Kleinwalsertal Magazin [nüüs] Summer 2018 English

[nüüs]

My first Alpabtrieb Cheating allowed . . .

NEWS FROM THE KLEINWALSERTAL - The Magazine

Alphorn Festival 2018 5 to 9 September

Summer 2018

SNOWCOMPANY RENTAL · SERVICE · SHOP

6991 Riezlern Close to Kanzelwandbahn Phone +43 5517/3685-40

·OUTDOOR & LEISUREWEAR · E-BIKE&MOUNTAIN BIKE RENTAL ·CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

6992 Hirschegg Next to Walserhaus Phone +43 5517/5417

· HIKINGEQUIPMENT

6993 Mittelberg Opposite to the Walmendingerhornbahn Phone +43 5517/5590 www.snowcompany.at · Kleinwalsertal,Austria

© Cube: Pending System GmbH&Co. KG

· ONLINE DISCOUNTS – BOOK NOW

CONTENTS

04 IN SEVENTH HEAVEN STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

18 THE HEART-SHAPED LAKE CANYONING ADVENTURE

10

20

IMPRINT

Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen A-6992 Hirschegg, Kleinwalsertal Telefon +43 (0)5517 5114-0 www.kleinwalsertal.com DVR: 4010249

All information has been compiled to the best of our knowledge and is not binding. No claims can be made in the event of possible errors.

Less is often more. This magazine aims to set an example, and is printed on 100% recycled paper.

Kleinwalsertal can also be found on:

24 EMMA AND ELMI MY FIRST ALPABTRIEB

30

WINTER PREVIEW

40

34 ALPHORN DAYS

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

3

IN SEVENTH HEAVEN The unique biodiversity on the mountain meadows and the commitment of local beekeepers mean that in Kleinwalsertal, bees feel like they’re in paradise.

Kurt Müller's garden is buzzing. The wooden hut which looks like a garden shed from a distance turns out to be an apiary, and home to 18 colonies. It's midsummer, and everywhere flowers are swaying in the breeze. The furry insects are living up to their reputation for diligence: they are flying in and out of their hives so eagerly that their friendly, gaunt owner has to make sure that nothing blocks their way. Kurt Müller has been keeping bees for over 40 years. For many of these years, he was also chairman of the Kleinwalsertal and Oberstdorf beekeepers’s association, which has more than forty members. Two years ago he gave up the post, but not, however, his beloved bees. After what has happened this summer, however, even a man as calm and experienced as Kurt betrays something of excitement in his face: he has collected more than 20 kilos of honey per hive, five to eight kilos more than usual, and of outstanding quality to boot. The honey’s water content, which determines the flavour in-

tensity of this liquid gold, is not at its usual level of around 18 per cent, but instead a mere 14.7 percent. “It’s like winning the lottery”, he says. “I haven’t experienced anything like this since 1994.” The sensational harvest is mainly due to the unusually favourable, persistently mild weather. Normally, the climate in Kleinwalsertal doesn’t make life easy for bees, and by extension for beekeepers. In lower lying areas the bees awaken from their hibernation in March, and set off for their first cleansing flight as soon as the thermometer climbs above 12 degrees. When nature begins to bloom in April, life in the hives explodes: the queen lays up to 1,500 eggs a day, the colony multiplies rapidly, and the bees begin to build new honeycombs for their offspring. Drones are also bred in the hives, which will later mate with the queens. Once the growth of the colony has reached Its peak, and as long as it is strong and healthy, the reproduction process continues: a new queen is bred, and the old queen lea-

ves the hive with about half the colony. The new, more energetic queen is fertilised by several drones on her nuptial flight, and lays eggs to ensure the survival of her colony.

From this point onwards, that is to say around July, the bees begin their adjustments for winter. The queen lays fewer eggs, leaving more honeycomb cells free in

the hive. The bees now fill them with honey for their winter supplies. As autumn advances, the hive becomes increasingly quiet.

The short-lived worker bees are replaced by winter bees which live for four to six months. They ensure the survival of the queen by forming a cluster around her, keeping both the queen and themselves warm.

In Kleinwalsertal, the bees’ annual lifecycle is significantly compressed: "We have extremely long periods of cold weather. Snow can keep falling into March, and it is often mid-May before everything has thawed completely. Only then do the flowers start to bloom, giving the bees a chance to feed,” explains Kurt Müller. Now it’s time for the Kleinwalsertal “Bien” (or “bee”, as local beekeepers call a bee colony, because the bees work together as if they were a single organism) to turn on the turbo. Raising working bees, collecting pollen and nectar, stocking up on winter supplies: it all has to happen in a hurry. In the middle of August, while children are still splashing in streams

and outdoor pools, the bees are already preparing for winter. By October at the latest, they stop their “flight operations” completely. “All our bees are Carnica bees, so they are naturally conditioned to these weather conditions,” says Müller. The breed is native to the Alpine region, and copes well with the extreme climatic situation. However, this was not the only reason that the valley’s beekeepers decided to plump for the Carnica bee in the years after the Second World War: “It’s a very mild-mannered breed, not very prone to stinging”, continues Müller. “This is not just important for the beekeeper. In a valley where tourism plays a major role, aggressive bees would be quite disastrous.” Despite the peaceable nature of the Carnica bees,on the other side of the Breitach, Achim Schneider’s smoker is belching out smoke. Schneider has the largest number of bees in the whole Vorarlberg region and, despite the risks involved, has turned his hobby into his career. Depending on the weather, in summer he KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

5

keeps his colonies at nine to eleven fixed locations between 1100 and 1650 metres. He visits every hive regularly to check that all is

well. At the moment he is inspecting the beehives – or “Beuten” as they’re known in the trade – near his home in the Schwende. When their hive is opened, even the mild-mannered Carnica bees sometimes respond with a sting,

which is why beekeepers ignite the smoker on such occasions. However it is not the spicy, burnt-smelling smoke that makes the bees dopey, as one might expect. “To the bees, the smoke suggests a forest fire and, even also these bees are domesticated, it initiates instinctive actions that they have inherited from their wild, forest-living ancestors”, explains Achim Schneider. “If they think there is a fire, they prepare to escape by filling their bellies with honey. As a result, they become lethargic and are less likely to sting.” Apart from the smoke, however, the hives of domestic bees have little in common with the tree cavities where wild bees once built their honeycombs.

In Achim Schneider’s apiary, as with most other beekeepers, each colony lives in a socalled Langstroth hive. This is a box with a lid in which rectangular frames are hung, each

example, where the wax lids used by the bees to seal the filled honeycombs are lifted off with a kind of fork, is a procedure that requires both strength and skill. “There are machines that do it, but they don’t pay off for the volume of honey I make”, Schneider states. Once the frames are uncapped, they are hung vertically in the round, stainless steel centrifuge. Once it reaches high speed, a tap at the bottom is opened, and out runs the shimmering, amber honey into the bucket below. Achim Schneider doesn’t just use the empty wax honeycombs to make candles. He runs what beekeepers call a “closed wax cycle”: he cleans the combs, melts them down, and forms them into plates with an embossed honeycomb pattern. Then they are re-affixed into the hive frames, once again ready to serve as the basis for his bees’ construction. However, the machine required for this is only profitable for major beekeepers like Schneider, not for hobby beekeepers with just a few colonies. Schneider does offer customers the service of turning their wax into new honeycomb frames. With no cities nearby, his customers are mainly other local farmers from the countryside. The new trend that is leading growing numbers of city dwellers to keep bees has Schneider shaking his head: “Beekeepers should be in

DID YOU KNOW?

Active beekeepers: 9 businesse Bee colonies: approx. 500 colonies To make one glass of mountain blossom honey, worker bees have make approximately 40,000 flights.

To make 500 g of honey, bees cover an average distance of approximately 100,000 km.

Visiting the beekeeper: about bees and honey

“Once the bee disappears from Earth, the human race has only four years left to live.

No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no more people.” (Albert Einstein, 1949). Learn about the role bees play in nature, and how beekeeping can help preserve the cultural landscape. Beekeeper Kurt Müller takes you into the exciting world of these industrious insects.

Friday

11.05., 18.05., 01.06., 15.06., 29.06., 13.07., 27.07., 10.08., 24.08., 07.09., 14.09.2018 Time: 14:00, € 9, children under 12 free (must be accompanied by an adult)

Beekeepers in Kleinwalsertal

Master beekeeper Achim Schneider +43 (0)5517-30471, www.walser-honig.at Müller Kurt +43 (0)5517-5721, k.mueller@aon.at Abler Leo +43 (0)5517-5320

Edlinger Herbert +43 (0)5517-6118, www.einfachgut.at

with a wax plate. On these wax plates, the bees build their honeycombs. Then they lay their eggs in the honeycombs or fill them with honey. This time, the inspection is without incident. The bees are peaceful, despite the lid on each hive being lifted.

