Food & Wine - March 2022

the f&w Guide to pizza

S O P P R E S S ATA PIZZA WITH CAL ABRIAN CHILE HOT H O N E Y P. 8 4

P. 3 5

E ASY, CR E A M Y H O M E M AD E RICOT TA

MARCH 2022

P. 5 5

P. 9 6

16 W INES P ERF ECT FO R E A RLY S PRING

SCA LLI ON PA NCA K ES, LO M E I N, AN D M O RE !

Tiffany Pham CEO of Mogul & Speaker Supports diverse individuals to unlock their potential and reach success.

ENGINEERED TO A HIGHER STANDARD —THE HUMAN STANDARD

The Lexus LS Supports Tiffany by revealing the road ahead with an available 24-inch Head-Up Display and a class-leading safety suite.*

THE LEXUS LS lexus.com/LS | #LexusLS

Options shown. *2021 LS vs. 2020/2021 competitors. Information from manufacturers’ websites as of 10/8/2020. ©2021 Lexus

Acclaimed for its exquisite design and advanced technology, the Monogram Professional Range is redef ining luxury appliances one detail at a time.

Elevate Everything.

EX PER IENCE THE UNR I VA LED Unique and familiar flavors move across your palate in a perfectly tuned dance of epicurean delight. The music that moves them is orchestrated by the creativity of your chef, the direction of the maître ’d, the guidance of your sommelier and the attentiveness of the wait staff. Every dining experience aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises invites you into a symphonic exploration of culinary pleasure.

Discover unmatched culinary delights with the unrivaled space and exemplary, personalized service found only aboard The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™.

START YOUR JOURNEY AT RSSC.COM CALL 1.844.473.4368 OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

For the latest details on our healthand safety protocols, please visit RSSC.com/healthsafetyprvotocols

EVERY

LU X URY INCLUDED

PRESENTING SPONSOR

SPONSORED BY

J OIN US

J U NE 17-19, 202 2 AT TH E

3 - DAY CU LINARY E XPERIEN CE WITH G AM E- CHAN GIN G CU LINARY LE AD ERS , IN N OVATIVE WIN E & SPIRITS E XPERTS , AN D EPI CU RE AN INSID ERS

TICKETS ON SALE NOW C L A S S I C . F O O DA N DW I N E . C O M © 2022 TI Gotham Inc., a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Must be 21 years of age or older to consume alcoholic beverages. Please drink responsibly.

F E AT U R E S

70

The Food & Wine Guide to Making Pizza at Home Our flavorful, forgiving pizza dough is the key to these great homemade pies.

By Hunter Lewis, Mary-Frances Heck, and Paige Grandjean

86

96 Chicken Spaghetti Lo Mein (recipe p. 102)

10

MARCH 2022

From Yemen with Love At Yafa Café in Brooklyn, one of the world’s oldest coffee cultures takes on a delicious new lease on life. By Khushbu Shah

Coming to America After moving to the Midwest in the 1960s, the dinner table became a canvas for creativity for one writer’s family. By Lan Samantha Chang

ON THE COVER photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI; food styling by TORIE COX; prop styling by AUDREY DAVIS

PHOTOGRAPHY: VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

CONTENTS

Ready, Set, Spring!

Credit approval required. Terms apply. See capitalone.com for details.

HANDBOOK

MARCH RECIPES 14

Crispy scallion pancakes, sticky honeycomb buns, and pro pizzas at home

33

EDITOR’S LETTER 16

If at first you don’t succeed, pie, pie again.

OBSESSIONS

21

Spring is on the way!

It’s time to upgrade your composting game, dabble in foraging, and channel tomato season one candle at a time.

How—and why—to make creamy ricotta at home, a warmly spiced carrot cake, plus a celebration of spring produce

T R AV E L 63

BOTTLE SERVICE 55

Volcanic soils make for perfect transitionseason wines–we’ve got the bottles to buy. Plus, the art of the stirred cocktail.

Canada’s Magdalen Islands are filled with high-caliber restaurants, breweries, and much more.

In Dallas, a Best New Chef shares her favorite spots.

BACKSTORY

104

Whether you’re a Thin Mint aficionado or team Caramel deLite, you’ll want to read the delicious history behind Girl Scout Cookies.

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/myaccount. You can also call 1-800-333-6569 or write Food & Wine, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0508. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

For syndication or international licensing requests or reprint and reuse permission, email syndication@meredith.com. FOOD & WINE Cookbooks Service, 800-284-4145. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

12

MARCH 2022

photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

FOOD STYLING: MELISSA GRAY; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS

CONTENTS

D E PA R T M E N TS

AFAR Travelers’ Awards 2020 CRUISE CRITIC Cruisers’ Choice 2019 PORTHOLE Best Alaska Itineraries 2020 TRAVELAGE WEST Editor’s Pick 2020

*

•

• staff favorite

COCKTAILS

Catcher •• Dream Woman •• Shadow •• The Monarch

P. 61 P. 61

P. 60

53

ESSENTIALS

Pizza Sauce •• Basic Ranch • Fancy Confit • Garlic Fresh •• Homemade Ricotta Hot Honey • Really • DoughGood Pizza Garlic Oil •• Smashed Pour-Over •• Yemeni Coffee

P. 78

P. 83

STA F F- FAV O R I T E

P. 83

PA I R I N G

P. 35

CRISPY RICE CAKE LASAGNA

P. 83

with fruit-forward, spicy Zinfandel: 2019 Marietta Cellars Román

P. 74

P. 83

P. 95

Fried • Hawaij-Spiced Chicken Sandwiches Flank Steak • Stir-Fried with Yellow Onions

VEGETABLES, SALADS & SIDES

P. 95

and Spring •• Asparagus Onion Salad with Seven-

•• • •••

Minute Eggs P. 42 Radish Tartines with Green Butter P. 44 Scallion Pancakes P. 102 Stir-Fried Iceberg Lettuce P. 103

P. 100

PIZZAS

Cheese Pizza • Classic Potato Pizza with Crème

P. 84

VEGETARIAN MAINS

“Paneer” with •• Palak Pressed Fresh Ricotta •• Parmesan-Herb Gnudi Bulgur Wheat •• Yemeni Shurba (Soup)

•

P. 38

P. 36

P. 94

MAIN DISHES

Shrimp with Peas • Buttery and Potatoes and Spring Onion • Carrot Toad-in-the-Hole

DESSERTS

Mousse •• Honey-Ricotta with Strawberries Al Nahl (Honey•• Khaliat comb Buns) Coffee Cake • Rhubarb Carrot Cake • Spiced with Brown Butter P. 39

P. 40

95

STA F F- FAV O R I T E PA I R I N G

HAWAIJ-SPICED FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES

with bright, light-bodied red: 2019 Tilia Bonarda

P. 94

P. 43

•

Fraîche and Bacon P. 84 Sausage and Ricotta Pizza with Castelvetrano Olives P. 85 Soppressata Pizza with Calabrian Chile Hot Honey P. 84 Wild Mushroom Pizza with Homemade Ranch P. 84

P. 46

Chicken Spaghetti Lo Mein P. 102 Crispy Rice Cake Lasagna

Frosting P. 49

P. 53

2019 LOUIS JADOT CHÂTEAU DES JACQUES MOULIN-À-VENT ($28) Beaujolais’ most substantial wines come from Moulin-à-Vent; they’re delicious on release but able to age as well. This black cherry–rich red was terrific with arroz con pato from NYC’s superb Contento restaurant.

14

MARCH 2022

2020 ZUCCARDI CONCRETO MALBEC ($40)

2019 QUINTODECIMO GIALLO D’ARLES GRECO DI TUFO ($50)

Sebastián Zuccardi is a force in Argentinean wine despite his fairly young age—he’s at the front of a growing movement to make Malbec less oaky and super-ripe, and this wine is emblematic of his approach: savory and fresh, with bright plum and floral notes.

I drank a bottle of this brilliant Southern Italian white in Rome in November, and it’s stayed with me ever since: complex, lingering, stony yet luscious at the same time, with stone fruit and honeysuckle notes. It isn’t easy to find but well worth the hunt.

ILLUSTRATION: DANA JUNG

What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month

Food & Wine (ISSN 0741-9015) (March 2022) (Volume 45/Issue 2) is published monthly except for a combined issue in December/January by TI Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Meredith Operations Corporation. Principal Office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008.

Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2) Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Food & Wine Magazine, P.O. Box 37508 Boone, IA 50037-0508. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement # 40069223. BN# 129480364RT. © All Rights Reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/myaccount. You can also call 1-800-333-6569 or write Food & Wine, P.O. Box 37508 Boone, IA 50037-0508. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media.

MARCH RECIPES

•

key: fast vegetarian

Make your second home dreams a reality pacaso.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

SHOULD I GO TO CULINARY SCHOOL or work in

restaurants? I get asked this question a lot by young cooks and career-changers looking to create their own path in the food world.

I was at the same crossroads many years ago and ultimately chose restaurants, thinking I’d cook professionally for a year and then translate that experience into a writing gig. How wrong my timeline was. Within an hour on the job as a line cook, I realized that cooking was going to be a lifelong journey.

My journey recently led me on a quest to make better pizza at home. What I learned, through far too many blah pies, is that any pizza curriculum must start with good dough— with how to mix it, ferment it, and shape it.

My colleagues Mary-Frances Heck and Paige Grandjean joined me in months of recipe development. Because commercial pizza ovens easily reach 700 or 800 degrees, we tested our recipes in the kinds of residential ovens that you, our readers, have at home. We fine-tuned our formulas at the same time as we fed our families and friends, and we got better at making pizza with every batch. You’ll find the results of our deep dive in “The F&W Guide to Making Pizza at Home” (p. 70).

Truth is, we’re all still learning, no matter how old or experienced we are. Cooking is a journey, full of roadblocks, plateaus, and aha! moments that lead us to new discoveries and

16

MARCH 2022

HAT TIP TO MY PIZZA GUIDES

skills. This spirit of learning and sharing is the lifeblood of Food & Wine, and it propels this issue. Did you know Yemen is one of the birthplaces of coffee culture? In “From Yemen with Love” (p. 86), Khushbu Shah takes us to a café in Brooklyn where Hakim Sulaimani celebrates the history of coffee through the lens of his Yemeni heritage. What was it like for a Chinese immigrant family to assimilate into life in Appleton, Wisconsin, in the 1960s? I’m inspired by novelist Lan Samantha Chang’s story of how her parents improvised with ingredients to create beautiful, nourishing meals, creating indelible memories in the process. (See “Coming to America” on p. 96.)

Also in this issue: how to make a decadent homemade ricotta (the buttermilk coagulates the milk proteins to form curds—science!) and Ray Isle’s recommendations for his favorite volcanic wines, which take their characteristic acidity from the fast-draining, poor soils typical of vineyards in volcanic areas. (They also happen to go well with pizza. Just saying.)

As we put the finishing touches on our March issue and send it to the printer, I’m thinking about the best part of this cooking life: all of the delicious results along the way.

It’s an education that never stops giving.

HUNTER LEWIS HUNTER@FOODANDWINE.COM

Francisco Migoya, coauthor of Modernist Pizza with Nathan Myhrvold, helped me get out of a dough rut with a chat about highprotein supermarket bread flours and hydration ratios.

Dan Richer of Razza in Jersey City bakes some of the best pizza in the U.S.; his cookbook The Joy of Pizza, written with Katie Parla, will be a valuable resource for years to come.

Credit goes to Vittoria in Savannah, Georgia, and L’Industrie in Brooklyn for inspiring the fatty, spicy, sweet toppings on our cover pizza (p. 84). And shoutout to my friend Justin Smillie at Il Buco Alimentari for convincing me to parbake dough (p. 80), a revelation for crisper crusts and fast-tracking pizza for a crowd.

Subscription Help: foodandwine.com/ myaccount or email us at FAWcustserv@ cdsfulfillment.com or call 1-800-333-6569.

photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS

Slice of Life

AD VE RT I SE MEN T

R O B IN & S U E P HOTOGR APH Y

Dan Richer

umber one pizza her.

S

traightforward, beautifully designed, and easy to use, Ooni Pizza Ovens is revolutionizing home-made pizza. By honing in on a few key elements—ultra-high heat (950°F), flame-cooked flavor, and extreme speed—Ooni makes pizza simple, transforming even the most humble home chef into a pie master.

Pizza Ovens From wood-fired flavor to gas-powered consistency, Ooni’s portable pizza ovens offer the essential tools you need to create perfect backyard pizzas—whether you’re an aspiring home chef or an established pro looking to create restaurant-quality pizza at home.

For the ultimate in versatility, try the new Ooni Karu 16 model, a multi-fuel oven that allows for wood or charcoal out-of-the-box, and gas with the optional gas burner attachment.

The first and only home oven on the market approved by the Associazione Verace Pizza Naploetana (AVPN), the acclaimed international authority on true Neapolitan pizza, this revolutionary oven reaches 950°F in just 15 minutes, features a large cooking area that accommodates 16-inch pies, and affords better temperature control, more fuelefficient air flow, increased oven insulation, and better visibility.

For bakers who are looking for ease-of-use and more consistent control, the Ooni Koda 16 is a perfect option. This gas-powered oven reaches 950°F in 20 minutes and creates fresh, stone-baked pizza in just 60 seconds. Instant gas ignition, a large cordierite stone baking board, and a powerful L-shaped flame make this oven a best-seller.

If portability is what you need, the Ooni Fyra 12 wood pellet pizza oven is the way to go. At just 22 lbs. this oven is easy to take on the road and its innovative, gravity-fed wood pellet hopper makes for effortless cooking with consistently high heat and low maintenance.

Tips from a Master Chef/owner of Razza in Jersey City, NJ, Dan Richer is a four-time semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic award, and a James Beard Rising Star Chef semifinalist. The New York Times has called his pizza the best in New York—even though it’s served in New Jersey.

We caught up with the celebrated chef to get his take on how to create the very best backyard pizza.

Ooni Karu 16

AD V ERT I SEM EN T

I always recommend the Ooni gas burner as an essential accessory.

-Dan Richer

Q+A Ooni Koda 16

Awesome Ooni Accessories Uber slick design meets incredible functionality with Ooni’s full range of accessories. From pizza peels and cutter wheels to thermometers, skillets, and specialist ingredients from their recently launched online grocery store, Ooni is your one-stop-shop for bringing your pizza game to the next level. Achieving the ultimate pizza has never been so simple.

higher quality pizza than gas and electricity but this is completely untrue.

All fuel sources have the ability to heat an oven to the appropriate temperature to bake a delicious pizza. The type of oven, the availability of the fuel source, and the skill level of the baker are determining factors for which fuel should be used.

Which heat source is best for novice pizza makers?

Natural fuel sources like wood and coal are fun to bake with but can cause a first-time baker some frustration. They need to be tended to and learned, which takes time and practice. The home baker should practice their dough making, stretching, topping, and baking first using a consistent fuel source like gas or electricity, before using natural fuel sources to heat their oven.

caramelization or browning of the crust, and the melt of the cheese.

Is there a perfect ratio of sauce to cheese?

The cheese-to-sauce ratio is very important, and I love a 60% cheese, 20% sauce, and 20% rosy pink area where the cheese and sauce mingle together.

Toppings should be well thought out and their sizes, shapes, flavors, and textures considered. Less is always more when it comes to toppings.

Are there any accessories you find essential for creating perfect pizza?

I always recommend the Ooni gas burner as an essential accessory for the beginner. I also recommend a box of their wood if you plan on baking with natural fuel. Each piece of wood is the perfect size for the firebox—saving you lots of time and energy.

Learn how to make professional quality pizza with an Ooni Pizza Oven. Visit ooni.com for everything you need to start making pizza.

Wynn redefines glamour. Once again.

Discover the city’s most unforgettable experiences at the award-winning Wynn and Encore Las Vegas—including Delilah, our modern-day supper club where the only thing standing still is time.

For reservations, visit wynnlasvegas.com

OBSESSIONS EDITORS’ PICKS

Convenient Compost This sleek countertop tool makes composting at home easy.

By Kelsey Youngman

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS

Kitchen scraps bound for the Vitamix FoodCycler, an electric composter that turns food waste into fertilizer overnight (See p. 22.)

produced by OSET BABÜR-WINTER

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

MARCH 2022

21

OBSESSIONS

W

into a small apartment in a large city, I faced a conundrum: I wanted to compost to reduce my food waste, but there was no residential composting program in my neighborhood, and I didn’t want to entice critters to the building’s backyard with attractive food scraps. (And yes, I do make stock—but not that much stock!) So began my yearslong relationship with the bucket I’d keep in my freezer and fill with vegetable trimmings, chicken bones, and leftovers, dutifully dragging it to the farmers market compost pile when it filled up. I was very excited to learn of the Vitamix FoodCycler FC-50, an at-home “food recycler” roughly the size of an automatic drip coffee maker that breaks down food waste into fertilizer in a fraction of the time. I tried it out to see if it could beat my hassle-intensive freezer method.

I kept the machine’s food waste bucket underneath my sink, where I tossed scraps throughout the day, an action that quickly became routine. There’s no need to add enzymes or additives (though you can, if you want to incorporate additional beneficial bacteria) because the machine works by dehydrating, grinding, and then cooling the food into a ground output of “dehydrated food waste.”

Each cycle can run from four to eight hours, depending on the volume and variety of scraps, so I ran it overnight, slotting the bucket into the machine once a day before going to bed. The machine is wonderfully quiet while it runs, plus the carbon filter in the lid keeps it odorless regardless of what’s inside. Closing the lid at night on a heap of banana peels, onion skins, citrus rinds, and even chicken bones and opening it in the morning to see a tiny desiccated pile of fertilizer felt a bit like magic.

The final texture depends on the blend of foods, so sometimes I ended up with a powdery substance, and other times, it was more mulch-like. But most importantly, the output was always a tiny fraction of the initial volume (about one-tenth, by my reckoning), which means that container of bones, peels, and stems taking up valuable space in my freezer is no more. And the broken-down compost heads directly into my building’s flower garden; it’s as easy as that. ($400, vitamix.com)

22

The machine works best with some air and space to run properly. Loosely fill almost to the top before running a cycle, without compressing the scraps.

HEN I MOVED

MARCH 2022

A mix of food scraps processes better than a load of one kind, so toss in leftovers and peels all day long.

Foods like eggshells and coffee grounds will help keep denser scraps moving while the machine runs; the food waste basket is conveniently dishwasher safe for simple cleanup.

The FoodCycler can grind up most fruits and vegetables, rice and grains, and even cheese, but save tougher scraps, like stone fruit pits, for a city composting site or a larger outdoor system.

THE OBSESSIVE

August, Is That You? Tomato candles channel summer into my apartment during the dead of winter. that my idea of a perfect vacation is Montreal in January (and that I can only reach inner peace during scarf-andsweater weather), even my cold soul longs for that two-week stretch of August when the farmers market looks like a treasure chest, with bright heirloom tomatoes glittering at its center. To bring that feeling into the cooler months of the year, I turn to tomato candles, which I’ve found to be more effective at lifting the spirit than any lighttherapy lamp or weighted blanket. Despite its niche inspiration, this is a surprisingly popular and complex category of candle, with fragrances ranging from floral and fruity to herbaceous and downright delicious.

