1 x Le Parfum haute e-magazine (English) - Fall/Winter 2022 Issue 1

L E PA R F U M H A U T E

THE GRAND

M A G A Z I N E

PREMIERE

CONTENTS DOSE OF INSPIRATION 8

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE Match this season’s colour trends

11

MULTI-SENSORY TIPS Through eyes and ears

15

BEST S(M)ELLERS To snuggle up with this winter

22

MUST-VISIT PERFUMERIES IN EUROPE Jaw dropping hotspots

55

BEST S(M)ELLERS To make that summer mood last

63

LAST-MINUTE GETAWAY GOODIES Essentials for your holiday getaway bag

97

GIFT INSPIRATION For a sparkly holiday season

8

18

22 60

BRANDS TO DISCOVER 18

NIC(H)E TO MEET YOU Four eye-catching perfume brands

32

IN THE SPOTLIGHT Astrophil & Stella

52

A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE Jacques Fath

60

64

GOLDEN CLASSICS Timeless fragrance game-changers

NATHALIE FEISTHAUER Self-made master perfumer

68

VICTORIA CHRISTIAN Royal splendour

72

PHILIP BIRKHOLZ Behind the scents

84

MOST REMARKABLE NICHE PERFUME NOVELTIES New masterpieces

84 IN CONVERSATION WITH

48 KNOW-HOW 6

PERFUME TALK Designer vs. niche

12

ESCENTIALS Beginner’s guide to niche perfumes

38

POWER UP YOUR PERFUME Make your fragrance last longer

42

NOSY ‘BOUT NOTES? Two of the sexiest fragrance notes

46

TRENDING TOPIC Sustainable perfume

48

IT'S IN THE FAMILY Balsamic, boozy & gourmand

78

SCENT UP YOUR GAME Multi-sensory branding and design

12 46 76 77

PERFUME LOVERS SPEAKING MORE OF LE PARFUM

16

SCENTED NOTES Written by Sergiu

5

EDITORIAL Embark on our scented journey

41

ANGELINA’S FAVOURITES Angelina Patchouli

90

POST & WIN Giveaway time!

57

COLUMN ABOUT SKIN SCENTS Yana Zhakhouskaya

92

TIME TO GET NOSY Crossword puzzle

71

SCENTED NOTES Written by Chi-ho

98

MEET LE PARFUM It’s all about niche!

76

WILLIE’S FAVOURITES Willie Oken

99

THE ULTIMATE NICHE PERFUME GIFT Le Parfum package deals

77

ON THE GRAM The prettiest niche pic(k)s

NISHANE.OFFICIAL |

WWW.NISHANE.COM

EMBARK ON OUR SCENTED JOURNEY

A

nyone who knows perfume, knows its immense power. A good fragrance hugs you like a brand new dress or a powerful suit. It helps you to express, define, and complement yourself. Not to mention, a single touch of perfume can evoke deep emotions and transport you back in time to a cherished memory or a wonderful feeling. That’s why we consider niche perfumes to be unique. It’s not about what works, but what works for YOU. Think of it as perfume out of the box. There are no restrictions on ingredients, budget, or creativity – the sky is the limit.

After extensive market research, we found that niche perfumes have yet to be discovered by a very large group of perfume lovers. Furthermore, the research showed that there are many views on perfumery and there are also some misconceptions about niche perfumes. We decided to share our deep-rooted passion for fragrances by bringing together the many facets of perfumery on one platform: Le Parfum haute magazine.

Our purpose is to connect, educate, and inspire niche perfume lovers all over the world. It is not only a platform for fragrance veterans – but also for those who have just discovered niche perfumes and got their fragrance interests piqued.

Le Parfum is a collaborative platform for all niche perfume enthusiasts, brands, retailers, influencers, olfactory experts, and anyone who appreciates individualistic, top-quality, and luxurious scents. We are always looking for new collaborations for future print editions and our online platform, so you are hereby invited to share your ideas!

The printed magazine is available in the most gorgeous niche perfumeries across Europe. The magazine is published twice a year, in a spring/summer and autumn/winter edition.

A digital version of Le Parfum is also available with luxurious niche perfume mystery boxes you don’t want to miss out on (check page 99)!

And for those who can’t get enough of this magazine, there is also an online platform brimming with the latest news on niche perfumes, brands to discover, and current trends: www.leparfummagazine.com.

In this very first edition, we take you on a fragrance adventure, visit some of the most beautiful perfumeries in Europe, allow you to explore the basics of perfume, tell the story of selfmade master perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer, and share many more inspiring niche perfume topics. Enjoy this inspirational journey and indulge in all of the magic the world of niche perfumes has to offer!

Love,

Le Parfum Editorial Team

editorialteam@leparfummagazine.com

5

PERFUME TALK DESIGNER VS. NICHE

For decades, big designer fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, and Guerlain have empowered the perfume market with iconic fragrances such as Chanel No. 5 and Miss Dior. Now the tide seems to be turning as niche perfumes are rapidly gaining popularity. But what exactly is the difference between these two types of perfumes? Jim Leweck, lover and collector of perfumes and owner of Introspection haute parfumerie in Luxembourg, shares his take on the differences.

COLUMN BY JIM LEWECK

6

WWW.INTROSPECTION.LU

appeal to a much wider audience – they need to be liked by as n my niche perfumery, I often get questions about what many consumers as possible. You should keep in mind that when I think of designer perfumes and how they are different from a big fashion house brings out a new designer perfume, that it is the niche perfumes that I have in my perfumery’s collection. produced in not just hundreds, but millions of bottles. Designer Niche perfumes are usually made by smaller companies perfumes are less expensive due to this economy of scale. They whose core business is creating perfumes. The ingredients are also have a lower perfume oil concentration of high quality and the fragrances are more in order to maximise profitability. In general exclusive – so less widely available – than this results in a lower longevity, in other words designer perfumes, which makes them more “I ALWAYS the perfume does not last as long because it expensive. The fragrances are created with a evaporates faster. lot of passion. This is reflected in the freedom COMPARE NICHE This raises the question whether niche the perfumers have to set a price range and perfumes are in fact more expensive than choose more valuable ingredients. There’s a PERFUME WITH designer perfumes, or whether that’s just love there of storytelling, and an artistic view a matter of perception. I always compare that extends far beyond the simple process of A LUXURY BAG” niche perfume with a luxury bag: if you buy a making money. In fact, a lot of niche brands Louis Vuitton bag, you pay for the exclusivity claim their main aim is not to get rich but to and the exquisite materials. You know you share their stories through their perfumes. will have a good quality product that is more unique than The freedom in the selection of ingredients and to determine when you buy a more mainstream bag. This doesn’t mean a budget also results in a higher concentration of perfume oil, that designer perfumes aren’t good. People tend to forget that which enhances the longevity and intensity of the scent, which these too, are created by the best master perfumers. Without means you can apply less and still smell delicious for longer. a doubt, designer perfumes can be phenomal as well. It’s just Designer perfumes, on the other hand, are usually created by a matter of taste! bigger companies with roots in fashion and are designed to

INTROSPECTION_PERFUMERY |

I

FOUNDER OF INTROSPECTION HAUTE PARFUMERIE

NICHE PERFUME

DESIGNER PERFUME BIGGER COMPANIES

FAMOUS

BRANDS WIDELY AVAILABLE

MAINSTREAM

POPULARITY BASED

MASS

PRODUCTION

MORE SYNTHETIC

INGREDIENTS SHORTER FRAGRANCE

EXPERIENCE LESS LUXURIOUS PACKAGING

PROMOTION /

DISCOUNT DRIVEN

FOCUS ON MARKETING

LARGE MARKETING BUDGETS LESS VALUE FOR

MONEY

GENDER SPECIFIC PHOTOGRAPHY: EVIE S.

CELEBRITY

ENDORSEMENTS

TREND

SENSITIVE

SMALL

COMPANIES EXCLUSIVE

BRANDS

INDIVIDUALITY UNIQUE SMALLER PRODUCTION RARE

BATCHES

INGREDIENTS

HIGH QUALITY

LONGER FRAGRANCE

EXPERIENCE

LUXURY PACKAGING

ARTISANAL

FOCUS ON CREATING

PERFUME

SMALL MARKETING

BUDGETS

HIGH VALUE

FOR MONEY

STORYTELLING

UNISEX REMARKABLE FRAGRANCE

COMPOSITIONS

UPDATE YOUR PERFUME WARDROBE

MATCH THIS SEASON’S COLOUR TRENDS The cold season has arrived again and that means that your perfume wardrobe is ready for an update! As you know, spicy, woody, and ambery scents warm up your cold days. We made an inspiring niche perfume selection to match your perfume wardrobe – not only with this season but also with the current colour trends.

CALICANTO

ANNICKE 5

BY RUBEUS

BY EIGHT & BOB

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €320

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €180

Defy winter with Calicanto. Think of it as a beautiful

Inspired by the beautiful Burggarten in Vienna, this

scented scarf. A powerful pepper surrounds the rare

fragrance exudes touches of luscious plum, vanilla,

note of mahonia, telling an endless story infused

and caramel – creating an unexpectedly intense

with intoxicating narcissus and dreamy patchouli.

scent that leaves a sensual and mysterious trail.

TABAC EXQUIS

BY CARON

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €220 An irresistible duo of tobacco and chocolate absolute, spiced with a hint of cinnamon and a sensual sprinkle of myrrh. This enveloping fragrance is pure indulgence to enjoy time and time again!

SUNDRUNK

BY IMAGINARY AUTHORS EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €94 Looking to warm up and brighten your winter days?

This fragrance takes you to the beaches of California – you know, that perfect place for first kisses while watching the sunset? The refreshing hint of rhubarb, the splash of rose water, and that sunny touch of neroli make you realise that your adventure has only just begun.

DUBAI AMBER

BY BOND NO. 9 EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €475 As enchanting as the deserts of Dubai due to its spicy top notes of pink pepper and saffron. With a surprising twist of guaiac wood, Bulgarian rose, and sweet vanilla.

THE COVETED DUCHESS ROSE

BY PENHALIGON’S EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €235 This fragrance exudes old-world sophistication: pure as the first raindrops, sweet as a rose, and sparkling like a chilled rosé, with a surprisingly warm woody base.

21 FELANILLA

BY PIERRE GUILLAUME PARIS EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €155

PHOTOGRAPHY: WOLFGANG HASSELMANN, FABIAN STRUWE

This scent mystically combines the fullness of vanilla with a wild seductive base of camphor-like saffron.

Precious amber and woods give this perfume an elegantly smooth winter wonderland touch.

JOUR 5

BY MAJOURI EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €120 The fresh rose petals, earthy woods, and touch of musk in this fragrance infuse your cold winter months with a bit of warmth. The scent’s captivating rose accord perfectly captures the flower’s beauty and its many facets, such as the soft petals and the slight sting of its thorns: warm and comforting in the evening, tingly and uplifting during the day.

THESPIRITOFDUBAI |

WWW.THESPIRITOFDUBAI.COM

MULTI-SENSORY TIPS THE WORLD OF PERFUMERY THROUGH EYES AND EARS

From a murder inspired by an obsession for scent to an olfactory bookstore: there’s a whole world of perfume inspiration to discover without using your nose!

MUST-VISIT There is a new hotspot for fragrance and culture addicts! The Merchant of Venice just opened the olfactory bookshop Studium in Italy. This beautiful bookstore is located between the famous St. Mark’s Basilica and the Bridge of Sighs, which makes it the perfect stop during your sightseeing tour. See you in Venice?

INTERNATIONAL OLFACTORY BOOKSHOP SAN MARCO (VENICE), ITALY

MUST-SEE The compelling psychological thriller ‘Perfume: The Story of a Murderer’ revolves around Jean-Baptiste Grenouille (Ben Whishaw) who possesses a very special gift: an incredible sense of smell. He goes to great lengths to find the perfect scent.

Until one day his obsessive gaze falls on a rather unique scent... that of a beautiful young virgin.

PERFUME: THE STORY OF A MURDERER, DIRECTED BY TOM TYKWER (2006)

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE MERCHANT OF VENICE, PERFUME: THE STORY OF A MURDERER, THE SCENT OF DESIRE, JOYCE KELLY

MUST-READ Interested in the psychology of smell?

Then you shouldn’t miss the must-read: ‘The Scent of Desire’ by Rachel Herz.

Discover why some people like certain scents and others don’t, and how scent influences our choices in everyday life.

This is just the tip of the iceberg of topics and themes covered in this book.

MUST-HEAR

THE SCENT OF DESIRE: DISCOVERING OUR ENIG-

LISTEN TO THE PERFUME PHILOSOPHERS VIA

MATIC SENSE OF SMELL BY RACHEL HERZ (2008)

SPOTIFY OR APPLE MUSIC

Karen and Misty co-present ‘The Perfume Philosophers’ podcast, about all things that smell good.

They’ll keep you updated on everything from the best coffee date fragrance ideas to what is or isn’t a ‘grandma’ perfume.

11

Escentials

A beginner’s guide to the world of niche perfumes.

This edition: perfume concentration.

