landscape and other factors.

KPIs are just one set of the tools available for your e-commerce growth journey. If you have any questions about effective reporting processes or putting your analytics process into practice, contact a Friedman professional today or visit friedmanllp.com.

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THE FASHION MANNUSCRIPT PRESENTS:

TECHWEAR

TECHFEATURES

PACSUN

INNOVATING ON MULTIPLE PLATFORMS

By Debra Hazel

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Photo courtesy of Gary He

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TECHFEATURES

I

s it brick-and-mortar retailer? A gamer?

Or a metaverse pioneer? At Pacsun, it’s all about innovation, said its president, Brie Olson, at the recent Shoptalk conference in Las Vegas.

“The core of our brand, the heart of our brand is innovation,” Olson said, noting that Artistic Director A$AP Rocky scanned in his own body to create his own non-fungible token (NFT). “Brands need to think seriously about how, when and why to create a metaverse strategy.”

This emphasis on digital innovation is largely because Pacsun’s shoppers are teens and young adults who are very comfortable in both a virtual universe as well as shopping at their local malls.

The apparel company was an early adopter of cryptocurrency and closely examined how its audience was entering the metaverse — largely, it determined, through gaming. In June 2021, Pacsun opted to partner with Roblox, a global gaming platform to launch a digital catalog.

“We wanted to meet the consumer where they’re already socializing and Roblox arguably is the best platform for socialization,” she said. “It’s another piece for Pacsun looking for opportunities to decentralize. The audience gets to build alongside the brand. We were building emotional bonds with the consumer.”

The line consisted of seasonal items — some of which were available in the company’s brick-andmortar stores, too — as well as flat-out fantasy items for players’ avatars, including gold wings (a top seller, according to Olson).

In January, Pacsun’s presence in the metaverse expanded further as the retailer started to roll

out a series of unique NFTs called Pac Mall Rats.

Pacsun initially unveiled a limited series of three Pac Mall Rats, representing Los Angeles Pacsun retail locations in Santa Monica, Brea and Downtown Los Angeles. Three hundred unique Pac Mall Rats will eventually be released to correspond with all of Pacsun’s mall and stand-alone retail locations. Each Pac Mall Rat character is carefully designed by Pacsun’s in-house team and created as a full body look to allow Pacsun to showcase accessories, footwear, tops and bottoms in comprehensive looks that enables the brand to highlight styles from current campaigns and product initiatives.

The development of Pac Mall Rats came on the heels of the brand’s first-ever NFT, which debuted in November 2021 and was designed around its wave logo. The Pacsun Wave NFT sold above the asking price, and 100% of proceeds were donated to the Fashion Scholarship Fund, a education and workforce development nonprofit that aids the fashion industry within the United States.

In addition to the NFT, purchasers of the Pac Mall Rats series also received a commemorative physical T-shirt with their Mall Rat on it. The second drop of Pac Mall Rats debuted in March, representing 14 different Pacsun locations, as well as Reebok, Pacsun’s first Pac Mall Rat based on a brand partner. And unlike many apparel brands, Pacsun welcomes a copycat.

“Product emulation (or the copycat) is something we look upon quite positively,” Olson said. “Virgil Abloh shared valuable advice early on about what it means for a brand to be copied. It shows the power and energy behind the brand. It should be seen as positive when the community itself is accelerating brand growth as the consumer is

building alongside us. In fact, some of the emulation is stronger than what we put out in the first place.”

The metaverse even extends to how Pacsun is running the company, Olson continued. “We have cross-functional meetings in the metaverse monthly and our training all of our leaders in our creative spaces,” she said. “We’re encouraging our team leaders to download Roblox, to participate in the metaverse.”

The company’s presence is now even greater; just days after her presentation, Pacsun launched Pacworld, a fantasy interactive mall experience on Roblox through a partnership with game development studio Melon.

Pacworld allows players to create a unique hub that intersects fashion technology and community. Players are the owner and operators of a new mall, and it is their objective to make the mall as profitable and popular as possible. The starting point is a sunny beach island reminiscent of Pacsun’s Southern California home base, where players can choose a plot for their personalized mall that they can build their stores onto. Players will be able to create and remove shops, upgrade the shops that do well, decorate the mall to try to attract more customers, and even invite their friends to visit their mall.

In time, Pacsun also may acquire digital “land” for its own virtual malls. After all, anything is possible in the metaverse.

“It’s incredibly exciting,” Olson shared with the audience at Shoptalk. “It means creating connection points, allowing community [and] building alongside the consumer.”

Photo courtesy of PRNewswire

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TECHFEATURES

TECHFEATURES

HOW PRE-LOVED FASHION CAN HELP THE ENVIRONMENT (AND YOUR WALLET) Photos courtesy of Vinted

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he fashion industry is constantly reinventing itself, partially by looking to its past; with the growing popularity of responsible consumption and pre-loved clothing, what’s old is now new. Generations to come will inherit what is already making itself known: that consumerism has consequences on our environment.

Today, there is more discussion about a scarcity of resources, and the circular economy has taken up the cause of repurposing and reusing.

Companies trading in the secondhand market are extending the life of what gorgeous and vintage pieces the fashion industry has produced.

Online and mobile app platforms such as Vinted make it easy to re-sell and buy pre-loved clothing and fashion pieces. They are dedicated to promote and encourage this mindful approach, and make second hand and circular solutions a part of our everyday life, said the company.

New clothing used to be the most wanted for every season and special occasion — but Vinted says that it doesn’t have to be this way. For Vinted, second-hand’s part in the circular economy model is one aspect of the response to the challenges faced by the fashion industry in terms of impact on the climate, even if it’s not the whole or only solution. Re-using clothing can help reduce the impact. According to WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production), an extra nine months of actively using an article of clothing can reduce the fashion industry’s footprints of carbon, waste and water by approximately 20% to 30%.

Vinted is already a front-runner and leader in

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Europe, serving sellers and buyers of pre-loved fashions and home décor, the company said.

Also, in the U.S., users can conveniently trade their pre-loved clothes and accessories with one another, providing fashionistas a solution to be cash-conscious and responsible consumers.

In the case of Vinted, members can upload their pre-loved fashion items, establish the price they want for them and keep what they earn from the sale, with zero selling fees. The most updated version of the app also introduces a new category, home décor items, as well as the “Bump” feature, which gives sellers the option for a small fee to temporarily increase the visibility of their items and get a chance to sell them faster. Buyers can also save some cash, getting access to a large variety of fashion and brands at low prices. Shoppers on the app are discovering great deals, from tech-wear to the best seasonal secondhand fashions, Vinted said.

And it turns out that pre- and post-consumer textiles can be an extremely valuable commodity. This trend is equally strong for women, and increasing for men and children, creating an opportunity for making money on gently and, in many cases, never used pieces.

The broader acceptance of secondhand clothes — and not only vintage, but also pre-loved contemporary garments — is visible, and more fashion brands and platforms are dedicated to extending the life of clothing through reselling and trading. In 2019, the World Economic Forum found that pre-loved fashion market had expanded 21 times faster than that of conventional apparel commerce. Market research conducted

in September 2021 on behalf of Vinted in collaboration with Dynata also found that almost half (49%) of U.S. women aged 18 to 45 years old say that they sell their pre-loved clothes to earn extra money, while a similar proportion of the group (50%) say they can save money and spend less on clothing by buying second hand.

However, this does not reflect any compromises on fashion. A third (34%) of those same consumers believe they can fi nd unique items in a second-hand shopping experience.

Through online secondhand fashion platforms, people who love and appreciate clothing can conveniently save and earn money by trading gently, pre-loved fashion and lifestyle items. In the case of Vinted, 50 million people across 15 markets have found a way to help the environment, save money and fi nd (to them) new and unique pieces — fashionistas are grabbing the perfect leather jackets or shoes they had only dreamed of or the perfect little black dress that may never have been worn because it was in the back of someone’s walk-in closet.

For Vinted, the pre-loved trend also has a double effect: while some fi rst-hand clothing may still always be needed, the emergence of new consumption habits should give clothing more value in the longer-term: people may buy better quality and sustainable items in the fi rst place, so they know they can potentially resell them at a later stage and keep them in circulation longer.

American consumers now have the chance to make secondhand their fi rst choice. The next generations will thank them for it — and so will their pocketbooks.

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Photos courtesy of Wrangler mannpublications.com

TECHFEATURES

WRANGLER RELEASES CURATED COLLECTION OF VINTAGE AND PRELOVED DENIM EXCLUSIVELY ONLINE

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lobal denim brand Wrangler announced the release of Wrangler Reborn, a curated collection of vintage and preloved denim from as early as the 1950s to the 2000s. Including both styles that are in mint condition as well as those that boast the highly sought-after, broken-in threads, the collection’s launch is timed with the brand’s 75th anniversary and prolongs the life of its durable, distinctive denim. Wrangler Reborn celebrates the original, iconic and revered styles that shaped the brand and remain top-sellers as Western-inspired fashion, global casualization and “work-leisure” wardrobes and resale trends continue to steadily increase among younger audiences, said Wrangler.

With a rich legacy rooted in the Western lifestyle, Wrangler offers quality and timeless design in its collections for men, women and children. Wrangler has helped to define style and lifestyle trends for decades, and the Wrangler Reborn Collection spotlights the resilience of Wrangler denim and the brand’s commitment to crafting quality pieces that can be passed down from generation to generation, said the brand.

The most-featured fits in Wrangler Reborn were originally built for durability and longevity for the cowboys of the American West, then adopted globally in the 1960s, making the styles credible and valued today around the world.

“Curating the pieces in this collection as we celebrate Wrangler’s 75th anniversary really transported us back in time to key moments in our history, while also bringing into clear focus the cultural significance of authentic, durable, quality denim of past, present and future,” said Vivian Rivetti, vice president of global design, Wrangler. “Wrangler jeans are timeless and loved across generations, and this collection appeals to denim heads, longtime Wrangler fans and young vintage-lovers alike, representing the importance of our heritage and proving that this collection is truly one for the ages.”

The Wrangler Reborn collection includes vintage denim styles from the brand’s archives, including the brand’s best-selling jean styles, the 13MWZ Cowboy Cut jean and Cowboy Cut 0936. A tried-and-true wardrobe staple originally made by cowboys for cowboys, the 13MWZ (Men’s Western Zipper) Cowboy Cut has earned icon status, known for its durability, quality and authenticity, Wrangler said. An innovation since its creation, this style includes a deeper watch pocket for convenience, flat rivets to avoid scratching and two additional belt loops to make sure belts are secure.

The Cowboy Cut 0936 features a slim-fitting silhouette for today’s modern cowboy. The tried-and-true wardrobe staple for cowboys who demand a lot from their everyday clothes, this style comes with the same iconic details of the 13MWZ Cowboy Cut with a modern twist that features a slim silhouette through the seat, thigh and knee. With the revival of Western styles in mainstream fashion, the Wrangler Reborn collection allows younger consumers to own a piece of authentic western fashion with a rich story that reflects

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western history and stands the test of time that is reborn with a new story for generations to come.

Launched online during Earth Month, the Wrangler Reborn collection is a part of the brand’s WeCare Wrangler sustainability mission, contributing to circularity within the fashion industry by taking older denim pieces, some of which might otherwise end up in a landfill, and enabling them to be re-sold.

