1889 Washington's Magazine | February/March 2024

TRIP PLANNER: WINTHROP PG. 86

Snake River Salmon Face an Upstream Battle

Sustainable Lipstick?

Astoria: Your Next Oregon Coast Getaway

DRI T HI NK PG S! .

48

NEW WAVE NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS

COOL SEATTLE SPOTS

ARE HAVING A MOMENT

FOR BOOZE-FREE COCKTAILS

WASHINGTON ’S BEST PLACES TO

STARGAZE

1889mag.com $5.95 display until March 31, 2024

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

WASHINGTON February | March

volume 41

Hospitality. Traditions.

Experiences.

World-Famous Rodeo

Legendary Concerts

Outdoor Recreation

Unique Adventures & Tours

Family-Friendly Fun

Fly From PDX!

www.TravelPendleton.com @TravelPendleton Please Drink Responsibly

Learn More

WCVA_

SPEND A WEEKEND EXPLORING SOME

NEW GRAPE STOMPING GROUNDS.

Experience an exceptional, intimate world of wine just west of Portland.

Find your new favorite pour at

Order Your FREE Wine Touring Guide

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG WCVA_1889_WA_JAN_FEB_2024.indd 1

12/12/23 4:23 PM

Sean Day, 16, rides at the SeaTac BMX race track in SeaTac.

Off to the Races photography by Jim Meyers

Tacoma BMX phenom Sean Day, 16, trains for the sport’s highest competitions. (pg. 30) 2

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

3

Brooke Fitts

FEATURES FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024 • volume 41

44 The NA Revolution Tequila sunrises are being overtaken by the sober-curious crowd, who are leading a trend in nonalcoholic cocktails for those who want to see a sunrise. written by Ryn Pfeuffer

52 Ripple Effect Pressure is building on Congress to free the lower Snake River of dams and let salmon flourish.

The Nez Perce Tribe thinks this could be the moment after sixty years of obstruction. written by Daniel O’Neil

62 Fine Art Fossils Bellingham paleoartist David Miller combines science and art to bring us into the world of his prehistoric subjects. written by Kerry Newberry

4

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

DEPARTMENTS Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024 • volume 41

81

LIVE 12 SAY WA?

Farm-to-distillery spirits, Asia Pacific’s Lunar New Year, Loose Wing’s Miracle Baby, Live Wire’s Luke Burbank.

16 FOOD + DRINK

Here Today Brewery, the Stargazer cocktail, smoked salmon chowder.

20 FARM TO TABLE

Winter squash at Bailey Farm.

24 HOME + DESIGN

Opening the views atop Squalicum Mountain in Bellingham.

30 MIND + BODY

BMX racing’s young star, Sean Day, 16.

34 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE Paper Whale

The muralist philosophy of Paper Whale.

34

THINK 38 STARTUP

Vermouth’s natural crayon lipsticks.

40 MY WORKSPACE

The influence of Michele Y. Smith at Seattle’s Museum of Pop Culture.

42 GAME CHANGER Camp Hope, Yakima.

EXPLORE 80 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve.

38

81 ADVENTURE

Finding the darkest skies for stargazing.

84 LODGING

The Outlook Inn on Orcas Island.

8 Editor’s Letter 9 1889 Online 94 Map of Washington 96 Until Next Time

86 TRIP PLANNER

Winthrop’s winter wonderland.

92 NW DESTINATION Astoria, Oregon.

COVER

photo by Brooke Fitts Kamp Social House’s Winter in Cabo nonalcoholic cocktail (see “Mindful Drinking Goes Mainstream,” pg. 44)

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

5

CONTRIBUTORS

LAUREN KRAMER Writer Gastronomy, Dining and Lodging

BROOKE FITTS Photographer Mindful Drinking Goes Mainstream

“It’s a privilege to write about the exquisite beauty of the Pacific Northwest. As I take over the Lodging and Dining sections of 1889, I’m humbled by the opportunity to sample the gastronomic feasts that talented chefs create from our verdant farmland, and the charm and deep nourishment that come from visits to our extraordinary selection of luxury inns, lodges and hotels.” (pg. 18, 84)

“I always feel excited about Seattle’s drinking and dining scene. I had heard of Kamp, but hadn’t visited, so I was happy to be assigned to photograph it so I could check it out! I found it to be such a warm and inviting spot with a true spirit of community. I love how Kamp is a welcoming bar for people choosing to drink less, and it’s such a fun spot to hang out in as well. I’ll be back!” (pg. 44)

Lauren Kramer is a Bellinghambased freelance writer who was born in Cape Town, South Africa.

She relishes raising a family in the Pacific Northwest and writes about social issues, food, travel and fascinating people.

Brooke Fitts is a Seattle-based food and lifestyle photographer.

When she’s not taking photographs, you can find her in her veggie garden, planning her next adventure or happily cooking and eating something delicious.

6 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

JIM MEYERS Photographer Mind + Body “I love photographing people with stories to tell, but give me someone exceptional to capture, and that’s even better.

Seemingly beyond his years, Sean Day was great to work with. We squeezed the shoot in before his upcoming travel and a lousy forecast, and while they literally pulled the tarps over the track on the last day of season at SeaTac. Sean now knows that when a photographer says, ‘One more time,’ it’s probably a lie.” (pg. 30) Jim Meyers is a commercial and editorial photographer based in Seattle. When he’s not taking pictures, he’s out in the mountains or on the water, taking pictures.

RYN PFEUFFER Writer Mindful Drinking Goes Mainstream “In 2023, my partner made the decision to bid farewell to alcohol. Witnessing this inspired me to reassess my own connection with drinking and adopt a ‘sober sometimes’ approach. Thankfully, Seattle boasts an abundance of beverage programs with well-crafted low and zeroproof cocktails. These options prioritize the non-alcoholic experience, proving that choosing a spirit-free path doesn’t mean sacrificing tasty flavors in your sips.” (pg. 44) Ryn Pfeuffer is a freelance lifestyle writer, and over the past two decades, her work has appeared in Men’s Health, Playboy, WIRED, Marie Claire and The Washington Post. She lives in Seattle with her partner and rescue dog.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Rachel Gallaher, Ellen Hiatt, Joni Kabana, Lauren Kramer, Daniel O’Neil, Ryn Pfeuffer, Lauren Purdy, Ben Salmon, Jen Sotolongo, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jeremy Bittermann, Jackie Dodd, Brooke Fitts, James Harnois, Brian Lackey, Jim Meyers, Daniel O’Neil, Bill Purcell, Morgen Schuler

Mail

Headquarters

70 SW Century Dr. Suite 100-218 Bend, Oregon 97702

1627 NE 3rd St. Suite 300 Bend, OR 97701

www.1889mag.com/subscribe @1889washington

All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 7

FROM THE

EDITOR

A CRITICAL MOMENT in the evolution of American culture is coming to all life affected by the lower Snake River in Eastern Washington. In the early to mid twenty-first century, we proudly deployed concrete and the Army Corps of Engineers like cures for illnesses that were real or imaginary, hulking triumphs of man over nature.

On the lower Snake River, we are facing a pivotal moment where the din to remove these symbols—a network of hydroelectric dams—is being driven by both the abundance of newer forms of power and the desire to return the river to its natural state, where salmon thrive. Turn to page 52 to read our story on this turning point in history as it plays out on the lower Snake.

Another cultural revolution is taking place across pages 44 to 51 and throughout the Pacific Northwest. The NA (nonalcoholic) cock-

8 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

tail culture is not one that I go gently into like Dylan Thomas’ smoky nights. It’s one, however, that is taking root and building out as more people invite sober-curious nights to their lives. We take a look at the new bars and drinks in the exploding NA constellation.

In Adventure on page 81, we tease out the darkest and best places for Washingtonians to see actual constellations. Stargazing done right increasingly means getting away from the masses to a place where all the light we can see is coming from above. These are some of the places that you would already have on your spring or summer wishlist anyway.

Perhaps there is no better way to end this editor’s letter than with the accidentally perfect connection, the Stargazer cocktail (pg. 16), brought to us courtesy of Seattle’s Bathtub Gin & Co. Not surprisingly, there is an NA bourbon substitute for the sober-curious stargazer.

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

YOUR PNW NEWSLETTER More Pacific Northwest, delivered to your inbox!

Sign up for our Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest Northwest getaways, giveaways and more. www.1889mag.com/1889-newsletter

SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find outdoor gear, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hats and other apparel.

Buy local. Feel good. www.1889mag.com/shop

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1889 Washington’s Magazine and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehoodmediadigital

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website.

If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Annette Archuleta Part of the Washington Heritage Barn Registry, this historic barn in Wilbur was built in 1918.

Original owner Vic Lauritzen hired two builders from Denmark, and they spent two years constructing it. The weather vanes on the roof are inscribed with the date 1918.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

9

SAY WA? 12 FOOD + DRINK 16 FARM TO TABLE 20 HOME + DESIGN 24 MIND + BODY 30

pg. 18 San Juan Island Sea Salt packs the flavor into its sea-to-table salts.

La Vie Photography

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 34

seaside is for Making time for family time

We love sleepovers and school and camps and clubs and playdates and every-Saturday soccer games. But we also know the importance of spending time as a family. In whatever shape or form your family takes! So if real life is making it hard to get everyone together, book a long weekend—or better yet a Spring Break week—in Seaside.

@visitseasideOR

seasideOR.com

say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos Wildwood Spirits Co.

written by Lauren Purdy

Taste Chelan 2024

Sorrento’s Ristorante at Tsillan Cellars was just one of the locations featured during 2023’s Taste Chelan event. (photo: Emily Moller Photography)

Get out this spring and sample from Central Washington’s rich purveyors at Taste Chelan. This March, join Lake Chelan’s Taste Tour each Saturday to enjoy carefully selected food and wine pairings at wineries and restaurants throughout the region. Each ticket gets participants a curated taste of food and wine at four select locations along the Lake Chelan Wine Valley, discounts and specials at participating locations throughout the Chelan Valley, and a Taste Chelan gift bag. View all participating restaurants online to make your reservation. www.lakechelanwinevalley.com/events/taste-chelan

ur yo AR k D ar m EN

Asia Pacific Cultural Center

CA

Asia Pacific’s Lunar New Year Celebration

Wildwood Spirits Seattle-based Wildwood Spirits Co. is on a mission to distill spirits with the same care and attention as a winemaker producing wine or a chef crafting a dish. The passion project of co-owners Erik Liedholm, head distiller and sommelier, and Seattle steak legend John Howie, Wildwood delivers classic spirits such as its popular Kur Gin and Rendition Rye. Liedholm and Howie bring a distinctive perspective to the industry, employing a “farm-to-distillery” model that sources 90 percent of the produce used for distilling—from winter wheat and corn to apple and Douglas fir—from Washington state. Savor spirits and cocktails at either its Ballard or Bothell tasting rooms, or order online.

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

ur R yo A k D ar N m LE

12

CA

www.wildwoodspiritsco.com

Asia Pacific Cultural Center celebrates the lunar new year with its largest yearly event, the Annual Asia Pacific New Year Celebration. This community-based arts and culture exhibition features a different host country or culture each year, and this year’s event on February 24 celebrates Taiwan. The day is filled with more than twenty exciting performances, culture and arts displays, martial arts, cultural demonstrations, authentic cuisine and a variety of vendors and resource booths. Held at the Tacoma Dome for more than two decades, this event brings together thousands of people to be immersed in the rich and diverse cultures of the Asia Pacific. Admission is free. www.asiapacificculturalcenter.org/newyearcelebration

L

Lake Chelan Wine Valley

say wa?

ur yo AR k r D ma EN

CA

L

Red Wine and Chocolate at Lake Chelan February is upon us, and all month long indulge in Lake Chelan Wine Valley’s best artisan wine and chocolate.

Featured tastings include Tipsy Canyon Winery’s 2020 Mélange Noir and Merrow Chocolatier pairing featuring a dark chocolate truffle infused with the wine. Also check out the Rhône-inspired red wine and chocolate pairing at Cairdeas Winery. Explore and register for all events online. www.lakechelanwinevalley.com/ events/red-wine-chocolate

Date Night at Semiahmoo Resort

Semiahmoo Resort

Nestled 45 minutes south of Vancouver, B.C., and two hours north of Seattle, Semiahmoo’s seaside resort is a charming oceanfront getaway year-round.

In celebration of Valentine’s Day, Semiahmoo is offering a fresh series of workshops and events.

Spice things up with an interactive salsa-making class, sample local beer by the sea, sign up to explore a selection of Northwest Washington’s local wines or shake it up with the art of mixology with your loved one. Register and book online. www.semiahmoo.com

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

13

Loose Wing band members (from left) Bill Patton, Claire Tucker, Aimee Zoe and Jack Peters.

Musician

Seattle band pairs jangling indie rock with anxiety and uncertainty

Listen on Spotify

written by Ben Salmon

LOCATED ON 10 forested acres a few miles north of downtown Woodinville, Bear Creek Studio is a legendary recording space in a converted barn that has hosted sessions by artists like Soundgarden, Brandi Carlile, Fleet Foxes, Foo Fighters and Big Thief.

More recently, it’s where Seattle four-piece Loose Wing recorded most of its excellent second album, Miracle Baby, released last fall on the Drums & Wires Recordings label. The studio’s adjoining residence gave the band an opportunity to fully focus on the task at hand, said frontwoman Claire Tucker.

“We stayed there overnight for the first four-day session, so instead of driving home and switching into household-maintenance mode, we were able to listen to mixes from the day and keep coming up with ideas,” she said. “We spent a lot of time playing the grand piano and the restored pump organ in the evenings.

So perhaps it lent a more expansive, experimental feel to the project overall.”

The evidence of that feel can be heard all over Miracle Baby, a ten-track collection of jangling indie pop-rock that’s as melodic as you’d expect from that description, but also sturdy and complex and reflective of the anxieties and uncertainties of modern life—sexism and discrimination, climate change, overstimulation and boredom, consumerism, the crushing weight of late-stage capitalism. “Baby we’re the means of production,” Tucker sings in “Capital Alphabet,” the album’s rousing opening track. “So I drag myself up from nothing / Everyday, everyday.”

Says Tucker: “I rarely set out to write a song about a specific topic. Instead, I tend to start with imagery and the sounds and 14

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

rhythms of words, and how the vocal interacts with the guitar part. A point may or may not emerge later in the process.”

Tucked into every nook and cranny around her words are the sounds of a band experiencing a growth spurt. While Loose Wing’s 2019 self-titled debut featured string arrangements and synthesizers, Miracle Baby expands on that experimentation with irresistible horn parts, hazy twang, gorgeous orchestration, echoes of ’60s soul and ’80s new wave and a couple of slow-moving, ominous tunes that add a new flavor to the band’s sound.

That wasn’t necessarily by design, Tucker said—it’s just embedded in Loose Wing’s DNA. “As a band, we always hope to go in new directions. The first record was made in a relatively compressed period of time, with everything recorded (over about) eight to ten days in the studio, and then it was done,” she said. “For Miracle Baby, we started off at Bear Creek, but we recorded a lot of overdubs … at home, which allowed us to spend many months adding parts, tweaking sounds and following whims. I feel like we needed to see what would happen if we did whatever we felt like doing, and took our time.”

Taking their time not only helped to develop Loose Wing’s sound. It also nourished Tucker’s soul.

“When writing and recording songs, I feel like I do have control over my own little world,” she said. “I feel capable in a way that I don’t really feel in any other area of my life.”

Joshua Simons

Loose Wing’s Miracle Baby

say wa?

Jennie Baker

Luke Burbank’s voice is the one you didn’t know you needed—until now.

Audiophile

Giftedly Garrulous From Live Wire to CBS, Luke Burbank brings his auditory shenanigans to the people interview by Cathy Carroll

LUKE BURBANK hosts Live Wire, the radio show recorded live before Northwest audiences and broadcast to 300,000 weekly listeners nationally. Burbank grew up in Seattle, lives outside of Kalama and brings his wit, insight and pop-culture virtuosity to Live Wire and NPR’s Wait Wait … Don’t Tell Me!, television’s CBS Sunday Morning and the podcast Too Beautiful To Live.

What are some favorite on-air most interesting people in highlights and lowlights?

America.

One highlight was a ChristIn the musical department, mas show featuring the actual Joni Mitchell, Brandi Carlile. Joni (great-) grandkids of the von Mitchell just played with Brandi Trapp family. My mom, who Carlile, who was on the show a raised us on The Sound of Music, long time ago. I was just watchwas in the audience, and the ing on TikTok, Joni Mitchell’s von Trapp descendants sang playing a song, and Bob Dylan is “Edelweiss.” just sitting there, stuLEARN MORE Lowlights: I interpefied at how talented Catch Live Wire live viewed an Icelandic she is—this was in the on the following dates: band called Sigur Rós, late ’60s.