REGARDLESS OF THE FACT

—OSET BABÜR-WINTER

1. FLAMINGO ESTATE ROMA HEIRLOOM TOMATO This is the purist’s tomato candle, so much so that it’s impossible not to crave a juicy pan con tomate or a fresh panzanella within 15 minutes of striking that match. If you’re looking for a single-note option with a strong throw (small-apartment dwellers, be warned), look no further. ($45, flamingoestate.com)

2. JONATHAN ADLER TOMATO POP

2

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS

1

Sandalwood and basil dominate this cheery offering from design maven Jonathan Adler. Earthy and beautifully packaged (the vessel is meant to be cleaned and reused as a decoration), this candle is perfect for chilly nights when I wish I had a fire going. ($42, jonathanadler.com)

4 3

5

5. OTHERLAND TOMATO TERRAZZO If you haven’t tried and loved an Otherland candle yet, well, where have you been?

This scent leans on the sweeter side, echoing peak tomato season. It’s sure to please lovers of delicate, fruit-forward fragrances and is well suited to burn for hours. ($36, otherland.com)

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

4. LOEWE LARGE TOMATO LEAVES

3. BOY SMELLS GARDENER

Nestled inside a ribbed terra-cotta vessel, this four-wicked, eight-pound candle from Spanish designer Loewe also comes in a smaller size (and more approachable price), but for the tomato fanatic, the big one is a worthwhile investment. Herbaceous and minty, its subtle scent gradually develops from lightly spiced to sharp and refreshing. ($370, loewe.com)

With prominent notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, and rose, this is as floral as you can get while still being a tomato candle. In Boy Smells’ signature sleek black jar, Gardener is a complex, versatile candle that is strong enough to mask unwanted, unsavory odors in your home without being too overpowering. ($32, boysmells.com)

MARCH 2022

23

OBSESSIONS

COLEMAN PORTABLE BUTANE STOVE A lightweight camping stove is a necessity for at-home Korean barbecue, and it also comes in handy for shabushabu and hot pot. Be mindful when cooking with inexperienced diners—the elevated setup raises the risk of splatters compared to the built-in tabletop grills at most restaurants. Paired with a long-reach kitchen gas lighter, this camping stove is a mainstay for any KBBQ lover. ($33, amazon.com)

AT H O M E

Lights, Tongs ... Fire! How to bring home the ritual of Korean barbecue

By Patricia Kelly Yeo there’s no lovelier sound than the sizzle of kalbi on a Korean barbecue grill. Now, thanks to Asian supermarket chains like H Mart and Zion Market, it’s easy to re-create the restaurant experience at home with ready-made banchan (traditional side dishes) and pre-marinated meats.

First, however, you’ll need a KBBQstyle grill and a few other accoutrements to turn your dining table into a setup that rivals that of Chosun Galbee in Los Angeles or Cote Korean Steakhouse in NYC and Miami.

TO MY MIND,

24

MARCH 2022

IWATANI CB-P-Y3 GRILL PLATE Although a heavier square grill plate will get the job done, this 12-inch round barbecue plate comes with a restaurant-style removable handle and slots that allow for drainage of the grease that can build up over the course of cooking meat Korean barbecue–style. To clean, scrub gently with the rough side of a kitchen sponge; avoid using steel wool to extend the life of your KBBQ grill plate. ($59, amazon.com)

HAAND BOWLS KBBQ at home wouldn’t be complete without banchan, a term that collectively refers to the side dishes eaten with cooked rice in Korean cuisine.

(Some restaurants send out just a few; others, like Genwa in Los Angeles, send out a dozen.) Housed in these colorful so-called dessert bowls, your banchan are sure to serve as a stunning cast of supporting characters to the meat-centric main affair happening on the tabletop grill. ($21, haand.us)

GARASANI STAINLESS STEEL LIDDED RICE BOWLS Stainless steel rice bowls (not pictured), similar to those used in restaurants, are worth buying both for their functional elegance and their wow potential at dinner parties. Covered and filled with steaming hot short-grain white rice, they help their contents retain their heat longer than open bowls. The bowls are also stackable, which makes them easy to store. ($23, amazon.com)

Raise a Flag, Not a Fuss How to send food back respectfully

By Abigail Glasgow You’re at a restaurant, and the plate brought out by the staff is not what you ordered, or it includes ingredients you cannot eat. Thinking of pointing it out, your brain begins to skip through the food chain: If you decide to say something, will it embarrass or frustrate the waiter? Will the restaurant lose money? What happens to this food? Will it get thrown away? This arm of restaurant politesse—the precarious dance between guest and staff—doesn’t have an explicit code of conduct. But there’s a fine line between speaking up when something is wrong and being an entitled nightmare.

PICTURE THIS:

1

SPEAK UP FOR YOURSELF

For some, sending back food isn’t just a matter of dissatisfaction—it’s a necessity. “I have sent back food [that I couldn’t eat] and hated myself for it. I have also ordered a second meal because I couldn’t remember if I had actually mentioned my celiac,” shares Coco K., a New Yorker with a severe allergy who often dines out. Over the years, she has learned how to be more vocal in speaking up—and has found that most restaurants are understanding when it comes to allergies.

2

BE KIND AND DIRECT

“Trying to figure out when to advocate for yourself is not the easiest thing, and it’s hard for guests to muster up the courage to say, ‘This isn’t what I ordered,’” shares 2020 Food & Wine Best New Chef Trigg Brown. “But those of us in the industry appreciate forthrightness because we want to fix it.” So be direct, and don’t apologize for your ask, but do be aware of how you voice your request. For Brown, asking to send food back comes down to reading the room and making an effort to be a good human about it.

“Open dialogue is a lot more productive than someone coming in with a loaded gun or just being cruel.”

3

CONSIDER THE BIGGER PICTURE

Dana Gunders, executive director of the U.S. food waste reduction and management nonprofit ReFED, thinks more people should question our obsession with perfection when it comes to our meals. “By nature, food is imperfect; the more we demand perfection in our food, the more food goes to waste,” she says. Take a minute to examine what warrants your request in the first place. (If it’s a life-threatening allergy, of course, there’s no question.) “So before sending your dish back, remember that it takes an enormous amount of resources to get that food to the table. Don’t eat something that’s truly objectionable or unsafe, but if it’s a minor issue, consider letting it go.”

4

REMEMBER YOUR THANK-YOUS

If the kitchen sends you a new plate (especially one on the house), you’re not off the hook; as our parents taught us, say please and thank you. “It’s important to remember we’re all human and we’re doing the best we can,” says Deborah Williamson, cofounder of James in Brooklyn. “Simply be kind and appreciative, and leave a good tip.” Chef Lior Hillel of California-based restaurant Bacari takes it a step further and encourages guests to spread the word. “Word of mouth can go a long way,” he says. “Share your experience with friends and those closest to [you].”

Want more stories like this? Subscribe to the FWPro newsletter at foodandwine.com/fwpro.

illustration by OSCAR BOLTON GREEN

MARCH 2022

25

and masted ships are specially designed to get you closer to the places you want to see and discover more deeply.

Drink in views of iconic city skylines and remote islands, all while enjoying a wonderful sense of community and making lifelong connections.

EXPERIENCE WORLD-CLASS DINING CHART YOUR OWN COURSE

With a fleet of newly transformed all-suite Star Plus Class yachts, or classic Wind yachts with billowing sails, Windstar Cruises offers a private yacht feel where you can leave behind the crowds and savor experiences. Each stateroom or suite offers its own stunning ocean view and plenty of space to unwind. Personalize your journey with All-Inclusive fares, which include unlimited WiFi, beer, wine, cocktails, and gratuities, or choose the amenities you want à la carte with Cruise-Only fares.

INDULGE YOUR SENSE OF ADVENTURE

From one-of-a-kind shore excursions to complimentary Watersports Platforms where you can jump right into the water or straight into a kayak, a Windstar Cruise is 180 degrees from the ordinary. Their all-suite yachts

As the Official Cruise Line of the James Beard Foundation, Windstar Cruises offers superlative dining and service with heart. Dining options include Cuadro 44 by 10-time Michelin-starred chef Anthony Sasso and Star Grill by global grilling authority Steven Raichlen, both available on Star Plus Class yachts only; al fresco fare at Veranda; dishes created by James Beard Foundation chefs served nightly at AmphorA, the main dining room on each Windstar ship; and French bistro fare at Stella Bistro.

Along with globally inspired meals, visit breweries, take hands-on cooking classes, and even join the yacht’s chef for a market tour. Or indulge in a culinary themed cruise where you can meet James Beard Foundation affiliated chefs and ask them for tips.

To find out more, visit windstarcruises.com.

Found Foods Chefs and home cooks alike are renewing their passion for humanity’s oldest culinary pursuit.

By Maddy Sweitzer-Lammé

28

MARCH 2022

PHOTOGRAPHY: (JARS) KATIE CHILDS; (PORTRAIT) RACHEL BAREHL

OBSESSIONS

TRENDSPOTTING

D

is offering pawpaws to a surprised couple in a park on an early afternoon in suburban New Jersey. “They’re like a mix between a banana and a mango,” he explains. “You just rip the skin open and eat the flesh.” He demonstrates how by slurping the tender insides and handing each person one of the peanutshaped fruits from his basket. They take them, dubious at first, their hesitancy quickly melting away as they take a taste, emboldened by his enthusiasm.

Childs is used to this particular type of skepticism. At the restaurant where he works, he coaxes uncertain guests to open their minds and palates as they sample drinks largely made from unexpected ingredients that go beyond the whiskey sours and tequila sodas that dominate nearby menus. The 60 or so pounds of pawpaws that he’s gathered today will be processed and turned into a vinegar-based shrub, forming the base ingredient for his signature Pawpaw Pisco Sour. He’ll serve it all year long at The Farm and Fisherman Tavern, an unassuming restaurant in suburban New Jersey, where Childs runs one of the most distinctive, creative bar programs in the region, inspired by foraged ingredients. (He’s also at work on a book, Slow Drinks, that will be published in fall 2023.)

Childs, whose interest in foraging began while he was studying ethnobotany in college, is part of a recent return to the practice. Today’s foraging movement is driven in part by high-end restaurants like Noma and Eleven Madison Park, where diners pay hundreds of dollars to sample rare ingredients plucked from the local landscape, and increasingly— especially since the pandemic—by home cooks who are getting in on the action and driving a surge of interest in foraging through social media.

There’s no better example of the home cook–turned–forager than Alexis Nikole Nelson, a TikTok star with more than 3 million followers. Her platform (@blackforager on Instagram) quickly grew into a community of people ANNY CHILDS

Foraged wild ingredients are smoked to build flavor for Danny Childs’ winter amaro. BELOW: Columbus, Ohio, forager Alexis Nikole Nelson has become a sensation on social media.

MARCH 2022

29

OBSESSIONS

Twila Cassadore, a member of the San Carlos Apache Tribe, documents and preserves foraging traditions within Indigenous communities in the American Southwest.

obsessed with her high-energy, contagiously excited explorations of the food growing all around her in suburban Columbus, Ohio. On her profile, you’ll find videos of her gathering and cracking hazelnuts to make knock-off Nutella, marinating hen-of-the-woods mushrooms to create mushroom “bacon,” and turning wild onions into a free-range onion dip.

“When I started posting about foraging at the beginning of the pandemic, people just started pouring into my account,” she says. “I was surprised because in the past, this was a hobby that was better at pushing people away than bringing them closer—being the kid eating food off the ground didn’t exactly make me cool. But here we are.”

Nelson first learned about foraging from her parents, who she says were the true revolutionaries as people of color out in nature in the 1960s. They instilled

in her a love of plants and cooking, which made her interest in foraging a natural next step. Nelson says it makes sense that the pandemic created such a fervor around foraging.

“I think it gave everyone a sense of ‘I need to be able to take care of myself,’” she says. “And at the same time, everyone realized they needed to get a hobby that was outside.”

But this impulse to get outside wasn’t just a response to the pandemic—it’s evolutionary.

“As humans, we’re inherently biophilic, so we feel better when we’re in nature,” explains Gina Rae La Cerva, author of Feasting Wild: In Search of the Last Untamed Food. “For most of human history, foraging was one of the main ways humans accessed food. We’ve evolved to want to do it.”

In her book, La Cerva explores the renewed interest that many Western

cultures have seen in foraging over the past two decades or so, offering a deeply researched and surprising exploration of the role of wild food throughout history and across the world. La Cerva also points to the monoculture system of agriculture that has largely taken over as an explanation for our renewed interest in foraging.

“When we go to the grocery store, we think we see a lot of variety because there are so many different options on the shelves,” she explains. “But we rely primarily on 30 plant species, and 60% of our diets are made up of rice, wheat, potatoes, and corn. Compare this to the fact that throughout history, humans have used 30,000 different plants for food or medicine.”

Among those trying to document and reintegrate foraging traditions is Twila Cassadore, an educator and member of the San Carlos Apache Tribe who focuses on foraging in native communities.

Through her work with the Traditional Western Apache Diet Project, Cassadore has interviewed over a hundred tribal elders, recording their knowledge of edible plants and animals across the Southwest so that it can be passed down.

“When I first started, I was like, ‘Why are we not teaching this more to the community?’” Cassadore says. “In the mid-’70s and ’80s, society labeled foraging as something that you only do when you’re poor, so I think among the tribal community, there’s a sense that we don’t have to do it anymore. It’s that Western colonized way of thinking that has transformed Indigenous ways of life.”

Cassadore approaches foraging with just as much focus on stewardship as on consumption and encourages all foragers to think about it as a way to build a relationship with a place. “I don’t think it’s a trend,” she says. “I think it’s a dormant instinct that is waking up, and that’s beautiful to see.”

FIND YOUR FORAGER

READ Alexis Nikole Nelson (@black forager on Instagram) recommends The Forager’s Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants by Samuel Thayer as a great primer on foraging in the U.S. La Cerva’s book, Feasting Wild: In Search of the Last

30

MARCH 2022

Untamed Food, is not a foraging guide but explores the practice throughout history. Read it for a roving international adventure that goes from Noma’s kitchen in Copenhagen to the Congo.

JOIN Local foraging-focused Facebook groups are an excellent way to

get dialed into what’s growing in your area in real time, says Nelson. Cassadore collaborates with the I-Collective, a community of Indigenous chefs, activists, and knowledge-keepers who are working to promote conversations about Indigenous food sovereignty. Subscribe to A Gathering Basket, their digital

cookbook series, for a multimedia exploration of Indigenous foods, traditions, and narratives.

WATCH Watch Gather, a documentary about native foodways that features Twila Cassadore and native communities working to reclaim food sovereignty.

PHOTOGRAPHY: SAMUEL MEADE

EXPERTS SHARE THEIR FAVORITE FORAGING RESOURCES

FIVE

HUNDRED

ONE THOUSAND THE

POUNDS

DEGREES

OF

REST OF THE WORLD

OF

STEEL.

INTENSE

DISAPPEARS.

DISCOVER THE NEW 2022 LINEUP THE HYBRID FIRE GRILL

H E AT.

K A L A M A ZO O G O U R M E T.CO M

Beyond the energy of Atlanta, charm of Savannah, and the rustic trails of the mountains lies a beautiful retreat among the Golden Isles ready to be explored. Set off for Jekyll Island and slowly bike along miles of paved paths, pause to take in the other-worldly seascapes of Driftwood Beach, or stroll under the oaks amidst Gilded Age cottages. Because no matter how you spend your time, there’s an only-in-Georgia moment waiting for you.

You’re ready for a Georgia getaway. Start yours at ExploreGeorgia.org.

Jekyll Island Club Resort |

@goanniewhere

HANDBOOK

THE TECHNIQUE

Lead the Whey Homemade ricotta takes spring cooking to the next level.

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: KATHLEEN COOK VARNER

By Josh Miller and Paige Grandjean

Just three ingredients and an easy technique produce fluffy, creamy fresh ricotta at home.

produced by JOSH MILLER

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

MARCH 2022

33

HANDBOOK

HOMEMADE RICOTTA to transform milk into cheese, and ricotta is a great first project,” says Betsy Devine, whose company, Salvatore BKLYN, keeps many of New York’s top restaurants stocked with fresh cheese.

But who has time to make fresh cheese? As it turns out, you probably do. It takes just a few hours (most of it hands-off) and only three ingredients to make two pounds of fresh ricotta that’s fluffier and more flavorful than any supermarket version.

While many recipes for homemade ricotta call for acidic ingredients such as vinegar or lemon juice to separate the curds from the whey, this recipe leans on buttermilk. “Harsh acids denature the milk proteins, creating a tough and gritty cheese,” says Food & Wine’s Paige Grandjean, who swears by this recipe. “The lactic acid naturally found in buttermilk is less acidic, so the curds form slowly, producing a light and velvety texture.”

With just three ingredients, it’s essential to source the best you can find. “Homemade ricotta should taste like the freshest full-fat milk,” Devine says. “When you use great milk, you’re on your way to a great ricotta.” Grandjean agrees, adding it’s best to avoid ultra-pasteurized dairy, which has been processed at a high heat: It will prevent the cheese curds from forming properly. While the ricotta is the star, shining in recipes like Parmesan-Herb Gnudi (p. 36), Palak “Paneer” with Pressed Fresh Ricotta (p. 38), and Honey-Ricotta Mousse with Strawberries (p. 39), don’t discard the leftover whey. It is a great substitute for all or some of the liquid in yeasted bread recipes, where it adds a pleasant tang to the loaf. “It effortlessly mimics the complex flavor of sourdough bread,” Grandjean says. “Perfect for slathering with fluffy ricotta.” —JOSH MILLER “IT’S A MAGICAL THING

34

MARCH 2022

1

2

HEAT MILK Slowly heat milk, buttermilk, and kosher salt to 180°F, stirring occasionally to prevent bottom from scorching.

COOL CURD LAYER Let stand, undisturbed, to let curds form and float to the surface, 2 to 3 hours. Curd will be surrounded by translucent yellow whey.

3

4

SET UP COLANDER Set a colander over a large, deep bowl; line with a double layer of damp cheesecloth, leaving a 6-inch overhang.

SCOOP CURDS Using a fine wire-mesh strainer, gently scoop curds in large pieces, and transfer to prepared colander.

5

6

DRAIN RICOTTA Drain ricotta at room temperature; reserve whey for another use, if desired.

TWIST RICOTTA Gather corners of cheesecloth, and lift ricotta.

Gently twist to squeeze out remaining clear whey.

Homemade Fresh Ricotta ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 10 MIN MAKES ABOUT 2 1/4 LB. (ABOUT 5 CUPS)

This easy homemade ricotta cheese recipe only requires three ingredients—milk, buttermilk, and salt—and yields a light, fluffy ricotta that’s a delicious blank canvas for sweet or savory recipes, or you can enjoy it as a decadent toast topper.

Source high-quality local dairy if possible for the richest flavor and best results.

1 gal. organic and/or grass-fed pasteurized whole milk 1 qt. organic and/or grass-fed buttermilk 1/2

Cook over medium, stirring occasionally, until mixture reaches 180°F on an instantread thermometer, 30 to 40 minutes.

Remove from heat; let stand, uncovered, at room temperature, until curds have formed and floated to the surface and are surrounded by clear whey, 2 to 3 hours.

2. Line a colander with a double layer of damp cheesecloth, leaving at least 6 inches of overhang on all sides. Set colander over a large bowl. Using a fine wiremesh strainer, gently scoop ricotta curds from stockpot, and place in colander.

Keep curd pieces as large as possible to avoid overworking, which can toughen the ricotta. Let ricotta drain at room temperature 30 minutes for a creamy texture or

up to 2 hours for a drier texture. Reserve whey in stockpot for another use.

3. Bring corners of cheesecloth together, and lift ricotta. Gently twist over colander to squeeze out any remaining clear whey from ricotta. Continue twisting until whey draining out becomes opaque and milky.

Reserve drained whey for another use.

Use ricotta immediately, or store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 week. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN MAKE AHEAD Ricotta can be made up to 1

week ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator.

tsp. kosher salt

1. Stir together milk, buttermilk, and salt in a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot.

BETTER WITH BUTTERMILK While pro cheesemakers rely on rennet, an enzyme used in commericial cheesemaking, most homemade ricotta recipes call for acidic lemon juice to help form the curds, which can turn tight and rubbery. Here, buttermilk gently transforms the milk into curds and whey—and yields more than double the ricotta as compared to recipes that use lemon juice.

HANDBOOK ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 50 MIN, PLUS 12 HR REFRIGERATION; SERVES 6 TO 8

1/2

cup all-purpose flour (about 2 1/8 oz.)

