1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Ski Northwest | October/November 2022

TRIP PLANNER: LEAVENWORTH PG. 84

Bike Trails for Every Rider

DIY: Design a Backyard Studio

A Skier’s Getaway to “Wydaho”

7 TRENDS

SHAPING THE FOOD YOU EAT

SWEET + SAVORY APPLE RECIPES

YOUR

SKI GUIDE

TO THE NORTHWEST

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FALL FLAVOR LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

WASHINGTON

October | November

volume 33

Discover yourself here.

Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming soon, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood.

Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.

Slots, craps, blackjack, roulette, bingo, weekend getaways, culinary artistry, live shows, dancing, sports, spa – whatever it is you want, you’ll find it here.

Get into everything at EverythingTulalip.com

Close to Home photography by Katheryn Moran NEED SOME extra space? Follow these tips to design your own backyard studio or she-shed. (pg. 34)

2 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Mary Morris Solomon converted her backyard shed into a studio to house her illustration and paper goods business, Mary Gold Tales.

Olympia aerial artist Giselle performs in her home studio.

FEATURES OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022 • volume 33

66 The Magical Arts of Olympia A peek behind the scenes at Olympia’s magical performing arts scene. photography by Bill Purcell

54 On Trend Seven trends in food that are defining the dining experience in Washington.

Chamoy on your burger? written by Ryn Pfeuffer

60 Washington Forests Reach Critical Junction

Bill Purcell

Forest management is even more important as the climate crisis accelerates. We need a new management style to change the trajectory of for-profit forestry.

4

written by Daniel O’Neil 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

seaside is for Making big plans with best friends

We could all use more time with friends. And somehow it can feel easier to make big plans than to find time to get coffee. So here’s an idea. Break out the calendar, start a text chain and make plans to spend a few days with a good friend or three here in Seaside. Long walks, hikes and bike rides await.

@visitseasideOR seasideOR.com

DEPARTMENTS OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022 • volume 33

LIVE

84

14 SAY WA?

Fresh hop and arts festivals, BaLonely’s new album and a magical realism novel out of Spokane.

18 FOOD + DRINK

Chelsea Keutmann’s sustainable salmon operations; Crafted, a farm-totable gem in the heart of Yakima.

22 FARM TO TABLE

The story of one apple grower’s plight after a difficult year and the sweet and savory recipes that put apples in their best light.

28 HOME + DESIGN

Architects show their chops in these two coastal projects. Plus, a DIY backyard studio.

40 MIND + BODY

78

42

Seattle Seawolves’ Drew Durutalo talks us through the rigors of rugby and an 80/20 rule to live by.

42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism; AT RIGHT Christie Tirado

Yakima teacher and artist Christie Tirado channels her own experience to give voice to migrant workers.

THINK 48 STARTUP

Making a better world through smoothies at Seattle’s 2050 Company.

50 WHAT’S GOING UP

Health facilities for children are popping up across the state.

51 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Western Washington University’s Jared Hardesty is exposing a hidden history of slavery.

52 MY WORKSPACE

Melanie Budlong brings us into her world of Eastern medicine and outdoors.

10 11 94 96

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

EXPLORE 76 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Oysterville is tiny in population but large in historic significance.

78 ADVENTURE

Washington is a place where you can road, gravel and mountain bike all in the same area. Load ’em up!

82 LODGING

On the placid Hood Canal, Alderbrook Resort and Spa is a zen retreat.

84 TRIP PLANNER

Come to Leavenworth for Bavaria-in-the-Cascades and Oktoberfest, but stay for the outdoor recreation.

90 NW DESTINATION

COVER

Welcome to “Wydaho” and the Teton Valley on the Wyoming and Idaho border. Bring your skis!

photo by Brooke Fitts (see Farm to Table, pg. 22)

6

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

CONTRIBUTORS

KATHERYN MORAN Photographer Home + Design DIY

AARON THEISEN Writer + Photographer Northwest Destination

BROOKE FITTS Photographer Farm to Table

BILL PURCELL Photographer The Magical Arts of Olympia

“I’d fallen in love with Mary’s work long before the opportunity came along to photograph her beautiful workspace. I was thrilled to see another creative’s studio and get a glimpse into her watercolor world. Her bubbly, bright personality perfectly reflects her whimsical artwork, and chatting with her felt like catching up with an old friend.” (pg. 34)

“For several years now, Grand Targhee Resort and the Teton Valley of Idaho have been a family summer vacation staple, thanks to its welcoming vibe, relaxed pace and easy access to outdoor recreation—and, of course, its stunning views of the Tetons. So I’d often wondered what Grand Targhee’s 500-inch winters were like. They are, in short, every bit the equal to Teton Valley summers. There is truly no bad time of year to make the journey to what locals on the Idaho/Wyoming call ‘Wydaho.’” (pg. 90)

“A huge perk of being a food photographer is naturally getting to try the subject matter post shoot. I love photographing people and their stories, so I was intrigued to meet and photograph Mark and Cheryl at their orchard farm in Yakima. I walked away with some newfound friends and the discovery of a place I’d love to return to … but the biggest perk of my shoot was getting to haul home a box of freshly picked apples. Absolutely wonderful to sample!” (pg. 22)

“Working with these artists has been a treat. Every shoot is different, and I always look forward to seeing where our collaboration takes us! I want the photos we create together to tell stories beyond their performances. From clowns to acrobats, it is never a dull moment.” (pg. 66)

Katheryn Moran is a freelance lifestyle photographer living in the Pacific Northwest. She specializes in business branding, food styling and telling authentic stories through a lens.

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Aaron Theisen is a Spokanebased outdoors writer and photographer. His passions are the big peaks and small towns of the Intermountain West.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Brooke Fitts is a Seattle-based food and lifestyle photographer.

When she’s not taking photographs, you can find her in her veggie garden, planning her next adventure or happily cooking and eating something delicious.

Bill Purcell is a freelance commercial and editorial photographer specializing in environmental portraits and architectural photography.

He lives in Olympia and has a propensity for getting lost.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER OFFICE MANAGER DIRECTOR OF SALES BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Ellen Hiatt, Joni Kabana, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Dameon Pesanti, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jonathan Shipley, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Aaron Theisen, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Justin Bailie, Jackie Dodd, Brooke Fitts, Alex Garland, Taj Howe, Katheryn Moran, Daniel O’Neil, Andrew Pogue, Bill Purcell, Aaron Theisen

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 9

FROM THE

EDITOR

WHAT USED TO BE called summer in the Pacific Northwest is better identified as fire season. As we emerge from yet another brutal year of wildfires, we look at contemporary forestry in Washington and what’s going wrong. Chief among our problems is the well-known story of neglect—we neglected to address the problem of man-made global warming until it was too late. We are now making strides in forest management, but not necessarily on private lands, which account for half of Washington’s forests.

On page 60, we turn our attention to this problem in an eye-opening article.

Climate change is also having a great effect on one of the state’s other top industries—snowsports. In this issue, find our ski insert that helps you navigate the offerings and amenities of our beloved ski areas. With some luck, this year will be pandemic-free so that we can focus on face shots, fun and family.

Another sector affected by climate change is farming. Nonetheless apples are resilient and ready for the picking. Farm to Table (pg. 22)

10 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

brings us the story of a family of apple growers and sweet and savory recipes to make this fall with Washington apples.

Artist in Residence (pg. 42) introduces a teacher and artist who is using her own experience and art as a way to bring a voice to immigrant farm workers. Read about Christie Tirado’s mission of social justice and see her stunning block prints.

Our Trip Planner (pg. 84) takes us to Bavaria by way of Leavenworth. This mountain town is the closest many people will ever get to a German Oktoberfest, and it’s a damned fine facsimile. Get your lederhosen and dirndls and make merry in Leavenworth. This scene won’t disappoint.

Finally, go into these holidays with a good book and a drink at your side. Spokane author Leyna Krow asks the question, “Who really started Spokane’s great fire of 1889?” Her answer comes in the form of magical realism in her new novel. Kick back with a literary-themed cocktail, Lovage in the Thyme of Carrots (Cocktail Card, pg. 18) and enjoy!

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photo by John O’Connor I went exploring along the Centennial Trail in downtown Spokane when I decided to do a little “off-roading,” and I found this beautiful view of Spokane Falls. Spokane is a wonderful mix of urban and natural resources.

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Tag us in your photos and videos or use #1889washington for a chance to be featured.

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SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 18 FARM TO TABLE 22 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 40

pg. 22 This fall, treat yourself to local apples, such as these from Barrett Orchards in Yakima.

Brooke Fitts

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 42

Venture Out in Central Oregon, a Pacific Northwest destination where outdoor escapades, craft cuisine, and an art-loving spirit will feed your snow-seeking soul.

Seek out unforgettable spots tucked around some of Oregon’s most spectacular sights...

Make a plan at VisitCentralOregon.com

SEE THE TOP WINTRY THINGS TO DO

Tidbits + To-dos written by Lauren Purdy

Mighty Tieton

ca mark le you nd r ar

say wa?

Route Line

Día de los Muertos

This fall explore the Pacific Northwest in both comfort and style in one of Route Line’s fleet of adventure ready campers and vans. Founded in 2021, in Seattle a fleet of premium van, camper and trailer rentals. These best-in-class vehicles serve travelers and outdoor enthusiasts with independent spirits, offering a convenient alternative to purchasing a costly camper or RV. Vehicles are outfitted with plenty of thoughtfully curated amenities, and the inclusive membership model is appealing to many who want to hit the road—with no strings attached.

Reserve or subscribe online.

Steeped in centuries of Hispanic tradition, Tieton’s Arts and Humanities organization brings a vibrant Día de los Muertos—Day of the Dead—in celebration of Hispanic heritage with a northwest twist to the Yakima Valley. Event organizers will host a community altar for visitors to commemorate loved ones who have passed. The exhibition runs October 30 through November 20, Friday, noon-3 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m., as well as by appointment. This year will also include a full day of festivities featuring arts and crafts activities, a sand painting by Seattlebased Oaxacan artist Fulgencio Lazo, sugar skull decorating and myriad of other crafts and culinary experiences. Activities are hosted Sunday, October 30, and admission is free.

www.routeline.com

www.tietonarts.org

Route Line

camark y len our

da r

Fresh Hop Ale Festival Beer drinkers delight—nothing screams autumn in Washington like a crisp fresh hopped brew, and Yakima’s Fresh Hop Ale Festival apex of the harvest season. Yakima Valley is home to 77 percent of the United States’ hop crop, and as a global growing region, is second only to Germany. More than seventy Washington breweries, cideries and wineries are set to participate giving attendees the opportunity to fully take in the rich variety of brews the region has to offer. This years’ festivities will be hosted at the Sozos Sports Complex on Saturday, October 8. Tickets are available for purchase online. www.freshhopalefestival.com

14 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Photos: LOGE

Best of the Northwest Art Festival After a nearly two-year hiatus, Seattle’s premier art and fine craft show is back featuring 117 local artists and makers.

Held in-person at Hangar 30 in Warren G. Magnuson Park, the festival runs November 11-13. Upon entry, patrons can peruse the galleries accompanied by live music all while sipping wine provided by Martedi Cellars. Exhibits will feature ceramic, glass and leather artists in tandem with jewelers, textile designers and other multimedia makers. Appetizers and one entry to the showcase’s raffle are also included in a ticket purchase. Advance discount tickets go on sale October 1 online.

LOGE Experiences Set in the backdrop of the Wenatchee and Cascade mountains, Leavenworth has the proximity to the wilderness to satisfy any savvy outdoor adventurer with the charm and comfort of an alpine-inspired village. LOGE Camps hotel concept is designed to get guests outside and accommodate adventures. Guests can register for activities ranging from a Leavenworth Historical Walking Tour to enjoy the town’s rich Bavarian heritage to a Mountain View E-Bike Tour, a 16-mile ride on electric, pedal assist bicycles, that highlights the extraordinary scenic views. Book your stay online.

www.nwartalliance.org/nwaaevents/2021-bnw-fall-show

ur yo AR k r D ma EN

CA

L

www.logecamps.com/leavenworth-wa

Feller This women-owned business is crafting heirloom quality rainwear with a modern twist of bright colors and vibrant patterns that will brighten up any Seattle autumn day. Since its founding in 2020 by New York designer Wendy Feller, Feller has been creating rain jackets, rain coats, and rain trenches from natural fibers, sustainable materials and earth-friendly, water-resistant finishes. After relocating to Seattle and encountering the region’s drizzly atmosphere, Feller wanted to create an outerwear collection that served needs with style. Jackets, as well as cashmere, accessories and rain boots are available for purchase online. www.feller.clothing

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

15

David Floratos

say wa?

Spokane indie rock band BaLonely comes out of the pandemic with a more tailored sound.

Musician

A Piece of BaLonely Thank You, I’m Sorry is the Spokane rock band’s most personal album yet

Listen on Spotify

written by Ben Salmon

THERE IS A noticeable difference between BaLonely’s 2022 album Thank You, I’m Sorry and the band’s earlier releases.

Feast your ears on a heaping helping of the Spokane band’s spirited brand of indie rock, led by guitarist and vocalist Norman Robbins. Where BaLonely previously felt like a tuneful train teetering down the tracks, the new album sounds more patient, more measured, more assured.

There’s a reason for that, and like a lot of things that have changed in recent years, it ties back to the pandemic. You see, BaLonely started working on Thank You, I’m Sorry in spring 2020, and it wasn’t long before they realized they—like most of the rest of the world—had some extra time on their hands. So they took advantage of it. “(In the past), we’d set aside a weekend and knock out as much recording as possible,” Robbins said. “(This time), we set up all of our equipment and just left it all up so every week we could meet … and hit record whenever we felt good about it.

The difference in pace really allowed us to have more control over the performance.”

The uncertainty around playing shows freed up BaLonely to loosen up and have fun while making Thank You, I’m Sorry. (“Our attitude … was that there were low stakes,” Robbins said with a laugh.) The result is a collection of ten tracks that retain the band’s wiry post-punk sound while also highlighting a 16

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

bunch of sharp hooks and melodic elements that elevate BaLonely to a new level.

Taking their time was part of the equation, and so was a change of scenery halfway through the recording process.

“We moved into a studio for the first time,” Robbins said.

“We’d always done everything in my house, so it was fun to have this new creative space to add layers to the tracks we recorded in my basement.”

BaLonely formed in 2016 out of the ashes of another band called Holy Cows! and released its debut album, Stories, in 2018, and its sophomore effort, Staples, a year later. Besides Robbins, the band’s lineup includes Kristin Robbins (bass), Cody Brooks (drums), Alex Smith (guitar/vocals) and Adam Smith (guitar/ keyboards).

In addition to being a more confident record, Thank You, I’m Sorry also sounds like BaLonely’s most personal album yet, with themes of departure and change recurring throughout the tracks. The songs are inspired by personal experiences, Robbins said, but what they’re about is really up to you.

“This time, I really wanted to leave more room for interpretation for the listener so that someone else’s life could mold into the words one way or another,” he said.

Murray Krow

say wa?

Bibliophile

Breakout novelist Leyna Krow lives in Spokane with her husband and two children.

Fiction on Fire Magical realism, humor ignite a historical novel set in Spokane interview by Cathy Carroll

IT’S THE YEAR 1889, and when fire destroys the frontier boomtown of Spokane Falls, it also sparks opportunity for a banker on the verge of suicide, a woman whose clairvoyance has long driven her to drink and the con man hired to investigate the fire’s cause. Fire Season, just out from Leyna Krow, was longlisted for the First Novel Prize by the Center for Fiction and hailed as “devilishly funny and endlessly inventive” by fellow Spokane novelist Jess Walter, the #1 New York Times bestselling author of Beautiful Ruins.

With the character of Roslyn Beck, you continue your use of strange experiences set in familiar places. Tell us more about your penchant for this.

I definitely consider myself primarily a writer of magical realism, or fabulism. That’s my wheelhouse for sure. So even though Fire Season is historical fiction, I always knew it was also going to have weird, magical elements to it. Stories that have weird stuff, fantastical stuff in them, they’re fun. It opens the door for a lot of humor and I like to be funny. But weirdness also can give new ways of accessing old stories, and new avenues for empathy.

