1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Spokane Travel Guide | April/May 2021

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TRIP PLANNER: WESTPORT PG. 78

Do-Good Investing

A Romantic Coastal Getaway

Foraged Fiddlehead Fern Recipes

ZOOM TOWNS Washington’s Top Places to Work Remotely

DIY @ HOME CREATE FUN, EASY ESCAPES FOR WORK AND PLAY 1889mag.com $5.95 display until May 31, 2021

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WASHINGTON April | May

volume 24


UNCORK the ADVENTURE


Welcome to OREGON WINE COUNTRY Oregon Wine Country is regaled for its more than 550 wineries, but it’s home to so much more. This is the place where pioneers come together to create a spark and satiate their curiosity surrounded by sweeping vistas begging to be explored. Start your journey with the official Willamette Valley Travel Guide.

oregonwinecountry.org

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Scene Stealers photography by Aaron Theisen From arid, year-round rideable roads traversing the wheat fields of the Palouse to singletrack through mossy cedar forests and wildflower-filled uplands, scenes from hundreds of miles of Eastern Washington cycling nirvana. (pg. 64)

Find premium evening riding at Saltese Uplands Conservation Area in Spokane Valley.

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FEATURES

Seattle’s Jackson St. Studio co-working space emphasizes comfort and clean lines.

APRIL | MAY 2021 • volume 24

58 DIY Design @ Home Dreaming of how to feel happier, healthier, more productive and relaxed at home? Whether it’s building a sauna for wellness, creating an office for focus and calm, a she-shed studio for meditating, painting or finding that much-needed, on-premises escape, we have expert tips on how it can all come together painlessly.

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50

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Zoom to Your Best Town

Pedal Pictorial

Less restrained by global headquarters and real-time face time? We see Zoom towns appearing across Washington for those choosing to live a fuller life. Where are people moving and what is next? We sifted the data and narrowed our list to the top five Zoom towns in the state.

The dry side of the state tempts cyclists with quiet, winding roads and forest trails with volcanic, fast-draining soil. Picture yourself in these pictures, scenes from a range of rides, from the Palouse to the Upper Columbia Valley and Spokane’s surroundings.

written by Misha Tompkins

written and photographed by Aaron Theisen

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Ellie Lillstrom Photography

written by Melissa Dalton


One first has the power to lead to thousands of other firsts. The first time to save a life, to welcome new life, and to provide care where care is hard to access. Thank you, Washington, for helping make ever y experience possible for our first graduating class of WSU doctors.

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DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

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Icicle Village Resort

Spring forward with no-frills funk, and a New York Times best-selling author’s novel unfolds amid real 20th-century battles for free speech and workers’ rights in Spokane.

20 FOOD + DRINK

This West Seattle brewery does a society good. The cocktail recipe that promises midnight fun. Discover a trip for the palate at a farm-side table.

24 FARM TO TABLE

You’ll want to fiddle with these ferns after reading about the chefs who forage for wild fiddleheads and create some lovely spring dishes. They share recipes for preparing these greens three diverse ways that show off the flavors of the forest.

28 HOME + DESIGN

Find out why one couple gave the name Treefort to their idyllic cabin in the Eastern Oregon wilderness, and travel to the central Cascades to tour rustic-meets-refined twin cabins. Add the National Park aesthetic to your home with these simple touches.

34 MIND + BODY

76

What does a psychologist do to stay sane while helping others during the pandemic? This researcher and professor shares coping strategies, especially helpful for minorities, including people of color, who have been particularly hard hit by the pandemic.

John Granen

Andy Porter

36 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Growing up in the Hilltop neighborhood of Tacoma in the ’90s, which had become one of the most troubled areas on the West Coast, prepared this artist and architect for creating public and private art works crafted from steel.

THINK 40 STARTUP

A glimpse inside Spokane’s new incubator behind cutting-edge companies.

42 WHAT’S GOING UP

This truly 21st-century public library includes flexible studio and shop spaces.

44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

At a critical inflection point for this planet and capital markets, we get an insider’s perspective on the new flow of money that might just save the planet.

46 MY WORKSPACE

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Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

At this Old World, Bavarian-style bakery tucked away inside a market, you might never have known the force behind the apple strudel and other pastries, made just the way your oma would, with real butter, eggs and fruit from surrounding orchards—until now.

48 GAME CHANGER

This scientist at the University of Washington had a jumpstart on Covid, having spent a career researching a test that can help identify early cases of a virus.

EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Washington’s only grape-growing region west of the Cascades, the Puget Sound AVA, is a 35-minute ferry ride from Seattle.

74 ADVENTURE

Hundreds of thousands of spring selfie-seekers head to this April tulip festival.

76 LODGING

Access alpine hikes from this base near Leavenworth’s Bavarian-style village.

78 TRIP PLANNER

COVER

Westport inhabitants like to think of themselves as living on the edge, literally and figuratively. Make your way to restaurants, museums and natural areas along the sea that explain why locals love where they live.

photo by Tyler Grobmeier Olympic National Forest (see Zoom Towns, pg. 50)

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84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

It’s a time for renewal, rejuvenation and romance. A long weekend along the northern Oregon Coast will do just that.

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everyone needs to explore seaside’s prom centennial! Can you find the reasons? There’s lots to see and do!

SEE: SALT WORKS TERRIBLE TILLY GRAY WHALES FAMOUS TURNAROUND SAND DOLLARS BALD EAGLES SUNSETS

P U U O M O Z B L Q K Z H O O P J W T D R K D N V J W U N Q F P

B U E J H S Q X V V S U G F T H

R A M V M C S A L T W O R K S E

S Y L L I T E L B I R R E T Y L

Q E S D E L J U N B S A U Y B C

B W I S E K G G X A G N S L U I

K Z N F S A N J N J R R D F B O

E U J W L J G D T B A U M E W D

S H I K E E D L U R Y T D T Y W

F N M K Q O S M E R W S Y I S Q

G S I G L Y K U U S H U K K Z F

B R Z L O T A L E G A O S I N R

H I A P J D Y G Q M L M P H Y W

Z R K R I C A M D Y E A O I T Y

S R L E V I K S M J S F W L V O

DO: BIKE SWING KITE FLY HIKE KAYAK GELATO SELFIES

If you’re searching for some fun come help us celebrate the Centennial of the Seaside Prom! That’s right, it’s been 100 years since our grand Promenade first graced a mile and a half of our beachfront. You’ll find lots to see and do and our Wi-Fi works great for any online school or work. Oh, and be sure to pick up your Centennial Booklet full of treasure hunts, trivia and four chances to win an epic Seaside getaway! SeasideProm.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

MARY HINDS Writer Bibliophile

JACKIE DODD Writer and Photographer Beervana

CARA STRICKLAND Writer Gastronomy

WILL AUSTIN Photographer Home + Design

Growing up on a farm in Oregon, I wrote my first (and favorite) article about my dad. After studying journalism at Northwestern University, I traded tall buildings for trees and returned to the Pacific Northwest in search of mountains and stories. In this issue, it was my pleasure to interview author Jess Walter and learn about Spokane’s history and the landscape that has shaped his life and literature. (pg. 18)

The craft beer world has a reputation for being full of good people, but it’s when those people do good things that it becomes inspirational. Writing about Good Society Brewing, it was easy to see the best of the best, all in one tap room. The beer is world-class, awardwinning and fantastic, and the people are salt-of-the-earth, on a mission to share proceeds with local charities. I mean, does it get better? If so, I’ve yet to find it. (pg. 20)

Years ago, I went to a mindblowing supper club made even more special with elegant, thoughtful wine pairings. The mastermind behind those pairings was Amber Park, who has gone from talented wine rep to wine, cheese and charcuterie purveyor at Wanderlust Delicato, this issue’s gastronomy feature. Whatever brings you to Spokane, put this lovely little downtown shop and some recommendations from Amber on your list. (pg. 22)

My heart leapt when I first saw this Leavenworth home. I knew instantly that this was a true work of architectural fine art. The location was almost impossibly beautiful as well. I strive to capture an architect’s vision with images that should also stand the test of time. Timing, light and space uniting to tell the larger story is the ultimate goal. (pg. 28)

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EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Elijah Aikens Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Melissa Dalton, Eric Flowers, Shirley A. Hancock, Mary Hinds, Joni Kabana, Ben Salmon, Cara Strickland, Misha Tompkins, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Will Austin, Jackie Dodd, Tyler Grobmeier, Shauna Intelisano, Joni Kabana, Ellie Lillstrom, Scott Minner, Aaron Theisen

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

APRIL | MAY 2021

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FROM THE

EDITOR-AT-LARGE IT’S ALL HAPPENING. The velocity of vaccines has increased since February harkening a summer return to conscientious travel and a reopening of institutions long shuttered. In this issue of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, we delve the state’s top Zoom Towns with data gleaned from Zillow. As the migration settles from the pandemic, we see the influx of people who are no longer tied to commute and office. We see people choosing where they want to live based not on employer, but on desire. In Zoom Towns on pg. 50, five Washington towns made the cut for the top five destinations of these mobile workers prompted by the pandemic. Another trend that came to the fore over the past year is ESG investing, or investors putting their money behind companies that are prioritizing the environment, social aspects of life and good corporate governance. Saturna Capital of Bellingham has been an advocate for ESG investing long before it became the thing. We catch up with Saturna Capital chief investment officer Scott Klimo on pg.

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44 to find out what impact ESG is having on the world. With spring comes a new crop of the oftoverlooked, versatile fiddlehead. On pg. 24, we forage for fiddleheads then find delicious use for them in salads, in a linguine dish and pickled. For many, fiddleheads are the beacon of spring and the cleansing of the rich winter palate. Cycling has taken a huge leap forward as people sought responsible ways to recreate in relative isolation. Combine austere and idyllic scenery with two wheels in Eastern Washington with these five routes of varying length and ability, from the Palouse to the Upper Columbia Valley and the Spokane area. (Go to pg. 64.) End your day with the cool-as-hell throwback organ jazz of the Delvon Lamarr Organ Trio. Based in Spokane, their riffs are a harbinger of a new ’70s vibe with striped pants, furs and bopping heads. “When you’re at our shows, it’s like being at a campfire with your friends,” said Lamarr. Turn to pg. 16, scan the Spotify code and chill, 2021 is here and it feels so familiar.


1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1889 Washington’s Magazine and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehoodmediadigital

WASHINGTON: IN FOCUS Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Brenda J. Ross A view from Maryhill Stonehenge Memorial.

A NEW WAY TO SHOP LOCAL Welcome to Local, a curated shop of cool goods made by small businesses in the Pacific Northwest, NEW from our sister publication, 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop

APRIL | MAY 2021

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SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 34

pg. 28 This tower-like cabin named Treefort required fortitude and persistence to build.

Will Austin

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 36


Karastan’s finders scour the globe for the rare and beautiful, taking inspiration from century-old sunken logs, weathered barnwood, and early 19th-century Appalachian timber. They meticulously capture nature’s imperfections and recreate them. Make them better. Give them a multilayer construction that resists water, scratches, and dents. And design them to live beautifully for generations to come.

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For 50 years, Great Floors has offered the Northwest’s largest selection of floor coverings and countertops. With our low-price guarantee and easy financing, you know you’re getting the best value in the Northwest whether you are building new or remodeling your existing home.

15 SHOWROOMS THROUGHOUT WASHINGTON Seattle Bellevue Federal Way Lynnwood

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®Great Floors is Registered Trademark of Great Floors LLC. Washington Contractors ors License Number GREATF*955D4. TF*955D4.


say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos Lex Luna Studio Filipina-American artist Alexa Villanueva created The Future Ancestor Tarot as “a beautiful tool to connect with your intuition and dreams.” The goal of the cards is to provide empowerment and healing and be a love letter for hope, gratitude and commitment to honoring the land on which we live and the path our ancestors took to get us where we are. She created the cards using sumi ink, watercolor paper, fallen leaves and flowers in Seattle. www.lexaluna.com

Aya Yoga Oasis

Me’s Way Last spring, the nation’s top food journalists were atwitter about the great chili crisp craze, dubbing it the condiment of the pandemic. They hailed the oil-slicked, thick, crunchy sauce as the go-to for every home chef in lockdown, noting new iterations from stars such as Momofuku’s David Chang and a product demand rate rivalling that of N95s. Alas, they missed a hidden crown jewel in this treasure chest, Me’s Way, made by Chau Tonnu, a first generation Vietnamese American immigrant in Normandy Park. Most palates can’t pinpoint why her mildly heat-packing, garlic-sugary version is spectacularly more flavorful than the top-seller, but we can’t resist telling you that it’s anchovy. www.meswayllc.com

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Harmonizing mind and body as a spring ritual sounds perfect right about now. Aya Yoga Oasis’s virtual workshop on April 17 offers that by focusing on the season’s balancing element, wood. Gain insight into this earth element and qi, or energy, and its corresponding energy channels, through yoga, meditation and qi-balancing recipes. A retreat on May 8 promises to renew wellness and community beside the Puget Sound at Founders Lodge in Des Moines Beach Park, with socially distanced meditation, yoga, art journaling and discussion. www.ayayogaoasis.com


say wa?

Pantone and Chown

Spokane Arts Arts Mean Business: Music Video Series, launched by Spokane Arts and local musician Olivia Brownlee, shows how artists can help local businesses in tough times. Spokane Arts secured grants for local filmmakers and musicians who’d lost work due to the pandemic so they could create promotional videos spotlighting local businesses also suffering from shutdowns and Covid restrictions. The first of four music videos features local band Buffalo Jones, promoting live music venue The Big Dipper. www.spokanearts.org

Water’s Table

The Pantone Institute, forecaster of global color trends, has declared that two colors are setting the tone for 2021. The colors “ultimate gray” and “illuminating” convey strength and hopefulness, according to the company. Evoking an enduring and uplifting mood, the colors are popping up in clever designs. Sonneman’s proton alpha LED pendant and the morii LED wall lamp are two examples, found at retailers around Washington including Chown in Bellevue. www.chown.com

Lingering beside a lake in spring, glass of wine in hand, perusing a menu of dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients— sounds dreamy, yes? No need to wake up to a different reality. Water’s Table at the Hyatt Regency Lake Washington has transformed its lakefront restaurant into an outdoor escape with its heated, covered pavilion. Replete with bistro chandeliers, great views and Italian cuisine. Open for lunch weekdays, dinner nightly and brunch, weekends. Boat parking, too. www.hyatt.com

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say wa?

Musician

Worldwide Vibes

From left, Drummer Dan Weiss, organist Delvon Lamarr and guitarist Jimmy James conjure up potent soul, funk and jazz.

