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LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals

August 2012


Makeup with the Éminence difference: good for your skin and good for the earth. Get the secret to natural, glowing skin with The Organic Beauty Collection of natural, organic and mineral cosmetics from Éminence. This vitamin-rich, paraben free collection filled with natural and organic ingredients is exactly what you need to protect your skin and show off a healthy glow. You deserve to treat your skin to the best so let Éminence help you find your Organic Beauty!

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Now with Organic Kiss Lip Glosses and Antioxidant Mineral Foundation!


For more details on all available shades, visit our website at Proudly free of parabens, SLS and other harsh chemicals. Not tested on animals. Available in select fine spas, salons and resorts.




N U M BE R 8


Vichy Shower therapeutic aqua treatment page 70

Back Acne 27 Bring on the Males28 Pseudofolliculitis Barbae 31 Waiting for Mr. Client 34 Grooming the Man 40 Today’s Man 44 Skin News 47


Reel in Guests With Amazing Spa Packages! 49 The Heart of the Matter58 How Man Friendly Is Your Spa? 64 Vichy Shower 70 Spa News 73

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae the best ingredients to use and avoid page 31

organic & wellness Wellness for Male Clients Handsome From Within98 Centre for Well-Being 101 Weighing in on Men’s Health 104 Organic & Wellness News 107

Smooth Moves marketing to males page 92


6 Essential Steps to Attract and Retain Male Clients 75 Beyond the Shave76 Be Prosperous 80 Owner’s Corner: BBraxton Men’s Salon, Harlem, NY Air Smooth Moves Biz News

Handsome From Within health and vitality for men page 98 84 86 92 95

Au’ Natural for Men page 111



Behind the Scenes 109 Au’ Natural for Men111 Hand Health 116 Image News 121


From the Editor 6 Spa of the Month: Canyon Ranch SpaClub, Las Vegas, NV 9 Preview: The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach, CA21 The Modern Man 50 Calendar of Events 124 Advertisers’ Index 130


courtesy of Franck Provost

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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LABELLE PROFESSIONAL SKINCARETreatments • Equipment • Education

Perfecting your esthetic services...

from the



NEW GENERATION OF EXFOLIATING ACIDS for all skin types - to be incorporated into every facial, rejuvenating treatment and corrective procedure!  ALPHA-ECO PEEL Ideal blend of acids for maximum, well-tolerated brightening; includes Glycolic, Lactic, Phytic, Kojic and Azelaic Retinol and botanical lighteners boost lightening and brightening.  LACTO-BERRY PLUS PEEL Non-irritating 30% Lactic, Salicylic, Malic, Tartaric and Citric Acid blend. Powerful antioxidants Resveratrol, Pomegranate, Goji Berry and Bilberry combat inflammation, calm reddened complexion fight free radical damage.  COMPLEXION RESTORATIVE PEEL (mandelic, malic, phytic acids) A gentle none irritating phytobioactive peel for all skin types. Provides antibacterial, antioxidant, and cellular support. Accelerates cell turnover while providing skin lightening.

U GUST IS THE MONTH WHEN MEN TAKE center stage here at LNE & Spa! With the upswing in services and spa treatments tailored to men, it is only fitting that we dedicate an entire month just to them! Throughout the industry, spas that cater to men are gaining momentum. Men are quickly teaming up with spas, where they appreciate the benefits of an environment where they can learn to manage their stress and create a better lifestyle. Men are realizing that spas are not just pampering palaces for women, but actually the first stop on the journey to wellness. Mel Zuckerman, founder of the now renowned Canyon Ranch Spas, turned to a spa himself years ago when his own health was failing. He found more than just an improvement to his personal wellness—he found his life calling. Read his story in this month’s Spa of the Month feature, “Spa Mecca in the Desert,” by yours truly on page 9. The man-tastic trend of spa-ing is showing no signs of slowing down. Men are increasingly seeking out grooming tips, business manicures, facials and waxing as they realize that this trend is not all about vanity, but rather a vital part of being taken seriously in today’s competitive business world. But the reasons behind men’s growing interest in the spa world don’t stop there! Health is very important to the male guest as well, so it is essential to include treatments and services with clearly defined health-related features and benefits. If you are looking for ways to expand your business, adding masculine services and treatments to your menu and male products to your retail selection is a must if you haven’t done so already. For some of the best cutting-edge skin care and spa products, check out our special custom photo feature on page 50, “The Modern Man.” Be professional at all times in your relationships with male guests, and you can rest assured that they will become loyal clients. Men today genuinely appreciate grooming and health tips, as well as the therapeutic treatments that a results-driven spa can offer! n

—Denise R. Fuller,

Toll Free: 888.200.3977 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #180 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) 305.443.2322 Worldwide fax 305.443.1664 e-mail: Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand Editor in Chief Denise R. Fuller Art Director Sacha Smith Assistant Editor Amanda Clinton Winter Director of Sales Danni Boucher Marketing Director Christèle de La Haye Conference Coordinator Laura G. Bazo Exhibitor Operations Assistant Mayli Bueno International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Rob Trow • Ben Johnson, M.D. Lake Louise • Nina Curtis • Diane Buccola

Contributors Brenda Braxton Andrew Cripps Biba de Sousa Gena Flores Denise R. Fuller Celeste Hilling Camille Hoheb Eli Jones

Janet McCormick Danne Montague-King Douglas Preston Cassandra Rafuse Lyn Ross Robert Sachs Jonathan Selzer, Ph.D. Louis Silberman

Dori Soukup Pamela Springer Kathryn Stolle David Suzuki Lisa Sykes Pamela Taylor Noreen Young Tina Zillmann

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #228 on reader service card

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012




Mel and Enid Zuckerman

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

HEALTH AND WELLNESS ARE PRECIOUS, AND IT IS A REAL WAKE up call for most people when the body starts to decline! Today there are many opportunities to regain your health and live life to the fullest. Years ago, many men felt that they did not have the necessary resources to change their health, but only to accept its decline. They would have laughed at the idea of going to a spa or health retreat. For one man, however, his personal health challenges became his life calling! This man became a pioneer for all men and women who wanted to make radical changes in their health and their lives. On New Year’s Day of 1978, Mel Zuckerman was overweight, stressed out, had high blood pressure and was struggling with a myriad of other health problems. He made a resolution to lose 40 pounds. But by early March, he had only gained more weight, and was desperate to find help for a lifetime of health problems. He fled to a “fat farm” in California, where he found it difficult to be taken seriously surrounded by all the women in leotards. However, with his own health at risk, he knew he had to make changes within himself if he if wanted to continue to live. Realizing the importance of taking control of his health and life, Mel soon decided that a facility needed to be created that would help men and women understand the importance of health, fitness, wellness and spa services, a place that would partner with professionals to make real changes in people’s lives. Up to this point, nobody had been successful in creating a co-ed health retreat. Mel’s wife Enid had long believed that Tucson, AZ would be a good place for a wellness spa, and urged her husband—who was a home continues • Page 9

spa of the month|canyon ranch spaclub

Canyon Ranch embraces and encourages guests to enjoy the aquathermal experience. This all inclusive water treatment alleviates muscle and joint problems, assists the detoxification process and promotes deeper relaxation.

developer—to build one. This idea, coupled with their passion for sharing the concept of healthy living, resulted in the creation of the iconic brand Canyon Ranch, which opened its doors in December of 1979. Mel says that they built Canyon Ranch to be the perfect place for guests to put things into perspective, reset priorities and contemplate new opportunities. “The transformative resort stay has always been and always will be at the center of our business,” he explains. “But our mission—to inspire in each person a commitment to healthy living, and provide the tools and knowledge to turn intentions into reality—continues to drive us to expand our offerings in new and thrilling directions. The SpaClub concept incorporates some aspects of the wellness offerings of the resorts while giving casual visitors a taste of the warmth, serenity and comfort of Canyon Ranch.” This couple is serious about making an impact on the way consumers view their health choices within the walls of their spa.

Build it and they will come The first couple of years in Tuscon were challenging for Canyon Ranch, as is typical with most new ventures. But over time, health consciousness exploded, and it became famous and extraordinarily successful. With their business partner Jerry

women’s relaxation area

Cohen, the Zuckermans opened another Canyon Ranch in Lenox, MA in 1989, followed by Canyon Ranch Living in Miami Beach, with the adjacent Canyon Ranch Hotel & Spa in 2008. For each resort, they renovated, remodeled and enhanced a historic property in a beautiful natural setting: The Zuckermans apply their steadfast belief in the power of positive change to each Canyon Ranch property, as well as to the innovative services they create. They continue to pioneer their vision, and in 1999 they opened the first Canyon Ranch SpaClub at the Venetian Resort and Hotel in Las Vegas, NV. They also set sail on Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Canyon Ranch has been continues Experiential Rains

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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THE inTErnaTional congrEss of EsTHETics and spa

Presented by:

Endorsed by:

THE MosT ExquisiTE skin carE & spa EvEnT in THE indusTry

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia is about working together and sharing our knowledge, helping one another to reach new levels of success. The two-day event offers the unique opportunity to attend cutting-edge career-boosting lectures and demonstrations, interact with our platform of associations, mingle with your peers at networking events and walk an exhibit floor flooded with hundreds of the best new and well established companies showcasing the latest trends and products!


2-day all-inclusive admission $75 when you register after 10/5/12


1-day all-inclusive admission $50 when you register after 10/5/12

ALL-INCLUSIVE ADMISSION INCLUDES: • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Green Spa Network Professional Development • In-Depth Makeup Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Medical Esthetics Seminar • Medical Spa Business Seminar • NASN - National Aesthetics Spa Network • AIA - Aesthetics International Association • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall including the Wellness & Organic Pavilion • The Green Spa Network Village • Networking Event presented by The Spa Buzz

C ON TAC T U S TODAY F OR YOU R C OM PL I M E N TA RY C ONG R E S S PRO G R A M : 1 . 8 0 0 . 4 7 1 . 0 2 2 9 • W W W. L N E ON L I N E . C OM • Re g i s t r at i on @ L N E ON L I N E . C OM 3929 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL 33134 USA: 305.443.2322• FAX: 305.443.1664 Scan here to see all the details!

Find us on facebook and twitter!


Other therapies offered at Canyon Ranch include ashiatsu, aromatherapy, cupping, neuromuscular, reflexology, shiatsu and Thai massage, along with energy services such as reiki.

at the forefront of expanding the concept of a comprehensive professional approach to health, with a staff that includes registered dieticians, board-certified physicians, exercise physiologists, licensed massage therapists, estheticians and other highly skilled, caring staff in order to provide guests with every possible resource.

The oasis in the desert Canyon Ranch Spa Club in Las Vegas is considered to be one of the world’s largest day spas, covering an impressive 134,000 square-feet, which services The Venetian and the Palazzo Resort hotel. This spa haven is a great getaway for any vacationer, high roller or Vegas local to visit. Guests can relax, refresh and regroup between forays into the world’s liveliest nonstop city. This state of the art spa has facilities that include more than 100 daily offerings of massage, skin care and body treatments, nutritional counseling, a fitness center, a 40-foot indoor rock-climbing wall, movement therapy and Pilates studio, cycling gym, Kinese TM studio, locker rooms, relaxation lounges, two restaurants, a salon, bridal suite, barber suite and North America’s only Aquavana®.

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They have 82 massage rooms, 12 facial rooms and over 400 employees. The spa is open daily from 5:30 a.m to 10 p.m. Canyon Ranch is a leader in developing new ways to maintain health and vibrancy, preventing illness and treating chronic health conditions. It employs many talented physicians, such as Vice Chairman Richard Carmona, M.D., who was the seventeenth Surgeon General of the United States from 2002-2006. Dr. Carmona collaborates with all of the caring health professionals to provide a personalized approach to wellness, and to be able to tailor a health care program that suits the individual needs of the guest.

A day experience Guests who just want to enjoy the amenities of this amazing spa can do so by requesting a day pass to indulge in theAQUAVANA® experience. This is a European-inspired water world filled with thermal spa cabins, experiential spas, cold rooms and aqua thermal bathing experiences. While many spas are eliminating water therapies, Canyon Ranch embraces them and encourages continues Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012





877.898.MALE [6253]

| |



4 MEN Facebook is a registered trademark of Facebook, Inc. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #315 on reader service card

spa of the month|canyon ranch spaclub

Following the service, the therapist offers a colored deck of Healthy Living cards for the client to choose from. The guest selects whichever one they are drawn to, and the theory is that this card represents the meditation or positive reminder that they needed.

guests to enjoy the aqua-thermal experience. This all inclusive water treatment alleviates muscle and joint problems, assists the detoxification process and promotes deeper relaxation. The co-ed space includes three rooms: the conservatory, the relaxation space and the wave room. This space provides a multi-sensory experience simulating the look, smell and feel of breaking waves under a domed canopy. The following rooms provide a range of relaxing experiences for guests at Canyon Ranch Spa Club, NV. Salt Grotto: Sea air washes over heated benches and intimate seating niches surrounding a fountain bubbling over natural salt rocks. In each male and female relaxation area, the therapy continues in a clothing optional setting. Crystal Steam Room: A cleansing, aromatic steam environment that features a large central crystal to inspire and focus meditation. Experiential Rains: Invigorating, multi-sensory cooling showers. Finnish Sauna: A classic dry-heat sauna environment lit by colored light. Herbal Laconium: Provides gentle warming of the body through herbal infused steam. HydroSpa: A variety of massage fountains surrounded by radiant lounge chairs designed for relaxation provide a gentle massage.

Healthy Living cards

Igloo: A cool air emporium and three experiences are enhanced by twinkling fiber optics. The spa offers guests fresh fruit, water and teas for additional hydration and enjoyment as they splash and relax in this hydro-haven following their treatments!

Traditional spa therapies and so much more No day spa would be complete without the signature relaxation massage, which is offered for either 50 or 80 minutes. This service relieves muscle tension and allows the therapist to adapt their modalities to customize the service for the guest. Other therapies offered at Canyon Ranch include ashiatsu, aromatherapy, cupping, neuromuscular, reflexology, shiatsu and Thai massage, continues Herbal Laconium

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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spa of the month|canyon ranch spaclub

along with energy services such as reiki. The guest has a multitude of options to choose from, and if they are not sure about how to decide, they can request to speak to a guest service relations representative about treatment options. Following the service, the therapist offers a colored deck of Healthy Living cards for the client to choose from. The guest selects whichever one they are drawn to, and the theory is that this card represents the meditation or positive reminder that they needed. The inspirational quotes on the card may advise the guest not to become overwhelmed, but to breathe during the day. Or it could be a simple reminder that age is not an excuse for inactivity. The guest keeps this meditative treasure as a reminder of their visit to Canyon Ranch.

Palazzo entry onyx wall

Facials The classic European facial is a rejuvenating and luxurious treatment. However, the offerings are many, and the estheticians are trained with top of the line products and equipment from all over the world. From microdermabrasion to microcurrent, an 18 carat facial to lymphatic drainage, clients experience the ultimate in esthetic services, and can enjoy any treatment either on their own or with someone special by their side in the dual treatment rooms.

Special services The Barber Suite combines traditional luxury with a deep respect for both personal and environmental health to create the ultimate shaving and grooming experience. Services offered in the Barber Suite include traditional straight razor shaves, beard trims, head shaves, haircuts, hair coloring, manicures and pedicures. This private atmosphere is designed specifically for men, and allows direct access to the men’s locker room and lounge area. Complimenting the exclusivity of services offered, male guests have access to a large screen television, wireless Internet, video game console and BluRay video discs. A selection of international newspapers is available for guests to read between services. As a complement to Canyon Ranch’s bridal party services, the private Barber Suite is a welcome haven for any groom and his groomsmen on the big day. Canyon Ranch provides a broad range of wellness services that even includes nutritional counseling. Rounding out their wellness offercontinues Page 18 •

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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spa of the month|canyon ranch spaclub ings is the unique Healthy Feet™ center, developed in partnership with Dr. Glenn Copeland, author of The Foot Book and The Foot Doctor. The center is devoted to advanced treatment for the feet. Foot experts provide an analysis of gait and foot mechanics. This complete evaluation of the feet includes a recommendation of proper footwear and orthotic inserts for the shoes if needed. The experts assert that with proper footwear, many physical problems can be corrected. This service is recommended to guests suffering from aches and pains, anywhere from the foot to the lower back. Anyone who has “flat feet,” “high arches,” pain in the feet, ankles, knees, calves, hips or chronic pain due to athletic activity can find help at the Healthy Feet Center. For more than 30 years, Mel Zuckerman’s vision of health and wellness has been beautifully executed down to the finest detail. For the couple behind this world class spa, their commitment to helping guests make incremental, lasting changes to their lifestyle is their number one priority. In a city known for its fast paced culture and 24-hour party atmosphere, Canyon Ranch SpaClub in Las Vegas is a treasured oasis of health and wellness. n Denise R. Fuller is the editor-in-chief of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She is an Australian certified beauty therapist and a licensed esthetician, nail technician and body wrapping instructor in the state of Florida. She has trained spa professionals around the world, owned a skin care distribution company and been recognized by Cambridge Who’s Who. Fuller founded the National Aesthetic Spa Network, and she is passionate about building relationships, developing partnerships, mentoring and networking to create a stronger industry.

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Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photos courtesy of Canyon Ranch SpaClub

rock climbing wall

the international congress of esthetics and spa




Presented by:



SAVE WHEN YOU REGISTER BY 08/17/12 2-day admission is $75 after 08/17/12 1-day admission is $50 after 08/17/12 • All General Session Lectures and Demos • Medical Spa Business Seminar • Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Cutting Edge Salon/Spa Business Seminar • Medical Esthetics Seminar • In-Depth Makeup Seminar • Green Spa Network, Day Spa Association & The Spa Buzz Business Education & Networking Program • AIA-Aesthetics International Association • NASN-National Aesthetics Spa Network • All Manufacturers’ Workshops • Exhibit Hall including the Wellness & Organic Pavilion • The Green Spa Network Village



PHONE: 1.800.471.0229 1.305.443.2322 ONLINE: E-MAIL:





Aesthetic Congress Communications 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, FL 33134

Show hours: Sunday, September 9 from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Monday, September 10 from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Long Beach Convention Center 300 East Ocean Blvd. Long Beach, CA 90802

Sponsored by:

CONTACT US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE SHOW PROGRAM: WWW.LNEONLINE.COM or 1.800.471.0229 / 1.305.443.2322 Endorsed by:

S c an here to s e e al l the detai ls!

hotel & traVel inforMation Holiday inn downtown long Beach









MODERATE Located 1 mile from the Convention Center Courtesy shuttle to and from the Convention Center Rate includes continental breakfast










FIRST CLASS EUROPEAN STyLE BOUTIQUE Locatesd 4 Blocks from the Convention Center Rate includes continental breakfast

CoURTyaRd by MaRRioTT









MODERATE FIRST CLASS Located 4 blocks from the Convention Center










MODERATE DELUXE Located across the street from the Convention Center










DELUXE Located 2 blocks from the Convention Center










DELUXE Adjacent to the Convention Center

RESERVE yoUR HoTEl Visit our website: E-mail:

Tel: 1.305.443.2322 US: 1.800.471.0229 Fax: 1.305.443.1664

All rates are PER NIGHT – Plus 15% room tax. Congress rates are subject to availability. CanCEllaTion PEnalTiES: $50 cancellation fee if reservations are cancelled after August 24, 2012. Full one night deposit if cancelled after September 31, 2012. Cancellation penalties are STRICTLy ENFORCED.

aiRlinE RESERVaTionS & CaR REnTal To make your airline reservations at the best possible airfare contact Vivian P. Lodeiro at or call Express Travel at: 305.341.1200 ext 256. TaXiCaB SERViCE Taxis are available from airport baggage claim area to hotels and the Convention Center.

Fares from Los Angeles International Airport to hotels and the Convention Center are approximately $60.00 each way. Fares from Long Beach International Airport to hotels and the Convention Center are approximately $20.00 each way.

aiRPoRT SHUTTlE SERViCES Shuttle transportation from the airport to your hotel is available via SuperShuttle at 1.800.258.3826. Make your roundtrip reservation by following this link: group code 24QKZ The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Long Beach 2012

general session & seMinars


sunday – septeMBer 9 general session located inside the exhiBit hall 10:00 a.m. 10:15 a.m. 11:00 a.m. 11:30 a.m. 12:15 p.m. 12:45 p.m.

Opening Ceremony by Nina Curtis How Can I Have Acne and Wrinkles at the Same Time? (LECTURE/DEMO) by Elaine Linker Melanogenesis and the Pigmentation Response (LECTURE) by Joan Tomeu, R.N. Mysterious Ceylon Massage (DEMO) by Natalia Sotelo The Science of the Senses (LECTURE) by Lydia Sarfati Flawless Age Reducing Makeup in Minutes (DEMO) by Buntricia Bastian

Medical spa Business seMinar rooM 104-c 2:00 p.m. 3:30 p.m.

Profitability = Sustainability: Understanding and Using Financial Information to Grow Your Business by Monte Zwang The Fusion of Spa and Wellness (Panel discussion)

Panelists: Monte Zwang, Patti Biro, Alma Bocanegra and Harry Fallick D.O.

salon/spa Business ManageMent seMinar rooM 203-c 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

Which Role are you Playing? Entrepreneur? Manager? Technician? Learn to do Them ALL Effectively!! by Deb Hunt Salon/Spa Retailing by Deb Hunt

national aesthetics spa netWorK rooM 202-c 4:00 p.m.

Speed Round Tables - Moderator: Denise R. Fuller Hot Marketing Ideas by Diane Buccola Getting Your Passion Back! by Kaffee Keldie Don’t Get Burned in Business by Mary Turner Sizzling Spa Services by Gena Flores

Both sunday & Monday - septeMBer 9 & 10 Business education & netWorKing prograM Brought to you by Green Spa Network, Day Spa Association & The Spa Buzz Sunday education is customized for Day Spa Owners/Managers Monday education is customized for Hotel & Resort Spa Directors/Managers 10:00 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 11:30 a.m. 11:30 a.m. 12:30 p.m. 12:30 p.m. 1:00 p.m. 1:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m.

Start the day with light refreshments, compliments of The Spa Buzz Spa Operations: How to be Efficient, Effective and Profitable by Rianna Riego Skin Care That is Results-Oriented … and Healthy by Mike Bruggeman 7 Habits of Highly Effective Retailers by Patti Biro Do You Have the Correct Insurance by Ian Sterling How To Grow & Increase Your Profit by Monte Zwang Using Email & Social Media by Sam Hennes Marketing in Today’s Spa Environment by Mike Bruggeman and Rianna Riego Eye-Popping, Money Making Retail by Peter Plishka Building Your Best Spa Business by Kristi Konieczny

aesthetics international association (aia) rooM 204 sunday, septeMBer 9 2:00 p.m. 4:00 p.m.

How to Grow Your Skin Care Practice by Douglas Preston Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Ingredients - What Really Works and What Doesn’t by Dr. Jennifer Linder

Monday, septeMBer 10 2:00 p.m.

Lymph Drainage and Compression Therapy by Dr. Reinhard R. Bergel

Monday – septeMBer 10 general session located inside the exhiBit hall

10:20 a.m. 10:30 a.m. 11:15 a.m. 11:45 a.m. 12:30 p.m. 1:00 p.m.

Welcome Ceremony by Nina Curtis Oncology Facial (DEMO) by Danielle Wachowski Concierge Esthetics (LECTURE) by Tina Zillmann A Touch of Thai (DEMO) by Gena Flores Ultrasonic, Ultrasound: Technology for the Spa (LECTURE) by Judith Culp Manscaping Musts: Waxing the Ears, Nose, Brows and Mankini (LECTURE/DEMO) by Crickett Enos

cutting-edge salon/spa Business seMinar rooM 104-c 2:00 p.m. 3:30 p.m.

Special Events Marketing: A Key to Sales Success! by Patti Biro 360 Degree Marketing (PANEL DISCUSSION) Moderator: Karla Nelson Panelists: Karla Nelson, Patti Biro and Sam Hennes

Medical esthetics seMinar rooM 203-B 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m.

The Next Step in Your Career, From Salon to Working With a Physician by Susanne S. Warfield Emergency Medical Care for Your Salon & Spa by Susanne S. Warfield

The COA has approved these classes for 1 CE each

in-depth MaKeup seMinar rooM 203-a 2:00 p.m. 3:15 p.m. 4:30 p.m.