With Roslyn, I have a character who is a prostitute in the wild West, which is kind of a cliché. Every reader already has an image of that character. But if she’s magical, what then?

You don’t know her like you thought you did. That gives me an entryway to say something new. I never would have thought to write traditional historical fiction. That seems daunting. I needed to stay in the genre I knew, even if that meant working outside the bounds of a lot of people’s expectations for historical writing.

How did the great fire of 1889 in Spokane inspire this novel?

I live in Spokane, where the book is set. The summer after I finished grad school, I worked as a city tour guide.

Every day, I told the story of the 1889 fire that decimated

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Spokane Falls (Spokane’s original name). It’s such a weird story because it is so crucial to the city Spokane has become, but there is no real consensus on how the fire started. I thought about this a lot when I had that job, and about how a story with no clear facts gives a lot of freedom to someone who wants to write about it. I love history and historical fiction, but I have always been intimidated by the thought of a research-heavy project. The fact that no amount of research was going to lead to a true answer opened a door for me. I felt I could make the story whatever I wanted.

What are some things in the novel that reveal interesting facts about Spokane in the late 1800s?

The 1889 fire was a really big turning point in the city’s history, and you can still see evidence of that transformation today; buildings that survived the fire or were built as part of the reconstruction effort are still standing. Also, some of Spokane’s current businesses got their start as opportunists, so to speak, of the fire’s aftermath. My favorite example is the Davenport Hotel, which is this big, beautiful hotel in the middle of downtown. It started as a breakfast restaurant, operating out of a tent after the fire. It was called Louis Davenport’s Waffle Foundry and was tremendously popular. I like waffles a lot, so I sort of wish it was still around in that iteration.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

17

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Jarrod Jackson, Nourish / Sequim

Crossbuck in Walla Walla is a house of talent and a table full of surf and turf.

Beervana

Crossbuck Crosses the State written and photographed by Jackie Dodd YOU COULD make the case that Crossbuck Brewing and its conjoined twin of a restaurant Walla Walla Steak Co. started in Walla Walla. You’d have a good case, after all, the pair of award-winning businesses first opened their doors in a historic train depot in Walla Walla almost four years ago. The truth is the collaboration of talent that came together to form the powerhouse team behind the two businesses has nearly a century of combined food and beverage experience, starting the journey that would lead them to this destination decades earlier and all across the globe.

Dan Thiessen, managing partner, traversed the world using his degree from Culinary Institute of America from kitchen to kitchen collecting experiences, knowledge and dedication to the customer experience. From Eastern Washington to Switzerland, he returned to the Pacific Northwest to lend his accumulated knowledge to Crossbuck/Walla Walla Steak Co.’s newest addition, a large hybrid taproom-fine dining space in downtown Woodinville.

Paul Mackay, owner and partner, is himself a member of Washington restaurant royalty, if there was such a thing.

He did, after all, create the phenomenon known as the El Gaucho family of businesses. Add in the chefs, managers, and brewers and this was a team poised to make noise in Washington’s dining scene from the beginning.

Months after opening the original location in Walla Walla, Wine Enthusiast 18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

named it a top 100. It’s not just the food that has people talking, just a mere nine months after opening its doors, Crossbuck Brewing won a coveted Great American Beer Festival (GABF) award for NoPac IPA, as well as a Washington Beer Award for Blues Crew Lavender Wit. Needless to say, the second location, on the other side of the state, is cause for excitement among locals, however the opening has been slow. The space Crossbuck and Walla Walla Steak Co. inhabits is expansive, the line between the two ventures inextinguishable. The taproom side has a casual, open bar with more than two dozen craft beer offerings, including some local favorites. The menu is upscale pub food, heavy on the steak and seafood. The bar on the other side is more private, with a cozy feel, and serves craft cocktails and steakhouse food offerings.

“Most people rush to open a new restaurant, concerned about the revenue they need to make, but that’s a mistake,” Thiessen said. “No matter how well you train your staff, you can’t account for everything. … Starting with a small number of seatings helps make sure that we can create a great customer experience from the beginning.” This decision could only be made by a veteran, one with mistakes he has learned from.

Whether it’s a pint and bite at the bar to watch the game (TVs are in the taproom), or a cozy table for two and craft cocktails, the new location will deliver.

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Lovage in the Thyme of Carrots Nourish—a seasonal, organic and dedicated gluten-free restaurant in Sequim—grows its own produce, including lovage, which is featured in this carrot cocktail.

• 2 ounces lovage-infused New Deal Gin No. 1 (see recipe below) • 1 ounce fresh carrot juice • 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice • 3/4 ounce ginger honey syrup (see recipe below) • Dash chili bitters • Lovage and thyme sprigs, to garnish FOR LOVAGE-INFUSED GIN • 2 sprigs lovage • 750 ml bottle of New Deal Gin No. 1 FOR GINGER HONEY SYRUP • 3 tablespoons fresh ginger • 4 ounces honey • 4 ounces water FOR LOVAGE-INFUSED GIN In a container, combine two hefty sprigs of lovage and one 750 ml bottle of gin. Cover and let stand overnight, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

FOR GINGER HONEY SYRUP Peel and finely chop enough fresh ginger to yield 3 tablespoons. Add ginger to container and muddle until ginger releases its juice. Add 4 ounces of honey and 4 ounces of boiling water to the container and stir until well combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight, then strain through a finemesh sieve.

FOR COCKTAIL Shake ingredients over ice. Strain into rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with lovage and thyme sprigs.

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Sea to Shore Seafood Company

food + drink

CRAVINGS CANNOLI There are plenty of reasons to make your way to Whidbey Island’s Ciao—but many people will agree that the cannoli is one of the best ones. Enjoy the pillowy, soft pastry and pick up some provisions to go or enjoy dinner or a late afternoon spritz.

701 N. MAIN ST. COUPEVILLE www.ciao.store

COFFEE MOCKTAILS Some days you’re craving a drink, but not feeling like alcohol, enter the coffee mocktail menu at Nadine’s. Choose from five signature mocktails including the old fashioned, espresso sour, espresso and Coke, Tongue Tied and Black Velvet.

2908 WETMORE AVE. EVERETT www.nadinescoffeehouse.com

MEXICAN FOOD

Gastronomy

Chelsea and Pete Keutmann—aboard their fishing boat—are behind Sea to Shore Seafood, which focuses on sustainable, wild-caught Alaskan salmon and halibut.

Sea to Shore Seafood Company written by Cara Strickland PERHAPS IT ISN’T every little girl’s dream to become a fisherwoman, but it was for Chelsea Keutmann, who grew up on a fishing boat in Alaska. She and her husband, Pete, bonded over fish, and together they built Sea to Shore Seafood company, which specializes in 100 percent traceable, sustainable wild Alaskan salmon and halibut. Although the company has grown, it’s still a small operation, which allows the couple to be detail-oriented about how they handle their catch. Their fish is processed quickly on the boat for best filet taste and texture. With such great natural resources at their fingertips, the Keutmanns are also passionate about 100 percent utilization, meaning that nothing gets wasted, including the heads and roe. If you’re in the Bellingham area, you can order home delivery, or meet your fisherpeople at Bellingham, Lake Stevens, Anacortes or Everett farmers’ markets. Can’t make it there? Certain products ship nationwide.

WESTSIDE-AREA MARKETS, BELLINGHAM DELIVERY + SHIPPING NATIONWIDE www.seatoshoreseafood.com

20 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

If you’re in search of authentic Mexican food, you’ll want to check out Fonda Oaxaqueña, with locations in both Wenatchee and Chelan. The restaurants started with a passion to bring Oaxacan food to the area and to serve recipes passed down from relatives—a mother and grandmother. Don’t miss the mole!

136 EASTMONT AVE. WENATCHEE 127 E. JOHNSON AVE. CHELAN www.fondaoaxaquena.com

SOUP Sometimes all you want is soup, but it’s even better if it’s filled with ingredients that are nourishing as well as delicious.

That’s where Yodelin’s scratch-made bone broth soups really shine, whether you’re enjoying a Lummi Island seafood cioppino, a wild halibut coconut yellow curry soup, or a vegan carrot ginger lime broth, you know that every satisfying bite is also good for you.

633 FRONT ST. #1346 LEAVENWORTH www.yodelinbroth.com

BEST PLACES FOR

TEA

Photos: Crafted

food + drink

PAISLEY PARLOUR This tea room and sweet shop in Gilman Village is a cute and cozy place to enjoy afternoon tea, complete with tiny sandwiches, scones, seasonal dessert offerings, and individual pots of tea from their sumptuous selection. Bringing little ones along? The Royalty and Small tea options are sure to delight.

317 NW GILMAN BLVD., SUITE 49 ISSAQUAH www.paisleyparlour.com

DANDELION TEAHOUSE & APOTHECARY This newcomer to Vancouver blends a love of tea and wellness together to create a cafe and shop selling tea and specialty tea drinks along with small batch skincare products. Try a Lavender Pearl or an Immuni-Tea (most drinks come hot or iced).

109 W. 7TH ST. VANCOUVER www.dandelionteahouse.com

REVIVAL TEA COMPANY Creep down the stairs into a space that once housed a speakeasy and treat yourself to a tea flight (add chocolate for a decadent pairing experience), or sip a tea mocktail while you catch up with a friend. Grab some tea to take home, or order online for nationwide shipping.

415 W. MAIN AVE., SUITE 100 SPOKANE www.revivalteacompany.com

Crafted in Yakima is a farm-to-table dinner venue with well-crafted cocktails.

Dining

Crafted written by Cara Strickland

Visit this tranquil garden to experience a traditional tea ceremony. Most weekends, you can make reservations to participate in this timeless ritual called Chado, or The Way of Tea. You’ll spend forty minutes learning about and practicing this ancient art.

IN THE HEART of downtown Yakima, there’s a family-owned restaurant striving to bring a big city sensibility to a small town. Crafted, a labor of love for owners Dan and Mollie Koommoo, is open only during dinner hours, serving food as locally sourced as possible, with each dish served family style. If you want to put yourself into the chef ’s hands completely, your table can choose the two-hour tasting menu with optional wine pairing. You’ll find a frequently changing menu, with fresh asparagus in the spring and perfect peaches in late summer. Beyond a well curated beer and wine list, you’ll find a frequently rotating selection of craft cocktails (picture a smoked Manhattan, or an Earl Greyhound, made with Earl Grey tea infused vodka for a twist on a classic).

The hospitality, food and drinks are the perfect end to a day of wine tasting and exploring Yakima Valley.

1075 LAKE WASHINGTON BLVD. EAST SEATTLE www.seattlejapanesegarden.org

22 N. 1ST ST. YAKIMA www.craftedyakima.com

SEATTLE JAPANESE GARDEN

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farm to table

Farm to Table

An Apple a Day The iconic Washington fruit is an autumnal delight written by Corinne Whiting photography by Brooke Fitts

MARK BARRETT, owner of Yakima Valley’s Barrett Orchards, has been farming for forty-five years—not counting a childhood spent among the crops. Since 2004, the fourth-generation fruit tree farmer has also co-owned retail hub Washington Fruit Place alongside his wife, Cheryl.

With several of their ten grandchildren now involved in farm and market operations, the business is six generations deep.

Barrett Orchards grows a variety of apples, as well as other fruit.

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farm to table

Mark and Cheryl Barrett stand with trees full of Gala apples, almost ready for picking.

When we spoke with Barrett in early August, he admitted that a “terrible spring of cold and ice” had damaged some of their pears and cherries during bloom, yet apples were proving to be the highlight of the year. “They came through the bad winter the best,” he said. “The apples look fabulous.”

Thanks to West Yakima’s rich volcanic soil, visitors to Barrett Orchards enjoy fresh, tree-ripened goods like apricots, peaches, nectarines, pears and apples that get picked daily. The farm’s apple varieties range from Fuji and Gala to Honeycrisp, Cameo and Gravenstein, a more eastern alternative. Then there’s Washington state’s newest addition—the cutting-edge Cosmic Crisp—for which Barrett was on a board to start promotion.

(He now deems it his favorite apple variety.)

A cross between the Enterprise (an old European variety) and Honeycrisp, the Cosmic Crisp gets described as a firm and juicy

fruit that’s crunchier than a Honeycrisp and a bit tangier, too.

The best part? “It stores really well because of its parentage,” Barrett said. Since it can be eaten all season-long and doesn’t brown, this apple proves ideal for eating experiences such as farmers market sampling. Although this variety was introduced about seven years ago, they’ve been growing them at Barrett Orchards for five. “We’re learning as we go,” Barrett said.

He describes his “West Valley” Yakima location as incredibly arid. In fact, it gets only eight inches of total precipitation per year. Thankfully, since water is one of the property’s most important resources, Barrett and his family have senior water rights, due to the fact that his grandfather helped build the canal and dam that brought water to the region in the 1930s. Today, the family gets first access, before the water flows down the river to other farms.

Thanks to West Yakima’s rich volcanic soil, visitors to Barrett Orchards enjoy fresh, tree-ripened goods like apricots, peaches, nectarines, pears and apples that get picked daily.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Washington Fruit Place at Barrett Orchards is nestled in the Yakima Valley. Employee Mary Sevigny stands in the farm shop next to seasonal fruit sold by the pound. The entrance to Barrett Orchards as seen from Pecks Canyon Road. Forman Gilberto Medina Ramos hauls freshly picked pears ready for eating, buying and shipping.

Since Barrett was born into the industry, he said this work comes to him as second nature. “I enjoy fruit farming and all its aspects, from cherries to apples,” he said. He also loves testing varieties. He estimates that he has tested thirty-plus apple options over the years. Some don’t make it to production, he said, because they fail to meet marketing standards, which are key considerations beyond flavor and quality.

Apple picking at Barrett Orchard takes place from around August 15, beginning with the Gravenstein, and lasts throughout September and October. (Fuji and Grannysmith close out the season.) Much has changed over the decades in terms of how the plantings are done. Farmers used to plant the trees 20-by-20 feet apart, meaning about 180 trees could fit to an acre. Nowadays, high-density plantings take place in three-feet by 10-feet increments, meaning farmers can grow 1,450 trees on an acre. In recent years, the heat has been so intense that Barrett has had to install an expensive overhead cooling system as well.

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Two things Barrett anxiously awaits each fall–delectable apple pies and apple crisps made from their orchard’s treasures.

On their property, they also enjoy selling local products such as chocolate-covered Chukar Cherries, plus homemade cider made from fresh, seasonal apples from the orchard. These days, they take their apples to a friend who has a pasteurization company and helps with production.

On the topic of cider, Washington’s Schilling Hard Cider jazzes up the season, too, by offering beverages that are fresh-pressed from local apples and made using no artificial ingredients or preservatives. As one of the nation’s top five hard cider companies, Schilling has become a pillar of Seattle’s craft cider scene, and it has a bustling, dog-friendly tasting room in the heart of Fremont.

The company’s most popular—Excelsior Red Glo—is a dry imperial cider made using rare Lucy Glo apples, a cross between the Honeycrisp and the Airlie Red Flesh apple. It starts with a tangy flavor and finishes with sweet hints. This fall, Schilling also pours a seasonal spiced chai hard cider called “Chaider.”

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farm to table

The Flora Bakehouse

Washington Recipes

Apples, Savory and Sweet Braised Chicken with Apples and Sage Town & Country Markets / SEATTLE • • • • • • • • • •

8 chicken thighs, bone-in Olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar 2 crisp apples of choice, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges 2 large shallots, thinly sliced ⅔ cup chicken broth 1 teaspoon cider vinegar ½ teaspoon chopped fresh sage Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a large sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-high

heat. Lightly coat bottom of pan with olive oil. When oil is hot, brown chicken skin-side down, working in batches if necessary. Remove to a plate.

Add butter, brown sugar, apples and shallots to pan.

Sauté, stirring occasionally, until apples are browned, about 5 minutes.

Add broth, vinegar and sage.

Stir, scraping up brown bits from bottom of pan. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Return chicken to pan along with any accumulated juices.

