OnTrak | Summer/Fall 2019

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adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route

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Step Into


Hot Events in the Summer

Centralia embraces its role as a crossroad for travelers. Its location halfway between Portland and Seattle, and its charming, historic downtown make it the perfect place for family and friends to meet.

Downtown’s Washington Park, named for its pioneer founder, hosts free concerts in the summer on select Saturdays and a celebration of Día de la Independencia on Sept 14th.

Highways and railroads converge here, making Centralia an easy destination by car or Amtrak. The historic Centralia Train Depot is located in the heart of downtown. Visitors hop off the train and are steps away from an amazing collection of vintage and modern shops, local art, delicious restaurants, pubs, coffee-shops and boutique hotels.

A July 4th parade downtown is part of an allday, citywide celebration, culminating in an old-fashioned destruction derby and fireworks. Classic car enthusiasts will enjoy the Billetproof cruise night each year in June and the Hub City Car Show (August 24).


Fall in Love

Fascinating history

As the weather cools off, Centralia heats up with Antique Fest (August 2-3), ARTrails (September 21-29), Country Chicks (October 4-5) and Girls’ Night Out (October 5).

If museums are your thing, Centralia has something for you. From the Bordello Museum's exploration of women’s history, to the King Agricultural Museum’s homage to the area’s rich farming heritage, to the George and Mary Jane Washington Museum’s story of the challenges and accomplishments of the son of a slave who founded this town, there's much to learn and enjoy in this historic town.

The Lighted Tractor Parade (December 14) is a family event that is sure to become a part of your holiday traditions. Ninety tractors and farm vehicles, each boasting more than a thousand lights, are a dazzling display as they wind their way through the historic downtown.

Visit downtowncentralia.org. Photos courtesy of local photographers Curt Bartkowski, Showcase Media; Tory Graf, Trillium Creative Solutions; TZ True, and Mandi McDougall Lifestyle Photography.



Take a Dog-cation Man’s best friend deserves a vacation, too. We’ve got picks for Portland, Seattle and Vancouver’s best dog-friendly spots. written by Cathy Carroll & Sheila G. Miller


Sleuthing Seattle’s Great Fire


The Offbeat Bonnet Vault Tucked away in a Victorian home in an unassuming Portland neighborhood lies the largest collection of historic hats in the United States. photography by Jason Quigley

Jason Quigley

Seattle wasn’t always the bastion of cool you know today. Before the Great Fire of 1889, the city was a timber town with a seedy underbelly. written by Sheila G. Miller 4

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Departments INTRO 8


Athlete pg. 30

11 Contributors

BUSINESS 14 Green Biz

Sam Ortega/Portland Timbers

Already pleasing customers with its beautiful, organic linens, Plover now sells garden kits to give your yard a pop of color.

16 Q&A

Rachel Belle’s podcast asks celebrities a defining question: what would your last meal be?


Frank Howarth, of Frank Makes YouTube fame, takes woodworking seriously, but not so seriously that he won’t make a wood version of the Death Star.

22 Music

Manatee Commune makes highenergy electronic music that doesn’t go gray just because of our dark skies.

24 Chef Spotlight

Erizo’s Jacob Harth takes the forgotten from the sea and makes it into an intricate twenty-course dinner in his small Portland restaurant.

26 Event Calendar

Plan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.


| 2019

Sebastián Blanco provides fiery play, and plenty of goals, to the Portland Timbers.

OUTDOORS 30 Athlete

The Portland Timbers’ Sebastian Blanco makes fiery play fun.

32 Notes from the Adventure Head to Vancouver Island for timber trails through the rainforests.

34 Seattle Suburbs

Go east, young man, away from the bustle of Seattle and into suburban delights— Woodinville, Kirkland and Bellevue have plenty of charm all their own.

38 Oregon Wine Country

EXPLORE GUIDE Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop

58 Oregon 61 Washington 64 Vancouver 68 Route Maps 71 Amtrak Cascades News & Notes 72 Parting Shot

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has turned into a downright legit wine country, with wineries old and new making it the perfect experience.

67 Exposure

Submit a photo for a chance to win our photo contest.



One of Portland’s greatest treasures, Lan Su Chinese Garden is a tranquil oasis in the heart of the city. It is your passport to pause, discover and experience the rich culture of China — all just steps away from your Amtrak train.

enter the wonderland with tea in the teahouse, cultural performances, art exhibitions, the fragrance of a rare plant or the stunning architecture of 16th century China. Lan Su Chinese Garden always has something new to offer — by the minute, by the hour and with the seasons.

A Note from Us ALL ABOARD! And by “all” we even mean dogs. In this issue, dogs are the winners. In Take a Dog-cation on page 42, we assess the best places—and great agendas—to take your pup on a getaway to Portland, Seattle or Vancouver, BC. Tin Shed Garden Cafe in Portland has a light dog menu. Voff Bark & Brew in Seattle is a sports bar with a “bark yard” for dogs. The Pan Pacific even kicks out a list of the dog-friendly locations close to the hotel. In a historical caper, enjoy reading about the true cause of the Great Seattle Fire of 1889. This piece delves the controversy with an expert from the Last Resort Fire Department, who has spent much of her professional and spare time on this subject. Turn to page 48 for this scintillating read. Anywhere from Portland to Eugene on the Amtrak Cascades, you are in Oregon wine country. Oregon is known for its complex pinot noirs, but wine growers and winemakers have done so much more in recent years. We offer you new inspiration to follow the tracks to the stops—Port-

land, Salem, Eugene—where you can easily access Willamette Valley wine country through regular shuttles. Until then, turn to page 38 for a quick itinerary of where to go and what to sip. If you’ve never been to the Space Needle in Seattle, built for the 1962 World’s Fair, or if it’s been a while, you can go check out the new glass floor. Best new photo-op in town. If heights aren’t your thing, you can visit the Chihuly Glass sculpture garden at the base of the Needle and take the kids to the Pacific Science Center for rotating exhibits and old favorites. Pike Place Market is always worth a visit and shopping abounds downtown. In the mood for a great cosmopolitan experience? Vancouver, BC, always boasts so many great things to see and do both indoors and out from museums to Vancouver Island and Granville Island, farmers markets, and some of the best restaurants ever! You can also enjoy a great concert or show while you are there. Thank you for choosing Amtrak Cascades. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

Laura Kingman Marketing Manager

Amtrak Cascades WSDOT Rail, Freight and Ports Division


| 2019


to the future of hotels. Arrive by foot, by car, by plane or by train on journeys from far and near. This luxurious Art Deco hotel is where those with the pioneering spirit gather to roam, feast, rest, and repeat. To tap into the magnetic culture, bask in the insane natural beauty, dine at restaurants that you will not-be-able-to-not Instagram, oh – watch a little team called THE SEAHAWKS. This deep connection with nature, culture and fellow like-minded people is only heightened by our spacious suites with super hi-tech amenities, like an Alexa in every room to cater to your every whim. So, come all pioneers. And truly connect to an experience unlike any other.

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Home grown doctors Students from Washington Training for Washington

ESFCOM OnTrak ad 8_375w x 10h April_May 2019.indd 1

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Mackenzie Wilson

Jacob Uitti

Jen Stevenson

Jason Quigley

You don’t have to be a diehard soccer fan to get swept up by the spirit of the Timbers Army. From coordinated chants and songs to a truly original way of marking goals scored, it’s easy to want to be a part of the Timbers official fan club. I got to talk with Sebastián Blanco, one of the Timbers players who inspires such devoted supporters.

Rachel Belle is one of the most avid restaurant hunters and ardent food samplers in the world, so I knew her podcast would be rich. She gets great guests for the show and as a fellow interviewer and food lover, I knew I had to track her down to ask her about her James Beardnominated podcast.

Growing up a few minutes from the famed Monterey Bay Aquarium, I was schooled in the importance of marine ecology and conservation from a very young age, so Erizo chef Jacob Harth’s ambitious mission and profound respect for the ocean and its edible treasures (both prized and otherwise) struck a chord. Not to mention, his food is delicious!

One of my favorite subjects to photograph is an interesting person in a quirky environment, so the National Hat Museum and its director, Lu Ann, were right up my alley. She was gracious, informative, patient, and had several elaborate wardrobe changes all lined up for the shoot. We spent half a day shooting, but it could have easily been longer given the wealth of material. I’d never heard of the place despite its long history in Portland.

Writer—Athlete (pg. 30)


Writer—Q&A (pg. 16)

Writer—Chef Spotlight (pg. 24)

Photographer—Gallery (pg. 54)

2019 |


adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route

Editor - Kevin Max Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller Creative - Allison Bye Web Manager - Aaron Opsahl Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath Advertising Account Executives Cindy Guthrie, Jenn Redd Contributing Writers - Cathy Carroll, Viki Eierdam, Juliet Grable, Ben Salmon, Jen Stevenson, Cara Strickland, Jacob Uitti, Mackenzie Wilson Contributing Photographers - Emily Joan Greene, Jason Quigley


www.facebook.com/AmtrakCascades @Amtrak_Cascades www.facebook.com/OnTrakMag @OnTrakMag PUBLISHED BY Statehood Media, LLC 70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702 541•728•2764 Printed in Canada All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.


| 2019


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Business 14. Green Biz | 16. Q&A

The Cutting Garden Collection includes seeds as well as plant care instructions.

Garden in a Box

A Washington linens company now offers flower seed kits WRITTEN BY CARA STRICKLAND

IN 2007, SISTERS-IN-LAW Marisa Mercer and Sheila Mulvihill began looking around for organic textiles with style for their growing families, but all they could find was white. Both avid collectors of vintage, the pair drew inspiration from their favorites, playing with color and scale to make them feel more modern. That idea became Plover, which specializes in organic cotton bedding, curtains and table wear with personality. Around the same time, Mercer and her husband moved into a house with a large yard. Though she hadn’t done much gardening before, it soon became her passion. She’s 14

| 2019

always reading books and magazines about gardening, and she regularly travels to the UK to glean horticultural secrets. Though Plover textiles were initially featured in stores across the country—you might recognize them from Anthropologie—last spring the duo decided to opt for a smaller business model, selling directly to consumers exclusively through the website. Mercer began to wonder how her love of gardening might fit in with Plover. “I would just give my friends seeds, bring plants over, or give them tubers,” Mercer said. These gifts formed the beginning of the idea for Plover’s new Cutting Garden Collection, which features a selection of seeds, tubers and step-by-step instructions, all wrapped in a Plover tea towel. Whether you’re a novice gardener or more experienced, it’s likely you find unfamiliar seeds in these kits. “I really love unusual seeds, things that you don’t see at the nursery,” Mercer said. “The idea was to get some unusual things in there so that in the garden people will be like, ‘I’ve nevwww.ontrakmag.com

“I really love unusual seeds, things that you don’t see at the nursery. The idea was to get some unusual things in there so that in the garden people will be like, ‘I’ve never seen that before. What is that?’ Really putting together plants that look great, almost like a painter’s palette.” — Marisa Mercer, co-owner of Plover Organic


Photos: Shelby Eaton

er seen that before. What is that?’ Really putting together plants that look great, almost like a painter’s palette.” To create the kits, Mercer started with color schemes. “I think that’s how most people buy flowers,” she said. “I’m the same way—I’m drawn to certain colors in the garden. I also love flower arranging—sometimes you’ll see a beautiful bouquet and you’ll see the way colors are combined and I like to try and re-create that in a planting scheme.” Beyond color, Mercer chose annuals that were easiest to grow and had the best “garden habits” (they didn’t completely take over, and they looked pretty even when they were dying) so that they would work with a variety of climates and skill levels. She’s confident these kits will thrive throughout the continental United States. Each kit is a limited run, and Mercer is planning to change it up for next year, choosing a new floral designer to curate a collection and mixing up the kits she’s designing herself. Keep your eyes open for fall kits, which will bloom in the spring, as well. For Mercer, one of the kits’ priorities is to make gardening fun and accessible for people at all stages. “You can give the kit as a gift. The instructions are really explicit. Everything is going to be blooming at the same time—different heights, different textures, all the colors will look great together,” she said. “It’s also great for experienced gardeners because a lot of these are seeds that you don’t see very often.” 2019 |



Your Last Supper KIRO Radio’s Rachel Belle talks death row, journalism and lobster INTERVIEW BY JACOB UITTI

Rachel Belle says that, among other things, a grilled cheese sandwich would be her last meal.

KIRO RADIO’S RACHEL BELLE loves food. A decade ago, the intrepid reporter stumbled upon a list of last meals requested by Texas inmates. She wondered—what would her own last meal be, and what if she turned this curiosity into a podcast series featuring celebrities such as Neil deGrasse Tyson, Guillermo Del Toro and Alicia Silverstone? Just like that, the podcast Your Last Meal with Rachel Belle was born. Ultimately, what interests you about food? I’ve been enthusiastic about food since I was a tiny girl, trying chicken feet for the first time at a dim sum parlor and wishing for pizza every time I’d throw a penny into a well. I love traveling to foreign countries, walking through outdoor markets and tasting new things.


and pick out all the meat. Their goal is to stave off their execution. Is there a guest you really hope to interview? Larry David and Sarah Silverman!

What specifically interests you about a last meal? Learning about a food that is sacred to a person opens up a window into their life. I learn about people’s families and childhoods, what comforts them, what brings them joy. And I dive into the origins of food, too. Did you know people in Salt Lake City eat more Jell-O than anyone else in the country?

You were nominated for a James Beard Award for the show. How did that feel? It was surreal. I’ve worked in news radio for more than fifteen years, but food has always been my passion. At the time, I had never won a journalism award, but a year and a half after starting the podcast I received a James Beard nomination. It was a strong reminder to keep following this path.