12

PERFUME CONCENTRATION

Whether you are an experienced perfume connoisseur or a fragrance rookie, Le Parfum haute magazine takes you on a journey through the basics of perfumery. Although there are many views on perfumery, we will highlight the most generally accepted concepts to guide you through the universe of scent.

D

What distinguishes an extrait de parfum from, for example, an eau de toilette, is mainly the degree of dilution of the perfume oil concentrate in the solvent. The highest concentration of perfume oil can be found in an extrait de parfum, with a concentration of up to 40 per cent. A higher concentration of perfume oil gives the perfume more power and makes it linger on the skin for a long time, usually for more than 8 hours (high longevity). Given the high concentration of perfume oil and alcohol, you only have to use a very small amount of extrait de parfum to obtain an optimal perfume experience. An eau fraiche, however, only stays on the skin for one to two hours due to its low percentage of perfume concentration. Generally, this means that you have to apply more perfume to experience the perfume better and for a longer period of time.

o you recall wearing your favourite fragrance, but is it untraceable after a few hours? That has something to do with the perfume concentration. We usually call a fragrance a perfume, but that’s not always the right term. In the world of perfumery, the concentration of the perfume determines whether it is an eau de toilette, eau de parfum, or extrait de parfum. The difference in performance? Its longevity – the time the perfume lingers on your skin.

ELEMENTS OF PERFUME Perfume consists of two elements: the perfume oil and a solvent. A master perfumer (called a ‘nose’) creates a perfume composition by sometimes mixing more than a 100 different scented ingredients. This is called the perfume oil or the perfume concentration. It is an oily and often quite viscous mixture. In order to set the correct strength and ensure it’s safe to apply to the skin, the perfume oil is mixed with a solvent. This solvent is usually alcohol (also known as ethanol or ethyl alcohol; on the packaging it states alcohol denat.), often mixed with a small amount of water (aqua). Upon contact with the skin, the alcohol evaporates quickly and only the fragrant substance remains. The goal is to make the perfume last longer on your skin.

The time a perfume lingers on the skin is called the longevity of a perfume. When a perfume stays on the skin for more than 8 hours, it has a high longevity. When it disappears within 4 hours, the longevity is considered low.

13

PERFUME CONCENTRATION IN NICHE PERFUMES

1-3%

EAU FRAÎCHE LOW LONGEVITY (1-2 H)

14

3-5%

EAU DE COLOGNE MEDIUM/LOW LONGEVITY (2-3 H)

5 - 10 %

EAU DE TOILETTE MEDIUM LONGEVITY (3-5 H)

10 - 20 %

EAU DE PARFUM HIGH LONGEVITY (6+ H)

20 - 40 %

PARFUM OR EXTRAIT DE PARFUM VERY HIGH LONGEVITY (8+ H)

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGE LUTENS, WELTON LONDON

One of the main differences between designer and niche perfumes is the concentration of perfume oil. Most niche perfume brands do not launch perfumes with a concentration below 10 per cent and focus their core business on eau de parfum and extrait de parfum formulas. Due to the higher ratio of the precious perfume oil, niche perfumes often have a stronger scent and a higher longevity. The perfume oil is the most expensive part of the perfume liquid, and since niche perfumes contain more of it, they are therefore more expensive.

It should be noted that solely focusing on perfume concentration does not necessarily say much when assessing the quality of a perfume. There are many other factors that contribute to the quality of a perfume, such as the sillage, projection, structure of the olfactory pyramid, usage of precious (natural) ingredients, quality of the alcohol, perfume journey, complexity of the composition, and so on. Getting dizzy already? Don’t worry – these topics will be covered in the next issues of Le Parfum haute magazine, making you a perfume connoisseur in no time!

BEST S(M)ELLERS

TO SNUGGLE UP WITH THIS WINTER 1. AVENTUS

5. NO. 5

BY CREED

BY ROSENDO MATEU

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €295

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €175

An iconic scent with floral, spicy, citrus, and woody notes, a must in your perfume wardrobe.

Exotic and spicy with vanilla, amber, and musk to bring a little more warmth to your winter season.

1

5

3 4

IMAGE: PIKISUPERSTAR

2

2. B683

3. TEINT DE NEIGE

4. FLAMENCO

BY MARC-ANTOINE BARROIS

BY LORENZO VILLORESI

BY RAMON MONEGAL

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €275

EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €105

EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €190

Sensual and tempting, this is the perfect perfume for lovers of leathery and woody compositions.

This soft, powdery, and floral fragrance is inspired by snowflakes, making it the perfect perfume for cosy winter days.

An amber and floral perfume with sparkling notes of orange blossom, raspberry, and rose.

SCENTED NOTES WRITTEN BY SERGIU

When it comes to perfumes, I often find myself in a situation where my second or third impression can be very different from the first. But not with Farah by Brecourt! It was instant love and three years later, it still is.

SERGIU STANCU FROM ROMANIA

LONGEVITY

4

SILLAGE

3

PRICE-QUALITY RATIO DESIGN WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?

16

5 2 5

“FOR GOURMAND LOVERS, THIS IS BLIND BUY APPROVED”

ANOTHER_FRAGRANCE_GEEK

RATE THE PERFUME:

This ethereal and genderless perfume is suitable for all people and seasons.

Even if you usually don’t enjoy this type of fragrance, I’d still like to recommend that you give it a try. Farah may just turn out to be a surprising exception!

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIU STANCU |

When I first smelled Farah I felt like I had always neglected one of my senses… until that day. Farah contains many essences that are usually combined to create quite heavy scents (cinnamon, dates, honey, and tonka beans). Somehow, though, Farah remains incredibly light and does not flood your nose with oppressive sweetness. All the notes work together in perfect harmony and they all contribute to making this fragrance truly remarkable.

FRAGRANCEDUBOIS |

WWW.FRAGRANCEDUBOIS.COM

Nic(h)e to meet you Introducing some eye-catching niche perfume brands that should be on your wish list.

18

NEW NOTES NEW | CONTEMPORARY | CONSCIOUS

Have you seen the cute square bottles of the niche perfume brand New Notes that launched in 2021? This collection contains a new generation of extraits de parfum that transcend the codes of perfumery and role and gender barriers, with gender-fluid, dynamic, and daring fragrances.

New Notes connects the best raw materials and hi-tech molecules, which results in blends with an innovative touch.

The fragrance notes have a unique elegance and are rich in contrast. Each perfume takes you on a one-of-a-kind sensory journey to explore new olfactory directions, where nature, art, ethics, and aesthetics merge.

NEWNOTESPARFUMS |

WWW.NEWNOTESPARFUM.COM

ÉLISIRE MODERN | SUSTAINABLE | COLOURFUL

A premium collection of highly concentrated perfumes created by Franck Salzwedel, a French artist and fragrance developer who has worked with some of the biggest names in the industry, such as Armani and Viktor & Rolf. The perfumes of Élisire (a fusion of ‘elixir’ and ‘desire’) tell the story of Franck Salzwedel’s love for scents and painting, inspired by his fascination for nature. More specifically, his enthrallment with the miracle of colours and their impact on the senses.

He believes that colour has transcendent effect on one’s body and soul and directly impacts one’s emotions. Salzwedel’s colours can be found in the design of the collection, with each perfume boxed in a reproduction of his colourful field painting. Each flacon has a crystal cap that shines bright like a diamond! The nine Élisire extrait de parfums are crafted with the finest essences extracted from nature, using the most innovative eco-friendly technologies.

ELISIRE_PARFUMS |

WWW.ELISIRE.COM

RECOMMENDATIONS (NEW RELEASE 2022): ÉROSE

CARAMELO VANILLA

BY ÉLISIRE

BY NEW NOTES

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 30 ML | €160

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €160

19

THE HARMONIST SPIRITUAL | REFRESHING | MINIMALISTIC

Merging the art of haute parfumerie with the tradition and philosophy of Feng Shui, Lola Tillyaeva launched The Harmonist in 2016, expressing a desire to inspire balance and harmony through the power of scent. The Harmonist perfumes are inspired by the five elements: wood, fire, earth, water, and metal, and encourage wearers to turn their attention inward, trust their senses, and find harmony within themselves and their surroundings.

ATELIER DES ORS Scents that tell stories on the skin, evoke strong emotions, and lead you on poetic journeys. Atelier Des Ors is an artistic fragrance house inspired by the magnificence of haute parfumerie and the dream of creating sophisticated, alluring, and sensual scents.

The fragrance house infuses each fragrance with its heritage, know-how, and a certain French touch to make a strong scent and design statement that communicates refinement and timeless elegance. Did you know Atelier Des Ors includes a sprinkle of 24k golden stardust in every perfume?

The fragrance house collaborates with scent artists, gold gilders, street artists, photographers, and master craftsmen to bring perfumery as an art to life. The collection comprises imaginative fragrances, each with a story to tell, allowing the luxury to dream.

ATELIERDESORS |

20

WWW.ATELIERDESORS.COM

Respect for the environment is the central tenet of The Harmonist and the perfumes are created from ethically sourced ingredients. Perfumer Guillaume Flavigny interpreted the five elements of Feng Shui and the vibrancy of the yin and the yang energies into scents. Discover the fragrances and find your personal Feng Shui element online, to learn more about yourself and your aspirations.

THEHARMONIST |

WWW.THEHARMONIST.EU

RECOMMENDATIONS: ROSE OMEYYADE

MOON GLORY

BY ATELIER DES ORS

BY THE HARMONIST

EAU DE PARFUM | 100ML | €230

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50ML | €325

VISUALS PROVIDED BY THE BRANDS

ELEGANT | SENSUAL | DREAMY

PARFUMSDUSITA |

WWW.PARFUMSDUSITA.COM

MUST-VISIT PERFUMERIES IN EUROPE

Looking for some jaw dropping perfumeries where you can shop the most extraordinary perfume collections? Down below, we highlighted some amazing perfumeries to add to your must-visit list!

SPITZENHAUS ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

SPITZENHAUS WWW.SPITZENHAUS.COM

22

PHOTOGRAPHY: SPITZENHAUS

Only the most exclusive high-quality, innovative, and sustainable products are offered in Spitzenhaus Parfumerie.

In this perfumery, you can immerse yourself in a truly exclusive selection of rare and authentic brands, designed to satisfy the demands of the most curious and creative.

With their creativity, know-how, and outstanding service, the beauty experts of Spitzenhaus will provide you with a new perspective on fragrances, care products, and decorative cosmetics. If you are looking for exciting trends or insider tips, this is the hotspot to go to.

PLACE VENDÔME WEVELGEM, BELGIUM At Place Vendôme, perfume and luxury are treated as nourishment for the soul.

During your visit to this luxury niche perfumery, an experienced perfume consultant will take you on a perfume journey to discover scents that touch your soul. Everything that emerges during this search is translated into three perfumes. The first perfume represents you when you don’t need to be alert, the second reflects your social interaction with others, and the third represents the best version of yourself. Start a scented journey of a lifetime and discover your perfect perfume match at Place Vendôme.

PLACE_VENDOME_HAUTE_PARFUMERIE

PHOTOGRAPHY: PLACE VENDÔME

WWW.PLACEVENDOME.BE

23

CHERRY GARDEN BUDAPEST, HUNGARY There is a place in the heart of Budapest where evocative scents open up a whole new magical world. Cherry Garden is a niche perfumery where flacons of elegant, handcrafted scents displayed on the shelves also offer a captivating visual experience. Brands from all over the world have found their home in this beautiful perfume paradise. Among them are some real gems, such as the collection Meleg Parfums from Canada, which can only be found and smelled at Cherry Garden in Europe.

It is a place where you can feel at home and where scents can evoke powerful memories. But beware: anyone who enters Cherry Garden will fall in love with the store forever, and will want to return again and again.

WWW.CHERRYGARDEN.HU

24

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHERRY GARDEN

CHERRYGARDENPARFUM

CRIME PASSIONNEL COPENHAGEN, DENMARK Embark on an emotional journey evoked by scents at Crime Passionnel: the first niche perfume boutique in Copenhagen that focuses on rare haute couture aromas. Crime Passionnel invests time in education, presenting different options, leaving the comfort zone, and breaking through prejudices.

In this unique and industrial-style boutique, you will learn about the complex characters of perfumes and how to choose the one that perfectly suits your character.

CRIME.PASSIONNEL

PHOTOGRAPHY: CRIME PASSIONNEL

WWW.CRIME-PASSIONNEL.COM

25

RIVIERA PESARE & RICCIONE, ITALY Riviera is an artistic perfumery where you can have an amazing olfactory experience. This perfumery has refined and elegant boutiques where the most exclusive Italian and international luxury perfumery brands are waiting to be discovered and loved. There are currently two Riviera perfumeries, one in Pesare and one in Riccione, and a brand-new store will open in Cattolica in 2023.

The bespoke, exclusive selection represents exceptional quality, and many fragrance aficionados consider Riviera’s collections to be an example of top picks.

The perfume consultants will guide you on a wonderful and personal olfactory journey with passion and great expertise, exploring a world full of emotions and memories.