Reduce heat and simmer, loosely covered, until chicken is cooked through and sauce is slightly reduced, 20-25 minutes. Serve hot.

Apple Membrillo

Otium Grill & Greens / SEATTLE Kalen Schramke • 3 pounds of Cosmic Crisp apples, peeled and cored • 1½ cup sugar • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • ½ teaspoon allspice • ½ teaspoon white pepper • 1 teaspoon Kosher salt • 2 ounces whiskey • ½ cup butter, small dice Editor’s note: This is a sweet and savory apple conserve, very similar to quince paste, that pairs perfectly with cheese. This one uses the Cosmic Crisp apple from Washington State, but any firm tart apple work greats.

Mix together 1 cup sugar with cinnamon, allspice, white

pepper and salt in a large bowl.

Coat the apples evenly with the mix, and let sit for an hour.

In a 9-inch cake, pan add the remaining ½-cup sugar with the butter and distribute evenly on the bottom. After the apples have rested, discard the juice that has accumulated and arrange in the cake pan as tightly as possible.

Pre-heat oven to 300 degrees, pour the whiskey over the apples, and cover with tin foil. Bake for 4 ½ hours.

Lightly press the apples down with a dinner plate, then chill overnight. Serve with blue cheese and your favorite charcuterie.

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Heirloom Apple Crisp from The Flora Bakehouse.

Heirloom Apple Crisp

The Flora Bakehouse / SEATTLE Lesley Pettigrew FOR FILLING • 16 cups mixed tart heirloom apples • ¾ cup sugar (more if needed) • Pinch salt FOR TOPPING • ¾ cup butter, melted • 1½ cups brown sugar • 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour • 1⅔ cups rolled oats • ½ teaspoon salt • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon • ½ teaspoon ground cardamom • ½ teaspoon ground ginger • ⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Wash apples, peel, remove the core and slice into 1/8 inch-thick slices. Place all apple slices in a large bowl.

Toss with sugar and salt.

Place in a buttered 9x13 inch

baking dish, cover tightly and bake for 30 minutes at 375 degrees.

Remove from oven, stir, and taste to see if more sugar is needed. Bake (uncovered) an additional 20-30 minutes to reduce juices.

While apples are baking, prepare topping. Mix all topping ingredients together in a bowl and stir with a wooden spoon. When mixture is cohesive, pour out onto a silpat- or parchment-lined baking sheet with rim. Break mixture into crumbles with your hands, and then freeze for about 10 minutes. Bake at 375 until just golden brown and set.

Remove from oven and set aside until needed (break up any large chunks as topping cools).

When apples are just tender and juices are bubbling, top with previously baked crisp topping and bake at 350 for about 20 minutes. Serve warm or room temperature.

farm to table

Brittany Kelley/Town & Country Markets

Town & Country Markets’ Braised Chicken with Apples and Sage.

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home + design

On the Water These two Washington abodes celebrate their proximity to the sea written by Melissa Dalton 28

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home + design

AT LEFT This Chukanut Bay house sits on a perch with clean views of the Pacific. ABOVE The kitchen is unlike most others for its views, too.

Photos: Andrew Pogue

Chuckanut Bay: A waterview home for friends to gather EARLY IN the design process for their new home on Chuckanut Bay, Leanne and Bob Kramer invited architect Ryan Stephenson to visit their site. It’s over an acre in an established Bellingham-area neighborhood, with extraordinary uninterrupted views of the Puget Sound, San Juan Islands and Olympic Mountain Range. “It’s kind of in your face,” said Leanne of the view. “You don’t have to stand on one leg to look around a tree or anything.” Stephenson, who runs the Stephenson Design Collective in Seattle, was equally struck during that first visit. “It’s just an incredible view that you don’t get in many other places,” said Stephenson.

That late afternoon meeting led well into the evening, with dogs running about, food and drinks flowing, and the conversation covering just about every topic related to design and life. Bob, a bladesmith, had watched Minka, a short documentary about a home built over forty years in Japan, and asked that the architect to watch it, too, as well as listen to Marc Cohn’s song “Olana” before beginning design. “I remember telling them that the site’s so perfect, the important thing is not to take anything away from it,” said Stephenson. That first meeting “was very inspiring. I left just wanting to start drawing.”

Such is how the Kramers’ finished home revolves around experience, rather than hitting a punch list of design musts.

They began with essentially the same footprint as the preexisting house on the lot, adding where needed, to cap the size at a total of 2,504 square feet. The views were capitalized from all angles, even the sidewalk out front. Stephenson deliberately captured a partial view of the water for passersby, framed between the main house and the auxiliary building, a garage with two studios. The exterior is clad in steel and black-stained cedar, both of which helps to minimize the street presence.

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Andrew Pogue

Andrew Pogue

Andrew Pogue

Andrew Pogue

home + design

ABOVE, FROM TOP The architect created a peek-through for passersby. The interior has an organic, modern and Mid-century modern vibe. The couple loves to cook and now love the views from the kitchen.

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The kitchen was granted pride of place for the couple, who love to cook, with glass doors that slide back to connect to the deck. “We’re always in the kitchen, so the kitchen got bigger and the living room got smaller,” said Leanne. The center island stretches 17 feet long, and one end is a table on casters that can roll outside. “We also made sure we had a house that wasn’t precious,” said Leanne. “We have a dirty dog, and my husband’s work is dirty because he’s working with metal and wood all the time.”

That early design meeting exemplifies what the couple’s house has since become after finishing construction in 2017.

They started a tradition of “Drinks on the Deck.” “It would be spontaneous,” said Leanne. “I would text, ‘It’s a nice night.

Bring whatever is in the refrigerator.’” Of course, weird combinations might ensue. “Sometimes people would show up with four hot dogs,” said Leanne with a laugh. But the point of the house has always been, much like the movie, music, and design meeting that started it all, about the lives inside. “It’s ours to share,” said Leanne.

home + design

Taj Howe

An old boathouse on the San Juan Islands got an elegant rebuild to create a coastal sanctuary.

San Juan Islands: A boathouse lives lightly on the shoreline This project began with the idea to rebuild an old boathouse on the Salish Sea, but the land and water that lie beneath it also got an overhaul. The existing building had been cobbled together in the late 1960s and since fallen into disrepair, leaving it unsafe and not up to code. Seattle firm Prentiss + Balance + Wickline worked with contractor Dalgarno Construction and interior designer LeeAnn Baker to design and build a more elegant structure, which provided the owners with an opportunity to restore the shoreline in the process.

Environmental consultants were on hand through every phase of the project to ensure marine health and safety, from design, to construction, to surveys after completion in 2021.

The team removed 400 square feet of creosote-soaked logs and concrete from the water, and replaced them with 4 square feet of thin steel supports that “touch down into the water in a much more surgical way,” OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

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home + design

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Taj Howe

The architects wanted to keep the boathouse’s modest profile intact yet offer generous views and outdoor spaces.

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Andrew Pogue

Taj Howe

Taj Howe

home + design

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The boathouse is simple in structure and beautiful. The ash floors and lighter woods add to a spacious feel, though less than 650 square feet.

The small kitchen area allows for entertaining as the sun sets over the Pacific.

said project architect Philip Burkhardt, who worked aside principal Dan Wickline.

The new building stays within the existing footprint and volume of the old, with the design team taking cues from how it “did not draw a lot of attention to itself,” said Burkhardt. “It was pretty low to the ground and then opened up onto the water.” To do the same, the architects specified a corner-to-corner gable roof that skews lower on the shoreside, and then angles up to allow the water-facing window walls to capture the sweep of the sea. Mechanicals, a kitchenette and bathroom are placed shoreward, with additional windows offering select views of land, like the mossy rocks framed above the kitchen sink.

Material selection emphasizes continuity from inside to out, with durable thermally-treated ash decking and stained tightknot cedar on the exterior, becoming Ash floors and cedar paneling on the interior. At 634 square feet, the new structure is a bit smaller than the old, but can flex widely in function, whether the owners are sitting with their morning coffee, having family over for a crab boil, or just need an extra bed to nap, courtesy of the daybed tucked beside the fireplace.

“It is pretty marvelous to throw open those corner doors and just listen to the waves underneath you,” said Burkhardt.

At 634 square feet, the new structure is a bit smaller than the old, but can flex widely in function, whether the owners are sitting with their morning coffee, having family over for a crab boil, or just need an extra bed to nap, courtesy of the daybed tucked beside the fireplace.

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home + design

Mary Morris Solomon converted her backyard shed into an illustration studio.

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Solomon watched YouTube videos and finished the shed interior herself.

DIY: Backyard Studio, or She-Shed photography by Katheryn Moran

IN DECEMBER OF 2019, Mary Morris Solomon, then an aesthetician, ordered a shed from the Burlington, Washington-based company Heritage Portable Buildings. The plan was to start seeing clients closer to her Ferndale home— much closer, as in just steps from the back door. Shortly after the shed was delivered, the pandemic shut down the world.

“Everyone was so upset and sad,” said Solomon, who studied art in college.

“So, I started painting individual cards and sending them out to people, just to make them feel better.” After a time, Solomon started getting inquiries about purchasing the cards, and began fulfilling orders, working out of the basement and painting every day. Then she remembered her half-finished shed in the backyard. “I was like, ‘Why am I in the basement?’” said Solomon.

“I told my husband, ‘I’m going to move my art stuff out there.’”

Solomon, who jokes that she has no building skills, watched YouTube videos and finished the shed interior herself. It has since become home to Mary Gold Tales, where Solomon paints every day, and sells custom watercolor illustrations and wholesale retail greeting cards. “It makes me feel so happy to have my own space,” said Solomon.

Inspired? Here’s Solomon’s tips for creating a backyard studio of your own.

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home + design

CONSIDER SIZE AND PLACEMENT Know how much space you’ll need and plan accordingly. Solomon wanted storage, so she bought a model that has a front porch with stow space in the cavity above it.

As for where to put the shed in the yard, “Really pay attention to where the shade and the sun falls, because it can get hot,” said Solomon.

IDENTIFY PERMIT AND ELECTRICAL NEEDS Check local jurisdictions for requirements regarding a building permit, as well as protocol for installing electrical, and restrictions for setbacks. Where Solomon lives, it was allowable to install a structure sized less than 200 square feet without pulling a permit. Identify where electricity is needed in the shed, and consult an electrician for wiring, if necessary. Check for buried utility lines in the vicinity.

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GO SHOPPING Solomon purchased from Heritage Portable Buildings because they were able to work with her stated budget and customize the structure according to her needs.

It came with the door, windows, walls, and deck, and Solomon chose upgrades, like having the manufacturer add insulation to the floor and roof, and paint the exterior.

PREP Heritage Portable Buildings recommends gravel pads for their buildings. Follow manufacturer instructions in this regard, and make sure the site is level and clear for delivery drop-off.

PERSONALIZE Solomon added insulation to the interior walls before putting up plywood to finish, then caulked and painted.

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FROM TOP Mary Morris Solomon’s backyard studio houses her illustration and paper goods business, Mary Gold Tales.

Solomon began painting individual cards and sending them to friends during the pandemic.

GO BEYOND THE MASK Tickets at BeyondKingTut.com NOVEMBER 4 – JANUARY 8

home + design

Studio Pieces That Pop

The Anglepoise is a classic that still looks good some eighty-seven years after its invention in 1935, by a British automotive engineer that developed a formula for a new type of spring, combining it with a pivoting arm for distinct form and function. The 90 Mini Mini is a more recent version, made much smaller for petite workspaces, and with a dimmable LED bulb.

For those of us who still cling to paper files, check out the Stow File Cabinet from NYC’s Poppin for a cute storage option. Made of powder-coated steel and shipped fully assembled, it’s a durable and attractive place to hide paper from sight. www.poppin.com

www.rejuvenation.com

Of course, the desk chair is important, but what about those moments when you might need a thinking break away from the screen?

Enter the Bernard Lounge Chair from Hay, fashioned to look both classic and modern. It has a solid wood frame with a marine-grade canvas for the back and sling seat. Plus, it comes in some fun colors. www.us.hay.com

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Olympic National Park • Pacific Beaches & Hoh Rain Forest Wild & Scenic Rivers • Kalaloch Beach • Historic Towns

From Sea - to -Summit & Canal - to - Coast Four Seasons

Port LudLow Port HadLock Chimacum

Adventures for All

Jefferson County - the Heart of the Olympics www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com 360-437-0120

Start your Journey at the

Olympic Penisula Gateway Visitors Center The “Log Cabin” at Hwy’s 104 & 19

Quinn Width/Seattle Seawolves Rugby

mind + body

Pulling Out the Rugby Seattle Seawolves’ Drew Durutalo goes all in on sport and punishment at 34 written by Jonathan Shipley

“GROWING UP in Fiji, rugby was always a massive part of me,” Drew Durutalo observed. It helped that he, himself, is massive at 6 feet 2 inches and 250 pounds of competitive fire. “My family were all into it,” he said.

“So were my friends.” Some of his friends are now the Seattle Seawolves, a professional team and part of Major League Rugby. Seattle has embraced the team like family.

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mind + body

Quinn Width/Seattle Seawolves Rugby

“You have to be extremely strong and fit [to play rugby],” said Seattle Seawolves team member Drew Durutalo, center. “It has the contact element of football with the fitness of basketball.

It’s non-stop.”

“From the age of 14, I knew I wanted to play rugby professionally,” Durutalo said.

He pursued his dream and did well as the 34 year old nears the end of his career in Seattle. It has been quite a career. He has been capped by the U.S. national sevens team and the U.S. national rugby union team.

“Not many people are able to say that they achieved their childhood dream,” he said. “I always remind myself how grateful I am for the journey and the people I have met along the way.”

For those unfamiliar with the sport, rugby is a team game played with an oval ball that may be kicked, carried and passed hand-tohand. Points are scored by grounding the ball behind the opponents’ goal line or by kicking it between two posts and over the crossbar of opponents’ goals.

In some ways, it’s like American football, but not quite. Rugby is essentially a mix of a lot of different skill sets into one sport, Durutalo said. “You have to be extremely strong and fit,” he said. “It has the contact element of football with the fitness of basketball. It’s non-stop.”

It is non-stop, and punishing. But that hasn’t stopped Durutalo. “When you sign up for a contact sport, injury is part and

Drew Durutalo

Professional Rugby Player, Seattle Seawolves Age: 34 Born: New York, New York Residence: Seattle

WORKOUT “I usually try to get a lift and run in daily, six days a week.”

DIET “I go by the 80/20 rule: 80 percent healthy and treat yourself the other 20 percent.”

INSPIRATION “Having an end goal.

Working toward something, like a rugby World Cup or an Olympics.”

parcel of being an athlete.” He’s broken bones. He’s been concussed. He’s had an ACL reconstruction.

He’s also won a lot. His club career includes playing with Japan’s Sunwolves in the 2016 season. He signed with the English Championship club Ealing Trailfinders and has also played for the Worcester Warriors.

He signed with the Seattle Seawolves in 2021 and again in 2022.

With international play, he played in the 2006 Under 19 Rugby World Championship. He played for the U.S. team at the 2015 Rugby World Cup in England. He played for the U.S. national sevens team in the 2016 summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro, finishing ninth.

“I want to play my last remaining years in Seattle,” he said. “The fans are awesome.” As part of his next role, Durutalo is also mentoring kids who want to play rugby at higher levels.. “I love helping younger players realize their full potential,” he said. “I’ve achieved everything that I set out to achieve in rugby.

I want to mentor those younger players.”

The behemoth of a man saunters out onto the field. A rugby ball awaits Durutalo.

There’s fire still in his heart and a younger player under his wing.

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Photo and artwork: courtesy of Christie Tirado

artist in residence

Christie Tirado with her exhibit, “Gráfica del Campo: Cultivating the Yakima Valley/Cultivando el Valle de Yakima,” at the Boxx Gallery in Tieton in 2021. AT RIGHT A piece in Tirado’s “America’s Essential Workers” series.

Emerging Artist Highlights Social Justice Yakima school teacher and artist Christie Tirado helps migrant workers and their children see themselves reflected in their community written by Ellen Hiatt

“An artist’s duty, as far as I’m concerned, is to reflect the times.”