Schneider, who only rarely wraps himself in protective clothing, gets away without a single sting. Briskly, he returns to his house and heads up to the little shop. Here, on the first floor, is where Achim Schneider has his production facility: he extracts and stores his honey, and processes his wax. Most of this year's honey harvest is already bottled, but there are still a few frames with full honeycombs waiting to be emptied. Despite the relatively large amounts of honey he produces, Schneider does a lot of it completely by hand. The uncapping process, for

Sättele Toni +43 (0)5517-6556, www.naturhotel-laerchenhof.at

Scharnagl Jürgen +43 (0)5517-5276, www.zwerwaldhof.at

Jochum Reinhard +43 (0)664-2510277 the country, not in the city”. True. However, the mere fact that cities are now considered a bee-friendly environment, despite their built-up nature and exhaust fumes, demonstrates the extent to which bees are now endangered. Places like Kleinwalsertal, with extensive pastures and a wide range of flowers, have long since become lonely oases. Where large-scale farming is practi-

Hilbrand Poldi +43 (0)676-840636773

Walser weekly market

Walser honey and other regional specialities can be found on Dorfplatz in Hirschegg every Friday from 9:00 to 12:00.

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

7

ced, due to the intensive cultivation methods, the trend towards monocultures and the use of chemical sprays, bees have fewer and fewer opportunities to find enough food from spring to autumn. The situation is so dramatic that in many places, cities now offer a better environment for bees, thanks to the flowers in private gardens, parks and window boxes. In addition, there has been a drastic decline in the number of rural beekeepers. Many farmers who used to be involved in beekeeping have long ago given it up. At least in the cities, in the wake of the trend for self-sufficiency, more young people have recently been inspired to invest in bee colonies. But idealists are not just to be found in urban areas.

Herta Fritz, the youngest of Kleinwalsertal’s beekeepers, was above all influenced by her concerns about nature conservation when she yielded to the insistence of the local beekeepers' association and took over a bee colony – despite the fact that she is allergic to bee venom, and every sting re-

presents an acute threat. Wearing a robust white jacket, gloves, and a hat with a veil is her absolute duty whenever she visits her bees, of which she now has two colonies.

They “lodge” on the terrace of her accounting office, located right on the Breitachbrücke in Riezlern. “Of course, I love honey too”, she says when asked about her motivation. “But for me, the focus is on nature.

When there aren’t enough bees, nature breaks down.” There are many reasons for the declining number of bees – from the appearance of the Varroa mite, which despite sustained efforts to combat it, is still eradicating entire colonies, to the changing agricultural landscape, and last but not least the dwindling number of beekeepers. The figures are now so alarming that the drastic loss of bees and insects has been headline news several times. In Germany, the current number of bees can provide just 20 percent of the honey required, and can pollinate just 60 percent of the agricultural land. The decline in bee numbers will cause

massive crop losses: without bee pollination, some plants will still grow, but there would be about 40 percent fewer apples and cherries, 12 percent fewer pears, and 5 percent fewer carrots. Not to mention the effect on our entire ecosystem, which relies on these hard-working hymenopterans. In Austria the situation with respect to bees and beekeepers looks a little better, but statistics like these make it clear just how important dedicated beekeepers and scenic “bee havens” like Kleinwalsertal are.

Let's hope that the beauty of such regions is sufficient to motivate imitators elsewhere.

■ Text: Dr. Claudia Teibler Images: Dominik Berchtold

BEE careful – be there!

Despite Kleinwalsertal being an oasis for insects and bees, the “BEE careful” project has recently been launched. From the summer of 2018, there will be a flowering garden near the Walserhaus in Hirschegg which over time will come to serve as a home for various insect and wild bee species. Both locals and visitors are involved in the garden’s design and implementation.

Various collaborative projects will be ongoing throughout the summer. The pro-

gramme includes planting activities and the construction of a large insect hotel from natural materials, as well as botany workshops and exchange forums. In the garden itself, interesting facts about bees and insects are presented, while benches invite you to linger, observe and enjoy. With the help of experts, we have put together a flower seed mix for our guests – they can be obtained free of charge at our information desk in the Walserhaus in Hirschegg.

Create a bee oasis in your garden at home or even on the balcony, and slowly but surely you will help us to carry our “BEE careful” project out into the world.

You will also see plenty of “BEE careful” information as you walk through Kleinwalsertal. All “BEE careful” information and dates can be found at: www.kleinwalsertal.com/beecareful

DELICIOUS HONEY RECIPES Cooking with honey

Honey is so much more than a sweetener. Use it more often as part of a healthy diet. It contains important vitamins and nutrients, and can even prevent colds.

A simple slice of toast with honey for breakfast can work wonders, and a little honey in your tea adds a delicate touch of sweetness. Soups, sauces and even meat dishes can be beautifully refined with a tablespoon of honey.

“Jürgen Scharnagl shows us how to make crunchy honey goat’s cheese” www.kleinwalsertal.com/sommernuus

Honey is also the perfect ingredient in salad dressings. Honey is an entirely natural food, to which nothing should be added. Below are two delicious honey recipes by Jürgen Scharnagl, one of our Kleinwalsertal beekeepers.

Crispy honey goat

y dressing it and hone u fr n io ss a P pulp assionfruit • 100 g p (no juice) live oil • 6 0 ml o getable oil • 60 ml ve oney • 75 g h ater • 5 0 ml w salt/pepper

a handedients with gr in e th l al Mix to taste. and season held blender weeks.

-3 2 elf life is sh e th , ed ill Ch

's cheese (for 6 people) • 1 roulade go at's cheese • 40 gr. trail mix • 10 gr. pumpkin seed s • 10 gr. cashews • 10 gr. walnuts • 1 Zweig ro semar y • 60 gr. honey • 1 TL hibiscus chilli balsamic vine gar • 2 TL balsamic vine gar • 2 TL sea salt, coarse ly ground pepp er Method:

Roughly chop nuts, seeds an d rosemar y. M gether. Cut the ix all ingredient goat's cheese s toin to 1-2 cm slices on top of each . Sprinkle the slice and bake mix in th e oven at 220° tes.

C for 15 minu-

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

9

TRAILBLAZER . . . STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN Uli Ernst is a mountain guide and Alpine path builder. He has a passion for both occupations.

“Building paths provides a good balance to guiding”, he says. As a mountain guide, he also checks out paths built by the “competition” when on tour in other Alpine regions. A conversation about his passion for beautiful paths...

Sometimes, when Uli is working as a mountain guide in Alpine regions other than Kleinwalsertal, he is surprised. He wonders about the state of some of the paths. Sometimes, for example, instead of a well-recognisable Alpine path, there are several trodden tracks leading uphill. He doesn’t like that, our Uli ...

He stops for a few seconds, grinning mischievously. Anyone who deals intensively with the subject of Alpine path construction knows that well-preserved and clearly marked paths increase the safety of climbers and hikers, and reduce the number of mountain rescue operations. In addition, easily recognisable

paths can help to keep soil erosion in check by reducing the number of individual paths people tread, which can cause additional damage to the grass cover. All this, and they look good too.

Uli is an aesthete. He likes it when things look nice. Paths should fit in with the sur-

rounding terrain, and factory-standard benches have no place in his house, or next to his paths. He emphasises, “I try to use all the materials that are already there”. Maybe this has something to do with the fact that Uli is also a trained carpenter... He uses what grows nearby and offers itself. From these

materials he creates, for example, cosy spots such as the one on the “Ifenweg”, built in 2017, where we are currently sitting and talking about paths...

The new Ifenweg – planning applications, first ascents and secluded spots

Various construction measures in the ski resort on the Ifen meant that a new path between the Auenhütte and the Ifenhütte became necessary. A clear case for our path builder and his team. The work kicked off in the spring of 2017. Uli takes us on a short journey back in time to the building of the KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

11

Ifenweg. Long before Uli can set off with his pick-axe, shovel and chainsaw, there is some red tape that has to be completed: first of all, GPS data are used to examine the terrain on the computer and discuss possible paths. It is also necessary to clarify land ownership and obtain permits from the landowners. If the lush meadows are also home to cattle in the summer, the Alpgenossenschaft (Alpine Cooperative) must also be involved and give its agreement. Only once all of this has been done does Uli start the first ascent. For him, it is important that the path adapts to the terrain, and a natural path is created, so to speak. If he has achieved a consistent ascent, then he marks this with coloured dots.