RIVIERAPROFUMI

PHOTOGRAPHY: RIVIERA

WWW.RIVIERAPROFUMI.COM

26

THE PERFUMERY BARCELONA BARCELONA, SPAIN

Exquisite perfumes in a specially designed environment offering bespoke service: that’s the philosophy at The Perfumery Barcelona. The beautiful perfumery was born from the desire to offer extraordinary, high-quality fragrances in a contemporary yet warm and welcoming environment. It not only provides a distinctively elegant décor, but also offers a display of fragrances in a completely innovative, aesthetically pleasing, and olfactorily delightful manner. To complete this captivating sensory experience, you can even discover their homemade perfumes and participate in olfactory workshops.

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE PERFUMERY BARCELONA

PERFUMERYBARCELONA WWW.THEPERFUMERYBARCELONA.COM

27

THE HOUSE OF DROPS KAUNAS & VILNIUS, LITHUANIA The two elegant boutiques of the familyowned The House of Drops can be found in the heart of the Lithuanian cities of Kaunas and Vilnius. Be captivated by the world of carefully selected niche perfumes where personal attention and excellent service are the most important ingredients to give every visitor an unforgettable experience. After countless journeys, smelling thousands of fragrances, and visiting hundreds of different niche perfume houses, The House of Drops now proudly presents creations from extraordinary creators with amazing stories behind them.

Welcome to the exceptional world of The House of Drops.

THE_HOUSE_OF_DROPS

PHOTOGRAPHY: THE HOUSE OF DROPS

WWW.DROPSLIETUVA.COM

28

DRAGONFLY OLFACTORY STUDIO KRAKOW, POLAND

PHOTOGRAPHY: DRAGONFLY OLFACTORY STUDIO

Dragonfly Olfactory Studio was born out of the desire to capture unique moments and beautiful, fleeting memories. This niche perfumery with its gorgeous selection of fragrances offers a visual brand experience and provides insight into the history of each magnificent perfume composition.

Dragonfly’s perfumes contain only the highest quality ingredients, which makes discovering your special fragrance an experience of pure indulgence.

Allow Dragonfly to share with you its treasured scents and allow yourself to be captivated by its mysterious world of fragrances.

DRAGONFLY_CRACOW WWW.DRAGONFLY-STORE.PL

29

PARFUMSALON BERLIN BERLIN, GERMANY If you are in Germany, make sure to visit the beautiful Parfumsalon Berlin. The scents you will encounter there are true perfume art − a delightful reflection of their passion for fragrances. The knowledgeable staff will help you unravel the secret of your perfect fragrance by gently exploring the many facets of your personality. The unique ‘perfume themes’ they work with are selected and designed by Berlin artists to guide you through the world of niche perfumes. Parfumsalon Berlin’s original and creative homemade perfume presentations enchant niche perfume lovers every day!

PARFUMSALON_BERLIN

PHOTOGRAPHY: PARFUMSALON BERLIN

WWW.PARFUMSALON.DE

30

Visual FRASSAI |

WWW.FRASSAI.COM

In the spotlight Each niche perfume brand has its own heritage, brand DNA, and storytelling. In this edition we are shining our spotlight on the brand Astrophil & Stella. Are you ready to dive into a cosmic love story?

32

Like a ray of light in the darkness, Astrophil & Stella ignited during the global pandemic. Powered by master perfumers and true Italian craftsmanship, Astrophil & Stella was established to spread love and light during dark times with scents that are (quite literally) out-of-this-universe.

INTERVIEW WITH ALESSANDRO CASTAGNO BRAND MANAGER AT ASTROPHIL & STELLA

H

ow did the brand Astrophil & Stella originate?

The pandemic had just started and, as many know, Italy was heavily affected by it. We were in lockdown, people were scared, and there was a lot of pressure. We decided to create a new brand that represents lightness and love. We wanted Astrophil & Stella to enable people, even in the toughest times, to get in touch with others and the universe surrounding them. It highlights love in all ways: not only among people but also the stars and the galaxy.

The story behind Astrophil & Stella is beautiful and mythical.

Where did you get the inspiration from?

We found a hidden gem! We have a passion for reading, and we found a poem from the 16th century, written by the English poet Philip Sidney. It is called Astrophil & Stella, and literally means ‘star lover’ (Astrophil) and his ‘star’ (Stella).

This resonated seamlessly with our love for people and the universe, so it was an immediate match. The name itself also suggests that they are two actual people who appear to be the creators of the brand, even though they are totally imaginary.

Did this poem also inspire the fragrances?

Mostly, yes. Each of the first six perfumes was created to express a moment in the love story of the poem’s two characters: the mortal Astrophil & the goddess Stella. From the beginning, up to the encounter and the meeting – as a plot.

The cosmic love story starts with the scene represented by the first fragrance: Into the Oud. As Astrophil walks into a forest, he hears the whisper of Stella’s voice, sent to him through the raindrops that landed on Astrophil’s shoulder. To make sure he wouldn’t forget the words she spoke to him, he etched them into the wet bark of a beautiful nearby tree. Because of its double meaning, the name ‘Into the Oud’ was chosen.

Once we started adding scents, we decided to let go of the initial plot of the poem, because that love story had already been told through perfumes. Instead, the four fragrances launched after those six are about a scenario that we are trying to bring to life through the fragrances.

33

What was the inspiration behind the latest four fragrances?

For those fragrances, we went in a different direction. We decided to base our inspiration on scenarios that were either imaginary or from our memories (or those of the perfumers).

For example, with ‘The Iris Way’ we wanted to replicate or imagine the smell of the universe, the galaxy, the milky way.

That’s why Luca Maffei created this very subtle and slightly milky scent with iris. With ‘A Night at the Opera’ we envisioned an elegant perfume to dress you up when visiting an old school theatre or cinema. Our inspiration was the smell of the chairs, leather, and tobacco.

Our last two releases, Nabati and Paris Chéri, are based on completely different scenarios: a romantic breakfast in Paris and a mysterious encounter in the desert. So they are not about the love story of Astrophil & Stella itself, but about a poetic love scenario.

There are some astonishing master perfumers who have created the magical perfumes. How did Astrophil & Stella manage to get to work with them?

For the launch, we teamed up with four master perfumers to bring the story to life: Bertrand Duchaufour, Chris Maurice, Luca Maffei, and Cécile Zarokian. Now with our last two fragrances,

34

two other notable master perfumers joined us: Christian Provenzano and Nathalie Feisthauer. They all come from different backgrounds and have created some masterpieces for big houses like Nishane and Amouage. When they heard about our concept, the history, and the atmosphere we were trying to bring to the collection, they fell in love with it right away!

How does the brand usually brief its perfumers about new fragrances?

We’ve tried to give them complete freedom to use their own inspiration and imagination. All we had in mind were the scenarios. Plus, the only requirement we shared with them was wearability. Because even though we work in the niche industry, niche doesn’t mean crazy or weird to me. In my opinion, niche isn’t just about the fragrance, it’s also about the

story and the inspiration. When we create something, I would like for all people to be able to wear it. That’s why we’ve crafted our fragrances to be unisex and accessible, both in terms of scent and price.

One of the core values of Astrophil & Stella is Italian craftsmanship. Why was that important to you?

Italy has been known for its high-quality products for decades.

It was important to us to ensure that people today can still enjoy the luxury goods made in Italy. Because our brand has Italian roots, we have chosen to source all raw materials from Italy. The bottles are made in Venice, known worldwide for its high-quality glass production thanks to specialised craftsmen.

Our boxes are made in Turin, at a small company where people still pack them by hand and quality control the paper; from

35

colour to texture. This type of genuine handmade production is exactly why Italian craftsmanship is so highly valued and why we believe it should be preserved. Finally, even the caps of our bottles are produced near Milan. They are made with a material called Zamak, which consists of a precious combination of zinc, aluminium, magnesium, and copper. Only the perfume oil is not always made in Italy, depending on the residence of the master perfumer.

TWO OF OUR FAVOURITE FRAGRANCES FROM ASTROPHIL & STELLA

NABATI “IN THE DARKNESS, AMONG THE UNDULATING DUNES, ILLUMINATED BY THE CARPET OF STARS THAT ADORNED THE SKY WITH A MILKY LIGHT, A FIRE CRACKLED, CUTTING THE SILENCE OF THE DESERT. THE FLAME DANCED SINUOUSLY, INVITING THE CELESTIAL BODIES TO DESCEND AND JOIN IN ITS SHIMMERING DANCE. THE FALLEN COMET THUS CALLED TO THE OTHER STARS THAT WERE DAZZLING SPINNING IN A SUBLIME LUMINOUS CASCADE, LIGHTING UP THE NIGHT.” - ASTROPHIL & STELLA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €160

36

WHILE A PUFF PASTRY HALF-MOON GENTLY RESTED BEHIND THE HILL OF MONTMARTRE AND THE MAGIC OF DAWN PEEKED THROUGH THE DREAMY ROOFTOPS OF PARIS. THE VIENNOISERIES WERE ALREADY SPREADING THEIR DAINTY AND DELICIOUS AROMA ALONG THE SLEEPING BOULEVARDS, ENCIRCLING THE ENTIRE CITY IN A LIVELY AND FRAGRANT MORNING EMBRACE.” - ASTROPHIL & STELLA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €160

WWW.ASTROPHILSTELLA.COM

“THE LAST STARS WERE SHINING ON THE WHITENESS OF THE SACRÉ-COEUR,

ASTROPHILSTELLAPERFUME |

PARIS CHÉRI

POWER UP YOUR PERFUME

HOW TO MAKE YOUR FRAGRANCE LAST LONGER Disappointed about your scent not lasting as long as you’d hoped? Increase the longevity of your perfume with 5 easy steps and treat yourself to a beautiful, long-lasting halo of your favourite scent.

1 SHOWER FIRST Take a warm shower or a bath before spritzing perfume. The steam opens up your pores, which makes your skin hold onto the fragrance longer. The trick is to apply the perfume on towel-dried skin, as a wet surface causes scents to disappear quicker.

2

Did you know that rubbing your wrists together

?

negatively affects the performance of your perfume? The motion actually makes the top notes disappear faster. Try tapping your wrists together instead, or dab your wrist on another pulse point to spread the remaining fragrance.

38

PHOTOGRAPHY: ISHAN |

Keep your skin hydrated with body oil, lotion, or balm before applying any fragrance.

Perfume lasts longer on hydrated skin as it tends to ‘stick’ to it. You can use both unscented and perfumed products if you want to mix and match scents for a unique twist.

SEEFROMTHESKY

HYDRATE YOUR SKIN

3

NEW IN: ROSE DUNES

BY MOLTON BROWN EAU DE PARFUM | 100ML | €130 BODY LOTION | 300ML | €33

USE A HIGH CONCENTRATION Choose a perfume with an oil concentration of 20-40 per cent, such as an eau de parfum or an extrait de parfum. As explained in Escentials (page 12), these types of perfume have a higher longevity and generally last all day long.

GUERLAIN |

WWW.GUERLAIN.COM

MOLTONBROWN |

WWW.MOLTONBROWN.COM

4 APPLY ON PULSE POINTS Pulse points are places where your veins are closer to the skin’s surface, where your body temperature helps develop and diffuse the scent. For example, think of pulse points such as your neck, your wrists, behind your ears, the inside of your elbows, and your décolleté.

5

SPRAY ON CLOTHING Fabrics tend to hold perfume longer than the skin because sweat and natural oils wear off the scent. That’s why applying a fragrance to your clothes is a good way to amplify and elongate the scent. However, be careful with applying perfume on light colours, as the liquid can stain. While applying a fragrance to your hair can also help the scent to linger longer, try not to do this too often, as the alcohol in fragrances could damage your hair.

?

Did you know that your heart is also a pulse point? Applying the fragrance there allows you to radiate the scent, with the heart acting as a diffuser – what’s more poetic than that?

39

MEMO.PARIS |

WWW.MEMOPARIS.COM

ANGELINA’S FAVOURITES ANGELINA PATCHOULI ANGUHANDSCHUH Angelina is a German perfume enthusiast whose world is all about amazing scents that make everyday an exciting olfactory journey. Angelina is also an Instagram influencer and the host of a YouTube channel called ‘Angelina Patchouli’, because of her love for this fragrance note. “My love for patchouli scents began when I tried Angel by Thierry Mugler for the very first time, when I was fifteen years old.

I immediately fell in love with patchouli perfumes!”

FAVOURITE ITEM Besides my addiction to amazing scents (I never leave my house without using perfume), I have to admit that I’m absolutely addicted to designer handbags. They make my heart beat faster. “No handbag, no competition”, right? My current favourite handbag is the iconic Lady Dior.

DAY-TO-DAY FRAGRANCE To be honest, there isn’t really a fragrance that I wear every single day or more than once a week... The reason is very simple: I love to wear different styles. A perfume or scent is something that completes my outfit in the same way shoes or handbags do. So wearing the same scent very often is quite boring to me.

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANGELINA PATCHOULI, EARTH

FAVOURITE COCKTAIL I love a good gin-tonic with cucumber and pepper!

HOLIDAY DESTINATION

Paris during summer time is just magical to me. The summer feeling you get in Paris, when the days are long and the weather is warm… it is just one-of-a-kind.

41

Nosy ‘bout notes?

Fragrance notes can impact your emotions: while some can evoke feelings of warmth and relaxation, others can make you feel happy and empowered. Discover different fragrance notes and how they boost your mood so you can mix and match your perfume with your state of mind!

