1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Resorts Northwest | December/January 2025

4,000 AWARDS & COUNTING!

100+ PLATINUM AWARDS

Maryhill is Washington’s premier destination for wine enthusiasts and those exploring wine for the first time— offering approachable, award-winning wines crafted from many of the state’s diverse vineyards working with more than 35 varieties of grapes and crafting 65 distinct wines. Our four scenic tasting rooms offer several different daily wine flights & culinary offerings that pair perfectly with each wine. We invite you to be part of this journey— where every bottle holds a story and every sip, a celebration of the region we call home.

The Edge of Exotic

An adventure photographer explores remote and beautiful Washington for inspiring stories and pictures. (pg. 62)

photography by Scott Rinckenberger

Dryopteris expansa, known as “spreading wood fern” due to the broad expansion as the fern grows out and up to a meter in height from a central rhizome, creates beautiful, densely overlapping patterns of geometric perfection.

50

Northern Lights

Discover Washington’s best locations to witness the magical aurora borealis. Patience and a thermos are all you need. wri en by Ryn Pfeu er

58

The Vanishing of International Students

Trump administration policies pose a cultural and financial threat to Washington’s universities. wri en by Lauren Kramer

62 Adventure in Focus

Sco Rinckenberger shows us Washington’s wild beauty through stunning photography and storytelling. wri en by Kerry Newberry

Stephen Mitchell

The aurora borealis paints the skies above the Methow Valley.

Editor’s Le er 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time 10 11 86 88

photo by John Quach/Cosmic Zen Photography e Nisqually River and Mount Rainier

(see “Chasing the Northern Lights,” pg. 50)

14 SAY WA?

The Great Big Game Show; Makers Market and light art in Port Angeles; Argosy Christmas Ship Festival; the best Washington albums of the year.

20 FOOD + DRINK

Talking Cedar Brewery & Distillery; Orcas Isle Cider; Nelson Crab Smoked Fish; Willapa Brewing Company; best burgers.

26 FARM TO TABLE

Taylor Shellfish Farms: sustainable mussel farming in the healthy waters of Puget Sound.

32 HOME + DESIGN

An eco-friendly, o -grid, tiny prefab cabin that blends architecture and nature.

42 MIND + BODY

Colton Smith: Washington’s top tennis player chases his dreams on the pro circuit.

THINK

46 MY WORKSPACE

Fresco Chocolate: award-winning cra chocolate made in Lynden, inspired in Berkeley.

48 GAME CHANGER

Outdoors for All Foundation opens doors to people of all abilities.

LIVE EXPLORE

72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Explore Washington’s wild coastline at its northwesternmost point, Cape Fla ery.

74 ADVENTURE

Reconnect with nature and find peace at Washington’s top meditation retreats.

76 LODGING

Tokeland Hotel and its historic, rustic charm on the Washington coast.

78 TRIP PLANNER

A Poulsbo winter getaway with Norwegian charm.

84 NW DESTINATION

Harrison Hot Springs: British Columbia’s cure for mid-winter blues.

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTORS

CODY MUIR

Illustrator Musician

“Growing up in the PNW, nature has always played a major role in my life. I find that even now, as an illustrator living in New England, the natural beauty of Oregon, Idaho and Washington always manages to find its way into my work. I think I’ll be chasing that Pacific Northwest atmosphere in my art wherever I go.” (pg. 16)

Cody Muir is an illustrator and motion designer currently living in coastal Maine with his wife, Taylor. His work often explores mood and setting as storytelling avenues with an emphasis on capturing atmospheric scenes.

RYN PFEUFFER Writer

Chasing the Northern Lights

“Living in the Pacific Northwest, I’ve seen my fair share of moody skies—but nothing compares to the aurora. When the northern lights appear, there’s something so transcendent about that rare, fleeting glow. It lingers in your mind; a quiet reminder that magic doesn’t always live in faraway places. Sometimes, it shows up right where you are.” (pg. 50)

Ryn Pfeuffer’s work has appeared in AFAR, Business Insider, Cruise Critic, Men’s Health, National Geographic Traveler, The Seattle Times and Travel + Leisure. She lives on Whidbey Island with her partner and rescue puppy.

CORINNE WHITING Writer

Farm to Table

“After years of writing these Farm to Table features, it’s always rewarding to gain new knowledge. I loved diving deeper into the world of shellfish aquaculture, and learning how mussel farming stands out as one of the most environmentally sustainable forms of food production. And having spent several dreamy afternoons at Taylor Shellfish Farms’ Bow location, it was great to interview that team about their hard work.” (pg. 26)

Corinne Whiting is a freelance travel and lifestyle writer with a master’s in cultural studies from the University of Edinburgh, Scotland. She’s spent extensive amounts of time in both Washingtons—the city and the state—and she loves to trot around the country and globe whenever opportunities arise, too.

NI MA

Illustrator

Home + Design DIY

“I’m often inspired by the quiet beauty of everyday things: the rhythm of daily routines, the textures of handmade objects and the small stories hidden in ordinary moments. Illustration, for me, is a way to translate those observations into something visual and tactile, a process that feels both meditative and playful, always reminding me why I love to create.” (pg. 38)

Ni Ma is an illustrator and designer who brings playful storytelling and thoughtful design together in her work. She creates imaginative pieces that blend warmth, humor and curiosity—inviting viewers into worlds that feel both familiar and delightfully unexpected.

EDITOR Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES Jenny Kamprath

BEERVANA COLUMNIST Jackie Dodd

C ONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Ben Salmon, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jackie Dodd, Reva Keller, Shannon Mahre, Stephen Mitchell, Andrew Pogue, Andy Porter, John Quach

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Ni Ma, Cody Muir

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FROM THE EDITOR

ONE OF THE joys in life is finding places where people aren’t just like you. Our universities have been such a place, where you meet people from all over the world and learn a bit about how they live and what is important to them, the longest word in their language, their favorite authors and music, and sometimes even what love looks like to them.

This fall, enrollment of international students plunged 17 percent as federal policies under the Trump administration struck home. Reprising travel bans from his first presidency, Trump initiated a new travel ban of twelve countries in the summer of 2025, while students from seven more countries were partially obstructed from entry. In September, Trump raised the price of H1-B visas, which teaching academics often use, to $100,000, pushing it to a prohibitive level.

At the University of Washington alone, international students account for 14 percent of enrollment and a disproportionate amount of revenue. Just as higher education was struggling with higher costs and effective shakedowns, where colleges could reclaim their federal funding if they changed their enrollment and courses to mirror the right wing ideology administered by Linda McMahon, the U.S. secretary of education and former leader of the World Wrestling Federation, itself home to many wrestlers from many other countries. Turn to page 58 to read our story on the vanishing of international students.

Someone who takes great pleasure in international lands is adventure photographer Scott Rinckenberger. His amazing travels and photos take us from Peru to Norway and back home to Washington. See the Gallery on page 62.

Close your eyes now, and travel to the Puget Sound. Open your mouth, and taste one of the sea’s finest delicacies—mussels from Taylor Shellfish Farms. Our Farm to Table feature (pg. 26) looks into the operations of the fifth-generation seafood farmers and offers recipes that you’ll have to make straight away.

If you really want to see something aspirational and inspirational, turn to our Home + Design feature on page 32. Ogle this cool 600-squarefoot prefab eco-cabin gently placed in a wooded area on Whidbey Island. I want one, too!

For more international travel, point your vehicle toward Poulsbo on the Kitsap Peninsula and our Trip Planner on page 78. This Norwegianinspired harbor town is just what you need for a getaway in the winter. Cozy digs and great food with a Scandinavian influence may just take you away, if only for a weekend.

Finally celebrate Talking Cedar distillery and brewery, the first tribal-owned legal distillery in the United States. In 2018, The Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation helped overturn a nearly 200-year ban on distilling spirits on tribal lands. The result is a symbol of what can be and some amazing craft beer and distilled spirits. Read their story on page 20. Cheers!

GIFT

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS

Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here!

www.1889mag.com/ in-focus

WASHINGTON

SHOP LOCAL

1889 Washington’s Magazine celebrates all things Washington, from its incredible destinations and colorful personalities to its rich history and local food and drink. Gift a subscription to family and friends this holiday season, and share the state you love!

www.1889mag.com/gi

Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find outdoor gear, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good.

www.1889mag.com/shop

photo by Lisa Mize

SAY WA? 14

FOOD + DRINK 20

FARM TO TABLE 26

HOME + DESIGN 32

MIND + BODY 42

A small prefab finds harmony in the woods of Whidbey Island.

Andrew Pogue

Rooted in world-class wine and rich in local character, Woodinville is more than a getaway; it’s a gathering place. Escape to The SOMM Hotel for a winter retreat where modern elegance meets relaxed warmth. Indulge in inspired dishes at Bin 47, delight in seasonal flavors and handcrafted cocktails atop The Shed with sweeping views of Mt. Rainier, and renew your spirit at Vin de Spa. Whether you’re planning an intimate gathering, a spontaneous escape, or simply seeking a place to unwind, The SOMM Hotel offers an unexpected expression of winter: sophisticated, soulful, and unmistakably Woodinville.

ter, with soulful, Woodinville.

Scan the QR Code to Discover The

Tidbits + To-dos

written by Lauren Kramer

Great Big Game Show

Guests are the stars of the show in the Great Big Game Show, a new interactive entertainment venue in Seattle Southside. When they step onto the set, guests become part of a live game show complete with flashing lights, digital scoreboards and buzzers. Teams compete in challenges that blend trivia, puzzles and physical games in a show that’s perfect for celebrations, team building or just a quirky night out.

www.greatbiggameshow.com/seattle

Marrow & Tallow Skin Care

If your skin needs some love, try the balms by Marrow & Tallow, a tallow-based skin care company founded by rodeo wrangler Jordan Barnes. His products combine rendered tallow and bone marrow with cold-pressed jojoba oil, plant extracts and essential oils. The nourishing range of skin care is a regenerative alternative to the chemicals, seed oils and preservatives prevalent in conventional skin care products.

www.marrowandtallow.com

Makers Market + Light Art in Port Angeles

The Esther Webster Gallery in Port Angeles is hosting a Makers Market through December 14, where visitors can shop for locally made artisan gifts including art prints, jewelry, ornaments, home decor and body care products. Entrance is free, and the market is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursdays through Sundays, and until 8 p.m. Fridays. After shopping, check out the Nature After Dark Light Art Experience in Webster’s Woods. The 5-acre forested parkland will be illuminated with light and color through January 4, and admission is free.

www.pafac.org

Dan Sullivan/Port Angeles Fine Arts Center

Great Big Game Show

Argosy Christmas Ship Festival

The Argosy Christmas Ship Festival has been a tradition since 1949! The cruise ship is decorated with lights and hosts a performing choir as it sails to waterfront communities in the Puget Sound through December 23 There are two ninety-minute cruise ships to choose from— one geared to families and the other for adults only.

www.argosycruises.com

San Juan Soapery

San Juan Soapery’s new storefront in Friday Harbor is the vision of Savannah Brandt, whose collection includes handmade, nontoxic artisan soaps, bath bombs and lotions crafted on San Juan Island. The sustainable, eco-friendly products are vegan and made in small batches, and the collection includes solid shampoo bars—perfect for traveling light.

www.sanjuansoapery.com

Senske Holiday Light Show

At the Senske Holiday Light Show in Kennewick, more than 500,000 synchronized lights are set to festive music every night in December from 5 p.m. to midnight. At this annual event, guests walk or drive through the sparkling display. Admission is free, with donations encouraged to support local nonprofit Second Harvest. www.senske.com/holiday-lights/annual-light-show

Argosy Cruises/Visit Sea le

The 25 Best Washington ALBUMS OF 2025

written by Ben Salmon | illustration by Cody Muir

FROM BELLINGHAM to Yakima County, Olympia to Spokane and, of course, the world-class music scene in Seattle, musicians from Washington created incredible sounds in 2025. Here are the twenty-five best albums released by artists across the state this year.

Coral Grief Air Between Us

If Seattle’s overcast skies had a house band, it might be Coral Grief. The trio found its footing while stuck at home during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic, then released two very promising EPs in 2021 and 2023. Air Between Us delivers on that promise, showcasing the band’s entrancing dream-pop, which is built from steady rhythms, dulcet melodies and diaphanous shoegaze haze. Coral Grief’s sound is sometimes gray, a little chilly and irresistibly beautiful—just like their hometown.

Brittany Davis Black Thunder

It is tempting to tell you about the sound of Brittany Davis’ brilliant album Black Thunder, but you can go listen to it yourself. So let’s focus on how it was made: Davis, bassist Evan Flory-Barnes and drummer D’Vonne Lewis barely knew each other before coming together in the studio and improvising for two days. The result is a lightning bolt of hypnotic, organic, deeply jazz that’s so alive, you’ll feel like you can reach out and shake its hand. So that’s how it sounds, actually. Did I mention the players barely knew each other before recording? Stunning.

Deep Sea Diver Billboard Heart

Over the past dozen years, Jessica Dobson has grown Deep Sea Diver into one of the true pillars of Seattle’s indie rock scene—which is saying something, given the number of great bands that happen in the city. But Dobson and her crew tower over most of ’em, thanks to her inventive songwriting and the sheer power of her band, which never seems to need recharging. The songs

on their fourth album, Billboard Heart, are sturdy, dynamic and hookier than a well-stocked tacklebox.

Don Dishes Teal

Most of the music Don Dishes has released over the past year has been about his beloved Seattle Mariners, who had a great season that ended in heartbreaking fashion. (Tridents up!) But the Kent MC’s finest hour—of 2025, at least—is Teal, a fourteen-track collection of head-nodding hip-hop that showcases Dishes’ buoyant beats and melodic flow—as well as his interests beyond baseball. (Song titles include “Nirvana” and “Angry Nerd” and “Tom Brokaw” … of course!) Find it only at www.dondishes.bandcamp.com

Emi Pop

No Te Voy a Extrañar

Emi Pop is a Seattlebased Puerto Rican artist with a proven recipe for fun times: Mix together Riot Grrrl punk, ’60s-style surf-pop, earworm melodies and lyrics en español, shake it all up like a can of carbonated pop, then crack it open and let it spray all over a guitar pedal board built for maximum distortion. On No Te Voy a Extrañar, Emi Pop sounds a little bit like the Ramones and

Brittany Davis | Black Thunder

Lance Mercer

The Go-Go’s if they’d come up in San Juan rather than mainland America, and they sound a lot like the future. Find it only at www.emipop.bandcamp.com

Jenner Fox

Anything

Jenner Fox is the son of two river rafting guides, and he used to spend a lot of time riding rivers around the world as a guide himself. These days, though, he’s making waves with his music. The Bellingham-based singer-songwriter is a meticulous crafter of gentle folk songs that are melodically generous, efficient in their storytelling and overflowing with feeling. On Anything, he rolls out nine delightful tunes about life and loss that feel like they were written just for you.

