JURA BERNOIS
ANABAPTIST TRAIL JOURNEY DESCRIPTION
WELCOME TO THE ANABAPTIST TRAIL Immerse yourself in the turbulent 400-year history of the Anabaptists in the Bernese Jura on this two-day hike. It is a tale of persecution and escape but also of pioneering spirit and successful integration. During the two-day hike, you will be in the Regional Park Chasseral, a cultural and natural landscape of austere beauty. On the Anabaptist Trail, you will travel through nature and back in time whilst simultaneously enjoying the tourist comforts of the modern era. We wish you an exciting and eventful hike !
MORE INFORMATION
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Regional Park Chasseral info@parcchasseral.ch www.parcchasseral.ch
André Bandelier (editor): Théophile-Rémy Frêne. Journal de ma vie. 5 vol. Bienne 1993–1994. Thibaut Kaeser, Michel Ummel et al.: Les mennonites des hauteurs jurassiennes. Intervalles, no 82 hiver 2008. Bienne.
Swiss Mennonite Conference Secretary’s Office | Bourg-Dessous 38 | 2416 Les Brenets +41 (0)32 504 29 17 | info@menno.ch | www.menno.ch
Catherine Paysan: Dame suisse sur un canapé de reps vert. Paris 1981.
ViaStoria Foundation of Transport History www.itineraires-culturels.ch
Markus Rediger, Erwin Röthlisberger (editor): Konferenz der Mennoniten der Schweiz. Langnau i. E. 2007. Katharina Zimmermann: Die Furgge. Oberhofen 2001. Pierre Zürcher: Die Armenpflege der ersten Täufergemeinden im Jura. Tramelan (with the author) 2010.
JURA & THREE-LAKES
Pierre Zürcher: Die Täuferbrücke am Chasseral − « Pont d’une montagne à l‘autre ». In: Wege und Geschichte, 2006/1.
The destination of Jura & Three-Lakes is a region which impresses people with its diverse landscapes, unspoilt nature and nature reserves, but also its history and urban development. This multi-faceted region’s fascinating treasures are just waiting to be discovered.
R
ViaStoria – Zentrum für Verkehrsgeschichte. Bern. Lydia et Pierre Zürcher: 100 Jahre Kapelle Jeanguisboden. Tramelan (with the author) 2000.
SOLOTHURN
FILM
BASEL
Peter von Gunten: Im Leben und über das Leben hinaus. Bern 2005.
ZÜRICH
BERN
DELÉMONT
GENÈVE
MOUTIER
SAIGNELÉGIER
SOLOTHURN BIEL/BIENNE LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS BASEL
Topographic maps as a reference Swisstopo hiking map SAW 1:50 000: Vallon de St-Imier 232 T or the special edition Jura bernois – Seeland 5026 T Swisstopo, map of Switzerland 1:25000: Chasseral 1125
ZÜRICH
NEUCHÂTEL BERN
MURTEN/MORAT GENÈVE
YVERDON-LES-BAINS
www.j3l.ch 2
Edition © ViaStoria – Foundation of Transport History, Bern – Regional Park Chasseral, Saint-Imier Texts Emmanuel Contesse, Nicolas Petitat, Guy Schneider, Michel Ummel, Viviane Vienat and Rémy Wenger Photos Guy Schneider ©ViaStoria, Cornel Doswald ©ViaStoria, Sonnenberg Anabaptist Congregation, Fritz Tschanz, Pierre Zürcher and Daniel Geiser Map Parc régional Chasseral © abeguin.ch Cover picture Anabaptist Bridge with restored bridgehead and new footbridge
SWISS FOUNDATION FOR LANDSCAPE CONSERVATION (SL)
Since being founded in 1970 as an independent organisation, SL has pursued purely non-material objectives and has been involved on a local, regional and federal level in promoting the conservation and sustainable development of our landscapes. It engages in public relations and lobbying to draw attention to issues relating to landscape conservation. It seeks out landscape-related and socially relevant topics, puts forward innovative solutions for discussion and makes concrete proposals on a parliamentary level. It also offers advice on projects and political processes. Experience and expertise, extensive area knowledge and a valuable network ensure SL’s work is of the highest quality. In its capacity as the landscape’s «lawyer», SL calls for a reduction in the high level of land use or better enforcement of environmental and planning laws, for example. If need be, SL will appeal against a particular project and in so doing give the landscape a voice. SL also makes use of its experience in project work in exemplary fashion and bands together with local initiators to support numerous concrete projects on site. SL is financed by members’ donations and contributions. It has been awarded the ZEWO quality seal.