The greatest form of sustainability is longevity, and this collection is a testament to the durability of Wrangler denim, said the brand, as some of the items in the collection have been around for more than six decades and still stand strong today. To further show its commitment to sustainability, Wrangler also introduced an Earth Jean during April, which celebrated the planet and the brand’s drive to creating a more sustainable future.

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FASHION 411

TECHNOLOGY

CHICO’S FAS ADVANCES DIGITAL-FIRST CAPABILITIES WITH NEW MOBILE SHOPPING APPS FOR ITS BRANDS and sales through deeper customer engagement and inspirational customer experiences offering more ways to meet customers’ needs, the brand said.

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omen’s retailer Chico’s FAS Inc. announced new mobile shopping apps across all three of the company’s brands — Chico’s, White House Black Market (WHBM) and Soma — to unify customers’ omnichannel shopping.

The mobile apps, launched earlier this year, serve as each brand’s newest digital commerce channel and were developed to power loyalty

The iOS apps have been downloaded over 75,000 times and have a 4.9-star rating in the App Store.

The apps offer engaging content such as “App Stories” content carousels, as well as marketing and promotional capabilities. The apps integrate with the company’s existing merchandising and loyalty system and offer barcode scanning and store finder functionality to encourage customers to visit the company’s 1,000-plus boutiques. The technology was created with

Poq, a developer of customized shopping apps.

“Launching these new mobile apps is another step forward in our work to leverage premier digital capabilities to drive loyalty and sales conversion,” said Stacey Blicker, vice president, digital commerce for Chico’s. “These apps create an additional selling channel for customers to fall in love with our brands by providing a unique brand experience, another way to enjoy social commerce and a more personalized browsing and buying experience.”

Helen Slaven, chief revenue officer of Poq, commented, “Chico’s FAS is widely respected as a premier women’s specialty retailer with a portfolio of differentiated brands. We are excited to partner with the company in developing a customer-centric app strategy that showcases the compelling fashions of Chico’s, WHBM and Soma, and sparks customer enthusiasm for these brands.”

AKU LAUNCHES “AKUTARS” WITH FASHION AND STREETWEAR COLLABORATORS across multiple generations, said the company.

Each collaborator will create handcrafted one-of-one Akutar designs; particular elements from those designs will also appear on other Akutars. The highly covetable and firstof-its-kind collection of Akutars celebrates the pioneers of luxury fashion and streetwear culture alongside the next generation of creators, and appeals to a wide-ranging audience

Summer Watson, president of WYE Media Company, the home of Aku, said, “I am extremely proud of the collaborators we’ve brought on board to launch Akutars in a way that no one has done before. Our team and extended family of creators and visionaries is possibly one of the most diverse in the game, and that’s no accident — diversity is

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Akutars will also grant holders entry into the Akuverse, where lines are blurred between the digital and physical worlds, said the company. Akutar owners will gain exclusive access to culture-defining experiences, products and collaborations.

“Akutars are the next step in Aku’s journey and evolving Akuverse,” said Johnson. “Akutars will give our community, creators and collectors the opportunity to further express themselves creatively alongside iconic, culture-defining brands.”

Photo courtesy of Aku

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ku, the cryptonative NFT (non-fungible token) character created by artist Micah Johnson, announced the launch of Akutars, a collection of 15,000 unique 3D avatars launching on the Ethereum blockchain.

The collection was created with fashion and streetwear collaborators including Billionaire Boys Club, the clothing, accessories and lifestyle brand founded by Pharrell Williams and Nigo in 2003; Icecream, the global skateboard lifestyle apparel and accessories brand, also founded by Williams; Paper Planes, Roc Nation’s apparel brand and streetwear label combining street fashion, music and design; Puma, a global sports brand designing, developing, selling and marketing footwear, apparel and accessories; Upscale Vandel, by the luxury fashion and streetwear creative Michael Camargo and Who Decides War, a NYC-based contemporary luxury label.

easy when you start with Black founders doing things our way and supported by a community as incredible as ours. Together we are building a community and movement bigger than any box someone might assume we are working in — we are real people working together to make art that tells meaningful stories and drives conversation in the crypto space and way beyond.”

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FASHION 411

TECHNOLOGY

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DAPPER DAN LAUNCHES FIRST NFT COLLECTION WITH GAP

ap has announced the global launch of the next iteration of its foray into the metaverse, a limited-edition collection of non-fungible tokens (NFTs) designed in collaboration with fashion innovator and style influencer Dapper Dan. The launch will build on the gamification of its first NFT launch, allowing customers to build their NFT collections with several drops at various levels and price points.

“As some have dubbed me ‘the godfather of hip-hop fashion,’ it was amazing when an iconic American brand like Gap and I got together to create something that would take our culture even further,” said Dapper Dan. “NFTs are a huge part of what’s shaping culture right now.

From analog to the metaverse — I am excited for the opportunity to explore this space with Gap and bring the newly hyped DAP GAP Hoodie to a whole new audience.”

“Gap celebrates individuality and what it

means to be your true self, and Dapper Dan embodies just that — an icon breaking the mold, forging newfound personal freedoms and furthering progressive change,” said Chris Goble, chief product officer at Gap. “We are honored to be the first brand Dapper Dan partners with in the metaverse. He is a legendary creator. He’s never done what was expected and this is no exception; like Gap he is always pushing the limits of his creativity and individuality.”

The NFT experience featured a digital auction of single-edition digital art designed by Dapper Dan and a special-edition physical DAP GAP varsity jacket. Following the auction, the experience included three gamified level drops: Com-

Photo courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

mon, Rare and Epic. The gamified experience encourages customers to collect iconic Gap hoodie digital art at the Common and Rare levels to unlock the opportunity to purchase the Epic, a limited edition digital art designed

by Dapper Dan and a special-edition physical DAP GAP Epic “Harlem Tailor” hoodie.

SSR’S “EMPATHY APPLIED METHODOLOGY” FUELS BRAND STRATEGY FOR DEEPER CONNECTIONS WITH TARGET AUDIENCES

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SR (Syndicate Sub Rosa), a global brand strategy agency, announced a record-breaking year of growth, industry changing product innovations and a history of working with brands including Forever 21, Google, Nike and more.

SSR delivers brand strategy, design, activation and organizational cultural transformation solutions via their trademarked “Empathy Applied Methodology,” which puts empathy at the heart of everything they do, said the agency. By uncovering human behaviors and insights, the agency is able to define the opportunities and gaps that shape the design process and thinking behind every engagement.

Developed by SSR, Buzz Community enables

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brands to quickly and cost-effectively build a mobile-first online community for their audiences, employees and partners. Brands can build their Buzz Communities to reflect their own look and feel; there is a range of functions available in a Buzz Community, from member chat, surveys, a shop, rewards, loyalty programs and more.

SSR also announced the addition of noteworthy senior executives including Chris Penny, managing director; Camille Ross, head of production

and Patrick Robertson, strategy director. The new leadership team has been instrumental in helping brands to put an empathetic approach at the heart of each brand’s strategy and marketing plans to build deeper connections with target audiences that drive greater sales, loyalty and advocacy, said the agency.

“New cultural trends emerge every day and brands can gain or lose favor in the blink of an eye,” said Penny. “We spend an extended amount of time and energy with our brands helping them to discover deep insights into the thoughts, desires and actions of their consumers.

These truths enable us to deliver award-winning brand strategy, creative and activation solutions that deliver a superior competitive advantage.”

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FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT: John P. Giordano, CPA, Partner Manufacturing & Distribution Practice Co-Leader

jgiordano@citrincooperman.com 631.930.5000 x6351

Citrin Cooperman is a leading accounting and advisory providers for manufacturing and distribution companies. Over time, the firm has developed a focus on fashion and apparel companies, providing assurance, tax, and advisory to both start-ups and well-established brands. Citrin Cooperman has a keen understanding of the industry and remains upto-date on market trends and changes that impact fashion and apparel companies, and translates this knowledge into industry-specific business solutions that help clients accomplish business goals and remain competitive in the market.

COLUMNS

WHY THE SUPREME COURT’S LATEST COPYRIGHT DECISION MATTERS TO FASHION RETAILERS

By Howard D. Bader

made some of the 31 designs available for sale exclusively to certain customers, while offering the rest to the general public.

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opyright infringement lawsuits involving textile designs have become a growing problem for fashion brands and retailers.

One such case, “Unicolors Inc. v. H&M Hennes & Mauritz LP,” recently made it all the way to the U.S. Supreme Court.

Unfortunately, the Court’s decision is unlikely to stem the flood of lawsuits. The Court ruled against fast-fashion retailer H&M Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), rejecting its argument that Unicolors, Inc., a wholesale fabric design company, should be barred from pursuing a copyright infringement action because it included inaccurate information in its application. According to the Court, unintended legal errors do not void a copyright registration.

Copyright Infringement Suit Over Textile Designs Unicolors, which owns copyrights in various fabric designs, filed a copyright infringement action against H&M. After a jury found in favor of Unicolors, H&M sought judgment as a matter of law. The fashion retailer argued that Unicolors could not sue for infringement because Unicolors knowingly included inaccurate information on its registration application, rendering its copyright registration invalid. A valid copyright registration is a prerequisite when seeking to bring a civil action for infringement of a copyrighted work.

The alleged inaccuracy stemmed from Unicolors having filed a single application seeking registration for 31 separate works, despite a copyright office regulation that provides that a single application may cover multiple works only if they were “included in the same unit of publication.”

H&M maintained that Unicolors failed to satisfy this requirement because Unicolors had initially

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The District Court determined that because Unicolors did not know when it filed its application that it had failed to satisfy the “single unit of publication” requirement, the company’s copyright registration remained valid by operation of the safe harbor provision provided under 17 U.S.C. § 411(b).

It provides that a certificate of registration is valid “regardless of whether the certificate contains any inaccurate information, unless — (A), the inaccurate information was included on the application for copyright registration with knowledge that it was inaccurate and (B), the inaccuracy of the information, if known, would have caused the Register of Copyrights to refuse registration.”

On appeal, the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals determined that it did not matter whether Unicolors was aware that it had failed to satisfy the single unit of publication requirement, because the safe harbor excuses only good-faith mistakes of fact, not law. Unicolors had known the relevant facts, so its knowledge of the law (or lack thereof) was irrelevant, according to the federal appeals court.

Supreme Court Rules Legal Mistake Does Not Void Copyright Registration The Supreme Court reversed, holding that §411(b) excuses inaccuracies that were the result of an innocent mistake of fact or law. “In our view, however, §411(b) does not distinguish between a mistake of law and a mistake of fact. Lack of knowledge of either fact or law can excuse an inaccuracy in a copyright registration,” Justice Stephen Breyer wrote on behalf of the 6-3 majority.

According to the Court, nothing in §411(b)(1)(A) suggests that the safe harbor applies differently because an applicant made a mistake of law as opposed to a mistake of fact. In support, it cited nearby statutory provisions that confirm that “knowledge” refers to knowledge of the law as well as the facts.

“Inaccurate information in a registration is therefore equally (or more) likely to arise from a mistake of

law as a mistake of fact. That is especially true because applicants include novelists, poets, painters, designers and others without legal training,” Justice Breyer wrote. “Nothing in the statutory language suggests that Congress wanted to forgive those applicants’ factual but not their (often esoteric) legal mistakes.”

