1889 Washington's Magazine | February/March 2020

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WASHINGTON February | March

volume 19

in your element adventure


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bellingham.org Mount Baker Ski Area


Community Boating Center Aslan Brewing Company

Spark Museum

No Guts, No Glory photography by Daniel Stark John Alberti has been rowing competitively for more than five decades, and he shows no sign of slowing down. This year he intends to compete in the world championships, as well as national and regional events. He and his teammates keep each other accountable, and he’s already got his eye on competitions in 2021. (pg. 36)



John Alberti has won multiple rowing competitions in his decades of racing.



54 Lodging For Every Travel Personality Whether you seek adventure, peace or pampering, we’ve got Washington’s best spots for a spring vacation. written by Corinne Whiting

FEATURES FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020 • volume 19

62 Revitalizing Four Washington Cities

68 Bring Up the Bones Outside Kennewick, students, teachers and volunteers are getting hands-on lessons in paleontology, geology and other sciences thanks to excavation at a mammoth dig site that’s been ongoing for nearly a decade.

There are cities around Washington that, at first glance, seem like their best days are past. But look closer, and you’ll see these cities are being reborn, using the beautiful bones that made them great in the first place. written by Kevin Max

Port of Everett

photography by Jackie Sharpe-Ravella





Get in touch with your emotions by streaming ings’ new album, and enjoy the compulsively readable The Haunting of Henry Davis.



Spokane’s Clover is a brunch must, and Cadée Distillery is making maritime whiskey out on Whidbey Island. Bonus—Reuben egg rolls!


Chocolate and Seattle seem to go hand in hand, and we’ve got the inside scoop on all the best places to find treats.


Three net-zero construction builds prove that environmentally friendly construction can be beautiful. Plus, learn how to improve your home’s energy efficiency.

36 MIND + BODY Lara Swimmer

John Alberti has been rowing for more than five decades, and just keeps collecting medals and winning races.


Sue Taves carves beautiful sculptures from stone, creating art that is addition by subtraction.




Eldergrow connects seniors with gardening opportunities, keeping their minds nimble and their hands busy.


Business travelers, rejoice: new hotels in Seattle, Spokane and Bellingham have you covered.


Seattle’s Jamie Margolin is a senior in high school. She’s also a well-known climate change activist with a forthcoming book.


Alex Garland

Wolf Haven International in Tenino takes care of animals that have been displaced or raised in captivity, giving them a safe home.


Northwest Battle Buddies connects veterans with service dogs that can help keep PTSD symptoms at bay.

10 11 86 88

Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time


Northern State Recreation Area is a quiet spot for a hike or bike ride, with a haunting past.


Fat biking is the great equalizer—it gets you outside in the winter, and the falls are cushioned by snow.


Hotel Maison in Yakima is steps from all the city has to offer, and a historic destination in its own right.



photo courtesy of Skamania Lodge Skamania Lodge tree houses (see Lodging For Every Travel Personality, pg. 54)



On Whidbey Island, the food, the views and the outdoor activities combine to help you get away from city life.


Coeur d’Alene is a beautiful place to visit any time of year, but spring is a great time to explore—without the crowds.


JACKIE SHARPE-RAVELLA Photographer Bring Up the Bones

ADAM SAWYER Writer Artist in Residence

As a freelance photographer living in the Pacific Northwest and an adventurer at heart, I was looking for something unique in the Tri-Cities. And I found it—a mammoth being excavated in Kennewick at the Coyote Canyon Mammoth Site. It seemed like a hidden gem. I felt like I was on a National Geographic expedition as a photographer. I spent several hours talking with subject matter experts and volunteers, and I was able to photograph the removal of a pretty significant bone. (pg. 68)

Last year I was on Whidbey Island the weekend of the Working Artists Open Studio Tours. I was repeatedly amazed by the amount of quality art being produced in every alcove of the island. While I enjoyed all the artists I met, Sue Taves demonstrated how she uses a diamond chainsaw to carve up columnar basalt. Between that act and seeing her finished work, I knew hers was a story I wanted to tell. (pg. 38)



CORINNE WHITING Writer Lodging For Every Travel Personality Getting to explore Washington is one of the great perks of my job, and I’ve come to appreciate the diversity of accommodations found within this state. Here I’ve stayed in my first casino hotel (decorated with surprisingly exquisite artwork), fallen deeply in love with rustic-chic lodges and discovered the joys of glamping, where you get to climb into your canvas tent’s comfy, spacious bed, campfire smoke still lingering in your hair. (pg. 54)

ALEX GARLAND Photographer Startup As someone who grew up helping in gardens and eventually had his own small patch of herbs and vegetables, I know the benefits of working with the earth extends far past the physical and into the mental and emotional wellbeing. You can see the excitement and familiarity in the faces of the Columbia Lutheran Home residents who gathered for an Eldergrow class on plant care. The mobile garden is built into a cart and made accessible for residents in wheelchairs. The staff and volunteers were caring and attentive and the joy of the residents was obvious as they cared for their gardens. (pg. 42)

EDITOR Kevin Max





Jenny Kamprath


Kennedy Cooper

Aaron Opsahl Cindy Miskowiec


Jackie Dodd


Melissa Dalton, Viki Eierdam, Nick Engelfried, Meghann Grah, Rob Kessler, Lauren Kramer, Ben Salmon, Adam Sawyer, Jean Chen Smith, Cara Strickland, Corinne Whiting


Jackie Dodd, Alex Garland, Meghann Grah, Jackie Sharpe-Ravella, Rich Spang, Daniel Stark, Hanna Voxland


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AT THIS TIME of year, there is snow and rain in the sky above, but love and the attractive redolence of chocolate in the air around us. The organic free-trade company Theo Chocolate brings a new experience to chocolate lovers at its Fremont headquarters, educating people about what the company is doing to change business as usual in cocoa farming and doling out sample chocolates along the way. Small batch chocolatiers such as indi and SELEUŠS make Seattle a world-class destination for chocolate lovers. Read more about where to go and what to melt in your mouth on pg. 24. For home chefs, our recipes include a chocolate peanut butter pot de crème with crunchy bits, among other things, that will win you friends and influence people (pg. 28). In this issue’s Home + Design, writer Melissa Dalton covers a topic that should be at the fore of every residential builder’s and buyer’s mind— net-zero construction. A bit of news in this piece is that builders such as Bellingham’s TC Legend Homes are learning how to deliver net-zero homes at the cost of a regular build, erasing cost as an excuse. We feature three net-zero homes (two in Seattle and a net-zero cabin in Cle Elum) with different styles but the same mission—to live well and do no environmental harm. Turn to pg. 30 to be inspired. Rebuilding is the metaphor for our feature on four Washington cities that are creating new experiences and a new culture on the classic, old bones of their downtowns. For this piece (pg. 62), we identified towns that casual onlookers wouldn’t at first identify as glamorous but, upon closer experience, see them as budding beauties of renovation. All of the pieces–the bones of historic buildings, affordable rent, new restaurateurs moving in to make a name for themselves and arts on the upswing–come together to tell a different story that makes them inspiring places to visit or to live. Finally, fat biking may not be as contrived as it seems at first. With fat, voluminous tires, cyclists have found a new way to extend the biking season on snow and in winter. In this issue’s Adventure piece, we head out to winter fat-bike trails in the

10          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


Jenn Redd


Methow Valley, a mecca for all things trail-related. As Winston Churchill once said, “No hour of life is lost that is spent in the saddle.” No matter what form of exercise helps you hold on to lost time, this one comes with a soft landing. Cheers!

1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1889 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1889mag.com/shop

washington: in focus Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Rita Costa Snowshoeing on the Lake Clara Trail at Mission Ridge, outside of Wenatchee. I took a detour and snowshoed out to the tree in the background. When I returned to the main trail, I looked back to see the sun resting on my tracks. Magical moments when you’re out in nature.

#1889WASHINGTON What does your Washington look like? Connect with us on social media by tagging your photos with #1889washington.




pg. 30 Net-zero construction can yield truly beautiful homes, such as this one in Seattle’s Madrona neighborhood.

Mark Woods Photography


say wa?

Tidbits & To-dos

camark y len our da r Holi Festival of Colors Holi, the festival of color, is a traditional Hindu festival celebrated in India, and Seattle’s Phinney neighborhood. The event features traditional Indian food, entertainment, and more than anything else, a vibrant celebration in which people throw packets of color at each other. With your ticket, you get two color packets, with others available at the site for $1. The Phinney Neighborhood Association runs the event, which was started by a neighbor who wanted to share her culture. www.phinneycenter.org ur yo ar k d ar m en

Tonik Cycling apparel



This Washington-based performance apparel company seeks to make apparel that looks good and feels good on all women’s bodies. Since starting out with the “perfect bike jersey,” the company has expanded to offer tanks, long sleeves and a cycling dress. With pretty prints and a bit more coverage than traditional options, these will become your go-to for working out. www.tonikcycling.com

Seattle Cake Con Go ahead, eat dessert first. In its second year, the Seattle Cake Con & Dessert Showcase is a one-stop shop to check out desserts made by industry professionals and other dessert-makers. You’ll find loads of samples, as well as a cake and pastry competition, panels full of tips for the home baker, and plenty more. The event, this year on February 16 and February 17 at Block 41, is also a benefit for the nonprofit Para Los Niños. www.seattlecakecon.com

14          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


say wa?

Alexandra’s Macarons Once you’re done with your New Year’s resolutions, look up Alexandra’s Macarons. This cookie food truck (and bakeshop as well) in Seattle focuses on the simple, exquisite delight of macarons, from the traditional flavors to seasonal, holiday ones. You can find them in stores around town, or order them online. www.alexandras macarons.com

Sarah Chrisman

F-Bomb Steeped Coffee Who knew your coffee habit could be a little more environmentally friendly? Spokane’s Roast House now sells F-Bomb single-serve steeped bags of coffee. Similar to teabags, they allow you to enjoy quality coffee everywhere you go without the wasteful disposable cup. Grab a mug, fill with hot water and steep. Then chuck the bag, knowing it’s compostable. www.roasthousecoffee.com

Port Townsend Victorian Heritage Festival It’s easy to see why Port Townsend is one of three Victorian seaports in the United States listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Each year, a festival honors that Victorian tradition. This year’s theme, “Great Expectations,” focuses on the city’s building boom, when the citizens of the port expected it to be the next great city. The event, March 20-22, includes a grand ball, a fashion show and a variety of other activities. www.vicfest.org

r ou r y rk da ma en



say wa?


Ingrid Chiles, who performs as ings, makes whimsical folk-pop music.

ings’ Wonderful, Whimsical World The Seattle folk-pop artist sets self-help mantras to song

Andrew Vasco

written by Ben Salmon

Listen on Spotify

INGRID CHILES WRITES and records and releases music under the name “ings,” but simply calling her a musician does not tell the whole story. “My natural being state is creating. I am a maker; that’s how I identify,” Chiles said. “I’m a guitar player. I’m a composer. I’m a pancake maker. I’m sometimes a babysitter. I make mobiles and I weave rugs and I make pottery and I paint. I like to sew things and design clothes and make songs and do Photoshop art and stuff like that.” If you’re wondering whether Chiles ever makes time to do nothing much at all, the answer is … sort of. “My life oscillates between periods of extreme productivity,” she said, “and then just sitting in one place thinking for hours.” Welcome to the wonderful world of ings, where songs sprout from self-help sayings and pastel colors cover every surface, as far as the eye can see. It’s a place where Chiles’ creative restlessness occasionally clashes with the need to actually finish projects, and where her natural tendency toward perfectionism regularly collides with hard deadlines. “At a certain point you just have to make a ‘Spock decision’ to be abstract and logical,” said Chiles, whose official photo features her giving the Vulcan salute from “Star Trek.” “You have to say, ‘This is going to be done and I’m going to behave as if it’s 16          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


done.’ Because improvement is never-ending. It can be a real blessing. It can also be a trap.” She’s talking about ings’ debut album Lullaby Rock, a collection of ten whimsical and melodic folk-pop songs with titles such as “No One Belongs Here More Than You,” “Pick Yourself Up” and “If Not You” (as in, “if not you, then who?”). There’s also a platonic love song for one of Chiles’ friends, moments of beautiful delicacy and ornate orchestration, and even a spoken-word track dedicated to guided meditation. More than anything, Lullaby Rock is the sound of Chiles moving to Seattle in her early 20s and figuring out how to be on her own. It’s a DIY gathering of growing-up mantras set to song. And it’s a promising debut from an artist who clearly has something to say. “I was going through some stuff, and I was just repeating these things to myself over and over again, so I made a song out of them,” Chiles said. “It’s more or less the things that I really needed to hear, and I think they’re things that other people probably need to hear, too.”

Located in the beautiful Okanagan Valley YOU DON’T NEED A VACAT ION, YO U N E E D A


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Wellness Retreats at Sparkling Hill Resort Work with our health professionals to tailor a retreat based on your individual goals with one of our 5 or 7 night wellness packages: 5 Night Whole Body Wellness

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visit www.sparklinghill.com or call 1-877-275-1556.

say wa?


Character Studies

Kathryn Siebel writes compulsively readable fiction interview by Kevin Max

KATHRYN SIEBEL, 59, grew up in Des Plaines, Illinois, a northwest suburb of Chicago. Fiction was her “salvation” for being a shy kid, and writing was always on her mind. Eventually she found her way to Seattle, where she wrote The Trouble with Twins and, in 2019, The Haunting of Henry Davis, a compulsively readable ghost story with a strong, young, female, self-styled ghost hunter. We sat down for an interview.