These are important for subsequent ascents with the concerned parties – as Uli emphasies, it makes the path easier to imagine. For the Ifenweg, representatives of Naturschutz, Bergbahn AG and the Alpine Cooperative met for the trial run. They liked the path, meaning that the next step for Uli as a self-employed path builder was to prepare a cost estimate and submit it to those responsible. Uli compares the procedure to that of a home building application, which makes the dimensions a little more vivid. If his estimate is checked and approved, then he can get started. The new Ifenweg took Uli and two others a week to finish, including advance scouting of the route and designing the pretty seating alongside the path.

Picasso takes care of the markings, while Uli is more about the bigger picture Chatting in this secluded oasis, with the wind

“I have to like it” Uli Ernst, mountain guide

rustling softly through the trees and the scent of resin in the air, I think, “Finally, a man with an eye for romanticism”. Just at that moment, Uli says: “I'm more about the bigger picture.” I want to know more... Uli explains that in the valley some mountain guides have dedicated themselves to path building, and there is one guy in particular, the “Picasso”, who walks the Alpine paths every spring, refreshes the coloured markers and generally makes sure that everything is as it should be. “That’s not for me” says Uli, with the utmost respect for Picasso. He is really at home with the “big machines”, as he calls them. If a helicopter is needed, wire cables are being laid, or generators need to be towed along a ridge, then Uli is in his element.

The perfect balance to guiding For my part, I have the greatest respect for the work of both path builders! For hiking fans, the thought of traversing many kilometres of Alpine terrain every spring with a paint bucket and a clutch of repair tools is somewhat exhausting. And when the selfproclaimed big-picture man hits the trail, he and his co-builders often carry 40 kg or more on their backs – another thought that doesn’t exactly fill me with joy... “I have to like it”, is Uli’s simple comment. One look at his mischievous smile and it becomes clear: he does like it, very much... For him, path building is the perfect balance to his job as a mountain guide. He is passionate about being a mountain guide and taking responsibility for his guests, but from time to time he

enjoys the complete freedom of being in the mountains, unencumbered, with a heavy backpack. He likes doing technical things, such as securing ropes, he says, and grins.

Building, bivouacking and barbecuing: the activities of a path builder In addition to building new “stairways”, Uli’s work also includes path repair, for example in the Gemsteltal, when a single storm made the steep path through the gorge to Upper Gemstelalpe impassable in the blink of an eye – huge amounts of water swept the path away as if it were nothing. The repair was a complex job, requiring more than just a bit of brute force

with a pick-axe. In steep terrain, the repairmen had to secure themselves, lash down the necessary building materials, and restore a ropesecured pathway while practically dangling from what was left of the path, weighed down with heavy equipment. In addition to the technical and physical challenges of his work, Uli appreciates the team spirit above all. He has especially fond memories of securing the north and south sides of the Ifen. The long hike up each day would have taken too long, so they bivouacked up on the mountain, right next to the site. “We took up some food along with the building materials, and in the evenings we had a barbecue. That was really something spe-

cial”, enthuses Uli. He says nothing of the physical hardships associated with a building site at an altitude of 2000 metres – instead, he reflects on the wonderful evenings he spent with his colleagues, surrounded by nature. For me, that's true passion!

Walser path-building – a long tradition The building, maintenance and repair of Alpine pathways have a long tradition in Kleinwalsertal. Ever since the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal was set up, the mountain guides have taken care of the paths. Uli's father also worked as a mountain guide, and was thus involved in path building and maintenance. In this sense, Uli is

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

13

the second generation of his family involved in the profession. Why do they do it, I ask.

“For me, it’s the best thing we can do for our summer tourism and the region, keep everything looking great. It’s not the case everywhere”, explains Uli. As a mountain guide for the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal, he knows that guests also come to the region especially for this reason, and the paths therefore have to be kept in tip-top condition.

■ Text: Susa Schreiner Images: Andre Tappé

The geological pearls of the Alps: Mountain tour on the Gottesacker

What is perhaps the best-known karst region in the Alps enchants visitors with its bizarre shapes and secluded location. Visit this astonishing work of nature, and learn about the geology and botany of the Alps.

A great day out for the whole family.

Every Wednesday, 9:30, approx. 5-6 hours.

€ 50 adults, € 42 children aged 7 and over (must be accompanied by an adult)

From 27 June to 10 October 2018.

Walser path-building

Every summer, the municipality of Mittelberg budgets for 800 to 1,000 working hours, which the Alpine path builders use to build new paths, and maintain and repair current paths.

New paths have to be “broken in”, and require much more intensive care than old, well-walked Alpine trails.

The network of paths in Kleinwalsertal covers over 200 kilometres, and including Oberstdorf the total rises to over 400 kilometres.

Ifenweg

For the most part, the "new Ifenweg" between the Auenhütte and the Ifenhütte meanders romantically through a dense mountain forest with many mighty spruces and beech trees. The path repeatedly leads hikers through small glades offering magnificent views of Kleinwalsertal and the surrounding mountain peaks.

It is definitely worth taking a break at the cosy seating area with picnic table. Also worth a stop-off are the Ifenhütte and the Auenhütte.

From here, you can also continue up to the summit of the Ifen and the imposing Gottesacker plateau.

Fancy going on tour with mountain guide and path builder Uli Ernst? Then visit www.bergschule.at or contact the Bergschule by phone: +43 5517 30245. Incidentally, Uli is also a passionate via ferrata builder, if you're in the mood for fixed ropes.

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

15

Biberko koppf 2657

2599

MädeleTretttach- gabel Tr spitittze 26445

Gr.Kro r ott ottten nko kop pf Krat attzerr

RappenHohes LLicht seeko kopf pf 2651 Linkkerskkop opf 24468

2595

242 24 4228 27 2271

ch Vord rderrerr1993 193 935

lp

1114

nt

Kannzelwand-Hs. lwand-Hs. d--Hss. 1520 220

l

Bieerenwang-A nw wangg-A A. 15580

ta

Anatswald attsw wald d

l

Fell

Schattten tt nberrg

Gottenrrieed

hor

Zw wischenein-// ausst stieg

17211 Laiiter

ttach Trett

Ne

Ob A Bierrenw nw wangg-A 177377 S

Hööflee--A A.

ta

h

Oytal

ch la

c

17759

Kühgundd-H. 174 7445

h

il St

Himmelschrrof ofen

c

949

a ChristlesChhhri riistle tlleessee

Untere Guuten-A A.

Birrgsau sau

tt

Ge erstrub ben 1154 54

a

e

174 7448

ll

Tr

Sttuib ibeenfa fallll ib

ti

al

Rif iff ffenkkop pf

att-H. Hiindelanger Koblat Klet ettterrste stteeig Edmund Ed Station Prrobbst-Hss. Hööfatsblickk 1192 927 92 27

p

a

S

be

a

p

n

Warm

tru

R

Einödssbach

e

Warmat atssgund un nd d

Fideerepass-H s-H H. 2065

21777

l

atsg

Wild dgundkkoppf

19959

ta

al

Hinntere rerr19555

al

undt

er ht

ch

ac

Kegelko kop pf

rs

gehre r n

2259

Alpgundko kopf

Ba

fb

2258

Ge

Oberrstddorf rfer Hammerspiitz tze ze

lo

223 22 2335

au

Hö öfa atts

Kässerr-A. 14400

2191

Wildengundko kopf

237 23 3776

Tr

Eis Ei issseee

242 24 4225

Rapp R app pppe pensee

Krreuzeck

23384

Kempt ptne erköp pffle

2459 24

Fürschiießer Rauheck

Mindeelhhe

Hochrappenkkoppf

Sö S

Faist sttennoy 904

be

lh

Rinngang anng

or

nb

Diet ete terrsberrg

ah

n

Oyba ch

Grubben

Goolfplaatz

Geiß ßfuß 19980

Obb. Geiisalp alppseee 17669 17 69

Rubihorrn 19957

Freibergsee ib ibergsee ber ergsee rgsee gsee see eee

Sttaattio S on S Seeeealppe 1280

Moooriher weih

Geißalphorn n 199533

Kühbeerg

üütte Ziegelbbachhüt ttte Loretto

Sch chhat att ttenber nbberrgs hanz sch nzzen

lpsee Geisalp lps 1509

Krappberg rapppberg berg

Obers Ober rrssttd tdorf dorrrff 813 m

A pe Ober Al ber Seew ewegg

Brreitenberrg

N

Reut utte Jauchen

ERKLÄRUNGEN Ä

Widdderrstein st 2558

Zw wölflferrkopf ko 2224 2224

gu

nt

Max axx-H.

l Wa

n me

din

r ge

wa

G Gehrenspit ittze

ndb

18857

Bre itac h

ahn

Schlapp lap app ppo ppolllddsee

Schlappoldk h koppf

Berg ghaus am Söller 1

Innerrwestegg-A -A A.

