I S S U E
HOLIDAY SPARKLE ISSUE 2
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR By Jill Heijligers-Peloquin
TRIPLE OMBRÉ FX & HOLIDAY SILVER SPARKLE By Carmen Palmiste
MOTHER NATURE. AUTUMN GOLD Edited by Jill Heijligers-Peloquin
#USA EAST COAST ARTIST SPOTLIGHT CHERISE MORRIS By Jill Heijligers-Peloquin
IMPLEMENTING PROCEDURES FOR YOUR STUDIO By Levi Shephard
LASH ARTISTS INTERNATIONAL FRAME TO FAME CONTEST Winners Gallery
LET’S BE CLEAR ABOUT ADHESIVES By Christie Vevoda
LET YOUR CLIENT BE YOUR CANVAS By Alisha Meadows
5 APPS EVERY LASH ENTREPRENEUR SHOULD HAVE By Allie Williams
6 STEPS TO BUILDING A GREAT TEAM By Michelle Rath
BEATING THE WINTER WOES: WORKING IN COLD, DRY CLIMATES By Leslie Kroeker
READERS’ Q&A WITH DR. PETER PHAM EYE EXPERTISE By Jill Heijligers-Peloquin
SHOOT FOR THE EDIT By Jill Heijligers-Peloquin & Kim Regier
HOLIDAY SPARKLE Readers Gallery
#CANADIAN ARTIST SPOTLIGHT HANNA BABANAKOVA By Jill Heijligers-Peloquin
HOW TO BECOME A BETTER LASH ARTIST By Miranda Bowey
©Copyright 2017 Lash Inc USA-Canada 3317 S Higley Road suite 114-336, Gilbert, AZ 85297 USA All rights reserved. The views and opinions printed herein are not official expressions of Lash Inc USA-Canada nor presented as factual or accurate claim, unless so stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means for any reason without specific written permission from Lash Inc USA-Canada.
W W W.L ASHFX.COM PRO F ESSION AL SUPPL IES | EDUCATION ISSUE 2
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Issue 2 Lash Inc USA-Canada
Holiday Sparkle! Why must my favorite time of the year be such a fast pace that races from “Happy Halloween!” to “Happy New Year!” in a blink of an eye? All the best parts of the year get blurred into a whirlwind of deadlines, parties, thank you notes and celebrations. If you are an established Lash Artist, you are already booked solid with no room to squeeze in more. Let’s not forget the “Holiday Sparkle” in this mad rush to Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Offer your clients something SUPER special with SugarPlum Ombré or Metallic Holiday Sparkle lash designs – Carmen Palmiste shares how – and shows you gorgeous examples in her “Triple FX Ombré” technique tutorial on page 58.
Issue 2 of Lash Inc USA-Canada has so many terrific articles, but also has tons of eye candy. If you would like to see your work highlighted in our February Issue, the theme is The Love Affair Between Lashes and Brows: “Lashes Brows” – let’s see those lashes and brows done up in creative hi-editorial style. Think braided brows, ombré sets and artistic stylization of both! Be sure to send 3-5 images in print resolution (300 dpi preferred) to firstname.lastname@example.org using WeTransfer, DropBox or Google Drive links. Happy Holidays and lots of Sparkle! Jill
We have welcomed back Dr. Peter Pham in a second installment of “Eye Expertise” – readers took me up on the offer to reach out with questions – and Dr. Pham answers them all! (Thank you, by the way, to all who write in with questions and comments!)
MOTHER NATURE Autumn Gold 6
Our amazing cover shot is a Fantasy Lash Art creation by Kerstin Kaluza from Augenweide- Wimpernverlängerung & Wimpernlifting in Dudenhofen, Germany. “Mother Nature” was the theme in the online Fantasy Lash Art Competition for Lash Pro Contest Slovenia. Kersten’s interpretation took 2nd Place in the championship. Kersten is a passionate Lash Stylist, only having learned 1.5 years ago! For the last 6 months, she has been in love with Fantasy Lash Art. “It started my passion. Art was always a big part of my life. Now I am proud that I can make my living doing my passion – and I do it with my complete heart and soul!” This victory is no fluke or beginners’ luck, as Kerstin’s interpretation of “Fairy Tale” for the London Lash Battle took 1st place – and graced the cover of Lash Inc International Edition in August! We asked Kerstin about her color palette and inspiration of “Mother Nature – Autumn Gold”. The color palette was based on earth tones and browns with gold to reflect and signify the regality of Mother Nature. Every detail of the makeup and costume artistry was handmade by the artist herself. The headpiece was fashioned from a simple carton, branches of hazelnut shrub and jewelry. The model’s nude body was the base of the costume, adding and gluing and painting textures and color using liquid latex to create a “bark”, moss, leaves, twigs, tulle and organza fabrics, filigree jewels and body paint – a marvelous, elegant, yet organic result! Lashes used: only colored lashes in both C and D curls: dark brown, light brown, yellow brown in a multi-color mix, red and green. “I used transparent (clear) adhesive to fix fans of 4D-8D in lengths of 8-12mm. For the little details, I used tiny flowers, trees, and glitter lashes for the bottom lashes. Framing the eyes, I used fabric leaves, colored and decorated in the same color palette of the costume.” “To me, personally, it is very important that my vision is in harmony. I explored for hours in the forest to find a suitable tree for the scenery. My wish was that my model would look as one with nature. Every position, every facial expression in the photos reflects my vision of Mother Nature: gentle, but equally strong and royal, yet kind. This is why she holds the bird in her hand, and also why I chose to use branches and scrolls to depict the tree of life. My model has to be completely involved with and invested in the project vision. When shooting the photos, I directed the model’s poses. The sun light was very important for me too – I wanted the light to stream through the trees. I do not work with professional models. I love models that fit my vision; one that can reproduce my version of the theme. Trust is important in a photo shoot. Harmony of all these elements produce the best shots.”
Featured Cover Look EDITED BY JILL HEIJLIGERS-PELOQUIN ISSUE 2
Kerstin’s advice for others who are interested in exploring Fantasy Lash Art: “Fantasy knows no boundary or rules, so be courageous and true to your design vision. Work with simple materials and mediums: nature gives us many details to work with such as leaves, branches, flowers. Keep a notebook of your ideas to collect them in one place that you can refer to when planning an imaginative lash art creation.” You can find, “friend” and follow Kerstin Kaluza and see her professional lash work on Instagram @ Augenweide_by_kerstinkaluza and on Facebook at Wimpernverlängerung und Wimpernlifting by KerstinKaluza She trains for GlamLashes by ElizabetKosmetik Germany, but will soon open her own Academy Augenweide. Lashes, Makeup, Hair & Costumery: Kerstin Kaluza, Studio Augenweide Photography: Cidem Ugrasaner
IMPLEMENTING PROCEDURES for your studio BY LEVI SHEPHARD / NALA PRESID ENT
Implementing easy to follow procedures, or processes, for your daily business activities will not only make your life easier but will also help increase revenue for your business.
Utilizing the same procedure for regular transactions and duties will increase the productivity of your studio and your staff. Following consistent processes also helps your clients to trust you because they know what they can expect EVERY time they visit your studio. When you systemize your business and make your daily procedures clear and easy, you are more likely to adapt when your business grows. Without these processes in place, everything may become overwhelming when your client list grows and your responsibilities grow with each new level of success. Growth and success should be a time for celebration. To avoid overwhelm and potential chaos, create a list of all your business tasks and break them down into these categories: Administration, Sales and Marketing, Client Management and Financial duties. Record your step-by-step processes for each categorized task.
Here are some examples of regular duties in a lash studio: •
Reception duties, including how to answer the phone (a greeting that is true to your brand), process for taking payments, process for booking appointments, etc.
Client intake process
Client prep process
Room cleaning and decontamination process
Tools and implements decontamination process
Once you have created a list of all your regular weekly, monthly and annual activities and you have figured out the best steps for completing each task, you will likely have to tweak and adjust your recorded processes as you find gaps in the steps. It is important, even if you are the only one that works in your lash studio, to follow your procedures diligently. You will get into a routine and each day will begin to flow more smoothly. When the time comes to hire a staff member, for reception or for lash services, you can easily train them by teaching them your processes. An on-site binder with printouts of all your categorized processes may be very useful to a new employee. It will also help to make your expectations really clear to your staff. This process of creating and implementing procedures will take a bit of time in the beginning but I guarantee it will save you time everyday and will help you to feel in control of your business. Things will be running like a well-oiled machine in no time. Your business growth will be inevitable and easy.
l a s h e s f o r r e a l l i f e
Let’s be Clear ABOUT ADHESIVES BY CHRISTIE VEVODA / OWNER OF EYELASH AD D ICT
Christie Vevoda, Co-founder/ Owner of Eyelash Addict LTD in Stony Plain, Alberta is a frequent contributing author to Lash Industry trade publications. She is passionate about equipping future lash Artists to become successful in their new career through education and quality product development.
