Le Parfum haute e-magazine (English) - Spring/Summer 2024 chapter 4

LE PARFUM

A SUMMER

SYMPHONY

DOSE OF INSPIRATION

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE

Summer fragrance inspiration

MUST-VISIT PERFUMERIES

The most stunning perfume hotspots

REVEALED: AWARD WINNERS

This year’s Art & Olfaction award winners

NEWLY DISCOVERED

Perfume brands that caught our eye

EYE-CATCHING SUMMER NOVELTIES

New releases for this season

BRANDS TO DISCOVER

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU

Four perfume brands to discover

THE SECRET FORMULA Behind Eight & Bob

THE PERFECT DUEL Lengling Münich

BEHIND THE SCENTS

Kajal Perfumes Paris

WHERE MODERN MEETS CLASSIC Parfums de Marly

GATEWAY TO PARADISE Noème Paris

KNOW-HOW

CONVERSATION WITH

OLIVIA OLFACTORY

Hidden gems

CHRIS MAURICE

Going beast mode

MAYOR OF GRASSE & CURATOR OF THE MIP

Grasse: the epicentre of perfumery

CURLY

NICHE PERFUMES: YOUR LAYERING GUIDE

Three enchanting layering combinations

MANE: NOSY ’BOUT NOTES

A summer trinity

12

GIVAUDAN: S(C)ENT WITH LOVE

Gen Z’s love codes in fragrance

DSM-FIRMENICH: FROM FLOWER TO FRAGRANCE

Hot off the press: new book about Grasse

ROBERTET: ESCENTIALS

Unravelled: enfleurage

WATER-BASED FRAGRANCES

Your alcohol-free EDP

EDITORIAL

Next stop: Chapter 4

GIVEAWAY

Le Parfum X State of Mind

YOUR NEXT DOSE OF LE PARFUM

The ultimate Chapter 5 deal

NEXT STOP: CHAPTER 4

Summer is here! That means it’s time to prepare for your ultimate summer getaway by packing your suitcase and ensuring your travel-size fragrance products are ready for action. The warm weather, long summer nights, and (hopefully) endless sunshine will bring a plethora of refreshing, delicious, and exhilarating fragrance notes. From sparkling and juicy fruits to vibrant florals, fresh green tones, or aquatic notes – the season promises a new wave of fragrances and scented body products, ready to captivate your senses and sweep you off your feet. With the arrival of the summer season, we embarked on a journey filled with new experiences, inspirations, and fragrant discoveries. We broadened our horizon across the world, connecting with even more incredible fragrance enthusiasts. This year, our platform reached a significant milestone by participating at Esxence in Milan with our very own booth. There, we had the pleasure – and the honour – of meeting amazing retailers, brands, industry experts, and fellow ‘fragheads’. This experience has opened doors for collaborations with various esteemed industry associations, including Givaudan, Robertet, dsm-firmenich, and Mane. And let’s not forget, this fourth issue marks our two-year anniversary. So here’s to many more years of success!

Let’s embark on a new chapter of our fragrance journey, as we uncover the stories of many more enchanting perfumeries, brands, fragrances, and their creators. We’re excited to share that we had the honour of discovering the winners of the 10th edition of the Art & Olfaction Awards, providing you with early access to their stories. Our quest to uncover the most exquisite perfumeries in the world took us from France to Canada and Iraq,

culminating in a new list of recommendations for you to enjoy. In this chapter we take you on a journey to Grasse, known as the capital of perfumery, through an interview with the Mayor, Jérôme Viaud, and the curator of the International Museum of Perfumery, Olivier Quiquempois. In collaboration with Mane, we introduce three trending summer fragrance notes to satisfy your summer wanderlust. We also immersed ourselves into the language of love and seduction among Gen Z through the creations of Givaudan’s “What is Love?” exhibition. Together with Robertet, we delved into the renowned extraction method they are famous for: enfleurage.

In Chris Maurice’s first-ever interview, he shares his journey as a perfumer, originating from the ‘King of Oriental Perfumery’. We explored the treasures of Kajal Perfumes Paris and uncovered the story behind their latest creation, Äican. Eight & Bob unveiled their remarkable brand story, from their history to the two latest releases from the Extrait Collection. We spotlighted the modern fairytale of the iconic Parfums de Marly, whose creations have captivated the niche fragrance world since their inception. And let’s not overlook the most enticing new releases we’ve lined up for you to consider adding to your wish list.

So as you pack for your ultimate summer adventures, may this chapter be your companion to those enchanting beaches, picturesque cities, and wonderful getaways, offering a touch of scented inspiration!

With love, Team Le Parfum

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE

Release your summer wardrobe and revel in the embrace of the season’s warmth caressing your skin. With summer’s arrival, it’s time to ensure your fragrance collection is on point!

1 CRUISE ACROSS THE OCEAN

Inspired by founder Michael Knudsen’s creation in 1957, this fragrance encapsulates the essence of transatlantic voyages. Blending fresh florals with soft woody notes, it evokes the opulence of luxurious ocean liners. Across the Ocean by Gravel 1957, eau de parfum 100 ml €150

2 SPARKLING SUN

Celebrate the magnificent sunrise. Sun Force reveals longlasting and ethically-sourced citrus notes of pomelo and green mandarin, enveloped by spicy saffron and a hint of honey. Sun Force by The Harmonist, extrait de parfum 50 ml €325

3 SURF & TURF

For adventurous holidaymakers daring to conquer the wildest waves, Maison Matine presents a soft and playful creation that evokes a sense of sunshine all year long! Bain De Midi by Maison Matine, eau de parfum 50 ml €60

4 BONFIRE BLISS

An oud in the summer? The answer is absolutely YES! Embrace your sensual side this season with this exquisite blend of oud, elevated by cinnamon. Oud Canelle by La Closerie des Parfums, eau de parfum 100 ml €173

5 SUMMER GETAWAY

Named after the classical Greek round temple architecture, Monopteros evokes the essence of a summer retreat by intertwining florals with rich coffee, sweet raspberries, crisp cucumber, spicy black pepper, and fresh coconut. Monopteros by Der Duft, eau de parfum 50 ml €120

Do you like to keep your skin moisturised while enjoying a subtle hint of perfume? We’ve got you covered!

6 BLING & SWING

This luxurious 24-carat gold scented oil leaves the skin delicately shimmering and beautifully fragranced. Perfect for the upcoming festival season! Baccarat Rouge 540 sparkling body oil by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 200 ml €195

7 FERNTASTIC

Combining the bestselling Fougair fragrance by J.F. Schwarzlose with a refreshing twist for hot summer days, this avant-garde composition evokes a scent explosion reminiscent of fresh ferns, offering a resinous and invigorating aroma. Fougair hand wash & shower gel by J.F. Schwarzlose, 250 ml €25

8 OCEAN TRANQUILITY

A perfumed body lotion that nourishes your skin, leaving behind a refreshing trail reminiscent of ocean air, seaweed, salt, bergamot, and musk. Salaria body lotion by Giardino Benessere, 250 ml €85

9 INCREEDIBLY FLORAL

Revitalise your senses with this lively blend of crisp green apple, blossoming white carnation, fresh lemon, and zesty bergamot extracts. For a longer-lasting experience, layer with the matching fragrance to extend its presence on your skin. Acqua Fiorentina Perfumed Oil by Creed, 75 ml €130

10 ICONICALLY GOOD

As romantic as Paris and as vibrant as African culture with beloved notes of neroli, African marigold, and Moroccan cedarwood. This must-have fragranced lotion leaves a captivating, lingering scent and a hydrated glow. Bal d’Afrique body lotion by Byredo, 225 ml €58

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU

Introducing four niche perfume brands that are a must for your summer fragrance collection. PS – you can discover one of these in Le Parfum mystery box chapter 4!

EAU DE MOE: SACRED BONDS

LUXURY | ARTISTRY | EMOTION

Driven by his love for geometric art and unique family connections, founder Moe Khalaf weaves together profound family bonds and emotions into olfactory voyages that resonate deeply with the soul. As a symbol to these intricate journeys, every single flacon is adorned with exquisite mandalas to evoke and inspire you.

The perfume Leen draws inspiration from Moe’s eldest sister, whom he views as the rock of his family and his guiding light. Moe captured her sweet, warm, and rich character in a unique essence of vivid lemon, warm and spicy saffron, radiant jasmine, and delicate rose, complimented by sensual vanilla and ambergris. Just like a sister’s presence, it’s a gift to the heart!

BON PARFUMEUR: EXCEPTIONAL CONTRASTS

RARE INGREDIENTS | HAUTE PARFUMERIE | TIMELESS

After encountering many enchanting tropical scents during a visit to Colombia in 2017, founder Ludovic Bonneton joined forces with renowned French perfumers to translate this newfound world into fragrances. This moment marked the inception of Bon Parfumeur and its collection, crafted with rare ingredients to evoke his most cherished memories through scented odysseys. Among these incredible creations, 304 particularly stands out for this season. It offers a fragrant journey to on an Oriental summer getaway, conjuring visions of the famous Marrakech and the everyday magic of spice-laden aromas. It initially captures your senses with an electrifying burst of spicy ginger and warm cumin, followed by a soothing blend of delicate almond blossom and cedar, creating a surprisingly comfortable yet adventurous contrast. This scent is for those seeking a tantalising experience of magical Morocco.

website BONPARFUMEUR.COM instagram @BONPARFUMEUR 304, eau de parfum, 100 ml €95

website EAUDEMOE.COM instagram @EAUDEMOE Leen, eau de parfum, 80 ml €119

ATELIER MATERI: AUTHENTIC PERFECTION

CRAFTSMANSHIP | CONTEMPORARY | SLOW LUXURY

Believing in the transformative power of human touch, Atelier Materi’s fragrances are conceived through collaboration with artisans. From the harvesting of ingredients to the creation of scents, it’s the hands that shape and reveal their true beauty, infusing them with soul and embodying honest, sincere, and authentic luxury. This dedication to craftsmanship extends even beyond the fragrances themselves to the creation of the bottles. The scents are encased in deep blue glass, adorned with a finely-crafted concrete cap, each of which is meticulously poured, polished, and finished with an antique bronze patina. At the heart of every fragrance lies a singular raw material, embodying a modern and minimalist olfactory signature that distinguishes them and unveils their true beauty.

Embracing the vegetable trend, Cèdre Figalia is a must-try for those seeking a unique fragrance with an earthy and sparkling edge. The scent blends uplifting notes of bergamot and basil with spicy Jamaican pepper, spinach, herbal mate, cedarwood, and a crisp fig accord, crafting a fresh and milky aroma. For nature enthusiasts in search of the ultimate green summer perfume, this might be the one!

SOUL OF MINE: OPULENCE OF LOVE

ARTISANAL | EMOTION | BEGUILING

Scents that become your language of expression, capturing your heart and soul along the way, define the essence of Soul of Mine’s exquisite collection. Crafted by virtuoso perfumers, these five fragrances represent the essence of love. Each scent invites you to explore your deepest desires and most cherished moments, igniting passion and romance with every spritz. Among these scented treasures, Stunning has truly captured our attention. This enchanting elixir, crafted by Philippe Paparella-Paris, embodies a seductive blend of sweet, fresh, aromatic, amber, and woody notes, including vanilla, bergamot, leather, and oud. Encased within a beautifully warm-toned, handpainted bottle with an organic golden cap, this alluring composition awaits to grace your skin and captivate the hearts of all those who encounter it.

MUST-VISIT PERFUMERIES

From the picturesque France to Iraq, Canada, and Serbia – let us help you discover the world’s most beautiful (e-) perfumeries this summer!

RARITY AT ITS FINEST

Nestled in the heart of Paris at 4 Rue de Castiglione is a captivating destination for fragrance enthusiasts: Jovoy. Its story began in 2006, when François Hénin relaunched the forgotten Jovoy Parfums brand, after a hiatus of over 70 years. By 2012, he had established one of Paris’s first multi-brand boutiques exclusively for niche perfume labels. Today, Jovoy stands as one of the pillars of the niche perfume retail landscape, with multiple franchise boutiques across several countries.

The boutique epitomises luxury, dressed in signature red and black colours and beautiful, antique furniture. Gracing the dark wooden shelves are over 2,200 perfumes, home fragrances, and candles from nearly 130 brands. Known as the ‘Embassy of Rare Perfumes’, Jovoy’s collection showcases the most extraordinary fragrance pieces in the niche perfume industry, crafted to set them apart.

“ PERFUME IS A POWERFUL WEAPON FOR THOSE WHO KNOW HOW TO USE IT”

–

François Hénin, owner of Jovoy

Jovoy is an inspiring location that invites you to linger and explore. It has all the elements that make your fragrance journey not only memorable but comfortable as well. It is furnished with seating areas and offers refreshment services and personal shopping assistance. With the staff’s perfume expertise at your beck and call, you have all the resources necessary to discover your ultimate fragrance. If you’re uncertain, Jovoy’s sample service allows you to try some of your favourite new finds beyond the store. Moreover, they provide masterclasses and VIP perfume

consultations tailored to seasoned perfume lovers, offering fresh olfactory inspiration.

For those who enjoy exploring the scented universe from the comfort of their screens, Jovoy also has an online shop where you can purchase their fragrances and have them shipped worldwide. In collaboration with Perfumist, the popular fragrance app with over 2.5 million downloads globally, the website also provides an online perfume advisor. This tool guides you through their astonishing collection: simply enter the name of your favourite fragrance to receive personalised recommendations!