Any revelations from doing the series? Smart people choose lobster! A few of my guests with intellectual professions have wanted lobster for their last meal, and every single one of them has said it’s strategic—it takes so long to crack the shells

And your last meal? Crisp, briny oysters that I’d shuck myself on a Washington beach. A grilled cheese sandwich so melty it would put the Kraft Singles commercial to shame. Homemade tagliatelle with bolognese and lots of parmesan.

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The Smart Way to Travel


Avoid gridlock and traffic delays along the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Relax, sip Northwest wine, enjoy the scenery or use our free wi-fi while you cruise down the tracks. Amtrak Cascades offers daily service between Vancouver BC and Eugene, with convenient stops in Seattle, Portland and 14 other cities. Amtrak Cascades is the smart and fun way to travel.



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18. Artist | 22. Musician 24. Chef Spotlight | 26. Events

Accessible Art

Frank Makes features fun woodworking creations WRITTEN BY JULIET GRABLE

Frank Howarth works on a Christmas ornament in his Southwest Portland woodworking shop.

IN ONE OF Frank Makes’ most popular YouTube videos, a lawn chair seemingly assembles itself. Large slabs of Sequoia march across the lawn and file into the shop. A skill saw rips a board, sans operator. Wood chips pile up on the floor next to the drill press. Near the end, the pieces of the chair leap into position, and the wood clamps, having done their job, clamber down from the newly assembled chair and scamper across the floor. Both the film and the chair are the creations of Frank Howarth, a soft-spoken mad genius who lives in southwest Portland with his wife, Bonnie, and kids Claire and Calvin. His popular YouTube channel, Frank Makes, has more than 500,000 subscribers. Howarth’s films document woodworking projects ranging from the practical to the whimsical. Some are items from 18

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the honey-do list—bookcases, kitchen drawer organizers— others, such as a turned bowl he made for a wedding gift, are works of art. Howarth often uses a lathe to shape blocks into rounded objects—spindles, bowls and Christmas ornaments, but also an eerily realistic eyeball and a model of the Death Star—two of many projects that fall into the category of Just Because. Howarth’s films are as well designed as the things he makes, and the combination of low-key narration and masterful editing sets Frank Makes apart from the dozens of other YouTube woodworking channels. And although Howarth often tells viewers what he’s doing while he’s doing it, his films are not “how-to” videos. “I want to make things that you couldn’t or wouldn’t make, but not present them in an arrogant www.ontrakmag.com

Organized by the Vancouver Art Gallery and curated by Daina Augaitis, Chief Curator Emerita Generously supported by:

Additional support from:

Jane Irwin and Ross Hill

The Adelaar Family

Phil Lind Vikky Alexander, Between Dreaming and Living #8, 1986, inkjet print, Plexiglas, Courtesy of the Artist and Downs & Ross, New York

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FROM LEFT Howarth’s eyeball project. Lawn chairs made from Sequoia. BELOW A turned bowl Howarth made as a wedding gift.

way,” he said. He considers the videos stories, with the featured project a character. Howarth tries to post a new video every week or two. About half of his time goes to the creation of the object, the rest to the production of the videos. The lawn chair video, which runs just under ten minutes, has an almost breathtaking momentum, but the stop motion animation required pausing every few seconds to take a photo and move objects, plus hours of editing and stitching together thousands of images. (Fans interested in the filmmaking process can watch a very meta video on the making of the video of the making of the lawn chair.) “A bunch of things came together around 2011 and 2012,” said Howarth, who recently turned 50. “I asked myself, why am I only doing this on Saturdays?” Bonnie agreed and became the family breadwinner. She also screens the videos and provides a layperson’s feedback. Most of his projects are one-offs, and Howarth’s YouTube income comes from ads placed in front of his videos. “I’ve built this marketing platform,” he said. “I just need to figure out what to market.” Newcomers to Frank Makes won’t find a reverent monk paying homage to anachronistic woodworking techniques. The shop is populated with Powermatic machines acquired from auctions and Craigslist postings, but he also has a state-of-the art PRO4896 CNC machine, essentially a robot that uses computer software to direct the milling of precise shapes. “When I got the CNC machine, some people thought, that’s it,” Howarth said. “But we were just getting started.” 20

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He built a custom hinged table that allows him to push the capabilities of the machine and make unconventional cuts; for instance, drilling the hole out of the Death Star so it could receive its iconic laser-focusing disc. In a recent video, Howarth embarked on that most prosaic of woodworking projects, with a twist: a pizza cutting board that resembles an actual pizza. He used triangles of Yellowheart for the cheese, a ring of cherry for the crust, and coins of CNC-milled Padauk for the pepperoni. He also garnished the video with bits of humor, feeding the “pizza” into his planer with a long-handled pizza peel and shaving the wood with a cheese grater. And proof you don’t need to be a woodworking geek to be a fan of Frank Makes—Howarth plans to fabricate a pair of Bigfoot sandals so he can make oversized footprints on the beach with his kids. MORE ONLINE

To see Frank Makes projects in action, go to www.bit.ly/1M1FaLp




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Grant Eadie puts the human back into electronic music WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON

Allen Daniel

Manatee Commune

Album Review As electronic dance music has surged in popularity over the past decade, the actual sound of the genre has been steadily drained of its feeling, its color and its life. What’s left, generally speaking, are a bunch of bloodless battering-ram anthems that feel focus-grouped by corporations, not composed by humans. That’s why PDA, the new album from Manatee Commune, feels like such a breath of fresh air. Built from varied rhythms, warm synths and breathy voices, the songs on PDA whoosh and glow and bubble and sigh. The end result is an album that feels like a living, breathing organism on display inside a well-lit terrarium. PDA is an excellent example of that increasingly rare specimen—EDM with heart and soul. Kudos to Grant Eadie, the guy behind Manatee Commune, for injecting both into his music.

Train Tracks

| All available on Spotify

“Famous” featuring Cassandra Violet from PDA

Don’t be surprised if you’re soon hearing this song in half of the TV commercials and film trailers you see. It’s a clear highlight of Eadie’s new album that blends a humid, unhurried beat with a distinctly modern mix of ambition and ennui.

“Lovely” from Brush

Here’s Eadie in maximum chill mode, sprinkling a simple guitar line and some pulsing synths with the sound of birds chirping and other field recordings of the natural world. It’s a trip—in more ways than one.

“My Dearest Friend” from PDA

You know that special moment when you’re walking through the woods and sunlight is streaming through the treetops and scattered across the ground and everything is perfect? That’s this song.

“What We’ve Got” featuring Flint Eastwood from Manatee Commune

On this standout from his 2016 self-titled album, Eadie nimbly walks the blurry line between smeared electronic music and futuristic slow jam with a little help from mumble-crooning avant-pop act Flint Eastwood.

“Famous” featuring Cassandra Violet from Thistle

On this early Manatee Commune nugget, you can hear Eadie’s classical training in the lush arrangement at the beginning of the track, which, after a minute or so, gives way to a shower of skittish, variegated synth tones.


| 2019

FOR YEARS, THE book on music from the Pacific Northwest has been that it tends toward the downcast because of the weather. Our steady rains, slate-gray skies and sustained winters drive musicians into their basements to turn their melancholy into sound. That’s the theory, anyway. Grant Eadie is here to turn that Scan to listen theory on its head. The 26-yearon Spotify old producer—who works under the name Manatee Commune— is a product of the Northwest through and through. He grew up in Spokane, went to college in Bellingham, spent time in Seattle and now lives in Portland. But his electronic pop music is anything but a bummer. “A lot of my childhood was spent busting out into the woods, hanging out with my friends, being out on the water and in nature,” he said. “I’m not sure I’d be a musician if I didn’t live here, because the winter months are so hard that I always coped by making really happy music that reflected how I felt in the spring and summer.” The newest Manatee Commune album is his sunniest yet. It’s called PDA, and it’s a relentlessly catchy collection of electro-pop songs that course with warmth and humanity. Eadie is a classically trained viola player, which comes out in his lush string arrangements. His love of nature echoes in the field recordings he incorporates into his tunes. And his use of synths is always vibrantly colorful and slightly psychedelic. Eadie grew up with music-loving parents, listening to not only electronica giants like Moby, Daft Punk and Four Tet, but also the folksy, poppy music of artists such as Coldplay, Paul Simon and The Shins. “I don’t think my dad or my mom realize how much they had an effect on me just by introducing me to a handful of records as a kid,” he said. “It’s like this melting pot when you have a child with such a spongy brain. It’s like, ‘Try all these albums’ and out pops this person who has an interesting take on music.” On PDA, Eadie was determined to pour all of that person into what he calls his most personal work yet. “It’s a recording of my daily life that has been turned into songs. It’s a reflection of myself, which is a good thing and a bad thing because it’s so personal,” he said. “So I’m terrified for people to listen to it, but I’m also really excited for people to listen to it.” www.ontrakmag.com



It’s a rugged-certified mountain bike … that folds in half in under a minute for storage and transport. It’s adventure that goes places, a house-trained bike that can live in a condo, and a great reason to stop carrying your precious bike on the outside of your car! It’s the CHANGE bike from Flatbike. See it in action at www.flatbike.com/adventure 31 reviews | TrustScore 9.4/10

Chef Spotlight

Seaweed Whisperer Jacob Harth’s new eatery will help you learn to love oft-overlooked creatures WRITTEN BY JEN STEVENSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILY JOAN GREENE (@FOODIESNITCH)

Jacob Harth spends his days off at the coast, harvesting seaweed and other food for the restaurant.


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GROWING UP ON his family farm in Southern Oregon’s bucolic Applegate Valley, 27-year-old chef Jacob Harth learned not only how to farm, forage and fish from his logger grandfather and fisherman father, he also developed an innate sense of responsibility to the land and waters that fed his family. Harth’s deeply rooted ethos grew stronger during stints at ingredient-obsessed San Francisco culinary heavyweights such as Saison, Quince and SPQR, as well as prized Portland kitchens like Clyde Common, St. Jack, Davenport and Bar Casa Vale, but his latest project is his most personal. Erizo, a fourteen-seat sustainably sourced seafood restaurant in the inner Southeast Portland industrial district, unites Harth’s passion for ecology and sustainable fishing, penchant for exquisite plating and some of Oregon’s least-loved ocean dwellers—bycatch, offcuts and invasive species like purple sea urchin, the spiny creature behind the restaurant’s name (in Spanish, erizo del mar means hedgehog of the sea, a.k.a. sea urchin). “We have all these amazing ingredients in Oregon, especially on the coast, but there’s not a market for them, so we’re going and getting them ourselves and putting them on display and trying to change the conversation,” Harth said. Harth is especially proud of the relationships he’s built with Oregon Coast food luminaries such as Kristen Penner, the jill-of-all-trades fisherwoman behind North Coast Industries in Garibaldi. Besides sourcing everything from butter clams and cockles to black cod for Harth, she also helped him get his commercial fishing license, a boon for Erizo’s menu. “I wanted to really redefine what we think about sourcing locally, and having a commercial license allows us to put products on the menu that no other restaurant in Portland has, like limpets, Pacific red rock crab, wolf eel, gooseneck barnacles and wild mussels,” Harth said. Thursday through Saturday nights, Harth serves a beautiful, intricate twenty-course menu at Erizo, but when he’s done for the week, you won’t find him lying around. On his days off he heads straight for the coast to harvest seaweed, dig up horse clams and reel in rockfish. He’s also working toward joining ZeroFoodprint, a global coalition of restaurants committed to going carbon neutral. “We’re trying to change the culture around both what ingredients we’re using and what we’re buying, because the [carbon] footprints that restaurants have is insane,” Harth said. “I don’t like to do anything unless we’re doing it 100 percent, effort-wise. You have to be conscious of what the story of your restaurant is, what you’re doing and why you’re doing it. I don’t think there’s any doubt about ours.” www.ontrakmag.com

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EVENTS CALENDAR AURORA WINE & CHOCOLATE WALK Downtown Aurora December 7-8 $49 for two www.aurorawine andchocolate.com Celebrate this historic town with a walk through the downtown streets and a browse of the antique shops, while drinking fine wine and feasting on quality chocolate.

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Oregon Truffle Festival Multiple locations

January 23-26, February 14-16 Prices vary www.oregontrufflefestival.org

Oregon is a truffle lover’s paradise, and this festival celebrates that with fine dining, a truffle dog championship and much more, both in Eugene and the Willamette Valley. Tickets go fast, so plan ahead! Eugene

LANE COUNTY FAIR Lane Events Center July 24-28 $9 www.atthefair.com Carnival rides, animal displays and live music—the Lane County Fair is full of options to keep you busy. Constantly changing acts take to the community stage throughout the day, Oregon authors give readings, and at night, catch Night Ranger, Trace Adkins and Melissa Etheridge, among other top acts. BLACKBERRY BRAMBLE Hilyard Community Center August 4 $55-85 www.theblackberrybramble.net Oregon is a cyclist’s paradise in the summer, and the Blackberry bRamble has something for everyone. Five different routes, ranging from 37 to 117 miles, provide riders with options, including a route that takes you on a winery tour. Finish up with a post-race party, which of course includes a blackberry cobbler.


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COLONIAL HARVEST DAYS Northern Lights Christmas Tree Farm October $7.50-9.50 www.northernlightschristmastree farm.com This special fall experience celebrates the harvest season, with pumpkin patch hay rides, animals, pie-eating contests, and a corn maze.


THE OREGON JAMBOREE Sweet Home August 2-4 $160 for three-day pass www.oregonjamboree.com Swing over to Sweet Home for some good old country music. This festival features two stages and twenty-five acts, including the Brothers Osborne and Hank Williams Jr. Camp onsite and stay close to the action.


