elRestaurante
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July 4th has come and gone. And that means summer is over.
Ok, I know that isn’t exactly what the calendar shows. But I (and pretty much everyone I know) feels that way — everyone, that is, except for my husband, el Restaurante publisher Ed Avis, who always asks if I think winter is over once New Year’s Day has come and gone when I bemoan the early end of my favorite season.
Whether you’re in the Kathy or Ed camp, the truth is that the official end of summer — September 22 —is just around the corner. And that means it is time to start planning menus and events for autumn. We hope the content we’ve created for this July/August issue will help you close out summer and smoothly transition into the fall dining season.
Are you looking for ways to spice up your menu in creative ways? Adding a few fusion dishes is one option. You’ll find examples of dishes that incorporate ingredients and cooking techniques from Latin, Asian and Italian culinary traditions in the cover story “Fabulous Fusion” that begins on page 16.
If special events are something you’re interested in exploring, collaborating with a guest chef is something to consider. As Chef Roberto Alcocer of Michelin-starred Valle in Oceanside, California explains in the story that begins on page 29, “For me, doing this is a way to offer to our guests an experience out of the box…And of course, for the restaurant, it’s good because you bring back a guest that might not be coming until the next season to try the next menu.” Why not give it a try?
And if you haven’t yet discovered the allure of Mexican whiskey, don’t miss this issue’s At the Bar, which begins on page 34. Mexico City-based writer Alfredo Espinola brings the process of making the spirit to life by describing how distillers in the land of tequila and mezcal now produce whiskey of high enough quality for you to add to your cocktail menu.
That’s just a taste of what you’ll find in this issue that bids a fond (if early) farewell to summer and ushers in fall.
PUBLISHER Ed Avis
EDITOR Kathleen Furore
ART DIRECTOR Ala Ennes
MAIN OFFICE phone: 708.267.0023
PRESS RELEASES TO: kfurore@restmex.com
MAILING ADDRESS P.O. Box 13347 Chicago, IL 60613
SHIPPING ADDRESS 1317 W. Belden Ave. Chicago, IL 60614
AD SALES/ENGLISH Ed Avis 708.218.7755 e davis@elrestaurante.com
Suzanne Bernhardt 678.880.9282 suzanne@elrestaurante.com
AD SALES/ESPAÑOL Alfredo Espinola 52-55-4006-9540 alfredo@elrestaurante.com
Published by
Maiden Name Press, LLC Volume 28, Number 4 el Restaurante (formerly el Restaurante Mexicano) (ISSN 1091-5885) is published six times a year by Maiden Name Press, LLC 1317 W. Belden Ave., Chicago, IL 60614
All contents copyright© 2025 Maiden Name Press, LLC. Nothing in this issue may be reproduced in any form without publisher’s consent.
Kathleen Furore, editor
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HOW TO TACKLE IMPORTED FOOD COSTS
BY
ED AVIS Mexican restaurants buy a lot of imported food, especially from Mexico. Unfortunately, the price of imported food is hitting the roof this year, according to a late June survey of el Restaurante readers.
“Most everything has gone up from 2 percent to 50 percent,” wrote one survey respondent. “The proteins are out of control. The condiments are outrageous. Drinks up 40 percent or more. They even went up way before tariffs and now are going up again. There’s a lot of gouging going on.”
Ninety-two percent of the respondents to our survey, which was completed by 42 Mexican restaurant owners/managers, reported that the price of avocados from Mexico is up this year, and 88 percent reported that the price of other imported produce is up.
The inflation is not limited to produce: 96 percent said the cost of imported beef, pork and poultry is up; 88 percent say Mexican corn and cornmeal is up; and 73 percent said Mexican beer prices have jumped.
The reasons for the increase are unclear. Trade agreements are supposed to shield Mexican produce from tariffs,
but the chaos and uncertainty from tariffs and border/immigration issues are affecting things. And factors that affect all food prices — demand, weather, disease, supply chain problems — also affect imported food.
RAISING PRICES, SEEKING NEW SUPPLIERS
Mexican restaurant owners are addressing increased food costs in a number of ways. Eighty percent of our survey respondents said they have raised some menu prices, and just over half have sought new suppliers.
The survey also showed that 28 percent have reduced some portion sizes, and the same percentage have changed some recipes to avoid high-cost ingredients.
NINETY-TWO PERCENT OF THE RESPONDENTS
…REPORTED THAT THE PRICE OF AVOCADOS FROM MEXICO IS UP THIS YEAR, AND 88 PERCEN T REPORTED THAT THE PRICE OF OTHER IMPORTED PRODUCE IS UP.
– el Restaurante reader survey, June 2025
One respondent is creatively cutting costs: “[We are] looking to buy leaner cuts of meat and using best techniques to give it a great flavor and texture. This is something that from a Latin culture we strive for — taking the unappealing and tougher cuts of meat and making a delicious meal,” the respondent wrote.
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EXPLORING ALTERNATIVES
Many restaurants are turning to domestic sources for ingredients that normally come from Mexico or elsewhere or are sourcing close substitutes. (Click here to read an el Restaurante article about local sourcing.) Tomatoes are one example.