Multi-Ethnic Makeover by Aliesh Pierce Add Revenue to any Service With Mini-Makeup Applications by M. Calabresa-Echelard From Frame to Fringe: All About the Eyes by Pamela Hackeman

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Long Beach 2012

Manufacturer WorKshops s u n d a y septeMBer 9


2:00 p.M. to 3:15 p.M. RooM 101-a

KollaGEnX KollagenX - 24KT nano Gold—all That Glitters in anti-aging is Gold by Rikki Kusy

RooM 101-B

HydRoPEPTidE® Peptides, Stem Cell Growth Factors Class—don’t be left Behind! by Cassie Miller-Hart

RooM 102-a

REPêCHaGE® Peel and Reveal! Repêchage introduces - BioliGHT™ by Lydia Sarfati

RooM 102-B

CiRCadia By dR. PUGliESE Peptide Technology by Michael Q. Pugliese

RooM 102-C

a naTURal diFFEREnCE™ Fruit acid Enzyme Peels With lactic acid: Results-oriented Treatments by Irene Stuckey

RooM 103-a

oSMoSiS PüR MEdiCal SKin CaRE The Permanent Solution for Most Hyperpigmentation by Ben Johnson, M.D.

RooM 103-B

HydRaFaCial™ - EdGE SySTEMS CoRP. How Will your Business Compete in This Ever Changing Market? by Kevin Mendell

RooM 103-C

PCa SKin® Chemical Peeling: Safe and Effective options for all Skin Types by Joan Tomeu, R.N.

RooM 104-a

ÉMinEnCE oRGaniC SKin CaRE Master the Hungarian Massage Techniques for the instant Facelift (Hands-on demonstration Master Class) by Boldijarre Koronczay

RooM 104-B

PHySiodERMiE METHodE (dERME.Ca) Sun damage and Hyperpigmentation (Melasma) of the Face by Michael Ibbott

RooM 201-a

dEPilèVE and anESi By diVi inTERnaTional depilève Strip and Stripless Waxing Class by Deanna Henderson

RooM 201-B

SMooTH SKin SUPPly Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes

RooM 202-a

RHonda alliSon® Take the acne Challenge! by Rhonda Allison

RooM 202-B

MaRTinni BEaUTy, inC. Cell Wave Microcurrent With lEd Photodynamic Therapy by Lana Yu

RooM 202-C

dR. JEFF SKin CaRE / BEaUTy aTTiCa, inC. BioMVP: When the East Meets the West by Moises Estrada

RooM 203-a

dERMaWaRE® Bio-TaRGETEd SKin CaRE The Peel Experts®: Which Peel is Best? by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone

RooM 203-C

dERMaTUdE The Power of Permanent Beauty: an introduction to Permanent Cosmetics by Terri Folker

3:45 p.M. to 5:00 p.M. RooM 101-a

liGHTSTiM™ lEd light Therapy: Results and Rewards by Amy Gardner

RooM 101-B

MESoESTETiC USa® Hyperpigmentation: Success Before, during and after by Dawn Clifford

RooM 102-a

M’liS CoMPany® detoxifying Slimming Wrap That Erases Four to Fourteen inches in one Hour! by Taryn Maughan

RooM 102-B

linaGE SKin CaRE How to Perform Medical Grade acne Treatments in your office by Michael Lin, M.D.

RooM 102-C

THE WaX CHiCK Brazilians and Brows: The Buck Starts Here by Crickett “The Wax Chick”

RooM 103-a

SPaWaRE SoFTWaRE Using Social Media With automated Marketing and the Easy Five-Step Selling Process by Blake Rector

RooM 103-B

ViTEllE laBS Private label: The Best Business decision you Can Ever Make! by Aleks Vranicic

RooM 103-C

PCa SKin® Rejuvenation of the aging Face by Joan Tomeu, R.N.

RooM 104-a

ÉMinEnCE oRGaniC SKin CaRE newest Trends and Techniques in natural Skin Care! (Hands-on demonstration Master Class) by Boldijarre Koronczay

RooM 104-B

TECniCHE™ The Skin Challenge Spectrum ... Where do your Clients Fall? by Kris Campbell

RooM 201-a

dEPilèVE and anESi By diVi inTERnaTional Parafango Therapy Treatment by Ruth Maldonado

RooM 201-B

aESTHETiCS PlUS advanced i Peel you Profit by Metaxia Dalikas

RooM 202-a

RHonda alliSon® Chemical Exfoliation and Hyperpigmentation: achieve the Most for your Clients’ Skin by Rhonda Allison

RooM 202-B

SoFTaP PERManEnT CoSMETiCS Painless Permanent Makeup? by Victoria Velazquez

RooM 203-a

nUFaCE lift. Tone. Sculpt. Experience the nuFaCE® “5 Minute Face-lift” by Stacy Streeter

RooM 203-C

nElly dE VUyST (dERME.Ca) ndV Bul’Mask facial. 5 Facials in onE! by Karina Geoffroy

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Long Beach 2012

Manufacturer WorKshops Monday septeMBer 10


2:00 p.M. to 3:15 p.M. RooM 101-a

dERMaWaRE® Bio-TaRGETEd SKin CaRE ayurvedic Peels: age, Pigment, acne, Rosacea Control by Robert M. Zone, Ph.D. and Gül Ç. Zone

RooM 101-B

GloBal SKin SolUTionS don’t be afraid of the dark: Causes and Corrections for Hyperpigmentation by Pamela R. Springer

RooM 102-a

M’liS CoMPany The Candida Solution by Linda T. Nelson, Ph.D.

RooM 102-B

CiRCadia By dR. PUGliESE Pigmentation disorders: Causes and Treatments by Michael Q. Pugliese

RooM 102-C

THE WaX CHiCK Brazilians and Brows: The Buck Starts Here by Crickett “The Wax Chick”

RooM 103-a

oSMoSiS PüR MEdiCal SKinCaRE Timeless aging: Remarkable Scientific Breakthroughs Make it Possible by Ben Johnson, M.D.

RooM 103-B

ViTEllE laBS Private label: The Best Business decision you Can Ever Make! by Aleks Vranicic

RooM 103-C

PCa SKin® Skin Care: What Works and What doesn’t by Joan Tomeu, R.N.

RooM 104-a

ÉMinEnCE oRGaniC SKin CaRE Hungarian Secrets for anti-aging Massage Techniques-advanced (Hands-on demonstration Master Class) by Boldijarre Koronczay

RooM 104-B

nElly dE VUyST® (dERME.Ca) Reduce, Resculpt and Tighten in Forty Minutes by Karina R. Geoffroy

RooM 201-a

dEPilèVE and anESi By diVi inTERnaTional depilève Strip and Stripless Waxing Class by Deanna Henderson

RooM 201-B

ConTRol CoRRECTiVE SKinCaRE SySTEMS TCa Peel Certification Class by Ellen Clark

RooM 202-a

RHonda alliSon® Peel, Peels and More Peels: The Most Requested Service by Rhonda Allison

RooM 202-B

MaRTinni BEaUTy, inC. Eyelash Extensions Workshop by Lana Yu

RooM 202-C

EdiMi™ inSTiTUTE FoR SKin SCiEnCES Healing With Herbs and Botanicals by Michael Tick, Ph.D.

RooM 203-C

dERMaTUdE The Power of Permanent Beauty: an introduction to Permanent Cosmetics by Terri Folker

3:45 p.M. to 5:00 p.M. RooM 103-B

Saian naTURal CliniCal SKin CaRE non-Surgical Face lift, neck lift, and Collagen infusion Through Galvanic / Microcurrent / infrared and natural Clinical Products by Margarita Saian

RooM 103-C

PCa SKin® Building Business and Profit Through Relationships by Joan Tomeu, R.N.

RooM 104-a

ÉMinEnCE oRGaniC SKin CaRE The organic Way: Treating acne, Rosacea and Eczema With natural ingredients (Hands-on demonstration Master Class) by Boldijarre Koronczay

RooM 104-B

PHySiodERMiE (dERME.Ca) non-Surgical Skin Tightening by Michael Ibbott

RooM 201-B

SMooTH SKin SUPPly Waxing With Se-Brazil Waxes by Stephanie G. Laynes

Visit for all workshops details. show hours: sunday, septeMBer 9 from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. monday, septeMBer 10 from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Long Beach 2012

exhiBitor list 3D- Beauty 5 Star Formulators A Natural Difference Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts Aesthetics Plus / Image Skincare Age Sciences PMD Personal Microderm AIA- Aesthetics International Association Alex Cosmetic Herbal A-Peel Alexander’s Aesthetics, Inc. Allegra M. France Anubis Skin Care Appearus Products Corp. Armesso Mesotherapy Associated Skin Care Professionals B & B -Belleza & Beauty B & S Beauty Supply (CA), Inc. Banzai Beauty Bare Ease by Miss Smarty Pants Enterprises, Inc. Beauties City Supplies, Inc. Beauty Attica, Inc. Beauty Beauty International Bellaire Industry Biodroga Biotone Blinc, Inc. BonVital’, Inc. Brazilian Blue Bronze Biologic Brush UP With Barbara Ltd Bubalina C’est Bon Organics CarePlus Corrective Skin Care CBI Laboratories, Inc. Chado-En Chella Brow & Eye Collection Christina USA Circadia by Dr. Pugliese Clarisonic ClearFX Skin Clinical Resolution Lab, Inc. CMS of Holland Control Corrective Skincare Systems Cowen Enterprise, Inc. d’vine Skincare Day Spa Association Dead Sea Premier Dectro International Demandforce Depileve and Anesi Dermaesthetics Beverly Hills, Inc. Dermatude Dermascope Magazine DermaSwiss Dermavista DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care Dermclar USA Designed 4 Life Diamond Way Ayurveda DiamondTome™ Microdermabrasion Divi International DPC Int’l, Inc. Dr. Grandel Dr. Jeff Skin Care Dr. Schrammek Green Peel Dynamis Skin Science Ecoscents Edge Systems Corp. Edimi Institute for Skin Sciences Éminence Organic Skin Care Enspri Skin Care Equipro Equipements de Beauté Ltd. EssenaVita EuroWorks EvaLash Beauty Corp.

as of july 1, 2012

Extend Your Lashes Eye Kandy Cosmetics EyeQBeauty Fake Bake Tanning Products Fallene Ltd. Farah Cosmetics Int., Inc. Five Star Formulators Galaxy Enterprises Germaine De Capuccini Global Skin Solutions Gold Cosmetics and Skin Care, Inc. Gold Elements GrandeLASH-MD Gratiae Organics H2T Spa Hairaway Hale Cosmeceuticals Heat, Inc. Spa-Kur Therapy Development Hollywood Face Towels & Wraps HydraFacial™ HydroPeptide ilike organic skin care from Szép Élet Image Derm, Inc. Imerge Beauty, Inc. Independent Beauty Suppliers, Inc. Innovative Beauty Products, LLC Instantly Ageless jane iredale - THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® Janssen Southwest JB Cosmetics Jewels Skin Care J.M.Group JMT Group K.P. Beauty Products Khlo E.Inc. , Coconut Oil Products KollagenX Lady Burd Ladybird Line, Inc. Le Mieux Cosmetics, Inc. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa LightStim Linage Skin Care Lira Clinical & Lycogel Lôngmi Lashes by Daniel Lucrece Physicians’ Aesthetic Research Luminosa Body Scrub M’lis Company Magazine Service Outlet Magic Styl’o Martinni Beauty, Inc. MD-7 Cosmeceutical Meditime by YBK Investment, Inc. Meg 21 Mesoestetic USA Micabeauty michael marcus cosmetics Millennium Spa Salon Software Mineral Mine Makeup Minkys Morphe Brushes Natural Selection Bath & Body Nelly De Vuyst (Derme.CA) Nouveau contour Nova Skin Peels NuFace NutraLuxe O2 Innovations Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare Palomar Medical Technologies, Inc. PCA Skin PFB Vanish, Inc. Physiodermie Methode (Derme.CA) Pinnacle Cosmetics PINO - Natural Spa Therapy

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa / Long Beach 2012

Poise Int’l Beverly Hills Pure Plant Spa – Ingredients Matter Quintessence Skin Science Rapid Lash Raw Mens Skin Care Relax and Wax - No Scream Cream Rena Levi Skin Care Repêchage Revitalash Revitalight Rhonda Allison Rose Skin Care Products Rozgé Ruby Makeup Academy Saian Natural Clinical Skin Care Sakura Silk Salonwear Sassi Stones Silhouet-Tone Skin Accents, Inc. Skin Care Consultants Skin Fitness Skin Script Skin Care Skin-Apeel Co. SkinAct SlimSpa The Body Treatment Specialist Smile World DBA Cailyn Cosmetics Smooth Skin Supply Softap Permanent Cosmetics SolarexMD South Seas Skin Care, LLC Spa & Aesthetics Spa de Soleil Spa Manufacturer Direct Spabooker by Gramercy, Inc. Spaware Software Sun Laboratories Tea Docents TecNiche Tei Spa By Tip Essentials, Inc. The Unique Edge The Wax Chick VB Beauty Vérité by BarcoSpa Uniforms Viktoria DéAnn Cosmeceuticals Vitality FX Detoxification Station Vitelle Labs White Prof Tooth Whitening Winning Beauty Supply Yum Gourmet Skincare


back acne

photo: AISPIX by Image Source/

by Eli Jones

BACK ACNE—OR “BACNE,” AS portmanteau might have it—is an inflammatory skin condition that results in the formation of acne type lesions in the shoulder and upper and middle back areas. Almost anyone can develop the condition, although athletes, overweight individuals and men with prominent body hair are most likely to be affected. With that said, males tend to have more trouble with bodily acne than women, as increased testosterone levels are linked to the inflammation of follicular ostia, a physical reaction to androgenic hormones that generally results in acne formation due to insufficient aeration of the pilosebaceous unit. Breakouts, whether facial or bodyspecific, generate from the same sequence of events: 1. Inflammation, as previously mentioned, creates a suitable environment for anaerobic bacteria to proliferate by reducing the amount of oxygen that reaches the base of a pore. 2. Sebaceous secretions continue to flow into the pore, allowing acne bacteria to feed upon the fatty acids and grow; usually until a break in the follicle wall occurs. 3. The body responds by sending leukocytes to the area to destroy bacteria and contain the infection, thus forming a pustule. What sets facial and body acne apart, however, is that which supports the aforementioned sequence—perspiration. In the case of back acne, body heat and sweat are the chief culprits in breakout formation, with a number of variables serving as accomplices: Damp and restrictive clothing: Sweat can saturate clothing and prevent heat August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

from being properly diffused from the skin. As a result, moisture is trapped and held against skin, creating the warm, dark, damp and sometimes dirty environment that bacteria loves. This problem typically affects athletes, or anyone who spends a great deal of time outdoors.

Encourage your clients to keep products with soothing ingredients in their shower. Aloe vera, lavandula angustifolia, or bisabolol are ideal.

Weight and skin folds: Usually affecting the neck and upper shoulder areas, weight-related skin folds act like restrictive clothing, in that they harbor sweat accumulation and retain moisture. These factors effectively set bacterial growth into motion, aiding in the formation of breakouts in and around creviced areas. Body hair: Being that the production of body hair is triggered by androgenic activity, and testosterone is a factor in perifollicular inflammation, a greater potential for the development of acne exists where there is body hair. Darkness and moisture retention are also triggering factors in lesion formation, commonly associated with hair-covered areas. The best recommendation for anyone with back acne is to wear clothes that are loose enough to allow for sufficient aeration, preferably articles made of cotton material. Equally, athletes should consider scheduling trainings

or workouts so that there is enough time afterward to shower and get a fresh change of clothes. Encourage your clients to keep products with soothing ingredients in their shower. Aloe vera, lavandula, angustifolia and bisabolol are ideal. If acne is already present, the condition may be corrected with the use of products containing glycolic and lactic (alpha hydroxy) acids for cleansing, and benzoyl peroxide for post-cleansing spot treatment. Should bodily acne become severe (visible scarring), the client should be referred to a dermatologist immediately for a prescription treatment. n

Eli Jones is the director of education for Mark Lees Skin Care, Inc. He is a licensed esthetician in Florida and North Carolina, an educator and a CIDESCO Diplomat. With his years of advanced training and experience as an undergraduate educator, Jones continues to help estheticians gain a better understanding of skin care through his informative articles, speaking engagements and teaching for postgraduate education. • Page 27


Page 28 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Kalim/

Bring on the

IN NATURE, THE MALE SPECIES HAS ALWAYS been the more colorful of the two sexes. Bright plumage, exotic coloring and manes of hair adorn many male animals in an effort to draw attention away from the female in the presence of predators. In the 17th century, men wore cosmetics in equal proportion to the women, especially in the French courts. Many of the big “stars” in the field of hairdressing have been men as well. So why are there so few male beauty therapists? Years ago, it was understood that females worked on other females in the hallowed halls of beauty therapy. Elizabeth Arden Salons, Elona of Hungary and Christine Valmy, to name a few, were secret retreats exclusively for women. A man would not dare show his face in these establishments unless he was a hairdresser or makeup artist. But things have changed. In an aging baby boomer society, both men and women are seeking serious treatment for aging, acne, sagging body skin and a host of other less than attractive flaws that show up mercilessly with time! Paramedical beauty therapy has come into its own, and people want results in exchange for the money they spend. Top plastic surgeons now realize the value of operating on skin that has been pre-conditioned for maximum health. Post-surgery treatments have become a necessity, as have the less invasive resurfacing treatments that are gradually replacing deep medical peels and laser blasting. Therapists everywhere are keen to advance their education in physiology, anatomy and chemistry to achieve a better position in the working market and earn maximum income. This is where the male therapist comes into his own. In the world of beauty therapy, women assume that if a man actually chooses this vocation, he must be serious about it, and being serious reflects control. I have often told my students— both female and male—that they cannot successfully treat any client if they do not convey a sense of control from the first visit. It is very easy for a male to have the same bedside manner as a doctor, even without a medical degree. Women instinctively trust the regimen a man suggests for them in regard to their appearance. Consider the top fashion designers and makeup artists that really know how to make women look beautiful—and strive to keep them that way.

skin Why are there so few male beauty therapists? One simple reason is explained by the general consensus that it is not a “manly” profession. The second reason is a lack of comfort.Women may feel less comfortable confiding in a male therapist and disrobing in front of them as they would for another woman—information that is sometimes vital to an effective treatment series. Some top male therapists in Russia and Ukraine override these objections because they are dermatologists or physiotherapists. The only difference between themselves and other male beauty therapists is this title or degree. If a nonmedical male therapist in the U.S. conducts his trade in a professional and businesslike manner, women feel as comfortable with him as they would with a female practitioner. A man’s touch is also different than a woman’s. It is more direct in many cases, and more firm and authoritative if they are confident. When it comes time to “prescribe” home products, the male therapist usually does not have to “sell” anything. The client immediately accepts whatever he suggests. Women know that men usually do not browse through the cosmetic counters of department stores, impulse buying the latest miracle crème that then ends up forgotten in a drawer at home. So when a male therapist says a certain regimen will do the job that’s needed, the female patient will normally accept this without question.

photo: Altafulla/

What about the male client? The spa business is growing by leaps and bounds. Years ago, when I worked in a private practice in Chicago, IL, 50 percent of my clients were male. They included a broad range of blue collar workers, aging bank presidents and everything in between. Of course, the gay community was a very viable source of clientele, as they tend to have more disposable income. The reason I achieved success in this business is because my facilities looked like clinics or doctor’s offices. Both men and women felt equally comfortable with this. I had no pink, Austrian swagged draperies in my reception, no beauty product posters or makeup displays, nothing to intimidate the man into feeling as if he were a trespasser on female territory. All of these feminine elements were hidden in a private room, out of view of male eyes. The male spa client dates back as far as the 1980s, and was actually initiated by “women’s lib.” It used to be that all a man needed to get August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

The male spa client dates back as far as the 1980s, and was actually initiated by “women’s lib.”

beautiful girlfriends and trophy wives was a flashy car and a big bankroll. If he had that going for him, he could be overweight with bad skin and sloppy grooming. But the woman this man was with always had to look wonderful— and as young as possible! Women eventually rebelled against this double standard, and started demanding that men look good too! Fitness centers began popping up all over the place, and executives started getting facials. This was followed by the “metrosexual” trend we see today. Thus, now more than ever, men feel compelled to do something about crow’s feet, forehead lines, looking older than they are and flawed body shapes. The marketplace is now full of men from all walks of life seeking direction and help—only to find themselves stuck on the Internet shopping for solutions or wandering aimlessly through drug and department stores, with no clue what to do. There is no need to “butch” up skin care products or “simplify” treatments for the male client anymore. Men want results as much as women do—so full body treatments, skin revision peels, laser, LED, Botox®, fillers and surgery are the same for everyone. Home prescriptive care is also important, and should not be oversimplified for male clients. Do not assume that men just “won’t understand” products the way women do—or that they they will not be willing to take the time every day to practice a skin care regimen. In my experience, men make the best clients—once they actually see a result from a professional skin treatment. They are not usually susceptible to impulse buying at department stores, so when you put them on a program for home use, they will follow it perfectly. I have actually gone into the bathrooms of some of my male clients to snoop—and sure enough, there were all the products I had recommended for them, neatly lined up in their medicine cabinets! Another upside to male clients is that they seldom argue when a therapist recommends a continues • Page 29


the talented among the male species to become more involved in the business of beauty therapy. This will help bring down any barriers still left between those of us in serious and scientific skin revision and the medical field. One will never take the place of the other, but there is a growing need for a coalition between both.

Attracting male clientele

change to their regimen. Especially if the therapist takes the time to explain everything to them logically and professionally. The spa atmosphere is ideal for male therapists. Already there are quite a few sports massage therapists that wish to upgrade their practice—along with a growing number of chiropractors. Most spas are non-genre, and many work in conjunction with fitness centers. In my travels, I have spoken with many male practitioners and doctors who were actually thinking about getting into hands-on therapy beyond the skills they had developed from their initial training. As longtime beauty therapists, our past is the future for these up and coming professionals. I urge every educator in our industry who has withstood the test of time to start thinking about “paying it forward” by investing in these individuals. I think all of you talented professionals out there in beauty therapy—male and female—must agree that this business does need more dedicated men. Let’s encourage

Danne M. King is a worldwide leader and visionary in the field of skin regeneration. He has been in the esthetics industry since the 1960s, and was one of the first biochemists to recognize the power of enzymes to hydrate and tighten the skin, and the benefit of vitamin C therapy for collagen in human skin.

Page 30 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Wavebreakmedia ltd/

The spa atmosphere is ideal for male therapists. Already there are quite a few sports massage therapists that wish to upgrade their practice— along with a growing number of chiropractors.

Attracting male clientele is very simple. Display before and after treatment photos of male clients in your clinic—even if you have to do a few “freebies” on friends at first. Your female clients will see these images and spread the word. Place advertisements with photos depicting men having treatments, and clearly list the services that these images depict. A few years ago, I placed full page ads in various men’s magazines, announcing that we treat “acne backs.” I did this with the knowledge that many men who spend a trememdous amount of time in the gym were also on steroids, for which back acne is a common side effect. Obviously, I could hardly advertise “steroid side effect treatments.” But when potential clients read about “acne back” treatments, they got the message and made appointments. Two decades ago, I suggested to one of our colleagues in Taiwan that he open skin clinics just for men. He argued that the concept would never be popular with Oriental men. So I asked him how many Chinese men over 50 dyed their hair. He replied that nearly all the men he knew in that age group dyed their hair, and that it made them look much younger! I countered that if they were willing to go that far to look younger, they would surely go even further to complete the effect if it was presented right. In the end, my friend took a gamble on my advice and opened his first all male skin revision clinic. The facility is fully booked throughout the year! In conclusion, treatments are just as essential for men as they are for women. Aside from the obvious hormonal differences between men and women, skin is skin, and must be tended to for optimal health and appearance. Attracting male clientele is as simple as effectively communicating that point. Presentation is everything. n

by Pamela Springer


pseudofolliculitis barbae

the best ingredients to use and avoid PSEUDO­FOLLICULITIS BARBAE (PFB) is known by many as razor bumps, shaving bumps, ingrown hairs, pili incarnati or folliculitis barbae traumatica. It is estimated that over 50 percent of African American males are genetically predisposed to pseudofolliculitis barbae due to the curvature of the hair follicle. Hispanics, Caucasians and hirsute women who have curly hair can also have this condition.

photo: Blend Images/

Causes The cause of this condition for many men afflicted with it originates from an attempt to get a closer shave. In these cases, the skin is pulled taut, and initially shaved in the direction of hair growth, then re-shaved against the grain. When the skin is released, the sharp angular hair tip re-enters the skin, and most often pierces the follicular wall, causing inflammation. This re-entry of hair creates painful, firm papules and pustule eruptions, accompanied by swelling and itching to the affected area. These eruptions may surround hair buried inside, making shaving very difficult and quite painful. Once the hair penetrates the epidermis, it may eventually perforate the dermis, causing severe abscess formations. These abscesses generally result in hypertrophic or keloid scarring. In terms of treatment, it is necessary to address these abscess lesions or any secondary infections with a referral to a dermatologist for possible antibiotic therapy. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

When treating the papules and pustules, professionals should take into consideration that while this condition mimics acne, PFB has nothing to do with the inflammatory process involving the sebaceous gland. The cause, as noted above, is the re-emergence of a foreign object into the skin, causing a response that promotes inflammatory and noninflammatory eruptions. Men with darker skin tones tend to have a “shadowing” or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) of the bearded area. This is caused by the ir-

Apply a professional grade, highly lubricated shaving cream. Leave the shaving cream on the skin for approximately one minute.

ritation from frequent shaving. This irritation stimulates the melanocytes to produce melanin, dropping excessive pigment into the frequently shaved area. This is also known as “razor burn,” and is seen as erythema in Caucasian or lighter skin types.