— Nina Simone

YAKIMA ARTIST and school teacher Christie Tirado is soft spoken with dancing brown eyes. Born and raised in the United States by immigrant parents from Mexico, she retains the lilt of a bilingual speaker, occasionally peppering her words with a Spanish phrase.

She speaks of honor, privilege and responsibility.

The honor and privilege, she said, has been to teach her students, kindergarten through eight grades, and to connect with them, their families and the commu42

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nity. The responsibility she feels is to highlight the culture that so many of them never see reflected in their classrooms or experience outside their homes.

Through her teaching and through her own personal art, Tirado works to highlight the unseen, the migrant workers, the culture of families living in a foreign world. For many students, some of the cultural references are lost on them, as their families assimilate and traditions fall away.

Photos and artwork: courtesy of Christie Tirado

artist in residence

AT TOP Tirado’s A Night Shift in an American Dream. ABOVE Tirado creates block prints that reflect the times. In Mexico, printmaking has been a means of communication for centuries.

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Tirado’s parents kept traditions alive, and, as an art teacher, she has brought a greater understanding to her students, a great many of whom are Hispanic, children of migrant workers who pick fruit and hops under the blazing Central Washington sun.

The first year she was teaching, she introduced a lesson on Día De Los Muertos.

“Some students had heard of it. They had notions of it like Halloween,” Tirado said. She said they had been to Mexico with their families and saw repeated images but didn’t have the context behind them. Día De Los Muertos is about honoring family members who have died.

“I have had family members say that it wasn’t something they did (to observe the day), but their grandparents celebrated.

Now it’s tradition to … ¿cómo se … cultivate their family’s traditions moving forward. They want to celebrate and honor it.

They want to know about some of those stories. It’s been very, almost, how you say, eye opening, nurturing. It’s been a great way to celebrate their heritage.”

Through her own work, Tirado follows singer-songwriter Nina Simone’s lead, as she creates block prints that reflect the times.

In Mexico, printmaking has been a means of communication for centuries. Inexpensive to reproduce, the block prints were an effective tool for social change. Tirado picked up the medium with reflection on its roots, and her intent to highlight social injustice and help her students and their families see themselves reflected in their community.

She created her “Hop Series,” and then “America’s Essential Workers,” to little fanfare, she said. She was hoping to start conversations about their safety and wellbeing in a time when migrants’ work conditions had little changed while others worked from home.

The body of work is bold and detailed, with punches of color—deep red cherries, bright apples, and agriculture laborers represented by the black line art of the block print, surrounded by yellow and orange Monarch mariposas.

But the series didn’t gain traction.

“The pieces weren’t going to spaces where people could have access,” she said. “So when the pandemic hit, and all these articles were coming out on essential workers, and how they were on the front line, and the warehouse walkouts were historical.

It brought national attention to ‘Who are these people?’ These people have been doing this forever!”

When she submitted her portfolio to the Larry Summers fellowship, the recognition began to pour in.

“Her work was beautiful but it also spoke to a lot of people,” said Rebecca McDonald, manager of Davidson Galleries in Seattle, where Tirado was introduced in 2020 in a “Fall Introductions” show.

“She was giving a perspective that was not often seen in this area and doing it in a beautiful, graphic way. It spoke for itself,” McDonald said. “Her manner and what she finds important really spoke to us. We gravitated to her and to her work. She’s an important artist.”

McDonald added that Tirado’s work is “very accessible to the man on the street—to everybody. They can see it, and they can understand it. It reminds me a little of Käthe Kollwitz.”

Kollwitz (1867-1945) was a German artist who also worked in printmaking, and whose work depicted poverty, hunger and the struggles of the working class.

Tirado said she’s always tried to highlight social justice issues since she was an art student at the University of Washington.

“I guess I am still creating that now with my pieces,” she said, “I am just glad more people are able to have access to my prints highlighting Yakima Valley. It is an honor to be able to contribute to the community with art.”

“[Tirado] was giving a perspective that was not often seen in this area and doing it in a beautiful, graphic way. It spoke for itself.”

— Rebecca McDonald, manager of Davidson Galleries in Seattle

FROM TOP Tirado’s Trabajador Esencial, part of her “America’s Essential Workers” collection. Cosechando Hops, part of Tirado’s “Hop Series.”

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STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 51

pg. 50 Encompass Northwest takes kids out of a clinical setting to begin to heal.

Lara Swimmer

MY WORKSPACE 52

where nnture OUTNUMBERS

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t s e g r a l e h See t d Trees in redwoold along the the worf Titans Trail.

Grove o d o o w d e r e r o m 6 1 , s Plu -lined trails. tree orte

Find ALL Things To Do, Trails, Beaches, Lodging & Restaurants at VisitDelNorteCounty.com

startup

2050 Company

The 2050 Company co-founders Greg Gibson, left, and Austin Hirsh with some of their sustainable food products.

Startup

Smoothie Sailing to a Better Future at 2050 Co. Food waste is the enemy for this startup written by Jonathan Shipley ON EARTH DAY, 2016, the Paris Climate Accord was signed at a ceremony in New York City. The agreement is an international treaty on climate change. By 2050, the treaty outlines, the world should have net zero emissions.

While the leaders of the world were devising ways to help solve the climate crisis, Austin Hirsh, a young man hailing from Gig Harbor, was studying mechanical engineering in college at the University of San Diego. “I was interested in finding innovative ways to make our everyday lives more sustainable,” he said. He had thoughts of creating a robot that could mow lawns with zero emissions.

Things changed for him in 2019. A senior at the school (he’s now 25 and lives in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood), he came upon two statistics. The first from the National Resources Defense Council estimated that 50 percent of produce grown in the United States is wasted. The second from Project Drawdown, a nonprofit seeking climate solutions, identified food waste as the single-most important way to prevent global warming of 2 degrees celsius by 2050. “I realized that food waste was an area where I could make an impact right out of college as a sole founder,” Hirsh said. Wasting no time, that is what he did. He is the founder and CEO of the 2050 Company.

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The company, 2050, is a Seattle-based sustainable food startup focused on achieving zero waste, zero hunger and zero plastic. The founding team consists of Hirsh and his college colleague and roommate, Greg Gibson. Gibson joined the company after an initial $40,000 Kickstarter launch of their 2050 Smoothie.

The 2050 Smoothie is a freeze-dried powder mix. When blended with ice and water, voila, the densely nutritious delicious smoothie one expects, but without the waste of perishability. The 2050 Smoothie stays fresh for two years. “We effectively eliminated an important source of consumer waste,” Hirsh offered. The fruits and vegetables used in the product have all water removed, all the while keeping the flavors and nutrients. Once blended, Hirsch said, “Our smoothies are nearly indistinguishable from fresh or frozen smoothies.”

Hirsh admitted there’s a long way for his company to go. It won’t be all smooth sailing. “We are still 100 percent bootstrapped.” Funding has all come from non-dilutive sources, including two Kickstarter campaigns, multiple pitch competition wins, and the Jones and Foster Accelerator at the University of Washington, that offers mentoring and funding to early-stage, student-led companies during their first six months of operation.

Though the startup is in its infancy, Hirsh is already thinking and working toward bigger goals. He’s eager to have plastic-free packaging, and he’s adding pasta meals to the 2050 Company food line. “It feels good to see people inspired by the mission and excited to support us and our journey to a greener future.”

Perhaps, come 2050, the world’s leaders will reconvene, the climate crisis abating thanks to the climate accord, and cheers with clinking glasses of Hirsh’s smoothies in their hands.

Less stress, More .

Relaxation

Welcome to The Lodge at St. Edward State Park, nestled on 326-acres of shorefront forest just minutes from Seattle and Bellevue. Recently transformed to become one of the area’s premier hotels, featuring a spa, bars, restaurants, event spaces, and endless serenity. But what really sets it apart, aside from the high level of service, is its location in the middle of a forest oasis, making it possible to escape to the wilderness without leaving the city.

14466 Juanita Dr. NE, Kenmore, WA, 98028 425.470.6500 | thelodgeatstedward.com

what’s going up?

Expanding Child Care Lara Swimmer

New clinics meet the unique needs of the youngest clients written by Dameon Pesanti THIS YEAR, several new clinics are focusing their healing energies on a unique group of clients. New pediatric clinics around the state at reimagining care to better the lives of the children they serve.

ENCOMPASS SNOQUALMIE At Encompass Northwest’s new 10,000-squarefoot pediatric therapy facility in Snoqualmie, the nonprofit eschews a clinical setting and embraces space as a tool in the therapeutic process. The building blends the picturesque mountainous setting with an interior that’s flexible, functional and playful to make children feel at ease.

THE NATIVE PROJECT The Title V, Indian Health Services Contract Clinic in Spokane broke ground this spring on a new children and youth wellness center. The new building will provide youth-focused Indigenous practices, traditional therapy and wellness practices.

MARY BRIDGE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL Western Washington’s only Level II Pediatric Trauma Center broke ground on a new standalone children’s hospital in Tacoma this spring. The new facility is the realization of a 100-year goal of the Tacoma Orthopedic Association, now known as Mary Bridge Brigade.

SEATTLE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL As of June 1, the doors of the new Forest B building has welcomed new patients at Seattle Children’s. The 310,000-square-foot building expands the hospital’s clinical space and meets the growing regional demand for a variety of care.

The new Encompass Snoqualmie pediatric facility features an interior that’s functional and playful to make children feel at ease.

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Luke Hollister/Western Washington University

what i’m working on

Jared Hardesty is building on research from his book Mutiny on the Rising Sun.

Slavery’s Hidden History in Colonial New England A Western Washington University professor talks his recent research written by Dameon Paesanti

CONCEPTS LIKE GLOBALIZATION, global citizenship and multinational profiteering are often thought to be products of the Digital Age. After all, the sheer ubiquity of the internet has internationalized everything about how we shop, communicate and understand politics and conflicts. But Jared Hardesty knows better.

As professor of colonial and revolutionary history at Western Washington University, he’s built a career pushing against the popular notion that early American slavery was confined to Southern plantations and that as American colonists were place-bound farmers squirming under the thumb of monarchy. His recent research bears that out.

What are you working on?

It builds on research from my most recent book, Mutiny on the Rising Sun. The Rising Sun was an eighteenth-century ship crewed by New Englanders who smuggled enslaved people and cacao between Barbados, a British colony, and Suriname, a Dutch colony.

As I dug into the records surrounding a 1743 mutiny on the vessel, I kept finding Bostonians were connected to the mutiny—and by extension, slavery.

They were involved in the slave economy at every level—from trade to trafficking to, most fascinating for me now, plantation ownership.

So now I’m trying to wrap my mind around who these Bostonians were, how they got involved in all this, what that involvement looked like and, ultimately, what that means for the history of colonial New England and America as a whole.

Does this have the potential to reshape our ideas about how these colonists lived?

Yes. By better understanding the role of New England in the wider world of slavery, we can better understand how early America’s economy was organized to maximize the profitability of slavery in a market well beyond New England’s shores.

What do people typically misunderstand about slavery in early America?

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That slavery was mainly concentrated in the Southern colonies. No one thinks slavery was important to New England. It absolutely was, it was just offshored. Some wealthy New Englanders owned plantations in other parts of the western hemisphere where massive numbers of slaves grew and processed things like sugar and cacao under brutal conditions.

Those absentee landowners were actively managing these plantations and thereby actively managing and overseeing their slaves.

How did those foreign plantations affect the domestic economy?

I discovered these plantations were paid for their slave-made goods in silver currency. That surprised me because I expected an exchange of goods in kind or a bill of exchange that could be redeemed later. That silver flushed through the local economy and made its way into other investments, helping us better understand why New England was the region that was home to some of America’s first financial institutions and factories.

So where do you go from here?

The currency angle is pretty technical, but I’m intrigued by this phenomenon of absentee plantation ownership and I’m hoping to turn it into a book manuscript.

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Photos: courtesy of Melanie Budlong

my workspace

Nurtured and Natured Melanie Budlong embraces the outdoors in her pursuit of wellness written by Joni Kabana

From her earliest days, Melanie Budlong recalls sitting around the dinner table with her family discussing nutrition, the impact of physical activity on mind and body health and how wellness is more of a feeling than simply a set of numbers. Having an identical twin sister instilled in her a dedication to ensure her sister’s needs were met at all times, thus paving the way from childhood an innate devotion to caretaking. It’s not surprising to anyone who knows her that she became a licensed acupuncturist and practitioner of East Asian medicine.

Wellness comes when we are able to listen to our bodies and tend to its needs, Budlong said. “Wellness is not linear, it has its ups and downs, but with care and intention you will find that healing can continue on an upward trajectory toward your health goals.”

She believes that by quieting our minds while spending time in nature, our natural innate accessibility for wellness kicks in. Unplugging and experiencing the natural light of the sun and the moon is beneficial in many ways, including our sleep cycles.

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my workspace

LEARN MORE

Budlong is guided by ecopsychology and uses that in her approach to health and well-being. “The closer we can be to the earth, the more connected we can be to ourselves and our inner workings,” she tells her patients.

Budlong recommends Between Heaven and Earth: A Guide to Chinese Medicine

by Efrem Korngold and Harriet Beinfield and The Web That Has No Weaver by Ted Kaptchuk for further information.

Chinese medicine is a powerful modality for ecopsychology. She also practices intentional movement as a stress eliminator. Her method is to slip her shoes off, feel her bare feet on the outside ground and visualize roots extending into the earth, stabilizing her spirit and mind.

Budlong also deploys acupuncture and herbal remedies to assist patients with healing and establish a pattern of general well-being. “Laughter and joy are also crucial to life,” she said.

“They are your heart’s purest and most undeniable medicine, so seek them always.”

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ON TREND These 7 culinary industry shifts are shaping the future of food written by Ryn Pfeuffer

THE PANDEMIC has forever changed how people eat and buy food. So instead of chasing the next big thing, many chefs are getting back to basics, rethinking their why, and supporting the local community—from staff and customers to suppliers.

From eating what’s in season to helping people who are food insecure, here are seven trends that are shaping the future of the food and beverage industry right now.

Tio Baby chef Will Gordon sheds fine cuisine to give people exactly what they want. (photo: Jon Green)

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Eat What’s in Season Seasonal eating isn’t exactly a new trend—humans have been eating seasonally since the dawn of time.

Freshly harvested food is tastier, packs more nutrients, and is better for the environment. Chef Brian Clevenger of General Harvest Restaurant Group’s favorite time of year to eat is fall. The transition from late summer to early fall makes for perfect cooking—using the best of both worlds. “You have the tail end of summer, which still brings tomatoes, melons, peaches and corn … but are moving into fall and seeing wild edibles, a little more hearty greens, artichokes, cauliflower and wild mushrooms,” said Clevenger. In his restaurants (Autumn, East Anchor Seafood, G.H. Pasta Co., Haymaker Eastlake, Haymaker West Seattle, Raccolto, and Vendemmia), Clevenger takes these overlapping seasons and designs a menu that still focuses on a direct approach to seasonal products with as few ingredients as possible.

“Every year, we discuss the importance of showcasing this specific thirty days because, before long, we will be into braised meats, winter squash and hearty greens for the next four to five months.”

BELOW Chef Brian Clevenger focuses on seasonal ingredients in his menus. (photo: Linster Creative)

Mobile app Too Good to Go repurposes food to help eliminate waste. (photo: Too Good to Go)

Make Nutritious Food More Accessible The pandemic exposed the challenges of food and nutrition insecurity in this country. According to a survey conducted via social media by NYU School of Global Public Health researchers, nearly 15 percent of U.S. households—and almost 18 percent of households with children—reported food insecurity early in the COVID-19 pandemic. In June 2022, the U.S. Department of Agriculture announced details of a framework to ensure that every American family

has access to affordable, nutritious foods. In the meantime, mobile apps like Too Good To Go (www.toogoodtogo.com) are popping up to reduce food waste and repurpose surplus food for those who need it. Washingtonians can reserve a Too Good To Go Surprise Bag containing fresh, prepared and perishable food. It could include a few slices of pizza, a sushi roll, a cup of soup or some dumplings. More than 200 Seattlearea businesses are on the site.