Fugitive Bubble

What Will Happen If We Stop?

Let’s take a moment to appreciate the continued vibrance of Olympia’s music scene, where people can still be weird (and weird together in bands) in a world that is increasingly less tolerant of weirdness. Related: Fugitive Bubble is a trio from the capital city that makes zigzagging art-punk

with a political bent, and it’s pedal to the metal. On What Will Happen If We Stop?, they sound like a band that wants to play hardcore, but their great ideas and varied interests and catchy melodies keep getting in the way. That’s a good thing!

The Onlies You Climb the Mountain

The Onlies are four old friends who use string-band instruments—fiddle, banjo, mandolin, guitar—to play bluegrass and oldtime music. They’re skilled pickers, of course, but that’s not why You Climb the Mountain is on this list. It’s here because the Seattle-based band injects these original and traditional songs with a warmth, a richness and a sort of dynamic melodicism that’s uncommon in this particular corner of the musical universe. That’s not to say there’s not a lot of great bluegrass out there, because there is. Rarely, though, does it feel quite this alive.

Timeworm

Interplanetary Flamingo Park Reunion

A bunch of good albums came out of Spokane this year, so be sure to check out that nearby “fifteen more” list for more from the east side of the state. Whether Timeworm made the best of the bunch is up to you, but here’s why they’re worth highlighting: Interplanetary Flamingo Park Reunion is a likeable pack o’ jams that seems to get better the more you listen. Ostensibly “just” a funky rock band, Timeworm’s interest in and incorporation of unexpected elements—indie psych, orchestral pop, modern soul—reveals itself over time, making their album a gift that keeps giving.

real twang back to mainstream country music, where arena-pop in a cowboy hat has ruled the charts in recent years. On his second album, Ain’t in It for My Health, Top convincingly delivers fifteen real-deal honky-tonkers that recall the ’90s heyday of country giants like Alan Jackson and George Strait.

15 MORE ALBUMS WORTH HEARING

Acapulco Lips | Now

Brotha Nature | A Deeper Purple … Tha Lilac City Joint.

Brandi Carlile | Returning To Myself

The Crabs | Years at the Unknown Datura | Songs from a Dark House

Dead Bars | All Dead Bars Go To Heaven

Karli Fairbanks | Stay Radiant

Stephanie Anne Johnson | Sing, Baby!

Kelsey Mines | Everything Sacred, Nothing Serious

Tomo Nakayama | Ocean

Zach Top Ain’t in It for My Health

One of the biggest success stories in music over

the past couple of years—not just in Washington, but anywhere, in any genre—is the rapid rise of Zach Top as a bona fide country star. Raised on the family farm in Sunnyside, the mustachioed singer-songwriter is bringing

Kassa Overall | Cream

Racyne Parker | Will You Go With Me?

Pigeon Pit | Crazy Arms

Sea Lemon | Diving for a Prize

Suzzallo | The Quiet Year

The Onlies | You Climb the Mountain

Emi Pop | No Te Voy a Extrañar

Courtesy of Emi Pop

Courtesy of The Onlies

Bibliophile

Growing Up Grunge

Sea le native’s debut novel captures the energy of Gen X coming of age in a city on the brink of change

interview by Cathy Carroll

THE SYLVAN HOTEL: a Sea le Story brings 1990s Sea le vividly to life in this Gen X coming of age story. At The Sylvan, a small luxury hotel in Capitol Hill, rock stars slip by in low-lit spaces, and the switchboard crackles with drama. Joann’s working at reception, but not planning to stay long— she’s “just paying bills” while figuring out a career. The hotel world draws her in, however, with love a airs, late-night confessions and friendships forged in quiet spaces between phone calls and cigare e breaks, while everyone’s trying to get somewhere else. Hilarity, joy and angst ensue as the ’90s roll forward, sweeping all the Sylvans away as they navigate the swing shi —and the bi ersweet adventure of growing up. We spoke with author Frannie James about her love le er to the people and places that shape us, whether we mean to stay or not.

What inspired you to revisit 1990s Sea le, and what did you hope to capture about Gen X coming of age in that moment?

First, I’ve always liked the coming-of-age genre—there’s such a good, brutal honesty to it. And coming of age in a city that’s also coming of age adds an interesting parallel—similar to my experience in ’90s Sea le—a personally epic “crossroads” that spanned from about 1991 to 1993. At that time, the Emerald City was like a magical incubator, overflowing with creativity and community. Yes, there were drugs; yes, we were still coming out of an economic slump.

How did the main character, Joann, take shape for you, and how much of her story draws on your own experiences in that world?

But somehow, the “magic” held its own during this wonderful, albeit fleeting, moment. Fast-forward to 2017, and I noticed that ’90s Sea le continued to be portrayed through a pre y narrow lens. But if it’s “Sea le’s most storied era,” shouldn’t there be more kinds of stories about it?

Plus, Gen X kids were interesting. We grew up without tech, then watched it unfold. And we were the first generation to bear witness to a new business model: shareholder value as prioritized over workers. Therefore, a lot of Gen Xers “dared” to hit the pause bu on when it came to traditional career paths. But even if you wanted a corporate gig, entry-level positions weren’t necessarily available due to the economic climate.

Ultimately, I don’t believe Gen X lacked work ethic. Rather, they were truth seekers who eventually became the most entrepreneurial generation.

A collage of people and experiences informed the writing in The Sylvan Hotel starting with me! For example, I grew up across from Genesee Park, was 20-something in ’90s Sea le and worked for two hotels during that era. Like Joann, I was also brought up in a working-class household. What’s key is that the city was more a ordable then. My parents in fact, owned their house outright—but (like Joann’s parents) they were determined to send me and my siblings to Catholic schools, which made for a lot of selfinflicted hardship. Also, we a ended school in the North End, but our “real life” was in the South End (similar to Joann). Later, I was interested in an advertising career but needed to pay rent while I figured things out (same as Joann). And, of course, I loved early ’90s Sea le. It was just a more “down-home” place— but one charged with possibility, art, connection. Most of all, it was still accessible and manageable for workingclass folks. Sounds almost mythical, right? Like a grungy Camelot (haha)!

In 1991, Nirvana had catapulted us into global fame, tech was rumbling, and espresso was brewing. We were beautifully “on the brink” so to speak … but it couldn’t last forever. And as we saw with Joann, sometimes, it’s just hard to say goodbye.

Frannie James portrays 1990s Sea le co eehouse culture, its restless, creative vibe and the art of growing up on your own terms in her debut novel The Sylvan Hotel: a Sea le Story

Courtesy of Frannie James

FOR 184 YEARS, a federal law told Native nations they could not distill spirits on their own land. It was one of those archaic rules that linger far longer than they should have. e Confederated Tribes of the Chehalis Reservation decided that was unacceptable. ey pressed Congress to repeal it, and in 2018 the ban was overturned and signed into law. at victory was not just about spirits. It was about sovereignty, justice and freedom.

Talking Cedar was born from that victory. It is a 35,000-square-foot brewery, distillery and restaurant on Chehalis tribal land in Washington. It is the first tribally owned, legally operated distillery in the United States, both a symbol and a working example of what happens when determination meets craft.

Some breweries start with a recipe— Talking Cedar started with a revolution written and photographed by Jackie Dodd Beervana

Talking Cedar Talks Back

and tribal businesses, turning out limited kegs that showcase the heritage and history of the land.

TALKING CEDAR

19770 SARGENT ROAD SW ROCHESTER

www.talkingcedar.com

As the legacy grows, the brewery’s offerings expand beyond a core lineup that includes pilsner, juicy IPA, Pacific Northwest IPA and amber. Next year, the team plans to add a small pilot system to complement the 60-barrel brewhouse, focusing on one-off, small-batch beers that spotlight local and Native ingredients. e goal is to collaborate with nearby craft breweries

Talking Cedar welcomed master distiller Matt Hofmann as general manager earlier this year. Known for pioneering American single malt and helping define Pacific Northwest whiskey as a co-founder of Westland Distillery, Hofmann brings a rare mix of innovation, deep category knowledge and respect for place. His leadership connects the brewery and distillery, guiding Talking Cedar into a new era of craft rooted in both heritage and experimentation. is fall, the story extended from the brewhouse to the kitchen with the arrival of executive chef Richard Jensen, who brings decades of culinary experience and a deep sense of local pride to the table.

Born and raised in Washington, Jensen started in a dish pit and worked through some of the country’s finest kitchens, including Aqua with Michael Mina, Redwood Park with George Morrone and Meadowood Napa Valley, where he worked on a three-Michelin-star team. He trained under a German master

On Chehalis land, Talking Cedar is the first tribalowned, legally operated distillery in the United States.

chef, honing classical skills before moving into contemporary cuisine that celebrates both flavor and story.

His leadership style is built on mentorship and collaboration. “A kitchen is only as strong as its team,” he said, and it shows. The new Talking Cedar menu reflects that spirit of unity: seasonal, regionally inspired and rooted in tribal values while respecting the patrons who come in for comforting pub food.

The refreshed lineup keeps brewpub favorites you would expect, like burgers, wings and fish and chips, with flawless execution worth the drive to Grand Mound. It also layers in ingredients that honor the land and the seasons, the way the tribe always has. Think whole wild-caught Chinook salmon filleted in-house, locally grown huckleberry turned into vinaigrette, blueberries from the Chehalis tribe’s farm and roasted acorn squash. It’s food that tells a story, balancing the familiar with the Indigenous, and the modern with the traditional.

It is not a departure from what Talking Cedar has always been—it’s an evolution. The brewery and distillery were built to celebrate what the Pacific Northwest has to offer, brewing every beer with pure aquifer water drawn from beneath tribal land and sending spent grain to local farms as cattle feed. The menu now mirrors that same circle of respect, sustainability and regional pride.

With only a few years under its belt, the brewery is stacking wins. Chehalis Light, a Double Gold award-winning light lager, is brewed here in the Pacific Northwest at a time when many legacy labels are brewed elsewhere or no longer in production. It is proof that heritage and craftsmanship can coexist with an easy, crushable beer.

Talking Cedar is more than a brewery. It is proof that craft can be cultural reclamation. It is a reminder that good food, good beer and good spirits can change history and taste damn good doing it. So, yes, they fought the law. But the law never stood a chance.

ABOVE Executive chef Richard Jensen holds plates of his new menu items. AT RIGHT, FROM TOP A pint of Talking Cedar pilsner is poured at the pub. Find dishes such as a locally sourced, smoked pork chop with blueberry jus made with the tribe’s own blueberries at Talking Cedar’s restaurant.

Gastronomy

Grace Harbor Farms

written by Lauren Kramer

IT TAKES just one sip of the cow and goat milk at Grace Harbor Farms in Custer to know immediately that all milk is not created equal. The second-generation, familyowned artisan creamery produces cow milk, goat milk, yogurt, kefir and cultured buttermilk on a picturesque farm off Birch Bay Lynden Road. That small-batch production at an independent dairy makes a world of difference to the taste.

“Our milk contains between 4.2 and 4.5 percent butterfat, a full percentage more than what you buy in the store,” said David Lukens, who took over the creamery from his parents in 2020. While cow milk is 90 percent of his sales and goat milk just 10 percent, he’s quickly become the largest supplier of goat milk in the state.

Lukens grew up milking cows and has a deep love and respect for the animals whose milk he pasteurizes. On a sunny October morning, he made his twice-weekly drive to Beanblossom Acres, the goat farm that supplies his goat milk, petting the friendlier members of the ninety-six-strong herd as the morning milking was finishing up. The herd will grow to 150 by spring next year, and with grocers including Whole Foods requesting more of Grace Harbor’s products on their shelves, Lukens knows every gallon is precious.

His products include deliciously rich cow’s milk yogurt in plain, vanilla, honey and lemon flavors, goat kefir and yogurt, buttermilk, cow milk and goat milk. Lukens just launched an eggnog for the Christmas season and is experimenting with a soft, creamy goat milk cheese.

“I wish more people could actually see the animals and the creamery and we could talk about how all milk is not the same,” said Lukens. Grace Harbor’s milk is just vat pasteurized, to eliminate unwanted bacteria. It’s not homogenized or separated, which makes a huge difference to the taste of the end product and its digestibility.

“Most people are so used to drinking skim milk with vitamin D added, a highly processed food,” he noted. “Many of our customers thought they were lactose intolerant until they tried our milk, and realized they’re not!”

“We’re the dairy equivalent of a microbrewer, and we’re proud to be producing creamy, nutrient-dense dairy products that taste nothing like the watery skim milk most Washingtonians know.”

2347 BIRCH BAY LYNDEN ROAD CUSTER

www.graceharborfarms.com

CRAVINGS

MOZZARELLA

Whether you’re a hobby pizzamaker or just love a good old grilled cheese, Ferndale Farmstead’s mozzarella is the answer. Available as a hard cheese at retail outlets or shredded (by the case, for pickup in Ferndale), this mozz is free of animal-based rennet and a perfect ingredient for your favorite cheese-based dishes.

2645 ALDERGROVE ROAD FERNDALE www.ferndalefarmstead.com

CIDER

Orcas Isle Cider in the San Juans boasts the only West Coast tasting room that overlooks a beaver lodge. Try their cider in flavors of apple pear, golden russet and orchard cider blend, beverages with minimal processing and maximum flavor.

4797 ORCAS ROAD EASTSOUND www.orcasislecider.com

SMOKED FISH

If you love smoked fish, Tokeland’s Nelson Crab should be on your list. The store, located just steps from Willapa Bay, has a generous assortment of smoked fish, including candied and spicy salmon, smoked sablefish and smoked oysters.

1 DOCK ST. TOKELAND www.facebook.com/NelsonCrabInc

CRAFT BEVERAGES

Willapa Brewing Company in South Bend is a great neighborhood nanobrewery serving an assortment of innovative beers, mead, cider and pizza. Try the raspberry blonde ale, the “pickle me sour” ale or the peanut butter stout, and don’t leave without a sample of their rotating cider selection.