Effective shaving tips for clients with PFB The history of PFB is generally from improper shaving techniques. Shaving should always begin with the softening of the beard. This can be accomplished by using a very warm moistened towel,

wrapped barber style around the face for approximately five minutes. Another technique is the use of a soft-bristled toothbrush. By applying gentle circular motions to the bearded area, hairs attempting to re-enter the skin will be dislodged and exfoliate dead cells. Darker skin types are prone to having a compact horny layer, which prevents the penetration of ingredients in followup products. Next, apply a professional grade, highly lubricated shaving cream. Leave the shaving cream on the skin for approximately one minute. continues • Page 31


To prevent the possibility of shaving too closely, use a sharp, single-edged, foil-guarded blade. Shave in the direction of the hair growth for a maximum of two passes. Rinse residual hair from the blade with hot water after each pass. After use, sterilize the blade by rinsing off any residual hairs, and wipe it off with alcohol. Blades should be discarded after two uses.

Ingredients to avoid: Avoid oils on skin with razor bumps. Oils can trap bacteria in the pores of the skin and cause folliculitis. • Acetylated lanolin (synthetic) • Cocoa butter • Coconut oil • Cotton seed oil • Soybean oil • Wheat germ oil

Best ingredients to use Acetylsalicylic acid: Eases inflammation; reduces irritation and swelling. Aloe vera: Hydrating, softening and healing, with anti-microbial and antiinflammatory properties. Bentonite: A colloidal aluminum silicate clay that absorbs excess oil; astringent properties help shrink and tighten enlarged, irritated pores.

Benzoyl peroxide: Anti-bacterial properties. Caution: May cause irritation in sensitive skins (controversial). Bromelain: A proteolytic agent found in pineapples effectively reduces inflammation from infection. Chamomile extract: Has clinically proven anti-inflammatory and skin repairing properties. Also considered a bactericidal, anti-itching, soothing agent with the ability to neutralize skin irritants. Diglycerin: Properties similar to glycerin, it coats and moisturizes the damaged skin areas. Enzymes: Speeds up the natural skin renewal process. Alleviates skin irritation and inflammation. Glycerin: Maintains moisture and natural oils on the skin. Attracts moisture and reduces the over-drying of the skin. Glycolic acid 2.5 pH or above: Helps dissolve desmosomes, and allows penetration of other ingredients. Hydrocortisone: Relieves itching, dryness and inflammation. Isopropyl alcohol: Used in many bacteria fighting products. It kills the bacteria on and under the bump to prevent infection (controversial). Kaolin: Absorbs oil and draws impurities from the skin without removing natural oils.

Pamela Springer, a licensed educator, speaker and author, conducts monthly Don’t Be Afraid of the Dark webinars on skin management programs for darker skins. She is the product developer for Global Skin Solutions and founder of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona and the Academy of Advanced Aesthetics and Permanent Cosmetics. Springer volunteers her time as the director of NASN for Arizona. She can be reached at

Page 32 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Blend Images/

Chamomile extract: Has clinically proven antiinflammatory and skin repairing properties. Also considered a bactericidal, anti-itching, soothing agent with the ability to neutralize skin irritants.

Lanolin oil (natural): Has moisturizing properties with high water absorption capabilities (controversial). Panthenol: An anti-inflammatory agent that stimulates cellular proliferation, aids in tissue repair and attracts water from the environment. Papain: An enzyme from papaya dissolves keratin buildup. Salicylic acid 30%, 2.5 pH or above: A keratolytic agent that helps to reduce dead cells and debris within the follicle. Also has anti-inflammatory properties. Sodium PCA: Exists naturally in the skin and is a high-performance humectant. Sorbitol: Absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness. Squalene: A moisturizer and skin lubricant that helps to replenish skin lipids. Sunflower oil: High in linoleic acids that soften and smooth the skin. Also contains lecithin and carotenoids. Vitamin A: Increases cell turnover, helping to stimulate cell production while improving skin tone. Zinc: Accelerates wound healing and offers protection against UV radiation. Has a synergistic effect with vitamins A and E. Helps lower sebaceous secretions. n

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Page 34 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012




August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

of male oriented publications such as financial or sports magazines on the side tables, and not scenting the rooms with sweet aromas or playing music that makes guys cringe (i.e., Celine Dion, Taylor Swift). Over time, I observed several categories of male clients, the first being the teenager with acne. I don’t think I ever saw a male client under 20 who had no skin issues, or who came in purely out of curiousity or indulgence. This young man is most likely our client for life. If he commits, he will be calling the salon himself to make the appointments. This individual belongs to the new generation of clients that seeks health, beauty and well being, a generation that is apart from or unaware of potential social stigmas. Sometimes, sadly, the discomfort caused by extractions is a deterrent for the teenager, and he refuses to come back. I tend to use my best bedside manners and treatment choices with young clients. I saw a few of my clients transition from 12 year old boys into college students. These clients make sure that they see me when they are in town! As far as adults go, I see many young professionals under 40 for whom body and skin care are part of their dress code. They are under pressure to look their best and to constantly be groomed to perfection. I am talking about television actors (I work in Hollywood), executives from all sorts of industries, business owners, salespeople and so on. With the advent of HDTV, skin care treatments are an absolute must among actors. Then, there is the professional man over 40, who simply wants to slow down the signs of aging. He is confident in his role as a mature man, yet desires to look his best and as youthful as possible. Of all the different types of male continues



DO YOU SOMETIMES FEEL THAT YOU ARE missing a large, yet unexplored chunk of the skin care market? If you do not have any male clients, then you are right! When I decided to take a chance on that angle, I took it seriously, researching male waxing, man-friendly products, male-skin related issues and attending seminars on men’s skin care. I knew all this was necessary in order to be prepared for my male guests. Statistics show that 20 percent of the client base in metropolitan area salons are men. As I look into my own client book, I must say that for my facility, it is around 15 percent. But this number is steadily growing, and I value that additional 15 percent of the market in my business tremendously. My male clients are loyal, and they are disciplined in terms of their home care regimens. With the advent of disposable razors, men long ago stopped going to barber shops, and were left to their own devices in the realm of skin care. As spa professionals, our objective now should be to slowly streamline them to our businesses. Today, practically every skin care company has products and protocol designed specifically for men, and every salon has treatments with strategic names, such as “gentleman’s facial” or “man’s manicure.” Keep in mind that men often have a really hard time coming to spas and salons, fearing disapproval or ridicule from others. I often see my male clients sitting in the waiting lounge with their faces buried in their smartphones. The magazines on the hospitality table are geared to women, and of little interest to men. We have to be extra sensitive to the male client’s comfort, and do all that we can to make them feel welcomed and comfortable at our facility. This can be achieved by featuring gender-neutral décor, keeping several copies • Page 35


clients, this type spends the most on products and treatments, especially on combination services such as haircuts, waxing, nail, facial and body services. I also see the occasional male client who only shows up when his wife or girlfriend nudges him or brings him along. Though this man immensely enjoys the much needed skin care treatments, he will not initiate the effort of enriching his home care regimen or booking his next appointment. He tends to fall asleep in the chair or chat about things other than skin care. Again, I do my job, clean his face and point out anything that he should be aware of, such as dilated capillaries, suspicious spots and so on. This is the most resilient client, set in his ways. The best channel to reach him is through the very person that brought him in. Many times, a wife or a girlfriend will buy the product for him—and enforce its use. The smallest group are the true aficionados that visit salons frequently and are actually dictating skin care trends for men. British journalist Mark Simpson coined the term “metrosexual” in 1994. It originated in an article he published in The Independent on November 15, 1994, where he described the metrosexual man, the single young man with a high disposable income, living or working in the city (because that’s where all the best shops are), as perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. In the 1980s, he could only be found inside fashion magazines such as GQ, television advertisements for Levi’s jeans or

gay bars. In the 1990s, he was everywhere—and he was going shopping! After speaking to several beauty professionals, it appears that the following services are the most requested: a haircut, facial and body waxing, manicure, tanning, skin care and body treatments for figure correction (like a massage/ sauna combo that helps detoxification and skin softening, and then the microcurrent toning of the belly and under the chin). There are considerable differences between female and male skin care when it comes to treatments and product ingredients. The protocols mostly stay the same—massage, extractions, and the application of hydrating, soothing, purifying masks to reduce stress and dullness. Men’s skin can also have all the conditions of female skin, but it is thicker, oilier and more elastic. Men’s skin is more prone to allergic reactions and irritations because of the higher pH. It is also more resilient after injuries, and better tolerates exposure to sun or cold. Signs of aging appear on their skin later than they do for women, and they are very noticeable—deep lines and wrinkles, though they exfoliate daily with their shaving routine, and that is a huge advantage over female skin. Numerous cosmetic companies have special products suitable for men’s skin. For example, cleansers contain enzymes, clay, allantoin, bisabolol, vitamin E, castor oil, ascorbic acid, retinol, glycerin and various minerals. Products for men are designed to calm the skin and make shaving enjoyable, as well as hydrate and cleanse the skin without disturbing the hydrolipid balance. Other product ingredients found in formulations for men include fructose, glucose, panthenol, glycerin, allantoin, botanical extracts, hyaluronic and lactic acids. This is to reduce redness and irritation, and provide anti-inflammatory healing of the cuts created during shaving. These active ingredients have properties that prolong the process of hydrating, which boosts skin firming and the prevention of wrinkles. Men typically don’t like oily creams because they give unwanted shine to the face, clog the pores, are absorbed slowly and have an overall unpleasant feeling. Therefore, men’s skin creams are lighter, often oil free formulas that give the face a matted look. In my experience, retaining male clients depends on visible results and reasonably priced, dual purpose skin care products. continues

Page 36 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


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The most popular treatments among my male clients are ultrasonic peeling, chemical exfoliation and hydration-oriented peels. Chemical peels are very efficacious, and it’s best not to shave for three to four days after the procedure. For some men, this post treatment requirement presents a problem, so they choose to use hydra peel or ultrasonic peel. Enzyme peels (not blended with acids) are the golden standard, and are most suitable for sensitive, freshly shaved or first time clients. Anti-aging treatments with injectables (Botox and fillers) are gaining popularity among men, though not as much as with women. Every esthetician must understand the basic differences between male and female skin in order to select the best salon treatment and home care for the male client. Characteristics of men’s skin include: • A much thicker and firmer epidermis. • Less prominent fatty deposits. • Connective tissues are firm and compacted. Because of these characteristics, men age slower and typically don’t have cellulite. But they still have their own set of problems: • Weak, superficial blood vessels, which can give the face an unhealthy red appearance.

• Hypertrophic function of the oil glands, which leads to seborrheic dermatitis. • Excessive sweating. In conclusion, a male client should use certain essential skin care products: toning lotion, hydrating day cream, nourishing night cream, peeling cream, scrub, eye cream or gel. Shaving products to recommend to a male client include gel, foam, cream and an aftershave lotion or gel. Are you determined to catch Mr. Client? Look at your facility and the services you are offering. Are you prepared to treat male skin challenges? Does your facility appeal to them? If not, make any changes you need to so you can expand your client base by establishing a loyal male following! n Biba de Sousa is a California licensed esthetician and one of the first NCEA Certified professionals in the nation. She is an active member of several trade organizations and esthetic networks and currently practices as a solo operator in Beverly Hills, CA at her studio Biba West Hollywood in Beverly Hills, CA. Email her at

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #152 on reader service card

Page 38 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


Sun exposure is a universal threat to healthy skin, and is a key contributor to the visible signs of skin aging. The coveted Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of Recommendation has been awarded to the entire line of PCA SKIN速 broad-spectrum SPF products. Each outstanding formulation is proven to prevent sun-induced skin damage, including sunburn and premature aging. To find out more about our suite of revolutionary sun protection products, please call a highly trained member of our Practice Development Group at 877.PCA.SKIN (722.7546). | 877.PCA.SKIN [722.7546] Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #110 on reader service card

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Page 40 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


GROOMING THE MAN MEN MAY NOT ALWAYS BE WILLING TO share the secret behind their impeccable grooming, but they can be the most loyal client-base an esthetician has. Men have been commonly stereotyped as “metrosexual” when they employ impeccable grooming habits, but most spa-going men do not fit the definition of a metrosexual man. They simply want to look well groomed for any occasion, whether it is a business meeting or a fishing trip. This demographic wants to enjoy the benefits of facials, massage, waxing or laser hair removal, but may be too shy to seek it out because of fear about what their peers may think. With this in mind, what approach does an esthetician take to build his/her male client base and retain them successfully? Building on this client base takes time and education. A man’s skin and hair follicles are different from a woman’s, which makes their hair removal needs slightly different. An ideal way to start booking some male hair removal services is by farming your female clientele. Encourage your ladies to book an appointment for the man in their life. This can be done in person during their appointment or in your communications with them: text, email or Facebook correspondence. Word-of-mouth marketing is simply the best way to help build your business. It communicates your philosophy and professionalism when done properly. Before encouraging your female clientele to introduce their significant others to facial treatments or back waxes, consider your ap-


pearance. Low-cut shirts or blouses, a flirtatious demeanor, perfume and long hair worn down could give the wrong impression, detracting from the professionalism of your treatments. What are your thoughts regarding this look versus a neat and professional appearance? Clothing must fit properly and not be revealing, long hair must be tied back and jewelry limited to a wedding band, watch, simple necklace and earrings. Nothing that can make noise or come into contact with the clients’ skin, thus interfering with the procedure. What you wear and say communicates wonders about your ethics. Proper communication essentially has three components: listening, verbal and non-verbal. All of these components in positive synergy can help increase your word-of-mouth referrals. Dressing professionally and keeping your conversation directed about your clients’ needs and wants is the key to great customer service. Once you have mastered customer service, you can master retaining male clientele. Facial and waxing treatments are intimate procedures. They are private, behind closed doors and involve some clothing removal and touching of the skin. In considering the proximity of a male client and female esthetician, most men have different boundaries regarding touch and conversation than women in the treatment room. It takes time to build a level of confidence in this professional relationship. Don’t bombard continues


skin|grooming the man

them with retail and conversation. Casually guide the conversation and ask them about their grooming preferences. In a facial treatment, it is important to understand how a man’s skin is different from a woman’s. He has thicker, oilier skin than a woman and is more prone to blackheads. His facial hair is deep rooted with large follicles, and he has finer hair present in and around his ears, nostrils and the nape of his neck. His brows may have uneven hair growth, and fine hair growth on the glabella and up to his hairline. What are his hair removal preferences? Starting with a simple brow cleanup is the best way to introduce him to wax. Do not groom his brows like a woman’s. A man needs a more narrow glabella opening and less arch to maintain his masculinity. Over-waxing his eyebrows may betray his trust, prompting him to not return. From the eyebrows, attend to his ears by applying a small amount of hard wax and removing the hair, same with the nostril. Never apply a gob of wax to a cotton-tip and insert it into the ear or nostril—this is simply inhumane. This hair serves as a filter to the opening, and that amount of wax in a highly vascular area is painful. It is not necessary or recommended to remove all the hair—only remove the hair that is visible outside of the opening. Never wax the beard, but the hair at the nape of the neck and front part of the neck under the beard line may be waxed safely. Never feminize a man’s appearance. Keep his lines and feathering as natural as possible. Always monitor his pain threshold and communicate your intention before waxing. One man may prefer to have everything waxed, whereas another may only want natural-looking hair removal.

Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and vice president and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. She is a nationally recognized public speaker and published writer in the skin care industry. Zillmann has received the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award from the National Association of Women Business Owners, and served as the president of Aesthetic International Association for 2009-2010.

Page 42 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Vasilchenko Nikita/


The same practice in the facial treatment is vital to successful body waxing. It is becoming more acceptable for men to receive facial treatments, back and chest waxing, manicures and pedicures. However, anything below the belt may present some giggles and/or jaw drops in some communities (with the occasional exception from swimmers and body builders). Yet, these are still marketable services. For example, a man having a back and chest wax done is socially acceptable. He does not feel any embarrassment calling to book the appointment, and his friends do not ridicule him for receiving these services. Secretly, he would like to have some pubic hair removed—perhaps a bikini wax—and his buttocks waxed, but does not want to offend his technician and is concerned the area may look unnatural. Subtle communication may help with his conundrum and build your likelihood of retention with this client. During the back wax, ask him if he would like more feathering below his belt line. How much further? Advise him that a more natural appearance can be achieved by moving down the buttocks with feathering. He may be satisfied with this look, or next time he may want more hair removed. The same suggestions hold true for the male bikini wax, which could progress to the “manzilian.” No matter how simple or complex the service may be, every client and technician needs a comfort level for his or her treatments. An esthetician should be educated and practiced in waxing procedures, they must be comfortable touching a man in a professional manner, and they must accept some of the natural reactions that may occur during the treatment. A man’s pain tolerance during a hair removal procedure is important. His follicles are deeper and thicker than a woman’s, and a simple back wax can be very painful, depending on their hair type and length. Always monitor the client’s pain response during the treatment. If necessary, use a topical numbing agent to help with the discomfort. If waxing is a painful procedure for him, suggest laser hair removal to reduce the hair growth. It is becoming common for a man to benefit from the rejuvenating results and polished appearance of spa services. Building on this demographic can be rewarding, and it can establish long-lasting professional relationships. Simply maintain your professional stand at all times, and help your client achieve their results through positive and reinforcing communication. n

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more protected from collagen and elastin degradation, and has a denser network of collagen fibers than those found in female skin. If you are starting to think that hormones affect male skin, just like hormones fluctuate and affect female skin, you would be right. Due to a higher acidity level in the skin, men’s skin can be sensitive, susceptible to dryness, break out and suffer from irritation after shaving. It is necessary for skin care professionals to understand these crucial differences between the two genders, and understand the male physiology in order to provide proper and effective treatments and skin care regimens.

Teen years The levels of testosterone in a male’s body rapidly increase when puberty hits. This rise in testosterone levels is the reason for the appearance of all these typically masculine characteristics, such

as facial and body hair, a deep voice, upper body strength, muscle development and “manly” body odor. Testosterone is not just responsible for all the previously mentioned changes in a male’s body, it is also the cause of increased oil secretion on a male’s face. Once a boy hits puberty, he will begin to notice this increase in oil, and it will continue steadily throughout his adult life. Increased oil secretion can provide bacteria with a perfect home on the face, causing acne and clogged pores to appear. Acne in males at this stage is more common than it is in females, due to their increased sebum production, all of which cannot be secreted through the sebaceous glands, so the sebum builds up in the hair follicles. This excess sebum production is not all bad news, however. Sebum, or oil, is a source of moisture for the skin (maybe the only form of moisturization for young males who are not on a proper skin care

Page 44 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Blend Images/

MEN’S SKIN CARE IS NOT A FREquently broached topic, and a skin care regimen is not something many men adhere to (and if they do, they probably don’t discuss it much, if at all). While women are busy researching the newest moisturizers and have been strictly maintaining a skin care regimen from an early age, most men seem to neglect their skin, regardless of the fact that they face the same stresses, hormonal fluctuations and environmental effects as women, sometimes in even greater doses. A main distinction that differentiates a man’s face from a woman’s is the dark, coarse facial hair a man develops when he reaches puberty. Androgens are responsible for this hair growth, and while androgens are present in a female’s body (maybe causing mild facial hair growth), a man’s level is 10 times higher than a female’s. Even though genetics and lifestyle choices affect a man’s skin, it is greatly influenced by his hormones. Androgens, specifically testosterone, affect the make up of male skin, affecting everything from hair growth, collagen networks, thickness of skin and oil production. Their thick, coarse facial hair has a flat shaped follicle that makes it curly, which can lead to razor burn after shaving, due to the cut hair reentering the skin and causing inflammation. Another difference between male and female skin, due to androgens, is that males have more sebaceous glands, or oil glands, than women, along with larger pores. It’s not all bad for a man though. Due to androgens, male skin is thicker,

skin|today’s man

regimen), and helps to stop water loss in the body while simultaneously protecting the skin from environmental factors. Men at this stage in life need to be put on a good skin care regimen, with moisturization as a key step. Due to the excess of oil production, they may believe that a moisturizer is not needed, or that it may make their skin even oilier. However, hydration is a necessary step, especially during an acneic breakout, in order to protect and heal the skin. The right moisturizer will help to regenerate cells, unclog pores, prevent and even begin to heal acne scars. Recommending a lightweight moisturizer with sunscreen would be highly beneficial, along with a clarifying cleanser.

photo: Blend Images/

Middle age It is no wonder that during this time in a man’s life, his skin becomes susceptible to the signs and symptoms of aging. At this stage, a man is generally trying to build his way up in a competitive career market, establishing himself financially and starting a family. As these stresses lead to signs of aging, some men experience that mid-life crisis. During puberty, the oil production on a male’s skin can be excessive, but in middle age this too levels off, and acne concerns begin to subside for most males. During puberty a male also experiences a rapid increase in testosterone levels, but when he reaches middle age, he experiences a decline in these levels every year. This hormonal fluctuation is the main reason behind skin and hair changes experienced by men throughout adulthood. Remember, male skin is much thicker than women’s skin. Women, many of whom have taken much better care of their skin than their male counterparts, will nevertheless begin to age quicker, due to men’s skin being much thicker. But don’t be too jealous ladies. Accord­ing to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2001), diseases associated with skin barrier abnormalities, including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and actinic keratosis are more common in men than August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

in women. Testosterone slows down the skin’s barrier to recovery and development, causing them to be more susceptible to these skin conditions.

Men should consider using glycolic acid based cleansers, not only for washing the face but for shaving as well. Also, men tend to have more issues dealing with “bac-ne,” or acneic breakouts on the upper shoulder and back region than women do. Just as in younger years, men at this stage tend not to use a moisturizer, though it is still essential for healthy skin. They should use an oil-free moisturizer, preferably with an SPF that won’t clog pores and will provide protection against sun damage. Also, men should consider using glycolic acid based cleansers, not only for washing the face but for shaving as well. A glycolic acid cleanser can be applied for shaving in order to soften hair follicles and reduce the risk of ingrown facial hairs. At this stage of aging, all men should be applying a deeply hydrating, wrinkle relaxing peptide eye cream. Lastly, men should be encouraged to get deep pore cleansing facial treatments monthly, or at least several times a year, to maintain healthy skin throughout adulthood.

During puberty, men see a rapid increase in androgen levels, and during andropause men will see a rapid decrease of androgen levels. Declining testosterone levels, however, will never disappear completely, which explains why men are capable of fathering a child late in life. While men’s hormone levels will decrease at this stage, it is not the same reduction seen in women, making it’s comparison to menopause not completely accurate. Men age 55 and up may begin to see the signs of andropause. However, not all males are symptomatic. Between twenty and fifty percent of men in this age group percent have hypogonadism, which is lower testosterone, the pathological basis of andropause. While there are many symptoms of andropause that affect a male’s body, including loss of bone density, muscle tone loss, memory loss and even depression, its most visible symptoms occur in the skin, and include premature aging, a decrease in skin quality and changes in hair growth. continues

Male menopause By this point in their lives, men may have their 401(k)s taken care of—but still not their skin. Men have been through the hormonal fluctuations associated with puberty and experienced a steady decline in testosterone levels throughout middle age. Some men experience andropause at this stage of life. Andropause, sometimes compared to female menopause, is also known as androgen deficiency in the aging male (ADAM). • Page 45

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According to the Journal of Cell Science (2004), older men’s skin is not capable of healing wounds—such as a nick from shaving—as quickly and efficiently as women’s skin. Lower testosterone levels have been noted as a factor in this slower healing process for men. This must be considered when comprising a skin care regimen for a male, and be sure to use products that enable the skin to protect and heal itself. Just as women can receive Hormone Replacement Therapy (HRT) during menopause, men suffering from symptoms of andropause have the option to receive Testosterone Replacement Therapy (TRT). Just like any medical option, there may be side effects, so it is necessary for men to consult with their doctor before considering this course of treatment. Much the same advice given to women applies to men as well. Aging, poor health and even hormonal fluctuations that affect the skin can all be regulated and maintained by adamantly sticking to a skin care regimen and making positive lifestyle, food and exercise choices.