The Court also cited legislative history indicating that Congress enacted §411(b) to make it easier, not more difficult, for non-lawyers to obtain valid copyright registrations. “Given this history, it would make no sense if §411(b) left copyright registrations exposed to invalidation based on applicants’ good-faith misunderstandings of the details of copyright law,” Breyer wrote.

Key Takeaway for Fashion Retailers While fabric mills are within their rights to protect their designs, the current legal framework makes it challenging for fashion companies to ensure that they won’t later face allegations of copyright infringement. One of the primary challenges is that there is no central database that can track the vast number of fabric designs and the ownership rights attached to them. Suppliers may also provide inaccurate information about whether they created or licensed a particular fabric. Given the potential legal risks, it is essential that fashion companies work with experienced legal counsel who can help navigate the complex legal landscape surrounding textile copyrights.

Howard D. Bader is a NYC attorney who serves as general counsel for clients in a wide range of industries on an international scale. With over three decades’ worth of legal experience, he has represented clients in numerous legal matters, including commercial litigation, intellectual property, bankruptcy and creditor’s rights and mergers and acquisitions, as well as numerous corporate transactions and business law matters.

Howard D. Bader hbader@sh-law.comb (212) 784-6926 www.sh-law.com

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COLUMNS

BUSINESS INTERRUPTED: MITIGATING SUPPLY CHAIN RISK & MAINTAINING RESILIENCY IN 2022

By Frank DeLucia

and likely associated supply chain threats, such as labor shortages, manufacturing uncertainty and inflation, continue to jeopardize business continuity for textile and apparel businesses. It has never been more urgent to manage supply-chain risk resiliency by mapping your supply chain, assessing suppliers, creating a model of scenarios and sourcing the proper insurance coverage.

G

lobal supply chains have been pushed to the brink with disruption greatly impacting the global apparel and textile sector.

In general, the term “supply chain” refers to the entire network of companies that work together to design, produce, deliver and service products, consisting of any activities associated with the flow and transformation of goods from raw materials to end users. Industries whose operations are more globalized were most exposed to initial supply chain disruption due to the pandemic and to supply chain business interruption in general.

From retailers to manufacturers, apparel supply chains span across the globe, with dependability, cost efficiency and speed as critical components for operations. Global supply chains have been tested more in the last few years than many organizations have experienced throughout their entire existence.

Ongoing supply chain challenges could cost North American apparel and footwear brands between $9 billion and $17 billion in lost EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization) in 2022, according to a recent report by Kearney. The report also shows that only 12% of organizations in the sector are “leaders” in resilience, meaning they have design, distribution, financial agility and other qualities that can help weather supply chain disruption.

While the pandemic has caused and continues to present all sorts of logistical problems, additional

82 | FM MAY 2022

Essential Steps to Create a Business Continuity Plan •Conduct a thorough risk assessment to identify critical processes and functions that would be impacted during a business disruption.

• Identify compliance requirements.

• Align business travel to align with governmentmandated travel restrictions.

• Review supplier service level agreements for consequences for not abiding by contracts.

• Review supplier business continuity plans to determine whether or not they align with your businesses’ expectations.

• Define the capabilities of the upstream supply chain to determine their capability to provide for your business during a disruption.

• Consider increasing inventory to extend operations if the upstream supplier is not capable of delivering needed goods.

• Define the capabilities of the downstream supply chain to impact to your customers if operations are no longer feasible at their normal capacity.

• Communicate business decisions to the appropriate audiences.

• Train response team members on responsibilities during a disruption.

• Test the business continuity plan by conducting tabletop exercises.

While appropriate planning can help minimize the impact of a supply chain interruption on your bottom line, unforeseen events can still break the link in one major component of your supply chain.

When manufacturing operations stop, so does

your income. If an interruption occurs, you should be able to rely on insurance protection to absorb some of the financial losses.

Transferring the Burden Through Proper Insurance Coverage When the business interruption is the result of a natural disaster, key personnel loss, structural collapse, power interruption or machinery breakdown directly related to the business, business interruption coverage (BI) will bridge the income gap caused by the disaster, finance a temporary relocation for the business and more.

However, when your business is interrupted as a result of an unforeseeable supply chain failure that prevents your organization from producing its products or delivering its services, contingent business interruption coverage (CBI) will bridge the gap of income for your business and help you get on your feet again. CBI is an important extension to your business interruption insurance to help minimize the financial loss of a supply chain disruption. When your operations rely on others coming through, you can rest assured knowing you’ve planned for events outside of your control.

Don’t become one of the businesses that falls victim to a supply chain loss this year. Your insurance advisor should be able to conduct a full supply chain assessment on your business and determine the best insurance coverage options to defend your company from supply chain risks and the associated financial implications of a potential business interruption.

Frank DeLucia currently serves as senior vice president of Hub International Northeast, a leading full-service global insurance brokerage. He can be reached by phone at (212)338-2395 or at frank.delucia@hubinternational.com. For more information on Hub, visit hubinternational.com.

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WHAT IS THE DEEPER MEANING OF BEAUTY?

By Leslie Gallin, former president of footwear, Informa Markets, Magic & Coterie

for the acquisition of talent by the merging of companies.

T

his question is one of the most basic, albeit, meaningful ones that humanity has asked from the beginning of time, one that has inspired the greatest artists, sculptors, poets, writers, playwrights and romantics the world over.

Beauty is happiness. It’s the images and moments that inspire and represent the most distinct and remarkable attractiveness of our souls. It’s the moments we feel free and real. It’s the moments we feel proud and eminent. It’s the moments we feel alive. It seems like that element should be inherent, but it isn’t (or so says Google).

I choose to subscribe to this definition of beauty rather than all of the definitions which relate beauty to women! Beauty is internal, not just external. Beauty is when people help their fellow man. Beauty is color, seasonal changes, sights, sounds and experiences. In our world of fashion, we are surrounded by the beauty of creations by craftspeople from raw materials to works of art and beauty and sold through with minimal markdowns.

Beauty is being able to re-imagine and re-invent oneself or one’s business. Two years ago, many found themselves in a less than beautiful place in regards to their businesses. Previous models and strategic plans which had applied to the world pre-pandemic no longer seemed cutting edge or sustainable for the new direction of technology and consumer behavior.

Mergers and acquisitions became a beautiful pathway for creating and/or bolstering one’s business. The search was on to find a company or product which could enhance, complement and position your company or brand for the new trends and new consumers; there was beauty in integrating a startup product or obtaining an infusion of capital for advancements, allowing

84 | FM MAY 2022

As the world comes back to in-person events, the glaring successes in our business world are the relationships we have forged over many years, which have been built upon credibility, honesty and friendship. Networking still thrives, which is proof that one’s reputation and, yes, beauty, has helped many people succeed in the past two years; people want to do business with those that they like and trust.

The Beauty World Today What seemed to last forever was the staying power of the household names and heritage brands in the beauty sector, who overtime elevated their marketing, packaging and elegance of their products to position them as aspirational. What a shock it must have been to these companies to watch startups with minimal packaging and limited ingredients rise in popular culture. For example, social media has singlehandedly breathed new life into new and holistic brands which, in many cases, are at a lower price point than those heritage brands.

Much of the mergers and acquisitions (M&A) action in the last few years has been led by U.S. and European conglomerates, such as Estée Lauder and L’Oréal, hoping to bring innovative startups in-house. Brands can either spend $10 million to maybe screw up or spend $20 million to buy something that has an established proof of concept.

bought buzzy U.S. skincare brand Drunk Elephant for $845 million, instantly boosting relevance for the struggling heritage company.

Could the fueling of competition among brands end up depleting the value of major beauty companies in the long run? Probably not. We have all seen the development of big marque brands (or perhaps what has been considered to be a big marque brand in the past) which are no longer quite as marque as they once were.

We seem to survive and adapt when our favorite shade of a product has been discontinued at brick and mortar — these instances are pushing consumers to the internet to buy the specific items, and are also introducing customers to new and bold replacements.

Innovation is what companies strive for, and consumers — who are hungry for the fresh and new — will determine if a brand’s product will be embraced. Having longevity and familiarity with brands brings comfort and may even transport buyers to fond memories involving these brands.

At the end of the day, beauty has a way of bringing you back and making one smile.

So for now, I may not be using my La Mer cream, but Rodial has a new, loyal customer.

Beauty’s busy year of mergers and acquisitions culminated when Kylie Jenner sold 50% of her Kylie Cosmetics empire to Coty for $600 million.

The same day, Estée Lauder Companies acquired full control of Have & Be Co., the Seoul-based skincare company behind Dr. Jart+ and men’s grooming brand Do The Right Thing.

As president of footwear for Informa Markets, Leslie Gallin developed the FN Platform, the footwear shows at Magic. Gallin scouts the world’s best new designers and trends, providing unparalleled business insights and access into the world of footwear and beyond. Gallin is a board member of Footwear Distributors/Representatives of America, American Apparel and Footwear Associate, Two Ten-Footwear Charity and From Fashion with Love.org, among others, and has held positions at World Shoe Association, Geoffrey Benne, Escada, Louis Feraud and Pauline Tigere. She has been featured in Footwear Plus, Footwear News, O The Oprah Magazine, Vegas, Fox’s Good Day LA, Extra TV and more. missfashion@cs.com

Sustainability is no longer a trend. It’s a fact of life and a spiritual concern of the young consumer. For example, Japanese beauty juggernaut Shiseido

Leslie Gallin LKG Consulting missfashion@cs.com

Today, it’s chic to say one uses “xyz cream,” which is considerate of sustainability, has no animal testing and uses pure ingredients at a comparable or lower price to more high-end brands. These brands are putting a new spin on defining quality and luxury.

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The information contained herein has been obtained from sources believed reliable. While we do not doubt its accuracy, we make no guarantee, warranty or representation about it. The prospective tenant should carefully verify each item, and all other information herein.

COLUMNS

DEB’S RETAIL DISH AND DEALS: TOGETHER AGAIN

By Debra Hazel, president of Debra Hazel Communications foot retail lease for the ground floor at 875 Washington St. in New York City’s Meatpacking District. The new Breitling Boutiques outpost, on the corner unit at 14th and Washington Streets, includes 1,738 square feet of ground floor space and 2,069 square feet of lower-level space.

A

s we all prepare to return to the first fullblown ICSC Las Vegas conference in three years (look for me there!), the news is looking good. National names are opening flagships, international brands are making major commitments to New York City streets and fitness facilities are on the comeback. It looks to be a positive vibe at the Las Vegas Convention Center!

All About Apparel Sustainable apparel and footwear store Allbirds officially opened its U.S. flagship store at 120 Fifth Ave. At 8,000 square feet, the store is the chain’s largest unit to date.

Stella Dallas NYC, a vintage fashion shop selling vintage jackets, shirts, jeans, shoes, bags and more, has extended its 4,500-square-foot lease at 285 North Sixth St. in Williamsburg, Brooklyn for an additional five years. Stella Dallas NYC comprises two stores in one: 10 Ft. Single by Stella Dallas and Stella Dallas Living. Down the street, Canadian apparel company Frank and Oak will make its Brooklyn debut shortly at 106.