Often in our line of work, customers ask lots of questions and have concerns that pertain to client sensitivities. There are a few components in all eyelash adhesives that could be the possible cause of those sensitivities. If not the cause, they are possibly factors that can irritate their eyes while the adhesive is curing, especially if there is an underlying infection that isn’t noticeable yet. Cyanoacrylate is the main ingredient, and takes most of the flack for sensitivities, but, statistics state that only 2% of the population will ever become allergic to Cyanoacrylate. There is the stabilizer, which can also be an irritant.
It is then refined into the finest particles and mixed to create the blackest color in a variety of products such as tires, plastic, rubber, and (you guessed it) our adhesives.
Then there is the Carbon Black. Up until the last couple years, Carbon Black, (AKA CAS No. 1333-86-4) is the one ingredient that has been overlooked when we have examined the possible causes of sensitivities.
Carbon black has been the subject of extensive scientific health studies during the past several decades by many different agencies, with the focus being mainly on health and environmental impact. Some of this research has shown “sufficient evidence” in animals and “inadequate evidence” in humans that one agency, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that Carbon Black is possibly Carcinogenic to humans. Other agencies around the world have come up with their own conclusions, but based on the above information, I think it is safe to say that Carbon black has the potential of being a substantial irritant to a cross section of our sensitive clients.
Carbon black is usually derived from heavy petroleum products such as FCC tar, coal tar, and ethylene cracking tar to name a few. (These ingredients alone aren’t really something I would choose to put near my eyes if there were another option.) It is put through a firing process where the crude product is cracked under high temperatures in a reactor, separated from the byproduct that is left over, and processed into different size pellets of various sizes and grades.
What are our options? We do have a few to consider. Most of us were trained with the black adhesive, and up until a couple of years ago the clear adhesives we had available to us either didn’t have the bonding ability of our black adhesives, or it would cure anything but clear, leaving a discolored, unattractive residue hanging onto our lash extensions. Lucky for us the lash industry is in a constant state of growth, and manufacturers have begun to provide many
good quality clear adhesives that do have the ability to bond for six or more weeks, and cure clear - the way we need them to. The biggest obstacle in using the clear adhesives, in my opinion, is that they are practically invisible, which makes it hard to see the surface of the bubble as you dip into it. There is also a bit of a learning curve when you start using it, but if you angle your lamp just right, you will see the light on the surface of the adhesive move as you touch down or dip into the adhesive with your extension. Once you get used to using the clear adhesive, you will find yourself reaching for it for more than just for your sensitive clients. Use it for your students with both your Classic and Volume courses. Classic students will see more clearly the space they may be leaving between the extension and the lash, while Volume students will be able to see the wrapping of the fan bases much more clearly. Changing to a clear adhesive isn’t going to solve your client sensitivity issues, but it certainly will make a difference if the ingredient they are sensitive to is the Carbon Black, and it is a definite step in the right direction. Ask your adhesive supplier if they have a clear adhesive comparable to the black adhesive you use regularly, and give it a go. I know we carry a couple of fabulous clear adhesives. Who knows, you might find it isn’t as hard to get used to as you thought it would be, and then your clients can benefit from less toxic ingredients used near such sensitive tissues. Along with using clear adhesive, I would like to recommend implementing the use of a quality Barrier Cream to protect your client’s eyelids from the vapors, regardless of which adhesives you choose. Ellie Malmin of Lashologist’s Choice has developed one that will work to protect your clients from sensitivities for a lifetime of lash extensions.
e y ela sha ddict. c om
Let Your Client BE YOUR CANVAS BY ALISHA MEADOWS / CEO + OWNER GLITZ LASH AND BROW STUDIO & THE MEADOWS LASH COLLECTION
Genuine Lash Artist Are Only Limited by Imagination Here’s the secret to becoming a lash artiste: Life-long learning, practice, and experience on a broad spectrum of clientele. It may take some venturing out of your comfort zone, but that’s how to get your chops. Exercise your skills on a variety of clients with different skin tones and lash lines. Take on the challenge of a Fitzpatrick Color Scale of 4 and 5 darker skin-toned clients! For some lash artists, creating contrast on certain clients creates a lot of anxiety. There are a few ways to achieve the greatest contrast, for any client. Lash technicians know Volume Lashing (“Russian Volume” or “American Volume”) achieves better results with contrast and retention. Some of the challenges for a Fitzpatrick 4-5, the lashes don’t appear as dense or dark, and sometime don’t last as long, even when volume lashes have been applied.
Creating Contrast Creating contrast and training the lash direction are the two main challenges lash artists struggle with when it comes to lash styling women of color. Here are two techniques that will elevate your skill mastery including the client who falls in the range of 1-3 Fitzpatrick scale. First, use the bottom row of lashes for a thicker effect – the contrast. Start by framing or outlining up to 40% on the row of lashes closest to you. Then, only apply the shorter lashes at the bottom in addition to the remainder of the lashes. This method can also be used for Classic Lashing. For the more experienced lash artist, try applying 3d-4d fans on the top row. If you’re not ready to take that leap in your technique, stacking and capping the lower lash line works equally well. Try not to overload the lashes because that can cause discomfort for the client, not to mention breakage. Curly Lashes + Multidirectional Curly lashes may seem confusing and difficult to manipulate, they are a wonderful canvas to access texture. Combine this with multidirectional natural lashes, and the outcome will be impressive. Traditionally super curly and multidirectional lashes are found on people of color, so it’s important to keep in mind how to use the natural texture to achieve contrast. There is no need to use too many lashes lengths to create a wonderful full set of lashes for your client, whether you do Volume or Classic. To achieve the best results use only three – yes three – sizes only, but what you do vary is the diameter. For example, here’s a common request: The client wants “Natural” but “Full” lashes, not too fake looking. How can you do both? Start with the B or C curl, reserve the D curl if they want a more dramatic look. Meadow’s Lash Secret: 9mm, 11mm, 12mm for length and for diameter, use .15mm and .10mm or .12mm. The thinner diameters will be reserved for those super fine natural lashes and used as fillers. Use the 9mm, 11mm, and 12mm to create an outline 9mm for the inner and outer lashes; 11mm and 12mm to emphasize length. For the final step, go through the lash line and apply the thinner diameters to the lashes that pop out, even if it appears complete -- trust me, they will be there! For the clients that have less than two rows of natural lashes, apply the .10mm to the 11mm, and 12mm for fullness. Not only does this maximize the lash line, but it also achieves maximum fullness by respecting the natural texture and curl patterns of the lashes. In the case of lashing clients with curly and multidirectional less is more for the outline, as well as creating density. Of course the same concept can be modified for example, using 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm. The idea is to not use too many lash lengths and take advantage of the client’s natural lashes, creating texture. Don’t be too concerned about the contrast of the skin tone and lashes. By expanding your trade knowledge, you’ll build out your confidence as a lash artiste.
6 Steps to building
A GREAT TEAM BY MICHELLE RATH / OWNER SINFUL LASHES – SINFUL BROWS IN STUDIO CITY, CA
You have a successful lash business. You are booked solid, and are turning away clients on a consistent basis.
Time to add another artist to your team, but where do you start? It can be a daunting task to think about hiring employees. If you share your knowledge will they use that to leave and start their own business or worse, take the clients that you have worked hard to bring in with them? There are things you can do when building your team to create a great environment for everyone, including you.
1. Be a great leader
As the leader of the team you set the tone of the workplace. If you want a positive work environment, you need to create it and be it. Your work ethic, moods and attitudes towards clients all are important factors to team building. Be a caring and understanding leader. Learn what strengths and capabilities everyone brings to the table.
2. Don’t hire people based on talent What? What I mean by that is I only hire people I like, like a lot. I find personality matches to mine; people with passion, even keeled personalities, common sense, smart. People I would like to be friends with, because in the end we are creating our work family. I can teach anyone to do great lashes, but I can’t teach people how to be passionate about doing them or how to behave in the workplace and towards each other.
3. Pay people what they are worth
If you want to create a team of talent, be prepared to pay your talent what they are worth. I have a pay scale of 50% of each appointment and provide all supplies. Based on our service prices my team members make between $75-100k a year. If your team has worked towards greatness, then be a thoughtful leader who acknowledges and rewards that. Genuine recognition and respect goes a long way to building loyalty.
4. Be transparent with your team
There is a misperception with artists that if they open their own business they would make more money. Often time they just do not understand the cost and time commitment involved in
starting and running your own business. Let your team know the time and overall costs to run a business. I am not suggesting showing everyone your profit and loss statement, but if people have a general understanding of your costs, they are less likely to leave. They will often minimize how much rent, internet, insurance, utilities, workman’s comp, payroll companies, accountant, taxes and more take out of the bottom line. In understanding the client cost acquisition, they learn to value the process. If they have a general understanding then they may be less likely to consider leaving, as they will realize that they will make more with their 50% take.