405 MINNESOTA AVE. SOUTH BEND www.willapabrewingco.com

ABOVE Grace Harbor Farms in Custer is becoming one of the largest producers of goat milk in Washington. AT RIGHT Old-school bottling of cow milk and goat milk on the farm.

Photos, from top:

Lauren Kramer, Grace Harbor Farms

Find it all in one place.

BEST PLACES FOR BURGERS

TMACS

In Walla Walla, TMACS’ Greek lamb burger, with crumbled feta and tzatziki olive tapenade, is a mouthwatering meal. Chef Tom Maccarone’s wagyu burger, with bacon, smoked provolone, cremini mushrooms, garlic aioli and caramelized onions, makes ordering a tough choice.

80 N. COLVILLE ST. WALLA WALLA www.tmacsww.com

SHARPS ROASTHOUSE

If you think you can handle a 2.2-pound burger, where a sourdough brioche bun contains two beef patties, lettuce, tomato, dills, candied bacon, cheddar cheese, a grilled double sandwich, sauce and two fried eggs, head to Sharps RoastHouse in SeaTac. Arrive extremely hungry, because if you can consume all that food in five minutes or less, this monster burger is free of charge, and you make it into the Monster Hall of Fame.

18427 INTERNATIONAL BLVD. SEATAC www.sharpsroasthouse.com

JUICY J’S SMOKED BURGERS

Don’t give up on veggie burgers—at least, not until you’ve tried Juicy J’s in Poulsbo, where plant-based burgers are nothing short of an obsession. In its allergy-friendly, cruelty-free kitchen, this restaurant specializes in house-smoked patties, and a bacon cheeseburger comes with much lower cholesterol and a guilt-free conscience.

18779 ANDERSON PARKWAY, SUITE 100 POULSBO www.smokedburgers.com

URBAN TAPRI

Another vegan classic is available at SeaTac’s Urban Tapri, where vegetarian burgers contain crispy spiced potato cutlets, hakka noodle patties and grilled paneer tucked into soft, buttery buns. Pair it with a creamy mango lassi, rose milk or tangy masala chaas for the full experience.

16006 B, PACIFIC HIGHWAY S. SEATAC

www.urbantapri.com

Dining

Salt Hotel & Pub

written by Lauren Kramer

Baja-style fish tacos at Salt Pub in coastal Ilwaco.

SALT HOTEL & PUB was a derelict building on the Ilwaco marina, vacant for four years when Jules Orr and Laila Brown first stumbled across it in 2015. Determined to infuse new life into it, they repaired, updated and transformed it into a friendly, modest seaside eatery and twenty-one-room hotel with a youthful, surfer vibe.

We stopped by on a picture-perfect Saturday in late September, when the monthly craft market that runs spring through fall was making its final appearance of the season. Vendors lined the boardwalk selling soaps, candles, decorative cutting boards and home-baked goods, and the half-hour wait for a table at Salt gave us time to explore the market and soak in Ilwaco’s relaxed, beachy atmosphere.

We were seated on the patio, grateful for sunshine, the shade of large umbrellas and a view of the marina. Families strolled along the boardwalk, the calls of seagulls filled the air and servers were busily delivering oyster shooters, house-smoked tuna and clam chowder to diners nearby.

Cocktail Card

recipe courtesy of Erik Tostenrude, Colchuck’s / LEAVENWORTH

Chamoy Spritz

• 3 ounces cava

“It’s either too busy or too quiet,” confided co-owner Orr, who oversees maintenance while Brown manages staff and supplies. “That’s the curse of the coast!”

Service at Salt was fast and friendly, and the menu was filled with seaside comfort food: salads with wild salmon, crispy rockfish tacos with corn salsa and ginger lime slaw, smoked salmon macaroni and bacon cheeseburgers dripping with the restaurant’s secret sauce.

The name “Salt” refers to a “salt-of-the-earth” eatery, and true to its name, Salt is unpretentious, warm and delivers precisely what it promises: great comfort food in a small, seaside town. Order a cold drink and a plate of fried cod with thick, handcut fries. When it arrives, you’ll agree that from this vantage point, the world seems a pretty good place.

147 HOWERTON AVE. ILWACO www.salt-hotel.com

• 2 ounces tamarindinfused Aperol

• 1/2 ounce mango purée

• 1 ounce soda water

• Dehydrated orange slice, for garnish

• Chamoy, for garnish

Layer cava, Aperol, mango purée and soda water in a wine glass. Garnish with a dehydrated orange slice dipped in chamoy.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Once rundown, Salt Hotel & Pub came from the imagination of Jules Orr and Laila Brown in 2015. Marina views pair well with a smoked salmon burger at Salt Pub.

Ty & Chey Visual Media/Salt Hotel & Pub

Melissa Righero/Salt Hotel & Pub

Photo: Kyle Martin

Ty & Chey Visual

Farm to Table

Mussel Memories

The Taylor Shellfish team shares how healthy mussels directly reflect healthy water

written by Corinne Whiting

MOST SEAFOOD AFICIONADOS covet the flavors of Pacific Northwest mussels, but not everyone knows the process of harvesting these local treasures. Taylor Shellfish mussel farm director Gordon King has been growing these products for more than forty years, and says he’s still proud of shellfish aquaculture. He explains that Taylor has been growing mussels in the Puget Sound since the early 1990s, and claims they could move a farm out within one to two days. “Within a year you would not be able to identify where the farm had been,” he said. “Our mussel farm has produced tens of millions of pounds of beautiful, healthy food in those three decades, which we have sold onto wholesalers, distributors, retailers and restaurants.”

Taylor’s smallest farm in Totten Inlet spans 2 acres, and each year they sell 360,000 pounds of mussels from it. King deems this feat “unbelievable productivity compared to most other types of farming.”

“The production of those mussels has provided a decent living to all the people involved through the chain from hatchery to consumption,” King said, “and with continued care for our waters, this work can sustain livelihoods for generations to come.”

Taylor Shellfish Farms is a fifth-generation, family-run company that started in the late 1800s. Jada Brown, marketing manager for Taylor and Ekone Tinned Seafood, also happens to be a member of the fifth generation of the Taylor family. What began as a small-scale Olympia oyster farming company, launched by her greatgreat-grandfather, has evolved into the largest shellfish producer in the United States.

Since Totten Inlet, where Taylor’s mussels are grown, offers pristine, cold, plankton-rich water, the mussels gain their signature flavor, described by Brown as “plump, meaty and naturally sweet

Launched four generations ago in Olympia, Taylor Shellfish Farms is now a tide-to-table empire of mussels, harvested five days a week.

Taylor Shellfish Farms

Mussels grow on lines suspended from floating rafts in Totten Inlet.

Taylor Shellfish Farms

with a clean, briny and umami finish.” She believes the inlet’s tidal exchange and depth create ideal growing conditions, which you can truly taste in their products.

Today Taylor Shellfish is still family-owned and deeply rooted in sustainable aquaculture. “We manage everything tideto-table: hatcheries, nurseries, farms, processing, distributors and restaurants,” Brown said.

Over the years, their company has expanded its product mix to include not only oysters but also Manila clams, Totten Inlet mussels and geoduck. They also have their own smokehouse and cannery for a ready-to-eat, tinned line of seafood under Ekone Tinned Seafood (whose website offers a store locator for where to pick up these tasty goods).

Brown breaks down the harvesting process, which begins with mussels growing on long ropes that hang from floating rafts in nutrient-rich waters. During roughly a year, they

naturally attach, grow and feed by filtering plankton from the sea. Once they reach market size, the ropes are lifted from the water, and the clusters are stripped, brought to the processing facility, cleaned and sorted for packing. Harvesting typically happens year-round, though growth rates and timing can shift slightly with changes in water temperature and plankton bloom cycles. “Late spring through early fall are generally the most active harvest months as the mussels are at their absolute peak!” she said. At Taylor, they harvest five days a week, and the mussels are delivered to the processing plant Sunday through Thursday.

Of course this work comes along with its own set of challenges, too. “Mussels thrive in dynamic environments, which means farmers work through wind, weather and tides to maintain rafts and monitor gear,” Brown explained. “Storms, biofouling (like seaweed or barnacles on ropes) and fluctuating water temperatures can all affect growth and yields.”

Yet one of the biggest rewards comes from seeing how healthy mussels are a direct reflection of healthy water. Brown gets a real sense of pride from growing a product that improves the ecosystem. “Mussel farming stands out as one of the most environmentally sustainable forms of food production,” she said. “Unlike many land-based agriculture, mussels require no fertilizers, pesticides or feed inputs to grow. They filter nutrients directly from the water column, improving water quality and supporting healthy marine ecosystems. With a low carbon footprint, minimal habitat disruption and no need for external feed, mussel farming represents a model for regenerative food production in the face of climate change challenges.”

Taylor’s mussels now can be enjoyed far and wide—like at their oyster bars, of which there are three in the Seattle area and one in Bow.

One of Brown’s favorite ways to enjoy mussels comes simply steamed in a red curry broth, alongside toasted, crusty sourdough bread. And for diehard loyalists like King, it seems that savoring this item never grows tiresome. “Of course our mussels are unique, but then most seafood is delicious and a great, healthy option when kept fresh and in good condition!” he said. “I have eaten mussels from all over the world and ours are equal to the best. After forty years growing mussels, I still enjoy eating them.”

“Mussels thrive in dynamic environments, which means farmers work through wind, weather and tides to maintain rafts and monitor gear. Storms, biofouling (like seaweed or barnacles on ropes) and fluctuating water temperatures can all affect growth and yields.”

— Jada Brown, Taylor Shellfish Farms marketing manager

Taylor Shellfish mussel farm director Gordon King lifts a line covered in growing mussels out of the water.

Taylor Shellfish Farms

Mussel-ing Through Winter Washington Recipes

Penn Cove Mussels with Coconut Broth

Brimmer & Heeltap / SEATTLE

John Pool

SERVES 6

FOR COCONUT BROTH

• 8 ounces yellow onion, diced

• 8 ounces carrot, diced

• 8 ounces celery, diced

• 4 ounces ginger, sliced

• 2 tablespoons garlic, minced

• 3 bay leaves

• 1 cup white wine

• 24 ounces coconut milk

• 19 ounces coconut cream

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 tablespoon salt

FOR MUSSELS

• 3 pounds Penn Cove mussels

TO SERVE

• 6 ounces butter

• 4 ounces asparagus (cut in ¼-inch spears)

• 4 ounces Yukon gold potatoes (diced ¼-inch cubes)

• 4 ounces breakfast radish (leave whole)

• 4 ounces fennel (diced ¼ inch)

• 4 ounces pea vines

• Salt and pepper, to taste

FOR COCONUT BROTH

Sauté onion, carrot, celery, ginger and garlic for 10 minutes in a medium heavy pot. Add bay leaves, and deglaze with

white wine. After wine has evaporated, add coconut milk and cream. Cook on medium heat for 30 minutes. Turn off heat, and let sit for 20 minutes.

Once broth has set, season with lemon juice and salt. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, and cool.

FOR MUSSELS

Clean mussels by running under cold water, and remove mussel beards (growth on outside of shell).

Bring 8 quarts of water to a boil, and add mussels to cook. Cook mussels until shells open (approximately 8 minutes). Drain mussels, and cool in ice bath.

Once mussels are chilled, pick mussels out of the shells, and discard shells. Set aside mussels to build the dish.

TO SERVE

Heat the coconut broth. Once steaming hot, taste and adjust seasoning as needed with lemon juice and salt.

In a medium pot, bring butter and 4 cups of water to a simmer, and add asparagus, potatoes, radish, fennel and mussels. Cook for 6 minutes.

Remove cooked mussels and vegetables from butter and water mixture, and divide evenly between 6 shallow serving bowls (centered in middle of bowl).

Quickly add pea vines to butter and water mixture, and cook for 30 seconds. Garnish mussels and vegetables with pea vines, and season with salt and fresh-cracked pepper. To finish and serve, evenly pour 6 ounces of coconut broth around vegetables and mussels in each bowl while steaming hot.

Penn Cove Mussels

Ben Paris, The State Hotel / SEATTLE

Jacy Thomson

SERVES 1-2

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 4 cherry tomatoes, halved

• 8 ounces Penn Cove mussels, cleaned and debearded

• ½ tablespoon minced garlic

• Pinch of salt

• 3½ ounces dry white wine

• 3 ounces vegetable stock

• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

• ½ teaspoon Aleppo pepper

• 1 tablespoon harissa spice

• 2 knobs of butter

• 1½ grams shaved fennel

• Splash of fresh lemon juice (about one wedge)

• Chopped chives, for garnish

• Slice of miche bread, to serve

Heat a saucepan over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the olive oil, cherry tomatoes, mussels, garlic and a pinch of salt. Toss lightly as the ingredients begin to sweat and release their aromas. Pour in the white wine, and carefully flambé to cook off the alcohol. Once the flames subside, add the vegetable stock, and stir in the red pepper flakes, Aleppo pepper and harissa spice. Cover with a lid, and let the mussels steam for 3-4 minutes, or until all have opened. Remove the lid, add the butter and shaved fennel, and gently stir to combine. Finish with a splash of fresh lemon juice. To serve, ladle the mussels and broth into a large bowl. Garnish with chopped chives and a slice of miche bread for soaking up the rich, spiced broth.

Chef’s note: Serve immediately with chilled white wine for a perfect taste of Seattle’s coast.

Penn Cove Mussels.

Penn Cove Mussels with Coconut Broth. The State Hotel

Brimmer & Heeltap

Pumpkin Spice

Steamed Mussels

Taylor Shellfish Farms / SHELTON, BOW, SEATTLE

Kourtney Paranteau

SERVES 4

• 2 tablespoons unsalted bu er

• 2 cloves garlic, grated

• 1 shallot, chopped into thin rings

• 4 pounds Taylor Shellfish mussels, cleaned and debearded

• 2-3 cups dry white wine (such as muscadet)

• 1 cup pumpkin purée (be careful not to grab pumpkin pie filling!)

• ½ cup coconut milk

• 2 tablespoons red curry

• 6 sprigs cilantro, picked

• 2 green onions, finely chopped

• 2 teaspoons flake salt

In a Dutch oven, heat bu er over medium heat. Add garlic and shallot, and cook until translucent and fragrant (about 4 minutes).

Add mussels, and pour the white wine over the shellfish.

Cover the pot for 5 minutes, and allow the mussels to pop open.