10086 86 m

Schnneiderküren-A derrkü ren-A -A. küren-A

al Wäld d dele

tal hd Ma

Mahddtal-A l-A. -A 14499

Höf öfflee-A A. 11990

Eggg

Innnerrschw hw wende

Außerrschw hwennde

Schrrattt ttenwang--A A. Sc

Schönblic ck

hn

Straußbeerg Klaussenw nw wald

Waldd W

kba erec

Caffe Ca Walsserblick

Mahd Mah hdt dtal-Hs. al-Hs

Un nter terweesteegg 124 2440

Amannns-A A A.

Söll

199677

Oberre G Gottesackerwände ottesackerwände ttesackerwände t sackkerrwände te wände nde

Rieezlerrn

EIN

17706

Hörrnleppasss s

l

Wallserschaanzze

rrst std ttdorrf

t ch reita Bre

Hin ntere ren nge

Unt nteres teres Höörnle Aussserrwald d-A A A.

Bre

itac hkl am m

Zwingst stteg

ornau

Dornach-A A. Hochsstatt

2080

G o t t e s a c k e r Goott ttesacker k rschart rt rte

nI

Au

KL

Söllerreckk

ölleerr-A A. 15

Ife

Naturrbrrückke

WA

LSER

Rie ezler-A r A. 152 5226

19968

Beerrg gssttaattioon Ifen feen II II

Aueen-H. 127 2775

TA L

n bah

1710

Hahnenk h köpfle p

13353

ar

Hirrschegg h g 11222 m

r nSchlapppoldld-AA.

222 228 28

Melkööde

ub

zel

er

Rohr Zw weren-A A.

Hoher Ifen en

Ifersgunnt-A A. 1751

Ifen-H. 15586

He

. .

Stati tion 7 Schlap ppold dsee

gb

194 9449

Schhwarrzwassser ser-H.

hw

Zafferrna

Panoormarrestaurannt

Kan

Ob. Walm mendingeer-A r A. W 1560

Sc

19910

Gip pfel fellstat station

h

ba

Sonna-A A. Inne erkuhge ehrren-A A. 1673

Kuhgehrrenspit ittze

19900

12215 m

Bödmen

l F ht-A Fluch A. 13390 Wiees-A A. Un ntereInneere12298 Adlerrho orst

Bühlh -A A. 144222

n or

hn

rt

Stutz-A -A. A 14778

berg Mit ittte telb rg

nta

16651

124 244 44 m

tal

1752 52

as

tel

Hehlekopf kopf pf

Gehrachsattt ttel

n

lde

Unt ntteree157 571

ah

Wi

ddkkoppf

l

Baad ms

2170

22252

ta

19982

zw

Ge

Walser Hammerrspititzze

Hochnspit ittze

Steinmannl Obereerere e17760

Lüchle A.

r

eim merr-H. 2058

20339

erhhof-A -A..

se

23387

Grrünhorrn

209922

183 8330

e

23384

Günt ntlesspit pittze

Wannenbberrg

Kl.W lW Widders idderrsttein ein

Elfferrko k pff kopf

D

Liechelkopf iechelkkoppf

Mooos-A s-A. A 12211

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

17

THE HEART-SHAPED LAKE There it is, idyllic, embedded in a lush green mountain meadow, framed by mighty conifers. Its calm surface reflects the surrounding mountains against a bright blue sky. If you didn’t know better, you would think it had always been there. The Herzsee (or “Heart Lake”) on the Ifen was planned by engineers in 2016, excavated with diggers, and filled with water via natural inlets.

Inner values This reservoir for the snowmaking system on the Ifen has grown together with its environment. It took just one season for the lake to become a jewel, and a worthy photo opportunity on the trail. However, its principal task is not to look beautiful. As so often in life, its inner values are what’s important – and in this area, the Herzsee has nothing to hide.

The storage lake is up to eleven metres deep, and holds around 100,000 cubic metres of water. It makes a significant contribution to the snow on the Ifen. In the winter, 76 snowmakers suck water from the lake, distributing fine white sprays of powdery snow on the slopes as required.

Deliberately not circular Those in charge of the OBERSTDORF · KLEINWALSERTAL BERGBHNEN named their storage reservoir the Herzsee (or “Heart Lake”) due to its shape. It is located just below the Auenhütte and the Gaisbühl lift, or between “Gaisbüal” and “Ochsaauba”, as the locals

The “heart” of the snowmaking system

say in their charming dialect. It was a conscious decision not to choose a symmetrical, artificial-looking oval, but instead to select a natural outline. The best place to see the heart shape is from halfway up the Heuberggrat.

Ecologically built The pond is a model of modern engineering.

Full snowmaking functionality goes hand-inhand with great environmental credentials.

From the first moment, those responsible embarked on a natural, environmentally responsible construction method. They used the preparation time to visit several storage ponds designed to fit very well into their natural environment. From the impressions and experiences gained, they learned from positive examples and integrated them into the planning and implementation of the Herzsee.

The work finally took place in the summer of 2016 under the expert eye of an ecological building supervisor. Each individual construction phase was carried out in close coordination with environmental ecologists.

For example, for the sake of sustainability, the dam and the pond crown were planted with grass sods and tree stumps from the surrounding area. Both the grass and the trees, therefore, were not brought to the lake from elsewhere, but had always been there: during the works, they were gently dug out, so that they could be reused for the storage dam. For this reason, and thanks to its

shape, the Herzsee blends unobtrusively into the surrounding landscape. Another example of the amount of thought that went into the implementation is the resue of the excavated earth: instead of being loaded onto trucks and driven through Kleinwalsertal, it was all reused on site at the reservoir, and also for nearby piste improvements in the ski area.

Natural cycle During the 2016/17 winter season, the nearnatural storage pond fulfilled its original purpose for the first time: it now provides water for the snow cannons, as well as playing an important role as an “interim storage site” for the water. This stops the surrounding streams from being damaged by a short-term increase in water demand. The water level in the Herzsee

decreases until the snow melts in spring and it is replenished by its natural tributaries. The result is a full lake, providing a visual treat for hikers in the summer months, as well as a place to refresh tired feet. It is the natural water cycle, with a short detour via Kleinwalsertal’s snowmaking equipment and pistes.

■ Text & images: Oberstdorf · Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen

FACTS AND FIGURES Size: Capacity:

Construction time: Location: Winter: Summer:

190 metres long 110 metres wide Eleven metres deep

100.000 cubic metres 7 months, April to September 2016

at the fork between the hiking trail and the forest path to Melköde Provides water for 76 snow cannons

A refreshing treat for hungry eyes and tired feet

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

19

OUR CANYONING ADVENTURE An truly rewarding experience with the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal

We were on the hunt for a new sporting challenge for this year’s holiday. By chance we came across canyoning. Adrenaline, fun, action – the description grabbed us immediately, so we registered for a canyoning tour with the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal.

We were told to bring waterproof shoes and swimming gear, and that everything else would be provided. With great anticipation and excitement, we drove to the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal, where canyoning guide Martin welcomed us and gave us a brief introduction regarding equipment and procedures. It soon became apparent that Martin is a passionate canyoning guide and and

absolute pro. We were given a wetsuit with a jacket and neoprene socks, a helmet, a special canyoning belt and a via ferrata kit. The wetsuits were skintight to make sure no water could get in at the ends of the sleeves and legs. We all felt a bit weird. The protective area on the buttocks looked especially strange.

But once we were sliding over stones, we were very happy to have the extra upholstery! It made sure that we survived the tour without bruises on our behinds. We had to drive a short distance to the entry point, then it was time to go. We were ready for adventure! We jumped into the cool, clear water of

the Schwarzwasserbach. Ooof! It was pretty nippy! But thanks to our neoprene suits, the water adapted relatively quickly to our body temperatures and it didn’t feel too bad. With all the action and excitement, we had no time to feel cold. For the most part, canyoning takes place in the water: you traverse a gorge through a mixture of walking and swimming.

Jumping in pools, abseiling, and sliding over rocks provides plenty of variety and new challenges.

Full of anticipation, and with a slightly queasy feeling in the pits of our stomachs, we followed Martin through the gorge with steep rock faces, accompanied by the sound of

directly under the jets of the waterfall. The feeling was indescribable. The water had me completely under its spell.

At the end of our canyoning tour, we reached a natural bridge. An this almost mystical-looking spot, which also attracts a lot of hikers and thus ensured we had a few spectators, our tour came to an end. Unfortunately!

Below this natural bridge was a beautiful, turquoise pool. There were various ledges at different heights, perfect for jumping into the water below. Once again, we gave it our all!

