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RUSTIC, RITZY, MOUNTAINSIDE + OCEANFRONT RESORTS IN THE PNW adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route

PICTURED HERE: Silvies Valley Ranch spa

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Minam River Lodge in Eastern Oregon is not accessible by car, which guarantees a rustic and relaxing time away.



Seattle on the Cheap


Evan Schneider

Pacific Northwest Escapes


Whether it’s water, mountains, ritzy or rustic that you seek, we’ve got the Pacific Northwest’s best resorts and casinos for you to check out. written by OnTrak Magazine Staff

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Keep that bottom line in line with our to-do list in Seattle. written by Sheila G. Miller


Connecting the Coast Oregon’s coastal bridges connect stunning vistas from north to south. photography by Patrick Prothe

easy does it After the morning hike to the falls, we’re happy to settle in and move a little slower. Our paddles plunk in a rhythm, watching for the curved horns of cliff-scaling bighorn sheep. Skiff riders moved faster. The good news is we get to choose our adventure—and share our story back on board.


Columbia & Snake Rivers adventure cruise

Portland, OR to Clarkston, WA (or reverse) • Sep–Oct


small ships, BIG adventures


Departments SPRING 2019





Weekender: Olympia pg. 30

10 Digital

BUSINESS Hands On Children’s Museum

12 Green Biz wants to make working in a shared space as painless as possible.

14 Q&A

Woodland Park Zoo CEO Alejandro Grajal is bringing the zoo into its next iteration—as a leader in conservation.


Vancouver’s Arts Umbrella Dance Company takes dancers from all over and brings them together to make innovative art.

18 Music

For fifty years, Portland’s Music Millennium has brought vinyl, and joy, to music fans. The store is ready for another fifty years.

20 Chef Spotlight

Tucked away above the Clackamas River, Stone Cliff Inn gets rave reviews—but chef Briant Garcia never expected to run the show.

22 Event Calendar

Plan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.

Kids can experience Puget Sound marine life up close at Hands On Children’s Museum in Olympia.

OUTDOORS 26 Athlete

Pickleball continues to gain in popularity. Meet the Mayor of Pickleball.

28 Notes from the Adventure Soon enough, you’ll be able to hike from Corvallis to the coast.

30 Olympia

This Washington city is getting cooler, on its own terms.

34 Southern Oregon Coast Tourism may just replace timber as the top industry for this untapped swath of Oregon Coast.

EXPLORE GUIDE Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop

58 Oregon 61 Washington 64 Vancouver 68 Route Maps 71 Amtrak Cascades News & Notes 72 Parting Shot

67 Exposure

Submit a photo for a chance to win our photo contest.

ON THE COVER: The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch (see pg. 38). PHOTO BY TALIA JEAN GALVIN


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A Note from Us ABOUT THIS TIME every year, I get antsy. I check weather reports for weeks out. I take the Yaktrax off my running shoes. I dawdle on Google maps and plan my next getaway. In our feature, Pacific Northwest Escapes (page 38), we explore trips to resorts in the mountains, on bodies of water, in full glamour and set rustically in remote areas. Indeed, our cover cowboy works at one such rustic getaway—Silvies Valley Ranch. We wrangled him into a chair at the spa for this cover shot by Talia Jean Galvin. If it has been awhile since you’ve descended on Seattle, don’t let money hold you back. Use our guide to Seattle on the Cheap (page 44) to make your return more frugal. After its $100 million makeover, the Space Needle is now one towering reason to pack your bags. Our own frugalist, Sheila G. Miller, hacks the system and delivers the Emerald City for a pittance. Another highlight along the Amtrak Cascades route is the emergent Olympia. The story begins

on page 30 and at the bar at Dillinger’s in downtown Olympia. From there, writer Naomi Tomky plunders the old and new in a block-by-block time travel—from Finders Keepers antiques to 222 Market, a modern farm-to-table lunch spot with an oyster bar. The outdoors are key to all of our destinations and particularly to Olympia. Tumwater Falls Park has hiking trails, waterfalls and history all nicely packaged at the southern reach of Capitol Lake. A little farther west is Capitol State Forest, for 110,000 acres of intrigue. We encourage you to kick back and read about these escapes and then plan your next trip using Amtrak Cascades as your eco-friendly mode of transportation. You have a far better chance of meeting someone new and interesting on the train than in your car. All of that will make your trip feel better. Welcome to the spring issue of OnTrak, and thank you for riding with Amtrak Cascades!

Kevin Max

Editor, OnTrak Magazine


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enjoy relax



The Smart Way to Travel Cruise down the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Unwind, enjoy the scenery, sip Northwest wines or connect to our free wi-fi along the way. Convenient daily service to 18 cities between Vancouver BC and Eugene, including Seattle and Portland.

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Contributors SPRING 2019

Ben McBee

Writer and Photographer— Chef Spotlight (pg. 20)

Serving delicious Pacific Northwest fare, Stone Cliff Inn sits in an outdoor lover’s paradise, bordered by thick evergreens and the Clackamas River. It was easy for me to see why Briant Garcia enjoys coming to work each day. Hearing how he climbed the ranks from dishwasher to executive chef, over many years, left a lasting impression on me.


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Sheila G. Miller

Amira Makansi

Patrick Prothe

My love of travel far outpaces my bank account, so it’s important to find a deal whenever possible. Deal-hunting led my husband and I to the top of the Space Needle at the cheapest time of day, where, while standing on a glass floor, we discovered that our desire for sweeping views is no match for our fear of heights.

I have long been enchanted with the idea of walking on my own two feet from one side of the continent to the other, from coast to coast, sea to sea. When I heard about the modest but still enchanting Corvallis-tothe-Sea trail, which leads from the Willamette River in downtown Corvallis through the coastal mountain range to the Pacific Ocean, I had to see it for myself.

Highway 101 along the Oregon Coast is one of the most beautiful drives in the world, from the top of the state to the bottom. Connecting the communities along the coast is a series of artful bridges mostly designed by Conde McCullough, and built in the 1920s and ’30s. I have been on a quest since 2011 to celebrate these historic bridges. Ever the dreamer, I want to show what’s possible if we slow down, and see what lies before us.

Writer—Seattle on the Cheap (pg. 44)

Writer—Notes From the Adventure (pg. 28)

Photographer—Gallery (pg. 50)

adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak Cascades® route

Editor - Kevin Max Managing Editor - Sheila G. Miller Creative - Allison Bye Web Manager - Aaron Opsahl Office Manager - Cindy Miskowiec Director of Sales - Jenny Kamprath Advertising Account Executives Cindy Guthrie, Jenn Redd Contributing Writers - Alicia Ambrosio, Amira Makansi, Ben McBee, Ben Salmon, Naomi Tomky, Chad Walsh Contributing Photographers - Talia Jean Galvin, Patrick Prothe, Jason Redmond @Amtrak_Cascades @OnTrakMag PUBLISHED BY Statehood Media, LLC 70 SW Century Drive, Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702 541•728•2764 Printed in Canada All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. Articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of Statehood Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.

SPRING 2019 |


Digital Experience SPRING 2019



Dancing Queens

Follow us on Facebook: Follow us on Twitter: @OnTrakMag @Amtrak_Cascades Follow us on Instagram: @OnTrakMag

Michael Slobodian


What Does Your PNW Look Like?

The Arts Umbrella Dance Company offers $10 Sunday performances each month through April. Check out the schedule at

DEALS SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Want more Oregon and Washington? Subscribe to 1859 and 1889 magazines and discover the best the PNW has to offer. Subscribe now and get a year’s subscription to either 1859 or 1889 for only $9.95!

Photo by Autumn Brown

Send us a photo that represents your experience of the Pacific Northwest. You’ll have a chance to be published on the Exposure page of this magazine. Submit your photo to: 10

| SPRING 2019

Meet me in centralia

Explore i n 360

Business 12. Green Biz | 14. Q&A

Gimme Shelter

Portland’s new shared workspace seeks to simplify remote employment WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER


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WHEN OLIVER ALEXANDER answered the phone for a recent interview, he was leaving the loud coffee shop he uses as home base for his startup. Not for long, though. Alexander is in the midst of opening Remote. ly, a new shared workspace in Portland designed to appeal to the worker tired of coffee shops or home offices. He believes he has a winning plan. His frustration started at the University of Oregon. Alexander earned a degree in business with a minor in economics, but “it was just a constant struggle to find a good place to study,” he said. While a student at UO, Alexander and a classmate participated in the Oregon Social Business Challenge, a program that asked aspiring entrepreneurs to figure out a social problem using a for-profit business. Alexander and his classmate Oliver Alexander wants everyone to have a comfortable workspace. got second place in the state, then proceeded to build the company—Orchid Health, a clinic that handles primary care and integrated behavioral meaning you don’t pay for space when you’re health care in rural communities. Today the busi- not there. All members and day-pass holders are ness has thirty employees and clinics in Oakridge guaranteed seats in the space. and Estacada. But back in 2014, Alexander was He found a building outside of downtown Portfaced with a familiar problem—where to work? land, on North Mississippi Avenue in a trendy, “We started at a coffee shop but had issues gentrifying part of town, so parking wouldn’t be with seating, and outlets and wifi,” as much of a problem. Then it was he said. “We ended up with a small time to address the most important n Whe Go office within someone else’s floor part—the coffee situation. There’s a You and that worked for a little bit, but free, in-house barista who not only To get a free day pass there was no real community.” will provide you with drip coffee to, go to The duo ended up renting space and loose-leaf craft tea, but also at a large coworking space, but Alfree, limitless lattes and espressos. and enter your email. exander wasn’t thrilled—his final “You go to the coffee shop to get out straw, he said, was when the womof the house, but you also go to get an working at the front desk removed a bandage good coffee,” Alexander said. “So this eliminated in front of him. “I personally found that less than a reason for not coming to” professional,” he said. Alexander checked out othExtra bonuses include 700 houseplants, outlets er big-name coworking spaces, but all seemed to at every seat, free snacks and printing, reasonbe based in downtown Portland. He didn’t want ably priced breakfast and lunch options, phone to be downtown; plus, he was only in the office booths and conference rooms. about a third of the time—he spent a lot of time The ultimate goal is to replicate—Alexander at home and in coffee shops, fighting for space or plans to start in Portland, then other places that getting lonely. don’t have coworking spaces outside the down“I was completely fed up with dealing with all town areas. these little problems,” he said. “It’s not just freelancers or small business enSo he did something about it. He started Re- trepreneurs” who are seeking shared work, a shared working space that he hopes es, Alexander said. “People who work for U.S. will take all the pain out of the process. Bank or AT&T are working remote too, because offers commitment-free passes. You can get a pri- you get a happier staff who are more productive, vate office or a monthly membership, sure—but but it also means you can cut down on your comyou can also get a $20 day pass ($15 for students), mercial real estate footprint.”

SPRING 2019 |


Tell me about the change in your zoo’s mission. Our new mission is an affirmation of the role of the progressive modern zoo. Our mission squarely tackles the biggest ethical question of our time: Will we as human beings be able to live on this planet sustainably with all of its creatures?