Starting in 2024, the collaboration between Jovoy and Perfumist is expanding its scope by partnering with prestigious perfume institutions in Grasse and Paris. This alliance includes l’Ecole Supérieure du Parfum (ESP), the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (GIP), l’Institut Supérieur

International du Parfum, and de la Cosmétique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire (ISIPCA). Through this partnership, students are provided with the opportunity to evaluate perfume creations under the guidance of professional perfumers employed by leading fragrance and flavour manufacturing companies, such as Givaudan, dsm-firmenich, IFF, or Symrise. In addition to being the custodian of a rare perfume collection, Jovoy has also generously opened its boutiques to students for evaluating these extraordinary perfumes. These evaluations are then incorporated into the Perfumist app, improving the database of these fragrances and offering more tailored recommendations. This gesture not only advances the global perfume industry but also enriches the educational experience of aspiring perfumers from Grasse and Paris.

JOURNEY THROUGH

Amid the ancient charm of Erbil, Iraq, with its beautiful authentic architecture and vibrant cultural tapestry, lies an extraordinary and inspiring boutique: the Specialty Fragrance Store. Here, the region’s rich olfactory traditions unfold through a curated selection of niche perfume brands. Among them are names like Xerjoff, Casamorati, Valmont Fragrance, Gritti, Steve Martin Perfume, Fragrance Du Bois, Pana Dora, and Maison Noir. It’s where the stories of fragrance craftsmanship and artistry are kept, recited through olfactory melodies – from deep, earthy notes of oud and woody aromas to the warm embrace of leather, amber,

and musk, fresh fruity blends, and delicate florals. The brand collection transports visitors across cultures, landscapes, and epochs – from ancient trade routes to lush gardens.

Each fragrance in the store is meticulously sourced from esteemed artisans and producers, proudly reflecting its ingredients and origins with a commitment to quality and authenticity. Guided by knowledgeable staff, you can embark on a journey to discover your new favourite scent, while deeply connecting with the heritage and culture of Erbil. For those seeking new and exhilarating olfactory experiences, the Specialty Fragrance Store is a destination not to be missed!

“ Our niche perfumes collect the region’s rich olfactory traditions and bring them to life”

THE SPECIALTY FRAGRANCE STORE IN ERBIL, IRAQ

EXSCENTRIQUE

In 2012, Niche Essence embarked on a mission to introduce Toronto locals to the magical world of niche perfumery. Since opening its doors in Bayview Village shopping centre in 2022, the flagship store has earned a reputation as one of the premier destinations in North America specialised in niche perfumes. It attracts fragrance enthusiasts from all over Canada to explore the most extraordinary creations. The luxurious and modern boutique is home to a diverse selection of fragrances from over 30 prestigious brands worldwide, including Amouage, Byredo, Roja Parfums, Fragrance Du Bois, Orto Parisi, The House of Oud, and Widian. Each masterpiece

is beautifully displayed on minimalist, light wooden shelves and marble stands, enticing visitors to discover their scented stories with just a single spritz. Whether you’re well-versed in niche perfumes or curious to delve into their ethereal creative universe, Niche Essence offers a fragrance sanctuary that promises an unforgettable experience.

“ WE ARE ONE OF THE FEW LUXURY BOUTIQUES IN NORTH AMERICA SPECIALISED IN NICHE PERFUMES”

AI SCENT-TASTIC

For those who like to wander around the online perfume universe for their latest scented purchases, this one is for you. Born amidst the pandemic in 2020, the online fragrance boutique Twisted Lily has fully transformed the perfume discovery experience for the digital age. Not only does this boutique have an impressive and meticulously curated portfolio with over a thousand fragrances; it’s also a pioneer when it comes to the use of AI-powered discovery tools. These tools enable you to make your online shopping voyage more personal, relatable, playful, and, let’s be honest, so much more fun!

Crossing their digital doorstep, you are greeted with a plethora of possibilities to unveil your next olfactory love. Thanks to a handful of smart and one-of-a-kind AI tools, you can say goodbye to the ‘risky blind buy’ and hello to an extraordinary shopping experience with recommendations specifically tailored to you. For example, have you ever found yourself completely in love with a specific fragrance, but were clueless about your next fragrance purchases? After all, it also needs to hit that same sweet spot.

“ WE HAVE FULLY TRANSFORMED THE PERFUME DISCOVERY EXPERIENCE”

Enter ‘Match It’, the genius brainchild of fragrance virtuoso Michael Edwards. Based on your past fragrance preferences, this innovative tool analyses the notes and compositions of your beloved fragrances to guide you to the perfect counterpart within Twisted Lily’s curated collection. Looking for more creative guidance? Discover the ‘Scent Stylist’, which lets you

describe your ideal perfume using anything that comes to mind – whether it is imagery, a landscape, an olfactive word, or simply emotions that you would like the scent to evoke. And for those specifically seeking fragrances tailored to a certain mood, there is the ‘Moods’ feature. Recognising the ability of fragrances to enhance your spirits, complement your outfit, or mark special occasions, this feature introduces six moods and suggests fragrances to match.

And should you simply need expert advice, want to ask questions, or get even more recommendations, AI-Lily is just one click away via the chat button. So, sit back, relax, and enjoy the journey through the scented wonderland that is Twisted Lily!

FRAGRANCE PALACE

Introducing the brand-new Belodore boutique in Belgrade – the largest niche perfumery in Europe! Following the success of Belodore’s flagship store in Budapest earlier this year, the latest addition to the Belodore retail chain opened its doors at the Galerija Belgrade shopping centre. Spanning an impressive 360 square metres, the space is adorned with modern architecture and artisanal elements like ceramic displays and locally crafted sculptures. The collection is equally impressive, featuring a

wide range of skincare brands and luxury fragrances. With over 40 esteemed brands, including Kilian Paris, Frédéric Malle, Creed, and Acqua di Parma, there’s something for every taste. Additionally, the flagship store shines a spotlight on the finest local producers in the region with its ‘Recommeded by Belodore’ section. So when in the capital of Serbia, be sure to visit the new Belodore flagship store for a fresh dose of fragrant inspiration.

“ WE ARE PROUD TO BE THE LARGEST NICHE PERFUMERY IN EUROPE”

YOUR LAYERING GUIDE

The beauty advisors of the Spanish boutique chain Niche Perfumes often get asked about the perfect layering combinations for the summer. Their experts have curated three amazing layering combinations for the readers of Le Parfum to leave a captivatingly fragrant impression this season.

CREAMY & FLORAL

BEAST MODE

1 2 3

A most delicious combination of smooth ylang-ylang and blissful white florals. Oud Jaune’s buttery nature blends perfectly with Tyl’s slightly more citrusy notes, creating an uplifting yet seductive scent.

A killer combo of two bestsellers that’s guaranteed to impress! Harmony beautifully highlights Red Ishq’s core by bringing more tropical hues to a delightful combination of saffron and raspberry.

FRESH COCKTAIL

A fresh blend of sage that is as soothing as addictive. Riviera Lazuli introduces a spicy hint of sparkling lemon to Torino22’s tranquil foundation, creating the perfect balance for endless beach walks.

Oud Jaune Intense by Fragrance Du Bois Tyl by Tiziana Terenzi

Harmony by Spirit of Kings Red Ishq by Anfas

Riviera Lazuli by Atelier Des Ors Torino22 by Xerjoff

REVEALED: ART AND OLFACTION

AWARD WINNERS

This year marks the 10th edition of the Art and Olfaction Awards in Lisbon, Portugal. Curious about which brands won a Golden Pear Award? Keep reading and be among the first to uncover some of the winners across various categories...

The Art and Olfaction Awards were established in 2013 with a distinct purpose: to cultivate greater interest, awareness, and appreciation for independent, artisan, and experimental perfumers worldwide. Saskia Wilson-Brown, the founder of the initiative, explains: “At the awards, we celebrate independent perfume practices, and experimental practices with scent. Any company that is owned by a parent company with more than four perfume brands in its holdings is not qualified to submit. In this way, we are able to focus on the brands that are not adequately represented in the larger ecosystem of commercial perfumery.” Saskia notes that since its inception, the Awards have significantly expanded, increasing their scope and as well as the number of award categories. Consequently, they’ve evolved into a symbol of diversity, showcasing the top creators in perfumery and fostering community engagement. She says: “I’ve come to realise that the awards have a power to help facilitate visibility for independent practices. It serves an

important purpose towards a full representation of scent practices, while bringing people together across national and geographical boundaries.”

THE TENTH ANNIVERSARY

This year, the Art and Olfaction Awards (proudly sponsored by Mane) have received many fragrance submissions from around the world. A carefully selected panel of judges, originating from several creative industries, backgrounds, and specialisations, evaluate these entries. “The awards are assessed based on the perfume alone. We judge the submissions blindly, meaning that no relationships can impact the scores. This also allows people an equal chance at the judges’ attention, whether they have large or small marketing budgets. To me, this feels like the fairest way to assess people’s olfactory work.”

Each entry is assigned a number and accompanied by an anonymous letter stating the vison behind the fragrance. The submissions are assessed in two rounds, where criteria such as first impressions, longevity of the fragrance, intentionality, uniqueness, use of the scent, and overall project concept are rated on a scale of 1-10.

The final winners of this year’s Art and Olfaction Awards were revealed on June 7th at Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon, Portugal. Le Parfum had the privilege to be among the first to hear about the winners in these categories, and to share this exciting news with you in this very chapter of the magazine!

NEWCOMERS AWARD

Winner: Queer de Russie by Nose Republic

As diverse as the term ‘queer’ itself, this fragrance embodies a plethora of meanings, emotions, and nuances, celebrating uniqueness. Queer de Russie exudes a vibrant, inviting, and refined leather character, drawing inspiration from the essence of the queer movement in Russia. Right from the start, the fragrance envelops you in a fruity and gentle suede aroma, crafted from notes like fresh ginger, melon, juicy peach, ylang-ylang, latex, and faux suede. It’s a scented statement distinct from traditional leatherinspired fragrances, crafted to be worn with pride and joy.

INDEPENDENT PERFUME AWARD

Winner: Kajal IV by Kajal Perfumes Paris

Explore the breathtaking golden expanse of the African Savannah on a captivating journey, where an exotic and mysterious paradise awaits. Crafted by Kévin Mathys, this adventurous elixir effortlessly captures the essence of the desert’s seductive charm. With notes of davana, cassis, rum, and cardamom, the fragrance instantly casts a spell of enchantment. As the scent evolves, a captivating blend of florals and serene leather emerges, complemented by the decadent sweetness of kholas dates and a soothing symphony of musk, woods, and vanilla.

Winner: Amnesia Rose by Aedes de Venustas

This scented jewel is like a vintage rose, delicately unfurling its petals to reveal the hidden treasures within. It mesmerises with its allure, like the twilight of an autumn evening, enveloping you in an enigmatic scent of spicy saffron and earthy patchouli. As the scent settles, a deep floral heart emerges, mingling with dark rose notes. Enhanced by opulent spices, incense, and precious woods, Amnesia Rose leaves an utterly captivating and unique fragrance.

ARTISAN PERFUME AWARD

Winner: Grove is in the Heart by Samar Crafted by Na-Moya Lawrence and Debbie Lin, this fragrance is like a vibrant burst of citrus, captivating you from the very first whiff. It transports you to a sun-drenched orchard, where the warm sunbeams caress the skins of bergamot, mandarin, and citron. Just like the crisp scent of freshly peeled fruit, Grove is in the Heart is undeniable tantalising, blending sweet, refreshing, and joyful notes of petitgrain, linden blossom, and Indonesian sandalwood.

Winner: Molotov Cocktail by Sylhouette Parfums

Originally created as a charitable fragrance to aid war victims in Russia, Molotov Cocktail was unveiled in 2023 as a bold statement from perfumer Sy Truong, in defiance of government opposition. It transcends mere olfactory indulgence and fancy accessories, serving as a powerful voice during times of war and conflict. With its striking blend of vodka and accords of blood, gunpowder, and metallic musk, this daring and emotive composition challenges wearers to confront harsh realities.

AFTEL AWARD

Winner: Arabian Jasmine by Amer Perfumes

With the desire to capture the mesmerising essence of fresh flowers and the style of Arabian perfumes, founder and perfumer Amer Alradhi created Arabian Jasmine. The fragrance unfolds with prominent floral notes, spotlighting his beloved jasmine sambac from India, intertwined with Arabian jasmine, violet leaves, and Bulgarian and Azerbaijani rose. This enchanting combination of florals gives way to a rich and long-lasting base comprising sandalwood, agarwood, and ambergris – a sincere homage to Arabian heritage and perfume craftsmanship, showcasing its profound impact on the world of perfumery.

AGEMS HIDDEN

When looking for that perfect niche fragrance to make you stand out, navigating the vast realm of perfumes with many mesmerising scents can feel overwhelming. With a passion for uncovering hidden olfactory gems, perfume connaisseur and ‘fragrance fairy godmother’ Olivia Olfactory (@oliviaolfactory) generously shares some of her most captivating discoveries.

lthough Olivia has always loved fragrances, honing her passion through countless hours spent among her garden blooms and carefully selecting perfumes as gifts for her mother at Christmas, her journey into niche perfumery really began in her adult years. Coming from a blue-collar background, fragrances not commonly found on the shelves of local stores seemed like unattainable luxuries –distant and out of reach. This inspired her to explore beyond the mainstream, seeking out new olfactory treasures. Through her experiences at expos, insights from her loyal audience, and collaborations with smaller brands, she manages to unveil fragrances that defy convention and captivate the senses. Olivia is known for her infectious enthusiasm and innate talent for deciphering fragrance notes. Her reviews are not mere assessments; they immerse her followers in rich imagery, whisking them away on olfactory journeys through landscapes and memories. Her rise from humble beginnings to esteemed perfume critic exemplifies how passion and perseverance can shape destinies and reminds us all that beauty can be found in the most unexpected places. Throughout her extensive olfactory explorations, she has compiled a selection of fragrances deserving the limelight. Discover some of her most precious perfume revelations on the next page!