4 cups fine semolina flour (such as Caputo), plus more for dusting 4 qt. water

These savory, cheesy, herb-flecked Italian dumplings make a simple and elegant early spring dinner. The gnudi are buried in semolina flour overnight, allowing a thin skin to form, which helps them hold their shape while cooking.

1 lb. Homemade Fresh Ricotta (recipe p. 35) or store-bought fresh ricotta, drained 2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated with a Microplane (about 1 1/4 cups) 1/2

cup finely chopped mixed fresh herbs (such as chives, parsley, basil, and tarragon), plus more for garnish

2 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 1/4

1/4

36

cup plus 1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided tsp. ground nutmeg

MARCH 2022

Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling Flaky sea salt, for garnish 1. Stir together ricotta cheese, ParmigianoReggiano, chopped herbs, eggs, egg yolk, 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl until well combined. Stir in allpurpose flour until just incorporated.

Transfer dough to a large ziplock plastic bag with a 1-inch hole cut in one corner.

2. Sprinkle 2 cups semolina on a large rimmed baking sheet. Pipe dough into 8 (12-inch-long, 1-inch-thick) logs onto semolina on baking sheet. Using scissors, cut each log crosswise into 5 (about 2 1/2-inchlong) dumplings; arrange dumplings 1/2 inch apart. Cover dumplings with remaining 2 cups semolina, ensuring each dumpling is completely buried. Chill, uncovered, until dumplings form a thin skin, at least 12 hours or up to 72 hours.

3. Remove dumplings from refrigerator, and let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot over medium-high.

Stir in remaining 1/4 cup kosher salt.

4. Lift half of dumplings from semolina, and dust off excess. Add dumplings to boiling water, and reduce heat to mediumlow. Adjust heat as needed to maintain a low simmer. Cook dumplings until set, puffed, and tender, 3 to 4 minutes. (Continue cooking dumplings for 30 to 45 seconds after they float to the surface.)

5. Using a spider or large slotted spoon, transfer dumplings to serving bowls. Drizzle with olive oil; garnish with flaky sea salt and additional chopped fresh herbs.

Serve immediately. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with remaining dumplings. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN MAKE AHEAD Shaped dumplings can be

refrigerated up to 2 days before cooking.

WINE Crisp, herbal Italian white: 2020 La

Spinetta Toscana Vermentino

photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

FOOD STYLING: KATHLEEN COOK VARNER; PROP STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY

Parmesan-Herb Gnudi

When your allergies are out of control, one sneeze can rock the boat.

Works fast* and

stays strong day after day.

*Starts working at hour 1. Use only as directed.

Stick with the consistent allergy relief of ZYRTEC® ZYRTEC® starts working hard at hour one.

It works twice as hard when you take it again the next day and stays strong day after day.

Scan to get closer to allergy relief

©J&JCI 2022

HANDBOOK

1. Place a 10-inch square of damp doublelined cheesecloth on a clean work surface. Spoon ricotta into center of square.

Using your hands, press to shape ricotta into a 5-inch square. Wrap cheesecloth tightly around ricotta, and press to form a 51/2-inch square (about 3/4 inch thick).

Place wrapped ricotta on a double layer of paper towels. Top with a double layer of paper towels, and weight with a large cast-iron skillet (6 to 8 pounds). Let stand until paneer is firm and set, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours, changing out paper towels after 45 minutes.

2. Unwrap ricotta, and cut into 3/4-inch squares, wiping knife clean after each slice. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium; add ghee. Fry ricotta cubes, flipping once, until lightly browned on 2 opposite sides, 3 to 5 minutes total.

Transfer to a plate; set aside.

3. Return same skillet with ghee to heat over medium. Add onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, ginger, serrano, garam masala, and cayenne. Cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Gradually add spinach. Cook, stirring often, until wilted, 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove from heat.

Palak “Paneer” with Pressed Fresh Ricotta ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 45 MIN SERVES 4

1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger 1 medium-size fresh serrano chile, stemmed and chopped 1 tsp. garam masala

A little extra hands-off pressing time firms up fresh ricotta into a block that can be cut into cubes just like paneer, the popular Indian cheese. Fried in ghee and heated through in a puree of chile- and gingerspiked spinach and cilantro, the crispy, cheesy cubes make this dish a meal.

1 lb. Homemade Fresh Ricotta (recipe p. 35) or store-bought fresh ricotta, drained 2 Tbsp. ghee 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped

38

MARCH 2022

1/4

tsp. cayenne pepper

1 lb. baby spinach, roughly chopped 1 cup firmly packed fresh cilantro leaves and stems (about 2 oz.), plus additional cilantro leaves for garnish 1/2

cup water

1/4

cup heavy cream or plain yogurt

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 1/2

tsp. kasoori methi (dried fenugreek leaves), optional Basmati rice or flatbread, for serving

4. Transfer spinach mixture to a blender; add cilantro leaves and stems and 1/2 cup water. Remove insert from blender lid, and cover with a kitchen towel. Process until mixture forms a coarse paste, 5 to 10 seconds. Return mixture to skillet over low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened to desired consistency, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in cream, salt, and kasoori methi, if using. Add ricotta cubes. Cover and cook until ricotta is heated through, about 2 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with cilantro leaves, and serve with basmati rice or flatbread.

—PAIGE GRANDJEAN MAKE AHEAD Ricotta can be prepared

through step 1, removed from cheesecloth, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerated up to 2 days.

WINE Earthy French red: 2019 Bernard

Baudry Le Domaine Chinon NOTE Find kasoori methi at South Asian

markets or online at desiclik.com.

Honey-Ricotta Mousse with Strawberries ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN SERVES 4 TO 6

Freshly made ricotta adds complexity to this velvety-smooth, berry-topped mousse. Use a mild clover honey to complement the subtle flavor of the ricotta.

1 lb. Homemade Fresh Ricotta (recipe p. 35) or store-bought fresh ricotta, drained 2 Tbsp. clover honey, plus more for drizzling 1 1/2 tsp. vanilla bean paste or extract Pinch of kosher salt 1 cup heavy cream Toasted almond slices, sliced fresh strawberries, and fresh mint leaves, for garnish 1. Process ricotta, honey, vanilla bean paste, and salt in a food processor until very smooth, about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed.

2. Whip heavy cream in a large bowl until stiff peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Add ricotta mixture, and gently whisk to combine. Using a rubber spatula, fold mixture until evenly incorporated, 3 to 5 times.

Divide mixture evenly among 4 glasses or bowls. Cover and refrigerate until firm and set, at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

3. Garnish mousse with toasted almond slices, sliced fresh strawberries, mint leaves, and a drizzle of honey. Serve immediately. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN MAKE AHEAD Prepared mousse can be

covered and refrigerated up to 1 day.

MARCH 2022

39

HANDBOOK MAD GENIUS TIPS

Spring Awakenings Refresh weeknight dinners with tender baby vegetables. spring vegetables that pop up in the market. Unlike their larger, late-season siblings, baby veggies are supremely quick to cook and often just need a scrub and slice to be enjoyed raw. But when it comes to cooking, the ideal recipes coax out bright spring flavor and allow the vegetables to shine. Here are five recipes that will awaken your table and your palate. —JUSTIN CHAPPLE I LOVE THE FIRST

TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 4

Creamy new potatoes add substance to this quick one-pan dinner of tender shrimp, fresh shelling peas, and dill, which come together in a sweet and buttery broth laced with cream.

5 cups water 2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste 8 oz. baby gold potatoes, cut into 1/4 -inch-thick slices (about 1 3/4 cups) 8 oz. shelled fresh or frozen English peas (about 1 1/2 cups) 1/4

cup unsalted butter

1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium shallot, finely chopped (about 1/3 cup)

2. Wipe skillet dry using paper towels. Add butter and oil to skillet; cook over medium-high until butter is melted. Add shallot, chile, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring often, until mixture is fragrant and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine; cook, stirring occasionally, until wine is almost completely reduced, about 2 minutes.

1/4

cup heavy cream

3. Add shrimp to skillet in a single layer; sprinkle with black pepper and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, undisturbed, until shrimp are partially opaque, about 2 minutes. Flip shrimp, and immediately add broth and potatoes to skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium-high; simmer, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are almost cooked through, about 1 minute.

Add peas and cream; cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat. Season with additional salt and black pepper to taste. Sprinkle with dill, and serve with crusty bread.

1/3

cup chopped fresh dill

WINE Crisp, steely California Chardonnay:

Crusty bread, for serving

2020 Balletto Vineyards Teresa’s Unoaked

1 medium-size fresh Fresno chile, stemmed, seeded (if desired), and finely chopped (about 2 Tbsp.)

4 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 4 tsp.)

1/3

cup dry white wine

12 oz. peeled and deveined tail-on raw large shrimp 1/4

tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste

1 cup lower-sodium chicken broth

40

1. Bring 5 cups water to a boil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high. Stir in 2 tablespoons salt. Add potatoes; cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Add peas to boiling water; cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat.

Drain peas in a colander; rinse under cold water until cool to the touch, about 15 seconds. Set aside.

MARCH 2022

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: KATHLEEN COOK VARNER

Buttery Shrimp with Peas and Potatoes

photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

Cut the baby potatoes into uniform slices to guarantee even cooking.

MARCH 2022

41

HANDBOOK

Asparagus and Spring Onion Salad with Seven-Minute Eggs ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 25 MIN SERVES 4

Spring onions are the sweetest of the year, and they play well in this salad with firstof-the-season asparagus and tender lettuces. Soy and ginger team up with sherry vinegar in the tangy dressing that’s perfect with the rich, jammy egg yolks. If spring onions aren’t available, you can substitute scallions.

2 qt. water 2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 4 large eggs 1 lb. thin to medium asparagus, trimmed and halved crosswise 2 small spring onions (about 3 oz.), greens trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise (about 1/2 cup), bulbs thinly sliced lengthwise (about 1/2 cup), divided 1/4

cup plus 2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 2 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger 2 tsp. soy sauce 3 oz. tender spring lettuces, roughly torn if large (about 6 loosely packed cups) Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish Whipped feta, ricotta, or labneh, for serving (optional) 1. Fill a large bowl with ice water; set aside. Bring 2 quarts water to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high. Stir in salt. Carefully add eggs; cook 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to ice water in bowl.

2. Add asparagus to boiling water; cook over medium-high, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer asparagus to ice water with eggs; let cool 3 minutes. Remove eggs, and peel; cut in half lengthwise, and set eggs aside. Drain asparagus, and pat dry; set asparagus aside.

3. Whisk together spring onion greens, oil, vinegar, ginger, and soy sauce in a medium bowl. Toss together spring onion bulbs, spring lettuces, asparagus, and half of dressing (about 1/2 cup) in a large bowl. Season with additional salt to taste.

Top salad with jammy eggs, and garnish with sesame seeds. Serve salad over whipped cheese, if desired. Serve with remaining dressing.

WINE Medium-bodied French rosé: 2020

Domaine de Fondrèche Ventoux

42

MARCH 2022

The slightly runny yolks from the jammy eggs add a luxurious, velvety texture to this punchy, bright salad.

Carrot and Spring Onion Toad-in-the-Hole

4 (1-oz.) breakfast sausage links

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN

2 tsp. kosher salt, divided

SERVES 4

1 tsp. black pepper, divided

The traditional English toad-in-the-hole consists of whole sausages cooked in an egg-and-flour batter. This recipe delivers a taste of the classic but stars tender baby carrots and spring onions for a flavorful spring twist.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 6 oz. small multicolored carrots (about 10 carrots), trimmed 6 oz. small spring onions (about 4 onions), green parts cut into 3-inch pieces and bulbs halved lengthwise

1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme

3 large eggs 3/4

cup whole milk Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

3/4

cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/4 oz.)

Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Combine oil and butter in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, and heat in preheated oven 10 minutes. Carefully remove hot skillet from oven. Add carrots, spring onion greens and bulbs, sausage links, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper to skillet, and toss to coat. Spread mixture in an even layer.

Roast at 425°F until vegetables and sausages are sizzling and just starting to brown, about 8 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, whisk together eggs, milk, nutmeg, remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a medium bowl until well combined. Add flour, and whisk until batter is very smooth.

3. Remove skillet from oven, and transfer vegetables and sausages to a plate. Do not wipe skillet clean. Immediately pour batter into hot skillet, and quickly arrange vegetables and sausages on top, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Bake at 425°F until puffed, golden brown on edges, and set in center, 22 to 28 minutes. Remove from oven. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

WINE Lively, juicy sparkling wine: NV

Mionetto Prosecco Brut

Working fast is the key to this spring showstopper. Roast the sausage and vegetables first to make the final assembly easy.

MARCH 2022

43

HANDBOOK

Soak sliced radishes and turnips in ice water to make them ultra-crunchy and crisp.

Radish Tartines with Green Butter

1 small garlic clove, finely grated (about 1/4 tsp.)

TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 4

6 (3/4 -inch-thick) soft rustic bread slices (about 1 1/4 oz. each), lightly toasted

Radish and turnip greens whipped with sweet butter, garlic, and lemon zest create the perfect silky spread for these spring tartines. Topped with spicy, paper-thin radishes and crunchy sea salt, these make a great appetizer or light lunch.

8 medium-size mixed radishes (such as Easter egg, black, watermelon, and Purple Ninja) with tops (about 12 oz.)

2 medium-size Japanese turnips with tops (about 2 1/2 oz.)

1/2

cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), preferably grass-fed, at room temperature

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving 1/2

1/4

44

tsp. flaky sea salt, plus more to taste tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste

MARCH 2022

Crushed red pepper, for garnish 1. Remove greens from radishes and turnips; reserve about 1 firmly packed cup greens (about 1 1/2 ounces radish greens and 1/2 ounce turnip greens). Wash greens, and pat dry. Set aside.

2. Using a mandoline, very thinly slice radishes and turnips (about 1/16 inch thick); transfer to a medium bowl filled with ice water. Let soak 10 minutes. Drain well, and pat dry.

3. While radishes and turnips soak, place reserved 1 cup greens, butter, lemon zest, salt, black pepper, and garlic in a food processor. Process until butter is green and mostly smooth, about 1 minute, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl. Season with additional salt and black pepper to taste.

4. Spread green butter evenly over 1 side of toasted bread slices (about 2 tablespoons each). Top with sliced radishes and turnips. Season with additional salt to taste. Garnish with crushed red pepper, and serve with lemon wedges.

MAKE AHEAD Butter can be made up to 2

days ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator.

WINE Grassy, citrusy New Zealand

Sauvignon Blanc: 2020 Craggy Range Te Muna Road

Mississippi’s healthy dining destinations will bless your heart.

(No sarcasm intended. ) Kale, acai, and quinoa may not sound like traditional Southern fare, but times are changing. In Mississippi, you’ll find a new style of comfort food that not only tastes amazing, but fits with your healthy lifestyle. Learn more at VisitMississippi.org/HealthyDining. #WanderMS #VisitMSResponsibly

Katie Dixon | Birdie’s Nourished Kitchen | Jackson, Mississippi

HANDBOOK

Toss the rhubarb with sugar prior to baking to begin to soften the fibrous stalks.

Rhubarb Coffee Cake

1 tsp. kosher salt

ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 55 MIN

1 tsp. baking powder

SERVES 10 TO 12

This streusel-topped cake is a standout.

With a tender, springy crumb, it’s the perfect match for the rosy, tart rhubarb.

The addition of buttermilk lends tanginess and richness to this cake batter.

STREUSEL 3/4

cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/4 oz.)

3/4

cup packed light brown sugar

1 tsp. ground cinnamon 3/4

tsp. kosher salt

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter (3 oz.), chilled and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces CAKE

1 1/2 lb. 10- to 12-inch-long rhubarb stalks (about 8 stalks), halved lengthwise if thick 1 3/4 cups granulated sugar, divided 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (about 10 5/8 oz.), plus more for dusting

46

MARCH 2022

3/4

tsp. baking soda

1/2

cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), at room temperature, plus more for greasing

2 large eggs 1 1/4 cups buttermilk 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 1. Make the streusel: Stir together flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter; using fingers, work butter into flour mixture until completely incorporated and mixture clumps together. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use or up to overnight (12 hours).

2. Make the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 13- x 9-inch baking pan or dish with butter. Dust pan with flour, and shake out excess. Place rhubarb on a rimmed baking sheet, and sprinkle with 1/4 cup granulated sugar; toss to coat. Let stand, tossing occasionally, until sugar is mostly dissolved, 20 to 30 minutes.

3. Whisk together flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in a medium bowl; set aside. Beat butter and remaining 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar with a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed. With mixer running on medium speed, add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Reduce mixer speed to low, and beat in buttermilk and vanilla. With mixer running on low speed, gradually add flour mixture, beating until just incorporated, about 1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as needed.

4. Transfer batter to prepared pan, and spread evenly. Arrange rhubarb lengthwise in a single layer on top of batter.

Sprinkle with streusel. Bake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 55 minutes to 1 hour and 5 minutes. Remove from oven; let cake cool in pan on a wire rack at least 20 minutes or up to 6 hours. Serve warm, or let cool completely.

Take Root Hetal Vasavada adds depth to carrot cake with cardamom, brown butter, and roasted pistachios.

48

MARCH 2022

photography by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: KATHLEEN COOK VARNER

HANDBOOK

EASY BAKES

Spiced Carrot Cake with Brown Butter Frosting ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR SERVES 12

A warming blend of cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg spices up Hetal Vasavada’s tender, moist carrot cake studded with golden raisins and crunchy pistachios. Brown butter ghee does double duty in this recipe: It enriches and flavors the cake batter, while the caramelized milk fat left over from making it adds a nutty flavor to the traditional cream cheese frosting.

CAKE

1 cup plus 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter (11 oz.)

Cooking spray 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 1/2 Tbsp. grated orange zest 4 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon 1 Tbsp. ground cardamom 2 tsp. ground ginger 1/2

tsp. ground nutmeg

4 1/2 cups shredded peeled carrots (from 1 lb. carrots) 1 1/4 cups unsalted roasted pistachios, coarsely chopped 1/2

cup golden raisins

2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour (about 11 3/8 oz.)

2 1/2 tsp. baking powder 1/2

tsp. baking soda

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

FROSTING

1 cup unsalted butter (8 oz.), at room temperature 4 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar (about 10 oz.)

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

Finely chopped pistachios and shredded carrots, for garnish 1. Make the cake: Melt butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over mediumhigh, stirring often; gently simmer butter until white milk solids separate from butterfat, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring constantly, until butter is golden brown and spoon is covered in flecks of caramelized milk solids, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Line a fine wire-mesh strainer with 3 layers of cheesecloth, and place strainer over a heatproof container. Pour melted butter through strainer and into container.

Reserve caramelized milk fat (about 1 teaspoon), and set aside. Let strained ghee cool completely at room temperature, about 1 hour.

2. Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat a 13- x 9-inch baking pan with cooking spray; set aside. Combine brown sugar and orange zest in a large bowl. Rub orange zest into sugar using your fingers. Add eggs, egg yolk, vanilla, cinnamon, cardamom,

ginger, nutmeg, and cooled brown butter ghee. Beat with an electric mixer on high speed until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.

Fold in shredded carrots, pistachios, and raisins until well combined. Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl until combined. Fold flour mixture into carrot mixture, stirring until just combined. Pour batter into prepared pan; spread in an even layer.

3. Bake carrot cake in preheated oven until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes.

Remove from oven. Let cool completely in pan, about 1 hour.

4. Meanwhile, make the frosting: Beat butter, cream cheese, vanilla, and reserved caramelized milk fat with a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium-high speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Reduce mixer speed to low; gradually beat in powdered sugar until combined. Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.

5. Spread frosting onto cooled cake in an even layer. Garnish with finely chopped pistachios and shredded carrots, if desired. —HETAL VASAVADA MAKE AHEAD Frosting can be made up to

3 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator; let come to room temperature before using.

MARCH 2022

49

ADVERTISEMENT

REFRESH YOUR MENU Expand your rice horizons with RiceSelect® Jasmati® White Rice, perfect for pairing with wholesome dishes packed with global flavors.

