Museum Tour

Editor’s Note: This year, The Costumer will explore museums around the country that feature exhibits and installations of special interest to anyone in the costuming profession. First stop on our journey: The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT),Seventh Avenue at 27th Street in New York City. Have you ever wondered about the role textiles have played in the history of Western women’s fashion? If so, Fabric In Fashion, an exhibit running through May 4, 2019 at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City is a good place to start.

Organized by Elizabeth Way, assistant curator of costume at The Museum at FIT (the only museum in New York City dedicated solely to the art of fashion), the exhibition takes visitors on a journey through 250 years of fashion, exploring the relationship between “fabrics, silhouettes, and the cultural movements that have shaped Western fashion throughout history.” More than 65 garments and accessories, and more than 30 flat textiles, are featured. a cotton organdy dress from circa 1830, an open-weave wool dress from around 1855, and a 2000 polyester design by Yoshiki Hishinuma—set the stage,”

information from FIT explains. “Each

Fabric In Fashion begins with Above: Silk brocaded taffeta roba a l’angalise, an examination of fibers. circa 1760, England

“Four objects on display—a Right: Two-piece dress of silk ottoman with circa 1825 silk organza overdress, fringe and novelty velvet, circa 1859, USA

fabric is made from a different fiber, yet all four dresses have a light, airy, translucent appearance. These four fibers—silk, cotton, wool, and synthetics—are the most prevalent in women’s fashion.” Fabric structures are another topic Fabric In Fashion explores. “For centuries, most high fashion for women was made from textiles woven on looms. Different weaves create dramatically different effects in textiles, ultimately determining the silhouette,” according to a description of the exhibit. “Although an openknitted, empire-waist evening dress, circa 1810, is a rare early example, knitted designs did not make a significant impact in women’s high fashion until the 1920s. At that time, Lucien Lelong created his modern, sportinspired wool

jersey suit and sweater, introducing the comfortable jerseys that would become ubiquitous in all levels of women’s fashion.”

Fabric In Fashion also addresses the cultural impact textiles have had from century to century. Silk is just one example. “Sumptuous and colorful fabrics, especially of silk, were worn by European elites—both men and women—during the 18th century. Yet during the 19th century, these fabrics were mostly restricted to women,” information from FIT explains. “Such ‘feminized fabrics’ were made more complex, yet more accessible, by mechanized and steam-powered production. This is exemplified by fabric that shifts weave structures to create various scales of velvet, looped pile, and fringe in an extravagant circa 1859 silk ottoman dress.”

Sophisticated methods of producing textiles, in fact, is what helped Paris become a hotbed of haute couture.

Yoshiki Hishinuma, sheer polyester dress with rosettes, 2000, Japan

“Lyon was established as France’s luxury textile center during the 15th century, and the city’s weavers provided 19thand 20th-century couturiers with the outstanding materials that made couture distinctive,” according to FIT. If you can’t travel to New York to view Fabric In Fashion in person, you can find information about and photos of the exhibit in the Online Exhibition at http://bit.ly/NYC_Fabric.

Above: Silk organza overdress, circa 1825, USA (possibly)

Top Left: Knitted silk empire-waist evening dress, circa 1810, England

Does it irritate you when your neighbors complain about how your community’s downtown is dying, but then order half of their purchases from Amazon and drive to Walmart for the rest?

You’ve got a lot of company! The slow, painful decline of brick-and-mortar retailers has a lot of culprits, but ultimately the problem comes down to one thing: Local people ignoring stores in their town.

The good news? There is a way to fight back! It’s called the 3/50 Project— and it’s something many costume shops are participating in. This project, launched by retail consultant Cinda Baxter about 10 years ago, shows people how essential brickand-mortar businesses are to their communities.

The “3” refers to

someone’s three favorite independently owned businesses, and the “50” refers to spending $50 each month in those stores. According to www. the350project.net, if half the employed population spent $50 per month in local, independent businesses, $42.6 billion in revenue would be generated. And since a high percentage of money spent in local businesses stays in the community, that amount would go a long way to saving a town’s brick-andmortar stores.

“The 3/50 Project is really something that NCA members should be participating in,” says Marion Bradley, president of the NCA and owner of Discount Costumes in Warner Robins, Georgia. “It drives home the concept that brickand-mortar stores

— Cinda Baxter —Amy Meadows are really the heart of any community, but they can’t survive Additional 3/50 Promotions without local customers. The 3/50 Project is easy to do, and it The flyer is the heart of the concept, but Baxter has developed works!” a number of other promotions that deliver the same message.

