Le Parfum haute e-magazine (English) - Fall/Winter 2024 chapter 5

L E PA R F U M H A U T E

FRAGRANCE

MIRACLES

M A G A Z I N E

G U I DANCE 46 EXC EPTI ONAL EXTRAI T

CONTENTS BRANDS TO DISCOVER

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DOSE OF INSPIRATION 10

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE The most enchanting fragrances

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NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU Four perfume brands to discover

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NEWLY DISCOVERED Eye-catching perfume brands

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ESSENCES OF HOME The most stunning home collections

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A MIDDLE EASTERN SYMPHONY Ojar

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BEHIND THE SCENTS Jillian Switzerland

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ESSENCE OF ELEGANCE Introducing Coisy B & BYMO

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A MASTER PERFUMER'S REALM Christian Provenzano Parfums

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MILKMANIA The gourmand reinvented

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FRAGRANCE FRONTIERS Rising stars in perfumery

MORE OF LE PARFUM

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YOUR SCENTED GIFT GUIDE Beautiful fragrant gifts

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TWINKLING NEW WINTER RELEASES The latest perfume launches

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SCENT SCOOP

The latest trends in the perfume industry

YOUR 2025 FULL OF LE PARFUM The gift that keeps on giving

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KNOW-HOW 34

CONCENTRATION CRAZE Your upgraded EDP

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CPL AROMAS: NOSY 'BOUT NOTES Trending scents

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GIVAUDAN: PERFUME INNOVATIONS The future of fragrance creation

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MANE: ESCENTIALS Tricks of the trade: CO2 extraction

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ROJA DOVE Crafting paradise

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DOMINIQUE ROPION Diary of a perfumer

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PIERRE & AMÉLIE MONTALE The untold story behind Montale

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SCENTXPLORE The U.S. niche perfume revolution

SCENT

SCOOP This fifth edition of Le Parfum Magazine is all about the exciting developments and trends shaping the niche perfume landscape. To kick things off, we present a captivating overview of the eleven most vibrant trends that are currently making waves in the perfume industry.

THE OUD COMEBACK Oud is back and stronger than ever! Once considered an exotic ingredient, it has now become a staple in modern perfumery with a fresh twist. With Maison Crivelli’s bestselling Oud Maracujá setting the trend for fruity oud blends, a new wave of ‘Westernised’ oud fragrances is entering the stage. Today, oud shines in exciting new forms, blending less animalic essences with unexpected notes – like the clean, airy orange facet in Air Oud by Ohtop.

website LEPARFUMMAGAZINE.COM socials @LEPARFUMMAGAZINE

FRUITY REINVENTIONS Fruity fragrances are experiencing a renaissance, with brands reinventing traditional fruity notes by adding unexpected twists. Diptyque’s new release, Eau de Minthé, fuses mint with raspberry, creating a refreshing scent. This playful approach appeals to perfume lovers seeking a fun and elegant fragrance for everyday wear.

GOURMAND INNOVATIONS Gourmand scents are evolving beyond the typical sweet profiles, as innovative brands explore savoury notes and unexpected combinations. Take Rital Date by Versatile Paris, for instance, which blends sweet notes of pistachio ice cream with a spicy mix of pesto and basil, creating an intriguing gourmand experience.

THE ALLURE OF SALINE ACCORDS Saline accords are making a significant impact in niche perfumery, evoking a sense of freshness and calm, reminiscent of sun-drenched beaches. With their creation Salty Tiarè, Salum Parfums evokes the lush sea waves of Polynesia while combining sensual white flowers and vanilla. A Grove by the Sea by Arquiste, winner of the Marie Claire Best Overall Niche Fragrance Award 2024, captures the essence of a small island in the Adriatic Sea. With a salty opening and notes of fig, clementine, olive, rosemary, thyme, pine needles, and clay, it unfolds its unique aroma.

THE RISE OF EXTRACTS Perfume extracts are gaining popularity due to their more intense, concentrated, and luxurious scent experience. More and more perfume houses are adding extrait lines to their collections, catering to connoisseurs seeking richer, longer-lasting scents. The Exceptional Extraits from The House of Amouage enhance the character of the original fragrances, offering a deeper aromatic richness, with concentrations of 40% to up to 60% pure perfume oil (read more on pages 34 and 35).

EDITORIAL

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PERFUME TO GO As Gen Z continues to influence the market, smaller sizes are making a splash. Compact and portable, these mini fragrances appeal to a generation that values convenience, exploration, and variety. Young scent lovers can easily mix and match with the wide range of mini bottles, travel sizes, and discovery set samples that are available these days. BDK Parfums just launched a delightful set of five miniatures, offering an olfactory journey through Paris in tiny 10 ml bottles – big on personality, yet small in size.

Another example is Pigmentarium, that recently released convenient 10 ml bottles featuring their iconic scents.

PUSHING OLFACTORY BOUNDARIES Niche brands are also expanding their offerings beyond traditional perfumes, via scented candles, diffusers, body products, hair perfumes, and even laundry perfumes.

Additionally, some brands are exploring the integration of fragrance with lifestyle products, such as limited-edition champagne collections like Xerjoff’s De Venoge Louis XV champagne, which enhances the overall sensory experience.

This holistic approach encourages consumers to immerse themselves in a complete fragrance journey.

PERFUME AS AN ARTISTIC STATEMENT The presentation of niche perfumes is as important as the scent itself. Many brands are investing in artistic and luxurious bottle designs, turning them into collectible pieces. D’Otto’s debut collection takes this concept further, by translating creations from renowned abstract masters like Mondrian, Kandinsky, and Pollock into liquid art. The

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refillable bottles are designed as structures that can be positioned in various ways, offering aesthetic pleasure – like works of art!

OLFACTORY MOOD SHAPERS In our fast-paced society, prioritising physical and mental well-being is not only becoming more important but increasingly common as well. As a result, people are seeking ways to create small, on-the-go spa moments with mood-boosting scents that help them relax amidst the chaos of daily life. Perroy Parfum designed their collection of eight perfumes as a palette of moods, allowing you to ‘spray your mood’. Edeniste takes this a step further: working with leading neuroscientists, they developed Lifeboost® active essences. The fragrances in this collection are tested and proven to improve emotional well-being.

REVEALING THE ESSENCE Perfume buyers are increasingly demanding transparency about the origin of ingredients, the perfumers, and the production processes. The niche brand Mind Games is responding to this by revealing the creation story of its perfumes. Their latest fragrances, Mentor and Prodigy, are presented in luxurious boxes containing two small vials of the characteristic main scent notes (boya oud, amber, patchouli, and rose absolute), as well as blotters, videos of the makers, and explanatory booklets. Each bottle also displays the specific fragrance pyramid of the perfume on the back, ensuring complete transparency.

AROMA EVOLUTION Producers of ingredients for niche fragrances, like CPL Aromas, DSM-Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, Mane, Robertet and Symrise, are increasingly developing synthetic equivalents of natural materials. At the forefront of this movement is ‘green chemistry’, which prioritises and enhances sustainability while preserving rich olfactory profiles. This approach also paves the way for unconventional notes like metal, durian, and seaweed, as well as innovative concepts such as water-based perfumes.

Innovation is further fuelled by AI, which helps to identify trending notes and predict future fragrance profiles. Mane recently launched The New Gourmandise, translating the tastes of sweet foods into fragrance. Meanwhile, DSM-Firmenich introduced Orange NextGen, a natural alternative to orange oils, ensuring flavour while addressing supply shortages in orange citrus oils.

MORE LE PARFUM The era of sticking to only one single signature scent is behind us. And in this exciting new landscape, having an experienced guide to help you navigate the vast array of niche offerings is essential for discovering your best picks and new matches. With that in mind, Le Parfum Magazine has recently opened its very first experience centre in the Netherlands: Le Parfum Boutique. Offering personalised perfume consultations, workshops, and a sample service, it provides support for everyone – from fragrance newcomers to seasoned aficionados.

Additionally, Le Parfum Boutique organises dynamic multisensory exhibitions that explore new fragrance concepts,

such as the Fragrances for Gen Z expo, emerging trends like Perfume as an Artistic Statement, and specific fragrance families. With innovations in aroma concepts, production methods, and a growing focus on sustainability, the behind-the-scenes aspects of perfume houses are gaining attention, reflecting the transparency trend. Le Parfum Boutique also provides a platform for this exploration through its online and in-person masterclasses. These exceptional sessions shine a spotlight on one niche brand at a time, as we walk through their story and unveil unique ‘behind the scents’ insights.

The Le Parfum Boutique in Breukelen is the first of many experience centres that are set to open worldwide in the near future. Curious to find out more about Le Parfum Boutique in the meantime? Visit leparfumboutique.com.

As you browse through this edition of Le Parfum Magazine, you’ll find that many of these exciting new trends are featured and discussed throughout our articles. Take, for example, The Future of Fragrance Creation, in which we explore artificial intelligence in the perfume industry with Givaudan. Furthermore, Roja Dove shares the inspiring story behind his famous luxury perfume house Roja, and French master perfumer Dominique Ropion reveals the journey that has led to the creation of many of his iconic fragrances. We also unveil the story behind Montale and Mancera, in an interview with renowned perfumer Pierre Montale and his daughter, artistic director Amélie Montale.

Overall, this winter edition is sure to ignite your senses with scented inspiration, beautiful gift ideas, exciting fragrance launches, and so much more!

With love,

Team Le Parfum

EDITORIAL

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1 FIRESIDE BLISS Like a gentle flame or a warm embrace, Hypnotizing Fire draws you into an intimate place, hypnotic and mysterious. With subtle gourmand notes of vanilla and praline, resinous benzoin, spicy pimento berries, and intense oud, the fragrance leaves a mellow

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and seductive sillage. Hypnotizing Fire by The Harmonist, extrait de parfum 50 ml €305

A unique scent experience inspired by the grey, dusty surface of the moon. This mysterious essence combines bergamot and pineapple with saffron, raspberry, and warm, spicy woods to evoke the magic of the

Looking to find a fragrance to match the festive spirit? Try one of these five magical scents and envelop yourself in a fragrant cloud of holiday enchantment.

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night sky. Moon by Nicheend, eau de parfum 100 ml €280

3 A PART OF YOU Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s APOM is back, merging the best of its original for him and for her fragrances! With its luminous combination of orange blossom, lavender, amber, and woody notes, this fragrance adds a touch of warmth and allure to your skin. APOM by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, eau de parfum 70 ml €185

4 HOLIDAY DELIGHT La Tacita de Café is a delightful fusion of sweet, creamy, and spicy aromas. The notes of coffee, brown sugar, vanilla, rum, chocolate, and orange are perfectly balanced, allowing each to complement the others, creating a soft and unforgettable fragrance.

La Tacita de Café by Day Three Fragrances, extrait de parfum 50 ml €137

5 WINTER SYMPHONY Like enchantment captured in a flacon, C Woody Leather features over 208 ingredients that tell a tale of warmth and intrigue. Through a winter symphony of saffron, tobacco, and mandarin, it unveils a warm and smoky scent to delight your senses. C Woody Leather by Clive Christian, extrait de parfum 50 ml €400

INSPIRATION

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photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE

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2 CELESTIAL GLOW

TORINO24

The exclusive Xerjoff eau de parfum for the Nitto ATP Finals XERJOFF.COM

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU Four niche perfume brands that should be on your radar for the upcoming season.

OFF-WHITE FRAGRANCES: BOLDLY MODERN CREATIVE | ORIGINAL | VIBRANT

You may have heard of the iconic luxury streetwear brand Off-White, founded by the visionary Virgil Abloh. Since 2022, this brand has also been making waves in the niche fragrance industry with their own fragrance collection consisting of nine perfumes. Similar to the fashion designs, the fragrances have a distinctive look and feel, blending luxurious nuances with a bold and urban aesthetic. Each fragrance is called a ‘Solution’, reflecting the idea that there’s a perfect scent for everyone. One of the seasonal favourites is Solution No. 6, a woody gourmand – with hints of chocolate and rum – that’s simply perfect for the colder months.

This fragrance can be worn on its own or layered with the other fragrances from this collection to create your own unique scent experience. website OFF---WHITE.COM instagram @OFF

WHITE Solution No. 6 | eau de parfum | 50 ml | €95

AROMAS DE SALAZAR: LOCAL TREASURES

ARTISANAL | DISTINCTIVE | AUTHENTIC

In collaboration with local farmers and suppliers, fragrance house Aromas de Salazar, founded by Mr Salazar, sources only the finest ingredients. While not 100% natural, many of their formulas are derived from pure sources, ensuring that quality is never compromised in crafting the accords that form the foundation of Aromas de Salazar’s exquisite fragrances – and that no expense is spared either.

The essences are designed not only to evoke emotions but also to create beautiful experiences and leave a lasting impression. Among their autumn and winter gems is Valentine, where vibrant violet collides with earthy patchouli, accentuated by orange blossom, bitter almond, raspberry, and cardamom absolute. A luxurious heart of florals unfolds into a rich base of cognac, cypress leaf, white chocolate, vanilla, allspice, and papyrus – crafting a rare and striking essence made to stand out in the crowd! website AROMASDESALAZAR.COM instagram @AROMASDESALAZAR Valentine | extrait de parfum | 50 ml | €166

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NICHEEND: JOURNEY TO SPACE ETERNAL | MYSTERIOUS | ELEGANT

Nicheend draws inspiration from the great mysteries of the universe. The story began with the creation of the Space perfume, posing the question: what does space smell like? An interesting question, because there’s no air in space – making it impossible for you to smell anything!

NASA astronauts have described the scent they experienced right after a spacewalk as a metallic burn with a faint hint of raspberries. This was later supported by a Swedish scientist, who discovered ethyl formate – the compound responsible for the distinctive smell and taste of raspberries – in a dust cloud within the Milky Way. Nicheend has translated these extraordinary experiences into an olfactive composition, bringing this sensation to life with a metallic-raspberry fragrance aptly named Space.

Beyond this fragrance, the Universe Collection features seventeen other scents inspired by cosmic wonders. From the warmth of the sun to the rings of Saturn, and the intriguing grey landscape of the moon, each fragrance promises an out-of-thisworld perfume experience, turning many heads along the way. website NICHEEND.COM instagram @NICHEENDUNIVERSE Space | eau de parfum | 100 ml | €280

JARDIN DE PARFUMS: FRAGRANT GARDEN

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

ARTISTIC | PERSONALISED | EXPERIENTIAL

As bold as Italian designs and as magical as the Gardens of Versailles in France, Jardin de Parfums blends cultural richness with artisanal finesse. Characterised by stunning pastel colours and floral bouquets, their creations and personalised concept stores are both a visual and an olfactive delight. The brand features three collections, one of which is the White Essentials, a sophisticated range inspired by iconic white flowers. Secondly, there’s Papaverum, drawing inspiration from the vibrant poppy flower. Lastly, there’s Unique, a line evoking the mysterious ambiance of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon – one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

One of their must-try fragrances is Oum. As an olfactory tribute to the legendary Arabic artist Oum Kalthoum, it captures her delicate yet powerful aura with floral and Middle Eastern notes such as bergamot, orris, rose, sandalwood, and musk. The fragrance creates a long-lasting woody sweetness that lingers as beautifully as Oum Kalthoum’s voice. website JDPARFUMS.COM instagram @JARDINDEPARFUMS Oum | eau de parfum | 100 ml | €180

INSPIRATION

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CRAFTING

PARADISE Roja Dove’s journey through the world of fragrance is nothing short of extraordinary. From his earliest memories of being captivated by scent, to establishing a world-renowned Haute Parfumerie in Harrods, Dove has pioneered the art of luxurious perfumery.

His brand, Roja, founded in 2011, has become synonymous with sophistication, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. In this exclusive interview, Roja Dove shares a rare glimpse into his personal stories, creative insights, and visions for the future of Roja — including the launch of new fragrances, innovative layering techniques, and the growing legacy of haute perfumery.

