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thesanantonioriverwalk.com
Tamales are the original “to-go” food of the Americas. The name comes from the ancient Nahuatl language meaning wrapped food. They were used by travelers and hunting groups. Water tamales (served without any spices) were eaten during Aztec festivals honoring the corn god. Aztec tamales fillings included turkey, flamingo, frog, gopher, rabbit, fish, turkey eggs, honey, fruits, squash, and beans, or with no filling at all and no added fat. Tamales became popular in the U.S. around 1900 when African Americans adopted the food from Mexican migrant workers in cotton and sugar cane fields. Called “red hots,” they were a popular street food in cities from New Orleans to Chicago and New York. Blues legend Robert Johnson (who recorded many of his songs in Room 414 of San Antonio’s historic Sheraton Gunter Hotel, wrote a hit song about “They’re Red Hot.” The late President Gerald Ford is remembered in San Antonio for his “Great Tamale Goof,” During a visit to the city, he eagerly bit into a tamale in front of journalists and photographers – without removing the corn husk. At a White House celebration of Mexico’s Cinco de Mayo holiday, President Barak Obama told guests that Mexican food is Michelle Obama’s favorite cuisine. “You do not want to get between Michelle and a tamale,” he added. “Nixtamalization” is the traditional practice of preparing the masa. Corn is cooked and soaked in a solution of lime that loosens the hull, softening the kernel and boosting nutrition. While most tamales are steamed, they can be boiled, grilled, fried, barbecued, or roasted. Guanajuato, a region in Mexico, make tamales de muerto (tamales for the dead) of blue corn for Day of the Dead altar offerings. In Oaxaca, the region’s famous black mole spice is a common ingredient, as is iguana meat. In the Huasteca region, tamales made for sharing are called zacahuil, which can be up to 10 feet long and weigh 100 pounds. That was pre-Covid, of course. Modern chefs have shown great creativity. One fancy L.A. eatery features Tokyo tamales with ahi tuna in ponzu and Shanghai tamales with duck and bok choy. How about the Jewish tamale with whitefish mousse and smoked salmon? And who can resist a solid chocolate dessert tamale?
RIO Magazine
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