Making Zoos Modern

Meet Alejandro Grajal, Woodland Park Zoo’s president and CEO INTERVIEW BY KEVIN MAX

THIS SPRING, Alejandro Grajal celebrates his third year as CEO of Seattle’s Woodland Park Zoo. In 2016, Grajal, a native of Venezuela, became only the eighth CEO in Woodland Park Zoo’s 119-year history. Grajal spent a long career at the nexus of zoology and conservation—from the senior management at the Brookfield Zoo in Chicago to executive director of Latin American and Caribbean Programs at the National Audubon Society.

How can today’s zoos be agents of social change? We are nothing short of a giant megaphone for animals that otherwise have no voice, but that speak to our hearts and are asking for our help. Today, the world is calling on modern zoos to transform the relationship between people, our planet and all its creatures—to be catalysts for positive social change. That’s a tall order, but we are undaunted as we move forward in uniting all our choices and all our voices to help save animals on our planet. What other changes in wildlife conservation are you working on? We are making a strong emphasis in the Cascade Mountains and the Puget Sound region because we believe in supporting our local home ecosystem. We need to make sure our communities learn that coexisting with wildlife is possible in our own region and ecosystems around the world. Over the next couple of years, we’ll be reinterpreting our award-winning Northern Trail exhibit to discuss the Pacific Northwest and its charismatic animals and plants to engage people in becoming agents of change in our own region.

“We are nothing short of a giant megaphone for animals that otherwise have no voice, but that speak to our hearts and are asking for our help. Today, the world is calling on modern zoos to transform the relationship between people, our planet and all its creatures—to be catalysts for positive social change.” — Alejandro Grajal, president and CEO of Seattle’s Woodland Park Zoo 14

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16. Artist | 18. Musician 20. Chef Spotlight | 22. Events


Jumping For Joy

Arts Umbrella takes dancers a step further WRITTEN BY ALICIA AMBROSIO


| SPRING 2019

David Cooper

Arts Umbrella dancers rehearse a performance.

THE ONLY SOUND in the dance studio at Arts Umbrella is the soft thud of canvas-shod feet touching down on the floor as dancers land their jetés. From the front of the mirrored room Artemis Gordon, artistic director of Arts Umbrella Dance Company, takes in every move and occasionally calls out corrections. The studio is one of many rooms at this nonprofit arts education center on Vancouver’s Granville Island. It is smaller than ideal for the ensemble of about fifty dancers Gordon is rehearsing. Still, it has been home to this pre-professional company since 1986, and its size has not stopped it from earning international attention. About eighty students between the ages of 12 and 20 make up the company. Dancers are hand-picked from Arts Umbrella’s pre-professional and graduate training programs. “Half of them are from somewhere else,” Gordon said. It is Gordon’s philosophy and approach to educating dancers that draws students from near and far and keeps them happily putting in long hours. Most companies pick only dancers with perfect “ballet bodies.” Gordon considers that, but she also puts weight on presence, commitment and talent. “Anything that is genuine, that resonates with other human beings, is the convergence of skills, tone and voice. It can’t be reproduced,” Gordon said. Livona Ellis is a graduate of the Arts Umbrella Dance Company who danced with Ballet BC for eight years. She said Gordon’s approach results in dancers who feel supported and are willing to try new things. “[Gordon] has a vision of what dance can be and what each person in the program can be,” Ellis said. According to Gordon, “Education is the research of skills needed to make moments of art.” That means going beyond the studio—every year, AUDC commissions fifteen to eighteen pieces from well-known, professional choreographers such as Ballet BC’s Emily Molnar, Aszure Barton and Cayetano Soto. The experience helps students prepare for work in the professional dance world. The company also puts on several shows each year which get national attention. The Sunday Afternoon Performances series runs from February to April at various local venues. In May and June, the company produces a show featuring the pieces commissioned during the year. In December, of course, the company performs its take on The Nutcracker. Despite the months of work to put together each show, Gordon said it is a necessary part of her dancers’ education—it’s this approach to educating her students that is putting Vancouver on the dance map. SPRING 2019 |




Portland’s Music Mainstay Music Millennium celebrates fifty years of selling vinyl WRITTEN BY BEN SALMON

ON A LEAFY CORNER of East Burnside Street, Music Millennium has been faithfully selling vinyl records to Portland music lovers for a full five decades. Owner Terry Currier has been there for the last thirty-five of those fifty years. And contrary to popular belief, his time at Millennium, as he calls the 5,500-square-foot shop, hasn’t been all doom and gloom, even as record stores across the country have closed in the face of competition from big box chains, digital downloads and online streaming services. “Record stores are in better shape now than they were ten years ago,” Currier said. “There’s going to be vinyl customers in the future. It’s still not a completely easy road, but we have a little breathing space now.” In March, Music Millennium celebrated its fiftieth birthday with a ceremonial spin of the Beatles’ “All Too Much” (the first song played in the store in 1969) and a concert at the Aladdin Theater. The shop proudly claims to be the oldest existing record store in the Pacific Northwest, but it didn’t get where it is today without a lot of creative ideas, some trial and error, and a little luck. Don MacLeod, his wife Loreen and his brother-in-law Dan Lissy opened the store on March 15, 1969, in 800 square feet of space that now houses part of Millennium’s vinyl section. They sold the business in 1979, but took it back over in 1984 before the new owners could shut it down. Around that time, Currier showed up, looking for a job to help support his insatiable appetite for vinyl. Over the next three years, Music Millennium paid down significant debt, Currier said, thanks in large part to adding smoking paraphernalia to the shop’s offerings. “It had high profit margins, so it helped us catch up quick,” he said. “When the debt went away, we quit selling it.” That period of growth kicked off seventeen straight years of increasing business, Currier said. Around 2001, howev18

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Music Millennium is the oldest existing record store in the Pacific Northwest.

er, downloads forever altered the store’s landscape. By then, Currier owned the company, and had done of number of things to strengthen Millennium’s position in a struggling industry. In 1989, he built a permanent stage and sound system to host live performances, which now number between 100 and 150 annually. In 1995, he started the Coalition of Independent Music Stores, which, in 2007, helped create Record Store Day, an annual celebration of record shops that brings in throngs of vinyl lovers and always generates valuable press. “The media had painted a picture that record stores were going away and there weren’t going to be any more record stores in America,” Currier said. “We’re able to say, ‘Wait a minute! There are 1,800 of us still out here.’ And the public went, ‘Oh wow, there’s still record stores and there’s still records.’” In the meantime, interest in vinyl records—the most popular format of the ’60s and ’70s, before CDs came along—has surged in the past decade. Sales of new vinyl, once a tiny fraction of the business at Music Millennium, now make up more than half of total sales, Currier said. Last year, the shop’s top-selling record was Fleetwood Mac’s 1977 mega-hit Rumours. Add it all up, and you can see why Currier is bullish on Music Millennium as it enters its second half-century in Portland. “The best thing about record stores right now is the same as the best thing about record stores fifty years ago—they’re selling vinyl again, which is the best listening format for the warmth and quality of sound,” he said. “Record stores are little community centers again, like they used to be. Sure, you can go on the Internet and find a particular piece of vinyl, but there’s nothing like going into a record store, digging into a bin and getting into a conversation with the clerk who’s working here because they’re passionate about music. When you go to a good record store, it’s an experience.”

Chef Spotlight

Destination Dining

Briant Garcia put in the time, starting as a dishwasher, and now is the executive chef of Stone Cliff Inn.

Briant Garcia built a successful culinary career from scratch WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY BEN MCBEE

COOKING WAS NEVER a huge part of Briant Garcia’s family life, and for a long time working in a kitchen was just a steady job. Today, however, he is the executive chef at Stone Cliff Inn, the log cabin destination restaurant in the sleepy timber town of Carver, outside of Clackamas, Oregon. Authority wasn’t something he sought. But when his daughter was born, Garcia’s life changed. His interest in food developed into a passion, and he began to pay more attention under a variety of mentors. “They were always willing to teach me because I was always willing to learn,” Garcia said. “I would stay after work an hour and a half just talking to them about stuff, almost every day.” In 2005, he found himself in an idyllic place to train. Perched high above the Clackamas River on the site of an old quarry, Stone Cliff ’s beautiful Douglas fir façade sits in an outdoor paradise. The lodge’s owners saw potential in him early. Garcia turned down initial opportunities to climb the ladder from sous chef to his current position, where he remains humble and appreciative of his journey. For holidays, anniversaries or simply a hankering for the delectable bread pudding, people come from near and far to enjoy Garcia and his tightly knit crew’s delicious Pacific Northwest-inspired and locally sourced American cuisine. “It’s amazing how many smiles you can put on people’s faces,” he said. “That’s what it is for me—it’s not all about the money, it’s about how people feel.” Fourteen years later, Garcia would be happy to finish his career where it really took off, continually improving his craft and tutoring others. “I started as a dishwasher a long time ago,” he said. “You have to put the time in to achieve what you want.”

“It’s amazing how many smiles you can put on people’s faces. That’s what it is for me … it’s about how people feel.” — Briant Garcia 20

| SPRING 2019

Savor the Skagit



Discover Eugene’s Original Winery

We handcraft distinctive Pinot Noir with passion and intention.

open daily 12-5 pm

27012 Briggs Hill Road | Eugene 97405 | 541.345.1945 |

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OREGON CITY WINE WALK Liberty Plaza May 1 $20 This event runs from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., with ten downtown businesses collaborating with regional wineries to provide samples. You can buy wine you taste on site by the glass or bottle. Pick up your souvenir wine glass, then wander the downtown area with a map and help raise money for the Downtown Oregon City Association.

Kathleen Nyberg


SOUL’D OUT MUSIC FESTIVAL Multiple venues April 16-21 $255.50 for all-access pass This festival was founded in 2010 and has been rocking ever since. Past headliners have included Erykah Badu, De La Soul and Wyclef Jean, and venues around the city support the event, from the Doug Fir Lounge to the Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall.

UFO Fest

McMenamins Hotel Oregon May 16-18 Free

Each May, the famous three-day UFO Festival brings believers to McMinnville. The event, sponsored by McMenamins, includes a UFO parade (including pets in costume), live music, a 5K run, and featured speakers who talk about the phenomenon. Eugene

CHEF’S NIGHT OUT Hult Center for the Performing Arts April 8 $65-98.50 Dozens of restaurants, wineries and others come together at the 29th Annual Chefs Night Out to raise money for FOOD for Lane County. Presented by King Estate Winery, this event allows you to sample food and drink from all your favorites with 100 percent of the proceeds going to benefit the food bank. EUGENE MARATHON & HALF MARATHON Downtown Eugene April 28 $25-150 Whether you’re running the 5K, half marathon or full marathon, this race finishes in Autzen Stadium before a crowd of fans. The new course runs through downtown Eugene and the event has long been considered a favorite by Oregonians.


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THE BIG O INTERNATIONAL ROLLER DERBY TOURNAMENT Lane Events Center May 3-5 $25-60 If you’ve never seen a roller derby match, you’re missing out. The Big O is an international event hosted by the Emerald City Roller Derby with women’s, men’s and junior teams from around the world competing for early-season glory. EUGENE FOOD TRUCK FEST Lane Events Center June 29 $3 Get ready for music, a Kids Zone and a tasting competition, not to mention forty-five food trucks on hand at this annual festival. You’ll find everything from Vietnamese to vegan food on sale at food trucks. Admission goes to help the Eugene Mission.