Kathryn Siebel is a fiction writer in Seattle.

Where did the idea for The Haunting of Henry Davis come from? Two things inspired me. One was a house—actually a great front door with oval glass, where I imagined Edgar, the ghost, suddenly materializing. And I’d seen an old picture of a large group of children posing in front of a local church. A boy in the photo caught my eye, and wondering what might have happened to him created Edgar.

give the Barbara Annes of the world? Children, like adults, have to learn to be themselves, I think. And what seems “bossy” in a girl is sometimes called “leadership” in a boy. Still, Barbara Anne is a little much, and she knows it. I think I’d tell a real-life Barbara Anne to take time to listen and to remember to be kind.

What are you working on now? I’m writing a middle-grade novel with a Nancy Drew vibe and an adult novel about a woman reconsidering her marriage with the help of three ghosts. Usually, I have more than one project going at a time. It’s helpful when I get stuck to have something else to jump to for a while.

Growing up, did you believe in ghosts? I never believed in ghosts, but I always loved ghost stories. I work with elementary school kids these days, and most of them seem to like ghost stories, too. They combine so many great elements—mystery, adventure, suspense.

Other writers always want to know about writing process. What is yours? I write most days, without ever waiting to be in the mood. My husband recently created a beautiful office for me, but I can write anywhere and have never believed in special places or lucky pens. I write longhand first, then move to the computer. I begin without an outline and go through several drafts. It’s a slow process, and the final product owes much to a great agent and talented editor who guide the way.

What has been your biggest challenge in transitioning from writing for kids to writing for adults? I haven’t published anything for adults yet, so it’s new territory for me, which is scary. One of the books I’m working on is similar to my other novels. It’s middle-grade fiction, humorous, with a strong female main character. But it has taken me a long time to return to writing, so I’d like to develop the ideas that come to me without boxing myself into any single category. I’m enjoying experimenting.

The character Barbara Anne is a compelling, precocious and bossy fifth-grader who has problems making friends. What advice can you

“I never believed in ghosts, but I always loved ghost stories. I work with elementary school kids these days, and most of them seem to like ghost stories, too. They combine so many great elements—mystery, adventure, suspense.” — Kathryn Siebel, author 18          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


Washington’s Lake District Lakewood, WA is home to seven lakes, some of the region’s finest

parks, spectacular gardens,

and bucket-list-worthy golf.


treasured landmark rising above downtown Walla Walla, the Marcus Whitman pairs its enviable historic pedigree with an unflinching commitment to modern-day luxury and exceptional service. Since opening in 1928, we’ve reigned as Walla Walla’s premier hotel, a hospitality hub deeply connected to the community and committed to showcasing the region’s wine country splendor. Book your next stay in Wine Country at The Marcus Whitman Hotel.



food + drink

FROM LEFT Cease and Desist offers beer curated from all over Washington. Friday Harbor is a scenic destination for beer tasting. San Juan Island Brewing is the gold standard for beer on the island.


When Island Time Hits Beer O’Clock written and photographed by Jackie Dodd WHEN THE WEATHER is just right, the sun allowed to take up more sky than usual, the air cold enough for a sweater but warm enough to leave you wondering if you really needed one to begin with, there isn’t a better place to wander between tap rooms than Friday Harbor. The quiet hum of the island reminds you there’s plenty of beer within walking distance, but it would take a boat ride to find traffic or even a stoplight. The island pace slows you down to enjoy the salt-stained air, forget to check your phone for a while, and really enjoy the beer in your glass. Even if the weather isn’t nice—the rain seeping through your shoes, the wind threatening to push inside your coat—the beer is just as good. The first place you should stop on your harbor beer tour is San Juan Island Brewing. Not just because, as its name implies, it’s the gold standard for beverages brewed on island, but also for the food served alongside that beer. It will be important as you begin your beer-drinking endeavors to start with a pizza

Cocktail Card

made with a craft beer-infused crust. San Juan Island Brewing is a quick walk from the ferry terminal, and is in a large, new space that’s both expansive and cozy. The beer is fantastic, raking in the awards just two years after opening, including a much-coveted Great American Beer Festival award and several Washington Beer Awards. This isn’t a space that you could mistake for merely “island good,” favored just for lack of options—this is a place that could stand up to brew pubs in the heart of Ballard. It is “big city good.” From there, make your way to the docks to a little space with a big beer soul, right against the water. Cease and Desist is a wellcurated multitap, pulling in sought-after beer from all over Washington and beyond. If a distributor won’t bring over a keg the owner requests, he has no problem spending the day on several ferries to bring back the beer he wants to pour, dedication that shows in the list of beer he offers. Friendly people, amazing pours, and an unbeatable view will keep you in your seat for hours. Once you’re ready for dinner, you won’t have to go far—Downriggers is just upstairs. Although the tap list isn’t huge, the offerings are good. If you want to play it a little more casual, Cask and Schooner is across the street with a bigger tap list and more casual fare—the food is decidedly British with a nod to the Pacific Northwest. If you want the best culinary experience on the island, Duck Soup (although not within walking distance) has that, along with a small but thoughtful beer menu. For a place to lay your head (you will not want to get on a ferry at this point) Earthbox Inn and Spa’s beautiful and expansive rooms are stumbling distance from the harbor, and they’ll even stock your fridge with San Juan Island beer upon request—you don’t even need to leave your room for a night cap.

recipe courtesy of Baker’s

•  1½ ounces blanco tequila •  ¾ ounce lemon •  ½ ounce Demerara syrup •  3 blackberries

The Ultimate Ninja

Shake tequila, lemon, syrup, blackberries and sage leaves, then strain on the rocks. Top with an ounce of ginger beer and one sage leaf.

20          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


•  6 sage leaves •  1 ounce ginger beer

There are only two seasons in Cannon Beach: summer and the magic season. Guess which one we prefer?


food + drink

CRAVINGS CARROT CAKE Although Tumwater Bakery serves pizza and all kinds of lunch items, I went straight for the carrot cake at the suggestion of my server. It was one of the best cakes I’ve ever had, leaving other carrot cakes far in the dust. If you’re a fan at all, be sure to get one of these. 219 9TH STREET LEAVENWORTH www.tumwaterbakery.com

REUBEN EGG ROLLS You probably didn’t even know this was a thing you could crave—these are crunchy and savory, like an egg roll, but with all of the flavors of a Reuben. Once you have this item at Lantern Taphouse, it will become something you crave. 1004 SOUTH PERRY STREET SPOKANE www.lanterntaphouse.com


Cadée makes what it calls maritime whiskeys.


Cadée Distillery written by Cara Strickland INSPIRED BY HIS SCOTTISH heritage and the beauty of Whidbey Island, Colin Campbell set out to make fine American spirits using the techniques and ideology of sixteenth-century Scotch producers, with his own innovative spin. The results are award-winning whiskeys in a variety of styles, along with three diverse gins and a vodka. Part of the magic is in the climate—Whidbey allows Campbell and his team to create spirits they refer to as maritime whiskeys, which take advantage of the longest coastal peat bog in North America, the unique barometric pressure caused by the local mountain ranges, and so many other elements that make up terroir. You can stop by the tasting room (it’s always a good idea to call or email ahead) or find these spirits all around the state (and beyond) in bars and retail establishments.

11111 NE 8TH STREET #125 BELLEVUE www.johnhowiesteak.com

SAKE This college town ramen restaurant is serious about its sake. Although O-Ramen doesn’t have a giant selection, it’s clear that each bottle has been chosen with purpose. There is something here for the sake newcomer, as well as those who have long enjoyed sipping it. 131 NORTH GRAND AVENUE PULLMAN www.o-ramen.com

8912 WA-525 CLINTON, WHIDBEY ISLAND www.cadeedistillery.com

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John Howie is a steakhouse bent on opulence, from the luxurious and gracious service to the carefully selected knives. The steak itself is chosen from the best in the world, and with a world-class wine and spirits list, you’ll find something decadent to wash it all down.


food + drink


CHOCOLATE SWEET MONA’S CHOCOLATE BOUTIQUE You’ll find candy and chocolate everywhere in this bustling shop. It’s warm and the air smells sweet—the sure sign of confections made on site. Aside from chocolate, you can also enjoy a full beverage bar and sundaes. 221 SECOND STREET LANGLEY www.sweetmonas.com

FRAN’S CHOCOLATES If you ask nicely, they might tell you the story of the smoked salt caramels the Obamas love. One taste will give you a sense of why—this family-owned company is serious about flavors and beautifully made pieces of chocolate for every occasion, and yes, there is a real Fran. She started making chocolate after a momentous trip to Paris. SEATTLE, BELLEVUE www.frans.com


Clover’s weekend brunch is a must.

From both classic and innovative flavors to the decorations on each piece, these chocolates are works of art. Try the Malbec, passion fruit, or the ever-soadult PB&J.


109 NORTH BEACH ROAD EASTSOUND www.kathryntaylorchocolates.com

written by Cara Strickland

SCHOCOLAT This chocolatier is tucked inside another shop, but when you find it, you’re in for a treat. Its specialty is handmade truffles made in a Belgian style on site. If you can’t make it in, Schocolat will ship to you. 834 FRONT STREET, SUITE D LEAVENWORTH www.schocolat.com

Clover LOCATED IN THE heart of the Gonzaga University District, Clover is a former single-family home which has been converted into a restaurant, now a fine-dining destination. On the menu you’ll find upscale American bistro food using local ingredients whenever possible. Though the food is always good, it’s the excellent service that earns this place a spot on the must-try map—allowing patrons to enjoy an oasis of care and calm. You won’t want to skip out on bread and dessert—Clover does its own baking. The wine list is always worth a look, as well as the cocktail list, which is seasonally updated. In season, the patio is a wonderful choice, and if you’re getting a little chilly, you might be offered a fuzzy blanket. Clover offers brunch on the weekends, enough reason to get out of bed. SPOKANE www.cloverspokane.com



farm to table

Farm to Table

For the Love of Chocolate Relish Seattle’s sweet side at bean-to-bar factories and local shops written by Corinne Whiting

ON A PERFECT DAY in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood, you may be enticed by the aroma of chocolate wafting up Phinney Ave. This should be your first clue that this city takes its desserts seriously—evidenced by the increasing number of factories and bean-to-bar shops popping up around town.

Factory Fun So what exactly is enchanting your olfactory system in Fremont? According to Theo Chocolate chief marketing officer Jason Harty, “You’re smelling our factory working in full swing. We make our chocolate from scratch, which means [neighboring] residents can smell the cocoa beans being roasted.” Theo Chocolate, founded in 2005, prides itself on being the first organic and Fair Trade-certified chocolate factory in North America. The company is anchored by the founding principle that a positive impact can be made through chocolate. While most companies source from large European companies, Theo procures cacao straight from farmers in Congo and Peru (meaning it can pay higher prices for higher-caliber cocoa beans). “This 24          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


enables us to have direct relationships with the farmers, and ensure we are using the best-quality ingredients,” Harty said. Just last year, Theo launched its new factory experience that explores every stage of the process at the Fremont HQ. “We want to give visitors a look into the origins of cacao, see how we craft our chocolate from scratch and learn about the close partnerships we’ve cultivated with the farmers we source from,” Harty said. Not only do tour-goers get behind-the-scenes glimpses of “where the magic happens,” they also taste delicious samples along the way. The team wants guests to leave feeling educated about the cocoa farm-to-chocolate bar journey, while truly understanding what makes Theo special. Being able to source ingredients has allowed for exploration with a variety of ingredients, creating unique


EXECUTION: SEASIDE SPECIAL SOMEONE 1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL FILE NAME: seaside_1889_8.25x5.06_estuary_special_2019.indd PUB: 1889 FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25" wide x 5.06" tall

Which is why Seaside, Oregon is full of places to make your next getaway extra romantic. Take the estuary—a beautiful spot perfect for long walks, sunset surveying and seabird spying. If you want to go the extra mile, pack a picnic and rent some kayaks. Paddle to the estuary in style, then break out the wool blanket, local beer and fresh crab. Your next romantic adventure is just a visit away to SeasideOR.com.

Fran’s Chocolates

farm to table

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Chocolate & Coffee Tours at Cedar & Spokes. Fran’s Chocolates caramels go through the enrober. Indi chocolate bars.

flavor profiles like Bread & Chocolate, Root Beer Barrel and Black Rice Quinoa Crunch. Harty explained that in addition to its nationally sold bars, professional chocolatiers in Theo’s confection kitchen also make handmade treats, available in the adjoining flagship store and online as well. “Theo Chocolate is committed to sourcing ingredients that not only support farmers, but also benefit consumers and the earth,” Harty said. “We want to make a positive impact, and we want to do that through chocolate.”

Market Magic Seattle’s historic Pike Place Market is another wonderful place to meet local artisans who value real ingredients, sound sourcing and a connection to their customers. Eat Seattle offers daily Chocolate & Coffee Tours that explore some of downtown’s most tempting treasures. (In fact, on a recent tour, it doled out squares of Theo at the first stop—Cedar & Spokes Coffee & Bar.) On approximately two-hour walkabouts, chefs lead participants to seven rotating locations that serve small bites and sips. The sweetest news? All spotlighted companies are local businesses, ranging from such brands as indi chocolate, which sources cacao beans directly from farmers and cooperatives to make small-batch, single-origin dark chocolate, to SELEUŠS, a line of haute chocolate truffles by chocolatier Alexander Lóng, who uses French traditions and fresh ingredients such as real rose petals. True aficionados can’t visit Seattle without stopping into Fran’s Chocolates—a family-owned confectionery that’s 26          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


been dazzling shoppers since 1982 (among its super fans: President Obama).