In conclusion Men, like women, go through the natural aging process, and are affected mentally, physiologically, emotionally and hormonally. It is necessary to start a man on a proper skin care regimen as early as 13 or 14 years old, if possible, in order to maintain healthy skin care practices throughout adulthood. Men’s skin, while sometimes protected by facial hair, may receive less UV damage. However, like women, fair skinned men may experience visible signs of aging before those with darker skin tones. That is why it is necessary for men to use a protective SPF for their skin. Male clients are easier to please than women. Most are just looking for comfort, simplicity and straightforward dialogue about treatment and product recommendations. Your male clients will be loyal, punctual and compliant—as long as you don’t overwhelm them with too many options. n

Lyn Ross is a licensed master esthetics educator, a recognized leader in the professional skin care industry and the founder of Institut’ DERMed. With more than 25 years of in-clinic esthetic experience, Ross is dedicated to sharing her knowledge with licensed esthetics professionals. A true medical spa pioneer, Ross has written numerous articles, authored chapters in textbooks and appeared on radio and television shows highlighting professional skin care.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #120 on reader service card

Page 46 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

SMOOTH MOVE The Cellular Transformation Serum from HydroPeptide® is a fine line smoother that enhances the skin’s most essential building blocks with six high performance peptides. Sodium hyaluronate instantly restores elasticity and balanced hydration. Magnesium, copper and zinc promote a clear complexion. This multi-tasking anti-ager can be applied after shaving and before applying aftershave lotion.

Offer your male clientele the power of zeolites to refresh their skin with the Anti-Radical Face Scrub from A Natural Difference. Zeolites are natural minerals from deep within the Earth, which capture invading toxins and damaging substances, bringing them to the surface to be neutralized and eliminated, says the company.




OUTBACK IMPORT YOUTHFUL CLARITY The skin of your male clientele is guaranteed to benefit from the Pore & Line Minimizing Hydrator, the latest innovation of Murad’s Anti-Aging Acne line. It refines pores and provides essential hydration to soothe and repair breakouts. This dual-action hydrator clears and tightens pores for a refined complexion while boosting collagen for skin that looks and feels plumper and smoother, says the company.

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

BANISH BREAKOUTS The Clarify: Therapeutic Salicylic Acid Mask Treatment Set from PCA Skin® is both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory to prevent and clear breakouts. Clarify, a treatment mask, incorporates 20 percent salicylic acid with antioxidant and detoxifying ingredients to address the four main causes of acne. Replenishing Gel and Calming Balm, both treatment enhancement products, soothe and calm while providing antioxidant protection to blemish-prone skin.

Australian professional skin care line DIRT for Men recently launched in the U.S. The full range of specialized products includes an assortment of powerful, masculine products: Shave & Face Wash, B-Balm, Red Alert, Hit, Armour, Deep Face Wash, Recharge PM and Charge AM. Packaging on DIRT products makes it easy for your male clients to take good care of their skin without having to tell the world about it!

MORE NEWS • Page 47




The Crystal Peel Microdermabrasion Facial Exfoliator & Pre-shave from Crystal Peel Clinical Skincare acts as a cleanser and preshave formula. The thorough exfoliation removes the dead skin and allows the beard to be more exposed. It provides optimum exfoliation to prepare the beard for the closest shave ever, polishes away dead skin cells and resurfaces the skin to reduce fine lines and even out skin tone, says the company.

YOUTH POTION Both male and female clients will appreciate the visible age-reversing effects behind the Instalift Serum from Definitions Skincare. The special combination of peptides and botanical extracts instantly lifts, firms and tightens the skin. Key ingredient leuphasyl reduces wrinkle expression caused by the contraction of facial muscles, while Matrixyl 3000 lifts the skin.


ALL-IN-ONE The new Alpha Clear Peeling Mask from Matis Paris is the perfect multitasking product for men—it exfoliates, brightens and clears the skin. Enzymatic activity fights against cutaneous imperfections, helping to prevent pigmentation spots. It also has decongesting and lightening properties. The comfortable texture allows for a smooth, safe application, suitable for any skin type.

The LAFACE Pur Purifying Facial Wash is a gentle, effective cleansing wash that removes all dirt and impurities, leaving skin tighter, cleaner and moisturized, says the company. A combination of copper gluconate and aloe soothes sensitive skin and rinses it completely without the need for toners or astringents. Anti-inflammatory ingredients encourage a more refined texture, and naturally derived humectants leave skin hydrated.

Page 48 Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


reel in guests with amazing spa packages!

photo: Blend Images/

by Cassandra Rafuse

EVERYONE LOVES GETTING A little bit more for a little bit less. Spas often list several service packages as part of their regular treatment menu, so we are all familiar with the main three: the standard pampering packages that bring together manicures, pedicures and facials; couples’ packages, which often feature massage therapies like hot stone massage; and bridal packages, which encompass a wide variety of services, from facials and waxing to manicures and makeup application. Are these three general package themes the best your spa can do? Here are five great ideas to help you reach more clientele with one-of-a-kind spa retreats. Introductory bundles: New product or treatment? Take a page from the strategy book of IT companies and offer a limited-time package that highlights the latest services your spa offers. To keep new clients coming through the door and ensure they become repeat clients, try to offer an introductory package every six months. This encourages the continuing education of your staff, and helps you stay fresh and current with the latest trends. Seasonal specials. Offer up a different set of services each season, addressing a skin care issue that is associated with that time of the year. Summer is a great time for sun care and spray tanning. Winter is a good time to promote moisture-rich treatments to reduce dry skin. Coordinate retail product discounts with your packages to entice your clients to continue spa care at home. Seasonal specials, Part II. Don’t limit menu selections to the cycles of nature. Do some research to discover which August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


sports are the most popular in your spa’s local area, create packages that would appeal to team players of those sports and offer to supply these packages for the duration of their playing season. It could be football, baseball, hockey or any other sport. Visit local schools and stadiums, talk with coaches and begin your advertising in training season. Steam treatments, massage therapy and body waxing are excellent services to include in packages for sports enthusiasts—and it can greatly increase the number of male clientele. Time-release packages. In today’s busy world, clients may not have time to spend a couple hours relaxing in a spa, even if they need it! Instead of offering packages that must be used in one visit, prepare bundles that can be used over time. One example is to offer a discount on monthly pedicures, and sell three, six and twelve month packages. This is a win-win solution for both the client and the spa—the client pays for and receives regular treatments, and the spa has a guarantee that the client will visit often, presenting the opportunity for them to sell other products and services. Theme dreams. Look beyond the standard calendar holidays when cre-

ating packages. Acknowledge regional festivals and fairs by offering a special group of services for one week only, or even a weekend. Increase local trade and entice tourists to explore your spa by promoting the packages during historical and civic events. Proms, graduations and reunions also present excellent opportunities for your business. But what do you do if there is nothing terribly interesting happening? Go global. Work together with local ethnic communities, and be the first to celebrate the Chinese New Year, the Indian Holi Festival of Colours or the Mexican Cinco de Mayo. Use creativity to keep your spa packages fresh and fun. Your clients will love the variety, and the ability for them to experiment with new treatments and products without breaking the bank. n Cassandra Rafuse is a master herbalist with 10 years of experience and proficiency in several other natural health modalities. A dedicated professional student, she is also a licensed makeup artist and an expert in spa therapies from around the world. Rafuse is the owner of Sabai Wellness Spa, an eco-spa in Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada. • Page 49



THE MODERN MAN IN THE SPA TODAY IS A SOPHISTICATED, health conscious, confident guy who cares about looking and feeling good. It is very important to him to be hygienic, well groomed, fit and to have a great complexion, and he seeks out products that help him to reach his potential in these areas. The following pages feature cutting-edge products formulated to deliver the results spa-going men desire. 4

11 12 11

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11 14




12 14





13 15




14 1. Express Shave Foam Gel








Decléor Paris

5. Recovery Ointment



Hanna Isul


2. Razor Burn Rescue

6. Multi-Active Shave



3. Willowbark Elixir

7. Stainless Steel Exfoliating Tool

Yüm Gourmet Skincare

Lé Edge

4. Rezone Sake Toner

8. Peppermint Cooling

RAW Men’s Skin Care

After Shave Balm


13 14


Page 50 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

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11 13


14 12



11 12

9. Joint & Muscle


15 13


12. Aromatherapy-Infused

Intensive Cream

Massage Balls


T Spheres

10. Numb It

13. Ice Flow Gel

PFB Vanish





11. Cool Therapy

14. All Natural Muscle Rub


Nardo’s Natural



August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 51

11 11 12 12 13 13 14 11 12 13 14


11 11


12 12


13 13


14 14






1. Purify Facial Scrub

4. Cleanse

Prana SpaCeuticals


2. Nourishing Cleanser

5. Smooth Exfoliating Care

Somme Institute

Provence Cosmetics

3. Derma Cleanser

6. Dermafile Exfoliation


Dermafile Professional


15 Page 52 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

the modern man

11 11


11 12


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Germaine de Capuccini

8. Drying Lotion

11. Moisturizing Gel ATZEN


9. Stonecrop Daily Moisturizer

12. Balancing



14 14

Ilike organics

14 15

10. Energy Extreme Mask




7. Facial Control

Sanitas Skincare



Bio-peptide Crème Image Skincare

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 53

the modern man


11 12 13 14












15 13




14 11 12 13 14

15 1. Face & Body Scrub

4. Aromatic Seaweed

Shira Esthetics

Bath & Shower Gel


2. Blue Azure Lukewarm Wax Laboratoires Reynard

5. Citrus Bamboo

Resurfacing Scrub Organic Male OM4

3. Body Scrub

With Bora Bora Sand



6. Rosemary & Herb

Facial Steam Syrup Shea Terra Organics

Page 54 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012



11 12 13 11 14 12 15




14 11


11 12

7. Replacement HairSonic TEI Spa Essentials





14 11 12

13 15


10. Exfoliating Scalp Mask

12. Speppermint Shave Soap

Philip Kingsley

Rinse Bath & Body Co.





8. Tahitian Tan Mist

11. H\E Facial Brush

South Seas Skincare

jane iredale — THE SKIN



13 15 14

13. Ease Capsules





August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 55

11 11 12 11


13 12 13 14 11


14 13





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1. Clear Skin


Probiotic Masque

Facial Moisturizer

Éminence Organic Skin Care

D’Vine Skin Care

2. SCS Biogel

5. Sensitivity and




14 6. Extra Action Scrub

14 Christina

15 7. Easy-Reach

Luskus Cosmetics

13 Relief Cream Redness

MD Corrective Care



3. Tonic Replenish


Lotus Moon

15Body Razor


15 Page 56 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

the modern man

11 11 12 12






13 14





15 15

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12 13







8. Moisturize

14 HydroPeptide


11. Total Wash


Face & Body Cleanser PCA Skin

14. Silver Gel


Ultimate Skin & Body Care ASAP 365

12. Daily Face Wash

15. Shelter Sunscreen Moisturizer

Eve Taylor

Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare

9. Sunscreen


SPF 30 UVA/UVB HydraFacial MD



10. Zen Attitude Serenity Care

13. Rx Complex Serum

Dr. Jules Nabet Skincare

Le Mieux Cosmetics

14 August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 57

photo: Oliveromg/

Page 58 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012




THE DAYS OF SPAS BEING DISMISSIVELY referred to as “pamper palaces” have past. In a time when people’s lives are uncertain on so many levels, spas today have established themselves as havens of peace, solace and rejuvenation. As we have come to understand that what stands in the way of this peace and tranquility is unmanageable stress, the well-trained spa therapist has become an indispensible player in health care. As they themselves encounter the stress of modern life, they work to reduce it for a growing number of their clients. Spa therapists address this toxic stress, which manifests itself in any number of symptoms. In this article, I am focusing on stress as it relates to heart health. Oriental medicine, as well as Ayurveda, looks at the body in terms of elemental energetics. These energetics express themselves in us physically, emotionally and spiritually. The names of these elements are metaphors: space or ether (sometimes also called wood or tree), fire, earth, air, metal and water. In an upcoming article, I will address each of these elements. This article focuses on fire, because it is the element associated with the heart. The heart and small intestine are the paired organs associated with fire

in Chinese medicine. Fire is also connected to our metabolic processes, including hormones, heat and the process by which our body gets and stays warm. The positive emotion associated with fire is joy. Seasonally, it is associated with the summer. With respect to each day, fire is associated with the middle of the day. The goal of the oriental healing systems is to bring into balance and support the ongoing movements and changes in the elements that naturally occur day to day, month to month, year to year and over the course of our lives. When it comes to the heart and the fire element, oriental healers taking a Western medical approach would easily agree that it would be prudent and safer for both the client and the spas to have an intake sheet to find out if a client suffers from high or low blood pressure. Some spas ask such questions, others do not. But there are other symptoms of stress on our heart that are taught in the tradition of oriental medicine. These can be quite useful to know, and they can be as clear as the nose on your face or the tone in your voice. They are symptoms you can notice in your client the minute they walk through the door. continues


In the practice of Ayurveda, the marma point known as Hridaya, located in the middle of the sternum is particularly useful, as applying gentle pressure to it allays anxiety.

When I mention the nose, I am not just speaking figuratively. Indeed, in Chinese facial diagnoses, one’s nose reflects the condition of their heart. It is a sign of heart stress when the end of a nose is pocked with ruts, swollen or noticeably red or purple. A red nose is seen as a sign that someone has consumed a little too much alcohol or been out in the cold. Both of these situations demand more from our heart, and the nose indicates the challenge to the fire element. However, if this redness persists beyond a night of too much wine or excessive time on the ski slope—especially if the coloration is leaning toward a more persistent purplish color—it is a clear indication that the heart needs attention. With respect to the voice, if you notice that the client’s speech is rapid or punctuated so that there are gaps in their dialogue, or if the voice squeaks at times, these too are signs of heart stress. Then, either by the tone of their voice or through your enquiry as to how they have been feeling lately, you may be able to hear the anxiety breaking through. Increased anxiety both aggravates and indicates stress on the heart. The same is true for the opposite of this anxiety, which expresses itself as a flatness in affect, a sense of listlessness where the individual can’t seem to really muster any heart. If your experience is like that of many therapists, you have noticed that saying what is on their mind is what clients often like to do while they are on your

table. Losing heart at work or in a relationship, feeling brokenhearted—such expressions go far beyond words. They often point to a heart under stress. When working with a person that one knows or suspects of having a heart condition—based either on observations and/or reported health data, be mindful of the pacing of how your client goes from vertical to horizontal (i.e., getting on and off a table or up and down from a chair). You may even venture to provide assistance in these motions. This is especially true if the therapies involve hot or cold applications. One should be mindful not to overly heat or cool down the area around the heart, either from the front of the chest or the back. Within the practice of Swedish-style massage, there is the common practice of applying friction strokes toward the heart. This is very supportive, but regrettably, I have not seen it practiced as often as I would like amongst therapists. Then there is the use of points in both the practice of Shiatsustyle therapies (that use various points for the fire element), as well as the marma points of Ayurveda, that are worth learning. In the practice of Ayurveda, the marma point known as Hridaya, located in the middle of the sternum is particularly useful, as applying gentle pressure to it allays anxiety. Regrettably, I recently heard of a municipality that does not allow therapists continues

Page 60 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Holbox /


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #146

spa|the heart of the matter

At the heart of it all, this is who we are at our best. When we create a lifestyle that supports heart health, when we receive a healing touch from loving hands and do the spiritual work of offering our hearts to the world, healing happens at every level extremely quickly. This is truly an amazing phenomenon to see. n Robert Sachs is a counselor, licensed massage therapist and educator. He is the author of Tibetan Ayurveda: Health Secrets From the Roof of the World and coauthor with Melanie Sachs of Ayurvedic Spa. Visit Sachs’ website at www.DiamondWayAyurveda. com, e-mail him at, call him toll-free at 866.303.3321 or phone/fax him at 805.543.9291.

Page 62 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Procy/

In the practice of more esoteric body work styles that deal with chakras, stones are sometimes used over the heart. The most commonly used ones are green.

to touch any points on a client’s chest. This is a sad commentary of a culture losing heart. In response to this sad turn of events in the massage industry, I would suggest that therapists encourage their clients to place their own fingertips (especially middle fingertips) on this point in the center of their sternum, breathe in and let go. At the same time, other points can be addressed. On the back of the client, the area around the spinous process of the sixth thoracic vertebra is associated with the marma of the heart. What is interesting about the gentle stimulation of these points is that they can only help. They alert the body to the nature of the imbalance of the region, and address the appropriate energetic healing to the area. Such is the natural gift of our bodies. When it comes to exercise and home care, clients should be discouraged from aerobic activity that evokes chaotic breathing (ie., when they get out of breath or are gasping). And although we think that sweating proves the value of exercise and is a great way to detoxify, oriental wisdom teaches that profuse sweating is injurious to the heart. Generally, we should only allow ourselves to exercise until we glisten or generate a small amount of perspiration. This is true for everyone, but especially those challenged by a heart condition. If foods are provided at your spa, and if you have the opportunity to teach your client about nutrition, they should be educated to cut back on their intake of salt, refined sugar, saturated fats, red meats, alcohol and caffeinated drinks. They should be encouraged to consume more fresh fruits and vegetables, and learn the joys

of adding herbs to the meat dishes and other foods, as the bitterness of herbs and green vegetables are supportive of the fire element. If they are great fans of butter on the foods they eat and in their cooking, suggest to them the use of clarified butter, known as ghee in Ayurveda. Ghee is considered by Ayurveda to be the only oil that nourishes the heart. Finally, in the practice of more esoteric body work styles that deal with chakras, stones are sometimes used over the heart. The most commonly used ones are green. Such stones are used to foster gentleness and a sense of loving peace. This can be quite nurturing. Going even deeper, it is said in the Tibetan tradition that the heart chakra associated with love gets blocked by anger and hatred. When we close ourselves off, desire good feelings only for ourselves and become possessive and jealous of our loved ones, the walls we create eventually become a prison. The doors just get heavier and heavier over time. Thus, in the Tibetan tradition, deep blue stones are used. Clients are encouraged to let go of feelings of anger and hatred, and come to a deeper understanding that what we see in the world around us is a reflection of who we are. As we come to such an understanding, empathy and love become natural—nothing is forced. After all, isn’t it true that we all come to see that our heart sings the most when we share, give love and offer compassion?







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MORE AND MORE MEN ARE DISCOVERING THE power of spa going for all the same reasons that women love it—personal grooming, a little pampering and the relaxation and rejuvenation that only quality spa time can provide. According to the International Spa Association, men make up about 20 percent of day and medical spa clientele, and around 30 plus percent of resort spa clientele. However, the other obvious side of the coin is that more than 70 percent of clientele consists solely of women, which means that many men either don’t know about the benefits of spa-going or still see it as a “girlie” thing, despite the fact that 50 percent of spas—especially in hotels and resorts—have added a selection of men’s treatments to their menus. So, how man-friendly is your spa? Stop and take a good look around through the eyes of a guy. From your treatment menu to its décor, your spa is sending out strong signals that will either entice men to come in and become repeat guests, or it will have them steering clear of your spa altogether. continues

BY KATHRYN STOLLE Page 64 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Goodluz/



August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 65

spa|how man friendly is your spa?

Spas that are serious about catering to their male clientele have made a few tweaks and changes over the past few years. You might want to consider implementing some of these into your spa, regardless of the size of your budget. • Decorate with neutral colors and furnishings that appeal to both men and women. Greys, taupes and other neutral colors soothe a man’s soul, making him feel far more at ease and comfortable than strongly feminine colors. • Seating large enough for wider male frames. Having to squeeze into chairs or other seating that is more suitable for a narrow female’s anatomy can start off any guy’s spa experience on the wrong foot. If you have double seating, consider two armchairs instead. This gives the man the option of not having to sit directly next to a woman. • Well-appointed male changing rooms. Skin care products or soaps, lotions and spray deodorants with a masculine scent—more herbal and less floral—should be kept in this area. It just might produce the added benefit of making your male guests more interested in purchasing products after his treatment. Try putting a small flat screen TV with a remote nearby in the room so they can keep up on the latest scores or check the markets. An electric shoe polisher or brush and a lint-free clothes brush will make the businessman feel especially appreciated. And ensure that the soap or body wash in the shower stall has a neutral scent as well. • Aromas and scents: Speaking of scents, look at the essential oils and aromas you employ to complement the atmosphere of your spa, and choose those that are more spicy and herbal (rather than floral). Cedarwood, sandalwood, lavender, bergamot, citrus, tangerine and ginger are all good picks—especially on days when male guests are expected. • Robes and slippers: One size definitely does NOT fit all! Make sure that you have robes that are big and roomy enough to accommodate a 6’ 5” frame and slippers big enough for size 13 feet! • Treatment tables and chairs: Not all chairs and tables are wide enough for a big guy (or gal, for that matter), especially facial chairs. If you are in the market for new equipment, consider what will work for both genders,

while ensuring that your therapists can provide treatments easily and without risk. • Artwork and posters: If your wall décor consists of art or posters that appeal primarily to women, try integrating posters that show men’s treatments, couples’ massages or sparelated art that appeals to both genders, such as stones, water or even tasteful body scapes. Use your imagination! • Reading material that appeals to men: Vogue, Elle and Cosmopolitan are perfect for the gals, but magazines like GQ, Forbes, Esquire, Time, Fortune or health and outdoor magazines geared to men will capture the interest of your male guests, especially continues


Page 66 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Auremar/

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Kathryn Stolle has more than 30 years of experience in hospitality and spa management. Since 1997, Stolle has been president of Total Spa Concepts, providing consulting services for a diverse number of spa projects. She designed and developed Canada’s first resort hotel spa. Stolle was elected to the board of directors from 1994-1998 for the International Spa Association in the U.S., and co-founded the Spa Industry Association of Canada, where she has served as treasurer and coordinator of their unique Quality Assurance program. Stolle is now a member of ISPA’s advisory board and focus group task force.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

Page 68 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Monkey Business Images/

when they’re having a pedicure or waiting in the lounge/reception area and don’t feel like chatting. • A well-merchandised selection of retail skin care products for men: Your retail area is one of the first things your spa guests see when they walk through the door. If you carry a men’s line, make sure it has enough visual prominence. If you don’t have a men’s line yet, take the plunge and add one for professional and retail use. Consider adding a few props, like an 8 x 10 photo of a man receiving a facial or having a pedicure, a stand with a razor and shaving brush, a couple sleeves of golf balls, a ball cap or whatever else you can think of to make your retail display more appealing. If nothing else, carrying a men’s product line says, “We love and respect our male guests.” The main thing to strive for after you get men in the door is making them feel comfortable and welcome within your spa’s environment. If you can make that happen, you can expect to see them come back—again and again! n

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #148 on reader service card


THE HOLISTIC ELEMENTS OF A resort spa destination were the inspiration for the Vichy Shower. A vacationer’s delight, the city of Vichy, France has five natural mineral hot springs in the French countryside, each represented by the five to seven shower heads mounted atop a Vichy shower. Also known as a table shower massage, this relaxing and therapeutic water massage is one of the most intriguing and effective treatments available to spa clients. The male skin type tends to be more oily and thicker than that of women, thus requiring regular exfoliation. Guests with oily skin tend to have a thicker epidermis layer, prone to the production of excessive sebum. Exfoliation acts to


deep cleanse the oil from skin, removing dead skin cells and impurities from deep within the pores. In addition, it provides for a softer overall appearance. What makes the Vichy Shower marketable and appealing to men is that it combines elements from two indulgences they are already used to: hot tubs and massages. After a casual round of golf, hitting the weights or even a stressful day sitting in the office, nothing is more appealing than a hot tub and massage. The Vichy shower creates a one-of-a-kind full-body massage and skin conditioning experience. The body treatment is essentially a facial for your whole body, and leaves your skin feeling velvety smooth and soft. Men will enjoy the comfort and relaxation of the treatments without the mentality of “getting a spa treatment.”