SL AND THE “CHEMIN DES ANABAPTISTES”
SL is a member of the pilot group for the Chemin des Anabaptistes project and is involved in planning and financing the associated measures for improving the landscape. These include planting avenues, revitalising hedges, hedgerows and standard tree orchards, but also maintaining and repairing defiles and dry stone walls. The Chemin des Anabaptistes transverses a typical scattered settlement landscape, with the individual farms being connected by trails which go through a mosaic of forests, tree-covered pastures and meadows. A network of walls, hedges and tree rows lines the trail. Livestock trails and typical pasture areas connect the Vallon de Saint-Imier to the summer grazing grounds on both hillsides. This is how the livestock used to be able to be quickly and easily driven from the farms to the higher-lying grazing areas and back. www.sl-fp.ch
Repaired, typical dry stone wall 300 metres south of the Anabaptist Bridge.
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HISTORY OF THE ANABAPTISTS When you approach the Jura Mountains at Corgémont, Sonceboz and Tavannes, there are no signs of any settlement. Densely wooded areas and wooded pastures dominate the landscape. And yet: this region has been home to Anabaptists since the 16th century. They initially came in small groups before settling here on a larger scale at the beginning of the 18th century. But who are they? Why did they once find refuge within the territory of the PrinceBishopric of Basel where they remain to this day? The Chemin des Anabaptistes takes hikers on a journey back in time.
not born as political citizens and Christians at the same time. These Reformers believed that you became a Christian by consciously and voluntarily making a personal decision. This view contradicted the commonly held belief at that time that worldly power and religion were inseparably linked to each other: there should be a strict separation of church and state based on the model of early Christian congregations.
PERSECUTION AND EXECUTIONS
In 1525 in Zurich, there was a permanent breakdown in relations between the Reformers and the so-called Anabaptists, with the latter favouring adult baptisms (the Greek prefix ana- means “again”). In places where Anabaptist groups were subsequently established alongside the new Reform congregations, the former were very quickly persecuted and hunted down, both in Switzerland and the rest of Europe. Numerous Anabaptists were executed due to their convictions. In spite of this, they never defended themselves by force of arms. When a splinter group of Anabaptists wanted to make a new Jerusalem out of the Westphalian town of Münster in 1534/35, the rebellion was brutally put down. Subsequently, the Dutchman Menno Simons (1496–1561) formed a politically moderate and peaceful group of Anabaptists who were called Mennonites.
ARRIVAL ON THE TERRITORY OF THE FORMER PRINCE-BISHOPRIC OF BASEL
Hay harvest at Jean Gui which has been the Anabaptists’ centre for centuries on Mt. Sonnenberg; picture taken in about 1910.
TIME OF UPHEAVAL
The Reformation in the 16th century took place at a time of great upheaval. America had only just been discovered (1492) and the world view was changing at a tremendous speed. Influenced by the traders returning home from Greece and the Orient, scholars rediscovered Greek and Latin antiquity, their languages and advanced civilisations. Letterpress printing flourished in the 16th century and the languages of the inhabitants gained ground on Latin. The bible was translated from the handed down Hebrew and Greek texts. It was in light of this upheaval that the principles of the faith were discussed again and also called into question.
RADICAL REFORMS
Numerous religious movements were established during this period. Various Reformers were active in the different cities. The movement led by Ulrich Zwingli became radicalised in Zurich due to the actions of men like Konrad Grebel, Felix Mantz and Georg Blaurock. They not only criticised the pictures, mass and the Eucharist, but also baptism. Newborns should no longer be automatically baptised, because there was a new view that people were 4
Expulsion orders were issued against Anabaptists on a daily basis, and they were forced to flee. They initially found refuge in Emmental, amongst other places. The Bernese authorities were faced with an increasing number of Anabaptists and were suspicious of the local population supporting them. In the mid-17th century, a type of “Anabaptist tribunal” was established and “Anabaptist hunters” were employed. An order dating back to 1714 states how much money anyone who captured a leading member of the Anabaptists would be paid (100 thalers). The reward for a deacon was 50 thalers, a man 30 thalers and a woman 15 thalers. The Anabaptists were forced to leave the Emmental again. They fled to the Jura, Elsass, Rheinland-Pfalz, Holland and even North America, among other places. Many found refuge in the former Prince-Bishopric of Basel in the Swiss Jura region where they built a new life for themselves. The historic relationship between the Prince-Bishopric and the Anabaptists has not yet been completely clarified. There were political, economic and religious interests to consider.