Vuori will bring its activewear from California to the East Coast at 106 Spring St. Look for vintage finds at the recently opened Thrift NYC at 305 East 84th St. Adorn Yourself Leasing and advisory firm Retail by Mona announced that the Swiss luxury watch maker Breitling has signed a long-term, 3,807-square-

86 | FM MAY 2022

Swarovski is taking a two-level flagship space at 680 Fifth Ave. Peak Design, which offers carry solutions for creatives, commuters and adventurers, has signed a lease for its first dedicated East Coast retail store at 241 Lafayette St. in Nolita.

The 3,550-square-foot space (2,050 square feet on the ground with an additional 1,500 square feet in the basement) is slated to open in the third quarter of this year.

Food, Glorious Food Samanea New York, the new retail, entertainment and dining destination located at 1500 Old Country Rd. in Westbury, New York welcomed 99 Ranch Market on April 9. An Asian grocery store chain based in Buena Park, California, 99 Ranch has 56 stores across the U.S., with the Westbury location its first on Long Island and in New York State. The 45,602-square-foot space includes over 10,000 unique items from around the world, including unique Asian dry groceries, produce, premium meats and poultry, seafood, deli items and baked goods.

The owners of the H&H Bagels on West 85th Street have relaunched the eatery with a redesign that it says will serve as a flagship for possible national franchise expansion.

Home Sweet Home Patio/outdoor furniture and accessories retailer Fortunoff Backyard Store is continuing its regional expansion with a new location at Somerset Shopping Center in Bridgewater, New Jersey.

Venus Over Manhattan will open its second art gallery in the city at 55 Great Jones St. Blu Dot, which designs and sells furniture, will open

a three-level store (and a rooftop showroom) at 715 Lexington Ave. The company already has a location at 79 Madison Ave. Wining and Dining Look for a luxury Italian steakhouse from Maribella Hospitality Group to land in the former New York Yankees Steakhouse space at 7 West 51st St. 29Market Inc., the restaurant group that owns the Two Bros Pizza chain, has signed a 10-year lease for an approximately 1,700-square-foot restaurant space, with a 1,200-square-foot, below-grade working and storage area, at 45 West 46th St. The new space is being completely rebuilt with a new kitchen. When completed, the restaurant will feature fast casual American cuisine. Want Mediterranean instead? Mezeh is opening its second location in the city at 230 Park Ave. Bar Veloce continues to expand, with a plan to occupy 245 Bowery.

To Your Health Orangetheory Fitness has opened a two-story flagship studio at 715 Lexington Ave. (Manhattan Plaza). The space is about twice the size of a typical facility, and features a street-level store selling co-branded apparel. Trinity Boxing Club is creating a flagship location at 20 Vesey St. Dream a Little Dream Or maybe not so little. At press time, the American Dream retail/entertainment complex was to launch its “Dream Wheel,” a 300-foot-tall Ferris wheel on April 13. The ride, reminiscent of the London Eye, features 27 glass-enclosed gondolas, allowing year-round operation, that complete a rotation in 30 minutes and hold up to 16 people each.

Debra Hazel Debra Hazel Communications North Las Vegas, NV (201)618-5247

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COLUMNS

LEADERS — REMOVE ROADBLOCKS TO FORWARD MOVEMENT

By Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA, PCC

Change Proficiencies “Be Present” and “Stand on Truths” can play a key role by providing techniques to ease the transition.

W

hen faced with a change, leaders frequently must address critical concerns that may require a wide range of adjustments with their teams, customers, vendors and other stakeholders. The loss of a valuable employee, new customer expectations or vendors crippled by their supply chain can impact deadlines. Our confidence may begin to erode, and inner turmoil could begin to impair vital communication and decisions.

While we may not have had control over what changed, we can eliminate behaviors that interfere with desired outcomes. In this article, I will pair the second stage of change, Accept, with the Change Proficiencies “Be Present” and “Stand on Truths,” to help you communicate and make decisions more effectively during transitions.

Accept (Second Stage of Change) In the Accept stage, you acknowledge that what has transpired cannot be changed and, in some cases, might be irreversible. Perhaps your teams’ size has shrunk, resources are limited or the adoption of new procedures creates additional burdens. During this stage, you need to make a conscious choice to accept that the old circumstances no longer exist. However, it is not necessary to think about all of the potential ramifications. As time passes, your willingness and ability to make change-related decisions will create forward movement. Likewise, increased awareness of emotions that drain your energy motivates you to begin to manage their impact.

As you continue to proceed through uncharted territory related to your change, it is natural to grieve the loss of stability. Under pressure, you may find it difficult to remain positive and focused during essential conversations. That is where the

88 | FM MAY 2022

Change Proficiency: Be Present There were times when a manager or a customer demanded, “I need to speak with you now,” and I would internally cringe. As uncertainty gripped my heart, my thoughts flickered like a light switch, disconnecting me from being fully present during the conversation. Sometimes, we might not be able to engage fully in a discussion because of doubts or fears. Have you ever had disquieting thoughts invade your mind during a serious conversation?

To “Be Present” is a technique that helps you focus your thoughts, emotions, actions and energy singularly on the specific conversation at hand. Advanced preparation is required.

Similar to how accomplished athletes improve by studying their opponents’ previous games and potential weaknesses, you will need to preplay the discussion through role-playing. Your primary intention is to become acutely aware of self-limiting beliefs, fears and anything else that could produce an inner distraction and diminish the chances of successful outcomes. Although you can role-play alone, practicing with someone you trust is preferable. If time allows, rehearse several times to uncover additional insight.

After role-playing, it is time for a field test.

Arrange several somewhat contentious but lowpressure interactions. During the discussion, when unproductive thoughts surface, silently and powerfully say, “Be Present.” Over time, you will discern less internal disruptive chatter during conversations. The second tool, “Stand on Truths,” will help you gain clarity to make better decisions.

Change Proficiency: Stand on Truths As a leader, there have been times when I desired success for a team member more than their performance demonstrated they wanted.

Despite the facts, I gave them numerous chances to improve until I finally had to let them go and accept the change it would mean. Decisions that do not have a foundation in truth, whether due to our judgment being clouded by personal preferences, unrealistic expectations or wishful

thinking can derail progress.

The Change Proficiency “Stand on Truths” is a strategy used to realign outdated perceptions with new realities. Without the most accurate and current information, whether about how you view yourself, others or a challenge, your actions will fall short of the desired goal. In my example in the above paragraph, my assumption that the team member would eagerly grab the opportunity — and it was a great one — was based on what I would have done in that situation.

In my earlier experience, internally cringing when someone demanded to speak with me, I erroneously allowed self-limiting beliefs to erode my confidence and override evidence of previous success in similar situations.

To “Stand on Truths,” you have to challenge and validate or rectify thoughts or beliefs that may be outdated or counterproductive. Afterward, you must consciously choose your new or reaffirmed path. You might think that the latter action would occur naturally, but it often does not. After the decision is made, you need to execute the plan.

Throughout implementation, conscious choices, such as reversal of unrealistic timetables or decisions, strengthening boundaries or changing how you work and with whom, will be required to support your new direction.

When we arrive at the “Accept” stage of change, your increased awareness and willingness to begin to face current and potential difficulties and consequences help prepare you for forward movement. Practice the Change Proficiency “Be Present” to minimize internal chatter during a conversation. Utilize “Stand On Truths” to update beliefs, boost confidence and make better decisions. Be patient with yourself and remember, a pilot takes incremental moves to plot a different course to arrive at a new destination. Give yourself the same grace.

Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA, PCC DJ Consulting Services, Inc. East Fishkill, New York 12533 djohnson@djcsfirm.com (845)447-1037

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FASHION VS. STYLE: SOLVING THE PROBLEM

By Daniella Platt, publicity and brand strategist

makeup trends that are sashaying down the runway at the season’s latest fashion show.

H

ow does your style make an impact on your life, demeanor, and well-being?

Fashion is the clothing you love to admire — the garments that fill your closet. Style, on the other hand, is how you use fashion to make your big impact on the world and create your image, which is your personal calling card. Your image can affect your confidence, mood and attitude, and has the power to impact every area of your life to help you thrive.

Let’s uncover the problems that women can face when it comes to developing, maintaining and understanding their own fashion and style — and tips to use your clothing to stand out. I caught up with Leslie Gutstein, a renowned personal stylist, on the heels of launching Atarie magazine, a consumer lifestyle magazine focused on “connecting inner and outer health and beauty.”

Gutstein believes that style is a mindset, and is on a mission to help women holistically use style to fuel their best selves and know their self-worth.

Gutstein shared her perspective on fashion versus style, how shoppers can develop their personal style and why learning the difference matters today.

In a world where trends dominate fashion choices, why is important to understand fashion vs. style?

Society’s perception of what “ideal beauty” means is constantly changing, and fashion trends are dictated to us when we see the clothing and

90 | FM MAY 2022

However, the problem is not with the latest trends being forced upon us — it is the unrealistic sense of perfectionism that is hindering our personal style development. This perfectionist attitude can be interpreted as the societal idea of what the ideal woman should look and dress like, which can lead to thoughts of “I’ll never be good enough” or “I’ll never be beautiful enough.”

What problem are you aiming to solve through styling?

We live in a world of social media filters and faux pictures of realities at runway shows. We can get lost in a facade of perfectionism that is unattainable, and the fashion we see on the runways may not necessarily align with who we are.

Why does personal style matter?

It is our job to use style as a tool so that we can get to know ourselves on a deeper level. To combat these impractical ideals of what society holds to be true regarding fashion, we must define what true beauty means to us. We need to understand who we are at our core so that we can understand what makes us unique from others and become comfortable with using the talents with which we were innately born.

What advice can you share for women who wish to develop their personal style?

Get to know your body. When you buy the exact same pieces that you see someone else wearing, you may not be taking your own body shape into account. Be aware of the cuts that look best on you — knowing what looks good on your body type will also help you to stay consistent with your style and develop your signature look.

Write it down. Start from the inside out, not the outside in. It is important to describe with

words who you are and what your style is. I provide my customers with 25 style words to identify their style persona. The list is available in Atarie magazine and on our website for women on a quest to find their signature look.

Articulate your perception of how you show up in the world. Visualize the way you desire to express yourself and your style, and begin to dress the part. It becomes more and more natural over time.

Create a vision. Choose inspirational photos and aesthetic pieces to guide you to your goals.

Find colors, textures and prints that stand out, and take different aspects of these photos to make them your own.

What are fun style tips women can use today?

Plan all of your outfits for the week. Mindfulness of fashion and style is like being mindful of the foot you eat: It will help you focus on style that makes you feel fabulous — and forget the stress!

In warmer climates — like Florida where we live — it’s natural to wear light and breathable clothing made of cotton. You always have to be comfortable.

A jacket always gives an outfit structure.

Did you know that long necklaces make you appear taller? Always accessorize your outfits with chic pieces like hats, belts and jewelry.

Jewelry should also fit your body type, drawing the focal point to your face.

Check out Leslie Gutstein of Atarie Style Consulting to finding your style at atarieboutique.com and follow along for tips at @atariestyleconsulting on Instagram. Follow for more with Platt at daniella.today.

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BEAUTY AND THE APPAREL INDUSTRY

GOLF CLASSIC

By Benjamin S. Seigel, Esq.

where beauty may be more productive, but the impact of individuals’ looks is mostly independent of occupation, suggesting the existence of pure employee discrimination,” the article added.