It helps us feel like we’re retaining our masculinity in some sense, even while indulging in something special. Selecting a shower with a durable stainless steel construction provides ease in maintenance and performance. Lying on the Vichy Shower’s waterproof massage table makes it very easy to rinse off ingredients. Therapists are able to adjust the water temperature on the thermostat to accommodate each client’s preference. There are many ways to use a Vichy shower, incorporating a cascade of sound, light and water to enhance the experience on all senses. The therapist can adapt water pressure to cleanse, stimulate and soothe the soft tissues of the body. Furthermore, applying distinct massage techniques will enhance the treatments.

Page 70 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Yanik Chauvin/


PRODUCTS NEEDED • Body scrub • Essential oil blend • Hydrating rich lotion • Product warmer • Product bowl • Vichy Shower • Hot stones (optional) Other product options include: body muds, body wraps, algae and milk masks. PREPARATION • Using a product bowl, warm body scrub mixture in product warmer 10 minutes before treatment (amount of product depends on the size of the client). • Prepare wet room table with bath towels and head pillow. • Fill sink with warm to hot water, August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

and add 4-6 drops of your chosen essential oil blend. CONTRAINDICATIONS Not recommended if the client has had recent surgery or cancer within the last five years, or experienced any of the following: • Pregnancy • High blood pressure • Heart problems • Heat/steam intolerance • Fear of water • Very sensitive skin BENEFITS • Improves circulation; combats aches, pains, fatigue and stress; removes dead skin cells, loosens toxins, softens skin; enhances immunity.

PROCEDURE STEP 1: Client undresses and showers (may wear bathing suit or spa disposable). STEP 2: Assist client into the treatment room and explain the procedure. Contra­ indications should be stated, even with repeat clients. STEP 3: Client lies on their back on the treatment table, over a body towel. STEP 4: Therapist drapes the client in preparation for treatment, exposing only the part of the body being worked on. STEP 5: Gently apply body exfoliation product, using circular hand movements, starting with the arms and legs. The abdomen and chest should be done last, as these areas are sensitive. Adjust pressure according to clicontinues • Page 71

spa|vichy shower ent feedback. If extreme sensitivity occurs, discontinue treatment. STEP 6: After the front of the body has been exfoliated, the Vichy water comes out! As the water runs, gently move along body limbs, moving hands in circular motions to help remove product. You may also want to gently place a light cotton towel over the client’s face to minimize the amount of water being splashed into their mouth and nose.

For some Vichy showers, this isn’t a problem due to updated designs, but for older systems this possibility may need to be taken into consideration. STEP 7: (Optional) Maximize essential oil in their steam state by using an oil blend geared toward cellulite reduction, circulation or muscle therapy to massage the entire body, limb to limb. Another excellent option at this time might be to incorporate a hot stone treatment with your Vichy water, allowing muscles to unwind and relax. STEP 8: When finished with the front of the body, have your client turn over, and replace the existing body towel with a clean, dry body towel. Drape client in preparation for treatment. Repeat steps 5 and 6 (and 7, if desired). STEP 9: Re-drape the table with dry towels. Step 10: On towel-dried body, apply hydrating lotion. Step 11: Recommend at-home body care products and accessories. Re-book!

Andrew Cripps is the chief wellness officer of Terra Dolce, a Florida based natural skin and body care manufacturer and spa resource partner. For information about Terra Dolce, visit Contact Cripps at and follow him daily on twitter @terra_dolce. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #209 on reader service card

Page 72 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


WAYS TO CUSTOMIZE AND ADD VARIETY INCLUDE: • Type of exfoliation (salt, sugar, grain) • Type of oil (carrier oils, blends or specific essential oils) • Type of body mask (dead sea mud, clays, algae) • Essential oil benefits are maximized in steam state • Water temperature/speed n

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August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

REJUVENATING REFRESHMENT Your male clients will love waking up to a shower with the Wash With Joe™ Coffeemint Invigorating Bodywash. The stimulating formula is a balanced blend of pure coffee, peppermint essential oil, glycerin, panthenol and meadowfoam seed oil is packed with antioxidants that works great on all skin types.

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MORE NEWS • Page 73



FOOT FRESHENER Athletic, sporty clients will love the Runway Ready Luxury Foot Treatment by Dermelect Cosmeceutical, a super charged formula of peptide-infused technology that renews and restores the look and feel of rough, tired feet. Top quality ingredients work together to exfoliate calloused skin, reduce inflammation from overworked feet and calm inflammation, says the company. The fresh, natural scent is perfectly suited to men or women.


BLEMISH BLASTER The ID Anti-Acne, Anti-Aging Face, Chest, Back and Body Exfoliating Lotion from VMV Hypoallergenics provides antiinflammatory treatment to effectively clear up acne, ingrown hairs and other unwanted blemishes, says the company. The light, hydrating lotion nourishes and moisturizes the skin without clogging pores, and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles. The lotion is among the products in the ID Beta Hydroxy Acid Clarifying System by VMV Hypoallergenics for men and women.

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The Organic Glycerin Soap Bar from Soap Walla addresses common male skin issues. Made with rosewood, cedar and clay, the bar works well on oily or acne-prone skin without overdrying it, says the company. It is an ideal shaving bar for men who shave every day.

SORENESS SOLUTION Provide some indulgent relief for clients who are achy, sore or stressed out with something to soothe their overworked muscles. The TheraPearl® line of hot/ cold packs are designed to aid in any minor aches and pains, and deliver some relaxation and stress reduction. Created originally for use in medical spas for cosmetic procedures, the therapeutic packs feature a unique technology that is reusable and non-toxic, says the company.

SENSATIONALLY SOFT The Beard Scent™ finger/ beard balm by Jao Brand is the perfect impulse retail item for your male clientele. This multi-purpose balm appeals to wellgroomed men on many levels, as it moisturizes skin, tames flyaway facial hair and softens cuticles, says the company.


6 essential steps to attract and retain male clients

photo: Tyler Olson/

by Dori Soukup

ALTHOUGH THE SPA INDUSTRY IS evolving and men are definitely visiting spas, they still only represent slightly more than 20 percent of spa visitors. How about your facility? What is the ratio of women to men in your business, and what are you doing to capture more male clientele? The reason that spas all over the world do not capture more men is current positioning. Let’s face it—from the menu, the website, the décor to the experience, most spas cater to women ... and not so much to men. Let’s say you have a clothing store that’s filled with women’s clothes, except for one rack for men. How many men do you think will come in to shop there? Not many! However, that is what is happening in the spa industry. When you look at a spa menu, you are unlikely to see a picture of a man anywhere, and you might see one facial for men listed on the treatment menu. Why would men come? If you want to increase your male clientele, you have to make some changes. Follow these six essential steps to attract and retain male clientele and experience exponential growth in your spa! 1. Male menu: Create a separate menu for males with its own identity. It should have male images and a masculine design. Treatment descriptions should be kept simple, focusing on how they address men’s concerns, and the benefits the client will gain from the experience. Use language that explains how to spa and appeals to men. 2. Website: Millions of consumers are surfing the Internet, and many potential clients are finding you online. You may be investing in Google Adwords and SEO to drive people to your website. But when men visit your site, are they feeling welcomed? In most cases, you won’t find a men’s page or even many August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

male images on a spa website. Instead of having one button simply labelled “Menu,” try dividing the menu into parts. Have separate links to menus specifically for men, women and teens. This allows you to improve your communication to each target market and customize your offerings to suit each individual’s needs. 3. E-marketing: Get sophisticated with your database, and segment it by gender, age and so on. Once it is segmented, don’t just send one email blast to everyone. Instead, create at least two email messages: one for men and another for women. By doing this, you will increase your conversion rate and revenue. 4. Product mix: Fortunately, there are many professional spa brands that offer male specific products. It is essential to have a male product line. Go beyond skin care products and include other items that will appeal to men. Also, be aware of how you merchandise male products. Designate an area in your boutique specifically for men. 5. The male guest experience: The male guest experience must be created with men in mind, from robes and slippers designed for men to male-oriented reading material, treatment protocols and rituals. If you want to attract men to your spa, your facility must be decorated to please both men and women. To improve your male guest experience, send in a couple of male secret shoppers. Get their feedback on their experience, what they liked and what needs improvement. This will give you insight from a man’s perspective about what to change to better attract and retain male clientele. 6. Team training: Recently, I was speaking with one of my mentors, and he shared his latest spa experience with

me. He had gone for a massage and liked his experience, but no one bothered to ask him to come back! Men need reminders—ask any married woman! Part of your team training should cover how to retain your male clients, and what communication methods men prefer. There are many aspects of catering to male clientele that your team will need training in. You must address how to communicate with male clients, identify their concerns, discuss treatments and products with them, reserve their next experience, sign them up for a membership program and so on. Attracting men to the spa requires changing the way we do things. I encourage you to implement these six steps to increase your overall capacity and elevate your success! n Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@ • Page 75

photo: Stockbyte/Getty Images

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beyond the shave male centered customer service

Getting to know men’s skin Men do care about their skin, though they often know very little about how to take care of it. This presents a great opportunity for you to build, educate and maintain a loyal customer base. With the right amount of education, men can be eased into feeling comfortable with their skin care.

What you need to know • Men are at higher risk for skin cancer because they spend more time outdoors and do not wear makeup. In fact, men are twice as likely as women to have basal cell cancers, and about three times as likely to have squamous cell cancers of the skin. Sunscreen is an everyday necessity (on bald and shaved

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

heads too). Topical antioxidants and vitamin C should also be encouraged for male clients. • Men’s skin is one and a half to two times thicker than women’s skin. To penetrate through thicker skin, products for men should be manufactured at a much lower pH than products for women. • Male skin is oilier than women’s skin. Instead of oil-based products, men should use light, moisture-bearing ones. Suggest products that leave skin smooth, soft and dry to the touch. Due to its oiliness, as well as the significantly larger size of the pores, men’s skin can attract more dirt and germs. Deep cleansing keeps pores clear and skin healthy. A gentle cleanser with AHAs (glycolic is the least reactive) is essential for healthy, clean skin. • Men’s skin tends to be inflamed. Natural moisturizing ingredients—mango, shea butter, aloe, licorice and tea tree oil— are antiseptic, calm the skin and help with shaving. If your male clients like the feel of a scrub, educate them to use one that has small, round scrubbing particles. They should stay away from facial scrubs that contain rough elements such as ground bits of nut or seed extracts because they will tear and damage the skin.

By positioning your skin care services and products as results-oriented and providing educational customer service, you stand to score loyal male customers.

Educating male clients Your male clients may have different skin care goals from one another. However, one thing they all have in common is their expectation that you will educate them. • Keep it simple. Focus on four basic steps: cleansing, shaving, toning and protecting. • Play to their utilitarian nature. Men approach products like this: “If I’m going to use this, I need to see and feel a result quickly.” For most men, a product’s performance is related to a specific task, such as reviving tiredcontinues


THE DAYS WHEN MEN HAD TO SNEAK beauty products from their wife’s side of the bathroom counter are over. With male grooming garnering attention from The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, and countless movies and television shows, guys have the potential to be a skin professional’s shining light. Proof that men are stepping up beyond the shave from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons: • Males now spend $3.5 billion a year on plastic surgery. • In 2011, there were 11,000 facelifts performed on men, up three percent from 2010. • Eighty-three percent of men are attracted to products that are specifically packaged for them. The stigma has definitely faded from “primping,” and men are searching to maintain or regain a vibrant image. By positioning your skin care services and products as results-oriented and providing educational customer service, you stand to score loyal male customers. • Page 77

business|beyond the shave

looking eyes, smoothing cracked hands or soothing sore feet. Use the facts. Whereas women are often led by emotion, men are attracted to data. Additionally, lead your chat with a step that you know will work for them. For example, “Men are at a higher risk of skin cancer than women, and you are outside a lot as a tennis coach. Sunscreen is critical each and every day.” Make it multi-purpose. Men are not going to dedicate a lot of time to a skin care routine. Encourage the benefits of two-in-one and three-in-one products. In the morning, they can cleanse and apply a moisturizing sunscreen; at night, there are many glycolic and retinol combination products for gentle resurfacing after cleansing. Show them the value. When they see the value in their investment, they will spend money and commit to a program that works. Engage them to share their knowledge. Once you get them hooked, male clients are very loyal. Arm them with a “friend and family” rate to give out. Offer them incentives to book ahead and come back regularly for treatments, as well as continue their at-home routine. Understand the women in their lives. Sixtytwo percent of purchases for men are made by women. To start establishing a male clientele, target advertising and in-house marketing to females. n

Use the facts. “Men are at a higher risk of skin cancer than women, and you are outside a lot as a tennis coach. Sunscreen is critical each and every day.”

Celeste Hilling is the founder and CEO of Skin Authority. She is also the host of the nation­ ally syndicated Internet radio show “Skin Health TODAY,” where Hilling pulls from her more than 15 years of experi­ ence in the spa and lifestyle industries. Hilling helps consumers take charge and make smart choices for healthy skin and positive self image. Go to or

With men accounting for 30 percent of their clients, the team at Gene Juarez knows how to attract the guys. Lise Corriveau, Skin Care Department Director at Gene Juarez Salon and Spa, shares her expertise on how to market to males. “Men are a little intimidated at first to come to the spas,” she explains. “They are often booked by their wife, girlfriend, female friend, etc. We host events strictly for men, where we offer 30-minute facials and shoulder and back massages. The events are an awesome way to introduce men to what we do in the spas and take away the intimidation. We add fun by teaming up with a local brewery, sports bar, gym and golf resort. The events are always sold out!” Gene Juarez has a menu geared specifically to men, which includes facials, massages, manis, pedis and hair services.

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photo: Vascorocha/


Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #129 on reader service card

PLANNING YOUR STRATEGY FOR SOME SPA AND BUSINESS OWNERS, MANY THINGS have changed over the years. As a result, a high revenue is more difficult to achieve than it once was. The days of voluminous spa gift certificate sales have ebbed and many estheticians are working reduced appointment hours. Some have seen the doors to their once thriving spas close for good. While there has certainly been a few bright spots for the spa industry in the United States, a country where sales have somehow managed to hold on, most spas have suffered as a result of the stubborn economic downturn. And yet, this isn’t at all a “doom and gloom” scenario, at least not for everyone committed to a career in a spa or esthetics profession. However, it is a wonderful opportunity to redesign or reposition your business or practice in a way that might have been an ideal starting point at the very beginning. In other words, we can still get it right—better now than never! Here are a few perspectives and outright predictions that I think the savvy esthetician and spa business professional would do well to consider if trade has been trending away from where you want it to be: 1. Business scope. My original business model was limited to skin care, makeup and a little body waxing. The idea was not to be the biggest in any service category, only the best in it. Our overhead was low and under control. Our service menu was small and very results-specific. Our ability to withstand economic downturns was enhanced by low debt and facility costs, and a great word of mouth reputation. We had a lot of room to back up before going bust, and I loved the fact that we had only a couple of employees to affect the cash flow.


Then, we morphed into a day spa concept and, while successful, our expenses ballooned, the additional work removed us from technical roles to those of business managers (which had never been a part of my true career aspirations), and cash always seemed to be in painfully short supply. The simple fact is that most day spa customers spend only a short amount of time at the facility, and do not demand the amenities and costly luxuries that so many of us have built into them.


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photo: Yuri Arcurs/


photo: Ferenc Cegledi/


Strategy: Take a serious look at your sales and customer patronage history. Decide what the demand is and where you make the most profit. Then focus your business on that, and commit to being the best in that area. The narrower your focus, the easier it is to provide the highest possible service quality. 2. Service pricing. The previous years of day spas providing costly esthetic skin care treatments drove service prices beyond what the average consumer would justify, particularly factoring in current economic realities. The indiscriminate (and perhaps ruinous for some) rush toward Groupon sales and other discounting vehicles has placed further downward pricing pressure on spa services. This has resulted in a broad-market shift toward lower priced services, affecting both potential new customers and luring away regular clients who were feeling dubious about the quality of care they were receiving for the price they had been paying for it. For spa owners who are heavily freighted with fixed expenses, the idea or fact of sustained service price reductions is simply an impossible one. Many consumers are now coming to expect price incentives as a permanent part of their consumer experience, and discount sellers are seeing that continuing to chop prices for them is the only way to sustain business among these shoppers. Strategy: Focus your sales on attracting customers that want your superior quality services at a price that’s attractive to them, then configure your business and expenses to thrive on volume sales at that new pricing level. In my new skin care business, I research what I feel is the consumer “sweet spot” for service fees, and then plan the business to succeed within that income structure. Of course, retail and upgrades do factor in, but this plan is not a “bait and switch” gimmick. Customers receive top quality treatments and customer service for a comparatively low price. This has brought back many former skin care clients lost to ever ascending service fees. Remember, you don’t need a palace to satisfy a skin care customer’s desire for a great treatment, but you certainly must charge them more than you have to in order to provide it in an opulent setting. 3. Retail products. The Internet has made most professional skin care brands available, and for some spas, the branding of key products has brought clients in the door. However, the number of small business operators needed in order to make those sales expand and be profitable in order to compete with online stores is a challenge. Far too many spa customers make a single brand purchase on a site and then Google the product for an easy deal. The loss of this business to online discounting has been colossal, and it’s still growing! Strategy: Partially or fully replace known brands with your own branded spa lines that you own and control access to. An additional bonus to this is that every time your guest applies the product, it reminds them of their great experience at your spa! 4. User ratings! Love it or hate it, we all have to live with these privately run businesses that have shrewdly positioned August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


themselves as hubs of all “unbiased” feedback, based on the quality of consumer goods and services. But how many of us have been the victim of abuse by unethical competitors and vengeful former employees that post totally bogus reviews on these sites? We are then forced to attempt (mostly in vain) to challenge these unfair posts, only to learn that the so-called unbiased posting can actually be mitigated by purchasing an advertising plan by that site. Suddenly, more of those “truthful” yet filtered reviews your happy customers write are allowed onto the visible list. Call this practice what you will—the fact is that anything less than four out of five star reviews are the kiss of death for those businesses that are pinned with them, and you need to do everything you can to keep your star rating as close to five as possible. Strategy: Ask as many of your clients as possible to post a positive review on such sites. However, make sure that your customer has more than a few previous reviews on other businesses in the system of any given site. Don’t flood the site with an avalanche of glowing reviews on your spa or service. The people behind these sites view this as a manipulation of their system. And remember, it can take only a single negative review to kick you down a star ladder, so keep a constant eye on those reviews—and move quickly to correct any problems you may discover there. There are any number of competing business review sites potential customers can refer to, and fair or not, many busy potential customers accept those reviews as legitimate indicators of the quality of a business. 5. Love what you do and don’t stop doing it. Some of my colleagues have asked me why I returned to hands-on esthetics after so many years of writing about it, speaking about it and teaching it. The reason is simple. In a 29-year career as a skin care authority and professional, nothing has proven to be more personally gratifying and enjoyable to me than practicing with clients. It’s what I originally desired to do, and after a full career as an educator, author, private label product leader, mentor and more, all of it has paled in satisfaction for me against the daily interaction with clients, who have real concerns about their appearance. The magic of meeting, analyzing and treating each individual customer has not waned whatsoever for me, even continues • Page 81

business|be prosperous in the final quarter of 2012 after performing thousands of services. This is the work I truly love to do, and there is no reason to not continue doing it. Few are lucky enough to feel this way after years of occupational or professional dedication, and the esthetician is no different than the physician, dentist, psychoanalyst or attorney who must maintain a long haul private practice in order to generate a personal income from their discipline. Somehow, a number of estheticians seem to feel that a lifetime of skin care service, or a return to it after years of hiatus, equates a regressive career act. It’s as if the goal of the skin care professional should be to terminate the role as soon as possible in order to do something more “respectable,” or perhaps more financially rewarding than practical esthetics. I couldn’t disagree more with this way of thinking. A well run esthetics practice can be a very lucrative and spiritually enriching occupation. Given the fact that countless estheticians frequently migrate from spa to spa, limit their working hours to a number far below those available to them, and decline to retail products or suggest upgraded services to clients, it is easy to understand why the U.S. Government Bureau of Labor cites the average annual earnings of professional estheticians at a mere $23,330, with a medical esthetician making up to $33,000. But, independent and solo estheticians often do not fare much better, and not even as well in many cases. It is also true that skin care practices (or hair salons for that matter) in which the founding practitioner decides to stop performing services and instead simply run the business as a manager, frequently suffers a loss of character, customer satisfaction and employees. This is especially common when the practitioner whose name appears on the business steps entirely out of operations into a “behind the scenes” or offsite role. Quality, loyalty and direction all can quickly evaporate from the company, leaving it bereft of customers and cash. Stay with your practice and make it into what you want it to be. You can do well if you remain focused, keep your costs low, your service prices realistic and your efficiency per client at its absolute best. You do not need to be a day spa in order to achieve this, nor does a day spa need to be everything it has been in the past to please and retain happy customers. Start with your heart and keep your ideas close to that source of inspiration. The rest will follow naturally. n Douglas Preston is the owner and operator of Preston Private Label Products, and a business consultant and lecturer for the spa industry. Preston contributes as an editorial ad­ visor to several industry publications. Preston previously served as presi­ dent of the Aesthetics International Association (AIA), as well as committee chairman for The Day Spa Association (DSA). In 2006, Preston was named The Day Spa Association’s “Spa Person of the Year.” Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #183 on reader service card

Page 82 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #162 on reader service card


MEN’S SALON, HARLEM, NY I HAVE ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT there was nothing sexier than a well groomed man! The smell of a man’s cologne or the sight of a fresh haircut … oh wow! I have enjoyed the opportunity to work with a few of the most handsome leading men in show business, including such stars as Usher, George Hamilton, Brian McKnight, John O’Hurley and Gregory Hines. I have been a leading lady in numerous Broadway productions, including CHICAGO and Smokey Joe’s Café. I was blessed to receive a 1995 Tony Award nomination, an NAACP Theater Award, the city of Chicago’s Jefferson Award and the Grammy Award for Best Cast Album. However, as with many in show business, I started to see fewer and fewer great roles being offered, and I was hit with the realization that I needed to find my next great passion. My idea for BBRAXTON was sparked by a magazine article about a new couple preparing to go out to dinner. The gentleman put on a pair of sandals that

showed off his non-manicured feet! He admitted to being interested in receiving foot care, but not wanting to go to a woman’s salon. This was my “Aha!” moment, which peaked my interest in researching how to bring a service to my neighborhood: Harlem, NY. I wanted to create a facility that was different, and took grooming and the art of barbering to another level. My research also revealed that there was nothing upscale for African American and Latino gentlemen, whose grooming needs can be very different. There were no barbershops in the area that offered grooming services for gentlemen with locks or dreads. And there were no shops that offered any spa services such as massage and skin care. So in 2006, I added entrepreneur to my resume and launched BBRAXTON: Exceptional Grooming for Exceptional Men, a men’s grooming salon in Harlem, NY. The facility is the first of its kind that occupies 2,000 square feet of storefront in one of the city’s first “green” luxury high rise condominiums. The


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photos courtesy of Brenda Braxton


BBRAXTON men’s salon offers men’s grooming services for the astute customer in a neighborhood that continues to evolve while maintaining its elegant charm. It combines the atmosphere of a traditional gentlemen’s club, barber shop and spa, offering services such as hot towel straight razor shaves, haircuts, styling, lock maintenance, reflexology, massage and skin care. Patrons can also enjoy a beverage and catch up on the news as they have their hand and foot needs addressed. The salon features a state of the art audio system and flat screen panels. BBRAXTON also provides VIP transportation through Exclusive Transportation Inc., an independent limo service for clients on a tight schedule. We offer BBRAXTON Exceptional Man Memberships that allow our gentlemen a discount on services, which can be purchased in either one year or six month packages. When BBRAXTON was launched, I was starring on Broadway in CHICAGO with Rita Wilson, and would soon be starring opposite Usher! This made PR and marketing a no brainer. The story behind the Broadway actress turned BBRAXTON barber shop owner was featured on two local New York City television stations,

business as well as in Black Enterprise Magazine, EBONY, The New York Times, Daily News, Vibe, The New Yorker and UPTOWN. I was the only woman honored with a “Men of Style Award,” presented by Gillette Fusion. The BBRAXTON journey has been quite the challenge. Initially, many people could not grasp the idea of a “gentlemen only” grooming parlor, not to mention a woman as the owner! BBRAXTON is special not only because it has found it’s niche, but also because it is managed from a woman’s perspective. We know what we like to see in our gentlemen, and BBRAXTON is the perfect place to gently introduce them to additional services, such as hair removal, skin care and hand/foot care. In November of 2009, I made the difficult decision to close the doors of BBRAXTON in order to restructure the company. The management team was not properly functioning and needed to be replaced. We were also having difficulty with theft among our employees, and I was experiencing personal challenges as well. The first few years as a new business owner and entrepreneur are the hardest, especially if you have to juggle your “real job” and your new business. My absence in the day to day running of the business took it’s toll on the company. Not many businesses have been able to rebound after a year’s “intermission” and come back stronger than ever in the same location, but I am proud to say that BBRAXTON was able to!