5. Have your teams back
We are inundated with messages that the customer, or in our case, client is always right. In the service industry, we know that’s not always true. Don’t brush aside the concerns or experience your employee is having with a client. If someone is genuinely treating one of my team in an
unprofessional manner, I will step in. I will start by talking frankly with the client, defining appropriate behavior, and if that doesn’t work, I will politely ask them to find another salon that’s a better fit. I can always find another client, but respecting the feelings of my team is paramount.
A leader is only as successful as their team. A great leader understands that with the right team dynamics, everyone 6. Foster team activities wins in the end. Whether you have one, five or more artists, it’s time to encourage communication and friendship among each other. Check in individually and as a group with regular meetings to keep connected and help where needed. Plan team activities together or just have dinner. It can go a long way in building your work family.
Remember excellence breeds excellence.
I started building my team in 2012 and now have 5 of the most talented artists/ trainers in the US. I value each one of them for the unique set of skills they bring to the table. I am also blessed to have a team of 4 behind the scenes team members who I credit as being the foundation of my business. I like these people, I like them a lot.
Beating the Winter Woes: WORKING IN COLD, DRY CLIMATES BY LESLIE KROEKER / LUXE LASH BY LM AND LUXE LASH ACADEMY
Luxelashbylm.com / luxelashacademy.com
Winter tends to be the busiest time of the year for Lash Artists. Holiday Parties, Work functions, Family Get-Togethers and New Year’s Bashes will fill your books to the brim and more. It’s my favorite time of year to be in the Lash Business, but not my favorite time of year to be DOING the lashes. 24
With freezing cold temperatures outside, we usually turn up the furnace, heater or fireplace. Which means we’re sucking the moisture out of our spaces and leaving the air drier than it already was! We all know lash adhesives need moisture to cure, and sometimes our little humidifiers don’t do the trick and leave you working in conditions under 30% humidity. You could fork over hundreds of dollars on “low humidity” adhesives (which may or may not work), or, you can learn to combat the conditions and work with what you have. I’m a believer that any high-quality adhesives will work in any conditions if you understand adhesive properties and adjust your techniques accordingly. Even with that in mind there are some things you can do to improve your conditions. In our busy high-end Salon in Greater Vancouver, BC, these are the methods we use to combat the Winter Woes.
4 Methods to Combat Dryness in your workspace: 1) Don’t crank the heat. Cyanoacrylate adhesives work best in cool-mild temperatures. It’s easy to want to warm up and turn the thermostat up to 25+ celsius (78+ Ferenheit) but this will immediately dry out your room, and make your adhesive thicken up and get “Gloopy” (You know, stringy and annoying...). Keep your temperature at around 19-20 Celsius (66-68 Fahrenheit). And yes, be very precise. Sometimes half a degree temperature change will make a huge difference in the speed and precision of your adhesive.
2) Use alternate forms of heat. We obviously want our clients to be warm and cozy. In our salon, we use a full bed warmer, so when they lay down they are immediately enveloped in soft, warm heat. Add a fuzzy blanket on top and they go right to sleep. By doing this it keeps the clients comfortable without adding extra dryness to the room. You will probably have to bundle yourself up – consider using a heating pad on your chair or a heated blanket on your lap. Please note: we use bed warmers designed for use with professional massage tables. A “heating pad” from the drug store will usually get too hot and be uncomfortable to lay on for the length of a lash appointment.
3) Don’t let your workspace get too cold. Its best to keep the temperature regulated day & night even when you aren’t working. Extreme temperatures fluctuating will also draw out moisture and be harder to control. It may cost more to heat the space when you aren’t working but it will be well worth it!
4) Use a commercial grade humidifie. These typically come with a digital control panel so you can just set it and forget it. If you prefer your humidity to be 50%, set that into the humidifier and it will regulate it. They can be pricier than the ones at the drug store, but they are designed for use in children’s bedrooms during times of illness, not to regulate humidity in a commercial workspace. Check the square footage of your space and make sure to get one that is powerful enough for the room. Always use Cool mist humidifiers, never warm mist. And be careful when using essential oils or any other additives in your humidifier. Check manufacturer’s instructions to prevent breakdown of plastics or other materials.
If you’ve tried all 4 of these methods and still can’t get your conditions 100% right, here’s what you need to do: 1) Don’t panic – be calm. Don’t let your client know that you’re struggling, just let them have a relaxing appointment.
2) If your glue is getting “Gloopy” (thickening, stringy, etc.) try using a larger drop of glue, on top of two pieces of micro pore tape. The micro pore tape will cause the adhesive to form a large “bubble”, which will keep the freshest part of the adhesive right on top. Larger drops take longer to cure so you will have fresh adhesive to work with for a longer period. Be very precise when dipping into your glue bubble, making sure not to touch the outer edges. Replace glue drop every 20-30 minutes.
3) Dry air means your adhesive will take longer to cure. So, you will need to use much less adhesive than normal. This means extreme precision when dipping your lash/fan into adhesive. For classics: make sure to dip very slowly, only dip the base 2mm into the adhesive, drawing out the adhesive slowly so there is absolutely no bead showing on the lash. You should see only a sheen on the base of the lash. That is all you need. Hold your isolation for a count of 3-5 after placing each lash to ensure that the adhesive has cured. For volume: Dip only .5-1mm of the 26
base of the fan quickly into adhesive creating a tiny ball at the base of the fan. When you place the fan the ball will spread around the natural lash and cause it to wrap. Hold your isolation for a count of 5 and wait until the adhesive loses its sheen before releasing.
4) Nano mist throughout the application. If you’re finding the lashes are not curing as fast as you are wanting, try to lightly Nano mist every 10-15 minutes to keep some moisture on the lashes. Also, Nano mist more frequently if your client complains of sensitivity. During dry conditions the bonds are taking longer to cure, so your clients will be exposed to the uncured cyanoacrylate longer which can cause increased likelihood of sensitivity. For this reason, also be very careful never to “dab off” excess adhesive onto the under-eye pads. That is fresh adhesive which is slowly curing – right on your clients face!
5) Give your client’s lashes a cleanse and rinse after application. Wait 5 minutes after placing the last lash and give your client a wash with a foaming lash/eye wash and rinse with distilled water. In drier air conditions, there may be more vapors which you should wash & rinse away before sending them home to reduce sensitivities. Winter should be an enjoyable, beautiful time of year, not a frustrating one. I hope these tips will help you to work better with your adhesives during cold, dry conditions.
Leslie is a master lash artist, educator and owner of Luxe Lash Academy in Greater Vancouver, BC. She also co-owns the product line LuxeLash by LM and is a busy mom of 6.
Double Certification Course for Lash Educators
& Jill Heijligers-Peloquin Lash FX® Global
Levi Shephard NALA
Attend Live and in-person or via LIVESTREAM Sunday, January 14, 2018 • West Palm Beach, Florida
register at lashfx.com/product-category/cont-ed-courses/ Sunday, September 16, 2108 • Edmonton, Alberta
register at nala-lashassociation.com
Readers’ Q&A with Dr. Peter Pham EYE EXPERTISE BY PETER PHAN / BOARD-CERTIFIED EYE SURGEON AND CEO OF OKRA LLC
Note from the Editor After the amazing response from Dr. Pham’s article in Lash Inc USA-Canada Issue 1, I invited a peer group of readers to send in questions they would like to “Ask the Eye Expert”. We would like to thank Dr. Pham for taking the time to tell us about how seasonal allergies might affect flare ups of blepharitis and other questions from the Lash Inc Lash Industry Community.
Q: Are demodex mites really on everybody’s eyelashes and eye brows? If so, should we be ‘shampooing’ their eyebrows as well as the lashes before the lash extension service? A: Not everyone has Demodex mites. These mites are parasites, and like most parasites, we pick them up from our environment. The percentage of us with Demodex increases with age. As a rough rule of thumb, it’s about the same as our age – 40% in 40-year-olds, 70% in 70-yearolds1. There’s more than just the possibility of mite infestation on the eyelids. Every eyelid is certain to have oily residue, dirt, bacteria or debris that will accumulate with daily activities. The body will always attempt to remove or lessen the impact of these unnatural accumulations by increasing tearing to aid in their dilution, or by secreting chemicals (inflammatory mediators) to recruit the necessary army of cells to attack and destroy them. Like any fighting force, the mobilization of these special cells requires “roads” or blood vessels since the cells travel to the desired site through the blood stream. Therefore, inflammation is marked by two key features: increased vascularization (to bring
in the fighting force) and discomfort or pain (to let you know there’s a fight going on between the body and something it doesn’t like). While this sounds like the body is doing all the right things to solve a problem, there’s a catch. Like most wars, once the fighting starts, it’s hard to stop. The body tends to overreact, and friendly fire is often the result of this chain of inflammation. The body ends up targeting both the bad actors like bacteria as well as itself. Hence, there’s redness, swelling, pain, and tissue loss. It’s always a good idea to carefully evaluate the eyelid margin and clean the eyelid margins before placing any lash extensions. We need to help our eyelids every chance we get. Don’t forget that there’s also the lower eyelid, even though lash extensions are applied to the upper eyelid. The reason this is important is that if there’s significant lower eyelid margin disease with lots of blood vessels and thick yellow-white oil secretion when gentle pressure is applied to the lids, the upper eyelid will have the same issues as well. When this is observed, it’s best to start an eyelid hygiene regimen and resolve the situation before performing any lash extensions.