ST. PAUL RODEO St. Paul Rodeo Grounds July 2-6 $18-26 www.stpaulrodeo.com This tiny town has been putting on a big rodeo around the Fourth of July for eighty-four years. With nearly 1,000 competitors, a purse worth nearly $500,000 and a designation as a Wrangler Million Dollar Tour rodeo, this is an event not to be missed. SALEM ON ICE Riverfront Park November-January $12-15 www.salemonice.com This seasonal outdoor ice rink in Salem’s Riverfront Park will kick off its third season in November. Buy a ninety-minute session on the ice, then warm up with hot cocoa. This is a perfect winter tradition.

WATERFRONT BLUES FESTIVAL Tom McCall Waterfront Park July 4-7 $50 for a four-day pass www.waterfrontbluesfest.com This festival has been heating up downtown Portland since 1987, and it remains as popular as ever. With dozens of top artists, it’s the largest celebration of jazz, blues, funk and soul west of the Mississippi. OREGON ZOO SUMMER CONCERTS Oregon Zoo June 14-September 6 Prices vary www.zooconcerts.com The Oregon Zoo gets lots of big-name acts to play its amphitheater each year, and fans revel in the outdoor setting, the animal spotting and the great music. Bonus—tons of great food cart options. This year, look for The Indigo Girls, John Prine and Death Cab for Cutie, among others. OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL Tom McCall Waterfront Park July 24-27 $20 for a tasting package www.oregonbrewfest.com Oregon’s known for beer, so it’s no surprise Portland has been throwing this brew fest for thirtytwo years. Ninety-three Oregon breweries and eight craft cideries are on hand doling out samples, and there are plenty of other activities to keep you learning more about this special craft.

WEST COAST GIANT PUMPKIN REGATTA Tualatin Lake of the Commons October 19 Free www.tualatinoregon.gov/ pumpkinregatta Picture dozens of giant, hollowed-out pumpkins in Tualatin Lake, costumed rowers inside propelling them across the lake. That’s exactly what this is—plus plenty of other activities such as pumpkin bowling and pumpkin golf. WINE COUNTRY THANKSGIVING Willamette Valley wineries November 29-December 1 Prices vary www.willamettewines.com Celebrate the post-Thanksgiving glow with more than 150 wineries throughout Oregon wine country. Wineries offer special wine pairings and tastings, as well as events. CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL AT THE GROTTO The Grotto November 29-December 30 (except Christmas) $6-12 www.thegrotto.org Each holiday season, Portland’s The Grotto lights up. Stroll the gardens and admire the Christmas light displays, and make sure to swing by the evening concerts in the chapel. Bring a donation for the food bank as well. CHINESE NEW YEAR 2020 Lan Su Chinese Garden February $10 www.lansugarden.org Celebrate the Year of the Rat at Lan Su Chinese Garden. Learn more about Chinese traditions with this two-week celebration that includes cultural performances, lion dances and lanterns.

OREGON INTERNATIONAL AIR SHOW Hillsboro Airport September 20-22 $TBD www.oregonairshow.com This annual event, held at the Hillsboro Airport, brings airplanes old and new to show what they can do. Don’t miss the Blue Angels, and make sure to check out all the planes, helicopters and other vehicles available for walk-throughs.




October 5, 2019 – January 19, 2020 Ralph Steadman: A Retrospective is organized by The Ralph Steadman Collection with support from Flying Dog, United Therapeutics and Audible. At the JSMA, the exhibition is made possible with the generous support of the Coeta and Donald Barker Changing Exhibitions Endowment, Arlene Schnitzer and Jordan Schnitzer, the Oregon Arts Commission and the National Endowment for the Arts, a federal agency, and JSMA members.

Visit jsma.uoregon.edu/Steadman for more information. jsma.uoregon.edu 541.346.3027 EO/AA/ADA institution committed to cultural diversity

1430 Johnson Lane | University of Oregon Campus | Eugene OR 97403

Timeless, Affordable Elegance in Downtown Portland 309 SW BROADWAY 503.228.2000 BENSONHOTEL.COM


FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL Wright Park July 21 Free www.traveltacoma.com Try a taste from some of the best food trucks around the region, kick back and listen to live local music and let your kids run through the park. This is what summer is all about. TACOMA ZOO BOO Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium October 12-13 Free with admission www.pdza.org/event/zoo-boo Don your costumes and prepare for candy, games and the joy of watching animals interact with pumpkins. The event runs each day from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Seattle International Beerfest Fisher Pavilion & Lawn at Seattle Center July 12-14 $30-50


Seattle in summer is the place to be—brewers know that. Head to Seattle Center for this special brewfest that draws drinkers and makers from around the world. Keep an eye out for specialty and limited-run tastes. Vancouver

INDEPENDENCE DAY AT FORT VANCOUVER Pearson Airfield July 4 Free www.thehistorictrust.org Celebrate the Fourth of July with the biggest fireworks show in the region, at Fort Vancouver. Bring a blanket and find your spot, the earlier the better—fireworks start after 10 p.m., but many people start showing up by 6 p.m. There are no food vendors on site, so bring a picnic. CLARK COUNTY FAIR Clark County Fairgrounds August 2-11 $11.25 www.clarkcofair.com Celebrate 151 years of the fair at the Clark County Fairgrounds. Dock Dogs, a reptile exhibit, competitive sand sculpture building and even a cowboy boot camp for kids are sure to keep everyone in the family happy.


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LANTERN TOUR Fort Vancouver National Historic Site October through March $10-25 www.nps.gov/fova Tour the barracks of Fort Vancouver on an outdoor, ranger-led evening by lantern light. The dates vary year to year, and tours begin at 6:45 p.m. Be sure to call 360-816-6244 in advance because reservations are required.


CAPITAL LAKEFAIR Heritage Park July 17-21 Free www.lakefair.org This celebration has been an Olympia tradition since 1957 and features all kinds of entertainment, including a car show, a carnival and a battle of the bands.

STORYOLY Rhythm & Rye Third Tuesday of the month $5-10 suggested donation www.storyoly.com Every month, Rhythm & Rye hosts a Story Slam event inviting community members to share true stories based on a theme. The competitions run from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. and are very popular.


VASHON ISLAND STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL Various locations July 19-21 Free www.vashonchamber.com Head up to Vashon Island to celebrate the strawberry season in style. This weekend is full of fun events, including pancake breakfasts, street dances on Friday and Saturday evenings, as well as a Grand Parade and a classic car parade.

TACOMA HOME & GARDEN SHOW Tacoma Dome January 23-26 $12 www.tacomahomeandgarden show.com Get inspired to revamp, redecorate and re-tackle your home improvement and garden projects at this huge, four-day event. Thousands of exhibitors will be on hand, and you can find professional landscape artists’ gardens and a vintage market.


BITE OF SEATTLE Seattle Center July 19-21 Free www.biteofseattle.com This iconic festival brings together some of the city’s best restaurants and bars to celebrate all things culinary. Watch for chef demonstrations, a movie night, and beer and cider tasting, plus all the small plates you can handle. BUMBERSHOOT Seattle Center August 30-September 1 $TBD www.bumbershoot.com This festival has been going strong for nearly fifty years, and people come from around the country for the event—a multidisciplinary arts festival that showcases all the best Seattle has to offer. LAKE UNION WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL Center for Wooden Boats September 28-29 Free www.cwb.org Set sail for this annual, and popular, event on South Lake Union. With dozens of boats on display and plenty of interactive exhibits and entertainment, this event draws thousands every year.

SEATTLE RESTAURANT WEEK Locations around the city October 27-November 7 $35 for three-course meals www.dinearoundseattle.org Join more than 165 restaurants around Seattle that provide a $35 three-course dinner menu (many also offer two-course lunches for $20. The event is an opportunity to try new spots, find old favorites and see the culinary diversity the city has to offer. SEATTLE MARATHON Seattle Center December 1 $115-145 www.seattlemarathon.org More than 10,000 runners are expected to join in the fiftieth Seattle Marathon, which runs a pretty flat course through the city. The Sunday after Thanksgiving is the perfect time to run off that turkey dinner (and leftovers).


SEQUIM LAVENDER FESTIVAL Carrie Blake Park July 19-21 Free www.lavenderfestival.com All things lavender are the center of this weekend in Sequim. With lavender growing throughout the area, you can check out the farms and their special events, or go to Carrie Blake Park for vendors and other entertainment.


BELLINGHAM SEAFEAST Zuanich Point Park September 21-22 Free www.bellinghamseafeast.org This seafood festival celebrates the region’s maritime heritage and how much the area continues to depend on fishing and the water. You’ll enjoy all kinds of seafood snacks and plenty of family-friendly activities. FAIRHAVEN WINTERFEST Fairhaven Village Green Saturdays, November 29December 21 Free www.fairhavenwinterfest.com It’s the most wonderful time of the year—get in the spirit with this festival in Bellingham’s historic neighborhood. Live music, twinkling lights, holiday window displays, horse-drawn carriages and Santa are all on tap.



Lindsay Elliott

VANCOUVER HALLOWEEN PARADE & EXPO 2019 Robson Square October 11-13 Free www.vanhalloween.com This three-day festival features a huge parade described as “the world’s largest cosplay stage” and family-friendly events (no gory costumes, please). Some events are ticketed.

Theatre Under The Stars Malkin Bowl, Stanley Park July 5-August 17 C$30-55 www.tuts.ca

The only thing better than live musical theater? Live musical theater outside in one of the most beautiful parks in North America. Join Theatre Under the Stars for a showing of Mamma Mia! or Disney’s Newsies. CANADA DAY Fort Langley National Historic Site July 1 Free www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ bc/langley Celebrate Canada at the source—where British Columbia was born. This event features music, birthday cake and a ceremony at noon. There are also family activities on site and at nearby museums.

SEAWHEEZE HALF MARATHON & SUNSET FESTIVAL Stanley Park August 17 C$42 for festival www.seawheeze.com Join more than 10,000 runners for a weekend of yoga and running. You can enter a drawing (or pay C$178) to run the race, or just join for the festival in Stanley Park, which includes a giant dance party.

HONDA CELEBRATION OF LIGHT English Bay July 27, July 31, August 3 Free www.hondacelebration oflight.com Each year, three countries battle it out for best fireworks show. Join the fun at this three-night celebration that matches fireworks displays to music and includes a music festival at Sunset Beach.

VANCOUVER FRINGE FESTIVAL Granville Island September 5-15 C$7 for membership, ticket prices vary www.vancouverfringe.com This festival celebrates theater of all kinds. There are more than 700 performances and more than 40,000 people attend. Mainstage shows are drawn from a hat, allowing everyone a chance to participate, and artists get all the box office revenue from the festival.


RBC GRANFONDO Stanley Park to Whistler Village September 7 C$225+ www.rbcgranfondo.com Take to the Sea-to-Sky Highway on your bike for this special, oneday event. The 122-kilometer ride is family friendly, fully supported and open to all ability levels. Cold beer and hot finish line food await. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Vancouver International Film Centre September 26-October 11 C$13-22 per show www.viff.org This event is among the largest film festivals in North America— it offers the biggest selection of East Asian films outside of, you guessed it, East Asia, as well as tons of Canadian films and others that are screened at the world’s top festivals. The lineup is available in early September.

DEAR EVAN HANSEN Queen Elizabeth Theatre February 25-March 1 Prices vary www.vancouvercivictheatres.com Broadway’s hottest ticket is now on the road, and you can check out this Grammy- and Tony-award-winning musical in Vancouver for one week.

THE VANCOUVER WRITERS FEST Granville Island October 21-27 Prices vary www.writersfest.bc.ca Hear from favorite writers such as Margaret Atwood and Ian McEwan, check out free readings at the Vancouver Public Library and celebrate the magic of books for one special week. WAITRESS Queen Elizabeth Theatre November 12-17 Prices vary www.vancouvercivictheatres.com Enjoy Broadway Across Canada’s presentation of the musical adaption of the hit movie Waitress, with original music from Sara Bareilles. CANYON LIGHTS Capilano Suspension Bridge Park November 22-January 26 C$16.95-53.95 www.capbridge.com Celebrate the twinkle-light season at Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, which remains open until 9 p.m. so revelers can see the lights from the bridge, Cliffwalk, the rainforest and the canyon. Treetops Adventure, which is a series of seven suspension bridges attached to Douglas firs, are also lit. DINE OUT VANCOUVER Locations throughout the city January 17-February 2 Prices vary www.dineoutvancouver.com Celebrate the culinary wonders of Vancouver (and beyond) during this fifteen-day foodie festival. Plan to join cocktail classes, food tours, guest-chef collaboration dinners and more. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL Vancouver Convention Centre West February 22-March 1 Prices vary by event www.vanwinefest.ca Celebrate all things wine at this ten-day festival of the senses. The 2020 festival will feature France as its theme country, and you can check out wine pairings, tastings, seminars, even an auction.

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30. Athlete | 32. Notes from the Adventure

Fit For Fútbol

Sebastián Blanco brings his fiery play to Portland WRITTEN BY MACKENZIE WILSON

SEBASTIÁN BLANCO Age: 31 Hometown: Buenos Aires, Argentina Achievements: Two caps for Argentina National Team. Started more than 95 percent of games with the Timbers. 2018 Timbers Army Player of the Year.


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Craig Mitchelldyer/Portland Timbers

Sebastián Blanco’s exciting style of play fits right in with the Timbers.