A er that time has passed, open the lid, and stir the mussels in the wine using a wooden spoon. Using kitchen tongs, pluck all of the mussels that have opened, and place them in a large bowl. Stir, and allow the remaining mussels to cook for an additional 2 minutes to allow any of the remaining mussels to yawn. Discard any mussels that refuse to open.

Lower the heat to medium-low. Whisk the pumpkin purée, coconut milk and curry into the broth, and simmer for 5 minutes.

Return the mussels to the pot, remove from heat, ladle them into 4 bowls and finish with cilantro, green onion and flake salt.

Pumpkin Spice Steamed Mussels.

Three modules—living/cooking, sleeping/study and outdoor dining— make up this prefab home on a forested

Home + Design

Inside Out

This off-grid, tiny prefab cabin is designed to adapt to any environment

written by Melissa Dalton

photography by Andrew Pogue

site on Whidbey Island.

AS AN ARCHITECT, Matt Wittman thinks a lot about how to get people out of the house. That’s always been the ethos behind the work of his Seattle firm, called Wittman Estes, co-founded with landscape designer Jody Estes in 2012. Their manifesto is that architecture and nature should be considered an “interconnected whole,” rather than separate entities. “We’re always trying to make buildings where you spend as much time outside as you spend inside,” said Wittman.

What does that look like in real life? In 2007, Wittman and Estes’ own Seattle property started as a small home on a deep city lot, to which they added a new studio outbuilding connected by an exterior courtyard and covered breezeways. More recently, they honed their approach on this forested Whidbey Island site, when the owner of a tech startup asked them for a customizable prototype for a small, off-grid cabin fused with nature.

Having designed many cabins for remote locales across Washington, from the San Juan Islands to the Cascade Mountains, Wittman had encountered the same problems over and over. Sometimes it was the difficulty of finding a construction firm that had experience with high-performance buildings, in order to achieve such metrics as Net Zero. Sometimes, the problem was the damage to the natural environment caused during the construction process. “The question became, ‘How do we build something high quality and low impact in an ecologically sensitive area?’” said Wittman. Their solution is called the Puzzle Prefab.

Pull It Apart

The designers started by breaking up the home into three modules: living/cooking, sleeping/study and outdoor dining. Each module is assigned to its own container and then connected by covered walkways and outdoor spaces. Modules are kept 12 feet wide, so as to be easily transported on the back of a truck, and can be configured in “an infinite number of ways,” said Wittman. “We wanted to come up with a living solution that could be flexible, customized through its configuration and adaptable to any site.”

Prefab

Prefabricated construction means the home is built in a factory, trucked to the location and craned into place once the site has been prepped for utilities and a foundation. This allows for precision and efficiency, says builder Sparrow Woodworks of Indianola, and less site disruption, as the modules are delivered 95 percent complete. “That was a really exciting day,” said Wittman of the cabin’s installation. “One day we have nothing, and then by the end of the day, all the modules are there.”

Puzzling Out the Details

For such a small building—the interior is just 600 square feet—it has mighty green credentials. Triple-pane windows, advanced air sealing techniques and a robust insulation envelope allow it to exceed energy code standards, while a 4.1-kilowatt

solar array supplies energy needs. Rainwater is gathered in a 900-gallon tank before being purified by a custom filtration system and sent for potable use to the kitchen, bathroom, shower and dishwasher.

Even the building’s foundation treads lightly, as it uses zero concrete, reducing the carbon footprint by 77 percent, said the firm, who instead placed the home atop handset micro pin piles designed to reduce earth disturbance and conserve nearby tree roots. An integrated greenhouse provides household veggies and uses the thermal properties from the adjacent mechanical room.

Last but not least, all interior finishes and components, from the FSC-certified wood to the bioethanol fireplace, are Red List-free. (The Red List is a list of chemicals typically found in building materials, and deemed to be unhealthy for humans and the planet as compiled by the Living Building Challenge.)

ABOVE The connection to the outdoors plays right through the bedroom. FAR LEFT The small customizable prefab home on Whidbey Island.

“We wanted to come up with a living solution that could be flexible, customized through its configuration and adaptable to any site.”

— Matt Wittman, architect and Wittman Estes founding principal

Double Duty

As for combining inside and out, Wittman notes that the cabin has an equal amount of indoor and outdoor space. “When you pull the house apart like this, that was a way of creating inbetween spaces, and linking them with outdoor walkways and covered patios,” said Wittman. e covered walkways then do stealth double duty, with roofs that sport solar arrays and rainwater collection downspouts integrated into the steel structural columns of the canopies.

Inside, every room or corner has a direct view of nature, whether it’s the skylight over the bed for stargazing or the

frosted glass door in the shower that opens to the forest. The cozy factor, in things like the built-in couch that doubles as a pull-out bed, is balanced by the pull to go outside. Doing everyday activities, like taking a cup of coffee from the kitchen to the dining table, involves a short stroll through the woods.

It all works together to make it so the home lives much larger than its small footprint, something that Wittman noticed on his first walk-through when construction was complete. “I was surprised at how generous it could still feel because of the placement of the windows and the flow of movement between the modules, and the way that the materials are warm and welcoming,” he said. “It really doesn’t feel like a tiny home.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A cozy living area with a built-in couch that doubles as a pull-out bed, seamlessly blending comfort and functionality. A bathroom with a frosted glass door that opens to the forest, offering a serene connection to nature. A skylight above the bed invites stargazing and a peaceful night’s sleep surrounded by the outdoors. Outdoor spaces and connecting walkways create a harmonious blend of indoor and outdoor living.

DIY

Plywood and Hairpin Leg Desk

illustration by Ni Ma

NOWADAYS, the metal hairpin leg is a common enough sight on furniture, but it didn’t exist until 1941. That year, a craftsman named Henry P. Glass created a line of wrought iron outdoor furniture for an industrial designer named Russel Wright, using the distinct bent metal shape for the legs. The idea has since been extensively copied, becoming synonymous with the Mid-century aesthetic, and a favorite inspiration for DIY projects. Hairpin legs are pretty easy to work with, thanks to a metal plate welded to the top, and widely available, from Amazon and Etsy to www.hairpinlegs.com. To build a plywood and hairpin leg desk, follow this simple formula:

PREP THE WOOD

Cut two pieces of 3/4-inch plywood to size, about 2x5 feet, or your preferred dimensions. (Two pieces are used for stability and so the screws don’t come through the tabletop.)

Place one piece atop the other, and make sure they are exactly the same size and completely flush. Now, lift the piece you want for the top, and set it aside. With the remaining piece on your workbench

or floor, add glue to the top surface, and spread it in a thin, even layer. Next, lay your reserved top piece down (bottom side down!), taking care to press the pieces together. Line up the edges on all sides carefully. The wet glue can make the wood slippery and move out of position. Add wood clamps at all corners and in the middle of each edge. Let it dry overnight.

Sand and seal the wood to the desired finish. Add banding strips to the edges, if you don’t like the look of exposed plywood.

ADD THE LEGS

Place the desk top on the floor, so the underside faces the ceiling. Using 28-inch-tall hairpin legs, position one at each corner, allowing for about a 11/2- to 2-inch gap between the edge of the plate and the desktop edge. Mark the holes with a pencil, and predrill holes 1 inch down to prevent the wood from splitting. Line up the plate holes with the pilot holes, and attach using 11/4-inch screws.

VARIATIONS

Salvage the tabletop: This project is very customizable. Make it more unique by adding legs to a salvaged tabletop, whether it’s an old piece of wood, a section of butcher block or a piece of marble.

Add storage: It takes more woodworking skill to build boxes, but this variation is still accessible. Create a box with open cubbies for the desktop. Or, get really fancy and add a hinged section at the top for hidden storage.

Paint the legs: Order raw steel legs, and finish them any color desired. Start by cleaning the legs of grease with acetone or Windex, and let dry. Buff the metal with a scouring pad to prep it for paint. Apply a primer, then spray paint in your hue of choice, letting each coat dry before continuing with the next.

Get the Look of the Puzzle Prefab

e Northwest Wool row from online bedding purveyor Authenticity50 combines ethically raised wool from Oregon with quality manufacturing in a Pendleton Woolen Mills factory in Washington. Plus, the Rainier Red stripes will look good whether cozying up by the fire, or throwing it down for a summer picnic.

www.authenticity50.com

e LUNA vase from KINTO is so elegantly simple, its double-duty design comes as a surprise. Use the glass body for a small bouquet, or pop in the brass plate at the top to propagate a single stem. Available in two sizes and colors.

www.kinto-usa.com

e Herman Miller Eames Wire Base Low Table debuted in 1950, from famous design duo Charles and Ray Eames. As such, it has a practical metal base with a durable seven-layer laminate top, and it reaches 10 inches high, making it perfect for a plant, a bedside book or any tight space that just needs a little extra oomph.

www.dwr.com

Apparently not all towels are created equal, especially when it comes to the Supima Waffle Towel from Onsen, the brand behind the “internet’s favorite towel.”

Made of 100 percent, USA-grown cotton, this particular knit is raved about for being super absorbent, lightweight and quick to dry.

www.onsentowel.com

Battling into Tennis’s Elite

Colton Smith has youth and grit in his court

written by Lauren Kramer

AT 22, TENNIS PLAYER Colton Smith is in an enviable position. Ranked the top player in Washington, number 20 in the U.S. and number 139 worldwide, he’s moved up fast in the fi een years since he took up the sport at age 7. He’s now playing the top tennis stars whose performances he ogled on television as a young kid.

“There’s definitely a combination of nerves and excitement when you’re playing the big names you’ve seen on TV,” he confessed. “At times I’m starstruck, and it feels surreal. But at the end of the day, it’s a game, and if you lose a match, it’s not the end of the world.”

42 From a ranch in Tenino, Colton Smith is making waves on the ATP tour, but hopes to be able to get back to hunting and fishing one day.

Smith grew up on his family’s 20-acre ranch in Tenino, where he developed his love for hunting and fishing. At age 10, he began working with tennis coach Jody Rush, and by his early teens he’d ditched other sports to focus exclusively on tennis. He played state tournaments for a few years, but when he started playing national tournaments, his talent quickly caught the attention of college coaches.

After graduating high school he received a full scholarship to play tennis at the University of Arizona. Smith graduated in May and qualified for the Challenger Tour with the Association of Tennis Professionals, where he’s now playing tennis full time.

“I love the fact that I can play a game for a living and not have to work 9 to 5,” he said. “While there’s no mastery of the game, you can keep getting better, developing different shots and learning to control your nerves. It’s a test to see how far you’ve come, and that physical and mental challenge really draws me to the game.”

He is close to signing a sponsorship deal with Wilson, which will help pay his travel expenses as he moves around the world to play in the top tennis championships in Europe and Asia. With tournaments stacked one on top of the other, the hardest aspect of life on the pro tennis road is staying balanced, he said.

“There’s no time to focus on other things I enjoy, like my hunting and fishing, and my art,” he said. One of Smith’s passions is sketching animals, and his detailed portraits of pets, commissioned by members at his local tennis club, helped pay for his tennis expenses.

The high point of his career thus far has been qualifying to play at Indian Wells, where Smith beat former top 10 star Fabio Fognini. “I’ve seen him play all through my childhood, and to beat him, and beat another guy close to the top 100, was a pretty surreal moment for me, and a feeling I’ll be chasing,” he said. Smith hopes to play professional tennis for at least the next ten years. He plans to make Florida his home base by late 2025 and make frequent trips back to Washington to see family. “In ten years, I hope to be getting towards the end of my tennis career, and at that point I plan to buy a big old ranch somewhere,” he mused. “If I decide to work again after that, I might become a fishing guide.”

“While there’s no mastery of the game, you can keep getting better, developing different shots and learning to control your nerves. It’s a test to see how far you’ve come, and that physical and mental challenge really draws me to the game.”

— Colton Smith

Colton Smith Tennis Player

Born: Olympia Lives: Tenino

Age: 22

WORKOUT

“If it’s a non-tournament week, I play tennis up to three hours a day and spend an additional forty-five minutes working out. During a tournament week, I’ll practice two hours a day, do a lift workout for fortyfive minutes and do stretching or yoga.”

NUTRITION

“I try to avoid processed sugar and eat as much protein and carbohydrates as I can, but other than that, I don’t follow a specific diet. I try to eat a burger whenever I can.”

INSPIRATION

“My childhood coach Jody Rush has been a huge inspiration to me, both in tennis and in other parts of my life. He’s 80 now, but he plays tennis all the time and is still trying to improve his game. His curiosity about and passion for tennis has really inspired me. My younger sister Chloe, 20, also inspires me in the way she pushes herself mentally and physically. She just completed a 50-mile race in Wenatchee and is preparing for an ironman triathlon.”

Colton Smith competes at the BNP Paribas Open in Indian Wells, California, in March 2025.

Peter Staples/ATPTour.com

Reva Keller

Sumptuous chocolate from Fresco Chocolate in Lynden.

WASHINGTON’S GATEWAY TO

WINE, CULTURE & ADVENTURE

Experience the Lewis Clark Valley, one of Washington’s finest small-town destinations for wine, culture, and adventure. Sip 78+ Platinum Award–winning Lewis-Clark Valley AVA wines, explore Hells Canyon by jet boat, and engage with the living traditions of the Nez Perce (Nimiipuu) people. From scenic golf to unforgettable culinary and wine experiences, the Northwest Discovery Destination invites you to explore, savor, and discover more.

Beans to Dreams

How a visit to a Berkeley chocolate factory sparked a radical lifestyle change

written by Joni Kabana | photography by Reva Keller WAY UP NORTH in Washington, just 5 miles from the Canadian border, there’s a sweet stop worth a visit: Fresco Chocolate. Founded by Rob Anderson and his wife, Amy, this award-winning craft chocolate company has collected more than fifty national and international honors, yet Anderson maintains a humble and welcoming presence in the small agricultural town of Lynden.

Anderson’s path to chocolate wasn’t traditional. With a background in electrical engineering and computer science, he spent decades designing products and leading technical teams. But a chance visit to a Berkeley chocolate factory in 2003 changed everything. Captivated by the aroma and artistry, Anderson began experimenting in his garage with equipment he built himself. By 2010, Fresco Chocolate was born, and today visitors can taste the results of his curiosity.

“After years in high-stress jobs, my goal with Fresco Chocolate is simple: make the best chocolate I can and have fun doing it,” Anderson said. “Chocolate making is my creative escape, a place where I can experiment freely without asking anyone’s permission.”