“We are lucky that California domestically produces some of the finest tomato products in the world,” notes Jon Holt, global director of sales and marketing at The Neil Jones Food Company. “So, when it comes to choosing a high-quality product, choosing American-grown and processed tomatoes is not a sacrifice in quality. On the contrary, it supports our local farmers and processors which strengthens us as a country and exporter to other countries.”
Sandy Acosta, a supply chain and sourcing expert with a special interest in the Latin and Hispanic food category, suggests asking suppliers for replacement ingredients.
“A lot of broadline distributors, like Performance Food Group, have culinary consultants who can partner with restaurants to help rethink menus without losing the flavor or authenticity that guests expect,” Acosta says. “Let’s say Oaxaca cheese gets too expensive — the distributor might suggest a domestic mozzarella blend paired with a smoky salsa or some well-seasoned chorizo to keep that same richness. Or if tomatillos are tough to source, a green tomato salsa with serrano and lime can bring that same bold, tangy kick.”
Acosta offers suggestions for substituting avocados, chiles and limes, too:
• Avocados: During periods of high pricing, frozen or refrigerated avocado pulp can be a smart alternative to fresh fruit. Not only does it help control costs, but it also reduces prep time and labor associated with peeling and pitting.
• Chiles: When specific dried imports like guajillo or árbol are in short supply, chile pastes or prepared adobos offer both flavor and efficiency.
• Limes: If fresh limes are cost-prohibitive, domestic citrus like Meyer lemons can be a workable substitute. Vinegar-based marinades or pre-blended citrus flavor powders can also replicate the acidity needed for marinades and finishing touches.
While swapping ingredients is one way to temper the impact of escalating food prices, it isn’t the only way to realize savings, Acosta says.
“Sometimes the real opportunity is in the kitchen itself — tightening up prep routines, managing portions or reducing waste can make a big impact,” she concludes. “Often, it’s not about changing the dish, but how you get it to the plate.”
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WHO CAN PARTNER WITH RESTAURANTS TO HELP RETHINK MENUS WITHOUT LOSING THE FLAVOR OR AUTHENTICITY THAT GUESTS EXPECT …IF TOMATILLOS ARE TOUGH TO SOURCE, A GREEN TOMATO SALSA WITH SERRANO AND LIME CAN BRING THAT SAME BOLD, TANGY KICK.” – Sandy Acosta
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CHEF PEPE STEPENSKY
Porkyland, Margarita’s Kitchen & Cantina, and San Diego Burger Company
PEPE STEPENSKY AND HIS WIFE, Deborah Stepensky, own four restaurants in San Diego: two locations of Porkyland Mexican Grill, plus Margarita’s Kitchen & Cantina and San Diego Burger Company, the latter two long-time staples of the city’s Seaport Village.
How did Pepe — a self-described “Mexican Jewish vegetarian” — end up as a restaurateur, with one concept focused on pork carnitas and one on burgers?
Here, this entrepreneur shares the story that began when he arrived in the United States almost four decades ago.
1When you moved to San Diego from Mexico in 1986, you worked at your brother’s dry cleaning business until you heard that the San Diego Burger Company was for sale. What made you think you could succeed in restaurants despite having no experience in that field? When you move to a new country as an immigrant, you come ready to learn, to work hard, and to do whatever it takes — not just to get by, but to really “make it.” That was our mindset. There were no “what ifs,” just an opportunity that opened up — and we went for it.
Deborah is a fantastic cook, so I figured I’d learn the basics and then she could step in and make it even better. I went around to all the big-name burger franchises, sat there for hours, studying everything and picking out the best ideas from each one.
Then I reached out to a young guy who had worked with me before, Edgar Garcia. The three of us teamed up and created a new menu and a unique flavor. That was the beginning of a partnership that’s still going strong — 35 years later.
2
How long did you own San Diego Burger Company before you took over the Mexican restaurant next door? And how different was it to operate a family-style Mexican restaurant?
It was three years later. And it was a whole different story — a totally different animal! This concept needed more specific recipes, a full menu, and tons of prep from scratch:
PERFORMANCE IS EXPANDING IT ' S LATIN ROOTS
¡Adelante!™ means “to move forward”— and we do just that with a dynamic portfolio of Latin and Hispanic ingredients. Honoring tradition while embracing growth, ¡Adelante! complements our Contigo® line — empowering you to craft bold, authentic flavors that resonate with today’s consumers and help move your business forward.
“Branching out isn’t always the best way to grow… Especially in uncertain times, it’s often wiser to consolidate, focus, and double down on what makes you unique. Growth isn’t just about getting bigger — it’s about getting better.”
salsas, guacamole, marinades, rice, beans, you name it. And we had to pull it off in just 325 square feet, so making it all work in such a small space was a real challenge.
We decided to keep the existing menu but change the name from La Fresca to Margarita’s Kitchen and Cantina. With the same team, we made improvements to the food and added Margaritas to the mix.
We kept Armando and his wife Claudia, who had already been there for years working with the previous owners. They brought a lot of experience to the table, and once again, it turned into a great partnership —now going strong for 30 years!
