LAB A4 #2LOVEIS by LAB GALLERIE ®

LAB

L TAYLOR FUCHS iSSUE 3

BY CHIUN KAI SHIN

真爱 oveis issue

LAB

L ANDREA PRETI iSSUE 3

BY CHIUN KAI SHIN

真爱 oveis issue

LAB

EDITOR CHRIS CHENG ART DIRECTOR THI NGUYEN DEPUTY EDITOR DR. RUEN CHIEW EDITORIAL CO-ORDINATOR ASKA YOKOYAMA CONTRIBUTING EDITORS CHIUN KAI SHIH, LEON YUAN, CLARISSA MORALES, GEORGI GEORGIEV, FERNANDO BARRAZA, PAUL MAYBURY, CHAD LEON, PAT SUPSIRI, IAIN DAWSON, ROHAN STEPHENS, CARLA ROBINSON. ASSISTANTS DANNY DANIELS,WILLIAM WANG, MICHAEL HARDGROVE, LAURA BECK, NICK GASCOINE, ROHAN & ZANI. CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/ CREATIVE/ TALENT/ AGENTS CHIUN KAI SHIH, JUSTIN VIOLINI, MARTIN DE COURTENAY, CHRISTOPHE SANCHEZ-VAHLE, NEALE WHITAKER, BART HESS, FRANK VERKADE, SONNY VANDEVELDE, ARRON STRAUP COUP, MICHAEL BARR, SUE RAINGER, NATALIE COULTER, TOM O’CONNOR, TAYLOR FUCHS, ANDREA PRETI, DEBBIE HSIEH,YUKIKO TAJIMA, ALEX MUCCILLI, JO CANDELARIA, LUKE NICHOLSON, KRISTYAN LOW, MICHAEL PYKE, ANDREW LAUTERSTEIN, MATT ABOOD, CLAYTON CHENG, MICHELLE PATERSON, LYNDI SALES, DIANA HYSLOP, MELANIE CLEARY, HEATH NASH. DEDICATED TO THE PEOPLE OF AMERICA & CANADA, VICTIMS OF HURRICANE SANDY, YOU ARE IN OUR THOUGHTS AND PRAYERS. AND TO OUR WONDERFUL FRIENDS IN NEW YORK, LOS ANGELES.

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CONT ENTS

LAB

MILAN TREND 006 PARIS TREND 010 BACKSTAGE 014 THE MODEL MAKER 032 THE BELLO VISTA 040 THE COLLECTORS 048 A ROAD TO AVENUE 050 NEW MODERN 052 OLE CLASSIC 062 LENSE YOUR MIND 074 NOMA 082 LOVE ITSELF 086 DIOR HOMME 106 CONVERSATIONS 118 A CLOSE SHAVE 124 SKIN WARS 130 FACE FORWARD 132 THE RUNAWAYS 148 RADAR 164 GEN SPORTS 168 AERTIME WITH TAYLOR FUCHS 176 AERTIME WITH ANDREA PRETI 182 IDEOLOGY 188

MILAN TREND

BOTTEGA VENETA

CALVIN KLEIN

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FALL/WINTER 2013

DOLCE & GABBANA

GUCCI

D SQUARED²

MILAN TREND

MONCLER GAMME BLEU

BURBERRY PRORSUM

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FALL/WINTER 2013

NEIL BARRETT

PRADA

VERSACE

PARIS TREND

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

DIOR HOMME

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FALL/WINTER 2013

SAINT LAURENT

LOUIS VUITTON

RICK OWENS

PARIS TREND

COMME DES GARÇONS

LANVIN

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FALL/WINTER 2013

DAMIR DOMA

GIVENCHY

MAISON MARTIN MARGEILA

BACK STAGE

MENS FASHION WEEK AW 2012 MILAN - PARIS PHOTOS SONNY VANDEVELDE

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BOTTEGA VENETA

D SQUARED²

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VERSACE

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

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BURBERRY PRORSUM

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

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DOLCE & GABANNA

GUCCI

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CALVIN KLEIN

DAMIR DOMA

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DRIES VAN NOTEN

RICK OWENS

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LOUIS VUITTON

MUGLER

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GIVENCHY

DIOR HOMME

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LANVIN

THE

MODEL MAKER GM OF CHADWICK MODELS, MARTIN DE COURTENAY TALKS TO MENS DIRECTOR OF NY MODELS, CHRISTOPHE SANCHEZ-VAHLE ARTICLE MARTIN DE COURTENAY & CHRISTOPHE SANCHEZ-VAHLE PHOTOS NY MODELS MANAGEMENT & MODELS.COM

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MD: How did you get into the industry? What is your background? CSV: I guess I was really was in the right place at the right time. Like so many things in life! A friend who worked in London as an agent invited me to Paris for Fashion week. I spent a surreal week, attending beautiful fashion shows, heading backstage to grab these ethereal supermodels and then heading on to the next show in a mad dash of beauty and excitement. The evenings were spent in luxurious restaurants surrounded by glamourous designers, models and editors as well as other agents. Some I knew because of going out socially in London. It was very frantic, social, beautiful and above all exciting and I knew I had to be a part of it. My background in finance seemed like another dimension. It was my friend who suggested that with my languages, social skills and my affinity for fashion, that I should try becoming an agent. He knew Premier in London were hiring. I had an interview but all they could offer as I had no experience was an internship. Luckily for me after 4 hours as an intern, they offered me a job as an agent to start the next day. The rest is as they say is history! MD: You lived and worked in London for many years and now in New York. How do the two cities differ in terms of the modeling market? CSV: London is such a creative and inspiring place that gave us the likes of such iconic designers as Vivienne Westwood, Alexandre McQueen and super stylist such as Nicola Formachetti. Fashion in London is viewed almost as an art and with that goes all the imagination. London really pushes the boundaries and as such the models also push the boundaries of the aesthetic. Tattoos, gender blurring, etc…have all been welcomed and revered in London. Creatively everything is possible in London NY I would say is a bit more commercially minded. The higher rates are here and therefore some of the best talent in the world move to NY. Most of

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the biggest models and photographers end up in NY because they know that the American budgets, by sheer size of the market, are higher. Fashion here is very much a business having to respond to market forces often dictated by middle America who have again by volume, a loud voice. We can see this by the expansion of brands such as Gap, J.Crew , Abercrombie. So agencies and models have to respond to these needs and have say a bit more of a classic edge rather than say the skinny, tattooed androgynous model that has been so prolific in London. Having said all that I can see, having worked in both a slight shift in the NY market as clients are requesting more and more the slightly edgier more editorial looking models. Watch this space lol MD: Do you have a particular aesthetic? Has your aesthetic changed since you moved back to the US? CSV: I always thought I didn’t have a particular aesthetic but it was pointed out by someone that I tended to go for big pouty lips, light eyes, blue/ green, dark haired, toned body but having said that I have to respond to client demands so have to have my trendy edgier boys as well. Having a good mix so you can respond to any client need is what I aim for and sometimes anticipating what they need by having a little hidden gems that are in development. Interestingly enough, that more classic aesthetic is quite easy to find here in the US. As my clients are international however, from Givenchy to Dior I have to keep the appeal broad. This is where I have to put my personal taste aside and recognize the need for something else. MD: Has the global financial crisis, weaker retail sector and rise of internet based sales had an obvious affect on the industry? Is the industry immune - since there will always be campaigns that need to be cast - or will the industry have to change with the times? CSV: The industry has really changed dramatically over the last few years. So many factors have contributed to its changing face, from the increase

MY INSPIRATION

TOM FORD

PARIS

and use of Photoshop to the internet which has really made the industry a global one. It really is a double edged sword. You have his proliferation of models from all over the world who now have access to the industry and vice versa which have over the years really driven the rates down. If one model is not prepared to do a job there are one hundred others waiting in the wings to do the job. Fighting for higher rates is a skill and of course having that higher quality model helps. On the flip side using the internet has given us as agents access to a wider net of clients worldwide and a speed with which to secure jobs that we never had before. Within minutes you can get a video, digitals and a portfolio to a client all across the world which was unimaginable in years past. More often than not models donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even cast anymore for the bookings. Of course the retail sector, having changed itself from a catalogue to an ecommerce based industry has greatly affected our industry.

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Images often disappear quickly as stock gets depleted and of course the shoots increase as retailers get items out faster and faster. These E-retailers are seeing increase in profits in a flagging economy which have been unprecedented. Luckily our industry is very much image driven and campaigns still survive and thrive. They are still the designers showcase so that investing in them, whether it is with the right team, photographer, stylist and model. These are still all key in determining success as these images and now videos can be promoted via social media, again increasing the visibility of the brand and driving sales. The internet has changed the industry but all in all it has made it very exciting and even more fast paced than ever. As an agent, you have to be aware of this and embrace it if you and your models are to succeed! Â MD: Who do you think are the boys to watch? Do you predict anyone in particular will be a star?