42

MOOD BOOSTERS TWO OF THE SEXIEST FRAGRANCE NOTES

It’s no secret that a good perfume can make you feel like you’re on top of the world. And it’s not just the happiness of making the purchase or having that beautiful flacon in your collection – it’s all science.

T

he ‘wow factor’ comes down to the fact that smell is processed in the same part of the brain as our emotions, memories, and motivations, according to neuroscientist and ‘The Scent of Desire’ author Rachel Herz. Scents can change your emotions and give you that extra boost to amplify your mood – or maybe someone else’s too… In this edition, we are zooming in on two ingredients that can help boost your sex appeal: oud and tuberose.

2 OUD SMASHERS OUD MONARCH

BY BORTNIKOFF EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €310

BLACK AFGANO

BY NASOMATTO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 30 ML | €124

OUD This fragrance note is also known as agarwood and is the olfactory note for seduction. Its rich and woody touch, ranging from earthy to sweet, evokes a strong and intense scent with a dark, sensual touch. A fragrance with oud has a mysterious vibe and immediately seduces anyone with its charm.

Oud has been used for centuries, both as a medicine and for spiritual purposes.

In the Muslim culture, oud is considered a fundamental fragrance note: it was loved by prophet Muhammad and was often used in daily rituals, as a remedy for diseases. It is made from the rare and valuable resin that is produced when the genus Aquilaria tree is infected by a certain type of fungus. Oud carries the nickname ‘liquid gold’ for that very reason: it is more expensive than gold, because only one in a hundred trees contains this special oud resin. So when wearing a fragrance with oud, you’re literally a one-in-a-hundred.

?

Did you know that oud costs about $100,000 per kilo? This makes it almost twice as expensive as gold.

43

TUBEROSE

2 TUBEROSE STUNNERS SIBERIAN ROSE

BY FRAGRANCE DU BOIS EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €275

RADIKAL TUBEROSE

BY LAURENT MAZZONE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €220

?

44

Did you know that for only 100 grams of tuberose absolute, you need over 600 kilograms of flower buds?

PHOTOGRAPHY: PISSAM BURRISS, JOE DESOUSA

Tuberose appears to be an innocent flower, but has a devastatingly powerful fragrance note, that ignites passion and curiosity with the highest intensity. It is without a doubt a symbol of dangerous pleasure and passion. Sounds like the perfect fragrance note for the charmers among us, don’t you think?

The scientific name of tuberose is Polianthes Tuberosa. Tuberose is part of the agave family and originates from Mexico, where they allegedly used its essential oil in chocolate to enhance the flavour. Nowadays, tuberose flowers are mostly grown in India where they are often woven into gorgeous, scented garlands for special occasions such as weddings.

Unlike coloured flowers that attract bees with their bright appearance, the white tuberose flower uses its strong, creamy, and honey-like scent to lure bees in. The beautiful, white flowers are known as ‘mistress of the night’ as they only bloom at night. For this reason, they are always picked in the morning, before sunrise.

In the Victorian era, the flowers were found so seductive that women were warned to keep their distance to keep the scent from sparking dangerous desires.

PHILLYANDPHILL |

WWW.PHILLYANDPHILL.COM

TRENDING TOPIC HOW TO FIND YOUR NEXT SUSTAINABLE PERFUME

T

here are a few simple factors to keep in mind when considering a purchase, in order to buy as eco-friendly as possible. In this article, we’ll familiarise you with some green terms to help you in your eco-friendly quest.

INGREDIENTS Look for ingredients that have been sourced responsibly. This doesn’t mean you should look for natural ingredients only: sometimes synthetic ingredients are more environmentally friendly than those derived from, for instance, endangered plants and animals. An example is musk: in the past, this ingredient was harvested from animals like musk deer. To avoid harming animals, natural musk is now banned in the perfume industry and is currently only used in synthetic form.

46

VEGAN OR CRUELTY-FREE Be sure to check how the perfume has been tested to ensure it’s vegan or cruelty-free. The amount of vegan and cruelty-free perfumes is increasing every day, but unfortunately most major perfume brands still test ingredients on animals.

ETHICAL SOURCING AND FRAGRANCE COMPOSITION It’s definitely worth finding out where exactly the ingredients come from. When key ingredients are grown locally or nearby, the fewer flight miles help minimise the carbon footprint.

A more minimally composed fragrance can also be part of sustainability: because fewer resources are used, it provides two benefits. Firstly, fewer ingredients have to be shipped, so less damage is caused by transport. Secondly, the use of the ingredients is maximised to reduce waste of raw materials. This mindful way of thinking about ingredients is crucial when looking for sustainable fragrances!

?

Did you know that glass perfume bottles are recyclable?

You just need to remove the metal caps and pump, before you can take it to your local recycling points.

PHOTOGRAPHY: YOANN LEVEQUE, FLAVIA SISTIAGA

From recyclable packaging to upcycling leftover ingredients: the sustainable movement is well underway in the perfume industry.

Unfortunately, as the term is still evolving, there’s no fool-proof way to determine whether a fragrance is 100 per cent sustainable – yet.

However, there are some steps you can take to replenish your perfume wardrobe a bit more consciously and sustainably.

PACKAGING The beauty industry is unfortunately a major contributor to waste. According to Zero Waste Week, approximately 120 billion units of packaging are produced annually, most of which is not recyclable.

To be truly environmentally conscious when buying perfume, it is important to check that all materials used are recyclable and as environmentally friendly as possible, for example reusable or biodegradable.

TRANSPARENCY Perfume formulas have been considered a trade secret throughout history, preventing brands from disclosing which ingredients they use.

However, it is now more important than ever to be transparent, as today’s perfume lovers long for more clarity from perfume brands about their fragrances. It is one of the main drivers behind the sustainability movement and the key to enabling a well-informed and eco-friendly choice.

2 SUSTAINABLE BRANDS YOU HAVE TO CHECK OUT PHOTOGRAPHY: PISSAM BURRISS, JOE DESOUSA

BASTILLE A pioneer in transparency, with vegan and cruelty-free perfumes with a 95 per cent natural fragrance formula.

BEL REBEL Cruelty-free

and

mostly

vegan,

produced in small batches with packaging that’s fully compostable.

47

It᾽s in the family The perfume universe is divided into ‘fragrance families’, a classification system to place perfumes into olfactory groups.

Explore the extraordinary world of balsamic, boozy, and gourmand fragrances: cosy and warm inspiration for the chilly days ahead.

48

1. GERANIUM BALSAMIC NOTE

BY BOHOBOCO

1

2

EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €134 A surprising and mysterious composition of delicate balsamic notes, surrounded by essential oils, hidden in the rough scent of geraniums.

2. SACRED SCARAB

BY ZOOLOGIST EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 60 ML | €210

4

3

Captures the mystique of Kyphi incense, with a blend of blue lotus, raisins, plum, olibanum, myrrh, and juniper.

3. PROSPEROUS

BY BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €343 Affluent and confident, like a true conqueror.

Topped with cinnamon and clove, the inclusion of

5

elemi brings spirituality and soulfulness.

4. PURPLE MANTRA

BY ROOM 1015 EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €130 An explosion of incense with the soothing and calming scent of lavender and a touch of myrrh and resins to calm your mind.

BALSAMIC INSPIRATION

5. B-612

SWEET | SENSUAL | MYSTERIOUS

BY NISHANE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €205

Let yourself be embraced by the soothing and warm notes of balsamic perfumes.

The tears of benzoin reveal a sweet, milky, and spicy scent. Balsamic fragrances have a mysterious vibe with rich notes of balms, styrax, frankincense, and sensual myrrh.

Revive your inner child with delightful notes of lavender, cedarwood, and tonka bean.

49

1. EAU DE HONGRIE

BY VIKTORIA MINYA EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €129

1

2

Inspired by the Hungarian dessert wines, this enchanting scent is topped with soft sandalwood.

The bottle comes in a beautifully, handcrafted wooden box – a perfect gift for the holidays!

2. BELLO RABELO

BY LIQUIDES IMAGINAIRES EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €200

3

A deep, boozy port accord with sweet notes of dried fruit. A touch of amber and wood create a warm base that hugs you gently.

4

3. SIREN & SAILORS

BY JUSBOX EAU DE PARFUM | 78 ML | €160 The warm and sensual tones go straight to the heart. An enchanting composition of rose essential,

5

whiskey accord, and vanilla brings out your true self.

4. TRANCE

BY J.F. SCHWARZLOSE EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €129 A hypnotic scent that stimulates your senses. This forbidden potion with absinthe and seductive Turkish rose will linger on and on.

5. FRUSTRATION ETAT LIBRE D’ORANGE EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €210 A really boozy scent you can’t get enough of, with rum in the top and a yummy base of bourbon.

Delicious for the holiday season!

50

BOOZY INSPIRATION STRONG | LUXURIOUS | WARM

In the mood for a sweet cocktail or a strong whiskey? The warmth and sensuality of rum, wine, and whiskey work perfectly in perfumes. Leaving an intoxicating sillage to rub off the holiday spirit on your nearest and dearest. Let’s get boozy!

1. SORRISO

BY PROFUMUM ROMA EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €250

1

2

A refined and seductive combination of bitter chocolate and orange. Rich and dark with a hint of sweetness.

2. DOLCE PASSIONE

BY PANTHEON ROMA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €138 This fragrance’s dark chocolate with its a precious

4

3

hint of white truffle will make you long for sweets – and its notes of hazelnut and honey will tempt you even more.

3. LIRA

BY CASAMORATI EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €270 A beautiful vintage fragrance that seduces you with notes of vanilla, musk, and caramel. A fresh note of bergamot and blood orange leads you to its classic heart of rose, jasmine, and licorice blossom.

5

4. JARDIN DE MACARONS

BY LES SOEURS DE NOÉ EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €190 Immerse yourself in the sweet and floral scent that represents the gardens of Versailles, where violet and iris enhance the fruity notes of cassis and plum.

5. DARLING

BY DE GABOR

GOURMAND INSPIRATION EDIBLE | SEDUCTIVE | SWEET

Delicious vanilla ice cream or soft caramel that slowly melts in your mouth... Be seduced by the delicious notes of gourmand scents. Discover the tastiest gourmands with notes of honey, coffee, chocolate, and much more. Bon appétit!

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €280 Celebrate your gourmand addiction with this delightful kiss of sweet heart notes, infused with milky sandalwood, Austrian marzipan, tonka bean, praline, and rum. A darling fragrance that will make you fall in love over and over again.

51

A trip down memory lane The revival of a perfume brand of one of the greatest fashion designers in history.

52

DESIGNS

Jacques Fath was one of the most influential designers of post-war haute couture. Not only was he known for his gorgeous designs – his perfumes also left a legacy.

F

rench designer Jacques Fath was born in MaisonsLaffite in France, on September 6, 1912, into a bourgeois and artistic family. As a child, Jacques liked to draw, paint, dress up, and entertain people with plays. After working as a merchant for a short time, he finally turned to what he really loved. He began pursuing his passion for fashion design and opened the Fashion House in Paris in 1937.

FASHION HOUSE The Fashion House was a living temple of creation, orchestrated

by Jacques Fath. He was known to be humorous, never seemed to be in a bad mood, and was always very polite to his team. In the Fashion House, Jacques Fath was accompanied by his assistants Hubert de Givenchy, Guy Laroche, and Valentino Garavani: names that have come to represent some of the world’s most renowned fashion houses today.

With his wife and muse Geneviève Boucher de la Bruyère as a representative, his beautiful designs started to take flight.

When she was spotted at ‘Grande Nuit de Longchamp’ in 1939, wearing a dress with a tight-fitting bodice and a sumptuous full skirt tied in an asymmetrical drape, all eyes were on her and the gorgeous dress. Ever since that moment, pictures of the Fath couple were seen in every magazine and the living legend began to take shape at a breathtaking pace.

From the very beginning, Jacques Fath’s fashion attracted well-known and wealthy clients, like aristocrats and Hollywood stars, such as Greta Garbo, Ava Gardner, and Rita Hayworth.

Known for dressing ‘the chic young Parisienne’, Fath designed some of the sexiest and most glamorous dresses of Paris. He created the myth of hyper-femininity, perfecting the silhouette. While Dior and Balenciaga were known for the architectural beauty of their designs, Fath’s style was praised for its glamour and vivacity.

Jacques Fath had a brilliant eye for choosing models: once dressed by him, they’d all become the most sought-after mannequins in Paris. His favourite was Simone Micheline Bodin, also known as Bettina. When returning from a trip to America, Fath said: “My Bettina, you are going to cut your hair like a boy. You will be divine”. To go with her new haircut he designed a striped shirt with a white collar and cuffs – and the Bettina style was born.

MYTHICAL FRAGRANCES After the success of Jacques Fath’s fashion, the designer launched the company ‘Les Parfums Jacques Fath’ in 1949.

By that time, Fath had already launched three fragrances, the first of which was Chasuble in 1945: a perfume for women, comprising a bouquet of floral, woody, and powdery notes. Two other famous fragrances by Les Parfum Jacques Fath were Green Water (1946) and Iris Gris (1947), created in collaboration with the perfumer Vincent Roubert.