1

MUST-TRY FRAGRANCES

CUIRISSIME BY J.U.S PARFUMS

As time passes, the memories of my grandmother may fade, but encountering this fragrance instantly brings her back to me. It perfectly captures the essence of her well-loved leather handbag, her faithful companion for two decades. The musk and iris notes remind me of the vintage pink lipstick she used to leave on my cheek with goodbye kisses. The hints of violet leaves evoke memories of crisp midwestern mornings, promising sunny yet cool days. While fragrances that are associated with grandmothers are often underappreciated, for me, they embody cherished memories of enduring love.

2

PORCELAIN PULSE BY ROAN

Imagine savouring the warmth of a cup of spiced Darjeeling tea, while sharing stories with your closest friend. In the background, a subtle dance of dry pipe tobacco and freshly baled hay unfolds, accompanied by hints of dried apricot and pear delicately sweetening the air, creating an enchanting olfactory journey.

4

NAKI BY PERNOIRE

Named after the Arabic word for purity, this fragrance evokes the innocence of youth, capturing pure contentment and a carefree spirit. Crisp green fig leaves, vibrant peach, and passionfruit notes, intertwined with delicate and fresh white florals effortlessly transport you to those joyous, sun-drenched summer days.

LUST BY CHRIS COLLINS

3

SIREN & SAILORS BY JUSBOX

Drawing inspiration from the multifaceted persona of the talented yet troubled Amy Winehouse, this fragrance narrates a story of contrasts. The rugged warmth of patchouli and whiskey harmonises with the velvety smoothness of rose and vanilla, echoing her timeless voice. It encapsulates the raw authenticity and tender vulnerability woven into Amy’s lyrics, reflecting her tough exterior that conceals a delicate soul within.

Indulge in an all-encompassing desire with this captivating fragrance. Sensual oud and musk evoke the intoxicating thrill of newfound love, while warm orris and benzoin add a comforting nuance. A touch of dark chocolate adds a modern twist to the gourmand genre. With its deeply carnal and provocative aroma, Lust invites you to succumb to its seductive allure.

Want to discover more scented gems? Make sure to follow Olivia Olfactory on social media (@oliviaolfactory) for many more fragrance recommendations!

FORMULA THE SECRET

What started in the beginning of the 20th century has blossomed into the incredible Eight & Bob that we know today. Join us on a journey back in time to the origins of this brand, which emerged from French aristocracy. This article explores the history of Eight & Bob, from its early days to the present, culminating in the introduction of two recently launched novelties.

The story of Eight & Bob begins with Albert Fouquet, the son of a Parisian aristocrat, who was deeply ingrained in French high society. His passion for fragrances was unmistakable, and alongside Philippe, the family butler, he crafted his own perfumes in the attic of their family home, adding them to his personal collection.

Whenever he attended social events, the magnificent scent of his creations always attracted considerable attention and compliments. Despite the high demand from those around him, Albert refused to commercialise his fragrance, choosing to keep his work private instead. However, fate took a turn one warm summer night in 1937, during one of his escapades to the Côte d’Azur on the French Riviera. It was there he encountered an intriguing young American student touring France in a convertible: John F. Kennedy.

Just like others before him, John was instantly captivated by the fragrance Albert was wearing. And so, the next morning, Albert left a sample of his coveted fragrance at John’s hotel, along with a witty note that said: “In this bottle, you will find the dash of French glamour that your American personality lacks.”

Upon returning from his holiday, Albert found a letter from John awaiting him. It expressed his gratitude for the fragrance and the enthusiastic feedback from his friends. Still captivated by the scent, John requested a new shipment of

eight perfume samples, adding: “and if your production allows, another one for Bob” (referring to his brother, Robert F. Kennedy).

Eager to ensure the shipment was impeccable, Albert filled several exquisite glass bottles, which Philippe had found at a Parisian pharmacy, with the essence. They then carefully packed each bottle into elegant boxes adorned with a striped pattern, reminiscent of the shirt John wore the day they met. Each box was topped with a label that humorously stated John’s request: “EIGHT & BOB”.

RAGE OF HOLLYWOOD

The fragrance quickly gained popularity in the United States, attracting interest from numerous Hollywood directors, producers, and actors. Among its fans were Cary Grant and James Stewart, who were introduced to the fragrance through John’s father. However, this success was unfortunately short-lived, as Albert’s tragic death in a car accident in the summer of 1939 brought

an abrupt end to the venture. For a few more months, his butler Philippe continued to manage the orders. However, with the onset of World War II, this quickly became unfeasible. Forced to leave his position with the Fouquet family, to whom he had grown very close, Philippe took the secret formula and Albert’s exquisite creations disappeared with him. During the war, only a handful of shipments made it out, concealed within carefully hand-cut books by Philippe to safeguard the fragrances from interception. Decades later, the formula for Albert’s iconic fragrance resurfaced, unveiling the special and secret ingredient at its heart: an aromatic plant from Chile that Albert named ‘Andrea’. Its sprigs are harvested exclusively during December and January, and after a rigorous selection process concluding in March and April, only seven percent is deemed suitable for use. This meticulous procedure determines the number of bottles that can be produced

of this exclusive masterpiece, now known as The Original. Since then, the story and its accompanying scent have reemerged into the spotlight, becoming one of the most exclusive perfumes for today’s sophisticated and refined individuals. This fragrance, along with a few other original creations, have become the foundation of the Eight & Bob brand. Remaining true to their initial creator, these distinctive essences are still crafted using the original formulas once created by Albert and Philippe in attic of their family home.

Did you know that: when you purchase a 100 ml bottle of The Original, it comes hidden in a unique Eight & Bob book, reminiscent of the secretive packaging method Philippe used during World War II?

ROMANCE IN THE ALPES

One of the (re)discovered treasures was Nuit De Megève, a tribute to the night Albert met the love of his life, an Austrian woman called Annicke, at a friend’s preChristmas dinner. She was the most beautiful woman he had ever seen and she instantly became his muse. Upon his return to Paris, he created a new fragrance, weaving together his enchanting memories of that night to cherish and relive them over and over again. After their encounter, Albert wrote a heartfelt letter to Annicke, expressing his longing to see her again. Over the following months, they exchanged numerous letters and, inspired by his growing love, he started creating fragrances that captured her essence. When they finally reunited in Vienna, he surprised Annicke with a fragrance, the first of many he would create for each of their subsequent meetings.

FLOWERS OF LOVE

Years later, Annicke’s fragrances were rediscovered in Albert’s private collection. To preserve these authentic creations, they have been encapsulated in the colourful

Annicke collection. The perfumes now serve as an endless tribute to Albert’s affection for Annicke, capturing romantic olfactory impressions of gorgeous gardens in Paris and Vienna. They blend enchanting floral bouquets with notes like peony, lily of the valley, tuberose, ylangylang, gardenia, and jasmine.

A SCENTED JOURNEY

Paying tribute to Albert Fouquet’s love for exploration, the Iconic Collection serves as a fragrant atlas of his travels. The destinations that inspired him most are now encapsulated in scents that are modern, classic, and elegant. For example, the Egypt fragrance embodies his fascination for Ancient Egypt and commemorates his visit to his childhood friend, Ahmed. Upon discovering his friend’s magical garden, filled with dozens of new flowers, he decided to capture their essences, enabling him to enjoy them forever.

“ EIGHT & BOB IS STILL FAITHFUL TO ALBERT’ S LEGACY”

THE NEXT CHAPTER

In 2022, Eight & Bob started a new chapter with the launch of the Les Extraits Collection, introducing two unique scents. Crafted with highly concentrated formulas created by prestigious perfumers, these extraits embody the brand’s aristocratic character, commitment to craftsmanship, and exclusivity, all while adding a touch of contemporary elegance. True to Albert’s legacy, these olfactory masterpieces are dedicated to cherished ingredients, beloved places, people, and the values held dear by Eight & Bob.

Agneta, revolving around one of the most prized raw materials in perfumery, oud, was the first cornerstone in this line. It evokes the ambiance of the sailboat Agneta, intertwining this ingredient with spicy notes, a swirl of roasted coffee, and a touch of amber. Its counterpart, Guéthary, captures the essence of the charismatic French town after which it was named, with a unique composition imbued with salty and floral notes.

With Champs de Provence, he composed a scent encapsulating the crispness of the wild plants growing there. He gifted a fragrance to an Italian couple that was dear to him, capturing the essence of the Provence landscape as a heartfelt reminder of home, as they moved to the Philippines. Yet, the allure of the French Riviera cast its own spell over him. Enchanted by its charm, golden sunsets, and unforgettable morning sails, he crafted a fragrance to encapsulate those cherished summer days in a flacon: Cap d’Antibes.

“ THE EXTRAITS EMBODY THE BRAND’ S CRAFTSMANSHIP, ARISTOCRATIC CHARACTER, AND EXCLUSIVITY”

NEWLY LAUNCHED

This year, the collection has expanded with two new releases: Le Geste d’Edmond and La Musique de Christie. Meaning ‘the gesture of Edmond’, the first fragrance is an ode to Edmond Albius, renowned for producing the world’s most high-quality vanilla in 1841. The scent exudes an air of mystery and is very seductive, combining the sweet and addictive vanilla essence with oriental and amber notes such as ginger, cinnamon, and clove.

La Musique de Christie honours the legacy of Christie, the visionary behind the annual Glyndebourne Festival. Established in 1934, this prestigious festival has been a fixture in Sussex, England, celebrated within the walls of a majestic opera house. Each year, its magnificent performances enchant audiences, leaving them spellbound. The fragrance, designed to capture the festival’s elegance, releases a harmonious blend of Greek saffron, leather, moss, nutmeg, and patchouli on the skin, weaving a melody of leathery and musky notes that gradually reveals itself.

In addition to its splendid fragrances, Eight & Bob also offers a lavish home and body collection. Stay tuned on this front, as a few exciting launches are coming up later this year!

YOUR CUP OF TEA

Driven by a childhood dream and her grandmother’s magical stories of the magnificent tea flavours and fragrant gardens in China, Catherine Laskine-Balandina made her dream come true with State of Mind. This unique brand intertwines taste and olfaction through precious teas and niche fragrances, delving into their mood-boosting abilities in unique fashion. Nestled in Rue du Bailliage 5 in Versailles lies the oasis of State of Mind, where a very special Olfactory Tea Room invites you to a world of olfactory experiences. With exclusive tea and perfume ceremonies, as well as beautiful silk scarves,

elegant candles, home diffusers, and other accessories, it has all the tools to inspire your senses, elevate your energy, and alter your state of mind.

Want to try a State of Mind perfume tasting? In the chapter 4 mystery box, you can discover one of the fragrances and a matching tea flavour to spice up your day. And when it leaves you craving for more, be sure to take part in our giveaway via the QR-code below. You might win the full-size flacon of this exclusive fragrance and a matching tea flavour…

NOSY ’BOUT NOTES A SUMMER TRINITY

Now that summer’s just around the corner, bringing warm rays of sunshine, sandy beaches, and the blue sea, it’s the perfect time to seek out fragrances reminiscent of tropical destinations. Together with the French family-owned fragrance house Mane, we have selected three fragrance notes that are sure to satisfy your summer wanderlust!

COMPLETELY COCONUTS

Summer isn’t really summer without the nostalgic, creamy, and comforting scent of coconut! Gourmand, milky, and sometimes even toasted, coconut lends a tropical flair to fragrances that balance between freshness and warmth. On the one hand, the tonka-like sweetness radiates warmth that reflects the high summer sun. On the other hand, its fresh, splashy signature is reminiscent of the cool ocean breeze. This duality makes coconut a versatile note that instantly signals brighter days. Despite its name, coconut is not a nut, but rather a fruit. The word coconut is derived from the Portuguese word ‘coco’, a colloquial term for skull. The term is also a reference to ‘El Coco’, a mysterious creature in Iberian folklore. Despite its ties to Portugal, coconut also has roots tracing back to both the Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean basins. The coconut’s extensive spread throughout the world is, therefore, not surprising.

A versatile wonder, coconut is a great source of electrolytes; much like nature’s very own sports drink. The fruit’s flesh is rich in vitamins and nutrients, while its husk and shell can be used to create a variety of products. These many uses have made coconut a valuable commodity for trade and an essential resource for burgeoning civilisations. Flash forward to the present day, coconut evokes pleasant associations with the Caribbean and beachfront bliss. This essence is beautifully captured in Snif’s latest fragrance release, Coco Shimmy. Co-created by perfumers Mathilde Bijaoui and Gino Percontino, Coco Shimmy is an indulgent ode to island life. The fragrance blends pineapple, jasmine sambac absolute, and warm sandalwood with an added coconut kick from two extraordinary ingredients: Coconut

Nat Neo Jungle Essence™ and Cocotone (one of Mane’s unique biotech ingredients) – creating an irresistibly exotic allure. Cocotone, crafted via a natural fermentation process, imparts a toasted essence complemented by a crisp green note, adding a dash of natural freshness – a perfect accompaniment for a day at the beach.

Did you know that despite being mostly associated with coconuts, the palm tree has more than 2,500 different varieties, producing many popular fruits including dates?

TO THE COAST

With its surprising saline note, seaweed is expected to make a big splash as a fragrance this summer! This atypical ingredient delivers a powerful marine scent, where just a little bit goes a long way. Red seaweed, named for its striking crimson colour, is recognised for its soft fronds that have a leathery texture and a palm-like shape. It is often used in aquatic arrangements or as a contrasting element to add depth, offering both a unique texture and a wood-like aspect, as well as a distinctive salty flavour. The first written history of red seaweed is said to be recorded during the 12th century. The vitamin-rich algae was used by sailors across Ireland and Scotland to cure scurvy, caused by a lack of vitamin C. Red seaweed, known for seamlessly blending with foods like green tea to enhance flavour and reduce salt content, is also emerging as an unconventional trend in perfumery. Harvested off the coast of Brittany, France,

palmaria palmata red seaweed is a real shining star as a key ingredient in Mane’s Red Seaweed extraction. The brand Roan’s creation, Current Culture, features a unique blend of Mane’s Red Seaweed Pure Jungle Essence™ and matcha, capturing the essence of the Californian coast. Created by perfumer Claude Dir, the fragrance represents a quiet strength expressed through oceanic freshness and calming tea, and is swiftly becoming a new staple for lovers of the great outdoors.