3
After 15 years of running two restaurants, what made you decide you were up for the challenge of running yet another business when you bought Porkyland? Porkyland was originally owned by some friends of ours. Deborah used to help them out with the restaurant bookkeeping as a special favor to one of the owners, and I pitched in too — training one of their sons who was getting ready to take over the business. The only condition we asked for was that if he ever decided it wasn’t for him, we’d get the first right of refusal. And that’s exactly how we ended up buying the restaurant.
By then, we already had the experience, and Porkyland was — and still is — a landmark brand in San Diego. We couldn’t pass up the opportunity. We opened a second and
third location in the next few years, but we just have two at the moment, both in Carmel Valley in San Diego.
4
Times have changed since you started in the restaurant business. COVID upended the industry, and tariffs and immigration policies are beginning to wreak havoc. How are you coping?
Yes, the industry has changed a lot. COVID forced us to rethink everything. And now tariffs and immigration policies are adding new challenges — especially around staffing and costs.
We’ve adapted by simplifying our menus, working closely with trusted suppliers, and investing more in training and retaining our team. It’s all about staying flexible, being proactive, and focusing on what we can control. After decades in this business, we’ve learned to roll with the punches and keep moving forward.
5
What advice do you have for restaurant owners who are thinking of opening a new concept or a second location of their current operation?
Branching out isn’t always the best way to grow. After a lifetime in the restaurant world, I’ve learned that sometimes the smartest move is to reinvent yourself and invest in what you already have. Opening a new location can seem exciting, but it can also drain resources, cut into the profits of your original spot, and add more stress, more overhead, and more risk.
Especially in uncertain times, it’s often wiser to consolidate, focus, and double down on what makes you unique. Growth isn’t just about getting bigger — it’s about getting better.
Get More Advice from Pepe
Pepe Stepensky regularly taps his decades of experience to write insightful articles about improving restaurant operations. Click here to see a directory of his articles.
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Fabulous FUSION
GLOBAL INGREDIENTS AND CULINARY TRADITIONS COMBINE TO CREATE NEW TAKES ON ETHNIC
DISHES
SumoMaya's Pork Belly Pozole Ramen
| BY KATHLEEN FURORE
| At first glance, Amerikas might not seem an apt name for a restaurant that showcases what has been described as a daring, chef-driven menu that dances across continents, blending Latin roots with inventive influences from around the globe. Think Barbacoa, a lamb shank braised with guajillo and ancho peppers, served with mushroom risotto and pistachios; whole roasted Branzino served with Mexican fried rice, wild mushrooms cabbage, and serrano salsa in soy syrup; Chipotle Hummus served with queso fresco, sesame seeds and a chapati tortilla; and Burrata topped with caramelized habanero mezcal grapes, watercress, brioche, pepitas, and extra virgin olive oil.
But the way owner Chef Armando Gonzalez combines global ingredients with cooking techniques from a variety of cultures at his restaurant in Oak Park, Illinois, actually makes the name a fitting tribute to the variety of ethnic cuisines that comprise America’s culinary landscape.
As the restaurant’s website explains, “People from around the world came to make America to make it their home, bringing and sharing their native cultures, flavors and food. At Amerikas restaurant our mission is all about embracing all the flavors of our very melting pot called America.”
TELLING A STORY
While culinary sources like Chefs Resource describe fusion as a cuisine that combines the defining ingredients, flavor profiles, and cooking techniques from different culinary traditions, for Gonzalez, the term means so much more.
(continues on page 18)
“To me, ‘fusion’ isn’t just about combining flavors from different cultures, it’s about creating a dialogue between traditions. At Amerikas, fusion means honoring Latin culinary roots while inviting other global influences to join the conversation. It’s about balancing respect and creativity by blending spices, techniques, and ingredients in a way that feels both innovative and intentional, never forced. It’s about telling a story through food, one that feels familiar yet surprising.”
–
ARMANDO GONZALEZ
Amerikas' Barbacoa with Mushroom Risotto and Pistacchios
“To me, ‘fusion’ isn’t just about combining flavors from different cultures, it’s about creating a dialogue between traditions,” Gonzalez says. “At Amerikas, fusion means honoring Latin culinary roots while inviting other global influences to join the conversation. It’s about balancing respect and creativity by blending spices, techniques, and ingredients in a way that feels both innovative and intentional, never forced. It’s about telling a story through food, one that feels familiar yet surprising.”
With the myriad storytelling options available, how does the chef create Amerikas’ menu?
Gonzalez says he considers the countries and cultures that inspire each dish.
Off The Plancha's Carne Asada Yakisoba
“Amerikas is rooted in Latin America, but we don’t limit ourselves. When I created the Chipotle Hummus, for example, I was thinking about how Middle Eastern and Latin cuisines both use bold spices and earthy flavors. Chipotle adds that smoky depth we love, while still respecting the smooth, creamy base of traditional hummus,” he explains. The Burrata is a nod to Italy, but we pair it with flavors like tomatillo jam, or ají Amarillo, to bring a Latin twist. As for the Barbacoa risotto, it was about elevating a familiar Latin dish using a European technique — creamy, comforting, unexpected, yet grounded in tradition. The point is to create something that feels exciting, not confusing. Each dish has a
CAPTION
Amerikas' Chipotle Hummus
reason for being.”
And are there things a chef should not do when trying to create dishes with ingredients and techniques from different countries, too?