Q: The cleanser we use has tea tree oil in it to prevent or treat blepharitis, but I also heard that tea tree oil should not be used on or near the eyes. Should we look for a new cleanser? A: Tea tree oil is a very popular ingredient in many shampoos and cleansers. The underlying idea for this likely came from several studies in the ophthalmic literature that demonstrated the ability of tea tree oil to kill ocular Demodex. What it also showed was that the concentration of tea tree oil required to kill these mites was over 50%2,3. At this high concentration, tea tree oil can cause severe redness, swelling, and eye pain, which as we just alluded to previously, are hallmarks of inflammation. We may be worsening the very problem that we’re trying to treat by using tea tree oil, especially when used at high concentration. Cleaning with 50% tea tree oil is generally an in-office procedure that requires the use of anesthetics.
A better approach would be to use a natural cleanser that can kill the Demodex without worsening the inflammation. I have the most experience with Zocular products because I developed them for my own eyes. The Zocular platform has been clinically shown to be effective against Demodex4 and the activated okra complex in the formulation targets the source of inflammation on the eyelids. I use a combination of ZocuFoamTM and ZocuWipeTM depending on the severity of the problem. ZocuFoam should be used as a daily treatment following lash extensions to maintain good eyelid hygiene. And for those clients with too much crustiness and redness on the eyelids, a combination of ZocuFoam once at night and a ZocuWipe™ once in the morning for several weeks, helps to optimize the eyelids for eyelash extensions.
Q: Seasonal allergies seem to exaggerate everything that can go wrong with a client when wearing eyelash extensions. Without diagnosing or prescribing anything, how could we professionally advise our clients to manage allergy season so they can continue to enjoy wearing lash extensions? A: Allergy season is always a very difficult time for many of us. Luckily, the eye is very good at fighting allergies. The eye has 4 natural defenses against pollen and allergens: tear secretion, lacrimal drainage, blink reflex, and eyelashes. A continuous stream of tears is secreted to dilute the allergens, which is drained through the lacrimal systems. The lacrimal duct empties into the sinus and the back of the throat. It’s no wonder that the sinuses are so often affected when allergy season starts – it’s literally the dumping grounds for allergens in the air and on the eyes.
Each blink acts like windshield wiper to clean the surface of the eye and we blink about 20 times a minute. Add up all the blinks, and the eye is actually closed about 10% of our waking hours. No wonder allergens don’t stick on the eyeball for very long. Blinking also helps to push tears through the lacrimal system, in addition to preventing trauma to the eye from foreign objects like tree branches, fingers, or lemon splashes. The eyelashes catch allergens large and small – like a filter – before they enter the eye. With so many protective mechanisms against allergens, why do so many people still get ocular allergies? Before resorting to any costly or dangerous drugs or treatments, it’s helpful to think about each defense mechanism. Let’s start off with tearing. For many of us, the first thing we reach for is artificial tears when our eyes itch or redden. We also know from personal experience that artificial tears are of limited benefit. The simple reason is that the eye rarely lacks tears. If this were to happen for any short period of time, it would shrink to a raisin and be useless as a light sensing organ. Millions of years of evolution has made sure that this does not occur very often. The eye responds to allergens by increasing tearing, so there’s little reason to add any artificial version when there’s already plenty of natural tears. Similarly, blink rate goes way up in response to allergens. Blinking only fails when there’s some sort of neuromuscular or anatomic problem with the eyelids or eyeball. This does not occur very often and is often obvious when it does. While tearing and blinking rarely fails, the lacrimal
system and eyelid margin where the eyelashes originate are the most common treatable areas to resolve ocular allergies. Many of us are unaware when our lacrimal system is not working properly. It’s only when this tear drainage system is under increased stressed that the problem manifests itself. Women are especially vulnerable to lacrimal drainage issues, since all the mascara and makeup powder are cleared through what are essential tiny plumbing lines. It not surprising that over time, these plumbing lines become clogged. We’ll talk more about the lacrimal system and how to manage tear drainage issue on the next installment. The eyelid margin and lashes play an important role in ocular allergies, and it’s also one of the easiest parts to access and treat. The primary goal of any allergy treatment is to remove the inciting allergen(s). If these allergens are getting caught on or in the eyelashes and eyelid margin, it’s critical that they be removed at least once daily with an eyelid cleanser like ZocuFoam.
Q: For me, as the lash practitioner, I am also developing dry eye symptoms. What can I do to stay comfortable and help my eyes feel better during long lash work days? A: As we discussed, most “dry eye” symptoms aren’t due to a physical deficiency in the amount of tear production. Rather, the gritty, scratchy sensation occurs when the eye is fighting
inflammation. Another common symptom occurring to those doing close-up work is eye strain. This asthenopia, or eye strain, is due to the constant muscular contraction inside the eye that occurs when the eye looks at something closer than 3 feet away. It’s often difficult to distinguish between dry eye symptoms and asthenopia when each makes the other feel much worse. Taking a short break will alleviate eye strain and dry eye symptoms as well. It’s also important to make sure the eyelid margins are healthy and that they aren’t the inciting source of the inflammation response.
Q: If a client has a stye, but they say it doesn’t hurt – that they get them all the time – can I still put lash extensions on her? A: Styes are a result of an inflammatory process, and there is generally at least a little swelling, redness, and pain when one first develops. After it quiets down, there’s just a knot that is usually not tender to palpation. It’s important to thoroughly evaluate the eyelid for why the inflammation continues to recur before placing lash extensions.
Q: I was taught that contact lenses must be removed before applying lash extensions, but I read on a lash forum that the contacts can possibly protect the eye from glue fumes/vapors. What should I believe? A: When eye surgeons perform surgery on the eyelids, we often place a hard, plastic shell over the entire eyeball to protect it from the scalpels and sutures being used right on top of it. The risk of accidentally puncturing the eyeball is quite high when there’s less than 1 millimeter separating success from disaster. The plastic covering can be quite uncomfortable and a topical anesthetic is applied during the surgery. I can see the why a contact lens would act as a good barrier for cyanoacrylate vapor since the individual monomers in the fume would become inactive upon hitting the contact lens. Obviously, the contact lens should be tossed away afterwards. Another consideration with any procedure around the eye is the risk for accidentally puncturing the eye with sharp objects, in which case a more robust barrier than a contact lens may be necessary. While any irritation or superficial scratch on the eye heals within a few days, any puncture through the eye is a sight threatening emergency.
1. Maria Wesolowska, Brygida Knysz, Adam Reich, Dominika Blazejewska, Marcin Czarnecki, Andrzej Gladysz, Andrzej Pozowski, Marta Misiuk-HojloArch Med Sci. 2014 May 12; 10(2): 319–324. 2. Hyun Koo, Tae Hyung Kim, Kyoung Woo Kim, Sung Wook Wee, Yeoun Sook Chun, Jae Chan Kim. Ocular Surface Discomfort and Demodex: Effect of Tea Tree Oil Eyelid Scrub in Demodex Blepharitis. J Korean Med Sci. 2012 Dec; 27(12): 1574–1579. 3. Gao YY, Di Pascuale MA, Li W, Baradaran-Rafii A, Elizondo A, Kuo CL, Raju VK, Tseng SC. In vitro and in vivo killing of ocular Demodex by tea tree oil. Br J Ophthalmol. 2005; 89:1468–1473. 4. M. De Jesus, C. Wong and R.W. Yee Evaluation of the Efficacy of ZocuFoam Eyelid Cleanser & Moisturizer on the In Vitro Killing of Ocular Demodex. Whitepaper.
® SEE WHY IT’S BETTER WITH ZOCULAR
Optimized for eyelash treatment to maintain bond strenght Activated Zokrex™ okra complex Sooothing Clinically effective against ocular Demodex Preferred by eye care specialists
A BETTER, GENTLER ALTERNATIVE TO TEA TREE OIL 32
( ISSUE 8 42 4 ) Z O C U L A R
Experience Excellence in Lash Education & Lash Supplies
SHOOT for the edit BY JILL HEIJLIGERS-PELOQUIN & KIM REGIER 34
In video and still photography-speak, “shooting for the edit” is a technique – a mindset, really – that can make your post-production work on projects much more efficient and focused. Busy lash artists often have very little time to devote to planning out photo sessions. We are more of a “last minute, fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants” kind of crowd, and in contrast, our photographers tend to NOT like being rushed to give final edits of shots. They are pretty quick draws on the galleries, so we can choose our shots, but if your professional photographer is indeed a BUSY professional, they have shoots in line before you to finesse and deliver. To plan from conceptualization to “shoot for the edit” is simply keeping in mind your end results. Your galleries will be filled with many more great shots that capture the mood and the meaning behind your photo session. Your photo session will be more organized and you will save valuable (and expensive!) time. Here are some simple tips from Kim Regier, owner of ChelPHOTO in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. For our VIP Subscribers, we have a fun “sneak peek tour” inside the ChelPHOTO studio with Kim, and a fun little ‘lash photo chat’ that we hope you’ll find fun and exciting – maybe inspirational! Lash Inc asked Kim what we can do as we prepare for photo shoots to get the looks we want, and also, what a photographer will expect of a lash artist (and vice versa) to make a “lash photo shoot” go well. Having realistic expectations and planning ahead is key to success.
