1 x Le Parfum haute e-magazine (English) - Fall/Winter 2023 chapter 3 by leparfummagazine

L E PA R F U M H A U T E

M A G A Z I N E

THE GIFT OF

LUXURY

CONTENTS BRANDS TO DISCOVER

DOSE OF INSPIRATION 8

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE Fragrances for this season

MUST-VISIT PERFUMERIES The most luxurious perfume hotspots

YOUR DAILY SPRITZ OF GREENS The trend of vegetable perfumes

BEST S(M)ELLERS Winter-proof scents

IT’S IN THE FAMILY IT’ All about smoky, spicy & woody perfumes

TOP NOTCH Clic-Clac by Henry Jacques

ON THE GRAM The prettiest niche pic(k)s

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU Four intriguing perfume brands

GOLDEN ARTISTRY Atelier Des Ors

BEHIND THE SCENTS Maison Crivelli

WINTER WONDERS Magical novelties

IN CONVERSATION WITH

KNOW-HOW 36

NOSY ’BOUT NOTES? Amberlievable fragrance notes

JUS DE ROSE How to build a perfume wardrobe

PAOLO AND TIZIANA TERENZI From Italy with love

VINCENT RICORD A melody of scents

SCOTT MCGLASHAN Recandle your cosy season

CÉCILE ZAROKIAN Q&A about Vanilla Edesia

SCENT UP YOUR HOME Welton London’s home fragrances

TRENDING TOPIC Emotional fragrance creation

ESCENTIALS Fragrance extraction methods

MORE OF LE PARFUM

POWER UP YOUR PERFUME Make your home smell scent-sational

A BOUQUET OF INCLUSIVITY Column by Giulia D’Incecco

YOUR GO-TO PERFUME ADVISOR The ultimate gift guide

EDITORIAL

Unwrapping Chapter 3

JOIN LE PARFUM CLUB

Become an exclusive member

COMPETITION

Wanted: a million dollar idea

UNWRAPPING

CHAPTER 3

website LEPARFUMMAGAZINE.COM socials @LEPARFUMMAGAZINE

he festive season is that magical time when the world glistens with joy, and hearts are enlivened by the presence of cherished ones. It’s a season of festive decorations, stories shared by the fireside, and gifts expressing gratitude and affection. The world transforms into a Winter Wonderland, symbolising a harmonious blend of love, generosity, and time-honoured tradition. It’s the perfect season for captivating fragrances that embody the spirit of these cherished moments – not only for your own enjoyment, but also as heartfelt gifts for your loved ones! In the months leading up to this third edition of Le Parfum magazine, we have once again been pleasantly surprised by the enthusiasm and support from the niche perfume community. It has expanded the reach of our platform far beyond the borders of Europe, where our stories have been warmly embraced. We have even launched this chapter 3 at ScentXplore, the international niche perfume convention in New York City, USA. We are constantly evolving, much like our content. With each chapter, a whole new world unfolds for us, the creators, as well as you, our valued audience. In this third chapter, we opened the doors to even more wonderful collaborations with perfumers, brands, industry experts, entrepreneurs, and influencers. In our Must-Visit Perfumeries section, we once again journeyed to some of the most exquisite perfumeries in the world. We met up with Vincent Ricord, who shared

his captivating journey as senior perfumer. We also delved into the stories behind enchanting brands like Tiziana Terenzi, Maison Crivelli, Atelier Des Ors, Henry Jacques, and Welton London. Within the magazine’s pages, you can boost your fragrance knowledge by exploring topics such as extraction methods, the emerging trend of vegetable perfume notes, the amberlievable world of perfume ingredients, olfactory families tailored to the current season, and crafting your ideal perfume wardrobe with Jus de Rose. During the colder season, home collections become increasingly important, and Blu Blazer Guy has handpicked the most delightfully scented candles to adorn your home. We’re also excited to share a fantastic technique for infusing your home with delightful aromas this season. Immerse yourself in our pages and explore the enchanting olfactory tales within. We hope to transform your wintry season into pure magic. From our families to yours, we wish you a winter season filled with warmth, happiness, and the most beautiful of scents. May your festive season be unforgettable and may the fragrances you choose create memories to treasure. With the warmest of scented wishes,

Team Le Parfum EDITORIAL

1 NATURE’S FINEST Harnessing 100% natural materials, Altra unveils boundless pathways to nature. Ghost Flower combines expressive florals,

1 UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE The time has come to dig out those cosy sweaters from your wardrobe and embrace the comforting vibes of the upcoming season. Elevate your autumn/winter look with our top fragrance picks, the perfect finishing touch for your outfit.

incense, tropical fruits, white lily, rich resins, and smoky woods to win over your heart. Ghost Flower by Altra, eau de parfum 50 ml €195

2 KALEIDOSCOPE OF LOVE This oriental bouquet of warm, sweet, and floral notes signifies the meeting of two icons, French perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain and Russia’s greatest actress Renata Litvinova. Renata 1226 by My Exclusive Collection, eau de parfum 100 ml €210

3 MUSIC TO YOUR EARS Inspired by Voodoo Chile by Jimi Hendrix, perfumer Nicolas Beaulieu masterfully intertwines the distinct notes of rosemary and patchouli, crafting a woody aroma that ignites the senses. Voodoo Chile by Dries Van Noten, eau de parfum 100 ml €250

4 WARM BLANKET VIBES

A warm and sensual fragrance that celebrates the precious Madagascar vanilla, harmoniously complemented by rich leather undertones. Vanille Leather by BDK Parfums, eau de parfum 100 ml €205

5 O HOLY NIGHT Crafted to resemble a hypnotic jewel, this fragrance symbolises infinite spiritual energy, expressed through notes of amber and musk and complemented by the subtle freshness of ginger. Blue Talisman by Ex Nihilo, eau de parfum 100 ml €280

6 STOP AND STARE

Reflecting on the year gone by, Vilhelm Parfumerie invites you to savour the present moment with a captivating blend of petit-grain, ginger, and sandalwood. Back To The Roots by Vilhelm Parfumerie, eau de parfum 100 ml €250

7 FORBIDDEN JUICE Pushing the boundaries of temperance through its lavish use of precious ingredients, this fragrance leaves an extravagant trail of patchouli, benzoin, and the elusive hyrax. Jus Interdit by Jovoy Paris, extrait de parfum 50 ml €145

8 WEAPON OF SEDUCTION A single spritz of this extrait, featuring a tangy burst of red fruits coated in sweet caramel, will envelop you in a sensual aura that’s sure to capture the attention of everyone in the room. Mula Mula Rouge Extrême by Byron, extrait de parfum 75 ml €210

9 PURE HOLIDAY BLISS This oriental spicy fragrance with its sensual touch will bring joy to your loved ones and instantly get you into the holiday spirit! Nirvana by Paradis Des Sens, eau de

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

parfum 100 ml €193

10 VINTAGE PEARL Eau la la... a juice to be savoured to the last drop. Creamy

top notes of almond and milk are warmed by spicy saffron and a sweet heart of bourbon, vanilla, and irresistible toffee. Italica by Casamorati, eau de parfum 100 ml €300

INSPIRATION

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU Introducing four intriguing brands and their recommendations for you to discover this season!

SALAS PERFUME: ARABIC ARTISTRY ARTISANAL | ELEGANT | CUSTOM-MADE

Recognisable by its unique cap, the fragrances of Salas Perfume are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the nose. The cap’s artful design, inspired by the graceful swirls of incense smoke, is meticulously handcrafted from Murano glass. Salah Al Zarouni offers ten distinct signature fragrances, each perfectly suited for a different mood or occasion. Don’t know which one to smell first? Our top pick of this season is Bianco Eterno. It has a warm and spicy blend, enriched with creamy, woody, and sensuous notes that linger beautifully in the crisp winter air. Bianco Eterno | eau de parfum | 100 ml | €497

website SALASARTPERFUMES.COM instagram @SALASARTPARFUMS

LENGLING: A TALE OF CONTRASTS ARTISTIC | AMBIVALENT | AUTHENTIC

Ursula and Christian Lengling, a couple and partners in business, shared a dream: to create not just elegant scents but entire artworks of premium quality. This vision gave birth to Lengling, Munich’s first perfume house. Each fragrance, handpicked for its highest quality and based on a unique concept, is created in Munich. The Lengling fragrances are all extrait de parfums and characterised by two contrasting notes, Leng and Ling, which harmoniously interplay with each other during the perfume journey. À La Carte No 6 epitomises this contrast with a LENG-note of an enthralling oud – complemented by sandalwood, styrax, and olibanum – paired with a LING-note of sweet delicacies like pistachio, toffee, and vanilla. It’s a charming and divine fragrance that celebrates the pleasures in life, making it a wonderful pick for the holiday season. website LENGLING.COM instagram @LENGLINGMUNICH

À La Carte No 6 | extrait de parfum | 50 ml | €218

ROBERTO UGOLINI: SHOE ICON ITALIAN | CRAFTSMANSHIP | PASSION

For over two decades, artisanal footwear connoisseurs from around the globe have journeyed to Florence to visit the workshop of Roberto Ugolini. Nestled between an osteria and a café, this exquisite atelier is renowned for its world-class artisan shoes. As soon as you step inside, you enter a universe of sights with smells of supple leather, finely carved wood, and an array of leather oils, waxes, and polishes. The traditional craftsmanship combined with the shop’s fragrant ambiance is encapsulated in the Roberto Ugolini perfume collection by The Nose Behind. Among this collection’s treasures you’ll find 17 Rosso, a captivating extrait de parfum boasting a harmonious blend of tropical, floral, fruity, spicy, and woody notes. Its name and colour were inspired by the location of Roberto Ugolini’s renowned workshop. Fancy a visit to this iconic space? Just mention ‘17 Rosso’ to your driver, and you’ll be en route! website NOSEBEHIND.COM instagram @THE_NOSE_BEHIND

17 Rosso | extrait de parfum | 100 ml | €220

Severo | eau de parfum | 100 ml | €145

JACQUES ZOLTY: AN EXOTIC GETAWAY

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

BEACHY | STYLISH | JOIE DE VIVRE

Jacques Zolty, a photographer, model, and artist from the picturesque island of Saint Barthélemy, ventured into the world of perfumery two decades ago. His fragrances tell enchanting stories of hidden treasures and intriguing cultures, each bottle inviting you to indulge in luxury, elegance, and savoir-faire. In Severo, the captivating story of a charming, free-spirited Cuban ladies’ man unfolds, whose character aligns impeccably with his favourite cocktail: the Cuba Libre. Drawing inspiration from this beloved cocktail, Severo embodies the very essence of contagious passion, euphoria, and endless vigour. The composition of the fragrance evokes dreams of an endless summer, carrying the warmth of sun-kissed days into the chill of winter with a harmonious blend of lime, rum, cola, davana, black pepper, vanilla, and white musk. website JACQUESZOLTYSTBARTH.COM instagram @JACQUESZOLTY

INSPIRATION

MUST--VISIT MUST

PERFUMERIES

photography PROVIDED BY THE STORES

From Australia to India, Romania, and France, browse through the world’s most stunning and luxurious perfumeries to add to your must-visit list!

PERFUME PLAYGROUND

website LKNU.COM.AU instagram @LKNU_PARFUMERIE

Nestled in the cultural capital of Australia, Melbourne, LKNU Parfumerie is more than just a store; it is an olfactive playground, bringing a diverse range of exceptional artisanal fragrances from across the world to Melbourne. From rising stars in the niche universe to iconic heritage brands and elusive niche gems, LKNU Parfumerie caters not only to newcomers in niche perfumery but also to those in search of artistic or avant-garde expressions. As a testament to their unwavering passion for uncompromised perfumery, LKNU Parfumerie focuses on slow perfumery, allowing guests ample time to truly appreciate the scents and exchange scented tales. This philosophy finds its reflection in the exquisite interior of the LKNU boutique: a serene, curvaceous design that cradles the fragrances on a cluster of oak plinths, cocooned by plush, velvety seating. Here in this space that echoes their commitment to the art of fragrance, you are invited to explore, experience, and fall in love with the world of perfume.

"PERFUMES INVITE US TO PLAY AND TO IMAGINE…" LKNU PARFUMERIE IN MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA

A FRAGRANT

LOVE AFFAIR

"WE ARE PROUD TO BE ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF NICHE FRAGRANCES IN INDIA" SCENTIDO IN MUMBAI, INDIA

website SCENTIDO.COM instagram @SCENTIDOINDIA

In the heart of India, a one-of-a-kind niche perfume boutique stands out; not only because of its crisp blue walls, glittering crystal chandeliers, and Victorian tiles, but because perfume lovers can expect a truly unique experience. In 2018, Scentido Niche Perfumery opened its doors as the first experiential luxury boutique in India. It all began with a love affair – Shishir Mehta’s fervent passion for the world’s most rare and exclusive scents. His quest to create a destination for self-

discovery through an olfactory experience that captures all senses led him to the most ravishing undiscovered scents of the world. Enveloped in the very essence of its name, which hails from the Spanish word ‘sentido’, translating to ‘sense’ or ‘heartfelt’, this niche perfumery exudes genuine warmth and hospitality, welcoming every guest to explore the art of perfumery. Upon entering any of the seven Scentido boutiques, you’ll be captivated by the sophisticated Art Deco interior, blending the timeless allure of prestigious perfume houses with contemporary glamour. Inside, you will find a fine selection of niche fragrance brands, handpicked from different corners of the world, from France to New York, Italy to London, and from Dubai to Oman.

PERFUME

OASIS

On the French Riviera lies the picturesque city of Cannes. Best known for the Cannes Film Festival, one of the most prestigious film festivals in the world, the city radiates luxury and glamour. For perfume lovers, Cannes is a hotspot during the annual TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in October. Nestled along the scenic Mediterranean coastline, just a street away from the renowned Boulevard de la Croissette, lies Taizo Perfumery.

website TAIZO.FR instagram @TAIZO_OFFICIAL

Taizo has been at the forefront of the perfume and beauty care industry. Founded by Didier Pinier – a skilled perfumer, beauty enthusiast, and astute entrepreneur – the perfumery seeks to captivate its international clientele, leaving visitors with a lasting impression. With a commitment to seeking out extraordinary products from his global travels, he introduced the latest trends to his store and emerged as a premier destination for distinctive brands like L’Artisan Parfumeur, Lorenzo Villoresi, Diptyque, Comme des Garçons, Houbigant, and more.

"The Taizo perfume institute is dedicated to rare perfumes"

TAIZO PERFUMERY IN CANNES, FRANCE

LUXURY

TREASURE TROVE If you’re considering a visit to Romania, make sure to add niche perfume store Beautik Haute Parfumerie to your must-see list! With more than 1,500 luxury beauty products, ranging from perfumery to skincare and home accessories, Beautik is a sanctuary of luxury where rare scents and precious ingredients meet. While all products are available through their webshop, for those seeking a full-sensory experience, Beautik boasts eight state-of-the-art store concepts across the country.