March 16: Live Wire and their command of 20th Anniversary Festival at Revolution English was not super What do the live Hall in Portland strong at the time, and performance tapings March 29: Town Hall Seattle … I was really new. The bring to Live Wire?

For more information interview was really There’s 500 or 800 and event dates, visit awkward … but it’s people in the room. www.livewireradio.org really funny, and so There’s hundreds of we put it on the internet, and thousands of people that are it got a lot of people looking at the radio audience. … I am playit. It’s regularly cited as one of ing to the person in the front the worst interviews of all time, row of the theater. Whether it’s which you could describe as a in Seattle, Portland or wherever, lowlight, but I honestly feel a I promise you’ll have a fun time, certain amount of pride. At least because I can’t get out of my I’m in the top five of something. head that you’re in the room And I ran into Sigur Rós years listening—I will be obsessed later at the music festival Saswith the fact that you are there. quatch, in the Gorge, and they said, in almost perfect English, What are some favorite, “Oh, my God! We are so sorry, inspiring Seattle spots? we were nervous.” For me, the I grew up right by Green Lake, triumphant moment of Live and to this day, when I’m in Wire would be to get Sigur Rós Seattle, I make a pilgrimage to to come back and have a big Green Lake. I didn’t realize when sort of do-over.

I was growing up how lucky I was to get to be near there. I What are some other dream lived in a pretty sketchy neighguests for Live Wire? borhood honestly, but it was a Two would be Tom Hanks and quick bike ride there. I find it to Charles Barkley (NBA star be really kind of restorative. If turned commentator). I had the we’re doing a show in Seattle, opportunity to ask Tom Hanks I’ll go to Green Lake before the when we worked together on show. I’ll either take a walk or a Wait Wait … Don’t Tell Me!, little run. It’s almost cinematic but I missed the chance to for me, because I have so many exchange numbers. Now there memories: football practice, are too many layers of press swimming with my friends. … handlers between us. If Tom Being there as an adult and on Hanks is reading this, hit me up a day when I’m about to go on on Instagram! As for Charles stage and do this dream job of Barkley, I find him one of the mine feels like a life journey.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 15

food + drink

Beervana

Beer is Here Today Brewing a legacy with Chris Elford and Mario Cortés in Seattle written and photographed by Jackie Dodd

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Bathtub Gin & Co. / SEATTLE

The Stargazer

16

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

• 2 ounces bourbon • 2¼ ounces sour (1 part fresh lemon juice + 1 part simple syrup) • ¾ ounce Stargazer mix (1 part Micks Peppourri Death Valley Pepper Jelly + 1 part honey syrup made from 1 part honey + 1 part hot water) • 1 Thai chili, for garnish

Create your sour and Stargazer mixes.

Combine all ingredients except for the chili into a cocktail shaker, add ice and shake.

Pour into serving glass, and garnish with a Thai chili.

Photo: Nikki Barron

Here Today Brewery & Kitchen is the marriage of very drinkable beer with views of Elliott Bay.

IN THE BUSTLING landscape of Seattle’s craft beer scene, Here Today Brewery & Kitchen stands as a testament to the confluence of expertise and passion. At the helm of this brewing powerhouse are industry stalwart Chris Elford and brewing virtuoso Mario Cortés, each bringing a wealth of experience and skill to the fermented table.

Situated at the base of the 10 Clay building, where Belltown converges with the waterfront, Here Today Brewery is a late 1980s fever dream of a location, like what Miami Vice and Stranger Things would dream up, but with eminently drinkable beer, cocktails you can’t forget and elevated pub food (don’t sleep on the fired mushrooms). The spacious patio provides a panoramic view of Elliott Bay, creating an idyllic setting for beer consumption, with or without your dogs and kids in tow.

Elford has an impressive track record in the late-night bar and restaurant world. As one of the minds behind No Anchor, Navy Strength, Vinnie’s and NYC’s Proletariat as well as an award-winning bartender in his own right, Elford brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to Here Today Brewery.

The venue is more than just a brewing venture for Elford; it’s an embodiment of his dedication to creating spaces that resonate and connect with patrons.

Elford is fine-tuning Here Today Brewery’s kitchen to offer classically American and Northwest-inspired dishes with an elevated twist. His goal is to cater to both locals and visitors, ensuring the culinary

food + drink

offerings pair well with the brewery’s thoughtfully crafted beer and inspired cocktails.

In partnering with the talented Cortés as head brewer, Elford found a kindred spirit in the brewing realm. Their shared love for German-leaning session beers and a commitment to mastering the art of clean, drinkable IPA brewing set the stage for a diverse and exceptional beer menu with new offerings arriving weekly. Their beer can art alone is worth the trip into Seattle. Cortés—with an illustrious background working at Oskar Blues, Harpoon, Houston’s Karbach Brewing and, a personal favorite of mine, California’s HenHouse Brewing— puts his own stamp on the beer, creating beautiful

flavors that draw inspiration from his heritage and childhood.

Here Today Brewery stands tall in Seattle’s nearly saturated craft beer panorama, a manifestation of Elford’s journey through the landscape of bar ownership and cocktail slinging and Cortés’ relentless pursuit of brewing perfection. Together, they have created a space where every pour tells a story of expertise, passion and an unwavering commitment to meticulously crafted beers. Set aside some time this year to stop in for a pint, soak in the waterfront ambience and witness the convergence of brewing legacy and neotropical elegance at Here Today Brewery.

HERE TODAY BREWERY & KITCHEN 2815 ELLIOTT AVE., SUITE 101 SEATTLE www.heretoday seattle.com

What to Know: • Kid- and dog-friendly • Open seven days a week • Brunch served on weekends

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Belltown’s Here Today Brewery & Kitchen. Founder and CEO Chris Elford brings a creative space for locals and visitors. Head brewer Mario Cortés favors German-style beers and clean IPAs.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 17

Photos: La Vie Photography

food + drink

CRAVINGS CROISSANTS There are a lot of delicious reasons to head to Brown Bear Baking on Orcas Island, but one of the top is its pain au chocolat, a divinely buttery confection made by two classically trained chefs who call themselves “the bears.” A crisp, flaky croissant hides rich segments of semisweet French chocolate for a mouthwatering treat. Other tempting items in the bears’ baking arsenal include smoked salmon and goat cheese quiche and mission fig and apricot bread.

29 NORTH BEACH & MAIN ST. EASTSOUND www.brownbearbaking.com

VEGAN BACON

Brady Ryan at his sea salt evaporation greenhouse on San Juan Island. AT RIGHT San Juan Island Sea Salt flavors include dill pickle salt, chili lime salt and others.

Gastronomy

San Juan Island Sea Salt written by Lauren Kramer BRADY RYAN is a salt-of-the-earth farmer committed to producing flavorful salt that comes straight from the ocean, 3 miles from his San Juan Island farm. Most of the salt we buy in grocery stores today is boiled, but at Ryan’s fourteen sea salt evaporation greenhouses, nature does the work. Here, seawater evaporates naturally beneath the sunshine, leaving behind 20,000 pounds of salt each year. He uses these perfect crystals to create more than thirty flavored culinary blends that encapsulate the taste of the island and beyond.

Choose from smoked madrona salt, dill pickle salt, chili lime salt, Friday Harbor seafood blend, coffee salt and a popcorn blend. Recently he partnered with Bow Hill Blueberries to craft a blueberry habanero blend ideal for fish, salads and roasted vegetables. “We love sharing the magic and beauty of the San Juan islands through flavor,” said Ryan, whose retail selection includes salted honey caramels and madrona smoked sugar.

80 NICHOLS ST. FRIDAY HARBOR www.sanjuanislandseasalt.com

18 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

It’s hard to find a really great meatless product, but Leaf & Ladle in Bellingham has nailed it with its tempeh. Added to its wraps and salads as a gluten-free, meatless bacon substitute, this ingredient is flavored with coconut, marinated and roasted, delivering a satisfying, tasty crunch to the meatless menu items.

1113 N. STATE ST. BELLINGHAM Leaf & Ladle on Facebook

POUTINE If you love poutine, be sure to visit The Black Duck Cask and Bottle in Issaquah for its take on this French-Canadian comfort food. The restaurant’s duck gravy poutine features house-cut fries with confit garlic and fried sage, covered with Beecher’s cheese curds and finished with a rich duck gravy.

317 NW GILMAN BLVD., #31-B ISSAQUAH www.theblackduckcaskandbottle.com

SMOKED SALMON CHOWDER Nothing says West Coast like Ivar’s Alaska smoked salmon chowder. The chunky consistency of this creamy, protein-filled bowl of goodness is a hearty meal on its own, with alder-smoked Alaskan salmon, potatoes and vegetables suspended in a rich, creamy broth.

It’s available at Ivar’s restaurants and seafood bars and frozen in bulk quantities at US Foods chef’s stores.

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS www.ivars.com

BEST PLACES FOR

STEWS SKAGIT VALLEY FOOD CO-OP If you’re in the mood for a hearty vegetable stew that will sate your appetite and your sweet tooth, stop by the deli at the Skagit Valley Food Co-op in Mount Vernon for a bowl of West African ground nut stew. This rich, vegan, gluten-free meal-in-a-bowl combines peanut butter and coconut milk with assorted vegetables for a desirable winter dish.

Photos: James Zamory/Carnal

food + drink

202 S. FIRST ST. MOUNT VERNON www.skagitfoodcoop.com

SAINTS AND SCHOLARS IRISH PUB Saints and Scholars Irish Pub makes an unforgettable shepherd’s pie with a modern twist on this classic comfort dish.

A blend of lamb and beef is simmered with a medley of vegetables and a mix of ten spices, crowned with cheesy, herbed mashed potatoes and finished with fresh pea shoots for a subtle, earthy flavor.

7726 CENTER BLVD. SE, #110 SNOQUALMIE www.saintsandscholars.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A cocktail at Bellingham’s Carnal. The dining scene at Carnal. The restaurant specializes in wood-fired dishes such as its slow-cooked beef short rib.

Dining

Carnal written by Lauren Kramer

The Lighthouse Bar & Grill in Bellingham is the place to go for beef bourguignon, a rich, wintry dish that combines caramelized vegetables with beef bone broth and smoky bacon. In this iteration, potatoes are replaced with bluebird farro, a grain that adds texture and dimension to this iconic French stew.

NEXT TIME you’re in the mood for a high-end dinner that defies the fine dining category with its casual ambience, head to Carnal in Bellingham. Here, marrow bones are arranged artistically on the wall framing the open kitchen, and a wood-burning fireplace crackles on cold winter nights, warming a restaurant that’s spacious but still feels cozy.

We sat down for rye sourdough served with sea lettuce butter ($5), and king salmon crudo with charred date, bay leaf and sweet potato vinaigrette ($16). Those unusual flavor combinations are precisely what makes Carnal unique and extraordinary, pairings that are carefully thought-out and utterly delicious. They’re ubiquitous throughout the menu, from the cocktail selection through to the dessert.

Carnal is known for its live fire cooking and prepares its signature dish, slow-cooked beef short rib ($36), on an open flame. The result is an incredibly tender, melt-in-your-mouth, 9-ounce serving of meat that lives long in memory. We added a serving of carrots also cooked on the flame ($18), topped with leeks, roasted walnut butter and chicken jus. There were just five carrots, but they were the best carrots I’ve ever tasted.

The menu is small but has all the necessities: fish, meat, chicken and veggies, with some neat cocktail items you won’t find anywhere else. Leave space for the wood-fired figs ($8), prepared with bacon fat, hibiscus and urfa honey.

1 BELLWETHER WAY BELLINGHAM www.hotelbellwether.com

1234 N. STATE ST. BELLINGHAM www.eatcarnal.com

PERICO’S LOUNGE Nothing says comfort food like a steaming bowl of seafood chowder. Perico’s Lounge in Wenatchee menus a seafood botana, a delicious stew where tilapia loins, scallops, shrimp and huge chunks of octopus are served in a broth in a hot molcajete.

601 S. MISSION ST. WENATCHEE www.pericoslounge.com

LIGHTHOUSE BAR & GRILL

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 19

farm to table The lovely hues of winter squash.

Farm to Table

Squash Season Embrace Washington winter with comforting, veg-centric dishes written by Corinne Whiting photography by Morgen Schuler IN SNOHOMISH, Bailey Farm sits on about 350 acres of land. As part of the fifth generation to work for this family business, Anne Bailey-Freeman is the manager of the pumpkin patch and u-pick fruit (strawberries, raspberries and apples). She helps her dad, Don, and sister, Elizabeth, run their 60-acre u-pick garden.

Historically, the farm has grown crops for the processor and operated a dairy. “Over the past twenty to thirty years,” Bailey said, “the farm has slowly transitioned from selling on a commercial scale to processors, to directly selling to the public. The demand continues to grow for that on-farm experience, where people come out to the farm, harvest their own produce, enjoy the fresh air and scenery and go home with fresh produce. We get people looking to load up on produce to can and preserve, as well as families looking for a farm outing, to our weekly or even daily loyalists for their farm-fresh fill.”

20

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

farm to table

Bailey credits her “steady-hand” dad for keeping things going—with his stick-with-it mentality and ability to see the big picture. “With the farm being in the family for so many generations, there is a sense of responsibility to do our best to take care of the land for the future,” she said. “The main reward is not monetary, but the privilege of living on this beautiful piece of land.”

Their u-pick farm remains open from June through October, starting with strawberries in June, and raspberries and veggies ramping up in July. Their main crops are potatoes, pickling cucumbers, sweet corn and pumpkins. When it comes to winter squash, a seasonal superfood that provides a generous portion of one’s daily vitamin A needs, they direct seed the vegetable in mid-May. Though it’s possible to transplant squash, it can be tricky. “We’ve had best success with direct seeding in fertile, well-drained soil,” Bailey explained. “If homeowners have a warmer spot to plant them, the plants will love that.”

Bailey said they usually can’t keep customers out of the squash patch much later than mid to late September, so typically customers tell them when they want to start picking. “In my opinion, squash is best after a frost and the vines begin to die down,” Bailey said. “It’s less common to get that weather now with warm weather extending into the fall, but if you can be patient, there is nothing like squash in mid to late October.” Her advice? Keep an eye out; you’ll know the squash isn’t ready if the skin is soft enough to easily pierce with a fingernail. “Another indicator of ripeness is when the skin takes on a darker, deeper tone showing that the fruit is maturing,” she said.

Squash seem to thrive in this Pacific Northwest farm’s “usually pleasant but warm summer weather,” and they can take a little heat, too. Of course, fertility and soil prove important to their health, too. “Homeowners can help their squash out by mixing in plenty of compost to their soil before they plant, make sure the area drains well, and put them in a warm, sunny spot,” Bailey adds. Winter squash should be stored in a cool, dark area, whether a refrigerator, cool basement or garage.

At downtown Seattle’s Edgewater Hotel, Six Seven proves an especially cozy spot to dine while taking in winter sunsets over steely Elliott Bay. Sous chef Eric Koepsell happily shares his recipe for acorn squash and sweet potato soup. The restaurant sources locally from Charlie’s Produce Company, which currently sends them squash from central Washington.

“When selecting squash, you want to make sure it is firm with no soft spots or cracks,” Koepsell advised. Squash can also make for festive decorations. “In my house, we decorate with squash for Thanksgiving and slowly eat our way through it over the next month or so,” he said.

Koepsell’s preparation includes cutting the squash in half, removing the seeds, drizzling the flesh with olive oil and kosher salt and roasting it skin-side-up at 375 degrees until it’s tender.

“Once cooked, take a spoon and scoop out the flesh and discard the skin,” he added. “From here, you can use what you need for now and freeze what you don’t need for a later date.”

In Bellevue, Clara Gutierrez Carroll, chef and owner of bustling Castilla Tapas Bar & Restaurant, sources squash from

ABOVE, FROM TOP From left, Anne Bailey-Freeman; her sister, Elizabeth; and dad, Don, run Bailey Farm. Bailey Farm is a 350-acre, fifth-generation farm in Snohomish.