Anderson ensures each bar of chocolate is a flavor adventure. He often roasts the same cocoa beans at different levels to reveal their personalities, from fruity and bright to deep and smoky, and likes to give visitors side-by-side taste tests so they can experience how one ingredient can become many different chocolates. If you prefer something more than a chocolate bar, Fresco Chocolate also collaborates with nearby candymaker The C Shop in Birch Bay to produce specialties like cocoa nib brittle and marshmallows.

Visitors can browse award-winning bars, sample selections and learn about the bean-to-bar process that defines the craft. Lynden, with its Dutch-inspired architecture and farming roots, makes for a charming backdrop to a chocolate adventure.

Beyond making chocolate, Anderson places community involvement as a priority by sponsoring local sports, supporting performing arts and donating to mission projects. By balancing between craft, community and family, Anderson believes his sweetest life goals are being met.

Open Slopes

Nonprofit Outdoors for All Foundation is making snowsports more accessible

written by Daniel O’Neil

WASHINGTON IS full of mountains, skiers and snowboarders.

e state’s world-class ski resorts draw millions each year and have raised Olympians and legends. ere’s no reason, then, that disabled Washingtonians shouldn’t join in the fun and stoke. Since 1979, the Outdoors for All Foundation has made such access a reality for people with disabilities, which also makes the mountain scene more complete.

At its outset, Outdoors for All, then named Ski for All, consisted of a group of skiers who had adaptive needs and a group of volunteers eager to share their love of snow. Since then, the organization has grown to provide year-round activities and continues to provide lessons and guidance on the slopes at e Summit at Snoqualmie and at Stevens Pass, ski resorts that help keep the Outdoors for All mission on track.

With weekday and weekend programs throughout the snow season, Outdoors for All organizes more than 400 volunteer instructors and oversees the adaptive equipment, like sit-skis and modified ski crutches, for more than 200 participants. All abilities and all types of disabilities, from physical to intellectual, including visual and hearing impairments, are welcome to learn and enjoy downhill skiing, snowboarding, Nordic skiing and snowshoeing

in the company of trained volunteers. Participants’ ages range from around 10 years old to adults in their 50s.

“Outdoor recreation is kind of a right,” said Connor Inslee, executive director of the Outdoors for All Foundation. “Everybody should be able to get outside and recreate. We’ve seen endless studies about how it improves quality of life, what it means for individuals. And living in the Northwest, where most folks are here for the outdoor recreation, we want to ensure that everyone has access. So we do that through providing adaptive programming regardless of disability.”

Along with offering instruction and adaptive gear, Outdoors for All helps participants surmount the high prices of winter recreation. Financial aid covers up to 90 percent of the cost for programs. Ski clothing can be rented. And free transportation is provided throughout the Puget Sound area for all programs.

e benefits transcend any boundaries.

“ e work Outdoors for All does at Stevens Pass is transformative,” said Ellen Galbraith, vice president and general manager of Stevens Pass ski resort. “It’s about more than access—it’s about empowerment. eir adaptive programs ensure that anyone, regardless of physical or developmental ability, can fully experience the magic of winter sports.”

For people of all abilities to have such access to chairlifts and groomed runs, and the equipment that makes it possible, fundraising remains crucial to Outdoors for All, a nonprofit. Several annual events, including Spreefest, to be held on March 7 at e Summit at Snoqualmie, ensure a continued commitment.

Twice a year Outdoors for All asks participants about the benefits of its programs. e most recent survey showed that 99 percent of participants reported having an increased sense of accomplishment and self-confidence. Ninety-eight percent reported an enriched or improved quality of life. And 94 percent reported an improved or increased level of physical fitness.

“We see firsthand, through our own surveys, how impactful adaptive recreation is,” Inslee said. “And we really emphasize that the activity is just part of what we do. We are also building community. We’re giving folks a place to build relationships, to engage their community and to get outside.”

At Stevens Pass, the universal benefits of adaptive snowsports are tangible. “ rough our partnership, we see firsthand how breaking down barriers on the mountain helps build stronger, more connected communities,” Galbraith said. “Each lesson creates a ripple effect, inspiring families, friends and fellow guests to see what’s possible when access and opportunity come together.”

Jakob and his dad are pictured alongside Outdoors for All Foundation volunteers, geared up for a day on the mountain.

Taylor

Gerlach Photography/Outdoors for All Foundation

Trails, Tides, Shops and Sips

Wander

Chasing the Northern

Lake Shannon, North Cascades

Lights

Patience, warm boots + a thermos with a hot drink are the price of admission

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

Andy Porter

I was already in Winthrop when I saw the northern lights for the first time. That’s the only reason it happened.

Nobody casually drives five hours from Seattle in February. This is the kind of trip you plan carefully, or get lucky with.

In winter, “plan carefully” isn’t just advice—it’s non-negotiable. North Cascades Highway (Highway 20) closes to vehicle traffic from mid-November through mid-April because of deep snow and avalanche danger. So, if you’re heading to Winthrop during the cold months, your only route is the long one: south through Wenatchee and up through Twisp. It may take more time, but it’s the only way in. The scenic shortcut over the North Cascades is strictly a summer perk.

That night, the sky was clear in that perfect way it sometimes is in the Methow Valley—quiet and a tad bit unnerving. The air held still. I stepped outside more out of restlessness than expectation. And there it was. A faint green arc rising along the northern horizon. No drama, no crescendo. Just a subtle, shifting ribbon of light, the kind you almost second-guess you’re seeing until it sways and deepens and there’s no denying it.

For most of my life, I thought the aurora belonged somewhere else. Iceland, Finland or the Arctic edges of Canada. Then one winter night, it showed up above the Cascades. I’d always thought of Winthrop as a summer destination, not the kind of place where the sky might surprise you. That sure changed fast.

This winter, we have more reason than usual to look up. We’re entering what’s called solar maximum—the sun’s liveliest stretch in its eleven-year cycle. When solar storms crank

up, those luminous ribbons stretch farther south than usual. Washington isn’t always in the path. This year, though, we might just be. If forecasts hold, this could be our best shot in decades. Miss it, and you might wait until 2037 to try again. I used to think aurora chasers were a little … unusual. Who bundles up in the dead of night to stand in a field, on a mountaintop or at a parking lot with no guarantee of seeing anything? Then I started listening to people who do it anyway.

A lodgekeeper near Diablo Lake once told me about a couple who return every winter, forecasts be damned. They set up their chairs in the same spot year after year. For them, it’s not about chasing the light; it’s about being there when it happens. A volunteer at a Ross Lake lookout said the best shows aren’t the ones that flood Instagram. They’re the quicksilver flares—the kind that vanish so fast you’re not sure they were ever really there.

Once you catch the bug, you start building your own map of good places to watch the sky. North Cascades National Park is the obvious classic. Remote, inky dark and about as close to a guaranteed blackout sky as you’ll find in Washington. On Orcas Island, Mount Constitution is known for its sweeping northern views. But the gate closes at sunset, making it off-limits for aurora viewing at night unless you’re willing to hike up from Mountain or Twin Lakes at twilight (about 3 to 4 miles). (Overnight camping in designated areas in Moran State Park is permitted, but not at the summit itself.)

That night, the sky was clear in that perfect way it sometimes is in the Methow Valley—quiet and a tad bit unnerving. The air held still. I stepped outside more out of restlessness than expectation. And there it was. A faint green arc rising along the northern horizon. No drama, no crescendo. Just a subtle, shifting ribbon of light, the kind you almost second-guess you’re seeing until it sways and deepens and there’s no denying it.

John Quach/Cosmic Zen Photography

Longs Pass

Closer to Seattle, Snoqualmie Point Park is a reliable lastminute option. The kind of place where locals pull in after dark, cut their headlights and wait. The 32-mile Snoqualmie Valley Trail also has a few solid stargazing pockets. Most of it runs under a canopy of trees, but stretches like Taylor’s Landing and the section east of North Bend open up to the night sky.

On Whidbey Island, Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve is a local favorite. Park at Prairie Overlook and hike up the bluff for a wide-open view, or walk the beach if you prefer level ground. The main trailhead closes at dusk, so stick to Prairie Overlook if you’re there after hours.

If you want a more intentional stargazing trip, head south toward the Columbia River Gorge. Goldendale Observatory State Park, just outside the small town of Goldendale (less than two hours south of Yakima), is one of the best dedicated stargazing spots in the state. It’s a short drive from Brooks Memorial State Park, where camping gives you a soft landing after a late night under the stars. The observatory is especially popular during celestial events, so expect to share the view.

On the coast, meteor showers over the Olympic Peninsula are their own kind of magic. The beach sits just steps from the

parking area, and the lack of light pollution makes the night sky feel endless.

Eastern Washington also has its own standout spots. The stark landscape at Telford Recreation Area, about an hour west of Spokane, feels otherworldly. It’s the result of an old burn that left the terrain looking more like the moon than a grassland. And near Grand Coulee, the stars over Steamboat Rock State Park are dazzling. If you can, make it an overnight trip. The serene desert and bright night skies are worth the extra planning.

And don’t overlook the simple, sometimes serendipitous moments. Ferry docks in Mukilteo, Edmonds, Bainbridge or Vashon can deliver solid northern views on a good night. When the numbers spike, it doesn’t always take a far-flung drive—just a clear horizon and a little patience.

When I first started paying attention, I buried myself in scientific explainers that only made things more confusing. The short version is simpler: When the sun gets restless, it throws charged particles at Earth. Our magnetic field catches them. The sky lights up.

Steamboat Rock State Park

The NOAA Space Weather Prediction Center tracks the storms and measures what’s called the Kp index, a zero to nine scale that hints at how strong a display might be. On a good night, anything above a five can push the lights far enough south for us to see. Their models say the best window is usually between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m., though storms do whatever they please. You can have perfect numbers and see nothing. You can also wander outside on a whim and get lucky. The aurora doesn’t care about your plans.

What I’ve learned is that the waiting (and how you do it) matters. Dress like the temperature is out to get you. I’ve made the mistake of standing too long in boots better suited for a grocery run than a midnight stakeout. Now, I pack wool base layers, real winter boots and mittens I can peel back to adjust a lens. I stash snacks and a thermos. A foam sit-pad lives in the trunk. It’s not glamorous, but it buys time. Here, time is the price of admission.

Gear isn’t everything, but a tripod can make a big difference. So does Night Mode on newer phones. If the sky puts on a show, even a modest one, you’ll want something to remember it by. But I’ve learned not to live through the lens.

The most striking moment I’ve ever witnessed wasn’t the brightest display. It was a thin, pale arch just barely visible, rising above the tree line. No one else was around. No chatter, no clicks of shutters. Just me and the light.

This winter, people are talking. Lodge owners, photographers, ferry regulars and even the quiet night watchers who don’t post online. Everyone feels the hum of possibility. The equinox months can bring some of the best activity, but our long winter nights are where the magic happens. It’s not a sure thing—it never is. But the odds are better than they’ve been in a long time.

Aurora chasing isn’t about bucket lists or bragging rights. It’s about the in-between moments: the drive, the stillness, the decision to walk outside when you could’ve stayed warm. It’s about hope … and how rare it feels to stand under a night sky knowing something extraordinary could happen at any second.

If the aurora shows, you’ll know. If it doesn’t, the night still belongs to you.

Washington might surprise you this winter. Keep a spot in mind. Pack the thermos. And when the sky calls, step outside. That’s all it takes.

Andy Porter

Andy Porter

Troy Carpenter/Goldendale Observatory

Artist Point, North Cascades

Goldendale Observatory

More Places to

If Washington teases you with a glimpse, the world gives you a front-row seat.

In Iceland, the lights rise behind Þingvellir’s lava plains and shimmer across Jökulsárlón’s iceberg lagoon.

Abisko National Park in Sweden is a near sure thing—its “blue hole” skies rarely cloud over.

Methow Valley

View the Aurora

Finland turns the hunt into an Arctic fairy tale: reindeer rides in Lapland, husky runs and a glowing Oulu (a 2026 European Capital of Culture).

For pure drama, Norway wins. In Tromsø or Svalbard, the aurora dances over glass igloos; in Reine, the Lofoten fishing cabins glow under green skies.

Closer to home, Canada’s Northwest Territories see the lights about 240 nights a year. The Yukon and Nunavut offer vast, camera-ready darkness. Or skip the snow entirely and catch the show aboard an aurora cruise.

Stephen Mitchell

The Vanishing of International Students

Trump administration policies pose a cultural and financial threat to Washington’s universities

written by Lauren Kramer

Photo illustration: 1889 staff; photos: Bigstock

When Hassan Karim was accepted as an incoming postdoctoral research scholar at the University of Washington’s Graduate School of Sciences, he was ecstatic. The young Iranian had spent years preparing for this moment, and acceptance at UW was a chance to fulfill his dreams. (For the safety of the student, we use a pseudonym for this story.)

The opportunity came to a sudden halt with President Donald Trump’s June 9, 2025, proclamation of a travel ban on international students from specific countries, including Iran. In a letter to NAFSA, the Association of International Educators, Karim described how deeply the ban affected him.

“I spent more than five years (hoping) to get admission for a once-in-a-lifetime research opportunity in the United States—only to have it taken away by circumstances beyond my control,” he said. “Education should not be treated as a threat. We are students, researchers and future contributors to the global academic community. We deserve the chance to fulfill our dreams and be part of the world’s progress. We deserve a future, too.”

The Presidential Proclamation implemented travel restrictions and a complete suspension of visas for international students from twelve countries including Iran, Libya, Afghanistan and Yemen. It affected 18,926 international students according to the Presidents’ Alliance on Higher Education and Immigration. The nonpartisan nonprofit organization is composed of more than 580 presidents and chancellors of public and private colleges and universities in the United States and Puerto Rico.

Students from another seven countries, including Venezuela, Sierra Leone and Burundi, were given a partial

suspension of entry, affecting 5,339 students. Another Presidential Proclamation, issued in September 2025, introduced a $100,000 fee for certain new H-1B visa petitions filed for beneficiaries currently outside the United States. According to the federal government the restrictions are based on national security and public safety concerns, including issues like inadequate identity verification, high visa overstay rates and concerns about state sponsorship of terrorism.

The restrictions don’t revoke the validity of existing visas, nor do they apply to nationals who were inside the

Education should not be treated as a threat.

We are students, researchers and future contributors to the global academic community. We deserve the chance to fulfill our dreams and be part of the world’s progress. We deserve a future, too.