The Delvon Lamarr Organ Trio’s sophomore album is irresistible soul-jazz written by Ben Salmon

Listen on Spotify

DELVON LAMARR was “on the verge of pulling the plug on the music thing” when something his wife had been saying for years finally clicked. “She’d watched me struggle as an artist with all these bands that were good, but weren’t going anywhere,” he said in a telephone interview from his home in Spokane. “It just seemed like no one had the passion necessary to do it the right way. So she’d say, ‘You know what? You should start a band. All you have a to do is find some guys and write the music, and I’ll do everything else.’” Years later, that’s still how the Delvon Lamarr Organ Trio operates. Lamarr coaxes vintage sounds from the jazz organ, Jimmy James lays down sizzling guitar licks and new drummer Dan Weiss supplies the ultra-tight rhythms. Lamarr’s wife, Amy Novo, is the band’s owner and manager yet they also consider her the band’s founding member—even though she has never played a note. “People don’t realize the major force she is in this band,” Lamarr said. “We literally would not exist without her.” 16

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Not only do they exist, they’re flourishing. Since 2015, the DLO3, as they’re known, has grown from a popular regional act with a strong following across the Northwest to a live powerhouse that tours the world and is legitimately big in Europe. Along the way, the band has released two fine albums: 2016’s Close But No Cigar and I Told You So, which came out in January on Colemine Records, a leading label for modern soul music. Both albums capture the trio’s potent, no-frills take on instrumental soul, funk and jazz, which recalls the sound of Memphis soul giants and Stax Records house band Booker T. & the M.G.’s. But neither can quite match the sweaty, seductive experience of seeing the DLO3 perform up close and in person. “When you’re at our shows, it’s like being at a campfire with your friends,” Lamarr said. “No matter how big or how small the room, when we play, people engage with our music and they engage with us. It draws people in, every time.”


the perfect place to celebrate Spring is right here...

Seabeck

Home of the Kitsap Peninsula National Water Trails

Harpers Pier - Port Orchard Seattle-Tacoma International Airport

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Port Gamble Guest Houses 360-447-8473 | portgambleguesthouses.com Red Lion Port Orchard 360-895-7818 | tinyurl.com/y4d3jsu3 Hampton Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-405-0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com Bainbridge Island Lodging Association DestinationBainbridge.com Airbnb - airbnb.com. Type in the name of town to find a place to stay on the Kitsap Peninsula.


say wa?

Bibliophile

Cold Comfort Jess Walter’s latest novel depicts adventure, activism in early 1900s Spokane interview by Mary Hinds

JESS WALTER GREW UP in Spokane, the son of a steelworker and grandson of itinerant workers. His seventh novel, The Cold Millions, is a tribute to his hometown as well as his family’s working-class roots. Set in 1909 against the backdrop of the Spokane free speech fight, the story follows two fictional brothers swept up in the workers’ rights movement as they witness social unrest, police violence and turbulent protests sparked by clashes between the International Workers of the World activists known as the Wobblies and the city’s corrupt employment agencies. Blending fiction with real people and events, the narrative details Western life at the turn of the century and the energy of a young, booming town in transition. Walter writes: “Spokane felt like the intersection of Frontier and Civilized, the final gasp of a thing before it turned into something else.” Walter’s The Zero was a finalist for the National Book Award in 2006 and Beautiful Ruins was a New York Times numberone best seller in 2013. How did you first learn about the Spokane free speech fight of 1909 and what motivated you to write this story? I first read about the free speech fight in Spokane fifteen or twenty years ago, and I filed it away as a potential novel idea, chipping away at research and imagining characters. As I searched for a way to write about income inequality and injustice in America during the last four or five years, I found myself drawn back to that time, to the end of the last Gilded Age and the last time the gap between the wealthy and the poor was as wide as it is now. I hoped to write something with the big archetypal characters and action of a late 18     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Jess Walter’s latest work has the action of a late Western but with the heart of a social novel.

Western, but with the heart of a social novel. What is one of your favorite things you learned about your hometown while writing The Cold Millions? Also, how has the research for this book changed your perspective of the place where you live? I think people are surprised to find out what a booming city Spokane was during this period: a major theater town and the crossroads of railroad, mining, timber and agriculture, a place of millionaires and private security goons, of corrupt cops, of labor organizers and thousands of itinerant workers—hobos and tramps in the parlance of the time.

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Some of the hardscrabble authenticity of Spokane—which I love—owes itself to that history, I think. This book balances a specific time in history with timeless concerns like economic inequality and social justice. As an author, how do you ask big questions and entertain at the same time? Well, I guess I would say—how do you not at least try to ask big questions and to entertain at the same time? That seems to me a pretty fair definition of what I want a novel to do. I sometimes tell people that I just write the next book I want to read, but that makes it sound awfully easy. And like a lot of things, I suppose, the simpler the concept, the more difficult the task.


Sunshine for all Seasons!

Photo: Kay Gerdes

Bike Hike Glide Breathe - Please Recreate Responsibly 1-800-737-8462 visitsunnysequim.com

moonstruckchocolate.com

Alsea Falls Recreation Site

Undiscovered art. Undiscovered innovation. Undiscovered tastes.

Undiscovered

Explore sixty miles of hiking and biking paths. Spot osprey and eagles at a national wildlife refuge. Cool down where a quiet creek becomes a 30-foot waterfall.

visitcorvallis.com/trails 800.334.8118

Come visit Corvallis and discover what you’ve been missing.


food + drink

Beervana

Seattle’s Golden Boys Brew with a Big Heart written and photographed by Jackie Dodd LAST YEAR was a time when only someone with audacious hope or reckless optimism would have decided to open a brewery with a core business model of on-premise sales. Even with the plummeting lows of such an exhausting year, the newly opened Good Society Brewing in West Seattle saw a high that exceed the aspirations of even longtime beer-slinging entrepreneurs. Phil Cammarano and Nick Berger opened West Seattle’s Good Society Brewing in February of 2020, five weeks before a global pandemic and statewide stay-at-home order closed their taproom. Days later, the crew faced a “candemic,” a global shortage of aluminum cans, and the ability to sell take-away beer evaporated. A few weeks later, the bridge and main artery into West Seattle was closed with no definitive reopening date. The blows kept coming, but luckily, so did the patrons. A crowd of mostly locals continued to patronize Good Society in whatever ways they could, to the shock of Berger and Cammarano. “I guess I’m just still so surprised that people want to pay for my beer,” said Cammarano, despite the awards his beers have won and the outstanding reviews the brewery receives even in the market-saturated Pacific Northwest. One award is the stuff of most brewers’ dreams, the Great American Beer Festival’s Small Brew Pub of the Year award, plus the gold medal for their Belgian ale, First to Fall, in a competition with thousands of entrants. Awards played a role in connecting the partners in the endeavor. Berger had spent countless hours fleshing out his idea for a brewery in which a large portion of its proceeds would go to charity. He was at a homebrew shop one day, standing in front of a wall of homebrew awards all bearing the name Phil Cammarano. When he met the man behind the awards, they hit it off and began to partner on the concept of a brewery that gives back. Even after years of people trying to lure the talented Cammarano into a brewery partnership, it was Berger’s fully formed ideas and

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Stampede Cocktail Club, Seattle

Midnight to Midnight 20     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Phil Cammarano and Nick Berger’s Good Society Brewing has thrived with a prestigious award, dedicated patrons and a mission to support charities.

thoughtful plans that sealed the deal. The team found the ideal location, a space in West Seattle with the perfect mix of airy, open space and Old World charm, big enough for a brewery and small enough to feel cozy. The first few weeks surprised them. “We just hoped the fire marshal wouldn’t shut us down,” Berger says of the crowds spilling out onto the sidewalk and jockeying for space at the bar. It lasted five weeks before the lockdown order crushed the momentum. Even with the labyrinth of obstructions they’ve navigated since then, the team is staying afloat and still dedicated to their mission to support social justice and environmental charities, which have a local impact. It hasn’t been a year they could have prepared for, but it has cemented them into the Seattle beer scene with a crowd of loyal fans that grows every day.

•  1½ ounces Averna amaro liqueur •  1 ounce pineapple juice

•  ¾ ounce lime juice •  ¼ ounce grenadine •  2 dashes cherry bitters •  1 dash celery bitters

Add ingredients to cocktail shaking tin. Add ice. Shake ultra-vigorously, remembering you were trained in the school of the wolf. Double strain into your favorite coupe. Ours is a Mazda Miata.

APRIL | MAY 2021


ALCOHOL BEVERAGE LAWS VARY BY STATE. PLEASE BE GUIDED ACCORDINGLY. © 2020 ELYSIAN BREWING COMPANY, SEATTLE, WA


Erin Peterson

food + drink

CRAVINGS FRESH PASTA There’s nothing quite like freshly made pasta, unless of course it’s also accompanied by beautifully prepared sauces. You’ll find all this at Passatempo, where the ravioli filling changes with the creativity of the chef and the turn of the season. 215 W. MAIN ST. WALLA WALLA www.passatempowallawalla.com

UPSCALE PUB GRUB Walking into Everybody’s Brewing feels as if you’re retreating to a lodge with a view that’s as expansive as the beer selection. We suggest strapping on a pair of Foggy Goggles pints, with its hoppy, citrusy sweetness. Pair it with fivecheese macaroni and cheese, fish and chips or other hearty offerings on this crowd-pleasing menu. 177 E. JEWETT BLVD. WHITE SALMON www.everybodysbrewing.com

Gastronomy

Amber Park’s Wanderlust Delicato is the place for wine, cheese, charcuterie and cooking classes in downtown Spokane.

Wanderlust Delicato written by Cara Strickland FOR YEARS, Amber Park had dreamed of opening a place where she could gather the bounty of the world, as well as people to enjoy it. That dream became Wanderlust Delicato, a wine, cheese and charcuterie shop in downtown Spokane. You can stop in for a glass of wine and a bite to eat, or check out the selection of local beer and cider. Park has resumed her popular cooking classes, while limiting class sizes. They often feature local guest chefs, farmers, nutritionists and cookbook authors. By joining the wine club, you let Park introduce you to new flavors, one of the reasons for her previous success as a wine rep. Whatever you crave, you’ll likely discover something you love here. Close your eyes, and it might even feel like you’ve traveled somewhere else, if only for a moment. 421 W. MAIN ST. SPOKANE www.wanderlustdelicato.com

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COFFEE With Mid-century Modern vibes and serious coffee chops, Ladder has stepped up from one to three locations with no fear of heights. If you’re not a purist, try one of their seasonal lattes with flavors such as rose, lavender and cardamom. 1516 W. RIVERSIDE AVE. SPOKANE www.laddercoffee.com

SOUP Yodelin is serious about its bone broth, and once you try it, you will be, too. To wit: the wild Pacific Northwest halibut bone coconut curry broth with udon noodles, roasted red peppers, shiitake mushrooms, gai lan Chinese broccoli, cilantro and daikon radish will make you want to yodel. 633 FRONT ST., #1346 LEAVENWORTH www.yodelinbroth.com

APRIL | MAY 2021


food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

DOUGHNUTS SLUYS POULSBO BAKERY This family-owned bakery has history dating back to 1966, but there’s no time like the present to try its delicious baked goods, especially their handmade, filled and dipped doughnuts. Try the Viking Cup, or really, try them all. 18924 FRONT ST. NE POULSBO www.sluyspoulsbobakery.com

GENERAL PORPOISE These cute, airy doughnut shops are just what you’d expect from Seattle restaurant queen Renee Erickson. The flavors are simple and delicious, made with care and quality ingredients. It all combines into an experience that melts in your mouth. 1020 E. UNION ST. 4520 UNION BAY PLACE NE SEATTLE www.gpdoughnuts.com

DONUT PARADE A Spokane staple since 1968, this sweet little shop was recently passed down from the original owners to a former customer. They must have passed some tricks of the trade along with the keys because the doughnuts haven’t skipped a beat. Don’t leave without trying the mint Bavarian cream.

Orchard Kitchen uses produce from their farm in dishes to enjoy family style.

Dining

Orchard Kitchen written by Cara Strickland

Who says you need gluten to have fun? This Bingen bakery is out to prove that gluten-free doughnuts can be just as delicious, with seasonal flavors. The same philosophy applies to their other baked goods and breakfast and lunch items. You might not miss the gluten at all.

FOR MORE than five years, this unassuming spot has been serving delightful dinners at communal tables. Unfortunately, Covid has interrupted that vision, but it has unexpectedly inspired other ones. Along with takeout and meal kits, Orchard Kitchen in Langley has also started a community supported agriculture (CSA) subscription model of selling produce from the farm, plus a retail space where you can buy the local food they champion so well. As the weather warms, Orchard Kitchen hopes to welcome guests to dine right in the place your food grows. The goal was always to bring diners closer to the land where the food is farmed, and a newly extended patio helps achieve that. Until the communal tables once again brim with family-style dishes and glasses of wine, owners Vincent and Tyla Nattress are committed to offering a dining experience in which every bite is as fresh and local as the last.

740 E. STEUBEN ST. BINGEN www.columbiagorgeglutenfree.com

5574 BAYVIEW ROAD LANGLEY, WHIDBEY ISLAND www.orchardkitchen.com

2152 N. HAMILTON ST. SPOKANE www.facebook.com/donutparadespokane

COLUMBIA GORGE BAKERY

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Photos: Charity Burggraaf

farm to table

Chef Nick Coffey foraging for ingredients.

Farm to Table

Fiddlehead Foraging

Island chefs experiment with young ferns’ furled fronds written by Corinne Whiting CHEF NICK COFFEY and his wife, Nova Askue, fulfilled a longtime desire to relocate to Lopez Island, where they opened their restaurant, Ursa Minor, in 2017. “Lopez has always been our getaway from Seattle,” Coffey said. “We were always looking for any excuse to get there. We dreamed of finding our way to the island and doing what we do.” The duo has now made waves near and far for serving hyper-local, innovative, Northwest cuisine in a casual space. The building they landed in was built in the early ’80s, and they are the fourth restaurant to inhabit the venue. “We took over the space and made it our own,” Coffey said. Coffey works directly with nearby farmers, fishermen and foragers to highlight a cuisine that reflects the island’s rural, tranquil landscape. “We use a lot of local ingredients and try to concentrate on flavors of the San Juan archipelago and surrounding water and woods,” he said. One such item? The fiddlehead, which Coffey deems an “unusual and great spring ingredient.” Coffey has worked at restaurants throughout Seattle, but credits one, the former Sitka & Spruce, with introducing him to so many wild foods. Working with James Beard award-winning chef Matt Dillon and local vendor Jeremy Faber, founder of 24

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Foraged and Found Edibles, is where this side of the culinary world became a passion. Coffey’s education in foraging, founded in using the ingredients in dishes, spurred him to do his own research and read about it before going out in the field with experts. After having worked in the Seattle market for years, Coffey had built countless relationships with regional farmers and foragers. He likens leaving the city to pressing “reset.” Moving to Lopez required him to establish new connections and find new products, too. The couple now does much of the foraging themselves, especially in the spring, when the ferns’ green, leafy new shoots are abundant. Foraging season spans from March to the end of June, but Coffey recommended identifying their growing areas in summer, when the fronds are open and easy to spot, even though the time for picking them has passed. “Scope out an area a year or a few seasons in advance,” he suggested. Not all types of these flavorful furls are safe to eat, however, so look for the lady fern fiddleheads, which have a U-shaped groove down the inside of the stem. “[Fiddleheads] are really a product of their environment,” he added. “They take in different flavors based on where you find them.” While some may be too earthy, bitter, or astringent for certain


farm to table

Ursa Minor owners Nova Askue and Nick Coffey.

palates, other versions of fiddleheads have a more neutral taste—green and crunchy. It’s common to pickle the ingredient. “We pickle everything,” Coffey added. He finds fiddleheads to be a fun garnish for spring dishes, and they can be wonderful additions to tomato-based recipes, too. To take a more Italian route, he suggests replacing capers with chopped-up fiddleheads. “You want them when completely curled, circled, like the fiddlehead on top of a violin,” Coffey said, adding that the plant should snap naturally where it’s tender. As the ferns begin to unfurl as the weather warms, foragers can head to cooler areas to harvest them. “Like with other wild greens, what’s nice about Washington … is you can just go up in elevation as spring unfolds and find them higher and higher,” he said. Nearby on Orcas island, Raymond Southern, chef and owner of Kingfish at West Sound, sources his fiddleheads straight from his home turf, too. “They usually start appearing end of March or early April at best,” he said. “I normally wait till closer to May to start looking to ensure they are full and plump.” While Southern enjoys recipes like fiddlehead pesto, his favorite dates back to childhood. “We would pick fiddleheads in the back fields of our farm,on the way back from fishing trout at the lake,” he said. “We would boil the fiddleheads while pan-frying the trout in lemon and butter.” Once the trout was done and removed from the pan, they scooped the fiddleheads from the boiling water and sautéed them in the trout pan, adding a bit more lemon plus salt and pepper. The end result: a memorable lunch of fresh trout and fiddleheads. Southern’s words of wisdom for newbie fiddlehead chefs? First and foremost, he said, “Eat them right away. Don’t let your fiddleheads sit around as they discolor and lose their fresh taste really fast.” Also, for any preparation, he advises blanching them first. To do this, cook them for about thirty seconds in rapidly boiling salted water with the pot covered, to preserve their bright green color. Then immediately cool them in ice water. “From here, they can be simply sauteed with lemon and butter or added to pestos and other purees,” he said. “Or even blended up into soups.” The possibilities for fiddlehead recipes seem infinite, with few better ways to celebrate the arrival of a fresh, new season. It’s wise to avoid eating raw or undercooked fiddleheads. Coffey suggested referring to more foraging tips at www.plants.alaska.gov/pdf/Fiddleheads.pdf. APRIL | MAY 2021

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farm to table

Pickled Fiddlehead Ferns

Ursa Minor / LOPEZ ISLAND Nick Coffey •  3 parts apple cider vinegar •  1 part sugar •  1 generous pinch of salt (Note: The recipe is given as a ratio so that it can be scaled up or down based on the quantity of fiddleheads. For example, 1 ½ cups vinegar, ½ cup sugar and 2 tablespoons of salt should cover about 20 fiddleheads.) Kingfish at West Sound’s linguine with fiddlehead pesto.