CSV: Would it be too obvious if I chose my own boys as models to watch? Adam Bates, Joe Collier, the twins, Jordan and Zac Stenmark, Joseph Ferns, Matt Watters, Satoshi Toda, and Mark Westinghouse, Mantas. These are boys that have all done extremely well during this last show season and you will be seeing a lot more of them in the next round of editorials and campaigns. If you still need convincing, follow me on Twitter, @christopheagent for regular updates. MD: In years gone by a male model’s career could n years gone by a male model’s career could last well into their 40’s. But do you think career longevity is something of the past for male models these days? Is it all about the new face? CSV: Longevity for male models really depends on how they look. You have on one side the editorial, thin very strong looking kid that is say of the Prada, Jil sander type that have a great run with stunning magazine shoots and campaigns. These are the

more image boys. Clients of this caliber are forever requesting the latest new face that has been yet unseen. An unveiling of a new face in conjunction with their new collection is what will make the press and excite the industry. On the other side you have the classic looking guy, very handsome, boy next door with a great body and very approachable look. He can sell and item of clothing to the masses because he is non threatening, your guy next door. As he is classic, he can appeal to a wider range of clients and really stretch the life of his career well into his 40’s and even 50’s. Who doesn’t love a silver fox? The key is often finding that one huge successful face that is a cross over. Equally successful at both types of modeling. A lot harder to achieve but when it happens, it really is a great success story for the model and agent.

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MD: All time favourite male models from any particular era? CSV: Jon Kortajarena which I was fortunate to look after when I was in London. He really has that chameleon like quality to transform himself and give these looks that really jump off the page. This really has been key to his success. He is fearless. And of course to top it off, he is by far one of the most professional and sweetest models out there. MD: What does the average day involve for you? CSV: My typical day is thankfully never typical which makes my job so exciting. I’m usually up early and hit the gym for about an hour around 7. I try to get it out of the way as my evenings can be so unpredictable so I plan for the unexpected. I usually read my emails on my way to the agency as I often deal with European clients that are in a different time zone so responding quickly is crucial. Always making suggestions for upcoming shoots has to be done ASAP and this goes on throughout the day and sometimes well into the night. In at the agency and at my desk by 9, answering a battery of emails and putting out small fires, chasing models when they are late and touching base with clients on how shoots from day before went. I also make time to go through the various current magazines, I-D, Vman, 10men, etc..to keep abreast of what is going on in the industry. Who are the models every is shooting? Who are the new photographers on the scene? The magazines are also a great source of inspiration for new clients, from new editors to new campaigns. Lunch is either at my desk still plowing through my incessant emails or going out to lunch with a client or model.

I usually end about 6:30 and then there is always some fashion event to attend. Whether it be a photographic exhibition or store launch, there is always some place to bI like to support everyone as much as I can as often as I can. MD: Working as an agent can be pretty much 24/7 – particularly in a place like NYC. What do you do to escape? CSV: It’s funny that being an agent is never really about a job or even a career but rather a lifestyle. You really do have to live this industry as it surrounds you every single day. Every day I see a new label that I had not seen before, see a face that I think,” could they be a model?”, or see someone on the street whose style intrigues me. Escaping is never rally an option lol.. You really have to accept it and embrace it. The modeling industry is such an amazing one. I have met some incredible people that are as equally creative as they are crazy! It makes for an exciting, unpredictable life. I would have never thought as a kid growing up that I would have had the experiences that I have had, from living in London to now NY. It’s this excitement and unknown that drives me. For now I am at NY models looking after some great models in a fantastic city with so much to explore. Can I predict where my life will take me? I don’t honestly know but that’s what makes it so exciting! CSV

The success in this business is partially founded on strong relationships. Clients and models have to learn to trust you, so they need to get to know you. I find that always works best outside the agency in a more friendly environment. I usually reserve the afternoon for seeing potential models and working on updating our model’s books and images. It’s very important to highlight the best of the best and really showcase our models. This is also where social media comes in. A necessary tool these days to help promote the models’ most recent campaigns and editorials.

WE TAKE A MOMENT TO DISCOVER THE VIEWS OF BELLE MAGAZINE EDITOR NEALE WHITAKER ARTICLE LAB GALLERIE PHOTOS BELLE & NEALE WHITAKER

BELLO I

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O ISTA 41

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LAB: Can you tell us some background and when you decided on a design career & lead to the post of Editor with Belle?

LAB: If we could teleport you in time, what time period and country would you consider to visit and why?

NW: My career has taken many twists and turns to get where it is now! From the dynamic London fashion scene of the 1980s (where I was a publicist), through to the world of magazine publishing in both London and Sydney. I never decided on a design career but made a conscious decision to focus on a publishing career almost 20 years ago. I’ve always edited magazines in the lifestyle area and when I was offered the opportunity to edit Belle in 2006, I jumped at the chance. It’s an amazing brand with 40 years of heritage behind it. I’ve immersed myself in the world of interior design ever since.

NW: Take me to LA and Palm Springs in the 1950s. With maybe a side trip over to Honolulu. I love everything about that era – it’s technicolour optimism, modernist design, clothing, graphics, movies. Of course there was a dark side to that era politically, but we’re talking interior design. As is so often the case, the glamour and optimism were almost certainly a foil to great uncertainty and austerity in post-war America. But man, it was glamorous!

LAB: We often hear of great design - transcends time /culture and disciplines. What constitutes great design in your view? NW: There would be many conflicting views on this and I’m just one voice, but for me simple design is the most enduring , and design that respects and understands function. I’m assuming that we are talking about furniture design, as my response would be different if we were discussing architecture or interior design, but when you look back at designs that have genuinely transcended time, culture and discipline – Eames, Jacobsen, Noguchi, Knoll, Miller and Saarinen, through to modern masters like the British Matthew Hilton – it’s the craftsmanship, simplicity and form that resonate.

LAB: Can you share with us, what you feel the main differences seen over the past decades. Recapping some of your favourite trends and least? NW: Superficial trends come and go, as they do in fashion. We’re on the verge of a ‘Great Gatsby’ moment that will be fleeting. The important shift in the last few years has been towards a greater understanding of sustainability in design and a respect for craftsmanship and authenticity. There’s also a sense of experimentation and self-expression that is really energising. We’re clashing cultures, styles, textures and colours with confidence. When I arrived in Australia in the 90s there was a very homogeneous quality to interior design. You either bought into ‘the look’ or you didn’t. Thankfully, that’s all changed. But there will always be a counter trend. While we may value authenticity, sales of replica furniture have never been stronger!

LAB: Fashion trends are cyclical, does this extend over into Architechture/interiors/lifestyle also? NW: Yes, to an extent. Less so with architecture. But as with fashion, each time a trend returns it gets modified. The current trend for eclecticism, self-expression and experimentation is, in my opinion, a direct response to the uncertain economic and political times we’re living through. LAB: Moving forward, what do you feel is important in for the future to sustainable practises and any outstanding international and local talent to watch which practise this ideology? NW: Australia will definitely be playing a role. I currently have my eye on Supercyclers, a collective of Australian designers who recently exhibited at the cutting-edge Ventura Lambrate during Milan Design Week. LAB: If you had to sing at karaoke, which song is your anthem? NW: Seriously? In my head I’m Michael Buble so it would have to be anything from the Sinatra songbook. But maybe it should be Cher’s big number from Burlesque – ‘You Haven’t Seen the Last of Me’. Because you haven’t! LAB: Any mentors which have played key roles in your life and mottos which you live or work by? NW: I don’t live by any motto but I’ve certainly had mentors and role models in my career. A wonderful journalist called Felicity Green was my career mentor in the UK, and professionally I have always respected the unparalleled influence of Terence Conran. To my mind he invented the concept of ‘lifestyle’. The symbiosis between home, food, design, retail, travel and leisure. In terms of publishing I greatly admire Tyler Brule’s chutzpah and vision. NW

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6. 3. IN AN OUTDOOR ROOM WITH A VIEW, WE SHARE THE THINGS THAT INSPIRE THE ICONIC TASTE MAKER OF BELLE MAGAZINE, NEALE WHITAKER

1 & 2. Favourite Belle covers are the two most recent: June/July 2012 (Luxe issue) and Aug/Sept 2012 (International issue) 3. Man about town c.1982: going through my Kid Creole phase 4. i-D Magazine: my first magazine job as a roving reporter in 1984 (this was the actual first issue I worked on) 5. Publicist Lynne Franks: my first boss and one of the most influential women in fashion in London in the 1980s 6. My Weimaraners and me: Oliver (left) and Otis (right)

7. Browns South Molton St, London: where I cut my fashion teeth as press officer, 1985-1988 8. My great mentor: journalist and editor Felicity Green 9. From Belle, Aug/Sept 2012: high-end international interior design is Belleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trademark 10. An interior by French interior designer Jean-Louis Deniot, currently one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most influential (Belle, June/July 2011) 11. Take me to Palm Springs. The Californian desert city is a mecca for mid-century design and architecture. This favourite Palm Springs house also includes my much-loved Pedro Friedeberg hand chair (Belle, Dec/Jan 11/12)

10.

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11.

14.

16.

12.

17. 12. Peter Bogdanovich’s ‘Paper Moon’ (1973): the best movie ever made – in my opinion. Tyler Brule: I love his chutzpah and vision 13. Lady Sings The Blues (1972 movie poster): kick-started my lifelong love of blues, jazz and soul – and typography 14. Tyler Brule: I love his chutzpah and vision

13.