ALBANY SPRING HOME & GARDEN SHOW Linn County Fair & Expo Center April 26-28 Free Get prepping on your 2019 yard goals with this longtime garden and home show. Displays include backyard decking and fencing, as well as indoor improvements like custom kitchens and garages. Giveaways run throughout the day and local nurseries run a plant sale throughout the weekend. LINN COUNTY PIONEER PICNIC Pioneer Park, Brownsville June 21-23 Free events What started in 1887 as a reunion of Oregon Trail pioneers has become Oregon’s longestrunning celebration, with a parade, a Pioneer Dam Run, as well as games, pie-eating and more.

WOODEN SHOE TULIP FESTIVAL Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm Through April 29 $5 Wander rows and rows of tulips with Mt. Hood as a backdrop at the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm during its monthlong tulip festival. Dogs are welcome, and you can bring your own lunch or buy onsite, and you can grab a glass of wine from Wooden Shoe Vineyards as you check out the colorful, 40-acre farm.

GEEKCRAFT EXPO Oregon Convention Center June 22-23 Free Say it loud and say it proud––I am a geek! This event, described as a mall for geeks and a cross between Etsy and ComicCon, brings vendors who specialize in nerdy handmade items. With an emphasis on superheroes, gaming and local makers, there’s something for everyone. There are also crafting activities. WORLD NAKED BIKE RIDE Starting location to be announced June 29 Free, donations accepted Among the most Portland of Portland events, the World Naked Bike Ride takes place each June in an attempt to raise awareness about both the vulnerability of cyclists and our world’s dependence on oil. The free event’s route is not announced ahead of time, and the event has grown since 2004 to more than 8,000 riders a year. PORTLAND INTERNATIONAL BEERFEST Pearl District North Park Blocks June 28-30 $30-45 for weekend passes This three-day specialty beer festival brings beers and ciders from around the world to the streets of Portland. Hard-to-find sips, exotic flavors and even the classic greats are on tap at this event. Bonus—some of the money raised goes to animal welfare groups around Portland.

ROSE FESTIVAL GRAND FLORAL PARADE Memorial Coliseum to downtown Portland June 8 Free, $15-30 for reserved seating This is the granddaddy of them all. The Rose Festival goes on for several weeks every May and June, with dragon boat races, parades, concerts and more. But the biggest parade of all is the Grand Floral and the floats on display.


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Cascade Bicycle Club

Pyramid Alehouse May 26 $18-40

Get your shot at riding your bike through the brand new SR99 tunnel for the Emerald City Ride 2019. The tunnel will be open, car free, as riders head north through the tunnel and then pedal through Fremont and stop in Gas Works Park for food before taking the I-5 express lanes back to the finish line. Souvenirs are available for all who register. Vancouver

SPRING BREWFEST Esther Short Park April 12-13 $10-20 Celebrate the change of the seasons with a trip to the park and a few sips of suds. Dozens of local brewers will be on hand to celebrate craft brewing. TALL SHIPS VISIT VANCOUVER Vancouver Landing May 10-13 $5 to tour, $49-79 to sail Head to Vancouver Landing to see Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftain, two tall ships that visit dozens of ports on the West Coast each year. You can tour the vessels while they’re docked for a suggested $5 donation, or you can head out on a two-hour sailing excursion for a bit more.


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WONDERFUL WURLITZER The Washington Center For The Performing Arts June 6 Free This free organ concert brings out the Andy Crow Wurlitzer Organ for some of your mostloved songs, including classics, by Sharon Stearnes. These organs used to be all over the place, but these days a chance to hear one in action is relatively rare, so check it out.

WASHINGTON BREWERS FESTIVAL King County’s Marymoor Park June 14-16 $25-35 Get into the beer mood over Father’s Day weekend with the Washington Beer Commission’s brewers festival. This all-ages event features more than 500 beers from more than a hundred Washington breweries, as well as live music, food trucks, wine and cider and a root beer tent.



SAKURA-CON Washington State Convention Center April 19-21 $65-80 The oldest and most-well attended anime convention in the Pacific Northwest is put on each year by the Asia Northwest Cultural Education Association. The event features gaming, cosplay, dances, concerts and many industry guests. It also has more than 100,000 square feet of exhibit halls.

Emerald City Ride

DOZER DAY Clark County Event Center at the Fairgrounds May 18-19 $8-10 Real, heavy-construction equipment is on hand for kids to sit in and drive (with the help of a professional operator, of course). Excavators, bulldozers, fire engines and ambulance and other big rigs are available, along with educational opportunities.

THE GREAT RACE GRAND FINALE LeMay - America’s Car Museum June 30 Free Vintage cars will compete in a multiday race from Riverside, California to Tacoma, with the LeMay as the finish line. The event has been going on since 1983, and the prize money this year totals $150,000. A wide variety of drivers and vehicles make this a must-see.


WASHINGTON STATE PUYALLUP SPRING FAIR Washington State Fair Event Center April 11-14 Free It’s almost spring, so head out to a springtime fair with rides and a barbecue contest. The event will also feature baby animals, free entertainment like garden workshops, an agricultural exhibit and, for a ticketed additional cost, Motorsport Mayhem shows. GIG HARBOR BEER FESTIVAL Uptown Gig Harbor May 18 $25-30 This event raises money for the local Kiwanis Foundation. It runs from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. and sells out each year. Armed with your 5-ounce taster cup, eight beer tokens and a program, then chart your course through the delicious offerings.

SEATTLE MODERN HOME TOUR Multiple locations April 27 $50 Drive yourself on this modern home tour through Seattle. Go inside modern homes and talk to the architects, designers and others who made these homes a reality.

ALL-COMERS TRACK AND FIELD Civic Stadium June 10 $5 Every Monday evening through August 26, the city offers track meets for people young and old. Kids 4 and under participate in the 50-meter dash and 50-meter hurdles, then the track meet runs through heats for children and adults in events as diverse as shot put, javelin and running races. Don’t miss the Jogger’s Mile, when participants guess their times and run without a watch at each meet, then win prizes if they predict correctly.

BACON AND BEER CLASSIC Safeco Field May 4 $65-115 seattletickets With more than a hundred beers on draft from breweries around the Pacific Northwest, you’re already happy. Then you add more than thirty bacon dishes from local chefs, a bacon-eating contest, games and music, and this is an event you’ll want to line up for. HONK! FEST WEST Multiple locations May 31-June 2 Free This nonprofit, free community music festival features wild street band performances all over the greater Seattle area in public places like parks and streets. More than twenty-five bands participate in this fun and friendly festival.


JOHN CLEESE Queen Elizabeth Theatre May 25 C$85-325 Comedy king John Cleese, member of “Monty Python’s Flying Circus” and star of “Fawlty Towers,” will present a talk about his life, politics and the world with his traditional humor.

Vancouver Sun Run

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL Granville Island May 27-June 2 C$12.50+ This multidisciplinary event featuring theater, music, dance and other art forms was the first of its kind in North America, and it seeks to inspire kids with performance and fun. Performances include a retelling of Macbeth, concerts and French-language shows.

Vancouver Sun Run Burrard & Georgia streets April 14 C$49-70

Canada’s largest 10K race features a course that runs through the downtown area, then to Stanley Park and across Cambie Street Bridge. After the run, head inside BC Place for a wrap party. VANCOUVER CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL Multiple locations April 4-28 Prices vary Celebrate spring by getting outside and surveying the beauty around you. The city’s cherry blossom festival has walking tours, a Japanese culture festival, a bike trip, a field guide, even Cherry Jam Downtown, a noontime concert on April 4.

WHISTLER SKI & SNOWBOARD FESTIVAL Whistler Blackcomb April 10-14 Free This event serves as an opportunity to get up close and personal with some of the best in snow sports. The festival includes free outdoor concerts, ski and snowboard demos, and competitions all over the mountain.

SPRING LIGHTS Stanley Park Japanese Monument April 11 Free Spring Lights is a free event put on by Hfour, a company that creates art installations. The project illuminates the city park with projections, light sculptures and more.

DOXA FESTIVAL Multiple venues May 2-12 C$11-115 Run each year by the Vancouver nonprofit Documentary Media Society, this festival features short and full-length documentaries shown at venues all over the city. Other special programs, like filmmaker panels, are also available.

BMO VANCOUVER MARATHON Queen Elizabeth Park May 5 Prices vary The BMO Vancouver Marathon is touted as one of the best races in the world, thanks to its scenic vistas and the fact that it’s a qualifier for the Boston Marathon. If you’re not up for a marathon, there are several other race lengths. Or be a spectator—the race winds through the city. STARS ON ICE 2019 Rogers Arena May 16 C$21-90 Team Canada wowed the ice skating competition at the last Winter Olympics, and now is your chance to see the stars in action. Medalists performing include Patrick Chan, a threetime world champion, and Kaetlyn Osmond, who won the bronze in ladies’ singles.

CHER HERE WE GO AGAIN TOUR Rogers Arena May 30 C$66-351 Cher takes her legendary music on the road through western Canada. The show spans her career to her current album, Dancing Queen, which features covers of ABBA hits.

CONCORD PACIFIC DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL Concord Pacific Place June 21-23 Free www.concorddragonboatfestival. ca This festival has it all—kidfriendly activities, music, art installations and performances, plus a ton of great dragon boat racing. Held on False Creek, this event features competitive racing with more than 6,000 racers from around the world. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL GUITAR FESTIVAL Creekside Community Centre June 29-30 C$15-40 www.vancouverguitarfestival. com The third annual festival will feature live music and master classes with those who build, play and collect guitars. This is your chance to see some of the world’s best handmade instruments.

BARD ON THE BEACH Vanier Park June 5-Sept. 21 Prices vary Get into the Shakespeare spirit with this festival, which is celebrating its thirtieth year. The event features four productions on two stages, including a WildWest version of The Taming of the Shrew, as well as Shakespeare in Love. There will also be two new productions—All’s Well That Ends Well set in India, and Coriolanus, a political tragedy. VANCOUVER CRAFT BEER WEEK FESTIVAL PNE Grounds June 8-9 C$35-140 www.vancouvercraftbeerweek. com Entering its tenth year, this festival started as a small event with fifteen breweries. Today, more than a hundred breweries and cideries are on hand pouring, both from British Columbia and beyond.

SPRING 2019 |



26. Athlete | 28. Notes from the Adventure

In a Pickle

Roger BelAir extols the virtues of pickleball WRITTEN BY CHAD WALSH PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON REDMOND

ROGER BELAIR Age: 72 Hometown: Edmonds, WA Achievements: BelAir conducts pickleball clinics for guests at world-class resorts and maximum security prisons. He introduced pickleball to Chicago’s Cook County Jail as a means of reducing violence and teaching “life skills.” The program has led to teaching in prisons from New York City to Alaska.