"TO US, LUXURY REPRESENTS SOMETHING OF VALUE THAT FUTURE GENERATIONS WILL CHERISH" BEAUTIK HAUTE PARFUMERIE IN CLUJ-NAPOCA, ROMANIA

website BEAUTIK.RO instagram @BEAUTIKHAUTEPARFUMERIE

One of those is a modern fragrance boutique located in the shopping centre of Iulius Mall Cluj. The interior displays a clean, minimalistic design with warm wooden wall panels, terrazzo stone-inspired flooring, a backdrop evoking a concrete feel, and green plants cascading from the ceiling. A myriad of niche fragrances is gracing the shelves, featuring renowned brands such as Amouage, Arabian Oud, Fugazzi, Houbigant, and Marc Antoine Barrois, among many others. Each one an olfactory gem for you to discover on your own or with the guidance of a personal consultation.

FUN AND

UNIQUE

website SMELLSTORIES.BE instagram @SMELL_STORIES

In the heart of Brussels, just a stone’s throw from the famous ‘Grande Place’, you will find Smell Stories: a playful and charming concept store where everything revolves around the sense of smell. The store seamlessly blends modern with heritage, boasting a stunning Art Nouveau facade and a colourful, contemporary interior. Inside, you will discover a curated selection of unique, undiscovered, and small-scale brands that you won’t find anywhere in Brussels or even in Belgium. “For us, what matters most is the people behind the creation and the stories that accompany each perfume and brand. That’s why we are called ‘Smell Stories’, of course!”

While the store’s primary focus is perfumes, you can also indulge in many other artisanal products, such as wonderfully scented candles, toothpaste, detergent, and soaps. Driven by an unparalleled love for the captivating realm of fragrances, owners Kurt and Stéphane are dedicated to helping you discover the perfume that resonates with your essence. They take the time to listen to your story and help you discover your perfect fragrance. Through their perfume tastings, you are invited to learn more about the art of perfumery and explore your own olfactory taste. “Smell Stories is a dream destination for openminded perfume adventurers. Maybe not for everyone, but you are not everyone either.”

"We are all about the stories and the people behind the creations" SMELL STORIES IN BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

LUXURY FOR

SKIN & SENSES

"We aim to offer the exceptional, by letting luxury take center stage" BEAUTY CONCEPT SHOP IN KORSCHENBROICH, GERMANY

website BEAUTY-CONCEPT-SHOP.DE instagram @BEAUTYCONCEPTSHOP

The multi-award-winning institute Beauty Concept Shop has found its home in the charming little town of Korschenbroich. Since its opening in 2005, the specialist areas of niche perfumery and exclusive skin care have merged into an inseparable unit in the luxurious premises. In the modern treatment rooms, customers can experience innovative treatment methods that promise a real feel-good moment. Be it anti-aging care, skin analyses, or microneedling – Beauty Concept Shop invites you to forget the stress of everyday life. For

this special service, the beauty institute has been awarded the ‘Gloria - German Cosmetic Award’ and the title of ‘Institute of the Year’ multiple times. Only the best care products are used for every treatment – from premium skincare brands such as La Colline, iS Clinical, and Eponé. Luxury also takes center stage in the perfumery section of Beauty Concept Shop. Only exceptional niche perfume brands find their place in the range, including top-class names such as Xerjoff, Haute Fragrance Company (HFC Paris), Parfums Caron, and Fragrance Du Bois. All the fragrances of Beauty Concept Shop’s collection can also be ordered through their webshop. With every order, each customer even receives five exclusive niche fragrance samples free of charge! If you love luxury, then Beauty Concept Shop is undoubtedly the place for you. Get yourself a luxurious treatment onsite by the expert cosmetician Karin Eschenbruch and experience an unforgettable glimpse of the world of niche perfumery during the exclusive fragrance consultation.

YOUR DAILY SPRITZ OF

GREENS In an era increasingly defined by the clean and green beauty movement, an interesting fragrance trend has emerged in the perfume industry: perfumes with a veggie touch. While vegetable fragrance notes have been quietly thriving for years, they are now enjoying a resurgence in perfumery. Today’s perfume brands are wholeheartedly embracing the treasures of the garden to craft their latest olfactory masterpieces – meaning you can now turn to your perfume flacon for your dose of greens!

hile vegetable notes might not seem too exciting at first, they can actually be very appealing in fragrances. Vegetables infuse scents with freshness and vibrancy, treating you to an invigorating and uplifting experience. As they are derived from renewable sources, they also add a sustainable and natural touch to your fragrance. What’s more, veggies are cruelty-free and often more biodegradable. These notes also typically have a lower environmental footprint compared to synthetic ingredients, which often need chemical processes. Moreover, their versatility enables them to complement a wide range of fragrance ingredients, allowing perfumers to craft complex and well-balanced compositions with sweeter or heavier elements. The use of vegetable fragrance notes has a rich history, dating back to 1976 with the launch of Sisley’s iconic fragrance Eau de Campagne. Celebrating the beauty of nature, its fragrant tapestry paints a crisp, green 20

scenery of basilica, wild herbs, and lemon. Within its composition, citrus notes complement the scent of tomato leaves, intertwining harmoniously with floral nuances like jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, geranium, and plum. The fragrance’s success paved the way for many other perfumers today who explore the most veggielicious notes.

CARROT

As a much-loved and widely-consumed vegetable in many parts of the world, it’s not surprising that this veggie is frequently featured in fragrances. While the actual carrots themselves are not regularly used as a raw material in perfumery because of their relatively mild aroma, their seeds are! The essential oil extracted from these seeds has a unique scent that’s earthy and rooty, similar to the smell of freshly turned soil and the carrot plant itself, with a slightly sweet and herbal twist and woody undertones. Carrot seeds can complement a wide range of other ingredients, from florals to woods and spices. As a fragrance note, it’s commonly used as a heart note, to not only add depth to a fragrance but also bring complexity and an earthy nuance. FRAGRANCE TIP: EYES CLOSED BY BYREDO Did you know that the powdery scent of carrot seeds is reminiscent of the highly-prized and sought-after iris, also known the blue gold of perfumery? They are 50 times less expensive, making carrot seeds an excellent and more costeffective alternative.

RHUBARB

One of the fragrance notes that has gained popularity for its intriguing scent is rhubarb. This ingredient is unique and refreshing with a combination of tart, sour, slightly fruity scents with green and earthy undertones reminiscent of the edible plant. Various parts of the rhubarb, such as the rhizome, stems, or leaves, can be used to capture different facets of this scent. Radiating brightness, energy, and a hint of tanginess, rhubarb is mainly used as a top note in perfumery, contributing to the initial impression of a fragrance. It’s often paired with fruity, green, citrus, floral, herbal, or woody elements, for a modern and dynamic touch. FRAGRANCE TIP: IMPERIAL PEACOCK BY ALEXANDRE J.

CAULIFLOWER

When it comes to new vegetable fragrance notes in modern perfumery, cauliflower deserves an honourable mention! Even though you might think cauliflower doesn’t have a distinct fragrance, it has a surprisingly unique, creamy, and spicy scent with powerful animalic and musky facets. With its nuances of pungent mustard seeds and acidic hints, which make it smell reminiscent of wasabi, it has a truly distinctive fragrance. Cauliflower fuses very well with oriental fragrance notes like vanilla and amber, or leathery and woody notes, to balance its earthy and smoky scent. FRAGRANCE TIP: TONKA BLANC BY L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR Did you know that roasted cauliflower can smell a lot like roasted popcorn?

BEETROOT

Similar to cauliflower, beetroot is a rather recentlydiscovered gem in perfumery. Its scent is earthy, rooty, and fresh, with a tone of sweetness, offering a unique and rare olfactory profile you don’t often encounter in mainstream fragrances. Beetroot harmonises well with a large variety of ingredients, such as citrus, florals, gourmand, herbal, spicy, woody, amber, and resinous notes. It evokes a sense of nature, freshness, and even nostalgia, reminiscent of the aromas we associate with gardens or pastures. FRAGRANCE TIP: PONY BOY BY JORUM STUDIO

FENNEL

As a fragrance note, fennel offers a very unconventional scent that’s mostly used in niche perfumery. It smells sweet and liquorice-like, with herbal undertones and serves as both a top and heart note, providing versatility in perfume compositions. Its botanical and earthy aroma evokes the outdoors and gardens, pairing harmoniously with citrus notes for freshness, florals for depth, or spicy and woody notes for warmth. Additionally, fennel is also known for its therapeutic properties in aromatherapy, as it calms and sooths the mind and body. FRAGRANCE TIP: SEAHORSE BY ZOOLOGIST INSPIRATION

How to build a

PERFUME WARDROBE Josephine, also known as Jus de Rose, is a fragrance content creator with a following of over half a million fans on YouTube, TikTok, and Instagram (@jusderose). Combining her perfume studies at ISIPCA and industry experience, she has a unique perspective on the world of scents. After years of building a remarkable fragrance wardrobe, she now shares her essential tips so you can build your very own!

ong gone are the days of the signature scent, the one fragrance that would embody one’s whole personality and style. With hundreds of new perfume launches each year, it’s difficult to stick to just one scent. Add social media into the mix, and you’re going to want a myriad of fragrances. Just like a well-curated wardrobe, your choice of fragrances can define your style and personality. Besides, we’re multifaceted human beings and need to express ourselves in different ways. Enter the world of perfume wardrobing – a collection of scents curated to suit different moods, outfits, occasions, and seasons. You want to boost your confidence? Wear a perfume that makes you feel great. Are you attending a wedding? Choose a scent that’s elegant and refined. Traveling to a tropical destination? Bring with you a light and refreshing scent. Different situations call for different scents. But where to start? Like with outfits, I think it’s important to invest in the essentials to create a fragrance wardrobe that suits any occasion.

COLUMN

FRAGRANCE WARDROBE ESSENTIALS

instagram @JUSDEROSE tiktok @JUSDEROSE youtube @JUSDEROSE

2 3

AN EVERYDAY LUCKY CHARM

This is the very first essential, that can be worn during the day, to work, and all year round. Your everyday scent will be your most-worn perfume, so be sure to understand which fragrance notes resonate with you the most. Do you like citruses, florals, amber or woody notes? Pick the ones you prefer and feel the most comfortable with.

THE WOW FACTOR

Next, you need an evening or date night scent. It must be a head-turning scent, to make you feel irresistible and to make a bold statement. The smell to compel, so to speak! You can stick with your favourite notes, but I do recommend going for a more powerful and intense scent, especially if your aim is to stand out from the crowd. Notes that often make for heavenly evening scents are sandalwood, oud, spices, amber, vanilla, patchouli, jasmine, and musk. These are sure to add a mysterious and sensual touch.

SEASONAL GEMS

You also need at least two seasonal perfumes to match with the weather. For spring and summer, try lighter fragrances with for instance citrus, floral, fruity, aromatic, or aquatic notes. Anything that feels refreshing, really. The notes that tend to shine the most in the colder autumn and winter months are warm woods, spices, and gourmand notes.

SOMETHING SPECIAL

Finally, you need a fragrance for more formal events or special occasions, like weddings, birthdays, or end of the year festivities. For this, go for a fragrance that smells refined and sophisticated. Start with your favourite perfume note and explore a different facet it of it. Do you like rose? Try it complimented with amber and musk. Perhaps you prefer woods? Look for a combination of sandalwood and vetiver – these types of notes exude class and sophistication. The idea is to have a scent that adds a little sprinkle of magic. Whenever you wear it, it will not only make you feel special, but it will also bring back those cherished memories with just one spray. Building a perfume wardrobe isn’t just about smelling good. It’s about crafting a fragrant reflection of your personality and adapting it to different facets of your life. Therefore, don’t rush establishing it. Much like your precious clothing wardrobe, building a fragrance collection can be a lovely and lingering journey that continuously evolves, along with your taste in perfumes. Curious to see Jus de Rose’s favourites in her perfume wardrobe? Head over to her YouTube channel to check out her niche fragrance picks.

JUS DE ROSE X LE PARFUM: FRAGRANCE WARDROBE ESSENTIALS 23

RELISH IN NICHE PERFUMES For years, Niche Perfumes has stood as a beacon of luxury in Spain, gracing the nation’s most iconic locales with its elegant boutiques. Now the luxury retailer is expanding globally, continuing to make their mark on the world with a ravishing new location in the Canary

Islands, and a 2023 Luxury Lifestyle award in the Niche Perfume Retailer category in the pocket. Their mission? To encapsulate the pinnacle of elegance within a perfume bottle. Explore their exquisite collection of premium brands at a boutique near you!