15. Craftsmanship, simplicity and form: Matthew Hilton’s “Colombo’ chair

15.

16. Shwedagon pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar: the most spiritual place I’ve ever visited. My early travels in Myanmar (Burma) in the 1980s had a profound influence. 17. Theravada Buddhism: a philosophy I’ve returned to again and again

THE COLLECTORS HUNTING INSPIRATION FOR VISUAL COMMUNICATIONS WITH BELLE FLANEUR. ARTICLE & PHOTOS BY BELLE FLANEUR

A ground breaking retail window installation titled Dream Works for Kenya by the team at Belle Flaneur was been given wings thanks to iconic retailer Robby Ingham and Sue Rainger. Their interpretation was a dance between daring, canonising fear and energy, creating the break through homage to Kenya.

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The opportunity to reinterpret a previously presented body of work using totally repurposed discarded objects from sponsors Reverse Garbage proved an opportunity for creative growth. Where pipes, steam & wheels turn, keeping the Kenya dreaming alive while creating a visual effect that takes shoppers to another place and escape. BF

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A ROAD TO AVENUE WE EXPLORE NEW YORK’S LATEST ADDITON TO INTERIORS VIA THE RIGHT AVENUES. ARTICLE & PHOTOS BY AVENUE ROAD

Opening in May 2012, Avenue Road’s New York showroom celebrated its 2nd store opening in the century old flower district, with 5,000 sq ft. By engaging in a more collaborative approach with an internationally acclaimed roster of designer’s, owner Stephan Weishaupt ideals on curating a truly unique experience where each piece is handpicked and all contributing to a sensibility to create a genuine, inspired atmosphere that clients will recognize as a home.

Having established itself in Canada as the premiere venue for exclusive furnishings, Avenue Road has been providing their audience with iconic designs from around the world including Europe, Brazil and Canada. “Having the opportunity to work with such an incredible group of designers is a tremendous privilege; something we are very excited to share with New York.” Stephan Weishaupt, President. AR

PHOTOGRAPHER CHIUN-KAI SHIH STYLIST DEBBIE HSIEH HAIR & GROOMING YUKIKO TAJIMA DIGITAL TECH ALEX MUCCILLI PHOTO ASSISTANT NICK GASCOINE FASHION ASSISTANTS LAURA BECK & MICHAEL HARDGROVE PRODUCER CLARISSA MORALES PA WILLIAM WANG POST PRODUCTION SKIN DIGITAL SPECIAL THANKS TO JUSTIN VIOLINI & VENUE ROAD MODEL TAYLOR FUCHS @ WILHELMINA MODELS

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ODERN

TAYLOR WEARS SHIRT BY ROCHAMBEAU JACKET BY LAB HOMME

TAYLOR WEARS TEE BY DIOR HOMME

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TAYLOR WEARS SHIRT AND JACKET BY ROCHAMBEAU TROUSERS BY MENS LIE SLIPPERS BY DEL TORO

TAYLOR WEARS SHIRT BY MENS LIE PANTS BY MICHAEL BASTIAN

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TAYLOR WEARS TURTLENECK BY GENERAL IDEA JACKET BY LAB HOMME SOCKS BY BRIONI BELT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN PANTS AND SHOES BY PRADA

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TAYLOR WEARS TEE BY HUGO BOSS JEANS BY 3X1

TAYLOR WEARS JACKET & TROUSERS BY MENS LIE SHIRT BY LAB HOMME

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TAYLOR WEARS TRENCH BY ROCHAMBEAU

TAYLOR WEARS SHIRT AND JACKET BY ROCHAMBEAU TROUSERS BY MENS LIE SLIPPERS BY DEL TORO

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TAYLOR WEARS SHIRT & TROUSERS BY MENS LIE BELT AND SHOES BY MICHAEL BASTIAN

OC OLE CLASSIC PHOTOGRAPHER CHIUN-KAI SHIH STYLIST DEBBIE HSIEH HAIR & GROOMING YUKIKO TAJIMA DIGITAL TECH ALEX MUCCILLI PHOTO ASSISTANT NICK GASCOINE FASHION ASSISTANTS LAURA BECK & MICHAEL HARDGROVE PRODUCER CLARISSA MORALES PA WILLIAM WANG POST PRODUCTION SKIN DIGITAL SPECIAL THANKS TO JUSTIN VIOLINI & AVENUE ROAD MODEL ANDREA PRETI @ SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT

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ANDREA WEARS SHIRT, TIE, POCKET SQUARE, JACKET BY MICHAEL BASTIAN JEANS BY 3X1 EYEWEAR BY MASCOT

ANDREA WEARS SHIRT & SHOES BY SEIZE SUR VINGT SUIT BY BILLY REID TIE & BOUTONNIERE BY MICHAEL BASTIAN SOCKS BY CALVIN KLEIN

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ANDREA WEARS SHIRT, TIE, SUIT & SHOES BY PRADA VINTAGE TIE - STYLISTS OWN

ANDREA WEARS SHIRT, BY MICHAEL BASTIAN TUXEDO & BOW TIE BY SEIZE SUR VINGT

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ANDREA WEARS TIE & POCKET SQUARE BY SEIZE SUR VINGT SHIRT & SUIT BY BILLY REID SUNGLASSES BY MASCOT

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ANDREA WEARS JEANS BY 3X1

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LENSE YOUR MIND

WE CAPTURE THE GLOBAL DIALOGUE BETWEEN FASHION EDITORS - CHIUN-KAI SHIH AND LEON YUAN, BOTH INFLUENTIAL ASIAN FIGURES WITHIN NEW YORK CITY.

ARTICLE LEON YUAN & CHIUN-KAI SHIH PHOTO CHIUN-KAI SHIH SPECIAL THANKS JUSTIN VIOLINI

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LY: How did you begin your career into fashion industry? CKS: When I was young, my mother was always very much into fashion trends and I would always accompany her with my sister to Macy’s, I found myself observing the VM people changing mannequins, which peaked my interest and started to observe how different clothes looked on different people. Fast forward to my college senior year, at the School of Visual Arts, my professor and famed fashion photographer, Bob Richardson, introduced me into the world of art and fashion photography. Since graduation, when I considered my portfolio was strong, and began my dream of shooting for Conde Nast Taiwan, and on with all the other international magazines titles. CKS: How about you? LY: I started my career with Club Monaco, a subsidiary of Ralph Lauren now, back in my hometown of Canada. I began by working at the stores at 15y.o., then multiple locations before eventually working overseas when an opportunity came up, with Lane Crawford in Hong Kong. I was attending a prestige university in Canada for fashion design at the time, but decided to put study on hold to pursue the opportunity. Working abroad in Asia gave me a new perspectives to the world of fashion, I knew at the time I didn’t want to go back to Canada , so I chose a detour via America to attend Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and began my studies in fashion merchandising and marketing. Through a friend’s connection, I got a job as publicist. Speaking of which, that’s when I met you, Chiun-Kai, backstage at one of the shows I worked on! CKS: Oh yes, that’s right! Now I remember you were so young when I first met you, but always try to look more mature to fit your position at the time. I can’t remember exactly, but how did you jump into the magazine world? LY: Well, one of my best friend that I met in Asia happens to be the editor-in-chief for Esquire Taiwan at the time, despite my Chinese writing skills, he believed in me and encouraged me to begin writing. How did you decide to pursue a career in photography? CKS: When I was 10 years old, we moved to New

York, I wrote down all my crazy thoughts into a diary, despite not being familiar with the english language and later found out my mother had been reading my diary, so I turned to photography as the medium to document life and thoughts. I really wanted to learn more about the craft and decided with LaGuardia High School of Music Art and Performing Arts, to study photography. For my art major I chose black and white photography and met Bruce Weber, whom frequented our school seeking new talent. I did my internship and began to shoot actor friends, many of which soon became models in the industry. Agencies also asked me to photograph their models’ portfolios. In order to elevate the level of my images we needed great clothes, so we headed to some clubs to met upcoming designers! Publicist Norma Quinto also learned of my work before offering me an internship. As my parents owned restaurants at that time, allowed me to take other internships where I had fun and learned a lot. The camera soon became my vision and my voice, every image meant something to me and photography became my life. LY: It’s surreal. even humbling as fashion editor I’ve had to opportunities to meet designers and chat about their lives. I still remember my first interview, was with Giorgio Armani, they opened the first mega store on 5th Avenue, in New York. It was most memorable because I think I did a terrible job. I recall there were 10 people from his team around while his translator relayed my questions. Over time, my interview techniques were honed with Christopher Bailey of Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger, and Italo Zucchelli of Calvin Klein Collection. I’ve always wondered, what’s your definition of a good photographer, and what do you see through your lens? CKS: I think a great camera produces a great photographer, that’s for sure! For me it’s how I see the world and light. I believe a good photographer should allow his pictures to speak for itself. What