It was a huge amount of fun – we were all able to let go and push our own limits. Our guide Martin was enjoying himself just as much.

Hungry and thirsty, happy yet exhausted, and nourished by this adventurous experience, we finished our tour. The verdict was unanimous: it won’t be our last time! We enjoyed the perfect blend of fun and action. For nature-loving sports enthusiasts with a head for heights who are looking for a thrill, canyoning is the ideal adventure with added value.

■ Text: Carolin Müller Images: Dominik Berchtold

water. Before long, we were standing in front of the first precipice: an 8-metre rock face, with a deep blue pool below. Suddenly I realised: we were going to have to get down there. We were off to a great start!

However, if you absolutely can’t face jumping or abseiling down, it’s not a problem; there is a hiking trail that runs alongside the length of the Schwarzwasserbach. This means you can get out or take a break at any time. In the end, I was somehow able to switch off my brain and make myself jump off the cliff.

The pure thrill of adrenaline. It was amazing!

Our tour continued as we followed the course of the water through the narrow, dark,

wildly romantic ravine. Now we were really getting a taste for it! We wanted more, and excitedly awaited our next challenge.

The atmosphere in the gorge was absolutely stunning, simply breathtaking; the beautiful colours of the sunlight shone through the treetops onto the water and conjured up light reflections on the grey cliffs. We couldn’t get enough!

But then came our next highlight: an abseil from a height of about 30 metres, directly under a raging waterfall. Wow – this really topped everything we had experienced up to this point! I was able to abseil down myself, KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

21

Hiking in Kleinwalsertal Walking, hiking, mountaineering, climbing, running, Nordic walking, canyoning . . . the hiking region of Kleinwalsertal is exceptionally versatile and varied.

Round every corner, there is another valley to explore, a new mountain to discover, a completely different face of the region to enjoy.

The panoramic views are tremendous - and not just from from the summit. Even on the mountain trails, at altitudes from 1,300m to 1,500m, the scenery is impressive. So it doesn’t matter whether you opt for a pleasant hike and “only” traverse the gentle routes into the side valleys or along the high-altitude trails - many of which are accessible with prams - or whether you reach the mountain station, or even the summit - here, there are no limits.

Climbers get their money’s worth on our climbing mountains, in our climbing and high ropes course, and on our four via ferrata. The

Kanzelwand adventure trail is even suitable for children (age 8+).

Routes usually start on your doorstep and if necessary, you can shorten the distance with the Walserbus, which is included with your guest card. Once you are on the trails, approximately 40 huts, dairies and mountain restaurants, as well as a good 300 “Bööchle” (benches) invite you to stop off, relax and enjoy. Eight gondolas and chairlifts make child’s play of the ascents, even with prams.

Whether it’s a summit experience, a sunrise tour or a stroll along the water, with a network of hiking trails stretching over 185 km - including Oberstdorf, this rises to over 400 km - in three climate zones and altitudes of 1,000m to 2,536 m, Kleinwalsertal has much to offer!

MOUNTAIN

We know what it means to be in the mountains.

Experience unique moments, inhale nature and come with us on a mountain adventure.

The team of the Kleinwalsertal mountain school will accompany you on some of the most impressive tours in the Alps.

Find your personal adventure at WWW.BERGSCHULE.AT

from € 122 ,-

Hiking without boundaries

Book the endless variety of the Walser mountain world - whether with Alpine roses in the spring, for a mountain summer or in the golden autumn - including your desired accommodation and a lift ticket for all gondolas and chairlifts in Kleinwalsertal and Oberstdorf.

Offer valid from 10 May to 4 November 2018, including: • Overnight stays in your holiday apartment, guest house or hotel of choice

• Lift ticket for all 8 gondolas and chairlifts in Kleinwalsertal and Oberstdorf

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

ADVENTURE

Walserstraße 262 Kleinwalsertal / 6992 Hirschegg Phone: +43 5517 30245

“Walser Omgang� vital routes & nature experience spots Come back to yourself, break out of the cage of your own thoughts, and return with renewed energy from your holidays. The eight vital Walser Omgang routes, and the Nature Experience spots in Kleinwalsertal offer something for the body and mind alike. th: Regenerating pa

d unwind ideal to relax an

Activating path:

ideal for stimulating your body

Balancing

path:

a mixture o f both, with activating and regene rating stretc hes

Book a Lebensfeuer health check, and find out which impulse is best suited to you through a heart rate variability (HRV) measurement and analysis. www.kleinwalsertal.com/lebensfeuer

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

23

“Oh come on, Dad – chill out!”, was her response yesterday when I got upset about something. At the time I didn’t really appreciate her point, and frankly her advice made me even grumpier.

In the evening when I was feeling calmer, I recalled her words and smiled ruefully to myself. I had to admit – she was right. How often we get upset over little things and make life harder for ourselves than it needs to be.

The next morning at breakfast, we talk at length about “chilling” and how important it is for young teens and old forty-somethings.

As the weather is so beautiful, I suggest a short hike. Emma isn’t up for it straight away.

“Let me check my phone, play iPad and chat with my friends for a bit, then we can go, Dad!” Oh, oh – I need to remind myself to “chill out” and not get upset. That’s kind of the point.

Just because I think it's perfect mountain weather, and there’s no better place to be than in the great outdoors, it doesn’t necessarily mean that everyone around me has to think the same. So I switch my “chill” mode on and head out into the garden. I find some tasks that are much more fun in bright sunshine than in bad weather, passing the time enjoy-

ing a good cappuccino from a deckchair. The day passes, and my daughter shows no signs of wanting to go on a hike today. Instead, we agree to go on a tour tomorrow. The next day, despite my misgivings, Emma is awake at half past seven and ready for a trip into the Walser mountains. I capitalise shamelessly on this,

and we head off straight after breakfast.

I want to take her to Wildental. When you live in Kleinwalsertal, you think that you know every last nook and cranny. I used to go to Wildental a lot, mostly by bike. Not during the last few years, however, so I’m looking forward to rediscovering the valley. We set out

CHILL OUT! Over the last few years, some of you will have read about my daughter and me – around six years ago, I started to write stories about experiences I shared with my daughter. In those six years, a lot has happened. The little girl just starting primary school has turned into a young lady. During the week, school is now more demanding, and the weekends are often important for recharging batteries and simply “chilling out”.

from the parking area next to the former Restaurant Schwendle, past the renovated Bergheim Moser, through the forest at the foot of the Zwölfer, and begin the climb up towards Untere and Innere Wiesalpe. It’s still early so we don’t see many other hikers.

Eduard’s goats, however, give us a warm welcome when we reach the Untere Wiesalpe.

Just before the alp, we emerge from the forest and the lush green pastures instantly catch our eye. No wonder the goats are so cheerful.

The rich green grass, mixed with the finest mountain herbs, no doubt tastes sensational, and there seems to be plenty of it. We continue on towards Fluchtalpe. By the time we are walking uphill alongside the stream, it becomes obvious how the valley got its name.

The nature here is just so indescribably beautiful and wild. Even my daughter is enjoying the almost unreal looking colours and untouched nature. Just below Fluchtalpe, we take the narrow path towards the waterfall. We continue on across the meadows, over the stream, and through the pines. The trail snakes slowly higher. The sound of rushing water grows louder, and soon we are standing in front of the mighty waterfall as it spews water down into the valley from on high. Unfortuna-

tely, the sun's rays have not arrived with us, so it’s not a place to linger unless we want to “chill” in the most literal sense of the word. A cool, wet mist of water is blowing towards us, so we continue along the path towards Hintere Wildenalpe.

We ascend about another 400 metres. With each step the views of the valley get better, and our hearts beat a little faster. After a few minutes of steep climbing, we reach the Alphütte and finally enjoy the warming rays of the sun, which have managed to make their way up this far. Emma looks around in all directions and I ask her what she’s looking for.

She replies that just below the rim of the hill the sound of the waterfall was still really loud, yet suddenly up here she can’t hear a thing.

She's right, it must be round here somewhere. We start searching for the stream.

We follow the path north-east and behind a small hill we find it. Not the raging torrent that we expected, but a small, “chilled” ribbon winding its way gently and quietly along a hollow in the direction of the “Wilde Tobel”.

We sit down on the grass and enjoy the tranquillity of this wonderful place. We tuck into our snacks, which are especially delicious with a healthy climb under our belts. This is

my kind of “chilling”. I look over at my daughter, and she also seems to be enjoying it immensely.

Taking our time, we follow the narrow path towards Vordere Wildalpe. The trail passes through some steep rocky sections, though thanks to the fixed ropes they are dealt with easily enough. After the hut we come to the path that leads towards the Fiderepasshütte.