A SELECTION FOR YOU: MÁLAGA

SEVILLA

MALLORCA

GRAN CANARIA

C/ BENABOLA 16

HOTEL ALFONSO XIII

CASTILLO HOTEL SON VIDA

HOTEL SANTA CATALINA

+34 952 039 948

41004 Sevilla

07013 Balearic Islands

35005 Las Palmas

29660 Puerto Banús

AVDA. JULIO IGLESIAS 9 29660 Puerto Banús +34 952 817 016 MUELLE RIVERA

Edificio Levante 3A

29660 Puerto Banús +34 952 192 599

PLAZA MAYOR LOCAL 42 29004 Málaga

+34 952 216 103

C/ San Fernando 2 +34 955 627 251 HOTEL BARCELÓ

Isla de La Cartuja 41092 Sevilla

+34 954 460 077

Carrer Raixa 2

+34 971 723 651

de Gran Canaria

MADRID

07181 Balearic Islands

C/ DE VELÁZQUEZ 69

+34 663 666 654

BARCELONA

JORDAN

HOTEL ARTS C/ Marina 19-21 08005 Barcelona +34 935 646 873

GOLDEN GATE MALL UMM OTHAINA Shatt Al-Arab St. Amman +962 793 200 001

BY SPIRIT OF KINGS

C/ León y Castillo 227

ST. REGIS MARDAVALL

Costa D’en Blanes, Ma-1, 19

HARMONY

RED ISHQ BY ANFAS

28006 Madrid

+34 918 976 453

LAMAR

BY KAJAL

SHOP NOW

QUEEN OF THE NIGHT The mystic scent of unforgettable royalty

FROM

ITALY

WITH LOVE

Growing up in a family of creators and noses and always surrounded by scents, siblings Paolo and Tiziana Terenzi were destined for the world of perfumery. Merging their creative energies, the brand Tiziana Terenzi now stands as a beacon of beauty, art, and emotion, consistently captivating the niche perfume industry to this day. Join Paolo and Tiziana as we journey through the Terenzi universe, exploring their story – which also unveils two special novelties for you.

hich perfumery-related childhood memory do you two cherish the most? Paolo & Tiziana: Our grandfather, Guglielmo, taught us everything about perfumes. He was our teacher and eternal example of style. When we were children, we used to walk through Italy’s pristine woods together with him. As a perfumer, he taught us to recognise all the scents of nature and to compose our own olfactory tunes. He would pick flowers or break a sprig of wood and, blindfolded, we would try to guess the species. Now Paolo always incorporates the scent of nature into his universal sentimental dictionary, which he uses to create his olfactory poetry. Is it true that the brand Tiziana Terenzi started with the creation of candles? How did it evolve from there? Tiziana & Paolo: Well… we were born in a candle, so to speak, and making artisanal candles is indeed one of our greatest passions. It all started with our beloved grandparents: Luigia and Guglielmo. Luigia decided to harness INTERVIEW

her husband’s talents by setting up a modest artisan laboratory in a small room of their spacious family home. This marked the beginning of a story spanning over 50 years, handed down from one generation to the next. Guglielmo always loved fragrances, especially colognes. He created his own personal collection, using natural essences from his beloved land. His love for music and syncopated rhythms always infused his creations, much like an author’s signature touch. He taught our father, Evelino, the art of olfactory harmony and the techniques of well-balanced tension, borrowing the language of the senses from the world of music. Our father was a true inventor, able to transform the family business into an oasis of surprises, where even today visitors are charmed by the place, because it seems so magical. Evelino himself invented and produced the machines that were used. The small artisanal workshop gradually grew bigger, increasingly reflecting Evelino’s character. The bricks and floors and every nook and cranny of the premises are

still seeped in his spirit and scent. An olfactory memory that guided us in our ongoing search for a colossal new challenge, building upon the work of our predecessors. Even though our father sadly passed away, he was and still is the beacon in our lives. Through his guidance, he shaped our life’s journey, teaching us right from wrong and honesty from deceit. The Tiziana Terenzi brand was conceived in honour of our father’s legacy, celebrating his name. It embodies a shared passion, artistry, and ambition between us. We tirelessly dedicate ourselves to our work, following in the footsteps of our father and grandfather. What is something no one knows about Paolo and Tiziana Terenzi? Paolo: There are two passions that fully express who I am, apart from being a perfumer: music and sailing. They actually complement the art of perfumery and are even a source of inspiration to me. I often play my guitar like I used to do when I was a jazz guitarist, or I listen to some of my favourite songs that have also inspired me so many times in my life. It is often while I listen to music, in the peaceful atmosphere of my home, that I write in my diary. I always take notes of the creation I have in mind that I would love to bring to life in our collections. Sailing is the passion that stirs my soul like no other. Whether I’m alone in the winter or with my family on warm summer days, being on my boat is my ultimate refuge. I am

the captain of a beautiful boat, and I have sailed across all the seas of the world. Each journey inspires me to reconnect with nature and the wholesome rhythms of life, for the sea teaches the true value of our existence in this world. Tiziana: I have an open and expansive character and believe that true freedom is being able to be oneself and accepting one’s limitations and imperfections. That is why I have no secrets. I love to dare and take the risk of not pleasing everyone. In the end, what is most important is to be authentic in order to be respected, even if it means you’re not loved. The most intimate things in my life are simple, I love being with friends and sharing our emotions, I love cooking, dancing, and working out at the gym. Whenever I can, I go to the sea, even in winter. During wintertime, I actually love the sea even more and I often go for long walks by myself to recharge my body, mind, and soul. What is the inspiration behind the creation of the Tiziana Terenzi fragrances? Paolo & Tiziana: Our fragrances are more than just scents – they are journeys through personal emotions and memories. The Tiziana Terenzi collection has always been inspired by travel, emotions shared around a fire, and life experiences, all of which are embodied in the perfumes. It can represent a specific period in life when beauty delights the soul, and a moment becomes eternal. We aim to engage all the senses in an emotion, so that the experience becomes a moment in life. These universal feelings are encapsulated in fragrant journeys, preserved as perfume extract in priceless bottles. Each fragrance has a distinct image as a description, evokes a tangible emotion, and has a corresponding story. We always strive for coherence, as the story of the fragrance should mirror the character of the perfume as well as its aesthetic presentation. As a designer, Tiziana is inspired by the idea of conveying emotions with an authentic character that resonates with all our senses. For example, the Sea Star Collection was created as a precious and powerful gift from Tiziana for Paolo’s 50th birthday. The intensity and spirit of the sea’s blue depths are captured in this collection,

dedicated to preserving memories for future generations on a never-ending journey of discovery and wonder. The bottles of the Sea Star Collection are the most precious and iconic bottles of our entire collection. Inspired by the sea and the art of seafaring, they are crafted with respect, loyalty, and wisdom, and exude impetus, courage, vision, tenacity, freedom, and infinite love. Eager to discover, imagine dipping your hand into the crystal-clear water where a giant golden starfish has wrapped itself around the cork of a precious bottle, a bottle that contains one of the most valuable and rare essences in the Tiziana Terenzi Collection. The bottles from this collection are a visual delight, and their contents promise a sensory journey that envelops your entire being, speaking gently to your innermost self. What was the logo inspired by? Tiziana: The logo is an antique family herald in gold relief with the elegant features of typical jewellery from Italy. My initials TT are engraved in the centre and sublimated in fire. The herald symbolizes beauty, representing the joyous spirituality of life. INTERVIEW

"A WORK OF ART DOES NOT ACCEPT COMPROMISES" How does Tiziana Terenzi seamlessly weave together jewellery and fragrance design in the creative process? Tiziana: In the creative process of Tiziana Terenzi, the fusion of jewellery and fragrance design is deeply personal and intrinsic to my artistic vision. My initial journey into the world of jewelry design profoundly influences my approach to fragrance creation. Fragrance bottles, to me, are as precious as jewellery. They evoke

photography TIZIANA TERENZI instagram @TIZIANATERENZI.OFFICIAL website TIZIANATERENZI.COM

Is it true that you only work with natural ingredients? Why is that, and how does it impact your fragrance creation? Paolo: My favourite ingredient is nature and I incorporate it in all my creations! We utilise premium natural ingredients, a distinctive feature that sets our fragrances apart as ‘non-commercial’. In fact, we cannot manage production following the rules of the market, but we have to abide by the rules of availability of ingredients, which is affected by the weather and seasons. I would traverse any distance if it meant discovering a new precious ingredient to further enrich our creations. The world itself becomes an invaluable source of unique raw materials. I am used to travelling with the aim of finding the best farmers in the world and checking all the extraction details personally: I went to Laos for the best oud and all the way to the Indian Ocean for ambergris. These journeys compelled me to pen down my experiences, as if my senses were overflowing with the sheer magnitude of wondrous events. As a child, I always linked the sense of smell to my memories, trying to use smells rather than words to tell the story of an emotion, a place, or an encounter. Now that I have travelled all over the world, my ‘emotional library’ contains thousands of olfactory creations and memories, unforgettable moments of an extraordinary life and a journey that is far from over.

One of the most eye-catching features of the fragrances are the designs of the flacons, which vary per collection. What inspired this choice and how do the shapes align with the collections? Tiziana: In our creations, every detail holds significance, leaving nothing to chance. It’s not just about the bottle or the box: every component, even the seemingly inconspicuous ones, matters. The pump mechanism, for instance, is selected with the utmost attention and dedication, because a work of art does not accept compromises. As mentioned earlier, we always strive for coherence, as the story of the fragrance should mirror the character of the perfume as well as its aesthetic presentation. From the bottle and cap to the packaging, every element that makes up the perfume and its presentation must harmoniously represent the fragrance. Our research always revolves around all four senses – what we look at, touch, listen to, and smell must be coherent messages that fully engage us in a story and transform it into an experience, which becomes a moment of life.

emotions and memories, so I craft ornate bottle designs as art. My fusion of jewellery and fragrance design aims to offer a complete luxury experience, merging sensory allure with visual elegance, resulting in fragrances that enchant the nose as well as delight the eye. What is the inspiration behind the two new novelties Rivèa and Torpè? Paolo and Tiziana: Our new creation Rivèa was inspired by a trip to the Ligurian Riviera. We were captivated by a place of natural beauty that combines the elegance and uniqueness of Italian style: Portofino. Rivèa is the fragrance that captures the soul of Portofino, giving the wearer the energy, elegance, and beauty of this enchanting destination. La Dolce Vita in a drop of perfume. Torpè was inspired by the memory of a trip we took to Saint-Tropez, during the golden age of life on the Côte d’Azur in the 1960s, when the Italian playboys, known as Les Italiens, conquered the Riviera. Torpè captures the vibrant and lush essence of the Mediterranean coast.

What are your future aspirations for Tiziana Terenzi? Paolo & Tiziana: The perfumery market has undergone an enormous transformation over the past 50 years. In the late 1950s, perfumes were symbols of elegance, meant for grand occasions and important ceremonies. With the arrival of major commercial brands and the expansion of these giants, perfume transitioned from an art form to a commercial product influenced by trends and marketing, categorising scents by gender and prioritising profits over craftsmanship. The fragrance industry is rapidly expanding, prioritising mass production and industry needs over artistic creativity and research, transforming scent from a hallmark of style into a mere fashion accessory. Fortunately, there have been some changes in recent years as discerning customers started seeking unique fragrances that reflect their personal style, and (re)discovered artistic perfumery. Thanks to this, we have been expanding our network around the world over the past ten years. We transitioned from small stores in Italy with fewer than a hundred customers to large and iconic department stores all across the globe. While our journey has been incredible, we remain committed to preserving our artisanal heritage and upholding the artistic integrity of our creations. The brand has grown tremendously, and we are very grateful for the warm welcome we received in the most beautiful and prestigious locations around the world. The future of Tiziana Terenzi is firmly rooted in the past and we will stay true to ourselves and our original concept. We are looking forward to the future, in which we will continuously strive to improve ourselves!

INTERVIEW

ALL I WANT FOR XMAS IS OUD Infused with the finest natural oud oil from

around the globe, this potent blend exudes an air of royalty, empowering you to embrace and achieve unparalleled greatness in the year ahead. Oud for Greatness by Initio Parfums Privés, eau de parfum 90 ml €295

A NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION

BEST

Meaning ‘alive’ in Latin, Vivo lives up to

S(M)ELLERS

its name by exuding an aura of sensuality and refinement with rose, exotic saffron, cashmere wood, and vanilla. Vivo by Cupid Perfumes, eau de parfum 100 ml €279

Enchanting scents ensuring you’re both captivating and winter-ready. Let the fragrance speak, not

CRISP AS SNOW

WINTER WONDERLAND

A classic fougère as gift inspiration

Imagine the snowflakes rhythmically whirling

for the elegant gentleman (and

around you in the cedar forests of the Atlas

woman) ever since its launch in

Mountains. An enthralling duet of magical cedar

1985. Green Irish Tweed by Creed, eau

and touches of violet. Traversée by L’Arc Parfums,

de parfum 100 ml €265

eau de parfum 100 ml €190

DANGEROUSLY CHARMING

An icon of grace with Turkish rose, patchouli, and sandalwood. Consider perfume a portrait of its

wearer: the melody of her voice, the depth of her gaze – a silhouette of elegance. Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle, eau de parfum 50 ml €235

INSPIRATION

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

words!

ATELIER DES ORS:

GOLDEN ARTISTRY Renowned for expertly blending craftsmanship, artistry, haute parfumerie, and a touch of gold, Atelier Des Ors fragrances never fail to captivate. This year, the perfumery sparkles more than ever before, as it unveils its three all-time bestsellers as exclusive end-of-the-year limited editions, featuring 22-carat liquid gold as a special Art Deco pattern on the flacon.

ounded in 2015, Atelier Des Ors is nestled in the historic Villa Primerose in Grasse, a location steeped in history since 1886. The driving force behind this brand is a dynamic duo: Jean-Philippe Clermont, an ardent art connoisseur with a lifelong olfactory passion, and perfumer Marie Salamagne, whose artistic flair infuses every Atelier Des Ors fragrances. Together, they elevated the brand to new heights. Their vision is one of extraordinary uniqueness and enchanting allure, represented by their emblem: the seahorse, also known as the hippocampus. The small marine creature is a captivating figure that is known in Greek mythology to embody both familiarity and foreignness at the same time. In addition to being the term for a seahorse, ‘hippocampus’ also stands as one of the most crucial components of the human brain, responsible for preserving memories associated with colours, scents, and emotions. Among these, the olfactory memory is the most powerful and mysterious of all.

STEEPED IN GOLD

website ATELIERDESORS.COM instagram @ATELIERDESORS

In each Atelier Des Ors fragrance, 24-carat gold leaves gracefully float through the liquid like precious stardust. Believed to have celestial origins, the delicate and revered gold represents a promise of eternal elegance and constant fascination. The flacons that hold these precious scents are true masterpieces, seamlessly blending contemporary design with the magnificence and allure of perfume bottles from the Art Deco era. The back of the glass bottles is adorned with unique rays, a symbol of light, radiance, and the sillage left in the wake of each spray. And atop these bottles, a seahorse stands as the hallmark of artistry and craftsmanship that defines the essence of Atelier Des Ors.

NEW LIMITED EDITIONS

Bottling the spirit of the festive season, Atelier Des Ors now reveals its three coveted bestsellers – Lune Féline, Rose Omeyyade, and Nuda Veritas – as limited editions. Gilded by artisans with incredible know-how, the flacons are transformed into timeless treasures. These objets d’art pay homage to the Roaring Twenties, showcasing a unique Art Deco pattern of 22-carat liquid gold. The precision of the geometric lines and shapes exemplifies the unwavering commitment to exceptional craftsmanship that Atelier Des Ors is known for. The challenging and intricate artistry, skillfully crafted by the hands of meticulous master gilders demands countless hours of painstaking work. These bottles are more than just vessels; they evolve into cherished heirlooms, adding enduring value to your fragrance collection. Eager to secure one of these extraordinary, limited editions? As stocks are limited – and time is of the essence – act quickly, before this opportunity slips through your fingers! ARTS & CRAFTSMANSHIP

NOSY ’BOUT AN AMBERLIEVABLE STORY

Navigating the world of fragrance ingredients can be a bit confusing at times, especially when it comes to fragrance ingredients that bear strikingly similar names. From the niche perfume community we heard this is mostly the case for ingredients such as ambergris, amber, ambroxan, and ambrette. While being part of the same olfactory family called amber, these ingredients each have their own distinct characteristics and olfactive profiles. So, what exactly is the difference between these ambergris, amber, ambroxan, and ambrette?