FROM A FIGHT FOR SURVIVAL TO INTEGRATION
In Jura, Anabaptist families were mainly tenants on agricultural plots. They also worked in skilled trade as weavers, blacksmiths, wainwrights, bookbinders and rake makers. There was great solidarity among Anabaptists. For instance, they maintained a fund for the poor. In many ways, the Anabaptists were forced to live on the fringes of society in the Jura Mountains. However, after 250 years they finally settled in the surrounding villages and integrated into village life.
dings. Village inhabitants repeatedly demanded that the princebishop expel the refugees, because they were allegedly stealing jobs from the poor and generating extra income for land owners through their work. The situation gradually eased. The Anabaptists were increasingly able to practice their religion openly and build chapels and schools. This was also the case in Jean Gui where a chapel was built in 1900. There was a school on the ground floor until the canton constructed a public school in the 1970s. The architectural style of the chapel with the sermon hall on the first floor is simple and functional. Similar buildings were built elsewhere in the Jura region, for example in Moron, Les Mottes and La Chaux-d’Abel.
VISIT TO THE ANABAPTIST ARCHIVE
A small room in the basement of the Jean Gui Chapel houses the archive of the Swiss Mennonite Conference. Important documents are stored here which help to trace the history of the Anabaptists, the Mennonites and the Amish (from 1693) from the 16th century. The items on display include a Communion cup – according to Anabaptist tradition, it is neither made of gold nor of silver, but rather it is carved out of simple wood.
A family of Anabaptists on a Sunday excursion in a horse-drawn carriage in about 1935. One section of the Chemin des Anabaptistes can still be completed by horse-drawn carriage today (see page 10).
LE JEAN GUI : CHAPEL AND ANABAPTIST ARCHIVE
Jean Gui on the Montagne du Droit above Corgémont, Sonceboz-Sombeval and Tavannes represents a typical place where Anabaptists settled. On the small sunny plateau there are a traditional, sizeable farm as well as a large building which serves as a church and houses the archive of the Swiss Mennonite Conference.
THREE KEYS TO SURVIVAL : FARM, CHAPEL, SCHOOL
The Anabaptists endeavoured to provide for their own material needs, to be able to practice their religion in peace and to teach their children to read the bible. These three basic elements of Anabaptists’ lives – with material, spiritual and educational objectives – were often combined under one roof. The families supported each other. Family gatherings took place every second Sunday. The local population was worried because the Anabaptists were never seen in the village’s churches for baptisms or wed-
In the «Anabaptist Ordinance» of 1707, the Anabaptists are referred to as «disobedient, seductive and unruly people».
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THE ANABAPTISTS TODAY Following the arrival of numerous Anabaptists in the 18th century in the Jura Mountains, they lived self-sufficiently to a great extent. Much has changed since then. It has been a long time since men had long beards and women wore their hair in a bun and long skirts. Nowadays, Anabaptists don’t look any different to the local population.
NEW FORMS OF AN OLD RELIGION
Although farming still plays an important role in Anabaptists’ lives, today they are involved in all areas of socio-economic life and hold political offices. Dozens of German-speaking Anabaptist schools have been closed. Only a few have survived. They are now public and French-speaking. In addition to the chapels, former food shops, companies and other buildings serve as places of worship in the villages. Schoolchildren are mostly taught in French, but bilingualism is still considered an advantage. Women now hold the same positions as men in the Anabaptist congregations. Due to the Anabaptists’ pacifist beliefs, civilian service (which was introduced in 1996) presents a welcome alternative to refusing to do military service. Commitment to peace based on Christian princi-
ples is still a major objective for Anabaptists in all areas of their lives. Due to their past experiences as “refugees”, they are sensitive to all humanitarian issues, such as agreeing to take in foreigners. Interest in the Anabaptist religious minority is not waning, as shown in numerous reports, photographs, novels, radio and television programmes, sociological and linguistic studies (see the bibliography on page 2).
ANABAPTIST CONGREGATIONS
Today, the Anabaptists have 2,400 members in 14 congregations in Switzerland and 1.6 million members in more than 70 countries on all continents. They try to practise their religion in harmony with the other Christian churches and show respect for other religions and schools of thought.
Farming, which used to be widespread in the Anabaptists’ regions of origin, is also carried out in the inhospitable Jura Mountains.
