Everyday Objects Redesigned Studio
Ksenia Semirova Product & Industrial design Raffles University 03.2020
5415161@gmail.com
ďťż
OB SERVAT I O N
On the streets of Bangkok 5 Unusual ways 8 What market offers 10 What the offered options are made of 12 Brands 14
I N SP I R AT I O N
Militaria at Mcqueen’s latest collections 21 Other ideas from fall 2020 menswear 22 Russian military uniform 24 Military uniform findings 26 Crossbody bags & utility pockets are ongoing trends 29 Local Pop-Culture 30
P E RSO N A L E X PE R I E N C E
Cup-holders in personal use 33 Plastic Holder 34 Disposable 35 Neoprene holder 36 Better than plastic one 37 Evaluation 38
ADDI T I O N A L
What cups is market offering Cup features
I DE ATI O N
41 43
Problem /Purpose map 45 Moodboard 47
ďťż
Identifying directions Hardware ideas Ideas for Lid
48 52 59
P R OTOT Y PI N G
Experimenting with paper and Fabric 63 Before Start 64 Paper / Rough prototype 66 Holder Rough prototype 70 ISSEY MIYAKE & Bao Bao 73 Bao Bao and fakes in Bangkok 75 Accordion 76 Design prototyping 78 Concept assembling 79 Bracelet 80 The cup carrier 84 Field test 90 Final design prototype 92 Accordion folding 96
CA D PR OTOT Y PE
Final touches 99 The difference 100 The Hardware 102 Dimensions | mm 104 Branding 109
ďťż
Observation
BANGKOK TYPICAL DWELLER
Observation
BANGKOK TYPI CAL DWE LLE R
O N T H E STREETS O F BA NGKOK
T
he
primary
research
for the project was started with
the observation of local dwellers on the streets of Bangkok. The first noticed thing is that people are always carrying something in their hands. It is tough to see a person free of bags. Usually, a person is taking at least three sacks, including
for the cup caught the attention the most as fas as this notion was never met in other places. During one week, there was an observation of local dwellers in the streets, shopping malls, public transportation, and this cup holder was met pretty often. The funny thing is that it is a bit difficult to make a user profile based on this observation as far as almost everyone carried this cup holder: men and women, every age, different wealth, occupation, etc.
a personal bag (purse, shoulder bag,
It may conclude that a cup holder is an everyday thing for local
or equivalent), and two (or more)
dwellers, and at the same time, this holder could be claimed as
bags with food. Among all this
a distinctive feature of this region; thus, it could be defined as
baggage, the specific container
a basis for this project.
5 On the streets of Bangkok
CU HOL Observation
UP DER On the streets of Bangkok
U NU SUAL WAYS
THE FOLDER WITH THE FULL AMOUNT OF OBSERVATION IMAGES
I
t is funny how people in Bangkok can easily adapt any tool or a device in an absolutely different manner. During
the observation, I had noticed a lot of cases when a cup FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
in holder and just in a plastic bag was hanged to the completely unusual surface (to me).
Also, I have detected that sometimes people can carry more than one beverage. Usually, they carry a bunch of these cups in one big plastic bag or in a lot of separate. And to me, it was absolutely unexpected to see how some people started to carry the holder and another drink in a plastic one. It is clear that the creative interpretation of the design will take place in the market. So, I need to offer a solution that organically will give the option for
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
self-expression.
Observation
Unusual ways
I
W HAT MARK E T OFFE RS
t was detected that usually, people are carrying three types
of cup-holder: simple plastic bag, a plastic carrier with handles suitable for a cup, specific capbag. Therefore, some popular shopping malls and online stores were researched to find any market proposals for this type of product. It could be stated that there were not many exciting offerings. First, most of the items are just fabric bags, usually poor quality. Second, only one option was made of cork (as an alternative sustainable material), but still with not good quality. Third, the cheapest options (made in neoprene) are rarely presented offline, but online delivery (from China) takes a significant amount of time. Overall,
15
although
plastic
packaging is not welcomed these
$
days in Bangkok, at the same time the well-established habit to carry cups from one place to another is seen, the niche of cup-holders is widely open.
2$
Observation
16$
15$
9$
15$ 4$
2$ 15$
What ma rket offers
CORK AND PVC
frequent choice for this type of product so far. The only
option was made of cork. On the one hand, the fabric was chosen as the cheapest FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
WHAT T H E OFFE RE D OPTION S ARE MAD E OF
D
ifferent types of fabric — mostly synthetic — is the most
option to produce this product quickly. It is clear that manufacturing does not require much time and resources. On the other hand, the primary value of this product is to be environment-friendly as much as possible. Neither the choice of material, not manufacturing quality, does not meet it. The life cycle of the presented products is concise. So, producing it with neoprene, polyester, even with painted cotton, seems a waste of the target group money. Pure canvas is the right choice in terms of time/money balance.