THE ICONIC RED DRESS Dressed in Jacques Fath’s ‘Red Shoes’, Bettina conquered her spot in the fashion world as the first French supermodel.

The legendary, silky dress as seen in the photo shot by Irving Penn, is one of the most well-known masterpieces that Jacques Fath created, and the muse for the modern Red Shoes fragrance.

53

THE END OF AN ERA? When Jacques Fath died of leukemia on November 13, 1954, Geneviève and their son Philippe intended to continue his fashion and perfume houses. But unfortunately, Jacques Fath’s fashion did not survive the loss of its creator. However, for his perfumes, the story wasn’t over yet. The perfume brand was relaunched years later as the ‘Jacques Fath Parfums’ we know today.

Jacques Fath’s Iris Gris is composed of a balanced duo of iris and peach, which reflects perfumer Vincent Roubert’s exceptional know-how. Launched in 1947, it disappeared the same year as Fath’s passing in 1954. Often copied, yet certainly never equalled, it remains unique and timeless.

It was unthinkable for the mythical Iris Gris, a heritage, to remain locked away in the past. And under the supervision of

RED SHOES Red Shoes is the name of a 1948 ballet movie for which Jacques Fath designed the fabulous costumes. Later, in 1950, Fath created a sumptuous red silky dress with the same name, worn by his favourite model Bettina. The fragrance by Cécile Zarokian illustrates this elegant, feminine, and sensual dress. The blue ginger and pink pepper notes evoke the cold and metallic colours of the silky and satiny dress, and the flamboyant rose and masterful patchouli scents spread a very strong sillage.

GREEN WATER A rehabilitation of the mythical Green Water: the first citrus aromatic fragrance created in 1946 by perfumer Vincent Roubert.

This timeless, elegant fragrance is a refreshing combination led by clean and fresh neroli notes and a variety of different of mints.

FUTURE The launch of a new perfume ‘Vetiver Gris’ is coming up this Fall, created in collaboration with Jean-Christophe Hérault, IFF (International Flavours & Fragrances) master perfumer. And so the saga continues!

54

JACQUESFATHPARFUMS |

L’IRIS DE FATH

Creative Director Rania Naim, Jacques Fath Parfums launched an international competition among perfumers, in order to reproduce this exceptional fragrance as faithfully as possible.

And so the masterpiece that was thought to be lost was reborn, thanks to two young talents unanimously chosen by a committee of experts: Patrice Revillard, perfumer, and Yohan Cervi, Creative Director of Maelström. Like a chrysalis turning into a butterfly, the iconic perfume is now known as: L’Iris de Fath.

PHOTOGRAPHY: IRVING PENN FOR VOGUE |

The spirit of the original perfumes is captured in fragrances with a modern twist, preserving the quintessence of Jacques Fath: youth, talent, and ‘joie de vivre’. For this, the Creative Director Rania Barakat Naim chose to collaborate with master perfumers Cécile Zarokian and Luca Maffei to compose Fath’s Essentials Collection.

WWW.JACQUES-FATH-PARFUMS.COM

REBORN

BEST S(M)ELLERS

TO MAKE THAT SUMMER MOOD LAST 4. JUBILATION XXV

BY AMOUAGE EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €325 A rich and warm perfume that embodies philosophy and sophistication.

5. GYPSY WATER

3

BY BYREDO EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €195 An ode to the Roma culture and gypsy nights in the forest, with fresh and woody notes.

4 5 1

IMAGE: VANITJAN

2

1. KIRKÈ

2. REHAB

3. ERBA PURA

BY TIZIANA TERENZI

BY INITIO PARFUMS PRIVÉS

BY XERJOFF

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €190

EAU DE PARFUM | 90 ML | €235

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €220

Immerse yourself in the sweet melody of the Greek

A raw and spicy perfume, with a harmonious scent

A fragrance with a fresh and dreamy blend of

Goddess Circe with this sensual and fruity fragrance.

composition of lavender and sandalwood.

Sicilian citruses and Calabrian bergamot.

56 PHOTOGRAPHY: ILUIZ ROGERIO NUNES

PERFUME AS YOUR SECOND SKIN It is no secret that skin scents are hot again. But why are they so popular? And how is the new generation of skin scents different from the quiet, inoffensive, and easy to wear fragrances from the past decades? Let’s take a look at the style’s evolution.

F

COLUMN BY YANA ZHAKHOUSKAYA

or a long time, the term ‘skin scents’ was a definition for a barely-there olfactory experience that suggested a general feeling of polite groomed cleanliness, the scent signal of being tidy. These comfortable close-to-skin perfumes have been around since the discovery of the synthetic musky molecules several decades ago. The gentle new materials created a pleasant scent aura without being ‘too much’. Smelling highly abstract, somewhere between fresh, woody, floral, and musky, they allowed for a multitude of interpretations and enabled everybody to make their own memory connections.

COSMETIQUA

NEW GENERATION OF SKIN SCENTS Young perfume lovers use fragrances to express their emotions, not to seamlessly blend in. And so skin scents have evolved as well. They have become more distinct, sensual, and a little less abstract. The gourmand notes, gentle flowers, or fruity accords in the new skin scents are more recognisable than in their predecessors. One common characteristic of these modern fragrances is the hugging, almost tactile feel.

Today’s skin scents are both diverse and friendly. They can fit every mood, while offering the comfort of a warm hug: perfect for a cosy holiday season.

ABOUT YANA ZHAKHOUSKAYA As a long-time perfume lover and influential fragrance blogger, Yana has made her passion into a business. Her niche fragrance discovery service Perfumestry.com offers everybody the opportunity to discover the best new niche perfume gems.

57

5 SKIN SCENTS TO DISCOVER 1. PARISIAN MUSC

3. IRIS PORCELANA

5. MOLECULE 01

BY MATIERE PREMIERE

BY EX NIHILO

BY ESCENTRIC MOLECULES

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €195

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €260

EAU DE TOILETTE | 100 ML | €120

A Parisian morning between the crisp white sheets

A very tactile fragrance. Not that much iris, but

Literally a skin scent that’s built around the skin scent

of a luxury hotel, creamy fig dessert, and sunny sky.

definitely a lot of porcelain, the fine white unglazed

molecule Iso E Super. It comes to life differently on

Closest to the fresh features of the classic skin scents,

type with a velvety grainy surface under your

everybody’s skin, characterised by cedar wood with

but much more sensual and milky.

fingertips. A gentle and soft olfactory aura.

a velvety sensation.

5

1

3

4

2

2. MUSK COMPLEXITY

4. BY ROSIE

BY NEW NOTES

BY ROSIE JANE

EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €170

EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €71,50

A fragrance with a mix of new musky molecules,

All about the natural skin and its softness. With notes

spices, woods, fruit, and flowers, capturing the

of nude musk, rose, and vanilla, Rosie is a perfume

freedom to choose one’s identity.

designed to be pure and sweet.

LESBAINSGUERBOIS |

WWW.LESBAINSGUERBOIS.COM

NATHALIE FEISTHAUER SELF-MADE MASTER PERFUMER

With more than 130 fragrances to her name, award-winning master perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer has walked an incredible path and conquered her rightful spot in the perfume industry. We chatted with Nathalie about her remarkable past, independent business, family, and niche perfume tips.

INTERVIEW WITH NATHALIE FEISTHAUER PERFUMER AND FOUNDER OF LAB SCENT

I

CAREER

s it true that your love for Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium is what inspired you to start your journey?

Totally! You know, I was sixteen at the time and I was not prepared to have such a revelation when I smelled Opium. It truly was a life-changing moment for me. That was about 40 years ago, and I’ve been obsessed with perfume ever since.

Although I had no clue who created the perfume, all I wanted after smelling Opium, was to be the assistant of this master perfumer. Full of excitement, I started writing letters to famous perfume houses, saying that I wanted to be Yves Saint Laurent’s assistant. To my surprise, I received the response that they didn’t create the perfume themselves, but a perfume company did.

I immediately contacted them, which led to a call that I never expected to get.

60

Someone of the perfume company contacted me and told me he loved my letter because it was fresh and different. That person turned out to be the actual perfumer of Opium, and he invited me to Paris to meet him! It was a surreal conversation, that eventually led me to enrol at the most prestigious perfumery school in the world: Givaudan in Grasse. I think I was the first person without a family history in perfumery to be accepted there.

Between 1990 and 2014 you worked for the two major perfume companies Givaudan and Symrise. Then in 2015, you decided to become independent and founded your own fragrance creation lab: LAB Scent. Why did you take that step and what has changed for you since then?

I just missed the creativity, the value, and sincerity in my work, which was exhausting for me. Developing a perfume

that contains just a little more gourmand than its successful predecessor for years and years is not why I became a perfumer.

Suddenly, one day, I woke up and I just couldn’t do it anymore.

That’s when I decided I wanted to become independent.

Starting my own business was scary and exciting at the same time. But I have never regretted it, because it gave me more room to make my own choices, creatively, without the main driver of commercial success. What I love most is the fact that I interact with art directors and get to work with different people who all have different visions.

PRIVATE LIFE You are not only a remarkable perfumer, but also a mother of two children. Do they love perfume as well?

My children don’t really care about perfume, and that’s fine with me! As a mother, I don’t care what they do – I just care if they like what they do and if they are healthy and happy. My son is actually into math and my daughter is going to study psychology, because she wants to become a criminologist.

In the past few years, we faced a global COVID-19 pandemic, which was life-changing for many people. How did the pandemic affect you and your work?

The pandemic had a major impact on me and my work. I completely isolated myself, which was hard for me, but I was also really grateful that I could do that. Being the only one working in my company, I just couldn’t afford to lose my sense of smell.

When I first came out of isolation, I was very scared. I still tend to wear a mask when I enter buildings, because I still fear COVID. The pandemic was also a disaster for my business, because when COVID hit, niche brands put their launches on hold. So for eight months to a year, we almost had no orders. And with the supply chain under pressure from all countries in lockdown...

It wasn’t easy, but we survived. I’m happy to be in such a good place now, personally and businesswise. I am proud to say that I now have clients in over 35 countries!

IN THE SPOTLIGHT One of your latest niche perfume creations that launched this year is Cow for Zoologist, a brand that creates extraordinary fragrances inspired by animals. What was your first reaction when you received the briefing?

When Victor Wong gave me cow as the animal for a perfume, my first thought was: do you hate me or what? Because when you first think of a cow, it’s not as exciting as other exotic and special animals, like a koala. But I actually really liked working on Cow! It was made from scratch and very milky and green, with a hint of apple. And I think the painting-like art on the bottle is very quirky, with the happy cow in the Alps.

COW

BY ZOOLOGIST EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 60 ML | €175

TIPS AND TRICKS In your opinion, what are the best spots to apply perfume?

As a perfumer, I like to apply perfumes to my wrist when I’m working. But when I wear perfume outside of work, I love to apply it to both sides of my neck and to my hair!

What would you advise anyone new to the niche universe, who would like to select a niche perfume for the first time?

Enjoy and experiment! Perfume is a way to express and complement yourself, just like fashion. It is meant to be unique.

Go to a niche perfume store and discover which scents you like.

Just don’t smell it all at once: take your time and try only a few perfumes on your skin, so that you are still able to smell them perfectly, to see if they match you.

61

MAISONREBATCHI |

WWW.REBATCHI.COM

LAST-MINUTE GETAWAY GOODIES ESSENTIALS FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GETAWAY BAG

1. COLONIA

2. L’OMBRE DANS L’EAU

3. BACCARAT ROUGE 540

BY ACQUA DI PARMA

BY DIPTYQUE

BY MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN

DEODORANT SPRAY | 150 ML | €42

SOLID PERFUME | 3,6 GRAMS | €52

EAU DE PARFUM | 70 ML | €215

Going to a hot destination? This comfortable and

An alcohol-free, scented balm with green, fruity, and

Radiant, sensual, and poetic. This timeless classic is

long-lasting deodorant helps you stay fresh all day.

floral accents in a refillable and colourful case. Easy to

a must-have for a night out. Including amber, floral,

Also suitable for sensitive skin.

use and fits in every bag!

and woody notes to scent up your holiday.

5

3 1

4 2

6

4. CELLULAR SWISS UV PROTECTION VEIL SUNSCREEN

5. EL DESCANSO

6. DISCOVERY SET

BY LA PRAIRIE

BY FRASSAÏ

BY GOLDFIELD & BANKS

SPF 50 | 50 ML | €198

EAU DE PARFUM + LEATHER CASE | 7.5 ML | €70

EAU DE PARFUM | 9 x 2 ML | €35

Winter is on its way, but a SPF filter is still important

Celebrating the golden wheat fields of Argentina and

Do you like to take a selection of perfumes to your

for your skincare routine. This lightweight suncare

its warm climate, this scent exudes green and warm

vacay hotspot? This discovery set contains a perfect

can be applied on top of your moisturiser daily.

ambrette, bran absolute, and ambery sandalwood.

variety of bright and fresh samples.

GOLDEN CLASSICS

TIMELESS FRAGRANCE GAME-CHANGERS Niche perfumes have been around for decades, with some of the most iconic perfumes still providing the solid foundation on which the perfume industry is built. Check out these timeless beauties by Goutal, Molinard, Houbigant, and Nicolaï Parfum.

