Flightlink’s legendary Captain Godfrey Mwela shares his story Why laidback Paje is Zanzibar’s kitesurfing capital
C APTAIN GODFREY MWELA Legend looks back on more than half a century in aviation
8 FROM DAR TO FAR
Couple take epic two-year trip by motorbike around the world
Joining up our destinations
Growing food on Pemba for people and the planet
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Why special safaris start here
THE PICK OF PAJE
What to see and do in the most laidback beach village in Zanzibar
24 HOURS IN ARUSHA
How to craft a day to remember in Tanzania's safari capital
on keeping well on
MUST-SEE MOMBASA Why Kenya's second city is its leading tourist destination
to explore more
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Foreword
Welcome onboard!
Welcome to Flightlink! We're thrilled to have you join us on this journey as we explore the wonders of travel and connect you to the world.
At Flightlink, our core mission is to provide our passengers with the safest, most punctual, and exceptional flying experience possible. Safety is paramount, and we are unwavering in our commitment to upholding the highest standards in the industry. We take pride in our on-time record, ensuring you reach your destination efficiently and without unnecessary delays. But safety and punctuality are just the foundation. Our dedicated team is passionate about creating an outstanding in-flight experience, from the moment you step on board to the time you land.
Our airline reflects our vision for travel – a vision that goes beyond just getting you from point A to point B. We believe in the transformative power of exploration, and we want to be your partner in discovering new cultures, breath-taking landscapes and unforgettable adventures.
With Tanzania’s peak safari season just beginning, this issue of Zebra Stripes explores one of the country’s most compelling destinations: the Serengeti. For many, experiencing the majesty of this Unesco World Heritage Site has often meant enduring long and arduous road trips. We propose a different approach. Flying with Flightlink is not only safer, but it's also often faster and, surprisingly, more cost-effective than driving long distances. Imagine – trading hours on the road for the breath-taking views from above, arriving refreshed and ready to embark on your safari adventure.
We hope this magazine inspires you to explore, to experience new cultures, and to create memories that will last a lifetime. We look forward to welcoming you on board and making your journey unforgettable.
Soaring to new heights.
Capt Munawer Pyarali Dhirani CPL, IR–US/Tanzania Managing Director
TRAVEL TIPS
How to pack your suitcase ready for flight
1. Make a packing list
Fail to plan, plan to fail. To ensure you don’t miss any essential items (plug adaptors, charging cables, medicines or musthave toiletries) get it down in writing first.
2. Pack heavy items near the wheels
Stick heavy and bulky items like shoes and toiletry bottles at the bottom of your suitcase. This way, when you’re wheeling your case around, they won’t squash and crease your clothes.
3. Roll your clothes
Rolling is the new folding. Generally, it's better to roll clothes because it takes up less space and allows you to pack more while reducing wrinkles.
4. Use every bit of space
Taking multiple pairs of shoes? Cancel out the space they take up by stuffing them with socks. It also protects the shape of your shoes during travel. Win-win!
5. Coil your cables
Just stuffing your phone and laptop chargers in your case will take up room and could result in essential equipment getting damaged. Wrap them up properly or invest in a multi-way cable for an all-in-one solution.
6. Stop the spillages
Opening a case to find a bottle of face cream is now moisturising one of your best blouses after the top popped mid-flight is a holiday horror. Travel-size toiletries minimise the risk or you could pack any liquids in their own plastic bag.
7. Pack a pillowcase for laundry
In addition to keeping dirty laundry away from your clean clothes, a pillowcase means no need for disposable plastic bags or purchasing a separate laundry bag.
8. Space for souvenirs
Make sure you leave enough space in your suitcase when you’re getting ready to depart. You can also help by choosing souvenirs that don't take up much space like jewellery or postcards. Secure your souvenirs by surrounding them with clothing.
MY PASSION FOR FLYING BEGAN AS A SCHOOLBOY
Captain Godfrey Mwela brings his 50 years of aviation experience to Flightlink as the airline’s Safety Manager. Here he talks to Zebra Stripes about his crucial role, his childhood dream of being a pilot and the importance of sharing his skills with the next generation.
(Q) You are Flightlink’s Safety Manager. How long have you been in that position and what does the role involve?
Safety manager, since December 1, 2018. The position involves safety of personnel and equipment in the company and compliance with Tanzanian Civil Aviation Authority for technically advanced aircraft.
(Q) I believe your time in the aviation industry goes back more than 50 years. What advice have you been able to share with Flightlink staff drawing on that long career? Safety in the company involves each and every one of us. Good situational awareness will allow us to maximise opportunities and to avoid undesirable situations.
(Q) You are retired now as a pilot. What do you miss most about flying?
I am 78 years old now. In retirement I surely miss flying to different exciting destinations and interacting with the wide variety of people I used to fly with.
(Q) You got your higher education at the Pakistan Military Academy. Is that where you first learned to fly? Why did you choose to go there and what do you remember most about that experience?
I was in Pakistan on a military training mission and flying training was done privately at Lahore Flying Club, in Pakistan.
(Q) What are some of the different aircraft you have flown in your career? Do you have a favourite?
Most of my flying experience has been with Cessna, Beechcraft, de Havilland Twin Otter, Citation Jets and Bell Helicopters.
(Q) What experience do you have of flying for other airlines?
I had mostly gained my experience while working with [charter operator] Tanzania Air Services before I joined Regional Air Services in Arusha.
(Q) What do you think are the qualities that make a good pilot?
A good pilot has to have a positive passion for flying and not just be doing the job for the benefits. Dedication, a positive attitude and self-discipline matter a lot in this respect.
(Q) When did you first make Captain? Which airline were you flying with at the time? It was in 1976 while I was at Tanzania Air Services.
(Q) Can you tell us about your most memorable flight? Why does it mean so much to you? My most memorable flight was when I flew solo in a glider aircraft. It was an exciting experience to be in the air without an instructor on board.
(Q) Was becoming a pilot a childhood dream? What is the appeal to you of flying? Yes, it was. I used to skip
A good pilot has to have a positive passion for flying and not just be doing the job for the benefits."
classes at school to watch aeroplanes come in over the water and land at Bukoba airstrip during the colonial era.
(Q) What is your favourite airport to land at and why?
I don’t have a favourite airport, but nothing beats landing in your hometown’s airport.
(Q) Flightlink is a Tanzanian airline. Is it a source of pride to be a part of a homegrown operation connecting Tanzanians across their country and beyond?
This airline is set on a dynamic course, and I am proud to be a member of this family.
Capt Mwela was born in Bukoba and as a young boy he was fascinated by the aircraft coming in to land over Lake Victoria
Capt Mwela is proud to be part of the Flightlink family
FROM DAR TO FAR:
Couple take epic two-year trip by motorbike around the world
A husband-and-wife team have just completed a round-the-world adventure by motorbike starting in Tanzania and finishing in the UK. The 770-day, 87,805 km, 42 country-trip saw the couple encounter freezing temperatures, sand storms and riots with over-night accommodation ranging from hotel beds to the floor of an Iranian police station. AnnaJoyce Mbise said the experience revealed the beauty of the world and its people, and she hopes it will convince other Tanzanians that such a marathon, multivisa journey is possible.
Above: River crossing on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Laos Left: Patrick on the Dalton Highway, Alaska
Right: Reaching the Arctic circle Far right: Anna in Salar de Uyuni, Salt Flats Bolivia
Below: Anna and Patrick in Pueto Jiminez, Costa Rica
Below Right: Anna in Salar de Uyuni salt flats, Bolivia
From the moment they were married there were three of them: the Tanzanian wife, the British husband and the German motorbike. AnnaJoyce Mbise and Patrick Carey bought the BMW F800 from their best man and soon the adventurous couple were packing the panniers for trips from their Dar es Salaam home to Tabora, into Uganda and to Lake Tanganyika and on into Zambia.
The laidback trips were a fun break from the norm and over the next four years the couple started thinking about the possibility of a round-the-world ride. Both had good, stable jobs that they loved in Tanzania – AnnaJoyce worked in international logistics in Dar while Patrick was a guide and fleet manager for a safari company in Arusha – but the passion the pair had put into their roles for over a decade was bringing them dangerously close to burn out. Two years spent exploring the world together seemed like the perfect way to refresh.
The couple did some “paper maths” and worked out a budget to stretch out their pooled savings. They also mapped out a route that would take them south to north through the Americas, first flying to Argentina and journeying all the way to Alaska. The second stage would begin in Malaysia and head east through India, Pakistan, Iran and Turkey before crossing
continental Europe to the UK. AnnaJoyce was aware that her Tanzanian passport would necessitate a hatful of advance visas so she set about getting the pre-trip paperwork in order. “I had to get all the visas ready for Canada and central America. That required supporting letters, bank statements and a lot of administration. As a Tanzanian I knew I would have to build a case to convince them. I had studied in the UK and the US and never outstayed my visas so I thought that would help. Having worked in logistics I understood the importance of patience. I was prepared to spend the day at border crossings and stay calm and not push back to authorities.”