Chef-Driven Creations Maximillian Petty, executive chef and owner of Eden Hill Restaurant and Eden Hill Provisions, has been obsessed with chocolate since he could walk. He now follows a hard rule of baking only with chocolate he would eat as a snack. “It melts, emulsifies, whips! It has lots of fats, carbs, natural toasty sweetness,” he said. “The combination of these and other aroma notes creates a special chemical signature that my brain loves.” Among his recent creations: a Mexican hot chocolate aerated from an iSi charger that he describes as “beautiful silky texture and warm memory of hot chocolate as a kid, but upgraded.” Then there’s the chocolate cremeux, or “Eden Hill snack pack.” “It is luscious and again has notes of childhood, with the luxury of where my life is now,” Petty said. “It is smoked out of a glass yogurt cup with a sealed lid with cocoa nib granola and fried brioche and cheesecake curd.” Petty advises minimalism for home chefs. “When baking with higher-quality or darker chocolates, go minimal,” he said. “Let the process of baking or melting bring out what it already provides. Match it with a good sea salt, and that’s really all you need. Always take it slow, and melt delicately over a double boiler.” He’s also a fan of experimenting with more savory recipes, folding the chocolate into sauces to add nutty, earthy and deep notes.





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farm to table

Washington Recipes

Choose Chocolate Zuccotto

Tulio / SEATTLE Daniela Fernández Reynoso SERVES 4 FOR BRANDIED CHERRIES •  1 pound pitted Washington cherries •  2 cups water •  2 cups sugar •  1 cinnamon stick •  1 star anise •  4 allspice peppercorns •  2 tablespoons brandy FOR MOUSSE •  10 ounces bittersweet chocolate •  1 ounce butter •  1¼ cup heavy cream •  5 egg yolks •  1 egg white •  1 tablespoon sugar FOR BRANDIED CHERRIES In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, cinnamon stick, star anise and allspice and boil until sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Cool down, then add brandy and cherries. Refrigerate overnight. FOR MOUSSE Grease a heatproof bowl. Place

chocolate and butter into bowl, then place over a barely simmering bath of water and stir with a wooden spoon until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Let cool. In a separate container, whip heavy cream with an electric hand mixer until it forms a soft peak. Place in refrigerator to keep cool. Using the mixer, whisk the egg yolks, egg white and sugar until pale and fluffy. Using a spatula, slowly fold the cooled-down chocolate into the egg mixture until smooth. Then, fold the heavy cream into the egg and chocolate mix. TO ASSEMBLE Line a bread pan with parchment paper. Spread half of the mousse into the pan, then add half of the brandied cherry mixture on top, then layer the rest of the mousse over the brandied cherries and smooth out. Refrigerate mousse for a minimum of 4 hours. Place remaining cherry mixture in refrigerator as well. Once mousse is set, carefully remove from the pan, and remove paper. Using a warm knife, slice the mousse into 1- or 2-inch slices. To plate, spread a small amount of the remaining cherry mixture onto a dessert plate, then place the slice of mousse atop the cherries.

Chocolate Porter Cake

Alderbrook Resort / UNION Ben Jones SERVES 8 FOR CAKE •  8 ounces eggs •  8 ounces milk •  7½ ounces canola oil •  4 teaspoons vanilla extract •  2½ cups sugar •  3½ cups all-purpose flour •  1½ cups cocoa powder •  2 teaspoons salt •  3 teaspoons baking powder •  3 teaspoons baking soda •  24 ounces porter beer, heated FOR PORTER BROWN SUGAR BUTTERCREAM •  1 cup porter beer •  1 cup brown sugar •  12 ounces butter, softened •  1 teaspoon salt •  2 cups powdered sugar FOR CAKE Mix together eggs, milk, oil, vanilla and sugar in stand mixer. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, salt, baking powder and baking soda and add to mixture. Beat on low speed for 3 minutes and add hot porter. Mix until combined, then scrape bowl and mix for one more minute. Pour 24 ounces of mixture into lined, 8-inch cake rounds. Bake at 350 degrees until cake bounces back when pressed. Remove cake from cake pans and let cool on a wire rack. FOR PORTER BROWN SUGAR BUTTERCREAM Heat the porter and brown sugar in a saucepan until the brown sugar dissolves. While that’s cooling, mix together the butter, salt and powdered sugar until combined. Add the porter and brown sugar mixture and beat until fluffy.

FROM LEFT Zuccotto from Tulio mixes chocolate and cherry flavors. Alderbrook’s Chocolate Porter Cake uses beer.

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TO ASSEMBLE Trim cake rounds to level and cut in half. Build cakes with three layers of chocolate porter cake and two layers of brown sugar buttercream. Cover in chocolate porter buttercream and cut into 8 slices. Decorate with gold leaf.

farm to table

Shaker + Spear’s Chocolate Peanut Butter Pot de Crème.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Pot de Crème with Crunchy Bits Shaker + Spear / SEATTLE Carolynn Spence SERVES 4 FOR CHOCOLATE CUSTARD •  12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips •  2 cups heavy cream •  2¼ cups milk •  8 egg yolks •  3 tablespoons granulated sugar FOR PEANUT BUTTER WHIP •  ½ cup sugar •  1 cup heavy cream •  ¾ pound cream cheese •  1 cup sugar •  1½ cup peanut butter FOR CHOCOLATE CUSTARD Set chocolate chips in a large, dry bowl. Bring cream and milk to a boil, then bring the temperature to low. Whisk together egg yolk and sugar, then temper the eggs by pouring a couple ladles of the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture. Pour the rest of the eggs into the hot milk mixture and stir gently. Mixture should get a bit thick and feel smooth and velvety, but quickly remove from heat to avoid scrambling the eggs, and continue stirring the mixture. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer over the chocolate chips, stirring until chocolate is completely melted and smooth. The custard will need to set in the refrigerator for a couple hours. The custard can be made a day or two ahead. FOR PEANUT BUTTER WHIP Whip the ½ cup sugar and heavy cream until you have soft peaks, then set aside in the refrigerator. In a mixer, use the paddle attachment to


FOR VANILLA WHIP •  8 ounces heavy cream •  ¼ cup granulated sugar •  1 teaspoon vanilla extract FOR CRUNCHY BITS •  16 Oreo cookies, smashed or lightly pulsed in food processor •  2 tablespoons salted peanuts, pulsed in food processor •  2 tablespoons semisweet chocolate chips, pulsed in processor whip the cream cheese until it is smooth, creamy and light. Slowly add the 1 cup sugar and continue until creamy. Add in peanut butter and mix just until it’s combined. Fold in whipped cream mixture, then set aside peanut butter whip in the refrigerator. FOR VANILLA WHIP Whip the cream, sugar and vanilla until you have soft peaks. FOR CRUNCHY BITS Mix salted peanuts, chocolate chips and four of the crushedup Oreos together. TO ASSEMBLE In four glasses of your choosing, create a first layer with the remaining 12 crushed Oreos, layering them evenly and equally. Next, layer the peanut butter whip, making it smooth and even on top with a hot, clean spoon. Next, layer the chocolate custard. Finally, top with vanilla whip and the crunchy mixture.


home + design

Future Prep Three net-zero home designs all have the same goal: to produce as much energy as the owners use written by Melissa Dalton

West Seattle: Not Just Net Zero BUILDING GREEN BECAME an option for Andri Kofmehl and Veena Prasad when their 2014 house search mostly turned up older homes that required too much upkeep. “I don’t think we even owned a drill,” Prasad said. They considered purchasing a teardown and building new, but since construction can be so energy-intensive and wasteful, they would only do that if their home could be sustainable and with a very low ecological footprint—all within a fairly modest budget, by Seattle standards. Enter Ted Clifton, co-owner of the Bellingham-based TC Legend Homes, a company that specializes in the construction of net-zero homes for the same cost as a traditionally built house. “They

wanted to push the envelope even farther [than energy efficiency] and see, ‘OK, how green can we go with the money we have?’” Clifton said. The group opted to strive for an Emerald Star rating from BuiltGreen, a certification program from the Master Builders Association of King and Snohomish Counties. In Emerald Star homes, net-zero energy is one prong of a holistic approach that includes reducing the home’s water consumption and integrating healthy building materials, among other tenets. The subsequent three-story West Seattle home was designed for flexibility and future use. It features a groundlevel, one-bedroom apartment that can be used for an aging family member, houseguests, or as a rental. That’s topped by two floors for the couple, their 5-year-old twins, and Prasad’s mother. There are the common eco-elements, such as low-flow toilets, energy-saving appliances and a solar array, as well as the less common, like a 10,000-gallon rainwater storage and filtration system that reduces their draw by 76 percent. “I love the rainwater because I don’t like how chlorinated city water tastes,” Prasad said. Thick insulation, Structural Insulated Panel construction, and triple-paned windows prevent

This West Seattle home earned an Emerald Star rating from BuiltGreen, without sacrificing any beauty.

Photos: Yuriy Manchik

The home has a 10,000-gallon rainwater storage and filtration system.

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Friday Harbor



Camano Island

Port Townsend

The Resort is home to a beautiful 37-room boutique waterfront inn, The Fireside Restaurant featuring award winning wine selections and farm to table dining, 30+ miles of hiking trails, kayak rentals at a 300-slip marina, and a championship 18-hole golf course. If you’re looking for somewhere to play, explore, indulge and relax, come experience Port Ludlow.



Kingston Bainbridge Island

www.PortLudlowResort.com | 360.437.7000


Three Destinations Three Adventures Olympic National Park & Forest

Lake Quinault Lodge Open Year Round

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort Opens March 20

Lake Crescent Lodge Opens April 24

Your next adventure begins at www.olympicnationalparks.com or call 888-896-3818 take a virtual tour

Lake Crescent Lodge & Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, are managed by Aramark, an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service. Lake Quinault Lodge is managed by Aramark, an authorized concessioner of the U.S. Forest Service.

Madrona: A Modern Passive Home Jabe Blumenthal has long worked in the climate change and clean energy fields, at one time as a board member at the Bullitt Foundation when the organization was building the world’s greenest office building—the Bullitt Center, a six-story “Living Building” in downtown Seattle. When it came time for Blumenthal and wife, Julie, to build their own project on a stunning Madrona lot, they opted to construct a Passive House, a rigorous, high-performing building standard that drastically minimizes a home’s energy load. The couple hoped their project might nudge the local market. “The idea was if we and twenty other people build houses like this in Seattle, that will help drive up the number of companies that know how to build these houses and drive down the cost,” said Blumenthal, who teamed up with SHED Architecture + Design, Hammer & Hand and Passive House expert Dan Whitmore. For the interiors, the couple wanted “simplicity of materials and design, ease of cleaning and maintenance, open floorplan, and then views, views, views,” Blumenthal said. Now, concrete floors and artful walnut cabinetry with a medley of colorful doors are woven throughout, encased in an airtight shell with expansive triple-paned windows overlooking Lake Washington. A solar array ensures the home produces the annual energy demands of the house and the electric car charging in the driveway. The house was the first Passive House that SHED principal Prentis Hale designed. These 32          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


Lara Swimmer

unnecessary air leaks, while an HRV system supplies continuous fresh air. “We have a very tight envelope and thanks to the heat-recovery ventilation, we always have fresh air in the house,” Kofmehl said. During construction, Clifton’s team did rigorous research to meet BuiltGreen’s requirements, installing Forest Stewardship Council-certified lumber and no-VOC paint, and avoiding PVC, a chemical that can be found in everything from plumbing pipe to vinyl windows. “We had to scrutinize every single building material,” Clifton said. All in a day’s work for a company that regularly seeks to upend common assumptions. “Most people either don’t realize it’s possible or think it’s just going to be wildly expensive, not cost-effective,” Clifton said of building to net-zero standards. “Our goal as a company is to turn that tide.”

Mark Woods Photography

home + design

Mark Woods Photography

home + design

TOP, FROM LEFT The Madrona home has concrete floors and colorful walnut cabinets. The home overlooks Lake Washington. BOTTOM LEFT The Cle Elum home has open living spaces and a separate space for the kids.

days, hitting the highest level of energy efficiency possible is always a part of the firm’s brief when working with clients on new builds. “For new houses, we try to only take on projects where a client is going to achieve a net-zero standard. They don’t necessarily need to certify it, but it needs to be part of the conversation,” Hale said. “If you have an experienced design firm and interested contractor, you can get houses to perform really well without too much effort, just by being conscientious builders and designers.”