EAU D’HADRIEN

BY GOUTAL EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €165

GOUTALPARIS |

Sometimes, the simple act of reading can transform you and change everything.

This is what happened when Annick Goutal first read Marguerite Yourcenar’s Memoirs of Hadrian one summer in Italy. More than a single-note memory, the perfume inspired by these memoirs became an entire landscape: taking shape under the Tuscan sun, on a terrace lined with cypress and lemon trees. This delightful cocktail of citrus fruit combines sparkling freshness with elegance and a modern touch.

WWW.GOUTALPARIS.COM

ELEGANT | FRESH | AVANT-GARDE

HABANITA

MOLINARDPARFUMS |

WWW.MOLINARD.COM

SENSUAL | AMBER | MYSTERIOUS

In the heart of the Roaring Twenties, Molinard released a mythical perfume: Habanita. Its hint of vetiver, previously reserved for men, seduced women in search of freedom. Initially presented in the form of small sachets designed to be slipped into women’s cigarette packs to cover the smell of tobacco, Habanita became the first feminine oriental in history and paved the way for a new olfactory family: orientals (now known by the name of amber).

?

To celebrate Habanita’s 100th birthday, Molinard created a limited edition Habanita Cent Ans in a lucious red dress. Eau la la!

BY MOLINARD EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €94

65

FOUGÈRE ROYALE

by Les Indemodables, but also amber fragrances, such as Il Capriccio del Maestro by Nobile 1942 and woody perfumes, such as Silence by Alendor Perfumes.

BY HOUBIGANT NOSE: PAUL PARQUET EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €150

66

HOUBIGANT_PARIS |

?

Coumarin is used in 90 per cent of perfumes: in fougeres such as Fougère Emeraude

The House of Houbigant, founded in 1775, is one of the most iconic perfume houses in the world. Its first perfume with a synthetic molecule, Fougère Royale (1882, reissued in 2010), completely revolutionised the perfume world. It contained coumarin, a molecule of tonka bean oil with a warm aroma of almonds and freshly cut hay. Together with lavender and oakmoss, it forms the basis of the fougere accord. This created a whole new family of fragrances: fougere, known for its use of ferns, lavender, and geranium. Fougère Royale opens sparkling and uplifting with aromatic Mediterranean herbs, lavender, and citrus fruit, leading you to the green, warm, spicy, and floral heart.

The perfume closes with warm traces of patchouli, amber notes, and tonka bean.

WWW.HOUBIGANT-PARFUM.COM

SWEET | ELEGANT | FRESH

PATCHOULI INTENSE SPICY | WARM | WOODY

NICOLAIPARFUMEURCREATEUR |

WWW.PNICOLAI.COM

Since 1989, Nicolaï has been regarded as one of the best French perfume brands. The perfume house has built its reputation on the exceptional quality of its fragrances. Patchouli Intense, the brand’s most classic perfume, is a powerful fragrance. Its heart of patchouli is elegantly combined with a base of incense, sandalwood, and spices. The addition of orange, cinnamon, and amber give the perfume the unmistakable typical Nicolaï signature that continues to influence the contemporary creations of the perfume house.

?

Patchouli became very popular in perfumes in the 1960s and 1970s.

Pure patchouli smells spicy and woody: a bit like wet, black earth. It gives perfumes a luxurious, deeply sensual feeling.

BY NICOLAÏ NOSE: PATRICIA DE NICOLAÏ EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €183

67

ROYAL SPLENDOUR CLIVE CHRISTIAN

What truly makes Clive Christian’s creations ‘the world’s finest perfumes’? We delve into the world of Clive Christian perfume with Brand Ambassador Victoria Christian to explore their fascinatingly unique royal heritage and their two latest gems: Blonde Amber and Amberwood.

INTERVIEW WITH VICTORIA CHRISTIAN BRAND AMBASSADOR AT CLIVE CHRISTIAN

E

68

legant and timeless classics, created with only the finest craftsmanship and the most exquisite ingredients that reveal themselves in intense and complex formulations – that is what Clive Christian is all about. The lush, unique, and seductive scents are all one needs for self-expression and pure perfume joy.

Clive Christian’s iconic collections blend the company’s history of perfume magnificence with a future-forward vision. In 1999, visionary designer Clive Christian OBE (Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) acquired the Crown Perfumery Company: one of the oldest British Perfume Houses that dates all the way back to 1872. The heritage is embodied by an iconic crown, the rights to which were first granted to the Crown Perfumery Company by Queen Victoria herself in 1872. An image that still defines every bottle of Clive Christian perfume to this day: the splendid, royal crown can be found on each perfume.

(over twenty years ago) and the perfumes are still unchanged today in comparison to their release: they are true classics.

Created in pairs, these perfumes share the stories of Queen Victoria and her beloved Prince Albert, who commissioned matching perfumes to be worn at court, and the intricate and ravishing Victorian language of flowers that brings hidden poetry into every drop of perfume.”

“My father, Clive Christian, took ownership of The Crown Perfumery in 1999 and restored its underpinning values of grand and true perfumery fit for a queen. He maintained the foundations of true, pure perfume creation, designed to be timeless. The result was the Original Collection released in 1999

Clive Christian is known for the exceptional complexity of its fragrances: in every bottle of perfume you can find between 120 and 300 different ingredients that enable the scent to evolve on your skin, taking you on a unique perfume journey. Victoria shares the secret behind this standard:

CLIVECHRISTIANPERFUME |

WWW.CLIVECHRISTIAN.COM

“Complexity is one of the cornerstones of the Clive Christian brand. This is what makes each drop of our perfumes become so very personally tailored to you − becoming ‘yours’, and telling your story.

Concentration dictates longevity, which refers to how long the perfume will last on your skin. If you fall in love with a perfume, you want it to last as long as possible. A minimum of 150 ingredients in every perfume allows for the notes to showcase themselves, revealing a changing, evolving perfume on your skin from morning to night. The high concentration of our perfumes guides the orchestra of ingredients. They sit closely to your skin and unravel slowly, note by note.

The masterful pairing and placing of a complex network of ingredients allows certain notes to endure, creating a ‘fireworks’ display on your skin as the perfume unravels as the day goes on.

This manner of creation is inspired by our incredibly beautiful heritage of The Crown Perfumery, hailing from a time when perfumes really had to last, and this grand, slow perfumery is really second to none.”

bouquet of blooming florals and dried fruits.

Unlike its pair, Amberwood is a smooth and almost light amber.

With 125 ingredients, this seductive perfume is enhanced with rich and voluptuous woods, freshened aromatic sage, and quintessential bergamot. A hint of tonka, oud, and tobacco in the base adds a warm finish.

And what’s next for the British perfume house as it celebrates 150 years of the Crown Perfumery Company?

“We continue to create and release the finest perfumes in the world. As every bottle of Clive Christian Perfume bears the crown of Queen Victoria, granted to this perfumery in 1872, it is our duty to uphold the level of quality, craftsmanship, and beauty that was recognised by the world’s most influential people. Because of Queen Victoria, the kings and queens and connoisseurs of today can still dip into this treasure trove of luxury perfumes.”

Clive Christian’s rich and sophisticated portfolio blends creative classics such as the Original Collection with bold innovations in more contemporary fragrances from the Addictive Arts range.

All for those who appreciate genuine, timeless crafts and rich, complex perfumes.

These characteristics are carried through to the Noble Collection, inspired by important artistic, architectural, and horticultural movements throughout history. The perfumes take the wearer on a historical journey through the eras. The house’s most recent launch is the new Art Deco pair, Amberwood and Blonde Amber, which celebrates one of the era’s most famous ingredients and design aesthetics: amber. The vibrancy of this precious material and its colour palette can be found in the roaring 20’s, all the way from the beading of a flapper dress to the ornate interiors and even hidden in the fragrance bottles on a beautiful Art Deco sideboard. The perfume oil concentration of 25 per cent creates a magical story of bygone decadence for the modern day wearer.

Blonde Amber has a warm amber character, spiced with aromatic and smoky blond tobacco, just to name a few of the 219 ingredients that symbolise the decadence of Art Deco. The fragrance has an indulgent blend of fine ingredients with a

69

KILIANPARIS |

WWW.BYKILIAN.COM

SCENTED NOTES WRITTEN BY CHI-HO

Interpreting olfactory creations in a unique way: bartender and consultant Chi-ho is transforming scent to flavour! His inspiration: Wet Cherry Liquor and Wild Carrot Oud, two new perfumes by the modern and unique brand Bohoboco Perfume.

CHI-HO TA FROM THE NETHERLANDS

One of my favourite ingredients to use in drinks is carrot. Carrot in combination with oud creates a surprising scent.

The sweet fruity Wet Cherry Liquor is a nice contrast to the Wild Carrot Oud, aromatically fresh instead of deep, heavy, and woody. These two different scents provide inspiration for two different cocktails.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JASPER BOSMAN (IMEDIATE) |

CHI_HO1

WET CHERRY LIQUOR COCKTAIL The cherry is present in the cocktail with a nice full cherry liqueur Heering. This becomes more aromatic in combination with a vetiver gris liqueur and the base of a Rutte dry gin gives it some fresh hints. The sweet notes of the perfume are balanced with the exotic acids of yuzu, making the creation more fruity and aromatic.

WILD CARROT OUD COCKTAIL For Wild Carrot Oud, I wanted to use freshly squeezed carrot juice. Because of the woody tones with hints of tobacco, the choice fell on a beautifully matured and slightly smoked whiskey Bowmore 12 as the basis of the cocktail. Although the perfume is heavy, the cocktail could use a fresh sweetness, with a combination of lemon juice, honey, and cinnamon. Together with the butterscotch, the cinnamon provides a connection with the warm sweet aromas in the perfume.

DIY WILD CARROT OUD COCKTAIL 40 ml Bowmore 12 Whisky | 20 ml carrot juice 10 ml De Kuyper Butterscotch liqueur 25 ml lemon juice | 15 ml cinnamon honey syrup 1. Mix all ingredients with ice cubes between two tins, strain and serve in a tumbler over ice cubes

DIY WET CHERRY LIQUOR COCKTAIL

2. Garnish with a carrot flower and a burnt cinnamon

40 ml Rutte Dry Gin | 15 ml Cherry Heering

stick and spray with a smoky Laphroaig mist

10 ml MUYU Vetiver Gris | 25 ml yuzu juice 10 ml simple syrup 1. Shake and strain 2. Serve up in a Nick & Nora glass 3. Garnish with a fresh cherry on the rim

71

Behind the scents

Get a sneak peek at the most intriguing niche perfume brands.

In this edition, we are zooming in on Birkholz: the Berlin-based brand with a mission to personalise olfactory experiences.

72

Birkholz was founded in 2017, as an extension of the family and a core pillar of inspiration and love. The brand symbolises the creation of incomparable fragrances with exceptional notes and individuality, inspired by places all around the world.

INTERVIEW WITH PHILIP BIRKHOLZ FOUNDER OF BIRKHOLZ PERFUME MANUFACTURE

B

ehind Birkholz is a family that has a love and passion for fragrances. Every family member represents the unique values and individuality that are united in the compositions of each and every single fragrance.

Perfume sommelier and managing director Philip Birkholz is the creative mind behind the compositions. He draws his inspiration from journeys all around the world and unforgettable moments in life. Each fragrance tells a unique story behind its selected notes to create an outstanding sensory experience, meant to make an impact by touching the soul. Not to forget the true artisanship, as everything is crafted with great passion and care.

Philip shares a sneak peek of their perfume manufacturing process: “In our perfume manufactory in Berlin, each fragrance is handmade and filled with the highest precision. For the composition of our fragrances, we exclusively use perfume oils of the highest quality, which is also reflected in the design and production of the flacons.”

73

The fragrances are gender-fluid, intended to dress anyone, regardless of gender, as Philip explains:

RECOMMENDATIONS:

74

ROMANCE IN FLORENCE

VISIONS OF VENICE

AMBER | WOODY | SPICY

WOODY | SPICY

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €210

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €210

BIRKHOLZ.PERFUMEMANUFACTURE |

Birkholz’s collections let you experience exceptional luxury, each scent taking you on a new adventure all around the world. The new Italian Collection takes you on an unforgettable journey through unique and breathtaking Italian landscapes.

The six luxurious fragrances are like a perfect, never-ending holiday, as the colourful scents invite you to discover magical moments, such as the precious and warm sunrise in Milano, or the picturesque scenery of Portofino.

WWW.BIRKHOLZ-PERFUMES.COM

“Creating fragrances without a gender assignment is very important to us. We create perfumes for each customer’s preference without telling them which perfume they would like.

For us, it’s about the individuality and story behind the notes written into each person’s life experiences, as every perfume is as individual as its wearer. That is why we create compositions that tell the stories of life and inspire all our customers.”

ORMONDEJAYNE |

WWW.ORMONDEJAYNE.COM

WILLIE’S FAVOURITES WILLIE OKEN WILLIE.SCENTS Since early 2020 I’ve been blogging about perfumes. My passionate love for niche perfumes started when I bought my very first niche perfume, Nisean by Parfums de Marly. Then I delved deep into niche perfumery and found myself where I am today, a niche perfume nerd.