Examples in Today’s Retail Stores Katie Way’s article for Vice, “Working in Retail Means Getting Daily Commentary on Your Body,” outlined the ways that comments on workers’ body types and physical attributes are a shocking yet commonplace occurrence when working in retail.

person’s appearance can take on them.”

Kay continued, “Because sizes are determined by retailers rather than standardized, brands label clothing with numbers and other measurement markers that aren’t indicative of how they actually

F

or the last 40-plus years, I have been an attorney specializing in matters related to the textile and apparel industries. During that time, I never realized the relationship between apparel and aesthetic beauty until the subject matter of this month’s magazine was brought to my attention.

2020

This is intended to trick shoppers (usually womBENEFITING NATIONAL JEWISH fit.en,HEALTH though some men’s brands vanity size too) into feeling smaller, and thus, ‘flattering’ them into

buying more clothing that insists they’re a certain size. But vanity sizing is an albatross for retail

EL CABALLERO workers, too.”

MONDAY, Way cited an Insider report that detailed the COUNTRY CLUB conditions for employees of the women’s MAY 4working The body of a salesperson came into play as Kay clothing store Brandy Melville. That report said, Tarzana, California introduced the example of a college student, Zoya

“Previously, Brandy Melville was probably best Davis, working in a popular youth clothing store known for carrying a single small size in the mato discuss the relationship between beauty and jority of its clothing, inherently limiting who could shop there. But the report revealed systematic disapparel. Kay said, “[While] most of her customcrimination and objectification of its employees in er interactions are pleasant, questions about her the form of store policy that requires young workbody tended to come in two forms: as a means of ers be photographed daily in order to be judged asking Sonnenblick for help or as snooping cloaked in a cusAnthony Behrstock by higher-ups on their weight, race and other David tomer service request. ... Davis said she’s noticed Commonwealth Land and Title Sonnenblick-Eichner Company physical attributes.”

Beauty’s Historic Impact on the Fashion a shift in tone in certain conversations after some Co-Chair Co-Chair Industry recent weight loss.

In an article titled “Beauty and the Labor Market,” The article also outlined the discrimination that Zach Brandler Charles Fred Lionetti retailer’s Michael Rosenblum can potentially come from mainstream published in the American Economic Review, au- Eberly Douglas Elliman Real Estate and Jeff The Eberly Company Rosenblum Law Office thors Daniel S. Hammermesh E. Biddle sizing charts. Way wrote,Business “Outside Broker of basicand con-Consultant “‘When I had more weight, more people would analyzed the impact of looks on the earnings of sumerist entitlement, a big part of the issue is that be like, ‘Oh, what size are you?’ constantly, conJonathan Canter Ronald Friedman Jeff Mann Todd Sherman retail employees in the fashion industry. The article inconsistent sizing makes buying clothes confus- stantly,” she said. ‘I didn’t always take it to heart, JP Morgan Securities Marcum LLP Mann Publications First Pacific Financial said, “Plain people earn less than average-look- ing. … This means shoppers aren’t left with a lot but it’s also like, OK… do you not believe me?’” ing people, who earn less than the good-looking. of options for easily understanding what an article Steven Cohen Carrie Jenkins Deborah Medway Paul Stern The penalty is and [five] to 10 percent, of clothing might look like on any given body.

Realplainness Estate Investment Triumph Business Capital Commonwealth Land TitleBenjamin S.Guggenheim Seigel, Esq. Commercial is of counsel Real to the law slightly larger than beauty premium.

Operational Execthe and Principal Estate Finance, LLC firm G & B Law LLP. He specializes in matters re“Sales associates might seem like a convenient William Levinson Eric Nelson lated to the textile and apparel industries.

He can “Effects for men are at least as great asCarlton for womproxy — but only if youRimrock disregard theEstate toll that Fields Real Ventures en. … Better-looking people sort into occupations be reached via email at bseigel@gblawllp.com regular, probing questions and feedback about a

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Having done some research on the relationship between the two, I found a plethora of articles and publications on the subject, and was able to become informed on that very significant relationship in today’s commerce.What follows is a sample of some of those articles and that relationship.

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COLUMNS

| CALIFORNIA

GEN Z: UP NEXT, BIGGER THAN EVER? BUT NOT WITHOUT ISSUES

By Michael Serwetz

This is the third in a series of articles about today’s luxury market and consumer. My last article, “Meet the HENRYs” focused on the millennials as a luxury market consumer. Now we turn to Gen Z, who will follow millennials into the workplace. Will they surpass millennials as a target consumer segment?

I

n 2015, Goldman Sachs issued a report entitled, “What If I Told You?” which, as one of the “tells,” said that “Gen Z will be larger and more influential than millennials.” Numbers for this generation have ranged as high as 90 million, and they boast unique attributes, which we will review below.

But first, let’s be sure we all agree on the generational delineations. Starting points for Gen Z and ending points for millennials have varied a year or two, but based on Pew Research Center’s latest data, Gen Zers were born between 1997 and 2012, and currently range from ages 10 to 25.

So, why should we be excited about Gen Z and what questions are there to be asked about their consumption habits?

To begin, Gen Z were “born connected.” In 1997, the internet already existed and was quickly turning into a viable business mode (Amazon started in 1994). After the dot-com crash of 2000 (the oldest Gen Zers were only 3), those survivors formed the core of today’s online marketplace. By any assumption of when Gen Zers started to use the internet for social media and shopping, the medium was already thriving. Gen Zers grew up with devices in their hands and they know how to use them. This is not to say that they are addicted to online shopping, but having a device in their hand all day is in their DNA. Gen Zers were born into a troubling world, and are growing up with phenomena like the above and COVID-19. Does the plethora of social media opportunities make them feel like important parts of the global community? Apparently not — 79% of Gen Zers reported feeling lonely, as opposed to 71% of millennials and 50% of Boomers; the feedback was evenly divided between men and women.

This trend extends to a disturbing increase in sui-

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cide rates, especially among girls. CNN reports that “Starting in 2007, the rates of suicide for girls 10 to 14 increased 12.7% per year, compared with 7.1% for boys the same age. A similar trend was seen for teens 15 to 19, with rates of suicide going up 7.9% for girls and 3.5% for boys.” The report added that girls may be more vulnerable to the negative effects of social media and cites a report from the Journal of the American Medical Association, saying “Compared with boys, girls use social media more frequently and are more likely to experience cyberbullying.”

How does the above influence Gen Zers as customers, given that their numbers are so large and that they will doubtless enter the HENRY (high earner, not rich yet) ranks in the near future? Some trends in their purchasing outlook continue the trend that was begun by their Millennial elders, but with more emphasis.

Let’s begin with the social profile of Gen Zers: • They are better educated: 59% of Gen Zers were pursuing college in 2017, compared with 53% of millennials in 2002.

• They are more racially diverse than millennials: 48% of Gen Zers were nonwhite in 2018, as opposed to 39% of millennials in 2002.

• One in four Gen Zers are Hispanic, with numbers increasing in the Western U.S. • The median household income where Gen Zers live exceeds that of older generations, at $63,700.

• They tend to be more liberal than earlier generations and vote in greater numbers.

Here we have a customer who is more diverse, more educated than older generations, totally connected and sometimes unhappy. How does that affect their purchasing outlook and power?

In addition to becoming a consumption powerhouse on their own in the near future, Gen Zers are influencing the spending of their households now. A report from The Shelf stated, “Gen Z commands a remarkable $143 billion in buying power. That’s almost 40% of all consumer shopping … Ninety-three percent of parents say their Gen Z children influence their household spending.

Another 70% of parents ask their Gen Z kids for advice before making purchase decisions.”

Other highlights from that report include: Gen Z values privacy and security, being wiser to the power of global connections; they are loyal to brands who meet their product, price and social expectations; they are working earlier and more than millennials did at their age; having grown up during a recession, they are thrifty; they are passionate about social issues; they prefer authenticity and transparency in marketing and are the perfect example of ROPO (research online, purchase offline) as 81% of Gen Zers surveyed prefer to shop in store as opposed to online, according to The Shelf.

While we have so far focused on U.S. statistically, we should remember that the purchasing power of Gen Zers in Asia is huge — and will account for 50% of luxury spending by 2025.

The fact that Gen Zers have grown up with some insecurity makes them even more of a passionate candidate for luxury brands. According to a Crobox report, the Gen Zer fits the psychographic profile of the luxury consumer: • Luxury purchases are hedonic, releasing dopamine and making the buyer feel good.

• They are impulsive, as gifts or “treats” making the purchaser feel they “can do it.”

• Luxury shoppers give the purchaser a feeling of financial power (even if they don’t necessarily have it yet).

• Luxury consumers demand that their brands be “woke” in terms of sustainability, ethics, etc.

Further, the luxury customer falls into one or more of the following clusters, all of which appeal to Gen Zers: • The Need for Uniqueness: I am not just a number on social media.

• Costly Signaling and Status: Showing others you can spend it.

• Building the Self and Self-Narrative: Who I am and who I want to be.

Troubled, concerned and passionate. This profile of the demographics and psychographics of Gen Z customers has me convinced that they will surpass their millennial elders as the bedrock of the luxury business in the near future. The time is now for brands to start cultivating and following them.

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COLUMNS

INVENTORY MANAGEMENT AS A COMPETITIVE WEAPON

By Anne Marie Soto, Retail Marketing Society

inventory was in front of the customer, available on the sales floor,” said Berryman. “In collaboration with RFID Sherpas, I was able to redeploy a lot of the hours that were otherwise spent on very monotonous manual tasks in our stores and further down the chain as well.”

I

n order to operate profitably, it is imperative that retailers maintain a precise real-time view of the inventory residing in each of their stores.

A recent Retail Marketing Society webinar explored how radio-frequency identification (RFID) technology is doing exactly that for many retailers.

Not only is this technology benefitting their in-store and online customers, but it is also making life easier for their front-line employees.

What is RFID Technology?

“Think of it as a smart label,” explained Marshall Kay, founder and principal of RFID Sherpas. “It looks like a sticker you would expect to see on the outside of a box, but this sticker has a microchip inside that has the product’s [universal product code (UPC)] information and a serial number. Then you have a device that’s like a barcode scanner, using radio waves, that can read the sticker up to 25 to 30 feet away. You can also put RFID at a doorway between the sales floor and the stockroom, at the exit of a store to determine what’s passing through and even at checkout if you want to speed up that process.”

Substituting a smart label for a traditional label costs approximately four to five cents per label — an investment that reaps many rewards and can quickly pay for itself.

During his tenure as head of retail operations, Ralph Lauren, Europe, Mark Berryman focused on using RFID to help with business operations, basically concentrating on the stores. “Predominantly, it was around replenishments and making sure that all the

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Every Store Can Be a Distribution Center RFID makes it possible to turn every store into a fulfillment center. Across the board, the technology provides inventory accuracy, inventory visibility and inventory “find-ability.” It allows retailers to capture demand whenever and wherever it materializes, to identify a singular SKU in a remote location and make it available to a digital customer. And if they don’t know exactly where an item is, a mobile device, much like a Geiger counter, can lead them to the product, whether it be on the sales floor, in a fitting room or in a stockroom. Once they get to within 25 or 30 feet of the item, it will beep.