Initially, many people could not grasp the idea of a “gentlemen only” grooming parlor, not to mention a woman as the owner! BBRAXTON took on an investor, which allowed a grand re-opening in 2011, and the issues we had dealt with previously were resolved. A team was put into place to address the needs of the company. Gary Clark, a master barber and manager with over 20 years of barbering experience is now part of the BBRAXTON team. Most importantly, I have been able to be at the salon on a day to day basis. We now have a wonderful staff of five barbers, two massage therapists, two nail technicians and two estheticians. Additionally, we have expanded the brand to include the BBRAXTON Grooming Academy. This is a communitybased initiative to provide neighborhood seniors with complimentary grooming services on a regular basis, while training apprentice barbers in the art of grooming. With hands-on training, academy members will gain immeasurable knowledge of grooming etiquette equivalent to grooming schools. Unfortunately, the challenge for the Academy has been acquiring grants to supply transportation for the seniors and salaries of our master barbers. But the BBRAXTON Academy does have an apprentice who has con-

tinued his training and is ready to move forward as a trained grooming specialist. BBRAXTON represents a combination of unique services, outstanding location and interaction with clients. By providing clients with a gentleman’s club atmosphere and world class services, BBRAXTON builds relationships of trust and satisfaction. One beautiful thing about being in the men’s grooming industry is that African American and Latino gentlemen tend to have weekly hair care services. Whether it’s a full haircut or just a razor line, they will need our services. We ensure that each visit to BBRAXTON is a relaxing and memorable experience; we want clients to feel that they can always depend on our brand of service. Today’s multi-billion dollar health and beauty industry has begun targeting gentlemen with a variety of new hair and skin care products. The future plans for the BBRAXTON brand include developing a shave and skin care line, as well as expansion of the salon into Atlanta, Washington, Chicago, the Virgin Islands and Haiti. Regardless of income, all men need grooming, and make an effort to find money available to style their “look.” BBRAXTON is dedicated to consistently providing world class service and high quality products while furnishing an enjoyable, relaxing atmosphere at an acceptable value. The goal of BBRAXTON— beyond being a profitable business, is being a trusted destination. n

Brenda Braxton is a native New Yorker and owner of BBRAXTON Gentle­ men’s Grooming Parlor. She if a for­ mer Broadway performer and Tony award nominee. Braxton has received the Dr. Martin Luther King “Living the Dream” award for her work as found­ er of Leading Ladies Just for Teens, the Josephine Baker Award from the National Council of Negro Women and the Community Service award from the National Association of Negro Business Women. Contact Braxton at August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 85

photo: Corbis/©2012 Jupiterimages Corporation

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CELLULAR RESPIRATION AND AGING SKIN EVERY LIVING BEING ON THIS PLANET IS kept alive by the air that we breathe. Yet air is not something that we think about as our sustenance of life. Rather, it is seen as part of our environment, as is the water that we drink and the sun that brings light into our day. It is because of this that we as a species so quickly look elsewhere for more sophisticated and complex solutions to address the concerns of our health and well-being, often overlooking the obvious.

Ambient air When we think of air, we immediately think of oxygen. By definition, the ambient air that we are immersed in is an odorless, tasteless, colorless and gaseous mixture made up of approximately 78 percent nitrogen and only 21 percent oxygen, along with minute amounts of other gases including argon, carbon dioxide, hydrogen, neon and helium. Higher levels of oxygen make us feel more energetic and alert, hence the reason that the best casinos in Las Vegas pump extra levels of oxygen into the air to keep us moving all night long. Lower levels of oxygen make us sleepy and lethargic, hence the reason that there is less oxygen on airplanes, specifically during takeoff.

Oxygen and cellular aging Oxygen that we breathe and absorb is responsible for life itself via cellular respiration, in that it is one of the vital components needed to create

Adenosine Tri Phosphate (ATP) in the mitochondria. ATP is the body’s primary source of cellular energy, and is responsible for all cellular activity, from the most basic to the most complex, including our ability to process thought, movement of muscles, healing and regeneration. The more cellular energy that we have in the form of ATP, the better, faster and more effectively our bodies will function in every way. Studies indicate that by the time we reach the age of 60, our ATP levels of cellular energy will have decreased by as much as 50 percent. While the rate of incoming “attackers” in the form of free radicals and pollutants stays constant and our ATP levels become depleted, our ability to mitigate, regenerate and repair damage becomes more and more challenging. The buildup of damage over time is in essence the process of aging.

Zeolite Zeolites are microporous aluminosilicate minerals that are used in a myriad of different types of filtering systems for both gases and liquids. With regard to gases, zeolite can be used as a molecular sieve to segregate nitrogen from oxygen, effectively allowing for a more pure form of oxygen to be captured for use. Because of zeolite technology, the use of pre-filled oxygen canisters and tanks in medical environments have quickly become a thing of the past and replaced with what are referred to as oxygen concentrators. 4

BY DAVID SUZUKI August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 87


Oxy jets are just as they sound, probelike hand pieces that “jet” air to the skin with trumpet shaped tips.

The revolution of this new technology has had an amazingly positive impact on the quality of life for those who suffer from diseases such as Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease (COPD), Interstitial Lung Disease, Emphysema and Pneumonia, which all frequently require higher doses of cellular respiration in the form of oxygen. The technology can be compact enough that some manufacturers have been able to make them somewhat mobile, powering them via rechargeable batteries. Besides diseases that require higher levels of respiration, oxygen has also been known to greatly speed up the process of wound healing, and specifically the choice for burn victims due to its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties.

via the wand, using concentrated pressurized oxygen without the hands having to touch the skin. This is a perfect application after wet or dry microdermabrasion—or any service that may leave the skin sensitive. This is also the favorite application for skin therapists who work “on site” with movie and television actors and models, to perfect their skin before the high definition cameras move in! After the product is applied to the skin, the skin therapist will continue to flood the skin surface with oxygen via the wand, which greatly enhances product absorption and cellular respiration, allowing for smooth, picture perfect skin.

Oxy dome The oxy dome is another common accessory, and is essentially a plastic dome mask that covers the entire face. The oxygen supply tube is then connected to the dome, where the oxygen is then dispersed and contained. In essence, we are able to create a fully contained oxygen environment, which maximizes cellular respiration evenly over the entire face using a hands-free application. It is common to apply a product with the oxy wand, putting a pre-saturated mask on the skin, and then the dome over the top for 10-15 minutes, time permitting. Maximizing cellular respiration prior to LED and or microcurrent services is strategic, as both microcurrent and LED have been proven to have a profound effect on ATP synthesis. If we can supply the mitochondria with oxygen prior to such services, the results can be magnified.

Oxygen and skin

Oxy jets

Because of the profound affect that cellular respiration has on the synthesis of ATP and the immediate effect that ATP has on the texture, color, and consistency of the skin, oxygen concentrators have quickly found their way into the world of esthetics. Oxygen concentrators are available in a variety of styles, sizes and prices, most having the capability of using two to three key accessories. Good quality oxygen concentrators have the capability of delivering 85 to 95 percent pure oxygen to the skin, nearly five times the amount present in the ambient air.

Oxy jets are just as they sound, probe-like hand pieces that “jet” air to the skin with trumpet shaped tips. They are used with pressurized pulsed oxygen to help create temporary pathways, encouraging product absorption. They can be used on the entire face and neck with the larger tips (1/4”), or in specific, targeted areas with smaller tips (1/8”). This application allows for very specific areas of concern to be addressed in conjunction with strategic focused products.

The most common accessory used in oxygen based skin care is the oxy wand, which is essentially an airbrush. Thinner viscosity products such as serums can be delivered to the skin

As you can imagine, any one of the oxygen accessories discussed can be used successfully on its own, as a splash or accent service in any facial. Alternatively they can all be used together concurrently, creating the ultimate oxygen continues

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photo courtesy of Bio-Therapeutic

Oxy wand

Accent or stand alone?

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #335 on reader service card


Oxygen is as organic as it gets, used for every function of every living creature, every moment of every day.


facial. When they are used together, it is beneficial to start the service with wet or dry microdermabrasion to create the ultimate perfect pallet. Next, we suggest applying a strategic product with the oxy wand, and continue to use the wand with oxygen until the product is completely absorbed. Apply specific products in key areas to address areas of concern; expression aging, nasal labials, or fine lines and wrinkles around the eye, and use the oxy jets to encourage product absorption and plumping. To complete the facial, apply a pre-saturated oxygen mask to the entire face and use the oxy dome for 10-15 minutes. If your schedule permits, you may layer LED or microcurrent directly after this fabulous oxygen service!

Oxygen topicals Many topical ingredients have been developed to increase cellular respiration within the skin in an effort to ramp up local ATP levels. This, in turn, allows for a very rapid improvement of the appearance of the skin, primarily noticeable in its texture, color and firmness. Such products are excellent for professional use as well as home use by the client while they are receiving oxygen services. Oxygen is as organic as it gets, used for every function of every living creature, every moment of every day. Concentrating this natural resource to better our well being and the appearance of our skin is brilliant! If you are not already using oxygen in your business, look into it. You will truly be amazed at the difference you can make for every client’s skin with just a little bit of air! n

David Suzuki, president of BioTherapeutic, Inc., has been an active licensed member of the esthetics industry for more than 18 years. He is an authority on technology and regulatory is­ sues, including FDA submission and acquisition. Suzuki serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at or visit Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card

photo: Yuri Arcurs/


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MARKETING TO MALES THE “BOYZILLIAN,” “MANICURE” and “Brotox” are popular words at spas and med spas these days. Fifteen years ago, these guy-specific procedures were performed very sporadically, but today’s man wants to look professional and polished—and he even enjoys a little pampering. Recently, The New York Times printed an article about the increasing popularity of male bikini waxing, and a London paper noted the growing trend of guys getting their brows shaped. Some men in the entertainment world have been spotted sporting bright manicures, and there is even a full line of nail polish colors strictly for male nails. So it is no surprise that a recent study conducted by the International Spa Association shows that approximately one third of today’s spa-goers are male. If you are not marketing to men as well as women, you may be losing out on what could actually be some of your best customers! However, marketing to men is different than marketing to women. Women have been comfortable going to spas for more than 100 years. For men, this is still something of an unchartered territory, so you will need to look at what prompts guys to seek out grooming help. Men can have numerous motivations for turning to cosmetic treatments, including some gentle prodding from their significant others. But one of the biggest factors for many men is increasingly about maintaining a competitive edge in the workplace. The job market is so tough right now that both men and women want to do everything they can to put themselves in the best position possible to land—or even keep—a job. Studies have shown that personal presentation can play a role in this. According to research gathered by one website, attractive people have a 72 percent chance of being called back after a

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

job interview, compared with a 62 percent chance for people who are considered unattractive. The research also revealed that handsome NFL quarterbacks can earn around $300,000 more than their stats would predict (data from To keep his skin smooth and youthful looking, the alpha male may need the help of an alpha-hydroxy peel.


Manly beauty While men are becoming more open to spa treatments, most guys still have limits as to how far they will go in their quest for a handsome face and physique. They do not want treatments that sound too frou-frou or feminine. You don’t have to overhaul your entire spa menu to accommodate them, but you can rebrand some of your services using man-friendly terms and messaging. Here are some examples:

Facials Bar soap—and maybe some sunscreen, has been the basic male skin care regime for years. However, many men are now becoming interested in more refined cleansing procedures. Rejuvenating facial masks and hightech light-based procedures can reap great results—especially for men who suffer from acne or sun damage. To market these services to men, incorporate ingredients like beer, barley and egg whites. Guys are familiar with these ingredients, so they feel more comfortable asking for the treatment. You can also add terms like “sports relief” and “sun damage correction” to the descriptions of your facial services.

Nail grooming More men are showing up at nail stations across the country. There is increasing pressure on men to be polished and well-groomed, both in the

corporate and dating worlds. However, while some celebs are painting their nails with bright colored nail polish, the average guy may not want to ask for a deluxe mani-pedi in hot pink, so rename it “The Executive Special,” a service that makes the nails look neat and clean with a clear polish. You can also name services after the effects they provide, such as “The Hand and Foot Repair Treatment.”

Wrinkle reduction You have probably noticed that there are more retail skin products available for men, and many of those products aim to reduce wrinkles. Some guys may not want to slather face cream on every night, but they would be happy to let a trained technician zap away wrinkles with the latest laser technology. Some procedures, including a fractional laser service, can produce noticeably visible results after a series of treatments. continues • Page 93

business ments in a private space. This space is a must for a man-friendly spa. If your spa currently has an open layout, select a space on the floor and section it off from the rest of the room. This can be done easily and inexpensively by setting up a decorative screen, installing a curtain or using any other room divider. If your spa has several treatment rooms, create one room that is specifically for male clients and has a design motif that is noticeably more masculine but still luxurious.

A new frontier

Hair removal Hair removal has really become a unisex service—with more men and women opting for long-lasting sleek skin through waxing or laser hair removal. Two of the most popular types of male hair removal services are for beards and backs. Shaving a beard and/or back daily can result in razor burn, cuts and ingrown hairs. Plus, it takes a good amount of time and coordination (especially for the back). Waxing can give most men at least two weeks of shave-free bliss. Men can also opt for a series of laser hair removal treatments to reduce hair growth permanently. Because of its convenience and results, laser hair removal is one of the fastest-growing procedures in the industry, and male clients often request it. Getting trained to perform this and other laser procedures can really help grow your business when marketing to men. The industry standard for training is a 15-day comprehensive course, but cosmetic laser regulations vary by state, so it is a good idea to check with

Décor for dudes Once you have mastered male marketing, you will want to be certain that your spa has the accommodations that will make men feel comfortable and relaxed. Similar to revamping some treatment names, you may have to revamp your spa setup (or at least part of it). Men like to feel secure in their masculinity. Some guys do not feel comfortable if their only option is to receive spa treatments that are overly “girly.” The idea of giving your spa a makeover to make it friendly to both men and women can be overwhelming. But before you start stressing about expensive remodeling, let’s look at some simpler and more cost-effective ways to accomplish this goal. • A new coat of paint. If your treatment areas are filled with very feminine colors like pink, lavender and baby blue, consider changing the color scheme to one that features more gender-neutral earth tones or grey colors. This will help men feel comfortable, while still exuding a feeling of luxury and calmness that women will love as well. • The Man Cave. Unlike women, men rarely go to the spa in pairs to socialize during their services. In fact, many of them prefer receiving treat-

Louis Silberman is president of Na­ tional Laser Institute, a leading school specializing in cosmetic laser education. An expert in medi­ cal esthetics, Silberman de­ veloped the most highly re­ spected laser training programs in North America. For more information, visit or call 800.982.6817.

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photo: Igor Gratzer/


a national medical esthetics training institute concerning regulatory practices.

The male spa client base is one that has seen massive growth in the past few years, and I expect this growth to continue. The types of guys who want spa services are extremely diverse. It isn’t only Generation X and the Millennials who are getting in on the action. The American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) recently published an article about the increasing number of mature men who get regular pedicures. As an esthetic professional, working to bring in more male clients is a smart business move. Remember, men make up about 50 percent of the U.S. population, and the way the male spa treatment business is growing, they may soon make up 50 percent of spa clientele as well. So, prepare your business for success by creating an environment where both men and women can relax and rejuvenate. n

FRESH FACE Dave Waggoner has been named the director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, AZ. His experience in the field includes 15 years as a massage therapist and 12 years as a licensed esthetician, both in the role of an educator and a practitioner. Skin Script Skin Care is a product line designed and developed under the direction of physicians and estheticians to address clients’ top concerns while improving their skin’s appearance and repairing damaged skin.

The British Aestheticians Guide to Waxing the Twigs and Berries by spa veteran Claire Barnes offers a humorous take on the latest trends in waxing from the spa professional’s experience. The book is geared to readers who are licensed (or about to be licensed) in the aesthetics trade. The content is focused primarily on waxing the male nether regions and is meant to be both educational and fun. “Claire writes with a sensitive blend of humor and authority, approaching her subject matter with a chatty, down-to-earth style that everyone can understand,” says Andy Rouillard of Axomo Bodyworks, U.K. “It is a delight to read and a ‘must have’ reference for anyone in the industry.”

NEW TEAM MEMBER PREMIUM BEAUTY The Sea Wellness Spa at Hotel Casa del Mar now offers the HydraFacial™ resurfacing procedure, a redness-banishing facial treatment in which the esthetician uses a unique painless extraction method while exfoliating and introducing antioxidants into the skin. The 30-minute treatment leaves the client’s skin glowing and without a trace of redness, says the company.

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

SIRCUIT® Cosmeceuticals has hired Flo McRae as their new vice president of sales. “My goal has always been to represent the finest skin care company in the world with the purest, most advanced ingredients and unsurpassed customer service,” says McRae. “For me, Sircuit has become that company and I am honored to be part of the team.” MORE NEWS

CONSISTENT STANDOUT For the third year in a row, PCA SKIN® has been named one of the 100 best companies in Arizona by a local organization, BestCompaniesAZ. PCA was nominated in the “Best of Wings” category, a distinction that recognizes companies who thrive on innovation, empowerment and creativity.






When Hollywood’s hottest stars recently joined the cast of MTV’s Randy Jackson Presents America’s Best Dance Crew (ABDC) for the semifinals episode of the hit dance competition series, ATZEN was invited to be the exclusive skin care provider for the event. Among the celebrities present were Mario Lopez, Randy Jackson, Lil Mama, D-Trix and Layla Kayleigh. ATZEN gifted celebrities with products from their PURIFY collection.


LEARNING AND CONNECTING On June 24th, more than 700 beauty professionals gathered for a three-day event at the Doral Resort and Spa in Florida to be educated and energize their businesses at Millennium’s largest client conference in the company’s history, The Millennium Experience. The event focused on educating owners, managers, stylists and front desk personnel on vital business practices. Celebrity educators at the conference included Tabatha Coffey, Robert Cromeans and Ted Gibson; activities included lectures, networking and social events.

SPANISH MARKET Repêchage, leader in professional seaweed-based skin care, has recently launched a Spanish facebook page. The social media savvy company adds this new page to its existing English U.S. and U.K. facebook pages in response to the growing need to reach Spanish speaking beauty professionals and consumers. In addition, the Lydia Sarfati Post Graduate Skin Care Academy is now offering classes in Spanish.

EXTENSIVE BACKGROUND De La Terre Skincare® is proud to announce that Eric Martinez has recently joined their team as manager. With an MBA from the University of Notre Dame and more than 12 years of experience in the technology and marketing fields, Martinez has worked for IBM and participated in their premier internship program, Extreme Blue. He has also been a software engineer and managed his own marketing business.

TECHNOLOGY GROWTH SpaFinder Wellness, Inc. announced the appointment of Michelle Pae as their new chief product officer on June 18. Pae is responsible for developing new products, online technology and a website that will make it easy for people to learn about, find and reserve wellness, fitness and spa experiences worldwide. Pae is the cofounder of RealDirect and has served in executive positions at, Seevast and “I’m excited to join the talented management team at SpaFinder Wellness and help build new, technologydriven products for a company that has been a wellness industry leader for over 25 years,” says Pae. “I look forward to bringing our loyal and dedicated community of wellness enthusiasts all the tools they need to navigate their own path to health and well being.”

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for organic & wellness wellness male clients by Lisa Sykes

THE INDICATORS ARE THERE—BLOG postings, trade magazine citations and tweets to the world: Men are paying more attention to their appearance than ever before! Consequently, they’re watching their diets and booking spa treatments. Until fairly recently, personal care product companies largely ignored men’s skin care, limiting their offerings to shaving products and deodorants. At the same time, the food industry has promoted meat-laden processed foods, dubbing them as convenient, masculine choices for manly appetites. The fallout? Men are washing their faces with body soap and eating tragically unhealthy meals, subjecting their bodies to dubious chemicals in the process. Wellness has no gender. Men are not impervious to the health issues that stem from suspect personal care ingredients and poor dietary habits. How do female estheticians communicate the importance of wellness to men? On behalf of female estheticians, I asked an expert on this issue—a man, for guidance. His advice was this: “Men like to know the functionality of things. Break it down into mechanics.” Let’s start with the problem of men using body soap to wash their faces. This behavior is not their fault. As mentioned earlier, their options have been limited, and old habits die hard. This is where estheticians can help. When you broach this topic with them, be technical in your explanation about what causes the skin conditions they’re experiencing. Your next step is to review the solution: a daily routine using a natural/ organic skin care line. Make it clear that unlike their petrochemical heavy counterparts, natural/organic lines aren’t teeming with dubious ingredients such August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

as harsh surfactants (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), skin-suffocating occlusives (e.g., dimethicone and other silicone derivatives) and potentially hazardous preservatives (e.g., DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea). Then, follow up by reviewing your skin care line’s nutritive ingredients and benefits. Most wellness gurus suggest that it’s a whole foods diet high in veggies, fiber and lean proteins. I’m going to go a step further and say a good diet is a low carb, plant-centered diet, as this eating style leads to a better complexion and healthy weight reduction. To many, veggies are just a side dish, an incidental food that takes up a sliver of space on the plate to accompany the main dish. And most often, vegetable side dishes are starchy or saturated in butter, sauces or dressings. Many clients aren’t getting all the vitamins and minerals they need, and an internal lack of nutrients generally surfaces externally. Colorful fruits and vegetables are potent sources of antioxidants and carotenoids. Antioxidants regulate oil production, prevent cell damage and produce collagen. Carotenoids provide color to the skin. So it makes sense that a diet low in these properties could promote acne and a lackluster complexion. It should also be noted that a diet high in meat and dairy, which contains high levels of hormones, could interfere with the levels of these nutrients already in the body. This disruption can lead to an increase in acne. Studies have suggested that dairy stimulates insulin production, which triggers excess oil production, leaving skin susceptible to bacteria buildup in the pores and hyperkeratinization. Therefore, increasing colorful vegetables and decreasing saturated

fats and carbohydrates is great for the skin, waistline and overall energy level. The idea here is not to become your clients’ dietician, but rather to let them know that their diet does affect their appearance. And for those male clients who might be concerned that vegetables and other healthy fare is too feminine, remind them that there is nothing “girly” about lowering their cholesterol and increasing their strength and stamina. Just ask mixed martial arts champion Mac Danzig, NFL tight end Tony Gonzalez, NBA basketball player Salim Stoudamire, hip-hop mogul Russell Simmons and trucker Dave Conrardy, all of whom follow a plant-based diet. Some clients may also be interested in optimizing their health through your spa’s detox treatments, which may come in the form of body wraps, lymphatic drainage and hydrotherapy. Goals to look good and feel good should not be relegated to the status of New Year’s resolutions. The spa is the perfect place to have conversations about self care, and male clients who come to you for assistance with problematic skin conditions and wellness advice need encouragement. Great results yield satisfied clients, which can generate repeat business and referrals. Adhering to a holistic approach for skin care may be the key to separating yourself from competitors. n

Lisa Sykes is a sustainability specialist at Universal Companies. She specializes in ingredients and cosmetic chemistry, working closely with product development and with vendor partners. She is co-chair of the Green Spa Network’s personal care product committee, and serves on the advisory council. • Page 97


photo: Jose Paulo/


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organic & wellness

HEALTH AND VITALITY FOR MEN WHEN DISCUSSING DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS FOR MEN, the most popular two categories involve impotence and muscle building—neither of which is appropriate for the spa environment. So how can we encourage men to take supplements? How can these supplements enhance the male spa experience? Men and women are not only members of different species, but different biological kingdoms (one is an animal, the other is a mystery)—and it is often said that we come from different planets and universes. Nevertheless, we have many of the same health issues that reflect a few biological similarities, not the least important one being that we both grow old. Young men, in the prime of their virility, are not among the primary spa enthusiasts. More likely, the devoted spa-goers among males are in the 40-plus age group. These guys are beginning to develop wrinkles, cannot reach their toes without cheating and suffer from occupational stress. Since men are generally oblivious to their body’s needs, they can easily miss the opportunity to start an anti-aging program before the signs of premature aging become obvious. The spa, however, can offer an environment where it is totally acceptable for a man to emotionally accept his imperfections and physically do something about them without feeling like a sissy. What we call “beauty from within” is essentially identical to “handsome from within,” and follows the same biological, physical and emotional principles: • Fight oxidative damage in the body. • Limit inflammation to healthy levels. • Support detoxification from the organs down to the cellular levels. • Improve microcirculation to nourish cells and remove waste. • Promote the regeneration of protein matrix for all tissues, but particularly the skin (for appearances). • Limit stress and anxiety. • Increase energy. There are other health concerns for our male spa-goer. Men tend to damage themselves more often than women, and the wounds they incur need healing. Well developed beer bellies and enlarged prostates are two more of these concerns; thinning hair is another. There are many ways of improving these factors through lifestyle changes, such as nutrition and exercise. Dietary supplements have been shown to play important roles in the handsome-from-within programs. Spas can offer these supplements in various forms. I have never been a fan of pill use in the spa. Liquid supplements have many advantages over their solid dose cousins: August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa


• They are more quickly absorbed into the blood, starting with the blood vessels in the mouth. • They are more evenly distributed in the stomach, which improves absorption. • They can be taken by people who do not like to swallow pills (although no “real man” would admit this weakness). • They can be better incorporated into the spa experience. Drinking a cup of hot or cold herbal tea, for example, can be a relaxing and therapeutic act in itself, regardless of what is in the cup. Tablets and capsules are available at the spa when all else fails. This is the case when the active ingredients are either not stable in water, cannot be incorporated in a water based beverage or simply taste horrible. It has certainly been my experience that women have a greater tolerance for bitter and unpleasant tasting products when they understand the product’s eventual health benefits. Men make more of a fuss.