“Whenever we have the chance, my team and I look to work with a model that has experience modelling - it always shows in the final product. The model has to
Hair: Shalaine Bouvier of CHEL salonspa Makeup: Tracy Truong also of CHEL salonspa Lashes: Eva Zacharias Eyelusionz Beauty Concepts Model: Courtney Fisher Photography: Kimball V Regier / CHELphoto www.chelphoto.com
have an understanding of how they look when they move, to know how each angle will appear from the camera’s perspective, and to trust in the guidance of the professionals advising them. This way, the result is images that represent the entire concept as they should. Of course, it saves time to work with someone that has previously modelled and knows how to move in front of a camera, and how to communicate with our team. As artists we love to have fun doing what we are blessed to do, and it’s also easier to do this when we have a familiar face to work with.” P hotography by Derek Elvin
If your model is the perfect look, but not specifically experienced with photoshoots, do some movement rehearsals with them. Work together in front of a mirror, such as in a gym, in one of the classrooms. There are also some great video tutorials that can help your model become aware of what the camera will capture. Never choose a model simply because she’s a friend or happens to be available. Treat your model selection carefully and considerately. And “mood boards”… a visual collage of team inspiration. Just like a team of television writers might create storyboards or shot outlines, using a mood board for a photography shoot can get you to that end result – where everything LOOKS like its effortless, a perfect captured moment – with less chaos. Put a team of “creative types” together and what do you get? Sometimes, you get chaos. When you plan it right, you get everyone working toward similar goal – a roadmap that will help you stay on track. Kim shares.
“We use mood boards for everything! The best way to achieve a common goal and to push ourselves to create the best images we can is to visually build it ahead of time, each contributing to the idea/concept/mood board.” When planning a photoshoot for an online photo competition such as the Lash Artists International Frame to FAME contest (see the winners later in this issue!), make sure you communicate very clearly the number of shots you will be allowed to submit, and if there are any required angles on the shot list. Be sure that the model, the photographer and your whole support team know and understand the criteria you need to showcase, and SHOOT FOR THE EDIT. ISSUE 2
SPARKLE Lashes, Makeup, Hair & Concept: Emily Lee Model: Sophia Hannis Photography: Felix Lee
HOLLYWOODHoliday Lashes, Concept, Design: Jill Heijligers-Peloquin Lash FXÂ® Global Model: Lauren So Photography: Larry Alan Photography
Lashes by: Amber Biddlecome, Owner, Amber the Lash and Browcrafter, www.waxcraft.net Photography: Raquel Noriega-Walton, Owner, BRimage Model: Rochelle Alcid
Lashes, Makeup, Hair, Concept: Jill LagasseÂ Model: Paige Witham Photography: Jill Lagasse DesignHerEyes.com FB and IG: @DesignHerEyes
All I Want for Christmas is
Lashes, Makeup & Concept: Radmila Woll, Candy Lash Spa â€“ San Diego, California Photography: Lora Calcara, Calcara Photography facebook: Radmila Woll Instagram: @ lash_extensions_Solana
Loving My LASH-TINI Lashes, Makeup, Hair: Lanine Swann Model: Shannon Smith Photography: Tunisia Bridges LovingMyLashes.com / IG: @LovingMyLashesBtq
Concept: Mindy-Tuyen Luon, Mindy Lash Studio / Tuscon, Arizona Model: Lilly Tingler Lashes, Makeup, Hair & Photography: Mindy-Tuyen Luong FB @TusconLashArtist
HOLIDAY BERRY GLITTER & GOLD
LM Lash Artistry & Luxe Lash Studio Mission, British Columbia Hair & Design: Jess Jasa Lashes: Leslie Kroeker Models: Jess Jasa and Josie Kroeker Photography: Lady J Photography
SINFUL LASHES SPARKLE
Lashes: Michelle Rath, Sinful Lashes Makeup: Julia Vedeshkina Hair: Monique Hale Photography: Peter Rath
Where Passion Creates Beauty and Style
Luxury Products & Lash Training 12266 Ventura Blvd Studio City Ca 91604 818-508-6544 Sinfullashes.com ISSUE 2
#Canadian Artist Spotlight
of Angel Wings â€“ Montreal, Canada BY JILL HEIJLIGERS-PELOQUIN
HANNA BABANA KOVA ANGEL WINGS L U X U RY L A S H & B R OW S T UD IO, SH OP & ACA DEMY MONT REAL, QUEBEC , CA NA DA
www.angelwingsbeauty.ca Instagram: instagram.com/angelwingsbeautyca Facebook: facebook.com/angelwingsbeautyca Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/angelwingsbeautyca YouTube Channel: www.youtube.com/channel/UCJKZrXzkxGxrPer6pMM2YPg
Hanna – you are our first featured Lash Inc USA-Canada “Canadian Spotlight Artist” Thanks so much for being part of LIUSACA ISSU 1!
How long have you been a Lash Artist? Can you tell us a little bit about what the Lash Industry was like when you were cutting your teeth and building your book for the first time, and what led you to be a lash artist? Thank you very much for inviting me, it is an honor. It is also always a great pleasure to be the first /laugh/. I have been in the lash business for more than 4 years. I never thought about being a beauty person. My whole makeup kit 4 years ago consisted of a foundation, a black pencil and mascara.
One day I decided to try eyelash extensions, as this service had only just appeared in my hometown. The extensions were so awful that I pulled everything off in a few days! However, I needed money, so I decided to try making extensions myself and do them better. I was familiar with beadwork and I had lots of patience, so lashing appeared to be perfectly suitable for my type of personality. The industry in Belarus (where I am from) was quite young, and I started working with a very slow glue (that
had the consistency of bubble gum) and with the lash extensions, which were thick and heavy. It was hard to find lash extensions in trays with lines in my local shops. They only had round boxes with “furry balls” inside. Of course, some time later the situation improved.
Continuing Education is a huge key to success as a Lash Artist. What kind of continuing ed do you love to attend/participate in, and what direction do you hope that continuing education in Canada will follow and evolve into? I enjoy all kinds of continuing education, but most of all I like trainings and championships. From every single training you
learn something new. Each time technicians give you small tips, which you gather over the years. Then you can pass it to the next generation of lash artists. I think this is the most precious knowledge and I value it above all. Championships are stressful, but fun. You meet many famous and experienced technicians and get inspired to improve. You can see your strong and weak sides and work on them. Frankly, it took me almost two years to correct my own flaws.
me lots of emotional power to fight stressful situations. On my very first championship my model arrived 30 minutes after the championship had started. While on the second day my model got into a car accident, and I had to find another one as soon as possible. I was too shocked even to cry, but I managed to find a kind woman who agreed to be a model for me. Only in the evening, when I got home, I could finally unbottle my emotions. I hope it would never happen to anyone, but it has definitely been an important experience for me. In a more technical sense, you learn about all the mistakes that you are prone to make. Once you know them, you can analyse and improve your technique. You also get the status. Even if you have not taken the first place, you are already a lot more prominent than a regular eyelash technician. Even the status of a contestant can bring you more clients and renown. Participation can be a colossal inspiration to move forward. When you see many successful people around in your line of work and understand that they are not exclusively lashes prodigies, you aspire to be on their level. Last but not least, there are a lot of prizes provided by different sponsors. So it can be a great opportunity to try many new brands.
What kind of stylings are most requested by your Canadian customers? Do they run the gamut, or is there a “type” of trend that is the “it girl lash style” at the moment? Cat eye and Doll eye effects are the most popular among my clients. I mostly promote volumes in all types, so almost all my clients have volume. It is usually 2-4D volume or Russian volume in 4-6D, all in length of 11-13mm. Some girls like rhinestone decorations, while others do partial color decoration. Many of my clients tend to experiment with that from time to time.
Competitions are relatively new to North America, and I know you have a wonderful event coming up in May 2018 in Montreal - please tell us about it! I am just hoping to survive until May next year /laugh/. For my event, I try to collect all the positive experience I have had both losing, winning and judging, and bring it to life here, in Canada. I hope it will be interesting and inspiring for us all. Since this is the first championship of its kind in Canada, I have put the most typical experience groups for participants: Juniors, Masters and Experts as well the most typical categories: Classic, Double Volume, 3-5D, Mega Volume, Lash Art, and Lash Art online. I am extremely excited, because the registration is already open. We already have girls who want to take part in the live championship from as far away as Australia! So I hope our readers will join us in this event as well!