Washington Recipes

Fiddling Around

Assemble and boil the brine, and pour immediately over the fiddleheads. Cover with a piece of parchment to ensure they are submerged. They can be used right away or stored in the fridge and used to garnish anything needing a piquant flare.

Spring Contorno with Fiddlehead Ferns and Spiced Pomodoro Bruciato / BAINBRIDGE ISLAND Brendan McGill SERVES 6 •  8 ounces sunchokes, washed carefully and cut into bite-size pieces •  8 ounces radishes, whole •  8 ounces delicata squash, cut horizontally, scoop out seeds and cut into half-rings •  8 ounces beets, sliced into wedges •  8 ounces fiddlehead ferns, blanched •  2 ounces olive oil •  Kosher salt, to taste •  ½ bunch fresh oregano •  1 cup spiced pomodoro FOR SPICED POMODORO Yields 3 cups •  2 cups tomato purée •  ½ Calabrian chili (or 1 tablespoon of prepared, chopped Calabrian chilies packed in oil) •  ½ cup oil from pickled peppers (homemade or store-bought) •  ½ cup extra virgin olive oil FOR SPICED POMODORO Blend everything in a powerful

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Linguine with Fiddlehead Pesto blender. (Spiced pomodoro will keep in the refrigerator for a week.) FOR FIDDLEHEAD FERNS Wash the fiddleheads vigorously in water. Trim off any brown, oxidized bits around the base. Bring a pot of salted water to a brisk boil and submerge the ferns for 3 to 5 minutes, or until tender. Remove the ferns from the pot and place in ice water to shock them. Drain on a towel. FOR CONTORNO Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Arrange the vegetables in a single layer on a pan or baking dish, drizzle with olive oil and salt, and roast for approximately 15 minutes. FOR PLATING Once the vegetables are cooked through, remove them from the oven and sauce generously with the spiced pomodoro. Place in a serving and garnish over the top with oregano. The pomodoro can also be served on the side for dipping.

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Kingfish at West Sound / EASTSOUND Raymond Southern SERVES 4 •  3 cups fresh, well-cleaned fiddleheads, steamed but still crunchy •  2 large bunches fresh basil •  3 small cloves garlic •  1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano •  ¼ cup toasted pine nuts •  ¾ cup olive oil (more, if needed) •  Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste Set 1 cup of fiddleheads aside. In a food processor, pulse all of the rest of the ingredients except the olive oil until they are finely chopped. Between pulses, slowly pour the olive oil in a thin stream. Scrape the sides of the bowl and add more oil if needed to achieve a moderately thick and creamy, pesto-like consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil linguine in salted water until done. Drain pasta, making sure to save some of the pasta water. Toss linguine with desired amount of pesto sauce in a large sauté pan. Add reserved fiddleheads and some reserved pasta water, as needed to allow the sauce to coat the pasta. Arrange on plates, and serve immediately with more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.


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t e g t n a ’ c u o Y ! t s e w h t r o any more N The Northwest is a way of life, not just a place – and you can’t get any more Northwest than Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. When you’re ready to experience wide open spaces and tranquil places, we’re here to welcome you back!

Get your FREE travel planner and begin your next Northwest adventure at OlympicPeninsula.org.


home + design

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home + design

Into the Woods

These cabins are the ultimate idylls in the Eastern Washington wilderness written by Melissa Dalton

Photos: Will Austin

Leavenworth: A family builds their dream cabin in a challenging spot ABOUT FIVE YEARS AGO, happily settled in their careers as medical professionals in Seattle, Rachel and Matthew Epstein found themselves dreaming of the mountains. “All we ever wanted to do every weekend was explore the outdoors and our backyard of Washington,” Rachel said. The couple had recently returned to their home state after residencies on the East Coast. Comfortable in their Seattle rental, instead of house-hunting there, they searched for property around Leavenworth, a place they loved for its community, food scene and access to the outdoors, all just a two-hour drive from the city. One Friday night after work, Rachel saw a listing that grabbed her. Early the next morning, the couple made the trip to see it. Turns out, it was a rarity: the last undeveloped lot at the end of a road, bordered by Icicle Creek and U.S. Forest Service land. “It was at the gateway to the Enchantments,” Rachel said. “There was nothing beyond it, just protected land.” It was exactly what they’d sought. “What we really wanted was half an acre, surrounded by thousands of acres,” Matthew said. The next four years of design and construction would reveal the lot’s challenges, from its steep slope filled with boulders, to its restricted access due to a narrow road and two private bridges. “My first impression was, ‘This is a super difficult site,’” architect Steven Booher said. Booher and architect Todd Smith, owner of Leavenworth firm Syndicate Smith, worked with the Epsteins to realize their cabin dream. “Matt and I, in life, are problem solvers,” Rachel said, noting that their architects and builder, A.P. Construction, all embraced the same ethos. “Everyone on our team had the same perspective: This is tricky. It’s not easy, but we can solve this problem.” Now, the tower-like cabin is an ode to their perseverance. “We named the cabin the Treefort, both because it is a literal fort among the trees, but also because of the word fortitude,” Rachel said. “It took fortitude and persistence from so many parts of the team. We really felt like it was a testament to that.” CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT A protected footbridge leads to Treefort, which required fortitude to build at the end of a road bordered by Icicle Creek and Forest Service land. Maple plywood frames windows, revealing river and canyon views. A roof deck expands the living space of the roughly 1,000-square-feet cabin. Morning views include the canyon walls capped in snow or fog, or bathed in golden light.

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home + design

Photos: John Granen

the filtration and 2,500-gallon cistern in the basement. “All of the water for the whole home is captured via the roof,” Smith said. Even better is the magical feeling the couple gets upon waking up in their cabin, a pinch-me moment when they glance out the window and see the canyon walls capped in snow, or fog, or bathed in golden light, depending on the season. “It’s just this really dramatic view that when you wake up, it tells you: ‘You’re in the mountains,’ ” Matthew said.

Central Cascades: Twin cabins are rustic-meets-refined family retreats

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP A simple peaked roof and extruded wings extend over the porches. An eclectic cabin aesthetic includes reclaimed wood from the property’s 1890s barn. Concrete floors and exposed plywood panels are durable. Pratt & Larson tile enhances the bathroom.

The cabin’s rich charcoal siding and Corten steel accents are a pleasant contrast to the natural surroundings. A protected footbridge leads inside, where maple plywood covered walls ensconce, and abundant windows frame river and canyon views. “We had recently traveled to Europe and really fell in love with Scandinavia and admired homes in thickly-treed areas that had dark exteriors and really light, bright interiors,” Rachel said. The couple’s primary must-have was a small footprint, so the home clocks in at just over 1,000 square feet, with the shared living spaces stacked over a floor with two bedrooms. At the top of the home is a roof deck with stunning views. The couple requested the deck as a third bedroom of sorts, where people could camp out, lounge or dine, effectively expanding the living space of the small cabin. Since an on-site well wasn’t possible, the roof is also part of a rainwater collection system, with 30     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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It took a collaborative effort to satisfy the priorities of two clients in the design and build of twin guest cabins tucked into the woods on the Eastern side of the Cascades in central Washington. “What makes these clients unique is that their two passions in life are family and their love of the outdoors,” said Kathleen Glossa, interior designer and founder of Swivel Interiors. In 2015, Glossa teamed up with architects from Board & Vellum and construction firm Dowbuilt. Located on a larger ranch property, the owners wanted to create comfortable spots where their grown children could come stay with their own families. Each cabin has two bedrooms and one bathroom arrayed over approximately 900 square feet, with a simple peaked roof and extruded wings over the porches. The exterior forms and materials, which includes metal walls and a tin roof, reference common outbuildings in the area. All the better for these new cabins to fit in. “The second you open up the car door, the air is different there,” said Glossa. “The ground is a little crunchy from all the needles from the trees. And then you just have a little bit of a teasing vista between the trees. The cabins are really about sitting quietly on the land without calling attention to themselves.” Inside, the goal was to nod to an iconic, even eclectic, cabin aesthetic, while prioritizing easy maintenance and durability. Dowbuilt enveloped a central support wall in reclaimed wood, the boards salvaged from a falling-down 1890s barn that once stood on the property. The contractor carefully mitered and aligned each board to achieve a fluid wrap around the corners, preserving its natural patina, including knicks, scars and even lichen in some places. Concrete floors and exposed plywood panels on the remaining walls are equally hard-wearing. “There’s not a drop of drywall in either dwelling,” Glossa said. The designer tapped Seattle blacksmith Black Dog Forge to fabricate iron hardware, from the cabinet pulls to the drapery rods. Atop the custom kitchenette cabinets, the countertops are a slim profile of solid-surface material, called Dekton. Bright colors, from the window seat bench cushions dressed in outdoor fabric, to the brilliant green Pratt & Larson tile in the bathroom, balance the wood tones. The finishing touches, antique furnishings, have been in the family for years and would be easily recognized by the cabin’s visitors. Such was the point: “To have a welcoming, sweet spot that felt like home,” Glossa said.


home + design

John Granen

Bright colors of cushions in outdoor fabric balance the wood tones, and finishing touches include antique furnishings which have been in the family for years.

FEBRUARY APRIL | MARCH | MAY 2021

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John Granen

home + design

Manmade materials offer easy maintenance and durability.

DIY: Designing for Durability FOR THE TWIN CABIN interiors, “making everything washable, hearty, built to last” was paramount, interior designer Kathleen Glossa said. “There’s nothing in there that you can’t worry about a grandchild picking up and putting their jam-filled fingers on.” Here are her tips for doing the same. HEARTY FABRICS Glossa picked fabrics for the upholstery and drapery that can be used indoors and out, meaning they clean easily, sometimes with bleach and resist fading from the sun. Such fabric “doesn’t feel like canvas anymore,” Glossa said. “They can feel like velvet or chenille or wool.” When searching for these, look for fabrics that contain solution-dyed acrylic.

TIME-TESTED FURNITURE Furnishing with family antiques not only gave the new cabins authenticity, the fact that the pieces already have a little wear and tear is a boon, too. For brand new pieces, Glossa opted for brands that are known for their solid designs: Old Hickory Furniture, which has been in business since 1899, and lighting from Barn Light Electric.

SURFACES BUILT TO LAST The plywood walls and concrete floors are two finishes that no one needs to fret over. Same for the counters in the kitchen and bath. “Consider manmade materials over natural stone, which can be more porous and require more upkeep,” Glossa said. Dekton by Cosentino is a solid surface material that can be used inside or out. It’s resistant to scratches, stains, freezing and thawing, fire and heat and UV fading.

DON’T FORGET THE FUN “Sometimes focusing on durability can feel like you’re taking the fun out of it,” Glossa said. She recommends searching marketplaces like Etsy to find a few artisan pieces to sprinkle in, like the shower curtains in the cabins. “It’s a low-cost way to add a little whimsey,” Glossa said.

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home + design

Quintessential Cabin Goods Get the National Park aesthetic with these small touches Is there anything more versatile in the kitchen than cast iron cookware? Take the classic cast iron skillet from Lodge. It can just as easily be used for searing a steak as baking apple crisp and can be used on the stovetop, oven, grill or campfire. Available in nine sizes. www.lodgecastiron.com

Despite its industrial roots, the original warehouse gooseneck light from Barn Light Electric is equally at home inside or on the exterior of a cabin. Customize the fixture to your taste, from the swoop of the neck, to the color and finish, with options that range from a cherry red porcelain to a natural metal, such as raw copper. www.barnlight.com

Perhaps nowhere is it more important to have a designated spot for dumping dirty shoes than in a cabin. Try the slim cubby bench from Room & Board to corral those wet and muddy soles. Its powder-coated steel frame is sturdy, and with sixteen vibrant shades to choose from, it’ll be a happy dose of color when walking in the door. www.roomandboard.com

In the 1800s, pioneering settlers started bending hickory saplings into furniture pieces, something that Old Hickory Furniture still does today. Having furnished everything from National Park lodges to summer camps in the Adirondacks, their collection will look right at home in a cozy cabin. Available at NW Home Interiors in Bend, Oregon. www.oldhickory.com

APRIL | MAY 2021

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mind + body Psychologist Patrick Raue discusses his own pandemic coping strategies and how to find yours.

Plan for Mental Health

How a mental health expert cares for himself, and advice for your own wellness written by Eric Flowers AS A TRAINED clinical psychologist, researcher and professor, Patrick Raue spends more time than most thinking about the causes of anxiety and depression and strategies for coping with them. Usually, those thoughts are focused around the applied research that he does at the University of Washington, where he specializes in helping institutions and individuals develop early intervention tools for combating mental illness. One of Raue’s specialties is training caregivers who work with seniors who are particularly likely to develop symptoms of depression. Isolation is one of the main contributing factors.

Over the past ten months, Raue has found himself using some of these strategies to cope with the ongoing pandemic and social life restrictions. In the clinical world, Raue and his colleagues call this “behavior activation,” but you can also think of it as simply staying busy. That can be busy with exercise, a planned social interaction, such as a phone call or a Zoom meeting, a hobby, or anything that engages your brain and provides a sense of purpose. “When we feel good, we have the whole world open to us,” Raue said. Ordinarily, we don’t have to be deliberate about making plans that maintain our mental health. It happens organically. But these unusual times call for a different approach, he said. “When there is an external limitation or an internal limitation like depression, we have to be more ‘plan-ful’,” which Raue says means setting aside at least half an hour each day to do something that you find fulfilling or rewarding. Raue enjoys cycling, and this year he bought better winter cycling gear to extend the season. When he can’t get on his bike, he makes time for a walk around his neighborhood or to explore the city. If he’s been stuck in front of a computer all day, he’ll make time for that walk even after dusk. “Normally I would not make a big effort to walk if it’s dark, but I’ve found I really enjoy that,” he said. “I am lucky to live in a relatively safe neighborhood. I’ve always liked exploring the city and neighborhood and the architecture, and have seen parts of my own extended neighborhood I never saw before,” Raue said. While the pandemic is universal, the strategies for coping with it are individual. That means finding activities you enjoy. If you are having difficulty, Raue recommends a brainstorming session to land on something that can be done individually or as a family. Now is a good time for a new hobby or renewing an old one. Raue is relearning German using a computer program, and he’s taking a virtual class on art history, something that he’s long been interested in, but didn’t have the time to pursue. “Slowing down offers more opportunities for reflection, with less distraction and hassle. Less commuting time and travel time really does open up more time for this,” Raue said.