Ever heard of a fragrance ingredient that is derived from whales? Discover ambergris, a waxy substance formed in the digestive system of sperm whales. How exactly this ingredient is created remains a mystery to this day. However, it’s believed to be a protective substance that protects the whales’ intestines against irritations caused by eating squid beaks and cuttlefish. As the sperm whale’s intestinal capacity can only handle smaller quantities of ambergris, the marine mammals presumably reject the larger pieces. The result? These pieces of ambergris then float in the sea and eventually wash up on coastlines. When fresh, ambergris has a soft and waxy texture, ranging from a blackish brown to a greyish colour. Due to its exposure to saltwater and sunlight, over time, the colour, texture, and scent can gradually change. This process of ageing and weathering turns ambergris into a solid, white-coloured mass with a more enhanced fragrance, making it even more rare and high-value in the perfume industry. A kilo of ambergris is estimated to be worth around €37.000. While ambergris shares some warm, sensual, and sweet characteristics with amber, it distinguishes itself through its musky, animalic, and marine notes. As a perfume ingredient, it has a characteristic sweet and earthy scent and an exceptional ability to stabilise and prolong the scent of other perfume ingredients. This is why ambergris most often serves as a base note in perfumes, adding depth, complexity, and longevity. Due to environmental concerns, the trade in natural ambergris is strictly regulated nowadays. This has limited the availability of this precious ingredient even more, leading to the development and use of synthetic alternatives.

photography BART

NOTES

AMBERGRIS

AMBER

Many people know amber as the precious gemstone. And while the fragrance note amber evokes a warm and slightly resinous scent reminiscent of this gemstone, it doesn’t originate from the gemstone itself. Instead, it’s a so-called fantasy fragrance note, carefully crafted using a blend of various natural and synthetic ingredients as an alternative to ambergris. The exact formula for amber can vary widely among perfumers and fragrance houses. This often makes it a challenging fragrance note to tell apart in a composition, as its smell can differ significantly. As the name already implies, this fragrance note was one of the key inspirations behind the fragrance family known as amber. The complex blend typically includes ingredients like vanilla, benzoin, and labdanum, but can also include tonka bean for a sweeter, almond-like scent, patchouli for an earthy and woody undertone, or frankincense for a resinous touch. Generally, amber has a unique olfactory character with a warm, resinous, sensual, sweet, and woody scent. It’s a remarkably versatile fragrance note that blends seamlessly with an array of other ingredients to add depth, warmth, and comfort. This is also why amber notes mostly serve as a base note in some of the finest winter perfumes! As the name already implies, this fragrance note was one of the key inspirations behind the fragrance family known as amber.

AMBROXAN

One of the most renowned and widely used synthetic alternatives to ambergris is ambroxan. It closely resembles the qualities of ambergris, mirroring its warm, woody, and subtly sweet scent. Much like ambergris, ambroxan possesses a versatile character, matching smoothly with an extensive range of fragrance notes, while enhancing the fragrance’s longevity and strength. To capture the essence of ambergris, ambroxan is made from the natural precursor ambrein. This extraordinary component is responsible for the unique aroma of ambergris. Although ambrein can also be found in whale secretions, it is primarily sourced from specific plants, such as the clary sage plant. The extraction involves a series of chemical processes, including oxidation, to reshape its molecular structure. The resulting compound is then purified, after which the desired aroma chemical ambroxan is isolated. DISCOVER

In its pure form, ambroxan looks like a crystalline substance, ranging from white or pale yellow crystals to a powder. As with amber, ambroxan’s formula can vary among fragrance companies and is often customised to fit the character of a particular fragrance. Thanks to its synthetic nature, which means it doesn’t require the exploitation of natural resources, ambroxan offers a sustainable alternative to ambergris. This also assures consistency and exceptional quality in comparison to natural ambergris, which can fluctuate in quality, aroma, and availability. Moreover, as producing synthetic ambergris costs approximately 100 times less than sourcing and processing its natural counterpart, it’s a much more cost-effective alternative.

AMBRETTE

Ambrette is primarily derived from the Hibiscus Abelmoschus, a plant that grows in Asia. This botanical marvel, which is used to produce soft fragrance notes, is renowned for its small, teardrop-shaped seeds with a light to darker brown colour and a slightly pointed end. The seeds are slightly oily to the touch, which is caused by the plant’s aromatic ambrettolide oil, which carries its celebrated scent. Ambrette is mostly used as a heart or base note, and in addition to it being extracted in its natural form, ambrette can also be crafted as a synthetic ingredient in a laboratory.

Although ambrette shares a lot of characteristics with the other three fragrance notes, such as its warm and sensual olfactive profile, versatile character, and power to enhance the longevity of a fragrance, it has a considerably different scent. In contrast to the other notes, ambrette exudes an aroma that combines musky, sweet, and subtle floral notes. Especially this musky facet is highly valued in the perfume industry, where it serves as a natural and ethical alternative to musk sourced from animals. For this exact reason, ambrette is one of the ingredients that aligns perfectly with the cruelty-free and sustainable movement in the perfume industry. Are there any specific ingredients you would like to learn more about? Share your ideas with us at: contact@leparfummagazine.com and you might find it in our next chapter of Le Parfum haute magazine!

IT’’S IN THE IT

Based on their scent characteristics, every fragrance is grouped into olfactory categories called ‘fragrance families’. These families serve as a useful tool for consumers to grasp a fragrance’s primary character and navigate through the universe of perfumes. In this chapter, we will be exploring three fragrance families – smoky, woody, and spicy - that perfectly complement the colder season.

SMOKY This category of fragrances is cherished for its dark, rich, and mysterious character, creating a warm and cosy fragrance that conjures images of crackling fires, smouldering embers, aromatic woods, and the gentle aroma of incense. Known for their deep, bold, and intense quality, these perfumes are often constructed in intricate layers of different notes that are blended together to create depth. This complexity is what makes them so alluring and distinctive, and therefore very popular among perfume lovers who are looking for a one-of-a-kind and memorable fragrance. While one of the most iconic notes in smoky scents is incense, there are many other intriguing notes in this category, such as tobacco, spices, wood, leather, vetiver, and resins like myrrh and benzoin. Every single note imbues the perfume with a unique twist, whether it is smouldering, resinous, sophisticated, spicy, or earthy. They perfectly complement your winter wardrobe, bringing warmth and elegance to those crisp winter months. photography HANS ISAACSON

FAMILY

SMOKY RECOMMENDATIONS

1 SMOKING HOT BY KILIAN

Meet the essence of smokiness, inspired by the ambiance of

European clubs and Eastern hookah lounges. Once applied, this rulebreaker is the epitome of temptation in its purest form, destined to leave you smelling smoking hot. It keeps you hooked with its forbidden fruit – combining the apple hookah flavour with cinnamon bark, smouldering Kentucky tobacco, oakmoss, bourbon vanilla, and balsamic tones.

BROKEN THEORIES BY KEROSENE

Broken Theories tells an aromatic tale of what unfolds after

nightfall, just as the final rays of moonlight disappear behind looming dark clouds, and smoky dreams come knocking on your door. The fragrance unfolds as a journey of smoky notes, complemented by blood orange, tobacco, and a comforting vanilla bean, sandalwood, and oud to soothe the mind.

MISTPOUFFER BY STORA SKUGGAN

Inspired by the natural ‘mistpouffer’ phenomenon – an unidentified sound resembling a distant cannon fire, seemingly emerging from the mist over vast lakes and rivers – this fragrance is characterised by a foggy and smoky composition with green and aromatic notes, and as elusive and mystical as the infamous sound.

FANTOMAS BY NASOMATTO

An unpredictable scent filled with olfactory illusions; wearing it feels almost criminal… Drawing inspiration from the most notorious crime scenes, Fantomas presents a bold and mysterious fragrance, intertwining ‘suspicious’ smoky and sweet notes that continually evolve, eluding easy definition and shaking you off its trail. Are you brave enough to explore this fragrance?

INSPIRATION

SPICY To add a little heat to your fragrance collection this season, the spicy fragrance family is where you should look. This category boasts diversity and allure, exuding warmth, sensuality, and a hint of fiery intensity to spice things up! Spicy fragrances, with their varying degrees of boldness and complexity, cater to various tastes, whether you prefer fierceness or gravitate more towards cosiness. They shine in colder seasons like autumn and winter, but when blended with lighter notes such as citrus or floral ingredients, they are also well-suited for the warmer spring and summer months. Owing to their allure, they are ideal for evening wear and special occasions, ensuring a lasting and memorable impression.

photography ARCHIVES BY TAMIL, LAURA C

Well-known fragrance notes in this family include cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, clove, pimento (allspice), and pepper. Although not as common, spicy fragrances command attention with their distinctive presence, setting a bold tone in any gathering.

SPICY RECOMMENDATIONS

1 IMMORTELLE BY MANOS GERAKINIS

The ever-cherished immortelle flower, which has been

growing wild in Greece for thousands of years, takes the spotlight in this scent. The floral note is embraced by sweet, spicy, and resinous undertones, creating a sensory celebration with a delectable gourmand halo. Unveiling notes of brown sugar, milk, clove, cinnamon, sandalwood, and patchouli, Immortelle is sure to evoke the holiday spirit.

901 BY BON PARFUMEUR

An intense and sensual burst of energy and spices in a flacon! 901 awakens you with vibrant notes of ginger and grapefruit,

followed by a spicy medley of nutmeg and black pepper, and a sweet finishing touch of creamy vanilla, almond, patchouli, and soft musk.

INNA BY BELLEKIN

Centred around jasmine, symbolising the ‘gift of god’ in Persian culture, Inna honours the nurturing essence of sisterhood and the resilience of family ties. This scent harmoniously blends the gentle and intense notes of saffron, enriched with undertones of amberwood, to envelop you in love, support, and comfort.

2 DIVINE TENTATION BY REINE DE SABA

Embark on a journey along the spice road with this exotic rum essence that flows as smoothly as a fine liqueur. The blend combines the richness of rum with sweet fig leaf, spicy clove oil, Sri Lankan cinnamon, balsam of Peru, guaiac wood, amber, vanilla, and patchouli, culminating in a seductive sillage of royal splendour.

INSPIRATION

As the name suggests, the woody fragrance family primarily features different types of wood, evoking the earthy aromas of serene forests or freshly cut lumber. The fragrance family offers a diverse range of notes, from light and creamy to dry and smoky, making them very versatile for various occasions and seasons. When applied, they provide a calming and sophisticated aura, embracing your skin like the gentle caress of a soft cashmere sweater! With a history spanning centuries, woody fragrances are known for their timeless elegance and classic, natural aroma. Prominent woody notes include cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, agarwood, oakmoss, and vetiver. These notes are often used as base notes due to their impressive longevity and ability to establish a firm fragrance foundation. Additionally, they harmonise effortlessly with other fragrance families, such as spicy, citrus, or floral, resulting in intricate and well-balanced compositions.

photography DEGLEEX GANZORIG

WOODY

WOODY RECOMMENDATIONS

1 OUD REPUBLIC BY PANA DORA

Once upon a cold Swedish winter night, perfumer Ibrahim Al Zoabi found himself nestled by the fireplace, reading an ancient mythical story. It was in this moment that he was inspired to create an unforgettable and comforting fragrance aimed at reducing stress, rekindling inner piece,

and releasing happiness-inducing hormones.

AGNETA BY EIGHT & BOB

Oud wood is the star of this creation: a material highly

valued for its scarcity as well as its long evolution process. Did you know that it takes more than 75 years for oud resin to ripen? The fragrance composition carries you away to the wooden deck of Agneta, Gianni Agnelli’s sailing boat. A nostalgic fragrance for your wish list!

TABANA BY SPIRIT OF KINGS

Created by Christian Provenzano, Tabana is a robust woody and leathery fragrance filled with surprises! Starting with an untraditional top of oud infused with zesty and spicy notes, it follows an extraordinary olfactory path leading to leathery tones and balsamic notes, topped off with a smoky amber.

ESPÍRITU BY HOUSE OF BŌ

This powerful fragrance bōmb features prominent oakwood and leather notes, intricately woven into a passionate floralmusk symphony, created using sustainable green science and natural vegan essences. But that’s not all: the flacon is adorned with a stunning hand-sculpted cap of travertine marble stone, made by local Mexican artisans.

INSPIRATION

A MELODY OF

SCENTS Coming from a family with roots in the world of fragrance, senior perfumer Vincent Ricord was introduced to the profession at a young age. Now, more than 25 years later, he has a wealth of experience and a portfolio of many incredible scents. In this interview, we delve into the captivating tale of his journey, exploring his career and the passions, ambitions, and future perspectives that have shaped his life.

rom an early age, you’ve had an unwavering passion for music and art. Could you share more about your childhood and how these interests developed? When I was younger, school was not exactly my favourite place. Primarily due to my dyslexia, which took a lot of time to improve. Fortunately, I have always been very curious of mind. I found solace and inspiration in drawing, painting, and listening to music. Back then I was living in Nice, a city brimming with modern art influences. It was the home of luminaries such as Yves Klein, who not only grew up there but also performed there. Near Cannes, there was also the influence of Picasso. Although it didn’t lead me towards a career in arts, it undeniably infused my daily life when I was young.

You were born in a family with roots in the perfume industry. Did your family and their work spark your interest in perfumery? Growing up, my family was very involved in the perfume industry. Some worked on the commercial side, while others were perfumers. I have vivid memories of my weekend visits, fascinated by their discussions, fancy attire, and globe-trotting adventures. One cousin who was a perfumer at the time, even travelled to Japan for work during the late 80s or early 90s, which was very rare and left me in awe as a child. Out of curiosity, I asked my cousin to let me join him for a week in the laboratory for an internship. Stepping into that laboratory with countless bottles everywhere with very strange names, I felt an unexpected sense of comfort. It was reminiscent of the chaos my dyslexia often brought to my mind. In a way, that complex laboratory felt familiar to me. After just one week of witnessing the art of crafting formulas and exploring different fragrance notes, I didn’t want to go back to school again. INTERVIEW

Do you still remember the first fragrance you ever created? At the time, I was really invested in becoming the new Ernest Beaux, the renowned French perfumer who created the iconic Chanel No. 5. My technique was to write down all the materials that I thought smelled nice, such as ylang-ylang and sandalwood. On paper, it had to be a success. Everything smelled so nice, right? However, when I mixed them all together it smelled so… boring. It taught me a valuable lesson: just as a story needs unexpected twists to be captivating, a fragrance requires an element of surprise, a certain unexpected flow in ingredients. I began to appreciate the fragrance materials with distinctive, sharp signatures, even if they initially seemed a bit unpleasant to me. Crafting fragrances, I realised, is an ongoing journey of learning and growth. Twenty-five years later, I’m still grateful for the opportunities I’ve had, because I remember the time I was dreaming about an opportunity like this. Each new project makes me feel young.

to me is like composing music. It has to have a memorable ‘hook’ that lingers in the mind. I ask myself: if you were able to whistle it in a song, how would it sound? And what can I do to make that sound ‘stick’ with you? Who would you say is your favourite musician? While I don’t have a favourite musician, I am a big admirer of jazz. If I had to name one artist that inspired me immensely, I would say it is Miles Davis. He kind of invented jazz in his early years and reshaped it. He started with allowing the notes to resonate longer in the composition, so the textures of the instruments in the atmosphere were more evident. And once that type of jazz became popular, he unexpectedly changed his music. His music changed repeatedly, the jazz evolving with every step. This ability to embrace change while never losing his distinct style and personality really appealed to me as a perfumer. Like Miles Davis, I aim to maintain a signature while constantly exploring new avenues. Just because one kind of lavender fragrance became a success, doesn’t mean that every other type of lavender fragrance should be the same, right?