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LET’S FACE IT—many of us spend our days with our noses buried in our phones so we don’t have to engage with other strangers who (again, let’s face it), are probably doing the same thing. You might even be reading this on your phone. At a time when our best leaders are asking us to leave our news silos and political echo chambers and reach out to one another, there seems to be no clear path to do so. So how do we get out of this pickle? That’s where Seattleite Roger BelAir comes in. BelAir is a banker-turned-investor-turned-author-turned public speaker. It’s safe to say he could also be considered the Mayor of Pickleball, a game invented as a lark on Bainbridge Island in 1965, now said to be the country’s fastest growing sport. For the uninitiated, pickleball is sort of like mini-tennis, incorporating elements of doubles tennis, table tennis and badminton. The courts are smaller, the rules are many but easy to learn and the equipment—oversized table tennis rackets and one plastic Wiffle ball—is affordable. And it’s arguably more fun than the three sports that birthed it. BelAir’s points out that the game was played on only thirtynine courts in 2003. Today, more than 3 million people are playing on more than 6,000 courts around the United States. And while BelAir stresses that playing pickleball is good for our health, he argues it’s also good for our collective mental health. “I don’t know of any sport more social that this,” BelAir said. “Most people go to the courts by themselves and sit on the sidelines until it’s their time in the rotation to play. You play a twelve-minute game, go to the back of the line and wait your turn for another match. It’s common to play with and against fifteen strangers on a given day. It’s only natural that relationships are built. Those relationships can evolve into friendships, and sometimes friendships can turn into very good friendships.” While the recreational game is popular among Arizona retirees and Seattle millennials, it’s now reaching new populations who’ve come to embrace its small joys. After watching a 60 Minutes report documenting the grim conditions at Chicago’s Cook County Jail, BelAir reached out to the jail’s weary warden, who agreed to let him introduce the game to even more weary inmates. After a few short lessons, BelAir said “guys who don’t have much to do besides play cards, watch TV and get in each other’s faces” were laughing like children during the jail’s new pickleball tournaments. They were quick converts, BelAir said. Playing pickleball grants those inmates a small respite while they await trial on very serious charges. BelAir said he would love to see every able-bodied person interested in pickleball give it a shot. He has taught well over 700 people how to play since he picked up his own racket. But his ultimate goal is to show people that playing the game with strangers (and maybe soon-to-be friends) is good for our mental health, which can in turn improve the collective emotional health of our own communities.

FROM TOP People play pickleball at the Bitter Lake Community Center in Seattle. Pickleball, a game invented on Bainbridge Island in 1965, is said to be the country’s fastest growing sport.

“It’s common to play with and against fifteen strangers on a given day. It’s only natural that relationships are built. Those relationships can evolve into friendships, and sometimes friendships can turn into very good friendships.” — Roger BelAir SPRING 2019 |


Notes from the Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN

On the Trail

Hiking from Corvallis to the sea WRITTEN BY AMIRA MAKANSI

Unlike some of the other long trails in Oregon, the C2C Trail features a lot of solitude.

THERE IS SOMETHING alluring about the idea of hiking from one place to another without interruption. From the Pacific Crest to the Continental Divide to the Appalachian, hikers in America have tested their mettle against trails that span thousands of miles and traverse the breadth of the country. But you need not walk from Mexico to Canada or Georgia to Maine to achieve the sense of satisfaction that comes from crossing a great distance on your own two feet. Soon, hikers will be able to walk from the heart of the Willamette Valley to the Oregon Coast on a 60-mile stretch of uninterrupted trail. The Corvallis-to-the-Sea Trail Partnership has finished construction on the first half of a trail that will lead—as the name indicates—from downtown Corvallis through the coastal mountain range and finish at the Oregon Coast just north of Seal Rock. Parts of the trail will be accessible to equestrians and bicyclists as well. At present, only the first 30 miles have been built, much of them along existing bike paths, sidewalks and county roads. In the fall of 2018, the trail partnership received a twenty-year permit from the U.S. Forest Service to build and maintain the latter half of the trail, and the partnership expects to open the second half no later than the spring of 2020. 28

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“There’s that sensation of nearing the coast on your own two legs,” said Gary Chapman, president of the Corvallisto-the-Sea Trail Partnership. “You can smell it, you can feel it in the air. Arriving at the coast, taking your boots off, walking in the surf. It’s a definitive experience.” To him, the idea of being able to walk out his door in Corvallis and onto a stretch of trail that leads through the vast, largely unknown history of the coastal mountains and arrive at the end point of America, flush with saline air and salt spray— that is magic. I wanted a taste of that magic. Like most Oregonians with a thirst for the outdoors, my summer months are

Volunteers do trail maintenance.

spent with my camping gear in my car, my backpack neatly packed, my camp stove and camera always ready to go. So, one three-day weekend in September, I drove to Corvallis to do a day hike of the Corvallis-to-the-Sea trail, C2C, with an old friend. The section we picked is a part of the Corvallis watershed, paralleling Woods Creek Road. The territory is all protected growth. The light filtered through the trees, pale yellow and evanescent green in the dry season of this temperate rainforest. My companion, a longtime Corvallis resident and an avid backpacker, identified trees and plants as we walked. The biodiversity astounded me. Vine maple, salal, ocean spray and myriad edible berries—black cap raspberry, trailing blackberry, filberts, elderberry, salmonberry, rosehips, Oregon grape, thimbleberry and huckleberry—bunched together in the undergrowth with sword and maidenhead ferns, arrowhead plants and wood sorrel (I couldn’t stop snacking on those lemony leaves). Overhead loomed Douglas fir, hemlock, oak and alder. The Corvallis-to-the-Sea trail doesn’t have the same sweeping vistas or grand mountains you’d find in the Cascades. But it has two distinct advantages. First—for many, it’s close. Residents of Corvallis can be in the wild

tions of the trail in ten to fifteen minutes, and from the surrounding areas it might take you an hour. Second—it’s less crowded. As anyone who has visited the Cascades in recent years knows, the sweeping vistas and grand mountains draw crowds, from PCT thru-hikers to ambitious Instagram photographers to Portlanders in various shades of Subaru. Not so with the C2C. My hiking buddy and I spent half a day on the trail and saw exactly four other people—all walking a different trail, up to the summit of Mary’s Peak. That was on one of the most accessible stretches. Farther into the Coast Range, I would have been surprised to see a single soul. There’s more than meets the eye on this trail, with or without a knowledgeable plant guide to inform your hike. “There’s a lot of history out there,” Chapman said. “Much of the trail goes across old homesteads [from the nineteenth century] that have been lost because people couldn’t make any money out there. Those lands eventually became national forest.” Look carefully and you might find evidence of Oregon’s early homesteaders, whose tenacity contributed so much of the character of this state—and, in the search, you may happen across a patch of tasty mushrooms. In either case, you’ll be the richer for it. SPRING 2019 |



Small-Town Stunner


Olympia is on the path to a renaissance, at its own pace

Olympia is a quiet corner of the I-5 corridor, with scenic views and good coffee. 30

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Ingrid Barrentine/ Grit City Photography


SITTING AT THE BAR at Dillinger’s, the upscale cocktail bar built in an old bank building, I asked my bartender, Donny Drake, what Olympia was missing. “Lots and lots of people,” he answered. As the I-5 corridor’s big cities grow up, Olympia has quietly and consistently kept its core intact. Washington’s capital remains the same as it’s been for years, now with a few fancier trappings (like the cocktail bar). You can still duck into bars and listen to bands that might someday be famous—the future Sleater-Kinney, Bikini Kill or The Gossip, but now you can pre-game with oysters shucked to order. The town’s beers include those made from artesian well water, but mass-market pale ale is out and microbrewery IPAs have taken its place. As Olympia gradually gives itself a makeover in the mirrors of Seattle and Portland—gaining a food hall, a food truck pod and a cutting-edge coffee roastery—it’s in no hurry. The town of just more than 50,000 people refurbishes historic buildings into modern uses, offers reinventions of businesses that have been around for years— like the farmers market, which has been going on for more than forty years—and welcomes newcomers to see the old stuff, be it in antique malls or historic landmarks. Olympia’s coffee scene, like so many in the Northwest, is world-class, starting with the flagship Olympia Coffee Roasting Co. The downtown location, opened in 2015, shares its obsession with coffee quality through the glasswalled roastery and in every cup. The city has a walkable trail of shops through downtown. Start just up the block from the roastery at Finders Keepers Antique Mall, where forty booths sell everything from high-end dinnerware to heaps of old buttons. If that’s not enough, within a few blocks are the Courtyard Antique Mall, Antique Junkie and Peacock Vintage. For lunch, return to the modern era with a stop at 222 Market, the food hall that follows the national trend to bring marquee restaurants and food shops under a single roof. Chelsea Farms, a second-generation family business, brings its fresh bivalves straight from the source to its oyster bar here.

EAT Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar oyster-bar Our Table our-table Nineveh Assyrian El Pulgarcito The Mouse Trap Old School Pizzeria

STAY The Governor Hotel Swantown Inn & Spa Hilton Garden Inn

PLAY Tumwater Falls Park Olympia Farmers Market Capitol Building Hands On Children’s Museum Little Creek Casino Resort

FROM LEFT The Mouse Trap offers a five-course brunch. The Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar in 222 Market has oysters shucked to order.

Olympia Beer started bragging about its well water-brewed beer in 1896, and the legacy—and slogan, “It’s the water”—remain prominent today. Well 80 Brewhouse promotes the strongest ties to the well-water roots of Olympia beer, and the enormous restaurant caters to families. Three Magnets, a few blocks away, has more of a traditional taproom feel and the best beers by far. For those willing to go farther afield, Top Rung, in Lacey, is worth the trip. From there, head out for a taste of nature and history at Tumwater Falls Park, a quick ten-minute drive south from the market. The 15-acre park offers short trails starting at the falls themselves, with native plants labeled, historic building markers and footbridges. Look up to see the original Olympia Brewery building. Stop at one

of the benches and dig into your picnic supplies from the market before heading back into town. Or take a leisurely Sunday stroll to Dillinger’s next-door neighbor, The Mouse Trap, for a five-course brunch. The small, reservations-only meals aren’t a secret, but they fly under the radar—even though they have some of the best food in town. If you have little ones with you, reward them for their patience with a stop into the Hands On Children’s Museum. Olympia’s kids museum trumps both the Seattle and Portland versions and is worth a trip on its own, with crafts, local-themed activities and elaborate water exhibits. Older kids and adults can skip that in favor of a trip to the state capitol building, which offers free daily tours.

As Olympia gradually gives itself a makeover in the mirrors of Seattle and Portland, it’s in no hurry. The town of just more than 50,000 people refurbishes historic buildings into modern uses, offers reinventions of businesses that have been around for years and welcomes newcomers to see the old stuff. 32

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160 110

FRANCISCO, stroke survivor.

THIS IS WHAT HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE LOOKS LIKE. You might not see or feel its symptoms, but the results – a heart attack or stroke – are far from invisible or silent. If you’ve come off your treatment plan, get back on it, or talk with your doctor to create a new exercise, diet and medication plan that works better for you. Go to before it’s too late.


Locked In For Adventure

Cruising “Oregon’s Adventure Coast” WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER

Shore Acres State Park has excellent views of the rocky coastline.