Imperial Garden Farm in Wapato and Williams Farm in Walla Walla. She loves butternut squash for its sweet, nutty taste, similar to that of sweet potatoes. Because it’s so dense, she finds it delicious roasted over winter green salad. “I like to blanch the squash, peel and slice, place on an oven pan with a drizzle of olive oil, salt and black pepper,” she said. “Bake for twenty minutes at medium temperature, cool and place over winter greens salad with Belgian endives, radicchio, curly endives and dressed with tangy garlicky dressing (olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper).”

Jef Foster, executive chef of Eques at Hyatt Regency Bellevue, also finds winter squash to be a flavorful accompaniment to winter comfort dishes. “When selecting winter squash, it’s important to choose items with the tip still intact, not looking old and wrinkled, firm texture and vibrant in color,” he said. “Squash has many colors, but bright, vivid colors are important.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 21

farm to table

Washington Recipes

Elevate Your Winter Squash Squash Sacchetti with Sage Brown Butter, Hazelnut and Amaretti Carrello / SEATTLE Nathan Lockwood, executive chef and owner SERVES 10-15

FOR THE SAGE BROWN BUTTER • 3 sticks unsalted butter • 15 fresh sage leaves, stems reserved FOR THE GARNISH • Reserved fried sage leaves • Ricotta salata, crumbled • Hazelnuts, toasted and crushed • Crab apple mostardo • Amaretti cookies, crushed Note: The quantities provided will make about 150 filled ravioli.

Combine the flour and eggs and knead into a smooth dough. Wrap tightly in plastic film and allow to rest for 20 minutes.

Combine all ingredients for the filling in a large bowl and season aggressively. The black pepper, mustard and chili will balance the natural sweetness of the squash. Transfer to a piping bag and chill thoroughly.

Roll the pasta out, and fill and cut a pasta shape of your choice. Ravioli work well here, as do sacchetti, tortelloni or scarpinocc. The filled pasta can be stored in

After making the squash filling, fill your pasta and form into your preferred pasta shape.

the refrigerator for a couple hours or in the freezer well-wrapped for up to two weeks.

In a large pot, slowly melt the butter. In a separate large pot, place the reserved sage stems. Line a plate with paper towels.

When the melted butter foams and begins to sputter, add the sage leaves, increase the heat and stir gently until the leaves are crisp. Gently lift them out and drain on the paper towel-lined plate. Season the sage leaves with kosher salt while they are hot. Continue cooking the butter until the foam subsides and an even dark color has been achieved. Using a whisk, scrape up all the brown bits from the bottom and the sides of the pan and immediately pour the hot butter over the reserved sage stems in the second large pot. Allow to cool to room temperature, remove the sage stems and discard them.

Toast the hazelnuts in a single layer on a sheet pan in a 325-degree oven for 12 to 18 minutes or until evenly colored. Cool them to room temperature before gently crushing them with the bottom of a small bowl.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add your filled pasta to the boiling water and stir gently. The pasta will cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

22 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

In a large sauté pan, gently warm some sage brown butter. Stir in a small spoonful of apple mostardo, and add a pinch of chili flake if you wish.

Skim the pasta from the water, and carefully add the warm brown butter.

Stir to combine, and heat gently before dividing between warm bowls. Garnish as desired with reserved fried sage leaves, ricotta salata, toasted hazelnuts, crab apple mostardo and crushed amaretti cookies.

Carrello

FOR THE FILLING • 4 cups marina di chioggia squash, roasted, cleaned, mashed and cooled • 1½ cups fresh ricotta, well-drained • ½ cup Parmesan Reggiano, grated • 4 tablespoons amaretti cookies, crushed • Kosher salt, to taste • Fresh cracked black pepper, to taste • Hot Calabrian chili powder, to taste (can substitute with cayenne) • 11/2 tablespoons crab apple mostardo, minced

Carrello

FOR THE PASTA • 4 cups 00 pasta flour • 24 egg yolks, room temperature

Prepared Squash Sacchetti with Sage Brown Butter, Hazelnut and Amaretti.

Six Seven

farm to table

Tri-color Quinoa-Stuffed Winter Zucchini with Pattypan Squash and Baby Potato Ragout Eques Hyatt Regency Bellevue / BELLEVUE Executive chef Jef Foster SERVES 2 FOR THE WINTER SQUASH AND BABY POTATO RAGOUT • 6-8 baby potatoes • ½ medium onion, finely diced • 4-6 garlic cloves, finely diced • ½ cup white wine or other liquid for deglazing • 4-6 pattypan squash, cut in quarters • ½ teaspoon fresh chopped thyme • ½ teaspoon fresh chopped sage • 1 bay leaf • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon powder • 1 small can stewed tomatoes FOR THE STUFFED SQUASH • Green zucchini (or gold bar zucchini), cut in half with hollowed-out center • Tri-color quinoa, steamed • Olive oil • Salt and pepper • Micro-basil for plating garnish FOR THE PICKLED ONION AND RED PEPPER RELISH • 1 cup red wine vinegar • ½ cup sugar • 1/4 cup salt • 2 cups water • Any desired spices for infusing (examples: cinnamon stick, black peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, whole garlic, etc.)

• 1 red onion, julienned • 1 red bell pepper, julienned • Chives, chopped

thin amount off the bottom of each zucchini half to flatten so it will not roll over.) Steam quinoa using a 2-part-water-to-1-part-quinoa ratio for approximately 25 minutes or until tender, and let cool. Once quinoa is cooled, drizzle with olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Take the hollowed-out zucchini and stuff as much quinoa as desired in the center of each half. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. (Note: An air fryer can also be used, if desired.) Once oven is up to temp, place stuffed zucchini on sheet pan in oven and cook for 15 minutes (or until tender).

FOR THE PICKLED ONION AND RED PEPPER RELISH Place vinegar, sugar, salt, water and desired spices in saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer on low for 5 minutes to infuse. Take off flame and strain to remove spices. Pour the strained liquid over onion and peppers in a dish (should be enough liquid to cover).

Cover with plastic wrap, and place in refrigerator to cool. Once cooled, take the vegetables out of the pickling liquid. Medium chop the onion and peppers; add chopped chives.

TO SERVE Place desired amount of warm ragout on plate. Place stuffed zucchini on top of ragout. Garnish with pickled onion relish and micro-basil.

FOR THE WINTER SQUASH AND BABY POTATO RAGOUT Steam (or roast) potatoes for approximately 20 to 23 minutes (or until tender). Sauté onions and garlic until translucent. Deglaze with wine, and add pattypan squash. Add the herbs and cinnamon, pour in stewed tomatoes and simmer on low for 10 minutes.

Stir in cooked potatoes. Reserve warm ragout sauce.

FOR THE STUFFED SQUASH Cut zucchini in half, scoop out center and discard trimmings. (Tip: Cut a very

Tri-color Quinoa-Stuffed Winter Zucchini with Pattypan Squash and Baby Potato Ragout. (photo: Eques)

Six Seven’s Acorn Squash and Sweet Potato Soup.

Acorn Squash and Sweet Potato Soup

Six Seven at The Edgewater Hotel / SEATTLE Sous chef Eric Koepsell SERVES 4 • 1 sweet potato (about 12 ounces) • 1 acorn squash • 4 shallots • 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled • 3½ cups vegetable stock • ½ cup light cream • Olive oil to drizzle Cut the sweet potato, squash and shallots in half lengthwise. Remove seeds from squash. Drizzle cut sides with oil. Put vegetables cut-side down in a shallow roasting pan, and add garlic.

Roast in a 375-degree oven for about 40 minutes until tender.

When cool, scoop the flesh of the squash and potato into a saucepan with the shallots. Remove the garlic peels, and add to the pot. Add the vegetable stock and a pinch of salt.

Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer partially covered for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Allow the soup to cool slightly, strain off some of the cooking liquid and reserve before blending. Return the soup to the saucepan, and stir in the cream.

Season to taste, then simmer for 5 to 10 minutes until heated through. Serve in a warm soup bowl.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 23

home + design

Jay and Debra Barnett’s home, high up in a neighborhood on Squalicum Mountain and ten minutes from downtown Bellingham, captures the view— and the mood—perfectly.

Such was the couple’s wish: “Not a moody house,” said Debra.

“But a house with mood and character.”

24

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

home + design

Natural Harmony A custom house lets a Bellingham couple tune into nature, as well as their favorite pastimes written by Melissa Dalton photography by Jeremy Bittermann/JBSA

There are locations, then there are locations like the Barnett home on Squalicum Mountain in Bellingham.

ON THIS DECEMBER morning in Bellingham, the surface of Lake Whatcom looks like matte stainless steel, the color only slightly darker than the milky gray expanse of sky above. Wispy clouds are draped along the evergreen treetops. Errant raindrops scatter on bursts of wind. Jay and Debra Barnett’s home, high up in a neighborhood on Squalicum Mountain and ten minutes from downtown, captures the view—and the mood—perfectly. Such was the couple’s wish: “Not a moody house,” said Debra. “But a house with mood and character.”

Previously, the couple had lived and worked in Portland, Oregon, since 2006. In 2017, their recruitment platform business, called Decision Toolbox, was acquired, kicking off the next phase of their life plan: to buy some acreage and build a house. As longtime architecture lovers, the idea appealed because they’d built a custom house in Topanga Canyon in 1989, and it had been a fulfilling experience. They started scouting buildable Portland-area lots that were two acres or bigger, and signed on with architect Risa Boyer, founder of Risa Boyer Architecture.

But they weren’t finding much until they decided to expand their search farther north to Bellingham, which appealed for its smaller size and slower pace. “I had been here in my early twenties, and the energy was incredible,” said Debra. On a weekend revisiting the city, the couple toured sixteen lots in two days, and the one on Squalicum Mountain stood out: a remote twenty acres high up on the ridge with far-reaching lake views and no neighbors in sight.

The couple brought Boyer to see it while the sale was finalizing. “There were 50-mile-an-hour wind gusts—we had to plant our feet sideways to not get blown back,” said Jay. “It was crazy weather, which made it all the more exciting. We thought, ‘This is going to be great.’” Boyer was equally impressed with the spot, which even had a clearing between the trees to site the house for the best views.

“It was like, ‘Aha,’” said Boyer. “This is where the house is going, obviously.”

The finished home follows the lay of the land, arrayed in a single level for ease of aging in place, and topped with a slightly canted standing seam metal roof, kinked at one end to cover an open carport and art studio for Debra, who’s a metalsmith and photographer. “We looked at a bunch of FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 25

home + design

different roof lines for the house,” said Boyer. “It really felt like it needed to be a simple shed roof opening up toward the view.

With the kink, it looks like it’s going to take flight over the ridge, like a bird.”

Now, the southeast-facing wall has large expanses of glass overlooking the lake, while a ribbon of high clerestories on the opposite wall frame the leafy boughs of the encroaching forest.

The main living areas are combined at the center of the plan, anchored by a massive board-formed concrete fireplace. From there, a long hallway lined in custom white oak storage defines the bedroom wing.

At the end of the hall is the primary suite, where both bedroom and bathroom open up to a private patio and outdoor shower. For the two other bedrooms, one is for guests, and one sound-dampened for Jay’s music practice. “I have a love/hate relationship with learning to play jazz guitar,” said Jay. “I love it, but 26 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

it’s really hard.” At the other end of the home, the open carport between Debra’s studio and the main house enables her to use the covered outdoor space for artmaking and entertaining.

Construction, led by local contractor Indigo Enterprises Northwest, wrapped in November 2020, and wasn’t without its challenges. Because of the underlying bedrock, “there was no option to drill for a well,” said Boyer. “So, we had to do rainwater catchment.” That system collects and cleanses all the domestic water for the property, up to 60,000 gallons a year, and is joined by a hydronic radiant heat system under the concrete slab for heating, while deep overhangs and window placement enable passive cooling in summer months.

Working with the couple’s objective to capture mood, Boyer balanced crisp lines with strategic texture in the material choices. “It was really about the quality of light and the textures and selectively using richer materials,” Boyer said. To that end, the

home + design

The Barnett home sits above Lake Whatcom on Squalicum Mountain.

AT RIGHT, FROM TOP The living space opens to a glass wall with views of Lake Whatcom. An open carport helps maintain uninterrupted views.

The simple and sleek kitchen features cedar for a warming touch. The bathroom has a sunken soaking tub with unparalleled views.

concrete flooring throughout was given a darker tint, “so it has a nice, weighted feel to it,” said Boyer, while clear cedar wood was applied to the ceilings for warmth. In the kitchen, a rich soapstone slab covers the central island, with stainless steel on the perimeter counters, backsplash, and given a brushed finish to form the sizable hood vent.

From morning to night, it’s such custom touches sprinkled throughout the home that shape the couple’s daily rhythms, whether standing at the side-by-side kitchen cooktops—he prefers induction while she likes gas—or using the primary bathroom’s sunken tub for a nightly foot soak. All the better to appreciate life outside. “Every day is different here,” Debra said.

From December’s grays, to the times when rainbows sprout over the lake below and the clouds take the shape of marshmallows, the house lets the couple track the progress of nature’s many moods.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 27

home + design

DIY

Plumber Pipe Firewood Storage

18”or 24” 12”

A NOTE ABOUT SIZE AND PIPE TYPE The final dimensions of this piece can vary, depending on your storage needs and space requirements.

Just make sure all pipe and fittings have a ¾-inch diameter so they will fit together. There are two types of pipe connectors used for this project: 90-degree elbows and tee junctions. (The latter are—you guessed it—shaped like a T and have three openings.)

We recommend black steel plumber’s pipe for a modern look.

However, adding color with spray paint at the end could also be fun.

1 START WITH THE FEET This project is composed of two

28

10”or 12”

24”

12”

4”

a 12-inch pipe, then an elbow. This completes the vertical supports, from flange to elbow.

tall rectangles connected on the sides by short lengths of horizontal pipe in four locations. The bottom of each rectangle will connect to two feet, each made of a ¾-inch flange. Start by threading a 4-inch length of pipe to each flange.

2

ADD THE VERTICAL SUPPORTS Add a tee fitting to each leg, then a 12-inch piece of pipe, followed by another tee fitting. The bottom tees will form the base, while the middle tees will connect the two sides together and provide structural support. Thread in a 24-inch length of pipe, or choose a different length depending on desired height, followed by the last tee fitting at the top. Finish each rectangle leg with

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

FINISH WITH THE HORIZONTAL SUPPORTS Complete each rectangle side by adding a horizontal length of pipe, either 18 or 24 inches wide, at the bottom tee junction and at the top elbow. Finish by connecting the two sides together, using four pieces of 10- or 12-inch lengths of pipe at the remaining tee junctions.

4

DEGREASE Wipe down the entire piece with Windex or multipurpose cleaner to degrease. Consider spray painting for a hit of color.

Illustration: Allison Bye

STANDARD FIREWOOD STORAGE pieces are often made of welded metal, which is not a beginner’s DIY skill. Enter steel plumber’s pipe to the rescue! This type of pipe was traditionally used in older homes and has since been replaced in newer construction with other pipe types such as PEX and PVC, but it’s still available to purchase at many big box stores. Steel plumber’s pipe comes in a variety of lengths, is threaded at both ends and can be attached using different fittings, making it a dream material for creative DIY-ers.

This project involves using standard plumbing pipe to create an open and industrial firewood storage holder, good-looking enough to sit inside by the fireplace, and durable enough to be moved outdoors. It might actually take longer to buy the parts than to put this together! Although, hands will get a little greasy in the process, due to how the pipe is finished.

home + design

Bellingham Goods One can never have too many handmade mugs. That may not be an actual thing people say, but you will, as soon as you step inside Good Earth Pottery, located in the Morgan Block Building in the historic village of Fairhaven. The contemporary ceramics gallery has been a local institution since 1969, now showcasing the work of PNW artists, forty of which are within a 100-mile radius of Bellingham.

Of course, that means there’s much more than just mugs, including lighting, sculpture, dishware, jewelry, vases and this utensil holder made by owner Ann Marie Cooper. www.goodearthpots.com

Ideal has been a staple of Bellingham since 2008, always with the mission to further good design via unique, authentic pieces, making it worth a Saturday stroll. Feel free to pick up some of these colorful coasters while there. Called bierfilzl, meaning “beer felt” in German, they are made of 100 percent merino wool felt, come in a variety of hues and, since they repel water and keep surfaces dry, can stand up to many a dripping pint glass. www.anidealshop.com

Now for some ambience, courtesy of Eleventh St. GOODS, a clothing and lifestyle store with a curated selection of items for the home. Start with these sculptural candles, available in two sizes and three colors, which even look artful when unlit. www.eleventhstgoods.com

As its name implies, Greenhouse started as a plant shop in 1972 in downtown Bellingham and has since become a destination store for all sorts of unique home decor goods, like this three-dimensional nautical map of the San Juan Islands. It’s compiled from laser-cut natural Baltic birch wood layered to reveal the topographic features in relief. Framed in solid wood, it’s ready to hang. www.greenhousehome.com FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

29

mind + body BMX racer Sean Day, 16, keeps a rigorous workout schedule of six days a week.