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ou’ve had a deep connection with fragrances from a young age.

Could you share your earliest memory of falling in love with a scent and realising your affinity for the art of perfumery?

My earliest memory of scent is from an evening when my mother came to kiss me goodnight – I was around five or six years old. She was about to attend a cocktail party, wearing a gold lamé dress. The light streamed in from the landing, and with her metallic dress, it looked as if she had a glowing aura around her, like something I’d only ever seen in a book about fairies or angels. I recall the smell of her face powder and perfume, and in that moment, I believed the scent had had something to do with transforming my mum into this extraordinary vision.

That goodnight kiss was the first time I thought about the connection between scent and memory. At that moment, I don’t think I chose fragrance; I believe it chose me. From then on, I became fascinated by scent. I always say it’s like a genie taking me on a journey – you just close your eyes and let it take you to magical places. For me, scent has an undeniable link to fantasy.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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In 2004, you launched the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, offering a curated selection of both renowned and emerging brands. How did it feel to establish your own perfumery within the world’s most iconic department store? And with this year marking the 20th anniversary of the perfumery, how do you reflect on this milestone?

I opened the world’s first Haute Parfumerie in Harrods to celebrate all that is beautiful about the craft of perfumemaking. Stepping inside is like walking into an olfactive wonderland – a shrine dedicated to what I consider the world’s most creative, original, and luxurious creations.

Twenty years on, I am honoured to say that we have been pioneers of luxury fragrance, with aficionados travelling from across the globe to discover Roja potions, alongside perfume maisons that I regard as the finest in our industry.

The scents in my Haute Parfumerie are handpicked to become a part of our clients’ lives and loves.

What eventually inspired you to create Roja, which launched in 2011, and what was the creative vision behind it?

Roja was born from my desire to create fragrances that evoke emotion while embodying quality, luxury, and innovation. Scents that, I hope, will become a lasting part of our customers’ lives. From creative signature fragrances – parfum and eau de parfum – to home collections, each scent is crafted using the finest quality raw materials. We create fragrances that evoke sensations, unlock memories, and allow each wearer to authentically express their individual personality. Roja fragrances are olfactive art pieces. We are proudly and brilliantly British – an independent perfumery house that conjures scented enchantment with British flair, embracing humour and fantasy. We are celebrated globally for our uncompromising approach to luxury. Our handcrafted compositions are brought to life using the finest quality raw materials, encased in bejewelled bottles and crowned with crystal caps.

Our Roja family creates distinctive parfum and eau de parfum fragrances with renowned longevity, resonating with our loyal clientele and becoming a part of their character – their scented signature.

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Roja is celebrated for its use of high-quality ingredients. As a perfumer, is there a particular ingredient that you find especially exquisite? What makes it stand out to you?

I have a few favourite ingredients I love working with, like labdanum from the rock rose. It reminds me of peeling back a scarf and inhaling the soft, warm intimacy of someone’s skin.

Carnations also captivate me with their warmth, sweetness, spice, and diffusiveness. When in bloom, their fragrance gently caresses you as you breathe in the summer air. I have always been drawn to orris as well; it commands attention and exudes confidence without being overpowering. Its whispers in the base are so delicately soft, embodying love and refined femininity. I also adore gardenia for its creamy, enveloping, and tender nature, and I have a deep fondness for lavender – the true scent of summer. Whether it’s growing in an English country garden, with its sweet, pervasive fragrance, or drying in the sun along the Côte d’Azur, where leathery undertones emerge, no other scent captures the essence of summertime quite like lavender.

As a perfumer, you are known for your creative perfumery style. Could you walk us through your creative process, from the inception of an idea to the final product?

Creating a fragrance is like painting a picture – but without using paint. We perform poetry without words, allowing raw

website ROJAPARFUMS.COM instagram @ROJAPARFUMS

materials to express our ideas through the language of scent.

Perfume is like viewing a majestic piece of art; you must surrender to its silent story and let your emotions take over.

At Roja, we always start with a name when creating a perfume, as an identity helps paint a picture of how a scent should smell. Taking The Elysium Collection, for example – these fragrances were inspired by paradise – another word for Elysium – and are crafted for those possessing strength of character. Whoever enters our Elysium universe has the power to create their own paradise – their world, their way.

The journey of Elysium Pour Femme eau de parfum began in 2017, when our best-selling fragrance, Elysium Pour Homme eau de parfum, was launched. We were inspired by the vision of capturing paradise within a fragrance, creating a realm we all desire to frequent.

Elysium Parfum Pour Femme is fruity, floral and fresh – a symphony of sweet blossoms, vibrant fruits, alongside sensual musks and woods. A succulent burst of mandarin opens this creation, revealing a honeyed peach as if dipped in sugar. The heart of the fragrance is led by peony, offering a charming sweetness that adds to the perfume’s irresistible nature. Enhancing the floral freshness, cyclamen, dripping in dew, sits alongside a delicate note of violet. The base features cedarwood and sandalwood, bringing the empowerment celebrated in all Roja Elysium creations. These woods

are highly sensual and boast an unrivalled longevity, evoking strength.

Shouldering the men’s creation, Elysium Pour Femme eau de parfum was crafted for the self-sufficient woman, embodying unapologetic strength as she forges her own path to paradise – her world, her way. The power of the woods and musks in this fragrance linger in the memory of those inspired by the Elysium woman.

The bottle design itself exemplifies Roja’s uncompromising luxury – the iridescent pink and blue aesthetic encapsulates the product’s paradisiacal essence, while the changing light affects the bottle’s colour, symbolising the many facets of femininity. Triple hand-polished glass gives the bottle a crystal-like finish, while the multifaceted crystal cap crowning the fragrance signifies the strength of the woman who inspires it.

The Prestige Collection has had a brand new launch since the end of September – a lovely gourmand inspired by your time as a fragrance trainer in Paris. Could you tell us a bit more about this launch?

Lost in Paris will be our first launch for the Prestige Collection since 2018. This new olfactive creation was inspired by the enchantment and festive spirit of the City of Lights. It embodies the crème-de-la-crème of gourmand accords, with its composition of delectable caramelised orange, Parisian glamour, and an indulgent Grand Marnier glaze. I drew upon a delightful memory of a Crêpe Suzette enjoyed under the vibrant lights of Paris, transporting me to a warm, irresistible, and indulgent moment in time. An explosion of sweet delights – caramelised oranges infused with rich Grand Marnier, and syrupy Bourbon vanilla.

Fragrance is deeply personal and can evoke powerful emotions. What do you hope people feel or experience when they wear a creation by Roja?

Fragrance is all about the secret underneath. I believe we all deserve to discover a scent that connects us to our truest self.

What I love about perfume is its non-judgmental nature – it disregards age, gender, and race. Fragrance is kind to everyone and has the power to truly elevate your inner being.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

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A PLETHORA OF

website PLETHORA.AE instagram @PLETHORA.UAE

PERFUMES As one of the first in the Middle East to specialise in niche fragrances, Plethora Perfume Lounge has become a go-to for fragrance aficionados seeking something truly special. Over the years, the boutique has expanded across the UAE, with over ten retail outlets catering to perfume lovers who are passionate about rare and exquisite scents. What makes Plethora unique is its dedication to creating a deeply personal and engaging fragrance experience.

Each store is thoughtfully designed to offer a tailored journey, whether it’s a quick stop at the fragrance library, an immersive dive into the olfactive animation space, or a leisurely exploration in the fragrance parlour or lounge.

Perfume lovers from all over the world can wander freely through these inspiring spaces to discover the collection.

Among the hidden gems, you’ll find a wide selection of

renowned brands, such as Sospiro, Nasomatto, Bond No. 9, Xerjoff, Boadicea the Victorious, Fragrance Du Bois, and Ramon Monegal – names that resonate with those who appreciate artistry and craftsmanship in niche perfumery.

With their expanding presence across the UAE, Plethora Perfume Lounge continues to be a premier destination for luxurious, one-of-a-kind fragrance adventures. To experience their olfactive magic first-hand, step into one of their boutiques or visit their webshop: plethora.ae.

Want to get a taste of their collection this season? We recommend you try one of the following perfumes:

BLACK STONE

BY RAMÓN BÉJAR

MY BLUE ADDICTION

BY ROSADOOR

ALEXANDRIA II

BY XERJOFF

ADVERTORIAL

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Milkmania: THE GOURMAND

REINVENTED You may have noticed the buzz on TikTok about milky fragrances. With gourmand fragrances still surging in popularity, these milky perfumes are flying off the shelves.

Described as the perfect way to smell like a sweet but elegant high-end dessert, they offer the ultimate alternative for sweet tooths who are craving something beyond the regular scented sugar rush.

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ilk has long been a staple in the most delicious desserts, so it’s no surprise that it can also be blended beautifully into creamy fragrances. While the trend might seem new, lactonic or milky notes have actually been part of the perfume industry for decades. This trend can be traced back to 1998 with Le Feu d’Issey by Issey Miyake, which featured an innovative overdose of milk, a note that has remained part of the perfumer’s palette ever since.

Just like in desserts, this fragrance note offers a sweet, creamy, powdery, and soft scent. It evokes the aroma of almond or coconut milk, sweet pastries, or even the lactonic scent of fruits like peach or apricot. Thanks to its versatile character, this note blends seamlessly with a wide range of scents, enhancing the creamy and solar aspects of flower notes, as well as vanilla, tonka bean, and sandalwood, to name few.

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Once applied, milky fragrances create an intimate ‘second-skin’ effect, offering a sophisticated but comfortable sensation. They strike the perfect balance between richness and depth, giving the wearer a uniquely strong yet soft olfactory experience. However, working with lactonic notes can be quite challenging, as they are very sensitive to light, heat, and air, making them tricky to blend. Don’t be fooled by the innocent character of this note either: it’s still a very powerful ingredient, and when used in excess, it can become unpleasant. It’s all about striking the right balance!

Want to hop on the milkmania trend as well?

Check out our top recommendations.

INTOXICATINGLY GOOD

You may have already spotted this fragrance trending on TikTok, as it’s currently one of the most popular perfume sensations! With its

delicious blend of vanilla, milk, and honey, Bianco Latte by Giardini di Toscana envelops you in a dreamy, sweet cloud. Combined with white musk and caramel, it wraps your skin in a warm and comforting embrace that feels as soft and cosy as your favourite knitted sweater.

Bianco Latte, Giardini di Toscana, created by Silvia Martinelli

SOFT & CREAMY

This is one of the most popular fragrances of Commodity

Fragrances and definitely a fan favourite! With its unique and cosy blend of marshmallow, milk, tonka bean, and mahogany wood, Milk has conquered many hearts in the fragrance industry. Thanks to Commodity’s Scent Space option, you can even customise the intensity of the fragrance. Choose ‘personal’ for a more subtle, skinlike scent. Select ‘expressive’ for a more intense experience than the original Milk fragrance. And if you’re after an even stronger and warmer version with a more pronounced swirl of milky notes, Milk+ is a good choice. Take your pick! Milk, Commodity Fragrances,

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

created by Christelle Laprade

COFFEE BREAK

There’s nothing better on a cold winter’s day than a warm cup of

coffee. Coffee Break by Maison Margiela captures the milky facets of a comforting coffee and warm pastries by blending notes of milk, coffee, and a hint of lavender. So with or without your morning caffeine boost, you’ll be ready to take on the day! Coffee Break, Maison Margiela, created by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud

INSPIRATION

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SCENTED CERAMICS WWW.CERAMICASARCOLA.COM BUSINESS INQUIRIES CONTACT@CERAMICASARCOLA.COM

FRAGRANCE

FRONTIERS RISING STARS IN PERFUMERY

Gone are the days when working in the perfume industry was reserved exclusively for those born into prestigious fragrance dynasties. A new era has dawned – one where passion, creativity, and a thriving online community have opened doors for a diverse group of fragrance enthusiasts.

Le Parfum Magazine sought out a few of these inspiring young professionals to share their fragrance stories with the world. One of them now works for a world-renowned niche perfume house, another has become a perfumer, and the third has even launched his own brand. The sky truly is the limit!

COLUMN

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MARK TUKA A LIFE-CHANGING EVENT

Ever since I can remember, I have had a love for scents. The smell of freshly cut grass and the damp, earthy aroma of the Hungarian countryside after the summer rains are forever embedded in my memory. My mother, who was obsessed with designer fragrances like Organza by Givenchy and Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna, also left me with strong scent memories. These fragrances have helped nurture a lifelong passion for scent, one that I’m fortunate enough to pursue to this day.

Over seven years ago, I started an Instagram account to review fragrances, enabling me to write about the perfumes I encountered. Times were different back then, as you could reach more people through genuine content, and the landscape wasn’t oversaturated. I quickly garnered a following and started falling even deeper in love with the fragrance industry. For me, it was an escape I never knew I needed – and it still is, to this very day.

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NO LIMITS

My journey in the perfume industry has taught me that we should follow what our heart desires. You shouldn’t let pressure overwhelm you, and it’s important to find your own voice – because when you speak up, people usually listen. To anyone wishing to become part of this industry, I would say: don’t be afraid to take that leap of faith. People are more open than we give them credit for. So write that message, be engaged, show your support, and show up! Additionally, I’ve learned how truly magical perfume is. While one would think that being in the industry and seeing its challenges would ruin the enchantment, the opposite happened to me.

The House of Amouage is truly special and it has made me fall in love with the magic of fragrance all over again.

instagram & tiktok @FRAGRENTURESOFMARK

Influencer-turned-perfume-industry professional Mark Tuka has been mesmerised by the world of fragrances and the art of perfumery ever since he was young. What started as a fragrance review account on Instagram seven years ago transformed into a journey that landed Mark a dream job at one of the most celebrated perfume houses in the industry.

On 16th August 2021, during the difficult days of the COVID pandemic, I took a leap of faith. I wrote an email to Renaud Salmon, the Chief Creative Officer of Amouage, expressing my love for the brand. I told him that if he was ever looking for someone truly passionate about perfume, I would love to join the House of Amouage. To my great surprise, he replied just five minutes later, and the rest is history. I’m forever grateful to Renaud for replying to that email, which marked the beginning of the best years of my life.

Since joining Amouage, I have grown as a person in ways I never imagined. As part of the Marketing and Communications team, working as a community manager, I’ve transformed from someone who was quite reserved and shy to a more confident version of myself. I now lead projects that truly bring communities together, such as the annual Omani Rock Rose Harvest, unique Perfume Clubs in Muscat, and other community-focused events to spread the message of High Perfumery. I’m overjoyed by the genuine kindness I receive each day from our communities, and this work is incredibly rewarding to me!

KAI PORTEN

website KAIPORTEN.DE youtube @REALKAIPORTEN instagram @KAI.PORTEN tiktok @KAIPORTEN

German influencer and brand owner Kai Porten has been fascinated by lifestyle, men’s care products, and, most notably, fragrances, for most of his life. What began as a YouTube journey in 2017, where he shared his insights on skincare, beard grooming, and hairstyling, eventually steered him toward the world of perfumes – resulting in the creation of his very own fragrance brand.

I remember when I first started wearing designer fragrances, around the age of 17. Back then, fragrances were more of a commodity to me – something I wore until the bottle was empty. It wasn’t until I turned 25, when my true passion for perfumery ignited, also largely as a result of social media.

While studying physics in 2013, I began posting videos on men’s styling, like beard care and skincare. Slowly, I noticed many English-speaking creators were incorporating fragrances into their content, so I decided to expand my own posts by writing reviews about designer fragrances. I eventually fell in love with my first ‘more expensive’ perfume – Oud Wood by Tom Ford – and from that point on, I was completely hooked on the fragrance industry. Since then, my love for fragrances has only grown.