You are actually a competition Champion - so, having been on both sides of the coin now - as competitor and as a judge - Can you share what you feel the benefits of competing would be for other Lash Artists? Speaking for myself, competing gave me a lot. First, it provided
What would you like to tell newer lash artists that you wish somebody had told you in the early days of your Lash Life? If someone told me how my life would look like in few years back then I would have probably died of happiness. /laugh/ Folks, if you have serious intentions to start a great career, no matter if it is a private lashing or a salon or something bigger – you go for it! Even the smallest achievement every day in getting new clients or improving your skills will work towards your goal and get you there in time. Do not be afraid to invest in your knowledge! With good trainers as you will soon bring the investment back by offering services that are more valuable. I still attend master classes with various specialists.
Thanks Hanna!!!!! We wish you every success and thank you for being such a great example to Lash Artists everywhere, but especially to the Lash Artists in Canada! Thank you very much for inviting me! I would like to wish Lash Artists all over the world the best of luck in their careers and, of course, plenty of inspiration to make the world a more beautiful place!
吀栀攀 昀椀爀猀琀 攀瘀攀渀琀 漀昀 椀琀ᤠ猀 欀椀渀搀 椀渀 䌀愀渀愀搀愀℀ 伀瘀攀爀 ㈀㜀 瀀氀愀挀攀猀 昀漀爀 瀀愀爀琀椀挀椀瀀愀渀琀猀℀ 䰀愀猀栀 琀爀愀椀渀攀爀猀Ⰰ 挀攀氀攀戀爀椀琀椀攀猀Ⰰ 戀氀漀最最攀爀猀℀ 倀爀攀猀攀渀琀猀 琀漀 愀氀氀 琀栀攀 瀀愀爀琀椀挀椀瀀愀渀琀猀℀
䨀唀䐀䜀䔀匀 ☀ 匀倀䔀䄀䬀䔀刀匀
夀嘀伀一一䔀 嘀䄀一 圀䤀䔀刀䔀一
眀眀眀⸀氀愀猀栀最氀漀戀愀氀挀栀愀洀瀀椀漀渀猀栀椀瀀⸀挀漀洀 ⌀氀愀猀栀最氀漀戀愀氀挀栀愀洀瀀椀漀渀猀栀椀瀀 椀渀昀漀䀀愀渀最攀氀眀椀渀最猀戀攀愀甀琀礀⸀挀愀
眀眀眀⸀愀渀最攀氀眀椀渀最猀戀攀愀甀琀礀⸀挀愀 ⌀愀渀最攀氀眀椀渀最猀戀攀愀甀琀礀挀愀 ⼀愀渀最攀氀眀椀渀最猀戀攀愀甀琀礀挀愀 ISSUE 2
HOW TO BECOME a Better Lash Artist BY MIRANDA BOWEY / MASTER LASH ARTIST • MIRA ESTHETICS OWNER & OPERATOR 2 LOCATIONS • CERTIFIED MINKYS EDUCATOR & PRODUCT DISTRIBUTOR SINCE 2014
Commitment and Challenge: These two aspects are important to success, but here is how they also apply to becoming a better “Lash Artist”. 54
You must commit that you are going to take the time and patience to perfect this skill. You must set aside the time to practice and gain knowledge. Taking classes, attending seminars, reading books, articles, attending beauty shows or spending quality time on online forums are all great ways to expand your skills. The art of applying Lash Extensions is new in the beauty industry (comparatively speaking). Knowing that it is ever evolving and changing, it is my job as a Professional Lash Artist to ensure my skill set and knowledge is up to par. However, make sure you have credible, expert sources! Reader beware! Anyone can
post things on YouTube or social media. This doesn’t mean what they recommend is safe or correct. Challenge… challenge yourself! I can say from personal experience how it helps because I challenged myself to compete in Lash Wars 2016. I was excited and extremely nervous. I chose to compete in the Fantasy Lash category, a type of lash artistry I don’t do often, but I enjoyed being creative. I would have never have thought of competing in Lash Wars if it wasn’t for meeting Eva Zacharias at the 2015 Global Lash Summit in Long Beach, California Conference & Mock Competition. At that ground-breaking industry event, I met many Lash Industry Icons, and expanded my knowledge even further. Meeting incredible mentors and having them critique my work gave me the confidence to compete and the inspiration to improve my lash skills. Many of us get lost in our day-to-day lashing. We forget that lashing is an art, and that we can always improve. When I began lashing in 2010, I had not even heard of Volume, 3D or Russian Lashing! Now we know more about the products used during each application, and we have hundreds of products to choose from and different application techniques to apply them. In short, the answer to the question, “How Can I Become a Better Lash Artist?” is to commit to continuing education that will develop your knowledge and skillset, and to regularly challenge yourself. Venture out of your comfort zone by challenging yourself to compete or to learn a new skill like volume lashing!
Seek out advanced education, get out of your comfort zone, level up your game, and most important of all... Lash ON!!
Miranda is an Educator and Distributor for Minkys Lash Extensions, as well as a Licensed Esthetic Instructor for Alaska. She instructs in her Studio as well as MetrOasis, the largest Esthetics School in Alaska. In the spring of 2017, Miranda stepped into a new role with Minkys as a Mentor to expand training and distribution for the Company. Miranda specializes in Lash Extensions, traveling across the US training new lash artists and advancing her own skills by attending advanced lash techniques classes. In 2016, she competed in Lash Wars for the first time, and became a Lash Champion, winning 2nd place!
TRIPLE OMBRÉ FX
& Holiday Silver Sparkle
Three Variations to Achieve Uniquely Beautiful Ombré Lash Stylings & a Holiday Look BY CARMEN PALMISTE / OW N E R O F L A S H A RT SHOP IN ESTONIA, INTERNATIONAL TRAINER, SPEAKER AND JUDGE
Ombré Liner 1. Pick your colors. The difference and technical steps depend largely on whether you only use black or combine black with brown. This will create an Ombré “bottom and out”. The example contains both black and brown. 2. Curve your work based on your selected lengths and survey lashes to analyze how much you need to use. Black lashes can be 0.10 and 0.07. Black lashes are applied only on small lashes. 3. First we apply the smallest natural lashes with either classical or 2D volume technique. If some areas are scarce with small lashes, you can use full grown lashes to get an even coverage. Extensions may be 6-9mm. 4. Finally we apply brown extensions in 3D-5D technique, paying attention to the natural lash’s carry capacity. PS! If the customer has a very low natural lash count, you can use 0.07 1D classic, to not get too much of a contrast.
Color Ombré This can be done with any colors. It is recommended to do from inside towards the outer edge of the eye. The opposite may look from a distance as if there are no extensions on the outer corner. It is beneficial for the full look, if at least 5 lengths (for example 7-11mm) are used. This is how we based for our example, using purple and black lashes. 1. We select the appropriate lengths for our customer and map out the work. The first two lengths will only be a color lash (7-8mm). Color lashes require larger fans like 4-5D to make the color really pop. 2. Staring with the third length, we start mixing in black. You can start with classic or 2D volume. Also, we start adding layers. I recommend using black extensions on the top layer and colors on the bottom. (Bottom layer 9mm 4-5mm, top layer 8mm 2D.) This way you see the color framing the open eye. 3. Now we start swapping color and black lash layers. The bottom layer will have 3D black extensions, top will have 4-5D in purple extensions. This way we fill 2 following lengths, 10 and 11mm. 4. The final lengths (until the end of the outer corner) will be filled in with black lash extensions.
Purple Black Ombré ISSUE 2
Cat Eye Ombré
Cat Eye Ombré Lots of customers wish to have a “cat eye” look for festive occasions as well as for everyday wear, where the outer corner is longer than the rest. Occasionally, they don’t know how to express their wish. What they actually want is just accentuation on the outer corner. This can be achieved in many ways – one way is to use Ombré-technique. This can be used both with round and squirrel modelling. The following example uses 7-10mm and 2D-7D fans using 0.05 thickness. 1. Map out your working lengths 2. After step 1, we mark down our fan map, for example 7mm - 2D ,8mm - 3D, 9mm - 4D etc. You can also choose to start with classic extensions in the inside corner, using 0.10/0.12 thickness and follow that with 2D, 3D, 4D etc. 3.The outer corner natural lashes are as frail as the ones on the inside corner, so the last 5mm of lashes on the outside corner, we cover with shorter lashes, for example 10mm - 5D, 11mm 6D, 10mm - 7D, and then as we go shorter in length into the last lashes. We also reduce fan size: 9mm - 6D , 8mm - 5D as we work our way to the outer last lashes.