Is such an ambitious trip possible? Well, it’s April 30, 2024, and AnnaJoyce calls me from the home of Patrick’s parents in Somerset, UK – the end point of the 770-day, 87,805 km adventure – to affirm it is. The excitement still vivid in her voice, she tells me she crossed borders into 42 different countries along the way. There were
a few isolated entry issues, but the resourceful couple found alternative routes. At its border with Argentina, Chile refused AnnaJoyce a visa. “They didn’t accept my letter of support,” she says. The couple were heading towards the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, which is in Argentina, but requires crossing into Chile to reach overland. So, Patrick was left to ride the Chilean section alone while AnnaJoyce took an aeroplane from Rio Grande to Rio Gallegos.
A near-frozen Patrick – mountainous Chile proved chilly indeed – rejoined his wife to ride together to Ushuaia.
Border crossings
There were some crossing points where the couple anticipated problems because of conflict between the bordering countries. However, while the tensions were evident, AnnaJoyce was touched by the solicitude shown by locals. “We had 15 days to get through Pakistan and Iran on our visa and we had a guide escorting us all the way. To get into Iran you must go through the Baluchistan region. It has been involved in a struggle for autonomy for decades and we had to go to Islamabad to get a letter of non-conformance to allow transit. We spent a few a couple of nights at the Serena Hotel in Quetta, Pakistan – in the Baluchistan region. Here Patrick was even escorted to fill up the motorbike with fuel. The GM and security managers were so excited to see us they gave us a guided tour of the hotel. We then rode to the border of Pakistan and Iran under escort.
We arrived at the Iran border at night and slept on the floor of the police station as we were told it was the safest place “I found Iran stunning. The people were so friendly. The Pakistanis were even friendlier. Everybody wanted you to come in and have a cup of tea with them. It was incredible.”
AnnaJoyce says while she was sensitive to the customers of these Islamic countries, she did at times miss the multi-faith harmony of her home country.
“I covered up in bike gear and rarely took my helmet off. As a foreign woman you do get stared at a lot – especially in India. I was conscious that as a woman I was never spoken to directly, everyone addressed Patrick first. I am happy I live in a country where Muslims and Christians live together.”
For all the different nationalities, races, cultures and beliefs the couple came across on their journey, the unifying quality among them was a kindness to strangers. “We were welcomed wherever we went,” says AnnaJoyce. “Argentina has some of the nicest people. They were so friendly. It was the time of the World Cup and the fans are so passionate. It was pretty cool to be in the winning country.”
The Tanzanian was also pleasantly surprised at the warm welcome while travelling through the southern states of the US. “They are kind people. You look at social media and it builds an expectation of what it’s like, but the country is so much bigger than that. We went through states such as Texas and Louisiana and everyone was curious about us, but very friendly.”
Camping in the US
Argentina has some of the nicest people. They were so friendly. It was the time of the World Cup and the fans are so passionate."
The couple packed a two-man tent but had only used it for a few nights in Argentina and Uruguay. In the US, however, the couple embraced the camping life. “Our US budget for hotels was around US$ 80 a night, but we found the quality of accommodation for that price was wanting. So we started seeking out camping
Patrick and AnnaJoyce celebrate reaching Deadhorse, Alaska's most northerly town
sites and it was so easy. Many have an honesty system, so you pitch your tent, put your cash in an envelope and put it in lock box. We camped across the USA and into Canada all the way up to Alaska’s most northerly point, Dead Horse.” While travelling in the US state of Colorado they swapped the bike temporarily for an RV motor home. “This was my idea and there was no negotiation,” laughs AnnaJoyce. “We hired a fancy one and went off grid – ‘boondocking’ the Americans call it. It was a luxury to be off the bike, to have a toilet on call and buy groceries for more than one day. I think Patrick enjoyed it.”
Other highlights of the trip included the wine-appreciating couple passing through the Mendoza region with its
thousands of vineyards as they headed north through Argentina on the famous Route 40 that runs parallel to the Andes. There was also plenty of opportunity for wine-tasting on the European leg which was capped off with a week-long stay in Reims, the unofficial capital of the French Champagne-growing region.
AnnaJoyce also singles out Laos – “I would go back there any time”, the beautiful beaches and bird life” of Costa Rica and “lovely” Brazil. “We went to see the Iguazu falls, visited Rio de Janeiro and the capital, Brasilia. We wanted to stay longer, but it was the wet season and the rain was torrential, you couldn’t ride through it. We had to cut our time there short, which was disappointing as we wanted to
see the Amazon. So instead, we went through Bolivia and saw the Amazon that way.”
The weather continued to throw up challenges. Freezing winds buffeted them in Argentina and they rode through sand storms so severe in Iran that the local news station interviewed them about their feat. “They couldn’t believe we were riding a bike in 85km winds,” AnnaJoyce says.
The only time the weather came close to breaking them, though, was in Turkey. “We’d just got across the Iran border and found ourselves in the Zagros mountains. It was snowing and the temperature dropped to -7°C. I can still feel it now. If ever I wanted to fly home, it was that day. We decided that we take a break, go back to Tanzania and begin the European leg when the spring’s warmer weather arrived.”
Health emergency
Another enforced break in the trip had occurred the year before when they were in the middle of their South America adventure. Patrick received the news that his step-sister was seriously ill in the UK. He returned to help care for her and, happily, her condition
The motorbike at the levies office in the Baluchistan, Pakistan
improved enough for the trip to be resumed.
There were fewer emergencies during the trip itself. Despite travelling through south and central American countries such as Colombia and Mexico that are renowned for civil unrest, the couple had “no scary moments”. “We took our time in Colombia,” AnnaJoyce says. “We spent close to 30 days there. It is a beautiful place. We did fly with our bike over the [drug-controlled and roadless] Darién Gap, though, to get into Panama.”
To protect their own safety on the road, the couple used the app ioverlander “to avoid sketchy areas”, says AnnaJoyce. They also kept to a rule of only riding when it was light and restricted daily distances on the bike to around 400km with at least one rest day in every three. The F800 has a top speed of 200km/h but Patrick drove carefully. The only speeding ticket they picked up during the global journey was in Tanzania, not long after first setting off.
AnnaJoyce says she rarely found the journeys too arduous and that the couple were able to communicate during the ride via headphones or they would pass the time listening to music or podcasts.
Returning to Tanzania
The bike also coped well. The F800 is a touring bike made for long journeys such as this. Fitted with a spare petrol tank, in good weather the model can cover 600 km between refuels. AnnaJoyce says: “It’s
In Brazil we went to see the Iguazu Falls, visited Rio de Janeiro and the capital, Brasilia."
a good bike. It’s fully kitted out with panniers for all our belongings and has comfy seats.” Maintaining the bike’s smooth running also revealed the affordability of some of the countries they visited. Three new tyres bought in Argentina were very reasonable – certainly compared to neighbouring Uruguay – and subsidised fuel prices in Iran meant they could fill up the bike’s tanks for under a dollar.
The only accident of note happened in Peru in December 2022 when heavy rain caused the bike to slide from under them when crossing a train track. The pair escaped with just some bruising, but the country proved to be a stressful stage in the journey with riots and political protests in the wake of the ousting of the president meaning safe border crossings were hard to find.
The bike survived the entire journey and Patrick is still using it to zip around Somerset, AnnaJoyce tells me. The couple enjoyed a week in the UK before heading back to Tanzania. “The trip has been an unforgettable adventure, but financially it has been hard. We will both have to look for jobs.” AnnaJoyce is happy to return to Tanzania. While the journey opened her eyes to other countries, it has also served to solidify what her homeland means to her. “I really missed Tanzania and its mountains and beaches. I don’t want to be anywhere else. It is interesting how much it makes you appreciate home. We have peace here and it should not be taken for granted.
“I was proud to be a Tanzanian on this journey and to prove such a trip is possible. It just requires more administration. I visited Tanzanian embassies in Brasilia and Paris. I wanted to let them know a Tanzanian is here.”
AnnaJoyce and Patrick set up an Instagram page to track their round-the-world adventure, naming it after their motorbike’s registration number. Visit @MC899BBA
Heading into the mountains in Patagonia, Argentina
The Link Connecting places
Zebra Stripes takes a flight of fancy to connect the dots between Flightlink destinations.
Dodoma
A statue of the first President of Tanzania Julius Nyerere has recently been unveiled outside the headquarters of the African Union in Addis Ababa. Nyerere becomes only the third former African leader to have this honour bestowed. If you can’t make it to Ethiopia to see the statue, there is a larger and – dare we say it? – more physically accurate monument dedicated to the great ‘Mwalimu’ in Dodoma.