Observation
that the bag is multifunctional. The
cork
appropriate
seems
the
materials
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
N EO PRENE AN D P LASTIC
Also, the manufacturer highlighted
most among
the presented. It is environmentfriendly and not usual.
What the offered options are made of
CANVAS
FLUFF, POLYESTER C
PAINTED FABRI C (COT TON)
BRAND S
I
decided to take a closer look at the most exciting offerings I found in local stores. Each of these has a distinctive feature
that can be applied or somehow adapted in the project. Unmelt offers a carrier made of cork. I like the idea of using FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
natural materials, which creates not only a beautiful look but also adds the value of sustainability. Also, Unmelt made nice and precise positioning for their product, giving two size options and visually showing which coffee-shops the offering can be capable.
9
$
Abearable
thought
about
the different purposes of their product. They highlighted that the holder could be used to carry anything. Also, they paid attention to the quality of the product in terms of manufacturing. Stitching is excellent. Even though Achtung!, in my opinion, mostly thought about FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
a pretty and cute look, this offer has a highly valuable distinctive feature — the holder is put into the charm. So it can always be around.
Observation
16$
15$
Brands
WHO
WHAT
HOW
WHERE
Observation
WHY
PEOPLE TAKE AWAY D RIN KS
Brands
Inspiration
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2020 PHOTOGRAPHED BY ETHAN JAMES GREEN
Inspiration
PRADA FALL 2016 RE ADY-TO-WE AR
FAS H ION . H I STORY. P O P- C ULTUR E
T
he problem of personal carrying food & beverage seems highly practical at first sight. But even something that requires
functionality should not be impersonal. One the contrary, these days, things that a person wearing must be unique and must express the individuality of the owner. Couture fashion is the field of pure self-expression of designers and the area of innovation as well. Furthermore, this project took place at the time of Paris Fashion Week 2020, so taking inspiration from the best practice seems wise & rational. Another area to seek ideas is history. It is believed that most of the answers have already done, but it is hard to find the right one as far as you can see yours in an unexpected field.
19 Brands
A
lexander Mcqueen brand was one of the first
Accessories in this collection definitely deserve
who presented Fall 2020 Menswear in
to look closely at. It is pretty minimalistic and stylish,
Paris this season. On the one hand, it was a kind
and easily can be applied in real life. I did not have
of jackpot for the project as far as the brand always
the intention to dig deeper and tried to find out
has something for inspiration. On the other hand,
what Sarah Burton (brand creative director) had
if look closely to some men belts (or better to say
in mind creating this collection (of course, I drilled
harness), it is clearly seen the first idea that came
and figured out that Henry Moore inspired her).
to my mind.
In this case, the visual, to me, is more important than
Inspiration
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
context. I saw a lot of military in both menswear and
RESORT 20 20
RESORT 20 20
FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
MI L I TAR I A AT M CQU EEN ’S L ATE ST C OLLECTIONS
resort collection. It gave me the idea to look a bit
from a cellphone — they put hipflask on the belt.
deeper into the history of army suit.
According to materials, it is nice to see leather
Bags, belts, and other accessories have a little or non-decor, colors are pure, yet could be vivid (that I
(or something like leather) and metal, not plastic or neoprene.
personally highly admire). Also, it is clearly seen that
Overall, the visual references from these collections
they thought about things a man could carry apart
give a great start to develop personal design.
Militaria at Mcqueen’s latest collections
OT H E R ID E AS FROM FALL 2020 ME NSW E AR
LOUIS VUITTON FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
A
fter studying Mcqueen’s collection, I decided to take a quick look at other brands and shows. First of all,
it becomes clear that the problem of carrying beverage concerns designers. Louis Vuitton and Givenchy offered FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
almost identical solutions. Probably, they had in mind something different, but visually these extra pockets look like bottle/cup section. Also, I noticed a lot of cross-body bags that mostly made of leather (or something look like leather), which means that fabric is not the top material now.
I cannot say that the color palette is vivid and/ or bright. On the contrary, there were a lot of bold and plain colors. On the one side, it could be caused by season. Or maybe it reflects social trends. Anyway, this color choice must be
Inspiration
And
other
final
notice
—
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
GIVEN CHY FALL 2 020 MEN SW EAR
kept in mind.
the renaissance of Soviet-style. I will not investigate this direction in my design, but as far as I aim to put part of my native culture to the work, I have to keep this “Soviet references” in mind.
DRIES VAN NOTEN FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
DIOR MEN FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
Other ideas from fall 2020 menswear
RU SSIAN M ILITARY U NIFORM
Here is the list of books were reviewed: •
Russian
military
uniforms
18th to early 20th century by Glinka V.M. •
Russian army 18th to 19th century: 1700-1801 — infantry, cavalry, artillery . 1801-1825 — guards and army infantry by Chernushkin A.V.