UNEXPECTED TURNS

As my career as an influencer took off in the following years, I began to focus solely on fragrances, sharing my reviews on YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok. Over time, my audience

expanded, and I even launched my own perfume webshop: kaiporten.de. I also became a perfume trainer in recent years, which has enabled me to work with renowned niche brands like Matiere Premiere and Marc-Antoine Barrois.

Last year, I took a leap with a new venture: creating a community fragrance. I was curious about the process of creating a fragrance from scratch and wanted to try it myself.

I found a perfumer to collaborate with, and soon my creative ideas were transformed into my first fragrance – a woody and floral elixir called Oud 31. When I launched it in March 2023, I honestly thought we would only sell 50 bottles tops.

But all 200 flacons sold out in just four hours! The launch was a huge success and garnered a lot of attention, including from many perfumeries.

Then, somewhere along the way, my curious fragrance venture evolved into my own brand: Kai Porten Parfums Privés. A year after launching my first perfume, I introduced my second fragrance, Cherry X, a juicy and boozy scent.

Recently, I reached another milestone with the release of my third fragrance this autumn. It’s called Beach Klub, and it brings the essence of summer into the autumn season!

SWITCHING GEARS

The fragrance industry has changed enormously since I started creating content. Niche fragrances, once catering to a more mature audience, are now also popular among younger crowds. The days of fragrances being marketed solely to women are behind us, with men becoming increasingly interested in the world of perfume as well. This shift has also opened up many opportunities for smaller brands like mine to enter the market and gain a presence in stores – something that once seemed impossible. Additionally, the importance of authenticity has greatly increased in this industry. As customers are more informed about fragrances than ever before, it’s vital to offer honest reviews and remain true to your audience in this ever-evolving landscape.

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WESSELJAMES KOS Assistant perfumer Wessel-James Kos, also known as James, is a 21-year old with Dutch and French roots. Although fragrances have always been part of his life, his passion for the craft only ignited later on. Now, he is one of the youngest rising talents in the perfume industry, with a strong presence on TikTok and Instagram, where he’s built an impressive audience of over 44,000 followers.

Generation 1 (1969): Piet Kos, perfumer at the Chemical Factory Naarden in the Netherlands

Perfumery has always been in my blood. My greatgranduncle (generation 1) was a perfumer, as were my grandfather (generation 2) and father (generation 3).

Despite growing up surrounded by raw materials and lab samples, my passion for the trade didn’t develop until later. As a child, I actually dreamed of becoming a musician. I even dedicated myself to learning six different instruments – guitar, piano, flute, saxophone, clarinet, and drums. For most of my early years, perfumery was more like something in the background – something I was aware of but never fully engaged with – until I turned 16. At that time, I was working on a personal project for the International Baccalaureate program. Unsure of what to pursue, my father suggested that I create a fragrance, as it was something unique. I spent a year developing this fragrance and, in the process, something clicked. My passion for fragrances began to blossom and I felt the pull of continuing the family tradition. I couldn’t help but think it would be a shame to let it end with the third generation, especially since my two older brothers had no interest in carrying it forward. That’s when I knew I wanted to become a perfumer.

Generation 2 (1985): Jan Kos, perfumer at the Chemical Factory Naarden (which became part of Quest in 1987 and was later acquired by Givaudan in 2007)

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PAVING MY OWN WAY

I took full advantage of my father’s knowledge, absorbing everything I could from him, knowing that many would consider it a privilege to learn from someone like him. At the same time, I started applying to every perfumery company out there. Most didn’t respond, and those that did mostly rejected me. I had a few interviews, but they all led nowhere. It was a tough and confronting process for me, and I was filled with self-doubt, constantly wondering why no one even gave me so much as a smelling test.

Finally, I got a break when one company called me in for an interview. After several meetings, they offered me the position of assistant perfumer. Although I had hoped for a trainee perfumer role, I knew this was a step in the right direction.

Now, you might be thinking: “Why aren’t you working in the same company as your father?” The truth is, I made a conscious choice not to. I knew that working alongside him would lead people to question my abilities and assume I didn’t deserve my position. I realised it would be wiser to carve out my own path elsewhere. That way, if I ever did end up working at the same company as my father, I’d be respected for my own merits.

A REMARKABLE DEBUT

It has been two years since I started working in the fragrance industry. In that time, I won my first project as an assistant perfumer, securing six fragrances for a niche brand!

Alongside this exciting development, I’ve also started creating unique content around fragrance creation on TikTok and Instagram. I saw it as an opportunity to help myself grow while filling a gap in the market, and I had a feeling it would eventually take off. I was right – it did!

I’ve managed to build quite an audience, with some of my videos reaching thousands – even millions – of views.

During my time in the perfume industry, I’ve learned that if you really want something and are determined to get it, you must work twice as hard as everyone else. So, even though I haven’t reached my biggest milestone yet – finding a trainee perfumer position – I’m more determined than ever to achieve it.

Generation 4: Wessel-James Kos, assistant perfumer at Keva Fragrances Europe

instagram, tiktok & youtube @WESSELJAMESK

Generation 3: Wessel-Jan Kos, master perfumer at DSM-Firmenich

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& many more

REMEMBER THE NAME: 2025 BRINGS MANY EXCITING GLOBAL DEVELOPMENTS

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NEWLY

DISCOVERED Looking for new hidden gems in perfumery? Let us introduce you to four brands that caught our eye this season.

THE PERFUME CONNECTION: CONTEMPORARY CREATIONS

The Perfume Connection (also known as TPC), led by Anfas founder Asim Al Qassim, entered the world of fragrances in 2023. The brand’s creations are centred around the theme of connection, symbolising connections to oneself, others, nature, the world, and one’s purpose. These concepts are infused with artistic influences from architecture, design, and modern fragrance creation, resulting in the most unique elixirs.

One such creation is Oud Connection, which celebrates oud across different countries and cultures with a modern touch. Through a fusion of cardamom, green grapefruit, floral notes, patchouli, white musk, and ambroxan, the elixir offers a warm and contemporary fragrance experience.

BUCHART COLBERT: OLFACTIVE MEMOIRS

This new niche fragrance house captures the essence of artistry through olfactive memoirs, led by fragrance designer Sean Colbert. His deep connection to classical music inspires his creations, transforming the melancholic grace of Chopin and the avant-garde contrasts of Berg into true musical compositions on the skin.

The début collection on buchartcolbert.com features six unisex fragrances, ranging from floral to gourmand, woody, and fougère masterpieces. This autumn and winter, don’t miss Lutin Errant when looking for something new and bold, as this dry and woody scent is sure to impress. Faisan d’Or is another scented gem perfect for this season, with its sweet but daring gourmand character. And if you want to add a unique edge to your presence, try Knife Thrower, a crisp fougère that surprises with every whiff.

NEWLY DISCOVERED

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ELYSIAN: WHERE ART MEETS FRAGRANCE

Elysian Parfum, founded by internationally celebrated artist and perfumer Jessi Park, is redefining luxury fragrances with their brand-new Lineage Collection. This collection features 16 hand-crafted scents, merging high art with perfumery, under the artistic direction of Jessi herself.

Each fragrance is created to take you on a sensory journey through moments of magic, memory, and wonder.

Some signature scents are designed to be whimsical and enchanting, such as Fairest of Them All, inspired by a magic mirror and forbidden fruit. Meanwhile, Moonpetals captures the delicate beauty of a moonlit garden with the most ethereal floral notes. If you’re drawn to playful sweetness, Sucre de Soie offers a ravishing treat.

With notes of cotton candy clouds and berries, it adds a mischievous touch to any occasion. Looking for a blend

of spices and warm woods? Then Temple of Echoes is sure to capture your attention, with a fragrance that takes you away to the heart of an ancient sanctuary. If you’re after a cosy fragrance reminiscent of a fireside drink in a dark, intimate lounge surrounded by leather and aged woods, Blackwood and Bourbon is the perfect choice. And last but not least, there’s the award-winning Sonder, the ultimate clean scent for men!

Every single fragrance in the Lineage Collection is crafted from rare ingredients, such as absolutes and resins, to form an olfactive masterpiece. Each flacon comes with a unique scent card, featuring original artwork inspired by Jessi’s own paintings – making these perfumes not just fragrances, but true works of art. Want to discover these scented gems for yourself? The Lineage Collection can be found at elysianparfum.com and will soon also be available in Europe, at Le Parfum Boutique (leparfumboutique.com).

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

ARTIST'O: THE PARISIAN QUEST

Introducing French perfume house Artist’o: a Le Parfum exclusive sneak peek at an exciting debut! Set to launch in May 2025, the much-anticipated fragrance collection Alora is about to be revealed. The collection features five incredible fragrances, as well as candles and home diffusers, ready to enchant all the perfumistas out there. Every creation is inspired by love, family, emotion, beauty, desire, and above all: the power of scent.

The essences are masterfully blended by the distinguished perfumer Helen Prevot and award-winning master perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer. Through their artistry and expertise, Artist’o brings their mission of creating timeless olfactive art, distinguished by niche individuality, to life – not only in this collection, but in the many fragrances yet to be created.

From the moment you touch the handcrafted packaging to the very first spritz of perfume, Artist’o’s creations deliver

an experience that lingers long after the scent has faded. In the meantime, Le Parfum Magazine unveils two standout fragrances for the winter season, offering you a tantalising preview of what’s to come.

Paying homage to the French joie de vivre, Amé is a celebration of fragrant delight. Through a bold blend of gourmand and smoky elements – featuring notes of chocolate, orange, tobacco, rum, and cedarwood – it smells as delicious as it sounds. Another recommendation that’s perfect for capturing the holiday spirit in a flacon is Nue. Inspired by Parisian refinement, it showcases mystical, fruity, and deep nuances, blending luxurious notes of olibanum, apricot, osmanthus, cedarwood, honey, bees wax, amber, and oud.

This is not your typical gourmand fragrance; instead, it dances between sweetness and darkness, leaving behind a warm, woody trail. Stay tuned, as the brand is set to launch in Q2 of next year!

NEWLY DISCOVERED

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CONCENTRATION CRAZE YOUR UPGRADED EDP

Over the years, the fragrance industry has experienced a growing demand for perfumes with a higher percentage of perfume oil. Let’s explore this rising trend and zoom in on one of the perfume houses that has expertly embraced it from the start: Amouage.

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hile highly concentrated fragrances have long been a tradition in Arabic countries, this trend has now also gained global appeal.

More perfume enthusiasts have been gravitating towards something beyond the go-to eau de parfum in the recent years, due to several contributing key factors. One is the growing demand for longerlasting scents, with fragrance lovers seeking essences that endure throughout the day with fewer reapplications. Besides perfume intensity, it has also become trendy to seek out more unique and richer olfactory experiences, often associated with higher perfume concentrations. Today’s fragrance enthusiasts are increasingly interested in premium luxury products with higher prices and perceived value, as is the case with fragrances with higher perfume oil concentrations. For many brands, offering higher concentrations also serves as a way to stand out in the highly competitive perfume industry – in turn motivating the release of fragrances with a higher perfume oil content.

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EXCEPTIONAL EXTRAITS

Amouage is one of the perfume houses driving this trend, exemplified by the release of their Exceptional Extraits collection. This range pushes perfume concentration to new heights, revitalising beloved creations such as Honour 43 Woman, Reflection 45 Man, Interlude 53 Man, and Epic 56 Woman with higher perfume concentration percentages, as indicated by the numbers in the names.

The latest addition to this collection is Guidance 46, crafted by renowned French master perfumer Quentin Bisch. It’s an elevated interpretation of the beloved Guidance from Amouage’s Odyssey Collection.

Renaud Salmon, Amouage’s Chief Creative Officer, explains: “When we completed the original Guidance eau de parfum, which has a concentration of 25%, I just knew there was something truly special about it. So back then, we already wondered if we could make it even better or different, and that’s where the idea for an extrait de parfum came in.” This led to the creation of Guidance Master perfumer Quentin Bisch

46, whose number represents the fragrance’s remarkable 46% concentration – nearly twice the concentration of an eau de parfum. Renaud adds: “Typically, increasing concentration doesn’t necessarily make a fragrance more intense or loud. In fact, it often results in a denser and more intimate scent. We had to keep this in mind with the creation of Guidance 46, as it’s a paradox with both a rich depth and an airy lightness to it. So, as we increased the concentration, we had to carefully preserve that delicate balance which defines the unique character of Guidance.”

GUIDANCE REINVENTED

The idea was not to merely increase the density of Guidance but to enhance the main contrasts in the fragrance and bring them into sharper focus. All the elements had to work in harmony to ensure that the fragrance’s distinctive nuances remained intact. “We kept the ageing process of Guidance relatively short to maintain the brightness of the fragrance throughout the composition,” Quentin Bisch explains. “While we didn’t make any significant changes to the heart of the fragrance, we enhanced the top and base notes, adding more complexity and richness. This gave the scent greater vibrancy and depth, amplifying its strength through the higher perfume concentration without sacrificing the lighter side of the fragrance. Our aim was to create a perfume that pulls others toward the wearer even more than the original Guidance – like a magnetic siren’s call, leaving an unforgettable trail through rooms and streets. I believe we’ve achieved that beautifully.”

“IT HAD TO CREATE A PULL TOWARDS THE WEARER, LIKE A SIREN’S CALL” TRENDING TOPIC

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AS LUMINOUS AS Crafted with a blend of mysterious elements floating between the visible and the invisible, the elixirs from Reinvented Parfums invite you to explore beyond the tangible. What began as an intergalactic journey of five fragrances has now expanded with two new celestial creations waiting to be explored: Ethereal Soul and Ode to 36

Psyche. Ethereal Soul shimmers like the night sky, leaving a trail as intriguing as that of a comet. Bursting with notes of bergamot, lemon, and cherry, it illuminates the darkness.

The cosmic ballet continues with swirls of blackcurrant and raspberry, intertwined with the warmth of amber, musk, and moss. The floral magic of freesia, iris, and jasmine

website REINVENTEDPARFUMS.COM instagram @REINVENTEDPARFUMS

THE COSMOS adds a final touch, like a sprinkle of stardust on your skin.

Ode to Psyche takes you on a journey through the mists of time, paying homage to the brand’s original name, Psyche. Gleaming like a constellation, it paints a nostalgic olfactive picture of geranium, juniper, and pink pepper. As it evolves, the scent reinvents itself with notes of cashmere

wood, patchouli, and cedarwood, before enveloping you in white musk, vetiver, and amber. Cosy and enchanting, this fragrance connects you with nature and transports you to new horizons.

Discover these new releases now at: reinventedparfums.com ADVERTISEMENT

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A DA M O PA R F U M .C O M

BAKHOOR

BLISS

website NICHEPERFUMES.NET instagram @NICHEPERFUMESOFFICIAL

At perfumery chain Niche Perfumes, luxury is more than just a word – it’s an experience.

As soon as you enter one of their thirteen boutiques, you’re welcomed by the rich and intoxicating fragrance of bakhoor, a traditional Middle Eastern incense, instantly transforming the ordinary into something extraordinary.

Niche Perfumes offers a treasure trove of fragrant delights for perfume lovers, both in-store and through their webshop. Beyond their exquisite perfume collection, they also feature a remarkable Middle Eastern fragrant product: bakhoor.

The use of bakhoor dates back centuries and continues to captivate fragrance enthusiasts today with its enchanting aroma. Bakhoor consists of wood chips, usually made from agarwood (also known as oud), which are soaked in a blend of essential oils and aromatic ingredients like resins, ambergris, musk, and sandalwood.

When burned using charcoal or an electric incense burner, bakhoor releases a rich, smoky scent that fills the air with these unique aromas, leaving a long-lasting fragrance.

While often used in mosques and during special occasions, bakhoor can also be enjoyed in the comfort of your home.

Did you know that bakhoor has been an integral part of the beauty routines of women across Arab cultures for centuries? For instance, they use bakhoor while brushing their hair, enabling the fragrance to infuse their locks and create a connection between the physical and the spiritual.