— Hassan Karim, student

U.S. on June 9, 2025. But they create uncertainty for those students and no guarantee of re-entry should they need to return home, even with a valid visa. For those in Karim’s position, these restrictions slam the door on dreams of research opportunities he had worked toward throughout his academic life.

Washington ranks sixteenth in the country for enrollment and fifteenth in the country for economic contribution of international students, according to NAFSA. In its 2023 economic value report, the organization noted some 23,878 international students were enrolled in the state, contributing $918 million to the economy and supporting 6,615 jobs.

The travel ban is disappointing, said Rachel Banks, NAFSA’s senior director of public policy and legislative strategy. “It sent a not-very-welcoming message to students from the countries affected, particularly Iran, which until recently sent between 10,000 and 12,000 students to the U.S. each year. Since we don’t have diplomatic relations with Iran, Iranian students had to go to other countries to interview for their visas. The hurdle they had to overcome to get into the U.S. was already high, and the added travel ban on top of it is just really disappointing.”

While the other countries on the “ban” list sent comparatively smaller numbers of students to the U.S., the ban is nevertheless impactful. Its effects go well beyond the international students themselves, robbing domestic students of opportunities to interact with the international community.

The list of individuals who’ve come to the U.S. for academic purposes and gone on to make incredible contributions to the world is significant. Albert Einstein, known for the theory of relativity, arrived in 1933 to study at Princeton. Chien-Shiung Wu, known as the “first lady of physics” for her contributions to nuclear physics, came from China in 1936 to study at UC Berkeley. Henry Kissinger came

from Germany to study at Harvard and played a crucial role in U.S. foreign policy, and Madeleine Albright, from the Czech Republic, came to study at Columbia University.

“International students contribute so much to our classrooms, to research, to the academic endeavor and to the communities that interact with these students,” Banks said. “Only 10 percent of American students complete a study abroad program, so for the other 90 percent, having international students on campus gives them the benefit of learning about different cultures and countries.”

International student numbers vary significantly by university and college, but educators and administrators agree the role international students play is invaluable. Bellevue College had just 1,371 international students last year, representing 6.5 percent of the student population. While the college hasn’t seen an impact on international student enrollment, it has noticed a change in the climate.

“The political discussions on student visas and immigration send the message that America is not welcoming toward international students,” said Jean D’Arc Campbell, assistant vice president of international programs at Bellevue. “That can have a big impact on other countries’ perception, even if those countries are not among those on the travel ban list.”

International students are a critical part of Bellevue College and integral to Washington state, Campbell reflected. “International students are an asset, and they bring more than just tuition; they bring a diverse culture that allows us to meet with people from other countries and hear their unique experiences. As a global society, it is incumbent upon higher education institutions to educate our student body about the world.”

Richard Bruce, director of International Student & Scholar Services at Western Washington University, sees a multiplier effect of having international students on campus. “When U.S. students interact with international students, they may become more interested in international travel, study and work and in turn help develop a globally

competent workforce and citizenry,” he said. The 150-to200 international students at WWU come from forty-five different countries.

At UW, international students constitute 14 percent of enrollment, with 8,740 enrolled in fall 2024. Net tuition and fees was 10 percent of the university’s total budget of $11.75 billion for 2024-2025, and international students’ tuition and fees constituted 20 percent of UW’s net tuition.

NAFSA projected a 30 to 40 percent decline in new international student enrollment in the U.S. in fall 2025, which it anticipated would result in a 15 percent decline in overall enrollment. “This drop would result in nearly $7 billion in lost revenue and 60,000 fewer jobs,” it said in an analysis of international enrollment outlook. In Washington, it projected the loss to be $145 million.

The visa bans targeted nineteen countries in the June executive order, but there were rumors at the time that another thirty-six countries would be added—twenty-five of them in Africa. That has not occurred, but if it did, a total of 76,777 students would be affected. NAFSA is urging the State Department to provide expedited visa appointments and processing for F-1 and M-1 students, and to exempt certain exchange visitors from the travel restrictions that currently ban those countries—while maintaining the background checks and vetting required for visa issuance.

“We are shooting ourselves in the foot by turning away international student and scholar talent,” said Banks. She noted the many advances in medicine and tech innovations where international students and scholars have played a key role. “The vaccine developed for COVID was developed in part by Katalin Karikó, a Hungarian who first came to the U.S. as an international postdoc research scholar,” she added. “If she hadn’t been here, we wouldn’t have benefited from that. By driving away international students and scholars, we will suffer from short-term and long-term consequences.”

Ironically, a decline in domestic enrollment at American universities will be one of those consequences, warns Zuzana Wootson, deputy director of federal policy at Presidents’ Alliance. “Domestic enrollment increases as a result of international student enrollment, meaning that international students create academic opportunities for American students,” she said. She referenced data from the National Foundation for American Policy, which indicates that if international students no longer came to the U.S. to study, undergraduate enrollment would drop by 2 percent while graduate enrollment would decline by 11 percent between 2025 and 2029.

The programs most likely to be affected will be the STEM fields, she added. In 2019 and 2020, half of all STEM master’s degrees and 57 percent of all STEM doctorate degrees

were conferred to international students, the majority of them hailing from China and India, according to Educational Testing Service.

“In Washington state, revenue from international students will drop from close to $1 billion to $821 million next year, and that’s just from spring to fall 2025,” she continued. “It may seem like a small drop right now. But with more expected policy changes, it’s a trend that’s likely to continue unless we assemble policies that welcome international students. This is how we as a country are losing the benefits international students create for us.”

International students are an asset, and they bring more than just tuition; they bring a diverse culture that allows us to meet with people from other countries and hear their unique experiences. As a global society, it is incumbent upon higher education institutions to educate our student body about the world.

— Jean D’Arc Campbell, Bellevue College assistant vice president of international programs

After an atmospheric river dropped more than 5 inches of rain on the

a

of

a

snowpack,

fresh coat

snow lent

smooth veneer to the surreal texture of the landscape on the Snow Lake divide below Snoqualmie Mountain.

WILD PLACES A LOVE LETTER TO

written by Kerry Newberry | photography by Scott Rinckenberger

FOR TWENTY-FIVE YEARS, Scott Rinckenberger has traveled to the world’s wildest places, capturing untamed beauty through commercial and adventure photography—from trekking Peru’s remote Cordillera Huayhuash to exploring Norway’s pristine Lofoten Islands. Over time, he’s realized the stories he treasures transcend human adventure.

“I think a lot of the meaning we find out there comes from tapping into something greater than ourselves,” said Rinckenberger. “More and more, I’ve come to appreciate and celebrate the places themselves as the heroes of my time outside.”

That emotion resonates throughout his work, especially in his evocative portraits of the Pacific Northwest. Despite traveling the globe, Rinckenberger has yet to find anywhere that matches the diverse terrain of the place he calls home. Within hours, you can stand on a rugged coastline, ascend glaciated peaks, cross into high desert or wander through lush rainforest. “It’s an endless canvas—both for exploration and artistic expression,” he said.

Rinckenberger’s favorite work emerges when he heads out with a stripped-down kit, often just a single camera body and one or two lenses. “I’ll plan an adventure, whether it’s alpine climbing or a backcountry ski tour,” he said. Moving dynamically through the landscape, sometimes over the course of days or weeks, he seeks more than just beautiful images. His goal is to illuminate the sacred spaces that deserve to be preserved.

His most iconic images are black and white—elemental studies of light and form. Stripped of distraction, they capture the sublimity and silence of wild places. You can see these images and other works at his North Bend gallery. Located in the heart of downtown, he calls the space a love letter to the craft of photography and its power to bring people together.

“I miss the days of slideshows—friends gathering to share the thrill of new images,” said Rinckenberger. “In a world of phone screens, I wanted a place where people could experience photography in full scale and reconnect with that shared sense of wonder.” For more information, visit www.scottrinck.com.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

On a late summer evening, as the last light of the day spilled into the Snoqualmie Falls basin, the streams of the falls caught the last bit of sunshine, and were rendered bright and crisp against the surrounding shaded rock walls.

Deep in the remote Glacier Peak Wilderness in the North Cascades, a lone subalpine fir tree stands strong against the harsh winters, its efforts rewarded with an unobstructed view of the Elephant Head spire on Dome Peak.

Photographer Scott Rinckenberger in Norway.

Record-breaking low temperatures created snowflakes so light that they hovered in the frigid air, to be illuminated by the

low-lying sun barely cresting the horizon across the valley from Cave Ridge in the Snoqualmie backcountry.

A cold, clear and windless New

Day revealed a landscape blanketed with a coat of perfectly smooth powder, which took on magnificent tonal range in the late afternoon light.

AT RIGHT A dark blue desert sky, rendered black by a lens filter, sets the scene for the strikingly geometric Apathetic Rock near the Live Oak area of Joshua Tree National Park.

AT LEFT

Year’s

In the foothills of the Japanese Alps, the mountains build in a series of geometrical ridges and valleys covered with deciduous beech trees. On the faces of the hills, the forests appear sparse and skeletal, but as the faces rise to the gentle ridge tops, the density of the trees compound and the depth of these treed ridges give the entire landscape a topographic graphic unique to the area.

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72

ADVENTURE 74

LODGING 76

TRIP PLANNER 78

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84

Take a trip across the pond to Norwegian-inspired Poulsbo.

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism

Discover Nature' s Splendor at Mount Rainier National Park CHASE

CASCADING WATERFALLS AND WANDER WONDERFUL TRAILS

Mount Rainier National Park is a place of transformation, where snowmelt fuels powerful waterfalls, and hiking trails reveal their vibrant beauty. Discover iconic cascades like the 72-foot-high Myrtle Falls, the Narada Falls, and the Christine Falls, with their rushing waters framed by lush greenery and dramatic rock formations. Each trail offers a chance to get close to the action, with the sound of waterfalls creating a backdrop for an unforgettable adventure. As you hike, look for blooming avalanche lilies along the trails, their bright white petals adding to the breathtaking scenery. The trails are alive with fresh air, stunning views, and the promise of discovery around every corner. Whether you’re chasing waterfalls or enjoying a peaceful walk, join us for an adventure that will leave you inspired and connected to the beauty of Mount Rainier.

The Wild Edge of Washington

Remote Cape Fla ery is the rugged beautiful land of the Makah Tribe

written by Joni Kabana

WHERE THE Olympic Peninsula meets the endless Pacific, Cape Fla ery feels like standing at the very edge of the world. This northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States is a dramatic meeting of cli s, sea stacks and crashing waves—an unforgettable destination for adventurers and dreamers alike.

Begin your journey along the Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, a coastal drive that winds past forests and sparkling waters before reaching Neah Bay, home of the Makah Tribe. A stop at the Makah Museum provides a fascinating glimpse into the tribe’s history, including their centuries-long connection to these waters.

From the trailhead, a short, family-friendly hike takes you under towering moss-draped spruce. The path opens onto boardwalks with breathtaking views of cli s plunging into turquoise seas, where seabirds wheel and the ocean churns with energy. Tatoosh Island, crowned with its historic lighthouse, stands in the distance as waves hammer its base. Depending on the season, you might spot playful sea o ers, migrating whales or puffins clinging to the rocky outcrops.

For a richer experience, explore nearby Shi Shi or Hobuck beaches for tide pools and quiet reflection, or join a local whale-watching tour. Each season transforms Cape Fla ery: Spring brings wildflowers along the trail, summer o ers calm waters and bright horizons and fall and winter deliver stormy seas, misty cli s and solitude.

Standing on these windswept platforms, the wind on your face and the air’s briny tang, it’s easy to feel both humbled and exhilarated. Cape Fla ery is more than a viewpoint—it’s a journey, a sensory adventure and a reminder of the enduring beauty of Washington’s wild coastline. What’s stopping you from grabbing a cooler, your favorite picnic supplies and heading to the wild side of Washington?

On the remote west coast of the Olympic Peninsula, Cape Fla ery shows her austere beauty.

DISCOVER WHAT’S IN YOU

Unwind in the refreshing swell of life on the river. In the Heart of Washington Wine Country® relaxation flows across 200 wineries and vineyards – all within a 50-mile radius. Here, tasting is only part of the experience. Well-blended vacations include unlimited sunshine, award-winning blends, a captivating fusion of history and science, open skies, and endless space. Visit DISCOVER WHAT’S IN YOU. the Tri-Cities and

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The Power of Pause

Meditation retreats that help reconnect with nature and carry compassion back into everyday life

written by Cathy Carroll

MODERN LIFE rarely gives us space to slow down, focus and reflect. In a world that never stops, meditation retreats offer a rare chance to pause, breathe and reconnect—with nature, with community and yourself. They provide space to step out of daily routines, let distractions fade and for the mind to settle. In times when many feel powerless to create meaningful change, the experience promotes calm, clarity and renewed compassion to carry back into everyday life, where mindful actions can make a real difference. Here are a few retreats with restorative experiences worth exploring.

CASTLE ROCK

Cloud Mountain Retreat Center

Pamela Nelson-Gordon was in Longview running a company, caring for her mother-in-law with dementia and her son on the autism spectrum when she registered for a New Year’s meditation retreat at Cloud Mountain Retreat Center in 2021. Snow fell amid 15 acres of forested land with tall evergreens, alders and maples, ponds, a meandering creek and roaming deer. She felt as if she could fully exhale for the first time in a while.

“It’s a vacation from having to explain yourself, from having to introduce yourself as ‘This is what I do,’ or who I am to justify your existence,” she said. “You’re just with other human beings, being a human being.”

Not speaking allows you to receive more from the experience, said Nelson-Gordon, who started volunteering at the center after that retreat and now manages it. “You can see how beautiful it is here and how kind and generous the little things are that other people do that we don’t see in everyday life, and you can take that home with you.”

Realizing that kindness changes the world, one increment at a time, is powerful, she said. “It means that every time you leave, you have a sense you can contribute to someone’s day, to someone’s life just by connecting with them in a real sense and being gentle and compassionate.”

Cloud Mountain Retreat Center in Castle Rock is a peaceful sanctuary for retreat offering refuge, restoration and renewal.

Miles Alderman/Cloud Mountain Retreat Center

is experience shifts the feeling of isolation that can lead to paralysis or anger. “It moves that pendulum just a little bit so that you can see that you are truly part of the community, that you’re truly part of human beings everywhere and that small actions matter,” said Nelson-Gordon. (www.cloudmountain.org)

SEDRO-WOOLLEY

Fox Creek Falls Retreat Center

Driving up from the Skagit River toward Fox Creek Falls Retreat Center on 88 forested acres, the waterfalls streaming down on either side signal that any meditation practice could flourish here. Retreats combine meditation with yoga, healing therapies and connecting with nature. Winding trails among the towering pines offer secluded spaces for walking meditation with certified instructors leading sessions in a 5,000-square-foot log cabin lodge.