"FRAGRANCE CREATION TO ME IS LIKE COMPOSING MUSIC"

Your love for music and art still fuels your creation process when crafting a fragrance, taking inspiration from songs, rhythms, colours, or artists. We even heard that you also compose your fragrances much like you would compose a song. Could you tell us more about this? When crafting a fragrance, I begin by envisioning its name as a promise to visualise what I want the fragrance to be like. I seek inspiration in experiences that resonate with my idea for the fragrance, to speak to my imagination. To set the mood, I then listen to music such as jazz or hiphop, anything that matches the fragrance and the mood I’m going for. The composition must be as enchanting to the nose as a catchy song is to the ear. Fragrance creation 48

You recently started working as Senior Perfumer at TechnicoFlor Parfums. What inspired you to make this change, and how are you enjoying your work at this company so far? I learned my job as a perfumer in the South of France and I think I have missed this southern French approach of perfumery. Therefore, joining TechnicoFlor which is

beautiful memories in an instant. My history is more vividly mapped through scents than through my eyes and ears. An odour like leather and petrol can swiftly and precisely evoke past places and memories unlike any picture or record.

a fantastic family-owned business founded by perfumer François-Patrick Sabater, has been a great match for me. I’m currently based in Paris, where I can collaborate with a talented team of evaluators, marketeers, and dedicated perfumers like Romain Keller and Bertrand Duchaufour. The creative atmosphere is inspiring to me and I’m very happy to be working here.

instagram @VINCENTRICORDPERFUMER

One of the brands you have worked with a lot is HFC Paris, for which you have created multiple collections, among which the Original Collection and the Black Collection. What do you love the most about this brand? Working with HFC Paris is always challenging, which I like. They rely on my expertise, which allows me to use a wide range of ingredients without budget constraints to craft truly unique fragrances. Our collaborations also involve other talented artists, which creates a very friendly but competitive environment. For me, it’s that synergy of different artists that I enjoy so much. Your fragrance portfolio has broadened a lot over the years and you have truly established yourself as a perfumer. Is there an ingredient or accord that’s still on your wish list to create a fragrance with? There are many accords that I’d like to create still, but one that stands out is linked to my childhood. I grew up in a garage near Grasse, surrounded by the captivating scents of vintage Italian cars my dad restored, like the old Alfa Romeos, Ferraris, and Maseratis from the 50s. I remember the smell of leather interiors and petrol like it was yesterday, which brings me back to the most

What are some of your future challenges? The future of fragrance creation faces a lot of challenges in terms of creativity and environmental consciousness. Unlike painting, which has centuries of history, fragrance composition is relatively new but becoming more challenging as we seek unique scents. Additionally, we also have to face environmental concerns that demand transparency and innovative approaches, challenging the way we work and think during the fragrance creation process. However, every time we are challenged, we also discover opportunities for new creative horizons. Take for instance TechnicoFlor Florindex®, a new and unique tool that we have developed to help perfumers compose more sustainable fragrances. This tool calculates the impact of a fragrance by taking all its aspects into account, such as raw materials, the process of creation, energy, and biodegradability. Are there any exciting projects coming up in the near future that you can tell us something about? Luckily, I have numerous ongoing projects, especially since I recently joined a new company. The start is always challenging, but I’m also excited! One of my current projects involves developing upcoming fragrances with Welton London. While I can’t share any further details as they haven’t been launched yet, I cherish this phase where they are still somewhat my creations before they are released to the world!

INTERVIEW

L’ART & LA MATIÈRE THE NEW EXTRAITS

THE ULTIMATE SYMBOL

OF ALLURE When it comes to ground-breaking luxury perfume creations, Clic-Clac by Maison Henry Jacques is an undeniable frontrunner. Encased in a dazzling avant-garde case designed to effortlessly fit in your pocket, this olfactory masterpiece rekindles the essence of solid perfumes – breathing new life into this art form.

he French Maison Henry Jacques has earned a distinguished reputation for crafting fine fragrances for over half a century. Rooted in a relentless commitment to innovation and fuelled by an unwavering passion, the Maison continues to redefine the boundaries of perfumery. Clic-Clac, introduced in 2021, was inspired by the rich history of solid perfume and the desire to revive this age-old fragrant tradition. The olfactory gem is a new interpretation of the House’s 50 most-loved perfumes from the collection Les Classiques. Alongside the collection’s essences and mists, this solid perfume forms the final missing piece in the captivating Henry Jacques trilogy. The sophisticated Clic-Clac accessory can hold any of the 50 Les Classiques scents that come in the form of interchangeable solid perfume capsules, crafted with an alcohol-free and almost all natural base. More than just an accessory, Clic-Clac embodies allure, providing

a delightful fragrance companion for your everyday adventures. Despite the perfume capsules’ compact size, Les Classiques’ olfactory potency remains unyielding, offering an alluring and enduring scent experience with just a touch to the skin.

JEWEL OF ENGINEERING

photography HENRY JACQUES website PARFUMSHENRYJACQUES.COM instagram @HENRYJACQUESPARFUMS

Renowned for its exceptional engineering, Clic-Clac is a brilliant example of Swiss craftsmanship. Its captivating, patented case was designed to be a stylish and indispensable daily accessory, as well as a lucky charm. With a swift ‘clic’sound, the case gracefully opens and reveals the sensual and smooth solid perfume – after which it closes with a satisfying ‘clac’. This flawless and seamless motion is achieved through a distinctive opening mechanism, a feat of technical brilliance inspired by Swiss haute horlogerie. The luxurious solid perfume case is a companion for life, expertly crafted with precious materials ranging from rose gold, carbon, and titanium to exquisite gem variations. With its ultra-luxury and contemporary appearance, ClicClac radiates an air of poise and elegance. While this exceptional fragrance gadget undoubtedly exudes opulence, its price tag is equally noteworthy – starting from €28.000. For those who wish to acquire this exquisite masterpiece, it can be explored and purchased by appointment in any of the ten Henry Jacques boutiques worldwide.

"CLIC-CLAC IS OUR ANSWER TO REDEFINING PERFUMERY AND ANCIENT TRADITIONS, TRANSPORTING THEM INTO MODERN DAY LIVING, ALL THE WHILE BEING PLAYFUL" – Anne-Lise Cremona, CEO of Henry Jacques

NEW: LIMITED EDITION

At the end of this year, Henry Jacques is introducing an exciting new limited edition of Clic-Clac in collaboration with professional tennis player Rafael Nadal and his wife Maria Perello. This creation serves as a heartfelt tribute to the special friendship between Henry Jacques and Rafael Nadal and enables Rafael to carry and wear his cherished scents during training, championships, and at any other occasion. Drawing inspiration from the couple’s Mediterranean home, a trio of solid perfumes have been meticulously crafted: Rafael Nadal N°1, Rafael Nadal N°2, and Maria Perello’s scent. Each of these perfumes is created with carefully selected fragrance notes that hold personal significance for the couple, including bergamot, orange blossom, thyme, jasmine, and lavender. The Clic-Clac Rafael Nadal Edition is created with grade 5 titanium and fashioned to be reminiscent of a tennis ball adorned with an extraordinary neon yellow line. TOP NOTCH

MAISON CRIVELLI:

AN ODYSSEY OF

ADVENTURE Born from the captivating encounters with perfume ingredients, Maison Crivelli embodies the essence of adventure – much like its founder, Thibaud Crivelli. With a fascination for the wonders of nature, an evercurious spirit, and an insatiable wanderlust, Thibaud’s journey converged into the remarkable odyssey that is Maison Crivelli. Now his olfactory voyage is carried to new heights, unveiling an extraordinary novelty to sweep you away on yet another new olfactory expedition.

aison Crivelli was founded in 2018, fulfilling Thibaud Crivelli’s lifelong dream to establish a perfume house. Raised in a family of scientists and entrepreneurs, his fascination for fragrances was born and, along with it, a thirst for adventure. This trait ran through the veins of his family for over 150 years, who were renowned for venturing far from the conventional and moving across multiple continents – from the exotic landscapes of Lebanon to the vast terrains of Australia, the vibrant markets of Morocco, and the lush fields of Vietnam. His passion for exploring different cultures and influences led Thibaud to Asia, where he spent over 10 years in various countries, uncovering a plethora of perfume ingredients amidst the bustling markets and fields. Thibaud has always had an affinity for nature and when stumbling upon plantations of raw materials for perfumery, his senses were stirred with wonder. Inspired by these unexpected encounters that would later infuse his creations, the seeds of Maison Crivelli’s olfactory journey were sown. BEHIND THE SCENTS

SURPRISING SENSATIONS

The fragrances of Maison Crivelli are crafted with a philosophy that’s rooted in the power of surprise. After all, unexpected moments can etch stronger memories, which might enhance our sense of happiness. The essence of Maison Crivelli is not only confined to creating enchanting fragrance compositions, but also extends to the olfactory storytelling of Thibaud’s encounters, experiences, and moments in intricate detail. His creations vividly transport the wearer to the very sensations that lie at the heart of the creation, whether it’s the taste of hibiscus tea amidst a gemstone market, the smell of scorched sandalwood on the slopes of an erupting volcano, or a tranquil stroll through rose fields along the seaside. Take Santal Volcanique, for example. While sandalwood is typically used as a creamy fragrance note, this perfume reveals a different side to this ingredient: a burnt sandalwood texture intertwined with a hint of spicy coffee. The collection ranges from eau de parfums to extrait de parfums, enveloped by luxurious flacons and eco-friendly packaging. Each of these fragrances are exceptional olfactory memories, crafted in collaboration with a diverse array of perfumers. This signature approach is what defines Maison Crivelli – a commitment to the distinct and unique creative direction of each perfume, ensuring that surprise remains at the core of every creation.

NEW: OUD MARACUJÁ

There’s exciting news, for Maison Crivelli now marks its fourth extrait de parfum Oud Maracujá, in collaboration with perfumer Jodi Fernandez! Inspired by Thibaud’s initial encounter with the charming scent of oud, a

cornerstone of haute parfumerie, this perfume presents a unique twist on the traditional fragrance note. The creation daringly challenges its depth and elegance with a bright and fruity accord, resulting in a charismatic and bold fragrance that’s unlike any other. Upon first spray, the fragrance bursts to life with an accord of passion fruit and blackcurrant, tinged with saffron for a spicy allure, and an enchanting Turkish rose absolute. The heart of Oud Maracujá is dominated by the robust oud accord, elevated by the earthy nuances of Indonesian patchouli, and a soothing embrace of benzoin from Laos. The base unfolds with an elegant combination of incense, leather, amber, vanilla, and a labdanum accord, along with a subtle hint of akigalawood, leading to a symphony of olfactory surprises…

Q&A WITH THIBAUD CRIVELLI

photography MAISON CRIVELLI website MAISONCRIVELLI.COM instagram @MAISONCRIVELLI

The collection of Maison Crivelli is very diverse, with each fragrance revealing a unique scent that has captivated you upon discovery. How do you select a specific scent for your next fragrance? Our creation process has two aspects: a creative and a commercial aspect. The creative part is rooted in our brand’s vision that life is a sensory adventure. Each perfume tells a unique story of an unexpected adventure in which I discovered a certain fragrance ingredient in a surprising way. On the commercial side, we aim to offer a diverse and globally appealing range of fragrances, each with a different character. We always carefully map out our entire collection to find the gaps, after which I delve into my personal memories to translate them into a fragrance. Initially before the creation of Oud Maracujá, you created a mood board with inspiration for the perfumer. What value do these inspirational pieces hold for you? The mood board always holds an immense value for us and our customers. You see, when you love a perfume, it brings this personal connection that’s tough to describe in words. It’s the same as going out for dinner and getting served an amazing dish – you may know the ingredients, but have you experienced them individually? Similarly, many people haven’t smelled ingredients such as patchouli, vetiver, tuberose, or sandalwood independently. So how can they exactly understand the fragrance they are smelling? This fascinated me and led me to start interpreting scents through multiple senses, using mood boards with words, images, and even sounds. It has become an important tool for us to guide and help people to better understand their fragrances.