WHEREVER THE PORTLAND TIMBERS take the field, a posse of loyal fans known as the Timbers Army follows. The supporters are well-known for their intensity and vocal support from the stands through chants, coordinated singing, and scarf waving. If any player matches their energy and enthusiasm, it is Timbers midfielder Sebastián Blanco. The 31-yearold’s fiery attitude often catches the attention of game announcers and officials. “It’s something that I’ve always done on the field, but unfortunately it can cause me trouble every now and then because that fiery personality on the field might not be the best example for some young players,” the Argentinian said. He’s played with the same burst of emotion since he was a little boy learning to dribble in Buenos Aires. Blanco started soccer at 4 years old but jokes that he was born with a soccer ball. In 2017, he was traded to the Timbers from a club in Argentina, and even though it meant uprooting his family—his now wife and infant daughter—he felt confident it was the right move. “We knew it was going to be a beautiful experience for our family,” Blanco said. “We weren’t unsure. … We knew exactly what we wanted to do.” A natural fit, Blanco slipped into a starring role with the Timbers. In 2018, he was awarded “Player of the Year” by the Timbers Army. “I didn’t expect that. I felt very, very happy because I worked really hard,”

he said. “It felt like a reward for the work that I put in every day.” The love flows both ways. Blanco said no matter what part of the country they play in, there are supporters from the Timbers Army waiting to cheer the team on. “They are phenomenal, you know? This is a very healthy relationship that we have between the club, the community and our fans,” he said. Tradition is important to the Timbers and their fans, even when it doesn’t make sense to other people. Blanco said people in Argentina still don’t quite get the Timbers’ post-goal tradition of taking a roaring chainsaw to a log, then parading the piece of wood through the stands. “For us players, it’s a moment where you feel very proud and you feel that you’re following tradition,” Blanco said. “You feel really close to the people because you identify with the culture of the city.” The pieces of log go to the player who scores the goal. Some slabs are given to charitable causes, but Blanco said he’s held onto the ones that represent important goals in his career. Despite being in his early 30s, Blanco can’t avoid wondering how long he’s got left on the field. He does his best to stay positive and prepare his body for the future. “There is a lot of longevity in soccer nowadays. So you know, I try to work hard and be the best I can, so I can continue to perform and play at my best level,” he said.

Blanco said no matter what part of the country they play in, there are supporters from the Timbers Army waiting to cheer the team on. “They are phenomenal, you know? This is a very healthy relationship that we have between the club, the community and our fans.” 2019 |


Notes from the Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN

Wild Pacific Woods Exploring the timber trails of Vancouver Island WRITTEN BY VIKI EIERDAM

FROM LEFT The Wild Pacific Trail features boardwalks through the wilderness. Trails include staircases and bridges. Some of the timber trails hover several feet above the forest floor.

ALONG THE WEST COAST of Vancouver Island, trails skirt beaches and cliffs and wind their way into the rainforest of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Explorers delight in windswept trees, starfish in the tidal pools, soft hanging moss and enormous cedars. Accenting the forest floor, a series of boardwalks, elevated “sidewalks” and staircases guide visitors into a world teeming with discovery. Celebrating its twentieth anniversary in September, the Wild Pacific Trail was the brainchild of “Oyster Jim” Martin. According to Denise Stys-Norman, executive director of Tourism Ucluelet, Martin saw a vision for making the coastline accessible beyond some small bushwhacked trails. With minimal impact to the pristine landscape top of mind, Martin painstakingly flagged a path and was instrumental in developing green trail-building practices. Soil degradation and proper drainage was—and continues to be—a driving force in how the WPT and trails inside the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve were constructed. As a designated rain forest, the area receives upwards of 13 feet of precipitation annually. Alternating between gravel, wood 32

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steps and stretches of boardwalk, the WPT allows visitors to be mesmerized by the energy of the ocean crashing against the craggy rocks while maintaining a safe distance. Towering ancient cedars dwarf visitors and prompt them to look up throughout the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve … but watch your step. Approximately 4,500 meters of boardwalk or “timber trails” is included in the more than 8,000 meters of trails found inside the Pacific Rim. The routes were laid out in the mid-’70s and are now maintained by one full-time trail crew member and a close knit team of seasonal trail builders. “All the guys are from the West Coast. They enjoy the work,” said Kaal Haugen, an asset technician for Parks Canada who works closely with the crew. “In the summer, they’re brush-cutting, so building in winter is a highlight of their year. They take a lot of pride in it and love doing it.” The network of timber trails is comprised of Western red cedar indigenous to British Columbia. Untreated, this wood offers a high sustainability factor, is able to be sourced locally and blends best with its environment. Thanks to two www.ontrakmag.com

Dan Eierdam

former Parks Canada employees, Ron Parsons and Robert Campbell, trails can be repaired through an efficient process they designed back in the mid-’80s. Every run of boardwalk is built the same way so there is no customization within the system. This allows boards to be pre-cut off site, brought in and installed with minimal environmental impact. On the edge of land that was logged in the ’40s and ’50s, the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve has stood undisturbed for hundreds of years. Within its protected borders are majestic cedars left to grow, drop seed cones and provide ample shade for a thriving ecosystem. Jogging around the trunks and following the natural ebb and flow of the valley floor, these timber trails go from hovering just above the forest floor to a height of 2 to 4 feet in many areas. At the 2-foot range, handrails are required. In some places a set of staircases to bridge the rising topography can give the impression of being higher than visitors actually are, but a maximum 4-foot rise is maintained throughout the network of “floating decks,” as Haugen sometimes refers to them. www.ontrakmag.com

Over the years, the WPT has grown to nearly 9 kilometers (6 miles) and Martin has proudly supervised its maintenance since 2012. Plans for the future include connecting the WPT with the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where the largest portion of wooden boardwalks can be found. Hikers of the Wild Pacific catch a sneak peek of these boardwalks at the Bog Interpretive Loop, a loop off the Lighthouse Loop trail, several viewpoint decks and staircases, and a bridge built to cross a small ravine between Big Beach and Black Rock Resort. Today, Parks Canada works closely with nine First Nations tribes to consider the archaeological and environmental impact of trail maintenance. The Schooner Cove trail sustained considerable damage this past winter from a massive storm, so all parties are involved in reconstructing the popular route to deliver the best visitor experience possible. “The initial paths that the boardwalks took were incredibly well thought out,” Haugen said. “We, as younger guys, have come back after the fact and carried that on.” 2019 |



Outside Seattle

The Eastside has its own great restaurants, wine and culture WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER

Bellevue has a big-city buzz all its own.

YOU’VE SPENT TIME in Seattle. You’ve watched them throw the fish, marveled at the view from the top of the Space Needle, maybe even caught a sunny day when the city lights up and everyone’s in short sleeves. Now it’s time to do the surprisingly nearby, and chic, suburbs. From Seattle’s King Street Station, grab an Uber or a Zipcar or jump on the bus. We picked Kirkland, Bellevue and Woodinville for our foray into the bedroom communities that make up the region. In Bellevue, start your day at Third Culture Coffee. This spot, which opened in 2017, is already wildly popular thanks to its ethically sourced coffee and tea from around the world. If you seek a caffeine buzz that’s a little international, grab a New Orleans iced coffee or an Indian filtered coffee. If you’ve got a good weather day, check out the Bellevue Botanical Garden. The 53-acre public park is free and open from dawn until dusk, and in it are a variety of gardens, from a contemplative Japanese-style spot to an area filled with rhododendrons. Next, swing to Kirkland on the shores of Lake Washington. This city has five waterfront parks with beach access. You can rent a boat or go on a boat tour along the lake, or kayak or standup paddle on a nice day. 34

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Beyond the water, the city has a lot to offer. Head downtown to browse through the shops that line the main drags, such as Rocket Fizz Soda Pop & Candy Shop and Ragamoffyn’s Women’s Consignment Store. No stop in Kirkland is complete without a macaron at Lady Yum. With fifteen regular flavors (salted caramel, s’mores, honey lavender, to name a few) and about five rotating seasonal or monthly flavors, there’s a treat for even the most discerning palates. For dinner, Volterra is the place to eat. The restaurant and its chef, Don Curtiss, were made famous by a wild boar tenderloin in a gorgonzola sauce. But the entire Tuscan menu and exceptional wine list are worth trying. Don’t sleep on the pork jowls or the lobster risotto, either. After all that delicious food, you’ll need a little exercise. Head for the Cross Kirkland Corridor, a new-ish gravel trail, running a little under 6 miles. It was once a rail line, and today it’s a 10-foot-wide trail crushed gravel trail that connects the entire city. While on the trail, there’s good news—a delightful brewery backs right up to it. Run, walk or ride your bike until you hit Chainline Brewing’s backyard deck, then belly up for a beer or two at this unassuming spot. Finally, don’t sleep on Woodinville. It is vital that you make time to eat at The Commons Kitchen and www.ontrakmag.com

Mesmerizingly fun Albany Historic Carousel & Museum

Plan your own fun Shop unique Eat farm to table Explore and learn Stay and dream Paddle and pedal Sip and salude

Call today 541-928-0911 And follow us!

Photo by Dan Bateman

Merrill Images

EAT Volterra www.volterrakirkland.com Tavern Hall www.tavern-hall.com Lady Yum www.ladyyum.com Barking Frog www.willowslodge.com/ barking_frog The Herbfarm www.willowslodge.com/ herbfarm_restaurant

STAY Willows Lodge www.willowslodge.com Heathman Hotel Kirkland www.heathmankirkland.com

PLAY Third Culture Coffee www.thirdculturecoffee.com Bellevue Art Museum www.bellevuearts.org Bellevue Botanical Garden www.bellevuebotanical.org Flatstick Pub www.flatstickpub.com Chainline Brewing www.chainlinebrew.com Patterson Cellars www.pattersoncellars.com Guardian Cellars www.guardiancellars.com


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Richard Duval

The Commons Kitchen + Bar www.thecommonscafe.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Lady Yum makes macarons seem necessary. Kirkland has five waterfront parks with beach access, perfect for kayaking on Lake Washington. Woodinville Warehouse District is ground zero for winemaking in the area.

Bar. You will likely have to wait for a table, as this is a popular spot. Trust me, it’s worth it—the bacon is crispy, the pastries are flaky, the juice is fresh squeezed. In Woodinville, wine tasting can begin before noon. Unlike places like Oregon’s Willamette Valley or Sonoma and Napa in California, which often have you traversing long country roads between wineries, Woodinville brings the wine to you. In the Hollywood District, there are nearly three dozen wine tasting rooms, many in the same buildings. The Warehouse District is where much of the wine gets made and bottled and shipped. During busy times of the year, you can see wineries sharing equipment or owners lending each other a hand. Your best bet is to focus your efforts in the Hollywood District, where you can grab bites and sips at a variety of storefronts, all within walking distance. Begin at Guardian Cellars, started by a police officer with a love of wine. Bordeaux-style blends here have names like Gun Metal and Alibi, and they’re delicious. Around the corner, sit on the heated patio at Patterson Cellars and try some truly spectacular wines, including a Sangiovese that tastes much more expensive than the price tag. Head chef Javin Bakke has also creat-

ed “experiences” with food that are totally over the top—pair your wine flight with an overflowing tray of cheese, fruits and crostini, or charcuterie and roasted veggies. Better yet, match them up with jcoco chocolates for dessert. Other tasting rooms, including William Church Wines, aMaurice Cellars and Gorman Winery, will provide you with equal delight. There’s nothing wrong with going old school and checking out Chateau Ste. Michelle, the state’s oldest winery complete with a chateau and beautiful grounds that make you feel like you’re in a more traditional setting for wine-tasting. Should you tire of wine, don’t forget there’s Woodinville Whiskey Company right up the road and Metier Brewing, a special place making very special beer. And for dinner, check out Barking Frog or The Herbfarm, both on the grounds of Willows Lodge. At Barking Frog, you’ll find a comfortable but upscale restaurant with wooden beams and rustic style, but the food is anything but casual—it’s local and modern. The Herbfarm offers nine-course dinners filled with foraged and fresh ingredients and wine pairings. Make sure to stay over at Willows Lodge for a grand finale you didn’t know you needed. www.ontrakmag.com

June 1 - August 25, 2019 Whatcom Museum Lightcatcher building Bellingham, Wash.

See 63 innovative and inspiring quilts that break the rules and make a statement! More info at whatcommuseum.org.

Quilt made by Nydia Kehnle, quilted by Gina Pina; Tessellation 4 (detail). Courtesy of MQG.

Powerful. Innovative. Inspiring.

Whale Watching packages available! 804 10th St Bellingham WA 360.756.1005 www.thechrysalisinnandspabellingham.curiocollection.com

Orcinus orca

better known as J-Pod!

Andrea Johnson


Terroir, for Beginners

Finding a new (to me) wine country WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER

I GREW UP in Oregon, but I didn’t learn about Oregon’s wine country until last fall, when I used the excuse of an Airstream trailer to take my mom on a wine country weekend. I picked her up in Portland and soon we were heading for Dundee. We started with a quick sparkling tasting at Argyle and lunch at the Dundee Bistro. Argyle’s sparkling wines are, to my mind, the best Oregon has to offer, and the tasting room’s modern look is open and airy, much different than most wineries in the area. At Dundee Bistro, my mother ordered a pizza, and I indulged in a mid-afternoon burger (it’s always good to have a solid base of meat, cheese and bread when planning to wine taste the day away). The Airstream meant we’d be staying in a local RV park, and I gazed longingly at the road to The Allison Inn & Spa as we drove nearby. On the plus side, the RV park is next door to the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum and the adjacent Wings & Waves Waterpark, and has a footpath that leads 38

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Sokol Blosser, one of Oregon’s oldest wineries, is tucked in the hills of Dundee.

from the park to the museum. Both are perfect spots when you simply can’t drink any more wine (I’ve never reached that point, but I’m sure it happens). After setting up the Airstream, we headed to Eyrie Vineyards’ tasting room. Tucked away on a little side street in McMinnville, the tasting room is unassuming and minimalist, adorned by the most important ingredient—wine. Eyrie is one of the original Oregon wineries, started in 1965, so our expectations were great, and it didn’t let us down. With a bit of time until our dinner reservation, we swung over to the R. Stuart & Co. wine bar on Third Street in the heart of downtown. We had a cheese plate and a flight of lovely Oregon pinot noirs. We were excited to see that R. Stuart & Co serves wines from a variety of vineyards. We closed our eyes and tasted the differences between wineries and winemakers. The next morning, we had an early stop at Sokol Blosser in the hills above Highway 99. This winery is www.ontrakmag.com



On Wednesday and Saturday mornings our chefs buy their ingredients fresh from their neighboring farmers at the downtown market. Give your taste buds something to remember.