GINGER CHICKEN WITH BROCCOLI Aromatic Jasmati® rice pairs beautifully with this flavorful dish.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS 1

cup uncooked RiceSelect® Jasmati® White Rice

2

tbsp olive oil, divided

1

lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces

3

cups broccoli florets

2

tbsp fresh ginger, grated

4

cloves garlic, minced

¼

cup chicken broth

2

tsp arrowroot powder

1

tbsp soy sauce

1

tbsp oyster sauce

1

tsp sesame oil

DIRECTIONS Step 1 In a medium saucepan, prepare rice according to package directions.

Step 2 In a Dutch oven over medium heat, add 1 tbsp oil. Once warmed, add the chicken and cook until golden brown, about 4-6 mins, until internal temperature reaches 165°F. Place on a plate and set aside.

Step 3 Add 1 tbsp oil to the pan. Cook broccoli until tender, about 3-5 mins. Add ginger and garlic, cook until fragrant, about 1-2 mins.

Step 4 Add chicken back to pan and cook 2-4 mins.

Step 5 In a small bowl, whisk together broth and arrowroot. Add soy sauce, oyster sauce, and sesame oil. Pour into chicken mixture and stir to coat. Cook until thickened.

S

is all about trying new flavors and exploring light, refreshing recipes that celebrate the arrival of warm, sunny days. Inspired by Thai jasmine rice, RiceSelect® Jasmati® White Rice is subtly fragrant and has an exquisite texture for elevating meals. It cooks up with beautifully separated and tender long grains ideal for serving stir-fries, curries, or rice puddings. It’s also Non-GMO Project Verified.

Whether you’re looking for an easy dinner or a tasty lunch bowl, try this delicious recipe for Ginger Chicken with Broccoli, ready in under 30 minutes. Infused with ginger and garlic, it’s sweet, savory, and perfect for savoring warm weather.

PRING COOKING

For more recipes and signature products, visit RiceSelect.com.

Step 6 Serve over rice.

Tip: Cut the broccoli florets and chicken to roughly the same size so it all cooks evenly.

HANDBOOK

Easy, Cheesy At Kimika in New York City, Italian meets Japanese in this crispy, gooey lasagna. and golden brown, the lasagna at Kimika, a lively restaurant nestled between Little Italy and Chinatown in Manhattan, is full of surprises. It arrives at the table still piping hot from the oven with a jaw-dropping cheese pull. A layer of provolone cheese tempers the heat of what lies beneath: a deliciously piquant tomato sauce made with dashi, kimchi, ssamjang, and gochujang and into which ground pork, coriander, and garlic have been stirred. But the greatest aha! moment comes when your fork spears a tubular Korean rice cake, standing in here for lasagna noodles, bringing a chewy-tender bite to this decadent casserole. The Crispy Rice Cake Lasagna (recipe opposite) is the invention of chef Christine Lau, a Chinese American chef born in Oakland, California, and it leans into Kimika’s emphasis on Itameshi, the intersection of Italian and Japanese cuisines popular in Japan. A single large baking dish works well to serve a crowd at home, or you can divide the mixture into smaller gratin dishes before baking to make luxurious individual portions. —KELSEY YOUNGMAN BAKED UNTIL BUBBLING RECIPE FROM

KIMIKA CHRISTINE LAU, NEW YORK CITY

52

MARCH 2022

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

MOST WANTED

small skillet over medium, stirring often, until seeds are toasted and aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; let stand at room temperature until toasted seeds have cooled completely, 2 to 3 minutes. Grind toasted seeds in a spice grinder until finely ground, 30 to 45 seconds. Stir together ground seeds, ground pork, black pepper, sugar, salt, garlic, and crushed red pepper in a medium bowl until combined. Add wine, and stir until well combined.

2. Make the lasagna: Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a shallow saucepan over medium-low. Add sweet Italian sausage; cook, stirring constantly using a whisk, until mostly cooked, 3 to 4 minutes.

(Using a whisk is a chef’s trick to break up chunks of meat as it cooks. The sausage should not get any color or char.) Stir in gochujang; cook, stirring constantly using whisk, until sausage is completely cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer sausage mixture to a large heatproof bowl. Set aside until ready to use.

3. Heat remaining 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Working in 2 batches if needed, add rice cakes to skillet; cook, flipping occasionally, until cakes are crispy on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes.

Transfer rice cakes to a plate lined with paper towels, reserving oil in skillet.

Crispy Rice Cake Lasagna TOTAL 50 MIN; SERVES 6

Chewy, tender rice cakes are coated with a spicy sauce of sweet Italian sausage, gochujang, ssamjang, and kimchi. A caramelized, bubbly, stringy provolone topping helps temper the heat. Find tubular Korean rice cakes, which are sold partially cooked and vacuum-sealed, in the freezer section at Korean markets or on Amazon.

SWEET ITALIAN SAUSAGE

1 tsp. fennel seeds 1/4

tsp. coriander seeds

1 lb. ground pork 1 1/2 tsp. black pepper 1 1/2 tsp. granulated sugar 1

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, minced (1 1/2 tsp.)

1/4

tsp. crushed red pepper

1/4

cup red wine

LASAGNA 1/2

cup vegetable oil, divided

1 3/4 cups gochujang 2 lb. Korean rice cakes (tubular shape) 2 cups dashi 1/4

cup tomato sauce

1 Tbsp. ssamjang 1 Tbsp. sesame oil 2 cups kimchi, drained (liquid reserved) and chopped 4 cups thinly sliced scallions (from 10 large scallions) 1/2

cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), cut into 1/2 -inch pieces

1 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated (about 1/4 cup) 12 oz. provolone cheese, shredded (about 3 cups) 1. Make the sweet Italian sausage: Cook fennel seeds and coriander seeds in a

4. Preheat oven to broil with rack about 6 inches from heat. Add dashi, tomato sauce, ssamjang, sesame oil, and reserved kimchi liquid to reserved vegetable oil in skillet. Bring mixture to a boil over medium-high. Boil, stirring occasionally, until mixture is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add crispy rice cakes and chopped kimchi to mixture, and gently stir to combine. Reduce heat to mediumlow; stir in scallions, butter, and Parmesan. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce is emulsified, turns a creamy orange color, and coats rice cakes, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

5. Transfer rice cake mixture to reserved pork mixture in bowl; gently stir until well combined. Transfer mixture to an ungreased 13- x 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish; sprinkle evenly with provolone. Broil in preheated oven until provolone is melted and golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes.

Serve immediately. —CHRISTINE LAU, KIMIKA, NEW YORK CITY MAKE AHEAD Sweet Italian sausage can

be made up to 3 days ahead and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator.

WINE Fruit-forward, spicy Zinfandel: 2019

Marietta Cellars Román

MARCH 2022

53

Meet The Makers Behind The Magic Explore world-class wine and exceptional cuisine all in the heart of California’s beautiful Sonoma County.

Join top farmers, growers, makers, and chefs for a celebratory weekend you won’t soon forget.

May 20th-22nd, 2022 Enjoy culinary demos, wine seminars, luxe VIP benefits, and so much more.

Visit healdsburgwineandfood.com for tickets.

Maneet Chauhan

Nyesha Arrington

Tim Love

Stephanie Izard

Justin Chapple

SUPPORTING FARM WORKERS

BOTTLE SERVICE W H AT TO D R I N K N O W

Lava for the Win Why volcanic wines are so distinctive

FOOD STYLING: MELISSA GRAY; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS

By Ray Isle

produced by RAY ISLE

photography by JENNIFER CAUSEY

MARCH 2022

55

BOTTLE SERVICE

O

it seems a little nuts to make wine on the slopes of a volcano. After all, Sicily’s Mount Etna has erupted four times in the past 10 years; the Cumbre Vieja volcano in Spain’s Canary Islands has been spewing lava and ash for two months straight as I write this, damaging vineyards on the island of La Palma as it does. Pliny the Elder, who witnessed the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 B.C., wrote, “As to the wines of Pompeii, they [arrive] at their full perfection in 10 years.” Likely some of the citizens of that unfortunate town were enjoying a well-aged glass or two even as volcanic ash began to darken the sky.

So why not plant your vines on a nice, flat, no-magma-aroundhere-thank-you stretch of land instead? The thing is, volcanic soils seem to help impart a distinctive character to wine, both red and white, not found in other places. Water drains through volcanic soil easily; the soil also isn’t usually very fertile and is high in mineral content. The result tends to be smaller, higher-acid, less effusively ripe fruit, producing taut, savory wines, concentrated in flavor but rarely heavy or dense—in my mind, ideal for the cool early days of spring.

Of course, not all volcanic soils are found on active volcanoes.

Conveniently—or thankfully—volcanoes that went extinct millions of years ago can be just as helpful. So in addition to wines from Etna and the Canaries, look to regions like Soave in Northern Italy, Santorini in Greece, parts of Oregon’s Willamette Valley and California’s Napa Valley, and Lake County in California. And, of course, there’s Campania in Italy, where you can even visit Pompeii and try the wines in situ if you like. I mean, so what if Vesuvius is still considered an active volcano, right?

N SOME LEVEL,

R E D

2019 FRONTÓN DE ORO TINTO TRADICIONAL ($17) Light on the palate and full of savory spice—bay and black pepper—and lively red fruit, this is a terrific intro to the wines of the Canary Islands.

2018 BERMEJO LISTÁN NEGRO ($23) Give this Canary Islands red a little air to begin with, to let its slightly raw, funky aromas mellow.

Then enjoy its subtle tannins and smoky, stony, black-cherry flavors.

2019 MASTROBERARDINO LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ($23)

2019 PLANETA ETNA ROSSO ($30) This lightly smoky red, transparent ruby in hue and filled with bright, red-berry flavors, comes from vines planted 800 meters up on the north side of Mount Etna.

2018 ELENA FUCCI TITOLO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE ($34) If there’s an aroma that could be called floral iron, then this gorgeous Southern Italian red has it, along with blackberry fruit and terrific intensity.

2017 VALLANA BOCA ($34)

This light, savory red, made from the local Piedirosso grape, comes from vineyards directly below Mount Vesuvius.

The tiny Boca DOC in Northern Italy lies on the site of a long-extinct volcano and produces reds like this one: earthy, with gripping tannins and dark cherry fruit.

2019 TENUTA DELLE TERRE NERE ETNA ROSSO ($25)

2019 OBSIDIAN RIDGE CABERNET SAUVIGNON ($38)

Brimming with the aromas and flavors of wild strawberries, this Etna Rosso is as dry as volcanic rock and finishes on fine, elegant tannins.

This rich, dark-fruited Cabernet’s name is justified: Chunks of obsidian turn up regularly in the Lake County vineyard where it’s from.

2019 CRISTOM JESSIE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR ($75) The volcanic basalt soils of Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills AVA contribute to the character of this silky Pinot, with its cherry liqueur and tea leaf notes.

56

MARCH 2022

W H I T E

2020 CASA D’AMBRA ISCHIA BIANCO ($16) This white from Italy’s Campania region, made from the local Forastera and Biancolella varieties, offers refreshingly brisk melon, lime, and honeysuckle flavors.

2020 DAVID PAIGE RPG VINEYARD PINOT BLANC ($28)

2019 ALTA MORA ETNA BIANCO ($33)

If you like this lightly peppery, floral white from top Oregon winemaker David Paige, seek out the excellent Pinot Noirs he’s making as well.

Initially, this Etna white feels reserved in a smoky-stony way, but then the vivid pineappleorange fruit notes seem to fan out almost like a peacock’s tail.

2020 SANTO SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO ($27)

2019 INAMA FOSCARINO SOAVE CLASSICO ($28)

2019 PIEROPAN CALVARINO SOAVE CLASSICO ($40)

As bracing as sea spray, Santo’s Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini suggests lemon and grapefruit peel, with a faint smoky note.

What’s not to love in this aromatic, old-vine Soave?

It’s bright and vivid, full of lively quince flavors and ending on crushed-rock mineral notes.

Winemaker Dario Pieropan crafts this stony, intense, ageworthy white from vines in his family’s hillside Calvarino vineyard.

2019 GAI’A THALASSITIS SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO ($43) This complex, chalky white is austere the same beautiful way that Santorini’s whitewashed Cycladic architecture is.

MARCH 2022

57

BOTTLE SERVICE

“T

C O C K TA I L H O U R

Making a Stir Pro tips for making a proper stirred cocktail

By Betsy Andrews

58

MARCH 2022

was an emotional roller coaster. I knew all eyes were on us, and I wanted everything to be perfect,” says Shannon Tebay, the first woman to be appointed head bartender of the Savoy Hotel’s legendary American Bar in nearly 100 years and the first head bartender ever from the States. When Tebay and staff donned their white jackets last October, London’s oldest cocktail den had been shuttered by COVID-19 for over a year. “As soon as guests walked in, and Jon Nickoll sat at the piano and started playing ‘Fly Me to the Moon,’ I knew we were going to have a good night.”

For Tebay’s guests, the assurance of a good night came when she grabbed one of the 128-year-old haunt’s mixing glasses and stirred them a cocktail. The tinkling of her barspoon, the pinging of the ice, the subtle splash of the silky elixir as she strained it into a glass—that’s what customers came for: a crystal-clear sip of history and the heady promise of what lies ahead, all waylaid plans come back to life now with richer, more careful intention.

Though Harry Craddock filled his 1930 The Savoy Cocktail Book with shaken martinis, it is not Craddock but Ada Coleman, the head bartender he replaced, who is Tebay’s true predecessor. The only other woman to oversee the American Bar, Coleman held the rail from 1903 until 1925. She was famed for the Hanky Panky cocktail. Gin, sweet vermouth, and a bitter wisp of Fernet-Branca, that big-hearted yet balanced libation came together in a few judicious stirs.

Perhaps that’s the type of drink our current era calls for: less noise, more clarity. Forget the elbows-out agitation and the racket of cubes against tin. Instead of the showy clatter of shakers, let’s embrace the meditative music of the mixing glass. With Tebay’s step-bystep guidance, let’s fix ourselves a proper stirred cocktail.

HE FIRST DAY OF SERVICE

PROMOTION

NEWS, UPDATES, EVENTS, AND MORE FROM FOOD & WINE

DISCOVER THE COVE AT ATLANTIS PARADISE ISLAND The Cove, Atlantis Paradise Island’s luxury hotel, is nestled between two white-sand beaches and offers elegant suites, an adults-only pool, exceptional cuisine, and access to Atlantis’ Aquaventure. The Atlantis Casino, Mandara Spa, Ocean Club golf, shopping, and live entertainment are exceptional experiences guests will love to discover.

CoveAtlantis.com/FW

SCOTTSDALE DINING WITH A VIEW With more than 330 days of sunshine annually, it’s no wonder dining al fresco is a favorite pastime in Scottsdale! From urban bistros to mountainside retreats, discover Scottsdale restaurant patios where the views are as memorable as the cuisine.

ExperienceScottsdale.com

RAISE THE BAR ON YOUR CULINARY CREATIONS Cook restaurant worthy dishes at home with RiceSelect® Royal Blend® Rice. This versatile blend of grains packs an enchanting aroma and sophisticated textures that’ll inspire your next unforgettable culinary creation. Shop now and get creative: riceselect.com/products

BRAVO’S TOP CHEF IS BACK FOR A NEW SEASON The Emmy- and James Beard Award-winning series heads to Houston with 15 chefs vying for the title.

Padma, Tom, and Gail return to judge the battle for culinary supremacy. New season premieres Thursday, March 3rd at 8/7c. Learn more at BravoTV.com/TopChef.

TO EXPLORE MORE, VISIT FOODANDWINE.COM/PROMO

BOTTLE SERVICE

The Monarch TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1

Pamplemousse liqueur lends mellow citrus flavor that highlights the grapefruit notes in Lillet Rosé in this martini-style stirred drink. The gin adds a pleasant dryness here without its usual punch, tempered by those fruitier additions.

1/4

cup (2 oz.) dry gin

2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) Lillet Rosé 1 1/2 tsp. (1/4 oz.) pamplemousse liqueur 1 dash Peychaud’s bitters Ice cubes 1 grapefruit peel twist Pour gin, Lillet Rosé, pamplemousse liqueur, and bitters in a mixing glass; fill mixing glass nearly to the top with ice cubes. Stir mixture until well combined, chilled, and diluted, about 40 seconds. Pour mixture through a Hawthorne strainer into a martini glass.

Garnish with grapefruit peel twist, and serve. —SHANNON TEBAY, AMERICAN BAR, SAVOY HOTEL, LONDON

STIRRING SAVVY 1. BUILD “I find it more fulfilling to use as few ingredients as possible,” says Tebay. She measures out ingredients from smallest to largest quantities, which usually means least to most expensive, too.

“If you mess up along the way, you’re throwing out less money,” she says. And her mixing glass of choice is a regular pint glass.

(There’s less breakage, and if you do break one, so what?)

60

MARCH 2022

2. ICE

3. STIR

4. TASTE

5. STRAIN

Add ice to the mixing glass last, Tebay suggests, because the balance of a stirred cocktail comes from the small amount of ice melt that mellows the booze. “When you add the ice last, you end up with a more homogenous drink that’s poured at the right temperature and dilution,” she says.

Big, fresh cubes—and lots of them—will give you the most control over the final result.

“Shaking and stirring both chill and dilute.

The difference is texture,” says Tebay.

“When you stir, you give the cocktail a mouth-coating, velvety texture.”

Also, don’t beat up the drink; use your barspoon to caress it into existence. “Just a gentle flick of the wrist.” She stirs drinks served on ice for 20 to 30 seconds and drinks served straight up for 40 seconds.

Tebay advises tasting stirred drinks with a straw as you “work your way toward the sweet spot.” How do you find it? “You don’t want too much ice melt. But you don’t want so little that it’s overly astringent.” Stir and taste, and, if you need to, stir again.

“When it’s blindingly cold with a wonderfully silky texture and you can taste all the ingredients, that’s the Goldilocks moment.”

When pouring a cocktail for serving, you don’t want dribbles or stray ice splashing out. Use a Hawthorne strainer that fits the mixing glass with a spring snug inside the rim. If your mixing glass is really loaded with ice, Tebay suggests a convex julep strainer that cups the ice. In this, as in all steps to the perfect stirred cocktail, follow her motto: “Work smarter, not harder.”

Dream Catcher TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1

Muddled strawberries add a red hue to this Negroni-inspired drink. Pisco stands in for herbaceous gin and works well with the bittersweet Aperol and delicate blanc vermouth.

2 small fresh strawberries with tops, divided 3 Tbsp. (1 1/2 oz.) pisco 2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) blanc vermouth 1 1/2 Tbsp. (3/4 oz.) Aperol Ice cubes 1 large ice cube Using a paring knife, carefully hull 1 strawberry; discard top and core. Gently muddle hulled strawberry in a mixing glass. Skewer remaining strawberry on a cocktail skewer, and set aside. Add pisco, blanc vermouth, and Aperol to mixing glass with muddled strawberry; fill mixing glass nearly to the top with ice cubes. Gently stir mixture until well combined, chilled, and diluted, 20 to 30 seconds. Pour mixture through a Hawthorne or cocktail strainer into a rocks glass over a single large ice cube. Garnish with skewered strawberry, and serve.

—SHANNON TEBAY, AMERICAN BAR, SAVOY HOTEL, LONDON

Shadow Woman TOTAL 5 MIN; SERVES 1

This old-fashioned–style cocktail gets a fruity kick from pear brandy and gentle sweetness from honey; the bourbon adds a bite without overpowering the drink.

3 Tbsp. (1 1/2 oz.) bourbon 1 Tbsp. (1/2 oz.) pear brandy 1 tsp. honey 2 dashes Angostura bitters Ice cubes 1 large ice cube 1 orange peel twist 1 lemon peel twist Combine bourbon, brandy, honey, and bitters in a mixing glass; fill mixing glass nearly to the top with ice cubes. Gently stir mixture until well combined, chilled, and diluted, 20 to 30 seconds. Pour mixture through a cocktail strainer into a rocks glass over a single large ice cube.