INEQUALITIES AND STRATEGIES Minorities, including people of color, have been particularly hard hit by the pandemic. According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control, Covid hospitalization rates for Blacks and Hispanics in the U.S. was almost five times that for white Americans. It’s important to recognize these

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inequities, said Raue, who identifies as a member of Seattle’s LGBTQ community and has supported mental health outreach efforts to its population. Raue said getting more involved socially and politically can be good for your mental health, giving an outlet for the angst that many have felt over the past year.

APRIL | MAY 2021

Raue said people also can benefit from not bombarding themselves with negative news. Turn off, or turn down, the breaking news alerts on your phone. Limit your time scrolling headlines. “I still keep informed, but don’t let myself be on high alert the whole day,” Raue said.


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Chris Spadafore

artist in residence

From Glass to Steel Tacoma artist gratified to create art for the city that sculpted him written by Cathy Carroll

CHRIS SPADAFORE grew up in the Hilltop neighborhood of Tacoma in the ’90s, which had become one of the most troubled areas on the West Coast. “It was challenging, but I wouldn’t take anything back,” said Spadafore, whose SA Studio in Tacoma does public and private art commissions. “I gained a toughness— thick skin that I appreciate as an artist. Being a public artist/architect, you put your ideas out there on the table open for critique.”

Artist and architect Chris Spadafore says he is steadily honing his steel craftsmanship.


Chris Spadafore

Aaron Locke Photography

Chris Spadafore

artist in residence

FROM LEFT Chris Spadafore’s public art in Issaquah, which uses the local creek as a design inspiration and screens the view of parking. He created steel and concrete art for the Landing at Hawks Prairie in Lacey and these steel “Wings.”

He considers himself lucky to have been in that place at that time, because he and his sister were among the first to join the Hilltop Artists glass program, while they were at Stadium High School. In 1994, glass sculptor and Tacoma native Dale Chihuly saw that young people needed alternatives to being recruited by groups proliferating violence in the city’s streets, so he co-founded Hilltop Artists with local gallery owner Kathy Kaperick. “That’s where I first got a glimpse of professional artists in action,” said Spadafore, who graduated from Rhode Island School of Design with bachelor’s degrees in fine arts and architecture in 2005 and won his first public art commission in 2006. As an artist trained in architecture, it’s the site for which he’s creating a piece that tends to influence the work. “With public projects, prior to concepting, I prefer to have interactions with the local community in order to gain insight which could spark inspiration,” he said. “Sometimes there’s a feeling of being a translator of words to something physical you can experience. I’ll use a variation of sketching, 3D modeling, study models and dreaming to flush out ideas.” Works of art that he creates for his hometown are particularly gratifying. “I love Tacoma,” he said. “I take pride in every project I do, but Tacoma projects give me the sense that I am giving back to the city that has sculpted me.” Spadafore has worked with a range of media, including blown glass, metal, wood, ceramic and plastic, but lately his work has been primarily in steel. “I am steadily working on improving and honing my steel craftsmanship. When it comes to a new project, I try to let my skill or comfort level in a material influence the design direction. The concept comes first, then I figure out how to make it. Sometimes it requires me to learn new skill sets.” Spadafore did that in 2018, working with steel and stainless steel to create “Sway,” an outdoor public art piece at Meridian Habitat Park and Community Center in Puyallup. It’s a series of abstract, plantlike forms that gesturally bend to create the intended gateway to the park. The tall, curved stem-like shapes reach out to engage passersby. They are large enough to view at a distance, yet

offer a playful perspective when walking through them, so you might feel like an insect foraging through a field. The stalks are of painted tubular steel and the upper bulbs forms are stainless steel solid bar rings with a woven appearance. They’re intended for wildlife to build nests in them, creating a habitat, functional art true to the park’s name. The steel tubes sway in the breeze like reeds or grasses while maintaining their structural integrity, creating interest and drawing visitors to the site. Spadafore would much rather fabricate his own work such as he did with pieces such as “Sway” rather than divine and design a piece for someone else to build. SA Studio (SA is for Spadafore Arts) part public art, part custom fabrication with partner Tamar Jackson, called 80Grit Fabrication. The pandemic, however, has thrown a power hammer in the works. For instance, the fabrication of a public art piece for Milpitas, California, in Silicon Valley is temporarily on hold after Spadafore completed design and shop drawings for it. In the meantime, during the pandemic, he’s preoccupied with custom fabrication for local businesses and pursuing public art opportunities. It also turns out that even an architect has house projects to do. “Over the years of producing art, practicing architecture, being a husband and father of two boys, I have worked to maintain a healthy work-life balance,” he said. “Lately, due to Covid, the work-life lines are blurred way more. I expect to see more of the blurred lines as we spend more time at home.” The year was challenging to stay inspired, but his family and steady work helped Spadafore, an architect design lead for BCRA in Tacoma. “My creative muscles get regular exercise,” said Spadafore, whose life partner, Melissa, owns Blo Hair Lounge in Tacoma. They have two sons, ages 11 and 17, and a pup named Charli. “My oldest son has become increasingly interested in getting out to the shop to create stuff. It’s inspiring, teaching him and watching him grow.” The influence of Hilltop in the ’90s also endured with Spadafore’s sister, Christina Kandi, an artist who does all his shop drawings for his public art work and custom fabrication jobs. APRIL | MAY 2021

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STARTUP 40 WHAT’S GOING UP 42 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 44 MY WORKSPACE 46

pg. 40 Get a glimpse inside Spokane’s new incubator of next generation, cutting-edge companies.

WSU Health Sciences Spokane

GAME CHANGER 48


WE COMMUTE BY CURRENT

Three rivers and seven wilderness areas meet in Missoula, Montana, a small town with big personality and unbeatable outdoor recreation. A place where you’ll find murals downtown and mountains in the distance, and “easy access” is an understatement when it comes to nature. The kind of place where we float rivers by day and sip beer flights by night—and don’t even get us started on the food scene (spoiler, it’s incredible). Put simply, Missoula is a place of experiences, and you’ll just have to experience it for yourself.

CLARK FORK RIVER, DOWNTOWN MISSOULA

Travel Safely. Explore Responsibly. Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1889 for more information.


Photos: WSU Health Sciences Spokane

startup

Science Spinoff

WSU incubator and life-sciences hub Spinout Space, sp³nw, launches in Spokane written by Kevin Max “RIGHT AFTER this call, I will be starting another company with a former student,” Washington State University Professor Glenn Prestwich said as casually as telling a friend he was starting to read a new book. This startup, called Maana Discoveries, targets treatments for middle ear infections and develops medical devices and recently received a $7.5 million grant from the Office of Naval Research. Maana Discoveries also marks the tenth company Prestwich has co-founded. Some past companies include Echelon Biosciences, BioTime, Sentrx Animal Care, GlycoMira Therapeutics, Metallosensors and Deuteria Agrochemicals. Scenes like this will become increasingly common at Washington State University’s new incubator, Spinout Space in Spokane, or sp³nw, a university hub led by Prestwich to launch life sciences companies, primarily from student and faculty work. The concept began more than a year ago, when Prestwich and WSU Health Sciences Vice President and Chancellor Daryll DeWald seized an opportunity. “In this case, there was a building that the university wanted to use for an incubator but didn’t know how to do it,” said Prestwich. “I convinced [DeWald] that a health science-focused incubator may be a good use for it.”

Prestwich, a professor of medical chemistry and accomplished musician, is no stranger to the niche of university tech transfer. At the University of Utah, he created and directed the Entrepreneurial Faculty Scholars program, a vehicle for faculty to commercialize their ideas and research. In the early ’90s, Prestwich helped launch the Long Island High Tech Incubator and sits on the advisory board of the Center for Biotechnology at Stony Brook University in New York. The newly launched Spokane incubator brings together students, faculty and outside expertise in the former Ignite Northwest building on the edge of the WSU campus. Within its walls are the foundational pieces for the next generation of cuttingedge companies. Over the past year and while the program was being built, sp³nw has been involved with starting twelve companies, recruiting two to three existing companies and partnering with thirty mentors across disciplines and sectors and as many affiliates. “I agonized about who to include as an affiliate,” Prestwich said. “I wanted entities that offered a valuable service and cared about their community.” These include executive coaches, people who understand intellectual property and regulatory issues, product designers, prototypers, CFOs and comptrollers. Though the new space in Spokane may be its headquarters, sp³nw is already expanding to other WSU campuses around the state, including Everett, Pullman, Vancouver and Tri-Cities as well as into Idaho, through partnerships with other universities. While Prestwich keeps an allegro tempo in expanding networks and resources for startups, his respite is his 1924 Baldwin piano, an incubator for his original compositions.

ABOVE, AT LEFT Glenn Prestwich is an expert in university tech transfer—how to commercialize university ideas and research. ABOVE Brena Thompson, a Washington State University graduate student in chemistry, performs work in a WSU College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences lab on the health sciences campus in Spokane. WSU’s new Spokane incubator offers foundational resources for the next generation of cutting-edge companies and researchers like Thompson.

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Endless Discoveries.

Plan your trip today! visit-pullman.com 1-800-365-6948 Francisco B. Aguilar


Renderings: Integrus Architecture

what’s going up?

The commercial strip inspired The Hive’s building-as-billboard approach, with the use of neon and color. Garage doors open to a gallery.

No Beeswax The Hive takes the sting out of old-school libraries, as a new collaboration takes flight written by Cathy Carroll GET READY, HONEYS, the sweetest new learning space is opening soon in Spokane. Busy as a bee on a painting? Science project? Burning the midnight oil building a canoe? Or do you just want to read the latest novel getting all the buzz? Then you’ll want to head to The Hive, a truly 21st-century public library on track to open in July. The 13,700-square-foot innovation, a partnership between Spokane Public Library and Spokane Public Schools, is a cross-pollination of virtual learning and teacher-training offices with flexible studio/shop spaces where library-card holders can pursue projects over several days or months. By leveraging shared assets, the library and school district can serve a 42     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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city-wide audience, being available all hours with card key or library card access. The gritty, commercial-strip character of Sprague Avenue inspired the building-as-billboard approach, exploring the idea of sign, symbol and image in architecture and the environment. The existing context, cars traveling 40 mph, shop signs and mixed architecture is acknowledged with the use of color, neon and everyday materials such as concrete blocks and corrugated metal, announcing the building while letting it fit, too. Storefront-style windows bring in light and make connection with the strip. Garage doors open to a gallery where projects will be displayed amid social gatherings—for queens and drones alike.



what i’m working on

Doing Well, Doing Good Saturna targets climate change, contagious disease, social injustice and more through targeted investing written by Kevin Max

SCOTT KLIMO is the chief investment officer and director of research at Saturna Capital, a fund management company based in Bellingham. His experience with sustainable investing, or ESG (environmental, social and governance) began long before it became the new buzzword in the United States. At this critical inflection point for this planet and capital markets, we caught up with Klimo to get an insider’s perspective on the new flow of money that might just save the planet.

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When did ESG investing first come on your radar? At my previous firm, we distributed funds into the Australian market and Australia has long been ahead of the curve in ESG from an investment perspective. At the time, we investigated joining the UNPRI (United Nations Principles for Responsible Investment) and following its guidelines. That was around 2007 and when I first became aware of ESG investing. Saturna, by the way, is a signatory to the UNPRI and has been since 2013. Why has ESG become the top investment theme over the past two years? There are multiple factors. I believe the irrefutable evidence of anthropogenic climate change provided by the record-breaking forest fires in Australia, Brazil and the U.S., along with unprecedented tropical storm activity and the simple fact that every year is warmer than the next, have brought home the importance of mitigating carbon emissions. Water is another important issue. And let’s not forget zoonotic transmission of the coronavirus or the spread of various tropical diseases into previously safe areas. Gender, income and racial inequality and the continued risk of simply being Black in America

Saturna Capital in Bellingham focuses on ESG investing.


what i’m working on

illustrate that socially we have a long way to go. Corporate malfeasance, such as that demonstrated by Wells Fargo with fake accounts or Vale with its burst dam in Brazil have shown that investors ignore governance at their peril. At the same time, the evidence becomes more and more robust that the supposed trade-off between doing well and doing good is a red herring and that adopting an ESG approach may very well enhance returns, rather than detracting. People want to make the world a better place for themselves and for their children, and ESG investing is one way they feel they can make a difference. How do you screen companies for ESG? We have a proprietary quantitative ESG screening tool that we use for stock identification. It utilizes data on roughly 5,000 global companies provided by an external data aggregator. As you are likely aware, data consistency is a major issue. Many companies report differently, incompletely or not at all. There is a well-known “large-cap bias” in ESG scoring, such that large companies have the resources to report on various ESG metrics, thus their scores look better than a smaller cap company that may be a better actor but doesn’t have the ability to report, for example, on scope 3 carbon emissions. As a result, just as we engage in detailed fundamental analysis of our investments, we conduct detailed qualitative reviews

of the ESG characteristics of investment candidates. Another key point is that we do not have an ESG team that sits off in a corner and passes a list of approved companies to the financial analysts. ESG analysis is integrated into the overall analytical process. Financial and ESG analysts are one and the same. Can you give us a couple of examples of portfolio companies that embody the mission? Two of our best performing companies in 2020 were Vestas wind systems and Siemens Gamesa. Both are European manufacturers of wind turbines. As levelized costs for wind and solar power generation have become competitive with fossil fuels, investments in these technologies have increased. With the Biden administration, we see the opportunity for additional support for the industry. Over the next few years, offshore wind power will become a major theme. Another would be Novozymes, a Danish specialty chemicals company. You might ask, chemicals? In an ESG fund? But Novozymes develops enzymes with multiple uses. For example, the way laundry is done in the U.S. is tremendously wasteful. We use gallons of water in top loading washers, half gallon containers of Tide that require a large amount of water themselves, a huge amount of plastic packaging and significant carbon emissions to get the product delivered.

There’s a mindset that the more detergent we pour in, the cleaner our clothes will be. In Europe, laundry is far more efficient with front-loading machines, lower water usage and, to the point, enzyme-enhanced detergents so they can use a pod or a tablet like you might in your dishwasher. Novozymes is targeting that, within a couple of years, the amount of detergent required to do your laundry will be the size of an aspirin. The resource savings would be enormous. Finally, from a social perspective, we own Wolters Kluwer, a Dutch information software and services company that has been a strong performer. Over the years, they have transformed their business from one that delivered primarily paper-based products to one that is almost entirely electronic. But more to the point, it demonstrates the strength of gender diversity. Four of nine senior executives, including the CEO are women. Additionally, four of the nine supervisory board members are women. At some point, will ESG or sustainable investing become simply, investing? One can hope. I once attended a conference where a speaker got up and said he was really depressed to be at this ESG conference and that we’re all talking about it. It shouldn’t be anything requiring discussion or promotion. It should the norm, not a goal. Given the dire situation of the planet, generational attitudes and the clear recent preference of investor dollars, we will eventually get there.