IN ALL MY YEARS as an Oregonian, I had hardly set foot on the Southern Oregon Coast except to drive through on my way elsewhere. That changed this fall, when I spent a few days checking out Coos Bay, North Bend and Charleston. This area of the coast, like other parts of Oregon, was greatly impacted by the timber industry. In 1947, just three years after Coos Bay gave up Marshfield as its name, The Oregonian called the city the “Lumber Capital of the World.” As all Oregonians know, that came to an abrupt end in the 1980s and the area has been searching for its next big thing ever since. Based on my experience this fall, that next thing could very well be tourism. The area has an abundance of outdoors opportunities and vistas that simply can’t be seen in other parts of the state. Newcomers to the Southern Oregon Coast must visit the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. It’s one of the largest areas of temperate coastal sand dunes in the world, and the sheer breadth of it must be seen to be believed. I enlisted the help of Spinreel Dune Buggy & ATV Rentals 34

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and took a tour as a passenger. There’s really no other way to put it—it was so fun. We zoomed up and down dunes and along tiny trails through beach grass. Once I finished my dune buggy tour, I thought I’d better check out the dunes on foot. At John Dellenback Dunes Trail, I felt like I was in something of a moonscape. You can also try the Bluebill Trail at Horsfall Beach for a different view. Exhausted, it was time for a rest. I checked in at Bay Point Landing, a new luxury property of RV sites and tiny cabins in Coos Bay. My cabin had wifi and cable television and a view of the water. It was a quiet, comfortable respite from my many outdoor adventures. The cabin felt much bigger than it appeared at first blush. For dinner, I went to 7 Devils Brewing Company. This hotspot is a bright star in a still redeveloping downtown—it was packed and live music was playing. While the public house has a small menu, it’s a good one, with fish that was clearly fresh and local, likely right out of the bay. The pub offers to-go beer, and throughout my weekend I found 7 Devils on tap nearly everywhere I went.


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EAT Tokyo Bistro 7 Devils Brewery Sharkbites High Tide Wildflour Cafe

The Mill Casino Hotel & RV Park Bay Point Landing Itty Bitty Inn Best Western Holiday Hotel Edgewater Inn edgewater-inn-coos-bay

Photos: Courtesy of Coos Bay-North Bend VCB


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Golden and Silver Falls State Park feels a world away from the nearby coast. Cruise the Oregon Dunes National Scenic Area. South Coast Tours offers kayaking and other trips.

Coos Bay Manor

PLAY Spinreel Dune Buggy & ATV Rentals Golden & Silver Falls State Park Shore Acres State Park Cape Arago State Park South Coast Tours The Mill Casino Hotel & RV Park


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The next day, it was time for a quick walk along Bastendorff Beach. I was too late to see any morning surfers, but I did have the beach nearly to myself and a great view up and down the coast. A bit farther down the coastline at Sunset Bay, I took a kayak tour with South Coast Tours, which leads kayak, fishing, standup paddleboarding and other tours (including some that are van-based, if you’d prefer a little less of the outdoors). Just up the road is Shore Acres State Park, which is perched on a huge cliff overlooking the ocean. The property was once owned by a timber baron, and extensive gardens still sit on the land here. If you’ve planned ahead with binoculars, make sure to stop at Simpson Reef Overlook. From the overlook you can spy seals and sea lions lounging about on the rocks of Shell Island just offshore. Then it was off to Cape Arago State Park, which is literally the end of the road. It has some lovely

trails, including one that connects you to a beach filled with driftwood and tidepools. The Golden & Silver Falls State Park is 26 winding and, toward the end, unpaved miles from Coos Bay. It takes nearly an hour to get there, but the serenity is well worth the drive. Tucked away up different short trails are two waterfalls (you guessed it, Golden Falls and Silver Falls). The day I visited, the trees towering over the paths cast the trail in a pleasant shadow and only a few other visitors were around. The crashing waves I’d watched earlier that day felt a world away. Finally, I finished my evening with a trip to The Mill Casino in North Bend. The casino, run by the Coquille Indian Tribe, is very clearly the place to be on a weekend night. The casino was packed, as was the sports bar inside. It feels more high end than the average Oregon casino, with thoughtful finishes.


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Escapes Pacific Northwest

Oregon and Washington show off their best resorts WRITTEN BY ONTRAK MAGAZINE STAFF


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ONE OF THE GREAT JOYS of the Pacific Northwest is its variety. You can start in a big city in the morning and feel far away by late afternoon. The same can be said for our resorts. They are many and varied, just like this gorgeous place. We can’t pick favorites—it wouldn’t be right. Instead, we curated a list of spots you might want to check out depending on what you’re looking for. Maybe the goal is to watch the snow settle on the mountains, or to hear the water lapping at your feet. Whether ritzy or rustic (or a little bit of both), we’ve got you covered.


In the Mountains

Sometimes the mountains just pull you in. Even if you’re not a winter sports enthusiast eager to strap on your board and head into the wilderness, there’s plenty to Quick Hit do around these parts year round. Or you can Sun Mountain curl up next to a roarLodge Methow ing fire—whatever you Valley need, these places have $218+ Sleeping Lady it in spades. Resort Head into the Methow Leavenworth Valley, tucked into the $253+ foothills of the North Minam River Lodge Cascades, and start at Eagle Cap Sun Mountain Lodge. If Wilderness you’re a cross-country $208+ skier, make first tracks on the trails here. If you’re a hiker or mountain biker, there are tons of choices here, too. If you’re none of those things, no worries—the lodge

has a spa, a game room, horseback riding, and a beaver pond where you and the kids can look for beavers making their dams. This is the kind of place that allows for as much or as little activity as you might want. If you’re a big fan of mountain meadows, craggy mountains and really, really good food, Sleeping Lady Resort in Leavenworth is a good bet. It may look rustic, but thought has been put into every detail. The majority of resort reservations include breakfast and dinner at the Kingfisher Restaurant, with tons of locally sourced food, and there’s a play barn on site with pool, board games and table tennis. By now, you’ve heard of Minam River Lodge in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. This secluded spot in eastern Oregon isn’t easy to access, but that’s the point. Once you get here, by air, foot or horseback, you will have the types of options that make sense in a spot so far off the grid—horseback rides, endless hikes and whitewater rafting. One of the most unexpected parts of this spot is its meals—intimate, family-style and filled with fresh, local ingredients. The meals foster a sense of community even when you’re far from paved roads, and that alone is worth the trip. SPRING 2019 |



On the Water

Alderbrook Resort & Spa

The Pacific Northwest is that lucky place with water in all its forms, from thrashing waves to glassy stillness. By extension, the area also has resorts up against many of those Quick Hit great bodies of water. We benefit from the reSemiahmoo gion’s beautiful diversity. Resort Blaine Semiahmoo Resort $169+ Golf & Spa is a resort Salishan in the grandest sense. Gleneden This place is huge—300 Beach $159+ acres at the tip of the Alderbrook Semiahmoo Spit in Resort & Spa Blaine, just south of Union $159+ the Canadian border. Thanks to a partnership with Outer Island Excursions, you can take a whale-watching tour or charter a fishing boat that leaves

straight from the resort. Rent a bike, paddleboard or other outdoor gear from the beach activities center, or just hang close to home with great dining and a spa. It’s hard work keeping a coastal resort looking good—the wind and the rain of the Oregon Coast can weather even the newest buildings. Salishan went into bankruptcy and receivership in 2015 and was bought by a group that has invested millions of dollars into a renovation and reimagination of the resort. It still has the tennis courts and the Peter Jacobson-designed golf course, but today Salishan is encouraging eco-tourism like kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. The resort is also focusing on wellness with yoga and a fullservice spa. And don’t forget Alderbrook Resort & Spa, which is only two hours from Seattle and stands proud along the Hood Canal. The scenery is beautiful, there’s a nearby golf course, and the on-site restaurant is pretty much the epitome of fine dining. Add in comfortable rooms and sixteen cottages that are perfect for family gatherings, and you’ve got the makings of a great getaway.


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FROM LEFT Alderbrook Resort & Spa is luxury on the Hood Canal. Salish Lodge & Spa sits above Snoqualmie Falls. Barking Frog takes fresh, fine dining to extremes at Willows Lodge.

Salish Lodge & Spa


A Dash of Ritzy

Willows Lodge in Woodinville is a bit of an anomaly because it’s so close to Seattle and the bustle of city life, and yet once you set foot inside, you feel a world away. Rooms here come in nice, nicer and nicest, there’s a full-service spa with a host of luxurious treatments (detoxifying wrap and body polish, anyone?), and one of the best restaurants in Washington, Barking Frog, is on the premises. If you even need to venture out, you can hit up more than a dozen wine tasting rooms just minutes away. The Salish Lodge & Spa sits on the edge of Snoqualmie Falls. As if that weren’t enough, it has a romance

cierge who will help you turn up the love quotient on your next getaway. Dine in the dining room or at The Attic, where you can overlook the falls, and get ready for local food—the onsite apiary produces honey and homegrown herbs spice up all the dishes. Quick Hit And then there’s Lodge the Headlands Coastal Willows Woodinville Lodge & Spa in Pacific $269+ City, Oregon. Opened in Salish Lodge & Spa mid-2018, every room Snoqualmie has an ocean view and $219+ the lodge is steps from Headlands Pelican Brewing’s brew- Coastal Lodge & Spa pub. But Headlands has Pacific City $310+ enough amenities that you may never even make it out the door. The spa offers all the usual treatments, and Meridian’s menu is filled with fine dining dishes and great wine and cocktails. Many of the rooms have deep, clawfoot bathtubs, and all have cozy Pendleton blankets and gas fireplaces. Swing by the honor-system pantry and pick up Oregon-made snacks, then curl up and watch the waves. SPRING 2019 |


Spend Your Clams at These Casinos Oregon and Washington have plenty of casino options, many very close to the Amtrak Cascades line. Here are a few of our nearby favorites.

Little Creek Casino Resort Shelton Many of the rooms here were just renovated, and while not as extravagant as some of the other casinos in the state, this spot has a cigar bar, a spa and a game room for the kids. The hotel also includes a tribal art collection.

Seven Feathers Resort Casino Canyonville The grand dame of the Oregon tribal casinos has something others can’t boast—River Rock Spa, a full-service salon and spa offering massages, facials and a variety of other services as well as packages.

Snoqualmie Casino Snoqualmie At a little more than 25 miles away, this is the casino closest to Seattle. As a result, it gets big-name performers, as well as a steakhouse, 1,700 slot machines and fifty-four gaming tables. The casino also offers a $10 bus to and from the city.

Suquamish Clearwater Casino & Resort Poulsbo This hotspot recently got a facelift, and the rooms are even more beautiful than before. The waterfront property has beach access, is popular for weddings and other events, and has a golf course.

Angel of the Winds Resort & Casino Arlington This big and beautiful casino and hotel is growing. An expansion started last year will add slots and gaming tables, as well as an enclosed parking garage and new restaurants (including a 60-seat steakhouse!) and bars. Plus, there will be a bowling alley and a new 8,500-square-foot entertainment facility for concerts and other events.

ilani La Center ilani caused quite a stir when it opened in April 2017, and that’s for good reason—this spot was developed by the Cowlitz Tribe in conjunction with the Salishan-Mohegan and partners with the Mohegan Sun, the famous casino in Connecticut. The casino is more than 100,000 square feet and has fifteen restaurants, bars and stores.

Wildhorse Resort & Casino Pendleton The ten-story Tower Hotel has spacious, fancy-feeling rooms and great views. There is a very good golf course with reasonable greens fees on the campus, with a new clubhouse coming in 2019. Bonus—Wildhorse rounds it out with a five-screen cineplex.