The journey doesn’t end when you get to Oregon’s Mt. Hood Territory. It begins.

Come visit Corvallis and discover what you’ve been missing.

EAT The Barberry www.thebarberry.com Thistle www.thistlerestaurant.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Domaine Serene’s mission-style grounds. Domaine Drouhin’s deck offers a stunning view. The Painted Lady’s local food is presented with panache.

Red Hills Market www.redhillsmarket.com Dundee Bistro www.dundeebistro.com Babica Hen Cafe www.babicahencafe.com The Joel Palmer House Restaurant www.joelpalmerhouse.com Barlow Room www.thebarlowroom.com The Painted Lady www.thepaintedladyrestaurant.com WildWood www.wildwood.cafe Bistro Maison www.bistromaison.com

STAY The Allison Inn & Spa www.theallison.com The Vintages Trailer Resort www.the-vintages.com The Atticus Hotel www.atticushotel.com

PLAY R. Stuart & Co. www.rstuartandco.com Argyle Winery www.argylewinery.com Sokol Blosser www.sokolblosser.com Eyrie Vineyards www.eyrievineyards.com Domaine Drouhin www.domainedrouhin.com Domaine Serene www.domaineserene.com Dobbes Family Winery www.dobbesfamilyestate.com


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another of the old guard, with the family first planting vines in 1971. The family’s stewardship of its vineyards over the past forty-six years shows in its impeccable wines. In the beautiful new tasting room wrapped in a modern façade of blonde wood, we looked out floor-to-ceiling windows as fog lifted off the hills. In this slice of the Willamette Valley, the most prominent names in Oregon winemaking abound—Stoller, Erath, Dobbes, Ann Amie and Domaine Drouhin. One of the incredible things about wine tasting, particularly in Oregon, is how you can drive a few minutes and find a stunning variety in wines and wineries. Domaine Drouhin has a simple French country appearance that complements it French roots in Beaune, the heart of the Burgundy-producing region 130 miles southeast of Paris. Domaine Drouhin’s large deck with expansive views of its vineyard opened the space and, with its delicate pinot noirs, transported us to the famous cellars of Burgundy. After another delightful flight of wines, we uprooted for Domaine Serene, a beautiful Spanish Mission-style tasting room reminiscent of Napa Valley wineries. Mom and I shared a charcuterie plate and a flight

of wine while people-watching those who were dressed to be seen. McMinnville and the surrounding towns have so many excellent restaurants including Thistle, a farm-to-fork haven; The Painted Lady, a romantic Victorian house with a menu of gourmet Northwest cuisine; WildWood Cafe, a breakfast mecca; the French cuisine cottage, Bistro Maison and The Barberry, a global menu with Northwest ingredients. Sunday morning, it was time to put my Airstream skills to the test once again in preparing to get back on the road. We decided we had one tasting left in us. Since we’d have the 25 feet of Flying Cloud behind us, we researched flat and large parking areas on our way home, and discovered Dobbes Family Estate just off Highway 99 in Dundee. I parked on the street with space to spare, and we headed in. The Dobbes pourer dove deeply into the background of our pinot noir, the cherry and cranberry aromas with the earthiness of the soil enriched by the last ice age Missoula Floods that washed down the Columbia and into the Willamette Valley. We bought more bottles, with hopes of saving them for the holidays. www.ontrakmag.com


ON LONG DRIVES, they don’t talk much. They don’t judge us. In fact, they love to please. Good looks? Don’t get me started. They’re as comfortable in untouched wilderness as dining al fresco in a trendy part of town. They don’t mind slumming it, but secretly love well-heeled accommodations. Our dogs are the perfect travel companions, and most Americans, our families included, consider our dogs a member of the pack, and a contributing one at that. Increasingly, studies reveal that pets help humans reduce stress, lower blood pressure, recover from heart disease, give a good tail-lashing to hormones like cortisol, the demon behind depression


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and anxiety, and boost our oxytocin, linked to happiness and relaxation. When it comes to taking a getaway, research shows we enjoy all of these same benefits, along with better sleep and productivity. Put the two together and do the math. Getaways with dogs are a powerful cocktail. Served up in some of the Pacific Northwest’s best spots, it’s a prescription-worthy tonic. Fortunately, many hotels and inns no longer simply tolerate our BFFs (best furry friends), they woo them with canine comforts, from fluffy beds and great food to warm showers and massages. We picked some for the region’s most dog-friendly getaways—all sure to trigger a Pavlovian response.


Hotel Monaco, in Portland, offers many creature comforts.


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Alyssa Herrman CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT White Owl Social Club has a petfriendly patio. Portland Saturday Market is pet-friendly and plenty of fun. Dogs Gone Swimming in Southwest Portland is a pool for pups.

MORE TO BARK ABOUT Ace Hotel … The Benson Hotel … Hotel deLuxe … Hotel Lucia … Hotel Rose … Hotel Vintage … The Mark Spencer Hotel … McMenamins Kennedy School and McMenamins Crystal Hotel … River’s Edge Hotel & Spa … RiverPlace Hotel … The Sentinel … Sheraton Portland Airport

PORTLAND With scenic parks, eclectic markets, eateries and even pools that welcome dogs, the Rose City is worth sniffing out. Kick off the weekend with artisan coffee, pastries and perusing at Portland Saturday Market. With nearly 400 vendors, it’s the largest arts-and-crafts fair in America. Every item is reviewed by a panel that assures it meets the market’s standards of quality, and is being sold by the Oregonians and Washingtonians who handcrafted it. That includes the pet section, with handmade treats and accessories. Bonus— live music. This riverside market on Saturdays and Sundays at Waterfront Park and Ankeny Plaza in historic Old Town has been a tradition since 1974. It stays fresh, with about a dozen new craftspeople joining monthly, runs March through Christmas Eve, and it’s free.

It’s also the season to take a hint from your dog—life is better when you stop to sniff, particularly at a garden with 10,000 roses in bloom. May through September is the best time to make like your snouted friend, and inhale it all at the International Rose Test Garden. Take in views of downtown and Mount Hood from this respite, which is free and open daily. Now it’s time for a swim. Paw Aquatics’ indoor swimming pool for dogs in Southeast Portland is a cozy 88 degrees—think creature comfort and fun while taking the dirt and risks out of river swimming. Dogs Gone Swimming in Southwest Portland also has an indoor, warm swimming pool for dogs, plus small-animal massage. Refuel and unwind at eateries where wagging is almost as good as tipping, such as Lucky Lab’s four pubs with patios. The White Owl Social Club on the Central Eastside embraces the four-legged spirit, with a spacious patio and fire pit. Indulge in craft cocktails www.ontrakmag.com


made with Oregon-distilled ingredients and dishes with a locally sourced focus. At Tin Shed Garden Cafe on Northeast Alberta, the menu offers free-range, organic and local items and a menu just for canines. Tuesdays are Doggie Love Night, with dogs dining gratis when their human orders dinner. At Hotel Monaco, guest dogs are welcomed by name on the VIP (Very Important Pet) chalkboard in the lobby, the domain of a labradoodle named Addison, who is the director of pet relations. Rooms have plush pet beds, food and water bowls, waste bags, a treat and a toy. Interspecies mingling is encouraged nightly at the hotel-hosted social hour, with live music, wine and beer, and dog treats baked by the pastry chef at the hotel’s Red Star Tavern. Front desk staff go the extra mile, fetching meat or dog food on request, or reserving refrigerator space to store food for dogs on a raw diet. Unlike most properties that typically charge pet fees averaging about $25 per night, this property has none. www.ontrakmag.com

Let’s be real—more dogs (and cats) than children live within Seattle’s city limits. Companies from REI to Amazon welcome dogs in their workplaces. Dog-centric companies such as Rover, Trupanion and Healthy Paws Pet Insurance are based in Seattle and Bellevue, so you and your pup will feel right at home. Start with the outdoor wonders. For a big city, this waterfront delight has dozens of public parks and places of interest to wander with your on-leash pup. The Olympic Sculpture Park welcomes dogs, as does the Washington Park Arboretum, and both are free. Beyond that, there are fourteen off-leash dog parks in Seattle, including one with access to Lake Washington’s shoreline. If structured play is more your dog’s thing, head to the House of Ruff, an indoor dog park for those rainy Seattle days. Dogs can run and play on the rubber mats, and you can throw the ball or just watch your pup socialize while enjoying a beer and keeping an eye on the game on a big-screen television. It’s $5 per visit, but House of Ruff also requires a $40 membership fee and proof that your dog is healthy and vaccinated. The spot also offers grooming, baths, daycare and more—so your dog will definitely be cared for. Voff Bark & Brew is another option, and more of a bar scene. Dogs get in for $10 ($8 each for additional dogs), and are welcome to roam through the sports-bar interior or head out into the wraparound bark yard (complete with pools). Meanwhile, you can drink beer, wine and cider. Outdoor movies, Trivia Tuesdays, and frequent events mean everyone’s happy. Dogwood Play Park rounds out the bar-

Let’s be real—more dogs (and cats) than children live within Seattle’s city limits. Companies from REI to Amazon welcome dogs in their workplaces. Dog-centric companies such as Rover, Trupanion and Healthy Paws Pet Insurance are based in Seattle and Bellevue, so you and your pup will feel right at home.

Dirtie Dog Photography Kimpton Hotel Monaco Seattle/ Adela Lee Photography

dog park offerings, with an 8,000 square-foot indoor play area and a very cool outdoor area as well. Grab a tennis ball and a beer, a snack from the Barkery, and get ready for some play time. Dogs are allowed on public transit, so you can hop a bus all over town, then take Fido on a walk. Dogs are also allowed on sidewalks and alleys of Pike Place Market (though not in the buildings unless they’re service animals). Come summer, there are tons of dog-friendly Seattle events. For example, the Seattle Mariners host three Bark in the Park events at Safeco Field each season. For $50, a dog and human ($25 for an extra human) get to visit the ballpark, receive a Mariners-themed giveaway like a leash, walk the bases, and earn plenty of treats. Fremont Oktoberfest hosts a Sunday Dogtoberfest (this year on September 22) so the entire family can be a part of the celebration. At the event, CityDog Magazine hosts its “cover model search,” so grab a bow tie and give the pup a bath. When lunch or dinner call, there’s one restaurant that’s a must-see for pet owners. Norm’s Eatery & Alehouse, in Fremont, welcomes well-behaved dogs inside the restaurant, which is decorated from top to bottom with photos of dogs, and features its own dog menu—mini cheezy donuts, turkey nuggets, bacon pupcakes—just don’t let the dogs eat on the table or risk the health department’s strict gaze. The Seattle Barkery has several locations, including a mobile treat truck at the Magnusson Park off-leash play area, and offers dog treats and human coffee drinks. Also note there are a variety of “yappy hours” around the city, often put on by dog rescues. And Flatstick Pub, a mini-golf bar with locations in Pioneer Square, Kirkland and South Lake Union, has a Yappy Hour from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday and all day Sunday. When it’s time for a cat nap, put Seattle’s four Kimpton hotels at the top of your list. The Hotel Vintage, Hotel Monaco, Alexis and Palladian all welcome pets. They will arrange dog-sitting so you can grab a dog-free meal or head to the top of the Space Needle, and there is no size, weight or breed restriction or extra cost. You’ll get a pet-bed loaner, as well as food and water bowls and poop bags. Pets are welcome at the nightly wine reception, as well.

MORE TO BARK ABOUT Hotel Max … Hotel Andra … Pan Pacific Seattle www.ontrakmag.com

Stephanie Glotman

VANCOUVER Let’s start with the basics—Vancouverites love dogs, even if the housing and rental market aren’t particularly pet friendly. It might even be easier to bring a pet to visit than to have a pet live with you. Just remember that you’re entering Canada, which means you have to play by Canadian rules. The National Animal Health Program requires a rabies vaccination certificate before a dog can come on vacation with you. With that out of the way, get ready, because Vancouver has tons of outdoor activities and big-city shopping for you and your pup to enjoy. For starters, we can promise your dog will not go hungry while you’re here. You could go on a dog treat bakery crawl, starting with the OG, the Granville Island Pet Treatery. You’ll know when you arrive— it’s a big red caboose with a dog print on the side. Inside, you’ll find diverse flavors and Nutra Bites, which are treats designed to deal with issues such as stress, gas and allergies. Big Dog Little Dog Bakery makes cakes and other homemade treats for your pup, as well as its own dental chews called Yak Stiks, made from hard cheese. Your dog can lead you to Three Dog Bakery, which has gourmet dog food, or to Moonlight Dog Cafe, which specializes in raw pet food (and delivers it to locals). www.ontrakmag.com

When Fido has his fill of treats, work off those calories at one of the eight off-leash areas with beach access in the city. Better have a plan in place for drying off your dog, because things are about to get messy. Spanish Banks Beach Park is a sandy dream for the pups, and you’ll have plenty of people-watching. Keep an eye peeled for kiteboarders. There are also dozens of dog-friendly hikes close to the city. Try the trails around Lighthouse Park in North Vancouver, which offer perfect views of the water. A bit farther afield in North Vancouver, you can try the Big Cedar and Kennedy Falls trail, a rugged trip into the wilds of the region. You’ll be rewarded on this long hike with a true old-growth cedar tree and a stunning waterfall. Back in town, don’t miss out on Good Boy Collective, a pet supply store that just opened a brick-and-mortar spot in the city. Who knew your dog needed a chew toy that looks like an apple core, organic soaps or a yellow hooded raincoat? And yet, here we are. Barking Babies, in Yaletown, serves up similar shopping—get your dog an NHL jersey or a hand-knit sweater. When it’s time for bed, try the OPUS Hotel Vancouver. This pet-friendly boutique hotel is in Yaletown, close to parks and provides dog tents, treats and bowls to all four-legged guests. Or head to the Pan Pacific Hotel Vancouver, on the waterfront. In addition to the usual dog treats, you’ll get a list of dog-friendly locations nearby.