St. Rose, a modern and nature-minded fragrance brand, also experiments with red seaweed in its latest fragrance, L’Été 67, created by perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui. The mineral freshness of this ingredient flows effortlessly into a bouquet of jasmine petals, and is grounded with earthy vetiver and warm myrrh.

Seaweed is simply a natural summer shakeup, engaging almost all the senses with its beautiful appearance, interesting texture, and specific scent. So if you’re looking for a unique summer fragrance, choose one that features this red sea treasure to truly stand out!

Did you know that red seaweed is one of the planet’s fastestgrowing complete proteins? The high protein levels also contribute to its distinctive red colour.

A TASTE OF LYCHEE

With its smooth, juicy, and exotic allure, it’s no surprise that lychee is stealing the spotlight this summer. Encased in prickly pink skin, the precious and juicy pulp is protected like a pearl in its shell. Despite its small size, this delicious little gem packs a powerful punch, capturing facets of tropical nectar along with delicate hints of blushing rose. The lychee, part of the stone fruit family, originated in China and its history dates back more than 2,000 years. The delicate delight was highly coveted and it was believed that, during the Tang Dynasty, one of the powerful emperors had a horse relay dedicated solely to transporting the revered fruit from the south of China all the way to the imperial court. Today, the lychee remains a beloved culinary ingredient for its flavour and serves as an olfactory inspiration as well.

Used in everything from cocktails to candy and fragrance compositions, the lychee’s floral and fruity flavour and fragrance combination inspires an effortless transition from spring to summer. Natural fruit notes are less common in perfumery due to their high-water content, which makes them harder to extract in comparison to flowers or herbs. To achieve the impression of a lychee scent, perfumers often rely on other notes, also known as an ‘accord’. These can be notes like raspberry and black currant, blended with dewy rose to capture all the facets of lychee. The perfumers at Mane are big believers in the legacy of lychee. Nest New York’s Lychee Rose, a collaboration between NYC perfumers Patricia Choux and Mathilde Bijaoui, was an early influencer in the lychee trend. This scintillating fragrance uses a proprietary ingredient from Mane’s Jungle Essence™ Neo range. This unique ingredient is a co-extraction of lychee pulp and Turkish rose, which creates a beautiful dewy lychee impression with a rosy

swirl. The Jungle Essence™ collection features ingredients produced through supercritical CO2 extraction, a method that employs temperature and pressure to produce extraordinary components with authentic profiles. Each extraction technique captures different characteristics of the raw material, meaning a myriad of scent impressions can be made from the same ingredient. The edge of CO2 is in its ability to capture characteristics from the top, heart, and base of the ingredient, resulting in true-to-nature extractions that portray each ingredient in its fullest form. Crépuscule, another standout creation infused with lychee, was one of four debut scents launched by the niche newcomer, Maison Du Roc. Created by perfumer Richard Herpin, the fragrance leans into the fruit’s floral side to create a fragrance described as ‘a rose with all its thorns’ –perfect for your next summer rendezvous.

Did you know that lychee trees have an extremely long life cycle? In fact, last year marked a monumental moment in China, when a 1,500 year old lychee tree bore fruit for the first time in 11 years!

Are there any specific ingredients you would like to learn more about? Share your ideas with us at: contact@leparfummagazine.com and you might find it in our next chapter of Le Parfum haute magazine!

NEWLY

DISCOVERED

Le Parfum is always on the lookout for new brands. This time we introduce you to three brand new collections that are guaranteed to get you in the summer vibe!

TARAF PERFUMES: SOLID SCENTS

Always on the move but don’t want to sacrifice your signature scent? Enter Taraf’s solid perfumes. Sleek, stylish, and conveniently pocket-sized, they’re your go-to for a quick fragrance fix wherever you are. The collection comprises three unique solid fragrances: the sweet Enchant, creamy Entice, and smoky Evoke. Sustainable and elegant, these fragrances are encased in a refillable metal holder that comes with a luxury velvet pouch. With their wax base, designed to prevent any pigment spots or stains in the sun, these solid perfumes become your new best friend for sunny days. Due to their high fragrance concentration, they are also exceptionally long-lasting. So, as you venture out this summer, don’t forget to bring along your Taraf solid perfume!

RDZ PARFUMS: CARIBBEAN VOYAGE

Rooted in the heart of the Caribbean with a contemporary and urban American touch, RDZ Parfums has emerged as a distinctive brand. Born from a deep love for fragrances and a quest to innovate in perfumery, RDZ Parfums proudly stands as the first niche brand representing Puerto Rico. Five fragrances have been launched, each cherishing and celebrating the beauty and rich culture of this island. From the foliage and exotic flowers to the fresh sea breeze, all elements are captured in these olfactory creations, exuding timeless tropical charm. Leyenda 21 – meaning ‘Legend 21’ – emerges as a standout fragrance for the summer season. Effortlessly capturing the essence of the Puerto Rican paradise, it enchants with a refreshing blend of rose petals, green grass, vanilla, and woody notes, evoking the delights of old San Juan, where beautiful flowers, fresh air, and the smell of freshly brewed coffee intertwine.

Mystikum: THE GRAND DEBUT

This year’s Esxence marked the return of Mystikum, a heritage brand that mesmerises fragrance lovers and industry experts alike. Established in 1920, Mystikum once captivated metropolises worldwide with its enchanting scents. Now, with a triumphant return Mystikum emerges anew, radiating splendour and

allure. With the help of perfumers Alexandre Illan, Mark Buxton, and Ralf Schwieger, Mystikum introduced six new creations. Blending the elegance of yesteryear with contemporary influences, these fragrances will once again captivate perfume connaisseurs with their timeless olfactory tales.

S(C)ENT WITH LOVE

Digitalisation, unfiltered (online) conversations, equality, and inclusivity: Gen Z has redefined the interpretation of love and seduction as we know it. In their quest to decipher Gen Z’s love code, Givaudan, one of the most prestigious fragrance and flavour manufacturers, has unveiled the new immersive exhibition “What is Love?”. This creative endeavour brings to life a unique fragrance experience, capturing the essence of Gen Z’s language of love and seduction, one scent at a time.

Even in the digital age, Givaudan has found that fragrance continues to play a prominent role in Gen Z’s expression of emotions. With the #PerfumeTok hashtag amassing over 3.9 billion views on TikTok, where the average young person spends about 89 minutes per day, perfume continues to be a trending topic – perhaps now more than ever. This is especially true as digital interactions shift to IRL (in real life) encounters, with a staggering 70% of the generation acknowledging that a person’s fragrance can either spark love or serve as a turn-off.

GEN Z’S LOVE FRENZY

By conducting extensive research into Gen Z’s love language through consumer insights and social media analysis, Givaudan has successfully identified the patterns of affection that are unique to this generation. Consider, for instance, their open-mindedness towards sexuality, characterised by judgement-free exploration. Unlike previous generations, their emotional boundaries are less constrained by privacy considerations. Instead, they tend to express their vulnerability through digital and public displays, like break-up videos, crying selfies, or tears of joy. Their expressions of love have increasingly moved to the digital realm, where they share everything from memes and texts to emoji’s, images, and videos –all from their smartphones. The showcasing of love isn’t about idealising relationships or viewing them through rose-coloured glasses. Instead, Gen Z’s #relationshipgoals revolve around expressing genuine and authentic love, by embracing someone in their own unique way.

BREAKING OLFACTORY RULES

Driven by Gen Z’s desire for vulnerability, gender neutrality, (body) positivity, humour, judgement-free attitude, authenticity, transparency, and unfiltered advice, Givaudan has set the stage for redefining the olfactory language of love and seduction. Embracing this generation’s rule-breaking philosophy, the exhibition “What is Love?” was created to embody these traits through unique, fragrant manifestos. Gone are the stereotypical scents; these perfumes boast brandnew accords that go beyond ‘pretty’ – they are as raw, authentic, and as real as Gen Z itself. The fragrances, some crafted in collaboration with the perfumers’ own children, tell stories of love, emoji’s, and surprising ingredient combinations.

Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Head of Global Marketing, Insights & Image, says: “By embracing Gen Z’s reinvention of sensuality, gender, and relationships, “What is Love?” delivers a realistic reading of what ‘love’ means to this generation. The importance attributed to vulnerability and authentic feelings offers an outstanding inspirational playground for our perfumers. By empathising with this

Paris, Dubai, and Shanghai. The setting is like a cosy retreat, featuring the ultimate sanctuary of Gen Z: the bedroom. Often used as a backdrop for social media posts or the place for (online) meetups with friends, this intimate space invites you to immerse yourself fully into the Gen Z universe of love and seduction. Eager to uncover the fragrances that are featured in this exhibition? Turn the page to read more about a selection of the extraordinary creations of “What is Love?”.

“ GONE IS THE STEREOTYPICAL; THESE FRAGRANCES ARE AS RAW, AUTHENTIC, AND AS REAL AS GEN Z ITSELF”

‘rule-breaking’ philosophy and ungendered approach, they have shaken up all olfactive prejudices around attraction and love in perfumery.”

“What is Love?” now presents over 50 fragrances, showcased in an immersive exhibition that has travelled across the globe, stopping at iconic cities like New York,

SMELLS LIKE YOU

“Smells Like You is a modern fougère that weaves together bold ambers, mineral aldehydes, and a contemporary floral heart. I wanted to create a genderless fragrance inspired by the need to smell your love’s scent, and over time, create your unique scent as a couple”

- Perfumer Christine Hassan

SUGARED TEARS

“Sugared Tears is inspired by the power of raw emotions and the healing beauty of tears – for trees and people alike. This is a rich fragrance that harnesses resins as a way to crystalize the human sweetness in all of our tears”

- Perfumer Linda Song

SEGGS

“This gourmand fragrance has a nutty, lickable addiction and a flirty signature. I was inspired to craft a scent that gave each wearer a captivating and sensual aura” - Perfumer Caroline Sabas

THAT’S FIRE

“I set out to design a scent that would make heads turn and halt people in their tracks. This isn’t just a fragrance; it’s a bold creation, with powerful notes of succulent peach and crisp basil that demand attention”

- Perfumer Nicole Mancini

AIR-POPPED PETALS

“This fun-filled composition is built around the encounter of two unexpected ‘bed buddies’: a fantasy accord of freshly popped popcorn, and a fusion of gardenia and pinwheel jasmine”

- Perfumers Carol Belli and Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Did you know that you can discover one of the perfumes of Givaudan’s “What is Love?” in the Le Parfum chapter 4 mystery box? Order yours now on our webshop via the QR code below:

GOING BEAST MODE

Chris Maurice inherited a deep understanding of the artistry of perfumery from his father, also known as the ‘king of Oriental perfumery’. He knows his way around crafting strong Middle Eastern scents. Unafraid to experiment, he often uses generous doses of ingredients in his compositions to extend their sillage. In his first interview ever, Chris reveals his journey as a perfumer within his family’s esteemed lineage, exploring his unique fragrance signature, current trends in the industry, and the inspiration behind his very own business venture: C De La Niche.

Your family’s heritage in perfumery dates back nearly a century, rooted in the establishment of Destilerías Maurice Carbonnel DMC by your grandfather, Maurice Carbonnel (now known as Carbonnel S.A). When did you realise that you wanted to follow in the footsteps of your family and continue the perfume legacy?

I have always been fascinated by perfumes. My dad used to bring me to the lab and we would go on field trips together in Spain to see the plantations. It’s in my blood and I wanted to carry on the Carbonnel heritage. While, initially, becoming a perfumer wasn’t something I envisioned, somehow it ended up becoming part of my journey. When I got older, I became involved in the family business and discovered all the departments, such as

production, laboratory work, export, and sales. When my dad was diagnosed with cancer, I realised the importance of understanding every aspect of our business, which included delving into the art of perfume creation. To really understand the work of perfumers, you need to step into their shoes.

I immediately applied to perfumery schools, all of whom unfortunately turned me down due to my age. It’s honestly because of my wonderful team that has mentored me, that I learned the craft of creating fragrances. That’s why I always say, Chris Maurice doesn’t just stand for me but for my team. Because of that team, I got the chance to immerse myself in perfumery and become a perfumer. Reflecting on the past every now and then, it’s ironic to realise that, despite being turned down by perfumery schools, I’ve managed to carve my way in this industry since 2007, achieving many successes and creating inspiring fragrances along the way. I have proven them wrong, and they truly missed out on a great perfumer!

Your family’s company pioneered Middle Eastern perfumery and has earned an exceptional reputation across the Gulf countries. Are you particularly drawn to Middle Eastern perfumery?

We were among the first to establish our business in Dubai. Initially, our focus was on selling French perfumes, but we encountered resistance from the Arab market. They were accustomed to saffron, musk, amber, and ouds, preferring these scents over the florals, aldehydes, and powdery notes typical of Western

perfumes. To adapt to these challenges, my father made a strategic decision to master the art of creating Middle Eastern fragrances instead. This shift in focus earned him the title of the ‘king of Oriental perfumery’, a reputation he still holds today. This gave our company a significant edge in that domain. He contributed to many iconic fragrances of that era, such as Touch Me by Nabeel and Busaina by Rasasi, which have made a lasting impression. You can imagine this has influenced my personal fragrance preferences as well. I tend to favour perfumes with incense, amber, and woody notes now, in comparison to fresh scents.

is well-known among perfume enthusiasts for its unique and surprising composition, which has been imitated numerous times and has inspired many other creations. And let me tell you: it contains a significant ‘overdose’ of ingredients. While other perfumers may use a moderate amount, I chose to overdose by tenfold.