FROM TOP Campbell’s Resort has delighted visitors since 1901. Hire a goat caddie at Silvies, a working cattle ranch that recently added a small eco-resort. Doe Bay Resort & Retreat has yurts on the property.

In the San Juans, Doe Bay Resort & Retreat has cabins, yurts and campsites on 38 acres. This is one of those places where you feel your body exhale and relax as you arrive—it’s got that magical quality to it.

Campbell’s Resort


Talitha Bullock

Silvies Valley Ranch

An Earthy Rustic

In the San Juans, Doe Bay Resort & Retreat has cabins, yurts and campsites on 38 acres. This is one of those places where you feel your body exhale and relax as you arrive—it’s got that magical quality to it. Each year, the resort hosts a four-day grassroots music festival (this year from August 7 to 12) and you get a 10 percent discount on your accommodations when you book a whale-watching trip with Outer Island Excursions. Plus, the Doe Bay Cafe has a menu filled with fresh ingredients, many from the Doe Bay Garden outside. Rustic may not be the right word

for Silvies Valley Ranch, an operating cattle ranch since the 1880s in Seneca, Oregon. Last year, the ranch added a thirty-four room eco-resort called The Retreat & Links at Silvies Valley Ranch. King beds, private log cabins, and a recently added a full-service spa Quick Hit all combine to make Doe Bay this spot luxury with a Resort & Retreat Western twist. You can Orcas Island hit the golf course with a $76+ (2-night goat caddie, go on an auminimum) thentic cattle drive, try Silvies Valley Ranch your hand at the shootSeneca ing range, or get out and $350 explore the thousands of Campbell’s Resort acres around you. Chelan Campbell’s Resort on $94+ Lake Chelan is more historic than rustic. This spot has been around and improved upon many times since 1901, and has 170 lakeside guest rooms and a private beach on the 8-acre site. In the summer there are beachside concerts and the kids can learn to fish with the resort’s fishing program. SPRING 2019 |




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SEATTLE’S KNOWN FOR a lot of things—tons of rain, great music, coffee. It’s also got a reputation for being an expensive place to live and play. But visitors can find deals. We set out on a weekend of keeping costs down.

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tle Aquarium. Each of the library’s passes has at least two adult tickets, but some have four or more tickets. If you’re not a library card holder, you can also count on the city’s museums to offer free days. For example, the Imagine Children’s Museum is free the third Friday of each month from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., and offers half-price admission on Thursday afternoons. Other spots, like the Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture and the Seattle Art Museum are free on the first Thursday of each month. Or go to the Duwamish Longhouse & Cultural Center, the Klondike Gold Rush Museum, or the Loghouse Museum, all of which have a ton of historical information and exhibits and are always free. The Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation Discovery Center is free and open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. The center has a variety of exhibits that show what the foundation is doing around the world, as well as how people live and why we should be optimistic about the future. Among those exhibits, a chance to “make a difference now” by doing a project that benefits people in need. If you plan ahead, you can check out another well-known Seattle business—Amazon’s new facility, The Spheres. This architectural marvel is a collaborative workspace set in two huge glass domes, and inside are more than 40,000 plants from around the world, as well as water features and garden aquariums. The building is open to the public on the first and third Saturdays of each month with a visitor center called Understory at the base of the building. In order to visit you’ll have to register for a free entry time on the facility’s website, www.

Sky View Observatory

Playing tourist in Seattle starts with an iconic spot—the Space Needle. The landmark, built in 1962 over a period of eight months for the World’s Fair, just got a $100 million facelift that is a must-see. On the observation deck, 11-foot tilting glass walls with glass benches now allow for better views. Downstairs, part of the flooring is now clear as well, allowing visitors to challenge their fear of heights (I lost this challenge— there’s video of me laugh-sobbing to prove it). The Space Needle’s ticket prices went up along with the renovation—adults pay between $27.50 (early birds) and $37.50. If you combine your Space Needle visit with stops at other Seattle Center locations, you can get a deal. Chihuly Garden and Glass, just steps away and well worth a visit, is $26 on its own. When you add the Space Needle, the tickets cost $49. Or pick up a See It All: Seattle Center 4-pack and add the monorail and the Pacific Science Center. That’ll cost you $78, a savings of 25 percent—plus you can skip lines. Finally, there’s the CityPASS, which is $89 for an adult and gets you into the Space Needle, the Seattle Aquarium, onto an Argosy Cruises Harbor Tour, and then two options—either the Museum of Pop Culture or the Woodland Park Zoo, and the Chihuly Garden and Glass or the Pacific Science Center. If you’d prefer your views of the city to include the Space Needle, you’re in luck. The Columbia Center offers the Sky View Observatory on the seventy-third floor, 1,000 feet in the air, and tickets are only $20 when purchased online. And note that, if you’re a Seattle Library card holder, you can reserve one pass per week to one of fifteen attractions in the area, including the Woodland Park Zoo and the Seat-

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Chihuly Garden and Glass is a marvel, right next to the Space Needle in Seattle Center. The Spheres is Amazon’s very green collaborative workspace. The Sky View Observatory is one alternative to the Space Needle.

Jordan Stead/Amazon

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Sarah Seavey

Benjamin Benschneider

Matt Mornick

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Olympic Sculpture Park features more than a dozen huge art works and is free. Wander the stalls at Pike Place Market. The Center for Wooden Boats features hands-on learning. Lecosho is a very nice restaurant with a very reasonable happy hour.

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The Center for Wooden Boats

[ EXPLORING OUTDOORS ] That’s a lot of culture. You can also get outside—grab a raincoat and start at Pike Place Market, where you can wander the stalls of fresh fish, handmade art and bundles of flowers all without paying a dime. You might be inspired to pick up a few foods for lunch, but if you can resist the temptation and fill up on samples, you’ll be ahead of the game. Then head to Olympic Sculpture Park, which is free and open to the public every day of the year, sunrise to sunset. It’s managed by the Seattle Art Museum and has more than a dozen huge art works in a park by the water. Or head to South Lake Union and check out the Center for Wooden Boats, a free museum that offers hands-on learning opportunities about boats and the water. You will have to pay to rent a boat, but the exhibits and exploring the boats is always free. Finally, you can also do a free professionally led tour of the

tenden Locks in the Ballard section of the city. From May through September the tours take place multiple times daily, but are less frequent in the winter. You’ll see fish climbing the ladder and the locks opening and closing for boats, and learn about the history of the area. Bonus—there’s a botanical garden on site as well. You may not want to pony up the money to take a boat tour in Seattle, which generally start at $30 and up. Instead, try a ferry ride from Seattle to Bremerton or Bainbridge Island. Passenger tickets are $8.50. When you’ve had enough of the sightseeing, kick back and play some games at Add-A-Ball, a 21-plus spot with the largest collection of coin-operated, vintage arcade machines in the city. Or try the Seattle Pinball Museum, where for $15 you can camp out and play old pinball games as long as you like (show up with a friend or two and pay $20 for multiple adults). After all that cheap culture, you’re going to be hungry. This city has tons of options, including some excellent happy hours that make the spendy spots a little more reasonable.

For happy hours at the fancy restaurants, try out Lecosho, a downtown, dark-wood spot. Happy hour has a full menu with treats like bolognese and spaetzle, as well as wine for $5 and tap beers for $4. Get oysters for cheap during happy hour at The Walrus and The Carpenter, the adorable oyster bar in Ballard. Or try Lower Queen Anne’s Toulouse Petit’s happy hours—yes, plural. One runs 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., the other 10 p.m. to midnight, and both offer more than fifty plates between $5 and $11, as well as less expensive beer, wine and cocktails. If you’re looking for food that’s good and doesn’t have a time limit on its reasonable price, the city is your proverbial oyster. There are dumplings in Chinatown (try Ping’s for the real deal), reasonably priced sushi (Kisaku in Green Lake is a typical neighborhood sushi place where you can eat well for a reasonable amount), and sandwiches everywhere (Mean Sandwich, anyone?). Or head into the University District for college eats—you know there are always deals when college kids get involved. SPRING 2019 |


Opened in 1936, the Conde McCullough Memorial Bridge over Coos Bay is 5,305 feet long and 279 feet tall.


OREGON IS A place of water—oceans and rivers and everything in between. The result? Many bridges. Along Highway 101 on the Oregon Coast, the bridges were primarily built in the 1920s and 1930s and most were designed by Conde McCullough, who favored Romanesque arches, gothic spires and Art Deco detailing. Today, they stand as a testament—taming our state’s most wild sections so we can access by vehicle the coast’s many gifts.


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FROM LEFT Spanning the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington, the Astoria-Megler Bridge is just over 4 miles long and opened in 1966. It is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. Once a year, pedestrians have the opportunity to cross it during the Great Columbia Crossing race in October. The Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport was designed by renowned Oregon bridge designer Conde McCullough. It opened in 1936.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Umpqua River Bridge in Reedsport is the only swing-span bridge remaining in Oregon. Opened in 1936, it features the signature Art Deco motif of the era. Built in 1927, the Ben Jones Bridge south of Depoe Bay is no longer part of Highway 101 and as a result can be easy to miss. Nestled in a small cove, the bridge is worth the short detour, however, and visitors can enjoy solitude among the crashing waves. The 1931 Big Creek Bridge is one of eleven coastal bridges designed by Conde McCullough. Big Creek mirrors the design of the Wilson River Bridge in Tillamook and Ten Mile Creek Bridge. A tied-arch design, which uses the road deck for support, was chosen because the unstable sandy base could not support the piers used in traditional arch bridges.


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The graceful arches of the Isaac Lee Patterson Bridge seem to tiptoe over the Rogue River at Gold Beach. The bridge opened in 1931.

Art Deco detailing marks the Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport.

Visitors to the Old Town shopping district in Florence can see the Siuslaw River Bridge, a drawbridge opened in 1936.