Garnish with orange and lemon peel twists, and serve. —SHANNON TEBAY, AMERICAN BAR, SAVOY HOTEL, LONDON

MARCH 2022

61

LA TOUR EIFFEL, PARIS

TRAVEL + LEISURE CLUB MEMBER, STACEY LEASCA

An architectural icon symbolizing style, strength

Travel journalist Stacey Leasca celebrates la joie de vivre

and the city of lights. Toast your journey to the

from Hotel Lutetia’s extravagant penthouse suite,

top at the tower’s built-in Champagne Bar.

designed by Francis Ford Coppola.

BY THE PEOPLE BOLD ENOUGH TO GO FIRST, FOR THE PEOPLE LONGING TO GO NE XT. Preferre d Pricing Exclusive Experiences Customized Concierge Up to 60% off Hotels and Resorts

C ST-2 1 41 4 5 0 - 5 0. F l a . S e l l e r of Trave l Re g . N o. ST 3 5 51 9.

Wa s h . S e l l e r of Trave l Re g . N o. 6 03 3 3 81 7 7.

3 0 D AY F R E E T R I A L MONTHLY $14.95 $19.95 Cancel anytime

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E .C O M / C L U B

TRAVEL WHERE TO GO NEXT

Canada’s Culinary Secret Quebec’s little-known Magdalen Islands are a food lover’s paradise.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GABRIELA HERMAN

By Taras Grescoe

The Dune du Sud (South Dune) beach on Havre aux Maisons island is known for its distinctive red cliffs and caves that visitors can explore at low tide.

produced by MELANIE HANSCHE

MARCH 2022

63

T R AV E L

A

clockwise from left: At Le Fumoir

of the Magdalen Islands d’Antan, locally caught herring hang through the blur of the plane’s twinfrom the rafters, where they are slowly smoked over smoldering maple logs propeller blades, I made a vow: to experifor three months, imparting a unique ence the archipelago’s rich food culture at flavor; colorful fishing vessels and reca leisurely pace. The first time I’d visited the Îles de reational boats dot the islands’ many la Madeleine, as they’re known in French-speaking ports and marinas.

Quebec, I’d been on a frantic mission. I spent a few days shoveling smoked scallops, flat-shelled oysters, goat cheese, and high-proof ales into the trunk of my car before rapidly a necessity. At Pied-de-Vent (fromageriedupied departing again by ferry for the mainland. Now, two years later, I wanted devent.com), a fromagerie that makes exquisite to take the time to roam the Magdalens’ powdery quartz beaches and meet European-inspired cheeses, I joined a tour group some of the region’s artisans and makers along the way. following a herd of rare Canadian cows from their cliffside pastures back to the farm. Inside the facI started by checking into a rustic seaside cottage on Cap aux Meules (the second-largest and most central island) and picking up a sturdy aluminumtory, cheesemaker Renée Landry explained that framed rental bike. My first stop? Le Fumoir d’Antan (fumoirdantan.com), they allowed the local pork producer, Aucoin des an 80-year-old smokehouse where much of the catch from the islands’ fleet Sangliers, to collect their leftover whey to feed of 300-plus fishing boats is smoked over maple-wood fires. their boars. Their cheddar (Art Senau) was sent to “My grandfather built this smokehouse in 1940,” owner Benoît Arseneau Fumoir d’Antan to be smoked; the microbrewery told me inside the hangar-like building where iridescent-scaled herring À l’Abri de la Tempête (see “Where to Eat & Drink,” dangled from the rafters. “Back then, there were 40 others on the islands. p. 67) supplied them with Scotch ale to wash the Each spring, they would smoke 10 million pounds of herring.” At the shop rinds of their Tomme des Demoiselles; and they’d counter, Arseneau served me skewers of smoke-cured mackerel, cod, and perfected a gelato, which was served drizzled with salmon. We washed them down with gulps of Corps Mort, a locally brewed rosehip syrup at Gourmande de Nature (see “Where beer made with malted barley impregnated with the drippings from herto Eat & Drink,” p. 67), a one-stop shop for some of the Magdalens’ best foods. “Our insularity,” Landry ring as they cured over the wood fires. “It’s almost animal, this beer,” he told me, “has made us resourceful. And that spirit chuckled. “With smoked fish, it’s the perfect marriage.” has been passed on to local businesses. We’d rather Cooperation is considered a virtue in the Magdalens’ tightly knit comcooperate than compete.” munity. Most people here are of Acadian background, descendants of the I began the following day at the Resto de l’Île, a more than 10,000 French farmers expelled from Maine and the Canadian Maritimes in 1755, and isolation and long winters made pulling together friendly diner in the islands’ only shopping mall

64

S I CAUGHT SIGHT

MARCH 2022

(Centre d’Achats Place des Îles), with a plate of beignets à pâte levée, braided, deep-fried bread dough drizzled with caramel syrup. I needed every one of those calories: Rolling hills make for easy riding here, but sporadic headwinds sometimes brought me to a near-standstill, even when I was pedaling full-speed downhill.

On Havre Aubert, the southernmost island, I coasted past lobster boats drydocked next to cedar-shingled homes top left: Éloi Vigneau runs the only orchard on the Magdalen Islands, producing apple cider, painted in shades of canary and saffron, mead, and a blend of apple brandy and cider. above: To produce the distinctive liqueur with a until I reached the Le Verger Poméloi (le whole apple in the bottle, the bottles are threaded onto branches prior to the fruit maturing. vergerpomeloi.com). There, orchard owner Éloi Vigneau presses the fruit from 700 apple trees into crisp ciders, chouchen (a Breton-style mead) ferthe local take on a lobster roll. He makes a point of keeping mented with wild yeasts, and Poméloi, an aperitif with a whole bluefin tuna and other threatened species off the menu. “For a apple in each bottle. In the hillside orchard, where the slopes place with fewer than 13,000 full-time residents, we’re really look down over kitesurfers riding over the Mediterraneanlucky to be able to offer such high-quality ingredients.” hued waters of a dune-sheltered lagoon, Vigneau’s son Élie Acadian pride in hospitality means that, no matter whether showed me how they pulled off the trick: Uncorked bottles you dine on a picnic table or a white tablecloth, it’s going to are threaded onto the tree branches, and the apples grow to be tasty. On my last night, I left my bike leaning—no need for maturity encased in glass. locks on the islands—outside Eva, an excellent new restaurant For seafood lovers, the islands are a paradise. Warming overlooking the little fishing harbor at l’Étang du Nord (@eva. waters in the Gulf of Maine mean lobsters have migrated north restaurant on Instagram). As I drank Chablis with a half-dozen to the Magdalens, and, for the time being at least, the local scalflat-shelled oysters from the Trésor du Large, a mariculture lop, northern shrimp, and halibut fisheries are in good shape. company that raises shellfish in deepwater offshore cages, I was I stopped for a pot-en-pot, a creamy seafood casserole baked momentarily transported to the boulevards of Montparnasse. But in puff pastry, at Café de la Grave (cafedelagrave.com), a cozy then I looked up to see the sun setting behind the wave-lashed spot on a waterfront strip of sheds where fishermen once salthulk of the century-old Duke of Connaught, one of hundreds ed their catch. At the opposite end of the archipelago, in the of shipwrecks that surround the islands, and I was reminded fishing port of Grande Entrée, I met Mario Cyr in his intimate that I was on a fish-hook-shaped scribble of sand, a five-hour ocean-themed bistro, Plongée Alpha (plongeealpha.com), where ferry ride from the nearest port. he hosts lively presentations on his international career as an I couldn’t think of any place else I’d rather be. underwater photographer.

“Three-quarters of what’s on our menu comes from the Author Taras Grescoe’s next book, The Lost Supper: Why the Future of Our Food Lies in the Past, will be published by Greystone in 2023. islands,” pointed out Cyr, as I worked on a guédille au homard,

MARCH 20221

65

T R AV E L

GETTING THERE Accommodations are often booked a year in advance in the Magdalens, particularly for the peak months of July and August. A good time to visit is in May or September, when the crowds are thinnest. Many visitors come by car, taking a five-hour ferry ride from Souris, Prince Edward Island. Others opt for the one-anda-half hour flight from Montreal. Rental cars are available at the airport; bicycles can be rented from Le Pédalier (lepedalier.com) in Cap aux Meules. (tourisme ilesdelamadeleine.com)

WHERE TO STAY AUBERGE CHEZ DENIS À FRANÇOIS This 14-room inn, in a distinctive egg-yolk yellow 1867 farmhouse, overlooks the shops and cafés of La Grave. (Don’t miss Atelier Côtier, an artists collective whose beautifully designed boutique specializes in witty, island-themed tchotchkes.) The inn’s seafood-focused restaurant offers Pernodmarinated scallops, among other delights.

(Rooms from $145, aubergechezdenis.ca) DOMAINE DU VIEUX COUVENT

clockwise from top: The rooms at

Domaine du Vieux Couvent have stunning views of the sea; the hotel was a former convent and is built with stones from across the archipelago; the lighthouse at Anse-à-la-Cabane is the oldest (and tallest!) working lighthouse on the islands, which in the early days were notorious for shipwrecks.

66

MARCH 2022

Even if you don’t stay at this century-old neoclassical-style convent, now an 11-room boutique hotel situated on a grassy promontory, make sure to book a table in the dining room, which offers a spectacular panorama of ferries arriving from Prince Edward Island and terns and gannets making vertical plunges into the waves for their dinner.

(Rooms from $200, domaineduvieux couvent.com)

clockwise from left: Classic moules

et frites at Café de la Grave; the café (reopening summer 2022) is located in a quaint former general store; Chez Renard is a hip and welcoming coffee shop and wine bar that serves tasty small plates with an emphasis on local seafood such as herring, mackerel, and oysters.

PHOTOGRAPHY: (CAFÉ INTERIOR) MEGGY TURBIDE, (MACKEREL DISH) COURTESY GOURMANDE DE NATURE

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK GOURMANDE DE NATURE Chef Johanne Vigneau opened La Table des Roy (restaurantla tabledesroy.com; reopening spring 2022), acclaimed by critics as the Magdalens’ best restaurant, 40 years ago on the ground floor of the house she grew up in Cap aux Meules. In 2012, she opened Gourmande de Nature, a culinary hub in l’Étang du Nord that offers cooking classes; a dining room and patio offering more casual, but still topnotch, bistro fare; and a boutique selling compotes, herbs, and Pied-de-Vent’s gelato. (gourmande denature.com)

DOMAINE DES SALANGES

CHEZ RENARD Inspired by the buvettes, or easygoing wine bars, of Quebec City, the newly opened Chez Renard, housed in a lime-green clapboard house close to the ferry landing, has been adopted by Madelinots as a favorite weekend destination with a seasonal, market-based tapas menu. (On Instagram @_chezrenard_) LES PAS PERDUS The social center of the island, located near the ferry landing, Les Pas Perdus is in fact three institutions: a concert hall that hosts bands and storytellers during summer festivals, a six-room inn, and a rambunctious Asianfusion café-bistro. (pasperdus.com)

À L’ABRI DE LA TEMPÊTE The Magdalens’ only microbrewery is also one of the best in Quebec. Brewer Élise Cornellier Bernier began her career as an artist in Montreal, and her boundarypushing style shines

through in the barley wines, cream ales, and other brews on tap in the pub. The terrace overlooking the dunes is a perfect place to savor a flight of beers, including Trans IPA and Cale Sèche, a blonde ale. (alabridela tempete.com)

Wine has never been the preferred drink of the Magdalens.

That said, Burgundytrained LaurenceOlivier Brossard has planted 8,000 Baltica vines, resistant to Canadian winters, on the island of Havre Aubert. (Winery visits can be arranged at domainedessalanges .com.) Self-sufficient islanders preferred to ferment a traditional tipple known as bagosse from wild berries, rhubarb, and even dandelions.

Tastings are held in Le Barbocheux’s shop; if you’re lucky, co-owner Léonce Arseneau, a born storyteller, will be on hand to bend your ear with Acadian lore. (bagossedesiles.com)

MARCH 2022

67

T R AV E L

LIKE A LOCAL

Weekend in Dallas A highly opinionated guide is a butcher and self-proclaimed comic-book nerd with a passion for farming, foraging, fermenting, and fire. Her obsessions come to life on the trailblazing menu of her small business, Petra and the Beast, one of Dallas’ most exciting restaurants. Born into a Cajun family, the Texas native has spent well over a decade cooking in Dallas. Here, she shares some of her favorite spots, a true insider’s guide to a vibrant, dynamic city. —MELANIE HANSCHE 2019 F&W BEST NEW CHEF MISTI NORRIS

america’s best burgers!

“Dallas may be one of the best burger cities in America. My favorite burger bars are Maple & Motor (mapleandmotor.com), where I get my burger pink and add pepper Jack and mayo; Lee Harvey’s (leeharveys.com), where I always order the basic cheeseburger; and Lakewood Landing (thelakewoodlanding.com).

Lakewood does an amazing burger with Noonday onion rings when in season; the onions, only grown in Noonday, Texas, are so sweet!”

breakfast bites “I definitely love my bagel sammies and lox, and I go to Shug’s Bagels (shugs bagels.com) to enjoy them.

Depending on the mood, I also love Original Market Diner (originalmarketdiner .com); they have the best fried chicken—it’s topped with a fried egg and served with hash browns on the side. For good espresso, I head to Full City Rooster (fullcityrooster.com) in the Cedars in South Dallas.”

the dallas dish “Dallas is known for barbecue, and Slow Bone (slow bone.com) has some of the best around. Their brisket, beef ribs, and especially their pork chops (which are available only on Sundays and Mondays) are absolute must-tries.”

the sub is the way “I regularly hit up Jimmy’s Food Store (jimmysfood store.com) in East Dallas.

They’re an old-school Italian grocer with a great deli counter; their meatball subs are not to be missed.”

a family fixture “I was 8 years old the first time my maw-maw made boudin balls. The best boudin in Dallas is at Baby Back Shak (babyback shak.com) in the Cedars; seriously, it’s the best in Dallas.”

S E C R E T

S P O T !

shake it up

“Cosmo’s (cosmosloungedallas.com) has a cool vibe; it’s an industry-favorite dive that happens to have one of the best Vietnamese menus in East Dallas.

Where else can you get a shot of Jameson, a Lone Star, and a bowl of pho?”

“Gabe Sanchez at Midnight Rambler (midnightrambler bar.com) in the basement of The Joule hotel fixes my favorite cocktail, a rye old-fashioned.”

TOP OF THE LIST WINNER, WINNER “Chef David Uygur and his wife, Jennifer, own and run Lucia (luciadallas.com), one of the best restaurants in Dallas. It has a warm and welcoming environment, and every dish will make you smile. Their charcuterie program is unmatched, and the pastas are mind-blowing.”

THIS IS THE PLACE “Brazilian-inspired Meridian (thevillage dallas.com/meridian) is my favorite spot in town. My go-tos are the Grilled “Beach Cheese” with hot honey, fusilli verde with pork ragù, and any bread they have that day.”

68

MARCH 2022

illustrations by DANA JUNG

THE F&W GUIDE TO MAKING PIZZA AT HOME A SUPER-FLAVORFUL AND FORGIVING PIZZA DOUGH IS THE KEY TO PRO-LEVEL PIES. STORY BY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

MARY-FRANCES HECK HUNTER LEWIS PAIGE GRANDJEAN

CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

COOK THE COVER P. 84

FOOD&WINE

71

HOME SLICE

USE A LIGHT HAND Going easy on toppings (see p. 78) allows the quality, texture, and flavor of the dough to shine— and doesn’t weigh down the pie.

A good pizza is one of the most rewarding things you can cook

at home. There’s the way dough feels alive and responsive in

your hands. The crackling sound a knife makes while crunching

neatly through a properly baked pie. The fragrant steam that arises when you bite into a pillowy, chewy, tangy crust. The joy shared among the lucky people at your table.

I’m especially attuned to these pleasures because pizza success eluded me for too long. My pies would come out of the oven blistered on the outside and gummy on the inside (cooked at too high a heat). Often my dough tore while I tried to shape it (weak gluten network). My crust lacked flavor (not fermented long enough). Thus began a low-key quest for a bulletproof recipe that would work in my home oven so I could finally bake a proper pie. I referenced cookbooks and talked to experts; I learned about hydration ratios of flour to water and protein levels in supermarket flours.

I acquired tools, including some fancy outdoor pizza ovens.

(See p. 80.) Still, perfection remained out of reach.

72

MARCH 2022

GIVE IT TIME Fermentation (with sourdough starter or a mix of yeast, water, and flour—see p. 74) gives the crumb its airy structure and complex flavor.

Enter my pizza-loving colleague Mary-Frances Heck.

The dough, she knew, was key, and she set to developing a flavorful, forgiving pizza dough that didn’t require fussing over. Then our fellow pizza-head and recipe developer Paige Grandjean refined the recipe further in the test kitchen. After that, we pressure-tested the recipe with a team of test kitchen cooks in their home kitchens with basic residential ovens.

Sure enough, the key to good pizza is good dough. And the dough that resulted from our repeated testing, tinkering, and evaluation (the dough on p. 74 and the cornerstone of this story) is very good. It has complex—but not too tangy—sourdough-like flavor, and it’s elastic and easy to work with—perfect whether this is your first time making pizza or your 50th. We then gave toppings, tools, and cook times the same workout. The result of our collective quest isn’t just good pizza at home—it’s great pizza at home.

So go ahead. Get out your favorite toppings, crank up the oven, and pour yourself a glass of wine. It’s pizza night in America. —HUNTER LEWIS

FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: AUDREY DAVIS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANA JUNG

MAKE IT SNAPPY A thin, crackling crust comes from stretching the dough by hand (see p. 77) and baking it on a stone or steel in a hot oven.

6 ESSENTIAL PIZZA TOOLS WEIGH IT The most accurate way to measure the ingredients and portion the dough is with a simple battery-powered digital scale that will tare to grams and ounces. Our testers like the Escali Arti Glass Kitchen Scale ($35, surla table.com).

PROOF IT To proof dough balls, place them on half sheet pans (Vollrath Wear-Ever HalfSize Sheet Pans, $35 for 2, amazon.com) or in BPA-free plastic pint containers (Safeware Deli Plastic Food Storage Containers, $22 for 50, amazon.com).

SHAPE IT A flexible, straight-edge plastic bowl scraper like the 51/4- x 31/2-inch Ateco Straight Edge Plastic Bowl Scraper ($1.19, webstaurant store.com) is helpful for handling and cutting the dough and for shaping the dough into balls.

MOVE IT Use a lightweight aluminum pizza peel to transfer topped dough rounds to the oven and turn the pies while cooking. We like perforated peels like the Gozney Placement Peel ($99, us.gozney .com) that allow excess flour to fall away.

BAKE IT Pros swear by the Baking Steel ($119, bakingsteel .com), a 16- x 14-inch slab that creates an ultra-hot surface for dough to crisp and rise. We also love the more lightweight, less expensive Lodge 15-inch pizza pan ($43, lodgecastiron.com).

SLICE IT Forget the pizza scissors and wheels. We like the versatility and length of the 14-inch rocker-style KitchenStar Stainless Steel Pizza Cutter for clean, even slices.

It doubles as a mezzaluna for cutting herbs and vegetables. ($19, amazon.com)

FOOD&WINE

73

1

STEP NO.

MAKE THE DOUGH

Despite its reputation as a convenience food, the most essential element of great pizza is time. A slow fermentation gives our pizza

dough its chewy-crispy texture and depth of flavor. It starts with your choice of sourdough starter (aka levain) or a simple mixture of flour,

water, and active dry yeast (poolish) left to ferment for 12 hours. Both options

start fermentation and build flavor in the dough overnight. Strategic stretching of the dough during the initial fermentation stage develops gluten and makes the dough evenly elastic and forgiving to work with.