This system is useful not just for finding an item for a customer, but also for replenishment, for in-store pickup or for a ship-from-store.

To quote Mark Parker, who is the executive chairman of Nike, “RFID gives us the most complete view of our inventory that we’ve ever had.” In 2019, he told the investor community that RFID was “quickly becoming the most precise tool in our arsenal to meet a consumer-specific need at the exact right moment.”

Getting a Handle on Theft “Disappearing” merchandise is a problem for every retailer. Joe Coll, vice president, asset protection operations & strategy, Macy’s Inc., pointed out the misnomers in the world of asset protection.

Typically, a store might be focused on the summer product, but as it begins to get cold and winter coats start to sell, asset protection resources shift to outerwear departments. The conventional wisdom is that if a category starts to sell in the stores, people will start stealing it.

But data from the RFID system showed Macy’s

that significant theft of outerwear was occurring well before winter. Organized crime rings operate much like retailers: getting their products into fence locations in advance of the onset of cold weather.

Macy’s found this data to be immensely helpful.

Employee theft is also a reality. From an internal perspective, RFID helps a retailer to identify who and how merchandise is being secreted out of the store. who is secreting merchandise out of the store and how they are doing so. All employees — new hires and veteran employees — are screened as they go through the employee exits. This takes bias and human error out of the equation, and the revelations can be surprising. Macy’s discovered that some of their longest-tenured and most-trusted employees were routinely stealing from it.

Staying Ahead of the Pack According to Kay, staying ahead in the apparel sector now boils down to three questions: • How many ways are you utilizing these tools in these capabilities?

• How good are you becoming in each of those different ways?

• What are you doing with the new data that you now have at your disposal?

“The gap keeps widening between management teams that understand this stuff and management teams that don’t,” said Kay. And he believes that certain apparel businesses are running out of time, whether they realize it or not. Already facing a slew of pressures, the absence of inventory accuracy at the store level will, in Kay’s view, “prove to be as dangerous to them as a carbon monoxide leak: a silent killer!”

Retail Marketing Society (201)692-8087 www.retailmarketingsociety.org retailmarketingsoci@retailmarketingsociety.org

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© Jenna Bascom

TRADE SHOWS

T

he largest sourcing event on the East Coast returns to the Javits Center this July with new product categories, partnerships, educational opportunities, curated trends and more.

Following the decision to move January’s shows virtual, Messe Frankfurt announced that the East Coast’s premier sourcing event returns to the traditional face-to-face format this July. The in-person shows — Texworld New York City, Apparel Sourcing New York City and Home Textile Sourcing — are set to include brand new product categories, invigorated specialty sections, and a robust offering of networking and educational opportunities, said the company.

102 | FM MAY 2022

Texworld New York City is one of the largest sourcing events for apparel fabric buyers, research and product development specialists, designers, merchandisers and overseas sourcing professionals. The international business platform offers a wide product range covering the entire fabric spectrum — from casual cotton to function fabrics and sophisticated knits to intricate laces, season-to-season attendees discover textiles of innovative structures, material mixes and color palettes.

As a long-term joint venture partnership between Messe Frankfurt and CCPIT-Tex, Apparel Sourcing New York City offers apparel brands, retailers, wholesalers and independent

design firms a dedicated sourcing marketplace for finding the best international apparel manufacturers. As the only event on the East Coast to focus on finished apparel, contract manufacturing and private label development, the show provides attendees direct access to suppliers specializing in ready-to-wear for men, women, children and accessories.

Home Textiles Sourcing, also a long-term venture partnership between Messe Frankfurt and CCPIT-TEX, is one of the largest sourcing events in North America to solely focus on fabrics and finished soft goods for all home applications. Held annually alongside Texworld New York City and Apparel Sourcing New

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TRADE SHOWS

CO-LOCATED TEXWORLD NYC, APPAREL SOURCING NYC & HOME TEXTILE SOURCING RETURN IN-PERSON FOR SUMMER 2022

York City, Home Textiles Sourcing provides manufacturers, retailers, jobbers, converters, contract specifiers and designers a one-stopsourcing venue to locate new fabrics and products for their latest collections. Together, the three co-located shows create one of the largest fabric sourcing destinations for the North American marketplace.

As a key element and attendee favorite, Textile Talks and the Lenzing Seminar Series will return live on the show floor with an impressive speaker line-up and tailored industry topics, Messe Frankfurt said. Texworld NYC’s educational program offers insightful and informative sessions for every role and level of experience

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across all segments of the industry that include topics that are necessary in today’s environment.

Attendees can also discover the trends for Fall/ Winter 2023 and 2024 in the Texworld Trend Showcase curated by New York-based trend agency, TOBE/The Doneger Group.

without physically being present at the event, the company said. Buyers can return to sourcing in-person while still being afforded the ability to communicate with participating exhibitors across the virtual platform through matchmaking and one-on-one chat capabilities.

Texworld NYC, Apparel Sourcing NYC and Home Textiles Sourcing will continue creating opportunities to support the textile community by connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to the U.S. market with their hybrid format options, the Sourcing Showroom and the Virtual Platform.

This innovative exhibition concept offers those exhibitors still facing travel restrictions the ability to showcase their textiles and finished goods

Due to the newly issued requirements and extended restrictions, many exhibitors from China and other international regions will be represented in the Sourcing Showroom this July.

To meet market demands, there will also be an increase of exhibitors representing countries outside of China including Turkey, Egypt, Taiwan and India.

MAY 2022 FM | 103

TRADE SHOWS

IN-PERSON EVENTS RETURN WITH INFORMA MARKETS SINGAPORE

I

nforma Markets Singapore has announced the return of several inperson events through November 2022.

Singapore Maritime Week returned in April, and the upcoming events this year include: ATX, which will take place in June; FHA F&B and Jewellery and Gem World (JGW) in September; FHA HoReCa and Singapore International Bunkering Conference and Exhibition (SIBCON), which will return in October and OSEA and Cosmoprof Asia, which will take place in November.

The 2022 return to in-person events has generated enthusiasm from a wide variety of industries that are eager to present a broad selection of products, meet, connect and do business, said Informa Markets Singapore.

The comeback allows the company to bring

communities back together again, providing platforms for business growth.

With Singapore easing restrictions and signaling more relaxed safety management measures, there is confidence in a safe and successful comeback, the company said. JGW and Cosmoprof Asia are new to the city state, moving from Hong Kong to Singapore. These further enhance Informa Markets’ footprint in Singapore, alongside well-known brands in the food, maritime, energy and technology sectors.

“As we develop deeper partnerships with government and industry bodies, a focal point of our shows will be sustainability,” Informa Markets Singapore added.

This year, JGW and Cosmoprof Asia have also

been selected to expand Informa Markets’ “Better Stand” development plan under the company’s industry-leading sustainability program, Faster Forward. This is crucial for meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions (MICE) at large, and Informa Markets will continue to find opportunities to lead sustainability initiatives in the region, said the company.

“Informa Markets is optimistic about the global MICE sector’s recovery, and here in Singapore, we are pleased to announce a ramped up offering of shows across various verticals,” said Ian Roberts, vice president, Asia, Informa Markets. “We look forward to welcoming our customers back to Singapore, and work with our supply chain partners to deliver best-inclass events.”

TRADE SHOWS

JUNIPERMARKET LAUNCHES FIRST SALES EVENT

J

uniperMarket, the newly launched wholesale marketplace powered

by International Market Centers (IMC), launched its first-ever sales event, Spring Savings, during which it offered a 20% cash rebate on all purchases plus extra deals and incentives from nearly two dozen leading brands.

Juniper is a fully integrated, omnichannel B2B commerce solution and multi-line B2B e-commerce marketplace, empowering buyers and sellers to better manage and grow their business at markets and year-round. Juniper offers a sales automation and commerce platform (JuniperCommerce) combined with a new multi-line B2B e-commerce marketplace (JuniperMarket) that together empower sales teams, streamline product

data management and deliver real-time visibility across channels — driving business efficiency and growth for buyers and sellers.

Juniper is powered by International Market Centers (IMC), the world’s largest owner and operator of premier wholesale showroom space for the furniture, home décor, gift and apparel industries with more than 60 years of relationships and experience creating scalable business platforms for wholesale commerce.

“The Spring Savings Event is the first of many special buying opportunities that will showcase JuniperMarket’s leading brands and incentivize buyers to source and shop on our marketplace,” said Juniper CEO Bill Furlong.

“We’re launching with an emphasis on top gift and home furnishings brands to demonstrate

how a digital tool like JuniperMarket can make year-round buying more efficient for retailers.”

Participating brands included A&B Home (furniture, home decor); C&F Industries (home decor, kitchen decor, everyday/seasonal bedding); Elk Group (lighting, furniture, home decor); Evergreen (home and garden decor, sports products, accessories); Feizy (rugs); HomArt (home accessories); Napa Easy (wineinspired furnishings); Park Hill (home decor, gifts, accessories); Roman (gifts, accessories); Sagebrook Home (home accessories, accent furniture, wall decor, lightening); SPI Home (home, garden, gallery decor); Sullivans (everyday/seasonal home décor, botanicals); Tremont (artificial flowers, gifts, seasonal decor) and Zuo Modern (indoor and outdoor furniture), among other brands.

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STYLE FUNDAMENTALS: THE FAMOUS & THE FUTURE PUZZLE BY MYLES MELLOR

Across

1. Unconventional 5. Functions 9. One of the foremost fashion designers of the 20th century 10. Top of the line 11. Reba McEntire's "___ Survivor" (2 words) 13. Amethyst and tourmaline 14. Type of shirt, 2 words 17. Cool clothes 18. Not quite right 19. Skin-colored 20. Hair styles 22. Yarn with a looped or curled ply 23. Deep red color 25. Site of a famous Fashion Week, abbr.

26. Iridescent material 28. Met display 30. Aromatherapist's supply 31. Avenue intersector 32. Louis Vuitton and Hermes, e.g.

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Down

1. Audacious 2. Lady Gaga's fashionable film (3 words) 3. Runs into 4. Runway models display it 6. New destination for resort and lounge wear (2 words) 7. Date 8. Stone-washed garment 12. Created 15. Not cool any more 16. Brings together two or more elements 17. French, of the 19. Kind of hose 21. Expensive rocks 24. Rihanna, for one 27. Dispose of 29. Price label

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Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy

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aries

in the

Taurus Tarot Card Loyal, determined Taurus is represented by the Hierophant card in Tarot. The Hierophant embodies the act of learning from one’s knowledgeable teachers and elders in order to search for higher truths through exploring well trodden traditions.

gemini

cancer

Love is in the air! Geminis’ relationships feel constructive during this month, and plans for the future are pushing forward; romantic feelings are mutual and sincere. Aside from relationships, May begins slowly for you, so now is the perfect time to relax and reset for the upcoming summer — which is sure to be a busy one.

This month, Cancers will experience peace and harmony in their romantic relationships. Single Cancers should be especially open to love, as it may be found in unexpected places. By being more relaxed, you will attract those who want to be around you. Thanks to the planetary alignments in Pieces and Taurus the month, your finances are looking prosperous.

leo

virgo

May will offer Leos many pleasant surprises regarding career and financial situations. You may also experience some tension within your relationships with loved ones. At the end of the month, things start to settle and you will be able to breathe and relax. Now more than ever, it is necessary to see the light at the end of the tunnel through any stressful events.