Tacoma’s BMX Phenom

Since the training wheels came off, Sean Day has been a top BMX racer written by Lauren Kramer | photography by Jim Meyers

IN THE SPORT of BMX racing, Tacoma native Sean Day, 16, is taking the world by storm. He holds numerous Northwest Regional Gold Cup titles, Washington State No. 1 titles, National Age Group No. 1 titles and two World No. 1 titles at the UCI World BMX Championships for 2021 in France and 2022 in Scotland. Given that he began racing just eight years ago, he’s only at the start of his career.

As a kid, Day loved riding anything with two wheels, and would ride up and down his street any opportunity he had. When he was 3 years old, an annoyed neighbor removed the training wheels from his bike to reduce the noise, and as he got his balance, the toddler graduated to doing small jumps on a pad of concrete at the end of his road. At 6, he wondered out loud to his mom, Lisa, if it was possible to race his bike. Lisa found a track, River Valley BMX in Sumner, and took him there to try it out.

30

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Find your center

As the wonders of winter fade and splendor of spring begins to take bloom, a change of scenery may be just the thing you need. And with direct flights from Seattle to Central Oregon, making that happen has never been easier.

To learn more, go to visitcentraloregon.com.

mind + body

It was October 2013, and though the plan was to just check out the race track, Day ended up competing that day—and winning a large trophy to boot. Lisa said that first race hooked him on the sport.

“BMX racing was a natural talent for Sean. As time progressed, everyone remarked that he moved so smoothly on his bike, with a natural fluidity that made it look effortless.”

After that first race, Day’s trajectory from novice to expert level took just six months. Initially he competed in BMX Canada national events but later moved on to USA BMX national events across the United States.

Depending on the track length, it takes between 22 and 45 seconds to complete a lap on a BMX track, but the short route is riddled with obstacles that riders need to traverse. It’s a challenging sport, Day admitted. “I work out six days a week, every week of the year, and it takes a lot of hard work and determination to get to the top,” he said. “Once you get there, you have a huge target on your back, because everyone wants to beat you.”

Day started junior high school remotely toward the end of seventh grade, when the pandemic began, and by ninth grade was fully enrolled in online school. Now a junior in high school, he does his BMX training in Florida in the winter months, gearing up for the USA BMX Grand National Competition, which is held in Tulsa, Oklahoma, every Thanksgiving weekend.

These days, he competes in up to twenty national race weekends a year, and speed is everything, he said. “At the top level, we do nothing but go over obstacles as fast as possible to get to the finish line first. The

obstacles are formed dirt to make tabletops, doubles, triples and quads, and each competition is a very quick 45-second lap.”

While the top amateur BMX racers don’t earn money at the national events, there are prizes to be won at many of the Professional-Amateur events, held at local tracks throughout the country. Day has walked away with top prizes at many of these events, and his talent has also attracted sponsorship opportunities that cover his travel, bikes and training.

The travel opportunities as a top BMX racer have been among the highlights of his career to date, Day said. “I’ve been to more places than most people my age, just because I can ride on two wheels and compete on such a high level,” he noted. “I love going out of the country, seeing new places and meeting up with my teammates.”

Day’s team, called Factory Full Tilt, is known for its many victories and for having some of the best riders in the sport. In his free time, Day offers training and clinics to other riders and helps them improve their skills.

“He’s become a role model for other youth in the sport, and I love seeing him give back to the community,” Lisa said.

“We were blessed at the amount of financial support Sean received, and for the many positive role models that have nurtured him on this journey. It’s great to see him now helping others.”

BMX racing has changed his life completely, she added. “He was shy as a youngster, and racing has helped him communicate more freely and openly. I’m proud of his dedication, commitment and his talent, and I’m happy to let him pursue it.”

“I work out six days a week, every week of the year, and it takes a lot of hard work and determination to get to the top. Once you get there, you have a huge target on your back, because everyone wants to beat you.”

— Sean Day 32

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Sean Day BMX Racing Cyclist

Age: 16 Born: Seattle Lives: Tacoma

WORKOUT Day works out six days a week: four days in the gym for up to two hours, and twice a week sprints on his bike for 90 minutes. On track days, he spends up to three hours on the track.

NUTRITION Day doesn’t actively follow a nutritional plan. “I eat whatever I want, but because I’m so active I burn everything off the same day!” he said.

INSPIRATION “My inspiration is Niek Kimmann, a Dutch BMX racing cyclist. He’s the reigning Olympic champion in BMX racing, a three-time world champion and one-time European champion, to name just a few of his achievements. When he was my age, he won the junior men’s title, and at 17 he won the elite men’s class.

I’d like to accomplish what he did.”

mind + body

Sean Day rides around a corner at the SeaTac BMX race track in SeaTac.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

33

artist in residence

Place, Community, Art

Launched in August, the Noisy Waters Mural Festival is just one of the projects looking to transform Bellingham’s waterfront.

A community-driven transformation is taking place on Bellingham’s waterfront

Paper Whale

written by Ellen Hiatt

34

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

ARISTOTLE OPINED that “Nature abhors a vacuum.” It will always be filled with something, and in the case of a defunct paper mill in Bellingham, for a time it was filled with vandalism and graffiti. Bellingham artists and activists put their heads together to fill that vacuum with community.

Words that muralist Gretchen Leggitt and community organizer Nick Hartrich bandy about include “activate,” “catalyze,” “community” and “action.”

It began when Hartrich convinced Puget Sound Energy to save nearly a half million dollars they were spending a year on cleaning up graffiti and vandalism by commissioning Leggitt to paint the state’s largest mural on 21,000 square feet of corrugated metal.

The two formed Paper Whale, a social purpose venture whose mission is to “cultivate community in an evolving program of multi-sensory events to inspire and creatively activate placemaking.”

At its core is a speaker series that is run like a “TED Talk meets a think tank.” The community brainstorms ideas at these events, in such high demand that there is a waiting list to attend. Paper Whale narrowed down thirty-five ideas to eight before taking them to the Port of Bellingham, which chose four of them.

The first to be implemented was the Noisy Waters Mural Festival, held last August. More than 135 artists from Hawaii to Calgary applied to be part of it, and eight were chosen, with eleven runners up.

The property is an expanse of gravel before imposing brick buildings, and space-age looking tanks that once held liquor (a solution of sodium sulfide and sodium hydroxide) to digest wood chips into pulp. Some of the industrial tanks are shaped like a massive globe and others like rockets waiting to be shot into space. Most are bare metal, rusty and hulking in the foreground. A couple are covered in tiles.

The expanse of brick walls and hulking sea containers that dot the area presented as an invitation to bored youth with a can of spray paint in hand.

As it goes, graffiti will have more graffiti. But a vibrant work of art invites conversation, energy and ideas. The void will be filled one way or another.

“Quite frankly, you’re going to make this Bellingham,” said Ken Bell, the Port Commission’s secretary. He lauded Paper Whale’s founders for their ability to take “a bunch of ideas floating around a room” and “actually getting it done.”

“It was intended to be a temporary solution for the waterfront … and it’s not going to go away,” he said. “What a great legacy to leave behind.”

Paper Whale

Paper Whale

iStock.com/SEASTOCK

artist in residence

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Bellingham’s industrial waterfront. Native artists collaborated to produce the 150-foot Indigiversal Collective mural during August’s Noisy Waters Mural Festival. Artist and Paper Whale co-founder Gretchen Leggitt leads a bike tour of murals around Bellingham during the Noisy Waters Mural Festival.

The Noisy Waters Mural Festival was the first of the four ideas to be implemented. As with all the ideas, Leggitt puts a great deal of focus on providing opportunities for artists—artists who may not have seen a future or a path in art. Eight artists may have been chosen to create the murals, but another eleven were chosen to create a group mural project of their own.

And of those, a vote of the people chose three to earn a paycheck for walls that Paper Whale brokered over $22,500 in commissions.

Local artist Taj Williams was invited to give a spray painting workshop. The four workshops he gave were packed with would-be artists of all ages, from 10 to 60.

“He’s now totally driven to teach art,” she said.

“The most exciting part of the festival is the Indigiversal Collective,” a collection of artists from seven different tribes who collaborated on a 150-foot mural.

Added Hartrich when speaking to the commission, “The goal is to expand on the diversity of that art.”

The group is implementing their second project this January.

The waterfront isn’t a very active place in the winter months.

Cold and dreary, it seems as if it’s lying in wait for the local

brewers to show up for another rousing summer arts festival.

But Hartrich and Leggitt, and the community behind them, have other ideas.

Fire & Story will see the fabrication of large fire pits, installed and holding a warming fire by which storytellers, folk singers, indigenous members and others will share history, heritage and lore.

An additional proposed project could include curating a placement of wood-fired saunas for the “Sauna Portal.” “(We) feel a need and a void for the community to gather in these winter months,” said Hartrich.

A “Confluent Native Garden” will create an artistically designed community space that mimics the confluence of the mud flats on which the paper mill was built.

Hartrich explained that they were connecting community, creating experiences and “syncing cultural identities,” supporting the port through the lens of the community.

“Whatever recipe we are making, the people continue to show up,” he said.

Added Leggitt: “When people are inspired, they take action.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

35

James Harnois

STARTUP 38 MY WORKSPACE 40 GAME CHANGER 42

pg. 40 Seattle’s MoPOP has a new director who’s bringing it in a new and exciting way.

MOUNTAIN & FOREST TO SHORE

road trip nirvana.

WELCOME TO THE WILD SIDE OF WASHINGTON. Embark on the ultimate road trip and find adventure on Hood Canal, Design a year round itinerary or get inspiration from our trip plans at explorehoodcanal.com.

ARE YOU READY?

FREE: Request Craig Romano Hikes Booklet or our Adventure Guide!

startup

The Color of Confidence How the founders of cosmetic brand Vermouth are working to empower an overlooked demographic written by Rachel Gallaher

MANY WOMEN have a memory tied to lipstick.

Whether a grandmother who never left the house without a swipe of bright red or an allowance-funded drugstore purchase in wacky shades like purple or orange (and the ensuing fights with Mom about wearing makeup), these memories tend to hold a strong emotional pull. For the founders of Vermouth—a brand of natural, plant-based lip crayons—tapping into these moments was a core part of their foundation. The idea for the company, officially launched in 2020, came about after a group of women working in the tech, design and cosmetic industries went out one night for a casual glass of, well, vermouth.

38

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

“We were having a conversation about lipstick,” said Jill Jago, Vermouth’s chief marketing and sustainability officer, who runs the company with Meg Diaz (CEO and chief product officer) and with support from consulting founder Misia Tramp, two fellow Seattle moms who had struggled for years to find a lipstick that was easy to use, had a great color payoff and didn’t negatively impact the environment. “Traditional lipsticks are so wasteful,” Jago explained. “There is always a plastic case that you can’t recycle, and half the time, the tube ends up in the back of a drawer unused and forgotten.”

They started to talk about why women wear lipstick, how it makes them feel and what they would change about the packaging, composition and target demographic. “We just kept texting each other until 2 a.m. that night,” Jago recalled.

Walk into a department or drug store, and you encounter racks and racks of cosmetics—hundreds of plastic tubes in neon and candy colors that appeal to a younger audience: mainly teenagers and women in their 20s and 30s. The Vermouth founders—successful career women who had raised children and juggled jobs, hobbies and families—wanted to cater to others in their shoes and closer to their ages.

“A lot of beauty marketing sends the message that women have to ‘fix’ themselves,” said Diaz, who is the brains behind Vermouth’s lip crayon formulas, colors and distinctive paper tubes, the latter of which is based on the design on the Renaissance art tools she used as a Watson Fellow. During the yearlong program, she served as a fresco apprentice in Italy and conducted research at the British Library and Courtauld Institute. Vermouth launched with five colors (one named for each weekday) in an easy-to-carry, recyclable, rectangular box. “We like to think of Vermouth as a capsule lipstick wardrobe,” Diaz continued. “They are good on their own, but if you blend them, it’s like a secret weapon—you can create a unique color.”

The lip color “flights” are made from natural ingredients such as cocoa butter, shea butter and beeswax, and the packaging is highly sustainable, made from recycled, recyclable and compostable components. Since its launch, the company has released six color collections, including a special-edition Pride flight.

But starting the business hasn’t just been about playing with makeup. After a debut that coincided with the COVID-19 pandemic, Vermouth sustained another blow when the financial institution they worked with, Silicon Valley Bank, collapsed in March 2023. According to Jago and Diaz, they weathered the storm and are seeing an uptick in website visits and purchases.

Photos: Vermouth

startup

From left, Meg Diaz, Vermouth’s CEO and chief product officer, and Jill Jago, chief marketing and sustainability officer.

“We’re still fundraising, and we have a long haul,” Diaz said, “but sales in the past seven weeks have exceeded those from our first eight months.”

“We founded a sustainable consumer goods company in a tech city—and we’re women!” Jago said, noting that it’s been an uphill battle in an economy where everyone is looking for the next white whale of technology, a sector that favors male founders. But Vermouth has proved to be nimble, and the local community of female entrepreneurs invaluable. The brand headquarters is in its own space in Pioneer Square, but before that, local clothing rental company Armoire provided workspace and networking opportunities. “The generosity of other women has been beautiful,” Diaz said.

It’s that spirit of generosity—and celebration of women—that underpins the company. At the end of November, Vermouth partnered with local fashion brand Prairie Underground to release a special-edition, three-tube flight to match new offerings from the clothing company.

“We’ve noticed that our customers are skewing between ages 45 and 54,” said Diaz. “Not to say that we aren’t appealing to younger women, but these women have been hesitant and non-lipstick users who felt overlooked by the traditional beauty industry. We want to give them the power to feel good about themselves. We’re creating a space where they feel they can have their lipstick back.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

39

my workspace

Michele Y. Smith describes pop culture as “a universal language, emphasizing its multi-generational and global appeal.” While working as the chief business and financial officer of the Woodland Park Zoo, Smith was tapped to elevate the importance and influence of pop culture by assuming leadership of Seattle’s Museum of Pop Culture.

When planning exhibits, Smith holds steadfast to values that reflect diversity, inclusiveness and accessibility.

“Our exhibits are meant to be immersive and not indicative of a sterile, white-walled museum,” she said. “Pop culture at its core is world-building and is very much a mirror to what is happening in our societies at large.”

Pop and Circumstances Museum of Pop Culture’s new leadership seeks deeper conversations through exhibits written by Joni Kabana photography by James Harnois 40

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Museum of Pop Culture CEO Michele Y. Smith at the museum in Seattle. The museum is also home to Trimpin’s IF VI WAS IX sculpture, a tornado-shaped mass of guitars and other instruments.

my workspace

Smith’s short-term goals are to continue to host exhibitions and public programming designed to resonate with the community’s interests and concerns, deepening a connection with visitors. Longer-term goals are to become a driving force and educational hub for elevating pop culture narratives, recognizing them as a source of cultural exploration worthy of scholarly study and cultural value.

MoPOP showcases items from all areas of pop culture, including film, fashion, gaming and music.

The Museum of Pop Culture was originally founded by Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen in 2000 as the Experience Music Project collecting artifacts surrounding music in the early ’70s. The collection now incorporates items from all areas of pop culture including film, fashion, gaming and music. Smith’s programming repertoire invites local communities to be even more engaged with the museum on a regular basis, offering more exhibits that go beyond entertainment. “I want to host exhibits that are a catalyst for sparking conversations and driving social progress.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

41

Model Home Camp Hope is dismantling barriers to housing in Yakima County and beyond written by Daniel O’Neil THE HOMELESSNESS CRISIS affects more than just big cities. By 2017, even Yakima was experiencing the issue first-hand.

Rather than wait for authorities to take action, a group purchased three standing tents and four portable restrooms, and founded Camp Hope. The city said it would be happy with thirty beds filled. Camp Hope welcomed fifty-four people, and they’ve never had less.

A variety of individuals come to Camp Hope for help: families with children, single adults, veterans, domestic violence victims, young adults ages 18 to 24 and people escaping human trafficking. Besides providing meals, laundry, showers and restrooms, Camp Hope seeks to rehabilitate people.

“We want to teach people to be sustainable and thrive while they’re in the shelter,” said Mike Kay, director of Camp Hope.