REALLY GOOD PIZZA DOUGH

GET STARTED

FERMENTATION FORMULAS POOLISH

LEVAIN

Stir together 3/4 cup unbleached bread flour (about 31/4 ounces or 95 grams), 1/2 cup warm water (about 80°F) (4 ounces or 115 grams), and a pinch of active dry yeast (about 1/16 teaspoon) in a medium bowl.

Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel, and let ferment at cool room temperature (about 65°F) until increased in volume 21/2 to 3 times and passes the float test (see note below), about 12 hours.

Stir together 1/2 cup warm water (about 80°F) (4 ounces or 115 grams) and 3/4 ounce mature sourdough starter (about 1 1/2 tablespoons or 25 grams) in a medium bowl until starter is mostly dissolved. Stir in 3/4 cup unbleached bread flour (about 31/4 ounces or 95 grams) until well combined and mixture resembles thick batter. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel; let stand at room temperature until increased in volume 21/2 to 3 times and passes float test, at least 4 hours or up to 8 hours.

Is My Starter Ready? One way to know your levain or poolish is ready to work with is by doing the float test. Using wet fingers, pinch off a small portion (about 1/2 teaspoon) of poolish or levain, and drop it in a glass of roomtemperature water. If it floats, it’s ready to mix into dough. If it sinks, continue to ferment, performing the float test again after 30 minutes.

74

MARCH 2022

ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 20 MIN, PLUS 12 HR STANDING; MAKES 6 (9-OZ.) PIZZA DOUGH BALLS

Each 9-ounce dough ball will make one 10-inch pizza, a personal-size pie that’s also easy to maneuver around home countertops and ovens.

This overnight dough is easily doubled for pizza parties. Not cooking for a crowd? The raw dough may be frozen. (See note below.) For more make-ahead tips on parbaking and freezing pizza dough rounds, see p. 80.

2 1/4 cups (about 18 oz. or 510 grams) warm water (about 80°F) Levain or poolish (see sidebar at left) 7 cups (about 1 lb. 133/4 oz. or 850 grams) organic unbleached bread flour (such as King Arthur), plus more for work surface 1 Tbsp. (about 1/2 oz. or 16 grams) fine sea salt 2 Tbsp. (about 3/4 oz. or 20 grams) extravirgin olive oil, plus more for greasing 1. Stir together 21/4 cups warm water and levain in a large bowl until levain is mostly dissolved. Add flour and salt. Stir using a wooden spoon to form a shaggy dough. When dough becomes too stiff to stir with spoon, knead dough in bowl to form a ball. Turn dough onto a clean work surface, and knead until there are no dry patches of flour, about 1 minute. (Dough will be sticky. To easily clean doughy hands, sprinkle hands lightly with flour, and rub together over a trash can to loosen any stuck dough.) Place dough in a clean large bowl, and drizzle with oil. Knead dough in bowl until oil is incorporated, about 1 minute. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature until dough begins to rise, about 1 hour.

2. Uncover dough; starting at edge of bowl farthest from body, use a wet hand to lift edge of dough and stretch until there is tension, approximately 1 foot in the air (see photo, opposite).

Press the dough in toward the center; rotate bowl 90 degrees, and repeat motion to fold dough 4 times total. Flip dough seam side down; cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand 1 hour.

Repeat folding process 1 more time.

3. Cover dough bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until tripled in volume, about 12 hours, or refrigerate until increased in volume 21/2 to 3 times, at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.

4. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap, leaving about 3 inches of overhang on all sides; lightly grease plastic wrap with oil. Alternatively, lightly grease insides of 6 lidded plastic pint containers with oil. Set aside.

5. Uncover dough, and gently press to release air bubbles. Turn dough out onto a heavily floured work surface. Divide dough evenly into 6 portions (about 9 ounces or 255 grams each). Working with 1 dough piece at a time, stretch and fold 4 corners of dough in toward center. Flip dough seam side down. Using a bench scraper and a lightly floured hand, drag dough across work surface, rotating dough gradually with your hand as you pull it with bench scraper, until dough forms a taut ball. Using bench scraper, transfer dough ball, seam side down, to prepared baking sheet (or to 1 prepared pint container). Repeat process with remaining 5 dough pieces, spacing evenly apart on baking sheet, and pulling plastic wrap up between dough balls to prevent sticking (or place in 6 oiled plastic pint containers). Cover tightly with plastic wrap or lids.

6. For faster dough, let proof at room temperature 1 hour, and then refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 5 hours. Alternatively, for more flavorful dough, let dough proof more slowly in refrigerator, at least 6 hours or up to 3 days. —MARYFRANCES HECK AND PAIGE GRANDJEAN MAKE AHEAD Dough balls can be frozen in

lightly greased individual freezer-safe pint containers up to 2 weeks. Let thaw in refrigerator at least 12 hours or up to 2 days.

NOTE If you’re new to making pizza, prepare a

double batch of dough to get the hang of shaping and baking. Practice makes perfect.

5 KEY INGREDIENTS FOR REALLY GOOD DOUGH

3

1 STARTER The key differentiating factor in this dough is the use of a mature, flavorful sourdough levain, or a quickly assembled poolish made from active dry yeast, that develops its complexity overnight.

2 BREAD FLOUR Unless you’re baking at temperatures over 750°F, skip the fancy 00 flour.

Bread flour with a high protein content of around 12.7% yields a supple, forgiving dough with moderate gluten strength that’s easily stretched without tearing. Its neutral taste lets the toppings shine. We like King Arthur Organic Bread Flour.

OLIVE OIL In addition to boosting flavor, olive oil makes for an elastic dough that’s easy to shape. As the pizza bakes, the fat in the dough bubbles and blisters in the hot oven, forming a speckled and lightly crisp and chewy crust.

5

4 WARM WATER The ideal dough temperature for fermentation is around 78°F. Starting with water just warmer than this target temperature jump-starts fermentation and ensures the yeast stays happy and active.

Filter tap water to remove chlorine, which can adversely affect the dough’s taste and rise.

FINE SEA SALT The small granule size of fine sea salt, such as La Baleine, dissolves quickly and evenly in dough, providing a crisp and clean salinity throughout. Avoid kosher flake and iodized table salt, which will perform differently than fine sea salt. Finish pizzas with a sprinkle of flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for an extra punch of flavor and texture.

STEP NO.

2

GIVE IT SHAPE

The only way to truly learn how to shape dough is to put your hands on it and practice. With patience and experience, you’ll develop a feel for the dough and gain confidence in your shaping techniques

and topping combinations. Good pizza will become great pizza. To get started, we’ve broken down the shaping process into its key steps. Start by making the Really Good Pizza Dough (recipe p. 74).

FLOUR POWER This high-hydration (wet) dough is prone to sticking, so thoroughly dust the work surface with flour. Any excess flour will fall away as you stretch the dough, so don’t worry about going overboard.

1

76

MARCH 2022

Punch down the proofed dough in the bowl to gently release air bubbles. Turn dough out onto a heavily floured surface.

2

Cut dough using a bench scraper into 6 (9-oz. or 255-gram) portions.

Fold the 4 corners of each portion into the center.

5

Let chilled covered dough stand at room temperature until dough is cool and a fingerprint remains when dough is touched, 1 to 2 hours.

8

Lift dough onto the knuckles of both hands, and gently stretch, rotating dough after each pull to maintain its round shape.

3

Transfer dough portions to an unfloured work surface. Use a bench scraper to pull dough across surface to form taut balls.

6

Transfer 1 dough ball to a heavily floured surface. Using floured fingertips, firmly dock dough, leaving a ½-inch border.

9

Continue stretching dough, allowing gravity to help expand it, to form a 10-inch circle of even thickness with a slightly thicker outer ring.

4

Arrange balls on a plastic wrap– lined, oiled tray; tug plastic wrap up between balls. (Or place in 6 oiled plastic pint containers.) Cover; chill.

7

Form a C-shape with the outer edge of your hand, and press firmly around dough border to form a ½-inch-wide lip.

10

Lay dough round on a lightly floured surface or semolina-dusted pizza peel, reshaping as needed to form a circle.

FOOD&WINE

77

3

STEP NO.

ADD THE TOPPINGS

Pizza toppings should be applied with a light hand; think of them as a way to season and add texture to the flavorful crust. As the pizza bakes and the dough puffs and rises in the oven, the toppings will naturally flow toward the

center of the pie, so go easy on toppings in the middle.

1

2

OIL IT

If baking in a kitchen oven, brush edges of dough lightly with 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil or Smashed Garlic Oil (see recipe p. 83), being careful not to get oil on the pizza peel. (If baking in a pizza oven, skip this step.) Drizzle dough evenly with another 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil or Smashed Garlic Oil, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt.

3

SAUCE IT

Use a restrained hand with the sauce: 11/2 to 2 ounces is the perfect amount. Spoon 1/4 cup Basic Pizza Sauce (recipe at right), 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, or 3 tablespoons pesto onto dough; using back of spoon and starting in the center and working to the edge, spread sauce evenly over dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border around edge and adding less sauce to the very center of the pizza.

TOP IT

When it comes to toppings, less is more: Through our testing, we found that a total of 3 to 4 ounces of toppings (including cheese) is the ideal amount for these small 10-inch pizzas. Arrange cheese and 3 to 4 ounces toppings of choice evenly on sauce, starting from outer edge and working toward the center. Leave the 2 inches at the very center of the pizza lighter on toppings.

Preparing toppings before applying them to your pizzas is the key to tender, well-seasoned vegetables, sizzling meat, and evenly melted cheese. Mix and match to taste, or try one of our five Primo Pies (recipes p. 84).

2 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil

CHEESE

VEGETABLES

PROTEINS

HERBS AND GREENS

Low-moisture cheese is essential to crisp, wellstructured pies.

Prior to topping, toss 3 ounces prepared vegetables or hardy herbs with 2 teaspoons oil and a pinch of salt; let stand while oven preheats.

Precook and then chop or crumble fresh meat.

Purchase cured meats thinly sliced.

Add tender herbs and greens to hot pizzas right after baking.

Soft-ripened cheese, such as Brie, St. Albans, or robiola, cut into 1/2-inch pieces Low-moisture mozzarella, shredded on large holes of a box grater Goat cheese, crumbled into large pieces Ricotta, dolloped by the tablespoonful Parmesan or pecorino Romano, shaved with a vegetable peeler or finely grated

78

MARCH 2022

Onion or spring onion bulbs, thinly sliced Russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise on a mandoline Mushrooms, such as whole beech, thinly sliced button or cremini, or torn oyster Zucchini, thinly sliced lengthwise or cut into 1/4-inch cubes Roasted red bell peppers, peeled and thinly sliced Cherry tomatoes, halved or chopped

Thinly sliced cured meat, such as soppressata, pepperoni, or prosciutto Italian sausage or lamb sausage, crumbled and cooked Bacon or guanciale, chopped and cooked Anchovies, oil- or saltpacked, draped over toppings (can be applied before or after baking)

Simple is best when it comes to tomato sauce.

In our many rounds of testing, we tried cooked, raw, canned, and jarred tomato sauces and found the best flavor came from a raw sauce based on Muir Glen Organic Tomato Sauce. Open the can, grate in a little garlic, add a glug of olive oil, and stir in some fresh oregano, salt, and pepper. Spooned onto dough, it has bright acid and sweet-savory flavor that’s the star of a cheese pizza and lets other toppings shine.

1 (15-oz.) can Muir Glen Organic Tomato Sauce

GO-TO TOPPINGS

Fresh mozzarella, such as Di Stefano Fior di Latte or Crave Brothers Mozzarella, torn into 1/2-inch pieces

BASIC PIZZA SAUCE

Fresh herbs, such as basil, oregano, mint, or cilantro Scallions, chives, spring onion tops, or ramps, thinly sliced Arugula, lightly dressed with olive oil and lemon juice Olives, pitted and torn (these also may be added to pies before baking)

2 medium garlic cloves, grated on a Microplane 1 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano 3/4

tsp. fine sea salt

1/4

tsp. black pepper

Stir together all ingredients in a bowl. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days. —HUNTER LEWIS

MISE EN PLACE Prepare all of your ingredients in advance, and organize them for easy access. While the dough tempers, set up a pizza command center with all of your toppings, a kitchen towel, bench flour, semolina, and a pizza peel.

Small sheet pans or jelly roll pans are great for organizing ingredients, keeping pizza stations tidy.

“BALL BEARINGS” Dust the pizza peel with a thin, even layer of semolina before draping it with the stretched dough. The coarse flour will act as ball bearings, helping the topped pie slide easily from peel to preheated stone.

4

We’ve long coveted one of those tiled, wood-fired pizza ovens that

our favorite pizza joints all seem to have, but you don’t need to spend the price of a Ferrari to make pizzaiolo-level pies at home.

We built these recipes to work in home ovens that max out at 500°F and also for popular portable backyard pizza ovens like Ooni and Gozney that rely on

gas or wood and can crank up to 950°F. Controlling heat is the key to a proper bake. Here’s how to do it.

BAKING IN A KITCHEN OVEN Broiling for the last few minutes of cooking helps brown the edges and top of the pizza while the bottom crust continues to cook from the hot stone below. Don’t forget to return the oven to 500°F to give the stone time to heat back up while you stretch and top the next pizza.

1. Preheat oven to 500°F with a baking steel or large round cast-iron pizza pan (such as Lodge 15-inch) on middle rack.

Let pan preheat in oven about 30 minutes.

2. Gently shake pizza peel with prepared pie to loosen. If pizza feels stuck in any areas, carefully lift pizza edge with a bench scraper, and dust peel with a 1:1 mixture of semolina and bread flour.

3. Unload pizza onto preheated pan using quick, decisive movements: Set the peel

MAKE-AHEAD PIZZA FOR A CROWD Parbaking shaped dough (aka skins) was a revelation for us during recipe testing because it fast-tracks dinner for busy families or pizza-party hosts.

As a bonus, we found the crust gets extra crackly using this method.

80

MARCH 2022

edge on the pan at about a 20-degree angle, and quickly pull back peel to slide half of the pizza onto the pan. Gently shake the peel side to side while pulling it back to slide the rest of the pizza onto the pan, allowing it to stretch slightly.

4. Bake at 500°F until edges of crust have puffed slightly, about 3 minutes.

Rotate pan 90 degrees, and increase oven temperature to broil. Broil until pizza is cooked through and crust is browned, 3 to 6 minutes. Using the peel, transfer pizza to a cutting board. Reduce oven temperature to 500°F. If needed, dust off any residual flour on pizza pan using a silicone pastry brush or thickly folded flour sack towel. Let baking stone preheat for a few minutes before loading the next pizza.

KITCHEN OVEN

PIZZA OVEN

PARBAKING

PARBAKING

Shape and bake pizza dough at 500°F on preheated stone until just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to let cool completely, about 20 minutes. Freeze multiple skins in a large ziplock plastic bag up to 2 months. Thaw skins at room temperature about 30 minutes. Add toppings (see p. 78), and bake (see above) to desired doneness, 3 to 6 minutes.

Bake pizza dough according to “Baking in a Backyard Pizza Oven” (see above) until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes, rotating pizza every 30 seconds. Transfer to a wire rack to let cool completely, about 20 minutes.

Freeze parbaked crusts in ziplock bags up to 2 months.

Thaw skins at room temperature 30 minutes. Add toppings (see p. 78), and bake (see above) to desired doneness, 1 to 2 minutes.

BAKING IN A BACKYARD PIZZA OVEN 1. Preheat pizza oven and pizza stone according to manufacturer’s instructions on high 20 minutes.

(Note: Cooking with wood takes more experience to control the heat, so we’ve only included instructions for gas oven cooking here.)

2. Reduce oven heat to medium-low. Follow directions in steps 2 and 3 for “Baking in a Kitchen Oven” (at left)

to transfer pizza to oven. Cook pizza, using peel to rotate pizza 90 degrees every 20 to 30 seconds, until cooked through and crust is risen and charred in spots, 2 to 4 minutes.

3. Using peel, transfer pizza to a cutting board. If needed, brush off any residual flour on stone using an oven brush. Let oven preheat on high for a few minutes before loading the next pizza.

Want to take your pizza party to the next level? These backyard pizza ovens will do it. Here are two of our favorites.

GOZNEY ROCCBOX This gas pizza oven is efficient and powerful— so powerful that you’ll want to lower the flame once you’ve maxed out the temperature so the pizzas don’t blister too quickly on top before the dough cooks through. We like the solid construction, stable tripod legs, and nifty pizza peel.

Dependable and durable for cooking artisanstyle pies at home, tailgate, or campsite. ($499, gozney.com)

OONI KARU 12 MULTIFUEL PIZZA OVEN Ooni’s dual-fuel ovens are impressive: Within 25 minutes, an infrared thermometer clocked 950°F. Whether you’re using wood or gas, be sure to reduce the heat of the flame that licks the roof of the oven and washes over the dough (about 700°F is just right) for gorgeously charred pizzas with crispy bottoms and wood-fired flavor in minutes. ($399, ooni.com)

ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANA JUNG

STEP NO.

TIME TO BAKE

BETTER LEFTOVER PIZZA We had lots of leftover slices during recipe testing.

Here’s how to reheat them: For a few slices, heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high.

Add pizza slices in a single layer; cover and cook until pizza slices are heated through, 3 to 5 minutes. Flash under broiler for 1 minute, if desired. For several slices, reheat on a preheated pizza stone (see baking directions, opposite) until pizza is hot, 2 to 3 minutes.

STEP NO.

5

ADD A FANCY FINISH

While we’ll always love the pizzeria shakers of crushed red pepper and salty “Parmesan,” modern pizza

requires a little something extra to finish strong. Homemade Hot Honey, made here with fermented Calabrian chiles; anchovy-laced Fancy Ranch; and Smashed Garlic Oil, which can also be brushed

around the edges of a pie before baking, add pops of flavor to any pie. Garlic Confit, mellowed from an olive oil

bath, can be smashed and used as a prebake topping, and the oil drizzled over finished pies. And of course, no

one can turn down a dish of warm Basic Pizza Sauce (recipe p. 78) for dunking the “bones.”

82

MARCH 2022

FANCY RANCH TOTAL 5 MIN; MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS

Spiked with umami-rich anchovies, this versatile condiment is perfect for drizzling over pizza or tossing with salad greens. Chill the ranch overnight to thicken it slightly and allow the flavors to meld.

1 to 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets (to taste), finely chopped 1/2

cup sour cream

1/2

cup mayonnaise

1/3

cup whole buttermilk, plus more if needed

1/4

cup thinly sliced fresh chives

1 Tbsp. white vinegar 1 medium garlic clove, grated on a Microplane 1 tsp. black pepper 1/2

tsp. fine sea salt, plus more to taste

1/4

tsp. onion powder

Using flat side of a knife, smash chopped anchovies into a smooth paste on a cutting board. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add remaining ingredients; whisk until well combined. Thin with additional buttermilk if needed to reach desired consistency. Season with additional salt to taste. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 week. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN

SMASHED GARLIC OIL TOTAL 5 MIN; MAKES 1/2 CUP

Pungent fresh garlic permeates the olive oil for a quick and easy finishing oil with big flavor. Salt works as an abrasive to break down the chopped garlic into a smooth paste.

6 medium garlic cloves 1/4

tsp. fine sea salt

1/2

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2

tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

Finely chop garlic, and sprinkle with salt. Using flat side of a knife, smash to form a paste-like consistency.

Transfer mixture to a small bowl.

Stir in oil and oregano. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 day. — PAIGE GRANDJEAN

GARLIC CONFIT ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 10 MIN MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS

Garlic cloves become mellow and sweet as they bathe low and slow in buttery olive oil. Slather softened cloves over crusty bread, or whip garlicky oil into mashed potatoes.