What was the most memorable and beautiful experience for you since you founded Maison Crivelli? I always like to say that my most striking and memorable moments are the ones I’m sharing through our fragrances. However, among our fragrances, the most unforgettable moment was the launch of Hibiscus Mahajád. It draws inspiration from tasting hibiscus tea in a gemstone market and was launched as our debut perfume extract. We have received such an overwhelmingly positive response from all over the world, that this perfume holds a special place in our collection as one of our heroes. What’s in store for Maison Crivelli in the future? There will be an expansion of our extrait de parfum collection, because many fragrance lovers are increasingly looking for longer-lasting scents and a broader diffusion in fragrances. Currently we are collaborating with Quentin Bisch on an exciting new fragrance that’s a missing piece to our collection. I can’t disclose much, but we’re hoping to launch it next year! Moreover, we are in the early stages of several other intriguing projects that we want to bring to life in the future, but in collaboration with the right artists, at the right time. BEHIND THE SCENTS

SCENT UP

YOUR HOME

When looking for the perfect scent to accessorise your home, turn to the renowned house of Welton London. Led by perfumer John-Paul Welton and his wife Aline, the house has a history of collaborating with prestigious fashion houses like Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfeld. We asked John-Paul about all the ins and outs of creating home fragrances.

elton London has a signature home fragrance collection called the Onyx Collection. How was this collection created? Our fragrances and home fragrance collection, including scented candles and diffusers, aim to whisk you away on a true olfactory journey. The starting point was to design not only objects that are visually stunning, but also create them with the finest fragrances. They should add a unique, aesthetic, and exclusive olfactory touch to your interior. The French savoir-faire is central to our collections and each product is expertly hand-crafted in France. This is also in a way a tribute to my beloved grandfather, originating from Nice, and my special bond with France. When creating a home fragrance collection, what are the specifications you must keep in mind? Our home fragrances undergo a meticulous creation process, including multiple steps in which we carefully study and test our products. To create a high-end product, we must consider various parameters during the creation process. Each scent is crafted with complex compositions to tell a unique story with rich, raw materials, and to set a distinct atmosphere. Every candle spreads a delicate scent that can be smelled whenever the candle is lit, as well as before and afterwards. To ensure this excellent diffusion, we use a 10% perfume oil concentration. Beyond this threshold, the perfume concentration does not improve the diffusion and can lead to combustion issues. The candles are designed to burn well and cleanly without smoke. For this, the diameter of the wick varies per

photography WELTON LONDON website WELTONLONDON.COM instagram @WELTONLONDON

fragrance formula and its ingredients. To find the perfect match between the fragrance and the wick diameter, each scented candle must be rigorously tested via burning tests. The container shape also plays a big role. Square containers require a rounded inner design and corners, to ensure that the candle burns evenly and facilitates the diffusion of the fragrance more evenly in all directions. You also need to take the glass thickness, height, and diameter into consideration. Depending on the size of the candle, you may need to have several wicks, positioned in a certain way to ensure the wax burns across the entire surface. How does the creation process of home fragrances differ from regular perfumes? We craft home fragrances much like we craft our perfumes, ranging from lighter to stronger scents within different olfactory families, as we want to have a diverse assortment with options for everyone to enjoy. However, each product category requires a different approach in the creation process. The primary difference lies in the testing phase. When we create a fragrance, we test the trail, how long it lasts on the skin, and its evolution over time. Meanwhile, when creating a scented candle, we test the diffusion thoroughly via several burn tests. They are also composed in a more soft, skilfully orchestrated blend of wax and fragrance oil, in which the top, heart, and base notes are less distinctly separated. One of Welton London’s best-selling perfumes, Secret Amber, is also available in the home fragrance collection. What inspired this? At first, Secret Amber was exclusively available as a scented candle and home fragrance diffuser. Inspired by a love story, our customers soon fell in love with the fragrance and its unique blend of florals and gourmand notes. Therefore, we believed it deserved a skin fragrance as well, which we launched in an eau de toilette and an eau de parfum. It is now our most popular fragrance, for which we are very grateful.

What is your secret to creating the perfect home fragrance? I would not say there is a perfect home fragrance, because everyone’s preference is different. Personally, I like to mix and match various home fragrances with the same scent within a room, using both candles and diffusers to create a cosy ambiance. I would also recommend matching different scents throughout your home, to give each room an olfactory signature. For instance, you could make your living room smell inviting and warm, your bathroom crisp and invigorating, your bedroom soft and comforting, and your kitchen fresh and uplifting. Not to forget, you can also choose a scent specifically for the holidays. To enhance the Christmas spirit, I would recommend infusing your living room with Sumptuous Spices. It boasts delicate notes of ginger, cardamom, incense, tonka bean, and coffee blossom, which are just perfect for this time of year! Explore Welton London’s universe of home fragrances at: weltonlondon.com ADVERTORIAL

Recandle your

COSY SEASON From a young age, influencer Scott McGlashan (@blublazerguy) has been intrigued by the enchanting world of scent. With a background in interior design, he has developed a deep passion for home fragrances, for which he shares his insights and tips below.

he sight of my grandmother’s ornate perfume bottles left a lasting impression on me. After getting my very first fragrance, my passion for scents ignited. This profound fascination has since inspired me to share my passion for fragrances on my platform, Blu Blazer Guy, where I discuss my latest fragrance discoveries. However, it’s not just perfumes that sparked my intrigue: home fragrances hold an equal allure. Scented candles have certainly become one of my preferred methods to imbue my home with fragrance. Much like a strategically placed accessory, home fragrances serve as the finishing flourish, infusing the air with captivating aromas, enhancing the atmosphere. They have evolved significantly, some even resembling fine fragrances with a variety of fascinating notes. With a mere flicker of a candle, you have the power to perfectly curate a room’s ambiance, effortlessly adapting it to suit the season or reflect your personality. Not just through scent but also via the vessel design, which displays your individual style and personality both aesthetically and olfactorily.

THE PERFECT MATCH

With an abundance of products on the market, selecting the right scented candle can sometimes be overwhelming. However, choosing one that matches your mood and purpose doesn’t need to be a challenge. Just think about the types of personal fragrance you like and the fragrance families you most gravitate towards. Like with perfumes, try to smell them in-store instead of buying them blindly based on a list of notes, which can be deceiving. Regardless of your choice, finding your personal favourites will bring olfactory joy to your home for months to come. My preferences for candle styles vary depending on the season. While I tend to opt for more opaque and colourful vessels in summer, I prefer clear vessels to fully embrace the warm, ambient glow in the winter! COLUMN

SCENTED CANDLE GUIDE

When first lighting that scented candle you have been dreaming about, be sure to place it in a well-ventilated area, out of the wind, on a stable and heat-resistant surface, and away from any flammable objects. Do not leave the candle burning unattended.

Every time you light a candle, allow it to burn for at least an hour until a complete layer of wax has melted. This ensures a longer burn time and prevents ‘tunneling’, which otherwise results in an uneven surface caused by an outer ring of unmelted wax that won’t burn.

Regularly trim the candle wick to about 3 to 6 mm. This prevents black soot, dark smoke, and burn spots on the gorgeous vessel, and also ensures that the candle lasts longer. For this, you can use a wick trimmer.

4 5

When you want to extinguish the flame, use a wick dipper, candle snuffer, or candle lid to protect your candle wax from getting dirty. Also make sure the wick is straight and properly centered. Retire your precious scented candle when there’s a thin layer of about 1 cm of wax left. This way, your beautiful vessel will stay undamaged, so you can clean out the last bit of wax and reuse the vessel!

Blu Blazer Guy’s FAVOURITE SCENTED CANDLES

1 LOG FIRES BY JO LOVES

Imagine a winter evening, nestled in a comfy Chesterfield chair, wrapped in a soft throw, as the distant glow of an open fire enchants the surroundings. This is exactly the atmosphere Jo Loves Log Fires captures. It subtly blends wood fire, cedar oil, guaiac wood oil, and leather, exuding

website BLUBLAZERGUY.COM instagram @BLUBLAZERGUY tiktok @_BLUBLAZERGUY

loads of cosy winter goodness!

3 AUTUMN CANDLE BY VILSHENKO

Even though the stunning ceramic Matryoshka Doll design

initially caught my attention, the fragrance inside is equally impressive. Blending blackberry, nutmeg, patchouli, jasmine, bergamot, and plum, this fragrance beautifully captures the subtle transition from summer to autumn.

ILLUMINATION CASHMERAN VELVET BY OSTENS This exquisite candle evokes a very cosy ambience with its

comforting, velvety texture and warm, spicy notes. The stunning fluted vessel also enhances the flickering flame, casting soothing light that transforms any space!

NO. 6 BY MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS

If you love leathery fragrances, this candle is for you! Because N°6 is part of a collection that rekindles the renowned signature leather essence of couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois... Once lit, it spreads fruity, spicy, and amber notes with subtle hints of wood and leather, matching perfectly with the colder season.

COLUMN

THE ART OF

EMOTIONAL

FRAGRANCE CREATION

With their power to trigger memories and emotions, transporting us back to certain times and places, scents are a valuable part of our daily lives. This phenomenon forms the cornerstone of emotional fragrance creation, the fascinating art of crafting scents that evoke feelings, memories, and experiences. Together with Fragrance Science, a leading Spanish company in fragrance creation and production, we explore the trends as well as the scientific and artistic inspirations shaping this art.

hroughout history, scents have wielded a profound influence on our emotions. Many ancient civilisations, such as the Egyptians, used essential oils for medicine, cosmetics, and even in embalming rituals. Raw materials such as flowers, scented plants, gums, and resins were also regularly used during religious ceremonies, often burnt as offerings to the gods. This practice is known as ‘Per Fumum’, a Latin phrase that means ‘through smoke’ – from which the word ‘perfume’ originates. In the realm of marketing, fragrances have consistently told captivating stories and evolved to align with wellness trends, emphasising self-care and well-being. This shift is part of the broader, continually evolving ‘emo-beauty’ movement, in which emotions profoundly influence beauty products.

THE SCIENCE OF SCENT

A fragrance can vividly transport us back in time, revealing just how intertwined our sense of smell is with our emotions. When we smell something, airborne chemical molecules reach our nose and bind to the olfactory receptors in the nasal mucosa. These receptors send signals to various parts of the brain, including the amygdala and hippocampus, which are crucial for processing emotions and memories. Research indicates that scent influences 75 percent of our daily emotions, impacting stress levels, temperament, concentration, and memory. Pleasant smells can enhance your mood by up to 40 percent. For instance, woody and musky scents can induce calmness, while floral notes like rose and jasmine are often associated with feelings of romance and happiness. A feeling of tranquillity and comfort can be evoked by using fragrance notes like sandalwood, iris concrete, and spicy notes like cinnamon. And to instantly evoke joyful memories, you Did you know that our ability to remember something we’ve previously smelled is 100 times greater than our capacity to recall something we’ve seen, heard, or touched?

can use notes like coffee, ozonic notes, or delicate musk notes. Understanding the science underlying these connections enables perfumers to manipulate emotions through fragrance composition. Emotional fragrance creation is a meticulous process combining technical expertise with intuition and creativity. Perfumers begin by selecting a theme or emotion they wish to convey into a tangible olfactory experience. This involves carefully selecting fragrance notes from a palette of natural and synthetic ingredients. These fragrance notes are categorised via the olfactory pyramid, consisting of top notes that create the initial impression, and the heart and base notes, which unfold as the fragrance evolves over time. Each note carries its own unique aroma and evokes specific emotional responses. The challenge lies in choosing the right raw materials while considering their volatility, strength, and harmony, and blending them skilfully to tell a compelling olfactory story.

THE POWER OF NOSTALGIA

Nostalgia is a particularly powerful emotion used by fragrance creators. A familiar scent can whisk us back to cherished childhood memories, a first love, or a delightful vacation. Perfumers can incorporate these nostalgic notes, such as the aroma of old books or the earthy scent of a rain-soaked forest, to evoke warmth and longing. When combined with comforting base notes like vanilla and tonka bean, as well as heart notes reminiscent of childhood – such as warm cookies or a beloved garden flower – the scent can transport you back in time and evoke a wistful longing.

CULTURAL & PERSONAL FACTORS

With the goal being customer satisfaction, it’s essential to recognise that perfume preferences are shaped by gender, age, and cultural background, underscoring the deep intertwining of fragrance creation with personal and cultural nuances. Specific scents hold unique emotional and experiential significance across different cultures. For instance, lavender might be considered a relaxing fragrance note in Europe and Brazil, but it may not have the same effect on someone in Asia. Moreover, personal memories also play a significant role, as a perfumer might draw inspiration from their own experiences or from stories shared by others to add authenticity to the fragrance. TRENDING TOPIC

Fragrances that connect emotionally aren’t limited to personal use; they’re in demand across a variety of industries. Spa resorts and wellness centres, for instance, incorporate scents to create tranquil atmospheres and induce relaxation. Retailers use fragrances to enhance the shopping experience and establish brand identity. The hospitality sector employs signature scents to leave a lasting impression on guests. This cross-industry integration highlights the universal appeal of emotional fragrances.

Toni Cabal, master perfumer and CEO of Fragrance Science

THE TRENDS OF TODAY

Fragrance Science specialises in the art of evoking emotions through scent, with applications ranging from laundry and fabric care to home care, perfumery, and personal care products. For a fragrance company, staying abreast of trends is vital to remain relevant and resonate with consumers’ constantly evolving preferences, lifestyles, and cultural shifts. One of the current and innovative trends identified by Fragrance Science is the incorporation of matcha tea. This fragrance note is often used alongside timeless and classic white flowers, osmanthus, and gourmand notes that have characterised the past decade of perfumery. Other popular base notes nowadays are musky, sandalwood, and milky notes. The industry is also steadily gravitating towards gender-neutral scents, emphasising fragrances that radiate purity, subtlety, and a soothing quality. These scents serve as a source of comfort and reassurance for consumers, providing them with a profound sense of wellbeing.

A SENSORIAL JOURNEY

A fragrance is much more than just a nic(h)e scent. It is a narrative of memories, an expression of identity, and a direct connection to our deepest emotional desires. It’s the art of crafting scents that resonate with the heart and soul – evoking a palette of emotions and taking customers on a sensorial journey they will never forget. In a world driven by technology and rapid change, the art of emotional fragrance creation reminds us of the power of sensory experiences. When designed with emotion in mind, perfumery becomes a tool of unparallelled potency.

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CROSS-INDUSTRY INTEGRATION

UNLOCK THE ESSENCE:

TUNE INTO THE AROMATALK PODCAST BY MAXAROMA FOR THE ULTIMATE FRAGRANCE EXPERIENCE

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ON THE GRAM

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UNRAVELLED:

FRAGRANCE EXTRACTION PART 1

Throughout history, nature’s enchanting fragrances have captivated our senses and inspired the creation of exquisite perfumes. To use these scents for perfumery, raw materials go through a careful process known as extraction. During this process, scented oils are extracted from these raw materials, refining them, and elevating their concentration and scent. A myriad of extraction methods are used throughout the industry, each varying slightly per manufacturing house and specifically chosen to match the characteristics of the raw materials and the desired effect. In this chapter, we will look into two specific extraction methods, steam distillation and tincture extraction, which are also used for some of the bestsmelling winter fragrance notes.