“Absolutely! Don’t fuse for the sake of fusing,” Gonzalez cautions. “If the combination doesn’t tell a story or feel harmonious, it will come off as gimmicky or disrespectful. It’s important to understand the roots of the dishes you’re blending. Study them, taste them, cook them traditionally first. Fusion should never mean dilution. The goal isn’t to water things down; it’s to build a bridge where cultures can meet, not clash.”
MANAGING THE CHALLENGES
The creative opportunities that come with crafting a menu of fusion dishes bring challenges, as well. Managing expectations is the biggest one Gonzalez faces.
“Many guests walk into a Latin restaurant expecting familiar comfort foods. When they see burrata, chipotle hummus, or risotto on the menu, it can catch them off guard,” he explains. “There’s an educational component we embrace, as we want guests to feel curious, not confused. Our goal is to create trust through flavor.
Tauro Cocina's Birria Pizza
Amerikas' Chef/Owner Armando Gonzalez
Cuisine Match-ups
There are myriad ways to create menus that fall into the “fusion” category — everything from adding a weekly special or an LTO to going all out with a very specific combination of cuisines.
These three restaurants take the latter approach with dishes that incorporate elements of Latin, Asian and Italian fare.
SUMOMAYA Mexican Asian Kitchen This restaurant in Scottsdale, Arizona features dishes that incorporate Asian flavors with culinary traditions of Mexico and essences of South America. Pork Belly Pozole Ramen with green broth and traditional Mexican garnishes (pictured on this issue’s cover and on page 16) and Pad Thai Pork “Al Pastor” made with grilled pineapple and chile-lime peanuts are two examples.
OFF THE PLANCHA Innovative, affordable Mexican/Japanese fusion cuisine is the specialty at this restaurant in San Diego, California, where diners can choose from three versions of a dish made with Yakisoba noodles, onions, bell peppers, lime crema, house sauce, and cotija: the Carne Asada Yakisoba, Chicken Adobado Yakisoba, and Vegetarian Yakisoba.
TAURO COCINA The extensive menu at this Mexican-Italian fusion restaurant in Milwaukee, Wisconsin features Italian staples, homemade pizza, and pasta made with authentic Mexican spices and ingredients. There’s the creative Poblano & Elote Pasta, Linguine al Poblano, Birria Pizza, and house-made bread served with a choice of roasted poblano pesto; espinaca y queso romano; or chipotle garbanzo spread.
Once people take that first bite and realize how thoughtfully the elements come together, that hesitation turns into excitement. But getting them to take that leap? That’s the challenge, and the opportunity.”
His advice for Mexican/Latin restaurants that want to experiment with dishes that incorporate more global flavors?
“Start with your roots. Know your traditions inside and out before you remix them. Respect is the foundation of successful fusion,” Gonzalez stresses. “From there, think about flavors that enhance rather than overshadow. You don’t need to reinvent every element, sometimes just one unexpected ingredient, technique, or garnish can elevate a dish. And lastly, taste constantly. Fusion only works when it’s balanced. Let flavor, not trends, be your guide.”
Epazote
HUMBLE HERB ENHANCES MEXICAN MENUS
| BY KATHLEEN FURORE AND GLEN AVIS | One word kept coming to mind when Simonne Carrasco and her husband, Chef Hugo Mendez, were deciding on a name for the restaurant they planned to open in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
“We chose the name Epazote because it represents everything we stand for — authenticity, tradition, and deep-rooted Mexican culinary heritage,” Carrasco explains. “Epazote is one of the most essential herbs in traditional Mexican cooking. It’s not just a trendy ingredient — it’s been used for generations in home kitchens across Mexico to bring out bold, comforting flavors.”
It is that commitment to preserving tradition that defines the menu at this family-owned Mexican restaurant that debuted in April 2023.
“Our menu reflects the spirit of home-cooked meals, rooted in culture and family recipes,” Carrasco says. “Chef Hugo adds his culinary expertise and vibrant presentation to every dish, but we always stay true to the classics.”
About the Herb
The epazote plant grows up to 4 feet high and has dark green jagged leaves and flowers with thousands of tiny seeds. The plant is native to China, Pakistan, Russia, Turkestan, and Kyrgyzstan and is now grown throughout the world. Depending on location, it is called stinky sweat, pazote, ipasote, apazote, hierba hedionda, pazoli, paico, goosefoot, skunk weed, or wormseed. It is readily found in the wild, especially along stream beds. It is also easily cultivated from wild seeds in moist soil.
ON THE MENU
While epazote is an integral ingredient in Mexican cuisine, many people outside of the culinary universe don’t know much (if anything) about the herb — even though it can significantly and deliciously alter the taste of popular items on restaurant menus.
“Epazote has a very unique, distinct and bold flavor that is hard to compare to any single herb. It is considered pungent and earthy,” says Chef Hugo, who notes that the herb has been used since the time of the Aztecs. “It cuts through rich dishes like beans and quesadillas. It’s not subtle, but it brings unique balance and depth that isn’t similar to anything else.”