This tradition symbolises femininity, beauty, and grace, often passed down through generations. It is believed that this ritual not only perfumes the hair but also imbues you with the calming and stress-relieving properties of bakhoor.

Intrigued? Now, you can elevate your home ambiance with bakhoor as well, or gift it to your loved ones this holiday season – with a 10% discount. Simply scan the QR code below and enter the code BAKHOOR10 in the relevant section during the checkout.

SCAN & RECEIVE 10% DISCOUNT

*This promotion is valid until the 28th of February, 2025, via: nicheperfumes.net Please note that the discount code only applies to the bakhoor set.

ADVERTORIAL

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DIARY OF A

PERFUMER

Dominique Ropion is a master of modern perfumery at International Flavours and Fragrances (IFF), with a career spanning over four decades and a portfolio that includes iconic creations such as Ysatis for Givenchy, Alien for Thierry Mugler, and Portrait of a Lady for Frédéric Malle. Known for his bold creativity, meticulous attention to detail, and exceptional talent for crafting the most magical white floral fragrances, Ropion has played a pivotal role in shaping both the commercial and niche perfume spaces. In this interview, he reflects on the inspiration behind his most celebrated works, the challenges he’s faced in a competitive industry, and his ongoing passion for pushing the boundaries of olfactory art.

involving numerous trials and adjustments. This process has taught me to embrace the iterative nature of creation and to never rush the development of a scent. Patience allows for the discovery of unique combinations and the perfect balance, ultimately leading to a fragrance that resonates deeply with people.

hen did you first realise that perfumery was your calling?

That was really a gradual realisation. I was familiar with the profession from a very young age, but I only considered it seriously later on. I had a love for scents since childhood and I was also looking for a creative career. This is what set me on the path of becoming a perfumer.

What would you say are your key sources of inspiration when creating a fragrance? Does that depend on whether you are creating a niche fragrance or a so-called commercial perfume?

Nature, art, and personal experiences are my main sources of inspiration. I often draw from the beauty of natural elements, such as flowers, woods, and spices, which provide a rich palette of scents to work with. Art, particularly poetry and literature, also plays a significant role in sparking my creativity. When it comes to commercial perfumes, there’s a need to strike a balance between creativity and broader appeal, ensuring the fragrance resonates with a wider audience while maintaining its distinctiveness. Ultimately, whether niche or commercial, each fragrance is a journey of exploration and expression, aiming to evoke emotions and memories through the power of scent.

You began your perfumery journey at the prestigious Roure Bertrand Dupont school in Grasse, followed by significant roles at Florasynth and IFF. What is the most valuable lesson you’ve learned throughout your career, and how has it shaped your approach to fragrance creation?

Patience and persistence have been the most important lessons for me. Perfumery is an art that requires meticulous attention to detail and a deep understanding of the raw materials. Each fragrance creation is a journey, often

How has your creative style evolved over the years and how would you characterise your signature approach to fragrance creation today?

My work is often described as both refined and daring, with a focus on creating fragrances that evoke deep emotions and memories. My work is influenced by the zeitgeist, reflecting the spirit of the times. I blend traditional elements with modern twists to create scents that are timeless but contemporary.

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INTERVIEW

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You’re known for taking bold risks in your fragrance creations, resulting in several iconic and trend-setting perfumes. In your opinion, what is it about these scents that made them so influential? How do you reflect on these achievements in your career?

The success of a fragrance is never predictable, and that’s what makes this craft so beautiful. Creating new, groundbreaking notes is at the heart of what I do. In essence, my career has been about daring to innovate while staying true to the rich traditions of perfumery.

Every fragrance I’ve crafted is a reflection of my creative journey, and I feel deeply fortunate to have had the chance to share these olfactory experiences with the world.

by the earthy richness of patchouli and sandalwood. This combination creates a fragrance that is both bold and sophisticated, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and modern allure.

You are also known for creating Alien for Thierry Mugler, a fragrance that has become iconic in the perfume world.

Could you share the story behind its creation? What challenges or breakthroughs did you experience during its development?

Creating Alien for Thierry Mugler was a unique and exhilarating journey and a memorable experience. One of the main challenges was to develop a fragrance as innovative and powerful as Angel, but in a completely opposite register. Alien needed to make its mark and, in a way, dethrone Angel. Looking at its impact today, I’m proud to see how it has become an iconic fragrance, continuing to captivate wearers worldwide.

“EACH FRAGRANCE IS A PIECE OF MY STORY AND I AM GRATEFUL FOR EVERY MOMENT”

With a career spanning over four decades, what moments or achievements do you consider the highlights of your journey in the perfume industry so far?

Ysatis by Givenchy was my stepping stone into the industry in 1984, and it marked the beginning of a long and rewarding journey. Throughout my career, I have been honoured with numerous accolades, including the Lifetime Achievement Award, several Fragrance Foundation Awards, and being named Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres. These recognitions have been humbling. Each fragrance is a piece of my story, and I am grateful for every moment of this incredible journey.

One of your most iconic niche fragrance creations is Portrait of a Lady by Frédéric Malle, a dear friend of yours and a renowned niche perfume brand. Why do you think it resonates so deeply with so many people?

The composition of Portrait of a Lady is centred around an opulent overdose of Turkish rose, complemented by warm, spicy notes of clove and cinnamon, and grounded 42

Among all the fragrances you’ve created, is there one that holds a particularly special place in your heart?

Choosing a favourite is like asking a father to pick his favourite child. However, I must admit, I find myself repeatedly drawn to Oud Aquilaria by Omanluxury.

This fragrance instantly transports me to Oman.

Are there any specific ingredients or notes that appeal to you the most?

What truly matters is how the ingredients interact and harmonise with one another – the magic of a fragrance lies in the combination of raw materials. That said, I do have a fondness for IFF’s in-house natural ingredients,

Photography: Frédéric Malle, Portrait of a Lady

called LMR Naturals. They are the finest natural ingredients a perfumer can work with, offering exceptional quality and depth.

What are some of the most significant challenges you’ve encountered in your career, whether creatively or technically?

The fragrance industry is incredibly competitive, with many brilliant creatives. One of the biggest challenges has been standing out in such a talented crowd.

Working closely with other experts at IFF, exchanging ideas, and continually learning from one another has been essential.

In your free time, do you ever create personal fragrances for yourself or your family?

In my free time, I try to give my nose a break – but inevitably, I can’t resist experimenting. Sometimes I’ll create something special for my family, though they’ve learned to be my toughest critics!

What advice would you give aspiring perfumers who are just starting out in the perfume industry?

My advice would be to cultivate patience and curiosity. Perfumery is a long journey that demands not only creativity but also a deep understanding

of both the art and science of fragrance creation. A strong foundation is essential – attend a reputable perfumery school to master the basics, much like a musician practices their scales. It’s also crucial to seek mentorship. The guidance and wisdom of experienced perfumers can be invaluable in your growth. I have the privilege of mentoring students at IFF and I’ve seen firsthand how this support helps develop talent.

Passion, perseverance, and openness to feedback will pave your way to success in the vast and ever-evolving world of perfumery.

Are there any upcoming projects or fragrances you’re working on, that you can share some insights about?

Yes, of course. I am thrilled to announce my latest collaboration with the remarkable brand, Omanluxury.

This exquisite niche brand aims to encapsulate the rich culture and hidden treasures of Oman in every bottle.

Having visited Oman, I was captivated by its stunning landscapes and warm-hearted people. Currently, I am working on their new collection, which features five distinct variants. Our goal is to craft five unique scents that evoke different emotions, each infused with signature Omani ingredients, such as frankincense, which is a truly magnificent ingredient that I love to work with.

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NOSY ’BOUT

NOTES TRENDING SCENTS The approaching winter season is the perfect time to introduce captivating fragrances that complement the colder months. In collaboration with global fragrance house CPL Aromas, we’re highlighting three trending fragrance notes that deserve a place in your winter fragrance wardrobe!

MYSTICAL PALO SANTO

As mystical trends continue to captivate the imagination of perfume lovers, Palo Santo wood is enjoying its moment in the spotlight. Renowned for its spiritual and aromatic properties, this sacred ingredient is deeply ingrained in rituals, its name meaning ‘holy wood’ in Spanish. Palo Santo holds a revered place in South American traditions, and the trees from which it is derived are protected, with strict prohibitions against cutting them down. Instead, the Palo Santo essential oils used in fragrances are harvested from branches that have naturally fallen and aged, ensuring a sustainable and respectful extraction process. This careful approach not only preserves the environment but also adds to the wood’s value, as its availability is limited by the tree’s natural lifecycle, which is respected throughout the harvesting process.

Besides its mysterious woody aroma with subtle sweet nuances, Palo Santo also carries a citrus facet and a hint of mint, reminiscent of liquorice. The essence has considerable depth and warmth, contrasted by a refreshing element that creates a calm and comforting ambiance. Often blended with other winter notes, like spices and balsamic resins – as seen in Tom Ford’s Ébène Fumé – Palo Santo is a wonderfully warm and relaxing fragrance note, perfect for the colder months.

To enable you to enjoy the distinctive scent of Palo Santo wood without impacting the beloved trees, CPL Aromas has introduced an AromaSpace base of this wood, respecting its sacred nature and cultural significance. This process involves headspace analysis and expert perfumery to recreate the aroma with remarkable authenticity.

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UNRAVELLING OUD

GOING BANANAS

The banana, a familiar tropical fruit, is now finding an unexpected place in the fragrance world, especially during the autumn season. Reimagined beyond its typical fruity sweetness, banana notes are being infused with rich autumnal spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and brown sugar, giving this ingredient a new twist. The result is indulgent scents reminiscent of baked banana bread, caramelised banana dishes, and popular warm desserts from around the world.

Paired with comforting aromas like vanilla, honey, and chocolate, banana creates a nostalgic and inviting fragrance, especially within the gourmand range.

With gourmand scents resurging in recent years – now featured in many premium products and niche fragrances – the banana note has taken on a prominent role in sweet and fruity compositions, offering a sense of warmth, comfort, and indulgence that enhances everyday routines.

While banana isn’t an ingredient that can be sourced naturally for fragrances, its scent can be artfully reproduced using a blend of benzyl and amyl esters, along with pear and buttery/lactonic and spicy notes.

With this palette of aromas, a well-rounded banana accord can be created, resulting in fragrances that smell as delectable as the fruit itself – such as Ambrosia Imperiale by Navitus Parfums.

website CPLAROMAS.COM instagram @CPL_AROMAS

Oud (or oudh) is a fragrance ingredient deeply rooted in Middle Eastern culture that has gained significant popularity worldwide. Also known as agarwood, this precious wood is formed when the Aquilaria tree becomes infected with a specific type of mould, which imparts its distinct and revered aroma. Due to its rarity, oud is not only highly sought after and valuable, but also protected under CITES regulations.

The finest oud originates from India, but notable varieties from Cambodia, Laos, and Indonesia also offer fascinating profiles for fragrance creation.

Known for its luxurious, complex scent, oud is prized for its rich and varied aromas, ranging from deep animalic notes to dry, smoky, and woody accents. Some even detect hints of fermented cheese, incense, dry fruits, or caramel in this fragrance note. Due to its versatile character, oud is an essential component in high-end perfumes, such as the enchanting Harrods worldwide exclusive Rude Oud by Fragrance Du Bois. Just a small amount of oud can elevate a fragrance, adding warmth and depth, often blending seamlessly with notes like rose or bergamot.

For many Middle Easterners, oud is more than just a fragrance – it’s an integral part of daily life and cultural rituals. For many, its scent evokes memories of childhood, celebrations, and moments spent in bustling souks. Whether used as a symbol of hospitality in a majlis (traditional gathering space) or burnt as incense (bakhoor) in homes, oud is inextricably linked to the Middle Eastern identity, cultural heritage, and opulence. It’s no surprise, then, that even today, oud continues to transcend borders, offering a sensory journey into the heart of the Middle East with every luxurious note.

website THSPIRITOFDUBAI.COM instagram @THESPIRITOFDUBAI contact CUSTOMERSERVICE@THSPIRITOFDUBAI.COM

ESSENCES

OF HOME

From the cosiest candles to luxurious diffusers – discover the latest home collection launches to elevate your space this cold season.

MODERN DREAM

M. Micallef has just launched a brand-new home collection: Collection Maison! The collection features three essential scents, available in home sprays, diffusers, and scented candles, to immerse you and your home in the most precious aromas. Encased in matte white ceramic with golden accents, these dreamlike essences with their modern touch will transform your interior into an olfactive sanctuary.

Create a cosy wooden cabin atmosphere with Weekend à Aspen, featuring a blend of incense, caramel, cardamom, vanilla, and sandalwood. For a more sparkling and aromatic experience, Aventura Riviera delights the senses with its bright freshness of citrus and the calming aroma of lavender, transporting you to the South of France. If you’re seeking something bolder, go for Nuit à Paris. With its sensual swirl of leather, spices, flowers, and red fruits, it brings the romance of the City of Love into your home. Collection Maison, M. Micallef, available in home sprays, diffusers, and scented candles

A TOUCH OF PARIS

French perfume house Alexandre J welcomes the La Maison Collection, featuring five stunning scented candles crafted

by Italian master wax craftsmen and Parisian perfumers.

Each piece combines gilded metal with natural colours, ranging from almost-white to deep grey-greens. Adorned with artisanal gold patterns crafted to catch your eye, the candles pay homage to the splendour of the Art Nouveau era. The candle scents and designs perfectly complement the Art Nouveau Collection and add a new dimension to your Alexandre J fragrance ritual. Mint Patchouli offers an aromatic, woody warmth, while Eternal Incense brings a smoky depth. Divine Vanilla delivers a sweet gourmand aroma, White Pear enchants with florals and musk, and Spicy Cherry spreads a vibrant and spicy, fruity twist. The collection is poised to expand further with the upcoming launch of new home diffusers. La Maison Collection, Alexandre J, 220 grams, €170

COSY COCOON

The Arkani Collection by V Canto has recently introduced four unique and exquisite scented candles, perfect for adding a cosy touch to your home this winter! Each candle showcases the incredible craftsmanship and quality that Cereria Terenzi is known for. Inspired by timeless tales of romance, Arkano degli Amanti features a captivating composition of African rosehip, saffron, and jasmine, evoking the passion and beauty of enduring love.

The olfactive talisman Arkano della Fortuna is a homage to prosperity and hope, spreading bright and bold notes of Calabrian citrus, lavender, and Mexican frangipani. Arkano del Sole brings the warmth of the sun into your home, infusing your space with deep notes of patchouli and oud.

Meanwhile, Arkano delle Stelle adds a hint of mystery to your interior, blending magnolia with warm ambergris.

Already head over heels with these candles? The same delightful scents are also available as extraits de parfum, so you can surround yourself with their charming aromas both at home and on the go! The Arkani Collection, V Canto, 200 grams, €200

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

SCENTED MEMORIES

As Nobile 1942 so beautifully states: “No smell is more imprinted in our olfactory memory than that of our home.”

For over 20 years, this brand has been crafting fragrances that evoke deep emotions. Beyond their exceptional perfumes, Nobile 1942 has a special home collection called Casa Nobile, designed to remind us that our homes are our personal sanctuaries, deserving of warmth, comfort and beauty.

Following their six beautifully-scented home diffusers, the collection is enriched with a new addition: Mora Selvatica. This diffuser evokes the essence of the lush Italian forest, blending wild fruits with freshly cut grass and soft, white musk. Fresh, fruity, and warm, it exudes the same heartwarming spirit as the holiday season. Mora Selvatica, Nobile 1942, available in 100, 200, 500, and 1000 ml, €35-€125 INSPIRATION

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photography PARFUMS DE MARLY

VIOLET IS THE NEW

CHIC

THE UNTOLD STORY OF

MONTALE Since their establishment, the perfume houses Montale and Mancera have made a remarkable impact on the fragrance world, earning their place among the top niche perfume houses. Renowned for blending Eastern and Western influences, they have mastered the art of creating bold, luxurious scents that transcend the ordinary. But behind the allure of these iconic fragrances lies a story rarely told – until now. In this exclusive interview with Le Parfum Magazine, perfumer Pierre Montale, joined by his daughter and artistic director Amélie Montale, reveals the secrets behind the magic of these groundbreaking brands.

