Country Folks New England 8.1.11

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Averill Farm’s loyal customers keep coming back markets, and it’s labeled that it isn’t pasteurized.” Cider is a good fit with a PYO apple orchard. Customers pick about 90 percent of the apples, and those that aren’t picked are used for cider. To ensure that PYO customers pick only apples that can be reached easily from the ground, the Averills keep the trees well-pruned and have an employee who picks ahead of where customers will be picking. “We try to pick only what’s ready,” said Susan. “That can be challenging, but we try to stick to it because then our apples taste good. If someone picks a Macoun at the end of August and it isn’t ready until the middle of September, it isn’t going to taste as good.” When customers arrive at the farm, they check a large board at the farm stand that lists varieties ready for picking along with row identification for each variety. Susan says that many customers use their cell phones to take a snapshot of the board for reference in the field. “Because we’re small, we talk with everyone who comes and tell them what’s what,” said Susan. “If they ask for something that isn’t ready, we let them know when it will be ready. People are going crazy for Honeycrisp, but those trees are young and we don’t have a huge supply. A lot of people come in October for winter apples such as Idared and Crispin (Mutsu).” Realizing the importance of maintaining a connection with their customers prior to the PYO season, the Averills set up at two farmers’ markets and sell homemade jams, jellies and the farm’s signature product: homemade apple cider donuts. “We can forge a relationship with the customer,” said Susan, “and it’s wonderful to have something else to sell if there’s a bad apple crop. It keeps people coming early and late in the season.” Susan says on busy fall weekends, the farm kitchen’s two donut makers are running constantly. “Between using our own cider and

The farm stand at Averill Farm is busy from late summer to Christmas with offerings that include the farm's own products as well as items from nearby farms.

only selling donuts the day they’re made, we’ve become locally famous. We like the fact that people have to come to our farm or farmers’ market to get them. We have greater control over the product that way.” Each season, the Averills freeze cider so that there’s plenty for late-season donuts and before the PYO season begins. Averill Farm grows about 100 apple varieties; 20 of which are PYO. Susan says they aren’t following the trend toward dense trellis plantings for several reasons. “We have plenty of land,” she said. Sofie and Riva Martin working on thinning apples at Averill Farm. “We’re doing new Photos courtesy of Averill Farm plantings on dwarf rootstock with a events each season including local stake rather than wire trellis so that authors and book signings. “We’re very customers can walk around the trees low key,” said Susan. “We don’t have a easily. Making it a nice experience for lot going on, just a few special events. our customers is definitely most “A friend brings alpacas on Sundays in important.” October, and someone brings goats In addition to apples, the Averills milk soap on Saturdays.” At the begingrow a variety of pears for PYO. A pres- ning of the apple-picking season, sure tester on pears helps determine Connecticut chef and author Emily optimum picking time. Pears are Brooks will be at the farm, and Tractor offered as PYO only until they’re too Mac author Billy Steers will be there in ripe — remaining pears go into cold late September. storage. Averill Farm supports other “We like to be hands-on and we like local farms through purchasing fall to meet the customers,” said Susan, favorites such as mums, pumpkins, adding that Sam likes to take care of gourds, squash, garlic, maple prod- the trees himself. “It’s changed a lot ucts and potatoes for sale at their farm since we took over from his parents — stand. They also grow several acres of it’s supporting us. We’re happy with Christmas trees, which are offered as where we are now.” choose and cut. Visit Averill Farm on line at The farm features several special www.averillfarm.com

Sam Averill, on right, and long-time Averill Farm employee Warren Walker, Jr. check a load of just-picked apples.

August 1, 2011 • COUNTRY FOLKS New England • Section A - Page 3

by Sally Colby Sam Averill is the ninth generation to operate a historic 250-acre Washington Depot, CT, farm that’s been in the family since 1746. Sam’s father sold apples by the bushel or half-bushel directly from the field while his mother sold them from a stand in front of the house. When Sam and his wife Susan took over the farm in 1993, they knew they wanted to construct a farm stand. “Everyone told us it should be near the road,” said Susan. “But we were used to being up in the field where the view is fantastic. We decided to take a chance on that location.” It was worth the risk. The farm stand sits on a knoll in the middle of a field with outstanding views in all directions. Susan says that customers enjoy the drive up a long, dirt driveway, then seeing the farm stand and the trees when they arrive. Sam and Susan continued to develop the PYO started by Sam’s father in 1965, and added related products, such as cider. But when regulations for making and selling cider in Connecticut changed, the Averills had to come up with an alternative to satisfy their loyal customers. “We used to take our apples to a nearby cider mill,” said Susan, “but new state regulations required cider to be made and sold on site.” Susan says that for a while, they offered pasteurized cider from another orchard, but customers were disappointed with the flavor. “We were disappointed too,” she said. “We weren’t selling the kind of product we like.” Since the Averills were planning to add a commercial kitchen to their farm stand, they included a cider-making room in the plans. They purchased a rack and cloth press from a nearby orchard and were back in the cider business. “We started making cider the way we like it,” said Susan, adding that they only use fruit that’s picked from trees then washed. “We can sell it directly from farm and at farmers’


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