FAVOURITE LAUNCH OF ‘22 Definitely Turandot by Roja Parfums. In my opinion, it’s one of the most beautiful compositions Roja has ever created. It has that opulence of the ‘yesteryear’ with an underlying contemporary feel.

It’s hard for me to name my all-time favourite. But I do have one perfume that is truly me in a bottle, which I consider to be my signature scent: Amber Aoud by Roja Parfums. It has everything I love in perfumery: a creamy textured rose paired with tame oud in the heart, the warmth of sweet amber, and the depth of exotic woods and spices, with a hint of fruit lingering in the background. It’s sweet, fun, open yet mysterious, and a bit suggestive. If you think you know it, think twice; because it isn’t quite what you see!

HOLIDAY DESTINATION FAVOURITE FOOD I really enjoy deer stew! Rich in the flavour when it’s cooked long, and it goes so well with a mature Bordeaux Rouge or Côte du Rhône Rouge wine.

76

I don’t think I have just one favourite destination. But if I have to name one, it has to be Singapore. During my winter holidays I love to spend quality time with my family and enjoy a Christmas dinner, including hams, casseroles, salmon, and sometimes caviar.

PHOTOGRAPHY: WILLIE OKEN, TING TIAN, AND SWAPNIL BAPAT

DAY-TO-DAY FRAGRANCE

@scentifolia @maitre_parfumeur_et_gantier @aromabaroma @histoiresdeparfums

@fragrancelesque @francesca_bianchi_perfumes

@alexandr.brightman @stephanehumbertlucas

@nose.knows.no.notes @hiram_green

@scent_memory @tomford

@fragrancephotos @buyargos

@scented.enigma @matierepremiereparfums

@adrianscarlat @akrofragrances

@perfumes_de_mari @alexandrejparfums

@aimenvancartier @orienticaperfumes

@gourmandyandy @juliannasperfume

@fragrance_panther @hunq_amsterdam

@frag.ologist @gallivant.stories

@eternalscentjourney @meofusciuni_parfums

@newfragcity @agathoparfum

@nl.fragrances @lorgaparfumsparis

@sniffingbunny @ilkperfume

@vasalund85 @boadiceathevictorious

@theuniverseofscents @senyokoparis

ON THE GRAM

THE PRETTIEST NICHE PIC(K)S

We are always looking for beautifully captured niche perfume gems. Post a picture of your fragrance on Instagram with the hashtag #leparfumnichegem and be sure to tag us (@leparfummagazine). You might find your creation featured in the next edition of Le Parfum haute magazine!

WANT TO BE FEATURED?

77

Scent up your game How multi-sensory branding and design can influence our mood and behaviour.

78

These days, our senses are increasingly overloaded with stimuli to trigger a response, whether we like it – or realise it – or not. An example of how this happens in day-today life is multi-sensory branding and design: the art and science of engaging senses like our hearing and sight.

Expert Claire Sokell Thompson explains what this means and how perfume brands and retailers can better engage their customers by incorporating these elements.

INTERVIEW WITH CLAIRE SOKELL THOMPSON

What is multi-sensory branding and design?

BRAND STRATEGY & CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT ELECTIMUSS LONDON

W

here did you acquire your experience in multi-sensory branding and design?

Initially, my career started in design, branding and creative direction, from which I moved into tech, comms, and digital.

Throughout my early career, I was lucky enough to have the budgets and opportunities to explore some really exciting new areas, such as sonic branding, haptics, tone of voice, mnemonics, storytelling, and experiential branding. Later on, I moved into the luxury retail and hospitality space and created a new luxury niche fragrance brand, Thameen, for a private investor. It was my first professional foray into the world of luxury fragrances, yet it built on a lifetime’s personal passion for perfume. Smell was the final piece of the sensory jigsaw for me and so I founded the multi-sensor agency Vetyver. I then joined Electimuss London two years ago, an exciting emerging niche luxury fragrance brand!

It’s all about increasing connections and experiences by engaging the senses. Architects, retailers, brands, and agencies tend to work in silos considering one aspect of an individual’s experience. But in reality brands, products, and spaces are not experienced like that. As humans, we absorb information with all our senses and form opinions unconsciously, before the conscious cognitive processing even begins. In other words, we often make an instinctive decision based on our senses and then post-rationalise it to justify it later. This is why nowadays the overall experience is considered critically and it gets built with more conscience and care.

What are the types of considerations of multi-sensory experiences?

Neuroscience is the key to unlocking the mysteries of the senses. It’s a complex field that is still very much in the discovery phase, but to summarise it: our brains respond to different external stimuli which inform our behaviours, and our senses are individually and collectively linked to emotions, memories, and actions.

79

Changing sensory environments alters emotions, perception, decision making, and value consideration. It is without question an incredibly powerful tool that can create a compelling environment and has an impact on commercial outcomes.

What are different components of multi-sensory branding and design, and how do they influence your perception?

Multi-sensory experience defines emotional response and engagement, value perception, and ultimately the desire to spend. Colours, shapes, textures, sound, smells, temperature, what we see – they all inter-relate. This is why the five senses of the human body form the different components that can be triggered through multi-sensory branding and design: touch, sight, hearing, smell, and taste. These senses are roughly ‘up for grabs’ and are beneficial for perfume brands and businesses to create memorable in-store experiences Did you know that the smell of chocolate tends to stir up romantic for consumers. feelings? Guess why more and more perfumes have cacao fragrance The overriding principle is to consider all the senses in one notes these days... moment and on a journey, to ensure they are effective can relate fragrances to food, fabrics, drinks, times of the day, and working in harmony in order to achieve the desired pretty much anything. It is a strategy that can be used to help outcome. I like to think of multi-sensory design like a graphic you connect your senses and find something reminiscent equalizer. For example, if you are dialling up the smell in an and meaningful in your own life experience to environment, dial down the lights and relate it to, or by enabling fresh discovery and sound. When in a perfumery and looking delight with something new and surprising. for the perfect fragrance to buy, in an “IT IS A VERY This however requires an environment with ideal scenario, the sensory environment some more time, space, and peace. The sensory is set to focus on your sense of smell POWERFUL TOOL, environment should be set to focus on your and emotional response. The visual sense of smell and your emotional response, and auditory stimulation is lowered AND FREQUENTLY by lowering the visuals and audio stimulation, to create links into the fragrances with in order to create links into the fragrances with stories, sounds, textures, and colours. It AN OPPORTUNITY stories, sounds, textures, and colours. is all down to the details: does the sound Conversely, if they are out for higher volumes match the interiors? Is it too dominant MISSED” and quick sales on cheaper scents or products, for you to converse or focus on smell? they up the tempo, have brighter lights, and Every single thing can be adjusted and play music at a fast beat to up the excitement and push improved for the perfect environment. As a human, you can to purchase. TikTok tracks and videos or talk of newness, remember up to 10,000 smells just from your memories. nowness, viral, which celebrity is wearing it – all of it will create Scents can remind you of your childhood memories or the energy and urgency to sell. So indeed, the different certain people, which you can associate with a perfume. You

?

80

components influence everything. It is a very powerful tool that offers a lot of opportunities.

How do you currently put multi-sensory branding and design into practice for the brand Electimuss?

It’s intrinsically woven into what we do. We don’t have our own physical retail environment yet, and during lockdown most people couldn’t get to stores, so we employ the senses to try to bring our perfumes to life in a different way when they can’t be smelled in person. Electimuss translates as “to choose the best” in Latin, because our brand is inspired by the

PHOTOGRAPHY: KIER IN SIGHT, IRENE KREDENETS

?

Did you know that expansive emotional music with grandeur makes you more likely to buy expensive wines or perfumes?

passion for perfume and the rich tapestry of stories in Roman history and mythology, and so we constantly return to those via storytelling. We try to talk about specific ingredients in context like ‘walking through a haze of jasmine and rose in palace gardens’ or ‘vistas of lavender fields in Provence mixed with Sicilian lemon groves’. Suddenly you get a sense of place, light, colour, scents, emotions, and connections. We also try to describe how our scents make you FEEL when you wear them.

Do they make you feel powerful, comforted, uplifted? And we are now working with musicians, artists, and other creatives to bring our fragrances to life in different media.

Similarly we use sounds, images, stories, emotions, and colour when working with our perfumers to create new fragrances.

For example, we knew that for a new perfume we are working on with Cécile Zarokian, a gourmand centred around vanilla, it wouldn’t be right in our new Consort collection with its emerald bottles. We instinctively felt like it wasn’t right. Knowing the central ingredient will be vanilla, we will launch it in the smoky bottle in our Nero collection, close to the colour of vanilla pods – because when the senses align, it just feels right.

81

MOST REMARKABLE NICHE PERFUME NOVELTIES

Looking for brand new niche perfume masterpieces? We’ve got it covered!

Check out this selection of the most exciting launches – thus far.

2

1. MADURAÏ

BY MEMO PARIS EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €225 A delight for the senses with rich notes of jasmine sambac, sandalwood, tuberose, and turmeric.

1

2. VILLA NÉROLI

BY BDK PARFUMS EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €160 Full of sunshiny joy and serenity, this amber and floral fragrance with notes of Tunisian neroli, orange blossom, and patchouli will brighten your day and sweep you off your feet.

4

3. BABYLONIA

BY ORMONDE JAYNE EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €150 Inspired by the beauty and mystery of the legendary ancient Babylon. Sweet, fruity gourmand notes are intertwined with flowers, creating a seductive scent of irresistible romance.

4. MINI COLLECTION

BY MAISON MATINE EAU DE PARFUM | 15 ML | €25 Nine refreshing, colourful, and sustainable (mini) fragrances, made from organic wheat alcohol.

Packaging made from recyclable materials.

84

3

5. LIBERTINE NEROLI

BY FRANCESCA BIANCHI EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 30 ML | €108

6

Libertine Neroli is inspired by Rome’s ‘Dolce Vita’.

Its composition of bergamot, neroli, and leather evoke a feeling of luxury and freedom.

5

6. PURPLE SUEDE

BY GOLDFIELD & BANKS

7

EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €195 This aromatic and sensual perfume made with lavender, oakmoss, and oud, is inspired by the scent of sun-kissed lavender fields.

7. EARTH

BY LOEWE EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €135 This fragrance, with its delectable notes of truffle, mimosa, and violet, and packaged in a beautiful

8

mauve bottle, inspires you to connect with the beauty of nature.

8. NEROLI MEDITERRANEO

BY PERRIS MONTE CARLO EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €150 The blend of Italian neroli, Mediterranean citrus, ginger, and iris infused in this fragrance tells a story of shimmering sunny days by the sea.

9. DOLCE AMALFI

BY BERDOUES EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €60 An Italian adventure in a bottle with feminine,

9

delicate, and fresh notes such as lemon, Indonesian patchouli, and cedarwood.

85

10. SUMMER JOURNEY COLLECTION

10

BY CARNER BARCELONA EAU DE PARFUM | 30 ML | €65 Three vibrant and sun-kissed fragrances with a touch of lemon, neroli, and blackcurrant to boost that summer feeling.

11. ARANCIA ROSSA

BY LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO PARFUM COLOGNE | 100 ML | €103 A fragrance inspired by the ‘joie de vivre’ of picturesque Italy, masterfully combining notes of mandarin, bergamot, and blood orange.

12

12. APPEAR

BY HERMETICA EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €150 A mouth-watering and fruity surprise that contains a delicious blend of green apple, juicy pear, and melted caramel.

13. P.D.F.

BY V CANTO EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €300

14

11

This fragrance with its notes of coffee, thyme, coumarin, and caramel, is reminiscent of the wonders of new discoveries, harmony, and seduction.

14. DANCING LIGHT

BY OLFACTIVE STUDIO EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €150 A perfume as magical as the northern lights, with a bouquet of white flowers and notes of mint, spicy pink pepper, and musk.

86

13

15. PETALI E SPADE

15 16

BY NOBILE 1942 EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €205 Allow this floral and fruity fragrance, with its notes of aldehyde, jasmine, and white peach, to channel your inner courage and vulnerability. .

16. AMYGDALA

BY MENDITTOROSA EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €450 With its perfect blend of ginger, iris, vetiver, and labdanum, and its perfume concentration of 35 per cent, this attractive and powerful scent helps your

17

mind peacefully drift off into the sunset.

17. CACAO IN THE SUN

BY MAISON TAHITÉ EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €98 A tasty, light, and sensual gourmand fragrance that’s like a voyage to a tropical destination, exuding sweet notes of lemon, chocolate, and vanilla.

18. MYRICA MUSE

BY MILLER HARRIS EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €160

18

Like a perfect aperitif before a meal, this fruity, floral, and musky fragrance seduces you with notes of strawberry, patchouli, rum, and vanilla.

19. DANCE OF THE DAWN

BY THE DIFFERENT COMPANY EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €145 A spicy chypre that takes you to exotic places! Dance

19

of the Dawn is a sensational scent, infused with notes of vanilla, patchouli, black pepper, and pink berries.

87

20. WHITE WHALE

21

BY MASQUE MILANO EAU DE PARFUM | 35 ML | €138 This perfume, with its salty rope accord and notes of osmanthus and cedarwood, tells a tale of wild ocean waves and a mythical white whale.