It is a popular route, and we meet some fellow hikers on our way down. I have the feeling that they are a little jealous of us because we have already conquered the climb and are marching briskly back down into the valley.

However the serpentine path soon begins to test our thigh muscles. Emma’s lack of enthusiasm is written all over her face. We are happy to reach the Fluchtalpe, where we make a pit stop to refuel with freshly baked cakes. The fresh Käskuchen smells glorious.

It’s even still a little bit warm. After the arduous descent, it conjures a smile back onto my daughter’s face, and now it’s my turn to say: “Oh come on, Emma, chill out!”

■ Text & images: Elmar Müller

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

25

Hiking with children

QUIZ: Find the Haspelwaldmändle

This is the exciting search for the Wild Man of Haspel Wood, or the Haspelwaldmändle as he’s known locally. He lives in the Haspelwald just below the Walmendingerhorn. On the way, you will pass six stations with signs. If you read them carefully, solving the quiz at the end of the trail will be child’s play. When they reach the Bühlalpe, hard-working hikers are welcomed with the quiz and a little surprise.

The route starts at the Moosparkplatz in Mittelberg, just beyond the Walmendingerhorn gondola. The path leads hikers along the Stützeweg to the first station. It continues through Erlenboden into the Haspelwald, before finally reaching the Bühlalpe mountain inn.

The quiz and the hike are suitable for children aged 4 and up. Please note that the trail passes through Alpine terrain and is not suitable for pushchairs.

The quiz can be solved during the Bühlalpe opening times only. The Bühlalpe is closed on Wednesdays, but apart from this the mountain inn is open from June to October. The hike takes about 60 minutes.

Burmi’s adventure holidays

Genuine, exciting mountain experiences for children and families during the school holidays from 21 May to 3 June, 2 July to 9 September, and 1 October to 4 November 2018.

Here, everything revolves around discovering the unique Walser mountains and spending time with the family - supervised by professional mountain guides and wilderness educators.

MON Climbing adventure on the rocks A cool experience for Alpine dwarfs! Climbing and abseiling on the rock wall in the natural climbing garden - supervised and led by professional mountain guides from the Bergschule. Thrills guaranteed!

MON Rope safety: Via ferrata taster course This is about proper safety equipment and the correct behaviour in the mountains. The best preparation for the via ferrata.

TUE Big mountain adventures for families A day filled with adventures: climbing in the climbing garden, crossing the river on a rope bridge, flying foxes and abseiling from dizzying height of up to 40 metres. An experience you won’t forget in a hurry!

TUE The herb goblins Can you eat nettles? Are daisies medicine? Spend an exciting afternoon in the wonderful world of herbs with trained herbal expert Susanne. Learn which plants are edible, which herbs grow on the verges of the path, and help to prepare herbal salts, oils, balms, etc.

WED Creative nature workshop Nature provides us with the materials for a creative afternoon. We go out and gather natural materials for carving, felting, and building arches or mini houses for dwarfs.

WED Trip to the dairy How does milk get to the bottle, how do you put the holes in the cheese? Learn more about the Alpine way of life on our journey to Bärgunttal. And with our dairy quiz, you can test your new knowledge straight away.

THU Flying foxes The children “fly” at high speed on rollers over a tightrope through the Schwarzwasserbach canyon.

It might sound dangerous, but the presence of professionals and the use of climbing harnesses ensures that this exciting adventure is risk-free.

THU Bike Trails 4 Youngsters The bike course lasts all morning.

Experienced guides give away their tricks, such as jumps, wheelies and much more. In addition, kids can improve their riding technique and overall control! Mountain bikes available for hire.

THU & FRI Wilderness days Play and explore in nature! We make a selection from the treasure trove of opportunities offered by Mother Nature. For example, kids build shelters, light campfires without using lighters or matches, make tools and practice tracking. Getting on their camouflage gear and practising their stalking is a particular hit with the kids. But beware, it gets dirty! Don’t forget swimming things and a towel. In July and August, there are special family wilderness days.

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

27

6

7

2

1

5

In addition to the weekly programme, we invite you and your children to discover Kleinwalsertal - because in Burmi’s Adventure Land, there is plenty to discover!

BURMIS TIPPS 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

7

Burmi Path Just a few minutes’ walk from Hirschegg or Riezlern, children (and often Mum and Dad too) have a blast with the mini rope garden, the Burmi target throwing, the Burmi cave and other brand-new natural play stations.

Burmi Water This adventure trail follows the cool waters from the Kanzelwand mountain station to the popular Riezler Alpsee. Perfect for small mermaids and water sprites. Children can experiment with water to their heart’s content at different water stations with pools, water wheels and locks.

Söllereck toboggan The summer toboggan route runs 850m down a curvy path with built-in jumps and moguls.

The 2-seater toboggans can reach speeds of up to 40km/hr. But built-in brakes means that everyone can choose their own speed.

Söllereck climbing forest From a fun children’s circuit to a sporty route for adults - there’s something to challenge everyone here. Everyone gets their own safety equipment, and can choose their own activities.

Riezlern skate park for inline skaters & skateboarders. Plenty of obstacles provide the perfect set-up to try out some new tricks on your skateboard or inline skates.

Mittelberg football pitch Enjoy a proper kick-around and let off some steam.

Horse riding Horse trainer Jeanette Feurstein offers guided rides, even for beginners. There are also pony rides at the Erlebehof in Riezlern. They also have a small animal barn with Walliser blacknose sheep, rabbits, cats, ponies and pot-bellied pigs Rosalie and Rudi.

Even more leisure time fun...

Mini golf, playgrounds, Pit Pat, plenty of streams for splashing, and lots more.

3 4

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

29

MY FIRST ALPABTRIEB – CHEATING ALLOWED...

It is a special experience to see an Alpabtrieb, (the name given to the cattle drive down into the valley at the end of summer), and to pay tribute to the herdsmen and their animals along the way. But if as a tourist you have the opportunity, as I did, to actively accompany the cattle on their way down the mountain, then it will become a truly unforgettable experience that you will remember for a long time. And with a grin on your face.

I’m going to be honest and tell you what an Alpabtrieb is really like... Also, I am not to run in amongst the herd, and that if something happens to me, then on my own head be it...

Wolfgang Ott, head herdsman on the Bärguntalpe, does not mince his words. After all, tomorrow he is responsible for bringing more than 200 cattle down to Riezlern and returning them to their owners in one piece. And that is not a responsibility to be taken lightly.

He is noticeably tense. For three months, the cattle have been under his care. He knows

their names and their idiosyncrasies. Wolfgang is a born herdsman. “You have to have it in your blood. It’s not something you can learn”, the 50-year-old explains to me. His grandfather was a herdsman, and his sons Simon and Elias are also following in his footsteps. They have both spent the summer with the animals, together with Wolfgang himself, Marion, and young herdsmen Titus and Magnus. From the Bärguntalpe at an altitude of 1400 metres, the cattle are herded up in stages via several pastures to the Hoch-

alpe at over 2000 metres. Like many of the young cattle which are already in their third year under Wolfgang’s care, 12-year-old Titus and 13-year-old Magnus are in their fifth and fourth summers on the mountain respectively. They take care of the herd, erect and repair fences, and above all, ensure that no cattle are injured. This summer, they have had to report three losses. One cow broke its foot, another suffered a heart attack, and the third died of a broken neck. If something happens to one of the herd, for the Alpabtrieb

„When asked what he’s going to do after September 19th: “Maybe shave off my beard, because on the mountain you can’t shave all summer – it’s tradition!”

Wolfgang Ott,

head herdsman, Alpe Bärgunt

the cattle are adorned with bells only; the traditional flowers and wreaths are not worn.

The cattle sense when they are going home Wolfgang has been taking care of the cattle on the Bärguntalpe for 28 years. His sister Sabine is the owner of the oldest farmed alp in Kleinwalsertal. Today, the terrace is filled with guests who want to watch the bells being put on the cattle. The guests also re-

ceive from Sabine some explanations about the Alpabtrieb, which in some villages these days is more of a folk festival and merely staged for the guests. But not in Kleinwalsertal – here it is still traditional, as the seasoned hostess explains to the interested guests. Meanwhile, in a staked-off pasture above the terrace, more and more cattle are gathering. Since mid-June, around 240 cattle from the Allgäu, Vorarlberg and Kleinwalsertal have made sure that the cultivated landscapes are preserved. Without KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

31

these “holidaymakers”, the pastures would quickly become forested, and the meadows would disappear. Just as the cattle look forward to climbing up to the lush meadows and mountain herbs in the summer, they are now growing impatient to return to their stalls in the village. They can sense that they are going home.