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I see though my lens is definitely of pure Love & Joy! 99% of the time, its happiness and excitement I feel during my photoshoots. I’m always pushing my subject on shoots and worried they would get annoyed because Im constantly saying “One More... just Two More!!! Almost done!” LY: That’s funny, but shows your passion. It’s exactly how I remember you, everytime on-set! Since we’re on the topic of camera and technology, over the years I felt the traditional way of doing advertising and promotion via web and print media have changed drastically. When I first started in the business, we use to rely on this costly subscription services - “fashion calendar”, as well continual trips to showrooms to see the collection upclose; but now most of my time is divided between reviews, press release, news from PRs Executives by their Facebook and Twitter updates, not even e-mails anymore. The current day press relations strategy. LY: What are your thoughts on all the new “tools” available today that’s related to your work? What are the differences of a photographer in the 90s and now in 2012? CKS: There are many answers to this question. I think it’s harder for up-coming photographers to make a name with accessibility to programmes like Photoshop, apps, instagram has been a great equalizer, allowing everyone to explore photography. It’s so important to tap into new medias to improve my photography skills. The days of working as an independant photographer are long gone, there’s a real need to be involved with the industry as well as clients you are shooting for. The 90’s marked the beginning of the digital media era, there were many new job opportunities and positions open due to new technology. The biggest difference is that most photographers today are digitally savvy, and if you don’t catch up fast, you will be left behind! It’s not an easy industry, as it requires alot of clarity and inspiration, that’s why travel and feeling refreshed is very important to me, as well as many other photographers I know. An example, my ultimate getaway is Tokyo, Japan. I see the city as being very animated, inspired and everything is so cute! I would love to have the opportunity to go and revisit my inner childhood for a week would be perfect! LY: Very insightful! I love Tokyo and Europe, having returned from recent trip to Paris and Rome. The lifestyle is completely different than what we’re used to here in New York. Regarding fashion, I found many ateliers in Paris and lots of handcrafted shoemakers in Rome. The pace and lifestyle varies from what I’ve observed. Over the years, what would you say changed and what had remained? CKS: Well, I personally think the rules of the game is the same, but with added new players. The fight to be at the top of the game has never been

more fierce! I love that fashion changes, and have immense respect for it. LY: What about designers? Who are your favorite designers? CKS: Are you sure you want me to answer this question? Haha, Im an avid supporter of American designers; lately I’ve had my eyes on Michael Bastian’s version on preppy classic American style but with a twist to it. 3x1 Jeans by Scott Morrison’s new approach on how the world would select and wear customized jeans is very unique, the fit and quality of denims previously unseen. I love every pair I own! Theres Steven Alan’s shirt I could never have enough of! Seize Sur Vignt’s made to measure suits also and JFK white dress shirts by James Journey. Last but not least, I have guilty pleasure for footwear! Cole Haan by Phil Russo, is my go-to brand for shoes, I’ve been wearing Cole Haan since college. The ever changing colors combined with new technology from Nike, it’s truly cool! LY: I agree, it’s funny both of us are wearing the same branded jeans and shoes even! I love 3X1, I did an interview with Scott and found his advice on denim just mind blowing. as for Cole Haan, they are simply the most comfortable shoes I own; I wore them to Europe, for 8 plus hours a day, but felt I was wearing a pair of Nike runners! So tell me about your most memorable model & celebrity shoot. Do you have any favored stores or locations? CKS: Definitely, Zachary Quinto, for GQ Taiwan, in 2009, at Yabu Pushelberg’s New York apartment! I always aim to shoot at different locations, but enjoy the Upper West Side of Manhattan, as well as Central Park, Riverside Park and the Columbia University Campus. I think Manhattan really have a lot to offer in terms of fashion at every corner of this beautiful city. LY: For me, I love the Ralph Lauren mansions on Upper East Side, Barneys New York’s Madison flagship -recently undergone major renovation, a good friend of you and famed interior architect, Yabu Pushelberg! I’m constantly on the look out for new and fresh things on the market, forecasting what is going to be popular in the near future. Im drawn to more classic inclined style. How about you? CKS: I am a very simple guy as well, but I enjoy experimenting different looks and styles. My day to day outfits tend to be in Steven Alan, Read Wall, and J. Crew for tops, either 3x1 or RRL jeans, footwear is often Converse or Cole Haan. I dress smart for special occasions like fashion week and special events, and have a weakness for fitted blazers!

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LY: Now onto Fashion evolution, from print to online, what are your thoughts and which do you prefer? CKS: Not going to lie, I love print format, but I see so many benefits of online publications, from environmental to connectivity thru social media. The limits of online publishing is most obvious with translating some artist’s vision, some works simply looks better on print, worthy to collect and admire, 90% of my clients are all still print, I do try my best to deliver images that are print worthy and can be keep as collectors item. I will continue to support print media, but at the same time not oppose online magazines or publishings, I’ve come to appreciate people share the same joy as me once they see the images, no matter if its print or online. LY: I think for me, I still like the ability to open a printed book or magazine for reference. I know it’s longterm impact on the environment, but that’s my personal choice. Most of the major brands are replacing physical catalogues to e-versions; they are much easier to view, and circulate via portals, apps and marketing strategies. A notable change was last New York fashion week. with the launch of Fashion GPS, most designers now prefer using this service to send out their invitations instead of conventional mailing. This not only cut down a lot of invitation production fees, but the convenience of online tracking becomes attractive for brands. Fashion show invitations often revealed hints of the collections, so it does get boring when thoughtful invites are replaced with uninspired text and image e-vites. Tell us, what your fashion week experiences have been like? CKS: My experiences revolved around New York Fashion week, my first time to attend was in 1992 which was also my first year in college, I found it lively and full of young talent. At that moment I knew I was facinated by the fashion industry. What it represented to me was hope and excitement, which lasted with me until the very last show at Bryant Park, then Lincoln Center. The energy is different now, it takes alot of effort to prove to your fans and investors to keep a brands alive. Fashion is evolving but becoming growing predictable these days. I think another shift is due again very soon, I would like to see that free spirit from previous years, return to the NY fashion scene again, I sure miss it.

NOMA THE DELECTABLE FOOD COMA EXPERIENCE FROM NOMA. ARTICLE DR RUEN CHIEW PHOTOS NOMA

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Home to Australia’s very own Princess Mary and regularly named the “happiest country in the world” Denmark has always been charming. As for crusine, eating had long been a yawn. even a decade ago, the idea that Copenhagen (or Scandinavia) would become the world’s trendiest food city seemed totally absurd. However, that started to change in the 2000s. The nation itself began to take food seriously. In 2004, Denmark was the first country to introduce a trans fat ban. In 2011, it became the first country to levy a “fat tax” on saturated fat and is considering adding a tax on sugar in 2013. Denmark consumes the most organic products per capita in the world. And the wave of “new Nordic” restaurants has been in full motion with Copenhagen as the epicentre of “new Nordic” cuisine, which has supplanted Spain’s formerly avant-garde molecular gastronomy as the latest, Big Idea in international cuisine. At the pinnacle of this new wave is Noma restaurant, named the best restaurant in the world for the third year in a row by Restaurant magazine’s World’s 50 Best list. In April, Time magazine listed René Redzepi, Noma’s chef and the high priest of the new Nordic cuisine, as one of “The 100 Most Influential People in the World.” As a close friend once expressed of Redzepi, “High-level chefs change the world in ways that are unprecedented They change the way we view food.” Rene Redzepi, 34-years-old had done stints early in his career at the late El Bulli near Barcelona (then still considered the best restaurant in world) and the French Laundry in Napa Valley before returning to Copenhagen to work at the fancy Kong Hans Kælder. In 2003, restaurateur Claus Meyer offered Redzepi to open Noma in an 18th-century warehouse in the Christianshavn neighbourhood, a fairly unprepossessing part of town.

new Nordic cuisine manifesto (because you simply can’t have a movement without a manifesto). They called for, among other things, “purity, freshness, simplicity, and ethics.” The new Nordic chefs promoted the sole use of seasonal, Scandinavian ingredients — which meant, for instance, no olive oil, no lemons and no pasta — and a return to traditional Scandinavian techniques such as pickling, smoking, curing and fermenting. The idea was to force creativity by setting limitations. New Nordic cuisine came to be identified by: ingredients such as sea-buckthorn or Douglas fir or gooseberries or deep-fried moss; cellared or slow-cooked vegetables and under-ripe fruit; dishes served on pieces of wood, rocks, seashells and tree branches; a focus on fish and veggies, rather than meat. Dishes, plated with wild grasses and leaves and such, mimic nature, with a fashionably mussed-up aesthetic, compared with the geometric, architectural plates of molecular gastronomy. At Noma, local seasonal offerings are never static, but rather dynamic, carefully planned before guests arrive. Where patrons could expect a family like atmosphere (everyone is given this treatment);this concept is known as “hygge” in Danish. Words such as “cozy,” “snug” or “feel-good” approach the meaning. An occasion that evokes hygge will be generous, familiar, unchallenging and happy. Creating an ambience where friends toasts, to fine dining over candlelight or an open fire. It’s this same attitude that is most lovable about Denmark and it’s people, and what makes the large city of Copenhagen feel like home, fittingly for Noma. RC

Around the time of Noma’s opening, Redzepi and Meyer, along with other young chefs, drafted a

LOVE ITSELF PHOTOGRAPHY CHAD LEON REALISED BY CHRIS CHENG FASHION ASSISTANT ASKA YOKOYAMA PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT ROHAN & ZANI HAIR LUKE NICHOLSON MAKEUP JO CANDELARIA & KRISTYAN LOW BACKSTAGE THI NGUYEN & METTA SITTIPUN MODELS MEGAN IRMINGER & ARTHUR LOCKHART @ CHADWICKS, BROED DILLWAARD & JAMES GATENBY @ PRISCILLAS

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ARTHUR WEARS TUXEDO PANTS BY DIOR HOMME. MEGAN WEARS DRESS, CUFF AND NECKLACE, ALL BY CHANEL. SHOES MODELS OWN.