“You can hardly be anywhere on the property and not hear a waterfall, because there are at least ten waterfalls here, large and small,” said Michael Lenarz, a chiropractor who co-founded the center two years ago. Lenarz, 68, has been practicing meditation and yoga for more than fifty years and believes the ancient practice is more relevant than ever. “ e world is getting more and more crazy,” he said. “People are pretty overwhelmed with the speed of life on the planet and all of the technology and quick changes that are happening in society. ere needed to be a place of refuge.”

Meditation offers the deep internal peace that people need, he said. at opens doorways to creativity, self-expression and seeing relationships differently. “It’s about a reset in life and a chance to step into another possibility.” (www.foxcreekfalls.com)

TROUT LAKE

Mount Adams Buddhist Temple at Trout Lake Abbey

At the foot of Mount Adams on a former 23-acre organic farm, the temple offers meditation in the Buddhist tradition for anyone seeking stillness or clarity.

Temple co-founder ich Minh Tinh said meditation is a skill like learning to ride a bike. “We start off sort of wobbly and then develop it in a very short period of time.” at skill is like a vacation for the mind, he said. “We live our lives with pain—people are unkind to us or short with us, we don’t get what we want or we don’t live up to what we were told. We have disease, old age, sickness, death, loss. Meditation allows us to endure the unendurable. It allows us to find freedom … the safe harbor of peace in our hearts and our spirits that goes beyond what we can do without meditation.” e practice also brings clarity to how we live each moment. “My actions are the ground on which I stand,” he said. “ e goal is to get out of ourselves and realize that this life is it, and let’s live it to the best we can.” (www.mtadamsbuddhisttemple.org)

BELOW Fox Creek Falls Retreat Center sits on 88 forested acres.

Sunrises and sunsets bathe the grounds of Mount Adams Buddhist Temple at Trout Lake Abbey, inviting stillness and reflection. (photo: Mount Adams Buddhist Temple at Trout Lake Abbey)

Lodging

Tokeland Hotel

written by Lauren Kramer

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Tokeland Hotel has just seventeen rooms and four shared bathrooms, but its bedrooms are comfortably furnished with new beds and quality linens. The rooms are small but adequate since guests spend their leisure time in the hotel’s many cozy communal spaces.

AMENITIES

Guests can pedal the quiet streets that line the estuary on complimentary cruiser bikes. At night there’s a communal fire pit with Adirondack chairs, and a wood-heated hot tub and cold plunge available for private bookings. The hotel has several communal spaces warmed by wood stoves and fireplaces and equipped with books and a great selection of games.

DINING

IF YOU’RE looking for warmth, charm and a rustic, rural ambience, make a beeline for the Tokeland Hotel. The oldest hotel in the state, it was built in 1885, four years before Washington joined the confederation, and that venerable age steeps the hotel in authenticity. You feel it in the thick wood walls, the furniture, some of which came over on the Mayflower, and the eclectic decor of the common areas, whose walls feature taxidermied animal heads and whose surfaces are packed with plants and interesting paraphernalia. Take a seat by the crackling fireplace on lovingly worn leather sofas, pick a book from shelves heavy with literature or check out the freshly made galettes and towering cakes that call temptingly from the dessert buffet. This is a place where pet cats roam the halls, where Gus, the well-fed labrador, is a fixture in the dining room and where chickens, goats and pigs totter around outside, living full, healthy lives. Coming to the Tokeland is like spending the night with a longtime, trusted friend: cozy, comforting and homey. And its location, on a tongue of land surrounded by the Willapa Bay estuary, makes you feel like you’re sequestered on the very edge of civilization.

2964 KINDRED AVE.

TOKELAND www.tokelandhotel.com

The hotel’s restaurant, The Wandering Goose, has earned its reputation for fabulous fine dining, and its relaxed, unpretentious dining room is a favorite destination for locals and hotel guests. Heather Earnhardt is at the helm, an acclaimed Seattle chef who ditched city life in 2018 and moved to Willapa Bay with her family, won over by its peace and serenity. With many of her proteins, fruit and vegetables supplied by area farms, her menu is a true farm-totable smorgasbord infused with creative cuisine that never strays far from comfort food. Don’t miss the sorghum salad with fried chicken, or the Toke Point oysters, harvested daily just steps from the back door.

HISTORY

Built as a family farmhouse in 1885, the building opened as an inn in 1899. At various points in its history, it had a nine-hole golf course on its grounds and housed the town’s post office and general store. In 1978, it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and under different ownership over the decades, it’s been carefully improved and updated.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The lobby of the historic Tokeland Hotel. Rooms are classic turn-of-the-century adorned. The Tokeland restaurant, The Wandering Goose, has amazing fried chicken. The hotel’s wood-heated hot tub.

Photos, clockwise from left: Douglas Robichaud/Tokeland Hotel, Kelsey Bumsted/Tokeland Hotel, Adam Way/Tokeland Hotel, Kelsey Bumsted/Tokeland Hotel

Three Perfect Winter Days in Poulsbo

The Norwegian-inspired bay town transports visitors to coastal Scandinavia

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

HERE’S THE THING nobody tells you: Winter in Poulsbo is kind of perfect. The ferry isn’t crowded, the air snaps you awake and the town feels like it’s letting you in on the season it saves for itself.

Norwegian flags, holiday lights, a main street that hums quietly instead of shouting—everything slows down just enough to make you notice it.

Day

BAKED GOODS • SHOPS • LIGHTED SHIPS PARADE

Where you stay changes everything. Poulsbo Inn & Suites gives you walkable access to downtown. If you like waking to mist over the bay, aim for a room facing Liberty Bay, and book it early (to be safe).

Front Street is where you really meet Poulsbo. The smell hits first—warm bread from Sluys Poulsbo Bakery. Locals line up early for their famous Poulsbo Bread, a soft multigrain loaf that’s been around since the ’70s. But the real trouble starts with the pastries: Viking Cups stuffed with cream cheese and Maple Doughboys have a way of ending up in your bag. So do the doughnuts.

A few doors down, Nordiska sells the kind of Scandinavian home goods that make you want to throw out everything you own and start over. Linen throws, sleek mugs and those traditional carved and painted wooden Dala horses that whisper, “Yes, you need me.”

Then there’s Abigail’s Artful Abode—part gallery, part shop, part “I didn’t know I needed this until now.” Local artists fill the place with driftwood

Public art in Poulsbo reflects its Norwegian heritage.

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism

sculptures, sea-glass jewelry and moody seascapes of Liberty Bay, making it hard to leave without a small something wrapped in tissue paper.

Dinner in Poulsbo doesn’t make a grand entrance. Sogno di Vino wins you over with cedar-plank salmon and pasta. The room glows softly, and it’s easy to lose track of time.

When the mood leans casual, The Brass Kraken Pub steps in. Fish and chips land hot, pints keep flowing and the bay outside sets the pace.

If your timing is right, don’t miss the Lighted Ships Parade. In December, boats decked in holiday lights set off from the Poulsbo Yacht Club marina at 5 p.m. and drift toward downtown Poulsbo. Santa even calls names from the lead boat. It’s a harbor-side spectacle you’ll remember.

Day

SEA CREATURES • JULEFEST • LOCAL EATS

Mornings in Poulsbo take it easy. Hot Shots Java is where the day really begins. Locals swear by the lattes, though the dark roast is just as loyal. Pastries rotate, but the blueberry scones tend to go first. If you want something bigger, the breakfast burrito is a tasty hometown favorite.

Sluys Poulsbo Bakery serves Viking Cups stuffed with cream cheese and is famous for its Poulsbo Bread.

The secret season of Poulsbo is winter, when snow covers the bay and cameras come out.

Love Kitsap

Visit

Poulsbo

Once you’ve got your cup, follow the short path down to Muriel Iverson Williams Waterfront Park. Boats line up like they’re half asleep. Liberty Bay mirrors the peaks when the fog allows it.

If you really like boats, take a side trip to nearby Bremerton, and visit the Puget Sound Navy Museum and the USS Turner Joy Museum Ship, both in the heart of Bremerton’s boardwalk.

Just behind the port in Poulsbo sits the SEA Discovery Center. Tide pool tanks are filled with sea stars, crabs and kelp, but most people come for Klahanie, a young giant Pacific octopus rescued off Whidbey Island. She was found curled up inside a discarded glass bottle and brought here to recover before she’s released back into the wild. Her name means “outside” in Chinook Jargon. When she shifts colors—deep maroon one moment, pale cream the next—the room goes quiet. She’s that mesmerizing.

Lunch options include Paella Bar, where tapas like goat cheesestuffed dates, fried razor clams, beef empanadas and a seafood paella anchor the menu. Burrata Bistro leans into northern Italian comfort: fresh pasta (think lasagna with roasted chicken and spinach), handmade sauces and seasonal specials like osso buco or clam linguine.

Afternoon is your window. Rent a kayak if conditions allow; Liberty Bay takes on a still, mirrorlike calm in winter. When the water isn’t an option, Grand Forest West on Bainbridge Island offers shaded trails under mossy firs.

Winter evenings in Poulsbo have a ritual all their own: Julefest. This year, it’s scheduled for December 6. The schedule includes the Nordic Market from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., the Lucia Bride arriving by Viking boat, a torchlit procession and a bonfire with a winter proclamation read by the Viking King. The smell of lefse (a traditional Norwegian flatbread) and mulled cider drifts through the air, vendors sell Nordic crafts and, for a night, Front Street hums.

Dinner that night feels easy, the way it should. Dalla Baia Italian Bistro sits right downtown with views of the bay. The kitchen leans modern Italian—house-made pasta, prawn risotto and salmon finished with lemon butter. If you’d rather keep things low key, The Loft at Latitude Forty Seven Seven has its own draw. Locals come for the flatbreads and crab cakes, but the real win is the relaxed, waterside vibe.

Find pasta and more to love at The Loft at Latitude Forty Seven Seven.

Love Kitsap

ABOVE, FROM TOP Pause for a pint in the sun at the The Brass Kraken Pub. Get up close with sea life at the SEA Discovery Center’s tide pool touch tanks. Poulsbo’s annual Julefest includes a torchlit procession, bonfire and Nordic Market.

Weekend Sherpa/State of Washington Tourism

Love Kitsap

Love

Kitsap

EAT

The Brass Kraken Pub www.brasskrakenpub.com

Burrata Bistro www.burratabistro-paellabar.com

Byrdie’s Coffee www.byrdiescoffee.com

Dalla Baia Italian Bistro www.dallabaia.com

Green Light Diner www.greenlightdiner.com

Hot Shots Java www.hotshotsjava.com

The Loft at Latitude Forty Seven Seven www.theloftpoulsbo.com

Paella Bar www.burratabistro-paellabar.com

Sluys Poulsbo Bakery www.sluyspoulsbobakery.com

Sogno di Vino www.sogno-di-vino.com

STAY

Poulsbo Inn & Suites www.poulsboinn.com

PLAY

Abigail’s Artful Abode www.abigailsartfulabode.com

Crimson Cove Smoked Specialties www.crimsoncove.com

Foulweather Bluff Nature Preserve www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ foulweather-bluff-preserve-trail Julefest www.poulsbosonsofnorway.com

Muriel Iverson Williams Waterfront Park www.visitpoulsbo.com/directory/murieliverson-williams-waterfront-park

Nordiska www.nordiskashop.com

Poulsbo Maritime Museum & Historical Society www.poulsbohistory.com

SEA Discovery Center www.cedar.wwu.edu/ sea-discovery-center

Day

COFFEE

Morning in Poulsbo moves slowly. You might revisit your favorite coffee spot—or try Byrdie’s Coffee, a quiet corner spot.

A short drive north brings you to Foulweather Bluff Nature Preserve. The trail winds through forest and then opens to a wild stretch of shoreline. Driftwood piles near the water’s edge, and an eagle sometimes claims the view.

Back in town, brunch at Green Light Diner is satisfying and no surprises: big plates, good coffee and friendly waitstaff. Before you leave, stop at Crimson Cove

Smoked Specialties in downtown Poulsbo. Their smokehouse turns out house-smoked salmon, cheeses, nuts, oils and salts using alder and apple wood. Try their black pepper smoked salmon or smoked pepper jack cheese (locals rave about them), or grab smoked nuts for the road. These make excellent gifts and travel beautifully. Your final walk doesn’t need a plan. You cradle the last cup of coffee, and let the town have the last word. When you leave, there’s bread on the seat beside you and a quiet promise you’ll return.

Byrdie’s Coffee in Poulsbo is a good place to catch up over caffeine.

Take a short hike to Foulweather Bluff Nature Preserve, where driftwood is washed up like maritime memories.

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism

Olya Blase

Harrison Hot Springs

The cure for cold-weather blues lies in British Columbia

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

SLIP INTO Harrison Hot Springs with one assignment: soak, stroll and repeat. This little lakefront village in British Columbia doesn’t just whisper “slow down”—it hands you a robe and shows you how.

Your best base camp? Harrison Hot Springs Resort, where the mineral pools are reserved for overnight guests (translation: no tour bus crowds). Book an East Tower Lake View King. It’s the newer tower, with balconies that frame snow-dusted ridgelines and beds so plush you’ll briefly consider abandoning real life. If boutique-y and budget-friendlier is more your speed, Harrison Beach Hotel sits right across the road. Its refreshed rooms and lake-view suites come with kitchenettes—perfect for impromptu wine-and-cheese picnics between dips.

Winter is when this place shines. When steam curls up from 40-degree Celsius pools and brushes against the cold like two strangers meeting at a bar. When eyelashes catch little flecks of frost. By December, Lights by the Lake casts the waterfront in Hallmark-movie shimmer (minus the fake snow), twinkling

Steam rises from the mineral pools at Harrison Hot Springs Resort, offering a serene winter escape.

Tourism Harrison

nightly through early January. Bring mittens. Stroll the promenade. Then sink back into the water as the glow reflects off the lake like a string of fireflies.

Some places fix you without making a big deal about it. This is one of them. One soak in that hot water and the world stops shouting. Muscles unclench. Time slows. Suddenly, winter feels less like something to endure and more like a reason to stay a little longer.

So, when you arrive, don’t overthink it. Drop your bags and head straight for the outdoor pools before you even unzip your suitcase. Because, really, why wait? The light slips behind Mount Breakenridge, the water hisses softly against the cold and whatever you carried here starts to dissolve.