1 1/2 cups olive oil 2 garlic heads, cloves separated and peeled (about 26 cloves) 1 (6-inch) oregano sprig 2 chiles de árbol 2 (3- x 1-inch) lemon peel strips 1/8

tsp. fine sea salt

Preheat oven to 250°F. Combine all ingredients in a small lidded ovenproof saucepan. Cover and roast in preheated oven until garlic is softened and very lightly browned, about 2 hours. Uncover and let cool completely, about 1 hour. Store in an airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 week. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN

HOT HONEY TOTAL 5 MIN, PLUS 24 HR INFUSING MAKES 2/3 CUP

Relying on time rather than heat to marry the flavors allows the fruity Calabrian chiles and floral clover honey to shine. For a milder spice,

remove some or all of the Calabrian chile seeds.

1/2

cup clover honey

10 jarred whole Calabrian chiles (about 1 1/2 oz.) (such as Tutto Calabria), finely chopped Pinch of fine sea salt Stir together all ingredients in a small lidded jar. Cover tightly with lid, and let stand at room temperature at least 24 hours or up to 2 weeks. (Hot honey will get spicier the longer it infuses.) —PAIGE GRANDJEAN NOTE Find Tutto Calabria chiles

online at supermarketitaly.com.

FOOD&WINE

83

STEP NO.

6

TRY OUR PRIMO PIES

Part of the fun of making your own pizza is personalizing your pie. From garlicky and briny to earthy and spicy, pizza is the perfect blank canvas for

highlighting garden-fresh produce or using up fridge leftovers. Follow our

topping guidelines (see p. 78) and choose your own adventure, or try these favorite combinations from the f&w test kitchen.

1 CLASSIC CHEESE PIZZA Do basic better.

Spread 1 shaped dough round with 1/4 cup Basic Pizza Sauce (recipe p. 78).

Top with 3 ounces shredded low-moisture mozzarella. Bake as directed; top with fresh basil or oregano leaves, if desired.

3

84

MARCH 2022

2 WILD MUSHROOM PIZZA WITH HOMEMADE RANCH Almost a salad. (Almost.)

Spread 1 shaped dough round with 1/4 cup Basic Pizza Sauce; top with 2 ounces torn fresh mozzarella and 1 ounce sliced or torn wild mushrooms that have been seasoned with olive oil and salt. Bake as directed; drizzle with Fancy Ranch (recipe p. 83).

4

POTATO PIZZA WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND BACON

SOPPRESSATA PIZZA WITH CALABRIAN CHILE HOT HONEY

Double the carbs? OK! Spread 1 shaped dough round with 3 tablespoons crème fraîche and 4 smashed cloves of Garlic Confit (recipe p. 83).

Layer with 2 ounces thinly sliced potato, 3/4 ounce caramelized onions, 1/4 ounce cooked crumbled bacon, and 6 baby kale leaves. Bake as directed; sprinkle with chopped fresh chives.

The pizza of the moment.

Spread 1 shaped dough round with 1/4 cup Basic Pizza Sauce; top with 1 1/2 ounces torn fresh mozzarella, 1 ounce thinly sliced soppressata, 1/4 ounce thinly sliced red onion, 1/2 ounce Calabrian chiles (optional), and fresh oregano leaves. Bake as directed; drizzle with Hot Honey (recipe p. 83).

5 SAUSAGE AND RICOTTA PIZZA WITH CASTELVETRANO OLIVES Meaty, briny, and vegetal.

Spread 1 shaped dough round with 2 tablespoons Basic Pizza Sauce; dollop with 3 tablespoons ricotta.

Top with 1 ounce cooked crumbled Italian sausage, 1 ounce roasted mixed bell peppers, and torn Castelvetrano olives (optional).

Bake as directed; top with fresh basil leaves.

Hakim Sulaimani, the owner of Yafa Café in Sunset Park, Brooklyn

FROM

YEMEN STO RY BY KHUSHBU SHAH

P H OTO G RA P H Y BY ALEX LAU

WITH

LOVE ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST COFFEE CULTURES TAKES ON DELICIOUS NEW LIFE AT YAFA CAFÉ.

87

HAWAIJ-SPICED FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES P. 95

88

MARCH 2022

H a burgundy track jacket half-zipped over a crisp white shirt, with a black bag that reads “Degentrify your coffee” in bright orange letters slung across his shoulder.

They say that some people wear their heart on their sleeve, but in Sulaimani’s case, it’s more of a mission statement. The soft-spoken 28-year-old is determined to build a completely new coffee economy for Yemen, some 7,000 miles away.

Sulaimani is the owner of Yafa Café, a bustling coffee shop on a busy stretch of Fourth Avenue in Brooklyn’s Sunset Park neighborhood. The deep notes of freshly roasted coffee and the sweet fragrance of cardamom engulf your nostrils the moment you push open the glass door. On the front left wall hangs a series of photographs, one depicting the facade of his family’s ancestral home in Yafa, a district located in the southern part of Yemen. Another wall is decked out in woven baskets from the same region. Each piece of decor, each cup of coffee poured, each item on the menu is an ode to Yemen.

“I want to do for Yemeni coffee what Starbucks has done for the Indonesian coffee economy,” says Sulaimani, who hopes to see coffee become one of Yemen’s main exports in his lifetime. Sulaimani first started taking pride in Yemeni coffee when he was 7 years old, thanks in part to a PBS show. A trivia question revealed that Yemen was one of the birthplaces of coffee, a fact that stuck with him. “I remember being a kid and feeling super hyped because I’d never heard of Yemen in any other context before in the mainstream,” he says. In college, when he was spending lots of time in coffee shops in New York City, he realized that Yemeni coffee could also be a viable career. He initially dreamed of a modest online business selling coffee beans, but that vision quickly morphed into the full-fledged café that he opened in 2019 with his cousin Ali Suliman (who has since left the business and is now a coffee consultant).

Today, Yafa Café serves a modern menu that includes HAKIM SULAIMANI IS WEARING

above:

Photographs of Yemen displayed on the walls. below: In addition to Yemeni coffee, Yafa Café creates house-roasted coffee blends sourced from Brazil, Uganda, Ethiopia, Nicaragua, and Peru.

MARCH 2022

89

cardamom–brown sugar lattes, za’atar avocado toast, and some very popular breakfast burritos.

Yafa Café is in the same working-class neighborhood where Sulaimani grew up. It’s on the same block as his father’s bodega, Yafa Deli,where he was practically raised. His father, Tarek, who arrived in the U.S. from Yemen nearly three decades ago, remains skeptical of the café, Sulaimani admits with a laugh.

But while his father still sells $1 cups of coffee at the bodega, Yemeni pour-overs go for $7 a cup at Yafa Café, not even 100 feet down the block. “Any type of coffee can trace its DNA to Yemeni coffee. So you’re drinking kind of the grandfather of coffee,” he says.

Sulaimani has high hopes for that coffee. He is frustrated that even though Yemeni coffee sells at record prices in the Western market (with one well-known shop making headlines for selling $16 cups), Yemen’s coffee farmers struggle to make ends meet—a situation made even more dire by the country’s ongoing civil war. Although Yemen has several 10th- and 11th-generation coffee farmers, many have shifted to growing khat, a popular amphetaminelike stimulant. For the coffee at Yafa Café, Sulaimani works with a small coffee farm in Yafa that relatives help manage, as well as a handful of other companies that prioritize the well-being of farmers and an ethical supply chain. He hopes to one day directly support more farms and to convince more coffee farmers to return to their original crop.

At Yafa Café, a big part of the business is educating customers, not only on why he charges $7 per cup of coffee but also through being transparent regarding his supply chain. His approach has paid off. In the years since it first opened, Yafa Café has become a glowing success, beloved both by the local community and by customers who trek in from neighboring states like Connecticut for the coffee and to order from the food menu, which, like the coffee, is rooted, but not fixed, in tradition. “I didn’t want to deal with people saying, ‘This isn’t how my mom makes it,’” says Sulaimani. Dishes like the shurba, or soup, with bulgur and a hawaij-spiced fried chicken sandwich have proven to be very popular. Another hit? The honeycomb buns, a sweet bread that his aunt would bake after her 4 a.m. prayers every morning when the café first opened.

These days, Sulaimani is looking to the future, one where he sees several more Yafa Cafés, each brimming with its own menu of Yemeni tea and coffee, and a thriving wholesale business, selling to several offices and cafés across the country. He has visions of walking down the aisles of Whole Foods one day and seeing bags of his coffee stacked high.

Sulaimani is energized by the number of Yemeni coffee shops that have popped up locally since he opened the doors to the café, and he is hopeful that there will be more.

“We’re finally seeing this fourth wave of coffee shops that sell African and Middle Eastern coffee because that is their background,” he says. “The beans are from where we come from. And so is the culture.”

90

MARCH 2022

above:

In addition to a coffee menu of espresso drinks and pour-overs, guests at Yafa Café can order karak, a spiced and milky Yemeni tea, and qahwa, a drink made from coffee husks steeped with ginger and cardamom. below: A photograph of women carrying tea in Yemen.

YEMENI BULGUR WHEAT SHURBA (SOUP) P. 94

KHALIAT AL NAHL (HONEYCOMB BUNS) P. 94

YEMENI POUR-OVER COFFEE P. 95

COFFEE CULTURE Yemen’s biggest contribution to coffee history lies in its transformation of a simple beverage into a social activity. Coffee’s debut in Yemen dates back to the 15th century, when Sufi monks roasted and brewed coffee beans in a fashion not far off from how coffee

is prepared today. As the popularity of the beverage swelled in the 16th century, coffeehouses known as “schools of the wise” appeared throughout Yemen, where people would converse, share information, and, in the center of it all, drink coffee. Thanks to the popularity of the intoxicating drink, which was unlike anything the world had seen, coffee became a highly valued trade product, eventually making its way to Europe in the 17th century. Today, because of

civil unrest in Yemen, the international sale of Yemeni coffee has become increasingly difficult. But in spite of the hardship, there’s a spark of invigoration surrounding the lost stories and cultivation of coffee in Yemen, with a growing focus on sustainable farming practices. Beans from the Matari, Haraaz, and Ismaili regions have earned their place as crown jewels in this coffee kingdom. West of the capital of Sanaa, Matari’s high altitude produces dense beans

with deep earth tones contrasted by fruity sweetness. Haraaz, a mountainous region in the northwest, breathes a winelike quality and flavor to the beans, and the rugged terrain of the Ismaili region gives its coffee a surprisingly light, citruslike body. In addition to Yafa Café (yafabrooklyn.com), Yemeni coffee can be sourced through Port of Mokha (portofmokha.com), Al Mokha (almokha.com), or AlAqeeq (yemencoffeeonline.com).

—ANDEE MCKENZIE

MARCH 2022

93

li ke i ts co f f e e ,

t he ca fe� ' s rec i pe s a r e root e d, but n ot fi x ed, i n tr ad i ti o n.

KHALIAT AL NAHL (HONEYCOMB BUNS) PHOTO P. 92

ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 50 MIN, PLUS 7 DAYS STANDING; SERVES 12

A traditional Yemeni pastry, khaliat al nahl are sweet, cloudlike balls of dough that are filled with cream cheese and drenched in cardamom-infused honey before being topped with crunchy white sesame and nigella seeds.

CARDAMOM-INFUSED HONEY 1/3

cup clover honey

5 green cardamom pods, smashed, or 1/8 tsp. ground cardamom BUNS 3/4

cup whole milk, warmed (about 110°F), divided

1 tsp. active dry yeast (from 1 [1/4-oz.] envelope) 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided 2 cups all-purpose flour (about 81/2 oz.)

1/4

cup vegetable oil, plus more for work surface, hands, and bench scraper

1 tsp. baking powder 1/2

tsp. fine sea salt Unsalted butter, softened, for greasing baking pan

6 oz. cream cheese (about 1/2 cup), chilled 1 tsp. white sesame seeds 1/2

tsp. nigella seeds

1. Make the cardamom-infused honey: If using cardamom pods, stir together honey and smashed cardamom pods in a small bowl. Cover tightly, and let stand at room temperature until honey has a faint cardamom flavor, at least 7 days or up to 10 days. Remove and discard cardamom pods before using. Alternatively, stir together honey and ground cardamom in a small bowl. Set aside.

2. Make the buns: Stir together 1/4 cup warm milk, yeast, and 1 teaspoon sugar in a small bowl. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

94

MARCH 2022

3. Stir together flour, oil, baking powder, salt, and remaining 2 teaspoons sugar in a large bowl. Stir in yeast mixture until incorporated. Stir in 1/4 cup warm milk.

Knead dough in bowl until a ball forms, about 30 seconds. Add remaining 1/4 cup warm milk, and knead dough in bowl until milk is incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Dough will be very sticky. Scrape down sides of bowl using a rubber spatula. Cover bowl with a clean towel, and let dough rest in a warm (75°F to 80°F) place until doubled in volume, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400°F during final 15 minutes of dough proofing time, and lightly grease an 8-inch square metal baking pan with butter.

4. Divide and shape cream cheese evenly into 24 (1/4-ounce) balls (about 1 teaspoon each). Place cream cheese balls on a parchment paper–lined plate, and chill until ready to use.

5. Turn dough out onto a well-oiled work surface. Using oiled hands and an oiled bench scraper, divide dough evenly into 24 (about 5/8-ounce) pieces (about 2 tablespoons each). Working with 1 dough piece at a time, push 1 cream cheese ball into center of dough piece. Pull dough up and over to fully encase cream cheese.

Using oiled hands, gently roll dough on a well-oiled surface to form a ball with cream cheese in center of ball. Place filled dough ball, seam side down, in prepared baking pan. Repeat process with remaining dough pieces and cream cheese balls, arranging filled dough balls side by side and just touching each other in baking pan.

6. Bake in preheated oven until buns are light golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes.

Remove from oven, and immediately drizzle buns with 1/4 cup warmed cardamominfused honey. Sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds and nigella seeds. Let buns cool in baking pan 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzling with remaining cardamom-infused honey, if desired.

—HAKIM SULAIMANI, YAFA CAFÉ, BROOKLYN NOTE Find nigella seeds and whole

cardamom pods at Middle Eastern markets or online at kalustyans.com.

YEMENI BULGUR WHEAT SHURBA (SOUP) PHOTO P. 91

TOTAL 45 MIN; SERVES 2 TO 4

Often served with meals during Ramadan, this Yemeni shurba, or soup, regularly containing lamb, is warming and hearty. Yafa Café shared this vegetarian version, which is just as satisfying thanks to the richly savory flavor from the blend of cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, ground ginger, and bay leaves.

1 cup uncooked #3 coarse bulgur 5 cups water 1 small yellow onion, halved, peeled, and root end trimmed 1 small tomato, cored 4 medium garlic cloves, peeled 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 13/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste 1/2

tsp. ground cumin

1/2

tsp. black pepper

1/4

tsp. ground cinnamon

1/4

tsp. ground ginger

2 bay leaves 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 4 (11/2-oz.) sourdough bread slices Chives and lemon wedges, for serving 1. Place bulgur in a fine wire-mesh strainer; rinse under cold water 30 seconds. Transfer bulgur to a large saucepan; add 5 cups water, onion halves, tomato, and 2 garlic cloves. Bring to a boil over high. Boil, turning onion and tomato occasionally, until onion is translucent and just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Transfer onion halves, tomato, and the 2 garlic cloves to a blender, leaving bulgur and water in pan. Secure lid on blender, and remove center piece to allow steam to escape. Place a clean towel over opening.

Process until smooth, about 25 seconds.

Return pureed onion mixture to pan with bulgur. Stir in tomato paste, 11/2 teaspoons salt, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, and bay leaves. Bring to a gentle

simmer over medium. Simmer, stirring and scraping bottom of pan occasionally to prevent sticking, until bulgur is tender, soup thickens, and mixture resembles the consistency of porridge, 12 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat. Remove and discard bay leaves. Season soup with additional salt to taste.

3. While soup cooks, preheat oven to broil with rack about 6 inches from heat. Grate remaining 2 garlic cloves to equal 1 teaspoon. Place grated garlic in a small bowl, and stir in melted butter. Brush butter mixture evenly over both sides of bread slices, and sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Arrange bread slices on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Broil in preheated oven until bread is toasted and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Garnish soup with chives, and serve with garlic bread and lemon wedges.

—HAKIM SULAIMANI, YAFA CAFÉ, BROOKLYN WINE Light-bodied Alto Adige white: 2020

Cantina Terlano Pinot Grigio

HAWAIJ-SPICED FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES PHOTO P. 8 8

TOTAL 1 HR 15 MIN, PLUS 12 HR MARINATING; SERVES 4

Crunchy fried chicken spiced with cumin, curry, cardamom, and nutmeg gets slathered with a slightly smoky plum sauce and then dressed with fresh coleslaw and pickles to add a subtle vinegary punch in these decadent fried chicken sandwiches.

BUTTERMILK MARINADE

1 cup whole buttermilk 2 Tbsp. hawaij spice blend (such as Sahadi) 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 Tbsp. black pepper 11/2 tsp. paprika 4 (7-oz.) boneless, skinless chicken breasts COLESLAW

1 cup shredded brussels sprouts 1 cup shredded red cabbage 1/2

cup shredded green cabbage

1/4

cup plus 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise

1 Tbsp. water 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. dried oregano

pickles. Cover with bun tops.—HAKIM

1 tsp. ground nutmeg

SULAIMANI, YAFA CAFÉ, BROOKLYN

SAUCE

2 small plums, unpeeled, coarsely chopped (about 1 cup) 1/4

cup packed fresh cilantro leaves

1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. black pepper

Bonarda NOTE Find hawaij at Middle Eastern

markets or online at kalustyans.com.

2 tsp. honey 11/2 tsp. adobo sauce from canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (such as La Morena) 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2

tsp. granulated garlic

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1/4

tsp. black pepper

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

Vegetable oil, for frying 4 brioche hamburger buns, split

YEMENI POUR-OVER COFFEE PHOTO P. 93

TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 1 TO 2

Yemeni coffee is traditionally grown at elevations that lend a winey, spiced profile to the coffee. The best way to extract those flavors is using the pour-over method, which preserves the flavor and aroma of the roasted coffee beans.

Dill pickles, for serving 20 1. Make the buttermilk marinade: Whisk together buttermilk, hawaij, salt, pepper, and paprika in a large bowl. Using tongs, add chicken, and turn to coat in marinade.

Cover and refrigerate 12 hours.

2. Make the coleslaw: Stir together brussels sprouts, cabbage, mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon water, and salt in a medium bowl.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

3. Make the panko breading: Pulse panko in a food processor until texture resembles grated cheese, about 5 pulses. Transfer panko to a wide, shallow bowl. Stir in salt, pepper, oregano, and nutmeg; set aside.

4. Make the sauce: Process plums, cilantro, honey, adobo sauce, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper in a blender until smooth, about 40 seconds. Set aside.

5. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 3/4 inch in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet; heat oil over medium-high to 325°F. Meanwhile, set a wire rack inside a large rimmed baking sheet; set aside. Remove chicken from refrigerator. Working with 1 chicken breast at a time, scrape excess marinade off chicken. Dredge chicken in panko breading to coat, pressing to adhere. Shake off excess breading. Place chicken on a plate.

6. Working in 2 batches, fry chicken in hot oil until panko is browned and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 160°F, 11 to 14 minutes, gently turning chicken every 2 to 3 minutes and adjusting heat as needed to maintain oil temperature of 320°F to 325°F. Transfer chicken to prepared rack on baking sheet.

PANKO BREADING

11/2 cups panko

WINE Bright, light-bodied red: 2019 Tilia

7. Spread 2 tablespoons sauce onto cut sides of each bun bottom. Place 1 chicken breast on each bun bottom; top with heaping 1/4 cup coleslaw and desired amount of

grams Yemeni coffee beans (such as Al Mokha) (about 1/4 cup)

400 grams water (about 12/3 cups plus 1 Tbsp.)

1. Using a burr grinder, grind coffee beans into a medium grind. Set aside.

2. Heat 400 grams water in an adjustabletemperature electric pour-over kettle with a gooseneck spout to 205°F according to manufacturer’s instructions. (Alternatively, bring water to a boil in a stovetop pour-over gooseneck kettle. Remove from heat, and let cool 30 seconds.)