The fact that fresh epazote can be hard to find doesn’t faze this chef, who uses the fresh herb to flavor the restaurant’s sopa de tortilla and esquites
(continued on page 25)
Chef Hugo Mendez and his restaurant-grown epazote
“Since fresh epazote is scarce, we grow it ourselves to ensure it’s always fresh and authentic as possible,” he says. “We grow it at the restaurant to give our dishes that real bold flavor I believe you just can’t get from the dried version. Fresh is the only way to capture the earthy, funky kick that makes traditional Mexican dishes truly authentic.”
Oaxaca-inspired El Epazote Cocina Regional in Madera, California is another restaurant that embraces its namesake herb, not only in the kitchen but also prominently on its home page.
“Epazote — an extraordinary aromatic herb –was always present in the home cooked meals prepared by our mothers in Oaxaca, Mexico,” the website says. “Being a versatile herb, we would
Recipes with Epazote
Looking for recipes that include epazote? Here are three from el Restaurante’s archives:
• ELOTES Recipe created by Chef Manny Barella for Bellota, Denver*
• TORTILLAS DE HUAZONTLE
Recipe created by Chef Rafael Rios, Yeyo’s El Alma de Mexico in Rogers, Arizona
• EPAZOTE AND HOJA Santa Ice Cream
Recipe created by Chef German Garcia Tamez, executive chef of the Monterrey campus of the Universidad del Valle de Mexico (UVM); courtesy of Kendall College, Chicago
*Now located in Boulder, Colorado; Denver location now closed
“Epazote is one of the most essential herbs in traditional Mexican cooking. It’s not just a trendy ingredient — it’s been used for generations in home kitchens across Mexico to bring out bold, comforting flavors.” – SIMONNE CARRASCO, Epazote
enjoy epazote through the change of seasons with quesadillas and squash flowers, empanadas in green sauce, seafood soup, and yellow mole. And we’re honored and proud to bring epazote to you throughout our delicious menu!”
That delicious menu features epazoteenhanced dishes including the Empanada de Amarillo (a homemade corn tortilla filled with shredded chicken, mole amarillo, Oaxacan cheese [quesillo], and epazote) and the Quesadilla Oaxaqueña (a homemade corn tortilla filled with Oaxaca cheese and a choice of pumpkin flower [seasonal], huitlacoche-corn truffle, or mushrooms, then topped with epazote and salsa verde).
Epazote’s Sopa de Tortilla
Simonne Carrasco and Chef Hugo Mendez
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“What I have learned is that you’re bringing a chef to cook outside of his world, so you need to be able to adapt yours to his as much as possible.”
Chef Roberto Alcocer and the GUEST CHEF EXPERIENCE
EDITOR’S NOTE: Chef Roberto Alcocer has been creating Baja-inspired cuisine for more than a quarter century. He helms two restaurants, Malva in Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico; and Valle in Oceanside, California. Valle earned a Michelin star in 2023, two years after opening. Alcocer believes that chefs can learn from each other, and he facilitates that learning by regularly inviting chefs to cook alongside him in his kitchen. In turn, he accepts invitations to be a guest chef at other restaurants. In this interview with el Restaurante Publisher Ed Avis, he explains his philosophy behind the guest chef concept.
ED AVIS: Let me begin with a general question: Why do you feel a guest chef program is valuable?
ROBERTO ALCOCER: For me, doing this is a way to offer to our guests an experience out of the box, bringing a chef that in order to try his food otherwise, you would have to go to his restaurant, right? And of course, for the restaurant, it’s good because you bring back a guest that might not be coming until the next season to try the next menu.
The other thing for me is that I always invite chefs that I admire, so that I can establish a relationship with them. And my cooks can learn something. I remember when I brought a chef from the southeast of Mexico where the recipes, the methods, the techniques, the ingredients are so different from the rest of Mexico. So, bringing this chef to cook this menu, it was so eye opening, especially for the cooks from the United States.
Sometimes these collaborations help my staff connect with a chef they wouldn’t otherwise know. I have cooks that now work for some of them because they met there. It helps my staff, it helps the chefs and it makes the world a better place because at the end, the sun comes out for everybody.
AVIS: From a logistics perspective, how does a guest chef program work?
ALCOCER: The logistics work in different ways, depending on my connection with the chef. Normally, when I invite a chef, I ask them for their dishes, so then I can adapt my dishes and we can create a menu that is in harmony. I do that because I want
Chef Roberto Alcocer
GATEWAY
LONG BEACH CONVENTION CENTER
LONG BEACH, CA USA
“For me, doing this is a way to offer to our guests an experience out of the box, bringing a chef that in order to try his food otherwise, you would have to go to his restaurant, right? And of course, for the restaurant, it’s good because you bring back a guest that might not be coming until the next season to try the next menu.”
them to shine; I allow them to take the first step and send the dishes [they plan to prepare]. Then I can make the rest of the menu.
If there’s more than one guest chef involved, then it’s fewer dishes [for] each [chef]. For example, for my anniversary [dinner that celebrates the restaurant’s opening], when I invite two chefs, instead of three dishes each, we each do two dishes. And when I make a dinner in December, [which we call] 12 Chefs Before Christmas, that is six chefs one night and six chefs the second night. Then it’s just one dish for every chef.
Nowadays, because prep takes a longer time, some chefs fly with their sauces or their long-prep-time ingredients already. Then we source the rest of the ingredients.