•
Russian army 19th to early 20th century: 1801-1825 — cavalry,
artillery,
cossack
troops, militia. 1825-1917 — infantry,
cavalry,
artillery
by Chernushkin A.V. I decided to focus specifically on the Russian uniform for several reasons.
First,
as described
before, the military trend is clearly seen not only in this season but also in several previous. And social
and
political
situation
shows that probably we will have this trend for a long time. Second, in personal works (when possible), I try to bring the piece of my native culture.
Inspiration
Russian military uniform
M IL ITARY U NIFORM FIND INGS
1.
O
bserving the uniform, I decided to take a closer look at several items, among them:
1. The belts with an attached weapon. FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
2. Cartouche (Lyadunka). 3. Pelisse (Gusarskiy mentik).
I had no intention to look too deep at the history and purpose of these things. Only to understand the primary purpose and construction. Visual attractiveness
2.
and some distinctive features were the most important to me. Thus,
the
belts
(1.)
with
the attached weapon give a clue how to connect something fragile to a basic accessory. Cartouches (2.) are tiny bags mainly for bullets that have both a great functionality, including sectioning, and look FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
fantastic. Pelisse (3.) is a stunning accessory that can give a lot of
C ARTO UC HE
ideas on how to attach things one
Inspiration
to another.
I cannot say how these references will be used in the final design. Now, this is more inspiration.
2.
CARTOUCHE
PELISSE
3.
Military uniform findings
S
tarting from at least 2014, designers are on
technology to get rid of it), laptop or tablet,
and on interpreting the idea of crossbody bags
keys, or key-cards, etc. The access for all
and rethinking the concept of pockets. In 2016, the notion “an accessory for your accessory” is appeared on behalf of Prada. To me, all these mean the following: • A person these days must carry a lot on their
these must be instant and comfortable. • The idea of a traditional bag, placed in hand or shoulder, is no longer meets modern needs. Thus, new solutions — a new spot on a body — must be found to distribute all
care tools, wallet (although there is a lot of
baggage.
Inspiration
FENDI SPR IN G 20 19 READY-TO-WEAR
ALEXANDER WAN G FALL 2 014 READY-TO-WEAR
FENDI SPRING 2019 READY-TO-WEAR
shoulders: a cellphone, charger, personal
• Designers are trying to offer new solutions to
Overall, this means that product should be rather
the market to attract customers by distinctive
niched that mass-marketed, and must be both
features.
distinctive (say stylish) and customizable. To me,
• The
concept
“an
accessory
for
your
“niched” is not the type of decoration (cute animals, or pretty pattern), but a functional item that will be
accessory” is part of a massive trend of
readily accepted by a specific target group that is
Customization.
ready for the offered solution.
Crossbody bags & utility pockets are ongoing trends
C ELIN E FALL 2015 READY-TO-WEAR
OFF-WHITE FALL 2018 MENSWEAR
GIVEN CHY SPRING 2017 MENSWEAR
CR O SSBODY BAG S & UTI L I TY POCKETS ARE O NGO I NG TREND S
shows that today bags or purses could be worn creatively
(and by the way with some military connotation). I found this advertisement in one shopping mall. It is promoting FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
LOCA L P OP -CU LT U RE
I
t was interesting to notice that local pop culture directly
a variety of merch for Blackpink girls-band. In general, offered items are not so exciting, but promo itself caught my attention. In these illustrations, girls are wearing hip-bags. This type of bag usually referencing to steam-punk subculture. But here it shows how something specific is converting to pop. Unfortunately,
they
have
not
present hip-bag among promoproducts. But this case shows another
opportunity
to
this
project — to be a distinctive (and maybe a bit geeky) promo-
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
accessory.
Inspiration
Local Pop-Culture
Personal Experience
IMAGE TITLE
Personal Experience
CUP - H O L DERS I N P ER SO NAL US E
B
efore design anything, it needs to experience existing solutions. That is the reason that during one week, I tested
different cup-holders in my daily routine and tried to mimic the local’s habit of carrying both personal cup and disposable. To me, it was necessary to walk with this device not only from home to the local market and back but mostly experience it in public transportation and crowded shopping mall. The other point is looking at this holder from the drinking perspective. In my home country or other places I have been visiting, I have never had a chance to get this kind of user experience. Thus, real curiosity was added to a simple, practical approach.
33 Cup-holders in personal use
PLASTIC HOLD ER
T
o be honest, to me, it was scary. Mostly, I did not want to spill the drink. During the observation,
I saw how people were carrying more than three full cups, and it was fine. I prefer an old-school cardboard tray from Starbucks. For the sake of work, the anxiety was buried, and finally, I bought this drink. Noticed advantages and disadvantages are presented below:
1. This disposable cup looks and feels fickle. 2. The straw is constantly touching the hand. On the street, it does not feel right. Especially if you want to drink. 3. Drinking feels uncomfortable. The hand is always touching your face. 4. It was terrifying to be pushed by someone accidentally. 5. It was scary to squeeze the cup harder. You must be highly careful with this construction.