How to Get Started • A countertop sign thatfits in an 8x10 frame. If you’re interested in participating, you can sign up at www.the350project.net. Most NCA members will choose • A 36”x 50”windowbanner.Baxtersuggests gettingother the “Storefront retailer” category. Once you’ve enrolled, your local businesses together and printing a batch of these big banstore will be added to the site’s Supporter page so consumers ners, since multiple copies cost less. interested in supporting local business can find you more easily. You’ll • Amovie theaterscreen ad.Ifyour also be listed on the 3/50 Project town still has a theater, find out if smartphone app, another way for you can run a notice about the customers to find you. 3/50 Project on-screen before the

Next, download the free PDF previews start. flyer on the website (see image at right) and print out copies that you • Bookmarks.Printthem 3-up on can distribute to your customers. 8.5 x 11 stock and put a stack of

“The flyers work best when them on your counter. handed directly to customers with their purchase or receipt, not stuck • Specialholidaypromotions.These in the bottom of a bag,” Baxter are also available as downloads on writes on her web site. “Look them the site. in the eye, smile, and tell them thanks for coming into a locally You can find more great ideas at owned business. Everyone likes to www.the350project.net/resources. feel appreciated, after all.” html.

Julie Gump, owner of Make Believe Costumes & Dancewear in Th e Results Jacksonville, Florida, is such a big Does the 3/50 Project work? Gump believer in the 3/50 Project that certainly is a believer. she prints about 40,000 copies of “I get a good reaction from the flyer each year to hand out to customers if they take the time to customers and distribute wherever listen,” she says. “I explain that local she can. businesses like mine help make the

“I give them to customers and say, ‘When you’re bored or roads and pay for the infrastructure and all those things, and can’t sleep at night, read this,’” Gump says. “I also take a stack they get it. It’s so simple, it’s stupid. Every little bit you spend of the flyers to the dance studios near me, and I staple them on locally helps grow the local economy.” the back of my [promotional] calendars. Those darn flyers are everywhere on the planet because of me!”

These include:

ton King—new for 2019! The Skeleton Queen (CF11125) includes a printed dress top, footless tights, and molded skull crown. The Skeleton King (CM11126) includes a printed shirt, detachable cape, detachable molded chest and shoulder pieces, belt, gauntlets, hood and molded crown.

Product Catalog. This go-to palette for people of color was inspired by DeShawn Hatcher, renowned makeup artist. The palette represents the darkest to lightest shades for people of color and can be used to correct, contour, and apply foundation for clients of neutral, cool, and warm undertones. The company’s 2019-2020 catalog features stunning work by some of our favorite makeup artists, more tips and tricks on best-selling as well as new products, updated pricing, and exciting NEW products we’ve added to our line.

These beautiful labels promote and identify your costumes. Woven or printed. Great prices and low minimums. Also in stock: size/care labels for washing.

This sized cotton is knitted, rather than woven, which makes it easier to block than traditionally woven buckram foundations. Useful in couture hat design as well as costume, sculpture and other design applications. Diamond pattern. Approximately 39 inches wide. www.judithm.com

Silver Rain Studio’s See-Thru Fabric Hoodie and It Only

Looks Frozen Makeup Kit. You can see out, but they can’t see in with these one-size-fits-all hoodies in a choice of cat, owl and fox designs. Wide bottom opening allows for drinking and eating while wearing. Great for parties. The It Only Looks Frozen Ice FX Pro Makeup Kit lets anyone create icy makeup effects. Formulated for cosmetic use, the makeup is safe, and fast and easy to use. Kit contains four jars: Ice Gel, Medium Crystals, Large Crystals, and Ice Powder.

516-294-1910; SilverRainStudio.com The Pirate Dressing’s Abigail Self-Tie Frill-Waist Striped

Pants. The pants are made using 100% cotton, which is soft to touch, does not harm your skin, and can be worn outdoors without worrying about the heat. The waist is held together with a wide self-tie belt that can be tied in the front to form a bow. The stripes and asymmetric wide cuffs makes the pants great to wear to pirate-, steampunk- or Renaissance-themed events; also great to wear casually with a t-shirt or top.

321-445-1837; thepiratedressing.com

Advertising in the NCA Marketplace is $35 per issue (10% discount for NCA members). You will be billed upon publication; payment is due upon receipt. For full details, see the advertising contract available at www.costumers.org. Contact

Date: January 17 - 19th, 2020 Place: Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, New Orleans, Louisiana Watch future issues of The Costumer for more information.