H

ow and when did your passion for fragrances begin?

Pierre: My passion for fragrances began at a very young age, largely influenced by my environment. My mother ran a beauty salon in the north of France, which introduced me to the world of beauty products and scents. This early fascination was further nurtured by my half-sister, who, at the time, owned Comptoir Sud Pacifique, a brand known for its exotic fragrances. During this period, I had the opportunity to introduce the scent of Monoï, which wasn’t yet widely known in Europe. However, it was

a pivotal encounter with the Middle East during a single, life-changing journey that truly transformed my approach to fragrance creation. There, I was inspired by the rich olfactory traditions and the powerful fragrances built around intense ingredients like oud wood, incense, and musk. The spiritual significance of the fragrances also intrigued me. Oud wood, for instance, is often regarded as a bridge between the human and the divine. This inspired me to create fragrances that transcend mere olfactory pleasure, offering a truly sensory and emotional experience.

Amélie: I grew up surrounded by fragrances, so my love for this world developed naturally from a very young age. With a father like Pierre Montale, it was almost inevitable! Our home was always filled with incredible scents, but what fascinated me most was watching my father create – working with raw materials and then using technology to bring his ideas to life. It was a magical process for me. After initially pursuing photography, I gained valuable experience working with other brands in the perfume industry. I then realised that photography was more of a passion than a career, which led me to explore different creative avenues. It was during my time at Creapole School in Paris that I discovered my true calling: perfumery. Returning to the family brand not only allowed me to follow this passion but also brought me closer to my father, and the journey has been a true joy ever since.

What makes oud so special to you?

Pierre: I was immediately captivated by its richness, complexity, and unparalleled depth. Oud wood offers an endless palette for olfactory creations, unveiling woody, smoky, and even animalic notes, depending on how it’s concentrated or blended. It also has the rare ability to evoke intense, almost spiritual emotions, creating a deep connection with the wearer. Initially, when I introduced oud in my creations, the reception was… well, let’s say, quite surprising! Some of my earliest clients found it too raw or overwhelming, and sometimes even reminiscent of undesirable scents. However, oud wood has since become a key ingredient in my creations, lying at the heart of Montale’s identity.

“WHEN I FIRST INTRODUCED OUD IN MY CREATIONS, SOME OF MY EARLIEST CLIENTS FOUND IT TOO RAW OR OVERWHELMING”

During your travels to the Middle East, you were granted access to exclusive, confidential materials through the royal family. It is rumoured that you crafted bespoke fragrances for them, as well as for celebrities and other prominent figures. What were some of the most remarkable fragrances you created and for whom?

Pierre: Indeed, the Middle East and its deeply rooted olfactory traditions gave me the opportunity to work with rare and precious materials, often reserved for an elite circle. Through privileged connections, I had the INTERVIEW

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honour of creating bespoke fragrances for members of the royal family, celebrities, and other prominent figures. One of the most remarkable creations I crafted during this period is Aoud Queen Roses, a composition that blends oud wood with Damask rose. This fragrance perfectly represents the balance between the strength of oud and the delicacy of rose, paying homage to the Oriental culture where power and elegance coexist harmoniously. It was created for a royal family member seeking something truly unique and deeply personal.

Another memorable creation is Black Aoud, a fragrance built around oud, musk, and amber. This perfume is a bold and dark interpretation of oud, inspired by the mysteries and depth of the Middle Eastern deserts. It was crafted for a prominent figure in the world of business and culture, someone who desired a fragrance that was daring and evocative of the region’s ancient history and opulence. These two perfumes allowed me to push the boundaries of Western perfumery by introducing rare and precious ingredients. It also helped shape the vision that led to the founding of the Montale perfume house in 2003.

For many years, you remained somewhat of an enigma in the perfume world. What fuelled this choice to stay under the radar and what has changed for you in recent years as you became more widely known?

Pierre: It’s true that for many years, I chose to remain discreet in the world of perfumery. I wanted my creations to speak for themselves and enable people to connect directly with my fragrances, without my personal identity or story overshadowing the product. The mystery surrounding me also helped to preserve a certain authenticity, allowing my creative process to remain free from outside pressures. However, in recent years, things have changed. My daughter Amélie, who is the artistic director, encourages me to step out of the shadows a bit more and share our journey with the public. So, I’m happily playing along and discovered that it’s actually a wonderful opportunity to reveal more of Montale and Mancera’s universe with the world.

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To what extent would you say Montale is positioned as a niche fragrance brand? And how do you see Montale’s positioning within the perfume industry?

Pierre: Montale is positioned as a niche fragrance brand, but we follow trends with our own unique signature.

While we use luxurious, rare ingredients typical of niche perfumery, we’ve made our creations more accessible to perfume enthusiasts and collectors. This approach allows us to stay creative and original while reaching a broader audience, without ever compromising on quality or authenticity.

Montale is known for its distinctive packaging, especially the unique design of its flacons. What was the inspiration behind the design?

Pierre: The inspiration behind Montale’s iconic flacons comes from the large aluminium bottles traditionally used by perfumers to store and preserve their precious fragrances, much like winemakers store their wine.

Aluminium is ideal for protecting the perfume from light and heat, allowing it to macerate and develop its full richness over time. This material not only preserves the quality and integrity of the fragrance, but

also emphasises the craftsmanship and care behind each creation. Our flacons are a modern nod to this time-honoured tradition, reflecting our dedication to creating perfumes that age beautifully, like a fine wine, while capturing the essence of luxury and longevity.

“WE ARE DEDICATED TO CREATING FRAGRANCES THAT AGE AS BEAUTIFULLY AS A FINE WINE”

You and Amélie are the noses behind the fragrances of both Montale and Mancera. What would you say are the defining characteristics of the fragrance styles of these two brands, and how do they differ?

Pierre: Montale is renowned for its unique fusion of opulent Middle Eastern ingredients, exceptional longevity, and the sophistication of French perfumery.

This fusion of two worlds – tradition and modernity – has shaped the brand into what it is today: a bridge between Eastern mystique and European elegance. The story of Mancera began with the desire to offer something different – a project to explore new creative horizons.

It was a way for me to move beyond the strong Middle Eastern influences that define Montale while continuing to work with noble raw materials like oud, but in a more modern and bold approach. So while Montale remains rooted in its Middle Eastern DNA, Mancera moves away from these roots to explore more contemporary and personal territories, guided by Amélie’s vision. This

There have been several new developments at Montale, including the opening of new official Montale boutiques. What inspired this expansion, and where can perfume aficionados now find these exclusive Montale boutiques?

Pierre: The expansion of Montale with new official boutiques reflects our desire to bring a more personal and immersive experience to our clients. As we offer such a wide variety of creations, we decided to provide an in-store experience that includes personalised advice and allows us to share the unique stories behind each fragrance. In addition to our boutiques in Paris, Dubai, and Riyadh, we recently opened a location in Amsterdam and Cannes as well. The latter has a special place in our heart as Amélie was born there.

Our deep connection to the South of France, with its sunny landscapes and elegant atmosphere, has inspired much of our work. The opening in this iconic city, known for its luxury and refinement, felt like a natural way to enhance that connection.

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Mancera stands as a unique collaboration between father and daughter. What inspired this venture?

Pierre: Mancera came about because I saw something special in Amélie. I noticed early on that she had a good nose and a unique sense of style. So, instead of just guiding her, I thought, why not create something together? This collaboration was a chance for me to mentor her, but also to let her take the reins and bring her own bold ideas into the mix. And believe me, she did!

Amélie: It’s true! I wasn’t planning on jumping into the perfume world at first, but when my father suggested we collaborate, I couldn’t resist. I joined Mancera at a key turning point and together we took the brand in an exciting new direction. I had many ideas, and Pierre trusted me completely, which was truly empowering.

The beauty of our collaboration is that we instinctively understand each other when it comes to the brand’s DNA and signature. This enables us to maintain a shared

vision while also staying true to Mancera’s identity. Our creative partnership has grown strong over the years and it’s a privilege to work with such loyal and dedicated people. Together, we’ve built a wonderful family.

We’ve heard whispers that Montale and Mancera have an exciting time of launches ahead. Could you share more about these new developments?

Pierre: With Montale, we are thrilled to expand our fragrance collections while also venturing into new product lines. For our iconic Arabians collection, we will be unveiling Arabians Musk. This highly anticipated fragrance honours Middle Eastern traditions with a sophisticated twist of musk, dates, honey, and tonka bean. It’s a true treasure for lovers of oriental scents.

Additionally, we’re updating our luxurious candles, bringing the Montale olfactory universe into your home.

After 20 years, we’re also introducing new eco-friendly pouches to replace our signature black ones that have contributed to the brand’s image. This evolution aligns with our commitment to sustainability while allowing our customers to carry their favourite perfumes in style.

Amélie: Mancera also had some fantastic releases recently, such as Cherry Cherry. This unisex cherry fragrance has been a fun ‘risk’ – and a huge success! Cinque Terre brings the Italian coast to life with sea salt and sunshine – like a holiday in a bottle. As for Fig Me Up, it’s my personal favourite. It was inspired by a childhood memory with Pierre. While walking through a fig orchard, my father picked a fig, handed it to me, and said, “If happiness had a smell, it would be this.” That moment stayed with me, and the scent of ripe figs became the heart of Fig Me Up, blending nostalgia with a playful freshness. We’re also expanding into home fragrances with luxurious diffusers, bringing Mancera’s bold and rich scents into your living space to create a cosy, inviting atmosphere with a signature touch. So stay tuned!

instagram @MONTALE & @MANCERA website MONTALEPARFUMS.COM & MANCERAPARFUMS.COM

balance between our two brands and respective visions enriches our work, enabling us to create distinct and equally captivating olfactory universes.

THE FUTURE OF

FRAGRANCE CREATION The use of artificial intelligence (or AI) for fragrance creation is no longer a futuristic concept – in fact, it’s already transforming the perfume industry with mind-blowing techniques! Givaudan Fragrances, one of the most renowned fragrance and flavour creation companies in the industry, is at the forefront of AI innovations for fragrance creation purposes.

From translating scents into colour patterns to using AI-powered tools that help perfumers in their creative process, this company is leading the way in innovating the perfume industry. In this article, we’ll introduce you to two of Givaudan’s cutting-edge tools that are reimagining the way perfumes are created.

T

he use of AI can be traced back all the way to the 1950s, when it was first seen as a formal field of study. Since then, it has gained a lot of attention and was developed further into expert systems, designed to replicate human decision making. However, AI truly began

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gaining momentum in the 1990s. A historical moment occurred in 1997 when IBM’s Deep Blue, a chess-playing computer, defeated the reigning world champion Garry Kasparov in a chess match – putting the spotlight on the remarkable potential of AI. This milestone sparked further advancements, leading to many breakthroughs in deep learning and neural networks, particularly in image and speech recognition (such as with Google’s AlphaGo in 2016 and OpenAI’s ChatGPT in 2018). Fast forward to today, AI continues its rapid growth and has already revolutionised many fields – including the perfume sector!

The year 2019 marked a turning point for AI in the fragrance industry, as several AI-powered tools entered the scene for the very first time. Among the pioneers was Givaudan, one of the first fragrance companies to introduce a groundbreaking artificial intelligence tool: Carto.

photography GIVAUDAN website GIVAUDAN.COM instagram @GIVAUDANPERFUME

UNLOCKING CREATIVITY

The introduction of Carto ushered in a new era of fragrance creation. This innovative tool combines centuries of perfume research and expertise into a single, powerful resource, maximising olfactory performance at the height of a perfumer’s creativity.

Carto seamlessly merges science and technology, featuring an extraordinary ‘Odour Value Map’ that transforms the fragrance creation process into an engaging and interactive experience. This visual representation of ingredients invites perfumers to create new accords in a game-like manner, making the process much more fun and intuitive compared to traditional spreadsheets and olfactory pyramids. With just a few taps on the touchscreen, perfumers can draft a formula that is visually represented with distinctive colours and molecular shapes that highlight the ingredient palette.

Maurizio Volpi, president of Fragrance & Beauty, explains: “It is exciting to see Carto coming to life as it truly evolves the way perfumers create. The system allows them to bring together physico-chemical science and technology to maximise the use of our palette of ingredients while making experimentation simpler and fun. It brings to life their ideas, inspirations, and creative concepts in a very efficient way, while eliminating

repetitive tasks. The role of the perfumer remains at the centre of creation, with Carto serving as the digital tool to enhance their creative work.”

INSTANT SAMPLING

Where perfumers once mixed fragrance components one by one, using a traditional perfume organ with hundreds of essences at their disposal, Carto has transformed this process with a specialised instant-sampling robot. This robot creates samples using real ingredients in finelytuned formulas, enabling perfumers to experiment with fragrances effortlessly and without the delays of traditional sampling methods.

Carto is used across all of Givaudan’s fragrance creative centres, enabling perfumers to integrate the tool into their development processes. For example, in Givaudan’s Digital Factory in central Paris, which opened in October 2024. This space is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, designed to push the boundaries of fragrance creation for Givaudan’s experts, partners, and clients worldwide.

Since its launch, the tool has integrated more consumer insights, helping experts to further refine their creative fragrance accords. Carto has positively impacted the perfume industry and paved the way for other AI tools to enhance the fragrance creation process – including the recently introduced Myrissi™.

TRENDING TOPIC

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FRAGRANCE DECODER

In January 2023, Givaudan unveiled the patented neuroscience algorithm Myrissi™. This technology combines over 35 years of expertise in neuroscience with more than 25,000 consumer insights and the power of AI. Through extensive consumer research and over a decade of development, the algorithm has accurately mapped the spontaneous olfactory connections with colours and emotions.

This foundation of crucial data allows Myrissi™ to predict consumers’ emotional responses during the fragrance creation process, making it the first sensorial perfume decoder. As the tool reveals strategic insights and identifies the most effective emotional and visual cues that resonate with clients, it opens up a myriad of new possibilities for fragrance creators.

RELAXING HAPPY

INVIGORATING PEACEFUL

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SCENT = MOOD

How does it work? Myrissi™ applies a unique ‘feel colours and smell emotions’ approach to fragrance creation. By dividing the olfactory universe into mood archetypes, the algorithm creates a new olfactory playground with the goal to craft fulfilling scented journeys and moods.

With a chemical composition as its starting point, Myrissi™ analyses the fragrance structure and decodes it into corresponding colours and moods. Likewise, when starting from a colour palette, Myrissi™ can generate matching fragrance suggestions. All this data is used to craft detailed emotional mood boards and visual concepts, spanning everything from packaging to campaign storytelling. Through these materials, consumers’ emotions and preferences are translated into a more complete and consistent expression. This, in turn, deepens the emotional understanding of consumers’ olfactory perceptions and enhances the overall fragrance experience.

The algorithm also unlocks new opportunities for Givaudan’s business clients, enabling them to align marketing briefs and business goals with the fragrance creation process. Maurizio Volpi comments: “Myrissi™ represents a major shift for the industry. As e-commerce remains a key channel for customers, we must address the need for a digital olfactive experience – something that was previously impossible. With Myrissi™, we enable consumers to ‘smell’ visuals and colours that evoke the same emotions as the perfumes they encounter. This technology also enables Givaudan to support impactful marketing strategies for our clients by aligning product designs with their fragrances, creating a more delightful and fulfilling consumer experience.”