Cle Elum: A Rustic and Refined Net-Zero Family Cabin When repeat clients approached architect Matthew Coates of Coates Design Architects to design a family cabin on Tumble Creek in the Suncadia Resort area east of the Cascades, there were a few musts. The floorplan needed to accommodate large family gatherings, so two ensuite bedrooms facilitate privacy while the open living spaces connect everyone together in one fluid move. A bunkhouse handles the younger contingent, providing a separate place for the kids to get loud, play video games and plug in for band practice. Most importantly, the home was designed to be net zero, to produce as much or more energy than its occupants consume. That

just made sense for the clients, who had worked with Coates before to design and build the first LEED Platinum home in Washington outside of Seattle. “They’re just the type of people that believe that setting an example and doing the right thing is part of what they want their legacy to be,” Coates said. Coates’ design lets the house meld with its setting. Materials such as board-formed concrete, Cor-ten steel and reclaimed barnwood evoke the colors of the surrounding scenery. A cantilevered roof with deep eaves strikes a dramatic profile while adhering to passive solar design principles—admitting low-lying winter sunshine and blocking harsh summer rays. The angle and position of the roof is ideal to support its 10 kWh PV solar panel array, and the entire system is engineered to include a Tesla Powerwall as soon as it becomes available. When striving for optimal energy efficiency in home design, Coates said, the sweet spot is being able to combine efficient appliances and mechanical systems with a tight building envelope, and supply it all with clean energy, such as wind or solar. Getting that combination right ensures a home lives well into the future—like this cabin, which is intended “not just for now,” Coates said, “but also for the generations to come down the road.”



home + design

DIY: Energy Efficiency For Historic Homes IT’S POSSIBLE TO make upgrades for energy efficiency to historic homes without sacrificing the house’s character. The following steps are suggested by the Environmental Protection Agency.

COMPLETE AN ENERGY AUDIT An energy audit is when an evaluator identifies the location of air leaks in the home. This is a good starting point for identifying the problem areas.

AIR SEALING According to the EPA, “Gaps or cracks in a building’s exterior envelope of foundation, walls, roof, doors, windows and especially ‘holes’ in the attic floor can contribute to energy costs by allowing conditioned air to leak outside.” Sealing up those air leaks is a doable DIY for the homeowner, and there is an online Energy Star guide available to lead you through it.

PURCHASE EFFICIENT HEATING AND COOLING SYSTEMS When it comes time to replace an appliance or mechanical system, check out energy-efficient models. For instance, the hot water heater comprises 13 percent of the utility bill. Opting for a hybrid or tankless hot water system might cost more up front, but will save on energy use and future bills.

PROTECT WOOD WINDOWS Wood windows bring a lot of character to a historic home, and the wood used for those older units is often superior, old-growth wood. Keep wood windows in good condition by staying up on repairs, protecting them with a storm window, and adding weather stripping and caulk to prevent air leaks. Just be sure to follow all safety guidelines when dealing with lead paint, which is often found in homes built before 1978.

INSULATE RIGHT As anyone who has a historic home knows, it’s a mystery as to what’s inside the walls. While it might seem like insulating walls is a must, the EPA suggests tackling other key areas first—attic spaces, crawl spaces, basements, around heating and cooling ducts and around water pipes.

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Source: www.archive.epa.gov Illustrations: Allison Bye

home + design

Modern Eco-Wares Go green with these products designed to reduce waste

Not sure how to cook the beets and their greens? Waste Not from the James Beard Foundation has you covered, as it features a hundred recipes from various chefs who incorporate every leaf, stem and rind that might otherwise get chucked. www.elliottbaybook.com

A stainless-steel tiffin is the perfect lunch box. Not only is it dishwasher and oven-safe, the compartments allow food groups to stay separate, so come chow time, there’s no soggy bread underneath that caprese sandwich. www.ecocollectiveseattle.com

The Seattle store, Public Goods and Services, bills itself as a neighborhood low-waste living shop. It has shelves full of refillable bulk goods, from laundry soap to tooth powder, and a plethora of plastic alternatives, like the Danish-designed, heat-resistant borosilicate glass bottle. (That’s the same glass used in labs.) www.apublicshop.com



mind + body

Rowing Through Retirement

John Alberti finds fitness and friends in his lifelong sport written by Viki Eierdam photography by Daniel Stark

John Alberti has won many awards in his decades of rowing.

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mind + body

John Alberti Oarsman

Age: 75 Born: Seattle Residence: Vancouver


John Alberti works out on his rowing machine.

BACK IN 1964, John Alberti was a sophomore at the University of Washington, seeking a sport to balance out the academic side of his college experience. More than fifty-five years later, rowing has carried him into his retirement years with no plans of hanging up his oars. At 75 years old, Alberti still consults part-time as an acoustical engineer, but he’s just as likely to be found on his Erg Concept 2 rower, rowing a nearby lake or crossing the big pond in a jet to compete in an international rowing competition. That’s exactly what he did last September when he traveled to Budapest for the 2019 FISA World Masters Rowing Championship, held on Lake Velence, and returned home with two gold medals. The 2019 regatta was his third worldlevel competition and he already has his eyes on the 2020 championship in Linz, Austria. Having won the men’s fours twice in a row now at the FISA World Masters, he and his crew feel dutybound to defend their title. Typically part of a doubles shell, Alberti also competes in quads and as a team of eight. The strong camaraderie found in rowing is a large draw for him. Through hundreds of competitions over

the years, Alberti has friends in places like Australia, Belgium, the Netherlands and France, as well as all over the U.S. Alberti has been rowing with the same mixed doubles partner for nearly four years. Since the gold in their category eluded the duo by mere seconds in 2019, Alberti sees 2020 in Austria as “unfinished business.” Standing at 6 feet 3 inches, Alberti does not take his health lightly. Now residing in a senior living center that helps him care for his wife of nearly thirty-eight years, he is surrounded by daily reminders of how lifestyle and factors beyond a person’s control can weaken an aging body. “This sense of being around people who are very functional and very active, it becomes part of your world,” Alberti said. After NW Ergomania and Big Climb Seattle in the first quarter of 2020, USRowing NW Masters Regional and National Championships will keep Alberti in top form through the summer before he heads off to FISA in September. Fall brings sprint race season, bookended by Head of the Charles in Boston and Head of the Lake on Lake Washington. As long as Alberti has a say in it, he’ll be primed to do it all again in 2021. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020

John trains on and off the water throughout the year. A lymphoma survivor, John challenges his endurance during the Big Climb Seattle, a 69-story run up the Columbia Center held each March. During race season, John’s workouts consist of three highintensity interval training sessions per week (on the water or his Erg Concept 2), two weight-training sessions a week and a weekly circuit-training round with a fitness coach. NW Ergomania, an indoor rowing event, keeps him honest through the winter.

NUTRITION A balanced diet of fruits and vegetables with a focus on quality proteins is the foundation of John’s eating plan. He aims for more than 100 grams of protein per day, including skim milk with each meal, protein powder in oatmeal, eggs for breakfast, low-fat yogurt and high-protein snacks to fill in gaps. He has fish oil every day for the omega-3s and opts for a banana and green tea for dessert.

INSPIRATION It’s been John’s experience that an oarsman stays in shape for his teammates. His circle of rowing friends exchange articles about nutrition, workouts, rowing mechanics and “goad each other into doing stuff.” John was also fortunate to be mentored by two icons in the NW rowing scene who have since passed away— Dick Erickson, former coach at the University of Washington, and Frank Cunningham, former coach at the Lake Washington Rowing Club, among others.


artist in residence

Sue Taves’ work “Torso” was made from pyrophyllite, a mineral.

No Looking Back Sue Taves breaks new ground with her sculpture on Whidbey Island written by Adam Sawyer

Michael Stadler

SUE TAVES’ FIRST stone sculpture was a 6-inch Winnie the Pooh, made of honey alabaster for her high school art class. She still has it. “I love everything about stone,” she said. “Its color, history, solidity, how it changes in the elements to make forms, its variety, its plainness. Rock is everywhere, it’s a functional material, it’s an art material, it’s the ground under our feet and the mountains that can be climbed. It’s minerals, in all combinations, kind of like humans. Each with its own form, texture, color and hardness. It’s the earth, it’s got its own vibration, life.”


2020 2020

FROM TOP Sue Taves works on a sculpture. Taves’ piece “Wings,” made from Pennsylvania blue on limestone.

Michael Stadler

In a parking lot next to a Wells Fargo on Whidbey Island, a nondescript warehouse is home to the Freeland Art Studios. It is where a group of twelve working artists of various disciplines collectively produce inspired works that belie the generic building’s shell. Taves is one of them. Whidbey Island is known as an artist enMORE ONLINE clave and a community that welcomes creSee more of Taves’ ativity with open arms. “I’d lived in other creations at www. artist-rich areas before,” Taves said. “Here I suetavessculpture.com was invited to show my work in a community gallery, the Front Room Gallery, within six months of arriving in town, and the reception was packed, and I sold quite a few sculptures. That’s the kind of support that you find here. People welcome you, artists and non-artists alike, and take time to get to know you and are generous with their time and expertise.” While the island’s art-loving community has a well-earned reputation for fostering and supporting all creativity, Taves’ talent and spirit possess their own eye-catching shine. Her extraction of color, form and emotion from stone through the use of sandpaper of every grit, chisels of all sizes, and even a diamondstudded chainsaw, can be arresting. The “Broken/Mended Heart” series, a collaboration with fellow Whidbey artist Zia Gipson, is a prime example. The figurative and literal exploration of heartbreak via heart-shaped stone renderings in various states of use, abuse, destruction and reconstruction is thoughtprovoking, wrenching and redemptive. The yang to the “Broken/Mended Heart” yin is her “Wave” series—soothing, inspirational and texturally gratifying. The jagged edges and purposeful imperfections of the previous series are replaced here by flawless glass-like contours, complemented by natural rock textures. “I see stone and often I see what it can be—nature, beauty, the human figure, ideas. Mostly translating ideas and beauty into stone—making hard appear soft, rigid appear flowing,” she said. “If people come up to my sculpture and automatically want to touch it, I feel I’ve been successful.” Taves was drawn to stone as a medium for a laundry list of reasons, not the least of which that stone carving or sculpting uses subtraction, or controlled removal from the medium, as opposed to additive forms of art where the medium is applied and re-applied, like painting. “I love subtracting stone. It’s like unpeeling to see the beauty underneath. I love that the lessons of sculpting are life lessons—learning how much to take away and how much to keep, learning to listen and to work with another, learning to be patient. I learned that subtraction is a good method for me because I tend to perfectionism, or I used to anyway. And that led me to indecisiveness, wanting both things, so stopping at the fork in the road,” she said. “With additive, you can always second guess your decisions and add that more material back. With stone, once you’ve decided, you have to keep moving forward. No second guesses. Good practice to accept the decision you’ve made, to move forward from the present moment.” As any artist will tell you, the creative process is about far more than just the end result. It is, in fact, the act that means

Don Wodjenski

artist in residence

as much as anything. But there are also the intangibles of doing what you do, where you do it, and who you get to do it with. “Sculpting is my meditation, my therapy, my way to learn about myself, which all sounds pretty well-adjusted and mature,” Taves said. “But it doesn’t reflect the whole picture. It’s also about having a community of like-minded friends who bond over rocks and stone dust. It’s about playing with tools and lifting heavy things and working using my body. It’s about tapping into the joy of finding ‘the coolest rock ever,’ just like when you’re 5, over and over again.” Taves’ love for her medium and the inspiration she draws from it are as abundant as her actual supply. “I’ve collected a lot of stone over time, literally tons—5 tons came home from Italy with me last spring to add to the pile,” she said. “Spending time walking through it and sitting on it for lunch is one of my favorite activities.” FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020



pg. 42 Eldergrow connects senior communities with gardening.

Alex Garland




Bloom Where You’re Planted Eldergrow connects senior living facilities with gardening, to great success written by Viki Eierdam photography by Alex Garland 42          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE



AS WE AGE, our ability to access the outdoors decreases. In particular, seniors residing in assisted living communities can be challenged by mobility issues, weather or staffing needs. Orla Concannon, a Seattle University graduate, noticed this firsthand while working with the elderly, and came up with a solution that she refers to as a salt-of-the-earth startup. After attending college in Ireland, Concannon worked for the Alzheimer Society of Ireland as well as Aegis Living, headquartered in the Puget Sound. In 2013, she decided to pursue a healthcare-focused MBA. Part of her coursework was to create a health care-focused business plan that solves a problem. Choosing to combat the phenomenon of seniors spending less time outdoors, Concannon set out to bring nature indoors, and Eldgergrow took root in 2015. Establishing herb and flower gardens inside senior living communities across the United States, Eldergrow is stressing seniors’ importance and enriching their golden years. The two key components to Eldergrow are therapeutic horticulture tailored to memory and skilled-care facilities, and a culinary herb garden designed for independent and assisted living. The latter pulls from the farm-to-fork movement and also brings nature indoors. If these were just gardens fully accessible to seated, wheeled or standing gardeners, that would add a welcome tactile layer of therapy. In fact, studies show that gardening helps seniors maintain and strengthen fine motor skills, interact socially, employ cognitive capacity and improve behavioral challenges brought on by dementia. Eldergrow also provides an on-site educator who comes to the senior community to teach gardening, maintain the garden and measure and monitor wellness goals for residents. Classes such as garden art bring out the artistic background of residents, while seed-propagating classes may remind memory or skilled-care residents of a past farming background. Concannon has personally found that these encounters spark positive memories. Born to Irish parents, Concannon spent most summers in Ireland and developed a strong bond with her grandmother, Theresa Concannon. Because of that relationship, she became more aware of her community of elders and believes the elderly are underserved. “One of the reasons I chose the name Eldergrow is that I feel very strongly that humans can grow at all ages of life—emotionally, spiritually (and) professionally,” Concannon said. Eldergrow was launched with award money after Concannon won business startup competitions at Seattle University and University A Columbia Lutheran Home resident works in an Eldergrow garden. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020



CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Eldergrow garden at Columbia Lutheran Home. Instructor Thom Wert leads a recent Eldergrow class at Columbia Lutheran Home on planting, watering and caring for new plants. A resident works on a “garden fairy” to be placed in the garden.

of Washington. From there, its growth into twenty-one states and more than 125 communities has been, until recently, entirely self-funded. In 2019, nonprofit senior advocacy organization LeadingAge Washington asked Eldergrow to bring its therapeutic horticulture program to skilled nursing facilities throughout Washington. This unlocked state grant dollars specifically earmarked for skillednursing communities. Eldergrow is not just capturing the attention of states with reputations for being environmentally friendly. Concannon is pleasantly surprised by the organization’s growth in Texas and thinks it’s indicative of how the senior sector is growing there. She sees the senior living industry trying to raise the bar and provide innovative programs. At the 2019 California Assisted Living Annual Conference, Concannon spoke to a standing-room only group of 150 people, there to hear her evidence-based studies on nature therapy in

senior living facilities. One of her studies showed that distractions with nature have a positive impact on people, and that seeing a bird outside at a bird feeder is more grounding and calming than checking the screen of a smartphone. Even soil has been shown to release calming serotonin in the brain. The statistic that still blows Concannon away is that gardening on a daily basis reduces dementia by 36 percent … and it’s nonpharmacological. Given all of this data, Eldergrow is always looking for ways to grow sustainably. In order to offer its culinary herb garden program, it partners with an herb nursery in the Southeast that ships herbs to customers every month, in tandem with its herbof-the-month program. Eldergrow is actively seeking an herb nursery on the West Coast, or in the Northwest, that can grow and ship herbs. Looking ahead, Eldergrow will continue to focus on innovative ways of connecting seniors to the outdoors, and is considering a model that could take gardens into seniors’ private residences.