Hunger eventually wins. Shuffle (yes, in your boots and post-soak glow) to Old Settler Pub, where locals lean on the bar and pints of craft beer from Old Yale Brewing and Backcountry Brewing flow. Order the beef dip, or the hothoney chicken and waffles if you’re feeling indulgent. Add poutine. You’re in Canada, after all. Resistance is futile.

Ease into the day at Muddy Waters Café, a lakefront favorite that skips the corporate polish. A mocha warms your hands; the salmon chowder takes care of everything else. Then, tilt your head back. All those specks in the sky? Eagles. They come here every

winter to follow the salmon. A Harrison Eco Tours boat drifts through the mist, guides pointing out wings above and flashes of silver below. You don’t plan on saying “wow,” but you do anyway.

As the light softens, bundle up for the Lights by the Lake loop, then float back into the mineral pools before dinner at Morgan’s Bistro. Ask for the upstairs patio room (enclosed in winter) and a table overlooking the water. The menu leans local: braised lamb shank with rosemary demi-glace, wild salmon with citrus beurre blanc, and sticky toffee pudding that should come with a warning label.

On departure morning, step back into the pools for a final float. Then wander the promenade as the lake wakes up, a thin veil of mist trailing across the water. This is the moment you start plotting your return. Shoulder season, maybe. Fewer crowds, softer prices, smug satisfaction.

If you stayed at the resort, linger over smoked salmon eggs Benedict or a Caesar cocktail (Canada’s spicy answer to a Bloody Mary) at the Lakeside Dining Room. Toast the lake. Winter cracked wide open, one soak at a time.

Pro tips: Bring your passport, fill up before crossing the border (gas is cheaper in the States) and download maps ahead of time—cell service can be unreliable in the Fraser Valley.

EAT

Morgan’s Bistro (604) 491-1696

Muddy Waters Café www.muddywaterscafe.ca

Old Settler Pub www.oldsettlerpub.com

STAY

Harrison Beach Hotel www.harrisonbeachhotel.com

Harrison Hot Springs Resort www.harrisonresort.com

PLAY

Harrison Eco Tours www.harrisonecotours.com

Lights by the Lake www.tourismharrison.com/ lights-by-the-lake

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A peaceful walk along the lakefront with snow-dusted ridgelines. Twinkling holiday lights reflect off the lake, creating a magical scene. Majestic eagles flock to Harrison every winter to follow the salmon.

Tourism Harrison

Tourism Harrison

Robyn Bessenger/Tourism

Harrison

1889 MAPPED

Until Next Time

“This photo was taken during a day of adventuring and shooting photos with my husband, Andy Mahre, in the backcountry of Washington. Powder, perfect temps, fresh tracks and an epic ski date with my best friend. As we say at White Pass, ‘Best Day Ever.’”

photo by Shannon Mahre

Destinations

A gift they’ll always remember

The best things in life aren’t things. They’re experiences you have that are so much fun they become memories. So here’s an idea. This holiday, give your friends, kids or entire extended family something they absolutely don’t already have. An amazing, fun-filled trip to Seaside.

‘Touch Grass’ This Season at PNW Resorts

LEAVE THE MACHINERY OF EFFICIENCY BEHIND & UNPLUG FOR A FULL REFRESH

The more that technology thinks for us, the less it truly does for us. Convenience is growth. E ciency becomes the goal. With AI and its myriad applications relegating human thinking to writing prompts, a counterbalance has been emerging behind the slogan “touch grass.”

Why not? If technology has made life more convenient and e cient, why not get outside more to touch grass, or gravel or water?

Thankfully, resorts in the Pacific Northwest have raised touching the grass to an art form over the years. Whether via hikes that wind through the Cascades, waterfalls that cascade down hundreds of feet, beaches that stretch for miles or mountain vistas that seemingly appear out of nowhere, PNW resorts o er many di erent ways to unplug and reconnect.

Cover: Black Butte Ranch

(photo: Boone Rodriguez/Black Butte Ranch)

Sand and surf (and grass) await you during your next stay at Salishan Coastal Lodge south of Lincoln City. (photo: SCP Hotels)

Oregon

BLACK BUTTE RANCH

In the fall warmth of Central Oregon’s high desert, for example, Black Butte Ranch has many ways to lose yourself in the outdoors. Hiking trails around the ranch are attainable for most visitors. e signature hike up the namesake butte, Black Butte, is a 4-mile out-and-back that gains 1,600 feet and can take two to four hours, depending on if you’re stopping to smell the manzanita. If you prefer a lot of grass and well-manicured grass, jump on one of the resort’s two eighteen-hole golf courses. Big Meadow is a challenging course designed by Robert Muir Graves. e other course, Glaze Meadow, was redesigned by John Fought and is known for its large greens. Don’t forget to book time for the alternative nineteenth hole—the Spa at Black Butte Ranch, located inside the Glaze Meadow Recreation Center.

SUNRIVER RESORT

Sunriver Resort is Shangri-la for fall recreation in Central Oregon. e resort caters to all ages and all seasons, with 40 miles of paved paths for biking and walking. ere are adjacent trails that dip into the Deschutes National Forest, crossing tentacles of the Deschutes River. Sunriver is also synonymous with its world-class golf courses, too. Four courses adorn the 3,300-acre resort, with the most famed Crosswater Club, designed by Bob Cupp with the Deschutes and Little Deschutes criss-crossing it often. e Spa at Sunriver Resort is an escape all to itself. Book the treatments you deserve in this serene retreat. Don’t just touch grass at Sunriver—look for it on

At Lake Creek Lodge, return home to a luxury cabin with a fireplace to cozy up to in the cool fall mountain nights.

LAKE CREEK LODGE

the surface of other galactic bodies at the Oregon Observatory at Sunriver. Try one of its many high-powered telescopes during a dark, clear high desert night.

Another Central Oregon zen space is Lake Creek Lodge in the Camp Sherman area. ink comfortable and cozy cabins on one of Oregon’s most pristine bodies of water, the Metolius River. is is a spot for anglers

to revel in the waters of the Metolius and let their flies drift slowly downriver in the middle of the Deschutes National Forest. Hiking and mountain biking trails are abundant in the surrounding forests, including the Mount Jefferson Wilderness. Take the kids out to the Wizard Falls fish hatchery just 6 miles from Lake Creek Lodge for a nearby outing. Return home to a luxury cabin with a fireplace to cozy up to in the cool fall mountain nights.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP With its miles of trails and spa, Sunriver Resort is a great pick for any season. Cozy up at Lake Creek Lodge in the Camp Sherman area. Black Butte Ranch features two scenic golf courses. (photos, clockwise from top: Sunriver Resort, Lake Creek Lodge, Boone Rodriguez/Black Butte Ranch)

EscapeThe Ranch

ELEVATED LEGACY

Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel

Opens Its Doors Above the Valley

High above the misty treetops of the Snoqualmie Valley, a new chapter in Washington hospitality is unfolding— one rooted in place, culture and panoramic beauty. Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel, now officially open, is more than a hotel—it’s a testament to the vision of the Snoqualmie Tribe, whose ancestral lands cradle this luxurious new destination.

Just 30 minutes from Seattle and perched along a forested ridge, the hotel is redefining what it means to escape into the mountains—without ever losing touch with the comforts of modern refinement.

Design Grounded in Heritage

At the heart of the expansion is a 210 room hotel, blending contemporary Northwest design with Snoqualmie cultural symbolism. Guests are welcomed by art and architecture that honor both the landscape and the Tribe’s traditions.

Interiors feature rich wood tones, stone, and subtle tribal motifs. Many rooms offer floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the valley or the surrounding evergreen hills. With valley views and curated artwork, the rooms feel both serene and intentional.

A Spa Inspired by the Earth

A highlight of the new property is, MoonRise Spa, a full-service spa, where healing traditions meet holistic wellness. Drawing from the Tribe’s deep connection to nature, the spa offers treatments rooted in regional botanicals. From hydrotherapy to herbal steam rooms, every element invites guests to slow down and reconnect.

Culinary Northwest, Reimagined

The property’s culinary offerings are a celebration of the region’s bounty and boldness, each concept rooted in craft, comfort and local flavor. At Vista Prime Steaks & Seafood, sweeping valley views complement a menu of expertly prepared cuts and coastal fare, while 12 Moons brings a modern Asian dining experience rich in flavor and artistry. Falls Buffet—the only casino buffet in Washington state—offers an abundant spread for every palate, from classic comfort dishes to global specialties. For casual all-hours eats, a second Drip café now serves artisan coffee and light bites 24/7, perfect for early risers or late-night players.

Hawks Peak

Perched above the excitement of the casino floor, Hawks Peak is Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel’s new high-energy sports bar that redefines game day. Featuring 66 big screens, there’s not a bad seat in the house—whether you’re cheering for the Seahawks, Mariners or your fantasy team. The menu elevates classic pub fare with Northwest flair, while the sky-high display cases are filled with nostalgic sports memorabilia that transport guests through decades of iconic moments. It’s the perfect blend of comfort, camaraderie and adrenalinefueled action.

An Elevated Casino Experience

Though the casino remains a cornerstone, now enhanced with a spacious non-smoking gaming area and state-of-the-art slots and table games, it’s the expanded experience that makes this destination so distinct. A new 2,000-seat entertainment and convention center promises to bring headline acts, large gatherings and conferences to the Cascade foothills— cementing Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel’s role as a hub for both leisure and celebration.

A Story of Resilience and Vision

This expansion is more than an architectural feat—it’s the realization of a dream nearly two decades in the making. Since opening the casino in 2008, the Snoqualmie Tribe has carefully reinvested in its future, guided by cultural values.

Whether arriving for a weekend retreat or a celebratory event, visitors will discover that Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel is more than a destination—it’s a story told through stone, wood and water, written high above the Snoqualmie Valley.

WALLOWA LAKE LODGE

Wallowa Lake Lodge is nature’s connection. Come for pristine wilderness, and stay for the vintage rooms with views overlooking Wallowa Lake. Rent kayaks, canoes and stand-up paddleboards from Wallowa Lake Marina, and embark on a serene paddling journey on the massive 3.5-mile-long body. Take water and snacks,

and head to the nearby Eagle Cap Wilderness. Hurricane Creek Trail is a good point of entry for hikers. Follow the trail along the creek for an easy out-and-back. At the southern end of Wallowa Lake, do an easy 2-mile out-and-back to BC Creek Falls, which leads to a tiered cascading waterfall. Wallowa Lake Lodge does not have a spa, but your mind and body will feel rejuvenated

after immersing yourself in the surrounding beauty.

SALISHAN COASTAL LODGE

Touch the grass and touch the trees at Salishan Coastal Lodge on the central Oregon Coast. South of Lincoln City, Salishan is home to golf and an aerial park, with a thrilling system of zip lines through tree canvases ending in eighteen elevated

decks along the way. Go with trained aerial guides, and leave civilization far below. Biking, hiking and surfing are also on the menu when you’re on the Oregon Coast. e lodge offers 9 miles of nature trails, or head to Gleneden Beach for surf lessons. Any hale day in the outdoors should end at e Spa at Salishan, with massages, facials and an outdoor hot tub overlooking Siletz Bay.

The historic Wallowa Lake Lodge is nestled at the south end of the 3.5-mile-long Wallowa Lake in Eastern Oregon. (photo: Wallowa Lake Lodge)

FROM LEFT In the summer, enjoy dinner and live music on the deck at Wallowa Lake Lodge. Salishan Coastal Lodge features 9 miles of nature trails. Navigate the treetops at Salishan’s thrilling aerial park. (photos, from left: Wallowa Lake Lodge, SCP Hotels, SCP Hotels)

Washington

RAINIER GUEST SERVICES

Rainier Guest Services is the entity that includes the majesty of Mount Rainier, its recreation and lodging. ink 236,000 acres of national forest inlaid with trails that go on for hundreds of miles. Fall is Mount Rainier’s finest season for hiking. Try the Nisqually Vista Trail from Paradise Lodge, a 1.2-mile loop with stunning views. Don’t miss Skyline Trail for a more challenging 5.5-mile loop. Or Naches Peak Loop, a 3.5-mile stunner that may offer late summer glimpses of wildflowers. History and lodging come together at Rainier. Paradise Inn was built in 1917 and sits grandly at 5,420 feet. It closes in October when snow makes it difficult to approach. National Park Inn, open year round, was built in 1926 and, with twenty-five guest rooms, is

more intimate than the 121room Paradise. Both offer hiking with stunning beauty.

SNOQUALMIE CASINO

Find your luck then find the falls at Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel. Enjoy world-class gaming as well as live music and comedy for entertainment at Snoqualmie. Pop out to five-star pampering at MoonRise Spa, in the forest bath of the Cascade foothills. Take in a sauna or the relaxation lounge while you soak in all of the green. You can’t miss the nearby Snoqualmie Falls, which majestically plunge 268 feet to the river below. A short interpretive trail connects the upper and lower falls viewpoints. Return to the modern comfort of the hotel rooms, many of them reconnecting you to nature with views of Mount Si and the Snoqualmie Valley.

ABOVE, FROM TOP Enjoy mountain views from your room at Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel. Mount Rainier National Park’s Paradise Inn was built in 1917. (photos, from top: Snoqualmie Casino & Hotel, Deby Dixon/Visit Rainier)

Fall can be a spectacular time to hit the trails at Mount Rainier National Park. (photo: Mark Downey/ State of Washington Tourism)

Join us at Mount Rainier National Park to celebrate Autumn and the Holidays. It’s the perfect way to enjoy the vibrant colors and the crisp air of Autumn. Observe the fascinating world of mushrooms while you are hiking, sample a delightful selection of craft beer and ciders from local breweries, and capture the beauty of the season with stunning photo opportunities all around the park. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast or just looking for a fun weekend getaway, there’s something for everyone. Engage in interactive activities and learn about the diverse ecosystem of Mount Rainier. Meet fellow nature lovers and share your love for the outdoors. Don’t miss this unique opportunity, celebrate with us at Mount Rainier National Park and make unforgettable memories!

Sunriver Resort is the Pacific Northwest’s destination for adventures this fall, just moments from Bend, Oregon. Bike 40+ miles of golden trails, tee off on championship golf courses, savor local flavors at one of our 11+ restaurants, rejuvenate at The Spa, or cozy up for an evening by the fire. Fall is for doing more of what you love at Sunriver Resort.