MEGAN WEARS DRESS, CUFF AND NECKLACE, ALL BY CHANEL

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ARTHUR WEARS TUXEDO PANTS BY DIOR HOMME

JAMES WEARS SUIT, SHIRT, JUMPER, CAP AND SHOES. BROED WEARS SHIRT, COAT, PANTS, SHOES AND UMBRELLA, MEGAN WEARS JACKET, SKIRT AND GLOVES. ARTHUR WEARS SUIT, CAP, SHOES AND GLOVES, ALL BY BURBERRY PRORSUM.

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JAMES WEARS SHIRT, WAISTCOAT, PANTS & SHOES. ARTHUR WEARS SHIRT, FULL SUIT, TIE AND SHOES BROED WEARS SHIRT, FULL SUIT, TIE, AND SHOES, ALL BY Z ZEGNA

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ARTHUR WEARS TUXEDO PANTS BY DIOR HOMME. MEGAN WEARS JACKET, SKIRT AND CUFF, ALL BY CHANEL.

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BROED WEARS UNDERWEAR, MODELS OWN. JAMES WEARS SHIRT, TIE, SUIT, ARTHUR WEARS TEE, SHIRT, SUIT MEGAN WEARS DRESS AND BLOUSE, ALL BY GIVENCHY & SHOES ALL BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, FROM A SELECTION AVAIL @ ROBBY INGHAM - PADDINGTON

ARTHUR WEARS SHIRT, TIE AND SUIT ALL BY Z ZEGNA

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MEGAN WEARS DRESS AND BLOUSE, ALL BY GIVENCHY & SHOES BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, FROM A SELECTION AVAIL @ ROBBY INGHAM - PADDINGTON

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JAMES WEARS SHIRT, TURTLENECK, WAISTCOAT, COAT WITH ACCESSORY PIN, PANTS AND SHOES ALL BY PRADA

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BROED WEARS SHIRT, TURTLENECK, WAISTCOAT, PANTS AND SHOES ALL BY PRADA

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JAMES WEARS SHIRT, TURTLENECK, WAISTCOAT, COAT WITH PIN, PANTS AND SHOES BROED WEARS SHIRT, TURTLENECK, WAISTCOAT WITH ACCESSORY, PANTS AND SHOES ALL BY PRADA.

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WE DISCOVER THE LATEST ADDITION T STABLE. THE FLAGSHIP STORE OPENING SYDNEY 2013, BY TAKING AN INDEPTH THE CLASSIQUES THAT MAKETH THE M

DIOR HOMM

ARTICLE ROHAN STEPHENS PHOTOS DIOR EDITORIAL PHOTO CHAD LEON EDITORIAL FASHION CHRIS CHENG EDITORIAL POST PRODUCTION THI NGUYEN SPECIAL THANKS DIOR HK & CLAYTON CHENG MODELS BROED DILLEWAARD @ PRISCILLA M ARTHUR LOCKHART @ CHADWICK MODELS

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TO DIOR’S G IN H LOOK AT MAN.

G MODELS S

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Kris Van Assche is often referred as Fashion’s quiet achiever, organising responsibilities as Artistic Director of Dior Homme and his eponymous label. With clarity of vision, the understated ulitiarian has made his way forward showcasing modernity whilst paying hommage to Dior House codes. This approach is perfectly timed with current trends towards intellectual design, made evident with the new appointment of Raf Simmons, now responsible for the HC and PAP womenswear collections. This radical move post John Galliano’s extravagence, signals a re-invention on Dior’s New look and the continued reverence into the new century. Van Assche originally came to Dior under the auspices of Hedi Slimane in 2003. Slimane had mentored Van Assche through his internship at YSL, since 1998, then having invited the young designer to follow his own transition. Two years on, Van Assche would replace Slimane as the Artistic Director of the newly formed Dior Homme, initiating his distinct vision by marrying the qualities of high fashion with militaristic work wear. Launching his own self titled menswear label in 2005, KRISVANASSCHE, he continues this style with what he describes as “a transversal inspiration where the contemporary wardrobe mixes classical lines with the ruggedness of work gear as well as the technique of sportswear.” Success of Dior Homme’s influence is indication of Van Assche’s ability to address the need for sleek, modern and practical styles but still deliver them under the guise of a luxury brand has continued to open markets for Dior. The beautiful paradox that Van Assche works within was epitomized in one of the brand’s first runway shows in 2007. Referencing the severe androgyny of his vision and the unifying lines of the sportswear technique that he has mastered. The full form of Van Assche’s sophisticated simplicity came to light in 2010, when Dior Homme announced the release of what it called a ‘Classique 10 : a simple list of items that every ‘Dior Man’ should possess in their wardrobe.

The first few items included a pair of indigo jeans, a tuxedo, leather jacket, trench coat, short-sleeved polo, dress shoes and formal shirt, and ended with a suit, trainers and a sports bag. These items released throughout the year has proven to stand the test of time, which is a testiment to high fashion. Having one piece of clothing presented each month as Dior claims, allows its customers to truly experience the craftsmanship. While Dior’s dominance over the past few years maintaining steady growth, in the wake of struggling economic markets from the lower end of retail and department stores. The decision to open Dior’s first free-standing boutique in Australia only became a matter of timing. The flagship store is by no means a humble entry into the Australian market as it will encompass three entire levels of its new Castlereagh location with over 500 sqm of floor space to fill. The store will be of ‘full-category’ in range alluding to the diverse appeal of the brand. The interior will represent the new vision of Dior Homme, with modernist fixtures and an inviting palette of metals and blue hues. By having a store that deals with both Couture and ready to wear items, identifies the customers experiences within each city. With a wealth of tourists combined with a possibly more style conscious local market will both be attended to by the selections. With the Luxury brands version of musical chairs in process of renovate or relocate, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, Chanel, and now Dior marks the transformations of Sydney city into a truly luxurious destination for high end retail. In a period where the media seems to bare only grim news about the immediate future of both fashion and retail, it’s a significant glimmer of hope, even masterstroke for Dior to cement the brands position. Dior’s Flagship Sydney boutique is planned for a grand opening early January 2013, with some very special guests confirmed in attendance. RS

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CLASSIQUE 10

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ARTHUR WEARS PLAID WOOL SUIT, SHIRT ALL BY DIOR HOMME

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ARTHUR WEARS TRENCH, SHIRT AND DENIM ALL BY DIOR HOMME

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BROED WEARS WOOL SUIT, SHIRT, TIE AND SHOES ALL BY DIOR HOMME

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ARTHUR WEAR TUXEDO, SHIRT & SHOES BY DIOR HOMME

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LYNDL SALES

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‘CONVERSATIONS’ PRESENTS A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE THROUGH THE EYES OF ARTIST, CURATOR AND COLLECTOR. CURATED BY MICHELLE PATERSON AND GALLERIST IAIN DAWSON. 4 - 25 NOVEMBER 2012 28 QUEEN STREET, WOOLLAHRA WORDS & PHOTOS QUEEN STREET GALLERY SPECIAL THANKS TO IAIN DAWSON

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Lyndi Sales is an artist based in Cape Town, South Africa. For the past couple of years, she has been working on a series of installations and artworks that seek to investigate the circumstances surrounding the controversial Helderberg plane crash. These constructions, made of intricately cut, pinned paper and rubber often shed light on the fragile nature of our existence, temporality and how chance plays a role in our lives. She has held solo shows internationally at Galerie Maria Lund in Paris and Toomey Tourell in San Francisco. And locally in South Africa at the Goodman Gallery, Bell-Roberts Contemporary, Joao Ferreria and Gallery Momo galleries. She has participated in group shows in South Africa, USA, Austria, London, Holland and Denmark. Her works can be found in major collections in South Africa as well as collections in the USA and Europe. She has taught as a visiting lecturer at Michaelis School of Fine Art, University of Cape Town and University of Stellenbosch. Sales received both her BFA (1995) and MFA (2000) from University of Cape Town, both with distinction. Sales was a merit award winner in the ABSA Atelier. She was a recipient of the Vermont Studio Center grant and participated in residencies at the Vermont studio center as well as the Frans Masereel Center in Belgium.