STEAM DISTILLATION

Considered one of the fundamental processes in the history of chemistry, steam distillation has always played a significant role in the extraction of essential oils and the production of fragrances and herbal remedies. It has been around for millennia and was widely practiced by various cultures. In ancient Egypt, for instance, it was used for embalming rituals to preserve the bodies of the deceased. At its core, it’s a process of gently heating plant materials with water and steam to release their aromatic compounds. The magic of this method lies in capturing and preserving the volatile molecules without subjecting them to high temperatures, which might compromise their quality or natural fragrance. Therefore, steam distillation is particularly suitable for raw materials that are heat-sensitive or delicate such as certain flowers, herbs, leaves, seeds, roots, spices, woods, citrus rinds, resins, and aromatic barks. Steam distillation is favoured for producing a diverse array of fragrances because of the precise method it uses to extract essential oils. This versatility extends beyond perfumery and finds applications in cosmetics and food flavouring as well. As it uses only water and steam as extracting agents, steam distillation is

a natural and solvent-free extraction method that ensures the retention of the raw material's therapeutic properties. Therefore, it’s an ideal choice for holistic healing practices, but also for aromatherapy and natural perfumery, where avoiding the use of chemical solvents is often preferred. Beyond its effectiveness, steam distillation is a relatively simple, accessible, and cost-effective method. Furthermore, it’s an environmentally friendly process that doesn’t involve any harmful ingredients. This method also offers essential oil producers precise control over temperature and distillation time, which can significantly optimise the quality and fragrance profile.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

The process of steam distillation starts with the placement of raw materials on a grille inside the boiler, positioned above a layer of water. When the water is heated and brought to a boil, it turns to steam. As a result of the heat, the steam ascends to the top of the boiler, passing through the raw materials and opening their cellular structure. This, in turn, causes the volatile aromatic compounds within the raw material to vaporise, leading to the suspension of oil within the steam. The mixture flows out of the boiler into a cold condenser, where the steam is rapidly cooled and condensed back into liquid. Because water and oil do not blend, the oil naturally separates itself and floats on top of the water. The resulting oil is known as essential oil, highly valued for

STEAM THROUGH RAW MATERIAL

E S S E NTI A L OIL C O NDENS ATI ON

RAW MATERIAL + WA T E R

OIL + S TEAM

OI L A ND WA T E R SEPARATED

its light, fresh, and airy attributes. The remaining water is referred to as floral water, of which the most famous variants are rose water and orange flower water. This floral water is often used to fragrance certain skincare products. An example of the essential oils obtained via steam distillation is agarwood, also known as oud. Like an ancient forest, it has a rich earthy and woody scent, accompanied by resinous and balsamic notes, along with a sweet, spicy, and smoky hint. Once extracted, the essential oil becomes highly concentrated, revealing a more pronounced aroma of deeper woody notes, heightened sweetness, and more resinous facets. Most notably, the essential oil possesses exceptional longevity. Unlike the short-lived scent of raw agarwood, it’s known to linger on the skin for hours or even days! ESCENTIALS

TINCTURE EXTRACTION

Tincture extraction is a process that involves isolating the aromatic compounds from botanical materials, such as herbs, spices, or various plant parts. This is achieved by using a solvent, which is typically alcohol or a mixture of alcohol and water. As a result, a highly concentrated liquid extract also known as a tincture is created, the history of which spans several centuries. The origin of tinctures is closely tied to the development of herbal medicine and utilisation of botanicals. Tinctures have roots dating back to the times of the ancient Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans. These cultures were known to craft tincture-like mixtures with alcohol and various botanicals, which they used for medicinal, culinary, and even religious purposes. During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance in Europe, herbal medicine flourished even more. After further developments of distillation, including alcohol distillation, extracts with higher concentrations could be made which further refined the art of tincture-making. Over time, the popularity of tinctures continued to grow. To this day – because of their concentrated nature – they remain highly valued in fields like herbal medicine, holistic health practices, natural remedies, perfumery, natural skincare, cosmetics, and culinary arts for flavour enhancement and preservation. Nowadays, tinctures are cherished for their potency, ease of use, and versatility. Tincture extraction is a versatile and easy method to isolate and utilise the beneficial and aromatic properties of botanicals, including herbs, spices, 72

roots, barks, flowers, woods, and even certain fruits. Thanks to the natural preservative qualities of alcohol, tinctures have a very long shelf life. Furthermore, tinctures allow users to easily adjust the dosage by using more or fewer drops.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Tincture extraction is a simple process to unveil active compounds hiding within a raw material and requires just two ingredients and a bit of patience. To make a tincture, you only need alcohol and the raw material, which can either be used in its whole form or can be chopped or ground to increase the surface area for a better extraction. After this, the botanical material is soaked in the alcohol to let it soften. This can be done for several weeks to several months, depending on the plant material and desired potency.

RA W M A TERI A L + S O L V ENT

Once it’s seeped in alcohol long enough, it has absorbed the aromatic compounds and the fragrance of the botanical material, forming a tincture. These tinctures are often highly concentrated and contain a wider range of compounds than essential oils, making them similar to absolutes. The traditional use of tincture extraction was for animal notes like ambergris, musk, castoreum, and civet. Nowadays, it’s used for materials like vanilla and orris, with the latter being a prime example of the effects of tincture extraction. Orris first undergoes a process to remove its roots, leaves, and flowers, followed by a drying process of at least three years. In its dried form, orris resembles a hardened, odourless stone. However, when immersed in alcohol for roughly two years, it changes into a yellowish butter known as orris butter, emitting a greasy scent with a hint of violet. Through a final treatment process, the essential oil of the orris butter is extracted. However, only when combined with other raw materials, does its enchanting soft and powdery fragrance emerge. Today, the processing of orris still relies on this ancient ritual, making it one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery.

RAW M A T E R IA L IN A L C O H O L

L EFT TO SOAK

TI NCTU RE

Did you know that one kilo of high-quality orris can cost more than €50.000, and that it takes roughly half a ton of orris root to produce around one litre of essential oil?

In this article we’ve only explained two fragrance extraction methods, but there’s a whole universe left to explore! Stay tuned for our next chapter, in which we will highlight more extraction methods. ESCENTIALS

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HOW TO MAKE YOUR HOME SMELL

SCENT-SATIONAL As a perfume aficionado, you don’t just want to smell amazing yourself but also upgrade your home with a gorgeous scent from time to time. For this, home fragrances are the way to go! They can instantly transform the atmosphere of your home, creating a warm and welcoming environment. However, it can be challenging to select the perfect home fragrance to match with your personality and place. Let us introduce you to the concept of ‘fragrance zoning’ – a technique that will help you strike that perfect olfactory balance to elevate your home.

ragrance zoning is a strategy that involves thoughtfully selecting and dispersing different home fragrances throughout your living space. Instead of relying on a single home fragrance, which can be overpowering, the strategy embraces the idea of selecting multiple home fragrances with different scents instead. Using this technique, you can curate distinctive atmospheres and achieve the desired ambiance for each space. To choose the perfect scent for each room, consider the mood you wish to create. For instance, opt for rich and warm fragrances in your living room to evoke a sense of comfort and relaxation. In the bedroom, select a delicate and cosy fragrance that promotes tranquillity and sleep. Your bathroom, on the other hand, is the perfect place to disperse a fresh fragrance, while a more vibrant citrus scent in your kitchen can complement the delicious aromas of freshly cooked meals. It’s all about personal preference and creating the ultimate sensory sanctuary in your home, one room at a time. Are you ready to explore and select your next home fragrance to turn this fabulous concept into reality? In the following pages, you’ll discover three scent categories and matching diffusers to fill your home with delightful scents.

POWER UP YOUR PERFUME

COSY & SOOTHING A cosy and soothing fragrance is ideal for creating a comforting and relaxing environment, especially in areas such as the bedroom. These types of scents can transform your room into a sanctuary, offering an escape from the pressures of everyday life. They reduce anxiety, induce relaxation, and can even enhance the quality of your sleep. With their soothing, gentle, and inviting ambiance, these fragrances establish a warm atmosphere where you can unwind after a busy day, setting the stage for a good night’s sleep. Bonne nuit! 76

Meaning ‘leather from Russia’, Cuir de Russie captures the power of scent to evoke cherished childhood memories of comfort. This fragrance was inspired by the Red Army uniform worn by the father of Le Jardin Retrouvé’s founder Yuri, which had a distinctive leather sash. Every night, as Yuri hugged his father, the rich scent of the leather belt lingered, leaving a lasting impression on his memory. This scented memory not only lives on in the form of an eau de parfum or a candle, but also as the Cuir de Russie Scented Stem Diffuser – a handmade work of art. The diffuser is encased in a white reusable Limoges porcelain pot, adorned with stunning gingko leaves and a unique perfuming stem, resembling a branch. It features notes of violet leaves, ylang-ylang, leather, and cedarwood, infusing the air with a delicate and soothing fragrance that gently encourages a peaceful night’s sleep. Crafted with slow-evaporation oil, the diffuser lasts up to three months, which is twice as long as a regular diffuser, ensuring that you can immerse yourself in a comforting scent, night after restful night. Cuir de Russie Scented Stem Diffuser by Le Jardin Retrouvé, 125 ml €100

website LEJARDINRETROUVE.COM instagram @LEJARDINRETROUVE

A SENSE OF COMFORT

website TRUDON.COM instagram @TRUDON

FRUITY & HERBAL A fruity and herbal fragrance naturally complements foodcentric spaces, such as the kitchen and dining room. These notes excel at creating a fresh and invigorating atmosphere, neutralising cooking odours. Their delectable character further enriches the dining experience by enhancing the aroma of the dishes served. Given their ability to complement a wide range of cuisines, these scents will undoubtedly elevate the dining experience in your home. Bon appétit!

YOUR CUP OF TEA

Created by Trudon, the oldest royal candlemaker in the world, Abd El Kader is a home fragrance to level up the very essence of your interior. It hails from the heart of France, is handcrafted with the iconic Trudongreen glass and adorned with a classic gold emblem to give your home a sense of heritage and timeless charm. Eight natural black rattan sticks gently release the aromatic notes, creating an ambiance reminiscent of Moroccan mint tea. Within its composition, the fragrance releases delicious green, herbal, soft floral, and fruity notes of blackcurrant bud, zesty ginger, lemon, spearmint, apple, jasmine, and vanilla. As this symphony of scents unravels, it transports you to the Mascara coast with the warm and spicy air of ginger, mingling with the alluring fragrance of tea and tobacco. A fragrant tapestry to turn your home into a haven of olfactory delight. Le Diffuseur Abd El Kader by Trudon, 350 ml €165

POWER UP YOUR PERFUME

WARM & SPICY A warm and spicy fragrance is the perfect choice for communal areas like the living room or library. It effortlessly creates an inviting atmosphere, making it ideal for relaxation or for gatherings. Especially when your décor features cooler colours, these types of fragrances act as a balancing element, infusing the atmosphere with added warmth and vibrancy. Moreover, it sets a welcoming tone in the hallway, offering a smooth transition between the different rooms in your home and a comforting, first impression for your guests. Bienvenue! 78

For modern design lovers seeking a diffuser that not only fills the air with a delightful fragrance, but also adds an artistic vibe to their interior, Graphēme’s cold diffuser is the ideal choice, as it seamlessly blends stylish home fragrance with standout aesthetics. To release the fragrance, simply use the dropper to apply the perfume extract onto the volcanic stones, which results in a gentle diffusion that lingers for several days. The protective sphere allows you to close the diffuser whenever you want, masking its scent and turning it into even more of an art piece. Handcrafted in the Graphēme workshop, this diffuser is a unique piece of work made of glass and Limoges porcelain, with signature black faceted sides for a smooth, soft matte look. For the fragrance, you can select your favourite perfume from their exclusive collection, all crafted using an abundance of natural raw materials. For this autumn and winter season, we recommend L’Attente. It diffuses a lovely spicy and woody scent, featuring notes of black fig leaf, cardamom, anise, cedarwood, and sandalwood that will transform your living room into a cosy and warm oasis. L’Attente diffuser by Graphēme including a 15 ml perfume extract dropper, €185

website GRAPHEME-PARIS.COM instagram @GRAPHEME.PARIS

FEEL AT HOME

A BOUQUET OF

INCLUSIVITY From emerging ethnic perfumers to perfume campaigns featuring LGBTQIA+ models, and brands arising from various parts of the world, the perfume industry seems to be getting more and more inclusive by the day. And we are loving it! Join us on a journey through time, to witness the evolution of inclusivity in perfumery, which has given rise to many new changes along the way. Author: Giulia D’Incecco, Product Marketing Manager at Symrise

ragrances have been around us for thousands of years. Initially reserved exclusively for rituals and religious festivities, these blends eventually evolved into fragrances embraced by a wide audience for everyday wear. The roster of perfumers who have left their mark on history is extensive. Over three millennia ago in Mesopotamia, Tapputi-Belatekallim emerged as one of the earliest known perfumers, and her legacy as a chemist and perfumer endures to this day. She was renowned for combining flowers, incense, myrrh, and balsam, resulting in a perfumed oil with a sweet fragrance that held a strong symbolic significance and was believed to attract gods. Fragrance extracts were used solely for therapeutic purposes prior to the 13th century. It wasn’t until the Renaissance that scents were used to mask unpleasant body odours. During this period, perfumes were not just luxury items but also markers that distinguished the wealthy from the poor.

Later, philosophers like Rousseau and Kant suggested that our sense of smell isn’t merely tied to basic instincts or concerns about hygiene. To them, it was a deep reflection of a person’s identity, having profound emotional implications. Eventually, the French Revolution and the industrialisation in the 19th century opened the door to the perfumery market.

GENDER AND FRAGRANCES

Brands rapidly ventured into the world of fragrances, crafting scents for every age and gender. Initially, the primary emphasis was on women, resulting in bestselling perfumes marked by soft floral notes. Recognising the gap, the industry then turned its attention to creating fragrances for men as well, marked by robust and distinctly masculine undertones. These fragrances prominently featured aromatic lavender accords, as seen in creations like Guerlain’s Jicky and Houbigant’s Fougère Royale.

Several years later, a spectrum of new olfactive families came to life thanks to the discovery of synthetic raw materials. This breakthrough played a crucial role in reducing production costs, thereby making fragrances more accessible for a wider audience. Meanwhile, women embarked on a quest for greater innovation, opting for what is considered a representation of 1960s masculinity: Eau Sauvage by Dior. This allowed them to embrace a fresh and vigorous fragrance that previously did not exist for women. Shortly thereafter, Yves Saint Laurent redefined conventional fragrance norms by evoking the essence of a fantastical journey to an Eastern-inspired paradise. The fragrance Opium boldly embodied and encouraged a spirit of liberation and audacity, empowering women to break free from societal expectations. It became one of the most controversial fragrances of the 70s, owing to both its name and its inspiration drawn from the legend of the Chinese Samurai.

LIBERATION AT HEART

During that era, American brands began developing their inaugural fragrances, intended to embody the ideals of liberated feminism. Independent women could now afford their own scents, giving rise to the concept of a daily-life perfume, personified by Revlon’s Charlie. In 1994, Calvin Klein introduced CK One, an intimate, fresh, and clean fragrance aimed at the younger generation. The perfume captivated both women and men and made history as the first mass-market unisex fragrance. It not only reshaped societal norms but also gave birth to a more androgynous aesthetic, meeting the growing demand from individuals of various genders who sought inclusion and a broader range of choices in the market. The seeds of these fragrance transformations were, however, sown roughly a decade earlier by niche perfume brands. Pioneers like l’Artisan Parfumeur and Annick 82

Goutal had already initiated a profound shift in the established approach by creating fragrances that were both exclusive and of exceptional quality. Their emphasis was on highlighting the ingredients and the perfumer’s artistry, eliminating the need for gender-specific perfumes, and in turn, fostering creative freedom.