Personal Experience
DI S PO SAB L E
O
verall, I do not want to repeat this experience at all. First, to me,
it is annoying to observe this trash around the city. Probably, that is one of the reasons I decided to work with this item. I have zero tolerance for such a waste of plastic. Second, this experience is totally uncomfortable for any user from every perspective. As a customer, I always feel scary for my purchase, for my clothes, for someone around me. As a seller in a coffee-shop, I am wasting my time trying to put a fragile cup full of drink into the tiny piece of plastic. And finally, although the public has a well-established habit of utilizing this kind of carrier for a long time and ok this that, as a designer, I believe that could offer something better.
Disposable
NEOPRENE HOLD ER
F
irst of all, I was fortunate to get this holder for the experiments. As mentioned before,
usually, it can be bought only online from China. And I found one on the local market. I spent several days with this holder and tried to gain maximum from it. Unfortunately, one the second day of the experiment, the stitching started unknitting, which
was
expected
considering
the price.
Generally, this holder is better than a plastic one, but still, reveal a lot of usability questions.
1. It is hard and uncomfortable to put a cup inside — especially cup made of soft plastic. 2. You can carry holder not only in your hand but also to put in on the wrist. 3. When there is no straw, it is a vast open hole. The lid must be closed securely. It is unhygienic. 4. Neoprene
is
stretching.
On the one hand, it is okay — different cups might be put. On the other hand, it feels
Personal Experience
uncomfortable
when
this
bag
is
bouncing. 5. Fittings are made of plastic. 6. Sewing technique is primitive — zigzag stitching, but threads look solid.
WALKING W ITH THE BEVERAGE
B E T T ER TH A N P LASTI C O N E
7. It is impossible to put it securely on any surface, including your knees. 8. When you carry it in one hand, you lose your hand. 9. Using the cellphone is complicated when you carry this holder (but possible).
Better than plastic one
AT T H E BRT
E VALUAT ION
P
ersonally, I believe that the culture of “fast-drinking” is not the best option for big-city dwellers. It would be
best if you had a moment to enjoy your drink at coffee-shop. Real-life gives another opportunity. And the request to carry a beverage from one place to another in a more convenient FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
manner is clearly seen. People in Bangkok (the social characteristics do not matter) are carrying at least three bags, not including a purse or a backpack. And having a free hand for playing, chatting, calling, writing, etc. is a luxury. Leaving aside the fact that it is impossible to drink comfortably when carrying such baggage. From this perspective, it is necessary to find a new spot either on a personal bag or somewhere to put the cup. A separate point is hygiene. Current
offerings
cannot
preserve your beverage from the
environment.
Technically,
a personal cup can do that, and
AT THE POST OFFICE
to develop the project.
Personal Experience
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
this is another possible direction
And finally, even if the newly offered solution will be utilized in another way, it is also good, as far as I try to find a kind of alternative for the local market.
Evaluation
THIS BOX IS REALLY HEAVY
AT THE BTS
AT T H E TAXI
Additional
Additional
W HAT CUP S I S MAR KE T O F FER I NG
D
uring the project development, it was noticed a vast offering of personal cups in the local market. It means that the local
community is shifting from utilizing disposable cups to personal items, that would be carrying. In this case, it was essential to think about adaptation of the design to this trend. Thus, I decided to look closely at what kind of cups the local market is offering. I discovered the variety of shapes, materials, sizes, and prices from really simple to piece of real technology. The main point I was interested in is the possibility to drink without a straw, which is the next candidate for banning after plastic bags.
41 What cups is market offering
I
t was interesting to observe what kind of “straw-
Such items also have a robust lock system to protect
less� features have already been invented.
both the drink and the person from spilling liquid.
IÂ discovered a variety of solutions, and some were unexpected. Also, it must be noticed that the lid, not the cup itself is the essential part of whole construction. The cup shape is pretty basic, but the
Second, the example with a kind of strainer was found. The rotating mechanism offer both drinking through a strainer and regularly. Technically, it is possible to use straw in this cup, but I am not sure
top holds the functionality.
the design was made for this function.
First, some cups do not imply utilizing the straw at all.
Third, several examples with kind of installed straw
Instead, it offers the ergonomic shape for drinking.
were observed. The most secure (with solid lock)
Additional
CUP F E AT U RES
item was made for children, by the way. In this
be annoying for the user. Several examples have
example, the silicon straw was installed into the lid
a special section in the lid that is hiding the straw.
securely without an option to remove it. Another
Among everything, this solution seems the best
example has a kind of lid (or cap) for straw, which
but has a considerable disadvantage—the plastic
can be screwed on the top. Generally, the idea is
construction which up and down the straw looks
excellent, but screwing this cap all the time could
pretty fragile and could be accidentally broken.
