museum tour
Fabric In Fashion: A snapshot of The Museum at FIT’s new exhibit
Fashion & Textile History Gallery December 4, 2018 – May 4, 2019
By Kathleen Furore Editor’s Note: This year, The Costumer will explore museums around the country that feature exhibits and installations of special interest to anyone in the costuming profession. First stop on our journey: The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT),Seventh Avenue at 27th Street in New York City. Have you ever wondered about the role textiles have played in the history of Western women’s fashion? If so, Fabric In Fashion, an exhibit running through May 4, 2019 at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City is a good place to start. Organized by Elizabeth Way, assistant curator of costume at The Museum at FIT (the only museum in New York City dedicated solely to the art of fashion), the exhibition takes visitors on a journey through 250 years of fashion, exploring the relationship between “fabrics, silhouettes, and the cultural movements that have shaped Western fashion throughout history.” More than 65 garments and accessories, and more than 30 flat textiles, are featured. Fabric In Fashion begins with an examination of fibers. “Four objects on display—a circa 1825 silk organza overdress, feb|March 2019
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a cotton organdy dress from circa 1830, an open-weave wool dress from around 1855, and a 2000 polyester design by Yoshiki Hishinuma—set the stage,” information from FIT explains. “Each
Above: Silk brocaded taffeta roba a l’angalise, circa 1760, England Right: Two-piece dress of silk ottoman with fringe and novelty velvet, circa 1859, USA
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fabric is made from a different fiber, yet all four dresses have a light, airy, translucent appearance. These four fibers—silk, cotton, wool, and synthetics—are the most prevalent in women’s fashion.” Fabric structures are another topic Fabric In Fashion explores. “For centuries, most high fashion for women was made from textiles woven on looms. Different weaves create dramatically different effects in textiles, ultimately determining the silhouette,” according to a description of the exhibit. “Although an openknitted, empire-waist evening dress, circa 1810, is a rare early example, knitted designs did not make a significant impact in women’s high fashion until the 1920s. At that time, Lucien Lelong created his modern, sportinspired wool