Zanzibar Island
A sweet street food classic on Zanzibar is ubuyo. The sweetened, dyed baobab seeds are munched as a local treat. Everyone will know if you do give it a try with your red-stained tongue, lips and fingertips giving the game away.
Dar es Salaam
Another landmark statue in Tanzania is the Askari Monument in Kivukoni, Dar es Salaam. It was unveiled in 1927 as a memorial to the African soldiers who fought in the British campaign against the German Army in East Africa in World War I so it is coming up on its 100th anniversary.
Mombasa
If you are after a lip-smacking fruit treat in Mombasa, try some bungo. It has a sweet-sour edible pulp and lots of seeds so it is usually enjoyed in a refreshing juice. It’s a street-food favourite so give it a go.
Arusha
The Askari Monument was carved out of bronze, which was the medal Tanzanian athlete Alphonce Simbu won at the 2017 World Athletics Championships, when he finished in third place in the marathon in a time of 2 hours, nine minutes and 51 seconds. Simbu was born in Singida, but he based himself in Arusha where the running at altitude primed him for a string of international successes. 09.51.
Pemba
The fig is a nutrition staple for endurance athletes as it combines the ideal mix of carbs and fibre to provide steady, consistent energy. Fig fans include the Pemba flying fox – a massive, tawny-coloured bat endemic to the island – that emerge from upside-down slumber in the evenings to forage for the fruit.
Serengeti
East Africa is home to other marathons. One of the most spectacular is the Serengeti Safari Marathon, which is the only race of its kind that takes place in a national park. First-timers and more experienced runners are invited to book a place in the November 16 event.
Nairobi
If we are talking of marathon runners we have to mention Kenya. The country has produced many of the world’s finest long-distance runners – women and men. The country’s capital, Nairobi, showcases local talent as well as a strong international field very October with its city marathon. Last year’s winner in the men’s event was Robert Kiplimo Kipkemboi in a time of two hours, seven minutes and 38 seconds. He is, of course, a Kenyan.
Marius Dobilas / Shutterstock.com
‘PEMBA IS A MAGICAL GREEN ISLAND AND WE HOPE TO KEEP IT THAT WAY’
Like the Arabian fairy tale that inspired its name, 1001 Organic has numerous stories to tell. Its cloves, pepper, cardamom, vanilla, and cinnamon are grown in the fertile soil of the ‘Green Island’ Pemba, which has had a pivotal position in the global spice trade going back centuries. Using sustainable farming methods, the social enterprise aims to preserve the island’s vaunted natural habitats, support local communities and produce some very special spices. Here managing director Raphael Flury reveals the ‘richer, more rewarding way of growing for people and planet’.
(Q) Which spices do you grow on Pemba?
1001 Organic works with what nature has to offer us. We marry what is good for the people with what is best for the planet. Through sustainable forest farming with deep respect for nature, we are able to gently produce cloves, pepper,
cardamom, vanilla, and cinnamon of unrivalled quality.
(Q) Pemba cloves are famous the world over – what is it about the fertile soils Pemba growing conditions that give these spices a special quality? Pemba is a magical green island and we hope to keep it that
way. 1001 Organic is committed to agroforestry, nurturing our spices in the natural habitat of a forest instead of planting them in fields. The results are outstanding for both flavour and the environment. With a constant and equitable sourcing from the wild tropical forests, we can motivate farmer
communities to keep the forests and its biodiversity healthy and avoid deforestation.
Together we combine local traditional methods with diversity enhancing technology, allowing a richer, more rewarding way of growing for people and planet. This virtuous circle that benefits all is the secret of Zanzibar’s spice quality.
(Q) Why do you focus your work with smallholder farmers on the island?
The past 500 years, the spice value chain was mainly benefiting western spice traders and processors. We at 1001 Organic believe that it is time to disrupt
protect Zanzibar’s biodiversity and produce incredible flavourful spices. We believe that social impact is most effective on smallholder level hence we work with contract farmers.
(Q) How does the business model of 1001 Organic benefit the smallholder spice farmer on Pemba?
The idea is to create additional value for the rural farmer communities, protect Zanzibar’s biodiversity and produce incredible flavourful spices"
the traditional spice industry and rearrange its value chain.
1001 Organic was established as a social enterprise that applies commercial strategies to improve the financial, social and environmental well-being of its partner farmers. The idea is to create additional value for the rural farmer communities,
1001 Organic is a forest-to-consumer brand that manages the entire value chain from the forests into our spice shops in Zanzibar or online in Europe. By avoiding all middlemen, our cooperatives can benefit from better prices, complementary trainings, certifications, infrastructure, fixed prices, purchase guarantees and much more. We are a longterm partner to our farmers. Also, we keep shifting more value addition from Europe to Tanzania, which should benefit the overall economy.
(Q) Has your relationship with the Pemba spice farmers been a learning process on both sides. What do you think they have learned from you and what have you learned from them?
One hundred per cent! Our partner farmers are deeply rooted with nature and their
knowledge is unbelievable. They are well balanced and peaceful personalities. On the other hand, I try to teach our farmers some international principles that are crucial for long-term partnerships and development. Also, I try to explain the mistakes we made the last 30 years in Europe. It would sadden me repeating old mistakes like the pollution of drinking water.
(Q) You have enabled direct sales of fresh Zanzibar spices to Europe. For this the spices are certified according to European standards. What does this involve?
The European guidelines are becoming increasingly strict. We are certified in organic and social standards which requires never-ending documentation work.
(Q) Pemba is known as the Green Island and has some of
the last remaining indigenous forest on the archipelago. How motivated are you that the farms you work with support and protect the fragile ecosystem here?
The protection of the natural forests and biodiversity is one of the main pillars of our social enterprise and our clients. Together we try to apply the best possible mode of operation to keep the forests healthy and the farmers happy. Education is a key strategy.
(Q) I’m sure you have visited Pemba many times during the cloves harvesting period of September to November. Is it true the scent of drying cloves fragrances the whole island during this time? It is true. Once you leave your airplane you can sent the sweet fragrance in the air. You will find cloves literally everywhere.
Two flight every day from Dar es Salaam via Zanzibar
To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en
(Q) You have a store in Stone Town, but do you also have outlets on Pemba selling your spices?
Our organic concept stores ‘1001 Organic Spicery’ are based in Stone Town and Nungwi [on Unguja]. Beyond our flagship stores, you can find our retail spices in many boutique shops in Zanzibar and Tanzania mainland.
(Q) Has the only untouched forest left on archipelago is it very important to you that the farms support and sustain the ecosystem of the island? Zanzibar’s real estate developments are growing very fast. I am okay with that but what is a nice house without fresh air, healthy food, a green garden, the sound of birds, clean drinking water or a relaxing forest walk? It will be a very empty house. Let us focus on sustainability and protect the biodiversity and all natural resourced too. Together we can!
To shop the range and find out more about the 1001 Organic Signature Spice Tour, which guides visitors around some of the farms the social enterprise works with, head to the website at www.1001organic.com
The 1001 Organic team in Pemba
FLY WITH US TO PEMBA
A World Heritage Site teeming with wildlife Serengeti
8reasons to visit the Serengeti National Park
The Serengeti National Park is one of the world’s greatest natural attractions. Its 15,000 sq km of endless plains bear the traces of man’s first footsteps four million years ago while its bountiful wildlife sill moves to ancient rhythms on a massive scale. This is exemplified by the Great Migration in which millions of wildebeest (and zebra) follow the seasonal rains while the world’s largest population of lions lie in wait. Flightlink connects you quickly to the heart of the action. Here are eight reasons why you need to get onboard.
A World Heritage Site teeming with wildlife Serengeti
1. The Great
Migration
In the grand theatre of nature the Great Migration is a showstopper. The cycle of life for wildebeest here is a never-ending loop through the Serengeti and Kenya’s Masai Mara to the north in search of fresh grazing. It’s a journey fraught with danger with predators never far away. More than a million wildebeest – as well as 20,000 zebra – are involved each year and that strength in numbers is a big part of the animals’ survival strategy. However, river crossings find them at their most vulnerable. When the herds reach Grumeti River in the western corridor of the Serengeti there is nowhere else to go but across. The wildebeest fling themselves into the water and at the mercy of its strong currents and lurking crocodiles. Those that make it to the other side are often exhausted from the effort and easy pickings for the thousands of lions and hundreds of leopards and hyenas that wait in ambush.
3. Safari your way
If you have driven all the way to the Serengeti, chances are you’d like a break from being jolted along dirt tracks in a 4x4. But those who fly in with us will be ready to jump in the Landcruiser and explore. While exploring the old-fashioned way in a steel-canopied truck (reassuring when you are getting up close to a pride of lions or belligerent rhino) is great for game viewing there are other options such as walking and cycling safaris when you want to get off the beaten track and commune more intimately with the nature around you. Balloon safaris are a great choice to appreciate the scale of the Serengeti from their high-flying vantage point.