I think this preference for boldness comes from my background with Middle Eastern fragrances. These tend to be loud and have a potent and enduring presence on the skin. Similar to the intensity of Middle Eastern perfumery,

“ LIKE MIDDLE

EASTERN PERFUMERY, ALL MY FRAGRANCES ARE

STRONG AND LONG-LASTING”

all of my fragrances are strong and long-lasting. Therefore, I’ve consistently opted for generous doses of ingredients, gradually increasing them over the course of my career.

What are the most unique or exclusive fragrance notes you have ever encountered as a perfumer? Definitely woody notes! I’ve always been attracted to those, especially Laosi oud. That’s why I have invested in my own plantation in Laos, where we produce our own signature oud for our Middle Eastern creations.

How would you define your signature style when it comes to fragrance creation?

My signature style centres around what are commonly referred to as ‘beast mode’ fragrances. These are the types of fragrances that truly linger on your skin and remain present for at least a day, even staying on after showering. My love for stronger fragrances also coincides with current market trends, despite being unconventional and relatively unknown when I started as a perfumer. Take for instance Erba Pura, a fragrance I created in 2013. This fragrance

I have a strong affinity for ambrocenide as well, a synthetic ingredient also known as amber or amber woods. In all honesty, if there is no ambrocenide in a fragrance, I don’t like it – it’s that simple. It’s my signature ingredient that I have been using for years now and to me it’s the soul in every fragrance, which otherwise just feels incomplete. Compared to other perfumers, I always like to use an abundance of this particular ingredient in my creations. Although the market wasn’t quite receptive to ambrocenide at the time, it has since become quite a common ingredient

in fragrances, albeit typically in lower quantities than I prefer. I have such a strong preference for ambrocenide that my assistants sometimes tease me with blind tests. But even when presented with twenty or more blotters containing a variety of ingredients, I never fail to pick the one with this specific ingredient. There’s just no way to trick me with this.

Besides your passion for fragrances, you are also a true globetrotter. What is it that you love so much about travelling?

I think how it intertwines with my passion for fragrance creation. In my early days in the commercial industry, I travelled a lot to sell the fragrances my father and Carbonnel S.A. created, as well as to source ingredients directly. I travelled from Indonesia to the Philippines, Thailand, and South America, to find the finest ingredients. This has allowed me to establish good connections with producers, enabling us to source our very own ingredients. Our passion for the distillation of raw materials has made it possible for us to train many others in the process. It has also enabled us to decide how we want the raw materials to be distilled, so the ingredients meet our standards perfectly. Because of our direct sourcing and the quality of these ingredients, we have been able to venture into the niche fragrance industry now and it distinguishes us from others in the field.

In 2019, you launched your very own company and creation studio, C De La Niche, as a free spirit in the perfume sector. What motivated you to take this leap, and how has the company evolved since then?

I think I was at a moment in my life that I wanted to go into a different direction. You know, my father’s focus was very much on the Middle Eastern side of perfumery. I wanted to explore new things, while also seeking new business ventures. This led me to explore the niche side of perfumery, driven by freedom and creativity. Launching C De La Niche fulfilled not only

my wish for a change but also addressed a market need. This industry is often focused on numbers and big brands, which is difficult for younger brands. How can you become a big brand if there’s no one to help you when you start?

Carbonnel S.A. already offers some flexibility in numbers, yet maintains a significant minimum order quantity. This is where C De La Niche comes in, providing a more personalised and creative space where brand size or minimum order quantity are less relevant. It’s about supporting smaller brands in their growth through our expertise and partnership. Witnessing their progress during our collaboration is very fulfilling and makes me so proud. This approach reflects my vision for the industry and aligns with how I like to work.

What are the most significant and impactful trends that you have seen emerging in the niche perfume industry recently?

Last year, cherry was the dominant trend, one that continues into 2024. The same goes for vegetable fragrance notes. This year, however, peach is emerging as a prominent trend, as already predicted by the peachy fuzz pantone colour. But it’s also the year of the ‘lost flowers’ and edible gourmands like vanilla and pistachio. The latter offers a lot of opportunities for creative exploration and experimentation. Because of this trend, niche perfumers can now explore enticing fragrance accords, such as crème brûlée or apple pie. Unlike mainstream fragrances, these notes will then also be prominently present in the fragrance composition instead of just being a note on the packaging. As for future trends, only time will unveil what lies ahead!

Curious to discover more of Chris Maurice’s fragrances? On the next page, you can see one of his latest creations...

PERFUME

PARTY

Ready to explore the ultimate perfume match while mingling with fellow fragrance enthusiasts? Welcome to Memories & Scents, where every perfume journey is a celebration – and you’re warmly invited!

This new initiative, which takes place in the Netherlands, serves as your exclusive guide to the captivating world of high-end niche perfumery. Guided by the belief that fragrances are personal narratives that should suit you perfectly, Memories & Scents inspires you to carve out your own journey in the scented universe. A vast collection of niche perfumes lies at your fingertips, waiting to be discovered. Personal shoppers are available to guide you through the stories behind each fragrance, the heritage of the brands, and the craftsmanship behind every flacon, creating an elevated shopping experience that transcends the ordinary. But there’s more: Memories & Scents also hosts exclusive scent parties for you and your perfumeloving friends. These intimate gatherings enhance the niche perfume shopping experience, providing a cozy, fun, and tailor-made atmosphere where you can explore your own olfactory memories, all captured in the extraordinary fragrances you’ll discover.

Want to unlock your ultimate fragrance signature with a personalised shopping experience or book your ticket for a scent party? Go to: www.memoriesandscents.com

FROM FLOWER TO FRAGRANCE

May marks a special period in the perfume industry: the blossoming season of the star of Grasse – the centifolia rose or Rose de Mai. The story behind this famous flower and other floral treasures from Grasse are now featuring in the new book of dsm-firmenich and Gallimard ‘Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance’. Discover a sneak peek below...

“The centifolia rose is a sought-after ingredient in the perfume industry. As a native of Grasse, my love for the ‘Roses of May’ runs deep and their unique and captivating scent inspires much of my work as a perfumer. Cultivated in the Provence since the 17th century, the centifolia rose has made an important contribution to the prestige of the Grasse region and French perfumery as a whole. Perfumers cherish the rose for its warm and intoxicating scent, characterised by notes of honey and pepper. In terms of production, 600 kilogrammes of rose flowers yield just under two kilogrammes of concrete, and one kilogramme of absolute. Therefore, as you can imagine, the price for the centifolia rose is quite high. Yet, no floral composition available can do without the renowned rosy, green scent with hints of honey found in the centifolia rose!”

- A Rose Like No Other’ by Fabrice Pellegrin, Principal Perfumer and Director of Natural Product Research and Innovation at dsm-firmenich.

Grasse: From Flower to Fragrance’, €39, available via Amazon and the Gallimard bookstore.

LENGLING: THE PERFECT DUEL

wThe family business Maison Lengling was founded in 2014 as Munich’s first perfume house. Led by the couple Ursula and Christian Lengling, their fine fragrances and skincare products tell a tale of duality that, like the yin and yang of their relationship, harmonises contrasting elements into oneof-a-kind scents.

hen you encounter a Lengling perfume, it unveils a narrative of cherished moments, memories, and encounters. Each scent, meticulously crafted by Ursula Lengling, embodies a blend of emotions and perfection to imbue everyday life with a touch of luxury. Ursula invests two to three years in each fragrance launch, infusing them with thought and care. By blending scent with poetry, Ursula's fragrances uniquely embody her inspirations, each telling an intimate, personal story. She breathes life into her creations, using only the finest natural ingredients sourced from around the world. Each ingredient is hand-picked and cultivated using environmentally-friendly methods. Her fragrances are like contemporary works of art, blending intense and extraordinary elements, sealed with a high concentration of perfume oil to ensure remarkable longevity.

ODE TO MUNICH

At the heart of this brand is a meticulous attention to detail, highlighted by their flacon – a sight that might have already captured your attention. Topped with a precious metal cap reminiscent of the iconic ‘Isarkiesel’, a pebble from the Isar river in Munich, it serves as a homage to the city. Each cap is carefully hand-polished to faithfully replicate the exact shape and texture of this renowned pebble.

THE ULTIMATE DUALITY

Lengling embodies an exclusive dual-fragrance concept, symbolising the unique distinctions within the lives of Ursula and Christian Lengling. These fragrances blend two contrasting notes, inspired by their family name: a LENG note and a LING note. These notes are like polar opposites, containing mysterious nuances that gradually unveil themselves during the dry down of the essences. This reveals a harmonious melody that gracefully

develops on your skin, blending and complementing each other in an olfactory dance filled with unexpected twists and turns.

SPARKLING SUMMER

When seeking a fragrance that’s fun, vivid, and opulent, Apéro No 8 by Lengling is what you’re looking for. Meaning ‘apéritif’ in French and steeped in an aura of glamour, it beckons you into a world of indulgence and pleasure. The journey begins with a burst of freshness from the ‘sparkling cuvée’ LENG note, embodying the essence of summer with chardonnay, lime, petitgrain, mimosa absolute, and ginger. This vibrant note is complemented by the ‘summer night’ LING note, featuring heliotrope, tonka bean, cashmeran, musk, jasmine absolute, and oud, creating a warm and comforting swirl that’s utterly irresistible. The essence is as bright as a sunbeam, as sensual and balmy as a summer evening, and sparkles like a glass of champagne. Cheers!

APÉRO NO 8

“THE HEAT OF THE DAY COMES TO A CLOSE AND THE EVENING DRAWS US IN WITH A FRISSON OF EXCITEMENT.

In joyful anticipation, I slip into a freshness that feels like a beautiful beaded dress and exude sophisticated sensuality, dripping with elegance and grandeur. The sun radiates one last fiery glow before handing the spotlight over to me. As the scent of summer fills the air, the evening welcomes my serene presence. I stretch out, embracing my lightness of being, and allow myself to be swept away by the moment…

I rise and raise my glass. Here’s to a sparkling evening!”

PERFUMERY THE EPICENTRE OF

For the ultimate fragrance journey, there’s only one destination where the magic of perfume truly permeates the air: Grasse, France. Together with Jérôme Viaud, the Mayor of Grasse, and Olivier Quiquempois, the curator of the International Museum of Perfumery, we explore the fragrant lineage of the world’s perfume capital, delving into its rich fragrance history, esteemed heritage brands, and the myriad of olfactory treasures it holds.

Grasse is known as the perfume capital of the world. How and why did the city acquire its global status?

Jérôme Viaud: In the 16th century, glove makers and tanners began perfuming gloves and leather

to mask unpleasant odours. Over time, this tradition of craftsmanship developed into a distinctive expertise. Around the 18th century, the Master Glove Makers’ Guild gave birth to the Perfumers’ Guild. From that point forward, all the elements were aligned for perfumery to thrive in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Owing to its esteemed reputation, the city emerged as a pivotal hub for essence and perfume trade, eventually surpassing Montpellier – the other notable perfume centre of that era. Since then, it has been recognised as the world’s perfume capital.

Grasse produces over two-thirds of France’s natural aromas for perfumes and food flavourings. What can you tell us about how Grasse’s microclimate and location have impacted this industry’s success?

Our geographical location has played a fundamental role in our industry’s success. We enjoy a Mediterranean climate, featuring hot, dry summers and mild winters, coupled with an ideal terroir characterised by sunny hills and fertile valleys. This unique blend of soil, climate, and historical expertise has provided Grasse with the optimal conditions for cultivating perfume plants.

In 2018, Grasse’s perfume expertise was recognised as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. Why was this so important for the city and its heritage and which significant changes have occurred since?

The UNESCO recognition was achieved after a decade of hard work, making a significant impact even before our formal acknowledgment. To qualify, we implemented measures such as establishing a sustainable nursery for farmers, now known as the Aromatic Fablab, led by the Association Fleurs d’Exception du Pays de Grasse. This initiative not only contributes to the overall regional

employment but also fosters the agricultural heritage and expertise. Additionally, measures were taken to encourage, develop, and safeguard perfume plant producers through a protective Local Urbanisation Plan (PLU). About 70 hectares of land have been dedicated to perfume plant cultivation since, enabling young farmers to set up business. Over the past five years, we have also prioritised knowledge cultivation through institutions like the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum, ISIPCA, and an MSc in Management of the Flavour and Fragrance Industry at the Côte d’Azur University and EDHEC Business School. Overall, the recognition confirms the historical and cultural importance of Pays de Grasse’s perfume heritage, reinforcing its esteemed status in the perfume industry. It also helps preserve traditional skills and craft techniques used in perfumery for future generations, while stimulating cultural tourism. Recent years have even marked the return of major perfume houses and industry giants such as the Givaudan group, Symrise, Lancôme, and dsm-firmenich, further enhancing Grasse’s prominence as the capital of perfumery.

Which flowers and plants is Grasse most renowned for?

The centifolia rose is the most iconic, which is also symbolised by the pink umbrellas adorning the streets of Grasse. It has a truly unique and aromatic character and a distinctive scent, often described as sweeter and more delicate than other rose varieties. The rose’s profound depth and subtlety contribute to its olfactory complexity, making it an invaluable ingredient in the composition of sophisticated perfumes. Grasse is quite famous for cultivating other flowers as well, such as jasmine, iris, tuberose, violet, orange blossom, lavender, and mimosa. We also grow many wonderful aromatic plants, such as mint, verbena, rose geranium, narcissus, and Madonna lily.

Lots of perfume enthusiasts travel to the province every October for the TFWA Fair in Cannes. Which sites would you recommend visiting in Grasse?