“So when we do get them into housing, they’re not part of the 42 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

recidivism where they’re coming back because they didn’t have the proper skill set to keep going.” Lately, Camp Hope has operated near its current capacity of 250 people, and it helped about 1,300 individuals in 2023.

One key to Camp Hope’s success is the low-barrier format. Behavioral issues, drugs and alcohol, and criminal histories generally prohibit people from remaining in a standard shelter, but Camp Hope found a way around that. No personal identification is required to get in, operating twenty-four hours a day. People can be intoxicated or even be using controlled substances, but they can’t consume on the property. Pets, from dogs and cats to parrots and ferrets, are allowed, too. Crime rates, Kay said, are minimal.

With rehabilitation as its guiding principle, Camp Hope has teamed with Comprehensive Healthcare, a nonprofit that focuses on mental health and substance use disorder treatment.

Comprehensive Healthcare provides a dedicated case manager on the Camp Hope campus, and is building a new on-site behavioral health service center and transitional housing there.

This addition will include classrooms, medical facilities and a home economics-style kitchen, and it will provide outpatient behavioral health services and immediate coordination and referral of health care needs.

“The concept ensures that individuals will receive access to the care they deserve and increases their overall health and well-being,” said Jodi Daly, Ph.D., president and CEO of Comprehensive Healthcare. “Our partnership enhances the chances that individuals will lead healthier lives, and our hope is to impact the community as well by decreasing emergency room visits, lowering the number of jail days and crime, and increasing employment rates. This partnership impacts the social, economic and health status of those we serve, as well as the community we enjoy.”

The Camp Hope model is scalable to smaller and larger communities, Kay said. It is also sustainable and cost-effective, especially compared to housing the homeless in apartments and retrofitted motels. “We’re trying to help other communities understand that you don’t need a $50 million budget to address homelessness,” Kay said. “You can do it with $400,000. Nobody has to be the size we are, either. We didn’t start out this size.”

Cities such as Portland, Sacramento and Detroit have visited Camp Hope to consider that model of approaching the challenges of homelessness. Camp Hope is now working with Pacific County in southwest Washington as that community develops a response to a growing need.

“We have to stay humble enough to realize that the reason we’re having a homelessness crisis is because some have created a model, and they’re trying to make an individual fit into their model instead of trying to adapt the model to have the flexibility to meet that individual’s needs,” Kay said. “We really want to see these people get their lives back. We’re trying to teach them to fish instead of just giving them fish.”

MORE ONLINE

To learn more or contribute, visit www.camphopeyakima.com/donate

Photo illustration: Allison Bye; photos: Bigstock

game changer

5th ual n An

March 1 & 2, 2024 Celebrate the Sunshine in Our Hearts!

Join us for a weekend of family fun at the Sequim Sunshine Festival where we will shake off the winter blues and celebrate the coming of the spring and summer seasons in Sunny Sequim.

sequimsunshinefestival.com 1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com

Brooke Fitts

Seattle’s Kamp Social House offers a variety of nonalcoholic options, including an NA French 75.

44 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Mindful Drinking Goes MAINSTREAM The sobercurious revolution is redefining our relationship with alcohol written by Ryn Pfeuffer photography by Jackie Dodd, Brooke Fitts & Bill Purcell

INDULGING IN SEATTLE’S vibrant scene was once synonymous with clinking pints, shots or cocktails, but times are changing. Whether you’re toasting for a night or embracing a lifestyle shift, the Emerald City offers an array of options to support sobriety. Nonalcoholic trends are on the ascent, mirroring a shift in social dynamics. The rise of the “sober-curious” movement, where folks actively explore reduced alcohol or teetotalism, is evident. Gen Zers spearhead this evolution, steering the conversation from cocktails to mocktails, as highlighted in the 2023 NCSolutions Consumer Sentiment Survey of 1,000 Americans. The embrace of this movement is palpable—25 percent of Americans are tuned into the sober curious wave.

This surge in interest is more than a passing trend. This is a seismic cultural shift reflected in the staggering sales figures of nonalcoholic drinks, totaling $395 million with a remarkable year-on-year growth of 20.6 percent from August 2021 to 2022, as reported by NielsenIQ. This shift isn’t a fleeting moment confined to Dry January. It’s a movement gaining momentum across age groups.

The motivations for this shift are manifold, from saving calories and money to improving sleep, skin and overall well-being—plus, the blissful joy of waking up hangover free on weekends.

Seattle isn’t just embracing sobriety—it’s championing a culture that welcomes a mindful approach to drinking, one sip at a time.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 45

Life on Mars is a plant-based bar packed with vinyl and a cocktail menu that features low- and no-alcohol options.

46

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Photos: Jackie Dodd

“More and more bars and restaurants have started to include NA choices in their menus as a matter of practice but to varying degrees of competence. The ones I end up enjoying most are those that are inclusive of NA selections within their cocktail menus, not an afterthought of teas and sodas.”

— JESS BUERKLE, West Seattle non-drinker

ABOVE, AT LEFT At just 0.03 percent ABV, the Birds of Paradise cocktail at Life on Mars packs a tiki punch with Caleño nonalcoholic rum, Giffard nonalcoholic aperitif and a house-made pineapple shrub.

ABOVE Life On Mars bar manager Veronica Bardue pours a drink.

Thirsting For Excellence IN FEBRUARY 2023, Jess Buerkle from West Seattle decided to abstain from alcohol due to declining enjoyment and concerning health indicators, marking a turning point in her prioritization of self-care. “More and more bars and restaurants have started to include NA choices in their menus as a matter of practice but to varying degrees of competence,” she said. “The ones I end up enjoying most are those that are inclusive of NA selections within their cocktail menus, not an afterthought of teas and sodas.”

Right now, Buerkle is most excited about the NA beverage programs at Life On Mars and Kamp Social House.

“Life on Mars is a vinyl bar with excellent vibes and a vegan menu. Its cocktail menu is grouped by flavor profiles, and every section includes a low- or no-ABV (alcohol by volume) option,” said Buerkle. There, she enjoys the Birds of Paradise. “This hits just like a classic tiki drink, and I’m a sucker for a shrub of any kind.” The base of this drink is a pineapple shrub.

Another local bar and restaurant Buerkle loves is Kamp.

“It’s a lesbian-owned neighborhood gem with robust dedicated low- and no-ABV sections on their menu,” she said. The NA French 75 at Kamp really blew Buerkle away.

“It tastes just like the original, made with NA alternatives,” she said.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Mixing Magic Kamp Social House Elevates NA Beverage Appeal

MARCEIL VAN CAMP, co-owner of Kamp Social House in Seattle’s Madison Park neighborhood, understands how challenging it can be to find a place with excellent NA options, especially paired with great food and ambience.

(Van Camp co-owns Kamp alongside her life and business partner, Katy Knauff, a seasoned restaurateur. The name “Kamp” is a fusion of Katy and Marceil’s Place, symbolizing their collaboration.)

Van Camp embarked on a yearlong alcohol hiatus to immerse herself in the NA scene. She aimed to authentically understand the preferences and requirements of non-drinkers, ensuring that Kamp’s alcohol-free menu truly resonated with them. She delved into their world to grasp a crucial aspect—the emergence of entirely novel NA spirits. Rather than mimicking alcoholic beverages such as gin or rum, she highlights that many NA spirits are innovative concepts distinctly crafted without alcohol. “This means you can get super creative with flavor pairing versus just trying to copy a boozy cocktail,” she said. “That said, we do have a few replica-type cocktails on our menu, like the NA French 75.

What’s important to note when making an NA cocktail is that the mouthfeel will likely be different than what you are used to. So, we layer in complex acids to make the cocktail come together smoothly.”

Since Kamp opened its doors in 2022, the enthusiastic response from individuals seeking nonalcoholic options has been truly remarkable. “It’s satisfying to witness the joy of non-drinkers when they discover the dedicated unboozy section on our signature cocktail menu,” said Van Camp.

She mentioned a circle of single friends who consider

48 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Kamp their go-to spot for first dates, valuing the safety of an alcohol-free environment. They also don’t necessarily want to make it a “first-date topic.” So, they order a drink, she said, and their date is none the wiser about its ABV. Kamp has also been the gathering place for numerous sober anniversaries, often attended by a mix of both drinkers and non-drinkers. Notably, it’s a popular spot among several celebrities. Van Camp expressed the joy of listening to their varied narratives, from triumphs over addiction to quests for better skin health, driving their motivation to embrace a lifestyle change. “Additionally, it’s an enjoyable opportunity to educate curious individuals about NA spirits, wine and beer, dispelling misconceptions about ‘mocktails,’” she said.

“The enthusiasm from those driven by sober curiosity adds an extra layer of enjoyment to the whole experience.”

For savvy restaurateurs, Van Camp notes that the emergence of nonalcoholic beverage programs opens up fresh revenue streams for those who recognize the demand from non-drinkers. “These additional income sources translate to increased hiring and purchasing capacity, providing more chances for small businesses to expand and uplift their communities,” she said. “When restaurants seamlessly incorporate alternatives into their standard operations, it enhances the overall dining experience within a community. Or, as we say at Kamp, ‘More is more!’”

Van Camp dreams of a world where terms like “mocktail” and “virgin” cocktails become obsolete. “These terms undermine the essence of the NA category, which is a new category based on the idea that people desire more options, and they want those options to be excellent,” she said.

Brooke Fitts

Life and business partners Marceil Van Camp (left) and Katy Knauff launched Kamp Social House in 2022.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 49

After opting to pursue a healthier lifestyle, Yura (left) and Kirstin Vracko noticed a gap in the market for elevated NA options, and the two opened Cheeky & Dry, a nonalcoholic bottle shop.

Photos: Bill Purcell

An NA Retail Paradise MEET KIRSTIN and Yura Vracko, the dynamic duo behind

Cheeky & Dry, a haven for sophisticated nonalcoholic beverages. Their journey started when they decided to ditch the cocktails for a healthier lifestyle. “We love the after-work ritual and into the evening cocktails, but the toll it was taking on our bodies and our relationship was not sustainable,” Kirstin shared. Recognizing a gap in the market for elevated booze-free options, Kirstin delved deep into research and development. “We want to support a community of mindfulness and provide products that promote that.”

The reception? Overwhelmingly positive. The outpouring of gratitude has been immense, with constant heartfelt “Thank you so much for opening your shop” messages.

“Being part of such a health-conscious community has been an absolute blessing for mind and body,” Kirstin shared. At Cheeky & Dry, it’s about celebrating wellness without compromising taste or experience.

Curious about their top sellers? Think Drømme, Tenneyson, Roots Divino, RSRV Collective, Pentire, Wilderton and The Pathfinder—a lineup designed to charm even the most discerning palate.

“We would love to see the world of NA beverages evolve to be even more sophisticated and embraced in the cocktail industry,” she said. “These products are complex and beautiful and deserve to be on bar menus as much as alcoholic cocktails.”

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

ABOVE, FROM TOP The Cheeky & Dry storefront in Seattle. A shopper peruses shelves of nonalcoholic options at Cheeky & Dry.

Terroir-Driven Excellence Redefines NA Wine

Photos: BuzzCutt

Wild AF

HOLD THOSE thoughts of stowing away your wine glasses just yet. There’s a trend making waves in the world of libations—the realm of NA wine. Enter Stephen Mull, the self-proclaimed wine geek on a mission to craft a terroir-driven, alcohol-free wine experience. His brainchild, Wild AF, isn’t your typical juice; it’s pure wine sans the alcohol—no added sugars, just naturally low in calories.

Wild AF currently features two offerings: a sparkling rosé and a crisp sparkling white, conveniently packed in sleek cans (equivalent to two bottles of wine in a four-pack). The white blend is a masterful fusion of de-alcoholized California chardonnay and muscat. The rosé is made from 100 percent Syrah grapes, also from California. Both wines boast purity with no added sugars or juices. Eventually, Mull would like to see grocery stores dedicate a section solely to NA beverages, ensuring accessibility for all.

BuzzCutt Revolutionizes Finding NA Bars & Retail MEET OLIVIA SEARS and her wife, Sarah Sears, the dy-

namic duo behind BuzzCutt, an app designed to revolutionize how we enjoy drinks. Not only does this app cater to those embracing sobriety, but it’s also a beacon for anyone redefining their relationship with alcohol. Based in Portland, the city that proudly unveiled the nation’s first nonalcoholic distillery and tasting room, BuzzCutt is your guide to a world of NA delights. Picture this: a map brimming with bars, restaurants and even your local grocery store, all stocked with an array of nonalcoholic beverages. Best part? It’s all at your fingertips, and, yes, it’s completely free.

AT LEFT Sarah (left) and Olivia Sears are the minds behind BuzzCutt, an app that helps users discover bars, bottle shops, grocery stores and more catering to the nonalcoholic lifestyle.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 51

Watershed Decision Can endangered wild salmon & lower Snake River dams coexist?

written and photographed by Daniel O'Neil

52 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Lower Monumental Lock and Dam stretches more than half a mile across the lower Snake River, providing a bridge for local and tourist traffic, and barge passage to the sea.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 53

longside Lapwai Creek, on the Nez Perce Reservation, Nakia Williamson stands overlooking a spawned-out coho carcass in the clear winter water. Here in the Snake River Basin, coho salmon were declared extinct by the early 1980s, so the Nez Perce Tribe used its hatchery program to establish a new lineage, a faint thread to a distant abundant past.

Lower Snake River Dams Lower Granite Dam

Pasco

Sn ak

Lower Monumental Dam e

ver Ri Little Goose Dam Clarkston

Ice Harbor Dam Walla Walla

River

54 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

F

rom the retreat of Ice Age glaciers some 12,000 years ago, until the mid-1800s, an estimated 2 million to 6 million collective salmon—chinook, coho and sockeye salmon, and steelhead trout—returned each year to the Snake River Basin, the largest tributary to the Columbia River. Throughout that entire time, Indigenous peoples like the Nez Perce have lived with, and off of, these fish. Snake River salmon fill an essential role in the Pacific Northwest, feeding forests and wildlife, including Puget Sound orcas, as well as commercial and recreational fishing families from Washington to Alaska.

By the late 1800s, the Snake River system began losing its salmon as overharvest, habitat destruction, small dams, pollution and other actions piled up. Downstream dams on the Columbia, along with impassable dams upstream of

e Snak

The Nez Perce are salmon people. Their stories tell of when the first humans arrived helpless, and chinook salmon offered his flesh to sustain the new people. Since then, the two have become one.

“Every spring, that order that was placed in the time of creation is renewed when the first salmon makes its way up from the ocean to the Columbia River, past the dams now, to the place where we are today, and fulfills that commitment the salmon made to us at that time,” said Williamson, director of the tribe’s cultural resource program.

“But it also obligates us with certain commitments as Nez Perce people, and part of that is manifested in the advocacy that we are having to do today as part of that responsibility that goes back to the origin of who we are as a people.”

Between 1961 and 1975, a series of four federal dams—Ice Harbor, Lower Monumental, Little Goose and Lower Granite—abruptly interrupted the free-flowing lower Snake River, from just above Pasco to just beyond Clarkston, Washington.

Approximately 150 miles of rapids, flood plains, orchards and Indigenous sites were replaced with silent reservoirs. As expected, salmon populations sank toward, or met, extinction.

Those who manage and benefit from the dams argue that the salmon’s real problems lie elsewhere and that replacing the dams is reckless. Salmon advocates and fisheries scientists insist that, having tried everything else, the only solution is to breach the dams—remove the earthen-fill embankment, mothball the rest—and replace their services before the wild salmon vanish. Pressure is building on Congress to decide the fate of these four dams, and which—wild salmon or dams—survives the rest of this century.

Nakia Williamson said bald eagles returned to nest here along Lapwai Creek once the coho salmon were restored.

Clarkston, further restricted salmon runs on the Snake. In the early 1990s, all remaining wild salmon runs in the Snake River Basin were listed under the Endangered Species Act (ESA), which unleashed ongoing lawsuits.

The problem involves simple math. When two fish spawn and die, two of their offspring must return to replenish the population. Since construction of the lower Snake River (LSR) dams, wild salmon have not returned in numbers to replace themselves. Such a decline ends in extinction, as happened to the coho here and nearly to the sockeye.

With the dams, hatcheries were offered as mitigation. The Department of the Interior, and even the Washington Department of Fisheries, wrote memos about the necessary sacrifice of wild salmon for economic progress. Today, hundreds of millions of dollars annually fund hatchery programs throughout the Snake River Basin, producing hundreds of millions of smolts (juvenile salmon) each year. Since 1980, the federal government has spent nearly $27 billion toward restoring salmon here.