Dietary supplement products for the spa Of course, everyone should drink at least one cup of green tea daily (unless advised otherwise by a physician) for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Green tea also promotes detoxification in the liver and kidneys. The polyphenols in green tea help stimulate the microcirculation of blood by inducing the release of nitric oxide, which elasticizes the capillary walls, easing the flow of blood. The production of skin proteins collagen and elastin are promoted by green tea polyphenols. The L-theanine in green tea reduces stress and anxiety. Finally, green tea promotes fat burning and the production of energy. This one product covers all the principles of getting handsome from within! It is possible to target some of these male concerns with dietary supplements. There are, for example, a great many energy products available on the market. Only a few of these, however, are appropriate for a health and wellness spa. Caffeinefree botanical extracts make the best supplement products continues • Page 99

organic & wellness|handsome from within

for the spa. Bitter orange, the peel of one of the Asian citrus fruits, contains synephrine, a safe and natural energy booster. Maca, yerbe mate, gotu kola, ginseng and cayenne pepper are other examples of energizing herbs. These can be augmented with amino acids, vitamins and non-metabolizing sugars, such as D-ribose, for added benefits. They are all available in all-natural, calorie-free formats. Adaptogenic herbs and herbal blends help the body regain harmony and balance (concepts rarely recognized by men). These include Rhodiola and ural licorice (deglycyrrhized) and Holy Basil. Thinning hair can be addressed with mineral blends, vitamins and keratin extracts. I prefer a natural blend of minerals derived from seawater, the origin of life on Earth. In fact, the minerals of seawater are very similar to those in

Offer powerful antioxidants to men before and after they use fitness facilities. our blood, making it a biologically interesting addition to supplement products. There are many herbs to help combat stress. These include chamomile, passionflower (change the name before you offer it to a man), lemon balm and L-theanine from green tea. Lifestyle alterations and healthy activities such as yoga have proven to be particularly effective.

How to offer dietary supplements in the spa

Jonathan Selzer, Ph.D., is the technical director at Dr. Hahn Consulting, LLC. He worked in Germany and France for many years, developing and manufacturing all natural products. In 2001, Dr. Selzer returned to the U.S. to devote himself to the development of dietary supplements, and now speaks at conferences on the topic of “beauty from within”. He lives with his family in Connecticut. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #253 on reader service card

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photo: Dash/

The spa can incorporate appropriate dietary supplement beverages into their treatment journeys. For example, a detoxification tea with medicinal mushrooms can be taken before or after an acne facial. Detoxification is particularly important after a deep massage, and an appropriate tea can be offered in the relaxation room. Guests who come in for a cellulite wrap can be offered a fat burning beverage beforehand, such as green tea, bitter orange, L-carnitine or ginger. The active man typically works out at the gym. It is important to understand that any form of exercise or stress increases the body’s own generation of free radicals and oxidation of cells. It is therefore of utmost importance to offer powerful antioxidants to men before and after they use fitness facilities. From the reception area to the relaxation room, the possibilities are endless, and the spa director is limited only by his or her imagination. The spa guest, whose treatment has been augmented with dietary supplements, will enjoy a higher perceived value and feel more confident in the professional care they have received. This is true for male and female clients alike. n

by Camille Hoheb

organic & wellness|

centre for well-being

photos courtesy of The Phoenician

The Phoenician, Scottsdale, AZ SITUATED IN THE STARK NATURAL beauty of the Sonoran desert in Scotts­ dale, AZ, the world-class Phoenician Resort embodies what a wellness vacation is all about. The expansive property encompasses 250 acres of dramatic landscapes with boundless opportunities to relax, reconnect and revitalize. Wellness vacations are growing in popularity, and many travel agencies, resorts and spas offer packages specifically created to help you achieve well-being. Most would agree that travel has an overall nurturing effect, and wellness vacations can deliver peace of mind, true relaxation and a sense of rejuvenation physically, mentally and spiritually. Given the increasing demands and daily stresses of today’s world, it is no surprise that “wellness travel packages” are becoming attractive to both destinations and consumers alike because they are good for both health and business. The Phoenician makes it very simple to take advantage of this emerging trend and its multi-dimensional approach to well-being. Guests are welcome to create their own personalized wellness experience based on their preferences, needs and interests. From its impressive Centre for WellBeing, its gorgeous array of Oasis pools and championship golf to its $25 million art collection, high teas and garden tours, there are boundless activities to revel in and share with others or enjoy alone. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Fully leveraging its unique desert landscape, the Phoenician places a spotlight on its natural assets and local culture. Throughout the property are dramatic life-size bronze sculptures of American Indians that give guests the opportunity to connect with the history of the Southwest. Along the base of Camelback Mountain, guests can take a hike through the two acre indigenous garden, which showcases over 250 succulents and cacti. Fortunate to have a private tour with Denise Seomin, the Phoenician’s public relations director, we arrived at the Centre for Well-Being by golf cart. With the wind blowing in my hair and the anticipation of discovery ahead, it was the perfect way to see the surroundings, and view some of the spectacular American Indian sculptures without having to fully experience the June weather. Interesting to note, the desert landscapes, with their scorching sun and radiating heat, have drawn seekers of solitude and enlightenment throughout the ages. Recognized as one of the leading resort spas in the United States, the trendsetting, bi-level 22,000 foot Centre for Well-Being complex was designed to create an optimal environment for physical, emotional and spiritual renewal. There are two views to take in upon arrival at The Centre for Well-Being. The first, of course, is the complex entrance, with Camelback Mountain and the main building in the backdrop, creating a unique

two-level design. At eye level, the clearly marked signage is visible, and there is a broad staircase leading you downstairs to the main entrance. For me, this signified the separating point between my work (I was presenting at a conference) to my sanctuary. The Phoenician and its Centre for Well-Being were inspired by an ancient story of renewal and rebirth. The Phoenician takes its names from the mythical bird called the Phoenix, which lived in the desert, was consumed by fire and later rose again from its ashes. With The Centre’s brochure in hand, some of the verbiage caught my eye: “Our spa rituals lead to inner calm, selfrevelation and harmony with one’s own natural rhythms. Like the mythical phoenix, one’s body is a powerful change master—but it is the spirit that transforms.” This especially resonates now, as the spa industry is shifting from pampering to wellness, and is abuzz with incorporating emotional wellness through practices continues • Page 101

organic & wellness|centre for well-being

such as meditation, breath work, yoga and other forms of complimentary and alternative medicine. Opened in 1998, The Centre for Well-Being has been ahead of its time with its focus on mind wellness. Meditation Atrium offers all hotel guests the opportunity for group meditation each day at noon. Other services to quiet the mind include hypnotherapy, guided imagery and non-evidence-based services such as tarot card reading and astrology. For active guests, there are a plethora of fitness options such as Power Yoga, Fitness Boot Camp, Ballet Bar Pilates and a state-of-the-art weight room with cardio equipment featuring a video program that “transports guests to locations throughout the world.” What a great way to get in a workout while beating the desert heat! The Centre offers a wide range of body and beauty treatments, some of which harken back to centuries-old techniques while new therapies are offered as well. Jojoba, aloe vera and chamomile are typical indigenous desert plants that have been used for hundreds of years in the Southwest, but The Centre also features popular treatments from around the globe, such as Thai Foot Massage and Thermal Moor Mud Wraps. For two hours, I was in the hands of highly trained therapists who found every kink, knot and source of muscle discomfort during a signature treatment called the Desert Serenity Scrub. This is the perfect treatment for those seeking the dual benefit of detoxification and hydration. Crushed jojoba

Phoenician pool

lemongrass spa treatment

seeds are massaged into skin, providing exfoliation that is both relaxing and invigorating. After rinsing, an imported white clay from Utah was applied, and I was wrapped in a warm cocoon for 20 minutes. Wafting into a light sleep, comfortable and thankful that the clay was light with a pleasant aroma, it was time for another rinse, followed by a 40-minute massage. Feeling completely clean and refreshed with beautiful glowing skin, I decided to linger awhile in the Meditation Atrium, a peaceful space with soft filtered sunlight and comfy reclining leather chaise lounges. For guests whose way to wellness is through golf, the Phoenician has 27 holes grouped into three nines, offering several 18 hole combinations. Their Golf Academy begins with a computer analysis of personalized instruction utilizing a DVD recording of their golf swing. These guests are given a personalized game plan to take home. The Centre offers golf and sports guided imagery to assist in improving focus and decreasing stress. The Centre also offers a Men’s Prerogative Package that includes a 50-minute massage, 25-minute scalp treatment and 50-minute gentlemen’s facial. Guests who are inspired by art and culture can enjoy a high tea, and then pick up a headphone and an audio device (free of charge at the concierge desk) for the self-guided art tour. A friend and I delighted in the expansive private collection, and we both agreed that art is a part of wellness and rounded out our unique well-being experience at the Phoenician. n Camille Hoheb is principal of Global Spa and Wellness. In the position, she focuses on emerging global shifts and the convergence of health care, hospitality and spas. She has performed strategic planning, operations and healthcare marketing for two decades. Hoheb is a widely published expert and international speaker on the topics of wellness and corporate health.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242


Extend Healthy Options to your Guests IN A WORLD OF SUPER SIZE PORTIONS AND SEDENTARY LIFESTYLES, it is no surprise that men’s health is at risk. The American man needs education on their diet and exercise habits, and the spa and wellness industry can assist them in making drastic improvements to their lives. Guests who are struggling with extra weight can enjoy delicious and satisfying low calorie meals at the spa while learning from your experts about home regimens and low impact routines that will help them to move more, eat less and choose healthier options to facilitate weight loss. The latest figures from the Center for Disease Control (CDC) demonstrate that obesity continues to be a significant public health problem. This provides you with a great opportunity to assist your community by teaching them that making healthier choices entails visiting their local spa. Symptoms of excess weight gain are an increase of 10 pounds of body weight each month, ultimately reaching an uncontrollable level. The body then becomes disproportionely large, and fat accumulates on the chest and in the waist. This in turn causes difficulty with breathing, increases the risk of cardiovascular diseases, Type 2 diabetes, and cancers of the colon, gall bladder, prostate and kidneys. The consequences of weight gain are serious, and the best path to a leaner, healthier body is having an active health and wellness program for both men and women. All spas can offer simple health, weight and wellness services. Today’s cutting-edge spas and wellness retreats offer much more than the “fat camps” of the 1970s. The abundance of popular TV shows highlighting the growing issue of obesity has helped make people more aware of the importance of getting unhealthy weight gain under control. Quick weight loss regimens and the harsh “boot camp” environments that are featured on TV are unrealistic for most people, but you can offer sustainable solutions for your guests. As your clients set goals, encourage them and follow up. Statistics show that patients who partner with a health coach are more successful at staying on a health track than those who try to go it alone. Spa services can include nutritional counseling, healthy cooking and portion control classes, fitness services, health coaching, detoxification and cellulite services. Establish partnerships between your spa and leading health experts, such as physicians and dieticians, to offer checkups and blood pressure testing. Even clients who are not obese but want to lose some weight can be encouraged to choose options that help them live in balance and be healthier and happier. One place that embodies how a spa can effectively help clients begin to live healthier lives is Hilton Head Health on Hilton Head Island, SC. This weight loss retreat focuses on long-term sustainable success to maintain a healthy lifestyle. continues

BY GENA FLORES Page 104 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

photo: Kurhan/


August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 105

organic & wellness|weighing in on men’s health They offer H3@Home Wellness Coaching services, which allow individuals to participate one-on-one with a certified wellness coach following the guest’s stay. The participants who join the coaching program often report that their sleep improves, they have more energy, less stress, and that they are able to maintain the healthy eating and exercise habits they learned at the spa. Hilton Head Health combines spa services with: • Personalized weekly phone coaching • Individualized websites • Text message challenges • Monthly group webinars • Online journaling groups • Culinary consultations • Counseling sessions • Unlimited email support • H3@Home facebook group As a spa owner, you can create a community co-op of success by offering monthly classes at your spa. You don’t even need to hire additional staff to cover areas of expertise you are lacking in. Simply partner with other like-minded businesses and professionals in your neighborhood, such as your local health food store, catering companies or restaurants offering nutritious cuisine, yoga instructors, personal trainers, naturopaths or chiropractors. Your day of health should be affordable or complimentary for attendees, and the guest should receive a discount or spa points for each business involved.

Hilton Head Health cooking class

For example, if they attend a personal training session, they receive a free sauna session with their massage. This can be a very fun and dynamic way to expand your business and familiarize yourself with the community! Men in particular are a great fit for monthly classes at your spa, as once they have consulted the experts and feel comfortable with a set plan to reach their goals, they are more likely to feel confident in their ability to stay focused on the end goal. However, men can be hesitant to come into a spa alone for the first time, so planning a monthly class that they can bring their partner to gives them the opportunity to look at the situation objectively and without pressure. Once you have gained their trust, men tend to be loyal, long standing clients. If you are a solo technician or do not wish to create a community co-op at this time, you can still partner with local businesses by offering cross marketing. An easy way to do this would be to offer clients a free three-month gym membership for every package of 12 massages they purchase upfront. Be sure to emphasize that massage therapy is a perfect complement to an exercise regimen, as it helps remove the buildup of lactic acid, lowers stress, reduces risk of injury by stretching connective tissue, aids in digestion, boosts metabolism and improves circulation. When you can reduce a client’s level of post-workout soreness, they are more likely to adhere to their exercise program, making your services a key component to their fitness success. In exchange, you can offer the gym’s “member of the month” a free massage, which in turn would be advertised at the gym as a monthly promotion, introducing your spa to a market that may never have heard about your facility otherwise. You do not have to “go big” to make a big difference in your community. While you are encouraging your clients on their journey to a healthy lifestyle, you may just find that you have saved your own life as well—figuratively and literally. n

Gena Flores is a licensed esthetician, instructor and contributing author to Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa magazine. She is passionate about mentoring other spa professionals, and volunteers her time as the director of the National Aesthetic Spa Network for the Midwest. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

Page 106 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

Morocconoil® Intense Hydrating Treatment is a concoction of premiuim organic ingredients formulated to rescue extremely dry skin. The blend of argan oil, chamomile water, sunflower seed oil and glycerin create a soothing formula that penetrates deep into the skin for ultimate healing and relief. Irritations and inflammations are calmed, leaving skin noticeably healthier, says the company.

HEALTHY HYDRATION Hyaluron from the Elements of Nature line by Dr. Grandel is a lightweight moisturizing lotion for day and night use. Hyaluronic acid and amino acids replenish and sustain skin’s moisture levels and plump up fine dry lines from the inside out, giving skin a smooth and firm appearance that lasts for hours, says the company.

PURE AND GENTLE Purge skin of all impurities with the Rose Crown® Herbal Facial Cleanser. The key ingredient is an amino acid extracted from natural oat. It gently removes residue, makeup and oil, leaving skin exceptionally soft and smooth, says the company.

COMPLETE NUTRITION The Advanced Antioxidants Daily Supplement from Menscience helps protect against and repair the effects of aging on the body. The scientifically developed natural formula contains over 20 of the most advanced and effective antioxidants in an ideal combination for meeting men’s needs, says the company.

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa




ORGANIC & WELLNESSNEWS SIMPLE SOLUTION Men can combat acne, skin rashes and blemishes with Organic Aromatherapy Cosmeceutical’s AROMATICA Trouble Shooter Aromatherapy Roll-on. Made with chamomile and oils of tea tree and bergamot, it soothes and cleanses skin, says the company. The enticingly scented formula is applied over temples and pulse points and gently massaged into skin.


GOOD GROOMING Solo Noir is a complete grooming line for ethnic men, featuring 100 percent organic two-inone grooming products. The line consists of seven uniquely formulated products to help address ingrown hairs and imperfections, restore elasticity and promote smooth, healthy skin.

The Hydrant Stabilizer by Control Corrective is a superhydrating, botanical-based oil free gel that acts as a soothing after-shave, reducing razor bumps, beard irritation and dryness associated with razor burn. The lightweight formula also helps reduce the dry, ashy, flaky skin that some men experience after shaving or when exposed to the elements.


BOTANICAL BOOST The All-in-one Body Oil by Human+Kind is a supercharged, multi-tasking body oil, specially formulated to hydrate, tone and rejuvenate dry or lackluster skin on the body. Crammed with intensely nourishing, lightweight essential oils, minerals and vitamins, it is ideal for targeting uneven skin, scars and surface dehydration.

The emollient-rich Men’s Shave cream by Gram Skincare provides the perfect combination of ingredients to deliver a close, comfortable shave. Wheat germ, grape seed oil, aloe and salicylic acid blend harmoniously to prevent irritation and promote healthy, conditioned skin. Essential oils soften the beard in preparation for shaving, so no pre-shave prep is required. It contains anti-inflammation properties to help soothe the skin and prevent premature aging.

Page 108 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


behind the scenes

photo: courtesy of Noreen Young

by Noreen Young

WHILE PHOTO SHOOTS ARE CERtainly fun, they do involve a lot of work. You never know when opportunity will come knocking. I remember when I received a phone call from an ad agency for Sports Illustrated. Unfortunately, I soon discovered that the date of the shoot was the same date I was scheduled to be a guest speaker in San Francisco. Although I was very disappointed, I had to honor my prior commitment and decline the opportunity. Confirm availability. Do not promise what you cannot deliver ... otherwise you will set yourself up for a very short career! There are several types of photo shoots: beauty box covers, magazine ads and catalogs, as well as editorial work. You need to be prepared for any type of opportunity that comes your way. Keep in mind that you are a brand— and so is the brand you are selling and working for. For example, magazines often do not have the budget for a hair stylist and a makeup artist, so you have to pitch in and be willing to do both. The model I worked with on this photo feature is Kelli English, who is very easy to work on, photographs well and makes my work look good too! I feel comfortable with her. At times, the model for a photo shoot acts like a diva and wants to be pampered. Whether the model you are assigned is on her best behavior or not, you must be professional and have patience. When you arrive, ask the model where you will be working from at the photographer’s studio. It may be inside or outside, in a corner, on a big box or in a spacious makeup and styling area with a lighted makeup mirror and more. You have to do your best work—wherever it is. Do not complain—not to the model, the photographer or to those who hired you. Be August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

easy to work with. You are making an impression, and you want to be hired again. Photo shoots are time consuming, and it is a “hurry up and wait” kind of day. Sometimes it takes eight to twelve hours to capture the right photo or look. Other days it could take just a couple of hours. It all depends what the client wants, and what is the vision is on the vision board you are shown. Be prepared for the unexpected with these essentials: • Nail polish remover pads • Sewing kit • Clothespins • Safety pins • Hand fan • Breath mints and gum • Herbal calming tea or regular tea bags • Bottled water • Pepto-Bismol or Alka-Seltzer tablets • Band Aides • Protein bars • Peek-A-Boob strips for unexpected emergencies • Shadow Shields for keeping the area around the eye clean after applying shadow • Cover-up for scars, unexpected injuries and more • Sunblock or sunscreen • Face and body illuminator, Vaseline or baby oil • Hairspray • Makeup remover pads You really do need to have products available beyond lipstick, blusher and face cream! Step 1. Clean the face with a sonic cleansing brush and mud mask treatment. Your model may have shown

up with a full face of makeup for you to remove. Step 2. Apply moisturizer with SPF, then apply foundation in downward strokes with a sponge. Step 3. Add salmon colored concealer around the eyes where needed. Step 4. Apply a mineral powder with a brush (I love using a brush to apply product, as it feels like a feather and creates a soft powdered look). Step 5. Invisible lip liner is gently applied around the mouth. Step 6. Put lipstick base all over the lips in a sheer coat. Step 7. Apply a tiny dot of cheek stain to the lips. Step 8. Apply and blend a tiny dot of cheek stain on both cheeks, using the same color for lips and cheeks. Step 9. Apply candy colored pink eye shadow all over the lid. Use a black liner on the rim of the eye, top and bottom. Step 10. Add one coat of lash lift over lashes. Step 11. Add black mascara to lashes. Step 12. Apply clear brow gel to brows to groom into place. n Model: Kelli English Makeup: Skin care and styling by Noreen Young Photographer: Chris Dent Noreen Young is a makeup artist and a sought after speaker in the salon/spa beauty industry. She has worked with many sports professionals and other celebrities. Her experience includes work on Larry King Live and several television networks. Young released a makeup and skin care DVD entitled Diamonds Aren’t a Girl’s Best Friend … Makeup Is! For more information call 904.739.2560. • Page 109

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #169 on reader service card




S A PROFESSIONAL makeup artist, I am often called upon to groom high profile men, from rock stars and sports heroes to politicians. Rich, my model for this piece, is an actor. His facial features somewhat resemble those of football star Tim Tebow. Using my technique, along with select tools and products, enhancing the face happens in an undetectable and natural progression. For this session I created a bronzed look by gradually altering the skin tone, then changing the application to a clean and natural business look. 4






image|au’ natural for men


STEP 1: Prepping the skin. Prior to the application of concealer and base, I applied a pre-base, a protective crème to prepare my working canvas. STEP 2: I then custom mixed a neutralizing concealer for the areas that required correction.



STEP 3: A hydrating water base foundation was blended and applied to the entire face, neck and ears. Using Rich’s natural undertone as a guideline, I gradually darkened his skin tone. For the body, I selected a coordinating skin tone and powdered bronze base. STEP 4: After carefully blending the base, a crème cheek stain in a deep berry wash was blended to create a healthy skin tone; skin was set with a transparent powder where additional shine was not desired. STEP 5: A powdered bronzer was applied to enhance natural features where the sun would naturally tan the face.





STEP 6: For the beach bronzed effect, the under eye area was highlighted using a color that mimicked the glistening of Rich’s natural orange-brown eyes. continues


Page 112 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


image|au’ natural for men

STEP 7: Hidden mascara. When applying mascara to a male, I prefer to leave the tips of the lashes natural. Using a lash guard, I applied a deep brown matte mascara to the root of the lashes closest to the lid. STEP 8: Lashes were separated using a quality lash comb to remove any clumping and/or excess product. You must observe extreme caution while practicing this application method to ensure that the tips of the lashes are left natural.







STEP 9: Brows are set into place using a setting spray, applied to a brow brush and then brushed to shape. STEP 10: An application of brow oil was brushed through the hair using a fine fan brush. STEP 11: Lips are center brushed with a balm, then blended to moisten. STEP 12: The body was custom matched to the skin tone, then contour was applied to the body where definition was desired. This further enhanced the lines of the chest. Rich’s body and face were spritzed with a moistening mist to create a wet effect. STEP 13: For the natural application, the face was shaved, then prepped following the above steps (eliminating Steps 3, 5, 6 and 9), altering the skin tone to mimic his natural coloring. n Pamela Taylor is a recognized authority in editorial print and fashion makeup. Known for her Hydration Technique, she is an internationally published author, educator and speaker who is often referred to for current makeup trends and techniques. Based in New York City, Taylor boasts an extensive celebrity clientele. She is owner and director of the Pamela Taylor Makeup Academy in New York. For more information, visit or call 212.620.5792.