First and foremost, the International Perfume Museum is a must. It’s the world’s only public museum entirely dedicated to the history of perfume. Besides the museum, you also have the International Perfume Museum Garden, a perfume plant conservatory located a mere 15 minutes from Grasse in the municipality of Mouans-Sartoux. In the Pays de Grasse, you can experience the region’s emblematic plants and flowers up close, as they are traditionally cultivated in the fields. You can also explore the city’s most iconic perfumeries, such as Fragonard, Molinard, and Galimard, where you can even create your own fragrance. And be sure not to miss the many artisanal perfume shops! During your visit to Grasse, I’d highly recommend booking a guided tour of the city as well. The guides are knowledgeable about Grasse’s many facets, providing you with the keys to understanding the city, its districts, and all of its highlights. From exploring Grasse’s industrial heritage to immersing yourself in the era of the famous painter Fragonard, or retracing the steps of the protagonist in Patrick Süskind’s novel “Perfume”… each tour unveils a tapestry of scented stories!

The International Perfume Museum was founded in Grasse in 1989. Until this day it is the only museum of its kind in the world. How was it established and with which goal in mind?

Olivier Quiquempois: It all began in 1978 with a proposal from Georges Vindry, the curator of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence. This historical museum, inaugurated in 1921 to commemorate the region’s history, housed extensive collections dedicated to perfume. It was therefore only fitting that a museum dedicated specifically to perfume be established in the world’s perfume capital. The International Perfume Museum opened its doors in 1989 and has since undergone expansions and renovations and was upgraded with a new scenography.

Since the museum’s establishment, the collection has been enriched with interactive technology aimed at engaging all the five senses. What kind of multisensory installations can be explored in the museum?

Our installations are essentially olfactory. Throughout the museum, there are many devices that diffuse odours in close proximity of the visitors, preventing olfactory blending within the exhibition spaces. During our temporary exhibitions, we provide our visitors with multisensory experiences, often incorporating experimental technology or works by contemporary artists.

In 2010 the museum also opened gardens (JMIP) in Mouans-Sartoux, growing thousands of species and

varieties of perfume and aromatic plants. What was the inspiration for this initiative and how has it developed since then?

We noticed that tourists coming to Grasse were no longer able to discover and walk through fields of perfume plants, the very thing Grasse is known for. This led us to envision the creation of a garden to allow them to immerse themselves in the olfactory universe: JMIP. The garden encompasses three hectares of open fields where centifolia roses, Grasse jasmine, tuberose, lavender, and iris grow. These fields are complemented by a conservatory of fragrant and aromatic plants, with trails organised around olfactory notes, creating a botanical garden.

Due to the TFWA fair in Cannes, each October many fragrance enthusiasts travel to the province. Which flowers and plants can visitors experience in the gardens of the International Perfumery Museum during that period in Grasse?

During that period, many flowers are in bloom, including jasmine and osmanthus, alongside tuberose, whose blooming season will then be coming to an end.

So, plenty of reasons to pay the MIP a visit! See you there?

Maison Molinard:

UNLOCK YOUR INNER PERFUMER

This year, Maison Molinard not only celebrates its 175th anniversary, but also the 30th anniversary of its perfume creation workshops! Jean-Pierre Lerouge-Bénard’s wish when he first created L’Atelier des Parfums in 1994 was to raise awareness of the perfumer’s craft, understand the architecture of perfume, and master the essences that compose it. Now, 30 years and 6 boutiques later, Molinard continues to pass on its expertise, making the world of perfume accessible to all – through personal fragrance

workshops. During these workshops, you can define your olfactory interpretation and create your unique formula, which will be treasured and safeguarded by Molinard for you to repurchase and replenish whenever, wherever.

Immerse yourself in a unique olfactory universe at one of the Molinard boutiques in Grasse, Nice, Cannes, or Paris. Book your perfume workshop now via: www.molinard.com

A SCENTED DREAM

In today’s fast-paced world, where all of our senses are often overwhelmed by an abundance of stimuli, it’s essential to reconnect with the magic of your senses. While many of us dream visually, some actually experience the enchantment of smells even while asleep.

This is where the six fragrances of Neydo come into play: Berry Craving, Where Love Belongs, Far Very Far, Blond Redhead, Wood Haze, and Mossland. Crafted like dream

catchers, they beckon you on a journey that’s out of this world, blurring the lines between day-to-day life and the realm of dreams.

Are you an olfactory dreamer too?

Take the online test via this QR-code and find out!

NEYDO:

KAJAL PERFUMES:

MIDDLE EASTERN

K TREASURES

What started as a journey in the beauty world culminated into a mission to capture the essence of beauty and elegance in a flacon. As Kajal Perfumes Paris celebrates its 10th anniversary, we set out to explore the inspiration behind this brand, its enchanting fragrances, and Kajal’s latest creation: Äican.

ajal was established in 2012, when two fragrance connaisseurs, Ibrahim Faris and Moe Khalaf, crossed paths. Drawing from their experience in the beauty industry at prestigious businesses, they merged their passion for luxury scents to establish their own brand: Kajal Perfumes Paris. Their experience in the cosmetics and fragrance industry laid the foundation for the exotic name of the brand. In addition to drawing inspiration from the Arabic word ‘Khajal’, meaning humble and modest, the name ‘Kajal’ also pays homage to Indian culture, specifically referencing the renowned kohl eyeliner. This iconic eye makeup embodies the beautiful vision of Kajal; that your natural beauty should be enhanced, not altered.

CLASSIC MEETS INNOVATION

Kajal’s fragrances have a timeless character with a contemporary twist, many composed with original combinations of ingredients for a unique signature. The brand is most renowned for its outstanding floral, woody, and amber perfumes, which form the pillars of the collections. Seeing luxury fragrances as akin to art, these perfumes are as captivating as exquisite jewellery. Adorned with either copper, silver, or gold accents, the flacons boast intricate etchings that harmonise with the stories of the scents they hold.

The three collections within Kajal draw inspiration from symbolic elements of the Middle Eastern region: geometry, biomorphs (nature-inspired shapes), and calligraphy. The flacons in the Fiddah Collection have caps with geometric shapes commonly used in architecture. The floral-inspired pattern is emblematic of the Wardé Collection, where the rose shape symbolises the world of flowers. Lastly, the Classic Collection seamlessly integrates the art of calligraphy, a cherished Middle Eastern tradition, with delicate words artistically fused into each piece. These ornate letters form eight names, symbolising gold within the Middle Eastern culture: Tibr (pure gold ore), Asjad (gold combined with other precious metals), Ziryab and Lamar (liquid gold), Al-Ibriz (refined and purified gold), Äican (refined and purified gold used in moulds), and Zahab (referring to the flux of gold).

NEW: ÄICAN

After teasing online glimpses of a mysterious new masterpiece, Kajal has at last revealed its latest creation, Äican, at Esxence in Milan. The name, reminiscent of “I can”, embodies positivity, drawing inspiration from the enduring radiance of gold, which remains undiminished, even in darkness.

The fragrance inspires you to illuminate the darkness through optimism, resilience, and growth. This sentiment is reflected in the fragrance composition, incorporating mandarin (a symbol of good fortune), ginger (renowned for its healing properties and ability to inspire harmony and balance), and sandalwood (known for its protective qualities and ability to enhance inner radiance).

These meaningful notes meld into a tantalising tropical burst of passion fruit, pineapple, black pepper, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli, praline, amber, and musk, becoming your olfactory lucky charm. Enclosed within the luxury packaging is a rosewood holder designed not only to hold two extra perfume samples but also 12 affirmation cards. So, whenever you’re in need of a positive affirmation, you can simply turn to your flacon for an empowering phrase: “We can, you can, I can!”

SUMMER JEWELS

Kajal’s creations are an ode to the captivating tales that inspire them, each a scented gem in its own right. Lamar Caviar stands as a pinnacle, drawing inspiration from golden pearls. Crafted as the first-ever alcohol-free fragrance using Microcaps’ patented ‘perfume-pearls’ technology, it is infused with transparent pearls. These serve as the preservative, breaking upon application to release an alluring burst of sweet, fruity, floral, and woody notes. Another renowned treasure is Masa, translating to ‘singular diamond’ in Arabic. It effortlessly captures the brilliance of this jewel, exuding fresh, amber, and woody nuances for a radiant scent. Capturing the hue and essence of silver, Fiddah is as precious as the material that inspires it. With just one spritz, it enchants you with an ethereal shimmer, enveloping you in a mysterious swirl of floral, fruity, leathery, amber, and tobacco notes.

FIDDAH WARDÉ CLASSIC

Q&A WITHTHE PERFUMERS

What was the inspiration behind Äican?

The idea behind Äican was to create a signature and exclusive fragrance that is voluptuous and intense, but also rich, elegant, and luxurious, as Äican is the essence of gold. This fragrance is all about balancing precious fragrance notes that evoke feelings of seduction, optimism, and self-confidence.

This novelty is all about positive affirmations. How is the theme of positivity embodied in the fragrance composition?

Äican has a radiant and captivating composition, combining freshness and sensuality. The top notes include mandarin, passion fruit, and pineapple, creating a vibrant and tropical symphony. This burst of fruity delight, enriched by sweet vanilla and praline notes, definitely creates positive emotions.

Praline is a very uncommon ingredient in perfumery. Is this ingredient crafted by blending multiple fragrance notes into an accord, or does it originate from elsewhere?

At EPS Fragrances, we have invented and patented MOPAD™ Headspace Technology (Molecule Oriented Phase Adsorption Desorption Technology). This advanced technology enables us to analyse all living flowers, fruits, flavours, and foods, to then recreate their odours. In this fragrance, we have captured the natural fragrance of ‘praline’ and then recreated its scent.

What would you say defines the signature of Kajal and how is this signature integrated into the fragrance?

Kajal’s iconic signature originates from a heart of amber, crafted through a sophisticated blend of amber molecules, harmoniously paired with musk and woods. These unique

amber molecules yield various aromas and tonalities on individual skin, while maintaining remarkable longevity.

What was the greatest challenge during the creation process of Äican?

To create the perfect balance, ensuring longevity, while harmonising the intense amber, woody, sweet vanilla, and praline notes with a fresh and fruity blend.

What, in your opinion, is the most distinctive aspect of the fragrance that truly sets it apart?

Äican is a rich and multifaceted scent with various dimensions. Fruity notes like passion fruit and pineapple harmonise with the spicy allure of ginger and black pepper, alongside the delicate floral touch of jasmine. Lastly, the well-balanced combination of vanilla, praline, patchouli, vetiver, and Äican’s strong amber facet provides a warm and indulgent foundation.

Would you like to dive deeper into EPS Fragrances? Turn the page to discover more about the fragrance house.

Hüseyin Erdoğmuş, Gökhan Şimşek & Özge Erdoğmuş Altınel from EPS Fragrances

PALETTE The COUPLE’S

Andrea Charls and Anthony Tóth, also known as Curly Scents (@curlyscents) and Atothfragrance (@atothfragrance) are fragrance influencers by day and musicians by night. This dynamic couple shares a profound mutual passion for the artistry of fragrance. Together, they have cultivated a dedicated following of over 400,000 across YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok. Their carefully curated collection stands out for its versatility, featuring fragrances that transcend gender boundaries, allowing each bottle – and each fragrance – to be universally cherished and enjoyed.

Nowadays, the distinctions between ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ fragrances are increasingly fading. For us, this shift marks an exhilarating era in the fragrance world! More and more fragrance enthusiasts are challenging traditional fragrance marketing conventions, and are enjoying scents based on how they make you feel, rather than what people think they’re supposed to be wearing.

Building a fragrance collection or ‘wardrobe’ as a couple actually happened quite naturally and almost by accident. One day, Anthony decided to sneak a few sprays of a fragrance from my designated shelf, and the next day I headed to the gym, wearing one of his favourite fragrances. This created a lot of loving banter and laughter between us, but then things clicked. Why don’t we buy fragrances that we both love and simply share them? Furthermore, how much fun would it be to match our fragrances according to our mood, our environment, or key notes in perfumes that we both adore? Reflecting on our collection now, the concept of designated shelves has disappeared – everything is equally cherished and available to us both.

Some days we enjoy wearing the exact same fragrance. This saves money and helps us to actually finish our bottles (which can be difficult for fragrance influencers). It also creates a bigger scent bubble that leaves an even more powerful impression, enabling us to enjoy the fragrances on each other, not just ourselves.

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Other days, we like to spice things up and find a way to match our fragrances through a mood or specific ingredient. Date night on a chilly evening? Perhaps we could choose fragrances that both have a warm vanilla base. A walk by the river on a sunny spring day together? How

about something uplifting, airy, or soothing? The possibilities are endless and it’s an easy way to add a whole new dimension to choosing your #SOTD (scent of the day). Already curious to try it out yourself? Find some of our favourite summer couple fragrances below!

COUPLE FRAGRANCE RECOMMENDATIONS

SUMMER DATE NIGHT

Entice your partner with these irresistibly delectable fragrances:

DISCOVER MORE TIPS:

3 EVERYDAY CASUAL

Alluring and intoxicating fragrances with a comforting touch:

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BEACH DAY

These fragrances will evoke the feeling of relaxing at a beachside bar, surrounded by music and friends:

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FORMAL OCCASSIONS

Scents that will make you feel confident, refined, and sophisticated:

GnTonic by M. Micallef

Bois Impérial by Essential Parfums

Guidance by Amouage

Sweetie Aoud by Roja Parfums

Ani by Nishane

Blanche Bête by Liquides Imaginaires

Moonlight in Heaven by Kilian Paris

Almaz by Kajal

Mojave Ghost by Byredo Molecule 02 by Escentric Molecule

Another 13 by Le Labo

Borabora by Giardini Di Toscana

UNRAVELLED: ENFLEURAGE

At the very root of perfumery lies enfleurage, the oldest procedure for extracting essential oils from the most delicate flowers. Despite its ancient origins, this technique remains in use by a select few fragrance and flavour manufacturers to capture the most captivating scents for their creations. Collaborating with the esteemed Robertet Group, known for their mastery of enfleurage, we explored the intricacies of this artisanal extraction method.