Hatcheries are not meant to replace wild fish or stop the extinction of a species, although a conservation hatchery program did save wild Snake River fall chinook, whose population has climbed from 100 to 9,000 natural-spawning

fish. They have also kept the sockeye from extinction. Today, hatcheries produce the bulk of all Snake River salmon runs, yet numbers of hatchery fish returning from the sea still fall far short of mandated goals. Worse, wild-spawning Snake River spring chinook, once the lifeblood of the Nez Perce, face an uncertain fate.

A

one-liter measuring cup sits full with water to its 1,000 milliliter mark. This represents the estimated one million spring chinook that historically returned to the Snake River Basin.

Beside it is a similar, but empty, cup. Jay Hesse, director of biological services for the Nez Perce Tribe’s fisheries department, squirts 7.5 milliliters of water into the empty cup. “If each thousand fish is a milliliter, that’s where we’re at now, on average: 7,500 natural-origin spring chinook. It doesn’t even cover the bottom of the cup.”

He adds another 8.5 milliliters from the syringe, which represents the larger returns of wild spring chinook in 2022.

“If you listened to the news reports that year, it was, ‘Wow, we turned a corner. We doubled the runs from the year before, from 8,000 to 16,000.’ It still doesn’t cover the bottom.”

The ESA delisting requirement is 43,000.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 55

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The fish passage facility at Lower Granite Dam moves smolts around the dam and allows researchers to study salmon runs on the Snake River.

Hatchery manager Derek Gloyn feeds 18,000 spring chinook at the Lyons Ferry Fish Hatchery on the lower Snake River.

Fish ladders help adult salmon swim up the side of a dam.

A

t the LSR dams, workers are proud of their own figure: greater than 96 percent survival at each individual dam. This suggests that nearly every smolt passing over, through or alongside a dam survives the ordeal. The Army Corps of Engineers notes that all four LSR dams, plus the Columbia River dams downstream, meet or exceed this federal mandate. Yet they also point out that, on average, 27 percent of smolts die along the lower Snake.

“These fish do have an altered system, and that includes the reservoirs and dams,” said Christopher Peery, lead fish biologist for the Operations Division at the Corps of Engineers Walla Walla District. “But I think we’ve demonstrated that survival through the system is good for adults and juveniles if we manage them properly.”

With the installation of fish ladders, juvenile bypass systems, removable spillways and smolt transportation barges, the federal government provides some of the most high-tech and expensive fish passage on Earth. Yet Snake River salmon remain in trouble, and fish advocates believe the cumulative effect of these four LSR dams on top of the four downstream Columbia River dams proves too much.

Adult return rates are two to four times higher for salmon in river systems below the LSR dams, like the John Day and the Yakima.

56 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Peery blames the fish and birds waiting to feast on incoming smolts as the largest source of juvenile loss in the river system. But most of the salmon, he argues, are actually killed at sea. Some years, a cool and nourishing ocean produces more adult salmon, like in 2022. In other years, opposite conditions do the opposite. Peery points out that Snake River smolts have the added constraint of migrating a long distance. “They encounter more obstacles and have to go past more predators than other populations that migrate shorter distances. So they’re under more risks than populations that don’t have as many things going against them.”

Since the early 1970s, Steve Pettit, a Huey pilot in Vietnam and retired fish biologist with the Idaho Department of Fish and Game, has challenged the LSR dams, including the 96 percent survival rate. “That’s make-believe because they’re not looking at delayed mortality,” he said. After exiting a dam, smolts often emerge stunned or beat-up, which can lead to death downstream or expose the traumatized fish to waiting predators, dam after dam.

Pettit, who served as an expert witness in successful trials challenging Army Corps of Engineers dam operations after the ESA listings, suggests other factors at play. “There’s a lot of federal money involved, although a private consulting firm did the studies for the Corps and produced the 96 to 98 percent passage survival estimate,” Pettit said. “The fisheries

“The bottom line is these fish are at high risk of extinction, and analyses since the 1990s confirm that dams are the main problem preventing recovery of wild Snake River Basin salmon and steelhead. More recently, multiple plans have illustrated that virtually every service provided by the four lower Snake River dams can be replaced and mitigated,” Thurow said.

“In sharp contrast, we have no options to replace these iconic wild fish and the ecological, cultural, recreational and economic values they provide. If we lose them, they are gone— there are no populations on Earth that can replace them.”

I agencies and the tribes have fought that figure for four decades. We don’t believe it, but the Corps paid their money for it, and that’s what they’re going to court with, that 96 percent of the fish that encounter the concrete survive.”

A

lthough spawning in the largest wilderness area in the Lower 48, spring chinook are still struggling on the Salmon River despite low ocean harvest rates and zero harvest in the rivers, no hatchery influence, and dam-free access upstream of Lower Granite. A tributary of the Snake River in Hells Canyon, the Salmon hosts a population of spring chinook that remains incredibly wild. To spawn, they swim 900 miles, past eight dams, and gain 6,600 feet in elevation.

Without their hereditary fitness and other genealogical traits, such a journey wouldn’t be possible.

Since 1992, spring chinook on the Salmon River, and across the entire Snake River Basin, have retained their ESA “threatened species” status. Today’s runs on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River average about 3 percent of what returned into the mid-1960s. In 2023, the return was half of that. Russ Thurow, emeritus fisheries research scientist at the U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Research Station, has studied those chinook since the late 1970s. He is frustrated, yet not hopeless.

n 2019, Thurow told The New York Times that the Salmon River’s wild chinook had another twenty years before extinction netted them. Today, he and other biologists figure those fish now have about fifteen years, or three generations, remaining. Nez Perce Fisheries biologists recently published a study that found 42 percent of the Snake’s wild spring and summer chinook populations qualified under the NOAA Fisheries term “quasi-extinct,” meaning fewer than fifty fish on spawning grounds for four consecutive years.

Peer-reviewed scientific papers, interagency committees, politicians ranging from Idaho Republican congressman Mike Simpson to Washington Governor Jay Inslee, and even a recent out-of-lockstep NOAA Fisheries report have all supported breaching the LSR dams as the only course toward recovering wild Snake River Basin salmon. Price tags for replacing the dams’ services range from $10 billion to $31 billion.

Last December, as part of an agreement related to ongoing litigation, the Biden Administration announced $300 million in habitat restoration and hatchery improvements over the next ten years. The White House cannot order breaching,

The bottom line is these fish are at high risk of extinction, and analyses since the 1990s confirm that dams are the main problem preventing recovery of wild Snake River Basin salmon and steelhead. More recently, multiple plans have illustrated that virtually every service provided by the four lower Snake River dams can be replaced and mitigated. In sharp contrast, we have no options to replace these iconic wild fish and the ecological, cultural, recreational and economic values they provide.

If we lose them, they are gone—there are no populations on Earth that can replace them.”

—Russ Thurow, emeritus fisheries research scientist at the U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Research Station

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 57

but it did instruct federal agencies to investigate the scenario should Congress ever consider it. The federal government also committed $1 billion to funding tribally led renewable energy projects, including one created by the Nez Perce Tribe, sufficient to replace the power generated by the LSR dams.

On the surface, the four dams on the lower Snake River together provide about 900 megawatts of electricity annually, roughly enough yearly power for Seattle, or 4 percent of the region’s needs. But according to Bonneville Power Administration senior spokesperson Doug Johnson, on an annual basis the four dams generate 10 to 12 percent of the energy BPA is contractually obligated to provide—their sustained peaking capacity of around 2,300 megawatts allows for increased production in events like heat waves and cold snaps.

“It’s not a one-for-one replacement with wind or solar,” Johnson said. “The sun doesn’t shine at night, and you only have fuel for wind turbines when the wind’s blowing. Once we know how much water we’re going to have, we can plan and dispatch that output. You lose that with wind and solar.”

Gigawatt-scale batteries and small modular nuclear reactors could solve this problem, but those technologies are still in development. Johnson noted that it takes years to site,

plan, design and construct generating resources like wind and solar farms, and that it can take even longer to adapt the power grid to this change.

“So it’s decades long, not months or years long, when you talk about a replacement of this magnitude. We need to take some of the myopic focus on these facilities out and look at all of the things that impact salmon and steelhead, and at other actions we can take to mitigate the impacts these and other dams have had on them across the Northwest,” Johnson said.

Replacing the transportation benefits of the four dams would also require significant investment and infrastructure.

It’s not a one-for-one replacement with wind or solar. The sun doesn’t shine at night, and you only have fuel for wind turbines when the wind’s blowing. Once we know how much water we’re going to have, we can plan and dispatch that output.

You lose that with wind and solar.”

—Doug Johnson, Bonneville Power Administration spokesperson

Lower Granite Lock and Dam operating project manager Rob Lustig (left) and supervisory fisheries biologist Dave Miller believe that both salmon and dams can survive.

58 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Because flow through the dam equals profits in hydropower, even the amount of water that must be spilled to help smolts downstream was decided by a federal judge.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 59

If you can have clean energy and keep salmon from becoming extinct, why wouldn’t you take the measures to do that for future generations—for myself and my kids and my kids’ kids? Why not move forward?”

—Scout Alford, member of Youth Salmon Protectors

Shortline railroads once linked Palouse wheat growers to markets, until the dams’ toll-free navigational locks opened.

In a new scenario, rails would carry cargo, the bulk of which is wheat for export, from Clarkston-Lewiston and ports downstream to westbound barges at the Tri-Cities.

Not everyone sees the crystal ball so promising. Derek Teal, general manager of Pomeroy Grain Growers, worries about the financial consequences for his sector and other industries that rely on barge transport to remain solvent.

“We’ve been in business since 1930, and we will not exist without the dams. And when I say that, people raise an eyebrow,” Teal said. “It won’t happen overnight, but without a viable rail solution, farmers will eventually go to places that are more cost-effective for them, which will erode away our business until we’re no longer sustainable.”

M

anaged extinction,” fisheries scientist Rick Williams called it. “Slow enough for the people to accept the actions that were needed, and fast enough for the fish so that they could respond,” Williams said, quoting a former colleague. “That whole phrase applies to the issue on the dams right now. Murray and Inslee are saying, ‘No, slow down, we have to wait till we have all the energy replacement,’ and most of the biologists I’m talking to are saying, ‘I hope the fish have that much time,’ as opposed to starting lower Snake River restoration now and simultaneously attacking the replacement issues.”

Action did occur fast enough for salmon on the Elwha and Klamath rivers, where decision makers have prioritized wild fish over dams. But those rivers’ dams had no fish passage, and they cost more than they provided. In the case of the LSR, Congress has far less incentive to decommission the dams, for now.

Scout Alford has grown up along the lower Snake. She is now 18, and she votes. Alford is also a member of Youth Salmon Protectors, a collective of high school- and collegeage Snake River salmon advocates. It is becoming her generation’s turn to influence Congress, including in the Pacific Northwest where breaching is still politically unpopular.

“If you can have clean energy and keep salmon from becoming extinct, why wouldn’t you take the measures to do that for future generations—for myself and my kids and my kids’ kids?” she said. “Why not move forward?”

60 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Scout Alford, 18, of Youth Salmon Protectors, would like to see a restored Snake River flow freely between Clarkston and Lewiston.

With Lewiston, Idaho, as the world’s most inland seaport, barges load wheat for export at various elevators along the lower Snake River.

C

omposed in impeccable cursive on thirteen line-ruled, light blue pages, the first treaty with the Nez Perce (Nimiipuu), in 1855, carries the implacable weight of the U.S. Constitution.

In Article 3 of this agreement between sovereigns, the right to take fish is secured.

“What one side does should not burden the other side; there is mutual benefit to one another,” said Shannon Wheeler, chairman of the Nez Perce Tribe. “So if we understand it as healthy, harvestable, abundant numbers of fish in the water, then that’s what we expect. And if we’re unable to realize that benefit that we bargained for, the United States, which also is in the treaty, needs to remedy what has been wronged.”

In 1855, the right to fish for salmon implied a subsistence fishery for the tribe. Then and today, it also guarantees a way of life, a connection with the land. Having lived and fished along the Snake River for some 16,000 years, the Nez Perce Tribe recognizes this decisive moment to uphold its oath to salmon.

“We’ve reached our tipping point of how long we could live with the dams,” Wheeler said. “The irreversible damages the dams cause are more detrimental than the use that they provide. But the technologies and ingenuity that we have today are greater than at the inception of the dams. We just need the will to change. It’s not going to be an easy journey, but it’s a journey that we have to take nonetheless.”

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 61

UNEARTHED ART & SCIENCE SURVEY THE FOSSIL RECORD written by Kerry Newberry DAVID MILLER is an accomplished artist hiding in plain sight. A resident of Bellingham for more than thirty years, he has played a key role as part of the Whatcom Museum’s exhibition team since 2012. The artistry behind many of the museum’s exhibitions, from 80-foot murals to miniature dioramas, is thanks to Miller’s creativity, vision and attention to detail.

But what is perhaps less well-known is that Miller is an acclaimed scientific illustrator with a focus on paleoart. Paleoart is a genre of art that envisions what long-extinct animals might have looked like based on fossil observation and research and often depicts prehistoric creatures in their natural habitats from millennia ago.

Miller found his way into this niche field of illustration soon after art school in the late 1970s. Since then, he’s contributed artwork to the book Discovering Fossil Fishes, and his paintings have been featured in scores of scientific journals and been on display in the halls of some of the highest-regarded research and art institutions across the country, including the Smithsonian, the Yale Peabody Museum and the Burke Museum at the University of Washington.

Scientific accuracy is his highest goal, and each piece requires hours of research, fossil or musculoskeletal analysis, and collaboration with experts. The Whatcom Museum in Bellingham celebrates Miller’s work with Unearthed, featuring the largest collection of his illustrations ever displayed together in one exhibition.

Miller’s paleoart pieces are shown alongside their fossil counterparts, on loan from the Burke Museum and Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks and Minerals.

Also on view for the first time is a fossil of a woolly mammoth molar from the Whatcom Museum’s permanent collection as well as Miller’s newest painting depicting the mammoth in its Pleistocene habitat. The exhibition runs from April 27 through September 29. For more information, visit www.whatcommuseum.org.

62

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

ABOVE: Atractosteus atrox, 1999, oil on panel, illustration by David Miller Atractosteus, with its torpedo-shaped body and long, narrow snout, scatters a school of Knightia, or small, ray-finned fishes.

TOP LEFT: Alligator gar skull, photo by John Coltharp Charles Darwin called Atractosteus (or alligator gar) a “living fossil” because it has remained relatively unchanged for the last 100 million years. The fossil example here is of a modern alligator gar, which usually grows to about 6 feet long but can be as large as 10 feet and weigh in at 350 pounds.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 63

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Dipterus and Climatius, 1998, oil and acrylic on board, illustration by David Miller Dipterus was a freshwater lungfish from the Middle Devonian (380 million years ago) in present-day Scotland. Climatius shares many characteristics of modern ray-fins and sharks, yet it lacked fins itself and, instead, sported defensive spines.

Mammuthus primigenius, 2023-24, oil on panel in process, illustration by David Miller, photo by John Coltharp The Whatcom Museum recently acquired a fossilized woolly mammoth molar (shown on the table at right) and commissioned Miller to develop an accompanying illustration. He consulted with Camilo Ponton, Ph.D., assistant professor in the Geology Department at Western Washington University, to get a better understanding of the woolly mammoth’s ancient Alaskan environment as well as the animal’s morphology and possible behaviors. From there, Miller created rough sketches to convey both the vastness of the steppe and also the sheer size of the beasts. By shifting the viewer’s perspective and lowering the eye level, the nearest mammoth seems to loom, and the steppe is accentuated by having the migrating group of females with young recede far into the distance.

Dinictis skull fossils with drawings, 2023, illustrations by David Miller, photo by John Coltharp Dinictis is one of the early saber-toothed cats that lived on the North American Plains 20-30 million years ago. It had a sleek body and resembled a modern-day lynx. But while it was smaller than the massive Ice Age saber-tooth cat that probably comes to mind, it was nonetheless an efficient predator, with elongated, curved, serrated upper canines. Here, Miller focuses his early study drawings on the cat’s musculoskeletal fossil structures to better understand attributes and adaptations of extinct creatures. This will guide his more complete illustrations later.