Spring offers Virgos great change — but you must trust the process and adapt to what alters your daily routine. Getting out of your comfort zone will benefit you and help to implement the positive outcomes that you seek. Do not fear difficulties in work that may arise because of any shifts — this is exactly what you’ve been needing.

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116 | FM MAY 2022

taurus

Taureans will witness much success in a few areas of their lives this month. Your career and personal goals are thriving, so don’t undermine your roles in these relationships — your hard work is noticed and appreciated. However, there will be some misunderstandings with loved ones during mid-May. This will cause you some tension, but those negative feelings won’t last for long.

The planetary alignments are not in your favor this month, so try to have patience.

Things won’t happen as quickly as you’d like, but try to see them through. Impulsive acts are natural for you — if you’re not careful, it will put you in deeper trouble. Instead of fueling tensions with your partner, reveal your feelings without fearing vulnerability.

Taurus: Harness the Power of the Zodiac $12; amazon.com

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stars... libra

This is a month of stability for Libras. A beautiful and rewarding period of positivity and heightened energy, May will offer business opportunities that should be taken with no hesitation. Planetary and star alignments encourage you to make good decisions, though you may be tempted by new experiences that won’t be good for you in the long run.

Gemini Tarot Card The Lovers is the ruling Tarot card for Gemini. On the surface, The Lovers card symbolizes love, soulmates, romance and desire — but when the card is interpreted in terms of personality, it reflects many of Gemini’s perks, quirks and contradictions.

HOROSCOPE

capricorn

sagittarius

For Capricorns, May’s motto is “everything good comes to those who wait.” You are already putting in the sweat and the hard work, so now it is time to watch your efforts unfold. Positive influences encourage you to relax and not overwork yourself this month; listen to your loved ones when they are concerned for your health. Remember that it is necessary to let things happen rather than forcing an outcome.

In May, those in relationships are continuing to feel confident in their partners, and seeing the fruits of a solid foundation. This month is a great time to fully commit to yourself with nothing holding you back and to be more vulnerable with your loved ones.

For strong Sagittarius placements, luck will be a common theme for May. Remain grateful and watch it all unfold!

aquarius

pisces

Now is the time to live your life as freely as you know you should. In May, self-assured energy will overcome you, and you will feel yourself enter into the mentality to really do what you want — and you won’t let anyone or anything stand in your way. It’s a great mentality to have, but don’t be hasty, as you don’t want to push your loved ones away.

For most of May, you will feel relaxed, as there are no major obligations for you to face in the first half of this month. Around May 18, though, things will begin to rev up.

You will feel more anxiety surrounding the possibilities and what if’s that your professional life presents — stay close to your family, as you need their support the most.

Gemini: Harness the Power of the Zodiac $9; amazon.com

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scorpio

May is a happy month for Scorpios. Your love life, whether or not you are in a relationship, looks favorable, as people will be drawn to your mysterious energy. On May 17, you may feel stress and overwhelm surrounding your career take over — take a moment to breathe, and then go on to handle your business.

Gemini: Harness the Power of the Zodiac $12; amazon.com

MAY 2022 FM | 117

Save the Date J E W I S H C HILD RE N’S M U S E U M 1 7 TH A N N U A L

GALA DINNER

Promoting Goodness and Kindness M AY 1 7, 2 0 2 2 • 1 6 I YA R 5 7 8 2

Honoring Hon. Eric Adams • Mayor of New York City LEADERSHIP AWARD

Hon. Loretta Preska Chief Judge • Southern District of New York ARI HALBERSTAM MEMORIAL AWARD

Beargivers • Joseph Sprung & Diane Lempert LAMPLIGHTERS AWARD

RSVP AT JCM.MUSEUM/DINNER

BY THE NUMBERS

The Cost of Beauty HOW MUCH IS THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORTH? Everyday essential makeup basics and full glam colors, hair care and styling products, cleansing skincare creams and chemical peel treatments, sunscreen, perfume and nail polish — the beauty industry is a huge market that has some kind of product for everyone. As beauty trends such as CBD-infused products entering into the mainstream, the greater availability of environmentally conscious skincare and viral makeup hacks grow in popularity by the day, there is no shortage of ways that consumers can impact the beauty industry with their interest and their wallets.

Here is a look at the hugely profitable beauty industry — including the potential growth of many of its sectors and how much beauty fans are spending — by the numbers.

$177 BILLION

$313 Average amount spent by women in the United states on beauty products per month (Birdie)

Projected generation of the skincare industry by 2025 (Statista)

$511 BILLION

Approximate net worth of the global beauty industry (Common Thread Collective)

$10.2 BILLION

The brand value of L’Oreal, which sits at the top of the list of the world’s most valuable cosmetic companies (Brand Finance)

40% Percentage of the global cosmetic market made up by skincare (Common Thread Collective)

120 BILLION

Units of packaging produced by the beauty industry per year (Bloomberg)

$54 BILLION Estimated worldwide value of the organic/natural beauty market by 2027 (Formula Botanica)

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5.2%

$7.7 BILLION

Expected yearly growth percentage of the global hair care market by 2026 (Fortune Business Insights)

Expected amount that beauty companies will spend on advertising in 2022 (Bandt)

MAY 2022 FM | 119

SOCIAL SOIREE

ON THE

RED CARPET

BY R. COURI HAY

Chanel No. 5 Celebrates its First Century When Marylin Monroe was asked what she wore in bed, she quipped, “Chanel No. 5.”

Coco Chanel debuted the legendary fragrance 100 years ago, and to mark the anniversary, the company hosted a party dubbed “Chanel No. 5 in The Stars” at Rockefeller Center’s iconic ice-skating rink.

For the entertainment, champion Canadian figure skater Elladj Baldé performed a breathtaking routine to “Uptown Funk” and Mary J. Blige sang a selection of her hits.

Lily Allen at “Chanel No. 5 in The Stars” (© Patrick McMullan)

trucks and then heated up to provide hot meals when they arrived at the camps. Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller are among the New York chefs who use the sous vide method. cuisinesolutions.com Audrey Gruss: Race of Hope in PB Audrey Gruss and Scott Snyder were the grand marshals of the Hope for Depression Research Foundation’s Race of Hope benefit in Palm Beach, where over half a million dollars was raised for depression research. Sharon Bush, Robert Murray, Tara Ross, Whitney Schott and Hillary Geary Ross were also among those cheering the runners on. palmbeach.raceofhopeseries.com

Dr. Marie Hayag: House Calls in Palm Beach The perfumed pack included Lily Dr. Marie Hayag, the celebrity dermatologist who Allen, Dylan Penn, Ella Hunt, founded Fifth Avenue Aesthetics, has opened a new Sadie Sink at location at 185 Banyan Blvd. in West Palm Beach. Dr. Brittany O’Grady, Lauren Ridloff and Chanel No. 5 Celebrates its First Century Hayag offers a full range of procedures in the office, and artist Jemima Kirke, who said, “I (© Patrick McMullan) she now makes Palm Beach-located house calls that start love a woman who wears the same at $3,000 for injectables, Botox and Kybella. mariehayagmd.com scent every day. It’s glamorous and classic.

It’s old Hollywood.” The French actress Martina Navratilova & Peter Thomas Roth Unveil Navratilova’s Marion Cotillard is among the fragrance’s Paintings ambassadors. chanel.com Tennis legend Martina Navratilova and skin care mogul Peter Ukraine Humanitarian Mission Thomas Roth celebrated the unveiling of two of her paintings in Chef Jose Andres’ World Central Kitchen Roth’s new penthouse in Miami. The female sports icon created the received 400,000 meals in Ukraine and Poland works by dipping tennis balls into paint and then hitting them onto from U.S. based global food company Cuisine a blank canvas to create the high-energy pieces of art. Navratilova Solutions. The company’s chairman Stanislas Vilgrain, CMO has an E-Pace Jaguar that is wrapped in one of her black and white Thomas Donohoe, Chef Gerard Bertholon and over a dozen other paintings, which never fails to create a stir when she drives around volunteers drove a convoy of 12 trucks from Lyon, France to the town. peterthomasroth.com refugee sites that were in desperate need of food to feed over 3 million displaced families fleeing the war.

Sylvester Stallone: Paintings in Palm Beach Children of Cuisine Solutions’ Sylvester Stallone, who lives in Palm Beach with his employees as well as other wife Jennifer Flavin and three daughters school children decorated Sophia, Sistine and Scarlet, has had the food boxes with peace a long career, both as an actor and signs and hearts. an artist. Rocky recently showed 15 paintings at Isabelle Bscher’s The company is Galerie Gmurzynska at a pioneer in the The Palm Beach Show, sous vide cooking among which was a technique, which pop-art interpretation of allowed for the Superman from 1990 premium frozen called “Sublime Hero.” precooked products to Stallone said, “Both be kept in the in art and film, I refrigerated looked at figures like Allison Sells, Gerard Bertholon and Tom Donohoe: Ukraine Humanitarian Mission (© Patrick McMullan)

Isabelle Bscher and Sylvester Stallone at The Palm Beach Show (© Johnny Pigozzi)

SOCIAL SOIREE

Spartacus or Hercules who radiated hyper-reality through their hyper masculinity.

Painting is where I feel close to a bare-naked truth, so much so that I look at the canvas as some sort of an enemy.”

The acting icon also featured a political work titled “The Blacklist,” referencing the notorious 1938 list that accused actors of being communists, along with as a series of self-portraits of him as Rocky. “I made a self-portrait with a more defined ‘pug face’ than I had back then, but to capture his sadness, I switched the brush with a screwdriver and carved the eyes,” said Stallone. gmurzynska.com Jean Shafiroff: Furry Friends Gimmie Shelter Ramona Singer and Jean Shafiroff joined football legend Joe Namath at the Furry Friend’s Gala in Florida to raise money for our four-legged friends at Furry Friends Gimmie Shelter.

Shafiroff, a long-time animal advocate, also sits on the board of the Southampton Animal Shelter. furryfriendsadoption.org Andy Sabin: Sloan Kettering Cancer Center Metal magnate Andy Sabin, who is the founder of the South Fork Natural History Museum, has arranged to bring 40 cancer-stricken kids from Kiev, Ukraine to America for treatment. In a James Bond-worthy escape, the children will be driven out of Ukraine to Poland under the cover of darkness and then airlifted to the United States, where some will be treated at the Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center and Texas Children’s Hospital. Sabin also worked with Eli Lilly to send 33,000 vials of insulin to diabetics in the war-ravaged country. southforkmusem.com Arthur Aidila: The Power Hour Legal eagle Arthur Aidala has launched his new radio show on AM 970, called “The Answer.” His first guests were Megyn Kelly, Mayor Eric Adams’ Chief of Staff Frank Carone and civil rights attorney Jason Flores Williams. aidilalaw.com

Andy Sabin and Brooke Taylor - Andy Sabin Sloan Kettering Cancer Center (© Patrick McMullan)

Scott Snyder and Audrey Gruss at the Audrey Gruss Race of Hope (© Patrick McMullan)

Jean Shafiroff and Ramona Singer at Jean Shafiroff Furry Friends Gimmie Shelter (© Jean Shafiroff )

Arthur Aidala and Megyn Kelly at Arthur Aidila The Power Hour (© Arthur Aidala)

121 | FM

National Jewish Health

Breath of Life New York Golf Tournament Honorary Chairs Robert E. Helpern* Tannenbaum Helpern Syracuse & Hirschtritt LLP Stephen B. Siegel* CBRE, Inc.