You could go on a dog treat bakery crawl, starting with the OG, the Granville Island Pet Treatery. You’ll know when you arrive—it’s a big red caboose with a dog print on the side.

FAR LEFT, FROM TOP The Seattle Barkery makes dog treats at three locations. The Hotel Monaco welcomes dogs, even puppies. ABOVE, FROM LEFT Good Boy Collective just opened its brick-and-mortar storefront in Vancouver. The Granville Island Pet Treatery has dog treats of all types.

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The view of First Avenue, from Columbia Street, after the Great Fire of 1889. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, A. Curtis 36930)


WHETHER IT’S BECAUSE OF FRASIER RERUNS, PEARL JAM’S POPULARITY, AMAZON OR STARBUCKS, EVERYONE KNOWS SEATTLE. THE LARGEST CITY IN THE STATE OF WASHINGTON AND IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST IS KNOWN FOR ITS COFFEE, ITS RAIN, ITS MUSIC. But in 1889, the same year Washington became a state, Seattle burned, and that paved the way for Seattle to go from a boom-and-bust timber town to the tech-savvy Space Needle-centered spot we see today. Tom Walsh, a deputy chief for the Seattle Fire Department, said these types of fires were not uncommon. “Chicago, Spokane, Boston, New Orleans all had great fires due to the prevalence of construction that enabled quick fire spread, proximity of buildings, lack of adequate water supply and volunteer rather than professional fire departments,” he said. On June 6, 1889, it was Seattle’s turn. www.ontrakmag.com

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ccording to the University of Washington’s digital archives, spring in 1889 was sunny and warm, in the 70s with little rain. The basic, and in some cases incorrect, story goes like this—a woodworking assistant in a shop on Front Street (today, First Avenue) and Madison Avenue was heating glue over a fire. The glue boiled over around 2:15 p.m., catching fire and spreading to the floor, which was covered in turpentine and wood chips. In an attempt to put out the blaze, the assistant doused it in water, but this spread out the turpentine and the fire. The fire department arrived around 2:45 p.m., but with so much smoke it was hard to find the fire’s source, and it spread out of control. The fire department struggled to fight the blaze because water pressure fell, and hoses couldn’t reach the water in Elliott Bay because of low tide. Page Olson, the president of the Last Resort Fire Department, has spent much of her time researching the Great Seattle Fire. The Last Resort Fire Department is a historical nonprofit dedicated to preserving Seattle’s fire department history through the acquisition of fire trucks and engines. The group has a museum that honors that history—and Olson became the de facto expert on the early history of the city’s firefighting, up until the department no longer used horses. Olson said there remains a lot of misunderstanding about the fire—how it started, how it grew, and why it ended. She blames the errors on a lack of understanding of Seattle’s topography at the time, as well as people bringing their current understanding of fire—how it burns in modern buildings—to the story. “If you take what you know today and what Seattle looks like today and make that the baseline, you’re never going to get it right,” she said. For starters, Seattle in the 1880s looked a lot different. Around Madison Street, everything west of where First Avenue stands today was underwater. There were bluffs about the height of a one-story building above tidal flats, and then the land rose sharply from there as you headed east, deeper into the city. It was at First and Madison that the fire started, in the basement of a building that was separated from the next by just a wooden wall. “This business where the fire began is below grade, which is critically important as the streets at that time were wooden planked streets,” Olson said. Among Olson’s quibbles with the long-held versions of the fire’s origins? The glue pot. Five people were working in the cabinetry shop that day, Olson said. “That’s why you get so much erroneous information. Just like any other accident, multiple 50

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people all give you a different version of what happened. They’re all looking in different directions or focusing on something different, so they see different things.” But, Olson said, the original interviews with the employees all agree. John Back cut some glue with scissors and placed it in a glue pot on the top of the wood-burning stove. The stove, Olson said, had a divot specifically designed for the pot. Back threw turpentine-laced shavings into the stove. But the stove got too hot, and, Olson said, the glue spontaneously combusted after passing its ignition point. Fire shot out of the glue pot. Another employee slid a wooden board across the top of the pot to suffocate the fire, Olson said, but it was impossible to seal the top and shut out the oxygen because of two small apertures for the pot’s handle. Soon the board was on fire, too. Someone threw a bucket of cold water on the fire. “If it had been warm water, the room wouldn’t have exploded,” Olson said. The glue exploded and bits of it spewed across the shop, spreading smoke and fire everywhere. Two steamers, pulled by horses, responded to the fire, Olson said. One went to the dock at Columbia Street to draft water from the bay, but because the tide was so low, it took thirty minutes to get water www.ontrakmag.com

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT People on Front Street watch smoke spread at the start of the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 1735) The ruins of the Seattle Lake Shore and Eastern Railway Co. after the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 21471) A man guards a safe from looters in the wake of the fire. (photo: MOHAI, Seattle Historical Society Collection, SHS511)

into the hoses—though they did eventually access that water. It took other firefighters on site thirty minutes to figure out where the fire was coming from. “They saw smoke but they didn’t see flames,” Olson said. Firefighters pulled up the sidewalk, and that’s when they found the inferno. “Because the fire was below grade, it was able to get in underneath the streets,” Olson said. The bad luck didn’t end there. The water used in the area where the fire started came from natural springs on what is today called First Hill (and also, commonly, Pill Hill). Olson said the city had six gulleys that went down the hillside and emptied water into Elliott Bay, with sidewalks and plank streets above. Hollow trees served as the sewage and water system, attached to the underside of the streets. Water was privately owned, and the Spring Hill Water Co. served the downtown commercial area, with a pumphouse on Lake Washington that sent water up to a 5-million gallon reservoir at the top of Beacon Hill. Fire hydrants were still scarce, Olson said—they’d begun appearing only in 1887. But the water pressure for the area was traditionally pretty good. As firefighters pulled the spring water from the hydrant, pressure dropped. www.ontrakmag.com

“It was an instantaneous cataclysmic failure,” Olson said. “Because it was below grade, the fire was able to get underneath the street and damaged supports for the water system and the water system failed.” An interview in the 1960s with the man working at the pumphouse that day told the deeper story—with the damaged structure, the water was being pumped right into Elliott Bay instead of into the hydrants. That’s when the mayor, who had taken over command from acting chief James Murphy (the real chief, Josiah Collins, was out of town for a convention), divided people into three groups—one to serve as a bucket brigade, one to remove valuables from the buildings nearby, and one deputized to protect the items removed and placed in other parts of town. alsh said a variety of factors, including the wood-framed buildings in close proximity, the lack of fire hydrants, the warm weather and the all-volunteer fire department, added up to disaster. “Once a fire gets to a certain size, it begins preheating other buildings, and large embers are carried aloft and the fire can spread across streets,” he said. “Firefighters actually attempted to dynamite 2019 |


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT People line up in front of the Tacoma Relief Bureau tent after the fire. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, UW 12404) Destroyed wharves in the fire’s wake. (photo: University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, A. Curtis 36929) Businesses, such as these along Second Avenue, set up in tents after the fire. (photo: MOHAI, Postcard Collection, 1998.62.3)

buildings to create a fire line, to no avail. We don’t do that anymore.” It’s hard to imagine, today, why it took so long for the fire to burn through the city’s buildings. The answer, Olson said, is the difference in the lumber used in the 1880s versus today. “They had these huge dimensional timbers,” she said. By late afternoon, smoke could be seen in Tacoma, and reinforcements were called in from as far as Portland and Victoria, BC. People moved their possessions up into residential neighborhoods in the hills or put them onto ships that headed to the middle of Elliott Bay. Murray Morgan’s seminal work on Seattle, called Skid Road: An Informal Portrait of Seattle, described people trying to save the spoils of the Opera House. “Inside the building stagehands worked desperately to haul scenery to safety,” he wrote. “A rescue party climbed to the Masonic Hall on the third floor and came out with the more important effects, but the building was lost.” Later, the fire reached Trinity Church, which Morgan wrote, few were eager to save. “‘It was a wooden structure and had on its front end a tall belltower,’ one volunteer fireman said later. ‘It was so ugly the fire would have been a failure if that tower had been left standing.’” A judge kept a murder trial in session as the fire blazed around the courthouse until it was only 100 feet away, then asked jurors to help save the courthouse and 52

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its records. As 120 prisoners were removed from the courthouse, a young man went to the roof and poured buckets of water on the roof to stop it from burning. With wind blowing from the northwest, the fire headed to the southeast. Ultimately, Olson said, the south end of the fire burned out when it hit the tidal flats. The area toward the south end of the fire was almost entirely wooden docks—in fact, one of the mills that burned saved its saw blades by cutting a hole in the floor and dumping them in the water before the fire arrived. Firefighters were able to stop the fire to the north, but it was a long, slow fight. In one area, the fire was slowed because of a hole in the ground, while in another area the bucket brigade covered glass windows with wet blankets, preventing the windows from breaking and the fire from getting inside the buildings. Along the eastern edge of the fire, shorter buildings with less fuel allowed firefighters to get ahold of the flames. he fire burned until 3 a.m. Twentyfive city blocks, a total of 120 acres, were destroyed. The wharves between Union and Jackson streets were gone. No humans died in the fire, though as many as 1 million rats did. UW notes that about 5,000 men lost jobs, and the city estimated its losses to be $8 million, when it may have been as high as $20 million. The cost of the fire, in today’s dollars, is about $697 million. All told, one person died as www.ontrakmag.com

a result of the fire—but not until June 27, when a wobbly brick wall fell into a pit, killing one man and injuring another. “Seattle, prior to this fire, was a pioneer town,” Olson said. “It was a backwards cesspool. It was like a glorified logging camp, though there were families and children. But it was a really nasty place and it stunk. “Before the fire, the city was trying to figure out how to fix that. It wanted to become a legitimate city. And to be able to do that they knew they had to raze the Pioneer Square area, and deal with the sewer problem and the rats and stuff.” The fire allowed Seattle to transition from a timber and coal town into a seaport. There was no time to waste. At 11 a.m. the next morning, citizens held a meeting to determine how best to move forward. The decision? Rebuild. It didn’t hurt, Olson said, that most people’s businesses hadn’t faced great losses beyond the buildings—their possessions were safe up in the hills or out on the boats, and their money was sitting in safes that hadn’t burned. Within forty-eight hours, tents were up and people were back in business. By Sunday, businesses were announcing in the newspapers where they’d set up, and within the month more than a hundred businesses were back to work. Most rebuilt where their buildings had burned. The town was placed under martial law and a relief committee was created to deal with all the donations the city received. www.ontrakmag.com

Relief arrived quickly, and Walsh said that was largely due to the fact that these fires were not uncommon. Rebuilding happened so quickly that in some cases the new buildings went up on top of rubble. “Prior to the fire of 1889, Seattle’s business district was a random pastiche of wooded structures. The lack of planned design had created a city with streets too narrow to support growth, a sewer system that was hostage to the tide levels of Elliott Bay, and a resident population of 1 million rats,” Walsh said. “Without the fire, it is unlikely there would have been a complete demolition and redesign of the entire business district. The fire happily eliminated the rodent problem as well. Gold was discovered in Alaska in the Klondike, and Seattle was a natural jumping-off point for people headed there.” Though three major mills had burned, many others had not, and they provided huge timbers to rebuild, though this time the wood would be used only for the skeletons of the buildings—brick and mortar were the orders of the day. “People needed jobs, their places of work had burned down, so they started right away,” Olson said. “There were more carpenters than were needed. … It was like a new gold rush for the carpentry and masonry workers who flooded the area.” And new building and fire codes prevented a recurrence of massive fire. The city required masonry walls be at least a foot thick, for example. If you look at buildings still standing today that were built in 1890, Olson said, you’ll notice each story has different shaped windows, because they believed that would prevent fire from spreading. Within thirty days, eighty-eight brick buildings were underway or projected to be built. “There are pictures showing people repairing docks within days, as soon as it was cool enough,” Olson noted. The burned docks were left in place and built around, and coal bunkers were rebuilt within a few months. By 1890, 465 buildings had been built. Wooden buildings were banned in the area that had burned, and in some places streets were raised up to 22 feet. After the fire, the city moved from an all-volunteer fire department to a professional one. The city took control of the water supply, eliminated wooden pipes and made the rest of the pipes larger, and increased the number of hydrants. “It takes many men to make a masonry town,” Morgan wrote. “Seattle gained more than it lost by the fire. When the fire started Seattle’s population was estimated at 31,000. When the census takers counted the population in 1890, less than a year after the fire, they found that Seattle had 37,000 inhabitants.” 2019 |



HATS OF HORSEHAIR, hats of feathers, hats of … mushrooms? It’s all waiting for you at the National Hat Museum, which is tucked in a Victorian home on SE Ladd Avenue in Portland. The United States’ largest hat museum features almost 2,000 hats spanning 200 years that have been doffed from famous and not-so-famous heads. With a tour guide dressed in 1900s period attire, you’ll see why the hat was the most essential accessory for decades. Just know, this isn’t the type of place you can just stop in—tours are by appointment only, through Airbnb Experiences or by calling the museum.


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Lu Ann Trotebas, the museum’s director, shows off some headgear.


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FAR LEFT, FROM TOP The museum has hats dating back to the Civil War, such as this spun-straw hat. Feathers and other adornments make each hat unique. Straw derbies of all kinds are on display. www.ontrakmag.com

ABOVE Nearly 2,000 hats are on display at the Portland museum.