2. Abundance of animals
The diversity of habitats in the Serengeti from vast grasslands to acacia-studded plains and rocky outcrops mean it is home to a profuse array of animals from ‘Big Five’ headliners lion, elephant, leopard, buffalo, and rhino to hidden gems such as desertadapted antelope the beisa oryx, wild cat the caracal and the African wild dog. The park is also home to more than 500 species of bird, including the superb starling, which has stunning iridescent plumage worthy of its name.
4. The ‘Cradle of Mankind’
In the Serengeti’s southern plains lies the Olduvai Gorge, which has yielded a treasure trove of human and animal fossils, including the jawbone of an early human dated as approximately 1.9 million years old. Scientists believe this is probably the earliest evidence of the existence of human ancestors. It is widely considered as the most important prehistoric site in the world.
7. Meet the Maasai
The pastoralist Maasai tribe have been tending cattle in the Serengeti for four centuries. In their language the land is called ‘Siringet’ – ‘the place where the land runs on forever’. Having a Maasai guide for your safari or visiting a Maasai village will provide insight into the tribe’s way of life and their interconnectedness to their surroundings.
5. Photographer’s dream
With its diverse wildlife and range of dramatic landscapes, the Serengeti is a dream for photographers seeking images that capture this wilderness and landscapes. With its vast plains, diverse ecosystems, and abundant wildlife, the Serengeti offers an unmatched opportunity to capture breath-taking images that tell fascinating stories.
6. Star safari
The wilderness of the Serengeti is far removed from the light pollution of any urban centre so it offers exemplary stargazing opportunities looking up from its vast open plains. The constellations are at their clearest during the new moon period, as this is when the sky is darkest.
8. Support conservation
Did you know that the Great Migration is a sustainable natural cycle? The wildebeest’s grazing and trampling of grass allows new grasses to grow, while their waste helps fertilize the soil. Many tourists to the Serengeti also want to be protective of delicate ecosystem here and play a role in conservation efforts. Choose to stay at an eco-friendly lodge or camp that minimises waste and harnesses solar power and rainwater. Get involved in programmes that help to regenerate and preserve the environment and support local communities through sustainable practices.
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PICK PAJE for a Zanzibar beach break
Paje’s magnificent strip of white sand is made for beach breaks that stay long in the memory, but the laidback village on Zanzibar’s south east coast offers far more than just a place to soak up the sun. Here are five reasons to pick Paje.
Kitesurfing
With its steady winds and flat, shallow lagoons, Paje offers excellent kite-surfing conditions. Enthusiasts of the water sport head here during the two trade wind seasons from June to September and December to March and the kiters’ easy-going attitude is a good fit with the humble, laidback villagers. Unlike many other beach spots on the east coast, you can kite surf all day in Paje as high tide fills the inner lagoon while you can find similarly perfect flat-water, knee-deep conditions at low tide in the outer lagoon. The calm, shallow conditions are ideal for beginners while more experienced kiters can seek out freestyle thrills with high tide breaks over the coral reefs.
Diving
Zanzibar’s east coast is protected by a coral reef about one km offshore which offers excellent diving opportunities. There
are a number of dive centres on Paje Beach that will take experienced divers out to the sites or offer PADI open-water courses to prepare people for their first underwater adventures. The nearby Dongwe and Bweju areas offer gentle reef dives as well as more challenging dives.
Kizimkazi, a fishing village about 20 minutes from Paje, has a dive location with regular sightings of dolphins, a range of sharks, rays and even whale sharks during their migra tory season. Any
days too calm for kitesurfing are going to be ideal diving days with the prime time to be found between October and March when the winds start to flatten.
Nightlife
While its position on Unguja’s east coast means it misses out on the island’s most spectacular sunsets, Paje still has plenty to entertain when evening comes. Its coastline is peppered with excellent bars, restaurants and hotels that host regular events, especially during the kitesurfing seasons. With its lounge chairs spread on the sand, beach bar B4 (b4beach.club) is an excellent spot for an evening chill-out and once a week it hosts a movie night. New Jambo Bungalows (@ jambobarpaje on Facebook), a hostel with its own kite school, organises beach parties
Beachside living in Paje
every Friday while the Red Monkey Lodge (redmonkeybeachlodge.com), a 10-minute taxi ride away in neighbouring village Jambiani, runs live music event Sunday Jam Sessions featuring local and international acts.
Cycling
Paje tends to be spared the crowds that head to the beach resorts in the north of Unguja
and the relative calm of the south-east coast also means bike-friendly quieter roads and unspoilt wild nature to explore. Hotel, restaurant and social space Paje by Night (pajebynight.net) provides bikes and tours, including a challenging off-road trip into nearby Jozani Forest, home to the endemic Zanzibar red colobus monkey, as well as more sedate rides along the laidback coast with
stops including the historic village of Makunduchi with its crumbling colonial buildings. There are also organised cycle tours of Paje village itself with plenty of white sand to ride on at low tide as well as coastal caves and forest to explore.
Seaweed soap
When you are wandering Paje beach at low tide, seaweed farmers wading out into the water to tend to their crop is a familiar sight. Seaweed farming has been big business in Paje for more than three decades and an important source of income and independence for women, who make up the vast majority of farmers. Standing out in the shallows in their sky-blue smocks will be the mamas of Mwani (mwanizanzibar.com).
This local company distinguishes itself in not exporting its harvested seaweed – there is a global demand for its use in medicine, animal feed, fertilizer and even as a biofuel – but rather using it to make nutrient-rich soap and skincare products at its centre in Paje village. You can see the products being made by hand on tours of the centre. Here you can also buy and browse the Mwani range of products, which is also available at various hotels and outlets in the village.
Two
To
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Seaweed farming is a valuable source of income for many local women
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24 HOURS IN ARUSHA…
As the gateway to some of Tanzania’s most famous attractions, such as Serengeti National Park and Mount Kilimanjaro, Arusha gets a stack of visitors, but not many stick around to check out the charms of the city itself. Here Arusha entrepreneur Faysal Alao reveals some of his favourite haunts in his hometown and puts together the itinerary for a perfect day.
Morning
You have a busy day ahead so smart to start with a hearty breakfast. Kitamu Café is a cosy Tanzanian-run establishment in Goliondoi Street in the heart of the city. The menu is packed with fresh healthy dishes such as chicken and avocado wraps – the chefs are very generous with the succulent avocados, sourced from the nearby Mount Meru highlands – as well as delicious home-roasted coffee straight from the Kilimanjaro foothills. The very reasonable prices, friendly staff and free wi-fi make for a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Don’t get too comfortable, though, we have much to do.
From Kitamu, take the five-minute walk to the Arusha National
History Museum. Housed inside what was an old German military outpost, the compound has three separate buildings that are open to the public. Make sure you take in the wing dedicated to human evolution. Excavations from the nearby Olduvai Gorge, available to see here, have led the way on our understanding of man’s origins. Elsewhere there are displays on insects detailing some of the diseases they cause, the history of Arusha during the German colonial era, and wildlife photos and mounts. In the museum’s outdoor grounds there is a botanical garden, a mini serpentarium and an arts gallery.
Now you know more about the evolution of this city and its people, work your way to the famous Arusha Maasai Market. Located just beneath the huge clock in the center of the town,
this most significant tourist attraction is the best place to wrap up your morning. Once you are here, you will get the luxury of seeing the most affordable hand-crafted ornaments such as wooden animals, humans, and buildings sculptures, beaded necklaces, batik wall hangings, soapstone carvings, colourful sisal bags, Kikois, khangas, vitenges and much more. Stock up on souvenirs here.
Food market in Arusha
Photo credit: Sergey-73 _ Shutterstock.com
Lake Duluti is just a 20-minute drive away from the bustle of central Arusha
Afternoon
Just a short walk from the Clock Tower, but a world away from the traffic and noise of the city centre is George’s Tavern. Sheltered amid a canopy of trees and bushes this very quiet and calm setting is the best place to have lunch while you prepare for your next set of activities. The ambiance is suggestive of a classic Greek taverna with wooden tables and checked blue and white table cloths. The menu is extensive and covers both Greek and Italian cuisine, with a good selection of starters, main courses, pizzas, and desserts. With big portions, friendly and enchanting employees and affordable prices, this restaurant makes you feel instantly at home.
After enjoying a heartwarming experience of the city, it is now time to venture a bit further out. Lake Duluti, which is just a 20-minute drive away from the bustle of central Arusha, is the best place to spend the latter part of your afternoon. This volcanic crater lake is surrounded by a forest reserve that is home to very rare types of trees, many reptiles, water birds and also offers breath-taking views of both Mount Meru and Mount Kilimanjaro. Once you are here you can enjoy a nature walk in the forest reserve, take a canoe ride on the lake and watch a beautiful sunset fall over the city.