SYMPHONY F A MIDDLE EASTERN

Ojar was founded by Sheikha Hind Bahwan, a widely respected Omani personality and entrepreneur, to express her passion for perfumery and her desire to pay tribute to the rich heritage and culture of Oman. The brand spotlights this country’s fragrant wonders, seamlessly blending tradition with modern elegance.

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ragrances have historically played a significant role in the culture of the Arabian Peninsula, symbolising hospitality and status, while also serving as a form of personal expression. Ojar blends this rich tradition and influences with modern perfumery, combining the best of both worlds. The scents are woven together via six key ingredients, including sandalwood, oud, and musk.

Alongside these ingredients, three raw materials form the foundation of the brand, paying homage to Oman’s perfumed treasures: the famous rose of Jebel Akdhar, the golden honey of Rustaq, and the sacred Dhofar frankincense, which has been highly valued for centuries.

With a focus on craftsmanship, sustainability, and the finest raw materials, Ojar creates the most exclusive fragrance experiences. Each scent tells a unique story, evoking emotions, sparking memories, and fostering deep personal connections.

LAYERS OF LUXURY

Known for their expertise in the art of fragrance layering, Ojar embraces this ancient Arabic tradition, enabling customers to craft bespoke personalised scent combinations that reflect their unique perfume taste.

With this in mind, the collection is divided into eau de parfums, absolute perfume oils, and body oil mists. Each product plays a role in a luxurious fragrance experience, starting with the application of the absolute as a foundation. The eau de parfum then follows, enabling you to layer and blend different scents together to complement the base and give it a signature touch.

website OJAROFFICIAL.AE instagram @OJAROFFICIAL

A FRAGRANT JOURNEY

The widely acclaimed Wood Whisper is vivid and alluring, balancing creamy sandalwood with juicy plum. Eagle Eyed Stranger is a bold and charismatic perfume, where frankincense from Dhofar takes centre stage with smoky and spicy notes. The resinous fragrance Encens Cuivre is our recommendation for the winter season. It offers a warm and mystical sillage, combining frankincense with vanilla and other precious resins from around the world.

LAUNCH ALERT

The Honey Collection just welcomed its latest addition: Solar Flair. Inspired by the golden richness of honey and the warmth of sunlight, this fragrance is lively and energising, offering a bright and uplifting scent experience.

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photography FRAGRANCE DU BOIS

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1 MORNING MUSCS

If you adore soft musk and are seeking a truly special gift this holiday season, Alexandre J has the most beautiful set for you. This luxurious box contains a full-size 100 ml flacon of Morning Muscs and six mini fragrances (8 ml), representing a variety of fragrance families.

It’s the perfect present for any musk enthusiast seeking an extra touch of indulgence.

Morning Muscs Value Set, Alexandre J, 100 ml + 6 x 8 ml, €185

YOUR SCENTED

GIFT GUIDE

photography PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

Searching for the most exquisite, scented gifts? Discover a selection of enchanting fragrant treasures below, featuring everything from beautifully curated gift sets to delightful scented candles and the most mesmerising advent calendars. All designed to make your gift-giving experience truly unforgettable!

2 2 TINY TREASURES

If you adore miniature perfumes and have a soft spot for D.S. & Durga’s creations,

then you’re in for a treat! This holiday season, the brand offers a stunning deluxe box set featuring six delightful miniature fragrances in 10 ml bottles: I Don’t Know What, Pistachio, Debaser, Jazmín Yuçatan, Cowboy Grass, and Radio Bombay. A perfect gift to find under the Christmas tree or a thoughtful present for a special someone.

D.S. & Durga, Deluxe Box Set, 6 x 10 ml, €185

3 A GIFT A DAY

Molton Brown just released a stunning limited-edition advent calendar, crafted by the talented marble artist Natascha Maksimovic. This exquisite set reveals 24 delightful surprises hidden behind charming little doors, showcasing a mix of fragrances, body care, and home products. Adorned with shimmering gold accents and elegantly wrapped in a Molton Brown ribbon, this calendar sparkles just like your Christmas tree and promises to delight your loved ones throughout the festive season! Molton Brown, Advent Calendar, €265

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4 ESSENCES OF SOPHISTICATION

In addition to its enchanting fragrances, Byredo offers an extraordinary, limited-edition set of three scented candles that evoke nostalgia and warmth,

perfect for treating yourself or someone special. From the captivating aroma of Bibliothèque, infused with rich leather notes, the adventurous spirit of Bohemia, and the alluring essence of Burning Rose – each candle is sure to cast a charming spell over your home. These small treasures are ideal for creating a magical atmosphere that lingers long after the flame’s final flicker has subsided.

Byredo, La Selection Bois Mini Candles Set, 3 x 70 grams, €111

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5 ENGLISH CHARMS

Are you or one of your loved ones a devoted fan of Jo Malone? This year, the brand has unveiled a new magical countdown calendar, featuring 25 scented surprises to elevate your festive season.

From seasonal colognes to luxurious mini candles, refreshing bath & body favourites and exquisite

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miniature fragrances – this exclusive gift box has something for everyone. The ultimate gift for anyone looking to dive deeper into the universe of Jo Malone, with new daily discoveries to explore.

Jo Malone, Advent Calendar, €435

6 FIERY AND FLORAL

Maison Crivelli enthusiasts can now delight in their favourite essences – not only as fragrances but also as mesmerising scented candles. The brand has just launched two of its bestsellers as candles, inviting you to infuse your home with the captivating scents of Maison Crivelli. First up is Hibiscus MahaJád, inspired by the soothing aroma of hibiscus tea, enriched with hints of rose, leather, and musk, all beautifully encased in a striking orange glass vessel. If you prefer earthy tones, Oud Maracujá offers a unique, tropical twist on traditional oud, featuring notes of passion fruit that create a vibrant, fiery ambiance. Maison Crivelli, Hibiscus Mahajád and Oud Maracujá scented candle, 190 grams, €65

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JILLIAN SWITZERLAND:

THE ROOTS

OF LOVE Every true perfume lover knows that a fragrance has the power to inspire love and connection. Jillian Switzerland embraces this enchanting quality by crafting an olfactory universe that enhances the experience of love – for yourself, others, and the nature around you. Join us as we go ‘behind the scents’ to uncover Jillian’s story, where the beauty of fragrance meets the magic of love.

G

rowing up amid the lush landscapes of the Northern Delta in Vietnam, Jang Kều (also known as JK) was always surrounded by the vibrant colours and diversity of nature. This environment nurtured her vivid imagination and profound love for the natural world. Inspired by this connection to the earth, she embarked on a mission: to celebrate and share nature’s treasures with the world, while promoting sustainability in order to preserve nature for future generations.

This vision led her to establish UCC Europe, a research and development company for scents and fragrant products, and to launch a prestigious Swiss fragrance label in 2019: Jillian Switzerland.

The name Jillian is derived from ‘Jill’, meaning ‘sweetheart’, and serves as a nod to the brand’s heart and soul: love. But Jillian’s love isn’t just a concept – it’s a story told through intricate layers, much like how a fragrance unfolds through the olfactory pyramid: with top, heart, and base notes. The journey begins with the top layer, symbolising self-love through a scent that reflects personal identity. The heart of Jillian represents the act of sharing love with others, evoking emotions, and forming connections. At the base lies the brand’s foundation: a deep love for nature.

By using natural essences, Jillian supports the sustainability movement, promoting reforestation and climate-positive practices. Each fragrance encapsulates these three layers of love – love for yourself, others, and the world around us – transforming the perfumes into meaningful, one-of-a-kind experiences.

BEHIND THE SCENTS

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ECO-CONSCIOUS CREATIONS

Fragrance creation is akin to capturing nature’s aromas in a flacon. In this spirit, Jillian honours the earth as the source of all its remarkable raw materials. The brand’s manifesto, “Every scent plants a future,” is brought to life through a commitment to dedicating all profits to reforestation.

The perfumes are also crafted with environmental consciousness in mind, using pure, natural essences and ethically sourced ingredients. The brand prioritises Swiss craftsmanship and transparent sourcing, using only the most premium, sustainable raw materials to create refined, high-quality fragrances.

Many of these scents are developed by the Swiss perfume house LUZI and a handful of skilled perfumers, such as the renowned Mark Buxton, David Chieze, and Mirella Pomina. The minimalistic and modern flacons are from Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, and reflect Swiss minimalism beautifully with their clean lines, understated luxury, and craftsmanship. Each flacon is hand polished and adorned with a zamac cap and a creatively designed label, crafted by artists to narrate the story of every fragrance. The glass bottles are fully recyclable and wrapped in eco-friendly packaging made from recycled paper, reflecting Jillian’s commitment to sustainability.

FROM SCENT TO ART

Beyond an appreciation for the beauty of fragrances, Jillian has a deep connection to the world of art. Through the project When Perfume Meets Art, the brand blends perfumery with contemporary art pieces. This project is linked to the Signature Collection, consisting of three fragrances: the award-winning fragrance Come Out by perfumer Mirella Pomina, Intangible by Mark Buxton, and Fall in Lust by David Chieze.

Perhaps the most eye-catching part of this project is Come Out, which shines a spotlight on the artwork Whoever I Am by artist Le Kinh Tai. The piece symbolises his narrative and journey of self-discovery, with the painting’s vibrant colours serving as a backdrop 72

visible through the transparent glass. The initial 200 bottles even featured the artist’s hand-drawn symbol and signature, adding an extra layer of uniqueness to the fragrance.

A LUXURIOUS VOYAGE

Jillian’s crown jewel is the Luxury Collection, featuring nine exquisite fragrances inspired by the natural beauty of Europe. Each scent captures the charm and essence of a specific region, evoking memories of places, people, stories, and emotions. Blending tradition with innovation, these aromas take you on an olfactory journey, offering a vivid sensory experience. Curious about this collection? Let us introduce you to two musttry fragrances for this season.

SPILL THE TEA Intangible evokes the memory of having tea at the Sacher Hotel in Vienna, when a striking woman in an elegant violet hat gracefully entered the room. With a playful blend of white flowers, suede, musk, vetiver, and ripe peach, the scent captures the vivid and intriguing character of this mysterious lady.

GOURMAND GOODNESS If you’re a fan of the gourmand trend, then you won’t want to miss this fragrance! Inspired by the delicious English high tea, Bewitching Kiss is as irresistible as it sounds. With a blend of rich cream, blackberry, intoxicating jasmine, and sensual rose, this fragrance casts a sweet spell from the very first spritz, leaving you utterly mesmerised.

Q&A WITH

photography JILLIAN SWITZERLAND website JILLIANSWITZERLAND.COM instagram @JILLIANSWITZERLAND

JANG KỀU

What is your professional background in perfumery?

People often wonder why I suddenly entered the perfume industry, but the truth is it wasn’t a sudden decision at all!

Twenty-one years ago, after returning to Vietnam from studying abroad, I unexpectedly became the director of an American flavour and fragrance company. This role allowed me to collaborate with various global fragrance houses and learn the craft from experienced perfumers.

Currently, through my group of companies (GroupG Asia Pacific), I provide innovative fragrance solutions to food and cosmetics manufacturers across Asia.

For many years, my focus was primarily on brand consulting, so few people were aware of my work in fragrances. In 2019, I met Jürg Koller during a business trip and shared details about my Green Happiness program. Not only did he generously support the cause by donating funds to plant 3,000 mangrove trees through my foundation, but the encounter also sparked a conversation about sustaining these efforts through the creation of a perfume brand. The vision was to help connect wearers of the perfume with nature and encourage environmental contributions. Jürg arranged a lunch in Paris with master perfumer Mark Buxton and perfumer David Chieze, setting the foundation for a brand that would seamlessly integrate nature-inspired fragrances – Jillian Switzerland.

What inspired the flacon and cap design?

The design was inspired by a desire to create something that reflects both elegance and nature, serving as more than just a vessel for the fragrances. It had to be a statement piece that reflects the brand’s commitment

to the environment. Each flacon is hand polished to remove any imperfections, resulting in a smooth, flawless surface that creates a stunning ‘crystal clear’ effect, which is further enhanced by the invisible dip tube.

The cap’s design, a unique and dynamic J-shape, is inspired by organic forms found in nature, while the flacon reflects simplicity and sophistication, with subtle artistic touches that elevate it to a luxury status. The goal was to make the bottle feel timeless, something that could be kept as a keepsake and reused rather than discarded.

This aligns with our focus on sustainability, as I believe every part of the product, from the scent to the bottle, should carry a meaningful message.

Which Jillian fragrance is your personal favourite?

My personal favourite fragrance from the Jillian collection is Fall in Lust. This scent is incredibly special to me because it was directly inspired by my reforestation project, Forest Symphony, which is part of my Green Happiness initiative. The fragrance, crafted by the talented perfumer David Chieze, captures the essence of the forest, evoking the deep connection I feel towards nature. It perfectly represents how we can unite art and environmental responsibility within a luxury product.

Fall in Lust represents more than just a fragrance; it’s a symbol of my vision to merge beauty, sustainability, and a commitment to reforestation.

BEHIND THE SCENTS

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ANOMALIA PARIS

THE SCENT OF PASSION AND TRIUMPH

Cenderless and boundless, Sahara 4800 a!igns with our deepest desires to reach for the stars, to conquer our personal Sahara, and savour the sweet scent of success.

Fee! the power. Seize the victory Become the Emperor of the desert.

ANOMALIAPARIS.COM

ESSENCE OF

ELEGANCE

website COISYB.COM instagram @COISY_B

Coisy B, a rising star in the world of niche perfumery, is known for crafting fragrances that evoke deep personal connections through scent.

The brand’s collections, both fresh and bold, are designed to be an extension of the wearer’s personality. Coisy B’s philosophy focuses on simplicity, quality, and emotional resonance, which has earned them a loyal following. Their creations are deeply rooted in the powerful connection between scent and memory, designed to evoke nostalgia while boosting your confidence.

Let’s explore the essence of this intriguing brand and its new fragrance release, Ego!

Coisy B believes that every fragrance should be an extension of the wearer. It should align with your personality and style while empowering you, wherever you go. Each composition should tell a story that resonates on an emotional level, without overwhelming the senses or sacrificing the depth of a perfume. This philosophy of simplicity, combined with attention to detail and highquality ingredients, sets Coisy B apart.

The collection is divided into two lines. One features crystal-clear flacons with fresh and light scents, while the other includes mysterious dark ombré flacons with deeper, woody fragrances. Initially consisting of seven fragrances, Coisy B now welcomes a new addition to the dark-coloured collection: Ego. This brand-new extrait de parfum lasts for up to eight hours after application. At first, it reveals a soft and refreshing palette of bergamot, lavender, black pepper, violet, and jasmine. As it evolves, a cozy and warm base emerges, hugging your skin with amberwood, musk, and vanilla – making it the ideal fragrance companion for the colder months. In 2025, a new Coisy B fragrance will launch in collaboration with master perfumer Christian Provenzano, so stay tuned!

BRANDS TO DISCOVER

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At the heart of these creations is BYMO, a boutique perfume manufacturing company founded by Mohamed Mandouh.

Known for his ability to bring unique olfactive visions to life, Mohamed has worked closely with Coisy B over the past three years to develop many of Coisy B’s signature fragrances, along which the latest launch, Ego. “I wanted to create something for Coisy B that’s accessible and perfectly suited for the winter season,” Mohamed explains. “With the trend of amber and woody fragrances in mind, I crafted a rich, warm, and slightly spicy essence. It’s designed for everyday wear, with a warm yet sweet touch. I believe it’s one of my best fragrance creations this year and I’m thrilled with how it turned out.”

Together with Coisy B, he also brought the minimalist ethos behind the brand to life, for example with Coisy B’s sleek

and elegant flacons. With a design of clean lines and modern packaging, the bottles perfectly balance purity and refinement, enabling the fragrances themselves to take the spotlight.