For example, I’m going to Cancun next week [to be a guest chef], and I cannot travel with food because I’m flying from the U.S. So, I sent a list of ingredients and a list of preps with recipes and even videos of how I do them, so they can help me to prep in advance. And we are in constant communication with the kitchen if they have any questions or whatever. So, when we arrive, most of our prep is ready.
When I bring a chef, of course I have them for dinner in the restaurant with my regular menu, because I also want to show them what I’m doing. But I also invite them for dinner or lunch, or to have a drink, somewhere else. I have other nice restaurants close to me that I can take them to. And while we’re
prepping, I bring some food also from outside so they can taste a little bit of what’s happening around the restaurant.
AVIS: Is there a financial component? Do you pay them?
ALCOCER: We pay for everything, including expenses, but I don’t pay a fee because normally I bring in chefs that I know personally. But we treat them well. Like if we fly somebody in, we fly them on business. We know it’s like a little vacation for them. And it’s reciprocal. If they invite me, I will go, anytime.
AVIS: Which do you enjoy most, being the host chef in your own kitchen, or being a visiting chef in someone else’s kitchen?
ALCOCER: I enjoy both. I enjoy when I’m a host and the chef that I am inviting is a responsible chef and sends everything on time. I don’t enjoy it sometimes when I invite somebody and he is not spending time on the recipes or ingredients because it’s kind of like having to be babysitting. I know chefs are really busy, but come on, if you accept an invitation, be formal. So, I try to be as formal as I would like the chefs to be when I receive an invitation. I am always on time with everything.
AVIS: Besides that, what else makes a guest chef experience successful?
ALCOCER: What I have learned is that you’re bringing a chef to cook outside of his world, so you need to be able to adapt yours to his as much as possible. For example, don’t bring a chef that has a small restaurant [and ask him] to cook for 100 people, you know? Because when they are used to running restaurants for 30 covers or 50 covers, and then you make this large event, it’s not going be the kind of experience that you would like to offer.
There is a lot of this conversation with the guest chef so that I know how or what those chefs want to put out there. I have done banquet size service because the chef feels comfortable plating everybody at the same time, and in other cases we have done a stagger service because the plating will take time. It’s kind of like adjusting the service to every chef to make them shine. I want them to present [an experience that’s] as close as possible to what they will be doing at their
(continued on page 33)
Chefs Miguel Bahena of Madre and Omar Valenzuela of Avia (both in Ensenada) prepare dishes for the Tres Amigos Collaboration Dinner at Valle Oceanside.
own restaurant, so if my guests go and visit them in their restaurant, they have the same experience.
AVIS: When you invite a chef, do they always say yes?
ALCOCER: No, it depends on the situation and how much I know the chef. Sometimes I invite chefs that I would love to cook with, but there’s no relationship, and they can even ghost me. I don’t think it’s personal. Sometimes others are like, “You know what? I would love to, but I can’t in these moments of my life.” And sometimes [there are other reasons]. For example, one chef told me that he doesn’t know how these things work. He was asking, “Maybe we should get to know each other and maybe we should talk,” like [going on] dates before. It was making the situation so complicated. I was like, “It’s just a dinner, but OK.” I get it. I understand sometimes people are afraid to cook outside of the kitchen.
AVIS: Have some of the chefs you’ve cooked with become good friends?
ALCOCER: Yeah, most of them. You know, I’m bringing them to my house. Something we have in Mexico is that we’re good with hospitality. When they arrive, I pick them up at the airport and take them to the hotel, and we have an amenity there for them. My staff researches what they like. I remember when we got Chef Val Cantu, he came with the kids. We had the beach right in front of the hotel, so we put some toys for the beach for the kids [in the room] and for him some different types of craft beer. It’s treating them like I would like to be treated, you know? And of course [when they get to the restaurant], I welcome them and have a jacket with their name on it and a special gift. So, I make them happy because at the end, they’re taking the time to come and cook here. That’s something I appreciate.
Great tortillas start wi�
CORN, SOUL, AND FIRE:
MEXICAN WHISKEY IS TRENDING
| BY ALFREDO ESPINOLA | Few people think of whiskey when they think of spirits from Mexico, but distillers in the land of tequila and mezcal are now producing whiskey of high enough quality that bartenders at Mexican restaurants in the United States are adding it to their cocktails.
Mexican whiskey is following the path blazed by Mexican wine, which is featured on the menus of many fine Mexican restaurants because it naturally pairs well with quality Mexican cuisine.
“Mexican whiskey is not about imitation, but about reinterpreting the genre with its own voice,” says Manuel Negrete, an internationally recognized Mexican sommelier. “It has a young
“Mexican whiskey is not about imitation, but about reinterpreting the genre with its own voice. It has a young but very honest character, which makes it fascinating for those seeking new experiences.”
— MEXICAN SOMMELIER MANUEL NEGRETE
but very honest character, which makes it fascinating for those seeking new experiences.”
THE SPIRIT OF CORN
Whiskey can be made from a variety of grains, but the Mexican whiskeys that are capturing attention are made primarily with corn, specifically native corn. In ancient plots of land in the Sierra Mixteca, the Chinantla, or on the Oaxacan coast, indigenous communities cultivate ancestral corn varieties such as chalqueño, olotillo, bolita, and tepecintle. There is no trace of chemicals or genetically modified seeds here.