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Genève
MOUTIER SAIGNELÉGIER SOLOTHURN BIEL/BIENNE
LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS
MAP: ANABAPTIST TRAIL
NEUCHÂTEL
MURTEN/MORAT
YVERDON-LES-BAINS
Le Jean Brenin 1106 m Saint-Imier
Cormoret
Villeret
Archives du Jean Guy Täuferarchiv Tavannes 754 m Citerne Zisterne Le Vion
Cortébert
Courtelary
La Chaux-de-Fonds
701 m
Pierre Pertuis 827 m
Corgémont
Maison du Doyen Morel Haus des Dekans Morel 660 m Creux de Glace Mét. de Meuringue
Prés de Cortébert
La Cuisinière
Mét. Petite Douanne 1300 m
SoncebozSombeval 653m
Bienne
Pont des Anabaptistes Täuferbrücke
Chasseral
1607.4m
Nods 885 m Neuchâtel
Bienne
LEGEND Anabaptist Trail ViaJura Horse-drawn carriage Railway/bus Catering Accommodation Sight Panorama
0
1
Anabaptistes desTrail Chemin Anabaptist ViaJura ViaJura Accès attelé carriage Char Horse-drawn de fer/bus Chemin Railway/bus
2 km
Anfahrt
Carte, source: Office fédéral de topographie (5704002947) + abeguin.ch
Légende
CODE OF CONDUCT des Anabaptistes Chemin
Legende
DEUTSCHLAND
Täuferweg Basel ViaJura ViaJura Restauration Pferdewagen Char attelé Catering FRANCE • I must stay onChemin the marked hiking trail. The fauna Eisenbahn/Bus fer/bus de Hébergement Accommodation need peace and quiet. Gastronomie Restauration Biel/Bienne Curiosité Sight Chasseral Unterkunft • I must close gatesHébergement behind me: pastures and Neuchâtel Panorama Panorama Sehenswürdigkeit Curiosité Bern forests are private property; I must respect Panorama Panorama
farmers and foresters and their work.
• I must walk around herds: mother cows can be aggressive and might attack you. • I must keep my dog on the lead: even the most-behaved dog is considered a predator by game and cattle. • I must take all rubbish with me in my backpack: nature does not appreciate rubbish at all. • And above all, I will enjoy the unique landscape with all of my senses.
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GENERAL INFORMATION HIKING SEASON Mid-May to mid-October. During this period, the Chasseral is free of snow and accessible by bus. ROUTE
The route is marked with the official signage of Swiss hiking trails (yellow signs). Follow the place names specified on these signs. The hiking trails are generally wellmaintained, but they do require sure-footedness in some places.
HIKING TIMES
The hiking times specified are just a guide and do not include breaks for food or sightseeing. We recommend allowing enough time for the hikes.
EQUIPMENT
Hiking boots and clothes suitable for the weather are recommended for all hikes.
GUIDED TOURS
A guided tour of the Anabaptist archive is included in the flat rate. A hiking guide is not included, but you can book one if you so desire. Participants in a guided hike will be given lots of interesting facts about the Anabaptists and the region.
INSURANCE
You hike at your own risk. It is up to participants to obtain accident and cancellation insurance.
A horse which in 1918 fell into the gorge is part of the turbulent history of the Anabaptist Bridge. The photo is the only one which shows the former bridge.
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1ST DAY OF THE HIKE SONCEBOZ – PIERRE-PERTUIS – SONCEBOZ
DESCRIPTION OF THE HIKE Circular hike from Vallon de Saint-Imier via the Pierre Pertuis Pass and the crests of the Montagne du Droit. 4 h 40
15.5 km
526 m
526 m
SCHEDULE FOR THE DAY A landscape near Le Vion which is structured by an alley and a dry stone wall.
The hike starts in Sonceboz, an important stage location between Bern and Basel in the post-carriage era. The imposing Restaurant de la Couronne, where travellers and animals used to be fed and put up, bears testimony to this fact. On the climb to Pierre-Pertuis, we follow the 19th century carriage road which is 18 feet (5.3 m) wide. The first highlight of the hike is the Pierre-Pertuis rock passage not far from the top of the pass with the rare Roman inscription. The inscription dedicated to the emperor presumably dates back to a road expansion carried out in about AD 200. To the south of Le Vion, we pass through a typical Jura landscape with pastures, alleys, hedges, dry stone walls, individual trees, etc. An isolated hut is also worth mentioning: it is one of the old cisterns which were very important for establishing settlements in the Jura Mountains. Today, the water shortage caused by geological conditions is compensated for by powerful pumping stations which channel the drinking water from the groundwater reserves of the Vallon de Saint-Imier. Before long, farm names like «La Schnegg» or «La Sommer» suggest that we are in an area settled by Anabaptists. Another indication of this is the architecture of the farm next to the Anabaptist Chapel (see page 4) close to the hamlet of Jean Gui: the architectural style of the Jura house’s wooden roof design with round arches clearly originates from the Bern region ! After the hike over the crest of the Montagne du Droit, which offers spectacular views, the trail descends from Le Jeanbrenin to Corgémont via an old charrière (cart track). After exiting the forest, we find ourselves in a cantonal nature reserve: the south-facing pasture planted with bushes and trees is a typical dry grassland and a valuable habitat for numerous endangered plant and animal communities. Make sure you also have a look at the block of stone below the clump of trees with the bench. This block of crystalline comes from the Saas Fee/Zermatt region and was transported 280 kilometres by the ice-age Rhone Glacier !