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Add hands to the analysis and determine the potential for treatments on them.

AS THERAPISTS, WE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING for new ways to expand our menus and care for our clients. We go to shows and spend money buying new products and equipment that we believe (but do not know for sure) will bring in new clients to further grow our businesses. But what about a new service that involves what is already in our spas? Using equipment and products that are already in our rooms? Have you offered hand care? Many clients appreciate these treatments, especially if they are seeing improvements through your facial care.

Analysis When estheticians conduct an analysis of the face, many of them do not do one on the hands as well. Assess the hands and determine their potential for receiving treatments. Just as with the face, you must know what to look for in order to safely treat the hands. Some conditions will prevent the performance of even the most simple services. Others will only require minor adjustments of the service.

Conditions that are contraindicated with services Spa services are perfectly safe for certain conditions on the hand, but some conditions can worsen if treatments are done on them. This is because the service can be painful or the skin can become lesional (open sores). Below are some of the more common conditions. Eczema (chronic or acute): Often called dermatitis, eczema is a common skin problem. There are several types of eczema, all characterized by irritated skin. Services on the skin are not suitable for any of them. The condition most relevant to estheticians is atopic dermatitis and allergic dermatitis. Atopic dermatitis is an allergic reaction to foods, dust mites and other allergy triggers; contact dermatitis (allergic or irritant) is usually the result of damage to the skin from contact with allergy-triggering substances or a strong irritant, either one time or repeatedly. Hands are especially vulnerable to developing contact dermatitis. Bacterial infections, including staphylococci and streptococci (acute): These infections are not restricted to the hands. Initial symptoms are redness, warmth of the skin at the potential lesion location, then swelling and pain. Immediately afterward, the lesion develops. If not treated, these lesions are capable

of spreading throughout the body, and they can be deadly. Methicillin Resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA): An emerged staph infection that can be fatal, MRSA is a mutated form of Staphylococcus aureus bacteria, called “staph” by most. Originally, staph in hospitals became resistant to the broad-spectrum antibiotics commonly used to treat it. It can be fatal due to its speed in becoming a serious systemic infection and the difficulty in treating it. MRSA jumped preventive barriers, and is now out of the hospitals and in our schools, gyms, spas—almost everywhere, and is known as community-associated MRSA, or CA-MRSA. After the initial symptoms mentioned above, it may appear as small red bumps that resemble pimples, boils or spider bites, but soon it becomes a deep, painful abscess that requires immediate medical care due to its potential to cause systemic infection. MRSA does not respond to first aid. Advanced MRSA infections can occur in bones, joints, surgical wounds, the bloodstream, heart valves and lungs—and often they are fatal. An advanced MRSA infection will at least debilitate the sufferer, restricting him or her to home and bed, unable to work. MRSA is easily transferred, meaning it is highly contagious. So estheticians are at high risk for potential infection and for transferring it to others. Estheticians must avoid contact with suspected lesions or inflamed skin, no matter how minor. The ease of transfer, even 24 hours before symptoms are obvious, is one reason to wear gloves when working with clients. Awareness of the symptoms is important. Cancer of the skin (acute): The three types of skin cancer are basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma. Due to the constant view by clients of their hands, few lesions get past the initial stages, but estheticians must be trained in the ABCDE symptoms of cancer in order to see it during analysis. It is appropriate to suggest that a client have a spot looked at by a dermatologist. Cancer of the nails (acute): A client with dark lines toward the free edge beneath the nail should be referred to a physician as soon as possible. They are sometimes caused by melanoma, the most dangerous type of skin cancer. If a client’s nails have any potential for continues

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photo: Stockbyte/Getty Images


August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 117

being cancerous, they should be immediately referred to a physician. Do not treat this nail. Reynaud’s disease (chronic): This condition is caused by the narrowing of the smaller arteries that supply blood to the skin, limiting circulation to the area. The fingers, toes, tip of the nose and ears may be numb and feel cold in low temperatures or when the client is under stress. Women are more likely to have it than men, and it occurs more often in cold climates than warm ones. Services on these clients must be very gentle, with a focus on how the client is responding to each touch. Lupus: This is an autoimmune disease in which the body’s immune system becomes hyperactive and attacks normal, healthy tissue. Symptoms include inflammation and swelling, along with damage and pain to joints, skin, kidneys, blood, heart and lungs. There is no cure

Before moisturizing, perform a gentle scrub to allow products to penetrate. If it is so severe that there are lesions, no treatment can be performed.

for lupus and the cause is unknown. The goal is to keep it in remission. There are several types of lupus, and they can involve every organ of the body. The one involving the skin is discoid lupus, and it is limited to the skin. Discoid lupus is often manifested on the hands, because the individual is extremely sensitive to the sun. For that reason, do not use lights on them. Lupus occurs on women nine times as often as it does on men. Treatments performed on these patients are selected according to their condition at the time they come into the spa. If it appears lesional or in the form of a rash, do not perform the service. Osteoarthritis (chronic): Stiffness, swelling and pain are typical symptoms associated with finger osteoarthritis. A very common early sign of osteoarthritis is a knobby, bony deformity at the joint nearest the fingertips. Cartilage serves as a “cushion” between the bones of the joints. When the cartilage degenerates, the bone next to it becomes inflamed and can produce bony “spurs.” Working with these clients requires the utmost tenderness. Studies show that many clients with this disease gain wonderful relief from paraffin treatments. Psoriasis (chronic): Plaque psoriasis causes mild (small areas of rash) to severe (thick, white, silvery or red patches and inflammation) scaly patches that may be itchy and tender to appear on the skin. These skin cells grow too quickly; the cause is unknown. Normal new skin cells grow to replace the outer layers of the skin as they shed. But in psoriasis, new skin cells move rapidly to the surface of the skin in days rather than weeks, build up and form thick patches called plaques. At this time, there is no cure for it. While plaque psoriasis may look like just a skin condition, it is in fact a disease of an overactive immune system. It is not contagious and cannot be spread by contact with persons who suffer from the disease. Symptoms often disappear (remission), even without treatment, and then may flare up at a later time. Due to the potential for irritation, clients cannot receive services on their hands when psoriasis is active. Another form of psoriasis, psoriatic arthritis, causes some people to have swollen, tender and painful joints. This condition can also cause the nails to pit, change color and separate from the nail bed. Dead skin may build up under the nails. Due to potential for these patients

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image|hand health

top to bottom: Stockbyte/Getty Images; Maksym Bondarchuk/

to experience pain from massage on the joints of the hands during touch, these clients must be treated gently, and possibly not receive a massage. Ask the client for direction. Warts (chronic): Warts are caused by the human papilloma virus and are thought to enter the skin through trauma; all of us are exposed to them at some point in our lives. Some states allow services on them with the use of gloves; others mandate that you cannot treat an area with warts because they are very infectious and may be spread. Dome-shaped warts are common on the backs of fingers, toes and knees. Periungual warts cluster around or even under the fingernail or toenail. They appear as thickened, fissured cauliflower-like skin around the nail plate and can produce considerable pain as they enlarge. Blister (acute): Estheticians must avoid treatment of a blister and the area surrounding them to prevent the pain; any contact will cause the client further damage, potentially causing serious infections. Usually, blisters force the injured person to remove the object causing the pressure, allowing the area to proceed through the stages of healing to become healthy skin again. If the client mentions a blister has not begun to heal in a week, he or she should be referred to a physician for treatment. If a blister develops signs of infection, such as increasing redness, red streaks in nearby skin, oozing blood, pus, increased pain or swelling of the surrounding skin, a doctor should be consulted. Another reason an esthetician should avoid the blistered area is that the fluid (serum) collected in the area is considered a body fluid and may expose him or her to diseases potentially present in that fluid. The reality is that a blister is a lesion and treatments should not be performed on blistered hands. A blood blister is filled with blood rather than a clear fluid, but it is still a body fluid.

Conditions that are not contraindicated with services Very dry hands: A client’s skin can be chronically dry for many reasons, including occupational exposure, certain illnesses, cold weather, medications, allergies and much more. This skin will be rough, possibly scaly, and it will need deep moisturizing. But before moisturizing, perform a gentle scrub to allow products to penetrate. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

If it is so severe that there are lesions, no treatment can be performed. Aged hands: Estheticians are aware that the hands show age dramatically, sometimes even before the face, and demonstrate dehydration and hyperpigmentation. The anti-aging services for the face can also be performed on hands in attempts to improve appearance. When advising clients to put SPF on their face, they must also be told to put it on their hands. Dehydration: Occurs when the loss of fluids—mostly water, exceeds the amount taken in. Skin turgor is a sign commonly used by estheticians to assess the degree of dehydration. The esthetician grasps the skin on the back of the hand between two fingers so that it is tented up. The skin is held for a few seconds, then released. Skin with normal turgor snaps rapidly back to its normal position. Skin with decreased turgor remains elevated and returns slowly to its normal position. Dehydration is generally from within (systemic), but hydration treatments can be helpful. These clients can receive any hand treatment. continues

Warts are caused by the human papilloma virus and are thought to enter the skin through trauma. • Page 119

image|hand health

Estheticians who open their mind to include their clients’ hands as treatment areas can add many services to their menu.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #355 on reader service card

Hyperpigmentation/hypopigmentation: This is caused by an increase of melanin in the skin. Certain conditions, such as pregnancy or Addison’s disease (decreased function of the adrenal gland), may cause a greater production of melanin and thus, hyperpigmentation. Trauma to the skin may leave temporary coloration post healing; exposure to sunlight is a major cause. Hypopigmentation is the result of a reduction in melanin production. Examples of hypopigmentation include vitiligo, albinism and damage to the skin. Hyperpigmentation can be reduced with the same treatments as those for the face. Hypopigmentation cannot be treated by beauty professionals. Hand treatments are not a problem for these clients. Calluses: The thickest skin on the body is on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet, areas within the scope of practice for estheticians. This increased thickening is caused by pressure on an area. Intermittent pressure or friction causes calluses to develop for protection in places, and requires added attention during services to soften and exfoliate. A treatment series: The repetition of treatments over time to accomplish a goal. Estheticians are accustomed to designing series for their clients’ facial goals, but designing them to meet goals for the hands is new. Actually, some conditions will not be improved without a series. Very dry hands are one example. A series, supported by the appropriate home care, can make them baby soft and lovely. Hyperpigmentation and calluses are also conditions that are best treated in series, using facial products right out of your cabinets. Estheticians who open their mind to include their clients’ hands as treatment areas can add many services to their menu. They must include an analysis of clients’ hands, along with the facial analysis, after becoming aware of hand conditions that might prevent or modify the care. n

Janet McCormick is a CIDESCO Diplomat, certified medical nail technician, trainer, former spa director and salon owner. She has written more than 400 articles for beauty industry magazines and books. McCormick is the co-owner of Medinail Learning Center, a provider of modular online and school courses about safe techniques for nail technicians. She can be reached at or 863.273.9134. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #195 on reader service card

Page 120 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

Susan Posnick Cosmetics has launched the new COLORDUO, a long-wearing, ultra creamy, double-sided lip pencil that provides rich, pigmented color and moisture with the added benefit of lip plumping agents. COLORDUO features two universally flattering shades, Nude and Rouge. Formulated with jojoba oil and vitamin E, it delivers long-lasting color and moisture, the perfect lip pencil for day or night.

FLOWER POWER Aveda announces the limitededition Passion Flower makeup collection for the autumn/ winter of 2012. The collection includes a full assortment of items, including lip colors, glazes, liners and eye colors. Ultra feminine beauty with a modern twist is the inspiration behind the bold lips, luminous skin and sculpted brows enhanced by the special collection.


powder: Antonina Sotnykova/

The Hybrids Skin Perfecting Primer Acne and Shine Control by Murad controls shine, evens skin tone and treats breakouts. The universal shade can take the place of foundation for smooth coverage and a camera-ready complexion for any guy or gal!

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa






The Club Mend Bump Repair Gel by Clubman® Shave is formulated to unclog pores, heal irritated skin and help prevent scarring. It eases razor burn, shave bumps and ingrown hair. The rich gel formula can be applied directly to the skin without using messy cotton balls or pads. Powerful salicylic acid and panthenol are included in a unique bacteria fighting formula, dissolving impurities that block pores, a leading cause of ingrown hair. • Page 121



Enhance your client’s eyebrow color for a look that will last six weeks, eliminating the need to use an eye pencil, eyebrow makeup or eye powder. The Godefroy® Tint Kit for Spot Coloring completely covers even the most resistant gray hair in less than five minutes. It is available in jet black, natural black, dark brown, medium brown, light brown and graphite, and comes in easy to use one application capsules.


COMPLEXION PERFECTION The new Violet Brightening Powder from Besame Cosmetics brightens up any complexion. It applies translucently, and the unique violet hue illuminates the skin. It can be worn alone, over foundation or add a lift to tired eyes and under eye circles. It works on any skin tone and sets makeup beautifully, leaving a matte finish, says the company.

The Cure Sheer Cream by Natura Bissé is more than a hydrating, skin defense treatment fortified with SPF 20. The color enhanced moisturizer also provides a hint of seduction and luminosity for the face. The Cure Sheer Cream eliminates the need to use addtional makeup for touch-ups.

Page 122 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

brush and powder: Marylooo/



The three-piece, travel size Makeup Brush Set from Mini Kittour® contains three petite double-sided brushes, offering six complete options to fulfill all application needs while conserving space. The brush sets are available individually and in travel kits, including the Daily (single-sided), Overnight and Jet Setter. The six applicators include a liner brush, brow brush, eyeshadow brush, blender brush, face powder brush and blush brush.

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LED LIGHT THERAPY CERTIFICATION CLASSES LED light therapy helps you achieve greater results for your clients and higher rewards for your business. For information on class locations, please visit our website at For inquiries on becoming a LightStim Educator, please contact 800.298.4010

EMPLOYMENT Éminence Organic Skin Care is looking for their next out­ standing International Trainer. Must be a licensed esthetician, have 2 years experience with Éminence products and willing to travel extensivly. Previous training experience an asset. Visit to learn more. We are a French cosmeceutical skin care company distributed through a network of 70 business partners in 64 countries around the world. We are actually looking for an exclusive business partner in the USA. For more information please visit our website at or send an e-mail to Image Skincare seeks Territory Managers to join U.S. sales force Are you an esthetician? Do you want an income with no limits? Do you have sales experience? Are you self-motivated with an entrepreneurial mindset? Would you like a flexible schedule? Do you LOVE this business? If you have answered “yes” to these questions and are interested in working for the most fun, dynamic and innovative company in the cosmeceutical industry, send your resume to resumes@ and visit pages/job-opportunities for a list of available territories.





Advanced Clarifying Protocol This month win a grand prize from PCA Skin valued at $250

Feeling Left Out? Place your classified ad with Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and get national exposure for a fraction of the cost. It’s just $2 a word, with a $30 minimum. Sign up online, and preview your ad before it is published in the magazine. For more information, please contact Maria Gil at 800.471.0229; e-mail; or visit

Check out the working steps from PCA Skin and enter the drawing for a chance to win!*



To place an ad, please call 800.471.0229 ext. 103, e-mail or visit

August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 123



West AUGUST (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. Distance learning available.

Full-Spectrum Reiki for Beauty Professionals: Integrated Reiki Spa Treatments by Linda Bertaut at Bertaut Beauty. Pasadena and San Francisco, CA. 626.405.0424. HydroPeptide Product Training Seminar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 10 a.m. PST. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Encinitas, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Long Beach, CA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels and Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Seattle, WA. 888.568.3150.

AUGUST 5 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 6 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Los Angeles, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Francisco, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 13 Bio-Ultimate Platinum Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Page 124 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

West Central East International

AUGUST 13-15



3-Day Intensive Skin Care Training by Phytomer. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.227.8051.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Renewal Treatments for Fall by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar held at 6:00 p.m. P.S.T. 800.689.0499.

AUGUST 14 Bio-HydrodermV2 Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN.



Bio-Synthesis Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. San Diego, CA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

map: © Romain

AUGUST 16 Bio-Oxygen Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

AUGUST 17 Bio-Brasion Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. Product Retailing According to Client Skin Type and Condition by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.

AUGUST 26 Methode Physiodermie Product Knowledge by Methode Physiodermie. San Jose, CA. 800.263.8888. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 27 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Scottsdale, AZ. 877.PCA.SKIN. continues • Page 125


CALENDAR OF EVENTS Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Seattle, WA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Physiotonifying of the Face by Methode Physiodermie. San Jose, CA. 800.263.8888.

Know Your Facial Anatomy by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PTESEP

SEPTEMBER 26 Energize Your Skin With ATP by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT

SEPTEMBER 10-14 5-Day Intenisve Skin & Body Care Training by Phytomer. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.227.8051.PTESEP

Pumpkin Rejuvenation by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 6:00 p.m. P.S.T. 800.689.0499.

SEPTEMBER 11 AUGUST 27-29 2.5 Day Intensive Face & Body Training by Vie Collection. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.843.0800.

Bio-Ultimate Platinum Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PTESE

OCTOBER 7 Methode Physiodermie Product Knowledge by Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888.

SEPTEMBER 12 SEPTEMBER 8 Integrating Wellness Services in the Spa, Salon and Health Care Worlds by Day Spa Association. Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229. National Esthetic Teacher Training Conference by NCEA. Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.

Bio-HydrodermV2 Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PTES

Physiotonifying of the Face by Methode Physiodermie. Denver, CO. 800.263.8888.



Bio-Synthesis Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PTES

3-Day Intensive Skin Care Training by Phytomer. Salt Lake City, UT. 800.227.8051.P


SEPTEMBER 9-10 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope. Long Beach, CA. 800.471.0229.


OCTOBER 18 SEPTEMBER 14 Bio-Oxygen Curriculum by Bio-Therapeutic. Seattle, WA. 800.976.2544.PT

1-Day Intensive Organic Skin & Body Care Training by Fleur’s. Salt Lake City, UT. 877.353.8777.PT

Page 126 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012


Central AUGUST (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Dallas, TX. 888.568.3150. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 12 p.m. CST.

AUGUST 20 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dallas, TX. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 22 Renewal Treatments for Fall by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 8:00 p.m. C.S.T. 800.689.0499.

SEPTEMBER 26 Pumpkin Rejuvenation by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 8:00 p.m. C.S.T. 800.689.0499.

OCTOBER 28-29 Concierge Aesthetics by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. San Antonio, TX. 800.689.0499.PTE

East AUGUST (ONGOING) Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150. Antiqua Prima Level I Introductory Classes by Laura L. Root. Webinars held every Monday and Friday. 866.358.1694 Ext. 4. HydroPeptide Product Training Webinar by HydroPeptide. Webinars held Mondays at 1 p.m. EST. Knowledge is Power Series by A Natural Difference Skincare. Cooper City, FL. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Atlanta, GA. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Columbus, OH. 888.568.3150.

Advanced Chemical Peels with Skin Assessment by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150.

Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 888.568.3150. continues

AUGUST 26-27 Concierge Aesthetics by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. San Antonio, TX. 800.689.0499. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • Page 127


CALENDAR OF EVENTS Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference Skincare. Philadelphia, PA. 888.568.3150. Seasonal Peels & Unusual Actives by A Natural Difference. Wilmington, DE. 888.568.3150.



Product Knowledge and the Art of Recommendation (Spanish) by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Boston, MA. 877.PCA.SKIN.


Biolight™ Miracle Facial ... Beyond Brightening Facial Workshop by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Repêchage Webinar: Steps to Success & the Art of Recommendation by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN. ®

AUGUST 3-5 Himalayan Mountain Abhyanga by Diamond Way Ayurveda. Atlanta, GA. 866.303.3321.

AUGUST 19 AUGUST 5 Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 6 Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. New York, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Advanced Peeling Techniques for Complex Skin Conditions: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Virginia Beach, VA. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Fort Lauderdale, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Charleston, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Dayton, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN. Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Dayton, OH. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. South Carolina, SC. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Tampa, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

AUGUST 22 AUGUST 19-20 2-Day Body Care Training by Phytomer. New York, NY. 800.227.8051.

Renewal Treatments for Fall by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar held at 9:00 p.m. E.S.T. 800.689.0499.

Page 128 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012





Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Albany, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN.

Peel Basics: A Hands-on Course by Eve Taylor. Southbury, CT. 800.461.3745.

3-Day Anti-Aging Academy: Aging Factors Influencing Visible Aging of the Skin & Professional Solutions by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

Skin Biology & Chemical Peel Seminar by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 24 Four Layer Facial® (Spanish) by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

AUGUST 27 Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Albany, NY. 877.PCA.SKIN. Peel Fundamentals: A Hands-on Course by PCA Skin. Orlando, FL. 877.PCA.SKIN.

SEPTEMBER 10-11 2-Day Product Knowledge & Facial Bar Workshop: The Art of Recommendation by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.

A Holistic Approach to the Treatment of Menopausal Women by Eve Taylor. Southbury, CT. 800.461.3745. August 2012 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa

Sponsored by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope

SEPTEMBER 26 Pumpkin Rejuvenation by Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Webinar at 9:00 p.m. E.S.T. 800.689.0499.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2012 September 9-10 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229


The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Miami Beach 2013 April 7-8 • Miami Beach, FL 1.800.471.0229

2-Day Hydra-Medic Problem Skin Workshop by Repêchage. Secaucus, NJ. 800.248.SKIN.



The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa by Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa and Dermascope. Philadelphia, PA. 800.471.0229.

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2012 October 28-29 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas 2013 May 5-6 • Arlington, TX 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Long Beach 2013 September 29-30 • Long Beach, CA 1.800.471.0229 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia 2013 October 27-28 • Philadelphia, PA 1.800.471.0229 • Page 129

advertisers’ index Page Number

Reader Service No.

6................. 5 Star Formulators................................................... 180 5................. A Natural Difference................................................. 232 46............... Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts.......................... 120 72............... Allied Health Association........................................ 209 83............... Athena Beauty Inc................................................... 162 120............. Ayu Sunless.............................................................. 355 82............... Beautiful Image....................................................... 183 43,90.......... Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... 139 89............... Bioslimming............................................................ 335 19............... Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.......................................... 101 132............. Darphin................................................................... .159 38............... DermaMed.............................................................. 152 61............... DPC......................................................................... 146 106............. Dr. Jeff..................................................................... .248 2-3...............Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. 157 103............. Equipro................................................................... 242 8................. Eve Taylor................................................................. 228 63............... Hydropeptide.......................................................... 278 20............... Image Skincare........................................................ 178 12-13......... International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, The........ 131............. Jojoba 108 69............... Laboratoires Reynard................................................ 148 11............... Lady 119 67............... Le 294 37............... Lucrèce Physicians’ Aesthetic .263 110............. Michael 169 15............... Organic 315 39............... PCA 110 91............... 224 7................. Raw 270 68............... Rejuvi 149 100............. Select Spa 253 33............... Skin 218 120............. 195 79............... Terraderma/Pibbs.................................................... 129 17............... Vitelle...................................................................... 206

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

Page 130 • Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa • August 2012

Pure & Safe

for even a newborn’s skin

Our HobaCare® 100% Pure Jojoba: The Professional’s Choice Aestheticians, massage therapists, and aroma therapists use our HobaCare® Jojoba on their clients and, most flattering of all, on themselves. They know our jojoba is absolutely pure; it has no fillers, additives or preservatives. And, it’s incredibly versatile. Use our HobaCare Jojoba for: • removing make-up, facial massage, and deep-cleansing the skin • all massage modalities requiring direct contact with the skin • revitalizing hair and scalp • enriching the skin after a shower or bath • providing soothing relief from psoriasis • conditioning and softening cuticles • soothing skin after exposure to the sun • blending essential oils (our website has many useful recipes)

Available in Pesticide-Free and USDA Certified 100% Organic in gallons as well as in the sizes shown above. (Litre, 250 ml, 125 ml and 1 oz)

HobaCare is non-allergenic. It does not stain, and does not clog pores or turn rancid. Our Jojoba has an indefinite shelf life.

Pure and safe for everyone’s skin

no animal testing / cruelty-free

no animal testing / cruelty-free

The Jojoba Company Since 1994

Contact Us

1-800 - 2 JOJOBA ( 1-800-256-5622 )

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #108 on reader service card

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #159 on reader service card

LNE & Spa - August 2012  

LNE & Spa - August 2012

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