3. Place coffee dripper from pour-over set on top of coffee server. Place 1 bleached paper filter in dripper, and place the entire pour-over set on a digital food scale. Pour 30 grams hot water onto filter to wet it.

(This step will eliminate any flavor from the bleached paper, as well as preheat the coffee server.) Once water has passed through filter, discard water in server. Return dripper with filter to top of server.

4. Add ground coffee to filter. Start a timer.

Slowly pour 50 grams hot water over ground coffee in a circular motion to saturate all the coffee grounds. Give server a little circular shake to evenly distribute coffee grounds, or stir using a spoon to mix quickly. This process should happen in 15 seconds.

When timer reaches 30 seconds, slowly pour 150 grams hot water over coffee in a circular motion. At 1 minute and 30 seconds, slowly pour remaining hot water (about 160 grams) over coffee in a circular motion.

5. Let coffee drain. Remove and discard filter. Enjoy, preferably black. —HAKIM SULAIMANI, YAFA CAFÉ, BROOKLYN NOTE Find Yemeni coffee beans at Middle

Eastern markets or online at kalustyans.com.

MARCH 2022

95

COMING TO

America

AS NEW IMMIGRANTS FROM CHINA TO THE UPPER MIDWEST, LAN SAMANTHA CHANG’S PARENTS SHOWED THEIR INVENTIVENESS, PERSISTENCE, AND CREATIVITY IN THE KITCHEN.

BY LAN SAMANTHA CHANG

PHOTOGRAPHY BY VICTOR PROTASIO

CHICKEN SPAGHETTI LO MEIN P. 102

MARCH 2022

97

When my mother and father moved to Appleton, Wisconsin, in 1965, the uppermost question in their thoughts was:

Asian immigrants to arrive in that small Midwestern city of under 50,000 people. Natives of Beijing and Shanghai, raised wholly on authentic northern Chinese dishes, they arrived to the Upper Midwest in an era of iceberg lettuce salads, tuna casserole with cream of mushroom soup, and peanut butter.

Lots of peanut butter. Overriding the trials of the language barrier and social isolation came the daily challenge of satisfying their appetites in a place where the cuisine was utterly strange.

In 1965, they couldn’t join WeChat or search ideas on the internet. They brought no supplies or cookbooks, only their Chinese palates and their unique capabilities. My mother, an inexperienced cook but a brilliant student, set her keen analytical skills to the task of putting dinner on the table. My father contributed his numerous childhood memories from poking around the kitchen, watching his grandmother and the family cook make dumplings or scallion pancakes.

Pining for napa cabbage, scallions, hot pepper, and ginger, my parents drove 200 miles to Chicago, where they filled the car with perishables and dried goods from Chinatown. They repeated THEY WERE THE FIRST

98

MARCH 2022

top, from left: Author Lan Samantha Chang

on her first birthday with her sister Tai and her mother, Helen. Her sister Tina (left) joins them in the snow. opposite: Helen Chung-Hung Chang adapted northern Chinese dishes to accommodate the ingredients available to her in Wisconsin during in the 1960s and 1970s.

this supply trip once or twice a year, stocking up on the fresh foods they craved and buying dehydrated staples: mushrooms, dried tofu skins, and tiny dried shrimp.

My parents foraged the local supermarket, hunting for anything plausible to combine with the dried goods. They purchased fantastic, waxy cucumbers and cuts of meat that they’d never tried before and then lugged these finds back home and concocted Chinese recipes that did not exist. My mother stir-fried any vegetable at hand. When over-gifted with Midwestern zucchini, she threw it into hot oil. Mystified by the ubiquitous iceberg lettuce, she stir-fried it as well.

The result was surprisingly delicate, crisp and fresh.

Our daily meals consisted of local produce combined with carefully rationed staples from Chicago. “They looked around to see what was available,”

recalls my oldest sister Tai Terry, a child when she arrived in Appleton. “And they thought, ‘What can we bring from Chicago that will keep forever?’”

For example, my mother would slice a few precious dried mushrooms and stir-fry them with supermarket celery and pressed tofu from the freezer. Celery is not a naturally occurring Chinese ingredient. It’s not generally used in Chinese cooking. But my family enjoyed this dish regularly for its umami crunchiness. Also, freezing changed the texture of pressed tofu, creating tiny, appealing holes in it.

As a child, I loved marinated flank steak stir-fried with yellow onions, a recipe traditionally made with green onions, or scallions; you’ll often encounter it now in restaurants, served on a hot steel plate. Because she couldn’t get scallions at the store, my mother substituted yellow onions, creating a delicious combination that is still my favorite dish.

Tofu skins are a typical Shanghai dish, served with fresh soybeans. My parents drove out to a farm “in the middle of nowhere,” Tai recalls, and my father asked the farmer to sell him a few soybeans. My father was too proud to accept

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAN SAMANTHA CHANG (OPPOSITE) FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

What is there to eat?

MARCH 2022

99

the soybeans for free, and the farmer couldn’t imagine selling fewer soybeans than a bushel. So my parents came home with a bushel basket.

Stuck with an overflowing supply of soybeans, my parents embarked upon an effort to make tofu from scratch.

“That was a disaster,” my mother told me, decades later. “We burned out the engines in two blenders.”

I asked how the tofu turned out.

She made a face. “Just OK.” When my parents began to find American friends, my mother started keeping a file card in her recipe box with two lists of dishes: What do Americans like? What don’t Americans like? She learned quickly: Americans liked beef.

They devoured her hong shao niu rou (red-stewed beef) and preferred their soy sauce with a little sugar in it. They liked peanut butter—even combined with soy sauce. But they were confused and put off by a Chinese staple with a similar texture: fermented tofu.

Singing praises of her cooking, my father’s coworkers proposed the Chinese dishes they had heard about, and my mother obliged. Spring rolls? Sure.

Beef with broccoli? No problem. Sweetand-sour fish? My mother delicately deep-fried nuggets of cod that had been plunged into a thin pancake batter. How about chop suey? Chop what? What is that? This was where my mother drew the line.

Then, Vietnam entered everyone’s consciousness. There were anti-war protests in Appleton, where we lived, and a Students for a Democratic Society chapter at the local private college.

Even Appleton became more global, its residents more curious about what other cultures ate. My parents rejoiced when fresh ginger first appeared at the local supermarket. Bok choy, napa cabbage, bean sprouts, and scallions appeared in the early 1970s, and their dumplings became tastier, their meatballs more flavorful. The quality of our meals took a delicious leap. Pan-fried Midwestern trout heaped with ginger and scallions.

Stir-fried mu shu pancakes made with napa cabbage, bean threads, and thinly sliced supermarket tortillas.

They reconstructed my father’s childhood memories of scallion pancakes.

Their recipe differs from those I’ve seen before in two key ways. The first is in

100

MARCH 2022

its use of Crisco. Scallion pancakes are traditionally made with lard. It is important to remember that the Chinese term for scallion pancakes, cong you bing, means, literally, “onion grease pancake.”

Oil is an essential ingredient, required for texture and flavor. Crisco was the American shortening closest in consistency to what my father remembered from his childhood.

The second unusual thing about my parents’ recipe is that it requires the rolling out of two pancakes at once.

Back in China, instead of making each bing by itself, my father’s family cook would actually roll out an even larger rectangular pastry, making multiple “pancakes” at a time. Two at a time is faster. Rolling out a larger batch of dough also creates more layers, causing the pancakes to fry up even more flaky and delicious.

When my husband, a Central European American native of New Jersey, first came for dinner at my parents’ house, he asked, “Shouldn’t we eat scallion pancakes with dipping sauce?”

“You’re so Americanized!” I scolded him. We never made dipping sauce; we ate the pancakes plain, as my father’s family had. But my mother shrugged and handily concocted a dip for him with soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar.

My parents are no longer with me. My mother passed in 2014; my father died last year, having lived to 97. These days, when there are Asian markets in every small city, and carefully researched Chinese cookbooks abound, I’m aware that much of my home cooking is not particularly authentic. As a family living on the margins of the Chinese diaspora, we were among the pioneers of Americanization. For my parents, as for most immigrants, improvisation was inseparable from cultural assimilation. But improvisation could also be, as all cooks know, delicious. My parents made many failed experiments, noble and strange; they also wound up with some wonderful things to eat.

Lan Samantha Chang is the author of a collection of short fiction, Hunger, and three novels. Her latest, The Family Chao, was published by W.W. Norton in February 2022. The director of the Iowa Writers’ Workshop, she lives in Iowa City.

As a child, I loved marinated flank steak stir-fried with YELLOW ONIONS, a recipe traditionally made with scallions.

Stir-Fried Flank Steak with Yellow Onions ACTIVE 30 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN SERVES 2 TO 4

A simple marinade of Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, and a little flour helps to brown and tenderize the generous slices of flank steak, while sweet yellow onions cook just enough to soften and begin to brown without losing their bite.

1 (1-inch-thick) flank steak (12 oz.), sliced diagonally into 1/4-inch strips 3 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided 1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine 1 tsp. all-purpose flour or cornstarch 2 Tbsp. canola oil, divided 2 medium-size (9-oz.) yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch slices (about 31/2 cups) Cooked white rice, for serving 1. Toss together steak, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, and flour in a medium bowl until coated. Let marinate at room temperature 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large wok over medium-high until hot but not smoking. Add onions; cook, stirring often, until translucent and just starting to brown, about 8 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce; cook, stirring constantly, until onions absorb soy sauce, about 20 seconds. Transfer to a medium bowl. Carefully wipe wok clean.

3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in wok over high until smoking. Add beef, leaving marinade in bowl, and spread in an even layer; discard marinade in bowl. Cook steak, undisturbed, until steak is lightly browned around edges but still pink on top, 2 to 3 minutes. Return onions to wok, and toss to combine. Serve immediately with rice. —LAN SAMANTHA CHANG WINE Lush, dark-fruited Merlot: 2018

L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley

STIR-FRIED FLANK STEAK WITH YELLOW ONIONS

MARCH 2022

101

an even thickness and width (about 7 x 1 inch). Gently squeeze cut end of dough to enclose cut side by pressing exterior layer of dough together to seal. Starting with sealed end, coil log to form a tight spiral, tucking loose end under spiraled dough.

Lightly dust with flour, and cover with a clean kitchen towel.

4. Repeat rolling and shaping process with remaining covered dough portion to yield 4 dough spirals total. Working with 1 dough spiral at a time, gently flatten and roll each spiral into a 7-inch pancake.

SCALLION PANCAKES

5. Heat 11/2 tablespoons oil in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or a 14-inch wok over medium-high until oil is fragrant and shimmering. Gently place 1 pancake in hot oil.

Cook, gently pressing center of pancake to flatten as needed, until deep golden brown and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Using tongs or a spatula, remove pancake from skillet, letting oil drip off, and place on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Repeat cooking process with remaining 3 pancakes, adding 11/2 tablespoons oil to skillet per pancake and reducing heat as needed to prevent burning. Cut each pancake into 4 wedges, and serve immediately. —LAN SAMANTHA CHANG

Chicken Spaghetti Lo Mein PHOTO P. 96

ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 10 MIN SERVES 4

Scallion Pancakes ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN SERVES 4

A generous layer of vegetable shortening not only helps incorporate the fresh scallions into the dough but also creates beautiful and delicious flaky layers in Lan Samantha Chang’s scallion pancakes.

2 cups (about 81/2 oz.) plus 2 Tbsp. allpurpose flour, plus more for dusting 11/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1/2

cup plus 2 Tbsp. warm water (110°F)

2 to 3 Tbsp. vegetable shortening (such as Crisco), divided 1/2

cup thinly sliced scallions, divided

6 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 1. Using chopsticks, stir together flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Create a small well in center of flour mixture. Add 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water, and stir quickly using chopsticks until clumps of dough form. Knead until a smooth ball forms, 3 to 4 minutes. (Dough should not

102

MARCH 2022

be sticky.) Cover bowl with plastic wrap; let rest at room temperature 30 minutes.

2. Uncover dough, and divide evenly into 2 portions. Shape 1 dough portion into a ball, keeping remaining dough portion covered with a towel until ready to use. Place dough ball on a lightly floured work surface or rolling board, and flatten slightly. Using a rolling pin, roll dough away from you and back toward you into an oval. Flip dough over, and rotate 90 degrees on work surface.

Sprinkle with flour, if needed to prevent sticking, and repeat rolling process. Repeat rolling, flipping, and rotating process until dough forms a 12-inch round.

3. Using the back of a spoon, gently spread 1 to 11/2 tablespoons shortening over dough round. The shortening does not need to be evenly spread, but the entire surface of dough should be covered. Sprinkle evenly with 1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Sprinkle evenly with 1/4 cup scallions, leaving a 1-inch border. Starting at bottom of dough round, roll dough into a tight log.

Slice log in half crosswise. Working with 1 log half at a time, gently squeeze log to

Lan Samantha Chang’s family adds savory flavor to their favorite lo mein recipe with dried shiitake mushrooms, soy sauce, and Shaoxing wine. Baking the noodles with the mushroom soaking liquid and soy sauce infuses them with rich flavor, complemented by the simply stir-fried chicken, eggs, and celery that complete the dish.

4 oz. dried shiitake mushrooms (about 3 cups) 4 cups hot water (170°F) 7 oz. uncooked spaghetti 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 5 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. soy sauce, divided 6 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil, divided 1/2

tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste

2 (7-oz.) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, sliced diagonally into 1/8-inch-thick strips 2 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine 1/2

tsp. cornstarch

4 large eggs 1/4

tsp. kosher salt

2 cups (2- x 1/4-inch) celery strips 1. Place mushrooms in a medium-size heatproof bowl. Pour 4 cups hot water over mushrooms; weigh down using a small

plate to keep submerged. Let soak until mushroom caps are softened, about 30 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving 1/4 cup soaking liquid. Remove stems, and discard. Slice mushroom caps into 1/8-inchwide slices; set aside.

2. Preheat oven to 300°F. Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high. Add spaghetti, and cook according to package directions for al dente; drain. Transfer spaghetti to a 13- x 9-inch baking dish. Drizzle spaghetti with reserved mushroom soaking liquid, sesame oil, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil; sprinkle with pepper. Add additional pepper to taste.

Toss using chopsticks to evenly coat, and spread in an even layer. Cover dish tightly with aluminum foil, and bake in preheated oven 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, combine chicken, Shaoxing wine, cornstarch, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce, and 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in a medium bowl; stir to combine using chopsticks, and set aside. Using chopsticks, beat eggs and salt in a small bowl until well blended; set aside.

4. When spaghetti has baked about 10 minutes, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a wok over medium-high until fragrant and shimmering. Add mushroom slices; cook, stirring often, until beginning to brown in spots, about 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon soy sauce; cook, stirring constantly, 10 seconds. Add celery; cook, stirring often, until celery is just crisp-tender, about 3 minutes, adding remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce after 1 minute. Transfer mushroom mixture to a large bowl. Do not wipe wok clean.

Stir-Fried Iceberg Lettuce TOTAL 20 MIN; SERVES 2 TO 4

Crisp iceberg lettuce becomes tender and slightly sweet after cooking with soy sauce, a touch of sugar, and plenty of fresh ginger. The leftover cooking liquid is perfect for spooning over a bowl of white rice.

1 small (20-oz.) head iceberg lettuce, outer leaves discarded, head cored, and leaves separated 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, plus more to taste 1/2

tsp. granulated sugar

12 very thin (about 1-mm.-thick) 1- x 3/4-inch slices peeled fresh ginger (about 11/2 tsp.)

1. Soak lettuce leaves in a bowl filled with cold water 5 minutes. Drain and spin in a salad spinner until dry. Alternatively, pat lettuce leaves dry using clean kitchen towels. Tear leaves into 11/2- to 2-inch pieces; spin again, or pat dry with paper towels.

2. Heat oil in a wok over medium-high until shimmering and fragrant. Add lettuce pieces; cook, stirring constantly, until lettuce just begins to soften, about 45 seconds. Add soy sauce and sugar, stirring to coat lettuce in soy sauce mixture. Add additional soy sauce to taste. Add ginger; cook, stirring constantly, until inner lettuce leaves are translucent in spots and lettuce loses about one-third of its original volume, about 30 seconds. Remove from heat.

Serve immediately, leaving liquid in wok.

—LAN SAMANTHA CHANG

STIR-FRIED ICEBERG LETTUCE

5. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to wok; heat over medium-high until shimmering. Add chicken mixture; cook, stirring often, until chicken is no longer pink and is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Return mushroom mixture to wok; cook, stirring constantly, until warmed through, about 1 minute.

6. Remove baking dish from oven, and remove foil. Stir spaghetti using chopsticks until starch from pasta thickens any remaining liquid in baking dish. Spread chicken mixture evenly over spaghetti.

7. Add remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to wok; heat over medium-high until a drop of egg added to wok immediately bubbles up in oil. Add eggs; cook, undisturbed, until eggs begin to puff up and set along edges of wok, about 30 seconds. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until eggs are set, about 1 minute. Spoon eggs over chicken mixture, and serve immediately.

—LAN SAMANTHA CHANG WINE Red-fruited, medium-bodied Pinot

Noir: 2019 Sokol Blosser Evolution Willamette Valley

MARCH 2022

103

BACKSTORY

Girls Rule “Reach into your millionaire pockets and buy some of my daughter’s Girl Scout Cookies.”

—Chris R ock at the 2016 Oscars, asking a roomful of celebrities to chip in and support his daughter’s troop ONE CREATIVE COOKIE

which means we’re weeks away from the end of this year’s Girl Scout Cookie season. Although it runs just from January to April, the annual fundraiser sells more than 200 million boxes of cookies and raises over $800 million each year. The first cookie sales took place in 1917, five years after Girl Scouts was founded, when a troop in Muskogee, Oklahoma, baked and sold cookies to raise money. In 1922, Girl Scouts of the USA published a recipe for shortbread cookies in their magazine, The American Girl, along with estimated cost of ingredients (26 to 36 cents for six to seven dozen cookies) and a suggested price per dozen (25 to 30 cents). This kicked off cookie sales around the country, but homemade cookies could only go so far. In 1934, Girl Scouts of Greater Philadelphia started selling commercially IT’S MARCH,

baked cookies, and in 1936, the national Girl Scouts organization enlisted the help of commercial production for all troops. In recent years, the cookies have started adapting to a modern world. A gluten-free cookie launched in 2019, and all flavors were certified as kosher and halal by 2021. Now, the organization is exploring alternatives to palm oil, which helps with shelf life but has ties to child labor and the destruction of rain forests. Cookie offerings have changed each year (2022 saw the addition of a caramel brownie-inspired cookie called Adventurefuls), but three flavors have always been mandatory: Thin Mints, Do-si-dos (or Peanut Butter Sandwiches), and Trefoils (or Shortbread). —NINA FRIEND

BY THE NUMBERS

7

Number of ingredients in the original Girl Scout Cookie: butter, sugar, milk, eggs, vanilla, flour, and baking powder

1944 104

12

Year that Girl Scouts started selling calendars instead of cookies, due to wartime shortages of ingredients

MARCH 2022

Months: shelf life of Girl Scout Cookies

#1

2

Number of commercial bakers licensed to produce the cookies

Best-selling cookie: Thin Mints; Samoas (Caramel deLites) are second, and Tagalongs (Peanut Butter Patties) are third

photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

Last cookie season, when door-to-door selling wasn’t possible because of the pandemic, a Girl Scout in Enterprise, Alabama, named Lydia Plant built a cookie “vending machine” so that people could buy boxes safely. Plant sold 10,300 boxes in all, with about half coming from the vending machine. “I enjoy brightening people’s days with cookies and seeing them smile,” Plant says.

A R EC I PE TO R E M E M B E R , W I T H F L AVO R T H E Y ’ L L N E V E R F O R G E T.

M A D E W I T H M I L K F RO M G R A S S - F E D C OW S T H AT G R A Z E O N T H E L U S H PA S T U R E S O F I R E L A N D.