Evening
Lake Duluti also provides an excellent option for an evening meal. Roadside barbecues are
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known around here as ‘chicken on the bonnet’ and one of the best practitioners is Khan’s Barbecue, just moments from the lake. Here you can get mouth-watering tandoori chicken, beef skewers, mutton kebab and Zanzibar pizzas along with a variety of side dishes, including salads, grilled naan bread and French fries. The delicious food at Khan’s is no secret so be prepared to wait, but it is most definitely worth it.
On the drive back to central Arusha, stop off at the Cocoriko Club and Lounge to round off your evening. Here you can sing your night away with a karaoke session, catch a live band or a set by some of Arusha’s best DJs. This is where Arusha come to party and with smartly dressed waiters, sublime service and topnotch drinks this place is designed to make you end your 24 hours in Arusha like a proper local.
Mount Meru looms over the city
HOW TO KEEP THE FAMILY HEALTHY WHILE TRAVELLING
Family travel offers a chance to create cherished memories, yet it also presents challenges in maintaining health and wellbeing for you and your loved ones. Whether you’re embarking on a road trip or exploring far-off destinations, blogger Simone McFarlane shares tips on how to prioritise family health.
Stay hydrated with reusable water bottles
Proper hydration is crucial, especially in warm climates or during physical activities. Neglecting water intake can lead to fatigue and discomfort. Encourage your family to drink water regularly and carry reusable water bottles to reduce plastic waste and ensure they stay hydrated throughout the day. Many places now provide water refill stations, making it convenient to maintain eco-friendly and healthy hydration practices.
Opt for nutrient-rich meals and snacks
Snacking on fruit and vegetables not only keep hunger at bay but also provide sustained energy for your family’s adventures. Pack a variety of fruits and veggies in your travel cooler or backpack for nutritious snacking while on the go. Strive to find meals that incorporate a wellrounded mix of vegetables, proteins, and whole grains. The sampling of local cuisines is a delightful aspect of travel,
and you can still maintain a balanced diet while savouring authentic flavours.
Incorporate physical activities into your itinerary
Plan activities such as walking tours, hiking, swimming, or bike rides. Engaging in physical promotes health while enriching your overall travel experience. It adds adventure to your journey and allows you to connect more deeply with the places you visit.
Choose accommodation in walkable locations
When choosing your play to stay, opt for accommodation walking distance from attractions and pedestrianfriendly areas. Each day you’ll be burning calories while exploring local neighbourhoods and immersing yourself in the culture on foot.
Prioritise
sleep and rest
Maintaining a regular bedtime routine is essential, even while traveling. Changes in time
zones and busy itineraries can disrupt sleep patterns. To ensure that everyone enjoys the trip to the fullest, consider short naps during the day to keep mood swings at bay and ensure adequate rest for all family members.
Practice cleanliness and hygiene
Carry hand sanitizer and encourage frequent handwashing, particularly before meals. Travel exposes you to various
environments and surfaces that may harbour germs. Teaching children about the importance of cleanliness helps prevent illness and ensures a safe trip for the entire family.
Allocate time for relaxation and mindfulness
Don’t forget to set aside time to relax and unwind while on holiday. While travel is exciting, it can also be stressful. Taking time to relax and soak in the surroundings is essential for a mentally healthy travel experience. Whether it's sitting by the beach, reading a book, or practicing mindfulness, find activities that help you all recharge and reduce stress.
For more detail on Simone and her family’s adventures, visit shoestringparenting.com
Mindfulness with mum: families need time set aside to relax
MUST-SEE MOMBASA
Cosmopolitan, with a fascinating history and an ideal beach-side base for nearby safari adventures, Mombasa is Kenya’s leading tourist destination. Here are some essential experiences to soak up its Swahili vibe.
Stroll the Old Town
Mombasa is thought to date back to the 10th century, making it Kenya’s oldest city. Its coastal location has made it a strategic target for colonisers over the years. The many battles for control – with Oman, Portugal and Great Britain all having periods of rule – gave rise to its name with ‘Manbasa’ being derived from ‘Mvita’, the Swahili word for ‘war’. The Old Town, located on the island of Mombasa and separated from the rest of the city by Tudor Creek – is full of architectural reminders of this diverse cultural heritage such as such as the remarkably well-preserved 16th Portuguese military stronghold Fort Jesus and the Mombasa Old Town Mosque. The cosmopolitan community in this charming place is still a mix of African, Arab, British, Persian and Portuguese influence and walking the attractive narrow streets here is like immersing yourself in living history.
Bliss out on the beautiful beaches
This stretch of the Kenyan coast boasts some of the best beaches in the world with vast swathes of pristine white sands, fringed by palm trees and lapped by sparkling blue waters. The headliner south of the city is Diani Beach, a 25km flawless strip of white sand which is a regular winner of the best beach destination
in Africa and offers visitors a huge range of water sports and diving adventures. Another stunning sandy spot is Nyali beach, just a 10-minute drive north of Mombasa. Nyali is an affluent, leafy suburb filled with high-end beach-side resorts and attractions such as Africa’s largest crocodile farm and a network of coral caves supposed to bestow fertility on all who enter.
Get crafty and explore the work of local artisans
Exploring Mombasa will reveal plenty of skilled artisans in action. Head to Biashara Street for traditional kikois and kangas or visit Akamba village, just outside of the town, which has been producing generations of wood carvers for over a century. You’ll also find wood carvings, hand-printed textiles, jewellery, and leather crafts handmade by Mombasa residents with disabilities.
Take a deep dive
Since 1987 the waters of the coast here have been protected as the Mombasa Marine National Park and Reserve. With its spectacular coral reefs and diverse marine life shielded from human harm, the underwater area has become an exemplary snorkelling and scuba spot that is home to a variety of marine species including crabs, starfish, stone fish, sea cucumbers, sea urchins and turtles. Among the best dive sites are the purpose-sunk shipwrecks of the MV Dania and the MV Globe Star with
Elen Marlen / Shutterstock.com
groupers, glassfish, octopus, and lobsters making a home in the artificial reefs created by the submerged vessels.
Sample Swahili street food
The melting pot of cultures in Mombasa have been the recipe for delicious dishes that are a blend of historical influences. A great way to sample some authentic delicacies is by exploring the vibrant street food scene. Roam the streets here of an afternoon or evening and you’ll notice the vendors frying, roasting and
grilling on huge streetside jikos (stoves), which are raised and propped up by bricks or stones. Popular Swahili snacks include viazi karai – deep fried potato nuggets served piping hot with a spicy sauce – and the coconut or cardamon-flavoured doughnuts called mitai that are often accompanied by a cup of local spiced chai or the super strong Swahili black coffee kahawa.
Wildlife adventures
You can drive to see the Big Five from Mombasa. There
You can drive to see the Big Five from Mombasa. There are several wildlife reserves within reach such as Tsavo East National Park
Three flights each week between Dar, Zanzibar and Arusha.
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are several wildlife reserves within reach such as Tsavo East National Park, which has grassland habitats favoured by cheetahs and is also home to the Somali ostrich, gerenuk and the endangered Hunter’s hartebeest (hirola). The untamed Galana River and the animal-rich Kanderi Swamp are other excellent focus points for your stay. The Mombasa coast also has a number of truly amazing birding areas. A short drive north will bring you to the open savannah, woodland and wetlands of the Nguuni Nature Sanctuary, which attract many different species of bird. The Shimba Hills National Reserve is also rich in bird life with pelicans, flamingos, seabirds, doves, cuckoos, and weavers. There’s also the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary – one of three coastal refuges.
Street food in Mombasa
Elen Marlen / Shutterstock.com
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10 REASONS TO TRAVEL IN TANZANIA
Thanks for choosing Flightlink and Tanzania for your travels. Here are 10 reasons why you made the right decision.
1 | Mix of the old and the new
Tanzania is a fast-moving country that is fixed on an exciting future for its young population. Investment here has rocketed with 58 projects worth US$ 931.60 million approved in August this year. The commercial capital Dar es Salaam has been transformed into a sleek megapolis with major projects such as the Tanzanite Bridge and the soon-to-be-completed Bus Rapid Transit system helping commuters navigate the city quickly and safely. Zanzibar is also undergoing an infrastructure overhaul with record-breaking buildings in the pipeline
such as Burj Zanzibar, a sustainable project set to be the world’s tallest timber tower, and Zanzibar Domino, a huge hotel, marina and entertainment complex to be built on a man-made island just off the north coast of Unguja (Zanzibar Island). With fast-paced growth in tech and telecommunications, Tanzania is a model of modern Africa, but it still preserves its traditions from the unchanged ways of its ancient tribes, its historic Swahili trading towns that bead the Indian Ocean coast and even all the way back to the first beginnings of the ‘Mother Continent’ at Olduvai Gorge. In its mix of the old and the new, Tanzania gives visitors an insight into the real Africa.