Product designer, Heath Nash, uses recycled plastics to produce beautifully designed homeware products Heath Nash is an independent product designer, and pioneer in the field of using recycled plastics, forerunning the current trend in the South African design community for the use of such materials. He produces lampshades and other paper/plastic home ware products, and works with a small team of craftspeople using both new materials and recyclables to create high-end product design. His style is characterised by unitary / modular design, and in 2006 he was named by Elle Decoration magazine in South Africa as ‘Designer of the Year’. He firmly believes that South Africa’s design strengths lie in using hand-craft skills and materials that have been developed and can be produced locally – and that feel different to any other culture and country. Heath Nash was on of the finalists of the YCE Design Award 2006. Diana Hyslop lives and works in Johannesburg, South Africa.In her mid twenties she worked for Marvel Comics in London. On her return to South Africa Hyslop joined the film industry working on feature and documentary films. In the late eighties she studied painting at Bill Ainslie’s now legendary Johannesburg Art Foundation.

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HEATH NASH

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DIANA HYSLOP

MELANIE CLEARY

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In the nineties she spent a year at the Santa Monica Fine Arts Studios in California before returning to Johannesburg where she spent time between filming and painting. It was in 1998 that Hyslop committed to full time painting after having her first solo show at the AVA Gallery in Cape Town. In 2002 she joined the Fordsburg Artists Studios (aka the Bag Factory Studios) as a permanent tenant artist and has been part of this downtown collective for nine years. Largely informed by comics and film, Hyslopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work explores magical realism and a universe of possibilities in which unexpected combinations are viable, all co-exist, and where everything can happen at once. She is interested in the duality of existence, a solitary/social phenomenon though which an eminent encounter can sometimes determine our pathways. And go beyond it. Hyslop has exhibited locally and abroad, and has her work in numerous collections in South Africa and has participated in international art workshops in Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, South Africa and Uruguay.

Melanie Cleary was born on the 26 September 1970, Caledon Western Cape. She is currently living and working in Cape Town. Being a self-taught photographer who has worked freelance for the past 12 years. Prior to becoming a photographer Cleary worked as a technician on television commercials and in the feature film industry, for 6 years. Her experience on film sets nurtured her ability to capture and create beautiful images and tell stories. Being self-taught allows her subjects to become as comfortable as possible because Cleary believes thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when she can achieve her objective of shooting honest and interesting portraits. Trying to capture special moments at unexpected times. She looks for special moments that always present themselves at the most unexpected time. Photography is a constant reminder of the beauty that can be found in simple things and the aweinspiring complexity seen in human nature.

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CLOSE SHAVE

THE ART OF THE CLOSE SHAVE DEMONSTRATED BY FASHION FILMMAKER BART HESS

ARTICLE LAB GALLERIE PHOTOS COURTESY OF BART HESS SPECIAL THANKS TO FRANK VERKADE

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The seductive curves of a toned figure are slowly unveiled by the ultimate seamless shave in designer, animator and photographer Bart Hess’s sleek new film was inspired by the aerodynamic forms of swimmers battling it out in the Olympic pool, Hess was aided by a pair of human shavers manipulating a two-meter long blade in turning a mechanical act of grooming into a strangely hypnotic performance. LAB: What was your inspiration behind the shoot? BH: “What is important to me in my work is a sense of estranging,” admits Hess, who added the white bar in post-production to compound the uncanny feel of the film. “I want to show the spectator an image that may not be recognizable right away.” “I was thinking about swimmers who have to shave their entire bodies to be as aerodynamic as possible for the game. This thought about aerodynamics inspired me to look at the body in a different way and create the shapes that are shown in the movie. I wanted to create very masculine body shapes against a more feminine forms”. LAB: Any challenges whilst filming? BH: “One of the problems I faced during filming was controling the different shades of white in the shots. I wanted the background and foam to blend in to one another and look as flat as possible without losing the three dimensional feel of the model’s body. “

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“Another difficulty was controlling the big shavingblade. The blade was controlled by 2 assistents who slowly moved it downwards while getting instructions from the people behind the camera. Only the people behind the camera could see if the blade was in one straight line within the shot.” LAB: What determines your choice of medium? BH: “Normally within my work I am looking for the limits of a material. In previous projects I experimented with slime, paper, glass and needles. But in this film I did not modify the foam but I looked for the limits of the shaving ritual by scaling it up”. BH

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STATS FROM ON SET Location Studio Bart Hess, Canalstreet, Eindhoven, Netherlands. Shoot duration Ten hours. Cast One male model, one director, one cameraman, and two shavers. Amount of shaving cream used Twentyeight cans. Cuts from shaving Five. Body surface covered in foam 2.1m². Amount of hairs shaved during the shoot Approximately 24,000. Closeness of shave 0.0001cm. Wardrobe Supermarket b-brand shaving-foam; one tiny pair of Speedos to avoid cuts to the more sensitive body parts. Sound effects Manipulated real-life shaving sounds. Shaving appliance Two-meter-long metal blade. Olympic record to beat 21.3 seconds (men’s 50 meters freestyle). Potential health hazards Choking on the foam (luckily the model was a swimmer so he could hold his breath).  Director’s motivational speech “You are brilliant! Let’s do that three more times!”

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SKIN WARS ARTICLE TOM O’CONNOR PHOTOS SHISEIDO, LAB SERIES, NEUTRAGENA, AESOP & BIOTHERM

simply ask the trained staffs at any reputatable counter to help with the diagnosis.Try Stores like Sephora, Chemists & Leading Dept. stores. Although we live in a modern society there is still a bit of a taboo about men using grooming products; most guys seem to think that simple things like moisturizer are stepping stones to over manicured eyebrows and manzillians. This is simply not true, having several friends that are top grade sportsman and professionals that use moisturizer as well as other skincare products. As we spend an increasing amount of time in the sun, the need to address uv protection and repair is heightened. But it’s not only people with overexposure that need protection. When the skin is cleansed, we wash away the natural oils intended to keep the skin supple and elastic. Without replacing that loss of moisture the skin tends to dry out, leading to pre-mature wrinkles.

Having been a professional model for over 4 years I’ve been lucky enough to speak with and receive professional advice on the topic of skincare, learning tips from leading industry makeup artists and beauticians. Which made the complex topic, surprisingly simple. Most men, have come to learned there are different moisturisers for differing skintypes: dry, oily combination, normal and aging skin. But neglect to factor in the effects of environmental, dietary, age and climatic changes has. So I keep the routine generally to a simple rule, cleanse/scrub, moisturise and protect. But don’t worry, if all this is too confusing - products display their functions and benefits on the packaging and if you’re not sure which skin type you belong,

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Over time the skin secretes less and less oils, so personalised moisturizers gets increasingly important with age. This does not mean, however that moisturisers are just for the aging; even at my five year high school reunion it was blindingly obvious the guys that took care of their skin and those that didn’t. The skin is very good at regenerating some damages but its good to start practicing skincare at a young age. As an avid fan of natural products I always recommend organic skin care products for the same reason I recommend organic for most things; what you put in your body is equally important and chemicals are rarely a good idea. When buying any moisturizer its recommended to ‘test the water’ for compatibility. When theres a match - your skin should feel comfortable and soft, appearing healthy and dewy, not greasy, taute, or irritated. When in doubt always consult a qualitifed skincare professional for advise. It could mean the difference between looking great at 50 or looking like your Nan’s old leather couch. TOC

Max LS daily renewal cleanser

Power brightening eye balm + DR4

LAB SERIES

Oil-free hydrating serum

Amazing face cleanser

NEUTROGENA

Active energizing concentrate

Deep cleansing scrub

SHISEIDO MEN

AESOP

Force supreme gel

Ultimate sport spf 70+

Force supreme eye

BIOTHERM HOMME

Skin empowering cream

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FACEFO FROM L.A. TO N.Y.C WE PRESENT A SUPERCHARGED VERSION OF FACE FORWARD MODELS TO WATCH

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ORWARD PHOTOS FERNANDO BARRAZA SPECIAL THANKS PAUL MAYBURY ART AARON STRAUP COPE

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ALEXANDER @VISION H: W: S: H: E:

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6’1” 32” 11 Brown Hazel

ZACH B

@ WILHELMINA H: W: S: H: E:

6’0” 30” 10.5 Brown Brown

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BAILEY

@ MAJOR H: W: S: H: E:

6’2” 30” 11 Blonde Blue

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ANDERSON @ NEWYORK H: W: S: H: E:

6’1” 30” 10 Brown Blue

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JAKE

@ MAJOR H: W: S: H: E:

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6’2” 32” 11 Red Green

MAT T

@ NEW YORK H: W: S: H: E:

6’2.5” 31” 11 Red Hazel

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SHANE

@ VISION H: W: S: H: E:

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6’1” 32” 11 Brown Blue-green

MAX @ DT H: W: S: H: E:

5’11” 31” 10 Dark brown Blue-green

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SATOSHI

@ NEW YORK H: W: S: H: E:

6’2” 31” 11.5 Black Dk brown

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JOE C

@ NEW YORK H: W: S: H: E:

6’2” 30” 11 Brown Green

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LOS ANGELES MAP BY AARON STRAUP COPE

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NEW YORK CITY MAP BY AARON STRAUP COPE

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AMSTERDAM MAP BY AARON STRAUP COPE

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PARIS MAP BY AARON STRAUP COPE

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THE R PHOTOGRAPHY PAT SUPSIRI FASHION DIRECTOR CHRIS CHENG FASHION ASSISTANT ASKA YOKOYAMA HAIR LUKE NICHOLSON MAKEUP KRISTYAN LOW MODELS SHANE GIBSON, MIRO TEPLITZKY & RYLEY MCLAUGHLIN @ PRISCILLAS

SHANE WEARS TEE, SHIRT AROUND WAIST, JACKET, PANTS AND SHOES BY JUST CAVALLI. WAISTCOAT BY LAGERFELD MIRO WEARS TEE, CARDIGAN, BELT, PANTS BY JUST CAVALLI. BLAZER BY LAGERFELD. SHORTS BY KONCEPT 12-1-2, RYLEY WEARS TEE, SHIRT AROUND WAIST, JACKET, PANTS & SHOES BY JUST CAVALLI. WAISTCOAT BY LAGERFELD.