From Sonceboz-Sombeval Railway Station, you go to the village of Sonceboz* (15 min.), where you hand in your baggage at Hotel du Cerf. Possibly buy food at the hotel or purchase a picnic in the village. The first stage of the hike goes up the Pierre Pertuis Pass (40 min.). This section is identical to the ViaJura (Wanderland route 80). Turn left at the Pierre Pertuis rock passage (10 min.) (Roman road tunnel) and continue hiking via Le Vion, St-Hubert and La Talvogne until reaching the hamlet of Jean Gui (approx. 1 h 25 min.). There you can go on a tour of the Anabaptist archive which is included in the package. The hike continues via the crests until Le Jeanbrenin before descending to Corgémont (1 h 30 min.). Turn left after crossing the railway line and follow the route along the railway line back to Sonceboz (40 min.).
TIPS
• In Jeanbrenin there is a possibility of visiting the horse sanctuary of the Foundation for Horses (see below for information on making an appointment). • In Corgémont there is a monument of Dean Morel (on the main road to Cortébert, five minutes on foot from the Hotel de l‘Etoile).
CONTACTS
Hôtel Restaurant du Cerf Rue du Collège 4 CH-2605 Sonceboz T. +41 (0) 32 488 33 22 www.cerf-sonceboz.ch
Stiftung für das Pferd (Horse Foundation) Le Jeanbrenin T. +41 (0) 32 487 54 86 www.philippos.ch
Hôtel Restaurant de l‘Etoile Route de Chaumin 1 CH-2606 Corgémont T. +41 (0) 32 489 33 72 www.etoile-corgemont.ch
Anabaptist archive T. +41 (0) 32 942 39 42 in urgent cases: T. +41 (0) 32 489 10 79 T. +41 (0) 77 435 36 32
• If you stay the night at the Hôtel de l‘Etoile in Corgémont, the hike of course starts from there.
One final thing worth mentioning is the house where Charles-Ferdinand Morel was born right by the railway line in Corgémont, a building typical of rural aristocrats. The Reformed Pastor, Morel (1772−1848), always treated the Anabaptists with respect and in 1835 helped them to rebuild the Anabaptist Bridge. 9
2ND DAY OF THE HIKE SONCEBOZ – CREUX DE GLACE – CHASSERAL
DESCRIPTION OF THE HIKE Climb from Vallon de Saint-Imier to the Prés-de-Cortébert plateau and on to the crest of the Chasseral. 5 h 45
18.5 km
1040 m
1040 m
Starting the hike at Corgémont reduces the total amount of time required by about 35 minutes.
SCHEDULE FOR THE DAY Summer grazing hut on Les Limes, with an old cistern
The second day of the hike takes you to the southern flank of the Vallon de Saint-Imier. A first site combines the old mill and the stone arch bridge over the River Suze near Corgémont. The two-arched bridge dating back to the 19th century is a structure made of local Jura limestone with traditional paving between the parapet walls. In the following climb to the Anabaptist Bridge, we used the cart track of an old access road which starts as a defile sunk into the terrain. Today, the hardship and dangers associated with transporting goods by cart along this trail, which is steep in some places, until the early 20th century are virtually inconceivable! At the mystical Anabaptist Bridge (see page 12), a plateau is reached which we subsequently walk through from east to west. The plateau is initially dominated by individual farms which operate all year round with extensive farming, then come the typical Jura wooded pastures. The so-called «Métairies» dot the landscape, traditional farms which are mostly owned by local authorities on the shores of Lake Biel. A good example of this is Petite Douanne: this «Métairie», which has belonged to the local authority of Twann since 1689, was managed for about 200 years by permanently employed herders and cheese makers, and it has been leased to private individuals since 1898. Like at many other «Métairies», cheese is still made and regional products are sold at Petite Douanne. You simply must try the Gruyère produced here with the AOP (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) quality seal! In the middle of this peaceful landscape, the hiker suddenly finds themselves in front of the Creux de Glace, a geological-glaciological attraction which is closely linked to the history of the «Métairies» and Anabaptists (see pages 12 and 13). We end up standing on the crest of the Chasseral at an altitude of about 1,600 metres above sea level and being surprised by the incomparable view extending from the Three-Lakes region in the foreground to the Alpine panorama between Mt. Säntis and Mont Blanc. The Emmental and the Bernese pre-Alps, the places where many Anabaptists originally came from who found a new home in the Jura, lie in between.