2 | Festivals
The Tanzanian calendar is filled with celebratory events. Some are ingrained within the country’s history such as the Wanyambo Festival in January that showcases the arts and crafts of Dar es Salaam and the four-day Mwaka Kogwa festival in July and August in which Zanzibari men beat each other with banana stalks as a symbolic resolution of conflicts while the women seemingly have far more fun dressing up and singing. There are also plenty of more modern festivals that embody the country’s achievements in cinema, The Zanzibar Film Festival (ZIFF) in June; music, Sauti za Busara in February; fashion, Swahili Fashion Week in December; and sport, The Kilimanjaro Marathon in October.
3 | The leading lion destination
Not to brag, but Tanzania is home to the world’s biggest population of lions in the wild. The Serengeti has the lion’s share (sorry) with more than 3,000 but there are around 12,000 more of the big cats across the country. There are so many of them that some lions appear to have adopted quirks to stand out, such as the prides of Saadani National Park who have been known to wander onto the beach and then there’s the tree-climbing lions in northern Tanzania's Tarangire National Park and Lake Manyara National Park.
4 | Ecotourism
Tanzania’s dedication to conservation of its natural riches is well-known and well-established. It gazetted its first national park, the Serengeti, in 1951 and now there are 22 parks covering close to 30 per cent of the country’s land. In addition, a string of marine reserves protects the fragile coral reefs and diverse underwater life of Tanzania and the Zanzibar archipelago. Visitors here have plenty of opportunities to ensure their stay leaves a feather-light footprint on the
delicate Tanzania ecosystem they have come to experience. There is a large choice of safari lodges and beachside resorts that are powered by renewable energy, adhere to the country’s nationwide plastics ban, offer local, sustainable food and involve and educate the local community in ecotourism. By paying national park fees and choosing accommodation that is committed to a sustainable future through community outreach and conservation programmes, tourists can give back while travelling.
Photo creditRobin Batista / Shutterstock.com
5 | Find your thrills
Tanzania’s diverse terrain of valleys, plateaus, plains, mountains and beaches is there to be explored in all manner of exciting ways. The Usambara Mountains have a cool climate that is ideal for hikes or for more of a challenge take on the steep ascent to the crater rim of active volcano Ol Doinyo Longo. Cycling options range from city tours of Dar es Salaam to mountain biking in the foothills of Kilimanjaro or through the forests of Pemba. For more off-road adventures Zanzibar has quad bikes to hire while the island’s breezy south-east coast resort Paje is the place for kite-surfing with water sports options such as kayaking, swimming with dolphins and paddle boarding are available across the archipelago. Inland water adventures include white-water rafting along the fast-flowing Rufiji river or Nile perch fishing in Lake Victoria.
6 | . . . and chills
If you prefer a holiday that presses the pause button on the pressures of a busy life, Tanzania has plenty of tranquil escapes to get away from it all. If you want to soak up some Swahili culture, but avoid the crowds of Stone Town, head to deserted beaches of Pangani in the north or Mikindani in the south. Alternatively, head to Pemba for a select group of beachside resorts cloistered in forest and only accessible by boat for some real Robinson Crusoe feels.
Don’t forget that our coastline is a way of life to many Tanzanians and exploring will be a fascinating insight into the country"
7 | The coast is a way of life
When you’ve had your fill of swimming in the azure waters in between sunning yourself on the vanilla white sands of Tanzania’s coastal resorts, don’t forget that our coastline is a way of life to many Tanzanians and exploring will be a fascinating insight into the country. On the northern coast of Zanzibar Island, be sure to check out the boatbuilders handcrafting – not a nail is used – the wooden fishing dhows that speckle the shimmering waters. As the tide goes out also be on the lookout for the kanga-clad women seaweed farmers wading out
in the shallows to tend their crop. It’s a huge part of the blue economy here and you’ll find the aquatic superfood as a prime ingredient in a host of local beauty products sold on the islands. Fish markets are an excellent place to start the day in Tanzania. You’ll not only get to see the variety of the catch of the day, but you’ll get a feel for everyday life here amid the bustle.
8 | The best tour guides – including the President!
Whether you are getting a new perspective on Tanzania’s wild landscape on a nature walk with a Maasai guide, learning the architectural heritage behind the winding streets of Stone Town from a university student or sharing the birding knowledge of a safari guide in Tarangire National Park, you’ll know the irreplaceable quality of having a local guide. We like to think we have some of the best and we can now add our esteemed President Samia Suluhu Hassan to that list. In 2022 Mama Samia revealed some of her favourite places in her homeland to US journalist Peter Greenberg in the global hit television programme The Royal Tour. Her highlights included the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Serengeti National Park as well as the school she attended while growing up in Zanzibar.
9 | Kilimanjaro
In a country of superlatives, could this be the ultimate? In Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania has the tallest mountain in Africa and the highest single free-standing mountain above sea level in the world. Climbing to its 5,895-metre peak is an unforgettable achievement. Tanzanians have been hitting the headlines recently for some audacious ascents – including a Tanga-born athlete reaching the top in a record-breaking eight hours and 36 minutes (it takes most people between five and nine days) and Dar’s DJ Joozey, who was the first to play a gig on the top – but for most people just reaching the summit is enough. With teams of experienced local guides and plenty of prime accommodation in the mountain’s foothills to offer pre- and post-climb comfort, getting to the ‘Roof of Africa’ is unforgettable, but very achievable.
10 | It’s a foodies’ heaven
Dishes here are an aromatic delight, infused with cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper from the ‘spice island’ of Zanzibar. You can also follow your nose to the aroma of freshly brewed coffee in cafés and on most street corners. The beans – prized the world over –will be sourced from plantations in Kilimanjaro and the Southern Highlands, which coffee connoisseurs can visit on organised tours. These fertile foothills also produce the country’s bountiful fruit and legumes. Eating fresh and healthy food here is easy whether it’s grabbing a fresh coconut from a street seller – who will slice the top off the hirsute fruit, allowing you to drink the electrolyte-rich contents – or enjoying plates of traditional Tanzanian food piled high with vitamin-rich cassava leaves.
Trips Out
What to see near Dar es Salaam
Day trips from Dar es Salaam
Tanzania’s largest city has a vibrancy unlike anywhere else in the country, but a moment’s pause from its non-stop energy, there are plenty of options within easy reach. We suggest five of the best day trips for a break from Bongo.
Pugu hills
Just an hour’s drive east will take you from the car-clogged streets of Dar to the oxygen-rich forest of the Pugu Hills. The evergreen woodland of the Pugu Hills Forest Reserve and the neighbouring Kazimzumbwi forest is part of what is considered the oldest forest in the world and a longstanding place of spiritual significance to the
indigenous Zaramo people who call this part of the Tanzanian coast home. The Zaramo believe the hills here contain their deities and have placed shrines in many of the naturally formed caves here. Other cave residents include colonies of horseshoe bats, which create quite a spectacle when they leave the cave en masse at dusk to feed. There are three walking and
mountain bike trails – including one recently opened in honour of UK primatologist Jane Goodall who has done much to preserve the natural beauty here through her Roots and Shoots initiative. The trails take in the Msimbazi River that runs from its source here to the Indian Ocean as well as the reserve’s abundant and unique flora and fauna.
Primatoligist Jane Goodall set up the Pugu Forest Reserve
Trips Out What to see near Dar es Salaam
Wildlife here includes more than 80 species of bird and with the forest sharing a boundary with the Selous Game Reserve giraffes, hippos, cheetahs, elephants and leopards are occasional visitors. You can follow one trail to the highest point in the Pugu Hills, which, on a clear day, rewards the hiker with spectacular views over Dar and the ocean. The forest’s proximity to the city makes it ideal for a day trip, but if you want to stay longer, the Pugu Hills Nature Center has a small lodge with four grass-thatched cottages on poles and a camp site. Alternatively, there are a number of eco-minded travel companies that offer birding and cycling trips into the forest with the overnight camping stays.
Distance from Dar: 22 km. Need to know: The entry fees into the Pugu Hills Forest Reserve cost approximately US$ 2 for Tanzanians and US$ 30 for foreigners. Permits are available at the Department of Natural Resources or the Kisarawe Forest Department.
Saadani National Park
‘Beach and Bush’ holiday packages are a popular way of combining an inland safari adventure with some time to wind-down on the coast, usually a picturesque spot on the Zanzibar archipelago. However, Saadani National Park, as the only wildlife sanctuary in
East Africa boasting an Indian Ocean beachfront, offers an all-in-one experience where your sunbathing on the sand could be interrupted by an elephant wandering by or lions playing in the surf. At three hours’ drive north from Dar, it is possible to make a day trip of it and organise a game drive to go in search of the park’s more than 30 large mammals, including elephant, leopard, giraffe, lion, waterbuck, buffalo and zebra. Off the coast there are opportunities to see schools of bottle-nosed dolphins and in October and November humpback whales can be seen in the Zanzibar channel and Madeta Beach becomes a nesting place for sea turtles. If you would like to extend your stay, there is a choice of lodges in the park with the extra time freeing up the chance to go on a cruise on the Wami River where you’ll see crocodiles and hippos basking on its banks.