“One of the reasons I chose the name Eldergrow is that I feel very strongly that humans can grow at all ages of life—emotionally, spiritually (and) professionally.” — Orla Concannon, Eldergrow founder 44          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


Meet me in centralia

Explore i n 360 Downtowncentralia.org

What’s Going Up

King of the Road Master your business travel with these new hotels around the state written by Sheila G. Miller NEW HOTELS CONTINUE to pop up around Washington. In Spokane, a Cambria Hotel is under construction and expected to open near the airport by mid-year. The hotel is expected to be four stories and include ninety-one rooms. Cambria Hotels are designed with upscale amenities, often for business travelers. The hotel will have Bluetooth mirrors, a fitness center and dining on site. In Bellingham, a Hampton Inn is expected to open in summer 2020, just a short time after the city’s previous Hampton Inn was turned into a Best Western Plus. The new hotel is expected to be a five-story, ninety-eight room property at the north end of the city near the airport. When the hotel is completed, according to the Bellingham Herald, it will be the fifth hotel built in the area in seven years. In Seattle, citizenM plans to open a 264-room hotel on South Lake Union in June 2020. The hotel will be citizenM’s first on the West Coast. Rooms at the hotel feature rooms controlled by MoodPads (iPads, essentially), as well as XL king-size beds and other amenities for busy travelers.

In Seattle, citizenM plans to open its first West Coast hotel in June.



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what i’m working on

Giving Youth a Voice

Jamie Margolin leads the way on climate change interview by Nick Engelfried

JAMIE MARGOLIN OF Seattle is a senior in high school, but she’s already an internationally recognized climate change activist. In 2017, at age 16, she and other teens launched an organization called Zero Hour to coordinate a youth-led climate march in Washington, D.C. Zero Hour went on to spearhead educational campaigns, hold a climate activism summit in Miami, and organize youth-led strikes and rallies. Margolin recently returned home from a speaking tour in Europe, where she addressed international audiences and received an MTV EMA Generation Change Award. She’s been writing a book, Youth to Power, coming out in June 2020 and available for preorder at www.youthtopowerbook.com. How did you get involved in climate activism? I had been concerned about climate change for a long time, but it seemed like such a dauntingly huge problem I didn’t know where to start making a difference. One of my mom’s coworkers was involved in a group called Plant for the Planet and recommended I reach out to them. Soon I was working with them all the time. I went to Olympia to lobby members of the state legislature on a climate bill, testified at hearings and spoke at rallies. What prompted you to take your activism to the national level? I’d had ideas in the back of my mind about starting a larger, youth-led nationwide climate mobilization. Then in 2017 all these things happened that made the climate crisis feel even more urgent—smoke from forest fires covered Seattle in smog, Hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico, yet

Jamie Margolin speaks during a climate change rally.

not enough people were making the connection between these extreme weather events and climate change. That’s when I knew it was time to take my work to the next level. What was it like writing a book? What should people expect when they read it? I wrote Youth to Power during junior year of high school, and the first draft was due right before Zero Hour’s big Miami summit. I had to squeeze in time to write whenever I could, but I enjoyed getting to put down on paper all the activism experiences I’d learned from and wanted to share with others. Readers should expect a very relatable guide that walks you through what it’s like being a climate activist as a young person. It’s a sort of field manual, but also talks about the human aspect of being an activist, how it changes you and how to make sure you still hold on to the things you love.

Would you tell me about your speaking tour in Europe? Keeping up with schoolwork was tough, but it was great getting a more global perspective on the climate change movement. In European countries like Denmark, people are more aware of the problem. I would start explaining the science and they’d be like, ‘Yeah, we know.’ When I told them some people in the United States deny the reality of climate change, they thought that was funny. How do you avoid getting burned out from so much activism work? The only way to deal with burnout is to take a step back and re-evaluate your work-life balance. I remind myself activism is one thing I do, but it’s not all there is to me as a person. It’s important to just go do normal, fun things sometimes.

“Not enough people were making the connection between these extreme weather events and climate change. That’s when I knew it was time to take my work to the next level.” — Jamie Margolin, climate change activist 48          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


my workspace

As executive director of Wolf Haven, an accredited wolf sanctuary with locations in Tenino as well as Bridger, Montana, Diane Gallegos is on a mission to conserve and protect wolves and their habitat. The two Wolf Haven locations she oversees provide refuge to eighty-nine animals, including gray and red wolves, wolfdogs and coyotes.

“Many of the animals in our sanctuary are victims of people’s desire to own a wild animal, an idea that rarely works out well for the people and is never a good idea for the animal,” Gallegos said. “We follow an animalcentric approach, ensuring our wolves receive well-maintained, peaceful enclosures, meat, enrichment items and medical care when necessary.”

My Workspace

Saving the Wolves Wolf Haven International works to rehabilitate and protect wildlife written and photographed by Lauren Kramer 50          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE FEBRUARY | MARCH


my workspace

Some ranchers and hunters view wolves as competition, creating conflict. While wolves are protected in Washington, in Montana more than 250 wolves are killed each hunting season. “As part of the Wolf Advisory Group, we try to foster collaboration among stakeholders to minimize conflict and develop durable solutions for peaceful coexistence between wolves and people,” Gallegos said.

“If you’re passionate about wolves, engage in the issues,” Gallegos said. “Attend Fish & Wildlife commission meetings to understand the complexity of the situation. Consider a symbolic adoption of a wolf at Wolf Haven, to help us provide food, medical care and enclosure maintenance for our animals. And connect with wildlife in a way that is not harmful to those animals. Wildlife are wild, and should be allowed to stay wild.”



game changer

Second Chances Northwest Battle Buddies pairs service dogs with veterans, helping them live full lives written by Viki Eierdam photography by Hanna Voxland

Attendees at a recent Northwest Battle Buddies graduation ceremony.

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game changer

FROM LEFT Northwest Battle Buddies president and founder Shannon Walker, right, and chief operating officer Ovie Muntean. Walker leads a recent Northwest Battle Buddies graduation ceremony at the Royal Oaks Country Club in Vancouver.

movie theaters to churches and airports. In many LOOKING INTO THE eyes of a dog is like seeing MORE ONLINE unconditional love manifest. There is acceptance, Learn more about Northwest cases, these are places vets have avoided for years Battle Buddies at www. due to heightened anxiety in crowds. comfort, a sense of home and security. For combat northwestbattlebuddies.org With their dogs by their sides, Walker watches veterans, a dog can represent hope. Back in 2011, an Iraq war veteran asked professional dog vets fight through the challenges that have kept them isolated trainer Shannon Walker to train his personal dog, Sammie, and hopeless. Dogs make the vets feel safe and lead them placto be a PTSD service dog. She listened to his story of combat es they wouldn’t go alone. On the flip side, a veteran petting and the lingering effects those experiences had on his life, then his dog releases oxytocin—the feel-good hormone. A PTSD knew she had to find a way to train his beloved yellow lab so he dog acts much like a medical alert dog that detects high or low blood sugar in a diabetic or a seizure response dog for could find the man he used to be. “I had never experienced anything like that, never seen a dog people with epilepsy. In this case, the dogs can interrupt moments of agitation, stop a panic attack and wake the handler change someone’s life like she had changed his,” Walker said. Armed with the knowledge that twenty-two veterans com- from nightmares. The training comes with a price tag of $25,000 per dog, and mit suicide every day in the United States, Walker founded Northwest Battle Buddies, an organization that provides ser- every dog—all 102 to date—is gifted free to each qualified vetvice dogs to combat veterans with PTSD. Nine years and 101 eran. As the proud daughter of a U.S. Air Force veteran, Walker dogs later, Walker is more determined than ever. She brings makes sure that more than 90 cents of every donated dollar twenty-five years of dog-training experience, including inter- goes to the mission. Required annual re-certifications further ensure that the dogs continue to exhibit the skills that will help national licenses, titles and police dog training. Prior to pairing a dog with a veteran, each dog goes through their vets navigate life. “My dad taught me that when you’re in the presence of a vetseven months of training. Vets then come from all over the country to spend six weeks training one-on-one with the ser- eran, you’re in the presence of a hero,” Walker said. “As free men vice animal in situations ranging from shopping malls and and women, we must continue to find ways to serve them.”

Prior to pairing a dog with a veteran, each dog goes through seven months of training. Vets then come from all over the country to spend six weeks training one-on-one with the service animal in situations ranging from shopping malls and movie theaters to churches and airports. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020


Lodging Travel forry eve

Alderbrook Resort & Spa


Alderbrook Resort & Spa sits on a remote spot along the Hood Canal.



written by Corinne Whiting

OR EVERY DREAMY destination across the Washington map, we could find just as many personal travel styles. While some wanderers plan getaways around revitalizing rest and quiet luxury, others choose to be closer to the outdoors in more rustic digs. We’ve culled a list of different options throughout the state, with the hope that—no matter your personality or lodging preference— you’ll discover the perfect post-adventure spot to suit your style.

Suncadia Resort is a family-friendly resort with three golf courses.

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Lodge Lover CLE ELUM



ALDERBROOK RESORT & SPA This waterside haven, located two hours west of Seattle (via car and/or 56          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

FROM LEFT Skamania Lodge sits right on the Columbia Gorge. Alderbrook has a variety of cozy indoor spaces.

ferry), can be found nestled among sweet-smelling pines. It offers everything one might ask of a proper lodge—a main lobby gathering space, two resident cats and sixteen cozy cottages with fireplaces. There are also seventy-seven guest rooms in the lodge, a restaurant that shows off the foraging talents of the resort’s culinary team, and elevated amenities ranging


Alderbrook Resort & Spa

Located 80 scenic miles east of Seattle, Suncadia offers a family-friendly hub on 6,000 acres of forested Cascade mountain terrain. The grand lodge here has 254 guest suites and penthouses (the highlight being their panoramic views). The sprawling property features more than 40 miles of hiking and biking trails, three golf courses, several wining and dining options, and an on-site spa with saunas and four outdoor mineral baths. After taking advantage of the region’s natural beauty—and Suncadia tours such as snowshoe-and-brew excursions—adventurers refuel at cafes and pubs that line the main street of nearby historic Roslyn.

Skamania Lodge


from an indoor heated pool to onsite spa. The remote Hood Canal location is part of the 88-acre property’s allure, meaning guests never have to leave the resort’s cozy indoor spaces and nature trails. Two reasons to leave the Alderbrook campus are the nearby Union City Market and the tasty Hama Hama Oyster Saloon. www.alderbrookresort.com



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Quick Getaway Artist SEATTLE


SKAMANIA LODGE The Columbia River Gorge’s iconic Skamania Lodge lures nature lovers to its 175 wooded acres on the border of Oregon. Reminiscent of buildings from the early 1900s, the four-story Cascadian-style lodge features high-pitched roofs, plenty of timber and native stone. While many guests enjoy the regional draw of craft breweries, wineries and water activities such as windsurfing, on-site perks include an aerial park, zip lines, an axe-throwing area and a loop fitness trail with five stations and seventeen activities. Newly renovated guest rooms exhibit Native Americaninspired designs and local photography that sheds light on this storied destination. Perks range from cozy fireplaces to private balconies with gorge views. Feeling playful? Book a tree house with a twist (we’re talking about lavish queen beds)—the ultimate spot to rest your head among the towering trees. www.skamania.com

On its beautiful Seattle Southside property, Cedarbrook Lodge simultaneously keeps guests within city limits—and helps them feel as though they’ve been whisked off to a secluded getaway. Tucked onto 18 acres of naturally restored wetlands, this resort is only a stone’s throw from Sea-Tac Airport, and it provides flyers with a complimentary shuttle. All Cedarbrook stays are enhanced by homey guest rooms, Northwest-inspired breakfasts, snacks in airy living rooms and access to an outdoor hot tub. Copperleaf Restaurant serves seasonal fare that’s been locally sourced (with many ingredients grown in the garden out back). The lodge’s commitment to reducing its carbon footprint is evidenced by such efforts as on-site composting and a reclamation pond. www.cedarbrooklodge.com



TULALIP RESORT CASINO About forty-five minutes north of Seattle, a surprise getaway destination with stunning mountain views rises just off I-5. Tulalip Resort Casino attracts visitors for its plentiful gaming offerings. But it also dazzles with luxurious accommodations, numerous dining options (eight in total, including Blackfish, known for its traditionally prepared salmon), a rejuvenating spa and the fascinating Hibulb Cultural Center and its 50-acre natural history preserve, a place to honor and learn about the Tulalip people and their neighboring communities. Tulalip Resort’s recently refreshed 370 guest rooms have modern amenities and vibrant Coast Salish artwork and textures. www.tulalipresortcasino.com

Communal spaces at the Lodges on Vashon are what dreams are made of.