Since his company’s establishment, Mohamed has created some of the most beautiful brand designs and fragrances for over 70 luxury niche perfume brands. Known for his fragrance creation services with no minimum order quantity, he has supported countless perfume lovers in launching their own perfume brands, without the hefty production costs.

Alongside the newly-launched Ego, you can also discover some more of his creations in Coisy B’s collection, including his two personal favourites: Shades and Waves. Enjoy indulging in these captivating fragrances!

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website BYMO.AE instagram @BYMOOFFICIAL location LEVEL 3, BOULEVARD PLAZA TOWER 1, DOWNTOWN DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

BEHIND THE SCENES

website MINDGAMESFRAGRANCE.COM instagram @MINDGAMESFRAGRANCE

CHECKMATE Inspired by the strategic depth of chess, Mind Games transforms the art of perfumery into a hypnotic and innovative experience. Each fragrance in the collection is crafted with bold scent profiles and artistic flacons that resemble pieces on a chessboard, telling a story that builds layer by layer. Like a game of chess, the scents challenge the wearer to engage thoughtfully. Are you the kind of player who makes bold, decisive moves from the very start? Then the fragrance Checkmate might be your perfect match,

with its lively burst of champagne, dark tobacco, and strong bourbon mirroring your swift and daring approach.

Or do you prefer to take your time, calculate your every move, and keep your strategy hidden? Then the perfume Grand Master is for you, with its subtle and calculated harmony of florals, coffee, incense, myrrh, and dark woods, striking powerfully at just the right moment.

Discover the collection now at: mindgamesfragrance.com ADVERTORIAL

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TRICKS OF THE TRADE:

CO2 EXTRACTION Although perfumery has a long history, dating back as far as ancient Egypt, CO2 extraction (also known as supercritical fluid extraction or SFE) is a relatively new extraction method.

Rooted in modern science, this innovative technique has made it possible to capture the purest and most nuanced qualities of raw materials that were previously difficult or impossible to extract.

F

or this article, we collaborated with Mane, a family-owned French fragrance company known for its expertise in CO2 extraction.

This technique led to their innovative Jungle Essence™ collection. Join us as we go behind the scenes to explore the complex details of this advanced extraction process.

Mane, a global leader in the fragrance and flavour industry, has likely already been a part of your daily routine through one of its creations. With over 150 years of expertise, Mane is renowned for its groundbreaking advancements in two key areas: technology and creativity.

Mane’s commitment to innovation and creativity also shines through in its Jungle Essence™ collection, a novel range of ingredients crafted using CO2 supercritical fluid extraction. This technique captures raw materials in their most authentic form, producing some of the most extraordinary fragrance ingredients.

There are many different extraction techniques, and each one captures different facets of raw materials.

This means that no two extractions of the same

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ingredient will smell exactly alike. For instance, the expression extraction method (which is typically used for citrus oils) captures different nuances compared to steam distillation. However, CO2 supercritical fluid extraction remains relatively niche among many perfume enthusiasts compared to more traditional techniques. Let’s take a closer look at how it works!

TRUE TO LIFE

Unlike other extraction methods that only capture certain fragments of a scent, CO2 supercritical fluid extraction is prized for extracting and preserving the full fragrance profile of an ingredient. It enables you to encapsulate all the characteristics of a raw material – from the top notes to the heart and base – resulting in extractions that smell true to life and fully capture the essence of each ingredient in its most complete form.

THE BASICS

At the heart of this extraction process is a supercritical fluid, a substance that exists between gas and liquid under specific temperatures and pressures. At this ‘critical point’, it combines properties of both gas and liquid.

Like a gas, the supercritical fluid penetrates deeply, yet it also dissolves substances like a liquid. This lets it capture both top notes (the most volatile molecules) and base notes (the heaviest compounds of a raw material).

Because this process uses minimal heat, delicate notes remain intact. CO2 supercritical fluid extraction preserves raw materials, resulting in eco-friendly, high-quality ingredients that stay true to their original character.

STEP BY STEP

1

An environmentally-friendly gas, collected from

2

The chosen raw material is percolated with

ambient air, is compressed and gently heated to exceed its critical point. This process allows the volatile substance to display properties of both a gas and a liquid simultaneously.

the supercritical fluid in an extractor. The supercritical fluid acts as a solvent to capture the fragrant molecules of the specific ingredient.

CO2 storage tank

3 Lavender Pure Jungle Essence™, one of Mane's best-selling essences

website MANE.COM instagram @MANE_1871_

INTERESTING FACTS

Did you know that CO2 supercritical fluid extraction allows perfumers to fine-tune the extraction process, simply by adjusting the pressure and temperature?

This flexibility enables them to craft more customised fragrance profiles, making their creations even more unique! Additionally, this extraction method is highly efficient, often yielding a greater quantity of fragrant extracts from the same amount of raw material compared to traditional techniques. However, these precious and pure fragrance extracts come with a

4

Heat and/or pressure is reduced in order to decant the extract and recover it in the separator, where the supercritical fluid is separated from the extract. The supercritical fluid then changes back to gas, leaving behind a pure, solvent-free extract.

The supercritical fluid is then recirculated and decompressed for storage to be reused several times during the process.

higher price tag, due to increased operational costs and the need for more advanced machinery.

Curious if your favourite fragrance includes ingredients extracted through this innovative method? While not all brands specify these ingredients on their packaging, some do highlight fragrance notes in combination with terms like SFE or CO2 extraction. You might discover that this process is the foundation of many remarkable fragrances!

ESCENTIALS

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THE WORLD OF

CHRISTIAN PROVENZANO PARFUMS The name Christian Provenzano Parfums likely rings a bell for fragrance lovers, and for good reason. Named after the master perfumer himself, this brand launched in 2018 with five captivating scents and has since expanded with six more in the Perfumers Collection. A standout at Cannes in 2023, the collection has quickly won over perfume enthusiasts worldwide.

w

ith over four decades of experience in the fragrance industry, Christian Provenzano, master perfumer and director of perfumery at CPL Aromas, has earned a reputation as one of the world’s leading creative perfumers. He is renowned for his signature Middle Eastern compositions, which have garnered him numerous awards. Yet, despite all his successes, one thing was missing: a brand of his own.

With this in mind, Christian Provenzano Parfums came to life in 2018. Each creation reflects his deep love and passion for the craft, featuring high concentrations of unique and precious natural 80

ingredients. As extrait de parfums, these fragrances are designed for exceptional longevity, with an impressively high perfume concentration.

The scents are estimated to last over 10 hours on the skin, leaving a lasting impression on both the wearer and the environment.

A FRAGRANT JOURNEY

The brand’s debut came with the Universal Collection, a set of five fragrances that quickly became bestsellers: Oud al Fayed, Ambre d’Or, Patchouli Noir, Santal Indien, and Cuir Elite. Of these, the latter three are our top picks for the autumn and winter seasons, standing out for their rich, warm, and sensual notes. These fragrances will envelop you in a cozy allure perfect for the colder months.

A DAZZLING NEW CHAPTER

The story doesn’t end there, as the brand has unveiled a stunning new range: the Perfumers Collection. This collection introduces six masterfully crafted fragrances, each a testament to Christian Provenzano’s artistry and his deep-rooted passion for perfumery. Unsure where to begin exploring these exciting new scents? Below, we highlight two winter-ready fragrances from this collection that you won’t want to miss.

WHERE MAJESTIC MEETS ROMANCE Discover Rocca – a fragrant symphony that captures the romance of websiteCP-PARFUMS.COM instagram @CHRISTIANPROVENZANOPARFUMS

bygone eras. This exquisite blend of spices, florals, fruits, and amber blooms on the skin, leaving an imperial trail. Rocca by Christian Provenzano Parfums, extrait de parfum 100 ml €284

A WHIFF OF ITALY Colosseum is a celebration of Italy’s rich history, enveloped in the most aromatic and refreshing notes. It opens with a vibrant blend of lavender, juniper berries, lime, and grapefruit, gradually deepening with hints of jasmine, leather, and thyme. The fragrance then settles into a mesmerising base of vetiver, amber, moss, and musk, promising an unforgettable scent journey! Colosseum by Christian Provenzano Parfums, extrait de parfum 100 ml €284

BRANDS TO DISCOVER

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THE U.S. NICHE PERFUME REVOLUTION:

SCENTXPLORE’S PERSPECTIVE As niche perfumes gain popularity, the industry is experiencing rapid growth, particularly in the United States. In fact, the fragrance market is flourishing there, from big department stores to new independent boutiques and online shops – with the latter growing at the fastest rate and expected to achieve an estimated revenue growth of 11% by the end of 2024. With many brands targeting the U.S. market, events like ScentXplore have become essential. Looking ahead to ScentXplore 2025, the first niche perfume convention in the U.S. promises even more exciting innovations and expansion plans for fragrance enthusiasts.

E

very December marks a special highlight on the fragrance calendar, as New York becomes a hub for niche perfume brands, scent enthusiasts, and content creators, all converging for ScentXplore. Preparations for 2025 are already underway, with many innovations planned to make the event an even more dynamic, inclusive, and immersive experience for all attending ScentXplorers.

VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE REINVENTED

After the pandemic, ScentXplore pioneered the virtual convention experience with a unique hybrid event.

Although the online event was widely embraced by the perfume community, the 2024 edition focused solely on the in-person experience. However, for fragrance lovers eager to attend ScentXplore digitally, there’s exciting news – the event is set to reintroduce a revamped virtual platform for future editions!

EXPANDING LOCATIONS

In 2025, ScentXplore will further unite the fragrance community by expanding the event across the United States. By introducing new locations and markets, the event will reach a broader audience and strengthen regional connections. This expansion began in April 2024 in Nashville, Tennessee, with Fumes & Tunes – a special spring edition of ScentXplore – and more of these events are in the works.

SCENTSCOPE

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As for the December event, ScentXplore 2025 will be hosted over 4-5 days at a larger venue. Additionally, the B2B environment will be enhanced, bringing top retailers, distributors, and brick-and-mortar stores into the fold. This expansion allows for more fragrance enthusiasts and industry professionals to connect, fostering a deeper sense of community and exclusivity across the U.S.

CONNECTIONS THROUGH ART

As a pioneer, ScentXplore continually seeks innovative ways to unite fragrance lovers, including through the arts. By integrating fragrances with artistic expressions such as music, fashion, gastronomy, and other art forms, the event cultivates even more unique environments rich in sensory experiences. This approach is designed to inspire fresh perspectives and deepen the connection with fragrance lovers, transforming olfactory journeys into truly unforgettable experiences.

IN-PERSON EXPERIENCES

One of the key goals of ScentXplore is to elevate in-person events to new levels of engagement and interaction. To achieve this, the event is expanding its masterclasses and presentations, led by top industry professionals, to highlight the artistry and significance of niche perfumery.

This expansion promises even more one-of-a-kind sessions for fragrance aficionados, as ScentXplore will be collaborating with a new array of flavour and fragrance companies, perfumers, fragrance developers, and brands to share the latest insights on cutting-edge trends and technologies. Some examples include sessions that introduce new molecules, concepts, compounds, and sessions that explore the role of AI in the future of fragrance development.

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SCENTXPLORE YEAR-ROUND

Beyond the event itself, ScentXplore is committed to keeping the fragrance excitement alive for ScentXplorers throughout the year. One example is ScentXpress, an exclusive blog launched in early 2024 that features interviews with top brands and content creators, conceptual articles, and highlights of new fragrance releases. This platform opens new online doors for perfume lovers to connect with topnotch fragrance content and activities – creating a continuous scented dialogue between perfume creators, companies, distributors, and consumers year-round.

In addition, ScentXplore offers more exclusive and personalised interactions for participating brands, via special activities and promotions tailored to different seasons and the latest launches. So, if you can’t get enough of ScentXplore, rest assured – there will be plenty more scent-tastic happenings coming up, both online and in-person. Stay tuned via scentxplore.com or subscribe to the ScentXplore e-newsletter.

In a Q&A with ScentXplore founder Max Forti, we delve deeper into what lies ahead for the event in the coming years. Take a peek at the next page!

Masterclass by Renaud Salmon, Chief Creative Officer of Amouage

Q&A WITH MAX FORTI

website SCENTXPLORE.COM instagram & tiktok @SCENTXPLORE youtube @MAXFORTI

How do you think ScentXplore contributes to driving the U.S. perfume market?

ScentXplore drives the U.S. perfume market by connecting niche fragrance brands with both consumers and industry professionals through not only a B2B but also a unique B2C focus. This enables ScentXplore to connect brands directly with fragrance enthusiasts and a wider audience beyond industry circles. It fosters authentic consumer engagement and instant feedback, offering brands a powerful way to deepen their reach within the U.S. market. The platform additionally boosts brand visibility via key opinion leaders, fosters consumer interest via exclusive product unveilings, and cultivates a knowledgeable consumer base through masterclasses. By maintaining connections year-round, ScentXplore also serves as a catalyst for niche brands to grow and establish themselves in the U.S. market.

What differentiates ScentXplore from other events, and what are the main benefits for brands, content creators, and consumers attenting the event?

ScentXplore sets itself apart by creating an inclusive, dynamic environment that connects brands, content creators, and consumers. For brands, it offers the opportunity to engage directly with audiences, facilitating networking, product promotion, and increased brand visibility. Content creators benefit from the platform to explore emerging trends and generate authentic, engaging content. Meanwhile, consumers can enjoy an immersive and informative experience, gaining up-close-and-personal access to niche brands and industry leaders through exclusive panels, masterclasses, and demos.

ScentXplore will be redesigning the virtual event for future editions. Are there plans for the digital experience you can already reveal?

The virtual event has been redesigned to offer a next-

level experience for future editions. While we’re still in development, what we can reveal is that we’re working on an innovative platform that will be more immersive, interactive, and tailored to the evolving needs of fragrance lovers worldwide. This cuttingedge digital experience will feature AI capabilities and virtual engagement tools, so if you can’t attend ScentXplore in person – ScentXplore will come to you!

For ongoing updates and news, I’d recommend signing up for our newsletter and checking out ScentXpress at scentxplore.com.

ScentXplore 2024 marked the sixth edition of the event.

Looking back on the establishment of ScentXplore, what are you most proud of?

Looking back on the journey of ScentXplore, what fills me with the most pride is how this event has evolved into more than just a convention – it has become a true community that celebrates our shared love for niche perfumery. It’s the countless personal stories shared by attendees, the excitement of discovering a new scent, and the meaningful relationships that have blossomed over the years that stand out the most. ScentXplore has truly become a place where people feel a sense of belonging, and that’s something I’ll always treasure. We’ve built something special together, and I can’t wait to see where the next chapter takes us!