You may be familiar with the Robertet Group, a prominent French fragrance and flavour manufacturer. Founded in 1850 as a family enterprise, it boasts a remarkable legacy, spanning four generations and more than a century in the industry. Robertet’s diverse portfolio encompasses fragrances, flavours, and health and beauty products, all based on natural raw materials gathered from the initial seed stage through harvesting, then subjected to extraction and refinement processes. Among their specialised extraction techniques is enfleurage, a traditional French extraction method that has been used for more than two centuries. But what is the history behind this process and how does it work exactly?

WHAT IS ENFLEURAGE?

Enfleurage comes from the French word enfleurer, meaning ‘enflowering’ – to extract essential oil from flowers. The method was pioneered by the French perfumer Piver in 1750, leveraging the capacity of (animal) fat to absorb fragrances from the most delicate flowers. Since its inception, this age-old

technique has significantly contributed to the perfume industry by enabling the extraction of fragrances from more delicate and exotic flowers.

To properly absorb the fragrance of these flowers, enfleurage is mostly used with flowers that continue to release their fragrance for hours after picking, like jasmine, tuberose, peony, gardenia, violet, rose, and lilac. There are two types of enfleurage: hot enfleurage (or maceration) and cold enfleurage, and their application is determined by which flowers are used. The first type is used for flowers like rose, violet, mimosa, and lily of the valley. These specific flowers already transfer their fragrance oil by simply being heated between 40 to 60 degrees in a pan with oil.

However, there are certain fragile flowers, such as jasmine and tuberose, that contain heat-sensitive chemical compounds. Because of these compounds, the flowers wither and die when exposed to those temperatures, altering their fragrance along with it. This is where cold enfleurage comes in, the most popular enfleurage method used in perfumery. Via this method, the fat is not heated but instead stored in solid form on a glass tray, topped off with a layer of fresh flowers to fully absorb their fragrant oil without damaging the flower or its natural scent.

The extraction time varies depending on the flower. With tuberose, it generally takes about three days, whereas jasmine only needs one day. Despite enfleurage being a very time-consuming and therefore expensive method, it’s rewarding as it results in the highest quality oil, truly capturing the essence of the flower as closely as possible. While the popularity of enfleurage declined significantly since the 1930s due to the introduction of new solvent extraction methods, it has experienced a resurgence in recent years among artisan perfumers. This revival often involves modernising the technique, such as using vegetable fats like coconut oil instead of traditional animal fat.

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HOW DOES ENFLEURAGE WORK?

A glass plate, encased in a wooden frame called a chassis, is coated with a thin layer of odourless animal or vegetable fat, leaving a slight gap between the fat and the wood. The fat is applied only on one side of the glass, leaving the other side free for the placement of flowers. In preparation of the enfleurage, the fat on the glass is combed to increase the absorption surface and allow for air circulation around the flowers.

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Some manufacturers directly place flowers onto the fat. However, Robertet opts for a different approach, positioning the petals on glass instead. When the frames are stacked, the fragrance from the flowers permeates upwards, reaching the layer of fat while preventing direct contact.

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The flowers are meticulously handpicked and thoroughly cleaned to eliminate any morning dew from the petals. They are then carefully and precisely spread out above the layer of fat.

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After 48-72 hours, the flowers are replaced with fresh ones and the glass panes are cleaned and dried. This process, known as désenfleurer, continues until the fat is fully saturated with the oil extracted from the flowers, matching the quantity of the flowers with the desired amount of essential oil. The final result is an ointment known as ‘pomade’.

Once the enfleurage process is complete, the pomade is carefully scraped off the glass pane using a spatula. This is followed by a gentle stirring and melting at a low temperature, after which the ointment is dissolved in alcohol.

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This liquid then gets filtrated and cooled to remove any residues.

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Lastly, the alcohol is evaporated, leaving behind the precious absolute.

This wraps up the extraction process of enfleurage, leading to precious absolutes that are used in the most beautiful fragrance creations. Is there another extraction method you would like to learn more about? Let us know via: contact@leparfummagazine.com and you might find it in our next chapter of Le Parfum!

WHERE MODERN

MEETS CLASSIC

Since its inception, Parfums de Marly has dominated the niche perfume industry, earning a permanent place in the collections of fragrance enthusiasts all over the world. Adorned with the renowned horses of Marly, their audacious classics blend French savoir-faire with 18th-century allure and contemporary flair, resulting in truly regal masterpieces. Join us as we delve into the captivating history of this iconic brand, exploring the splendour of Parfums de Marly from every angle.

Since 2009, history aficionado and creative visionary Julien Sprecher has infused vitality into the independent perfume brand Parfums de Marly. His muse? The Château de Marly, which is located a stone’s throw from his childhood home. This renowned estate, inherited by King Louis XV from his great-grandfather Louis XIV, also known as the Sun King, epitomises opulence and delight. Renowned for his lavish gatherings, affectionately referred to as ‘Marlys’, the king often entertained esteemed guests with dances, feasts, sports, and arts. Yet, it was Louis XV’s passion for horsemanship that left the most enduring legacy at the château: the Marly horses. At the palace entrance stood two majestic statues

of horses, sculpted by Guillaume Coustou in 1743. These works of art can still be admired today in the heart of Paris at the Champs Elysées Avenue, as well as on the flacons of Parfums de Marly. Inspired by the 18th-century coat of arms, these noble steeds have become the symbol of the brand, along with the year in which they were created. And as for the king’s purebreds? They were renowned for their speed, ultimately producing the fastest horses in the world.

THE GOLDEN ERA

Louis XV’s reign didn’t only mark impeccable horsemanship but also introduced the golden era of perfumery. Known as the ‘Perfumed Court’, it was at the palace’s doorstep that the greatest perfume dynasties emerged, building the foundation on which modern perfumery rests today. Everywhere you turned, there lingered a whisper of scented magic, from perfumed bags to hand fans, gloves, and ornate fountains.

Transporting us back to the 18th century, a time when the palace exuded delight and perfumery flourished without being mass-market oriented, Parfums de Marly captures the essence of the Château de Marly and its French art de vivre. From the signature look of the flacons to the fragrance names and characters, each element echoes a piece of the palace’s heritage. The extravagant compositions transcend mere trends, bringing together contemporary flair with classical refinement in bold yet sophisticated olfactory masterpieces.

OLFACTORY FREEDOM

Artistic freedom lies at the heart of Parfums de Marly’s creations, providing Julien Sprecher and the esteemed perfumers behind Parfums de Marly carte blanche to explore their own olfactory paths. This liberty fosters the creation of the most unique fragrance families, crafted with the finest ingredients and expressed in a diversity of styles. By categorising their creations into feminine and masculine fragrances, they have access to an extensive creative palette of raw materials, unrestricted by the constraints of genderless notes. This

freedom also extends to the wearer, as each perfume is crafted to serve as a canvas for self-expression, free from taboos or limitations. Time has no dominion over the creation of Parfums de Marly fragrances; each one must embody perfection, from the seamless blend of fragrance notes to the exquisite bottle that houses the precious essence. The fragrances exhibit a multi-faceted character rich in contrasts. Whether they reflect the allure of a seductress or the sophistication of a refined gentleman, each perfume has a striking formula that evokes emotion in its own distinct way.

DARING CLASSICS

Within the collections, Parfums de Marly has several fragrances that consistently steal the spotlight. These addictive and chic bestsellers dominate the fragrance charts for good reason, making them a must-try for fragrance lovers! At the forefront of the Masculine Signature Collection is Layton, an enchanting and captivating fragrance. Since its launch, it has enamoured countless individuals worldwide. Layton begins with a tangy blend of bergamot and apple, infused with fresh tones of lavender and geranium. The freshness evolves in a warm medley of amber and spicy pink pepper, culminating in an irresistible fusion of vanilla, caramelised coffee, and soft woods. Perfumer Hamid Merati-Kashani explains his inspiration for the fragrance stems from the palace and its renowned horse races: “I imagined waterfalls of aromatic scents bursting from the royal fountains as racehorses set out to shine in the equestrian activities.” Encased in sophisticated matte midnight blue, this bold yet velvety masculine fragrance epitomises seduction, lingering with a sensual allure. When it comes to ‘love at first smell’, Delina emerges as the fragrance of choice. Crafted by Quentin Bisch, this fragrance is perhaps the most iconic of Parfums de Marly, serving as the cornerstone of the renowned Delina Collection. It exudes femininity, characterised by a breathtaking bouquet of florals – the Turkish Damascena rose, lily of the valley, and peony. These

floral stunners are complemented by a vibrant trio of lychee, bergamot, and rhubarb, underscored by warm vanilla, subtle white musks, and cashmeran, before embracing you in mysterious notes of woods and frankincense. Sparkling yet sweet, delicate yet voluptuous, Delina intrigues with its captivating composition, transcending fleeting trends. Among the latest fragrance releases, the warm Althaïr by Hamid Merati-Kashani and Ilias Ermenidis emerges as a standout masterpiece. Paying homage to the direct descendant of the renowned bourbon vanilla, initially introduced during the reign of Louis XV, this fragrance takes this classic ingredient to a new level with a modern twist. Through a harmonious interplay of contrasting notes, this warm yet refreshing scent with aromatic bergamot and spicy cardamom enthralls from the very first spritz. Its heart of vanilla and elemi exudes a sweeter dimension, complemented by a clean base of musk and ambrofix, which imparts a subtle woody undertone. Highly recommended for enthusiasts of gourmand fragrances seeking a delightful balance of sweetness and modern freshness.

NEW: PERSEUS

Perseus by Nathalie Templer bears the emblem of French royalty: the sun. It pays homage to both French monarchs and the radiant sunbeams that grace the majestic Château de Marly in the early morning. Defined by a sparkling allure of pink grapefruit and a heart of earthy vetiver, the fragrance takes you on a refreshing journey as radiant as the sun itself. Julien Sprecher explains: “Perseus’ secret lies in the novel blending of very classic men’s fragrance ingredients – notably the brightness of grapefruit, which contrasts immediately with an elegant, woody facet.” Anchored by a long-lasting base of ambergris and dry woods, this sun-kissed fragrance promises to accompany you on your endless holiday adventures, leaving an enchanting impression wherever you go!

NOÈME PARIS: GATEWAY TO PARADISE

The creations of the French perfumery house Noème Paris are described as ‘the unreachable’, as they are simply out of this world, evoking a sense of being beyond ordinary reach. They invite you on a never-ending journey to the unknown.

You may recognise Noème Paris by its distinctive cap with a half-circle shape and its subtle yet meaningful art. The commitment to craftsmanship and artistry is evident in every aspect, from the symbols and illustrations on the packaging to the compositions of the fragrances. Take for example the diamond-

shaped ‘losange’ on the packaging, which refers to the holy Mayan temples in South America. This symbol depicts the Greek snake Ouroboros biting its tail as the ultimate sign of the unreachable – the infinite. This same Ouroboros shape is also engraved on the cap, along with a quote from Albert Einstein: “Fantasy is more important than knowledge.”

NEW: KALAHARI EXTRÊME

Noème Paris’ catalogue consists of ten fragrances crafted in France, including two Limited Editions and two collections: the Iconic Collection and the Chaman Collection. Their most recent release is Kalahari Extrême, a summertime sequel that enhances the original Kalahari with increased longevity and an infusion of eternal summer. As mystifying as the African Kalahari Desert from which it draws its name and the mysteries it holds, this fragrance reveals itself through a myriad of unexpected notes, unlocking the secrets of the unknown. A sunny synergy of pear, anise, myrrh, pink berries, cardamom, and incense emerges, ensuring a lasting impact that transcends time.

Alcohol-free EDP: everything

about WATER-BASED PERFUMES

With sustainability becoming increasingly important, a new trend has emerged in the perfume industry: water-based perfumes. The name hints at their connection with the base of the perfume. But what defines water-based perfumes, and what advantages do they offer?

Perfumes usually consist of two key elements: the perfume oil, responsible for infusing the fragrance with its distinctive scent, and a solvent, crucial for ensuring safe application. When looking at the INCI list on the back of perfume packaging, two ingredients generally come up first: alcohol denat. or ethanol/ethyl alcohol, and aqua, meaning water. These two liquids are commonly used as the fragrance’s solvent. While the solvent evaporates quickly upon contact with the skin, it often leaves behind a lingering odour and may potentially cause skin irritation or dryness with frequent use. Enter waterbased perfumes!

Primarily created with all-natural ingredients, these water-based fragrances hold a special appeal for cleanbeauty enthusiasts, individuals with sensitive skin or allergies, and those who appreciate subtle scents. Alcohol-free fragrances are renowned for their clean and fresh character, offering a less overpowering trail with a smoother and silkier sillage. But don’t let that softness

fool you; some water-based perfumes are known to last longer than their alcohol-based counterparts! Thanks to their solvent (water), the scent evaporates slower and leaves a more natural scent right away, without the initial and distinctive alcohol odour. Water-based fragrances effortlessly bond to your skin, revealing the true colours of the composition more rapidly, while also lingering with an intimate scent aura. Due to their alcohol-free composition, water-based perfumes also help retain moisture in your skin, allowing for versatile use in various applications, ranging from everyday fragrance to body spray, hair spray, and even room spray. In the past, water-based perfumes often left a sticky, milky residue on your skin. Thankfully, advancements in emulsion technologies have made this inconvenience a thing of the past. Now, you can confidently apply your fragrance without having to worry about staining your tan or clothes!

Inspired to start wearing water-based perfumes? Discover some of our favourites below!