Lodges on Vashon

Suncadia Resort


An island escape that’s only a twenty-minute ferry from West Seattle, Vashon proves an easy getaway for those wanting to relax with minimal commute time. These contemporary lodges feature hip, minimalist décor, keyless-entry technology, king beds, gas fireplaces and local products (from soaps to coffee) that show off the work of some of the island’s finest artisans. Dreamy communal spaces—both indoors and out—are coveted places to curl up with a book, strum a guitar or socialize with friends.



Eritage is the perfect spot for a wine lover.

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Pleasure Seeker WALLA WALLA

ERITAGE RESORT Those looking for an excuse to unplug will delight in the prime location of Eritage Resort, a sun-kissed, wine country retreat where the day begins lazily with the chirps of birds and lull of neighboring tractors. This newer Eastern Washington gem consists of ten luxury suites and ten lakeside bungalows with private decks. While the on-site restaurant has seasonal tasting menus that showcase a connection to local family farmers and suppliers, the in-room dining menu allows guests to eat in their own serene space—or by the pool during summer months.

Fire & Vine Hospitality


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Photos: Todd Winslow Pierce/Posthotel


POSTHOTEL This adults-only riverside retreat brings authentic wellness concepts from the Alps to the heart of Washington’s favorite faux-Bavarian town. Guests start the day with a European breakfast spread (think eggs any style, German sausage and potatoes, freshly baked breads and barista-crafted espresso) before lounging on the lobby terrace, unwinding in the library and indulging in a wellness area that has decadent nap rooms, saunas, plunge pools, a swim-out saltwater pool, and indoor and outdoor spas. Elegant comfort defines the resort’s fifty-five rooms, many of which offer hand-carved marble soaking bathtubs and French doors that open to exquisite mountain views. www.posthotelleavenworth.com


WILLOWS LODGE This undeniably romantic destination, celebrating its twentieth year in 2020, is located twenty-five minutes east of Seattle in the heart of Woodinville wine

FROM LEFT Posthotel Leavenworth sits on the Wenatchee River like a Bavarian castle. Inside, the hotel has a variety of pools.

country. On 5 beautifully landscaped acres, guests sink into luxurious Northwest-inspired spaces—every guest room and suite has a stone fireplace and soaking tub designed for two. There is no shortage of activities to be found, thanks to the bounty of nearby tasting rooms and the Sammamish River Trail running adjacent to the property (Willows keeps bikes on hand to borrow). The recently renovated spa now has an outdoor sauna to complement the relaxation pool, and Barking Frog continues to be hailed as one of Woodinville’s most desirable restaurants. www.willowslodge.com

Elegant comfort defines the resort’s fifty-five rooms, many of which offer hand-carved marble soaking bathtubs and French doors that open to exquisite mountain views.


Washington casinos have much to celebrate in 2020 With twenty-seven casinos in Washington, there’s always something new going on. Here are a few developments. The Muckleshoot Casino announced in October that it will be an official partner and sponsor of the new National Hockey League team coming to Seattle. The NHL team will have its home games in New Arena, a renovation of the existing KeyArena in the Seattle Center, and the team will begin playing in the 2021-22 season. The partnership will mean the casino’s brand presence at the arena, as well as a program that will introduce hockey to Native American kids in the

Puget Sound area. The Auburn-based casino, meanwhile, is in the midst of an expansion that will be complete this year, including a 20,000-square-foot events center, a “pre-function promenade” with a glass wall, three new fast-casual restaurants and a bar, more gaming area and a cultural center. In 2021, the Tulalip Tribes will open a new $125 million Quil Ceda Creek Nightclub & Casino off I-5 in Tulalip, north of Everett. The more than 125,000-square-foot casino will also feature a parking garage and 1,500 gaming machines. In Blyn, the Jamestown S’klallam tribe is in the process of building a new hotel

at the site of the 7 Cedars Casino. The first phase of the project, slated to be completed in spring 2020, will showcase a 100-room, five-story resort with each floor featuring a different element. Finally, the Emerald Queen Casino just got bigger. The Tacoma casino, operated by the Puyallup tribe, has a new casino right next to the original and brings 310,000 square feet of gaming. The new casino, which opened in December, is being hailed as a Las Vegas-style facility, with a 2,000-seat concert venue. This year, the casino plans to add a new hotel and spa to the property, plus a rooftop restaurant. — Sheila G. Miller



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Adventurous Spirit COPALIS BEACH

IRON SPRINGS RESORT Fewer than three hours from the big-city bustle of Seattle, the rugged coast lures beachcombers and clamdiggers to its wide-open spaces and driftwood-dotted beaches. Iron Springs consists of twenty-five cozy, dog-friendly cabins on 25 acres, with another 100 acres across the road that has a mile-long hiking trail winding past old-growth stumps, and beautiful trees and fauna. Each cabin has a wood-burning stove or fireplace as well as a full-sized kitchen. For those craving true off-the-grid simplicity: remote Cabin 28 comes with no cable, WiFi or phone access. www.ironspringsresort.com

Iron Springs Resort has remote, quiet cabins on the coast.

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Peace Vans

Rent a van and hit the road with Peace Vans Rentals.


LAKEDALE RESORT Near Roche Harbor, Lakedale Resort at Three Lakes—situated on 82 acres with three spring water lakes—is an ideal spot to disconnect and glide onto island time. Accommodations here range from simple lodge guestrooms to basic campsites, but the experience of glamping in a canvas cabin or canvas cottage (from May through November) or in a yurt (year-round) offers a fresh way to commune with nature. Highlights of this upgraded tent experience include breakfast served in the mess tent, a comfortable bed with flannel duvet, s’mores-ready fire ring, and “Toasty Toes” turndown service, meaning the decadent delivery of hot water bottles to the “front porch” every evening. In summer months, Washington chefs and winemakers partner for special Gourmet Glamping feasts.

Vans Rentals, a fleet of custom camping vehicles, and Peace Vans Outfitters, a one-stop-shop for curated, camping gear rentals (LED lighting, awnings, heaters and more). Vintage vehicles such as classic VW camper vans have been refurbished with modern-day amenities, and now the fleet is growing its availability of custom Mercedes Metris camper vans, too. In 2020, customers have the option to travel as far as Los Angeles, and one of the VW vintage buses is being converted into a fully electric vehicle. www.peacevansseattle.com

Glamp in style in one of Lakedale Resort’s yurts. (photo: Lakedale Resort)


Chris Klas Photography


PEACE VANS Road-tripping enthusiasts love the service offered by Seattle-based Peace FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020


Justin Oba

Olympia, the state’s capital, is in the midst of a revitalization.

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SOMETIMES TRAVEL LOOKS like a Boeing 737 and far-flung foreign affairs. Sometimes it contemplates the museums, theater and the second act of a star chef. Once in a while, though, we crave cities and towns that are in the earnest process of rebuilding from the old bones out, cities in the process of transition. These are the places where downtowns matter and are under construction, where buildings pleasantly old and beautifully built are getting facelifts, places where there are fewer suits than boots, where rent is affordable and new restaurants are leading indicators, a place where cafes and artists thrive. These four Washington towns inspire us to find the beauty in the grit in the transition from old to new. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020


Inside EVERETT OLD BONES • Port Gardner Building (Funko) • The Historic Everett Theatre (est. 1901)

NEW PROJECTS • Port of Everett $635 million redevelopment • Hotel Indigo

ARTS + MUSIC • Schack Arts Center • Fisherman’s Village Music Festival (May 14-16)

Port of Everett

photo: Port of Everett


ABOVE Everett’s port and waterfront is in the midst of a massive, $635 million redevelopment.

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Everett was once a lumber town with a viable port as a second alternative to Seattle, 25 miles south. Today it’s the number two deep-water commercial shipping port in Washington based on export value, supports eight shipping lines and transports millions of dollars of airplane parts for the city’s largest employer, Boeing. As stevedores are loading and unloading cargo, a 65-acre waterfront redevelopment is underway with 1,250 family housing units, a grocery store, a theater, an office building and the FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020

142-room Hotel Indigo from the InterContinental Hotels Group as its centerpiece. Just east of the port, Everett’s downtown is unpolished but with patina and engaging institutions. Schack Art Center opened in 2011 and instantly became an exhibition space for local and international exhibits. For pop culture, look up. The headquarters for Funko, the creator of pop culture products, has current characters decorating its downtown building and collectibles from bygone eras—Charlie from Starkist tuna, Big Boy

from the restaurant chain, Godzilla and Batman. Cool coffee shops are popping up and serving a young population of mobile workers. Narrative Coffee on Wetmore Avenue is a small, stylish space backed with brick and framed with warm wood. Down in the industrial docks, At Large Brewing and Taproom is another advancement for Everett craft beer drinkers. Just around the block is a symbol for the story of downtown Everett—a natural food co-op, a welding shop and a tattoo parlor.

City of Spokane


Aaron Theisen

Davenport Hotels


Spokane Washington’s second-largest city, Spokane, has long been transforming the lovely old buildings of its core downtown and riverfront into one of the state’s finest examples of tasteful urban renewal. That includes projects such as the intricate and stunningly renovated Bing Crosby Theater (The Bing), originally built in 1915 by Swedish silver magnate August Paulsen, and the iconic double-barreled Central Steam Plant. Once a coalfired steam plant, it closed in 1986 and later transformed into Steam Plant Square,

a historic renovation that includes 80,000 square feet of office space, dining and retail space. Notable is Steam Plant Brewing Co.’s Kitchen & Brewery, with stone-hearth pizzas and signature Smokestack burger. Downtown is also anchored by the Historic Davenport Hotel, first opened in 1914 and ushered in with a wave of grandeur in the architectural style of Spanish Renaissance. Its lobby alone transports its guests to an era when style and detail were at a premium. Rescued from demolition in 2002 by

• Historic Davenport Hotel • The Bing

NEW PROJECTS • Kendall Yards • Riverfront Park Development’s Pavilion

ARTS + MUSIC • Myrtle Woldson Performing Arts Center • The Big Dipper • Fox Theater

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Spokane recently opened a riverfront viewing plaza. The Historic Davenport Hotel is an anchor in downtown. Zona Blanca, a ceviche restaurant, has opened downtown.


Walt and Karen Worthy, the Davenport is now a collection of hotels in Spokane that includes three other notable properties. Another hotelier and developer, Jerry Dicker, is making a big play in Spokane redevelopment. In addition to renovating The Bing, Dicker has also built a portfolio of Ruby Hotels in renovated downtown buildings. Downtown is a work in progress. While along one street there may be cafes and boutiques, on others are the faces of urban homelessness. In one refreshing move, star chef Chad White in 2016 opened his ceviche-as-art restaurant, Zona Blanca, right in the middle of the fray. The City of Spokane has been progressive in its role, too. The city passed a $64 million bond to launch its Riverfront Park redevelopment. Once a World’s Fair venue in 1974, the park had become more liability than asset to citizens by the early 2000s. In 2014, the bond passed and investment followed. In 2018, Spokane signed an agreement with Verizon and modern city planning consultant firm Urbanova to improve the city’s transportation, communication and air quality. As a result, Spokane was one of Verizon’s first 5G city rollouts. Within the arts, Spokane is growing and innovating. From the Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture to the Spokane Symphony and the new Myrtle Woldson Center for Performing Arts at Gonzaga University, the arts have a strong stage presence here in a city that has wrapped its troubles in dreams and made those dreams come true. 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      65

Flowstate Creatives

ABOVE Annie’s Flats is a remodeled forty-eight-apartment building.

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residents. Contributing to the local creative economy is the newly opened Annie’s Artist Studios in an old Montgomery Ward building and the companion piece, Annie’s Artist Flats, with forty-eight apartments. As much as its downtown urban areas, Olympia’s parks are part of the allure. In 2004, the city passed a funding measure to buy 500 acres of park land by 2024. Olympia currently has acquired 447 of the 500 acres. In 2016, the city passed a bond measure that will fund new athletic fields and ten new neighborhood parks. Three Magnets Brewing has twelve rotating taps, avocado fries and smoked salmon mousse, hamburgers, lamburgers and veggie burgers since 2014. Perhaps the best symbol of Olympia comes from Fish Brewing, the oldest operating brew pub in Olympia, where, at 5 p.m. every day, a steam whistle on the roof of the brewery marks the end of the work day in this workingclass town. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020

Inside OLYMPIA OLD BONES • Capitol Theater • Washington Center for the Performing Arts

NEW PROJECTS • Annie’s Artist Studios • Views on 5th

ARTS + MUSIC • Olympia Film Society • Rhythm & Rye • Swing Wine Bar photo: Flowstate Creatives


Just 60 miles south of Seattle, Olympia is another example of a city with great downtown bones that hasn’t yet reached its potential. The segment of Olympia from the State Capitol campus north to the farmers market is the core of downtown, architecture and the focus of development. The new buzzwords around town are: lofts, flats and artist studios. A city document updated last September lists downtown projects including artist studios, downtown lofts, towering condominiums and mixed use buildings, such as Views on 5th, with gorgeous views of Capitol Lake and West Bay. At the center of a growing arts community is the Washington Center for the Performing Arts in its 1924 building, once a Vaudeville stage and a movie house. Highly acclaimed music and dance performances are de rigueur. Olympia Film Society, housed in the beautiful and historic Capitol Theater, brings first-run movies, indie films, documentaries and burlesque shows to Olympia

Ingrid Barrentine


ABOVE, FROM TOP Olympia’s downtown is alive with boutiques and bars. The Capitol Theater is a busy spot run by the Olympia Film Society.