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The second day of the hike first takes you back to Corgémont (40 min.) and then up to the Anabaptist Bridge (1 h 35 min.). From here you hike over the Plateau Prés-de-Cortébert, past La Cuisinière and on to Petite Douanne (1 h 15 min.). Those who booked in advance will enjoy a ride on a horse-drawn carriage on this section of the route (not included in the package). From Petite Douanne it is not far to Creux de Glace (10 min., it is approx. 150 m off the main trail). After continuing via the Métairie de Meuringue to Les Limes Derrière (55 min.), there is a short descent towards Combe Grède (20 min.) and the final climb to the hotel on Mt. Chasseral (50 min.).
TIPS
• We strongly recommend that you head out early on the hike so there is enough time for breaks and food, looking at the Anabaptist Bridge and Creux de Glace and enjoying the view of Mt. Chasseral (departure of bus heading back down from the Chasseral: 4.40 p.m.). • The Sonceboz–Corgémont route can also be completed by train (hourly service). Please appreciate the Anabaptist Bridge and Creux de Glace as special cultural and natural sites. In particular, you should not touch or interfere in any other way with the rock inscriptions. • Catering options: La Cuisinière, Petite Douanne, Métairie de la Meuringue and Hotel Chasseral. • More information on the history of the region is available in the Mémoires d’ici research Centre at Rue du Midi 6 in Saint-Imier, T. +41 (0) 32 941 55 55, www.m-ici.ch. • Opening times : Mon. and Thu., 2 to 6 p.m. (or on request). Closed from mid-July to mid-August.
CONTACTS
Carriage ride : Biohof Laas T. +41 (0) 32 489 15 44 info@laas.ch Métairie de la Meuringue T. +41 (0) 32 944 12 24 Fermé lu+ma
La Cuisinière T. +41 (0) 32 489 19 24 Fermé lu+ma Hôtel Chasseral T. +41 (0) 32 751 24 51 Fermé di soir + lu soir Petite Douanne T. +41 (0) 32 944 12 37 Fermé me
2ND DAY OF THE HIKE, ALTERNATIVE SONCEBOZ – CREUX DE GLACE – COURTELARY See page 10 for a description of how to get to Creux de Glace. After Le Pletz, the hike first takes us through a typical Jura pasture with dry stone walls, distinctive individual trees, hedges and yellow gentian, which blooms in summer and from whose roots gentian spirit is made. It is also an ingredient in the herbal aperitif, Suze, which was first distilled in the Vallon de Saint-Imier. The varied landscape is dominated by the crest with the Métairie du Prince. The name dates back to the period from 1710 to 1792, a time when the «Métairie» was owned by the prince-bishop of Basel who leased it to vassals and presumably also to Anabaptists. To descend further into the steep forested hillside, we again use one of the old charrières. The charrières were the first connections between the valley settlements and the mountain farms which were able to be navigated using carts and sledges. Prior to this, the goods had to be transported on simple footpaths and mule trails or transported on horseback. The charrières were used, for example, to transport milk, cheese, eggs and livestock into the valley, but also the deceased. In the opposite direction, the most essential household foodstuffs, salt for people and animals and extra hay for the livestock were transported.
DESCRIPTION OF THE HIKE Climb from Vallon de Saint-Imier to the Prés-de-Cortébert plateau, then another descent into the Vallon de Saint-Imier. 5 h 25
18 km
760 m
710 m
PROGRAMME
The alternative route is identical to the second day’s programme until Creux de Glace (see page 10). After the Creux de Glace, you hike back a little bit and turn left at Le Pletz. The continuation first takes you through a typical pasture landscape past the Métairie du Prince and then via an old cart track down to the district capital of Courtelary.
TIPS
See tips on page 10. • Catering options : La Cuisinière, Petite Douanne.
CONTACTS
La Cuisinière T. +41 (0) 32 489 19 24 Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays La Petite Douanne T. +41 (0) 32 944 12 37 Closed on Wednesdays Carriage ride : Biohof Laas T. +41 (0) 32 489 15 44 info@laas.ch • Si la randonnée est effectuée depuis Corgémont, le temps de marche est réduit d’environ 35 minutes.
The roots of the yellow gentian are used to make a special gentian spirit.
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ANABAPTIST BRIDGE AND CREUX DE GLACE migration of the Anabaptists, there is talk about «their nightly meetings» on the mountain. It was a suitable meeting place, because it was at the same distance from both mountainous areas and away from prying eyes and ears. The Reformed Pastor, Théophile-Rémy Frêne (1727– 1804), mentioned the Anabaptist Bridge five times in his «Journal de ma vie». The most interesting mention is the one dated July 1760: «Early one Wednesday morning, we went with the Father to the Anabaptist Bridge, in whose trench we found several petrifications». The Reformed Pastor and Dean, Charles-Ferdinand Morel of Corgémont (1772–1848), who always treated the Anabaptists with respect, helped to rebuild the bridge out of stones in 1835. It collapsed in 1924 and was not rebuilt. In 1932, the current embankment was constructed above the original bridge.