Cup features
Ideation
Ideation
BANGKOK TYPI CAL DWE LLE R
P RO B L E M / P U R P O SE MAP
B
efore visualizing any ideas through sketching, it
for several sizes of cups. In this case, additional
seemed relevant to evaluate the research and
research is required.
to identify major pain points. In this map, I highlighted problems that design meets and might solve. All these points are crucial for the project, but most attention will be paid to “Free the palm� point as
Although there were no bold restrictions for relevant materials, it seems that it will be challenging to utilize only natural sources for the final design. An
a core of the design. Another essential direction
additional challenge is a necessity to offer a solution
to investigate is making the product extendable
for lid+straw+cup that could complete the design.
45 Problem /Purpose map
Ideation
M OOD BOA RD
Moodboard
Ideation
ID E NT IFYING D IRE CT IONS
Identifying directions
Ideation
Identifying directions
Ideation
HARDWARE ID E AS
Hardware ideas
Ideation
Hardware ideas
Ideation
Hardware ideas
Ideation
Ideas for Lid
ID E AS FOR LID
Ideation
Ideas for Lid
Prototyping
Prototyping
E X P ER I ME NTING W I TH PAP E R AND FA B R I C
D
uring this stage, it is required to visualize the concept by experimenting with different materials physically. One of
my approaches is to explore form more from materials rather than drawings. In this project, I tried to combine both sketching and prototyping. It is hard to measure which approach was more beneficial. I believe that it was equally valuable. Another goal for this stage is exploring new possibilities of wellknown to me materials rather than exploring new ones, but working at the amateur level. I do not think it is a “safe approach.� On the contrary, developing some skills on a more advanced level with well-known material can be highly beneficial for the future. Overall, the main goal is to develop the design prototype as best is possible for the created idea. Additional goals are essential, but not the vital priority.
63 Experimenting with paper and fabric
A
BE FORE START
s far as one of the design features of this project is
to make a holder for several cup sizes, I did fast research about what kind of dimensions these cups are usually made. As was mentioned before, the market for these cups is enormous. And each brand is offering something if not unique, but separate. Also, I noticed that most of the offerings are two cups — large and extralarge. I believe that the user must have a choice not only in colors and types of material (which, by the way, is either plastic or metal) but also in sizes of the drinks (means, cups). That is the reason I decided to make a prototype of my cup that ideally will be selling with or for the holder I design. I will not be focused on the cup design itself. The project is not about the cup. I just want to target the basic dimensions and highlight that the lid it this cup must contain the “straw-less” functionality.
Prototyping
A
nother
reason
a mock-up
for
to
make
cups
is
working in 3d. In my opinion, sketches are greate for visualizing a basic idea of design, but some details are seen more clearly in real objects, even if it is just a paper. Also, the paper is an excellent and cheap material to make prototypes more or less fast. The pattern for both cups and the holder will be developed in Rhino to get precise dimensions. And the digital pattern is easy to correct than pencil-ruler. Additionally, working with paper before fabric could give some other ideas for design in both visual and functional ways.
Before Start
PAP E R / ROU GH P ROTOT YP E
C
reating simple paper mock-ups for cups was a bright idea. Working with physical objects, I believe, is more
beneficial, that only with sketches. First, you can feel the real dimensions better. Second, as far as the prototype is just paper (cheap material), it can be marked as needed, and these marks can be easily changed. Or new rough mock-up can be made fast. (Well, not so fast, but this time is worth it).
Prototyping
U
nfortunately, the paper is not so stable. So I decided to make one pair
of cardboard cups. These versions will be utilized for holder prototyping. Also, in this stage, I certainly chose the final design concept and stopped developing the idea that has seemed not the best.
By the way, all patterns for cups were made in Rhino 6. Detailed dimensions present bellow.
Paper / Rough prototype
S-SIZE
Prototyping
M-SIZE
L-SIZE
CUPS IN FRONT VIEW | MM Paper / Rough prototype
W
H OLD E R ROU GH P ROTOT YP E
orking with cup mockups,
I
made
some
decisions about the construction of the object in general, but the prototype for the holder was
still
mandatory.
Firstly,
to understand the basics of the folding process for a smaller cup.
Second,
to
check
the dimensions that I suggested in Rhino. And finally, to figure out any other surprises that usually appear while sewing. Again, paper prototyping was more beneficial than it was guessed. It became clear that the lid must be smaller. Also, the general idea of accordion became a bit clear. At least, I came up with the dimension of the rings. It was the right time to think about materials more closely. Ideally, it must be nice thick leather that will be hand-sewn with nice hardware. The leather can be washed, or any lining material could help with that and also hide the stitching. But it seems that at least for prototyping I will use something cheaper, say, faux leather.