Mobile apps like Too Good To Go are popping up to reduce food waste and repurpose surplus food for those who need it. Washingtonians can reserve a Too Good To Go Surprise Bag containing fresh, prepared and perishable food. More than 200 Seattle-area businesses are on the site.

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Thoughtful Food Consumption Many people wonder how they can make a difference as an individual and how they can actually have an impact.

Chef Dan Mallahan of Driftwood (formerly of Rider) said it’s simpler than it seems. “Thoughtful food consumption is a real way to make a change,” said Mallahan. “Support local family-run farms, ranchers, fishmongers, foragers, dairies, native and artisanal purveyors in your region.”

In opening his new Alki Beach restaurant, Mallahan worked closely with tribal members of the Quinault

and Makah tribes to source some of the best fish from Neah Bay, the Quinault River and nearby environs.

Fun fact: The name Makah means “people generous with food.” Mallahan is also excited about two local farm collaborations—Whistling Train Farm and Little Big Farm, which are growing items just for the restaurant.

“Shopping local, eating what’s in season, supporting small business, these are not simple hashtags,” he said. “By sourcing within our communities and not relying on global commodity products, we truly can make a difference.”

ABOVE Dan and Jacqueline Mallahan, the husband-and-wife team behind Driftwood. (photo: Lisa Monet Photography) AT RIGHT Driftwood worked with local tribes to source fresh, local fish. (photo: Dan Mallahan)

Personalization of Menus

Nachos and other high-quality comfort foods shine at chef Will Gordon’s Tio Baby’s. (photo: Jon Green)

Over the past couple of years, chef Will Gordon, formerly of Westward and How to Cook a Wolf, has noticed an increased personalization of menus and the removal of barriers for people to make their food.

“Whether it’s through pop-ups or a new generation of chefs opening bars and restaurants that feel like they’re making the kind of food they want to make, whether it’s to represent a culture or the food they like to eat,” said Gordon. So he traded in his fine dining history to open his dream space—one serving really great bar food in a fun environment. “In my case, it’s been called stoner or drunk food, but I like to think of it as dive bar food.” At Tio Baby’s, wings and nachos, two of Gordon’s most-loved foods, are the menu’s mainstay.

Gordon thinks Covid has had a lot to do with this evolution, as restaurant owners have had to adapt, whether taking over the kitchen at bars or setting up shop at breweries for the day. For people who don’t have a lot of seed money to open a brick-and-mortar business, this can be a helpful way to get started.

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When you’re a cook, he said, you want to feed people. “It’s exciting to see people’s vision of what food is going forward instead of this one thing we were all working toward.

And to see it at lower, more accessible price points that people can get more often.” But, for Gordon, the general trend of cooks making the food they want and figuring out ways to get it into people’s hands is the thing he’s most excited about right now.

Chef Will Gordon of Tio Baby’s raises the bar on the dive bar menu. (photo: Tio Baby’s)

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Nurture Your Team It’s no secret that restaurants are facing a massive worker shortage.

According to the National Restaurant Association, the industry is still down 750,000 jobs—roughly 6.1 percent of its workforce—from pre-pandemic levels as of May 2022. The restaurants that survive will realize that the only way forward is to put their employees’ welfare first.

Chef Eric Donnelly sees a new guard of cooks who need mentorship and teaching. “We need to reinvest in the restaurant industry,” he said. The culinary world has been kind to Donnelly, but it took him a long time, hard work, and a mentor who showed him how to thrive in hospitality. “There are two ways you can go in the restaurant industry, and that’s kind of off the rails, which we’ve seen, and then grow within the restaurant, which is great.”

So, at Donnelly’s restaurants, FlintCreek, RockCreek, and Bar Sur Mer, he’s been taking a backto-basics approach, focusing on classic techniques, emulsifications and big flavors. “We’re not focusing on a bunch of highly stylized food—just focusing on things that are simple to execute and highly flavorful,” he said. One of those dishes at Bar Sur Mer is a fresh take on clams with chorizo broth.

Donnelly makes a compound butter, emulsifies it with clam juice, and uses chorizo spice, sherry, lime juice and lime leaf oil. There’s no actual meat in it.

“It’s just using a classic technique, emulsifying butter and protein and making it fragrant and beautiful on the plate.”

Now that Donnelly has three restaurants and a fourth in the works, he wants to continue making the same quality food. So, as a chef, he asks, how can we do that by using people who can cook but aren’t necessarily chef quality yet? “We teach them and help them grow.”

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More Plant-Based Foods During the pandemic’s peak, many consumers experienced difficulty finding certain foods as many items were out of stock. Supply chain issues and consumers’ desire for better health pushed many to experiment with plant-based diets and nonmeat alternatives. We’ve seen Oatly, Beyond Meat, and Impossible Foods partner with restaurants and major chains. Even Lunchbox Lab, known for its fat meaty stacks, is serving a Faux Real with a Beyond Burger. Fast food restaurants are also getting in on the action, adopting plant-based food options. Cue the Impossible Whopper. According to Bloomberg Intelligence, it’s estimated that the global plant-based market will grow from $30 billion in 2021 to $160 billion by 2030, making up 7.7 percent of global protein market by 2030.

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According to Bloomberg Intelligence, it’s estimated that the global plant-based market will grow from $30 billion in 2021 to $160 billion by 2030, making up 7.7 percent of global protein market by 2030.

There’s a New Crop of Condiments Sure, ketchup and mustard will always be staples. But chefs are thinking beyond these kitchen mainstays. At Eight Row, executive chef and owner David Nichols gives dishes a boost with the restaurant’s house-made chamoy sauces. Chamoy is a Mexican condiment made from pickled fruit and flavored with salt, sugar, chili powder and citrus juice. The restaurant has always focused on orchardinspired ingredients—Nichols uses produce straight from his family farm in Central Washington. In June, his team picked more than 50 pounds of cherries and have been making cherry chamoy that’s used on their steak tartare, in cocktails and in housemade shrubs. “These sauces go so well with a lot of dishes—they’re the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, acidic and salty,” said Nichols. Next up is Nichols’ series of peach chamoys. He believes this is a great way of preserving fruit and using it in different formats throughout the year, even in the dead of winter when it’s hard to find those great flavors.

ABOVE House-made chamoy sauce from Eight Row. BELOW Eight Row’s beef tartare with pickled cherry chamoy, cured egg yolk, threeyear cheddar and pickled green elderberries on focaccia. (photos: Eight Row)

Plant-based burgers and other plant-based foods are part of a growing trend to help reduce the environmental effects of meat. (photo: Impossible)

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WASHINGTON FORESTS

REACH CRITICAL JUNCTION

Pulp and lumber mills, log yards and docks line the Columbia River at Longview, one of Washington’s largest timber towns.

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MANAGING WASHINGTON’S PRIVATE FORESTLANDS FOR VALUES BEYOND TIMBER REVENUE written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil IN JANUARY 2020, a coalition of conservation groups filed a complaint in the King County Superior Court demanding that the Washington Department of Natural Resources manage state trust forestlands for values other than timber revenue. Citing the state’s constitution, which holds that “all the public lands granted to the state are held in trust for all the people,” the coalition argued that intensive clearcut logging degraded the state’s social and environmental wellbeing. The conservationists lost and appealed.

Last July, the state Supreme Court unanimously upheld DNR’s mandate to log the two million acres of forested state trust lands, which provide funding to schools and other public services. “DNR’s discretionary land management strategies are neither unconstitutional nor arbitrary and capricious,” the court said. The ruling illustrated the conflict and challenges behind repurposing Washington’s public and private forests for interests like carbon sequestration, recreation and healthy ecosystems.

A

look at the numbers and laws of forest ownership in Washington reveals why. The federal government owns the most trees in Washington, almost 10 million acres, or 43 percent of the total forestland. Much of this, including three National Parks and myriad other nature preserves, cannot be logged. The national forests in Washington, formerly cut with abandon, now enjoy a reprieve from the chainsaws.

The state owns 12 percent of Washington’s total 22 million forested acres. Some of this is protected, but the trust lands are not. Counties and municipalities own a mere 1.5 percent. Tribes own 8 percent of the total and manage their OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

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in Washington carries a burden to deliver investment returns, meaning it must be cut, constantly.

Washington’s Forest Practices Rules govern private forestry operations and require, for example, tree replanting and setbacks from streams. But, this is America. “Private forestlands are exactly that: private,” said Matt Cominsky, Washington manager at the American Forest Resource Council, a timber industry trade group. “Which means the landowner gets to manage the land, in accordance with state and federal laws, in a way that is most advantageous for them.”

F forests for timber, traditional foods, conservation and carbon sequestration.

That leaves one third of Washington’s forests, close to 8 million acres, in private hands. Private forest can be divided into two categories: industrial, which is managed exclusively for forest products; and non-industrial, which can include anything from small timberland owners to conservation groups and everyday property owners. With more than 4.6 million acres, or 21 percent, of Washington’s total forestland in its possession, the private industrial sector is the state’s second-largest forestland owner.

Some of Washington’s “working forests” belong to large, family-owned timber companies. The majority of this industrial forestland, however, lies in the portfolios of investment firms. As the timber juggernauts grew top-heavy in the 1980s, they began to sell forestland and assets to buyers seeking durable investments. Enter the TIMOs (Timber Investment Management Organizations) and REITs (Real Estate Investment Trusts, of which Weyerhaeuser is now one). In their hands, forests are traded on Wall Street and profits go to stockholders worldwide, to retirement funds, to private equity firms and so on. Most private industrial timberland 62 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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or decades conservationists in Washington State have battled to protect forests, with some success. Paula Swedeen has worked on forest conservation issues here for the past thirty years. She currently serves as policy director at Conservation Northwest, a Seattlebased nonprofit. While assigning resources to projects like safeguarding ecologically-significant lands from industrial ownership, or pursuing public funds to secure for-sale timberland, Swedeen remains realistic.

“It would likely be socially and economically impossible to remove a lot of land from harvest,” Swedeen said. “I’ve had timber executives tell me, ‘You can never pay us enough to manage the way you want us to manage, so you’re welcome to try to purchase the land when it comes up for sale.’”

In Washington’s forests, money does grow on trees. Conservation and other environmental groups like land trusts fully comprehend this law of natural resource economics. The Nisqually Land Trust, for example, meets “big timber” on its own terms.

“When we’re faced with a situation in which commercial forestry and salmon recovery seem incompatible, we look for market solutions,” said Jeanette Dorner, executive director of the Nisqually Land Trust. “We work with timber companies to identify sensitive lands, then we raise the money to purchase those lands at full market value. And then, essentially, we adapt forest management to prioritize fish returns rather than shareholder returns.

Funding, however, poses a major challenge to this type of land conservation. “Securing enough funding for site purchase is incredibly difficult,” said Daniel Wear, Community Forests Program manager at Sustainable Northwest, a conservation nonprofit. “It takes significant time to align purchaseready opportunities with annual or biennial funding cycles from the state or federal government. This

is why land purchases often use multiple sources, stemming from federal, state and private funders.”

Land trusts and other non-governmental organizations do not just let their lands grow. Logging represents a portion of these environmental groups’ forestry management plans. Taxes, road maintenance and restoration projects all cost money, some of which timber provides. This, in turn, creates local jobs, healthier forests and wood products.

Environmental and timber groups don’t always clash. “We tend to disagree more about the how, when, where, and how much timber is harvested, and not the ‘should we or should we not harvest trees’ argument,” Cominsky said. For instance, both sides hate to see forestland converted into nonforest uses. Over large areas, forest fragmentation precludes long-term forest management. Housing developments, strip malls, and parking lots will not become forested again.

“Increased recreation is a public benefit that can help prevent transition of private forest lands to non-forest uses,” Wear said. “Residents who experience the incredible forests that the State of Washington has to offer are more likely to join in

advocacy campaigns to increase funding available for land preservation and maintenance of working forestlands.”

Trailheads and other recreation sites in Washington’s forests have become exceedingly popular.

In 2020, the outdoor recreation industry contributed $10.3 billion and 113,933 jobs to Washington’s economy. Economists and scientists now correlate protected natural areas with socio-economic prosperity, and the opposite for areas of resource extraction.

But the state trust lands cannot be converted into new recreational land because recreation fees simply do not offer enough revenue to meet the costly requirements of the trust mandate. On private land the story is no different. Industrial forest will remain so until a more lucrative opportunity arises.

Hiking, mountain biking, hunting and fishing cannot compete with price per million board feet.

I

f you want change, someone else has to own it,” Swedeen said. “There are companies from Brazil, companies based on the East Coast, that own and manage forestland in Washington OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

ABOVE Regeneration harvest, or clearcutting, remains a prevalent, profitmaximizing forestry method in Washington, especially here in the Willapa Hills.

Conservationists work to encourage more ecologicallysound practices.

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Fresh logs pile up in a Washington timber yard. Unlike from public land, whole logs from privately owned land can be milled overseas, which costs local jobs.

State, and it’s for investors that have no attachment whatsoever to our land. You could still actively manage that land for timber, but own it and do it in a way that benefits local communities. The community forest movement is trying to do that.”

Owned and managed by local partners, community forests provide mutual social, economic and ecological benefits, all tied to a long-term vision. Maintenance and restoration work require labor, and careful, selective logging provides revenue. Recreation permits and tourism can bring in more dollars. This income stays in the community, and more trees stay in the ground than if it were industrial timberland.

The Nason Ridge Community Forest, which borders Lake Wenatchee State Park in Chelan County, required years of cooperative planning and multi-source funding before Weyerhaeuser

WASHINGTON FORESTRY FACTS

FOR FISCAL YEAR 2022

42,531,840 TOTAL LAND AREA IN WASHINGTON

(JULY 2021 TO JUNE 2022) Sources: apps.fs.usda.gov; census.gov; data.workingforests.org

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agreed to sell the 3,714-acre property to local ownership last April. Local interests and conservation groups had identified the land as a priority site to protect wildlife habitat and ecosystems, provide economic stability and offer year-round recreation. Under Washington’s lax land-use laws, the area could have been developed instead.

Chelan County now manages the Nason Ridge Community Forest. Washington State and the U.S. Forest Service both have community forest programs to facilitate projects like this. “The development of local forest ownership, such as community forestry, is an increasingly popular method in the Pacific Northwest to pursue diverse outcomes and a suite of public benefits,” Wear said.

Tribal buy-back of forestland in Washington represents another growing means of regaining land from industrial forestry. Tribes including the Muckleshoot, Snoqualmie and Makah have begun purchasing forests in their ancestral territories.

While some of these lands will provide long-term timber revenue, other swaths receive protection for traditional values and cultural foods and materials. Other tribes, such as the Colville, have entered their forests into the emerging market of carbon credits.

As companies like Microsoft and utilities like Puget Sound Energy seek to offset or draw down their carbon emissions, a voluntary market of carbon credits has sprouted. Essentially, businesses pay landowners not to cut their trees. The Colville Tribes have guaranteed to preserve almost half a million acres of forest for the next 100 years, allowing those trees to pull and store carbon from the atmosphere. Other forestland owners, including land trusts, community forests and smaller timber companies, have also begun selling carbon credits.

The State of Washington this year announced a 10,000-acre carbon sequestration project.

Big timber remains skeptical for many reasons, including economics. “Carbon sequestration in the form of legitimate carbon offset markets can

ACRES

22,063,697 ACRES OF FORESTLAND IN WASHINGTON

be an additional revenue source to help prevent the conversion to non-forestry uses,” Cominsky said. “But I have not seen carbon credit prices that can replace the revenue from forest management and harvesting timber yet.”

In recent talks with a timber executive, Paula Swedeen heard an encouraging, albeit hypothetical, scenario. With the climate crisis driving pressure on consumer-based companies to mitigate their emissions and image, a cash-heavy company could buy out a large timber company and repurpose the forest to carbon sequestration. “I never would have heard a timber executive say that five years ago,” she said.

M

oney talks, but laws act. If the citizens of Washington want to dedicate more of their forestland to values such as salmon recovery, carbon sequestration and outdoor recreation, they need the ears of their timber investment managers and local politicians. The state Supreme Court justices who ruled in favor of the DNR status quo last July were elected or were appointed by the governor. In a democracy, votes amount to change.