Meanwhile Wolfgang has gathered his team of 40 helpers, which consists of friends, neighbours, and farmers from the Allgäu. They help to replace the pasture bells with the ceremonial bells. The cows are driven into a lock; they are nervous. After weeks on the meadows, they aren’t used to narrow spaces. Now, teamwork and strength are needed: I work with Markus, a humorous helping hand from the Allgäu. He is very patient with me. While he removes the straps of the pasture bells, which have become hard after a summer exposed to the wind and rain, I fetch the highly polished clamp bells from the trailer and pass them to him. Wolfgang is supervising which bell goes on which cow. When he shakes his head, the bell ends up back on the trailer. The ceremonial bells are worth several hundred euros, and belong to the farmers and herders.

Not every cow is decorated with one of these heavy pieces. Markus shows me how to put the bell around the cow’s neck without squashing my hand, if the animal in question is a bit stubborn. I gradually get the hang of it. After nearly two hours, all the bells are on. It is now pouring with rain and I'm soaked through, pretty tired, but also satisfied: I've passed the first test. Wolfgang also looks a little more relaxed. It’s hard to say if I’m the reason.

About the Alpabtrieb:

Every September 19th, 600 cattle from four high Alpine pastures are driven back down to Riezlern. In some villages the Alpabtrieb is more of a folk festival and is merely staged for the guests, but in Kleinwalsertal, it is still celebrated in the traditional manner with a small programme of events for locals and visitors, and the sale of local products.

Tradition: The last night is party night During the course of the evening, more and more helpers find their way to the main room of the hut. It is a tradition that on the last evening before the cattle drive, everyone celebrates together and bids farewell to the Alpine summer. The sleeping area under the roof of the Bärgunthütte looks well occupied. The idea of taking a room in Baad pops into my head, however, it is quickly dismissed. That wouldn’t be right. Instead, I hunt out a bench in the lounge. Just looking at it seems to hint at a sleepless night ahead. Meanwhile Martin, the heart and soul of the Bärguntalpe, has made a huge pot of goulash soup. We sit at the table, eating, drinking and playing cards. Stories are told, and jokes are made about one or the other in broad dialect. This includes me.

Everyone is excited about tomorrow, especially Titus and Magnus. Nick from Oberstaufen finds that working at the cattle drives helps him to compensate for his stressful medical studies. For the most part, it is young men and women who pitch in and help with the Alpabtriebs in and around Kleinwalsertal, and who

clearly enjoy this experience as part of the community.

Snow, bad weather and goosebumps After a short night’s sleep, I am glad when morning finally breaks. Just 100 metres above the Bärgunthütte, it has snowed overnight. It is cold and rainy. The men in their leather shorts and white shirts don’t seem too worried. Most know what to expect: a 10 kilometre route through the valley – partly at a run – down to the Scheidplatz in Riezlern will soon warm you up. Sabine gives us, especially me, some final instructions. Run behind the cattle, right at the end, not in the middle, or I might get run over. No problem. These cows can weigh up to 450 kg, so I am perfectly happy not to end up underneath one. Nervously, we wait in front of the gate with our long herders’ sticks. The ringing of bells becomes a staccato. And then they appear: more than 200 cows trotting past me, with Wolfgang, Marion, Simon and young herders Titus and Magnus

leading them. The other helpers and farmers spread out amongst the herd, so that they can set the pace and intervene quickly if a cow bucks or breaks from the herd. The herd steams as the heat evaporates from the cattle, transmitting a powerful dynamic. I prefer not to imagine what might happen if they got out of control.

Cheating because of a lame cow I stick close to Lea, a young girl from Bavaria.

She is driving the last cow, which would apparently prefer to stay on the alp. Lame cow, I think, and wonder if we will ever reach the Scheidplatz at this rate. After 20 minutes, Lea gives me the OK to catch up with the herd. It has long been out of sight, however. Running, I try to catch up, but I can see no sign of the cows. The residents are already removing their temporary cordons. One even gives me a quick schnapps – providing for the herders on the way down is also part of the tradition.

In Mittelberg, one of the locals tells me that

the herd passed through 15 minutes ago.

When he sees my disappointed face, he makes a spur-of-the-moment decision to drive me, firstly to the back of the herd, then he takes a short cut through the village and drops me off right in the middle of “my” herd!

Perfect timing – thanks, Joseph! As I merge back into the crowd unnoticed, a couple of cows are breaking away from the herd just to my left. Finally, some action! For the first time, I have to use my stick on the rump of a cow to make sure that the herd doesn’t head too far in the direction of the onlookers. Over the last few kilometres it has become clear to me how much effort the others have already put in. An Alpabtrieb is hard work and requires a lot of stamina. It looks idyllic to the onlookers, but in fact requires intense concentration. And even when we arrive at the Scheidplatz, the work is far from over.

Then the cattle are separated, the ceremonial bells removed, and the owners called to load their cattle onto the waiting trucks. It needs

to happen quickly, because the cattle from the next alp are already on their way.

The beard is on borrowed time Only once the last cow is loaded does Wolfgang breathe a sigh of relief. When asked what he’s going to do after September 19th: “Maybe shave off my beard, because on the mountain you can’t shave all summer – it’s tradition!” Finally he can celebrate with his helpers that he has returned his charges in good health. I am sure that he is already looking forward to next summer. Perhaps I might also be allowed to take part again – who knows? Not quite at the end of the herd this time, and perhaps with a room booked in Baad. Then I would be more rested the next day and perhaps a little faster... No-one wants to be the lame cow. will ja keine lahme Kuh sein.

■ Text: Doris Schober Images: Frank Drechsel

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

33

ALPHORNDAYS 2018 from 5 to 9 September

“Experience the alphorn in its “natural habitat” from 5 to 9 September in Kleinwalsertal!”

From 5 to 9 September 2018 in Kleinwalsertal, it’s all about the alphorn. For this year’s Alphorn Days, the focus is on the soothing sounds of this pastoral instrument. Groups from Switzerland, Austria, Germany and beyond have been invited to attend. This year, the organisers want to make sure that the alphorn takes centre stage – quality, not quantity, so to speak! This will mean fewer groups, but a higher quality of musical contributions. Die-hard fans of the alphorn sound will really get their money’s worth: alphorn hikes provide the opportunity of closer contact with the instruments and musicians.

Despite many changes, some of the programme has remained unaltered: the usual

serenade will take place on Saturday, 8 September under the motto “The Alphorn and Traditional Dress”. As in previous years, the highlight is the big Alphorn Festival on Sunday, 9 September, on the outdoor stage in Baad. The alphorns make the main contribution here, culminating in the final concert in which all the alphorns play together. Director of the entire festival is Hermann Haller, founder of the Alphorn Festival.

■ Text: Katrin Berchtold Images: Frank Drechsel

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

35

GENUSSREGION KLEINWALSERTALER GAME & BEEF

Regional products and specialities

Head to Kleinwalsertal’s farm shops and dairies for high-quality beef and venison, as well as a variety of cheeses, butter, yoghurt and fresh milk.

DAIRIES

in Bärgunttal • Bärgunthütte GenussHütte

on Walmendingerhorn • Obere Lüchlealpe • Alpsennerei Stutzalp

in Gemsteltal • Bernhard's Gemstelalpe • Gemstel-Schönesboden GenussHütte

in Wildental • Innere Wiesalpe • Untere Wiesalpe

in Schwarzwassertal • Alpe Melköde GenussHütte • Alpe Auen Ifen

on the Oberwestegg • Mittelalp GenussHütte

FARM SHOPS

• Abler Spezialitätenverkauf Stall in Mittelberg

• Biohof Feurstein in Mittelberg-Höfle

• Hoflaada in Mittelberg-Stütze

• Käsestadl in Hirschegg

• Räucherkammer in Riezlern

• s’Hirscheck in Hirschegg

• Walser Buura stall in Café Baad Grund in Baad

• Walser weekly market in Hirschegg • Letzebuurhof in Riezlern-Zwerwald

• Berchtold’s Bura Lädele in Riezlern

• Xond in Riezlern

• Dies & Das and iKuh - nice ideas in Hirschegg-Dürenboden

• Waldhaus in Riezlern

• and directly from many farms or in Onlineshop: www.einfachgut.at

The art of living and healthy diversity in Kleinwalsertal

“Genuss” begins with the ingredients. To create it, Kleinwalsertal relies on regionality, seasonality and close collaboration with farmers, hunters, producers and restaurateurs. In addition to regional specialities and products from the Walser Buura (farmers), the GenussRegion Kleinwalsertal focuses on two principal products: Kleinwalsertal game and beef.

Some of the mountain pastures reach far above the tree line and, due to the harsh climate, contain nutrient-rich grasses and healthy herbs. The animals are given a special feed which, in conjunction with their own natural movement, has a positive effect on the quality of the meat and also leads to a high proportion of valuable unsaturated omega-3 fatty acids. Quality that you can taste.