21. BANIYAS

20

BY WIDIAN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €250 A fragrance as sweet and powerful as music, with notes of bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood, and oud,

22

Baniyas evokes harmonious sensations of timeless beauty.

22. AMORAL

BY PERNOIRE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €195 A fragrance that exudes sensuality – mysterious and captivating like no other, with notes of cinnamon, violet, oud, and tonka.

23. TIME CAPSULE COLLECTION

BY NISHANE EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €315

23

This collection consists of four new perfumes (Kredo, Tero, Papilefiko, and Tempfluo) and takes you on a scented journey through time. Its woody, floral, and spicy notes whisper tales of faraway places and eras gone by.

24. OPUS XIV

BY AMOUAGE EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €325 A daring ode to smoke inspired by high-end cigars, with notes of vanilla absolute, Bulgarian rose, vetiver, and oud.

88

24

26

25. CHI & TALITHA

BY TIZIANA TERENZI EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €420 Chi, with its notes of oud and vetiver, is as mysterious as the bright star it is named after. Luminous and bright Talitha gleams with lemon, ylang ylang, amber, and Italian leather notes.

26. PRESTIGE COLLECTION

BY BOIS 1920 EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €175 The sky is the limit! The essences of these four amazing perfumes range from cocoa fruitiness to spicy florals,

25

and from chocolaty coffee to smoky oud.

27

27. NOCTURNA & NIZAM

BY THE ROYAL CROWN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €579 & €470 Nocturna bottles the secrets of the night with notes of magnolia and sandalwood. Nizam is the perfect example of vetiver at its finest, with orange blossom

PHOTOGRAPHY: PICTURES PROVIDED BY AUTHORIZED SOURCES

and osmanthus. Like a dark, fragrant dream.

28. 33 ABYSSAE

BY L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR EAU DE PARFUM | 75 ML | €195

29

Inspired by the sea’s magical abyss, this fragrance delightfully combines eucalyptus, sensual rose, and

28

cashmeran, exuding a fresh yet soothing charm.

Want to learn more and stay up to date with the latest news? On our online platform you can discover new releases by The Merchant of Venice, Thameen, and many more.

LEPARFUMMAGAZINE |

WWW.LEPARFUMMAGAZINE.COM

29. AND YOUR LIPS

BY FLORAÏKU EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €255 The remembrance of a kiss, soft yet mysterious, with notes like candied jujube fruit, Turkish rose, and white musk.

89

POST

FALL/WINTER 2022 - ISSUE 1

& WIN

COLOPHON PUBLISHER Le Parfum haute magazine leparfummagazine.com leparfummagazine

EDITORIAL TEAM

Time for giveaways! Want to win one of the four scented prizes below?

Follow @leparfummagazine on Instagram, post a picture of you reading Le Parfum at your favourite reading spot, and use the hashtag #mylpmspot.*

editorialteam@leparfummagazine.com Esther Valerius Mandy van Rootselaar Nancy Nichting Nienke Scholten Suzanne Meijer Thérèse Struik

5x

DISTRIBUTION & SALES sales@leparfummagazine.com David Sharifi Hans Spaan

TURKUAZ

BY RÉGALIEN EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €190

5x

MYRICA MUSE

BY MILLER HARRIS EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €160

Keep that summer feeling with a fresh ocean breeze.

A new romantic scent with rose and patchouli.

FEU PATCHOULI

DISCOVERY SET

Rudolph Favier Sam Sharifi

ILLUSTRATIONS Alaa Alawad

8x

BY MAISON REBATCHI EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €150

2x

BY PIERRE GUILLAUME EAU DE PARFUM | 15 x 2 ML | €49

PRINT Magazine Masters

WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO

A sensual and dazzling gem that is fiery and spicy.

A luxury discovery box with 15 fragrance samples.

Alessandro Castagno (Astrophil & Stella), Angelina Patchouli (@anguhandschuh), Cherry Garden, Chi-ho Ta (@chi_ho1), Claire Sokell Thompson (Electimuss London), Crime Passionnel, Dragonfly Olfactory Studio, Esmee Klever, The House of Drops, Jacques Fath Parfums, Jim Leweck (Introspection haute parfumerie), Kim Straver, Nathalie Feisthauer, Parfumado, Parfumsalon Berlin, Philip Birkholz (Birkholz Perfume Manufacture), Place Vendôme, Rehabe Lassouli, Riviera, Sergiu Stancu (@another_fragrance_geek), Spitzenhaus, The Perfumery Barcelona, Victoria Christian (Clive Christian), Willie Oken (@willie.scents), Yana Zhakhouskaya (@cosmetiqua).

The contents of this magazine are copyrighted by Le Parfum haute magazine. It is not permitted to use, translate or adapt any of the contents (imaging or text) for reproduction and/or publication purposes, without permission of Le Parfum. Le Parfum is not liable for inaccuracies in the magazine, social platforms, or the website. partially without prior notice.

Le Parfum © 2022 all rights reserved Le Parfum haute magazine is initiated by:

90

Each month winners are announced via our e-newsletter. Not subscribed yet? Click here. *You can participate in the giveaway until April 2023, after which the giveaway is closed. European entries only. Only one entry per person allowed. Exclusively available for persons over 18 years of age. The winners will be announced via our e-newsletter.

IMAGE: MAMEWMY

Le Parfum reserves the right to publish submitted material fully or

YOUR MONTHLY DOSE OF (NICHE) PERFUME Want to discover perfumes for certain occasions and seasons, without having to risk big bottle ‘blind buys’? With more than 550 travel-size designer and niche perfumes, Parfumado is the ultimate discovery platform for trying something new!

PHOTOGRAPHY: PARFUMADO

The Dutch Parfumado platform was established at the end of 2017 by siblings Martijn and Floor van Rooy, with the goal to guide people through the wonderful world of designer and niche perfumes.

At Parfumado you can find the most beautiful perfumes, from classics to new brands waiting to be discovered. You can explore your favourite fragrance family with the perfume quiz and add the best perfumes to your ‘perfume calendar’. As a subscriber you will receive a monthly surprise perfume or a fragrance of your choice in a handy travel size (8ml), from brands like Gallivant and Ciro.

Parfumado co-founder Floor tells us: “It’s really interesting to see the hugely increased interest in niche perfumes. We see customers who start with trying designer perfumes and then make the step to discover lesserknown brands, only to completely fall in love with them. We can tell this by, among other things, the positive reviews they write and the perfumes they add to their ‘perfume calendars’. That is why more than 50 per cent of our collection now consists of niche perfumes.”

Would you like to try out perfumes on a monthly basis with Parfumado? You can now get a 50 per cent discount on your first month. All you have to do is use this code: NICHELOVER50.

WWW.PARFUMADO.COM Available in the Netherlands, Belgium, and the United Kingdom.

TIME TO GET NOSY Are you ready to solve the crossword puzzle? Answer all the questions, fill in the squares, and find out the secret solution. Enter the solution at leparfummagazine.com/crosswordpuzzle for a chance to win one of the three fragrant prizes!

1

4

5x

3

2

BY ELECTIMUSS LONDON EXTRAIT DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €205

6

5

SILVANUS

8

7

9

10

11

13

An aromatic and woody scent dedicated to the Roman god of the forests and wilderness.

12

14 15

3x

16

THE SCENT OF DESIRE

BY RACHEL HERZ PAPERBACK | €20

17

18

Go on a voyage of discovery with a psychological study about the importance of smell.

19 26

20

2x

21 22

23

2 X E-MAGAZINE + 2 MYSTERY BOXES

24

PACKAGE DEAL | €95

25

SOLUTION 27

92

A YEAR OF LE PARFUM

12

4

2

7

20

10

22

24

25

23

14

5

13

19

27

1

17

21

A whole year of scented stories via our e-magazine, so you can stay updated on the latest articles and news.

HORIZONTAL 2. Which type of fragrance has a perfume concentration of 1-3%?

15. What is the name of the fragrance family with sweet, edible notes?

23. Which perfume ingredient has the nickname ‘liquid gold’?

7. What innovative synthetic ingredient did the famous perfumer Ernest Beaux use to create the fragrance Chanel no. 5?

17. What is the name of Clive Christian’s daughter?

24. Which ancient ingredient was also known as ‘the oil of tranquillity’?

18. What is the name of the essential oil derived from botanical or other natural sources? The Persian physician Ibn Sina was the first to distil this oil from flowers.

25. What is the name of the only perfumery in Europe that has Meleg Parfums in its collection?

8. The word ‘perfume’ is derived from the Latin ‘through smoke’ or...

9. Which southern French city became known for its production of raw materials often used in perfumes in the early Renaissance?

14. What was the nickname of Jacques Fath’s muse, the first official supermodel to appear in Vogue?

19. What is ‘choose the best’ in Latin?

27. What is the name of the 2022 novelty that is inspired by a mythical sea creature and the wild ocean waves?

20. What is the name of one of the oldest fragrance types, first created in Köln in Germany?

VERTICAL 1. What is Angelina Patchouli’s favourite designer handbag?

2. What is the name of the leading international event dedicated to artistic perfumery in Europe?

3. What is the tropical evergreen tree called in which oud is formed?

6. What is a commonly used oil from the peel of a citrus fruit?

10. The world’s first perfumer was a woman. What was her name?

11. Which perfume of a French brand (established in 1849) celebrated its 100th anniversary with a red edition?

4. What is the name of the first perfume with a synthetic molecule released by Houbigant in 1882?

12. Which fragrance started Nathalie Feisthauer’s love for perfume?

5. Which Astrophil & Stella fragrance is based on a mysterious meeting in the desert?

13. Which niche perfume brand infuses every perfume with a sprinkle of 24K gold?

16. What is the second layer in the olfactory pyramid called?

21. What is the name of the fragrance family that has an iconic mix of lavender, coumarin, and geranium?

22. What was one of the first perfumes that consists partly of synthetic substances? Guerlain released this perfume in 1889.

26. What was the most famous and expensive perfume in ancient Egypt?

93

HFCPARIS |

WWW.HFCPARIS.COM

GIFT INSPIRATION

FOR A SPARKLY HOLIDAY SEASON

1. SHADES OF LEATHER

BY LINARI EAU DE PARFUM | 100 ML | €154

Adventure and joy await with this intimate and spicy fragrance of Arabian jasmine, smooth and heavy leather, and cardamom.

2. ELIXIR D’AMOUR

BY PARFUMS D’ELMAR QUINTESSENCE DE PARFUM | 60 ML | €250

A sensual and oriental blend of bergamot, lily of the valley, amyris oil, and burnt caramel, wrapped in a luxurious box for an unmistakably luxurious wowfactor.

3. ANAMCARA

BY DUSITA EAU DE PARFUM | 50 ML | €150

A perfume inspired by friendship, to give to your partner-in-crime! Delicious notes of Italian blood orange, tea accord, apricot, and cedarwood. Everlasting, just like your friendship.

?

Looking for a gift that keeps on giving? Treat yourself or a loved one to Le Parfum haute magazine and a mystery box with niche perfume goodies! Check the following pages for our package deals.

IT’S ALL ABOUT NICHE! More and more perfume lovers like you are looking to discover special perfumes with extraordinary ingredients or compositions to express their personality and enhance their mood. Le Parfum is developed for and by niche perfume lovers to share our deep-rooted passion with the world! We are happy to be your source of inspiration and guide you through the ever-expanding range of niche perfume gems.

WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT TO FIND IN LE PARFUM MAGAZINE? Hot-off-the-press niche news New brand launches Shopping hotspots Striking product intros Expert interviews Giveaways & competitions Exciting trends

98

Can’t get enough of Le Parfum? Subscribe to our e-newsletter and follow us on Instagram to stay up-to-date on everything that’s happening in the world of niche perfumes!

LEPARFUMMAGAZINE |

LEPARFUMMAGAZINE.COM

THE ULTIMATE NICHE PERFUME GIFT Perfume is still in the gift top 5 – and what better way to surprise that special someone – such as yourself – than with an exclusive niche fragrance experience gift?

Treat yourself or a fellow fragrance addict to a Le Parfum e-magazine subscription.

PACKAGE DEALS

PHOTOGRAPHY: AMY SHAMBLEN

We also offer fabulous package deals, which include a mystery box consisting of samples, travel sprays, and even a 15-20 ml niche perfume surprise. Indulge yourself or your nearest and dearest with either a six or twelve month package deal, that will take you straight to niche perfume heaven:

HALF YEAR DEAL

FULL YEAR DEAL

1 x LE PARFUM E-MAGAZINE + 1 x MYSTERY BOX

2 x LE PARFUM E-MAGAZINE + 2 x MYSTERY BOX

(WORTH OVER €100)

(WORTH OVER €200)

€55

€95

BUY NOW

PREFER A PRINTED VERSION? A printed version of Le Parfum haute magazine is available in tons of gorgeous niche perfumeries across 25 countries in Europe. To find a niche perfumery near you that carries Le Parfum magazine, visit our website www.leparfummagazine.com.

101

LEPARFUMMAGAZINE WWW.LEPARFUMMAGAZINE.COM RRP €12.95