Silver Holiday Sparkle Effect lashes can be used both on top or on the bottom row of the upper lashline. They will have an especially great impact when used on the bottom, as they will frame the eye with Holiday Sparkle! Try Rose Gold (Copper), gold and bronze (especially lovely on ginger-haired clients against dark brown lashes)! To get metallic lashes, you should first get some waterproof markers and paint the extensions before application. PS! Lash glue dries much quicker on the marker paint, so you need to be quick with applying them. 1. First step is to determine the modelling and mark down layers and lengths (which length to apply to the bottom row). 2. Tape up all of the lashes, separate the bottom row out and apply the silver-metallic extensions in 3-5D (0.07mm). 3. Once the bottom row is filled, survey to make sure they are all evenly covered. If necessary, fill/extract the middle row to correct the unity, as the bottom row of natural lashes is often asymmetrical to R and L eye and rather random. 4. Release the rest of the natural lashes and fill them with 0.05 4D-5D fans. This will make the dark lashes denser/darker and make the metallic lashes on the bottom (front) shine even more. PS! The exact same thing can be done in reverse, where the top layer is metallic. You can also mix the layers if the customer wishes a slightly more modest effect. Try a “Metallic Colored” paint marker with the “Color Ombré” instructions above.
Metallic Sparkle 58
REGISTER BEFORE DECEMBER 1ST TO RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY CERTIFICATION COURSE
2018 ARIZONA ISSUE 2
#USA East Coast Artist Spotlight
Elite Lash LLC in Boston, Massachusetts BY JILL HEIJLIGERS-PELOQUIN
CHERISE MORR I S ELITE LASH LL C B OSTON, M ASSACHUSETTS
elitelashstudio.com Instagram: @elitelashstudio Facebook: Facebook.com/EliteLashStudio
Cherise â€“ you are our Lash Inc USACanada East Coast Spotlight Artist for The November 2017 issue of our regional North America Edition! Thanks so much for being part of ISSUE 2! How long have you been a Lash Artist? Can you tell us a little bit about what the Lash Industry was like in the beginning as you were building your book for the first time? I have been a Lash Artist since 2008. It was hard getting started. Eyelash extensions were still very new to Boston and there were limited options for training. Once
you were trained, you felt all alone and basically had to often learn through trial and error. We were trained using pot lashes and had to purchase adhesives that cost $100+ that took a good 10 seconds to dry no matter how much we puffed away with the air blowers. A set with J curls in .20s and .25s was pretty common back then. I invested a lot of money in training plus my kit, and I was determined to get the hang of it. I lashed anyone and everyone who would let me. Once I felt confident enough to charge, I rented space on
Newbury Street. The area was chosen because it was affluent; and there was only one other lash establishment that I knew of. From the start, I realized that this was a specialized skill that resulted in a luxury service and needed to be priced as such. An Eyelash Extensions service menu was added to my SEO friendly website. Then I exhibited at a few local events to help get the word out. About half of my business came from word of mouth. There were many times I felt like giving up but then I stumbled upon the Wake Up In
Your Makeup message board, and it blew my mind! WUIYMU consisted of other Lash Artists who were sharing ideas, techniques and so on. I read the board from the beginning and caught up on all the lash goodness that was shared. Thank God for Wake Up in Your Makeup! Continuing Education is a huge element or ingredient to a successful Lash Artist’s career. What kind of continuing ed do you love to attend/participate in, and what direction do you hope that continuing
education studies in the US will follow and evolve into? I made a commitment to take 1 class per year, and I challenge every lash artist out there to take 1 class at least every 2 years. Our industry is ever evolving and it is important to keep challenging yourself to improve. I love attending lash conferences. I find them educational, inspiring and a great networking opportunity. As Lash Artists, we are in a relatively new industry, and should take advantage of opportunities to come together.
Lash competitions aren’t really “Continuing Education” but can be used to gain valuable feedback on your work. In addition to this, competitions are a great networking opportunity and are often scheduled at a trade show or conference. Speaking of conferences, I’d love to see more Lash Artists at conferences. There are thousands of us seeking free assistance in Facebook groups, but not many would show up for a conference. We need to take our careers and industry seriously and invest in our education.
I look forward to standards in educational courses. When I say this, I mean that the instructor has both Education and Lash Artistry training. Too many people are “training” but aren’t qualified. Perhaps there needs to be a Lash Education Symposium so that there can be an industry wide understanding of the bare minimum requirements for a lash course. If you are an established Lash Artist and cannot afford Continuing Education, there is a very good chance you are not charging enough for your services. Are you able to share a little bit (maybe a photo or two) of your favorite stylings lately? With Mega Volume, Ombre looks and the ever-popular Kim Kardashian look, would you comment on some of your most and least favorites? I just love the Everyday Volume look. Just about any client can wear it. My least favorite is Mega Volume for an
everyday look. It is just too much and I am concerned that it is being used as a strip lash replacement. When done right it is beautiful, but if we’re not careful it can evolve into the .20s and .25s of our day. On the east coast, USA, what lash styles are trending? Bold looks like the Kim K look are gaining in popularity, but clearly are not for everyone. The majority of my clients are professional women in their 40’s, and most of them prefer a “natural” look. My clients in their 20s ask usually for a dramatic look. Volume is surely gaining in popularity all along the East Coast. While we’re looking forward, do you have any special plans related to the lash business coming up? Yes, I do! I’m the co-founder of The Lash Brunch™ and super excited about it! It is a 1-day conference in Washington D.C. on
Sunday April 15th, 2018. Stay tuned as we release our wonderful lineup of industry influencers and sponsors where we will Build, Bond and Bridge over Brunch. No brunch is complete without mimosas; so of course, we’ll have those too. Pinkies up! Follow @thelashbrunch on Twitter and Instagram and like us on Facebook: Facebook.com/thelashbrunch Finally, looking back with a smile (!), what would you like to tell newer lash artists that you wish somebody had told you in the early days of your Lash Life? 1. Focus on precise application. Be patient with yourself, and remember that speed is secondary. 2. Protect your eyesight. Wear magnifying loupes every time 3. Pay attention to ventilation and always wear a protective mask. Cyanoacrylate exposure can cause occupational asthma and rhinitis. 4. Find a mentor. Pay for one if need be.
21 INTERNATIONAL JUDGES
CONTESTANTS FROM ALL OVER THE GLOBE
Our online Lash Artists International Frame to FAME Contest featured three nominations: Ombre Lash & Brow, Color Play and the Lash Art Frame to FAME: Contemporary/Modern Art.
HERE ARE OUR CELEBRATED WINNERS!
Congratulations everyone! ISSUE 2
JOANNA “PIXIE” AMBLER 1st Place Ombré Lash & Brow GRAND PRIX Champion 2017
PERTH, AUSTRALIA Pixie’s Eyelash Extensions Perth Model: Kira Andrews Photography: Upstage Photography
For my set I have chosen 4 shade of brown tones, these tones were applied on 4 different sections of the natural lash, ascending from darks to lightest, I believe the technique is called tahitian feathering. Even the bottom lashes are layered in the different shades of browns right to the golden blonde. ISSUE 2
2nd Place Ombré Lash & Brow This nomination required me to create an ombre lash and brow set (including partial brow extensions); all things I have never tried in my life, on the hardest shape of eyes to lash, Asian. With this volume set I wanted to demonstrate how eyelash extensions can change major facial features, in this case wideset Asian 66
eyes, hence I used black lashes at the inner corners and slowly blended them into the blond – throughout dark chocolate, autumn leaves, cappuccino and ginger shades. This way the eyes seem to sit a bit closer. Optical cheat. It is “revese Ombré” to achieve an optical effect.
WICKED BLINKS – LONDON, UK Lashes, Makeup, Concept: Gabriella Bagyura Model: Kyuri Photography: Adam Szigett
3rd Place Ombré Lash & Brow 68
For this ombre look I’ve used clear glue, dark brown and very light brown lashes. I tried to make a light and nice looking ombre styling. I used 0.07 D and 0.07CC lashes. For the eyebrows I used an eyebrow pencil, eyebrow shadows and golden glitter. I tried to extend the eyebrow shape and make them look like feathers. The entire face is covered with a light foundation and the lips with golden lipstick. Lovely looking ombre styling fit even for every day use or big night out.