The production process is essential, too. While many whiskey makers use distillation columns, in Mexico they work with stills, a traditional technique that preserves character, texture, and flavor. Each batch is small, unique, with spontaneous fermentation, rainwater, and solar energy as part of the ritual.
One pioneer in Mexican whiskey is Douglas French, who was already well known in the world of mezcal for his brand Scorpion Mezcal, which he has been crafting for three decades. Eleven years ago, this master distiller decided to look toward a new horizon.
“Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for over 7,000 years,” French explains. “Its flavor is complex, deep, and changes with the color of the grain. Why not explore that in a whiskey?”
The result was Sierra Norte Whiskey, which is made with native Oaxacan corn. Today there are six expressions, all based on a single variety of grain: white, yellow, red, black, purple, and a blend called rainbow, which brings together hundreds of shades and flavors.
Each variety contains 85 percent corn and 15 percent malted barley. No additives. No artificial flavors.
“Just two ingredients. And a lot of patience,” French laughs.
Sierra Norte Whiskey is made with native Oaxacan corn.
The whiskey is aged for two to three years in French oak barrels, which impart smooth, rounded, and slightly vanilla notes. The climate of Oaxaca, with its extreme contrasts between hot days and cold nights, causes a molecular dance between the barrel and the liquid that intensifies the flavors, naturally shortening the years of aging without losing complexity.
At international fairs, the reactions are ones of surprise and fascination. In 2018, Whisky Advocate included Sierra Norte yellow corn whiskey among the 20 best whiskeys in the world, awarding it 90 points. It has also received gold medals at the WSWA (Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America) and silver in competitions in San Francisco and Brooklyn.
Another leader in Mexican whiskey is Maíz Nation. This distiller was founded by Jonathan Barbieri in 2013 as a solution to a concern: how to protect native corn from the threats of genetically modified organisms while also revaluing it? First, he made mezcal, then whiskey. He liked the idea of creating a spirit from
“Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for over 7,000 years. Its flavor is complex, deep, and changes with the color of the grain. Why not explore that in a whiskey?” — DOUGLAS FRENCH
ancestral Oaxacan corn, grown by peasant families with whom he has forged ties of collaboration, fair trade, and mutual learning.
“We are only 30 kilometers from the point of origin of corn on the planet, and no one had ever made whiskey with these grains,” says Jonathan Barbieri. “We wanted to create a worldclass product that would also help preserve and add value to these unique seeds.”
Maíz Nation does not mass-produce whiskey. Each bottle is the result of a completely traceable artisanal process that begins on plots of land that have never been touched by chemicals. The portfolio includes a white whiskey that has won over palates with its purity and versatility in cocktails. The company also offers versions aged in deeply charred American oak barrels, which add notes of vanilla, caramel, green fruits, and spices.
Maíz Nation also produces a blended whiskey made from corn, pelón wheat, and rye, called “Selección Barbieri,” which offers fruity and spicy tones, as well as a rye whiskey, using a grain that dominated the North American scene before the rise of bourbon. Today, rye is experiencing a renaissance, and in its Mexican version it takes on fresh and spicy nuances thanks to the altitudes and soils of Oaxaca.
Maíz Nation also has the distinction of producing the first Mexican single malt whiskey, made with malted barley roasted on a comal with solar energy. Its flavor is reminiscent of dark chocolate, black tea, and dark fruits.
Other leading brands of Mexican whiskey are Abasolo and Casa Lumbre.
A STORY THAT IS JUST BEGINNING
In 2019, Mexico had only three recognized commercial brands of craft whiskey. By 2024, there were 18 active projects, with volumes that, while still modest compared to tequila or mezcal, show steady growth of 25 percent per year, according to data from the Association of Independent Distillers of Mexico (ADIMEX).
ADIMEX reports that domestic whisky production in 2024 was approximately 280,000 liters, in contrast to more than 500 million liters of tequila. However, its impact on the gastronomic sector has been disproportionate to its volume. Highend restaurants, signature bars, and boutique hotels already include it as part of their distinctive beverage offerings.
The key to continued growth, according to the pioneers, is to maintain quality standards and respect for the origin.
Says Barbieri: “It’s not enough for it to be Mexican, it has to be extraordinary.”
Maíz Nation toasts malted barley in a solar-powered skillet to produce its single malt whiskey.