Distance from Dar: 230 km. Need to know: Entrance to the game reserve is US$20 for 24 hours.
Bagamoyo
You don’t have to fly or ferry to Zanzibar to soak up some Swahili culture if you are in Dar es Salaam. It takes just over an hour by car to get to Unesco World Heritage Site Bagamoyo. The sleepy pace of life here now – the busiest it gets is at the daily fish market – belies the town’s crucial role in centuries of East African history, but intimations
of its heyday are still to be found in the ancient architecture that remains.
Just south-east of the town are the Kaloe Ruins, the remains of a 13th century mosque marking the time when Arab traders first established themselves in the region. Central Bagamoyo, or Mji Mkongwe (Stone Town) as it’s known locally, was developed as the end point of
The Wami River
The German fort in Bagamoyo's Stone Town
Moored dhows at Bagamoyo
the trade caravan route from Lake Tanganyika and wealthy Arab traders built grand houses that lined the narrow streets and survive to this day. Among the goods sold were humans as slaves – a dark chapter of history here, but Bagamoyo was the home of much hope as a way station for European missionaries travelling inland and who did much to offer shelter and support for the enslaved. Bagamoyo’s strategic importance continued into the years of German occupation in the late 19th century when the town was the first headquarters of German East Africa. Buildings from this time such as the Old Boma (fort) still dominate the town. Walking the old town will give visitors a flavour of the melting pot of cultures that have contributed to the town’s storied history. All this and one of Tanzania’s most
beautiful beaches. Bagamoyo is definitely worth a day trip.
Distance from Dar:62 km. Need to know: Bagamoyo still has a reputation as a town that aims to preserve Tanzanian traditions. The Bagamoyo Arts and Cultural Institute – the only state-run arts college in East Africa – is focused on supporting indigenous art and dance and its concert hall is the venue for occasional performances that visitors to the town would do well to check out.
Sinda Island
Tourism has hit the Zanzibar archipelago in a big way so finding unspoilt island getaways off the coast of Tanzania is becoming more difficult. However, the exotic Sinda Island fits the bill. At just eight km
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from the south coast of Dar es Salaam, a dhow or cruise boat is all it takes to get you to this virtually deserted island. From there you can relax with a picnic on its immaculate sand or strap on a snorkel and explore the coral reefs that halo Sinda and which attract a host of marine life, including dolphins. In contrast to other beaches, this sand island is not swallowed up at high tide so you can swim all day long.
Distance from Dar: 8 km
Need to know: A small marine park fee applies.
Kunduchi Wet ‘N’ Wild Water Park
If your kids just want to be kids and have fun and you also know some adults that wouldn’t mind being kids again, heading to this water park will keep them all happy. This entertainment and leisure complex just under half and hour’s drive north of the city is the biggest of its kind in East and Central Africa. It is home to nine swimming pools as well as 38 water slides that vary from gentle rides for youngsters to stomach-sinking plunges such as the gigantic Mtundu and Korofi slides that will test even the most hardened thrill seekers. There is also plenty of cafés and bars so you can make a day of it.
Distance from Dar: 18 km
Need to know: Make sure you take you card or phone with you as Wet ’N’ Wild runs on a cashless service.
Saadani sunset, where sea and safari combine
Leopard is one of the big 5 to be found in Saadani National Park
Why the DAR DERBY is one of Africa’s most fiercely fought footballing rivalries
One of Africa’s most enduring footballing rivalries is contested at the Mkapa Stadium in Dar es Salaam. The Kariakoo derby pits neighbours Simba SC and Yanga SC, the biggest teams in Tanzania, against each other. Tumaini Nyika, a local tour operator who organises match day experiences for visitors to the city, reveals why each time the two teams meet it is far more than just a game.
Mpaka is the home ground for Dar clubs Simba SC and Yanga SC, the two oldest and most successful clubs in Tanzanian history. When the teams play each other in the Tanzanian Premier League it is always a sell-out and such an eagerly anticipated event that there will be weeks of pre-match banter between the loyal fans of each team.
Both teams are not only from Dar, but also the same bustling neighbourhood near the city centre: Kariakoo. They were also formed within a year of
each other with Yanga (short for Young Africans) founded in 1935 when players in Dar grouped as Africans by the colonial administration decided to form a football club to compete in a league which was full of “non-African” football clubs. A run of poor results, led to in-fighting within the club and in 1936 a breakaway group formed their own team, then called Queens, but in time to become Eagles, then Sunderland, before, in 1971, being renamed Simba.
The two teams have been rivals ever since and have established themselves as the premier outfits in the country, especially after the establishment of the National League (now the Premier League) in 1965, with Yanga and Simba both winning a host of trophies.
Trophy tally
Yanga has the advantage when it comes to domestic titles, having been crowned league champions 30 times and being multiple winners of the Nyerere Cup, Fat Cup, Tusker Cup and Community
Shield, making it the most decorated club in Tanzania. Simba is not far behind with 22 league titles, but has a more impressive international record, having won the East and Centra Africa-spanning CECAFA Club Championship (now the Kagame Interclub Cup) six times and has reached the quarter finals of the CAF Champions League in each of the last two seasons.
No wonder, then, when these teams face off it is such a big deal. Match day is a raucous event with excitement levels reaching fever pitch long before kick-off with groups of rival fans – dressed either in the red of Simba or the yellow and green of Yanga – congregating at pre-arranged points in the city to party, dance and sing in support of their teams. Dar es Salaam may be one of those cities that never sleeps, but it certainly stops for the 90 minutes of the Kariakoo derby. Those who are not lucky enough to have a ticket for the game will meet at bars and cafes and crowd around TVs there to show their support. It’s a similar picture at other
major cities across Tanzania. No matter what team you support, if you’re a football fan the Kariakoo derby can’t be missed – it’s the biggest fixture in the Premier League’s calendar.
Pan-African renown
The game’s renown extends across Africa where it has become one of the most talked about footballing encounters on the continent rivalling other massive encounters such as the Soweto derby (Orlando Pirates and Kaizer Chiefs) in South Africa and the Mashemeji derby (between AFC Leopards and Gor Mahia) in Nairobi. Football fans come from across the continent to watch the match
(Top left) Both teams hail from the inner city Dar neighbourhood of Kariakoo
With
60,000 seats, The Benjamin Mkapa Stadium is the largest of its kind in Tanzania and hosts the national team’s home games. There is, however, only one fixture that can guarantee that every one of those seats is filled and that is the Kariakoo Derby.
at Mkapa. It is the Dar match’s pan-African appeal that has led Tumaini Nyika, the founder of Tanzanian sustainable travel company Kwazi Tours, to devise a match-day tour package for visitors to the city that gets to the heart of what the event means to people here.
Match-day tour
“The tour’s itinerary is made up of three main activities,” he says. “Pre-match, visitors will be taken to five popular spots in the city where fans congregate so they can engage with local communities and see the celebrations and dances close up.
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“We will also narrate the history of these two clubs and visitors will get an appreciation of just how high a regard these teams are held in and how important this fixture is. They will learn why the whole country and even the rest of East Africa is brought to a standstill when the match is on. The fans believe their teams are unbeatable and a bad result can result in one of the team’s coaches being fired.”
Tumaini and his expert team will also explain about the two clubs’ membership structures,
which mean that supporters are the majority shareholders and so have a decisive say in the running of the teams.
“We will explain about the ruling structure of the clubs and how they are still owned by the members along with the large involvement of the Tanzanian government,” Tumaini says.
The aim of the tour, which will include tickets to the game itself, is, Tumaini tells me, to “sell the unique experience which comes out of this derby”.
For more information about the Kariakoo Derby Experience tour and how to book a place, visit kwazi.co.tz
Competition
Win with Zebra Stripes
Last issue's prize winner Shabnam Nanji
Last issue's quiz winner Mohammed Hamid
Shabnam wins a night's stay and evening meal for themselves and a guest of their choice at Amans Kilimanjaro Villa. Look out for a new competition in the next issue. Congratulations to Mohammed
Hamid for answering all of the questions correctly and thank you for flying with Flightlink
Mohammed says: “Thoroughly enjoyed the flightlink flights from MSA Dar return. Smooth without any hitches!”
Earn your stripes Flightlink quiz
Take on our challenging quiz
We know our Flightlink customers are smart – after all, you chose to fly with us – but just how smart? Well, here’s the test: 10 questions to occupy your minds while you fly. If you know all the answers, that’s impressive, but don’t despair if you don’t because you’ll find them all within the stories in this issue of Zebra Stripes.