“The evidence becomes more and more robust that the supposed trade-off between doing well and doing good is a red herring and that adopting an ESG approach may very well enhance returns, rather than detracting.” — Scott Klimo, Saturna Capital chief investment officer and director of research

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my workspace

The Old World charms of Leavenworth’s Bavarian-styled village is not just a facade. It extends right down to the apple strudel, made just the way your oma would, with real butter, eggs and fruit from surrounding orchards. Same with the crustytopped pies, enveloping sweet, juicy, seasonal berries and breads, handcrafted with flour milled from Washington-grown grains for a plethora of styles: German brown, bacon, buttermilk, French, olive, potato herb, dill Swiss, walnut cranberry and orange rye tea to name a few.

When Homefires Bakery’s baker quit, front-counter employee Kat Bovee rolled up her sleeves, declared “I can learn anything” and took on the role. Working an 11 p.m. to 9 a.m. shift doesn’t faze her. She somehow finds time to also care for her ailing mother who has dementia.

Kneads and Wants Combining local fruit, grains, devotion—and real butter— is the Homefires Bakery recipe written by Joni Kabana

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my workspace

Photos: Homefires Bakery

Bovee has a degree in Spanish with a minor in Latin, a background that fosters adherence to the complexities of recipes. It is her creative nature, though, that moves her to mix things up, adding flavor twists and creating pastries such as peach pie almondine.

She’s quick to reveal what she loves most about her work at the bakery tucked away inside Dan’s Food Market. “People may not see me, but I know my creation has made someone happy,” she said. “That’s enough to keep me here.” Even peak periods, such as around Thanksgiving, when she’s making 140 pies in two days, doesn’t thwart her enthusiasm: “I love being a part of so many holiday dinners!”

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While regular customers might suspect that her favorite pastry is the popular and decadent almond roll, it is the mixed berry scone that steals her heart.

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game changer

AT RIGHT Scott Meschke, an environmental and occupational health microbiologist at the University of Washington, had a jumpstart on how to track Covid, building on a career researching the detection of viruses in water and food.

Virus Testing Pioneer

UW’s Scott Meschke made groundwater and virus transmission his life’s pursuit written by Kevin Max | illustration by Allison Bye AS THE PANDEMIC raced through populations where virus testing was sparse, if at all, public agencies still had some indication of where new outbreaks might occur. In the absence of testing on a personal basis, sewage became the new crystal ball. The concept behind the testing is fairly simple. Those who are infected with the Covid virus will emit tiny particles of it in their feces. When wastewater is collected from a building’s sewage, the presence of the virus can be divined through a number of tests. Without complications, the results can be known within a day. Scott Meschke, an environmental and occupational health microbiologist at the University of Washington, had a jumpstart on Covid, having spent a career researching the detection of viruses in water and food. At University of North Carolina, where he received his doctoral degree, he worked on this problem through the lens of other pandemics. “I started working on polio as a test organism, Meschke said. “It was a good model and historically defined. … The methods were translatable. We’re using techniques for other viruses and reforming them for Covid.” Meschke loved chemistry as a high school student in Kansas. At the University of Kansas, he ended up focusing on biology 48

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and environmental courses. He went on to earn a law degree from Kansas, thinking he could change the world for the better as an environmental attorney. He realized that this profession was more about billable hours than saving the planet and paused for a moment. Then he read an article about viruses and groundwater and made that his life’s pursuit. Today, more than sixty-five colleges across the country are using wastewater detection to monitor and minimize Covid outbreaks on their campuses, according to research by National Public Radio. This test can help identify early cases of the virus and lead to identification and isolation of the infected students to head off a more massive contagion. The University of Arizona, for example, was able to avert a crisis when wastewater test results at one of its dorms came back positive. Subsequent individual testing of the 311 students found that two were asymptomatic carriers of the virus. At the same time, Meschke points to the limitation of wastewater testing. “We get the most utility when we look at specific dorms or facilities that have their own wastewater systems,” he said. The results are most relevant when the people using the facilities being tested are the only ones using the toilets. As soon as one unknown, non-resident uses a toilet in a facility being tested, the results are less reliable. “I’m proud of the work we’ve done with polio and typhoid and even with SARS-COVID-2,” said Meschke. “We’re injecting a certain amount of skepticism to help refine the process.”


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Make the Most of Your Workcation. Get the “331 Things to Do” Checklist @ https://bit.ly/workcations

Get the ins and outs of Port Angeles and the surrounding Olympic National Park. Port Angeles is the spot to start–and stay–during your Olympic Peninsula journey. There’s more to explore @ VisitPortAngeles.com


ZOOM TOWNS

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WASHINGTON’S BEST PLACES TO LIVE WHEN YOU CAN WORK REMOTELY FROM ANYWHERE written by Misha Tompkins

THE PANDEMIC hastened a work lifestyle trend that was well underway throughout the country—working productively and remotely. Whether working for tech startups in the Bay Area from a cabin in the Cascades or freelance writing for New York-based publications while overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a number of trends have fueled the lifestyle dreams of those whose jobs are not place based—the rollout of high-speed internet to otherwise rural areas, the surge in digital transformation, a critical mass in workflow and communication apps, the rise in home prices in cities, a generation that clamors for experiences over things and finally the advent of the pandemic. We see a Pacific Northwest that is less dependent on offices and more invested in distributed human capital, where people are ditching studio apartments for rural redoubts. We see a generation of workers less restrained by global headquarters and real-time face time than global wandering and Zoom calls. We see the emergence of Zoom towns across Washington for those who looked at all of these trends and made plans to live a fuller life in their chosen Zoom town. Washington’s population grew by 93,200 per year over the past decade, up from 83,000 in the prior decade. We wanted to know where people were moving and what was next. We worked with Washington State population data and Zillow research to divine the areas and cities that have drawn more people over the past decade and over the past year. We sifted Zillow data to find where the next Zoom towns would be and narrowed our list to the top five in the state. Port Angeles is a sought-after Zoom town, in part because of its locale, on the northern coast of the Olympic Peninsula and on the edge of Olympic National Park. (photo: Adam McKibben/Visit Port Angeles)

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PORT ANGELES Zillow provided data to us that Port Angeles’ downtown is classic revealed their top page views for PNW. Its main commercial sector home listings in Washington metro is composed of the couplet of East areas. Port Angeles led the pack 1st Avenue and East Front Street, with a 37.2 percent jump for the just a block from the harbor along twelve months from November the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Duck into 2019 to November 2020 over the the Great Northern Coffee Bar for prior period. a Bull of the Woods Cuban-style Why are so many people triple Americano and a Population: interested in Port Angeles locally sourced breakfast 19,710 right now? It embodies the sandwich. Work from The Ten-year growth: Coffee Box with brews and balance between getaway 3.53 percent and connection to the views. The region’s bounty Zillow Median world. Seattle is two and a is on the menu at KokoHome Price: half hours by car. Victoria, pelli Grill, local seafood $305,646 Canada, is an hour-andrefashioned as Southwest a-half by ferry, and forest cuisine. Popular newcomtherapy in the Olympic National er Grayson’s has something that few Forest is just minutes away. others do, a short rib grilled cheese Port Angeles is a breath of fresh sandwich on Texas toast. The Next air on the northern coast of the Door Gastropub rolls open to East Olympic Peninsula and on the 1st Avenue while inside it’s all about edge of Olympic National Park. albacore tataki sliders and citrus Backpacking, paddling, lakes, rivcrab salads, local king salmon and ers and trails are de rigueur for vis- local beers. itors and locals in this spectacular Perhaps some of the online interpart of the Evergreen State. Dense est in Port Angeles residence listings forests and cascading waterfalls will be absorbed by a new five-story are beautiful and common along $22 million condominium building Hurricane Ridge, 17 miles south of to break ground this spring just a Port Angeles. Nearby glacial lakes block down from where construcsuch as Crescent and Suthertion of the Lower Elwha Klallam land are pristine for kayaking or Tribe’s four-star waterfront hotel is standup paddling. Just 12 miles set to begin this spring. Port Angeles southwest lies one of the peninarts will blossom with the addition sula’s newest bragging rights—the of Field Hall, a 500-seat multipurOlympic Adventure Trail, a 25pose auditorium with a 300-seat mile dirt ribbon for hikers, runners state-of-the-art conference facility and mountain bikers. that will be completed in 2022.

FROM PORT ANGELES, FOREST THERAPY IN THE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST IS JUST MINUTES AWAY.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Port Angeles is poised to have a new, five-story, $22 million condominium building and a fourstar waterfront hotel. Standup paddling on Lake Crescent. Viewing the scenery along Hurricane Ridge. Hiking in Olympic National Park. (photos, clockwise from top: Nate Wyeth/Visit Port Angeles, Adam McKibben/Visit Port Angeles, M. Krueger Photography/Visit Port Angeles, Adam McKibben/Visit Port Angeles)

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VANCOUVER A lot has been happening in Vancouver to transform it from a sleepy Portland neighbor to a world-class Zoom town. Vancouver is the county seat of Clark County, which witnessed the second-highest influx of newcomers in Washington over the past decade. The county grew 17.4 percent, or by 73,837 people between April 2019 and April 2020. Population: One project that put Vancouver 189,700 on the map with remote and mobile Ten-year growth: workers was a $1.5 billion trans17.2 percent formation that became a reality. Zillow Median In 2018, this massive undertaking Home Price: added a riverside mixed-use neigh$389,401 borhood with 3,300 apartments and condos, retail shops and restaurants, breweries, wine tasting rooms, a 7.3-acre park and the cantilevered Grant Street Pier jutting into and overlooking the Columbia River with Portland on its southern bank. Waterfront Park also ties in with the 5-mile Columbia River Renaissance Trail for paved walking and biking with views of Mt. Hood in the distance. Burnt Bridge Creek Trail is another option for locals. The 15mile out-and-back paved surface follows Burnt Creek from Vancouver Lake southeast to its turnaround at NE Burton Road. Vancouverites don’t have to go too far to enjoy the benefits of forest therapy either. To the east is Gifford Pinchot National Forest, where a lifetime’s worth of trails wind along rivers and waterfalls. To the south is Mt. Hood and skiing and snowshoeing. To the north is Mt. St. Helens, for hiking to high alpine meadows. To the northwest is Vancouver Lake Regional Park for protected kayaking and standup paddling. Downtown Vancouver is having a renaissance of its own, with new apartment buildings that will increase downtown residential numbers by as much as tenfold, according to some estimates. Restaurateurs are ahead of the curve, launching independent restaurants such as Amaro’s Table, Pacific House and the iconic Rally Pizza, to name a few. A downtown supermarket could be in the works, too, after density reaches critical mass. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Snowshoeing in Mount Hood National Forest, playing at the waterfront, pausing by the Columbia River Renaissance Trail and hiking near Mount St. Helens are classic Vancouver area experiences. (photos, second from top: courtesy of the City of Vancouver, Washington; bottom right: courtesy of the City of Vancouver, Washington)

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Redmond Town Center’s 2-acre plaza makes for a great outdoor workspace in summer and fall. Live music in Marymoor Park and cycling through the 640-acre complex. (photos: Experience Redmond)

REDMOND Redmond is ideally situated for Argentinian empanadas at Rocky’s those who want to cut cords and hole-in-the-wall Tropea with Seattle but remain nearby Ristorante Italiano’s authentic for cultural and urban outings. trattoria-style fare, these only On the northern shore of comely scratch the surface of Redmond’s Lake Sammamish and 15 miles international foodie scene. Donorthwest of Seattle, Redmond is mestic foods are well represented the home of Microsoft through Woodblock, Population: and calls itself the Bicycle eclectic upscale comfort 69,900 Capital of the Pacific food; Tipsy Cow Burger Ten-year growth: Northwest. It also comes Bar for gourmet burgers 29.1 percent in at third-fastest in popuand Eastside Beerworks Zillow Median lation growth from April with seventy-two taps Home Price: 2019 to April 2020, trailand daily smoked meats. $955,065 ing Seattle and Vancouver. Downtown Redmond One of it’s crowning resources centers on Redmond Town Center, is Marymoor Park, a 640-acre an outdoor shopping campus with complex of trails, sports fields, restaurants and boutique shops a drive-in movie theater, conand a 2-acre plaza that makes for cert venue, cycling velodrome, a a great outdoor workspace in the 300-acre conservation area that is summer and fall. home to 120 species of birds and a Recreation is right out the door. cricket field (giving Redmond the The Sammamish River Trail is a distinction of the densest number 10-mile multi-recreational paved of cricket fields in the state includpath that extends from Marymoor ing one on Microsoft’s campus Park north to Bothell’s Blythe Park, three miles away). where it joins the 27-mile BurkeRedmond isn’t all bats and Gilman Trail into Seattle. The wickets, though, it’s home to a Sammamish River Trail passes near burgeoning cuisine culture, led Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia by ethnic foods. From Koreanand Silver Lake wineries, setting up Japanese hot pots at Shaburina, an old-school Tour de France for to Indian fusion at The Guilt Trip, the properly disposed.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Ellensburg’s pro rodeo opens Labor Day, right across from the Central Washington University campus. The Downtown Ellensburg Historic District includes the Davidson Building, completed when the state was founded in 1889. The Red Pickle’s street tacos and kung pao brussels sprouts are among the fun and diverse offerings at local eateries. (photos, clockwise from top left: Molly Morrow, Hotel Windrow, The Red Pickle)

ELLENSBURG often wander out to the Cascades On the eastern shoulder of the to blow off steam. It also counts Cascades, Ellensburg is a sleeper Christine Day, the former Lululemountain town with enough trails mon CEO, among its alumni. and outdoor pursuits for those Another cultural icon who combine work and Population: in town is the Ellensburg outdoor play. Ellensburg’s 20,640 historic downtown feeds Rodeo, bucking 100 years Ten-year growth: the soul. With more than old and a formative cul13.6 percent tural experience for this thirty historic buildings, Zillow Median town. With few excepand some that date back Home Price: tions, the pro rodeo opens to the founding of the $345,044 state in 1889, Ellensburg Labor Day and plays can nourish the cultural side of the out right in town across from the CWU campus. brain, too. Central Washington University is When it comes to cycling, the academic anchor to Ellensburg. earning the Silver Level from the CWU’s residential campus is home League of American Bicyclists for bike friendly towns, Ellensburg is a to more than 12,000 students who

great place to change your background from day to day. Whether you’re gravel biking the 250-mile Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail, hitting 15 miles of Manastash Ridge on your mountain bike or riding or the 61-mile Cle Elum roadie loop that puts you in the middle of some of Kittitas Valley’s most beautiful scenery, this town has many two-wheeled settings. Foodie options include The Red Pickle’s street tacos and kung pao brussels sprouts, The Yellow Church’s killer burgers and Ellensburg Brewing’s Das Wurst Sliders on pretzel buns (no need for ketchup).

ON THE EASTERN SHOULDER OF THE CASCADES, ELLENSBURG IS A SLEEPER MOUNTAIN TOWN WITH ENOUGH TRAILS AND OUTDOOR PURSUITS FOR THOSE WHO COMBINE WORK AND OUTDOOR PLAY.