Sunsof Empanadas. Serve empanadas without the labor and consistency challenges with these par-baked empanadas that come in 8 great varieties — all easy to prepare in 5 to 12 minutes. Options include Beef Picadillo, Chicken, Ham & Cheese, Spinach & Cheese, Chicken Chili Verde, Breakfast (eggs, potatoes and sausage), Hazelnut Spread & Cocoa, and Caramel Apple. 305-691-1875; info@sunsof.com; sunsof.com
3 Cricketeers Crickets. 3 Cricketeers offers roasted crickets that make an excellent garnish for salads and tacos; also available in powder form. Used by chefs including James Beard Award-nominated Chef Gustavo Romero of Oro by Nixta. 612-547-8643; 3cricketeers.com
De La Calle! Tepache. De La Calle has transformed the ancient Mexican beverage called Tepache into a modern, certified organic, lower-sugar Mexican soda with 60 calories or less per serving. Available in Pineapple Spice, Grapefruit Lime, Mango Chili, Prickly Pear, Tropical Ponche, Hibiscus Citrus, Tamarind Citrus, Cactus, and Watermelon Jalapeño. delacalle.mx
Contigo® Soybean Clear Fry Oil. This go-to frying oil for Latin Kitchens for pan frying, deep frying, and saute ing has a high smoke point (450°F / 232°C) that makes it ideal for frying tortilla chips and searing tacos. Extracted from U.S.-grown soybeans, it delivers a neutral flavor that enhances the natural taste of your dishes without overpowering them. Gluten-free, cholesterol-free, Kosher-certified and vegan. Exclusively distributed by Performance Foodservice. performancefoodservice.com
Aguas Frescas de México. Make authentic, refreshing beverages in less than 5 minutes with these natural fruit concentrates. Options include premium milk-based Creamy Aguas Frescas in flavors including Horchata, Strawberry Cream, Cantaloupe Milk, and Coconut Milk and Tropical Aguas Frescas in Watermelon, Pineapple, Mango, Tamarind, Cucumber, and Hibiscus (Jamaica) and more. Preparation time is less than 5 minutes. Equipment also available. 214-664-6380; contact@aguasfrescasdemexico.com; aguasfrescasdemexico.com
Tabañero Bloody Mary Mix. The flavor of this bold, premium hot sauce brand is now available in a cocktail mix! Made with 100% all-natural, gluten-free, and kosher ingredients including tomato puree, water, horseradish, Tabañero Original, celery salt, vinegar, molasses, lemon juice, soybean oil, black pepper, celery seed, smoked paprika, and mustard powder. 888.443.4224; info@tabanero.com; tabanero.com
Natavo Avocado. This non-browning frozen avocado is now available in quarter-cut Avocado Wedges, and 8mm Avocado Slices for sushi and high-precision applications. Both use the NatavoTM process that deactivates the browning enzyme without chemicals, preservatives or additives so avocados stay fresh, green and vibrant for up to 10 days after thawing (even once packaging is opened). Ready to use — no peeling, pitting or slicing. Chunks and diced formats also available. enquiries@natavoavocado.com; natavoavocado.com
CARLOS GARZA, Co-owner & Chef Dell Rooster
MORE THAN 20 YEARS AGO , Miguel Tenesaca immigrated from Ecuador to Chicago’s West Town neighborhood, beginning a culinary journey that has taken him from restaurant kitchens throughout the city to his current role: co-owner of Dell Rooster, the Latin fusion restaurant he opened with Chef Carlos Garza in 2021 in the same neighborhood he first called home.
Tenesaca’s desire to honor his Latin roots is evident in the restaurant’s name (in Latin culture, a rooster symbolizes faith, strength, hope, unity, life, the beginning of a new day) and in the menu inspired by ingredients from all 27 Latin American countries — North and South America, as well as the Caribbean.
Examples include Arepa De Chocla (Colombian-style arepas), Caribbean Empanadas, Guanatos Style Torta Ahogada, Short Rib Barbacoa, Milanesa a Caballo (Uruguay style breaded chicken), Venezuelan Cachapa (sweet corn and cheese, sofrito, seasonal vegetables, aji sauce), and Rabo Encendido — a Dell Rooster favorite.
According to Garza, that dish became a guest favorite even before it became a chef favorite thanks to the bold flavors and one main ingredient: oxtail.
“We turned that humble ingredient into a flavorful dish,” Garza explains. “We cooked it for many hours in low heat with spices, tomato, herbs, chiles, until it was falling off the bone. We then presented the dish with sweet plantains, pickled onions, aioli, and fresh cheese, which brings a complex explosion of flavors for every palate, from savory and sweet, to sour, spicy, and salty.”
Here, Tenesaca and Garza share the recipe with el Restaurante:
Dell Rooster’s Rabo Encendido
Makes 5 to 10 servings (depending on how plated)
5 oxtail
1 qt. chicken broth
Pasilla peppers, 5 each
Guajillo peppers, 5 each
Ancho peppers, 5 each
Chipotle peppers, 5 each
2 c. tomato juice
2 c. tomato purée
1 c. garlic cloves
¼ c. ancho powder
2 T. dried oregano
2 T. cumin
2 c. red bell peppers
2 c. green bell peppers
3 c. red onion
1 c. red wine
Season oxtail with salt and pepper, then sear the oxtail on a sauté pan on high heat. Once oxtail is seared, place it in a saucepan, add chicken stock, and let sit to cook for 2.5 to 3 hours.
Soak all of the dried peppers (pasilla, guajillo, ancho, chipotle) in boiling water for 15 minutes. Put soaked peppers into a blender and turn the mixture into a smooth purée.
In a separate blender, combine tomato juice, tomato purée, garlic, and spices (ancho powder, dried oregano, cumin).
Once the oxtail is done, pull the meat off the bones.
In a medium-size sauté pan, sauté bell peppers and onions, then add the pepper purée, tomato purée, and red wine, and season with salt and pepper.
Add the oxtail and simmer all together for 3 minutes on low heat. Enjoy!