Elected officials can also create taxes, anathema to investment groups and large timber companies.

Ernie Niemi, an economist, knows this. He has spent the last forty-five years analyzing the importance of natural resources in Washington and Oregon. Niemi served on the Northern Spotted Owl Implementation Team for the Washington Board of Forestry, and he assisted the conservationists in their recent state Supreme Court case against DNR. “If you want to get industrial lands to behave differently, tax them or give them incentives, or apply regulations on them,” he said.

Niemi looks at the timberland issue from an economist’s perspective. “If the benefits exceed the costs, cut the damn tree down,” he said. “But let’s make sure we count all of the costs. The reality right now is the costs of cutting down any tree in this region probably exceed the benefits. What

28,970

JOBS

FOREST-BASED EMPLOYMENT IN WASHINGTON

that means is a two-by-four ought to be a hell of a lot more expensive than it is.”

In Niemi’s view, damage to ecosystems, biodiversity, timber communities and the climate do not figure in the price of wood products. “Put a tax on every million board feet that they cut,” he said.

“Give them an incentive to do something else with their investment in these timberlands.” Niemi suggests that when landowners log a forest they pay a tax, and that money then rewards landowners who agree to leave their trees standing instead. “Guess which organization, which community has steadfastly refused to participate in developing such a climate-carbon reward system for their forests?”

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ommunity forests and land trusts can replace REITs and TIMOs in Washington’s forests. Millions of acres of trees can store climate-saving amounts of carbon while providing wildlife habitat, hiking trails, old-growth reserve and scenic beauty. It’s easy to imagine the repurposing of Washington forestlands when one’s income does not derive directly or indirectly from the timber industry.

But it’s also easy to ignore the consequences of such decisions. “If people in cities want forests out in rural areas to be managed differently, they have to understand what the impacts of that change will be for people who live in and near the forests,” Swedeen said. “The solutions need to take into account rural economic development and social wellbeing.”

If, for conservationists, the recent state Supreme Court ruling missed the mark, at least Washington’s progression to multiple-values-based forest management has the potential to benefit all people. Stakeholders from all corners of the state and all sides of the table must convene. “It’s going to take conversation and understanding,” Swedeen said. “The transition needs to be holistic, one that doesn’t increase polarization.” Ultimately, it’s up to all of the Evergreen State to decide which values shall rule the forests.

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The Magical Arts of Olympia written and photographed by Bill Purcell CONSIDERING OLYMPIA is the capital of Washington, people are often surprised at how small the city of Olympia is. However, despite its size, Olympia has a large and robust community of performance artists. On any given day throughout the city, it is easy to find yourself entertained and awed by the talents of these artists— from aerialists performing high in the air at a local park (or bar!), an impromptu concert on a neighborhood porch, to a clown … well … clowning around in the streets. This encouraging and inclusive artistic community is truly unique and at the heart of what gives Olympia much of its character.

MORE ONLINE

See additional photos online at www.1889mag.com/olympiaarts

Naomi demonstrates her balancing skill by bottle walking at the Washington State Capitol in Olympia.

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Lili prepares at the Airbound Arts studio before performing at the monthly “Brotherhood Takes Fight” show at The Brotherhood Lounge in Olympia.

AT LEFT Luz and Francis perform at a neighborhood yard party.

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ABOVE, TOP Kieran performs at an outdoor show in Olympia.

ABOVE, BOTTOM Naomi watches aerial performances in the park. Sparrow Studios is one of two aerialist studios in Olympia.

AT RIGHT One of Marlo’s many clown personas.

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Em Ro at Airbound Arts before her performance at the monthly “Brotherhood Takes Fight” show at The Brotherhood Lounge in Olympia.

AT LEFT, TOP Marlo (center), Luz (right) and Pal (left) hang out prior to an outdoor show in Olympia.

AT LEFT, BOTTOM Lindsay performs at the monthly Brotherhood Lounge aerial show.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 76 ADVENTURE 78 LODGING 82 TRIP PLANNER 84

pg. 78 Methow Valley in northern Washington is a four-season outdoor adventure.

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism

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travel spotlight

Oceanside Charm

Oysterville is a historic marker in Washington’s early seafood industry written by Joni Kabana | photography by Justin Bailie A HISTORY BUFF’S mecca, Oysterville is well worth the drive up Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula to take a step back in time. Located along Willapa Bay approximately 15 miles from Long Beach, this unincorporated community was once the site of shellfish cultivation and harvesting by indigenous cultures before becoming established as Oysterville in 1854.

From its inception, Oysterville has been a hub of oyster farming and nautical shenanigans. Each historical home has a story behind it and some are quite sensational. When you arrive, pick up a detailed map in the heritage church to discover the many once long-held secrets of this town. Most of the homes are surrounded by lush gardens that were established centuries ago, giving the visitor the feeling like they have stepped into a storybook fantasy.

Oysterville is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and currently has a population of around twenty residents.

It was the seat of Pacific County until the seat was relocated to South Bend, Washington. Word has it, all town records and books were stolen at this time. Once a thriving and much larger town, many of its homes were lost to the sea’s elements.

Just outside town is the Oysterville Cemetery where a plethora of notable founding sea families are laid to rest. A leisure stroll through the two acre site will reveal countless lives lost in the treacherous mouth of the Columbia River and stories about the unrelenting devotion these families had to sea life.

Just to the right of the entrance is the grave of Chief Nahcati, the last Native American chieftain on the peninsula.

Don’t leave without tasting some fruits of the sea. Oysterville Sea Farms boasts having the “cleanest estuary in the United States” where you can feast on not only oysters but clam chowder and other sea delights while taking in a panoramic view of Willapa Bay from their massive deck. For more information see www.willapawild.com. In addition, there are many other smaller family-owned seafare shops all around the area that are well worth exploring their catch of the day while recalling the days of yore.

Leave the masses behind and embrace solitude and great chowder in Oysterville.

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National Historic Landmark 10 Minutes North of Poulsbo, WA

Sunshine for all Seasons!

10 Minutes from Kingston Ferry

Take a ste back in time in one of Washin ton's Oldest Preserved Towns . bakerprovisions.com 360 297-9500 . generalstore.com (360) 297-7637 -

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Bike Hike Glide Breathe - Please Recreate Responsibly 1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com

Waikiki Beach, Ilwaco, WA

Visitlbp.com/stormseason

adventure

Three Bikes, Three Adventures Because Washington is a place where we can indulge its many trails, and paved and gravel roads written by Jen Sotolongo

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Visit Spokane

Mount Spokane, an hour outside of Spokane, is a great venue for mountain bikes, among its other charms.

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Visit Spokane

adventure

Beacon Hill Mountain Bike Park, just west of Spokane, is a mecca for trails and bikes.

CYCLISTS WHO just can’t choose between dirt and road have abundant options to bring their road, mountain, and gravel bikes in all corners of the state. Between quiet country roads, world class mountain biking routes, and gravel roads that climb to the tops of peaks for incredible views, it’s time to load that bike rack and plan an exploration on two wheels.

Spokane Throw a dart in just about any direction from Spokane and you’ll likely land on a trail. Eastern Washington and the Spokane Valley have a great mix of mountain bike trails, gravel rides and scenic road riding options as far or as close from the city as you want to drive.

A stone’s throw from the Idaho border, biking across the state line makes for a fun adventure. Advanced road cyclists can start in Priest River, Idaho, and bike the 82 miles to Mount Spokane, gaining more than 5,000 feet of elevation along the way. Or, simply explore Mount Spokane. At 13,919 acres, it is one of Washington’s largest state parks just less than an hour from downtown Spokane. There are a wide range of mountain bike trails to accommodate all levels of riders.

Right in town, Beacon Hill Mountain Bike Park contains the largest system of trails in the city that includes a wide variety

from cross country trails to jump tracks. Beginners can meander around the mostly flat gravel paths in the 700-acre Palisades Park, just west of town.

Gravel lovers should visit the Saltese Uplands Conservation Area for a chance to see wildlife and get in some good climbing on the 10-mile Summit Loop-Uplands Loop Fire Road. Antoine Peak is the county’s newest conservation area, consisting of old road beds that lead to gorgeous views of the Spokane Valley.

Rest your legs at Hotel Indigo, a restored hotel near Brick West Brewing, which has a patio where you can enjoy a post ride brew. Or, stay at The Ruby River Hotel, located right on the Centennial Trail. The 40-mile trail system passes through Ponderosa pine forests, basalt canyons, and downtown Spokane, finishing at the Idaho border, where you can connect with the North Idaho Centennial Trail and ride all the way to Coeur d’Alene. In need of a bike rental? Spoke n’ Sport can get you set up.

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adventure

The Methow Valley offers spectacular scenic rides, whether on trails or roads.

Although Mount Rainier may be a commanding presence in the Cascade Range, the many biking options tend to fly under the radar.

Although Mount Rainier may be a commanding presence in the Cascade Range, the many biking options tend to fly under the radar.

Roadies can tackle the Chinook Scenic Byway over Chinook Pass for a scenic ride with several options to stop and turn around or stay. The out-and-back ride to Crystal Mountain totals 35 miles, or extend the trip up to Paradise Point at Mount Rainier and stay at Alta Crystal Resort.

After the ride, stop at the Greenwater Collective, a ski and bike shop with a beer garden that serves a selection of snacks, charcuterie, beer and wine and ice cream. Just across the street, Wapiti Outdoors is known for its famous milkshakes and serves coffee to fuel your ride. If you fancy a burger, Naches Tavern has you covered.

Mountain bikers and gravel enthusiasts can choose from hundreds of miles of dirt roads and trails located around Mount Rainier. Packwood Lake offers 10 miles of mostly flat riding for beginners. After, pop into Packwood Brewing Co. for craft beer and ciders along with delicious street tacos. Set up base in town at the newly renovated Historic Hotel Packwood, where you rest on the covered porch and keep an eye out for the local elk herd.

Crystal Mountain offers a 14-mile loop of both single- and doubletrack riding with plenty of options at the resort to imbibe post ride. Stay at one of the three Crystal Mountain Hotel properties and ride straight to the trails.

Near Ashford, beginners and intermediate riders can take a cruise down Westside Road, located just a few miles inside the Nisqually entrance to the National Park. The gravel road is closed to motor vehicles three miles in, allowing for 9 miles of car-free bliss. For those in search of singletrack, head to Silver Creek and Osborne Mountain. After a day on the trails, stop by Rainier Basecamp Bar & Grill for beer and pizza. Ashford has an array of lodging options, ranging from the vintage trailer at the Ashford Lodge to cabins, a treehouse, yurts and inns.

Methow Valley Well known as an adventure hub, the Methow Valley has hundreds of miles of singletrack trails and paved and gravel roads with idyllic riding in the heart of the North Cascades.

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Stephen Matera/TandemStock.com

Mount Rainier

Road cyclists can take advantage of a handful of car-free riding days on Highway 20 toward Washington Pass before the road opens back up to cars after the winter closure. Beginner riders can check out the Chewuch Loop, an easy 14-mile loop gravel/pavement mix that overlooks the river by the same name.

Those looking to go longer can extend the trip 50 miles by adding on Andrew’s Creek, along Road 151.

When it comes to singletrack, the Methow Valley has some of the best mountain biking in the state. Beginners can take the gradual climb to Cutthroat Pass to Cutthroat Lake, while more advanced riders can continue the climb to Cutthroat Pass to

adventure

take in the views. In the spring, the moderate 14.5-mile Buck Mountain loop is filled with wildflowers. Perhaps the most iconic spot to ride in the Methow Valley is Sun Mountain. With 66 miles of trails in the network, there is something for everyone.

Gravel riders have hundreds of miles of forest roads on which to play. Bear Creek Road and Pearrygin Loop is a great 12-mile ride for beginners. For a mix of paved and gravel, the Winthrop Valley Loop is a 25-mile challenging ride with mountain views throughout. Vert lovers will enjoy tackling Hart’s Pass Road to Slate Peak, which climbs 5,550 feet in 43 miles, well worth the effort for the view at the top.

Methow Cycle & Sport in Winthrop rents gravel and e-bikes and can help with route planning. The shop also offers mountain bike skills and bikepacking clinics in the spring and early summer.

Visitors can stay at the bike-friendly Chewuch Inn, located just a mile from Winthrop and offering guest rooms and cabins.

Pre-ride, pop into Rocking Horse Bakery for some irresistible pastries or a breakfast sandwich and coffee. After, visit the Old Schoolhouse Brewery or Methow Valley Ciderhouse to enjoy a brew and hang with locals.

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Photos: Alderbrook Resort

lodging

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Find a cool dining experience at Hook & Fork on the Hood Canal just outside of Alderbrook Resort. Alderbrook Resort is set within the lush boundaries of the Olympic Peninsula and with many trails to hike. The rooms at Alderbrook are understated comfort and style.

Lodging

Alderbrook Resort & Spa written by Cara Strickland ALDERBROOK IS A fairly short drive from the Seattle or Portland area but its secluded spot, set on the Hood Canal, makes you feel like you’re a world away from the city. The resort has existed since 1930 (originally, you had to arrive by canoe). It’s also easy to see why it’s a destination for families through multiple generations. The property vibe is relaxed and comfortable, with a distinct Northwest flavor—recent renovations make it even easier to settle in for some relaxation or family fun.

10 E. ALDERBROOK DRIVE UNION www.alderbrookresort.com

Alderbrook Resort is a distinctly Northwest getaway.

ACCOMMODATIONS The lodge has a selection of freshly renovated traditional hotel rooms ranging from the right settings for a romantic getaway, a girl’s trip or a family vacation (ask about pet-friendly accommodations to suit the whole family). You may want to start by sinking into a soaking tub and ordering room service.

If a cottage is more your style, choose from one of fifteen, ranging from one and two bedrooms (with some pet-friendly cottages). Between the bedrooms and pull-out couch, you can fit a crew, and the kitchenette makes staying in easy. Most cottages have showers, rather than bathtubs, because of their small footprint.

DINING If you don’t want to leave the resort, never fear, you’ll be well fed. Choose the newly refreshed Restaurant at Alderbrook for brunch, mid-afternoon snack or dinner daily (along with room service, take out and lounge service). You’ll find an innovative menu, with lots of favorites, and an abundance of extremely local seafood including oysters served seemingly every way possible.

Seasonally, enjoy a casual menu on the patio (wear your bathing suit if you want), without leaving the waterfront.

Enjoy grab-and-go options for breakfast or lunch, get your coffee fix or a stronger drink at The Drinkery, located in the lobby.

If you’re up for an adventure, travel just 2 miles down the road to Hook & Fork, Alderbrook’s off-site dining experience with a dedicated chef and ever-rotating menu.

AMENITIES It’s hard to overstate how much there is to do on this property. You might start with the pool and hot tub in a space made almost entirely of windows. You almost feel like you’re swimming in the canal, but you’re much warmer. Even so, you might want to dip your toes into the chilly water, or search for shells at low tide. Check out the playground for little ones, or enjoy a nature hike on the trail of your choice. If you’re hoping for a golf game, you’ll want to check out the course, or slip over to the spa for a massage with lots of little touches to make you feel pampered. Get in a workout in the fitness center, then order a s’mores kit and enjoy one of the fire pits, or take in the sunset reclined in an Adirondack chair. If you’re bored here, it’s not for lack of options.

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Your Guide to the best Lodging, Dining, Shopping and Activities near the Nisqually entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park Mt. Rainier Visitor Association 2022

trip planner

Bavaria in the Fall

Day

written by Ryn Pfeuffer

Each year at this time, the ash, maple, and aspen trees catch fire with vibrant hues. Mid-October is the best time to see hundreds of different trees, each with different hues in Leavenworth at their peak. For the best views, take a quick drive along Icicle Road or head to Waterfront Park for scenic panoramas and plenty of photo ops.