SCENTSCOPE

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website SCENTOFAFRICA.COM instagram @SCENTOFAFRICA contact INFO@SCENTOFAFRICA.COM

SCENT OF AFRICA

TWINKLING NEW WINTER

RELEASES ALL ABOUT VANILLA

In the ancient Aztec Empire, vanilla was used to sweeten the revered chocolate drinks of great nobles and warriors. Imperial Vanilla honours that legacy, showcasing all of vanilla’s rich facets. With a delicate blend of brown sugar, rose, jasmine, vanillin, caramel, and tonka bean, it’s sweet temptation at its finest. Imperial Vanilla, Majouri, created by Rémi Barbier and Flavien Laurandeau

PLUSH GOURMAND

GUILTY PLEASURE

you in with a decadent blend of juicy black cherry,

popcorn-caramel, Poka stands for

irresistible almond liqueur, delicious dark chocolate,

indulgence and is a fragrant dedication

spiced honey, and creamy coconut. As the scent evolves,

to the sweetest desserts life has to

the gourmand side takes over with powdery tonka bean,

offer. Blending this iconic popcorn

soft sandalwood, and velvety white chocolate, creating

flavour with notes of apple pie, roasted

a true delight for the senses. Caspian Cherry, Electimuss

hazelnut, cinnamon, vanilla, musk,

London, created by Kevin Mathys

and tonka bean, this fragrance is the

Rich, indulgent, and bittersweet, Caspian Cherry lures

Named after the nickname for

ultimate guilty pleasure! Poka, Pernoire

REDEFINING PERFUME

Tulaare is a widely used term in northern Nigeria,

photography TRIBE PHOTOGRAPHY

meaning ‘perfume’ in the West-African language

ODYSSEY OF INDIA

Indian Leather by Memo pays tribute

Hausa. Over time, due to mispronunciations, it

to the majestic beauty of India and its

evolved into Tulaale, a term often associated with

sacred symbol of peace, mental strength,

lower-quality products. On a mission to redefine this

and power: the elephant. With the

perception, Maison Yusif introduced the fragrance

first spritz, a heart of cypriol unfolds,

Tulaale, breathing new life into the name. Inspired

accompanied by floral nuances, the

by Africa’s rich flora and woods, this fragrance blends

mysterious essence of oud, and a rich

forest fruits, cedar, a floral bouquet, amber notes, and

leather accord, whisking you off on a

musk, creating an enchanting and uplifting scent.

grand Indian adventure. Indian Leather,

Tulaale, Maison Yusif, created by Yusif Meizongo Junior

Memo, created by Juliette Karagueuzoglou

NEW RELEASES

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Welton London has launched its new eye catching Golden Elixir Collection, featuring three contemporary fragrances in flacons with a glossy gold finish. Each fragrance beautifully combines exquisite raw materials, from myrrh to leather and saffron, evoking the rich heritage of traditions and the essence of the beautiful landscapes they originate from. Designed for modern times, these refillable flacons preserve the authenticity of high perfumery, bridging Middle Eastern heritage with the Western world through exceptional yet accessible creations.

MAGICAL MYRRH

Mystique Myrrhe unites the charm of Paris with the opulent character of myrrh, painting an enchanting olfactory picture that evokes the magic of the ‘City of Lights’. Through the harmonious combination of coffee, myrrh, black and pink pepper, high-tech

oud, cocoa extract, vanilla, and iris, this vibrant fragrance instantly transports you to the picturesque streets of Paris. Mystique Myrrhe, created by Vincent Ricord

LUXURIOUS LEATHER

Imperial Leather blends the spirit of the Middle East through precious oud, with the artistry of Italian leather. The result is a captivating amber and woody scent that opens with zesty and spicy notes, enriched by the fruity and creamy facets of magnolia. This is followed by a deeper contrast of leathery oud, sweet vanilla, earthy patchouli, smoky vetiver, and warm amber, creating a lasting sense of intrigue that you simply can’t get enough of! Imperial Leather, created by Christian Provenzano

SOPHISTICATED SAFFRON

Saffron Euphoria captures the poetic essence of the Middle East and the beauty of Tuscany, revealing a dance between saffron – the golden spice – and Italian roses. With delicate rose petals, hypnotic magnolia, rich ginger root, precious saffron, spicy pink pepper, dark leather, and deep woody notes, this fragrance leaves a lingering trail on your skin and in your memory long after the first spritz. Saffron Euphoria, created by Christian Provenzano

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MAGICAL OUD

Oud Excelsa intrigues with a striking contrast of oud and pure coffee, inspired by tasseography – the art of predicting the future through traces of coffee grounds left in a cup. Accentuated by smoky and roasted notes from natrotar and robuston molecules, fresh cardamom, and elegant Bulgarian rose, the perfume reveals a powerful, intense scent with a sophisticated touch. Oud Excelsa, Parfums Caron, created by Jean Jacques

SACRED INCENSE

EXTRAIT POWER

incense, traditionally used in spiritual rituals by Mayans and

just launched its new Extraits de Parfum

This new release draws inspiration from the revered copal blanc

The French perfume house Atelier Materi

Aztecs. Enhanced by mastika liqueur, which evokes the festive

Collection, featuring three long-lasting

atmosphere of Greek celebrations, it creates a powerful and

scents. Ambre Papier focuses on the precious

lively elixir. Blended with hazelnut, mastic tree, iris concrete,

Siam benzoin, enhanced by vibrant and spicy

labdanum, and benzoin, this scent is as captivating as the ancient

saffron. Burgundy Oud offers a unique take on

cultures that inspired it. Encens Copal, Jacques Fath, created by

oud, blending this dark and mysterious note

Jean-Christophe Hérault

with fresh and tangy Burgundy blackcurrant.

Lastly, Néroli Hasbaya presents a gourmand interpretation of neroli, combined with soft

MYSTICALLY DARK

Captivated by the richness of oud, Élisire presents Hautbois: a

and sweet pistachio to sweep you off your feet!

Extraits de Parfum Collection, Atelier Materi, created by Céline Perdriel

fragrance that captures the depth and intensity of this precious raw material. It unfolds with notes of ylang-ylang, chamomile,

honey, guaiac wood, and patchouli, blended with oud assafi – the purest protected oud from Bangladesh. A holiday stunner for fragrance lovers seeking a dark, dense, and majestic oud this winter! Hautbois, Élisire, created by Clement Gavarry

GOLDEN GIFT

Traditionally revered for their value and significance, gold, frankincense, and myrrh lie at the core of Shalini’s pure perfume Gold. Harmoniously combined with marigold flower, saffron flower, Baltic amber, and honey, this perfume, which is crafted in France, will envelop you in a golden aura and make you feel like royalty – making it the perfect gift for the holidays! Gold, Shalini, created by Maurice Roucel

NEW RELEASES

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TROPICAL WINTER

Meet Vanille de Sambava, a fragrance that evokes the spirit of adventure. Taking inspiration from Sambava, a city in Madagascar renowned for its rare and wild vanilla, this scent transports you to a tropical paradise of flowing rivers, majestic mountains, and lush forests. Sambava exemplifies nature’s beauty, capturing the imagination of all who encounter its vibrant landscapes.

The fragrance mirrors Sambava and its exotic charm, opening with fresh bergamot, sweet apple, creamy coconut, and zesty orange. As it evolves, warm spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and chocolate add a festive touch to the composition. The rich base of rum, frosted vanilla, and tonka bean ties everything together, making the fragrance as magical as the winter season and as warm as a tropical escape. Vanille de Sambava, Noème Paris, created by Emma Doghri

GOLDEN TRIUMPH

Maison Yusif, an artisanal fragrance house founded by perfumer Yusif Meizongo Junior, is renowned for crafting olfactory tributes that capture the essence of Ghana’s landscapes, stories, and heritage. One of their latest creations, Black Excellence, honours Africa’s rich history through carefully curated fragrance notes. Each ingredient is selected to reflect both the challenges and triumphs of the continent, coming together in a fragrance that celebrates resilience and achievement – characteristics Yusif beautifully refers to as ‘black excellence’. mandarin, plum, and bergamot, enveloping you in a refreshing and zesty aura. As it settles, comforting notes of cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, and white musk emerge, adding a warm and cosy character. The base unfolds with a plethora of oud, tobacco, cedarwood, tonka bean, and hay, offering depth and an intriguing smoky softness. Black Excellence, Maison Yusif, created by Yusif Meizongo Junior

photography TRIBE PHOTOGRAPHY

The scent journey begins with a vibrant splash of fig, bay leaf,

AUDACIOUS VIOLET

This masterpiece revisits an iconic note in perfumery: the violet petal. Blended into a beautifully modern bouquet, Palatine contrasts the traditional essence of violet with a contemporary composition of mandarin, bergamot, pear, musk, and sandalwood. The result is a bold, velvety fragrance that inspires confidence and courage. Palatine by Parfums de Marly

SENSUAL CISTUS

This soulful composition is a tribute to founder Dennis Werner’s beloved daily ritual of drinking cistus tea. Through

TIMELESS MAGIC

This newly released fragrance revolves around incense,

soft notes of blooming rose, delicate incense, and earthy

the ancient essence of the soul that was once burned

cistus, the healing and calming properties of cistus, also

as a sacred offering to carry dreams and prayers to the

known as rock rose, are beautifully conveyed. The fragrance

divine. Paired with jasmine, Moroccan rose, patchouli,

gracefully balances Mediterranean charm with the elegance

sandalwood, and amber, it gives a mystical ambiance that

of a blooming rose, resulting in an exquisitely beautiful

enhances the power of this timeless note. Encens Sacré,

scent. Cistus, D:Sol MMXVI, created by Delphine Thierry

Perris Monte Carlo, created by Gian Luca Perris

DREAMS IN SCENT

Neydo unveiled its second fragrance collection, inspired by olfactory dreams and the rare phenomenon of experiencing smells within a dream. This new trio of fragrances offers an olfactory journey that feels almost dreamlike!

Breathe Out 01.02 captures the dream of an alpine snowboarder, bottling the paradox of bodily adrenaline and the serenity of nature. The composition fuses crisp mountain air with the salty steam of geysers and the warmth of spiced drinks. Alien Fruit 30.03 transports you to a vibrant summer resort. With an electric rainbow of colours and flavours through aromas of tropical drinks, yuzu sorbet, and a kaleidoscope of rare exotic fruits, it gives you a summer feeling in the colder months.

Fiery Fig 24.05 tells the tale of a steamy summer romance. The perfume encapsulates a magical evening under the fig trees and a blazing sunset, with creamy cocktails and music that conquers your heart. Take your holiday pick! Neydo, Breathe Out 01.02 created by Lucas Sieuzac, Alien Fruit 30.03 by Bertrand Duchaufour, Fiery Fig 24.05 created by Joelle Lerioux Patris

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NATURE’S PALETTE

Introducing a brand-new collection that combines drawings and scents: Les Essences de Diptyque. This quintet of natural masterpieces reinterprets the treasures of nature, featuring fragrances inspired by coral with Corail Oscuro, pearl with Lunamaris, bark with Bois Corsé, water lily with Lilyphéa, and desert rose with Rose Roche. Les Essences de Diptyque, Diptyque, created by Alexandra Carlin, Fabrice Pellegrin, Natalie Gracia-Cett, and Olivier Pescheux

VETIVER OVERDOSE

Juliette has a Gun’s latest release showcases a playful overdose of vetiver, featuring

PERFUMED POTION

three different variants from Haïti, India,

Like a potion of perfumed alchemy, this release will enchant

and Indonesia. Ex Vetiver, which literally

you from the very first spritz. Centred around alkermes liqueur,

means ‘derived from vetiver’, celebrates this

also known in ancient France as ‘liquore de Medici’, it has a

raw material, combining its smoky depth

rich and boozy warmth. By infusing this precious liqueur with

with refreshing bergamot and lemon, and

galbanum, davana, saffron, and amber, it crafts a spellbinding

warm ambroxan and musk for a wintery

spicy fougère to wear during the holidays. Alchermes, Parfums

twist. Ex Vetiver, Juliette Has A Gun, created

De Gabor, created by Gabriel Gabor

by Romano Ricci

THE AMBER UNIVERSE

Creed dazzles the perfume industry once again with a magical duo of woody amber fragrances, beautifully encased in radiant, amber-

coloured glass. Meet Delphinus and Centaurus, two fragrances crafted as olfactory tributes to the celestial constellations they were named after, capturing the radiance, warmth, and wonder of the night sky in a bottle.

Delphinus pays homage to the constellation known to guide many voyagers, artists, and dreamers. This luminous amber blends smoky incense, sweet almond, leathery bourbon vanilla, and precious orris, enveloping you in a lingering, warm embrace that exudes the magic of starlit nights. Centaurus evokes a sense of grandeur, reminiscent of the largest constellation in the cosmos that inspired it. This fiery tobacco fragrance ignites with a palette of spices like pink pepper, cardamom, and cinnamon, balanced by dark honeyed tonka bean, and deep bourbon vanilla, creating a scent that transports you to the stars. Delphinus and Centaurus, Creed

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LIKE A FREE SPIRIT

Ma Nature by M. Micallef captures the essence of freedom with

of patchouli is beautifully contrasted with cashmere wood,

a blend of new accords and unexplored olfactory journeys. This

sandalwood, and cinnamon, merging light and dark elements.

fragrance transcends traditional boundaries, inspiring you to

As it settles and dries, a hint of sweetness emerges, revealing

embrace your uniqueness with confidence.

delicate musky and amber notes, intriguing tobacco, and

Ma Nature features rich, multi-faceted ingredients, meticulously

a delicious twist of vanilla and tonka bean. Encased in an

blended to achieve the perfect alchemy. It challenges the classic

elegant, opaque-green flacon, the fragrance captures the

olfactory pyramid with a bold overdose of green patchouli, which

beauty of patchouli at its core through a contemporary blend

infuses both the top and heart notes. These vibrant leaves dance

of scents. It’s not crafted for the masses, so it might just be the

alongside woody undertones, enhanced with a dash of honey, clove,

extraordinary fragrance you’ve been searching for! Ma Nature,

and lavender for an irresistible allure. The playful green character

M. Micallef, created by Geoffrey Nejman

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A DAUNTING NOIR

Exciting news: the beloved Kajal Perfumes Paris bestseller, Lamar, now comes in a new version – Lamar Noir! With its dark and leather twist on the original formula, this new release is an invitation for the bold and the brave.

Inspired by the quote, “Only those who dare to embark upon daunting journeys discover the most profoundly rewarding experiences”, Lamar Noir encourages you to embrace the darkness and navigate through the shadows, trusting that this journey will ultimately guide you toward light and serenity.

The fragrance is crafted by Patrick Müller from LUZI Switzerland like a tantalising and hypnotising mélange. Lamar Noir opens with a vibrant explosion of green apple and exotic fruits, merging with bergamot and powdery violet – symbolising honesty and determination. This bright spark flows into a gourmand heart of vanilla and caramel, laced with a balsamic accord for an unexpected twist.

As the scent evolves, a bouquet of rose and geranium blossoms on your skin, radiating happiness and positivity. In its grand finale, the fragrance turns into a passionate blend of intense notes like leather, oud, and guaiac wood, balanced by softer, cosier tones of cashmere wood, musk, and amber. The unique ‘Specialty Base’ adds a luxurious touch, inspired by pure natural oud or ‘liquid gold’, one of the rarest and most precious ingredients in perfumery.

Encased in a sleek black ceramic flacon adorned with golden touches and a stunning black star cap, Lamar Noir stands as a scented beacon of light in your perfume collection – guiding you toward your own journey of transformation. Lamar Noir, Kajal Perfumes Paris, created by Patrick Müller

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CHAPTER 5 COLOPHON PUBLISHER Le Parfum haute magazine leparfummagazine.com @leparfummagazine EDITORIAL TEAM editorialteam@leparfummagazine.com Amber Ruinard Mandy van Rootselaar Nienke Scholten Nancy Nichting Thérèse Struik DISTRIBUTION & SALES sales@leparfummagazine.com Daniel Sharifi Rudolph Favier Sam Sharifi Monika Heeg PRINT Drukkerij Roelofs WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO Andras Komar and Renaud Salmon from Amouage, Arokor Parfumerie, BYMO, Christian Provenzano Parfums, Coisy B, CPL Aromas, Dominique Ropion, Givaudan, Jillian Switzerland, Kai Porten (@kai.porten), Kajal Perfumes Paris, M. Micallef, Mane, Mark Tuka (@fragrenturesofmark), Max Forti (ScentXplore), Niche Perfumes, Ojar, Pierre and Amélie Montale, Plethora Perfume Lounge, Quentin Bisch, Reinvented Parfums, Roja Dove, Sospiro, Welton London, Wessel-James Kos (@wesseljamesk) The contents of this magazine are copyrighted by Le Parfum haute magazine. It is not permitted to use, translate or adapt any of the contents (imaging or text) for reproduction and/or publication purposes, without permission of Le Parfum. Le Parfum is not liable for inaccuracies in the magazine, social platforms, or the website. Le Parfum reserves the right to publish submitted material fully or partially without prior notice.

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