Prototyping
Holder Rough prototype
B
AO BAO, the accessories brand from ISSEY
to the design approach of architect Frank Owen
MIYAKE, is a line of contemporary bags and
Gehry, who explored the idea of shapes made
pouches designed for both the playful and the bold.
by chance and by computer. Ghery adapted this
The bags and pouches are crafted by fixing small
concept into an actual building, the Guggenheim
triangles of multi-layer polyvinyl and jersey to mesh
Museum in Bilbao, Spain.
fabric. The result is a piece that lays completely flat when not in use, and transforms into an entirely unique form when carried. The way it sits will vary based on the contents of the handbag.
The bags themselves are lightweight, versatile and resilient pieces that are designed to be used. The Lucent makes use of larger triangular pieces, which highlight the dynamic changes of the bag
Inspired by contemporary architecture, BAO BAO
expressions. The result is a more angular, dramatic
titled its flagship bag the BILBAO, paying homage
piece.
Prototyping
$1450
I
$250
PR ISM FLAT POUCH
$750
TONNEAU MATTE BOSTON BAG
PR ISM GLOS S TOTE BAG
I SSE Y MI YAK E & BAO BAO
was not a big fan of this brand... before this
have combined nylon mesh and polyvinyl in this
project. Probably, the reason to be prejudice
triangular pattern that can give a variety of shapes.
about these bags was caused by seeing this design
The company claims that they are continually
everywhere. I just need to do better research next
improving technology and experimenting with
time. The products are unique.
material to get a better product.
They
adopted
approach
even
(or
invented)
before
it
a
parametric
became
hip.
The structure is pretty simple. Back in 2000, they
As for me, I decided to adopt the technology generally, but make the accordion instead of triangles.
ISSEY MIYAKE & Bao Bao
Prototyping
BAO BAO AND FAK E S IN BA NG KOK
Bao Bao and fakes in Bangkok
ACCORD ION
T
he accordion is the most distinctive part of the whole design. It should be both a decoration and a functional element. The mesh
fabric was chosen to form the base (as BaoBao). I experimented with two types of mesh and chose the dense one. Also, I tried both glue and adhesive material for sewing. Finally, latex glue was selected as FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
the best option. The adhesive material did not work correctly. Another challenge was to transfer the pattern to black fabric. I tried several options such as cutting and tracing each stripe, transferring with a white gelly roll pen through tiny holes. In the end, I chose something in between.
The first test was made with black calico and was successful. The
accordion
was
folding
correctly. The second test was failed as far as adhesive material did not glue with the mesh. The third test was a combination of faux leather and more fragile mesh fabric. The result was not
Prototyping
quality. Finally, it was decided to use more dense fabric and latex glue.
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
FIRST ACC ORDION TEST
acceptable because of mesh
It must be said that cutting would be much better utilizing laser cut. Before, I had this kind of experience. The only reason for hand cutting this time is the lack of equipment around.
making
a customizable
cup. I tested this cup several times, and it was always hard to fold it smoothly. Also, a cup itself looks dense, and, to be honest, the volume shrink WHY DOES SILICONE ACCORDION FAIL? While
developing
prototypes,
not much. Not to forget that plastic is not the best choice for health.
I found a new type of cups in local malls. It is a full silicone cup with a similar to mine approach —
Accordion
D ESIG N PROTOTY PING
T
his stage required to physically visualize all ideas into one piece in a new (higher quality)
level and also to check whether it is possible to apply the results of my experiments in the product. Design prototype is not yet an entirely functional manufacturing prototype, but some basic features of the product might be experienced and tested in this stage. Another goal of this stage is to find out the benefits and drawbacks of the chosen material. At the same time, I have no intention to use any precious
materials such as natural leather to prototype. So faux leather is the best option for me. It was chosen two types of fabric to find out any difference in the sewing/assembling process (if it will be found). This stage also requires to work with finished hardware. It does not mean that for the outcome, only this type of hardware must be utilized. On the contrary, in my opinion, the hardware might be another less visible, but the distinctive feature of this product. Moreover, this is a vast field to apply any personal branding as far as I am not a big fan of huge logos.
Prototyping
CO NCE P T AS S EMBL I NG
O
ne of the personal challenges of this project is finding proper materials (fabric
and hardware) in an unfamiliar environment. The difference is that usually, I could quickly and fastly get anything via the Internet. This time I experienced almost forgotten oldschool feeling visiting the local market and trying to find needed in absolutely different shops instead of buying everything in one supermarket.
Concept assembling
BRACE LE T
T
he bracelet is a small but highly valuable piece of the design. A decided to start with it for two main reasons.
First, I have not made the CAD pattern for this piece, but handdrawn it. Second, as far as the part is tiny, it is an excellent could be a problem, so different legs are needed to test.
FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
opportunity to test the sewing process on it. I knew that there
General dimensions I chose measuring the wrists of some local girls. Ideally, the bracelet should also be adjustable for different sizes of hand as the holder can be set up for several cup sizes. But for this moment, IÂ did not make the final decision about that. One of the most challenging parts is the buckle or closing mechanism for the bracelet. I paid a lot of attention to that area while
Prototyping
of ideas. The reason I have not FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
sketching and came to a variety made the final decision about it before is my intention to prove (or disapprove) my final choice while experimenting with materials.
Bracelet
I
made two versions of the bracelet to chose the best options for the final piece. FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
The holding rings were stitched to the leather surface with atlas ribbon, which is denser, and with the piece of faux leather, that is stretching. Neither of these is the best option. Probably, the ring with the metal leg will be utilized.
The buckle was made with the simplest to
make
design the
version
construction
lightweight. But still, there is a problem
with
adjustability.
The cleanest option is using only one screw, but the design becomes a one-size bracelet. I put two screws to experiment with the adjustability and was not
Prototyping
The
final
challenge
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
happy with the visual result. is
the dimension between rings. The difference is tiny — two vs. three cm — the option for the final design will be chosen when all construction will be assembled.
Bracelet
TH E CU P CARRIE R
T
he milestone of the project is assembling the holder in fabric. As far as I experimented with paper and developed
CAD patterns based on the cup mock-up, there was almost no problem with cutting. Using laser cut for more precise FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
cutting would be the best option, but a detailed pattern with allowances and sharp round knife helped me to get through this process as smoothly as possible. The experiments with legs on the sewing machine in the bracelet part were also making this stage a bit faster. Two
main
rules
for sewing faux leather I learned are: •
The
double-sided
tape helps to make stitching
lines
straight. Basting is the best way
to
sewing And
this
working
prevent mistakes. rule for
sewing process.
Prototyping
is
FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
•
any
The cup carrier
H
ere is the record of issues I met while sewing. I was happy that most of the problems could be
claimed as minor and some of them not causing the
FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
design dramatically. The most disappointment is that the accordion is not folding smoothly. Generally, it works. But in this state for any user, it will be tough to fold it. Probably, additional magnetic stripes can be put, or any other solutions. So, for now, I have an area to experiment more if I want to implement this technology into this or other projects. To prevent double work with glue, it must be dried completely! It is obvious but needs to keep in mind. The allowances should not be cut! FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
Instead, they can hide the corset bone that helps to form the shape. The bag legs for the bottom part are not necessary. It is better to change it to silicone stripes or rings. Prototyping
Additional pairs of screws are required to hold stripes more securely. There is a question with the zipper (that I like). To provide an additional option, I will make another option for that.
The cup carrier
T
he test with actual heavy cup showed that for now, the bracelet must be
one size. It is required that the bracelet fits the wrist perfectly to prevent skin squashing. Also, additional silicone stripes will help to fit it more securely.
1.
Prototyping
the bracelet has almost no distortion
while
holding
a heavy cup. But to make the bracelet more secure, two screws will be placed vertically. Overall,
the
whole
construction looks as planned. The minor changes will be put in the final design prototype. Also, an alternative concept of the body/lid connection will be provided.
2.
H
ere is the test with the first and second versions of the bracelet. For
now, it becomes clear that the dimensions for rings placement must be taken from the second option. It looks and feels better when rings are hidden by palm. It
was
confirmed
that
the
most
straightforward option for the buckle is the best. The visual balance in the quantity of metal is required. It was noticed that
The cup carrier
B
FIE LD T E ST
efore making the final design prototype, I decided to take
the holder with me on my morning trip to the school. Usually, I am carrying a heavy bag in one hand and using my smartphone in another. Almost ideal situation to check. Here are some notes about the experience: •
As expected, one hand is still free, and I can take selfies.
•
While carrying, the holder is shaking a bit. Thus, it was correct to pic dimensions close to the cup. Probably, the smaller container will be not so secure in the holder, but folded accordinon can help it.
•
It became clear that the ring must be easily and freely up and down on the surface. Especially it is seen when you up the hand to hold something, for example.
•
Bag legs are definitely useless and must be replaced with flat silicon rings.
Prototyping
Field test
FINAL D E S IGN P ROTOT YP E
F
or the final design prototype, I utilized another type of faux leather. There were just minor differences in sewing
it comparing to the black one. During the work of this example, IÂ took into account all the notes I made before, but there were FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
some new issues. One of that is the attaching holding rings to the bracelet. During the experiment, it was discovered that the first version of mounting rings was correct. Also, I made adjustable stripes. As far as I could now found proper sliders, I took tiny buckles and detached the middle parts.
For this time, I decided to change the zipper to an alternative way of closing the holder. The idea of this new mechanism is two magnet strips that can easily be attached without any efforts from a user. As far as for now, there is no opportunity to produce such type of closing, and I made only a visual representation of that. It was discovered that the one FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
screw for fixing bracelets on the wrist is the only possible option for now. Two vertical screws, as suggested before, not fit the current pattern.