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RUNAWAYS

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SHANE WEARS SHIRT & SUIT BY LAGERFELD. BELT BY JUST CAVALLI. TEE BY KONCEPT 12-1-2.

LAB

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RYLEY WEARS SHIRT & SUIT BY LAGERFELD. BELT BY JUST CAVALLI. SHORTS BY KONCEPT 12-1-2.

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MIRO WEARS TEE, CARDIGAN, BELT, PANTS & SHOES BY JUST CAVALLI, SHORTS BY KONCEPT 12-1-2.

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RYLEY WEARS TEE, SHIRT AROUND WAIST, JACKET, PANTS & BELT BY JUST CAVALLI, WAISTCOAT BY LAGERFELD, CAP & SHOES MODELS OWN.

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MIRO WEARS SHIRT, PANTS, JUMPER WORN OVER PANTS & SHOES BY JUST CAVALLI, OVERSHIRT BY LAGERFELD.

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SHANE WEARS SHIRT BY LAGERFELD. SUIT BY LAB HOMME. JUMPER WORN OVER SHIRT BY JUST CAVALLI. COLLAR BY AMERICAN RETRO SHOES BY BRANDO.

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RYLEY WEARS SHIRT BY LAGERFELD. SUIT BY LAB HOMME. OVER SHIRT BY JUST CAVALLI. SHOES MODEL’S OWN.

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RA DAR ALEXANDER WANG GOLF BAG

TW STEEL CANTEEN WATCH VINTAGE ZIPPO LIGHTER

ALEXANDER WANG KARMEN LOAFER

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COMME DES GARCONS HOUNDSTOOTH CUFF SOCKS

LANVIN PIN

MYKITA ‘ANAI’ SUNGLASSES

CRISTALCANE LAMP BY BENJAMIN GRAINDORGE

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RA DAR

WERKSTATT-MUNCHEN RING

FALLEN TREE BY BENJAMIN GRAINDORGE

LAURA B BOWTIE

LEICA M

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LANVIN RABBIT-FELT FEDORA HAT

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN UMBRELLA

GUCCI POCKET SQUARE

BMW GREAT ESCAPE BIKE

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GEN SPORTS WE FACE OFF WITH A FEW NEW LEADING MEN IN SPORTING ARTICLE LAB GALLERIE PHOTOS CHRIS CHENG

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MIKE PIKE

PREMIERSHIP WINNER | AFL PLAYER LAB: Beginning MP: It was a brand new challenge changing sports and I sought as many mentors as possible. You can never get too much advice. Learn from yours/ others experiences and mistakes LAB: Triumps.Mentors MP: My biggest triumph was winning the AFL Premiership 2012 with fellow teammates at Sydney Swans.Not everyone gets the ultimate rewards for their sacrifices and therefore I feel very privileged to have achieved what many dream of. My mentors would have to be my wife, family, coach, teammates and close friends. LAB: Fails.Overcome MP: Athletes already put tons of pressure on themselves, so external expectation donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bother me. Its important to focus on what your coach and teammates want from you. Control what you can control, worrying about anything else is pointless. LAB: Future MP: To continue to play a good game of footy and hone my skills.

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ANDREW LAUTERSTEIN OLYMPIC MEDALIST | SWIMMING

LAB: Beginning AL: I began swimming through school racing competitions. This involved the process of racing for your â&#x20AC;&#x153;houseâ&#x20AC;? then district, zone then state. I first started in grade 4. At that time I had never done had any swimming lessons but I was told Im a natural in the water. LAB: Triumps.Mentors AL: My biggest triumph was winning a Bronze Medal at the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing for the 100 Butterfly. My mentors were my coaches, family and friends who are more supportive of my dreams than I could of ever imagined. LAB: Fails.Overcome AL: Overtraining or simply wanting to win too much. I never let my body fully recover and eventually got sick as a result. This is something that I learnt a lot from and that more is not always better. LAB: Future AL: Working for an Engine Swim Australia as the National Performace Director. Continue to travel, smile and enjoy all the twists and turns that life throws up!

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MATT ABOOD

WORLD CHAMPION MEDALIST | SWIMMING LAB: Beginning MA: I first started training at a young age, I recall we used to race in a shiny suit and that feeling of being in the water was amazing. How things have changed from wearing an full ankle to shoulder suit to now only a waist to knees. LAB: Triumps.Mentors MA: I was a part of the gold medal winning 4 x 100 Freestyle relay team along with Matthew Targett, Eamon Sullivan and James Magnusson in Shanghai 2011. It was an exciting race where we led from start to finish and a moment I will remember for a very long time! My mentors would have to be fiancee, family, coach and friends. LAB: Fails.Overcome MA: There have been huge disappointments but also time for revaluation by taking an holistic view of things and fresh approach can often shed a new light on problems with ways to negotiate them. A motto I first heard a few years ago is “if you are going through hell…keep going”. Get out there and get what you want. LAB: Future MA: I have started study and also a new job with the CBA. Which I hope to continue.

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AERTIME

WITH TAYLOR FUCHS

LAB: In the beginning, did you find it easy or challenging, and what would you say was your defining moment or big break?

LAB: And where are you currently based out of?

TF: I was really lucky starting out and would say my big break was my second shoot after being cast for the Pringle campaign with Steven Meisel.

LAB: Tell us what inspires you?

LAB: Which agencies do you work with? TF: Wilhelmina - NY Success - Paris Why Not - Milan Sight - Barcelona Nest - Berlin Mega - Hamburg 2pm - Copenhagen Select - London LAB: When did you begin modelling? TF: I was scouted at a bar while I was going to university in Calgary and have been modeling for about 5 years now.

TF: New York

TF: Watching people get lost in what they love to do. Whether it be music, acting, sports or something totally random it all has a similar energizing effect on me as long as the drive and enthusiasm is there. I also draw a lot from where I grew up and my amazing family and friends. LAB: Favourite tunes? TF: A few songs: Yukon Blonde - Rather Be With You The Sheepdogs - “I Don’t Know” Half Moon Run - Full Circle LAB: Can you describe your personal style? TF: Comfortable, classic, subtly intricate.

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LAB: Favourite food? TF: I’m a sucker for a good whiskey and a chicken quesadilla. LAB: Next question, Can you list 3 fav animals + name the characteristics, why you like or thought of them? TF: Gus - my cat back in Canada. He’s just always looking to be involved. Hobbes - the stuffed tiger. He will always eat a bully for a friend. Tazmanian Devil - because he don’t care LAB: What about your Favourite colour? TF: Blue LAB: Who would you describe as your Movie ICON? TF: Marlon Brando because of his influence on the craft as well as his diversity of characters. LAB: Best words of advice - given or advised? TF: This is it. Make the best of it.

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Campaigns: Michael Kors FW12 AG Adrian Goldschmied FW12 H&M SS12 Gap SS12 Michael Kors Cruise 12 Michaek Kors FW11 Peak Performance FW10 Spurr FW10 Lacoste SS10 Siviglia FW09 Armand Basi SS09 French Connection SS09 Filippa K FW08 DKNY FW08 Valentino FW08 Kenzo FW08 Catwalk shows to date: Timo Weiland SS13 Band of outsiders FW12 Michael Kors FW12 Roberto Cavalli FW12 Hugo Boss FW12

Michael Kors SS12 Gap SS12 Bespoken FW11 Robert Geller FW10 Magazine editorial/covers to date: Block magazine 2012 GQ Style China 2012 Vogue China 2012 Metal magazine 2011 GQ Taiwan 2011 Details magazine 2011 Fashionisto 2011 Slurp magazine 2011 Fiasco magazine 2010 Interview maagazine 2010 Black book magazine 2010 CFDA Journal 2010 Ponytail magazine 2010 V man 2010 Allure magazine 2010 Models.com special 2010 Wonderland magazine 2009 Style magazine 2009

Mixte magazine 2009 Arena magazine 2009 GQ Stlye Germany 2009 Details magazine 2009 V Magazine 2008 Another man magazine 2008 Man about time 2008 Details magazine 2008 V magazine 2007

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OUR U.S. CONTRIBUTING EDITOR TALKS TO ANDREA PRETI DURING NYFW. HERES WHAT HE UNCOVERS.

AERTIME

WITH ANDREA PRETI

LY: Tell us alittle of your background?

and met my current agent, when he saw me and he said, “Look, look, I’m being very honest with you. Your pictures are very ugly, but I have faith and trust in you, so I will offer you a contract.”