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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM Cyclists ride past wind turbines south of Kennewick. Standup paddleboarding in the Tri-Cities twilight and wine tasting nearby are favorite local pursuits. (photos, clockwise from bottom: Jackie Johnston/ Visit Tri-Cities, Visit Tri-Cities, Visit Tri-Cities)

Richland Population: 58,550

TRI-CITIES Led by West Richland, Benton County recorded the third-fastest growing population (17.4 percent) from April 2010 to April 2020, according to the state Office of Financial Management, Forecasting and Research Division. While the pandemic hastened the trend of migration to more rural living, the truth is, it had begun before Covid. Indeed Kennewick, Richland and West Richland were all in the top ten cities of Washington’s strongest home sales price growth from 2019 to 2020, according to Zillow data. For many people coming from bigger cities with bigger salaries, these prices are not yet out of reach. Many people think of Tri-Cities as the home of the historically intriguing Hanford B Reactor, foundational to the Manhattan Project and the creation of the first nuclear bomb during World War II. This is an amazing field trip to take but probably not the attraction for most remote workers. With the influx of people who can

Ten-year growth: 21.8 percent

work remotely and bring their jobs with them, projects such as the new Park Place luxury apartments that overlook the Columbia River and the distant Blue Mountains are in high demand. To its west and southwest, TriCities can add wine country to its amenities with such notable growing areas as the Yakima Valley, Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills. Rich post-alluvial soil, and hot days and cool nights make the area good for Bordeaux and Rhonestyle wines and for lifestyle, too. Recreation tends toward trails and rivers. The 23-mile paved Sacagawea Heritage Trail that follows the banks of the Columbia is a great outdoor resource for hiking, running and biking. The trail passes through other city parks and attractions along the way, connecting the Tri-Cities in a healthy recreational loop. Kayaking, standup paddling and SUP yoga are all aqueous pursuits along this meandering stretch of the Columbia River.

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Zillow Median Home Price: $348,253

West Richland Population: 15,710 Ten-year growth: 33 percent Zillow Median Home Price: $373,831

Kennewick Population: 84,960 Ten-year growth: 14.9 percent Zillow Median Home Price: $316,632

Pasco Population: 77,100 Ten-year growth: 29 percent Zillow Median Home Price: $299,997

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DIY FOR

DESIGN

WORK

PLAY

at Home

Home is where your mood is. Elevate yours with inspiring ideas and tips from the amateurs and experts who made it happen. written by Melissa Dalton

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Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli/AZFoto

With virtually everyone spending more time at home in the last year, it’s become clear that our surroundings influence how we feel, and what we can do while we’re there. Dreaming of what you can change to feel happier, healthier, more productive and relaxed right at your own address? Don’t know where to begin? Know that creative acts, big or small, bring rewards. Whether it’s building a sauna for an invigorating, postworkday sweat, an office that promotes focus and calm, a she-shed studio for meditating, painting or finding that much-needed, on-premises escape, read on. The homeowners who achieved just that and the experts who made it all come together painlessly tell you how. Prepare to get inspired.

A prefabricated Modern Shed was an easy way to add to a Gig Harbor waterfront home.

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“We just gave ourselves this extra bit of challenge as a means to explore something new.” — Juliette Dubroca, Seattle resident

Build a Sauna for $6,000 Juliette Dubroca knew that her husband, Isaac Backus, comes from a big family of sauna-lovers, so when the couple bought a house in Seattle’s Central District neighborhood three years ago, building a sauna was at the top of their to-do list. They commenced the yearlong project in 2019, designing and building it over the weekends. She’s an architect and lead designer at Central Collective in Seattle and he’s a data scientist comfortable with construction. First up was deciding where to place the sweat-inducing structure. Their lot is small, about 2,000 square feet, and city building codes presented restrictions: the outbuilding had to be less than 120 square feet to avoid the need for a permit; it couldn’t be more than 8 feet tall or have a permanent foundation, and it had to sit back 5 feet from the property line. Dubroca slid it in beside an exterior door and adjacent to a large patio for easy indoor-outdoor access and with a spot for cooling off outside in warmer months. For supplies, the couple scoured Second Use, a favorite local source for salvaged building materials. Their finds shaped the 90-squarefoot sauna’s design, from the twelve, colored-resin pieces that they fashioned into a stained-glass window, to two 30-foot, old-growth cedar beams, which they brought home in a U-Haul. The pair decided to set the beams at an X for the roof framework, which created some complexity to the build, with Backus cutting each rafter at a precise angle to fit. “We just gave ourselves this extra bit of challenge as a means to explore something new,” said Dubroca. They divided the sauna into two rooms. The hot room must be able to sustain a temperature of 200 degrees, so it’s wrapped in cedar and old, tin-ceiling tile protects the walls from the stove. The cold room is lined with refurbished wood pulled from a Portland school and sports a metal trough for dunking. A pulley mechanism opens and closes the door between the rooms, so no one has to grab a heated door knob between passes. The couple finished the project last year, and hopes to spread the joy it brings. “I wish that Covid allowed us to share that experience with more people, so that it could be more of a community sauna for the neighborhood, or the street, rather than just a few select people from our Covid bubble,” said Dubroca. “But it’s really a beautiful, meditative, spiritual experience to be in there.” A couple used weekends to design and build this 90-square-foot sauna using salvaged materials. It took a year to complete it at their home in Seattle’s Central District. It has a stained-glass window, which they fashioned from colored-resin pieces, and two 30-foot, old-growth cedar beams. (photos: Juliette Dubroca and Isaac Backus)

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From Home Office to Haute Office It may seem as if any advice about the design of a home office would emphasize productivity above all, but not so for Cassandra LaValle. LaValle, the Seattle-based creative behind the popular blog and lifestyle company, coco + kelley, focuses on well-being first and foremost. That begins with the desk chair. “Comfort is king,” said LaValle. So, while we’ve all seen lovely photos of designer chairs parked at the computer, that doesn’t work for real life, nor does the chair stolen from the dining room, as the latter is designed for two-hour dinners, not eight-hour days in front of a laptop. “Take care of your back,” said LaValle, and invest in an ergonomic desk chair that fits your body. LaValle likes the looks, function and price-point of Ikea’s options. If the dining chair is all that’s available, try a meditation pillow to soften the seat. While Zoom backgrounds have become paramount, LaValle suggests making sure your view is a good one, too. Place a desk by the window for natural lighting, or add a sculptural desk lamp for a

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pretty glow. Matching accessories and stationery—the brand Poppin is a favorite—can introduce order even when the day’s agenda goes awry. Bring in artwork and colors that energize. In 2019, LaValle co-designed the work spaces at Seattle’s Jackson St. Studio with just such an eye towards balance. The studio is a coworking space for eight business women, in fields including photography, interior design, coaching and public relations. The space needed to be flexible, for hosting a photo shoot or client meeting. Work stations employ clean-lined, marble-topped desks from Room & Board, while nearby hangout spots are accessorized with soft goods to make it feel like more than just an office. A stylish cabinet hides office supplies and local art adorns the walls. “Some people like a lot of color to bring energy to a room, and that helps them work throughout the day. Some people prefer a quiet palette to help focus,” said LaValle. “Try to understand what your responses are to color and what you need.”

The co-working space at Seattle’s Jackson St. Studio emphasizes comfort, and employs clean-lined, marble-topped desks and hangout spots with soft goods to make it feel like more than just an office. A stylish cabinet hides office supplies and local art adorns the walls. (photos: Ellie Lillstrom Photography)

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Create a Vintage-Inspired She-shed When Erin Tole, a portrait photographer based in Vancouver, debuted her “greenhouse/she-shed” to more than 38,000 followers on her Instagram account @vineandvintage, the pictures drew hundreds of ecstatic comments. People declared their intent to immediately start collecting old windows and tagged requests to partners to start building one of their own. Tole designed hers and hired a contractor to build it, but the process was fairly simple. She had recently installed a patio at the front of her corner lot. “But it was a really big patio,” said Tole, and too big for just a lonely table and chairs. “It needed something.” The answer was a greenhouse/she-shed. Tole started with a collection of salvaged windows, gathered from Aurora Mills Architectural Salvage in Aurora, Oregon, Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist and “random places,” said Tole. The patio provided a solid foundation, with a base of several layers of

gravel and a vapor barrier, which prevents moisture from being absorbed into the structure. The contractor sunk posts at the corners, framing the salvaged windows with two-by-fours and attaching them with screws. “We’d hold up the windows and try and fit it together as best we could,” said Tole. “You can fudge all of the weird places where it doesn’t quite fit, by either having glass cut to fit, or using wood shims.” They made sure to pitch the roof so water runs off, and covered it with a sheet of polycarbonate, which insulates and lets in sunlight. These days, Tole’s greenhouse is an outdoor spot to style with vintage finds, or re-pot her extensive plant collection, both of which define the evolving interior décor of her 1915 house, as chronicled on her popular Instagram account. “The funny thing is, I enjoy the projects more than the end result,” said Tole. “I’m not thinking about sitting in the greenhouse. I just want to build it.”

This greenhouse/she-shed project began with salvaged windows from an architectural supply store, online marketplaces and “random places,” said Erin Tole of Vancouver. A patio served as the foundation, and now she uses the spot to style vintage finds or re-pot plants. (photo: Shauna Intelisano)

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DIY Deficient? Try Prefab Modern Shed, a company that designs and manufactures prefabricated sheds, got started in a Seattle backyard, making it a fitting option if thinking about creating your own new space. Modern Sheds come in three sizes to suit a range of activities. Set up a weight bench and fitness equipment for a private gym, move in a desk or easel for a quiet home office or studio, or line the interior with cedar to fashion a sauna. The company manufactures the sheds in their Sedro-Woolley facility and delivers them in panels for straightforward assembly. For the DIYsavvy, installing the small size shed is easy because it typically doesn’t require a building permit or more complicated plans. “You don’t have to be a general contractor, but you need a working knowledge of construction,” suggested Tim Vack, General Manager for Modern Shed. In 2018, Rich and Kerrie Clos bought an extra-large shed, just shy of 200-square-feet, for their waterfront Gig Harbor property. Their lot is long and deep, and at first, they wanted to tear down the home and rebuild closer to the water. But when construction costs came in too high, Rich Googled “modern shed” and stumbled on the Washington company. “I was looking for something that would be attractive and really durable,” said Rich, noting the quality of materials, such as cement board lap siding, metal roof and knotty cedar at the ceiling. The couple collaborated with a Modern Shed in-house designer to get the window and door placement just right and to add a 4-foot roof extension and custom deck. Upon delivery, the contractor they hired had it up in a few days. The couple finished the interior, installing insulation, drywall, vinyl flooring, painting and hanging shelves. Even without adding a bathroom or kitchen, which adds substantial cost, the Clos’s simple shed has proved extremely useful, whether as a guest room in a pinch, a place to hang out with friends by the water or a spot of solitude. “It’s fantastic to have a separate space to call your own,” said Vack.

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This prefabricated unit from Modern Shed was the solution for a couple who wanted their Gig Harbor waterfront home to be closer to the shore, but construction costs were too high. They added a custom deck and a contractor put it up in a few days. (photos: Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli/AZFoto)

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GREAT PLACES FOR CYCLING IN EASTERN WASHINGTON written and photographed by Aaron Theisen WESTERN WASHINGTON is rightfully regarded as a cycling magnet, its lush, loamy forests and cedar-shaded pavement the first things that come to mind when riders picture the Pacific Northwest. But the dry side of the state is no cycling slouch, either. Road cyclists revere the quiet, winding byways that connect pastoral farming communities. Mountain bikers have cut an impressive collection of trails among the pine forests and grassy hillocks in Spokane and its surroundings. Perhaps the biggest selling point to rain-weary west-siders: the arid climate, combined with the volcanic, fast-draining soil, which makes Eastern Washington a top wheat producer, means equally dry, rideable road and trails nearly year-round. So, while it may come wrapped in different trappings, Eastern Washington is every bit the quintessential cycling destination.

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Crisscrossing golden fields on hundreds of miles of two-lane blacktop in the Palouse.

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1 BEACON HILL: Ten minutes from downtown Spokane, Beacon Hill is the epicenter of Eastern Washington’s fat-tire riding community. Although the sandy singletrack strata documents twenty-something years of trail-building trends, it’s the granite slabs that have earned Beacon a reputation throughout the region—from otter slides to walls where you’ll work to avoid buzzing your fanny pack on your back tire. 2 KETTLE CREST: In the far northeast corner of Washington, the Kettle Range stands as a lonely outpost separating the Okanagan Highlands from the Upper Columbia River Valley. Connecting it all is the Kettle Crest Trail, 45 miles of rocky tread, expansive wildflower meadows and endless views. It’s some of the state’s only—and best—bike-accessible alpine and subalpine riding.

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4 3 SALTESE UPLANDS: Saltese Uplands Conservation Area, in Spokane Valley, protects an island of grasses and wildflowers amid one of the state’s fastest-growing communities. Although small, the trail system here provides just enough mellow singletrack for casual evening laps. Adding to the allure of after-work rides: Saltese seems to guarantee spectacular sunsets. 4 MOUNT SPOKANE: The largest of Washington’s state parks, Mount Spokane sprawls across 13,000 acres and more than 3,000 feet of vertical, from subalpine meadows at the top to dense, mossy cedar forest at the bottom. Mountain bikers use the paved road to the summit to shuttle epic descents on twisty, root-strewn singletrack; road cyclists seeking a challenge grind their way from bottom to top. 5 THE PALOUSE: Hundreds of miles of two-lane blacktop traverse the wind-sculpted fields of legumes and wheat of Washington’s breadbasket, and a bike saddle is the best perch from which to experience the slower pace of life here. (Just be warned: that ever-present wind seems to blow in your face both ways.)

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78

pg. 78 Dip your toes into living on the edge in Westport.

Joni Kabana

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84


Find Your Flow From the North Cascades, Follow the Skagit River Through the Skagit Valley to the Salish Sea

washington

Marblemount • Concrete • Sedro-Woolley Burlington • Mount Vernon Bow-Edison • La Conner • Anacortes • Guemes Island visitskagitvalley.com @SkagitValley @VisitSkagit

SkagitValley_FindYourFlow_Ad_final.indd 1

1/19/21 3:40 PM


Travel Spotlight

Walkable Wine Tasting on Bainbridge Island Award-winning, intriguing wines, a short stroll from the ferry

LET’S FACE IT, a lot of wine tasting has occurred over the past twelve months, but from our couches, eyes glued to Netflix. Expand your view and your wine experience via a quick ferry ride to Bainbridge Island and Washington’s only grape growing region west of the Cascades, the Puget Sound AVA. First, the thirty-five-minute ferry ride from Seattle’s Colman Dock, is one big exhale from stress: briny sea air and a panorama of the region’s most celebrated icons: the Space Needle, two volcanoes, Puget Sound, and perhaps some orcas, eagles and seals. Bainbridge Island is the size of Manhattan but with forested hills, winding roads, gardens, parks, unspoiled public beaches, and seven award-winning wineries. Some source grapes from the Eastern Washington and two grow their own grapes. The temperate maritime climate of the Puget Sound produces small harvests of rare, elegant varietals found in southern Germany, Hungary, Austria and northern France. You won’t find big, fussy wineries here. Each focuses on crafting an experience that is intimate, accessible, friendly and fun. Ask for the owner, who is most likely the winemaker and will give you a personal tour of the winery while describing what it’s like to handcraft each vintage. The wineries are all within 10 miles of each other, with welcoming outdoor seating, fireplaces and heaters. Step off the ferry and in five minutes you’re sipping a glass of pinot overlooking Eagle Harbor among cafes, restaurants and museums. Pick a bottle at a winery, take out lunch from the historic T and C Market or the Hitchcock Deli and Market, and savor it at Fay Bainbridge Park or Waterfront Park. Don’t forget to bring a bottle home. Your next Netflix wine tasting will be oh so much better.