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Eat + Stay + Play

Oregon Guide

OREGON CITY Adelsheim Vineyard Newberg $$$, Winery 29 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.3652 www.adelsheim.com ArborBrook Vineyards Newberg $$, Winery 29.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.0959 www.arborbrookwines.com

John Valls

Cana’s Feast Winery $$, Winery Carlton 37.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.852.0002 www.canasfeastwinery.com

R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar, McMinnville, Oregon

EUGENE Belly Taquería $$, Mexican 69 FEET FROM STATION 541.683.5896 www.eatbelly.com The Bier Stein $$, American, Pub 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.2437 www.thebierstein.com OUR PICK Marché $$, French 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.3612 www.marcherestaurant.com McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café $$, Brewpub 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.345.4905 www.mcmenamins.com Oregon Electric Station $$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood 374 FEET FROM STATION 541.485.4444 www.oesrestaurant.com


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Sushi Pure $$, Sushi 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.654.0608 www.sushipureeugene.com Tacovore $$, Mexican 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3518 www.tacovorepnw.com WildCraft Cider Works $$, New American 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3506 www.wildcraftciderworks.com

ALBANY Calapooia Brewing $$, Brewpub 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.1931 www.calapooiabrewing.com Frankie’s Restaurant $$, American, Steakhouse 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.248.3671 www.frankies-oregon.com Sybaris Bistro $$$, New American 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.8157 www.sybarisbistro.com

SALEM ACME Cafe $$, American 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.798.4736 www.acmecafe.net Christos Pizzeria & Lounge $$, Pizza 1.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.2892 www.christospizzasalem.com Gamberetti’s Italian Restaurant $$, Italian 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.7446 www.gamberettis.com Wild Pear $$, Cafe 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.378.7515 www.wildpearcatering.com Willamette Valley Vineyards Turner $$, Winery 9.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.588.9463 www.wvv.com

Oregon City Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.908.1948 www.ocbeerco.com R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar $$, Wine McMinnville 38.7 MILES FROM STATION 866.472.8614 www.rstuartandco.com

Gloria’s Secret Café Beaverton $$, Latin American 8.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.268.2124 www.gloriassecretcafe.com Imperial Restaurant $$, American 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.7222 www.imperialpdx.com OUR PICK Laurelhurst Market $$$, Steakhouse 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.206.3097 www.laurelhurstmarket.com Le Bouchon $$$, French 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.2193 www.bouchon-portland.com Oven and Shaker $$, Pizza, Italian 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.1600 www.ovenandshaker.com


The Palm Court $$$, American 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.bensonhotel.com

Caffe Mingo $$, Italian 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.4646 www.caffemingonw.com

The Parish $$, Seafood, Southern 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.227.2421 www.theparishpdx.com

Chennai Masala Hillsboro $$, Indian 12 MILES FROM STATION 503.531.9500 www.chennaimasala.net

Ruth’s Chris Steak House $$$, Steakhouse 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.221.4518 www.ruthschris.com

Decarli Beaverton $$, Italian 8.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.641.3223 www.decarlirestaurant.com Elephant’s Delicatessen $$, Deli MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.elephantsdeli.com Garden Bar $$, Vegetarian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.gardenbarpdx.com

Serratto Restaurant & Bar $$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.221.1195 www.serratto.com Syun Izakaya Hillsboro $$, Japanese 16.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.640.3131 www.syun-izakaya.com



Eat + Stay + Play

Best Western New Oregon Motel 2 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3669 www.book.bestwestern.com C’est La Vie Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.302.3014 www.cestlavieinn.com Courtyard Eugene Springfield 4.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.726.2121 www.marriott.com Excelsior Inn 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.6963 www.excelsiorinn.com Hilton 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.2000 www.hilton.com Holiday Inn Express & Suites 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.1243 www.ihg.com OUR PICK Inn at the 5th 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.4099 www.innat5th.com

Phoenix Inn Suites 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.926.5696 www.phoenixinn.com

SALEM The Grand Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.540.7800 www.grandhotelsalem.com Hampton Inn & Suites 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.362.1300 www.hamptoninn3.hilton.com Red Lion 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.370.7888 www.redlion.com

OREGON CITY Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.655.7141 www.book.bestwestern.com

Grand Hotel at Bridgeport Tigard 11.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.5757 www.grandhotelbridgeport.com Lakeshore Inn Lake Oswego 6.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.636.9679 www.thelakeshoreinn.com

PORTLAND Ace Hotel 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2277 www.acehotel.com OUR PICK The Benson, a Coast Hotel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 www.coasthotels.com Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.288.5225 www.tinyhousehotel.com

Vivian Johnson


Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3160 www.ovaldoor.com

Embassy Suites Portland Washington Square Tigard 11.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.644.4400 www.portlandembassy suites.com Friendly Bike Guest House 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.799.2615 www.friendlybikeguest house.com Hotel Eastlund 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.235.2100 www.hoteleastlund.com Hotel Modera 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 877.484.1084 www.hotelmodera.com Inn @ Northrup Station 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0543 www.northrupstation.com

Jupiter Hotel 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.230.9200 www.jupiterhotel.com McMenamins Edgefield Troutdale 13.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.669.8610 www.mcmenamins.com McMenamins Grand Lodge Forest Grove 25.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.992.9533 www.mcmenamins.com The Nines 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 877.229.9995 www.thenines.com Resort at the Mountain Mt. Hood Village 45.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.622.3101 www.theresort.com River’s Edge Hotel & Spa 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.802.5800 www.riversedgehotel.com Shift Vacation Rentals 3.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.208.2581 www.shiftvacationrentals.com Tierra Soul Urban Farm & Guesthouse 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.489.7645 www.tierrasoulpdx.com Timberline Lodge Timberline 62.5 MILES FROM STATION 800.547.1406 www.timberlinelodge.com

Phoenix Inn Suites 1 MILE FROM STATION 541.344.0001 www.phoenixinn.com

The Westin 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.294.9000 www.westinportland.com

Valley River Inn 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.1000 www.valleyriverinn.com

ALBANY Best Western Plus Prairie Inn 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.5050 www.book.bestwestern.com Comfort Suites 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.2053 www.comfortsuites.com

Shift Vacation Rentals, Portland, Oregon www.ontrakmag.com

2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

EUGENE Bijou Metro 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.686.3229 www.bijou-cinemas.com Cascades Raptor Center 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.1320 www.eraptors.org Heritage Dry Goods 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.393.6710 www.heritagedrygoods.com Hult Center for the Performing Arts 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.682.5087 www.hultcenter.org Museum of Natural & Cultural History 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.346.3024 www. natural-history. uoregon.edu Oakway Center 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.4711 www.oakwaycenter.com

ALBANY OUR PICK Albany Antique Mall 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.0109 www.albanyantiquemall.com Gallery Calapooia 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.971.5701 www.gallerycalapooia.com Oregon Coast Aquarium Newport 65 MILES FROM STATION 541.867.3474 www.aquarium.org

SALEM Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark McMinnville 24.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.434.4185 www.evergreenmuseum.org Gilbert House Children’s Museum 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.3631 www.acgilbert.org

Historic Elsinore Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.375.3574 www.elsinoretheatre.com

Bella Casa 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.222.5337 www.bellacasa.net

Salem Center 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.9676 www.salemcenter.com

Bonnet 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2271 www.shop.bonnet boutique.com

OREGON CITY Bridgeport Village Tigard 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.1704 www.bridgeport-village.com Clackamas Repertory Theater 3.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.594.6047 www.clackamasrep.org End of the Oregon Trail 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.657.9336 www.historicoregoncity.org

PORTLAND Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.4335 www.portland5.com

Boys Fort 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.567.1015 www.boysfort.com Ellington Handbags 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.542.3149 www.ellingtonhandbags.com Garnish Apparel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2292 www.garnishapparel.com McMenamins Crystal Ballroom 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.225.0047 www.mcmenamins.com

Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort Mt. Hood 75 MILES FROM STATION 503.337.2222 www.skihood.com Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.797.4000 www.omsi.edu Oregon Zoo 3.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.1561 www.oregonzoo.org Physical Element 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.5425 www.physicalelement.com OUR PICK Pittock Mansion 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.823.3623 www.pittockmansion.org Portland Art Museum 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.226.2811 www.portlandartmuseum.org Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 971.319.6934 www.rachellem.com Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks & Minerals Hillsboro 17.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.647.2418 www.ricenorthwest museum.org Twist 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0334 www.twistonline.com US Outdoor Store 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.223.5937 www.usoutdoor.com

Oregon Coast Aquarium, Newport, Oregon 60

| 2019



Eat + Stay + Play

Washington Guide

Sharps Roasthouse $$, American, BBQ SeaTac 13.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.241.5744 www.sharpsroasthouse.com

Pacific Grill, Tacoma, Washington

Magdalena’s Creperie $$, Breakfast, Brunch, Desserts 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.483.8569 www.magdalenascreperie.com

TanakaSan $$, Asian Fusion 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.812.8412 www.tanakasanseattle.com Westward $$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American 5.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.552.8215 www.westwardseattle.com

EDMONDS Arnies Restaurant $$, Seafood 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5688 www.arniesrestaurant.com

EVERETT KELSO/LONGVIEW The Office 842 $$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.442.4647 www.theoffice842.com

CENTRALIA OUR PICK McMenamins Olympic Club Pub $$, Brewpub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY Farrelli’s Pizza $$, Italian 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.493.2090 www.farrellispizza.com Fish Tale Brew Pub $$, Brewpub 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.3650 www.fishbrewing.com

TACOMA Asado $$$, Argentine 4.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.7770 www.asadotacoma.com


Odd Otter Brewery $, Brewery 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.327.1680 www.oddotterbrewing.com Pacific Grill $$, American, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.627.3535 www.pacificgrilltacoma.com

TUKWILA Miyabi Sushi $$, Japanese 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.575.6815 www.miyabisushi.com

SEATTLE Assaggio Ristorante $$$, Italian 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.441.1399 www.assaggioseattle.com Eastside Bar & Grill $$, American Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444 www.coasthotels.com Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails $$, American, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.971.8015 www.frolik.motifseattle.com

John Howie Steak $$$$, American, Steakhouse Bellevue 10 MILES FROM STATION 425.440.0880 www.johnhowiesteak.com

Anthony’s HomePort $$, Seafood 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.3333 www.anthonys.com

Little Water Cantina $$, Mexican 4 MILES FROM STATION 206.397.4940 www.littlewatercantina.com


Loulay Kitchen & Bar $$, French, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.402.4588 www.thechefinthehat.com OUR PICK Pine Box $$, Brewpub 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.588.0375 www.pineboxbar.com Revel $$, Asian Fusion, Korean 5.9 MILES FROM STATION 206.547.2040 www.revelseattle.com Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar $$$, American, Seafood Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.456.0010 www.seastarrestaurant.com

Stanwood Grill $$, American 289 FEET FROM STATION 360.629.5253 www.stanwoodgrill.com

MOUNT VERNON Skagit River Brewery $$, Brewpub 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.2884 www.skagitbrew.com

BELLINGHAM Colophon Café $$, Café, Salad, Sandwiches 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.647.0092 www.colophoncafe.com Leaf & Ladle $$, Soup, Sandwiches 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.319.9718 www.facebook.com/ leafandladle

2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play


Coast Bellevue Hotel Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444 www.coasthotels.com Coast Gateway Hotel SeaTac 13.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.248.8200 www.coasthotels.com Greenlake Guest House 7.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.729.8700 www.greenlakeguesthouse.com Hotel 1000 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.957.1000 www.hotel1000seattle.com OUR PICK Hotel Monaco 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.1770 www.monaco-seattle.com Grand Hyatt Seattle 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.774.1234 www.seattle.grand.hyatt.com Inn at the Market 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.0631 www.innatthemarket.com The Maxwell Hotel 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.286.0629 www.staypineapple.com

McMenamins Olympic Club Hotel, Centralia, Washington

KELSO/LONGVIEW Monticello Hotel 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.9900 www.themonticello.net

CENTRALIA Centralia Square Hotel 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.807.1212 www.centraliasquare.com McMenamins—Olympic Club Hotel & Theater 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164 www.mcmenamins.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY The Governor, a Coast Hotel 7.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.352.7700 www.coasthotels.com 62

| 2019

Little Creek Casino Resort 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 www.little-creek.com Red Lion Hotel 8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.4000 www.redlion.com

TACOMA Hotel Murano 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 253.238.8000 www.hotelmuranotacoma.com Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma Waterfront 3.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.1300 www.silvercloud.com

TUKWILA Cedarbrook Lodge SeaTac 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.901.9268 www.cedarbrooklodge.com Springhill Suites Renton 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 425.226.4100 www.marriott.com

SEATTLE Alexis Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.624.4844 www.alexishotel.com Belltown Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.529.3700 www.belltown-inn.com

The Moore Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.4851 www.moorehotel.com The Paramount Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.292.9500 www.paramounthotel seattle.com Seattle Sheraton 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.9000 www.sheratonseattle.com Sorrento Hotel 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.622.6400 www.hotelsorrento.com

EDMONDS Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5021 www.book.bestwestern.com

Coast Wenatchee Center Hotel Wenatchee 133 MILES FROM STATION 509.662.1234 www.coasthotels.com Courtyard by Marriott Seattle North 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.670.0500 www.marriott.com

EVERETT Holiday Inn Downtown Everett 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.339.2000 www.ihg.com OUR PICK Inn at Port Gardner 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.6779 www.innatportgardner.com

STANWOOD Cedar Bluff Cottage 5.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.445.3333 www.cedarbluffcottage.com Hotel Stanwood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.2888 www.stanwoodhotel saloon.com

MOUNT VERNON Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.428.5678 www.book.bestwestern.com Tulip Inn 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 800.599.5696 www.tulipinn.net