Chair Emeritus Samuel B. Lewis* SBL Property Consultants, LLC *National Jewish Health Trustee

MONDAY, JUNE 6, 2022 Brae Burn Country Club

39 Brae Burn Drive | Purchase, NY Register Today Mattie L. Shepheard | 212.297.0857 | ShepheardM@njhealth.org

njhealth.org/NYgolf All funds raised will help support groundbreaking medical research and treatment for patients with lung, heart, immune and related conditions, including asthma and COVID-19.

BENEFITING

SOCIAL SOIREE

French Soul Ever since Maurice de Sully, the peasant’s son who became bishop of Paris, presided over the laying of its cornerstore in 1163, the grace and majesty of Notre-Dame cathedral has captured the hearts and imaginations of people all over the world. In her most recent book, “Notre-Dame: The Soul of France,” Agnes Catherine Poirier explored the 800-year-old icon’s enduring charisma so brilliantly that she was recently awarded the French Heritage Society’s Book Award for 2022. The award ceremony — which included a champagne reception, conversation with the author and a reading — took place in the historic and exquisite Villa Albertine on Fifth Avenue.

For a glimpse of the interesting, elegant event, see below.

Photos courtesy of Jill Nelson (AnnieWatt.com)

Agnes Catherine Poirier

BY MICHELE GERBER KLEIN

Guy Robinson, Elizabeth Stribling

Jesse Kornbluth

Michele Gerber Klein, Helen King, Puli Rincon, Patricia Cossutta

Elizabeth Stribling, Arthur Houghton, Roberta Houghton

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Robert Myers, Marie Claude Myer

MAY 2022 FM | 123

A Closer Look

From the Oscars to the Grammy’s PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

Simu Liu in Versace at the Oscars

Snoh Aalegra in Versace at the Grammys

Penelope Cruz in Chanel at the Oscars

Lil Nas X in Balmain at the Grammys

Rachel Zegler in Dior Haute Couture at the Grammys

A Closer Look

Best Dressed Top 10 Picks Here at Fashion Mannuscript, we’ve been captivated by awards season — and who is populating the best dressed lists. From Zendaya’s sparkling full-length skirt and ultra cropped white collared shirt at the Oscars to Dua Lipa’s 90s-inspired Versace gown, celebrities have gone all-out for the triumphant return back to in-person award shows. Let’s take a closer look at our office’s top 10 fashionable picks.

Timothée Chalamet in Louis Vuitton at the Oscars

Dua Lipa in Versace at the Grammys

Venus Williams in Elie Saab at the Oscara

Doja Cat in Versace at the Grammys

Zendaya in Valentino Haute Couture at the Oscars

AMBER KERS

MASTERS THE ART OF SIMPLICITY WITH HANDMADE JEWELRY BRAND

BY LAUREN D’ERRICO Photo courtesy of Amber Krs Jewelry

A

timeless piece of jewelry is such a powerful accessory in one’s fashion arsenal because it can withstand the tests of age, trends and style. Amber Kers, the creator of her eponymous brand Amber Krs Jewelry, has always been a lover of jewelry — and knows just how meaningful jewelry can be for elevating an outfit and building a wearer’s confidence. What began as simply a hobby for Kers has now expanded into a brand that offers handmade signet rings, cuff bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more in a variety of glistening, glimmering stones — including sapphires, black onyx, diamonds and garnets — with no two stones or two pieces looking exactly alike. Since taking her first introduction to soldering course, Kers has received a degree in gemology, and chooses her stones for “quality, beauty and uniqueness,” according to the brand’s e-commerce site.

Kers’ excitement, passion and deep love for the art of jewelry-making and the jewelry industry was abundantly clear throughout our conversation. Accessorized with one of her own black onyx necklaces, Kers shared the lessons she’s learned from creating her pieces by hand, how her knowledge of gemology helps her to be transparent with her customers and the future of Amber Krs Jewelry.

Tell me about your background with jewelry and the accessories industry. Have you always loved jewelry?

I feel like I’ve always liked jewelry — I don’t know exactly who that was inspired by because no women in my family really wear a lot of it. I started off by doing hair, so jewelry wasn’t my first love. I think I always wanted to be in a career that would empower people and make people feel good.

When I started doing hair, that was my mission and my goal — you know, everyone feels good when their hair looks good — and I think that translated well into jewelry.

I started with beading, and I’d buy preset cabochons and set stones. Then, I took an introduction to soldering class, and from there it’s just been amazing because I felt like this is what I should be doing. As much as I love doing hair, I felt like I could be doing something else. I took the soldering class just as something to do, and everything else since has been a self-taught endeavor. I feel like jewelry is the only thing I’m really patient with.

Over the past 10 years or so, I’ve sort of been able to perfect my craft. I think, too, with doing hair, you’re constantly trying to keep up with what’s in, what looks good and what people are doing. I’ve always liked fashion and magazines and seeing what trends are going on, so I take that and try and put my own spin on it.

How did you introduce yourself to the art of jewelry making?

Like I said, I always liked doing jewelry as more of a hobby. I would go to bead stores and put things together and obviously wear them while I was doing hair, so people would ask [if I made a piece and] if I was selling it. I was always nervous that if I was selling my jewelry, then it would kind of take away the fun that I get from it. But I just started getting requests [for styles] and started doing it for friends. And like I said, I wanted to learn more about how I would be able to put something together on my own instead of having to buy all of the components and then put other people’s things together. So I took the intro to soldering

LAST LOOK class, and for anyone interested in doing jewelry or any sort of metal work, that’s the best place to start. Once you know how to solder — and if you just take the time and work on your craft — then you can do it. Like I said, other than the basics of metal smithing and soldering, everything I’ve done has been self-taught.

What is your favorite part of the process of making a piece of jewelry by hand?

My favorite part is stone sourcing. When you see a stone that you like and it’s something that speaks to you, everything [that you want to do with a piece] runs through your mind — and sometimes it doesn’t work out. I’m still at a point that I’m not finished with a piece until I’m finished with it.

Nothing is done until it’s absolutely done because you can mess it up and have to start all over again.

So, that’s where the patience comes in. There’s been so many times when I’ve been like, “I just need to walk away from this.” But stone sourcing is probably my favorite part because of the creativity that starts to come in, where you’re [thinking].

“I’m going to do this, and I’m going to set it with a diamond or make it into a necklace.” That’s always been really fun for me.

Stone sourcing and selling stones to jewelers is actually another aspect of the business that I want to get into. I find some stones and I think, “I love this, but I don’t know if I’ll ever really use it” — so you acquire it just because it’s a beautiful, shiny thing. Another part of doing jewelry that I’ve really found amazing is just how supportive the community is. You know, I find that most people that do jewelry really love jewelry, so if I’m not making it then I’m buying it from other jewelers that I like and support. Stone sourcing is when [the process] is the most pure. It’s so freeing to find a piece that inspires you to create something.

Tell me about your background in gemology, crystal structure and formation. How does this knowledge impact how you create a piece?

On this journey, I wanted to learn every facet of the business. When I first started out, I found that certain stones that I would buy wouldn’t be the stones that were being sold. It gets a little frustrating because you want to make sure you’re giving your client what they’re paying for — so if I say [a piece features a] ruby, then it is a legitimate ruby. I went to GIA (Gemological Institute of America) to further my knowledge in gemstones. I just wanted to make sure that if I’m saying “natural gemstones,” then it is not going to be a piece of glass that I bought from someone who was selling it to me as a ruby — because that’s happened!

After that happened a couple times, I was like, “You know, I need to make sure I know what I’m not buying.” Not only has it helped me sourcing my gemstones, but I always like to double check — it’s not necessarily that people are selling things to you under the guise of trying to rip you off or anything like that, but sometimes they just don’t know what they have. I think that in the gemstone business, people still try to be really honest, but then they get taken advantage of. It was always really important to me that if I’m going to make you a piece, then I just want you to know that you’re getting an authentic ruby, a diamond, an emerald or any sort of piece. Or if it’s something like a black onyx, they’re usually dyed and I want you to know that. It’s just transparency.

What are your favorite stones to work with?

Turquoise is probably my favorite gemstone. I love the color, and I think it’s gorgeous. I find too that [I love] working with emerald. Green is my favorite color, so I’m a little biased when it comes to some things. My favorites are probably turquoise and emerald, and I’d love to add a few more of those to my jewelry collection because I don’t really have too much of that at the moment.

What would you say is your all-time favorite piece you have made?

I try to offer timeless pieces that will be good now and 20 years from now, pieces you can wear with your other jewelry. Like I said, I love jewelry — I like wearing it, I like making it and I like supporting other jewelers. I’ve been really going more in the direction of cameos and intaglios, and trying to make those a little bit more modern and, again, timeless. They’re fun and historical, and it’s a conversation piece. Every time I wear one, someone says, “Oh my god, where did you get that?” And luckily I can say I made it! I’ve been trying to go toward creating something that has been a trend in the past to make it trendy again because it is a timeless piece.

Where are your inspirations coming from for your upcoming spring collection?

I actually just did some stone-buying, and I’m really feeling the spring colors as far as pastels go.

So a lot of lavender, light pinks and greens — very spring colors, very reminiscent of Easter eggs.

What are some jewelry trends or timeless styles that you are excited to explore with your brand, or some that you are excited to see grow more in mainstream popularity?

More simple pieces. I mean, I love gemstones, and I think that a lot of the time, gemstones can potentially get overshadowed just based off of the design. So what I try to think of every time I make a piece is, “Could you wear it with other jewelry that you like?” So it’s not just completely a statement piece, [and instead] is something I can wear anytime — I can dress it up and I can dress it down.

I think too, especially in this day and age, people are looking for more simplicity and something a little easier. You’re getting quality pieces that are simple, timeless and that you can wear with other stuff. Like I said, I like to layer and I like to wear all different kinds of jewelry brands. I think jewelry is an expression of self, just like clothing and hairstyles, so to be able to [have] one piece that you love that compliments every other piece you have is important. That’s how I like to wear my jewelry and I hope that that’s how other people like to wear it as well.

What’s coming up next for Amber Krs? I’m going to start getting more into refurbishing older pieces. I’ve been seeing a lot of other jewelry brands going in that same direction. I think people are looking at styles from a simpler time — you know, fashion is cyclical. So I feel like with intaglios [for instance,] I’m trying to think of pieces that would be antique that you can wear in a modern setting, so you don’t have to go to an antique store.

Amber Krs Jewelry is available for purchase online at amberkrs.com. Follow along with the brand on Instagram (@amberkrsjewelry) and on Facebook (@amberkrsjewels).

EVER WONDER WHERE THE PEOPLE WITH ALL THE ANSWERS, GET ALL THE ANSWERS?

Ask MARCUM Marcum’s National Retail/Consumer Products Group: Ronald Friedman ron.friedman@marcumllp.com Lenny Gordon lenny.gordon@marcumllp.com Lori Rock lori.rock@marcumllp.com Ilyssa Blum ilyssa.blum@marcumllp.com Nick Antonian nick.antonian@marcumllp.com

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