SITTINGBOURNE, UK Beauty Poetry – Eyelash Extensions Lashes, Makeup, Concept: Erika Juodelaite Model: Tea Partridge Photography: Julius Matikas www.beautypoetry.co.uk FB: @EyelashExtensionsBeautyPoetry
VILJA BIRKELUND Color Play: Lash-Lip-Brow 1st Place Winner
For the ColorPlay category I used all Avemo colour lashes – D curls on upper lashes and B curls for the lower lashes. Thickness 0,07 and fans in mostly 6-8D. Lengths ranging from 8 to 13 mm. I absolutely loved to be able to use all my favourite colours. Makeup on brows and lips are all from my favourite makeup brand NYX – purple, and bright metallic pink and orange lipgloss – which was my inspiration for the total look. A few brighter eyeshadows used around the eyes from the metallic eyeshadowpallette from Viva la vida. I wanted to emphasise the colours I used, so I decided to paint her face, neck and chest in total black to get a huge contrast compared to my model’s pale skin. Her hair was also temporarily coloured with pink hairspray to match the look. BERGEN, NORWAY Lash Bar Lashes, Makeup, Concept and Photography: Vilja Birkelund Model: Karoline Totland Kvassheim ISSUE 2
JOANNA â€œPIXIEâ€? AMBLER
Color Play: Lash-Lip-Brow / 2nd Place Winner As a long time admirer of the peacock colour palette beauty, my heart went to that and I hope I have done it justice. 6 colours and two curls 72
were used in a textured styling. The long peaks are unfanned and the short fans 3-4D. The model had matching hair to some degree which I styled
and added to blend more. She also kept her lashes afterwards. The hand-made bottom lashes were made in a feathering style to mix and blend the colours.
PERTH, AUSTRALIA Pixie’s Eyelash Extensions Perth Lashes, Hair, Makeup and Concept: Pixie Ambler Model: Caitlin Gerken Photography: Upstage Photography
MARIE-LINE BRUSA-PASQUÉ Color Play: Lash-Lip-Brow 3rd Place Winner Impressionistic Color Play. I used 2 shades of blues, 2 shades of purple and 2 shades of pink. I put the darkest on the bottom row and the lighter on the top rows. I wanted to make an impressionist painting with my small dots. C 0.07 12mm to 8mm, brand Lashmaster. ESPRITS-DE-CORPS – MANTES-LA-JOILIE, FRANCE Lashes, Makeup, Hair, Concept & Photography: Marie-Line BrusaPasqué Model: Amaranta Kun ISSUE 2
RADMILLA WOLL Lash Art â€“ Master Category (less than 3 years experience) 1st Place Winner Fashion and art promote creativity in my everyday life. I wanted to create modern and contemporary art, a balanced composition that is energetic, simple yet complex, easy to grasp at first and yet revealing more layers and depth after continuing viewing. I also wanted to create an art that is spontaneous and candid. That is why all my arts and crafts are done at home and not in the studio. Flowers are our companions in life. They are a sign and symbol of love, sacrifice, regard, reverence, beauty and goodwill. Flowers satisfy our sense of touch, sense of sight and sense of smell. They are a gift from nature. I used paper, textile, beads and plastic for my project. I did the makeup and hair too. The pictures are done by photographer. I did Volume set lashes. I used Synthetic mink 0.07mm CC curl 8-14mm. The learning and growth goal is why I decide to participate in this Art competition.
EYELASH EXTENSIONS â€“ SOLANA BEACH Lashe, Hair, Makeup and Concept: Radmila Woll Model: Neli Ivanova Photography: Lara Calcara
THAO LY “JULIE” NGYUEN
Lash Art – Master Category (less than 3 years experience) 2nd Place Winner 78
I titled this work ‘UnZIP the Inner Beauty’. The inspiration is contrasting the beauty within against the blankness of the outer self. There is beauty within that we miss out on due to our busy lives. Once we notice a crack in the zipper, we finally spend time unzipping the ‘what if’, exposing the greatness and beauty from within.
Lashes, Makeup, Concept: Julie Nguyen Model: Dalia Wynn Photography: Andrew Ho IG: @julielashes_17
Lashes: Vismante Vaisvilaite Model: Zydrune Bakenskaite Photography: Karoline Cerneviciene
Lash Art â€“ Master Level (less than 3 years experience) 3rd Place Winner
JOANNA ”PIXIE” AMBLER Lash Art – Master Category (less than 3 years experience) 1st Place Winner
“Contemporary Surrealism” A bird represents freedom of a dreamer so in this piece I have tried to show what most artists are like. That girl’s got her head in the clouds, she’s a dreamer but bound by reality, time and responsibilities. The pink in the cloud is to represent a feminine dreamer. I have chosen 3 shade of pink and done a mega volume set to show the extreme art of lashing. 8-13mm, 8-15 per fan properly fanned out with removal straight afterwards. I hand-made lash birds out of lashes for the embellishments. Gold spray painted birdcage is suspended via a pole across a ladder and chandelier to keep in place, as we start to set up the candles on the hand painted frame are lit. As it melts, this will create the look of bird excrement. I hope this gave you a little insight.
PIXIE’S EYELASH EXTENSIONS – PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA Lashes, Hair, Makeup and Concept: Pixie Ambler Model: Kira Andrews Photography: Upstage Photography
VILJA BIRKELUND Lash Art Expert 2nd Place Winner RyBurk Tribute BERGEN, NORWAY â€“ LASH BAR Lashes, Makeup, Concept and Photography: Vilja Birkelund Model: Rudi-Andre Nilson
ERIKA JUODELAITE Lash Art – Expert Nomination (over 3 years of experience)
3rd Place Winner
My inspiration for this nomination was Matthew Barney and his ‘’The Cremaster Cycle’’. The Cremaster Cycle is somewhere in between a traditional film and an art installation. It’s a self enclosed aesthetic system consisting of five feature - length films that explore process of creation. The project was rife with anatomical allusions to the position of the reproductive organs during the embryonic process of sexual differentiation. For model I used yellow, orange, red and dark purple volume lashes. The top lashes I made quite big volume and decorated with some metallic accessories. I attached a few different prosthetics: latex nose and latex ears, then covered the entire face with grime, using dark purple lipstick and black pencil on top. My model’s hair was covered with washable red hair wax, and I attached a dried lemon. Model dressed in white shirt and suit vest.
BEAUTY POETRY, EYELASH EXTENSIONS – SITTINGBOURNE, UK Lashes, Makeup, Concept: Erika Juodelaite Model: Ryan Mowforth Photography: Natalia Walton www.beautypoetry.co.uk FB: @EyelashExtensionsBeautyPoetry ISSUE 2
5 APPS Every Lash Entrepreneur Should Have BY ALLIE WILLIAMS / CLASSIC AND VOLUME TRAINER FOR LASH AFFAIR BY J. PARIS • OWNER OF ILASH CHARLOTTE IN CHARLOTTE, NC
Apps are not just for AIRBRUSH Use this app to take your photos to a whole new mindless scrolling level. From covering blemishes and dark circles, to erasing a stray brow hair that you can’t stop through social media. at, this app can do it all. You can even There are a plethora of staring crop and filter your pics to make sure that your stays consistent with the vibe you want apps out there that help style to create. As many clients are coming to you you to build your brand, completely free of makeup, they will appreciate taking the time to help them look their best test your skills, and grow you while making your lash work stand out as the focal point. your knowledge. Here Available from Google Play and in App Store for free. are my top five apps that I think every lash HEADSPACE entrepreneur should As for lash artists, it’s hard to get a minute to yourself to relax. But the consequences of not have. taking time for yourself will be detrimental to your health and well-being. Being a whole
and healthy person will help you to produce better work and bring positive energy to your clients and coworkers. Meditation is one way to practice self-love and set good intentions. According to scientific research “Mindfulness meditation activates the ‘REST AND DIGEST’ part of our nervous system which helps with stress management.” You can even set a reminder through the app to alert you of when it’s time to take a break and get meditating. Available from Google Play and in the App Store. Free for the first 10 days, then monthly plans starting at $6.99.
There’s nothing harder than keeping up with posting on social media. For maximum engagement, you should post once a day and always think quality over quantity. Take Instagram for example. Your page should look like a wellcurated gallery, not a mod podge of pictures with no clear vision or storyline. But how can you organize your posts on IG? Enter Planoly, the app that allows you to drag and drop photos in different squares on your grid until you are satisfied with the overall look of the page. Once your posts are how you want them, you can write a caption and even schedule when you want it to go live on Instagram. Talk about social media made easy! Available from Google Play and the App Store, free up to 30 uploads a month. Unlimited uploads start at $7/month.
So there you have it, my top five apps that every lash entrepreneur should have. Do you use any of these apps? What are some of your favorites that aren’t listed here? Let us know!
The Venmo app is Paypal’s solution to the “I forgot my wallet” problem. If the client forgets their wallet or one of your coworkers picks up your coffee, just open up the app on your phone, find the person by name or email, enter the amount owed, send, and you’re done. No fees and no excuses! The receiver will get an alert of the transaction and can keep the balance in the app for future purchases or transfer it straight to their bank account. You can also view your friend’s transactions which seems creepy but can be quite entertaining, trust me. Available in Google Play and the App Store for free.
Edit videos with ease using this app from GoPro. You can make cuts, edit speed and choose from a wide variety of royalty-free songs. Great for making tutorials, facebook videos for your business, or even for compiling memories from your most recent trip. You’ll be able to create highquality videos that will get you noticed. Available from Google Play and the App Store for free.
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Lash Inc USA / Canada Issue 2