AP: I was born and raised in Denmark even though I have an Italian background, we lived there for 16 years because my parents owned a restaurant there. I was studying hotel management at college while working at the restaurant. Since I never thought much about modeling or acting, to me that was a different kind of world and work [than what I was used to]. After my parents split, my mother got very sick and told me one of her dreams was to see me on the big screen or advertisement. So I tried out with modelling for her. LY: Where were you based and how did your career begin? AP: It was In Milan where I did some simple tests. I remember going to all the agencies and nobody wanting me. They told me many reasons, “You loook too Italian, we have a lot of guys, you are too skinny.” And every time I went, to try out, they had an excuse for not casting me. I told that to my mom. “Mom, I am here. I have tried 2 or 3 times and they didn’t want me. Maybe I’m not good.” She encouraged me to keep trying and in the end I went to Elite Milan,

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LY: So you just walked into the agency? AP: Yeah, after 3 weeks, I had the exclusive with Dolce and Gabanna. So I was very lucky. LY: For the show or for the campaign? AP: Campaign, show, catalogue, all the stuff. LY: I know that you have done a lot with Dolce and Gabanna and other brands, what’s the experience been like working with them? AP: They are for me, like a second family, because we text, we talk to each other not everyday but every week, so I grew up with them. They are in my heart because they [taught] me all the stuff that I do, how to pose, how to walk, and how to be more confident infront of the screen.

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LY: How many years has it been since you started?

LY: Have you met him? He’s based in New York.

AP: I started 2 and half years ago.

AP: I met him in Sardina Island at a party. A friend of mine introduced us. I love also Adrien Brody. I think he’s different, he doesn’t do as many movies, only great movies.

LY: Still relatively new but big campaigns already. AP: Yeah, I did a lot of stuff. I was very lucky. LY: So what is important to you in life? What’s the most important thing? AP: The most important thing is that I am happy and if my mother feels good and she feels happy. So everything she tells me, is very important. Everything she asks me to do, I try to make it the best as I can. Yeah, that’s what makes me happy. LY: What are your current plans?

LY: Other than the acting classes, what brought you to New York? AP: Milan seems to be a big city but it ‘s a small city. Everyone knows each other. If you go out with somebody, the paparazzi follow you and all that stuff, I don’t like that so much. So I moved here with one of my best friends. We have a house here. LY: So what is the next step for you after New York, any plans on going to LA?

AP: Modeling, it’s still important. I study acting in Italy, but the school I was going to wasn’t so great. So now I am studying with Susan Batson. She is one of the best and discovered Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman, a lot of great actors. So, this is the kind of work Im working towards now.

AP: Yeah I go a lot to LA and have a lot of appointments with managers and agencies. When I am 100% ready, I will start.

LY: Whos your favourite actor?

AP: Yeah. When I started, for me it was like a new world. I was doing boxing. I was a little bit afraid because I was shy. The only advice I can give to the new guys that want to try, is to never give up because there is a lot of competition. There are a lot of models,

AP: Leonardo Di Caprio. I think that his such a great actor and all the roles he’s played are so different, like crazy guy, sweet guy, all the stuff, he is doing so well.

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LY: Any advice for new models coming into the modeling industry?

so when the door closes one time, keep trying. You have to believe in yourself. That’s it, I think. LY: What about fitness, any fitness secrets that you do, because you are so fit? Do you work out a lot? AP: No. Not naturally. I was doing boxing for about 10 years. And I think it’s from that, that I developed my body, but I think that you have to work out, in the summer I go to the swimming pool, gym, boxing, and running along the river. So I’m always doing something. LY: What is your personal style like? AP: I wear very simple clothes. I love to go around with a t-shirt, sneakers… At night, at a dinner, or at an event, I like a shirt, pants, and dress smart casual. I always have a suit with me, you never know.

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Campaigns: Corneliani FW12 Dolce & Gabbana FW10 D&G SS10 Catwalk shows to date: John Richmond SS13 Moncler Gamme Bleu SS13 Carlo Pignatelli SS13 Frankie Morello SS13 Energie SS13 Vivienne Westwood FW12 Roberto Cavalli FW12 Dolce & Gabbana FW12 Vivienne Westwood SS12 DSquared2 SS12 Dolce & Gabbana SS12

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Magazine editorial/covers to date: Flaunt magazine 2012 D Section magazine 2012 Essential homme magazine 2012 GQ China 2012 Hercules magazine 2012 GQ Style Germany 2011 Client magazine 2011 Models.com special Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Optimum magazine 2011 Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel Hommes China 2011 GQ Germany 2011

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IDE 3X1 3X1.US

BIOTHERM BIOTHERM.COM.AU

DIANA HYSLOP DIANAHYSLOP.COM

AARON STRAUP COPE AARONSTRAUPCOPE.COM

BMW BMW.COM.AU

DIOR HOMME DIOR.COM

AESOP AESOP.COM/AU

BOTTEGA VENETA BOTTEGAVENETA.COM

DOLCE & GABBANA DOLCEGABBANA.COM

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALEXANDERMCQUEEN.COM

BRANDO NMI.COM.AU

DRIES VAN NOTEN DRIESVANNOTEN.BE

ALEXANDER WANG ALEXANDERWANG.COM

BURBURRY PRORSUM AU.BURBERRY.COM

DT MODELS DTMODELMANAGEMENT.COM

AMERICAN RETRO NMI.COM.AU

CALVIN KLEIN EXPLORE.CALVINKLEIN.COM

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ZEGNA.COM

ANDREW LAUTERSTEIN ANDREWLAUTERSTEIN.WORDPRESS.COM

CHAD LEON CARGOCOLLECTIVE.COM/CHADLEON

FERNANDO BARRAZA CARGOCOLLECTIVE.COM/FERNANDO

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER ANNDEMEULEMEESTER.BE

CHADWICK MODELS CHADWICKMODELS.COM

GENERAL IDEA GENERALIDEA.CO.KR

BACKSTAGE FIX BACKSTAGEFIX.COM/BSF

CHANEL CHANEL.COM/EN_AU

GIVENCHY GIVENCHY.COM

BART HESS BARTHESS.NL

CHIUN KAI SHIH CHIUNKAISHIH.COM

GUCCI GUCCI.COM/AU/

BEAU COOPS NMI.COM.AU

COMME DES GARÇONS COMME-DES-GARCONS.COM

HEATH NASH HEATHNASH.COM

BELLE FLANEUR BELLEFLANEUR.COM

D SQUARED DSQUARED2.COM/AU

HUGO BOSS HUGOBOSS.COM

BELLE MAGAZINE ACPMAGAZINES.COM.AU/BELLE

DAMIR DOMA DAMIRDOMA.COM

IAIN DAWSON GALLERY IAINDAWSON.COM

BILLY REID HTTP://WWW.BILLYREID.COM

DEL TORO DELTOROSHOES.COM

JO CANDELARIA JOCANDELARIA.COM.AU

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QUEEN STREET GALLERY QUEENSTGALLERY.COM.AU RICK OWENS RICKOWENS.EU ROBBY INGHAM ROBBYINGHAM.COM.AU JUST CAVALLI NMI.COM.AU

MELANIE CLEARY MELANIEPHOTO.COM

ROCHAMBEAU ROCHAMBEAU.US.COM

JUSTIN VIOLINI USTINVIOLINI.COM

MICHAEL BASTIAN MICHAELBASTIANNYC.COM

SAINT LAURENT YSL.COM

KRISTYAN LOW KRISTYANLOW.COM

MICHAEL PYKE SYDNEYSWANS.COM.AU

SEIZE SUR VINGT 16SUR20.COM

LAB SERIES LABSERIES.COM

MODELS.COM MODELS.COM

SHISEIDO AU.SHISEIDO.COM

LAGERFELD NMI.COM.AU

MONCLER GAMME BLEU MONCLER.COM

SKIN DIGITAL SKIN-DIGITAL.COM

LANVIN LANVIN.COM

MONTIQUE EXCLUSIVE FURNTURE MONTIQUE.COM.AU

SONNY VANDEVELDE SONNYPHOTOS.TYPEPAD.COM

LAURA B LAURAB.INFO

MUGLER MUGLER.COM

STYLE.COM STYLE.COM

LOUIS VUITTON LOUISVUITTON.COM.AU

MYKITA MYKITA.COM

SYDNEY SWANS SYDNEYSWANS.COM.AU

LUKE NICHOLSON HAIRBYLUKE.COM.AU

NEIL BARRETT NEILBARRETT.COM

THI NGUYEN THI-NGUYEN.COM

LYNDI SALES LYNDISALES.COM

NEW YORK MODELS NEWYORKMODELS.COM

VERSACE VERSACE.COM

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA MAISONMARTINMARGIELA.COM

NOMA NOMA.DK

VISION MODELS VISIONLOSANGELES.COM

MAJOR MODELS MAJORMODEL.COM

PAT SUPSIRI PATSUPSIRI.COM

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.CO.UK

MASCOT MOSCOT.COM

PRADA PRADA.COM

WILHELMINA MODELS WILHELMINA.COM

MATT ABOOD MATTABOOD.COM.AU

PRISCILLAS MODELS PRISCILLAS.COM.AU

YMER & MALTA YMERETMALTA.COM

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