Every sip of wine is that much better following a short, scenic jaunt by ferry, leaving stress behind.

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Jefte Sanchez/Winery Alliance of Bainbridge Island

written by Shirley A. Hancock


L A C O N N E R lo W A

S

H

I

N G

T O N

www.lovelaconner.com

VISIT

Photo: Pete Saloutos

Just a 35-minute ferry ride from Seattle | VisitBainbridgeIsland.org


adventure

Selfie Spectacle

Head to the uber photo-worthy Skagit Valley, awash in tulips, with a plan written by Cathy Carroll WHEN WE THINK of adventure, our first thought usually goes to our muscles. Are we fit enough to hike that mountain, bike that distance, swim that lake? What we see along the way, however, may be the most memorable part of the journey. If there ever was an adventure for the eyes, it’s April in Skagit Valley. Millions of tulips, in pupil-popping red, yellow, white, pink, lavender—heck, a whole Crayola box of hues—spring forth, with a festival that coaxes people to blossom right along with them. Considering that last year’s Skagit Valley Tulip Festival was canceled just as pandemic lockdowns withered everyone’s plans, there’s a pent-up demand for taking in miles of bright, uplifting flower fields. This month-long event in its thirty-eighth year draws hundreds of thousands to the fields 60 miles north of Seattle between La Conner and Mount Vernon, with events cropping up throughout the area. You can take it in by driving through the area, however the experience truly unfolds at the two major tulip farms, RoozenGaarde/Washington Bulb Co. and Tulip Town. Each rotates hundreds of acres of bulb plantings and redesigns their show gardens every year, so the spectacle changes, drawing people back. This is where you can park and commence with the primary activity—taking some pretty amazing selfies. Considering the throngs of tulip-goers, not to mention the Instagram-able aspect and festival photography contests, some professional tips are in order. One thing is paramount: timing. Valley-based photographer Andy Porter of Sedro-Woolley, who has plied his craft in seventy countries, suggests heading out

Every year, show gardens are redesigned with hundreds of acres of new plantings at the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival.

for sunrise, when the light is lovely and few people are around. Terry Divyak, owner of Shutter Tours in Seattle, said he still beats the crowds by arriving when the farms open at 9 a.m. Once you’re in, Divyak, an award-winning photographer, recommends seeking views that others overlook.

5 PRO PHOTO TIPS FOR TIPTOEING THROUGH THE TULIPS Hundreds of thousands of spring selfie-seekers will head to the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival throughout April. Here’s how to make your photos pop. Photos, from left: Andy Porter, Shutter Tours, Shutter Tours, Andy Porter, Andy Porter

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TIME YOUR VISIT

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX

Plan to arrive early or stay late to avoid the crowds.

Search for views that others might overlook, such as unusual settings or framing.


Shutter Tours

adventure

“One of the challenges with taking photos at the Tulip Festival is the crowds can be pretty big, and though it’s great to get photos of the fields with their expansive colors, a couple ideas I like best are at RoozenGaarde,” said Divyak. “They have an old tree they plant tulips in. I like to direct people to look for these tulips as it

really forces them to see what is around them, and they often find other unique settings by paying more attention.” For instance, he’ll frequently spot workers in the fields picking tulips and placing them in wooden boxes. He likes composing an image around the people at MORE ONLINE work as well as the boxes, which make a natural Find tickets and upto-date information frame for the flowers. at www.tulipfestival. Secondly, don’t forget your phone’s portrait org, or check out RoozenGaarde/ mode. “I love to use this mode to isolate the Bulb Co.’s tulips from the background,” said Divyak. The Washington bloom map at www. trick is that you need to put your finger on the tulips.com/bloommap screen on the item you want in focus.” This is particularly helpful in filtering out people in the background. Panorama mode is essential for capturing the expansiveness of the fields. “These look great on the walls at home,” he said. “One mistake people tend to make is not cropping after taking the photo and getting lots of people or dirt or mud in the image.” When it comes to selfies, Divyak endorses the technique of shooting from above at an angle and getting more of the colors in the background, not crowds. Look for an area with several varieties of tulips rather than fields of only a few colors. Consider what you wear, too. “Two colors that work really well for any photo are yellow or red, especially for selfies, which helps draw attention to the person in the photo,” he said. “These colors will also liven up a drab background when the skies are gray and overcast. Of course, a red jacket will blend in pretty well with red tulips, so a yellow jacket or shirt works well against this backdrop.” Wear shoes or boots with good traction, too. “If it rained the night before, the clay-like mud is extremely slippery,” Divyak said. Of course, bring rain gear. Finally, keep an eye on the time. Divyak leaves no later than 11:15 a.m. and heads with his guests to La Conner for lunch, arriving at 11:30 a.m. After noon, you can expect up to a forty-fiveminute wait until about 3 p.m. Better yet, stay for a weekday sunset, another prime photo opportunity, said Porter.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT MODE

STEP UP YOUR SELFIES

DRESS THE PART

When shooting with your phone, camera mode is key. Try portrait mode for sharp focus in the foreground, or panorama mode for capturing the expansiveness of fields.

Keep an eye on your camera angle and background colors—and avoid the crowds—for winning tulip selfies.

Consider wearing a bright color such as red or yellow for an eyecatching pop of color that blends well with a tulip-filled background. Wear shoes or boots with good traction and bring rain gear.

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Photos: Icicle Village Resort

lodging

ACCOMODATIONS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Access alpine hikes from this base, a short walk from Leavenworth’s Bavarian-style village. Icicle Village Resort’s JJ Hills Fresh Grill serves fare influenced by the area’s Bavarian theme, such as fondue. Get cozy by the fireplace or bring the family to a spacious, tasteful condo. The Old World milieu may prompt yodeling.

Lodging

Icicle Village Resort written by Cara Strickland THE CHARM OF Leavenworth’s Bavarian-style village extends to this resort, just a short walk away. With plenty of mountain views and access to alpine hikes, it’s an idyllic base for connecting as a family, relaxing, exploring the outdoors or a combination of it all. This laid-back hub in the Cascade foothills aptly serves as a romantic getaway as well as a place for family fun. 505 HIGHWAY 2 LEAVENWORTH www.iciclevillage.com

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Cuddle up by a fireplace in a cozy double-queen, or bring the family to a spacious, tastefully appointed condo with up to three bedrooms. Some guest rooms are canine friendly— make that extra-friendly—by including a treat and a new toy at check-in.

AMENITIES After a day of playing outside, keep it low-key and catch up on a good film from the movie library at the front desk. The spa’s licensed massage therapists and estheticians offer wellnessenhancing and environmentally friendly treatments inspired by the surrounding natural beauty. Take a deep breath and let out an “ahh,” as you give yourself over to the Mount Stuart mud wrap, with an invigorating, mint foot-soak, exfoliation and moor-mud wraps, which stimulates circulation with more than 1,000 plant extracts and trace elements. Or, surrender to the Snow Lakes sugar scrub involving an organic milk foot-soak, exfoliation with invigorating signature scrubs and a soothing foot massage.

DINING Breakfast is included. With the buffet on hiatus, pick up baked goods, hot entrees, yogurt and fruit to fortify you for the day. The resort’s JJ Hills Fresh Grill serves fare influenced by the area’s Bavarian theme. Start off with fondue of Gruyère and Emmentaler, white wine, cream and kirsch and follow it with wienerschnitzel and German fried potatoes or spaetzle and braised sweet and sour red cabbage.


GRANT COUNTY WA S H I N G T O N Just Natural Ingredients

This is where all the good stuff happens! Fishing • Hunting • Camping • Hiking • RVing • Wine Tasting • Watchable Wildlife

For more information about accommodations:

Grant County Tourism Commission l P.O. Box 37, Ephrata, WA 98823 l tourgrantcounty.com l 800.992.6234


trip planner

Wet, Wise and Worthy Let life on the edge in Westport draw you in and shift your perspective written and photographed by Joni Kabana WHEN I FIRST rolled into the coastal town of Westport, on Grays Harbor, I could not make out the commotion that was happening on the break wall. People were lined atop the barrier’s black boulders, clapping and cheering, steadying themselves against high winds. Seeing this much excitement from a crowd of people during such cold, blustery weather startled me. Little did I know what I was in for over the next two days. I approached the break wall and could see surfers, many of them, braving the 40 degree water. Waves were crashing like I had never seen before, each one hurling its enormous power toward the rocks. My first thought was, who are these people? What compels them to withstand bonechilling weather and place themselves in such danger? I saw a surfer in his car, gobbling slices of pizza as he warmed himself by the heater. Benjamin Beck, 29, grew up surfing in Hawaii but comes here to mix with “the diehards,” surfers who like their sea waves frigid and terrifying. Why surf the reliable big waves in Hawaii when you can surf icy “king tides,” the highest tides of the year, when the Earth, moon, and sun are aligned just so? I could now see why people challenged their own safety up on the break wall to watch these surfers’ defiant athleticism. Westport inhabitants like to think of themselves as living on the edge, literally and figuratively. As I made my way to restaurants, museums, businesses and nature sites, it became increasingly clear that this town is full of entrepreneurs of the most spirited kind. Most have grown up here, so heritage runs deep. So does a profound love for their town. Westport’s Maritime Museum director and local historian John Shaw described why this town has been made up of tough, hardy, resilient people since its beginning. Having no road to reach Westport until 1914, the town was formed by fishermen, Coast Guard life-savers and high-surf lovers drawn to “the San Andreas Fault of the Pacific Northwest.” When one has to coexist with king tides and all that comes from living that close to a raging sea, one becomes mighty. Al “You-Should-Always-Be-Wet” Perlee, 70, and born in Los Angeles, is a “newcomer” having only been here fifty years. He built a tarpaper shack for a home with no water or electricity to escape the California high rents. After hearing from a friend that “there are waves up here!” he’s considered to be the first surfer to set up a household in the traditional fishing village. 78     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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trip planner

King tide waves delight (and terrify) spectators at the Westport Viewing Tower.

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trip planner

Al Perlee, who began surfing when he was 9 years old, came to Westport in his 20s and lived out of an old tar and tin roof shack so he could surf the big waves.

He owns The Surf Shop and it is well worth the time to stop in, regardless of whether you are a surfer, and hear him read his musings on the sea. Perlee believes that Westport surfers aren’t in it for the surfing experience as much as for their fascination of the sea. He also says that people here often face insurmountable odds, but they always bounce back. As the town’s industry expanded from fishing to include surfing and other kinds of recreation, cottage industries popped up. Wineries, restaurants and great little hotels are scattered throughout Westport and surrounding areas. With my own spirit soaring, I could not wait to try as many as I could fit in during a visit that was too brief. Aloha Alabama BBQ is true to its name. They smoke pork and chicken low and slow so it absorbs the flavors of smoldering Yakima apple and Hawaiian kiawe wood. Order crispy, fried Willapa oysters along with the signature cocktail, the Alabama slammer, a seductive concoction of sloe gin, amaretto and orange juice, complete with a paper umbrella, and you’ll soon hear Etta James singing in your ear and feel Muscle Shoals sun on your face. Take home a quart of the 80     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

homemade BBQ sauce to recreate the joy. At the very least, tuck an extra side-cup serving in your pocket for later. It’s that good. Bennett’s Fish Shack and Merino’s Seafood Market are two great places to get fish and chips, fried oysters and more. Make sure you arrive with an empty stomach, for the trawlercaptain-size portions. They don’t mess around in this town. If you’re in the mood for a dish that’s isn’t the kind you enjoy from a plastic basket, hit Cranberry Road Winery for fish stews, brews and house bottled vino. Try the syrah, even if you are eating fish. Westport Winery Garden Resort’s creative menu, mimosa flights and tiny “flight of fancy” martini towers are the high tide of culinary fun. The gardens alone are worth the stop. Stay tuned for the opening of what they believe will be the world’s first mermaid museum. Savor charcuterie and sip a local vintage while hypnotizing yourself by gazing at the comings and goings of boats at Westhaven Wines. Owner Casey Watkins quit her job after eighteen years as a labor and delivery nurse to birth this harborside wine shop

APRIL | MAY 2021


ABOVE Artifacts at the Maritime Museum in Westport include the Destruction Island lens, built in 1888, shipped to Destruction Island in 1891, and used until 1995, when it was replaced by an automatic device. Westport historian John Shaw pauses beside it, highlighting its massive size. BOTTOM, FROM LEFT Get your seafood stew fix at Cranberry Road Winery. Westhaven Wines owner Casey Watkins, a former labor and delivery nurse, now delivers joy in the form of wine and charcuterie plates. A mermaid welcomes visitors to the Westport Winery Garden Resort, where it soon will be joined by many more at a new mermaid museum.

APRIL | MAY 2021

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      81


WESTPORT, WASHINGTON

trip planner

EAT Aloha Alabama BBQ www.alohaalabama.com Bennett’s Fish Shack www.bennettsfishshacks.com Cranberry Road Winery www.cranberryroad.net Granny Hazel’s Candy & Gift Shop www.grannyhazels.com Merino’s Seafood Market www.merinoseafoods.com Tokeland Restaurant www.tokelandhotel.com/restaurant Westhaven Wines www.facebook.com Westport Winery Garden Resort www.westportwinery.com

STAY Tokeland Hotel www.tokelandhotel.com Westport Marina Cottages www.westportmarinacottages.com

PLAY Grays Harbor Lighthouse www.wsbhs.org/lighthouse

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Westport Marina Cottages—each equipped with a full kitchen with access to an outdoor grill for serving up the catch of the day—are a boat watcher’s delight. Tokeland Hotel owner and chef Heather Earnhardt marries her Southern roots with Pacific Northwest cuisine at Washington’s oldest hotel. Aloha Alabama BBQ serves a fusion of Hawaiian and Pacific Northwest culinary delights.

The Surf Shop www.westportsurfshop.com Westport’s Maritime Museum www.wsbhs.org/museum

82     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

with her business partner, Jessica Baldridge, another former nurse. Their job satisfaction comes with “delivering a different kind of joy now.” Regress to your childhood palate at Granny Hazel’s Candy & Gift Shop to be sure you never grow out of chocolate as a bliss-inducing pairing with fermented crushed grapes. Fully immerse yourself in the terroir by staying nearby at the Tokeland Hotel & Restaurant. Owner and chef Heather Earnhardt spent years building a great culinary reputation preparing Southern-style dishes at her Seattle restaurant, The Wandering Goose, before netting the oldest hotel in Washington, first opened in 1885. Earnhardt’s inventive dishes will make you care less that the place is haunted. Another place for ethereal spirits may be the Grays Harbor Lighthouse. At 107-feet, it is the state’s tallest. Visit here to learn how its beacon of light guides seafarers home. As the sun sets, retreat to the cozy Westport Marina Cottages and reflect on the salty and sweet characters you met. This haven, warmly shared by its long-term inhabitants, APRIL | MAY 2021

has its doors open wide with hopes that you will feel at home, too. The day I arrived I’d been disappointed that the two-day weather forecast called for steady rain. By the end of my visit, I felt rejuvenated by being thoroughly drenched, repeatedly. I realized to never doubt the wisdom of a 70-year-old surfer. Perlee was right after all: getting pelted by rain cleanses the soul. I didn’t want to leave. It reminded me of what Shaw said about Westport’s progressiveness in building a tsunami-ready evacuation tower with tremendous support from the community and recognition from the Federal Emergency Management Agency. What does a community do when faced with high tsunami probability and constant damage from king tides? They don’t leave for higher ground. They stay. They improvise. They solve problems. As I reluctantly packed up to go, Perlee’s words rang in my ears: “The sea is a cruel mistress of many beguiling moods, some playfully alluring and others that depict pure rage … always drawing closer those she, and she alone, chooses.”