BREAKING BARRIERS

During the surge of niche brands in the 2000s, the inspiring mindset of pushing boundaries persisted, leading to even more innovative and audacious creations. One of these creations is Tom of Finland which was introduced by État Libre d’Orange in 2007. This sophisticated unisex leather fragrance draws inspiration from the infamous artist behind an iconic series of homoerotic artworks, exploring the sexual liberation of gay men. Picture below: Byredo campaign of Eyes Closed in 2022, shot by photographer Alasdair McLellan

Beyond this, the boundary-pushing mindset extended to diversity in the perfume industry – for example with perfumers of different ethnicities and brands from Asia, Africa, and Latin America. One of the most famous examples being Chris Collins, a perfumer that made history with his brand The World of Chris Collins in 2022, as the only black-owned fragrance brand sold at Bergdorf Goodman. His debut collection was inspired by the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s and 30s in New York, demonstrating that hometown inspiration can surpass that of travel experiences. Niche perfumes also gained global popularity during this era, transcending geographical boundaries. In this era niche perfumes also went global, meaning geographical boundaries were left in the past. Brands from all over the world, including those from Asia, started becoming more prominent. For example, Di Ser Perfumes from Japan showcased the art of their nation’s perfume crafting, using local ingredients from Hokkaido to offer a subtle daily fragrance experience. Many niche brands have also developed creative strategies, including storytelling, to promote inclusivity. As today’s consumers want deeper connections with brands and explore their ethos, values, authenticity, and social impact, campaigns need to resonate more strongly with their audience. Brands like Hermetica Paris started to embrace people in all their glory, celebrating skin diversity in their campaigns. The same goes for blurring sexuality lines, such as shown in Byredo’s Eyes Closed campaign. This unique fragrance brand unveiled a bold campaign, featuring kisses between individuals of all genders. Through this inspiring initiative – sharing intimate moments with the public – the brand showcased its commitment to inclusivity. Perfumes have evolved from traditional rituals to symbols of luxury and self-care, and fine fragrances now serve

Picture above: Hermetica Paris campaign of Amberoud in 2023

as a medium for self-expression and indulgence. It’s no wonder, then, that today’s consumers expect fragrance brands to provide more than just an enticing scent, and niche fragrance brands are rising to the occasion. They’ve proven to be trendsetters and are showcasing remarkable adaptability by increasingly engaging consumers based on their individual tastes and values, irrespective of class, sexuality, gender, or race. And by incorporating new methods of creation, communication, and innovation, they will undoubtedly continue to push boundaries and keep reaching exciting new heights. COLUMN

HERO FRAGRANCE

Within this colourful flacon, handcrafted by some of Britain’s finest artisans, lies an olfactory tale that illustrates life’s ever-changing dynamics. From the calm and comforting moments to the exciting climaxes, everything is bundled into a rollercoaster of scent. The serene fragrance opens with a burst of ambrette, saffron, and black pepper, and dries down to a rich base of sandalwood, orris, and styrax, which is also known as benzoin. Oud Sapphire, Boadicea the Victorious

MEDIEVAL GLORY

Explore an olfactory story in V Canto’s Souls of the Castle Collection, inspired by the souls that once lived in the Gradara castle… The elegant composition of Guillare is guaranteed to sweep you off your feet with elegant, fruity, floral, and woody notes. Guillare, V Canto, created by Paolo Terenzi

WINTER WONDERS:

MAGICAL

NOVELTIES Discover a lineup of the most phenomenal releases to add to your EOY-wish list! 84

A RUBY JUBILEE

In celebration of a remarkable 40th Jubilee, the house of Amouage introduces two extraordinary festive fragrances: Dia 40 Woman and Jubilation 40 Man! Dressed in a resplendent champagne and rose gold hue, the flacons are as much of a treasure as the fragrances inside. Enriching the original eau de parfums, Dia Woman and Jubilation XXV, these new extrait de parfums offer even greater complexity and depth, featuring an impressive perfume concentration of 40% to match this special occasion. Dia 40 Woman and Jubilation 40 Man, Amouage

TAKE A SIP

A spray a day to keep the depressos away! No more running out of coffee with this luscious fragrance. Inspired by the Italian tradition of affogato, in which creamy vanilla ice and hot espresso are mixed, Amore Caffé is composed with delicious opposites. By pairing black coffee, amaretto liquor, mellow vanilla cream, speculoos, vanilla pods, brown sugar, and grey amber, the perfume melts on your skin and creates a cloud of heavenly delight! Amore Caffé, Mancera

GUILTY PLEASURE

This appetising gourmand fragrance serves as an anti-diet

fragrance. It’s a symbol for pop culture and American food in all its extravagance, with mouthwatering notes of fresh popcorn, cola, caramel, peanut butter, soft woods, and vanilla. Is it cheat day yet? God Bless Cola, Versatile Paris, created by Elia Chiche and Camille Chemardin

SWEET WHIRLWIND

Escape from everyday life and get carried away in a warm, sweet, and aromatic hurricane.

This

fragrance

promises

boundless sensory voyage guided by notes of milk, pineapple, jasmine, raspberry, amber, vanilla, and white musk. Astratto, Bois 1920

OUDGASM

Born from Mona Kattan’s profound love for oud, the Oudgasm collection was established with four mystical oud fragrances to dazzle your senses: Vanilla Oud | 36, Café Oud | 19, Rose Oud | 16, and Tobacco Oud | 04. Each fragrance offers a unique twist on oud, exploring its countless facets and possibilities for layering. The collection ranges from a light intensity to a higher intensity, for you to mix and match with each other to create your ultimate scent. Oudgasm Collection, Kayali,

created by Hamid Merati-Kashani

NOVELTIES

LUMINOUS INDIGO

Plunge into the enticing Encre Indigo, the breathtaking sequel to the iconic Encre Noire. This energetic fragrance pays tribute to the artist René Lalique and his vision via a daring play of colours and contrasts. Like a droplet of ink dispersed into water, the bottle undergoes a mesmerizing colour transformation, fading from an opaque inky black into a pure indigo. In the juice, a fiery and daring encounter awaits, in which effervescent bergamot, crisp juniper berry, and tangy saffron collide. Encre Indigo, Lalique, created by Annick Menardo

EVERYDAY BEAUTY

A poetic, sensual, and delicate reminder to try and discover happiness in every passing day. The minimalistic fragrance gently unveils the enchanting notes of star anise, cashmere flower, tonka bean, freesia, and the tranquil musk for a

EMBRACE OF WARMTH

À Corps Cuivré by Molinard is the latest addition to La

spray of bliss in your daily life. Ode to Dullness,

Collection Privée: a collection that pays homage to the rich

Juliette has a Gun

family history of more than 170 years and those who have made the house of Molinard what it is today. The perfume is conceived as a heartfelt tribute and gift by Managing Director Célia Lerouge-Bénard to her brother, Clément. Encased in the iconic purple flacon is an enchanting blend of amber and rum, wrapping your skin in a warm and elegant embrace. À Corps Cuivré, Molinard

CASH IN A BOTTLE

The rose is also known as the ‘money flower’, which is at the heart of this charming extrait de parfum. It flourishes on your skin, blending the scent of sweet rose petals with velvety nuances of cashmere, lively pepper, amber crystals, musk, and sandalwood to create a charming fragrance. Cash Flower, Fugazzi

PINNACLES WITH A TWIST

Masterpieces are exceptionally hard to rival, but with The Art of Blend Collection, Moresque demonstrates that it’s indeed possible, introducing exquisite variations to three of their successful formulas. Rand Rose, a reinterpretation of the beloved Rand perfume, now features the opulence of Damask Rose. Regina di Fiori imparts an additional floral dimension to the original Regina scent, while Amberesque enriches the amber notes of the preceding Amber Arabesque fragrance. Not only the scents turn heads: the aesthetics of the juices are just as unique, as they are infused with shimmering, iridescent micro-pearls. The Art of Blend Collection, Moresque

TEMPTATIOUS ELEXIR

An olfactory painting of the rich and sensuous patchouli.

What starts off as a fresh and gourmand scent, gradually leads to mysterious depths with a warm trail of woody and earthy tones, leaving a tempting and enduring sillage. Patchouli Mania, Essential Parfums, created by Fabrice Pellegrin

EMERALD ELEGANCE

Navitus Parfums, known for their collabs with renowned perfume reviewers, has launched

DIRTY LAVENDER

another creation in partnership with Ai the Great. Amorous Intense, an extrait de parfum,

Contrary to the cliché purple bar soap by

is commended for its intoxicating trail with

the sink, this fragrance does not belong in

baked pear, apple sauce, rum absolute, caramel,

your grandmother’s wall-papered bathroom!

and whipped cream. Amorous Intense, Navitus

Le Labo’s unconventional take on lavender

Parfums, created by Bertrand Duchaufour and

shatters all its stereotypes, ushering in a clean

Berengere Bourgarel

but dirty twist on this classic ingredient. By melding bergamot and neroli with ambery and musky notes and a finishing touch of delicious tonka, it’s a lavender like never before. Lavande 31, Le Labo

NOVELTIES

SACRED BLEND

On the outskirts of the lively Prague you’ll find a church that has endured the ebb and flow of centuries. Here, the scent of burning incense dances through the air, light converges with the shadows, and the past unites with the present – inspiring the merging of opposing forces and the creation of Oratorio. Like a beacon of light, mandarin and neroli blend in with the sacred allure of incense and cedar, after which it meets the depths of patchouli and opoponax to journey into darkness at last. Oratorio, Pigmentarium, created by Théo Belmas

SHOUT-OUT TO THAMEEN

After watching an opera that was the performance of a lifetime, the Italians shout ‘bravi’. And that’s what we’re

GIVE ME MÓOR

witnessing with this novelty from Thameen. It re-creates the

Tuberose: you either love it or hate it. The

queen of the night flower with intoxicating tuberose and is

perfume market has been flooded with tuberose

dramatized with an overdose of ginger and a novel walnut

bombshells, but Régime des Fleurs chose a

milk accord. For all divo’s and diva’s: Bravi is the standing

distinctly unisex take on the ingredient. Tóor-

ovation you’ve been looking for! Bravi, Thameen, created by

Tóor is a tuberose perfume that reimagines

Bruno Jovanovic

the infamously mesmerising and sensual white flower by adding a unique raw, green, earthy, and slightly bitter twist. Tóor-Tóor, Régime des Fleurs, created by Dominique Ropion

NAUGHTY LITTLE EXTRAIT

My goodness – we all knew that perfumes could be sexy, but this beaut is truly tantalising all the senses! The latest release Erotika Minimale is a kinky stunner that echoes the iconic accord of rose and patchouli, but sexier. Gourmand facets of cinnamon and vanilla add that aphrodisiacal touch of confident elegance to captivate the object of your desire. Erotika Minimale, New Notes

THE CROWD HAS SPOKEN

Say what? Introducing the first Xerjoff perfume ever, selected by perfume lovers! After months of sniffing, the public has chosen its favourite and here it is: White on White. A pure and pristine perfume with fig, cedarwood, patchouli, and vanilla bourbon that exudes elegance and impeccability. The perfume is exclusively available on the Xerjoff website, so you better start surfing! White on White, Xerjoff

MYTH IN A BOTTLE

Embark on two mythical fragrance journeys

DOSE OF STRENGTH

with Herá and Hadès by Giardino Benessere.

Amidst the desert, the Ghaf tree stands as a symbol

Inspired by the goddess of marriage and fertility and the god of the underworld, they’re sure to

of inner strength and a formidable tribute to the

transport you to otherworldly olfactory realms.

past. It’s the national tree of the UAE and much like

Herà and Hadès, Giardino Benessere, created by

it, the fresh, green, and fruity Ajyal carries resilience

Paolo Terenzi

and optimism in every note, narrating the tale of the legendary land it’s from. Ajyal, The Spirit of Dubai

TAKE YOUR PICK

When your love for a specific ingredient knows no bounds, discovering a fragrance that truly captures its glory can be challenging. Meet the Ingredients Collection photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

by Wilgermain, where four raw materials are put on a pedestal one by one, in all their power and splendour. So you can indulge

Can’t get enough of these niche

in your favourite guilty pleasure, be it the

perfume discoveries? There is more!

exotic allure of Arabic woods, the elegance

Go to leparfummagazine.com and

of floral bouquets, luxurious suede leather,

explore other enchanting releases;

or the almighty rose. Ingredients Collection,

from indie houses to the most

Wilgermain, created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux

renowned brands.

NOVELTIES

Q&A WITH

CÉCILE ZAROKIAN

ABOUT THE NEW VANILLA EDESIA

photography ELECTIMUSS LONDON, CÉCILE ZAROKIAN

Electimuss London has launched a new, addictive vanilla gourmand perfume in collaboration with master perfumer Cécile Zarokian. Read all about her inspiration, the creation process of this special fragrance, and its unique character below! What was the inspiration behind Vanilla Edesia? This fragrance is inspired by Edesia, the Roman goddess of feasting and luxury. Ancient Roman feasts epitomised opulence and hedonism, brimming with indulgence and delight. Claire Sokell Thompson, the creative director of Electimuss London, wanted to capture that sense of decadence and pleasure with something addictive, intoxicating, and erotic. The brief was a gourmand perfume with vanilla at its heart, but I was also looking for something more nuanced than a straight gourmand. So I imagined a cornucopia of epicurean pleasures, exotic flowers and fruits, sensory delights, and sensual pleasures. Could you describe the process of creating this fragrance? How did you come up with the composition? Much like vanilla itself, Vanilla Edesia is built on duality. While the flavour of vanilla can evoke sweetness and innocence, the natural vanilla bean reveals a much darker, spicier, more leathery, and almost animalic side…

On the one hand, the fragrance blends a soft, comforting, and sensual character through musky and floral notes with creamy gourmands like vanilla and almond. On the other hand, the strong character of the fragrance shows through the use of numerous potent woody notes such as sandalwood and vetiver, distinctive spices such as pink pepper and cinnamon, as well as a leathery facet. As Edesia is the goddess of food and feasting, the perfume also exudes the duality of food itself. While it meets essential needs, provides comfort, and serves as personal indulgence, it also stands as a testament to elegance, authority, and status, notably during grand events such as dinners, feasts, and banquets. What is in your opinion the most special aspect of this novelty? Vanilla Edesia reflects the elegance of abundance through the addition of vanilla supported by woody notes and a spicy blend. The complexity of these facets gives this fragrance its versatility, fitting any situation of the day. The spices refresh the vanilla at the top, which evolves with unabashed lavishness as the day goes on. It is very powerful, highlighting opulence, elegance, and versatility. It smells extravagant and definitely fills the room as you walk in! NOVELTIES

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