Prototyping
Final design prototype
Prototyping
the bracelet has almost no distortion
while
holding
a heavy cup. But to make the bracelet more secure, two screws will be placed vertically. Overall,
the
whole
construction looks as planned. The minor changes will be put in the final design prototype. Also, an alternative concept of the body/lid connection will be provided.
H
ere is the test with the first and second versions of the bracelet. For
now, it becomes clear that the dimensions for rings placement must be taken from the second option. It looks and feels better when rings are hidden by palm. It
was
confirmed
that
the
most
straightforward option for the buckle is the best. The visual balance in the quantity of metal is required. It was noticed that
Final design prototype
ACCORD ION FOLD ING
I
t was one of the happiest moments of the whole project
to see how the accordion is actually folding, and the holder is shrinking for the smaller cup. To be honest, I thought that the idea of this mechanism would be only the concept with current machinery
Prototyping
and
technology
options. Probably not it the ideal way, but it is folding now and showing that even with glue and simple
faux
leather,
it is possible to make something new. I see a lot of opportunities for the development of this invention, especially with utilizing 3d-printing on the fabric. Another option
is
cutting
patterns more precisely with laser cutting of water jet cutting, which will be more suitable for the fashion industry.
Accordion folding
CAD Prototype
CAD Prototype
F I NAL TO UCH ES
I
assume that it was the first time in my entire practice when the physical prototype in some ways was developed better
than the CAD model. On the other hand, the whole purpose of modeling the product for this stage was to show additional features that cannot be demonstrated on a physical prototype. Also, it was a challenge to visualize a full fabric (leather) based model. Before, I have not had this kind of experience. I discovered a lot of difference between cloth and hard-surface modeling, say furniture or jewelry. Although detailing is vital for anything, I found out that for this task, for example, I could not figure out how to apply stitches fast. Additionally, texturing this time was also more challenging. I discovered a lot of areas for professional improvement, that is the most beneficial.
99 Fin al touches
THE D IFFERENCE
T
he primary purpose of the CAD model is to show some distinctive features that were not applied to a physical
prototype. There are two types of elements: branded FALL 2020 MENSWEAR
hardware and additions that make the accessory more comfortable to wear.
I had no intention of developing unique hardware. Mostly, the final pieces were base on already existing examples with slight changes. It must be noticed that it is an additional field to investigate and design. Also, I am not a big fan of huge logos placed on goods. That is the reason I decided to put my logo in a tiny piece of metal. An additional task was to add some parts to make the holder more comfortable to use and wear. In the inner side of the bracelet, two
silicone
stripes
were FALL 20 20 MEN SWEA R
attached to prevent sliding on the wrist. Also, at the bottom of the holder instead of metal bag legs, the silicone ring was put to make the holder more stable on the surface.
CAD Prototype
The difference
T HE HARDWA RE
E
ven though I did not want to focus on hardware too
much, I have spent some time to model all the pieces and to find the best solution for a given time. The ring that is holding stripes was
significantly
redeveloped
comparing to the first idea. The massive
top
part
was
replaced with more lightweight. And
branding
was
changed
to the logo instead of the full name.
CAD Prototype
I think the claw is the least developed piece of hardware. The bottom
separating
part
of the ring should be replaced from 90° to another angle. The frame for stripes probably should be scaled. The experiments with the physical prototype require to figure out proper dimensions. An additional decorative piece of branding, I believe, could be transformed into something that holds a technology.
The Hardware
CAD Prototype
D IMENSIONS | MM
Dimensions | mm
CAD Prototype
Dimensions | mm
CAD Prototype
BR AND I NG
Branding
Q
uarta is a multifunctional cup holder designed to free the hands and hold in it something more important than a bag with a drink. The accessory is
developed as a wrist-bag that can be easily assembled and disassembled. The distinctive feature of the holder is an accordion system that allows using of different sizes of cups from small to large. The stripes can be adjusted to several options. The Quarta is made from high-quality leather. So it can be cleaned from any dirt.
CAD Prototype
I
learned a lot from this project. First, working with absolutely different culture opens a lot of discoveries, say, observing how locals are
using accessories that the rest of the world do not usually use. So, I had a privileged to go out of the ordinary environment that is required for any designer. Second, I had a chance to experiment with raw materials and to prototype real objects instead of working just digitally. I believe it was highly beneficial for the final result. Third, I discovered a lot of additional areas for the future development of this project, such as cup design, hardware improvement, an alternative closing system for the bag. But most of all - accordion system that can be applied in different bags or other accessories. Although some areas definitely need to be improved, including the improvement of sewing and modeling skills. Also, it would be perfect to conduct additional research with users by providing them the test prototype. Branding
Ksenia Semirova Product & Industrial design Raffles University 03.2020
5415161@gmail.com