64 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 65

ABOVE: Archaeopteryx, 2006, oil on panel, illustration by David Miller Archaeopteryx was a small bird-like dinosaur roughly the size of a raven. In fact, it may have been a transitional species from non-avian dinosaurs to birds. We often think of dinosaurs as enormous, but Miller depicts Archaeopteryx’s small size by including an insect in the creature’s clutches. It is shown here with Compsognathus, a small theropod dinosaur from the Late Jurassic.

AT RIGHT: Archaeopteryx fossil cast, photo by John Coltharp Archaeopteryx fossils are rare, with only twelve in existence in the world. The example seen here is a cast (or copy) of an original fossil specimen discovered in the 1870s and housed in the Berlin Natural History Museum.

66

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

WE GETAWAY TO COME TOGETHER

Three rivers and seven wilderness areas meet in Missoula, Montana, a place of small-town charm and big city personality packed into one magical escape. Nature and culture seem to coexist in perfect harmony here, where public art and outdoor concerts feel as natural as the surrounding mountains. Missoula offers a chance to rest and recharge, inside and out. Sit back and be well in this cultural hub and culinary hot spot, and soak in the serenity of some of the world’s most soul-stirring landscapes.

CLARK FORK RIVER,  DOWNTOWN MISSOULA

Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly.

Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Wildhorse Resort & Casino

Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton brings the fun.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS

GETAWAYS, NEW THINGS & ENTERTAINMENT FOR INCLEMENT WEATHER

A

written by Emma Giffin

hh, spring in the Pacific Northwest. It’s a time when skies are gray and dripping and the temperatures are too cold for al fresco dining. The summer pursuits are still weeks off, sheltering for now, until sun hits our trails and hardens the mud, temperatures rise to the point where cyclists aren’t generating prohibitive cold as they pedal, and the outdoor spaces of breweries are filled with people sipping and playing lawn games. Still the body is restless from a long winter, disappointment from snow that came late and missed the holidays, when we could have participated in snow sports.

Spring is nonetheless a season of optimism, creativity and opportunity. It is rebirth and renewal, for both nature and ourselves. It’s that tug of getting out and the perennial drive for renewal that brings us to getaways that offer excitement, rebirth and a chance to get outdoors, if weather abides.

There are many excursions you can put together around casinos and nearby outdoor activities, but we went ahead and created a few here to serve as a model of what they can look like. Our emphasis is on the balance between the need for something new and the need to get outside and renew. These casinos offer a mix of luxury spas, gourmet restaurants, lively gaming and proximity to interesting excursions to feed the mind and body.

68

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WASHINGTON

W

Tamástslikt Cultural Institute

Don’t miss the Wildhorse Resort golf course during your stay.

Wildhorse Resort & Casino

e begin at the luxurious Tulalip Resort Casino, just off the Puget Sound forty minutes north of Seattle. The resort has more than 300 luxury rooms designed with traditional Tulalip Tribes decor, as well as a pool and hot tub for relaxation. Don’t give up your fitness routine, as Tulalip has a fitness room with many of the cardio machines you’d find at your hometown fitness club.

Across from that is the T Spa, a luxurious sanctuary offering deep tissue massages as well as Native-inspired spa rituals, body treatments and skin therapies.

For entertainment, the resort has a full suite of slots and table games, as well as a cabaret venue, a ballroom for bigger bands and an outdoor amphitheater for summer concerts. Resort dining options include Asian cuisine at Journeys East,

MORE TO EXPLORE: Tamástslikt Cultural Institute

Tulalip Resort Casino

OCEANSIDE LUXURY AT TULALIP RESORT CASINO

Mexican dishes at Salish Sun Taqueria and stone-fired pizza at Blazing Paddles.

A short drive south of the resort puts you at the Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve, where you can learn about the history of the Tulalip Tribes and meander the 50-acre natural preserve.

Just 7 miles south, find peace at the Evergreen Arboretum and Gardens. This

A rendering shows details from Tulalip Resort Casino’s planned renovation and expansion, which is expected to be completed in 2025.

3.5-acre redoubt has eleven gardens, including the Urban Tree Walk, Rock Garden, Northwest Native Plant Trail, Japanese Maple Grove and others.

If you loved your Tulalip getaway, set a date for 2025 when plans for a 70,250-square-foot expansion are expected to be completed. | www.tulalip resortcasino.com

OREGON

A SUN-SOAKED CLEANSE AT WILDHORSE

I

f there’s any chance for good weather and good times this spring, it’s at Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton. Run by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation (including Cayuse, Walla Walla and Umatilla tribes), the resort combines luxury and fun with a twenty-four-lane bowling alley.

It’s also perfect for those who want to gamble by night and lay down a wager among friends at the resort golf course by day. Wildhorse Resort Golf Course is an eighteen-hole, 7,112-yard Scottish-links style course that plays fast under the Eastern Oregon sun.

All of the resort rooms are nicely designed with a contemporary flair and all of the amenities you would expect from a luxury resort. Splurge on the 850-square-foot Vista Suite, with two huge flat screens, a wet bar and separate living room.

70 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

There are many options for dining and drinking, beginning with Plateau, a restaurant serving local beef in the form of filet mignon, a Kobe beef burger, pomodoro pasta and a handful of green salads. Sandwiches, burgers, nachos and quesadillas are on the menu at Traditions. Head to the Wildhorse Sports Bar for happy hour for fish and chips, calamari and wings.

Family fun takes precedence at the Wildhorse FunPlex, an arcade, bowling alley and five-screen Cineplex.

If walking eighteen holes isn’t your thing, walk 1.4 miles along the outskirts of the golf course to the excellent Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, the only museum on the Oregon Trail that tells the story of western expansionism from a tribal point of view.

Of course, you can’t come that far without stopping at Deadman’s Pass Rest Area to see wagon ruts along the Oregon Trail. | www.wildhorseresort.com

MORE WINNERS MORE FUN!

With over 1,100 Vegas-style slots, table games, scenic golf, a Family FunPlex, live entertainment and delicious restaurants, you'll find endless ways to play just a short drive away!

CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F 05812.TT.01.24

Photos: Legends Casino Hotel

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Atomic Heritage Foundation

Find superb entertainment options at Legends Casino Hotel, just west of the Tri-Cities and south of Yakima.

MORE TO EXPLORE: Manhattan Project B Reactor

MORE TO EXPLORE: Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge

WASHINGTON

LEGENDS ON WASHINGTON’S HIGH DESERT

O

n the edge of the Yakama Indian Reservation and just west of the Tri-cities, Legends Casino Hotel offers 200 rooms with eighteen of those luxury suites, outfitted with Native murals and Native Naturals bath amenities, a Native American-owned company that uses Native botanicals. The Celilo Suite is the essence of renewal, with a relaxing soaking tub and 800 square feet of mindspace. The hotel also has an indoor pool and hot tub for those who don’t have a private soaking tub.

Entertainment includes live music, boxing, comedy and more. For example, March and April bring the Marshall Tucker Band with Jefferson Starship, Third Eye Blind and standup comedian Jo Koy to Legends. Boxer Roy Jones Jr. came and went in January.

Dining is well covered by the buffet, which features cedar plank salmon, crab boils, bone-in ribeye and huckleberry

72 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

cheesecake. Legendary Burgers, Madres Mexican restaurant and pizza at Creations round out the dining options.

Walk to the Yakama Nation Cultural Center to learn more about the history of the Yakama Nation, made up of fourteen tribes and bands.

A short 12-mile drive south, head to the Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge, an almost 2,000-acre wetland preserve where you’ll find lots of shorebirds and upland wildlife such as coyotes, deer and badgers.

Since you’ve no doubt seen the threehour blockbuster Oppenheimer, starring Cillian Murphy as atomic bomb creator Robert Oppenheimer, you’ll want to tack on an hour jaunt east to the Manhattan Project National Historical Park at Hanford, a key part of the Manhattan Project. Be sure to reserve tickets for a B Reactor tour if you go. | www.legends casino.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WASHINGTON

TRIPLE THE FUN AT 12 TRIBES COLVILLE CASINOS

Muckleshoot Casino Resort

T Stay and play at Muckleshoot Casino Resort near Tacoma.

WASHINGTON

A CHANCE TO RELAX & REJUVENATE AT MUCKLESHOOT CASINO RESORT

J

Chuck Lysen/Travel Tacoma

ust 16 miles east of Tacoma, step into the Muckleshoot Casino Resort. On clear days in spring, you’ll get views of Mount Rainier, the Olympic Range and the Seattle skyline from the eighteen-story hotel.

Opening this spring is the Labcəbut Spa. The spa will give Muckleshoot visitors just what they need—rejuvenating massage and facial treatments.

The expanded resort offers an indoor heated pool and Smoke & Cedar, an upscale steakhouse with sweeping views of Mount Rainier, located on the rooftop. Some of the other dining options include Restaurant 8, Asian and seafood, with Maine lobster flown in weekly and Peking duck.

Entertainment is another reason to make Muckleshoot your getaway.

Boyz II Men and Morris Day and the Time are two notable acts coming to stage at Muckleshoot’s Event Center. For more live music and dancing, hit Club Galaxy, where the beat never stops.

While in the Tacoma neighborhood, don’t miss the Tacoma Museum of Glass, just 16 miles west. The museum is the nation’s premier fusion of contemporary glass art and glassmaking. Widely known for its Dale Chihuly works, this spring exhibits such as The Salmon School and A Two-Way Mirror exhibit by contemporary Black artists are more reasons to take this outing.

Head back to Muckleshoot’s rooftop bar to cap the evening in this cultured western Washington getaway. | www.muckleshootcasino.com

MORE TO EXPLORE: Tacoma Museum of Glass

74

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

he 12 Tribes of Colville came to be by an act of the United States government in 1872 under President Ulysses S. Grant thereby combining twelve tribes and reducing their lands to acres along the Columbia River. Today, you have vast options when it comes to the 12 Tribes Colville Casinos. The three properties are at Coulee Dam, Omak and Lake Chelan, each with its own nearby adventures.

Known for its blackjack tournaments, each property, however, has its own charm. The flagship property is the Omak casino, just south of the Canadian border on Highway 97. Rooms in the hotel have windows that showcase the vast rugged terrain of the surrounding Okanogan country.

Just east of Omak is Omak Lake, the state’s largest saline lake at 3,244 acres.

Though the shoreline is prohibited to non-tribal members, the boat launch and waters are open to the public for boating in its crystal blue waters.

Gaming includes slots, blackjack, poker, roulette and more. If you’re feeling lucky after a straight flush with spades, grab a set of clubs across the road at Okanagan Valley Golf Club, where it’s $40 for eighteen holes.

Wind down at the casino’s Loggers Pub, where the bourbon bbq ribs or salmon will pair nicely with a craft IPA. | www.colvillecasinos.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Photos: Seven Feathers Casino Resort

Seven Feathers Casino Resort is perfect for a weekend getaway.

OREGON

A PAMPERED STAY AT SEVEN FEATHERS

S

even Feathers Casino Resort sits between Eugene and Medford in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, home to many beautiful waterfalls—Deadline Falls, Fern Falls and Fall Creek Falls to name a few.

After a vigorous hike to waterfalls, come back to Seven Feathers’ River Rock Spa and take to the calming soaking pool, the sauna and massage treatments.

Find your cozy space in Seven Feathers’ 300-room hotel—perhaps a newly

76 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

renovated 600-square-foot king suite with jacuzzi tub and walk-in shower.

The K-Bar Steakhouse and Elements Lounge are two of many restaurants and bars on Seven Feathers’ campus. Elements also has live music acts that span rock to country and live DJs. An indoor pool and fitness center will keep you fit if the weather doesn’t abide.

Know that out front you can find Skookum Hyak, the largest bronze-cast eagle in the world. | www.sevenfeathers.com

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 80 ADVENTURE 81 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86

pg. 86 Winthrop has one of the country’s top Nordic ski systems for an active winter retreat.

Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

The slooow season has arrived.

Get in sync with our quiet season … more nature, more space and a slower pace on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.

OlympicPeninsula.org

travel spotlight

Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve, where you can learn the history of regional tribes while inside a traditional longhouse.

Preserving Traditions

Tulalip’s Hibulb Cultural Center documents tribal history for future generations written by Joni Kabana

Seattle NorthCountry

WORDS MATTER, but they can also be used as a weapon against cultural destruction. Learn about this and more at the Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve in Tulalip. (Dxwlilap, the Salish word for Tulalip, means “small-mouthed bay,” referring to the location’s nearly landlocked cove.)

The center was conceived by the Tulalip people, direct descendants of the Snohomish, Snoqualmie, Skykomish and other tribal allies, to develop a place to gather, share stories and information, and provide experiences for their children to carry cultural practices and beliefs forward to future generations.

Immerse yourself in experiential exhibits that foster awareness of the historical and present-day journey of the Tulalip people. Learn about traditional territories, seasonal navigational impacts and the fascinating cultural relevance of cedar trees.

Sit in a cedar longhouse and learn about its historical use and how it can affect political, spiritual and daily living beliefs. In addition to the numerous amenities of the cultural center, there are fifty acres of forested wetlands, a certified archaeological repository and a library chock full of research materials.

Authenticity rules here. The center prides itself on programming and displays that are genuinely sourced and information sharing that is revelatory and stirring.

Hours of operation are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and noon to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Group tours or selfguided tours are available. For more information visit www.hibulb culturalcenter.org.

80

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Andy Porter/State of Washington Tourism

adventure

Palouse Falls State Park south of Spokane is one of the most sonorous ways to take in the stars, with the falls tumbling below.

Washington’s Best Places to Stargaze Four dark locations across the state for optimal celestial shows written by Jen Sotolongo

EMBARK ON A celestial journey across Washington and discover some of the best places to witness the night sky unfold in a breathtaking display. Found in all corners of the state, these stargazing spots offer some of the best celestial panoramas in Washington. Prime stargazing season runs from late spring through early fall, due the lack of cloud coverage. Washington by day showcases its diverse beauty, and a clear night can be equally stunning, unveiling an entirely different spectacle.

Palouse Falls State Park Revered for the impressive cataract that plunges 200 feet into the Palouse River, Palouse Falls is worth a visit just to witness the falls, but given its out-of-the-way location in Eastern Washington, it’s worth staying for a night or two. Stargazers can enjoy an unfiltered pitch dark canvas to observe constellations, planets and meteor showers.

For an optimal stargazing experience, plan your visit during moonless nights when the stars shine their brightest. Visitors can set up telescopes or simply lay back on the grassy areas near the falls, absorbing the celestial wonders above.

While Palouse Falls State Park is accessible throughout the year, the best stargazing conditions occur during the warmer months, from late spring to early fall. This period ensures clear skies and comfortable temperatures for an immersive night under the stars. Camping is available in the park.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 81

Olympic Peninsula Visitor Bureau

Combine the spectacle of stars overhead and the Pacific tides at your feet on the Olympic Peninsula.

Perched atop a hill in Goldendale, a tiny town in southwestern Washington, Goldendale Observatory State Park is one of the best places in the state to peer into the night sky due to the minimal light pollution and elevation at 2,000 feet.

Home to one of the largest and most accessible public telescopes, the Goldendale Observatory provides educational programming for free. In the evenings, the observatory has several telescopes available for public use, with expert staff available to answer questions and point out notable stars, planets and constellations.

If you want to learn about the solar system, the park offers afternoon programming where visitors can learn about the sun.

After staring (safely) into the sun, enjoy the views of the valley and surrounding mountains with a picnic lunch at the park.

Table Mountain Star Party In the remote reaches of the Okanogan in the town of Oroville, the Table Mountain Star Party unfolds as an extraordinary spectacle, offering a unique blend of stargazing and community engagement against the scenic backdrop of the Cascades. In past years, this annual event transformed Table Mountain into a hub for astronomers and stargazers, creating an immersive experience that captivates both seasoned sky gazers and those new to the wonders of the cosmos. This year, the event—soon to be known as the Washington State Star Party—is changing locations, but will still be located in North Central Washington.

The event provides four days of night sky viewing. Visitors can bring their own telescopes or join guided sessions led by experienced astronomers, diving deep into the celestial wonders overhead. The event coordinators strategically plan the party to coincide with summertime astronomical events, ensuring 82 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Troy Carpenter

Goldendale Observatory State Park

attendees witness meteor showers, planetary alignments and other celestial phenomena. Programming includes guest speakers, workshops and opportunities for astrophotography.

To fully embrace the Star Party experience, attendees are encouraged to bring camping gear and set up beneath the stars. The overnight event allows participants to witness the transition from the last light of sunset to the emergence of a glittering tapestry.