CREUX DE GLACE: A SPECIAL CAVE
The Creux de Glace is a natural cave that is very well known to the local population. It is located on the northern flank of the Chasseral between the «Métairies» Petite Douanne and Meuringue at an altitude of 1,330 metres above sea level. The ice cave was created in malm, a rock that is 150 million years old. Water gradually seeped in and dissolved the rock, allowing the cavity to be created. The Swiss Speleological Society found and documented about 50 other caves in the same massif. However, the Creux de Glace is probably the most impressive and interesting of them all – in terms of geology, climate and the history of civilisation.
GREAT DIFFERENCES IN TEMPERATURE
Anabaptist Bridge
ANABAPTIST BRIDGE
On the northern flank of the Chasseral mountain range, in the upper section of the Combe du Bez Gorge, a wooden bridge, and later a stone bridge, once connected the mountainous areas of the two local authorities of Corgémont and Cortébert. The first written mention of this place called Pont des Anabaptistes dates back to 1755. However, the inscriptions in the rock face below the remaining abutments of the former stone bridge date back to as late as the 17th century. Four kilometres further west, near the Métairie Petite Douanne, there is a natural cave about 25 metres deep, the Creux de Glace. Similar inscriptions are to be found on its limestone walls.
IDEAL MEETING POINT
If you imagine that the current crossing in the Combe du Bez was not here, you soon realise how difficult it once was to build a bridge here over the gorge. It is not known when the bridge was first built. In an official report from the early 18th century, a period which saw increased im12
The opening of the Creux de Glace is surrounded by fir trees. From here there is a descent of about 25 metres. On hot summer days, the difference between the outdoor temperature and the temperature at the bottom of the cave is particularly impressive. The temperature at the bottom virtually never goes above freezing during the course of the year. As a rule, the temperatures at the bottom of such caves correspond to the average annual temperature of the place they are in. The figure for the north face of the Chasseral at an altitude of 1,300 metres above sea level is about 5° Celsius.
ICE CAVES
There are several ice caves known in the Jura, the Creux de Glace being one of the three most important ones. Whereas for the ice caves of Monlési (canton of Neuchâtel) and St-Livres (canton of Vaud) ice masses of 6,000 and 3,000 cubic metres respectively have been calculated, the figure for the Creux de Glace is only 500 cubic metres. A distinction is made between different types of natural ice. The ice of the Creux de Glace comes under the category of static ice: in winter, the snow piles up in the cave and cold air gets in.
Due to its greater density, the cold air stays at the bottom of the cave even in summer; the lighter hot air cannot displace the colder air. Just like with other glaciers, the snow hardens into firn and ultimately turns into ice. This happens most frequently in spring when the snow melts and additional meltwater gets into the cave and freezes. The Swiss Institute for Speleology and Karst Studies (SISKA) in La Chaux-de-Fonds has investigated the development of this subterranean glacier. With the aid of temperature sensors, it is hoped that answers will be found to the question of what effects the current changes to the global climate will have on the glacier. Even an increase in temperature of just a few tenths of a degree could make the ice volume shrink. However, other factors like the tree cover around the opening of the cave also have an effect on the temperature inside.
STORIES IN BETWEEN REALITY AND LEGEND
There are numerous inscriptions on the rock faces of the Creux de Glace, the oldest one dating back to 1737. They are currently several metres above the bottom of the cave – a possible sign that the layer of ice used to be thicker, because the inscriptions were presumably made whilst standing. Until the mid-20th century, farmers used the Creux de Glace as a cold store or removed ice from it to cool butter and cheese in its “Métairies”. At that time, refrigerators were anything but a standard household appliance. However, ice was never harvested on an industrial scale as was the case with other Jura glaciers. According to oral and written traditions, the Anabaptists also mined iron ore here from the 16th century. However, there are no signs of mining in the cave itself, which suggests that iron ore mining was just a legend.
THE INSCRIPTIONS ON CREUX DE GLACE
Pastor Frêne also described a walk to the Creux de Glace in 1757: “At 2 a.m. on 5 July, we headed off to the Chasseral where we arrived after four hours. We saw the sunrise and visited the Creux de Glace on the way home.” It is still not known how to interpret the inscriptions on the limestone walls of the Creux de Glace. Why did the Anabaptists meet here of all places? Without any written sources, historians can only hypothesise – and visitors can enjoy the magical aura.
Winter
Hiver/Winter Air plus froid à l'extérieur qu'à l'intérieur de la cavité Luft ausserhalb der Grotte kälter als im Innern
Air chaud/Warme Luft
Air froid/Kalte Luft
Climbing down into the Creux de Glace is dangerous and you are strongly advised not to do so. The owner cannot accept any liability in case of an accident.