Check into the Icicle Village Resort, a few minutes drive outside town. It’s a comfortable respite from the crowds, plus you’ll have a hot tub, drop-dead gorgeous views of the Cascades and a complimentary breakfast. When it’s time to hit the slopes, the resort provides a free shuttle service to the nearby Stevens Pass Ski Area. The resort’s JJ Hills Fresh Grill restaurant also serves some mighty fine Northwest fare. Think traditional Swiss fondue, flank steak marinated in fresh herbs and smothered chicken schnitzel.

IF YOU WANT a taste of German culture in the United States, head to this faux-Bavarian town on the eastern slopes of the Cascades. Leavenworth is famous for many things—whitewater rafting, Oktoberfest and its healthy appreciation for the holiday season. Oh, and it’s only thirty minutes from Lake Wenatchee.

October, though, is when its beautiful red, orange and yellow foliage shines, and people come from all over the state to admire the flashy colors. It’s just over a two-hour drive from Seattle; three from Spokane. Weather holds steady in the 60s, so it’s the perfect time to get out and about and explore all this charming enclave has to offer.

Here’s how to make the most of it.

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FINDING FALL COLORS • STARGAZING

ABOVE Just over a two-hour drive from Seattle, Leavenworth is a stunning fall retreat in the Cascades with Bavarian flair.

Photo: Kirk Fisher/stock.adobe.com

A German-like retreat in the Cascades

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Icicle Village Resort

Posthotel

trip planner

trip planner

Leavenworth is famous for many things— whitewater rafting, Oktoberfest and its healthy appreciation for the holiday season. October, though, is when its beautiful red, orange and yellow foliage shines, and people come from all over the state to admire the flashy colors.

Icicle TV

Kirk Fisher/stock.adobe.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Leavenworth is as close as we get to Bavaria without a plane ticket. The stars gleam over Lake Wenatchee. Famous fondue at JJ Hills Fresh Grill.

Posthotel is a wonderful redoubt from the town hubbub.

If you’re traveling with a rig, there’s always the Thousand Trails Leavenworth, located 18 miles north of town. Surrounded by 300 acres of towering trees, this well-maintained RV park sits smack dab amid fall grandeur. Or, rent one of the cozy cabins or cottages in the tiny house village. It’s a great launching spot for winter sledding, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling.

If you want to get fancy, book a room at the adults-only Posthotel. From the minute you slip on your robe and slippers (it is socially acceptable to wear both throughout the property), and indulge in the steam room, sauna, and cold plunge, the worries of the world melt away. With fireplaces, oversized soaking tubs, and balconies facing the creek, this is undoubtedly one of the most romantic stays in Washington. Posthotel truly feels like a luxe European getaway.

Once you’ve checked in, head over to Icicle Brewing. Located on Front Street, the hub of Leavenworth, this buzzy spot attracts locals and tourists. People pack outdoor picnic tables, sipping seasonal Festbiers and Alpenhaze Hazy IPAs while debating favorites over chili nachos and meat and cheese plates. Visitors also find dozens of gift shops, bakeries, wineries and restaurants within a few blocks. There’s enough to eat, see, and explore to fill a half-day easily.

If it’s a clear night, consider taking a drive to Lake Wenatchee State Park to go stargazing.

The area has very low light pollution, so the aurora borealis, better known as the Northern Lights, are sometimes visible during the fall and winter seasons. Set up your camera in the park’s beach area, look to the northwest, and get ready for stunning images of the night skies.

(There’s a group of aurora borealis enthusiasts and aurora chasers on Facebook—Aurora

Borealis Washington State—who notify one another of impending current auroral activity.)

Day MORNING ESPRESSO • RAISE A STEIN Grab a chai latte or pour over coffee to go at J5 Coffee—its hip and breezy flagship espresso bar is right on 9th Street. J5 Coffee roasts its beans in house in small batches; the owner, Jesse Wilkinson, is often seen pulling espresso shots for customers. Beans, glassware, syrups, and other coffee merchandise are also available for purchase.

When adequately caffeinated for the day, head to Oktoberfest for German beers, live music, and Bavarian dance groups at Leavenworth Oktoberfest. The three-weekend event (September 30-October 1, October 7-8, and October 14-15) is ranked as one of the top Oktoberfest celebrations in the country. The event kicks off with the ceremonial tapping of the kegs. Expect to see Hofbrau, Alpine, Ayinger, Paulaner, Weihenstephan and Warsteiner on tap at the beer halls at Front Street Park and Leavenworth Festhalle.

If you’re a foodie, you’ll love this event. There are many options, from traditional bratwursts to BBQ ribs to soak up steins of tasty beer.

If you didn’t get your fill of beer and brats during the day, stop by the always lively München Haus for a pint, warm Bavarian pretzel, or one of nearly a dozen kinds of sausage.

(Vegan and veggie options are on the menu, too.) Don’t skip the tangy apple cider sauerkraut. Like most places in Leavenworth, the décor is, yes, you guessed it, Bavarian in style.

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EAT Icicle Brewing www.iciclebrewing.com J5 Coffee www.j5coffee.com München Haus www.munchenhaus.com

STAY Icicle Village Resort www.iciclevillage.com Posthotel www.posthotel leavenworth.com Thousand Trails RV Campground www.thousandtrails.com/ washington/leavenworthrv-campground

Icicle TV

LEAVENWORTH, WASHINGTON

trip planner

PLAY Bavarian Walking Tour www.bavarianwalking tours.com

Waterfront Park Trail www.leavenworth.org/trail/ waterfront-park-2

Icicle TV

Spider Meadow Trail www.wta.org/go-hiking/ hikes/spider-meadows

Icicle Brewing Company

Leavenworth Oktoberfest www.leavenworth.org/ oktoberfest

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Waterfront Park Trail is one of many of Leavenworth’s outdoor recreation assets. Oktoberfest in Leavenworth is one of the top such celebrations in this country. Icicle Brewing is the gem of the town’s craft beers.

Day TAKE A HIKE • HISTORY TOUR Start the day with a casual run, bike or stroll on one of Leavenworth’s best-kept secrets—Waterfront Park Trail. Located behind the Posthotel, the trail winds three easy miles roundtrip along the Wenatchee River through small beach inlets and riverbank forests. In the fall, watch for salmon battling their way upstream to spawn. The park offers front-row seats for this phenomenon that are accessible to baby strollers. During snow season—Leavenworth averages 96 inches of snow per year— the flat trails are well-suited for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.

If you’re looking for something more substantial, Spider Meadow is one of the most spectacular alpine high meadow hikes in the 88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Pacific Northwest. Getting to the Phelps Creek Trail is a bit tricky and requires three miles on a rough forest road. But, after a 5.5-mile ascent to Spider Meadow (and several stream crossings), hikers are rewarded with meadow views, mountain peaks and splashes of fall colors. (Multiday hikers often use Spider Meadow as the first stop on backpacking trips into the areas to the east of Glacier Peak.) Dogs are welcome but must be on leash.

You could also take a Bavarian Walking Tour.

This easy, one-hour tour educates visitors about the proud heritage of the Yakama, Chinook, and Wenatchi tribes, the Great Northern Railroad, its history as a lumber town and how it became the Pacific Northwest’s slice of Bavaria.

VisitTri-Cities.com

BE MORE COOL Seeking an immersive vineyard experience blended with farm-to-table dining and outdoor recreation?

Yeah, we’ve got that.

We’ve got more cool.

northwest destination

Targhee skiers carve turns under a dramatic Tetons backdrop.

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northwest destination

Grand Targhee Resort and the Teton Valley Finding big powder and steaks in the cross-border “Wydaho” written and photographed by Aaron Theisen WESTERN WYOMING’S Jackson Hole Resort may receive all the attention for its high peaks and haute couture, but local skiers know about the other Tetons. Just over the border in Idaho, the Teton Valley has retained its small ski-town charm while offering big-mountain skiing and amenities.

The Teton Valley region of far east Idaho and far western Wyoming encompasses the west side of the Teton Range and includes the Tetons, the Snake River Range to the south and the Big Hole Range to the west. Teton Pass separates the valley from Jackson Hole, an hour east, just out of range of celebrity-sightings at Jackson. Nonetheless, fly shops and gourmet bakeries dot the downtown streets of the Teton Valley communities—Victor, Driggs, Tetonia, Alta—in this wedge of valley affectionately known as “Wydaho.”

The centerpiece of Teton Valley skiing is Grand Targhee— averaging more than 500 inches of snow annually, “The Ghee” consistently ranks among the snowiest ski resorts in the country.

Five chairlifts access 2,600 acres of terrain that ranges from kid-friendly flats in the aspen groves of Shoshone to steep cliff shots off Sacajawea. And the new Peaked lift, which opens this winter, will serve a steeply angled fin of gladed terrain that was previously only accessible by snowcat.

Located just inside Wyoming but only accessible from Idaho, Grand Targhee exemplifies a region where the steaks are just as big as the skiing.

The centerpiece of Teton Valley skiing is Grand Targhee—averaging more than 500 inches of snow annually, “The Ghee” consistently ranks among the snowiest ski resorts in the country.

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northwest destination

Grand Targhee’s compact base village bustles with traffic from Dreamcatcher lift.

Ride Dreamcatcher lift from the base area to the summit, and you’ll find the views are big, too. Topping out at about 9,800 feet, the alpine summit block allows unimpeded 360-degree vistas. To the east soar the granite spires of Grand Teton National Park. To the west the sprawling farmland of Idaho’s Teton Valley.

It’s enough to take one’s breath away—especially if you’re traveling from sea level. The hot tub is a good place to acclimate and take it all in and soak ski-sore muscles, while sipping a cocktail ordered from the poolside phone.

On-mountain lodging at Grand Targhee Resort includes rooms for every budget. Guests at any of the lodges have access to the resort pool, which is conveniently located next to Dreamcatcher lift and the base area’s dining options.

You’ll find coffee and breakfast at Snorkels, sheet-pan-sized nachos and live music at The Trap Bar & Grill, and a gastropub menu at The Branding Iron.

To burn off Branding Iron calories, rent a fat bike or Nordic ski and explore the miles of groomed trails skirting the base area among aspen groves and snow-covered meadows. Grand Targhee Resort sits on Caribou-Targhee National Forest land, so these are open to the public.

With everything located within walking or skiing distance, it’s easy to stay put at Grand Targhee. But the small communities of the Teton Valley, with their brick- and wood-faced buildings and charming restaurants, warrant an off-mountain field trip.

The spice scale at Teton Thai, in downtown Driggs, is definitely not graded on the Gringo curve: four- and five-star dishes venture into hallucinatory territory. Fortunately, taps from several regional microbreweries help with the heat.

Eight miles south, in Victor, BBQ and music fans will find the legendary Knotty Pine Supper Club. For half a century, the tiny club has hosted outsize acts such as the Yonder Mountain String Band, with whom the audience could quite literally rub elbows in its original 165-capacity incarnation. A remodel in 2008 effectively doubled the capacity, but the sound, like the smoked-meat platters, is just as big.

The venue is a microcosm of the Teton Valley—growing rapidly, but still refreshingly rough around the edges.

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northwest destination

TETON VALLEY, IDAHO

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The rural Teton Valley near Victor, Idaho, basks in early evening light. Teton Valley Resort features cozy cabins within an easy drive of Grand Targhee. At Knotty Pine Supper Club, the portions are as big as the peaks. Live music draws a lively crowd to The Trap Bar & Grill at Grand Targhee. Miles of immaculately groomed fat biking trails trace the base area of Grand Targhee.

EAT The Branding Iron www.grandtarghee.com/ vacation-planning/resort-dining Knotty Pine Supper Club www.knottypinesupperclub.com Snorkels www.grandtarghee.com/ vacation-planning/resort-dining Teton Thai www.tetonthai.com/driggs The Trap Bar & Grill www.grandtarghee.com/ vacation-planning/resort-dining

STAY Grand Targhee Resort www.grandtarghee.com Teton Valley Resort www.tetonvalleyresort.com

PLAY Caribou-Targhee National Forest www.fs.usda.gov/ctnf Fat biking www.grandtarghee.com/ activities-events/winteractivities/fat-biking Grand Targhee Resort www.grandtarghee.com Live music at Knotty Pine Supper Club www.knottypinesupperclub.com Nordic skiing www.grandtarghee.com/ activities-events/winteractivities/nordic-ski-area

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 93

1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend

Shelton

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Ellensburg

Mount Rainier N.P.

Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

Live

Think

Explore

18 Nourish

48 2050 Company

76

Oysterville

21 Dandelion Teahouse & Apothecary

50 Encompass Snoqualmie

78

Mount Spokane State Park

22 Washington Fruit Place at Barrett Orchards

50 Mary Bridge Children’s Hospital

82

Alderbrook Resort & Spa

50 The NATIVE Project

84

München Haus

90

Teton Valley, Idaho

40 Seattle Seawolves 42 Christie Tirado

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Stevenson

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Western Washington University

OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2022

Asotin

GIFT WASHINGTON Discover the best of the Evergreen State with a subscription to 1889 Washington’s Magazine. Local getaways, foodie finds, home and design, and more!

Purchase a gift subscription and SAVE 50% off cover price Subscribe today at www.1889mag.com/subscribe

Until Next Time The headwaters of the Nisqually River as it begins on the slopes of Mount Tahoma (Rainier), covered by the fog of a cloudy fall day. The hike to Carter Falls takes you across a single log bridge as it spans the fresh glacier melt. photo by Alex Garland

al Park n io t a N ic Olymp e h t to w n in n s w il o a d r t m y o w r inutes f Trek sno m a e S h s urricane li H a S o t e h le t t t u le or padd winter sh e h t h c t a Wharf s. C s le le e e g g n n A A t t r r Po the Po m o r f e g id R rch! a M y r a u Ja n PNW FIBER EXPOSITION 10/1 CRAB & SEAFOOD FEST 10/7 LIGHT ART EXPERIENCE 11/25-12/24 FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS 12/10 FROSTY MOSS RELAY 2/25 JAZZ IN THE OLYMPICS 4/22

Get the ins and outs of Port Angeles and the surrounding Olympic National Park.

Port Angeles is the spot to start–and stay–during your Olympic Peninsula journey. There’s more to explore @ VisitPortAngeles.com

Check out fall events in wine country

J. Bell Cellars and Lavender

PLAN YOUR TRIP AT VISITYAKIMA.COM

Continue for Special Insert

OUTPLAY EVERYONE

AT THE BEST PLAYGROUND IN THE WEST

White Pass features both alpine skiing and 18 kilometers of cross-country trails. (photo: Jason Hummel Photography/ State of Washington Tourism)

HOLDING AN EDGE PNW SKI AREAS ARE PRIMED FOR THIS YEAR’S NOSTALGIC RETURN TO LIFE AS IT WAS

IT SEEMED ODD that food venues were closed at first. Then, later, they were open but people had to stand wings-span apart. Gondolas were reduced to carrying one person or a single family in the same covid bubble. Skiing and snowboarding came with the additional risk of contagion.

As we enter ski season 2022, this may be the first winter in the past three when families can finally ski together in an environment not encumbered by covid restrictions, where restaurants and bars are close and collegial, where quads serve four riders at once, where the experience returns to its rightful place as one that is shared. This is the winter of the release of pent-up powder and the family revenge.

At the nexus of a rebooted ski season and a surge in family travel, we will all be on the lookout for the intersection of adventure and value. In the following pages, we delve into the details so that you can make informed decisions about how you’re spending your stoke dollars.

Cover: Fernie Alpine Resort (photo: Henry Georgi/Fernie Alpine Resort)

2022 SKI NORTHWEST 3

OREGON

MT. BACHELOR Tucked into the Deschutes National Forest, Mt. Bachelor is, by many metrics, Oregon’s biggest ski area. Even before the new quad Cloudchaser opened in 2016, adding 635 new skiable acres to the mountain, Bachelor was already the undisputed heavyweight among its Oregon peers. On a volcano in the sunny Central Oregon high desert just outside of Bend, Bachelor’s powder is light and deep, with an average of 462 inches of snowfall per year. The resort is family friendly, with lessons, learning areas and experienced ski instructors, yet has plenty of expert runs and off-piste challenges as well.

While Bachelor can be seen for miles around, it’s 22 miles back

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into Bend where you’ll find the first lodging accommodations.