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Eat + Stay + Play

Oregon Guide

Cana’s Feast Winery $$, Winery Carlton 37.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.852.0002 Oregon City Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.908.1948 R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar $$, Wine McMinnville 38.7 MILES FROM STATION 866.472.8614

PORTLAND OUR PICK Caffe Mingo $$, Italian 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.4646

Garden Bar, Portland, Oregon

EUGENE Belly Taquería $$, Mexican 69 FEET FROM STATION 541.683.5896 OUR PICK The Bier Stein $$, American, Pub 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.2437 Marché $$, French 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.3612 McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café $$, Brewpub 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.345.4905 Oregon Electric Station $$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood 374 FEET FROM STATION 541.485.4444 Sushi Pure $$, Sushi 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.654.0608


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Tacovore $$, Mexican 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3518

Christos Pizzeria & Lounge $$, Pizza 1.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.2892

WildCraft Cider Works $$, New American 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.735.3506

Gamberetti’s Italian Restaurant $$, Italian 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.7446

ALBANY Calapooia Brewing $$, Brewpub 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.1931 Frankie’s Restaurant $$, American, Steakhouse 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.248.3671 Sybaris Bistro $$$, New American 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.8157

SALEM ACME Cafe $$, American 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.798.4736

Wild Pear $$, Cafe 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.378.7515 Willamette Valley Vineyards Turner $$, Winery 9.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.588.9463

OREGON CITY Adelsheim Vineyard Newberg $$$, Winery 29 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.3652 ArborBrook Vineyards Newberg $$, Winery 29.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.538.0959

Chennai Masala Hillsboro $$, Indian 12 MILES FROM STATION 503.531.9500 Decarli Beaverton $$, Italian 8.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.641.3223 Elephant’s Delicatessen $$, Deli MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Le Bouchon $$$, French 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.2193 Oven and Shaker $$, Pizza, Italian 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.241.1600 The Palm Court $$$, American 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 The Parish $$, Seafood, Southern 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.227.2421 Ruth’s Chris Steak House $$$, Steakhouse 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.221.4518 Serratto Restaurant & Bar $$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.221.1195 Syun Izakaya Hillsboro $$, Japanese 16.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.640.3131

Garden Bar $$, Vegetarian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS Gloria’s Secret Café Beaverton $$, Latin American 8.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.268.2124 Imperial Restaurant $$, American 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.7222 Laurelhurst Market $$$, Steakhouse 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.206.3097


Eat + Stay + Play

EUGENE Best Western New Oregon Motel 2 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3669 C’est La Vie Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.302.3014 Courtyard Eugene Springfield 4.6 MILES FROM STATION 541.726.2121 Excelsior Inn 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.6963

Inn at the 5th MILES FROM STATION 541.743.4099 Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.683.3160 OUR PICK Phoenix Inn Suites 1 MILE FROM STATION 541.344.0001 Valley River Inn 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.743.1000

ALBANY Best Western Plus Prairie Inn 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.5050 Comfort Suites 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.928.2053 Phoenix Inn Suites 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.926.5696

SALEM The Grand Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.540.7800

Erik Bishoff Photography

Hilton 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.2000

Holiday Inn Express & Suites 3 MILES FROM STATION 541.342.1243

Hampton Inn & Suites 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.362.1300 Red Lion 2.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.370.7888

OUR PICK Inn @ Northrup Station 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0543


Jupiter Hotel 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.230.9200

Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.655.7141

McMenamins Edgefield Troutdale 13.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.669.8610

Grand Hotel at Bridgeport Tigard 11.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.5757

McMenamins Grand Lodge Forest Grove 25.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.992.9533

Lakeshore Inn Lake Oswego 6.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.636.9679

The Nines 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 877.229.9995

PORTLAND Ace Hotel 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2277 The Benson, a Coast Hotel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.228.2000 Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.288.5225 Embassy Suites Portland Washington Square Tigard 11.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.644.4400 www.portlandembassy Friendly Bike Guest House 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.799.2615 www.friendlybikeguest

Resort at the Mountain Mt. Hood Village 45.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.622.3101 River’s Edge Hotel & Spa 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.802.5800 Shift Vacation Rentals 3.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.208.2581 Tierra Soul Urban Farm & Guesthouse 2.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.489.7645 Timberline Lodge Timberline 62.5 MILES FROM STATION 800.547.1406 The Westin 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.294.9000

Hotel Eastlund 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.235.2100 Hotel Modera 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 877.484.1084 Inn at the 5th, Eugene, Oregon

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SPRING 2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

EUGENE Bijou Metro 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 541.686.3229 OUR PICK Cascades Raptor Center 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.1320

Historic Elsinore Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.375.3574

Bella Casa 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.222.5337

Salem Center 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.399.9676

Bonnet 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2271


Heritage Dry Goods 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.393.6710

Bridgeport Village Tigard 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.968.1704

Hult Center for the Performing Arts 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 541.682.5087

Clackamas Repertory Theater 3.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.594.6047

Museum of Natural & Cultural History 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 541.346.3024 www. natural-history.

End of the Oregon Trail 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 503.657.9336

Oakway Center 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 541.485.4711



PORTLAND Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.248.4335

Oregon Zoo 3.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.226.1561

Boys Fort 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.567.1015

Physical Element 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.5425

Ellington Handbags 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.542.3149

Pittock Mansion 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.823.3623

Garnish Apparel 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 503.954.2292

Portland Art Museum 1 MILE FROM STATION 503.226.2811 www.portlandartmuseum. org

McMenamins Crystal Ballroom 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 503.225.0047 Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort Mt. Hood 75 MILES FROM STATION 503.337.2222

Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks & Minerals Hillsboro 17.1 MILES FROM STATION 503.647.2418 www.ricenorthwest Twist 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 503.224.0334 US Outdoor Store 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.223.5937

Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 971.319.6934

Michael Durham/Oregon Zoo

Albany Antique Mall 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 541.704.0109

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 503.797.4000

Gallery Calapooia 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 503.971.5701 Oregon Coast Aquarium Newport 65 MILES FROM STATION 541.867.3474

SALEM Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark McMinnville 24.3 MILES FROM STATION 503.434.4185 Gilbert House Children’s Museum 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 503.371.3631 Oregon Zoo, Portland, Oregon 60

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Eat + Stay + Play

Washington Guide

Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails $$, American, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.971.8015 John Howie Steak $$$$, American, Steakhouse Bellevue 10 MILES FROM STATION 425.440.0880 Little Water Cantina $$, Mexican 4 MILES FROM STATION 206.397.4940 Loulay Kitchen & Bar $$, French, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.402.4588

Westward, Seattle, Washington

KELSO/LONGVIEW The Office 842 $$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.442.4647

CENTRALIA McMenamins Olympic Club Pub $$, Brewpub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164

OLYMPIA/LACEY Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar $$, American, Seafood 8.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.915.7784 oyster-bar

Fish Tale Brew Pub $$, Brewpub 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.3650 OUR PICK Hop Jacks $$, American 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.528.2174 Our Table $$, American 8.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.932.6030 our-table The Mouse Trap $$, Cheese Shop 8.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.489.0678

El Pulgarcito $, Salvadoran 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 253.582.5173

Nineveh Assyrian $, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean 8 MILES FROM STATION 360.513.7072

Farrelli’s Pizza $$, Italian 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 360.493.2090

Old School Pizzeria $, Pizza 8.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.786.9640

TACOMA Asado $$$, Argentine 4.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.7770 Odd Otter Brewery $, Brewery 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.327.1680 Pacific Grill $$, American, Seafood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.627.3535

TUKWILA Miyabi Sushi $$, Japanese 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 206.575.6815

SEATTLE Assaggio Ristorante $$$, Italian 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.441.1399

Pine Box $$, Brewpub 1.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.588.0375 Revel $$, Asian Fusion, Korean 5.9 MILES FROM STATION 206.547.2040 Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar $$$, American, Seafood Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.456.0010 Sharps Roasthouse $$, American, BBQ SeaTac 13.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.241.5744 TanakaSan $$, Asian Fusion 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.812.8412

EDMONDS Arnies Restaurant $$, Seafood 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5688

EVERETT Anthony’s HomePort $$, Seafood 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.3333

STANWOOD Stanwood Grill $$, American 289 FEET FROM STATION 360.629.5253

MOUNT VERNON Skagit River Brewery $$, Brewpub 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.2884

BELLINGHAM OUR PICK Colophon Café $$, Café, Salad, Sandwiches 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.647.0092 Leaf & Ladle $$, Soup, Sandwiches 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.319.9718 leafandladle Magdalena’s Creperie $$, Breakfast, Brunch, Desserts 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.483.8569

Westward $$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American 5.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.552.8215

Eastside Bar & Grill $$, American Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444

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SPRING 2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play KELSO/LONGVIEW Monticello Hotel 2.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.425.9900

CENTRALIA Centralia Square Hotel 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.807.1212 McMenamins—Olympic Club Hotel & Theater 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.5164

OLYMPIA/LACEY The Governor, a Coast Hotel 7.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.352.7700 Hilton Garden Inn 6.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.236.9934 www.hiltongardeninn3.

Swantown Inn & Spa 7.6 MILES FROM STATION 360.753.9123

TACOMA Hotel Murano 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 253.238.8000 Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma Waterfront 3.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.1300

TUKWILA Cedarbrook Lodge SeaTac 4.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.901.9268 Springhill Suites Renton 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 425.226.4100


Little Creek Casino Resort 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711


Red Lion Hotel 8 MILES FROM STATION 360.943.4000

Belltown Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.529.3700

Jason Tang Photography

Alexis Hotel 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.624.4844

Coast Bellevue Hotel Bellevue 11.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.455.9444 Coast Gateway Hotel SeaTac 13.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.248.8200 Greenlake Guest House 7.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.729.8700 Hotel 1000 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.957.1000 Hotel Monaco 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.1770 Grand Hyatt Seattle 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.774.1234 Inn at the Market 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.0631 The Maxwell Hotel 2.5 MILES FROM STATION 206.286.0629

The Moore Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.448.4851 The Paramount Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.292.9500 www.paramounthotel Seattle Sheraton 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.621.9000 Sorrento Hotel 1.1 MILES FROM STATION 206.622.6400

EDMONDS Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 425.771.5021 Coast Wenatchee Center Hotel Wenatchee 133 MILES FROM STATION 509.662.1234

MOUNT VERNON Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn 1.9 MILES FROM STATION 360.428.5678 Tulip Inn 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 800.599.5696

BELLINGHAM The Chrysalis Inn & Spa 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.756.1005 Fairhaven Village Inn 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.733.1311 Hotel Bellwether 4 MILES FROM STATION 360.392.3100

Courtyard by Marriott Seattle North 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.670.0500

EVERETT Holiday Inn Downtown Everett 0.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.339.2000 OUR PICK Inn at Port Gardner 2.4 MILES FROM STATION 425.252.6779

STANWOOD Cedar Bluff Cottage 5.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.445.3333 Hotel Stanwood 1.4 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.2888 www.stanwoodhotel

The Maxwell Hotel, Seattle, Washington 62

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Eat + Stay + Play

Isaac Peterson

VANCOUVER Kiggins Theatre 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.816.0352

KELSO/LONGVIEW Cowlitz County Tourism Visit Mount St. Helens 360.577.3137 Kelso Theater Pub 0.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.414.9451

CENTRALIA Centralia Factory Outlets 2.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.736.3327 www.centraliafactory Centralia Fox Theatre 0.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.623.1103

OLYMPIA/LACEY Capitol Tours 7.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.902.8880 OUR PICK Hands On Children’s Museum 8.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.956.0818 Little Creek Casino Resort Shelton 20.6 MILES FROM STATION 800.667.7711 Olympia Farmers Market 8.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.352.9096 www.olympiafarmers Rhythm & Rye 7.8 MILES FROM STATION 360.705.0760 rhythmandrye

TACOMA LeMay—America’s Car Museum 0.7 MILES FROM STATION 253.779.8490

Museum of Glass, Tacoma, Washington

Museum of Glass 0.9 MILES FROM STATION 253.284.4750 Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium 7.4 MILES FROM STATION 253.591.5337 Tacoma Art Museum 1.2 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.4258 Washington State History Museum 1.8 MILES FROM STATION 253.272.3500

TUKWILA Museum of Flight 5.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.764.5720