SEDUCTIVE ROSE

Revealing the gorgeous rose in all its facets, this elixir invites you to a sensorial experience. Crafted with an innovative formula, it blends the majestic red rose with cardamom, saffron, sandalwood, white patchouli, cedarwood, and labdanum. Powerful yet soothing, it celebrates your beauty in a bewitching and irresistible way, lingering on your skin for over 12 hours. Wynwood, Good Water Perfume, created by Juan Carlos Rustarazo

LIKE A FINE WINE

Even in water-based fragrances, one might detect a subtle yet discernible note reminiscent of wine. This blend adheres to the principles of clean beauty, seamlessly combining spices, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, fruity prune, and a warm, rich base of woods and leather. The result is a scent that mirrors the smooth opulence of your favourite wine. Santé! Opulent Wood, Maison Sybarite, created by Antoine Lie

DREAM CATCHER

Embark on an aromatic voyage into the realm of dreams as you step into a marvellous garden of gardenias. There, lively hints of lemon, a whisper of green tea, and fresh notes of melon whisk you away to a charming and otherworldly universe. Dreamscape, House of James, created by Justin James

EYE-CATCHING NOVELTIES SUMMER

A MIDSUMMERNIGHT DUO

Two celestial entities, both powerful and magnetic, engage in a romantic dance beneath the stars. Fik pays homage to the Efik people of Nigeria. After a fresh opening, the fragrance releases sensual, amber-infused wood tones, exuding hints of tonka bean and vanilla. The fragrance prominently features African elements, such as Tunisian rosemary, Egyptian geranium, and Nigerian ginger essence.

Gleti embodies the moon goddess, revered by the Fon people of the Dahomey Kingdom. In this fragrance, the juicy and textured clarity of pear unfolds, followed by a grandeur of white flowers, with Tunisian neroli and Egyptian jasmine harmonising in elegance. This aromatic embroidery is enriched by Madagascan ylang-ylang, the delicate blossoms of Egyptian cassie, and a base of musk, vetiver, and sandalwood. You can wear these scents separately, or layer them for a unique scented journey! Fik and Gleti, Scent of Africa, created by Nelly Hachem-Ruiz and Julien Rasquinet

TROPICAL PARADISE

Kickstart your day with a burst of tropical goodness! This fragrance is like a fruity paradise, flaunting juicy peach, fresh apricot, elegant rose, and alluring peony, with a soft and musky base. Everything you need to float in a cloud of divine fruitiness from sunrise to sundown. Fabulous, Lord Milano, created by Moellhausen

TAKE ME TO ITALY

Picture this: a romantic dinner by the shore in Italy, enveloped in the whispers of black vanilla orchid and the enchanting blossoms of magnolia, jasmine, and oleander. Orchid K captures the magic of this moment through a sensory delight of marshmallow, saffron, petitgrain, and incense, creating an olfactory journey that lingers on your skin for a lifetime. Orchid K, Ella K Parfums, created by Sonia Constant

ARE YOU CEREAL?

The phrase ‘A bowl of cereal a day keeps the doctor away’ was coined by Claudio Zucca, who launched a perfume reminiscent of his childhood. The snack gave him an energy boost and made him feel like he could move mountains, inspiring a fragrance that is a delightful blend of sweet milky gourmand notes reminiscent of beloved breakfast cereals, such as cookies, hazelnut, white chocolate, milk, honey, and red fruits. Cereal Break, Claudio Zucca, created by Claudio Zucca

SMOOTH SAILING

The name Oceanoir might suggest a dark, heavy aquatic fragrance reminiscent of the Kraken of the Caribbean. However, it’s not the embodiment of the rough sea, but more like a serene voyage on a wooden ship across a sparkling ocean. This delightful scent combines marine fruitiness with a fresh accord of seaweed and citrus and the unique notes of salt crystals, bougainvillea, and pine balm. Oceanoir, Coreterno, created by Luca Maffei

NUTRITION FOR THE SOUL

Meaning joie de vivre in Chinese, the Italian brand Jijide is a true story of friendship between a fusion of cultures. Aiming to convey the richness of both the Italian and Chinese culture, Jijide celebrates individuality and inclusivity. Exciting news: they’ve just released two new fragrances, named Riso and Grano – both gourmands representing contrasting cultural cuisines. Rice, translated as riso in Italian, symbolises China’s culinary heritage. Its fragrant scent immediately evokes the essence of daily life and homes in China. It features edible notes such as rice, soy sauce, and kumquat, a beloved citrus fruit commonly enjoyed as a snack and cultivated in China. Grano, or wheat in Italian, holds a central role in both Italian and European culinary heritage, featuring prominently in dishes like pizza, pasta, and pastries. The fragrance’s ingredients, including notes of dough, moist grass and soil, along with bread, instantly evoke the atmosphere of an urban city after rainfall, especially when you catch the scent of freshly baked bread from the oven. Hmm! Riso and Grano, Jijide, created by Zimo Luo and Nour Akoum

UNLEASH YOUR ALLURE

Looking for an ultra-feminine stunner that leaves a lasting impression with a remarkable 30% perfume oil concentration? Then Calda is your new go-to: a romantic fragrance that ignites the fire within from the moment the perfume drops land on your skin. Its sensual blend of jasmine, musk, amber, and vanilla whisper softly into the night, while a refreshing combination of champagne, lychee, cotton candy, and cassis adds an invigorating spark. Unleash your charm with Calda as your silent enchantress. Calda, L’Arc Parfums, created by Mirella Pomina

FITS LIKE A LEATHER GLOVE

Transport yourself to the sun-soaked hills of Tuscany with this elegant and warm leather fragrance by Plume Impression. It’s like experiencing la dolce vita in a bottle, as this fragrance combines elegant suede with luxurious iris and the inviting warmth of amber hues. Onda d’Oro, Plume Impression, created by Alexis Dadier

PURPLE ENCHANTER

Since 1759, the Kew Gardens in London have curated an exceptional collection of rare and intriguing plants. However, on its lawns, one particular bright purple flower has captured attention: the seemingly innocent violet. Though delicate and unassuming, it harbours a deeply sensual charm, with its subtle yet magnetic combination of cumin and sandalwood, creating an intriguing fragrance. This mysterious scent captivates everyone, enhancing well-being as a special benefit... Violette Kew, Le Jardin Retrouvé, created by Maxence Moutte

EAU D’UMBRELLA

The Wagasa, a Japanese umbrella, garners praise not only for its stunning aesthetics and masterful artistry but also as a stylish accessory within Japanese culture. When paired with a velvety sandalwood, the fragrance provides a creamy, enveloping sensation reminiscent of a second skin. It’s an uplifting composition that brings a smile to your face – on rainy as well as sunny days. Santal Wagasaii, Maison Incens, created by Eric Gigodot

SCIENCE, ART & SUSTAINABILITY

Have you had a chance to explore Infiniment Coty Paris’ collection yet? They’ve introduced 14 fragrances, categorised into three collections: I Am Dawn (fresh scents for mornings), I Am Day (iconic daytime blends), and I Am Dusk (sensual evening perfumes). L’Amour Pourpre revolves around the interplay between lavender and amber, as if caressed by the golden hour of Provence. L’Amour Pourpre, Infiniment Coty Paris, created by Dora Baghriche

TONKALICIOUS

For those whose quintessential summer experience involves a delicious breakfast by the shore, basking in the warm embrace of the golden sun and the gentle, soothing rhythm of waves in the distance, Tonkaholic is the perfect companion. It seamlessly combines the memories of Ipanema Beach with the salty essence of the sea and the enticing aroma of coffee and breakfast pastries, courtesy of delectable tonka beans. This enchanting elixir captivates the senses, offering an infinite and delicious summer scent. Tonkaholic, Esse Strikes The Notes, created by Paolo Cerizza and Luca Maffei

SPELL OF LOVE

Cupid’s arrow has truly struck its target with this enchanting new love potion. Drawing inspiration from the intricate nature of love, this composition of soft and tempting sensations weaves a loving tale of sensuality, delicacy, nostalgia, and contrasts. Like the initial electric spark between two soulmates, this love spell begins with burst of spicy pink pepper and zesty bergamot. As the symphony unfolds on your skin, it gradually transitions into a tender and creamy heart of orris and rounded immortelle, enveloping you like a lover’s embrace. Finally, a gentle duet emerges, blending smooth sandalwood with supple suede for a comforting yet sensual touch. A timeless tribute to love that will have you falling head over heels! Cupid’s Kiss, Electimuss London, created by Julien Rasquinet

SLOW SUMMER

In need of a sensorial reset? This fragrance offers the soothing experience of being asleep in the sun, embracing the golden warmth of the present moment. It unfolds like golden light caressing your skin, revealing notes of citrus, forest pepper jungle essence, mimosa absolute, guaiac wood, vetiver bourbon, patchouli, and saffron. Carpe diem! Dormir Al Sol, Frassaï

TWINKLING STAR

A fragrant recounting of a childhood memory unfolds as founder Thibaud Crivelli recalls his initial encounter with tuberose flowers while gazing at the comets and the Milky Way. Skilfully intertwining the contrasts of his experience, this fragrance blends a surprising pairing of sparkling tuberose and smooth leather, resulting in a fragrance as radiant as the night sky. Tubéreuse Astrale, Maison Crivelli, created by Quentin Bisch

MISCHIEVOUS FLOWERS

When thinking about summer notes, neroli should definitely be on your list this year! The fragrant and bitter orange flower is the foundation of this latest fragrance by Olibanum, harmoniously combining with bergamot, honey, and a touch of jasmine for a comfortably musky yet playful scent. Néroli, Olibanum, created by Céline Perdriel

BEYOND CITRUS

It’s the season for citrus fruits! These lively and bubbly notes perfectly match a warm summer day or make it feel like one on rainier days, with a cloud of fresh notes. Drawing inspiration from the quintessential summer feeling of strolling among sun-kissed citrus groves, Molton Brown’s new Sunlit Clementine & Vetiver Collection captures this magical sensation accurately. The delicious citrus aromas are brought to life through a sparkling clementine accord, juicy mandarin, and invigorating lime, followed by creamy fig leaves and roasted hazelnut, that incorporate the green odours of nature into the fragrance. Complemented by earthy notes of moss and bourbon vetiver, the fragrance has an unexpected smoky and leathery accent, offering a surprising contrast and depth. So, when yearning for a distinctive essence of summer, you’re just a spritz away from a magical olfactive citrus orchard. Sunlit Clementine & Vetiver, Molton Brown, created by Julie Massé

LIQUID SUNSHINE

Symbolising the moment founder Nika discovered her impending motherhood in the heart of Bali, this fragrance lingers as beautifully as the memory it embodies. Combining neroli, bergamot, orange blossom, and rare civet, it radiates a fragrant form of sunshine, spreading happiness wherever you go. Bali 18, Bellekin, created by Nika Avetisyan

PEACH’S REVENGE

THE BRIGHT SIDE

Unleash your bright side, as this harmonious dance between the sun and the moon unfolds on your skin. Charismatic notes of ginger and pink pepper twirl around florals, earthy tones, and warm, musky touches, for an energising and, above all, inspiring boost to your day. A Wondrous Flight, Mes Bisous, created by Özge Erdoğmuş Altınel

As delectable as revenge, this fragrance envelops you, leaving you basking in the luscious and creamy essence of peach and guava. But don’t let the sweetness fool you, as it soon reveals its spicy edge of cardamom and ginger and even a sharp splash of amaretto. Like revenge, this fragrance is best sprayed cold! Peach’s Revenge, Sarah Baker Perfumes, created by Chris Maurice

THIS IS LOVE

A composition as intriguing as the Taj Mahal. Santal Fatal voices a story of true love, starting with a sweet encounter of coconut, blackcurrant, and praline. A delicate embrace of rose and heliotrope then casts its charm, softly soothing you with a blend of sandalwood, vanilla, and amber. If this is not true love, we don’t know what is! Santal Fatal, ILYA Parfums, created by Ilias Kakis

YOUR LUCKY DAY

In the 19th century, Naples emerged as the capital of what we now know as the ‘Lotto Game’. In pursuit of victory, people started translating their dreams into numbers, following the Smorfia, also known as the book of dreams. Their hope was that these numbers would unlock treasures and lead to a stroke of luck from ‘La Dea Bendata’ (Lady Luck). Named after this revered figure, the perfume is crafted to summon good fortune in every imaginable way. From the bitter orange (a renowned symbol of good luck, favourable omens, and fertility) to marzipan (a harbinger of wealth), florals (inspired by bridal bouquets), and ambergris (symbolising rarity), this fragrance serves as your lucky charm, ensuring that Lady Luck might shine upon you as well. La Dea Bendata, Nobile 1942, created by Cristiano Canali

FLY AWAY

Adventure is calling! Helix invites you to go on a voyage to the unknown, blending the gentle sea breeze with sweet summer fruits and Mediterranean flowers, transporting you to a summer paradise. From fresh bergamot to juicy peach, soft cedarwood, and a beachy marine accord, Helix is sure to whisk you away to new destinations. Helix, Carner Barcelona, created by Jordi Fernández

HEAVENLY VANILLA

Like summer serenity in a flacon, this fragrance captures the tranquillity of the sunset and the warm evening breeze. With velvety orris butter, a beautiful bouquet of flowers and spices, and a warm base of vanilla, it embraces you as softly as your silks and linen. For anyone longing for a serene summer evening, a spray of this soothing fragrance is all it takes. Vanille Des Afriques Intensivo, Ormonde Jayne, created by Linda Pilkington

Your next dose of

LE PARFUM

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CHAPTER 4

COLOPHON

PUBLISHER

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WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO Andrea Charles (@curlyscents) and Anthony Tóth (@atothfragrance), The Art & Olfaction Awards, Chris Maurice (C De La Niche), dsmfirmenich, Eight & Bob, Givaudan, Jérôme Viaud (Mayor of Grasse), Jovoy Parfums Rares, Kajal Perfumes Paris, Lengling, Mane, Niche Perfumes, Noème Paris, Olivia Olfactory (@oliviaolfactory), Olivier Quiquempois (curator of the MIP), Parfums de Marly, Perfumist, Robertet Group, Sospiro

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