Olympic Peninsula On the pristine shores of the Olympic Peninsula, stargazing becomes an ethereal experience. The combination of dark skies and the soothing sounds of the Pacific Ocean provides a

A late Geminid meteor and fireworks illuminate dense fog right before the clock struck midnight on New Year’s Eve at Goldendale Observatory.

mesmerizing backdrop for astronomy enthusiasts. Away from city lights, the beaches offer an immersive stargazing experience where constellations reflect on the wet sand, mirroring the celestial beauty above.

Pick just about any favorite beach for the experience, such as Third Beach, Rialto or Ruby Beach. For an unforgettable experience, bring a blanket, lay back on the sandy shores and watch the sky transform from a spectacular beach sunset to the decorated night sky.

Campgrounds and lodgings along the coast cater to those wanting to spend a few days enjoying the Peninsula. Coastal stargazing is best experienced during clear nights, especially in the warmer months. Late spring to early fall provides optimal conditions.

Also in the Olympic Peninsula, Olympic Telescope has offered free public telescope viewings and nighttime hikes at Hurricane Ridge during the summer months for over a decade. Visitors will have the opportunity to see galaxies, nebulas and star clusters on optimal viewing nights during this special experience.

Whether camping under the stars at Palouse Falls, joining a night sky party in the far reaches of the state, attending an educational program at an observatory or simply looking up from the sandy shores of the Pacific Ocean, Washington’s night skies offer a humble yet awe-inspiring spectacle that anyone who appreciates the vast expanse of the universe will enjoy.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 83

Photos: Outlook Inn

lodging

ACCOMMODATIONS The thirty-two-room inn offers standard guest rooms in the east wing, studio suites on the hill and its newest and most luxurious addition, five premium water’s edge suites.

With patios directly overlooking a log-strewn beach and soul-soothing views stretching before you, these spacious suites feature king-size beds, electric fireplaces, heated bathroom floors, private balconies and soaker tubs in some. Expect flat-panel TVs, Nespresso machines, fine linens and thoughtful appointments throughout.

DINING The inn’s New Leaf Cafe is a cozy eatery with a sumptuous selection of seasonally inspired brunch and dinner fare that belies its casual atmosphere.

The well-rounded menu, carefully crafted by chef Andrew Martin, has a “tide-to-table” philosophy that highlights local products, and skillful preparation of each dish is matched by artful presentation. Don’t miss one of the handcrafted morning cocktails at brunch, and look out for the selection of San Juan Islands-made brews at dinner.

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Outlook Inn on Orcas Island. A soothing view from a suite at the inn. The New Leaf Cafe has a “tide-to-table” menu.

Outlook Inn written by Lauren Kramer WITH A STATELY, historic main building that dates back to 1888, the Outlook Inn is a landmark in Orcas Island’s Eastsound, a grande dame that has long been a gathering point for locals and visitors. There’s no denying the overwhelmingly peaceful beauty of a property surrounded by rocky shores and densely forested islands, and at the inn you get to enjoy this bewitchingly beautiful view from luxury waterfront suites. Here you can bask in the sunshine of your private balcony, watch the seabirds dip and dive beneath the still water’s surface and the light change color on Fishing Bay and Indian Island. Today, this is Eastsound’s best spot for a divinely recuperative getaway accompanied by quality, fine dining cuisine at the inn’s restaurant, the New Leaf Cafe.

171 MAIN ST. EASTSOUND www.outlookinn.com

84 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

HISTORY The Outlook Inn’s story began in 1888, just as Orcas Island’s Eastsound was getting established as a village.

Back then, its historic main building was home to the village’s jail, post office, general store and dance hall.

Over the years, the inn changed names and ownership many times, and new proprietors renovated, expanded and modernized it. But none generated as much controversy as its purchaser in 1968, the mystic guru Louis Gittner, who declared its proximity to an energy vortex and turned it into a spiritual commune where he and his followers could live and learn. Today the inn is owned by a small investment group and run by locals with island warmth, friendliness and a distinctly family feel. A small, historic chapel in the garden out back is a beautiful site for small weddings and private gatherings.

trip planner

Winthrop Discover the perfect, small-town getaway in the North Cascades written by Ryn Pfeuffer

HUGGED INTO the North Cascades, Winthrop offers a whimsical Western ambience that’s like stepping into a living history book. Its Old West facades and wooden boardwalks evoke a sense of time travel, but don’t be fooled. This town buzzes with sophisticated, year-round excitement. Whatever the season, Winthrop spoils you with an array of activities. Winter transforms the Methow Valley into a snowy wonderland, home to more than 120 miles of meticulously groomed crosscountry ski trails amid expansive wilderness and forests spanning over a million acres. Here’s how to make the most of a weekend getaway.

Day SNOWY DELIGHTS • WILD BOAR WELLINGTON Arrive in Winthrop and settle in at Hotel Rio Vista—an affordable gem settled by the river, just a stone’s throw from the town center. The convenience is unbeatable, and the rustic charm? It’s off the charts. If you’ve got a group in tow, Fawn Creek Hideaway is your spot—the cabin sleeps six, features sprawling decks and has a cozy wood-burning stove for those chilly winter days.

Make your way to the Methow Trails for an unforgettable dose of cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. Seriously, it’s like stepping straight into a picture-perfect snowy scene. Methow Trails is your go-to here. This organization operates the nation’s most extensive cross-country ski area, boasting 120 miles of trails. Oh, and here’s a sweet deal—kids 17 and under ski free every day. The trails are divided 86 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Downtown Winthrop’s wooden boardwalk connects art and shops in a Western theme.

Greg Balkin/State of Washington Tourism

trip planner

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 87

Arrowleaf Bistro

Gerald Smith/Methow Tails

trip planner

FROM TOP The vast Methow Valley trail system at the base of the North Cascades. Arrowleaf Bistro, with its roasted carrots, is one of a handful of fine dining experiences in Winthrop.

88 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

into three zones: Mazama, perfect for beginners; Sun Mountain, great for mixed-ability groups; and Rendezvous, a treat for seasoned skiers with stunning views of the North Cascades and the Methow Valley from 4,000-foot-high overlooks. Plus, the Community Trail stretches nearly 19 miles from Mazama to Winthrop, connecting it all.

A stone’s throw from downtown Winthrop, Arrowleaf Bistro is a testament to culinary artistry with a local twist. With new torchbearers Kathy Borgersen and Sophia Boesenberg at the helm, this spot’s flavors are next level. Kick off your feast with the maple and mustard roasted carrots before diving into the wild boar Wellington—a feast for the senses. Leave room for the grand finale, a hot fudge and tahini skillet cake paired with sesame crunch ice cream. For a classy sip, try the Arrowleaf Old Fashioned, a fusion of pink peppercorn, bing cherry and orange.

Winter transforms the Methow Valley into a snowy wonderland, home to more than 120 miles of meticulously groomed cross-country ski trails amid expansive wilderness and forests spanning over a million acres.

ADVENTURE • BAKED GOODS • CIDER SAMPLERS Morning fuel? Essential for today’s agenda. Swing by Rocking Horse Bakery for a breakfast worth savoring. Doors open at 7 a.m. five days a week for the valley’s best breakfast sandwich— scrambled eggs nestled atop locally sourced bacon, sausage or roasted veggies, draped with pepper jack cheese on a freshly baked biscuit. And those cinnamon pull-aparts? They’re irresistible. If you need a caffeine fix, they’ve got you covered with espresso drinks crafted from beans courtesy of Lariat Coffee Roasters in Winthrop.

Snow adventurers, brace yourselves for an epic winter escapade with Snowmobile Winthrop. Get your fix of adrenalinepumping snowmobile action aboard, with half- or full-day options. But that’s not all—prepare for an unforgettable guided night ride in Sweetgrass Butte, where the thrill of the dark, snowy trails under the starry sky awaits. And hey, these snowmobiles aren’t just for cruising; their Expedition 600 ACEs are rigged with ski or snowboard mounts, perfect for towing all your gear for some serious backcountry shredding.

Once you’ve soaked up all that snowmobile-induced thrill, hop on over to the Methow Valley Ciderhouse, an easy ten-minute stroll from town that’s worth the jaunt. Picture this: a variety of locally crafted ciders just waiting for you to

For those who don’t ski, there are an array of snowmobile trails in the area.

sample while lounging on their deck, soaking up those sunbeams.

My tip? Dive into their sampler—the golden ticket to sipping through their diverse cider offerings. The ciderhouse also has a menu that stars sausages with an array of condiments.

Methow Valley Ciderhouse

Day

Snowmobile Winthrop

trip planner

An outdoor culture pervades at the Methow Valley Ciderhouse.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

89

EAT Arrowleaf Bistro www.arrowleafbistro.com Methow Valley Ciderhouse www.methowvalleyciderhousellc.com Rocking Horse Bakery www.rockinghorsebakery.com Three Fingered Jack’s Saloon www.3fingeredjacks.com

STAY

Jason Hummel Photography/State of Washington Tourism

WINTHROP, WASHINGTON

trip planner

Hotel Rio Vista www.hotelriovista.com Fawn Creek Hideaway www.methowreservations.com/ lodging/fawncreekhideaway

PLAY Methow Trails www.methowtrails.org Pearrygin Lake State Park www.parks.wa.gov Snowmobile Winthrop www.snowmobilewinthrop.com Trail’s End Bookstore www.trailsendbookstore.com Winthrop www.winthropwashington.com

Downtown Winthrop is a small, vibrant and walkable town with shops, bakeries and a good bookstore.

Day LOCAL FLAVOR • WILDLIFE VIEWING

Find bald eagles and other local wildlife at Pearrygin Lake State Park.

Final day feels! Ease into the morning with a leisurely start. Slide into Three Fingered Jack’s Saloon for breakfast and soak up the vibes. There’s a buzz about this spot—rumor has it, it might just hold the title of the oldest legal saloon in Washington.

Push those iconic saloon doors and step into a world brimming with billiards, pool tables and that timeless saloon atmosphere.

Split right down the middle, this joint’s got something for everyone: a 21-and-over bar on one side and a family-friendly dining haven on the other. And if it’s breakfast you’re after (available Friday to Sunday), they’re serving up some killer chicken-fried steak and eggs alongside eggs Benedict.

Let’s venture downtown before you hit the road and head home. Prepare for a

90 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

visual feast as you peruse the galleries and boutique stores. Marvel at skilled artisans at work in the glass-blowing studio and lose yourself in the pages of the locally owned, independent bookstore, Trail’s End Bookstore. Roaming through the galleries unveils a wealth of nature-inspired artwork, Western treasures, eclectic home decor and handcrafted jewelry.

It’s farewell time, but not without one last stop. Head to Pearrygin Lake State Park for some winter wildlife viewing. The park is home to various wildlife species.

Winter can be an excellent time for spotting creatures like deer, coyotes and even bald eagles against the snowy backdrop.

Trust me—it’s the perfect way to end your Winthrop adventure.

Over the river, AND Through the woods,

NEW EXHIBITION OPENS

MARCH 2, 2024

HIGHDESERTMUSEUM.ORG

Life is better on Washington’s Coast

northwest destination

Astoria

Sunset over the 4-mile AstoriaMegler Bridge connecting Oregon to Washington.

At Oregon’s edge and cultural center, Astoria melds maritime history, art and recreation written by Ryn Pfeuffer

LOCATED AT THE NORTHWESTERN tip of Oregon, where the Columbia River meets the Pacific Ocean, Astoria beckons with maritime tales in the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

But it’s not just history—expect stunning river vistas, hikes along the Astoria Riverwalk Trail and escapes to Fort Stevens State Park.

Discover Astoria’s brewery scene at Fort George Brewery and relish Pacific Northwest flavors in fresh seafood. Wander through Victorian downtown charm, peruse art galleries and embrace the welcoming community. Whether you crave history, outdoor thrills, great food or cultural immersion, Astoria has it all for an unforgettable coastal adventure.

Upon arrival, check into the chic and pet-friendly Bowline Hotel, which sits right on the river, then start your day with a leisurely walk along the Astoria Riverwalk Trail. The views of Youngs Bay and the Astoria-Megler Bridge from the 6-mile trail are magical. If it happens to be Sunday, explore the local crafts 92

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

and treats at the Sunday Market. While downtown, wander through shops and galleries. And don’t miss the chance to climb 164 steps to the observation deck at the Astoria Column for a panoramic view of the Columbia River.

Here’s the scoop: The Astoria Riverfront Trolley is your ticket to a history lesson with a view. From March to October (weather permitting), it cruises along the riverfront, letting you hop on and off as you please. Get ready for tales of maritime history, fish canning lore, Columbia River log jams and even a peek at the Goonies house and a Free Willy movie spot in an old fish cannery. It’s a slice of living history—and the scenery’s top-notch.

Later in the day, swing by the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Before diving in, catch the movie in the auditorium—it’s like a backstage pass to Columbia River history. Once inside, buckle up for a time-traveling experience through various eras, from pioneer and fur-trading days to the WWII era and right into the present.

ASTORIA, OREGON

Don Frank/Astoria-Warrenton Area Chamber of Commerce

northwest destination

EAT Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café www.bluescorcher.coop Bowpicker Fish & Chips www.bowpicker.com Fort George Brewery & Public House www.fortgeorgebrewery.com

STAY Bowline Hotel www.bowlinehotel.com

PLAY Astoria Column www.astoriacolumn.org Astoria Riverwalk Trail www.riverwalktrail.com

Astoria-Warrenton Area Chamber of Commerce

Astoria Riverfront Trolley www.old300.org Columbia River Maritime Museum www.crmm.org Fort Stevens State Park www.stateparks.oregon.gov

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Climb up to the Astoria Column in town. Fish and chips from Bowpicker, a unique foodboat. The visible wreck of the Peter Iredale, the four-masted ship that ran ashore in 1906.

From there, it’s a three-minute walk to the Bowpicker. It’s a food truck, but not your usual kind. It’s set up a fish and chips shop in an old gillnet boat. But there’s a twist—they use tuna instead of the usual cod or halibut in their signature dish. Expect a line, but it’s worth every minute. Check their socials before you go (www. twitter.com/Bowpicker). It’s open until they sell out, so bring cash and go big with the whole order, not just a half.

Just a quick jaunt up the road, you’ll hit Fort George Brewery & Public House, a whole city block packed with goodness—three restaurants, a tasting room, breweries, a cannery and even music venues all under one roof. Dive into an Electric Surfboard Double IPA—the can art by Larry Shuler of Shuler Surfboards is worth it.

Or, for something bold, grab a Michelada by the Foot, a concoction of fruit purée, tomato juice, hot sauce, lime juice, soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce.

Before heading to bed, slip into one of the Bowline’s little private saunas on the pier.

Rise and shine the following day at Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café. From French classics to specialty loaves, this worker-owned cooperative has it all. Indulge in their ginger chocolate cookies, Aunt Ethel’s macaroons or a slice of poppy seed loaf topped with blackberry glaze—perfect for vegans and gluten-free folks. Pair your choice with fair-trade, locally roasted coffee from Astoria Coffee Co. Right outside of Astoria is Fort Stevens State Park. It’s a massive playground spanning 3,763 acres. Picture this: superb beaches, trails snaking around for hiking and biking, plus a dose of history with its own fortress. And don’t skip the spooky yet captivating Peter Iredale shipwreck—its metal hull is a monument to its demise in 1906. Quick tip: Low tide is the magic hour for the best view. Some areas need an Oregon State Parks pass, $5 for a day or $30 for a year; other spots are free. Dog lovers, you’re in luck—it’s a pup paradise. Because this is Oregon, you can also drive right on the beach in certain areas.

FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE 93

1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Friday Harbor

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Port Angeles Townsend Sequim

Forks

Shelton Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Cathlamet

Kelso Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Pasco

Dayton

Asotin

Walla Kennewick Walla

Prosser

Goldendale Vancouver

94

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

12 Taste Chelan

38 Vermouth

80

Hibulb Cultural Center

18 San Juan Island Sea Salt

40 Museum of Pop Culture

81

Goldendale Observatory State Park

19 Carnal

42 Camp Hope

84

Outlook Inn

20 Bailey Farm

86

Methow Trails

34 Paper Whale

92

Astoria, Oregon

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH 2024

Until Next Time A red fox on the hunt on San Juan Island. photo by Brian Lackey

Enjoy Olympic Peninsula • Explore

• Discover

• Experience

Enjoy at e r G e th ors o d t u O

Travel Hood Canal, America’s Fjord, where fledgling eagles and elk are our antidotes to I-5 congestion.

From Sea -to -Summit & Canal -to -Coast www.EnjoyOlympicPeninsula.com