Inside ELLENSBURG OLD BONES • Davidson Building • New York Cafe building • 420 Building

NEW PROJECTS • Hotel Windrow


Hotel Windrow

Molly Morrow

Hotel Windrow

• 420 Loft Art Gallery • Buskers in the Burg

Ellensburg Many state capitals were founded at the dead center of the state, making them equidistant for those traveling by horse. Its central location was Ellensburg’s argument for becoming Washington’s state capital in 1890, when it lost out to Olympia. Ellensburg’s consolation prize was the State Normal School, which later became Central Washington University. In the year of Washington’s statehood, 1889, the showy Victorian Davidson

Building was completed and now stands at the center of Ellensburg’s downtown historic district. A new icon marries old and new in the Hotel Windrow, a renovation of the historic Elks Club on Main Street. For locals, Hotel Windrow brings Basalt, a new restaurant led by “Iron Chef ” winner Larkin Young that sources locally and responsibly. One of the long-standing traditions of Ellensburg is the rodeo. The local newspaper,

A NEW ICON MARRIES OLD AND NEW IN THE HOTEL WINDROW, A RENOVATION OF THE HISTORIC ELKS CLUB ON MAIN STREET. ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Davidson Building was completed in 1889 at the center of Ellensburg. Hotel Windrow is in the renovated Elks Club on Main Street. Every Labor Day weekend, the Ellensburg Rodeo takes over town.


the Daily Record, has a web tab dedicated to the rodeo, for example. Every Labor Day weekend, the Ellensburg Rodeo on the edge of town brings one of America’s top ten rodeos to town in its outdoor stadium. Originally called the Edison Hotel, the historic New York Cafe Building on Main Street was bought by Seattle architect Ross Anderson and renovated to include four apartments and 5,000 square feet of retail. A cool Art Deco building in the downtown core now serves as the town’s cultural center, housing the 420 Loft Art Gallery. The stylish building was designed by Carl Gould, who also designed the Seattle Art Museum and planned the University of Washington. Perhaps one of the best cultural acts in Ellensburg is the two-day old-school music celebration, Buskers in the Burg. In September, musicians take to street corners to perform al fresco. This little town of 21,000 turns downtown into a showcase of talent and community spirit. 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      67

Bring Up the Bones photography by Jackie Sharpe-Ravella IN 1999, MAMMOTH BONES were found in Ice Age flood deposits in a quarry near Kennewick. Undisturbed until 2008, formal excavation began in 2010 at the Coyote Canyon site. By the end of 2016, the excavations had turned up nearly 700 specimens, including almost 100 mammoth bones and fragments. Excavation is ongoing, two weekends each month between March and October. Today, the Mid-Columbia Basin Old Natural Education Sciences Research Center Foundation brings K-12 teachers and students to the site and lets them participate in the site’s lab and field, helping them learn about paleontology, geology and other sciences.

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FROM LEFT An excavation unit at the Coyote Canyon Mammoth Site. Geology research coordinator George Last, left, and volunteer Clive LaPage prepare to extract a radius bone from the excavation unit.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Volunteer Neil Mara, left, and Last work on removing the radius from the excavation site. A humerus from the Coyote Canyon site. By examining bone fusion and the mammoth’s age at the time of death (approximately 40 years), researchers determined this bone came from a male. Gary Kleinknecht, education and outreach coordinator for the MCBONES Research Center Foundation, conducts a tour inside the Dig House. Jan Griffin helps new volunteers learn wet screening methods for searching for fossils.

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pg. 80 Travel to Whidbey Island allows for a reconnection to nature.

travel spotlight

Walking and biking trails around the area take you past abandoned dairy barns.

A Recreation Area, Reborn Washington’s Northern State Recreation Area is a peaceful spot with a history TUCKED AWAY ON land east of Sedro-Woolley, a small town in the foothills of the Cascades, the land that comprises Northern State Recreation Area has been known by many names, not all of them flattering. The area, which included a state-run hospital and institution for thousands of people who grappled with mental health issues or were, during this bygone era, considered “nonconformist,” is described by many as having a ghostly feel. Skagit County in 1991 purchased 726 acres of a 1,100-acre property, part of which previously housed Northern State Hospital and still features abandoned farm and dairy buildings that were part of the facility. Now, the county parks and recreation district uses the land as a major regional recreation area. According to a Seattle Times article from 2017, the layout of the hospital and its grounds were designed by John Charles Olmsted, a famous landscape architect and son of the famed Central Park designer. The hospital had a working farm, according to the county, and among the buildings you can see at the recreation area today are the abandoned dairy barns, built in 1921. Northern State Hospital closed in 1973, and the campus has remained largely out of sight, despite its close proximity to the North Cascades Scenic Byway. The recreation area, which does not include the hospital buildings, features a disc golf course, hiking and biking trails along old roads, and plenty of solitude. There are opportunities to see wildlife along these lightly traveled trails, as well as to imagine the history, trials and tribulations of those who passed along these trails before us.

Rich Spang Photography

written by Sheila G. Miller

Sunshine for all Seasons! Celebrate the Sun!

March 6 & 7, 2020

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Fat Biking 101 A beginner’s guide to successfully biking on snow this season written and photographed by Meghann Grah/M. Laine Photography

I WATCHED AS my husband, Zach, flew around the bend in the trail in front of us. We’d spent the morning trying out our rented fat bikes on easy trails and had been told this one was more difficult—steeper hills and harder turns. With our little experience and bravery mounting, he took the next corner so quickly that his tire caught an edge and it threw him off the bike. He landed in a heap of snow, and before I could even ask if he was OK, he got up laughing. Back in his younger years, he rode BMX bikes, so this was rather embarrassing for him. I whipped out my camera phone to get a rare shot of him blushing, covered head to toe in snow.

Fat biking is a great way to extend your biking season.

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Although fat biking is relatively new to Washington, it started in Alaska and New Mexico in 2005. The sport has gained in popularity as a great way to extend your biking season and add another winter activity to your arsenal. The main difference between other bikes and fat bikes is the tire size and pressure. Fat bikes have wider tires that allow you to float over snow, sand and other obstacles. By using a low tire pressure (between 5 and 15 PSI), these tires have more surface area making contact with the ground, allowing for a smoother ride on soft surfaces. If you’re hesitant to try mountain biking like I was, fat biking is the perfect introduction. You get all the benefits of mountain biking —the rush of going downhill and speeding around corners—but without the pain as you fall into powder, as my husband well knows.

What to Know Similar to hiking, you’ll want to wear layers that can be removed easily as you start to warm up. Start with a thermal base layer and top it off with a water-resistant jacket, pants and gloves. Remove a layer before you start to sweat too much in order to keep yourself and your clothing dry, and put a layer back on if you start to get cold. Fail to do this and your clothes will feel wet and cold when you take a break. Don’t forget to bring your ten essentials, too, like first aid supplies, water and snacks, to name a few. Use caution on shared trails, especially those shared with snowmobiles. If you’re riding on a groomed trail, there are specifically designed trails for various sports. Stay in the designated fat biking lane and off the cross-country ski and snowshoe trails. If there isn’t a fat biking lane, ride on the very edge of the snowshoe trail to avoid damaging the route. Groomed trails are easily ruined, costly to maintain and time intensive to fix, so take this advice seriously and don’t forget to yield to other traffic. Watch the temperature, too. You’ll want to try fat biking on a day below 32 degrees, when the snow is firm. If you’re leaving footprints or ruts in the trail, it’s probably too warm and will result in a ruined track and a more difficult ride. Come back on a colder day and experience a better ride in the firm snow.

WHERE TO RENT AND RIDE METHOW VALLEY Known as the mecca of winter sports, with close to 120 miles of trails, Winthrop is where I tried fat biking for the first time. I rented from Methow Cycle Sport shop, although the Cascade Outdoor Store is nearby as well. After chatting with staff about the many nearby trails, my husband and I settled on biking straight to Pearrygin Lake State Park, where we had access to 12 miles of groomed trails and 360 degrees of mountain views. A Sno-Park permit is required to bike there, but other nearby trails call for a Discover Pass, a Methow Trails Pass, or none at all. All permits are sold at the bike shops, so talk with them to find the right trail and permit for you. They will also provide you with trail maps to help guide you on your ride. www.methowcyclesport.com www.cascadesoutdoorstore.com LEAVENWORTH Always a winter hotspot, Leavenworth’s Ski Hill permits fat biking on 7 kilometers of its lit trails between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m. on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays, or anytime on its snowshoe trails. You can also find 5 more miles of groomed trails at the Icicle River Trail. www.arlbergsports.com WHITE PASS Enjoy 18 kilometers of maintained trails at the Nordic Trails Center. Trails are open to fat biking after 3:30 p.m., which is also when dogs are allowed on trails. Fat bike rentals are available in the Nordic Center, but reservations are highly recommended. A trail pass is also required. www.skiwhitepass.com ROSLYN The Ride Roslyn bike shop has trails just blocks from its door. Ask the friendly shop for trail details, but expect a ride up to the ridge and back to be about 12 miles. Find more trails at the Lake Easton Sno-Park, the Salmon La Sac Sno-Park, or the John Wayne Iron Horse trail. Sno-Park permits required. www.rideroslyn.com





Photos: Jim Van Gundy

You’ll find several options for bedrooms, from a king or queen room to a suite. Each room is decorated with local art and provides luxury toiletries. A mini fridge, microwave and Keurig make morning coffee and midnight snacking easy. Each room includes walk-in showers with massaging shower heads.


Complimentary breakfast goes a step beyond the average continental with a selection of charcuterie to go along with yogurt parfaits, fruit, baked goods and egg bites. Plus, you’ll find twenty-four-hour coffee and tea service. Keep up your workout routine with an allhours fitness center or relax in the Ummelina Spa, just next door. When you check in, be sure to ask about special wine events. Easily walk to downtown tasting rooms and breweries. Sample the cuisine of the region, often without getting in your car. Should you wish to venture into the vineyards, it’s only a short drive, or tour, to a bounty of wine experiences.


If you’re interested in delving the building’s history, check out the exhibit located in the hotel, or ask one of the friendly staff members. You might want to check out the nearby Yakima Valley Museum if you’re in the mood for an educational journey.


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The Hotel Maison is a restored Freemasons building. The hotel is walking distance to downtown tasting rooms. The interior has been lovingly restored.

The Hotel Maison written by Cara Strickland IN THE HEART of downtown Yakima you’ll find the Hotel Maison, a fully restored 1911 building which once housed the local Freemasons (the Masonic ceremonial temple is still on the sixth floor). Now reimagined as a boutique hotel, it provides a posh homebase for wine-tasting adventures (or a hunt for fresh hops), as well as a place to unwind, or get work done, for business travelers. 321 EAST YAKIMA AVENUE YAKIMA www.thehotelmaison.com



The Smart Way to Travel


Avoid gridlock and traffic delays along the I-5 corridor on Amtrak Cascades. Relax, sip Northwest wine, enjoy the scenery or use our free wi-fi while you cruise down the tracks. Amtrak Cascades offers daily service between Vancouver BC and Eugene, with convenient stops in Seattle, Portland and 14 other cities. Amtrak Cascades is the smart and fun way to travel.



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trip planner

Deception Pass is postcard pretty.

On Island Time Whidbey Island may be close to Seattle, but it feels a world away written by Jean Chen Smith

WITH ITS IDYLLIC green landscape, Whidbey Island lies approximately 30 miles north of Seattle between the Olympic Peninsula and the SeattleMetro corridor of western Washington. Off the beaten track and offering a slower pace than the San Juan Islands, Whidbey’s terrain is diverse—offering access to beaches, rolling hills and farmland. The northern stretch of the island is anchored by the Whidbey Island Naval Air Station, where jets can be heard zooming across the sky throughout the day. As you navigate to the central and southern parts of the island, you will find boutiques, art galleries and farm-to-table dining experiences. Easily accessible by ferry and perfect for a long weekend escape, pack your bags to discover this coastal allure for yourself.