BELLINGHAM The Chrysalis Inn & Spa 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.756.1005 www.thechrysalisinn.com Fairhaven Village Inn 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.733.1311 www.fairhavenvillageinn.com Hotel Bellwether 4 MILES FROM STATION 360.392.3100 www.hotelbellwether.com



Eat + Stay + Play

Kiggins Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.816.0352 www.kigginstheatre.net

KELSO/LONGVIEW Cowlitz County Tourism Visit Mount St. Helens 360.577.3137 www.visitmtsthelens.com Kelso Theater Pub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.414.9451 www.ktpub.com

CENTRALIA Centralia Factory Outlets 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.3327 www.centraliafactory outlet.com Centralia Fox Theatre 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.623.1103 www.centraliafoxtheatre.com

OLYMPIA/LACEY Capitol Tours 7.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.902.8880 www.des.wa.gov OUR PICK Little Creek Casino Resort Shelton 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 www.little-creek.com Rhythm & Rye 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.705.0760 www.facebook.com/ rhythmandrye

Tacoma Art Museum 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.4258 www.tacomaartmuseum.org Washington State History Museum 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.3500 www.washingtonhistory.org

TUKWILA Museum of Flight 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.764.5720 www.museumofflight.org


Olympic Sculpture Park 2 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org OUR PICK Pike Place Market 1.4 MILES FROM STATION www.pikeplacemarket.org Seattle Aquarium 1 MILE FROM STATION 206.386.4300 www.seattleaquarium.org Seattle Art Museum 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 www.seattleartmuseum.org

Bellevue Arts Museum Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.519.0770 www.bellevuearts.org

Woodland Park Zoo 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.548.2500 www.zoo.org

Chihuly Garden and Glass 2.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.753.4940 www.chihulygardenand glass.com

Cascadia Art Museum 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.336.4809 www.cascadiaartmuseum.org


Museum of History and Industry 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.324.1126 www.mohai.org

Edmonds Center for the Arts 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.275.4485 www.edmondscenterforthe arts.com

Neptune Theatre 4.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.682.1414 www.stgpresents.org

Visit Edmonds 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 1.877.775.6935 www.visitedmonds.com

Northwest Outdoor Center 3.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.281.9694 www.nwoc.com

EVERETT Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour Mukilteo 8 MILES FROM STATION 1.800.464.1476 www.futureofflight.org

Whatcom Museum 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.778.8930 www.whatcommuseum.org

XFINITY Arena at Everett 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 425.322.2600 www.xfinityarenaeverett.com

STANWOOD Stanwood Cinemas 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.0514 www.faraway entertainment.com

MOUNT VERNON Downtown Mount Vernon 360.336.3801 www.mountvernon downtown.org Lincoln Theatre 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.8955 www.lincolntheatre.org

BELLINGHAM Bellingham Railway Museum 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.393.7540 www.bellinghamrailway museum.org Mount Baker Theatre 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.734.6080 www.mountbakertheatre.com

Isaac Peterson


TACOMA LeMay—America’s Car Museum 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.779.8490 www.americascarmuseum.org Museum of Glass 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.284.4750 www.museumofglass.org Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium 7.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.591.5337 www.pdza.org Tacoma Art Museum, Tacoma, Washington www.ontrakmag.com

2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

Vancouver Guide Jade Yumang

Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar $$, Italian, Wine 4 KM FROM STATION 604.736.2220 www.novopizzeria.com The Oakwood Canadian Bistro $$, Gastropub, Canadian 5.6 KM FROM STATION 604.558.1965 www.theoakwood.ca Octopus’ Garden $$$, Japanese, Sushi 4.5 KM FROM STATION 604.734.8971 www.octopusgardensada.com Opus Bar $$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2107 www.opushotel.com

Forty Ninth Parallel Café, Vancouver, BC

Ask for Luigi $$, Italian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.428.2544 www.askforluigi.com OUR PICK

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca $$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7466 www.cioppinosyaletown.com

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie $$$, Chinese 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.0876 www.bao-bei.ca

Cuchillo $$, Latin American 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.559.7585 www.cuchillo.ca

Blue Water Cafe $$, Seafood 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8078

www.bluewatercafe.net Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar $$$, Seafood, Steakhouse 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2900 www.boulevardvancouver.ca Café at John Henry’s $$, American 115 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2336 www.johnhenrysresort marina.com Chambar $$$, Belgian, Breakfast 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.879.7119 www.chambar.com

The Diamond $$, Gastropub 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.568.8272 www.di6mond.com Fable Kitchen $$, Canadian 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.732.1322 www.fablekitchen.ca

The Keefer Bar $$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.1961 www.thekeeferbar.com Kintaro Ramen $, Asian 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.682.7568 Kirin $$, Seafood, Dim Sum MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.kirinrestaurants.com L’Abattoir $$$, French, Canadian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.568.1701 www.labattoir.ca

Forty Ninth Parallel Café $, Coffee, Donuts 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.872.4901 www.49thparallelroasters.com

Lighthouse Pub $$, Gastropub 70.1 KM FROM STATION 604.885.9494 www.lighthousepub.ca OUR PICK

Jules $$, French 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0033 www.julesbistro.ca

Marutama Ramen $$, Asian 3.6 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8837 www.marutama.ca

Salt Tasting Room $$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.633.1912 www.salttastingroom.com Sal y Limon $, Mexican 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.677.4247 www.salylimon.ca Savary Island Pie Company $$, Bakery, Coffee 10.6 KM FROM STATION 604.926.4021 www.savaryislandpie company.com Wildebeest $$$, Gastropub, Canadian 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.687.6880 www.wildebeest.ca Yaletown Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2739 www.mjg.ca

Molly’s Reach $$, American, Seafood 47 KM FROM STATION 604.886.9710 www.mollysreach.ca


| 2019



Eat + Stay + Play Auberge Vancouver Hotel 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.678.8899 www.aubergevancouver.com Barclay House 3.5 KM FROM STATION 604.605.1351 www.barclayhouse.com Bee & Thistle Guest House 3.3 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0715 www.beeandthistle.ca The Burrard 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2331 www.theburrard.com Coast Coal Harbour Hotel 2.7 KM FROM STATION 604.697.0202 www.coasthotels.com Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 4.2 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7711 www.coasthotels.com Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel 9.3 KM FROM STATION 604.263.1555 www.coasthotels.com English Bay Inn 5 KM FROM STATION 604.683.8002 www.englishbayinn.com

OUR PICK Granville Island Hotel 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.683.7373 www.granvilleislandhotel.com Hotel at the Waldorf 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.253.7141 www.hotelatthewaldorf.ca

Loden Hotel 3.4 KM FROM STATION 877.225.6336 www.theloden.com Moon Dance Vacation Rentals 107 KM FROM STATION 604.841.5805 www.moondance.travel OUR PICK

The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel 3.2 KM FROM STATION 604.685.1301 www.rivieravancouver.com Rosewood Hotel Georgia 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5566 www.rosewoodhotels.com St. Clair Hotel - Hostel 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.648.3713 www.stclairvancouver.com

Hotel Blue Horizon 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.688.1411 www.bluehorizonhotel.com

OPUS Vancouver 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.6787 www.opushotel.com

The Kingston Hotel 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.9024 www.kingstonhotel vancouver.com

The Painted Boat Resort Spa & Marina 101 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2456 www.paintedboat.com

Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler Whistler 132 KM FROM STATION 604.932.2778 www.summitlodge.com

The Landis Hotel & Suites 3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.3555 www.landissuites vancouver.com

Patricia Hotel 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.255.4301 www.patriciahotel.ca

The Sylvia Hotel 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.9321 www.sylviahotel.com

Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver Harbourfront 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.689.9211 www.pinnacleharbour fronthotel.com

Victorian Hotel 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.681.6369 www.victorianhotel.ca

L’Hermitage Hotel 2 KM FROM STATION 778.327.4100 www.lhermitage vancouver.com The Listel Hotel 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.7092 www.thelistelhotel.com

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.689.7777 www.wedgewoodhotel.com

Executive Hotel LeSoleil 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.632.3000 www.hotellesoleil.com Executive Hotel Vintage Park 2.9 KM FROM STATION 1.800.570.3932 www.executivehotels.net Fairmont Chateau Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 604.938.8000 www.fairmont.com Georgian Court Hotel 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5555 www.georgiancourthotel vancouver.com Granville House B&B 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.739.9002 www.granvillebb.com

The Burrard, Vancouver, BC www.ontrakmag.com

2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, Vancouver, BC

Bau-Xi Gallery Contemporary Fine Art 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.733.7011 www.bau-xi.com Beaty Biodiversity Museum 14.2 KM FROM STATION 604.827.4955 www.beatymuseum.ubc.ca Bloedel Floral Conservatory 5.9 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8584 www.vancouver.ca Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 10.7 KM FROM STATION 604.985.7474 www.capbridge.com Craigdarroch Castle Victoria 115 KM FROM STATION 250.592.5323 www.thecastle.ca

OUR PICK Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.662.3207 www.vancouverchinese garden.com Granville Island 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.666.6655 www.granvilleisland.com Greater Vancouver Zoo 53.3 KM FROM STATION 604.856.6825 www.gvzoo.com Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara Parksville 111 KM FROM STATION 250.248.1838 www.grottospa.com H.R. MacMillan Space Centre 4.9 KM FROM STATION 604.738.7827 www.spacecentre.ca Museum of Vancouver 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.736.4431 www.museumofvancouver.ca


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The Orpheum 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050 www.vancouver.ca

Robson Street 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.669.8132 www.robsonstreet.ca

Vancouver Aquarium 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.659.3474 www.vanaqua.org

Peak 2 Peak Gondola Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.888.403.4727 www.whistlerblackcomb.com

Rockwood Adventures 7.4 KM FROM STATION 604.913.1621 www.rockwoodadventures.com

Vancouver Maritime Museum 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8300 www.vancouvermaritime museum.com

Pirate Adventures 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.754.7535 www.pirateadventures.ca Queen Elizabeth Theatre 1.6 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050 www.vancouver.ca OUR PICK

Rogers Arena 2 KM FROM STATION 604.899.7400 www.rogersarena.com Science World at TELUS World of Science 400 METERS FROM STATION 604.443.7440 www.scienceworld.ca

Richmond Olympic Oval Richmond 14 KM FROM STATION 778.296.1400 www.richmondoval.ca

Skookumchuck Narrows Provincial Park 129 KM FROM STATION

River Rock Casino Resort Richmond 12.2 KM FROM STATION 877.473.8900 www.riverrock.com

Vancouver Art Gallery 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.662.4700 www.vanartgallery.bc.ca

Whistler Blackcomb Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.800.766.0449 www.whistlerblackcomb.com






Photo Contest

The historic Ralston House in Albany, Oregon. PHOTO BY STEPHANIE LOW Send us a photo that represents your experience of the Pacific Northwest for a chance to be published here.

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Bellingham Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett Edmonds

The Great Seattle Fire page 48


Seattle Tacoma

Olympia/Lacey Centralia

Plover flower seed kits page 14



Vancouver, WA Oregon City

Salem Albany

The whimsical works of Frank Makes page 18



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Bring your bike on the train We know how much you love bicycling—it’s just part of the Pacific Northwest culture. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to take your bike along on your next trip aboard Amtrak Cascades. Travel in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia is made all the more enjoyable when you combine trains and bikes for the ultimate in eco-friendly transportation. 1. MAKE A RESERVATION FOR YOU AND YOUR BIKE You’ll need to book space for both you and your bike by going online to: AmtrakCascades.com, visiting a staffed station, or calling 1-800-USA-RAIL. 2. RACK YOUR BIKE Ten bike racks are available on every Amtrak Cascades train. Bike racks, located in the baggage car, must be reserved for a cost of $5 each. Book early to ensure bike space is available and you get the best fare for your own ticket. This is particularly important during busy summer months when trains fill up quickly. 3. BOX YOUR BIKE If you don’t make advance reservations, you may find the bike rack space is all sold out. If that’s the case, you can opt to box your bike (except at unstaffed stations)* for an additional $15/box plus a $10 handling fee. You’re responsible for disassembling and reassembling your bike. Remember to bring your tools along. *Unstaffed stations: Kelso/Longview, Mt. Vernon, Olympia/Lacey, Oregon City, Stanwood and Tukwila

Looking for a great place to ride? All of the Amtrak Cascades eighteen station stops offer nearby bike routes that allow you to explore the area. Many follow old rail corridors, so you can further intertwine your train and bike adventures. Check out more bike trips along the corridor at amtrakcascades.com. Vancouver, BC The Stanley Park Seawall is one of the best rides you’ll find in Vancouver proper. Seattle The Emerald City is a great starting point for bike adventures such as the 19mile Burke-Gilman Trail, which dissects the city’s diverse neighborhoods. Tacoma The Ruston waterfront and Point Defiance Park offer a wonderful place to spend an afternoon of bicycling. Portland One of the nation’s top bike cities, Portland is the gateway to several scenic bike trips, including the Tualatin Valley trail that offers a 50-mile route through the northern Willamette Valley. Albany Tackle all or part of the gorgeous 132-mile Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway that meanders through vineyards, hop farms and quaint towns.


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Parting Shot

UPPER RIDGE TRAIL IN THE CHUCKANUT RIDGE TRAIL SYSTEM, LARRABEE STATE PARK The Bellingham area offers acres of world-class mountain bike trails. PHOTO BY BRANDON SAWAYA


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joy ride Totally blissed out, this adventure is anything but basic. Finally finding our sync, we see ripples on the surface and spot the marine life beneath us. We linger before moving on. Fueled with adrenaline. High fives all around.


small ships, BIG adventures

888-862-8881 UnCruise.com










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PICTURED HERE: Kimpton Hotel Vintage Seattle

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route