The first hotel coming back to Bend from Bachelor is LOGE, a cool remake of a lifeless motel that now has ski lockers, a bar and a barbecue area with Traeger grills. Families may want to consider Tetherow, where there’s a bar and restaurants, as well as a heated pool, or The Oxford for the convenience of being in downtown Bend.

For winding down in Bend, there are easy and scenic hikes close by. The River Trail can be accessed in The Old Mill District and comprises a three-mile loop if you’re inclined, or just stroll any section of it. Drake Park alongside Mirror Pond is also a nice stroll if you’re staying downtown.

FROM TOP Mt. Bachelor receives an average of 462 inches of snowfall per year.

LOGE in Bend offers an outdoor firepit and the closest access to Mt. Bachelor.

Running around Bend’s Old Mill District is an easy and flat warm-down. (photos, from top: Anelise Bergin/Mt. Bachelor, LOGE, Visit Central Oregon)

OREGON

HOODOO SKI AREA Known by the motto “Steep, Deep and Cheap,” Hoodoo is a budget alternative to the popular Mt. Bachelor.

It has thirty-six runs, 800 skiable acres and five li­fts.

On the Santiam Pass, Hoodoo’s base elevation is 4,700 feet. Though Hoodoo gets an average annual snowfall of 450 inches, the resort struggles with weather patterns atop the Santiam Pass. When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy Western town of Sisters. Peak holiday adult lift tickets are $70, kids (8-12) $40. Kids 7 and younger are free. Keep in mind that Thrifty Thursdays passes from January to March are just $29.

The lodging options for Hoodoo include FivePine Lodge in Sisters, a boutique property with beautiful and modern facilities tucked into a quiet wooded area. Up the road and closer to Hoodoo is Black Butte Ranch, a luxury destination resort with vacation rentals, restaurants and more. There is a Best Western on the edge of town, too.

Both Black Butte Ranch and FivePine Lodge have trails immediately outside your door for a stroll into the forest.

They also both have amazing spas to leave the real world far behind.

When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy Western town of Sisters.

Mt. Hood Meadows is a sprawling terrain for all levels and types of skiers. (photo: Richard Hallman/Mt. Hood Meadows)

MT. HOOD MEADOWS Hood River could arguably be considered the winter bedroom community for Mt. Hood Meadows ski area, 35 scenic miles south. Meadows, as it’s known, has 2,150 acres of terrain, 2,777 vertical, 11 lifts and 87 trails. Its reputation soars with advanced skiers as its terrain offers a lot in the expert range. Ticket prices vary as Meadows now uses dynamic pricing based on demand.

If your family is just starting to ski or snowboard, you might check out Cooper Spur Mountain Resort on the north side of Mt. Hood. It has 10 runs, 350 feet of vertical and alpine lessons.

Passes are $49 for adults and $39 for kids ages 7-14.

Lodging in Hood River begins with the handsome and historic Hood River Hotel downtown. Not

only is this a stylish and comfortable redoubt, if you’re already a season pass holder at Meadows, you’ll get 15 percent off your room rate. The adjacent Nordic restaurant, Broder Øst, is more reason to make this your lodging destination. The Best Western Plus makes our list because of its gentle vistas of the Columbia River and its proximity to pFriem Brewery, one of the best in Oregon’s competitive field.

Water has a calming effect after a long day on the mountain. Hood River Waterfront Park runs alongside the rolling Columbia. If the wind isn’t too strong and the temperature too low, this walk will help you relax and unwind. For body wellness, look to Spa Remedease at the beautiful setting of the Columbia Gorge Hotel.

Hood River Hotel is a historic inn with a stylish flare and surrounded by great dining options. (photo: Hood River Hotel)

FROM TOP FivePine Lodge is a quiet wooded retreat in Sisters. Hoodoo has drops and family-friendly prices. (photos, from top: Visit Central Oregon, Hoodoo Ski Area)

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Find your fun.

From the world-class skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows to a world of hospitality and culture waiting below, Hood River is your destination for discovery.

OREGON

Cozy up at the rustic Lake of the Woods Resort. (photo: Lake of the Woods Resort)

KLAMATH FALLS Just up the road from Klamath Falls lie mountains of winter fun.

From Crater Lake National Park to Willamette Pass Ski Area, this area gives you options and beauty like few others. Crater Lake is known for its perennial deep, deep snow and the glorious challenge of skiing or snowshoeing its rim during winter. Though it does take planning, chutzpah and endurance, it is a bucket list experience. Snowshoe outings are led

ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT The base of Anthony Lakes just north of Baker City in Eastern Oregon begins at 7,100 feet, which ain’t nothing. The oldschool ski area feels a little like the one you grew up with, but with a twist. The terrain can get a little steep. The snow can get very deep, and the backcountry or cat skiing can be top-shelf pow pow.

One triple chair serves twenty-one runs and 1,100 acres.

Anthony Lakes’ Starbottle Saloon in the lodge is itself worth the journey.

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Snowshoeing at Crater Lake can be done in small outings or as a multi-day circumnavigation of the lake. (photo: Discover Klamath)

by a Ranger, starting at 1 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.

Crater Lake Lodge is open year-round, but you will need to book far in advance. The park’s café is open 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., the visitor center from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For old-school fun alpine skiing, head to Willamette Pass Ski Area.

Baker City is your home base 35 miles southeast of the resort, where the historic Geiser Grand Hotel will nicely feed this nostalgic ski vacation. First opened in 1889, Geiser Grand today retains the splendor of centuries gone by.

Also, if you’ve already made the trek and never been to the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, you should not miss this detour, about 9 miles outside of Baker City. A trail outside of the center leads to actual wagon tracks from the Oregon Trail. That should be a grounding experience for all and a historic ending to a nostalgic ski trip through time.

It has four lifts and a magic carpet accessing 555 skiable acres. About two-thirds of all trails are intermediate or beginner level, with the backside trails more tailored for expert skiers and snowboarders.

Adult day passes (ages 11-64) are $66. Kids 6-10 are $44.

If rustic is your fancy, Lake of the Woods Resort will appeal

Anthony Lakes is old-school skiing at its finest. The Nordic trails are fantastic, too! (photo: Alyssa Henry)

to your senses. Tucked into the mountains west of Klamath Falls and sitting on the edge of Lake of the Woods, each of the thirty-three cabins on the property has its own character. Some of the cabins have gas stoves to cozy up to for a drink, or stay warm under down comforters and Pendleton blankets.

EASTERN OREGON P OWDER AWAITS...

AnthonyLakes.com

FULL SERVICE DAY LODGE ALPINE & NORDIC YURT RENTALS CAT TRIPS

TravelBakerCounty.com T

Photo by: Chelsea Judy

WASHINGTON MT. ADAMS Big huckers take to Mt. Adams for backcountry joie de vivre. (photo: Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism)

A lesser-known winter recreation area is on and around the Mt. Adams glacier in south central Washington. Just 23 miles north of the Columbia River town of White Salmon, the Mt. Adams Ranger District offers a winter playground for those who want to ditch the crowds and chairlift service.

The southern shoulder of the mountain has a half dozen sno-parks, where you can cross-country ski or snowshoe.

For backcountry skiers, Mt. Adams, the second tallest mountain in the state, offers mostly expert-level exertion and thrills. No lift lines here and no exorbitant day-pass either. For families who have put time into backcountry safety and avalanche training, they will celebrate this peak as a holiday destination and gift. To be fair, there are a couple of low-angle runs, but they require the same backcountry training and gear as the expert runs. Be sure to get your sno-park permit for parking.

Retire to the cool kickback town of White Salmon for a much-deserved craft beer and burger. Everybody’s Brewing (and its new brewery) is the place to relax with really good beer in a modern rustic setting.

A lesser-known winter recreation area is on and around the Mt. Adams glacier in south central Washington. Just 23 miles north of the Columbia River town of White Salmon, the Mt. Adams Ranger District offers a winter playground for those who want to ditch the crowds and chairlift service.

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YOUR ADVENTURE BEGINS IN THE

METHOW VALLEY

o t e m ho

NORTH AMERICA'S LARGEST CROSS-COUNTRY SKI AREA

120+ miles of groomed trails kids ski free winter fun for everyone

www.methowtrails.org

DREAMING OF A WHITE SALMON 40 MILES SOUTH = 5 SKI RESORTS

30 MILES NORTH = 154 MILES OF GROOMED SNOWMOBILES TRAILS, 10 MILES OF GROOMED SKI TRAILS, AND ENDLESS MILES OF SNOW FOR SNOWSHOEING ADVENTURES.

XS Mountain Town

WhiteSalmon_Dreaming_Ad.indd 1

XL Culinary Scene

8/19/22 3:14 PM

WASHINGTON

WHITE PASS SKI AREA Less than an hour west of Yakima, White Pass Ski Area sets up nicely for families, with half of its runs intermediate, a third beginner and a smattering of advanced runs. In all, there are 1,400 skiable acres, with 2,000 feet of vertical covering six chairlifts and 45 runs. White Pass’s Nordic skiing comprises 18 kilometers of groomed skinny skiing.

For those who want to get in the maximum number of turns, book a rental condo at White Pass Village Inn directly across the road from the ski resort. Otherwise, head into Yakima, where there are many compelling options. The Hotel Y, Ledgestone Hotel and Hotel Maison are just a few.

Serenity Day Spa is a good place to unwind from the day’s bump and grind. Or set your mind at ease at the Yakima Area Arboretum, along the banks of the Yakima River, open all days and from dawn to dusk.

AT RIGHT White Pass Ski Area’s other act is Nordic skiing in an amazing setting. (photo: Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism)

METHOW VALLEY When the skis get skinnier and the trails get longer, you’re in the heart of Nordic country. One of the world’s best expressions of Nordic ski terrain is Methow Valley, where groomed trails wind more than 100 miles along the Methow River around the floor of the valley and into the surrounding forests. The string of towns along this part of the valley are Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp.

Here, you are in a Nordic mecca in the Pacific Northwest.

You can also find many kilometers of trails outside of Sun Mountain Lodge northwest of Winthrop. Book this lodge and you’ll find that many rooms

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have gas fireplaces and hot tubs and the lodge has two outdoor heated pools.

Back in Winthrop, the rustic River’s Edge Resort or Methow River Lodge puts you on the banks of the Chewuch and Methow rivers respectively and with hot tubs overlooking the calming rivers.

Walk down to the community ice rink on the Susie Stephens Trail and, if you’re comfortable with ice skates, glide around the outdoor rink, taking in the fantastic Methow Valley all around you. When you’re ready for relaxation, indulge in Sun Mountain Lodge’s full spa for some body work.

L

CR +

ABOVE Nordic skiing in the Methow Valley is unmatched in the state of Washington.

AT LEFT Sun Mountain Lodge is one of the best ways to experience the area. (photo, above: Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism; photo, at left: OCTC)

Project is funded totally or in part, as applicable, by the Okanogan County Hotel/Motel Lodging Tax Fund

LARGEST

CROSS-COUNTRY TRAIL SYSTEM IN NORTH AMERICA + 2 FAMILY-FRIENDLY SKI HILLS

FREE MAPS AND GUIDES!

Call 888.431.3080, Scan the QR Code, or visit OkanoganCountry.com to start planning your adventure today!

Warm up in Yakima after your day at White Pass. Lodging, dining, wineries, breweries and more await you down the mountain.

Co

fea

tra

PLAN YOUR TRIP AT VISITYAKIMA.COM

su

Wilderness

luxury at the edge of the wilderness

DISCOVER THE EDGE OF THE

Consider Sun Mountain Lodge your home base for exploring the Methow Valley. The area features over 200 kilometers of groomed cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat tire biking trails; your outdoor winter adventure is only limited by your imagination. Scan the QR code or visit sunmountainlodge.com to plan the ultimate winter getaway today.

800.572.0493 | sunmountainlodge.com

IDAHO

MCCALL Many people take McCall as a summer fling—paddleboards, water skiing and beach volleyball. They are half right. For winter explorers, McCall is a playground and a cozy respite from everyday stress.

Once a brothel-and-booze warren of the early 1900s, McCall underwent a transformation that brought four-season recreation to the fore. The small town on the edge of Payette National Forest curves around the southern bank of Payette Lake, 100 hundred miles north of the bustle of Boise.

To the northwest of McCall is Brundage Mountain Resort, known for its high base, deep snow, a nearly 2,000-foot vertical drop, horse-drawn sleigh rides and elegant four-course dinners at the secluded Bear’s Den cabin.

For those who prefer skinnier skis, McCall has fantastic groomed Nordic trails nearby.

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Little Bear Basin, Ponderosa State Park and Jug Mountain Ranch are just a few areas where novice to novel skiers can kick and glide through amazing outdoor scenes.

Due to its extensive trail network, McCall is also a mecca for fat biking and snowshoeing.

Meadow Marsh in Ponderosa State Park is scenic and close.

The park has 3.4 miles of snowshoe trails and another 12 miles groomed for Nordic skiing.

McCall’s winter appeal also comes from its warm, cozy retreats at the end of the day. Burgdorf Hot Springs is a bucket list destination. In winter, the resort is accessible only by snowmobile and has fifteen rustic cabins with wood stoves, firewood and spare furnishings. Both Cheap Thrills and CM Backcountry Rentals offer daily snowmobile rentals, but be prepared to spend $200 for the machine.

FROM TOP Brundage Mountain Resort is known for its high base and deep snow. Take a dip in Burgdorf Hot Springs, accessible only by snowmobile in winter. McCall is also a great destination for showshoeing with the family. (photos: Visit Idaho)

Make tracks, make memories.

Book your McCall, Id winter vacation at

visitmccall.org

Stay Ski Stay & & Ski Packages Packages FROM $174* *Per Person, based on double occupancy

Sign the McCall Promise and help us preserve this special place.

The MCCall Promise

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CANADA

AT LEFT Fernie offers 2,500 acres of lift-service terrain. ABOVE FROM TOP Fernie is a stunner in the Canadian Rockies and more affordable with the exchange rate. Spirits at the other-worldly Ice Bar at Fernie. (photos, clockwise from left: Fernie Alpine Resort, Henry Georgi/Fernie Alpine Resort, Matt Kuhn)

FERNIE ALPINE RESORT Located 242 miles northeast of Spokane in the Lizard Range of the Canadian Rockies, Fernie Alpine Resort is renowned for its huge annual snowfall that averages 30 feet. Of course, you’ll only need the top 3 or 4 feet of wispy powder to make it the best ski experience ever.

Fernie is a complete village resort with ski services, lodging, dining, bars and a grocery store, and its skiing covers all types of

terrain. The lift-service alpine area has 2,500 skiable acres, with 3,550 vertical, 142 runs and a few restaurants on the mountain.

Finish with fire and ice. At Cirque Restaurant & Bar, warm up with flaming cocktails and spectacular mountain views.

Then slip on a parka and walk straight into the Ice Bar, built from blocks of ice.

Note: Fernie’s remoteness in southeastern British Columbia is another reason to love it.

Fernie is renowned for its huge annual snowfall that averages 30 feet. Of course, you’ll only need the top 3 or 4 feet of wispy powder to make it the best ski experience ever.

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Experience the Canadian Rockies, Fernie Style.

Photo: Matt Kuhn

Over 30 Ft of Snow Annually | 3,550 Vertical Ft | Top Elevation 7,000 Ft 2,500 Acres of Lift Access Terrain & Thousands of Acres for Catskiing

Located in the Rockies of southeast British Columbia, Fernie is known for its deep powder snow and cool local vibe.

Just over a 100 miles north of Whitefish & Kalispell, Montana, Fernie is easy to get to.

With savings of 20-25% thanks to the great exchange rate, a trip north this winter is well worth it!

Fernie Alpine Resort – 4 Nights Ski-in Ski-Out Suite & 4 Days of Skiing from US$146/night/person.* FWA Catskiing – Single Day Snowcat Skiing from US$424/person, early or late season.

Island Lake Catskiing – 2 Nights & 2 Days All-Inclusive from US$1,742/person.* *based on double occupancy

Book today and enjoy a spectacular winter! | VisitFernieBC.com | #ferniestoke

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