Day BIRD SANCTUARY • BISTRO • THEATER Head out early and take the ferry at the Mukilteo Terminal. Once on Whidbey, begin exploring in the town of Langley, also known as the village by the sea. Take a drive to Earth Sanctuary, a 72-acre nature reserve and sanctuary for birds and other wildlife. Founder Chuck Pettis created the space to offer a sacred place for peace, renewal and spiritual connection, and it includes reflective ponds, megalithic sacred spaces, sculptures, a labyrinth, a Native American medicine wheel and an authentic Buddhist stupa. Earth Sanctuary is open to visitors every day of the year during daylight hours, and costs $7 per person. 80          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


FOR PROOF ONLY Ad will run in: Seattle Magazine, January 2020 Ad size: 1/2 horizontal

trip planner

Day SHOPPING • CAFE • FARMHOUSE DINNER After breakfast at The Saratoga Inn, where the menu changes daily, head up to First Street for some shopping. Soleil carries an assortment of scarves, gloves and totes in addition to soaps and candles. Owner Susan Ishikawa, a longtime Langley resident, always looks forward to meeting the visitors to her store and speaking about the island’s history. Be sure to stop in at The Star Store, where you can find natural foods and eclectic souvenirs ranging from Whidbey Island sweatshirts to mugs and fine wine. Browse Callahan’s Firehouse and Glassblowing, a menagerie of delicate, beautiful hand-blown glass. The gallery also offers glass-blowing classes by appointment. Drive over to Flower House Café for a bite to eat. The cafe serves local coffee from Useless Bay Coffee Co. and has a fullservice espresso bar. Don’t miss the avocado toast on a whole grain baguette, which is deliciously simple and quick. Next door is Bayview Farm & Garden, a cute spot with items for the home 82          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


D. Broberg

Head to Prima Bistro for lunch. The menu is French-inspired with Pacific Northwestern influences and focuses on locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. Don’t miss the Penn Cove mussels à la marinière with a side of house-baked bread. If you’re looking for something a little more casual, you’ll want to head over to Prima Bistro’s sister restaurant, Saltwater Fish House & Oyster Bar, which serves fish and chips and a specialty—the Maine lobster roll. Take in a movie at The Clyde Theatre, built in 1937 at the height of the Depression. The theater isn’t only a piece of history right on the main road in Langley, it also gives back to the community. The Magic Change Jar, perched on top of the snack counter, is where customers can place their extra change or tips and the amount will be matched by the theater along with other local businesses. The jar has reached upwards of $8,000 in donations so far. Rest your head at the Saratoga Inn, a delightful bed-and-breakfast located right in the heart of downtown. While all rooms are pleasant and cozy, some have excellent views of the waterfront. A full homemade breakfast is served each day between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m.

Mark Swatsell

As you navigate to the central and southern parts of the island, you will find boutiques, art galleries and farm-to-table dining experiences.

and garden. Small batch and mostly local products are the highlight here. You’ll want to spend your last night in Langley doing something special. Book a dinner at The Orchard Kitchen for an exquisite farmhouse dining experience. The restaurant uses produce mostly grown on its farm. Chef and owner Vincent Nattress and his team also work closely with local farmers and vintners to present the four-course menu, which highlights the season’s bounty. Each dinner is served family style and seats thirty-two guests. There is something so intimate and engaging about the atmosphere that I started talking to the couple seated right next to me as if we were old friends. Reservations highly recommended.

Day BREAKFAST • HIKING • MUSSELS A thirty-minute drive from Langley is Coupeville, one of Washington’s oldest towns. Two popular films, The War of the


trip planner

EAT Prima Bistro www.primabistro.com Saltwater Fish House and Oyster Bar www.saltwaterlangley.com Flower House Café www.bayviewfarmandgarden.com/ flower-house-cafe.html The Orchard Kitchen www.orchardkitchen.com The Oystercatcher www.oystercatcherwhidbey.com

STAY Saratoga Inn www.saratogainnlangley.com Blue Goose Inn Bed and Breakfast www.bluegooseinn.com

Roses and Practical Magic, were filmed in town, which is only a little over 1.2 square miles. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in charm, with restaurants, shops and plenty to do. Head out to The Bluff Trail at Ebey’s Landing and check out the stunning landscape as you hike the 5.6 miles roundtrip. Situated on a bluff overlooking the majestic Puget Sound, the hike is not for the faint of heart, as trails can be narrow and steep, but you will be rewarded with gorgeous views like none other on the island. In the heart of downtown Coupeville is The Oystercatcher, serving a farm-to-table menu in an elegant space. With dishes ranging from local Penn Cove mussels to pan-roasted duck and market fish of the day, there are options for everyone in your party. Chef Tyler Hansen and his team showcase the flavors of local farms of the region. Don’t miss the oyster po’ boy, served with radish slaw and tartar on a warm brioche bun. Stay at the historic Blue Goose Inn Bed and Breakfast, two beautifully restored Victorian homes that offer modern amenities. Each room is furnished with period antiques, private baths, comfortable sitting areas and original artwork. The best part

Michael Stadler

Jean Chen Smith

PLAY CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Orchard Kitchen serves intimate family-style dinners. Prima Bistro’s Penn Cove mussels are fine dining. Earth Sanctuary has a Buddhist stupa on site. The Bluff Trail at Ebey’s Landing is narrow and challenging but offers sweeping views. Blue Goose Inn Bed and Breakfast is composed of two Victorian homes.

Earth Sanctuary www.earthsanctuary.org The Clyde Theatre www.theclyde.net The Bluff Trail at Ebey’s Landing www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/ ebeys-landing Deception Pass State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/497/ Deception-Pass

about the small inn experience is the breakfast, which the Blue Goose does wonderfully. A hot gourmet breakfast is prepared from scratch daily with fresh, local ingredients. On my trip, the peach jam was made from peaches freshly picked from the inn’s own backyard. As you depart, you can retrace your drive back to Clinton to catch the return ferry to Washington. Or you might continue heading to the north end of the island to Deception Pass, which separates Whidbey Island from the northwest part of Washington. Be sure to stop by Deception Pass State Park, the state’s most visited state park, to explore Goose Rock. A hike to the top of Goose Rock will put you at the highest point on Whidbey Island, allowing for breathtaking views. If you aren’t up for the 4.3-mile roundtrip hike, check out North Beach Trail, which also offers great views and access to a walkable sandy beach. Either way, you will be smitten by Whidbey Island’s charm and already planning your return.



northwest destination

I Left My Heart in Coeur d’Alene A beautiful off-season run at Coeur d’Alene written by Kevin Max

I LEFT FOR Coeur d’Alene with three things on my mind— running trails, exploring the culinary scene and chilling at the resort. It was November and off-season, and gone was the summer throng of golfers, lake-bound boaters, paddleboarders and water skiers. Here were cool temps with a fall sun above and a fraction of the usual number of people below. Coeur d’Alene Resort is a beautiful property on the shore of shockingly blue Lake Coeur d’Alene, perhaps best known for its famous floating fourteenth hole in the middle of the lake. But the resort’s retro feel takes you back and implores you to grab a cocktail and gaze out over its azure dreamscape. The mix of colors of the boats in the slips of the marina trigger a latent synesthesia in me and lingers. Less than a mile south of the resort is Tubbs Hill. There is a 2-mile loop trail that encircles the park, but I opted for a greater 84          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


perspective and took the summit trail to intersect with a maternal sunset that swaddled its offspring in soft yellow. In the morning, I walked to the nearby downtown coffee shop, Vault, to awaken my brain and work for a bit. Vault is everything you would want in a café—great coffee drinks, an enviable selection of pastries and a clean, modern style. Caffeine will get you so far, then it’s time to work on the rest of the brain through exercise. About 14 miles east of Coeur d’Alene is Marie Creek Trail, a quiet trail that, depending on the review, goes on for 9 to 14 miles. November is for solitude lovers. I was alone on a new trail with a million chandeliers of raindrops swollen with morning light falling around me. When I run, I never carry GPS for distance and rarely carry a phone or watch for time. I run until I think that the roundtrip distance will challenge me



northwest destination

EAT Daft Badger Brewing www.facebook.com/ daftbadgerbrewing Honey Eatery & Social Club www.honeyeateryandsocial club.com Crown & Thistle Pub www.crownandthistlepub.com Vault Coffee www.vaultcda.com Calypso’s Coffee www.calypsos-51266b. easywp.com Coeur d’Alene Resort www.cdaresort.com Angelo’s Ristorante www.angelosristorante.net/ menu.html

STAY Coeur d’Alene Resort www.cdaresort.com

PLAY Hike Tubbs Hill www.cdaid.org/tubbs-hill Run Marie Creek Trail www.alltrails.com/trail/us/ idaho/marie-creek-trail

on that day, then I turn around. Marie Creek Trail was a trail runner’s dream. In the Pacific Northwest, running’s two functions are to clear the mind and to justify the next craft beer. A town’s beer is its terroir and people in a pint. Daft Badger Brewing on North 2nd Street is a small brewpub on a residential block on the north edge of town. A Badgers Bounty IPA and a pulled pork sandwich put me in a good place to stroll downtown. There’s Crown & Thistle Pub, an impressively authentic British pub with Smithwick’s, Belhaven and Guinness on tap and live music acts to boot! There are many art galleries and some worth the visit. For my taste, Art Spirit Gallery on Sherman Avenue has the best curation of local and national painters, sculptors, photographers and textile artists. Mercifully, no landscapes. After buzzing in and out of countless boutiques, galleries and


CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT Coeur d’Alene Resort sits right on the beautifully blue Lake Coeur d’Alene. Biking is easy in this area, especially on the 73-mile, paved Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. Tubbs Hill has a summit trail perfect for sunsets.

Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course www.cdaresort.com

other shops downtown, I headed back to the resort to dress for dinner and have a glass of wine. Honey Eatery and Social Club has a downstairs den with the feel of a speakeasy—dark, brickwalled, with well-dressed people sipping cocktails. I started with a glass of regional red wine and wild mushroom flatbread. For the mains, I opted for a cedar-roasted arctic char with roasted fennel-potato hash. I imagined the social club packed during the summer months and relished its quieter self. In the morning, I headed south of town to jump on the railtrail Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. A 73-mile paved path, it starts on the south end of Lake Coeur d’Alene and runs northeast to the middle of the state and the northwestern tip of the Bitterroot Range. Most people opt to cycle the mostly flat and scenic trail, but I was on foot and launched into another easy run through some of Idaho’s most scenic areas. FEBRUARY | MARCH 2020



The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889. Oroville

Bellingham Friday Harbor North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon Coupeville

Port Angeles Forks Olympic National Park

Port Townsend



Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue


Colville Okanogan

Port Orchard





Renton Kent Federal Way



Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax


South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Cathlamet

Kelso Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland Prosser



Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver





14 Port Townsend Victorian Heritage Festival

42 Eldergrow


Northern State Recreation Area

20 San Juan Island Brewing

46 Hampton Inn


Ride Roslyn bike shop

23 Clover

48 Jamie Margolin


Hotel Maison

23 Schocolat

50 Wolf Haven International


Earth Sanctuary

38 Sue Taves

52 Northwest Battle Buddies


Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

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Discover the unsearchable Discover the forest

Find a trail near you at DiscoverTheForest.org

Until Next Time

My Mountain Memory written by Rob Kessler

IT WAS MY first trip to Ross Lake. I was 7, and Dad was taking me to his favorite fishing spot. The lake sits high in the North Cascades, above Gorge Lake and Diablo Lake. Each is part of three reservoirs that supply water and electricity to the surrounding areas. Ross Lake is the highest, connecting the United States and Canada. We arrived at Diablo in the early afternoon. This is where the journey started. The water was a vibrant green, an emerald jewel set in granite. We schlepped our gear—one cooler, one bag at a time—down to a floating metal dock, joining the other adventurers. There we waited for the workers ferry to pick us up. It was an old, blue tug that smelled of oil and diesel. Once onboard, we chugged our way up a narrow passage. Cliffs rose 300 feet, from below the water straight to the sky. Trees clung to the moss-covered sides, forming a natural bonsai garden. We eventually reached the base of Ross Dam, where a man with blonde dreadlocks loaded our gear onto a flatbed truck. A light mist covered us. We got onto the back of the flatbed and sat on old wooden benches as we bounced along a washboard switchback up and over the dam. As we approached Ross Lake, a cluster of cabins appeared from behind the trees. They were floating on the lake! In the distance, a speedboat roared in our direction, a rooster tail of water shooting up behind it. As it glided toward the dock, the pilot cut the engine. The boat’s sleek, wooden body and two 88          1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE


140-horsepower engines reminded me of a jet taxiing up to an airport gate. The co-pilot, a big, old golden retriever, suddenly hopped from the boat. He began to sniff around, examining everyone’s provisions and making note of who to visit first. Following behind him was a stubble-faced man whose white hair fell just above his cheekbones, making him look older than he was. He introduced himself as Tom, the owner Ross Lake Resort. Tom helped put our bags into the speedboat, never stopping to dilly-dally. We all got into the speedboat and Tom yelled, “Roland!”, beckoning the golden retriever back into the boat. The dog made his way back, slowly—unlike his owner, Roland had plenty of time to spare. The boat was untied and drifted out a few feet, then put into high gear. I held onto my ball cap as the boat shot across the lake like a well-skipped rock. After making our way past a sign that said, “NO WAKE,” we pulled up to our cabin. “Rainbow’s End” hung above the door. With our gear unloaded, Tom bid us farewell. We sat in Adirondack chairs and gazed out over the lake at the wilderness and serenity. We had finally made it.


You won’t find a more exquisitely inspiring mountain town than Missoula, Montana, where three rivers and seven wilderness areas converge in utter transcendence. The allure is immeasurable, and the culinary and live music scenes are downright remarkable, too. This hip little community is ecstasy for the outdoorsy, pulsating with arts, culture, big-city sounds, and friendly folks who happen to love really good local food and drink. Missoula doesn’t just satisfy the senses, it feeds the soul and offers a much needed escape to the fresh mountain air.


Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.

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