Ramble through the “Genuss” Region

On the trail of regional products

Delicious cheeses and delicate meats are regional specialities from Kleinwalsertal.

But what, and more importantly who, is behind them? Award-winning chef Herbert Edlinger takes you behind the scenes and shows you where the products originate all the way from meadow to plate. Enjoy a “Genuss” picnic along the way, before one of the Walser “Genuss” hosts provides more details from the coal face. And don’t miss out on a greeting from the “Genuss” kitchen!

Every Thursday at 9.30 am, approx. 4 hours € 25,– incl. snack and greeting from the “Genuss” kitchen Suitable for children aged 8 and over when accompanied by an adult (children under 14 free).

From 14 May to 4 November, 2018

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

37

CLUB JOLLY IN THE CASINO KLEINWALSERTAL Alternating DJs, cool drinks and great entertainment

The former dance bar has been lovingly renovated to give it a whole new look. After its makeover, Club Jolly opened its doors to the public back in December 2016. In June 2017, the former 3-bar layout was restructured. The bar counter was removed, and an area for various games was created, including a Party Blackjack table and five slot machines.

fancy a cosier night, then check out one of the lounge’s many seating corners. Cool drinks are served at the Club Jolly bar. In addition, the Fun Area in the lounge offers plenty of space to enjoy a good conversation with friends. Guests can also look forward to alternating prize draws. The Club Jolly and the Fun Area are open every Saturday from 11 p.m.

The large dancefloor invites guests to dance to the wide range of music on offer. If you

Guests are asked to respect the club’s door policy by dressing in casual yet elegant style.

In accordance with the visiting and gaming regulations of Casinos Austria AG, entry to the casino is permitted from the age of 18. An official photo ID (identity card, passport, driving licence) is required.

KLEINWALSERTAL SAYS THANK YOU! At this point, we would like to honour our regular guests, who have been coming to Kleinwalsertal for years, and who have taken the mountains and the local people to their hearts.

Premium honours in summer 2018

Brigitte un mit Gastgebe d Gustav Latz rin Elisabeth Ruffer

r Reuther Gerda und PeteHeinz Willam d mit Christine un

Kai Ruthmann mit Ule Haak von Kleinwalsertal

Tourismus

The official guest awards ceremony takes place every Wednesday in the Walserhaus in Hirschegg. Special guests are warmly invited to attend with their hosts.

All guest awards can be found on www.kleinwalsertal.com under News & Services …

Nienhaus Annegret Diem Margarete Ritter Robert Beck Rudolf & Renate Haid Ludolf & Johanna Latz Gustav & Brigitte Kraus Lydia Reuther Peter & Gerda Simon Werner Bullach Josefine Ruthmann Kai Rosiwal Ernst & Dorothea Diekmann Lisa Piepert Marlies Sommerer Max & Gertraud Buderath Erich Schmidt Klaus-Peter Williger Günter Versen Johanna Schnitzler Hedwig Schwarz Lothar & Christine Reitz Anita & Wolfgang Michels Paul Dieter & Elisabeth Rosenthal Ralf Maas Siegfried & Reinlinde Schwarzlose Matthias Hempel Nadine Wetzel Helmut & Ingrid Naskowiak Robert & Ursula Körner Peter & Uschi Thilmann Klothilde Wruck Wolfgang & Brigitta Schwarzlose Anne-Dore

Borken CH Gähwil Herxheim Jungholzhausen Kirchdorf Essen Hemsbach Eltville Wuppertal Köln Neukirchen-Vluyn Mannheim Holzminden Holzminden Hof Bad Merfel Arloff Nürnberg Berlin Nürnberg Kerpen Duisburg Witten Vettweiss Bonn Moers Rathenow Kaiserslautern Darmstadt Barsinghausen Bergisch Gladbach Stutensee Helmstedet Rathenow

Number of stays

160 90 90 80 80 75 75 70 70 65 63 62 55 55 50 50 50 50 50 50 45 40 40 40 37 35 33 32 32 31 30 30 30

. . . we look forward to seeing you again!

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

39

KLEINWALSERTAL WINTER WORLD! The altitude of the villages (1,086 to 1,244m) and its favourable north-west orientation on the northern edge of the Alps make the Kleinwalsertal a real “snow hole”.

On average, more than 9 metres of snow fall every winter in this, the 3rd wettest region in the Alps.

Winter Experiences On Top!

Enjoy special experiences in the Walser mountains, such as a snowshoe tour through the snow dunes of the Gottesacker plateau, visit the lonely wilderness of the Schwarzwassertal or participate in our warm-up Part for returning skiers ...

Led by professionals!

Learn to ski and/or snowboard, improve your technique or explore the backcountry with Kleinwalsertal’s ski instructors - professionally accompaniment, individual treatment.

ation e Inform r o m d ay in Fin er holid t in w r ou d about y ertal an ls a w in Kle t offers a further al.com

walsert n i e l k . www ebshop the W and in

Top ski packages: Advent ski weeks, dream ski weeks, sunshine ski weeks

Take advantage of our discounted weeks and book your skiing holiday directly at www.kleinwalsertal.com, complete with your chosen accommodation and a ski pass for the cross-border skiing area.

Boundless skiing enjoyment

on 47 lifts, gondolas and 130km of pistes! Nestled in the ski mountains of Kanzelwand-Fellhorn, Ifen, Walmendingerhorn and Heuberg, the Kleinwalsertal ski area extends over the whole valley. Other ski resorts connected to Oberstdorf-Kleinwalsertal include Söllereck and Nebelhorn. Snow parks, night skiing and a fantastic freeride area complete the offer.

In the rhythm of cross-country skiing

Anyone who indulges in this Nordic sport and wishing to do something to benefit their health is well served by our three trails stretching out over almost 50 km.

Our trails are divided into HRV measurement impulses - Regeneration, Activation & Balance.

Winter hiking nature experience

The valley’s high trails, such as those leading to the Schwarzwasserhütte (1,620 m), Söllereck (1,358 m), and especially the circuit of the Gottesacker at 2,000 m, offer incomparable winter experiences. In Kleinwalsertal, a network of over 50 km of groomed trails, at altitude and in the valley, is at your disposal.

Backcountry & snow parks

Freeriding, snowshoe tours, skiing - be on the safe side and go touring with a guide. They know the territory well, have experience and are well-trained.

The Crystal Ground Snowpark Kleinwalsertal is a magnet for snowboarders and freeskiers alike, with the Kids Playground Fun Park and the Easy Park with Funslope providing further options.

Leisure time

Tobogganing, building snowmen, snow-biking, horse-riding, tandem paragliding, horse-drawn sleigh rides, dog sledding with huskies, ice sports centre, the AUDI Arena ski jumping stadium, the Heini Klopfer ski jump, the Söllereck toboggan run, and much more in and around Kleinwalsertal.

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE //

41

ARRIVING BY CAR Most routes lead to Ulm before carrying on along the A7. Take the Allgäu junction over a section of the A980 to the Waltenhofen junction, then take the 4-lane B19 via Sonthofen and Oberstdorf to Kleinwalsertal. A motorway vignette is not required to reach the valley.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN The nearest train station is 10 km away in Oberstdorf im Allgäu. From there, you can take a bus or a taxi. In high season, buses run from approximately 7.00 to 21.00. The trip to Kleinwalsertal takes approximately 25 minutes. Taxis wait at the station around the clock.

Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen A-6992 Hirschegg · Walserstraße 264 Telephone +43 (0)5517 5114-0 www.kleinwalsertal.com

ARRIVING BY PLANE Memmingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Friedrichshafen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Augsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Zürich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 München . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 Stuttgart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224

km km km km km km

AIRPORT TRANSFERS - Walser Taxi: Tel. +43 5517 5460 oder 5464

- Taxi Beranek: Tel. +43 676 955 5995

- Allgäu Walser Express from Friedrichshafen: www.allgaeu-walser-express.com

Das Kleinwalsertal finden Sie auch auf:

WALSERBUS - YOUR PLUS On holiday, why don’t you simply leave your car behind. The Walserbus will transport you quickly, conveniently and comfortably to your destination.

And the best part – with Vorteil mit your guest card, travel on Gästekarte the Walserbus is free throughout the valley. Even your ticket down to Oberstdorf (Germany) is discounted with your guest card.

Enjoy countless advantages: 1. Short waiting times (10 to 20 minutes).

2. No looking for spaces or parking fees 3. No stress 4. Less traffic 5. More peace and quiet, and a cleaner environment Please note that the frequency of buses is reduced in low season, and that routes 2 - 5 cover a limited route only.