SEATTLE Bellevue Arts Museum Bellevue 10.7 MILES FROM STATION 425.519.0770

Chihuly Garden and Glass 2.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.753.4940 www.chihulygardenand Museum of History and Industry 2.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.324.1126 Neptune Theatre 4.2 MILES FROM STATION 206.682.1414 Northwest Outdoor Center 3.7 MILES FROM STATION 206.281.9694 Olympic Sculpture Park 2 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100 Pike Place Market 1.4 MILES FROM STATION Seattle Aquarium 1 MILE FROM STATION 206.386.4300 Seattle Art Museum 0.8 MILES FROM STATION 206.654.3100

Woodland Park Zoo 5.3 MILES FROM STATION 206.548.2500

EDMONDS Cascadia Art Museum 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 425.336.4809 Edmonds Center for the Arts 0.6 MILES FROM STATION 425.275.4485 www.edmondscenterforthe Visit Edmonds 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 1.877.775.6935

EVERETT Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour Mukilteo 8 MILES FROM STATION 1.800.464.1476 XFINITY Arena at Everett 0.5 MILES FROM STATION 425.322.2600

Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides:

STANWOOD Stanwood Cinemas 1.5 MILES FROM STATION 360.629.0514 www.faraway

MOUNT VERNON Downtown Mount Vernon 360.336.3801 www.mountvernon Lincoln Theatre 0.3 MILES FROM STATION 360.336.8955

BELLINGHAM Bellingham Railway Museum 3.1 MILES FROM STATION 360.393.7540 www.bellinghamrailway OUR PICK Mount Baker Theatre 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.734.6080 Whatcom Museum 3.2 MILES FROM STATION 360.778.8930 SPRING 2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

Rob Gilbert Photography

Vancouver Guide

Forty Ninth Parallel Café & Lucky’s Doughnuts $, Coffee, Donuts 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.872.4901 Jules $$, French 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0033 The Keefer Bar $$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.1961 Kintaro Ramen $, Asian 3.8 KM FROM STATION 604.682.7568 Kirin $$, Seafood, Dim Sum MULTIPLE LOCATIONS OUR PICK L’Abattoir $$$, French, Canadian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.568.1701

Yaletown Brewing Co., Vancouver, BC

Ask for Luigi $$, Italian 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.428.2544 OUR PICK

Café at John Henry’s $$, American 115 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2336 www.johnhenrysresort

Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie $$$, Chinese 850 METERS FROM STATION 604.688.0876

Chambar $$$, Belgian, Breakfast 1.4 KM FROM STATION 604.879.7119

Blue Water Cafe $$, Seafood 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8078 Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar $$$, Seafood, Steakhouse 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2900 64

| SPRING 2019

Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca $$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7466 Cuchillo $$, Latin American 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.559.7585

The Diamond $$, Mexican 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.568.8272 Fable Kitchen $$, Canadian 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.732.1322 The Fat Badger $$, British 3.4 KM FROM STATION 604.336.5577 The Flying Pig $$, Canadian MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Lighthouse Pub $$, Gastropub 70.1 KM FROM STATION 604.885.9494

Octopus’ Garden $$$, Japanese, Sushi 4.5 KM FROM STATION 604.734.8971 Opus Bar $$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.2107 Salt Tasting Room $$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.633.1912 Sal y Limon $, Mexican 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.677.4247 Savary Island Pie Company $$, Bakery, Coffee 10.6 KM FROM STATION 604.926.4021 www.savaryislandpie Wildebeest $$$, Gastropub, Canadian 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.687.6880 Yaletown Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2739

Marutama Ramen $$, Asian 3.6 KM FROM STATION 604.688.8837 Molly’s Reach $$, American, Seafood 47 KM FROM STATION 604.886.9710

Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar $$, Italian, Wine 4 KM FROM STATION 604.736.2220 The Oakwood Canadian Bistro $$, Gastropub, Canadian 5.6 KM FROM STATION 604.558.1965


Eat + Stay + Play Auberge Vancouver Hotel 2.6 KM FROM STATION 604.678.8899 Barclay House 3.5 KM FROM STATION 604.605.1351 Bee & Thistle Guest House 3.3 KM FROM STATION 604.669.0715 The Burrard 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.681.2331 Coast Coal Harbour Hotel 2.7 KM FROM STATION 604.697.0202 Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites 4.2 KM FROM STATION 604.688.7711 Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel 9.3 KM FROM STATION 604.263.1555 English Bay Inn 5 KM FROM STATION 604.683.8002

Executive Hotel LeSoleil 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.632.3000 OUR PICK Executive Hotel Vintage Park 2.9 KM FROM STATION 1.800.570.3932 Fairmont Chateau Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 604.938.8000 Georgian Court Hotel 1.5 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5555 www.georgiancourthotel Granville House B&B 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.739.9002 Granville Island Hotel 4.4 KM FROM STATION 604.683.7373 Hotel at the Waldorf 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.253.7141

Hotel Blue Horizon 2.9 KM FROM STATION 604.688.1411

OPUS Vancouver 2.2 KM FROM STATION 604.642.6787

The Kingston Hotel 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.9024 www.kingstonhotel

The Painted Boat Resort Spa & Marina 101 KM FROM STATION 604.883.2456

The Landis Hotel & Suites 3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.3555 www.landissuites

Patricia Hotel 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.255.4301

L’Hermitage Hotel 2 KM FROM STATION 778.327.4100 www.lhermitage The Listel Hotel 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.684.7092 Loden Hotel 3.4 KM FROM STATION 877.225.6336 Moon Dance Vacation Rentals 107 KM FROM STATION 604.841.5805

Pinnacle Hotel Vanoucver Harbourfront 3.1 KM FROM STATION 604.689.9211 www.pinnacleharbour

Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler Whistler 132 KM FROM STATION 604.932.2778 The Sylvia Hotel 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.681.9321 Victorian Hotel 1.7 KM FROM STATION 604.681.6369 Wedgewood Hotel & Spa 2.4 KM FROM STATION 604.689.7777

The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel 3.2 KM FROM STATION 604.685.1301 OUR PICK Rosewood Hotel Georgia 2.1 KM FROM STATION 604.682.5566 St. Clair Hotel - Hostel 1.8 KM FROM STATION 604.648.3713

Coast Coal Harbour Hotel, Vancouver, BC

Email Statehood Media to get listed in our guides:

SPRING 2019 |


Eat + Stay + Play

Tourism Vancouver/Nelson Mouellic

Granville Island, Vancouver, BC

Bau-Xi Gallery Contemporary Fine Art 4.3 KM FROM STATION 604.733.7011 Beaty Biodiversity Museum 14.2 KM FROM STATION 604.827.4955

Greater Vancouver Zoo 53.3 KM FROM STATION 604.856.6825

Bloedel Floral Conservatory 5.9 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8584

Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara Parksville 111 KM FROM STATION 250.248.1838

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 10.7 KM FROM STATION 604.985.7474

H.R. MacMillan Space Centre 4.9 KM FROM STATION 604.738.7827

Craigdarroch Castle Victoria 115 KM FROM STATION 250.592.5323

Museum of Vancouver 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.736.4431

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 1.2 KM FROM STATION 604.662.3207 www.vancouverchinese 66

Granville Island 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.666.6655

| SPRING 2019

The Orpheum 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050

Peak 2 Peak Gondola Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.888.403.4727 Pirate Adventures 4.1 KM FROM STATION 604.754.7535 OUR PICK Queen Elizabeth Theatre 1.6 KM FROM STATION 604.665.3050

Rockwood Adventures 7.4 KM FROM STATION 604.913.1621 Rogers Arena 2 KM FROM STATION 604.899.7400 Science World at TELUS World of Science 400 METERS FROM STATION 604.443.7440

Richmond Olympic Oval Richmond 14 KM FROM STATION 778.296.1400

Skookumchuck Narrows Provincial Park 129 KM FROM STATION

River Rock Casino Resort Richmond 12.2 KM FROM STATION 877.473.8900

Vancouver Art Gallery 2.3 KM FROM STATION 604.662.4700

Robson Street 2.8 KM FROM STATION 604.669.8132

OUR PICK Vancouver Maritime Museum 4.8 KM FROM STATION 604.257.8300 www.vancouvermaritime Whistler Blackcomb Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION 1.800.766.0449


Vancouver Aquarium 6.3 KM FROM STATION 604.659.3474



Photo Contest

A powerful photo of the Oregon State Capitol in spring. The Salem stop on the Amtrak Cascades route now teems with culture beyond that of state politics. PHOTO BY ZEHNKATZEN AT ENGLISH WIKIPEDIA Send us a photo that represents your experience of the Pacific Northwest for a chance to be published here.

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SPRING 2019 |




Bellingham Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett Edmonds Seattle

Low-cost fun in Seattle page 44


Tacoma Olympia/Lacey




An Olympia weekend getaway page 30

Vancouver, WA Oregon City

Salem Albany’s shared workspace page 12



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SPRING 2019 |






| SPRING 2019

Bring your bike on the train We know how much you love bicycling—it’s just part of the Pacific Northwest culture. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to take your bike along on your next trip aboard Amtrak Cascades. Travel in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia is made all the more enjoyable when you combine trains and bikes for the ultimate in eco-friendly transportation. 1. MAKE A RESERVATION FOR YOU AND YOUR BIKE You’ll need to book space for both you and your bike by going online to:, visiting a staffed station, or calling 1-800-USA-RAIL. 2. RACK YOUR BIKE Ten bike racks are available on every Amtrak Cascades train. Bike racks, located in the baggage car, must be reserved for a cost of $5 each. Book early to ensure bike space is available and you get the best fare for your own ticket. This is particularly important during busy summer months when trains fill up quickly. 3. BOX YOUR BIKE If you don’t make advance reservations, you may find the bike rack space is all sold out. If that’s the case, you can opt to box your bike (except at unstaffed stations)* for an additional $15/box plus a $10 handling fee. You’re responsible for disassembling and reassembling your bike. Remember to bring your tools along. *Unstaffed stations: Kelso/Longview, Mt. Vernon, Olympia/Lacey, Oregon City, Stanwood and Tukwila

Looking for a great place to ride? All of the Amtrak Cascades eighteen station stops offer nearby bike routes that allow you to explore the area. Many follow old rail corridors, so you can further intertwine your train and bike adventures. Check out more bike trips along the corridor at Vancouver, BC The Stanley Park Seawall is one of the best rides you’ll find in Vancouver proper. Seattle The Emerald City is a great starting point for bike adventures such as the 19mile Burke-Gilman Trail, which dissects the city’s diverse neighborhoods. Tacoma The Ruston waterfront and Point Defiance Park offer a wonderful place to spend an afternoon of bicycling. Portland One of the nation’s top bike cities, Portland is the gateway to several scenic bike trips, including the Tualatin Valley trail that offers a 50-mile route through the northern Willamette Valley. Albany Tackle all or part of the gorgeous 132-mile Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway that meanders through vineyards, hop farms and quaint towns.

SPRING 2019 |


Parting Shot

SPARKS LAKE, BEND, OR Oregon’s Sparks Lake has views and solitude. PHOTO BY MEGAN MORSE


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Comp Amtra liments of k Cas cades ®



RUSTIC, RITZY, MOUNTAINSIDE + OCEANFRONT RESORTS IN THE PNW adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route

PICTURED HERE: Silvies Valley Ranch spa

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OnTrak | Spring 2019  

OnTrak | Spring 2019  

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