Once you’ve got your 10 answers, email them to competitions@landmarine.org along with a picture of yourself on your flight and a few words on your Flightlink experience and you may find yourself in the next issue of Zebra Stripes (we’ll contact you ahead of time so you don’t miss out on your moment of fame).
Here are the questions! Bahati njema! (good luck!)
Here are the questions!
1
What two Tanzanian football teams contest the Kariakoo derby?
2
Which Tanzanian national park has the largest population of lions in the wild?
3
What is the name of the only river in the Serengeti that is the scene of the dramatic Great Migration crossings?
4 What is the name of the 16th century Portuguese military stronghold in Mombasa’s Old Town?
5
Which popular neighbourhood of Dar es Salaam is the Colosseum Hotel located in?
6
How many countries did Tanzanian AnnaJoyce Mbisi visit on her round-theworld motorbike ride with her husband Patrick?
7
What is the discount offered if you book flights through the Flightlink app?
8
In which months of the year does the cloves harvesting period take place on Pemba?
9
How long has Flightlink’s Safety Manager Captain Godfrey Mwala been working in the aviation industry?
10
0 How many passengers does Flightlink’s Twin Engine Turbo Prop the ATR72-212 seat?
Our destinations
The Flightlink network
Our growing network includes six Tanzanian destinations and is now international with the recent additions of Mombasa and Nairobi (planned) in Kenya. Here’s a brief guide to each to help you plan your next trip with Flightlink.
Dar es Salaam
Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘city of peace’ in Arabic) is Tanzania’s largest city and its commercial capital. Located on the Indian Ocean, Dar is the third fastest growing city in Africa and home to a thriving arts, music and food culture.
Zanzibar
Zanzibar is an archipelago of more than 47 islands off the east coast of Tanzania. Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island) ‚ Pemba and Mafia are the main islands and attract visitors from all over the world. The islands are known for their rich history, spectacular beaches and diverse marine life. Zanzibar Island is just a 20-minute flight from Dar es Salaam and is famous for its historic port Stone Town, which is home to a cosmopolitan community shaped by centuries of trade with the Middle East, Europe and Africa,
Arusha
Arusha in northern Tanzania is the gateway to the world-famous national parks of the ‘Northern Safari Circuit’. It is also the place from where hikers set off to ascend Mount Kilimanjaro. Getting to the top of ‘Kili’, as Africa’s highest peak is affectionately called, is a bucket-list experience for
climbers the world over. With close to 760,000 inhabitants‚ Arusha region is one of the most developed in Tanzania‚ not only due to its tourism infrastructure‚ its business community‚ but also because the city serves as home to the diplomatically important East African Community.
Seronera (Serengeti)
One of Africa’s seven natural wonders, the Serengeti National Park covers an area of over 30,000 sq km and boasts massive wildlife populations, including the Big Five. It is best known for its Great Migration in which herds of more two million wildebeest, zebra and antelope and their predators/dependents move from the Ngorongoro region in the south east‚ westwards into the Serengeti and then north over the border into the Masai Mara and back again in a cyclical search for green pastures to feed on.
Pemba
Pemba‚ often referred to as ‘The Green Island’, is part of the Zanzibar archipelago‚ and is renowned for its lush‚ tropical landscapes‚ including dense forests‚ spice plantations‚ and pristine beaches. The island offers a quieter‚ more
authentic experience compared to its larger, more developed Zanzibar Island. Visitors can explore historic ruins‚ vibrant markets‚ and traditional Swahili culture. Pemba is famous for its thriving spice trade‚ particularly cloves. Diving and snorkeling enthusiasts are drawn to the crystal-clear waters surrounding Pemba‚ which host a diverse marine ecosystem‚ including coral reefs.
Dodoma
Dodoma has been Tanzania’s political capital since 1996 and is located in the nation's central region. It serves as the administrative hub‚ housing the National Assembly and the State House‚ the President's official residence. The city's strategic central location enhances its accessibility‚ promoting unity among Tanzanians from various regions. Dodoma
The 'green island' of Pemba is renowned for its pristine beaches
Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's commercial capital Kehinde Temitope Odutayo / Shutterstock.com
www.flightlink.co.tz
has experienced urban development‚ with improved infrastructure and a growing private sector. It is culturally diverse‚ surrounded by tribal communities‚ and offers a glimpse into Tanzania's rich heritage. Dodoma's picturesque landscapes‚ including nearby Kondoa Rock-Art Sites‚ contribute to its appeal.
Mombasa
Kenya’s oldest city and second largest after Nairobi is the gateway to the magnificent beaches of southern Kenya and the Mombasa National Marine Park. Nearby beaches such as Kilifi‚ Watamu and Diani are among the most beautiful of the East Africa coastline.
Nairobi (planned)
Nairobi‚ the capital and largest city of Kenya‚ is a vibrant and dynamic metropolis. It serves as the political‚ economic‚ and cultural centre of Kenya‚ and it's known as the Green City in the Sun due to its pleasant climate and lush greenery. It boasts a mix of modern skyscrapers and colonial-era architecture. It is the only capital city in the world with a national park in it. Here you can see wildlife roam against a backdrop of the city’s spectacular urban skyline.
Our fleet
Our current five-strong fleet is a carefully selected range of aircraft chosen for their excellence and safety‚ ensuring our passengers enjoy a comfortable and secure flying experience. We invest heavily in ongoing maintenance‚ training and technology to ensure our aircraft are maintained to the highest standards and operated by experienced professionals. Furthermore‚ we continually evaluate and update our fleet to ensure we are at the forefront of aviation safety and efficiency.
ATR72-500
Number in fleet: Two Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 72 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 275 knots per hour (510 km/h)
One Beechcraft 1900C
Number in fleet: One Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 19 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 284 knots per hour (526 km/h)
Cessna Grand Caravan G1000
Number in fleet: Two Single engine turbo prop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 13 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 185 knots per hour (343 km/h)
Map Our routes
KENY A
Serengeti Airstrips
Fort Ikoma Kogatende
Seronera
New Routes (coming soon)
Nairobi Airports
Jomo Kenyatta International AIrport
Wilson International Airport
T ANZ ANIA
Mombasa
Pemba
Zanzibar
Dar es Salaam
Dodoma
Kilimanjaro
Arusha
Serengeti
Nairobi
Flightlink Information
Contact us
Mezzanine Floor Room 002‚
Oyster Pearl Galleria‚
Chole Road Masaki‚ PO Box 2858
Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania
Email: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz
Dar es Salaam
24/7: +255 782 354 450
HQ: +255 22 211 2993
Airport: +255 782 354 448/9
Email: sales@flightlink.co.tz
Email: reservations@flightlink.co.tz
Email: dar-reservations@flightlink.co.tz
Arusha Airport
+255 689 141 356 / +255 757 726 977
Zanzibar Airport
+255 777 747 400
Dodoma Airport
+255 749 611 311/ 611 711
Email: dodoma@flightlink.co.tz
Mombasa Airport
+254 715 44 00 82
Email: reservations.mba@flightlink.co.tz
Pemba Airport
+255 772 712 123
Travel Information Reasons to fly with us
About us
Established in 2001, Flightlink is a Tanzanian-owned airline, fully licensed and certified to operate in both Tanzania and Kenya. Our core objective is to facilitate convenient travel, bridging the gap between major international airlines and domestic or safari destinations within Tanzania.
Principles
At the heart of our operations are three key principles: safety, punctuality, and exceptional customer service. We are deeply committed to upholding stringent safety standards, ensuring that our passengers reach their destinations both safely and on schedule. Our focus on quality service aims to make every journey with us a memorable experience.
Our Mission
Our Mission is to provide our passengers with travelexperiences that meet the highest standards of safety, punctuality, and outstandingservice.
Our Vision
Our Vision is to establish Flightlink as the safest and most reliable airline in the East African region.
Safety standards
Safety Standards are one of Flightlink’s core values‚ and it is the heartbeat of our operations. We are committed to maintaining and improving high levels of safety‚ and to nurturing a safety culture throughout our operations. Our operations conform with EASA‚ FAA‚ ICAO and TCAA standards with strict periodic safety oversights by TCAA.
Flight link has earned its reputation for operating most environmental and fuel efficient regional aircrafts (ATR-72-500‚ Twin Engine Turbo Prop) with generous stand up cabin space whose result are comfort and safety that translate into our success story and market share.
Our Safety Management System (SMS) is guided by International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) standards and its recommendations practices. It fully meets and approved by the regulatory requirements of the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA).
Larger aircraft, stand up pressurized cabin, 2 pilots with 2 cabin crew
1 pc of 20Kg check in baggage allowance free of charge
5Kg hand baggage allowance
Free on board snacks & drinks on selected routes
Book, pay and check in online with our Flightlink App
Accept payment is all major currencies and cards
LIPA number and mobile payment accepted
Convenient & timely connections to the Tourism Circuits