Accumulation de neige pendant l’hiver Schneeansammlung im Winter
Glace/Eis © ISSKA/ID3A
© ISSKA
Ice formations in the Creux de Glace in spring.
Summer
Eté/Sommer
Forêt = protection contre la chaleur du soleil Wald = Schutz vor Sonnenwärme
Air plus chaud à l'extérieur qu'à l'intérieur de la cavité Luft ausserhalb der Grotte wärmer als im Innern
Infiltration d’eau Versickerndes Wasser Colonne de glace Eissäule Névé/Firn
«Lac» d’air froid Kaltluft-«See»
Glace/Eis © ISSKA/ID3A
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CULTURAL TRAILS CULTURAL ROUTES OF SWITZERLAND
Travel like a sumpter, arrive like a pilgrim, eat like a Roman and sleep like a bishop: the Cultural Routes of Switzerland programme makes travel adventures of bygone eras come to life. Hiking on a cultural trail is an incomparably delightful way of rediscovering Switzerland with all the senses – whether individually or as part of a Cultural Routes of Switzerland package.
ventory of Historic Swiss Transport Routes (IVS). Proper maintenance and tourist use of historic trails make an important contribution to the sustainable development of the cultural landscape. www.itinéraires-culturels.ch
The Cultural Routes of Switzerland network consists of historic routes based on scientific principles like the In-
K606-01©2004 swisstopo
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PARTNERS REGIONAL PARK CHASSERAL The “Chemin des Anabaptistes” is located in the Regional Park Chasseral. The park staff help to ensure sustainable regional development. • They protect the park’s heritage and enhance its status. They plant trees, create a valuable habitat for rare animals like the skylark and capercaillie or plants such as the lady’s slipper, carry out clean-up operations and protect the rare vegetation on the crest of the Chasseral. • They develop and support activities relating to lowimpact tourism, mobility and regional products. They encourage public transport and organise themed tours and visits with hiking guides. They develop new mountain bike trails, maintain the signs showing how to access the «Métairies» and ensure that even people with limited mobility can enjoy the great outdoors in the park. • They also make both locals and visitors to the park more environmentally aware. To that end, they conduct school projects about nature and landscapes and introduce young people to regional products, amongst other things.
SUSTAINABLE PROJECT FOR THE REGION
The Regional Park Chasseral was created thanks to the joint will of the local authorities involved to encourage sustainable development in the region. The valuable natural heritage, but also the rich cultural, rural and industrial heritage as well as the building culture should be enhanced in status and protected. The park is therefore neither a nature reserve nor an adventure park for tourists, but rather a platform for encouraging dialogue between all regional partners who are passionate about protecting their common regional heritage.
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES JURA BERNOIS TOURISME SAINT-IMIER
Jura bernois Tourisme Place de la Gare 2 2610 Saint-Imier T. +41 (0) 32 942 39 42 saintimier@jurabernois.ch www.jurabernois.ch
LA NEUVEVILLE
Jura bernois Tourisme Rue du Marché 4 2520 La Neuveville T. +41 (0) 32 751 49 49 laneuveville@jurabernois.ch www.jurabernois.ch
MOUTIER
Jura bernois Tourisme Avenue de la Gare 9 2740 Moutier T. +41 (0) 32 494 53 43 info@jurabernois.ch www.jurabernois.ch
THE OTHER TOURIST INFROMATION CENTRES OF THE JURA & THREE-LAKES DESTINATION Aarberg, Avenches, Balsthal, Büren an der Aare, Cernier, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Le Locle, Delémont, Erlach, Ins, Grandson, Lyss, Neuchâtel, Noiraigue, Orbe, Payerne, Porrentruy, Romainmôtier, Salavaux, Twann, Vallée de Joux, La Vue des Alpes, Saignelégier, Sainte-Croix, SaintUrsanne, Sugiez Vallorbe, Yvonand
PARK AS A BASIS FOR COOPERATION
Being officially designated a «Regional nature park» is not associated with any additional administrative obligations in the area concerned. The park staff do not have any disciplinary powers. Their cooperation with the partners concerned is the basis of their work. The Regional Park Chasseral was officially designated a «Park of national importance» in 2012 with support from the federal government and the canton. www.parcchasseral.ch Konferenz der Mennoniten der Schweiz KMS Conférence mennonite suisse CMS www.menno.ch
ISSKA • SISKA
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Information and bookings: Jura bernois Tourisme Place de la Gare 2 |ÂŚ CH-2610 Saint-Imier T. +41 (0) 32 942 39 42 | saintimier@jurabernois.ch www.jurabernois.ch