SOUL, InSPIRED

w w w . t rav ela s t or i a . c o m


northwest destination

A Vernal Venture

Escape to Oregon’s northern coast for renewal, rejuvenation, romance written by Cathy Carroll and Sheila G. Miller

NOW THAT THE vernal equinox has passed and our hemisphere is tilted more toward the sun, we have more daylight hours and warmer temperatures. Spring is here, and it’s a time for renewal, rejuvenation and romance. The roaring Pacific, with its Herculean waves, mineral-infused air and miraculous sunsets, is the perfect backdrop for ushering in a new season in your mind, body and spirit. Just as the sun crosses the equator, it’s a good time for us to venture across borders, no matter how grand or small. 84     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2021

With a little bit of planning, a long weekend along the northern Oregon Coast will feed your soul and make it easy to gain a new perspective. Begin in Astoria and head to Buoy Beer Company, bobbing right at the mouth of the Columbia River in an old cannery building. Let your imagination take you on a maritime journey from their deck as you sip stellar brews, savor crunchy fish and chips, watch the ships pass and the seals swim. Or head up the hill to Fort George Brewery, which has an upstairs dining room with pretty views and limited seating during the Covid era. Astoria Brewing, on the trolley line, has been brewing up delights since 1997, and Reach Break Brewing is a new addition to the brewing obsession here. Once fortified, retrace the steps of the Lewis and Clark expedition’s culmination in reaching the mouth of the Columbia in 1805. Discover more about the Native Americans who called this area home by visiting the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. Visit the Fort Clatsop replica, then hit more than 14 miles of history-laden trails.


NORTHERN OREGON COAST

northwest destination

EAT Drina Daisy www.drinadaisy.com Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe www.pacificwaybakery-cafe.com

STAY Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa www.cannerypierhotel.com Hotel Elliott www.hotelelliott.com

PLAY Lewis and Clark National Historical Park www.nps.gov/lewi/index.htm Fort George Brewery www.fortgeorgebrewery.com Buoy Beer Co. www.buoybeer.com Seaside Aquarium www.seasideaquarium.com Cape Disappointment State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/486/ Cape-Disappointment Gearhart Golf Links www.gearhartgolflinks.com

AT LEFT An aerial view of Seaside. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP At Cape Disappointment State Park, hike up to the North Head Lighthouse. Buoy Beer Company overlooks the Columbia River. Lewis and Clark National Historical Park has a Fort Clatsop replica. Classic family fun includes Seaside’s carousel.

The 6.1-mile point-to-point Fort to Sea Trail is exactly what it sounds like, and the South Slough Trail is a 3-mile loop winding through forests and at one point, a boardwalk over a wetland restoration area. Keep journeying right through dinner by indulging in the flavors of Bosnia at Drina Daisy. Think simmering beef stew with paprika and flaky filo dough pies stuffed with spinach and farm cheese or a whole fresh lamb, rubbed with Mediterranean spices, rotisserie roasted and carved to fill a platter for two. Rest your head at the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa, with epic views and thoughtful amenities. Or try the boutique Hotel Elliott in a historic building downtown. After a day near the ocean, soak in the warmth of heated bathroom floors and rooms with fireplaces. Start the next morning at Fort Stevens State Park, a fort that guarded the mouth of the Columbia River from the Civil War until the end of World War II. The 4,300-acre complex includes a campground, a lake, a disc golf course and other ways to play. The remains of the fort are perfect for a morning scramble, especially if you have children with you. The

Japanese used a submarine to shell the fort in 1942, the only time a military base in the Lower 48 was attacked by Axis Powers during the war. Head south a half hour to Seaside, Oregon’s most quintessentially kitschy oceanfront town. Tap into your inner kindergartener at the artisan crafted carousel, which runs year round. Some of the attractions may have altered hours due to coronavirus or the season, but you’ll still get a good feel for the city by taking a stroll along the promenade. Plus, the Seaside Aquarium is open year round, except on major holidays. Next, swing through Gearhart. This traditional enclave of the Portland fancy set has relatively few food options, but Pacific Way Cafe bakery is open for takeout. Golfers will find an eighteen-hole course at Gearhart Golf Links, established in 1892. If you still have a bit of wanderlust or day-old homesickness, cross the Astoria-Megler Bridge to the Washington side and head for Cape Disappointment State Park. Stretch your legs with a hike up to the North Head Lighthouse on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Take these views with you to inspire you as we embark on the season of rebirth. APRIL | MAY 2021

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      85


1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Aberdeen

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend

Shelton

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

86

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

20 Good Society Brewing

40 Spinout Space

74

Skagit Valley Tulip Festival

22 Wanderlust Delicato

42 The Hive

76

Icicle Village Resort

23 Orchard Kitchen

44 Saturna Capital

78

Tokeland Hotel & Restaurant

24 Ursa Minor

46 Homefires Bakery

78

Grays Harbor Lighthouse

24 Kingfish at West Sound

48 University of Washington

84

Northern Oregon Coast

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

APRIL | MAY 2021

Asotin


Stay Like We Do. Grateful.

Support i ng Local.

bellingham.org/road tr ip Surrounded by beauty.

@BellinghamExperience


Until Next Time Picture Lake photo by Scott Minner


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Continue for Special Insert



2021



PUT ON YOUR PRE-2020 PANTS.

At Northern Quest, the new normal can be just as fun as the old normal. Grab your mask and come play all your favorite slots and table games on the casino floor. Relax in our world-class day spa. Treat yourself to a delicious variety of restaurants and lounges. Or just kick back in our amenity-rich hotel or luxury RV resort with the Northwest’s ultimate entertainment experience right outside your door. Masks required for all guests. To see all of our COVID-19 safety precautions, visit northernquest.com/covid-19-information. NORTHERNQUEST.COM | 877.871.6772 | SPOKANE, WA


Planning Your Trip

Spokane

Straddling the cosmopolitan and the outdoors

RISING

rom an unfairly maligned second city to an important cultural destination, Spokane has grown into a city that now strikes the elusive balance of cosmopolitan delights with an abundance of outdoor pursuits.

The anchors of Spokane institutions such as Gonzaga University, WSU Health Sciences, Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture, Bing Crosby Theater, Fox Theater, the Knitting Factory, the reimagined Riverfront Plaza and the repurposed iconic Steam Plant are all foundational to the city’s emergence as Washington’s next big thing. The love and effort that has gone into rebuilding the city in a smarter, more sustainable way over the past decade is coming into

view. Named one of the nation’s ten “Smart Cities,” business and government are collaborating in using innovative technologies to address energy, water, waste and air quality issues. The medical school affiliated with Washington State University is the second in the state and Gonzaga University’s partnership with University of Washington expands medical curricula in Eastern Washington. Taken together, against a beckoning backdrop of forests, lakes, rivers

4 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

and mountain peaks, Spokane has become a love affair consumed by sophisticated cultural touches and adrenaline-peaking outings. It has been a long quarantine. Indulge your body and mind with some of Spokane’s cultural institutions. Begin with a day of shopping, because athleisure was so 2020. Shops at River Park Square (Nike, Nordstrom, Athleta, Williams Sonoma) and boutiques populate downtown Spokane while Kendall Yards brings a fresh avenue for shoppers

Photo: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance

F

written by Jack Demming


Photos, from top: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance, RÜT Bar & Kitchen, Jon Jonckers

Spokane Falls flows through a downtown packed with boutiques, restaurants and fun.

north of the river. Boutique Bleu, Lolo Boutique and Cues Clothing are a just a few of the options for women’s clothing. Next it’s on to wine tasting in between shops. Washington is known for its Bordeaux (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah) and Rhone (grenache, mourvèdre) varietals and bright chardonnays. The downtown core’s “cork district” now has more than eight tasting rooms to choose from, including Cougar Crest, Va Piano, Barrister and others. Overlooking the Spokane River from Kendall Yards is the handsome new Maryhill Winery tasting room and Craftsman Cellars. The options for creative and excellent dining are endless in the constantly sophisticating Spokane. Farm-to-table cuisine is in full harvest at vegan RÜT Bar & Kitchen. Hit The Flying Goat for pizza and Waddell’s Neighborhood Pub & Grill for burgers. Pre-theater cocktails

INSIDE

are best done at Hunt, Hogwash Whiskey Den and Bistango Martini Lounge. Though there are plenty of fashionable cocktail caves, a full night of entertainment still lies ahead. Perhaps no two stages better represent Spokane’s entertainment scene than Fox Theater and Bing Crosby Theater. Home to the Spokane Symphony, the beautifully restored Art Deco Fox Theater was built in 1931 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The talented Spokane Symphony is reason enough to go. Bing Crosby Theater, or “The Bing,” has its own rich history, built in 1915 by Danish immigrant August Paulsen, who made his fortune in nearby silver mining. At its opening, The Spokesman-Review quipped that the theater had an “atmosphere of richness over everything.” Today, that richness is the backdrop for top music and comedy acts, as well as film festivals.

6-8 Dining & Drinks 10 Lodging

FROM TOP RÜT Bar & Kitchen offers a vegan take on traditional dishes. The Centennial Trail spans 40 miles, with a paved path for cyclists and runners.

12 Getting Outside 14 Arts & Culture 5 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

The night isn’t over until you’ve tested your luck at the craps tables at Northern Quest Resort & Casino. Grab your partner and head to the game tables to try your luck before a nightcap. The hotel and spa at Northern Quest make it a destination of its own. Lodging downtown is world class. There is the new Hotel Indigo, Ruby Hotels, Oxford Suites, the classic Spokane Club and the Davenport Collection featuring the luxurious Davenport mattress. A good night’s sleep is requisite for a full slate of recreation tomorrow. There is no better place to begin your day than getting your caffeine fix at First Avenue Coffee before heading out for a walk or run along the renovated Riverfront Park. Paved multipurpose trails, sculpture gardens, university campuses and architecture gazing are de rigueur on the banks of the Spokane River. You can find more paddling options farther upriver where rafters and standup paddlers put in for a thrill or a chill. Cyclists will find good terrain along the Centennial Trail, a 40-mile paved path that starts 9 miles northwest of Spokane at Sontag Park in unincorporated Nine Mile Falls before breezing through Spokane and east to the Idaho border. Mount Spokane State Park, 30 miles northeast of the city, is home to more than 100 miles of trails for hiking or trail running. Thanks to a dedicated crew of trail-grooming locals, Mount Spokane is a top cross-country skiing venue, too.

A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

Cover photo: Jason Hummel/Washington Tourism Alliance


Dining & Drinks Ruins Comfort, Japanese, eclectic, creative cocktails and food www.ruinsspokane.com Zona Blanca Ceviche from star chef Chad White www.limefishsalt.com

BURGERS Wisconsinburger Fresh ground burgers from Washington Angus www.wisconsinburger.com Durkin’s Liquor Bar Burgers and old-fashioneds www.durkinsliquorbar.com Wooden City’s fried chicken sandwich, a taste of many palate-pleasers throughout Spokane.

Hangry’s Killer burgers in Spokane Valley www.hangrysspokanevalley.com

PIZZA

New culinary fun, from libations, sushi and steaks to vegan, worldly and wood-fired

Veraci in Kendall Yards Gourmet applewood-fired pies www.veracispokane.com

he dining scene in Spokane is fun, sophisticated and growing. Star chefs are finding second acts or their primary home in Spokane, to the delight of foodies. While protein has always been there for the taking, new creative vegan options are making the scene, too. New bars and breweries are moving into Spokane’s beautiful stock of buildings downtown, signaling a new golden era for downtown Spokane.

The Flying Goat Wood-fired artisan pizza with local ingredients www.theflyinggoat.com

T

Please note: Due to the effects of the pandemic, please check each venue’s website to verify its status before visiting.

NEW Magnolia American Brasserie at Hotel Indigo A gourmet American brasserie with a French twist www.facebook.com/ Magnolia-AmericanBrasserie-101549228115925 Wooden City, Spokane A fried chicken sandwich with a restaurant built around it www.woodencityspokane.com

Bark, A Rescue Pub Upscale pub fare with a chance at pet adoption on the side www.barkrescuepub.com

FAVES The Grain Shed Craft beer and three-day fermented breads lead the offerings at this artisan eatery www.thegrainshed.coop

Umi Kitchen and Sushi Bar A new addition to Kendall Yards, Umi is an explosion of color and artistry from chefs Tong Liu and Haru Wang www.umispokane.com Masselow’s Steakhouse at Northern Quest Casino Grilled prime filet mignon from chef Tanya Broesder www.northernquest.com/diningbars/restaurants/masselows

6 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

Republic Pi Fresh dough, local ingredients, Neapolitan goodness www.republicpi.com Allie’s Vegan Pizzeria House-made, nut-based cheeses and fired in brick ovens www.alliesvegan.com

VEGAN RÜT A new veggie-based ethic in the South Hill District, RÜT has a fresh take on traditional dishes www.rutspokane.com

Photo: Wooden City

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Dining & Drinks Allie’s Vegan Pizzeria House-made pies, nut-based cheeses and fired in brick ovens www.alliesvegan.com Lucky You Lounge A cool cocktail lounge with a penchant for vegan dishes www.luckyyoulounge.com

STEAKS

Spencer’s Steakhouse One reason: Classic pairings www.bit.ly/spencersspokane Churchill’s Steakhouse One reason: Understated and elegant www.churchillssteakhouse.com

BREAKFAST The Yards Bruncheon One reason: Wild huckleberry pancakes www.theyardsbruncheon.com Hello Sugar Mini donuts for all! www.hellosugarspokane.com Dolly’s Corner Café One reason: Eggs Benedict www.dollyscornercafe. restaurantwebexpert.com

BREWERIES Whistle Punk Brewing www.whistlepunkbrewing.com Iron Goat Brewing www.my-site-101810.square.site

Zona Blanca

No-Li Brewhouse www.nolibrewhouse.com Lumberbeard Brewing www.lumberbeardbrewing.com Bellwether Brewing Co. www.bellwetherbrewing.net Steam Plant Brewing www.steamplantspokane.com/ brewery

WINE TASTING ROOMS Maryhill Winery www.maryhillwinery.com/Visit/ Spokane Barrister Winery www.barristerwinery.com Terra Blanca www.terrablanca.com Helix Wines www.helixwine.com Cougar Crest www.cougarcrestwinery.com Barili Cellars www.barilicellars.com

Overbluff Cellars www.facebook.com/OverbluffCellars-107064226003874 Monte Scarlatto Estate Winery www.montescarlatto.com/ renegade

Hogwash Whiskey Den

Tempus Cellars www.tempuscellars.com

SPOKANE VALLEY WINERIES Arbor Crest Wine Cellars www.arborcrest.com Latah Creek Wine Cellars www.latahcreek.com Nodland Cellars www.nodlandcellars.com

Peacock Room Lounge at The Historic Davenport Hotel #TheMostClassy www.davenporthotelcollection.com Tiny Tiki Lounge Tropical cocktails in an intimate setting www.thetinytiki.com

COCKTAILS

Bistango Martini Lounge Spokane’s ultimate lounge experience www.bistangolounge.com

Durkin’s Liquor Bar Reclassified diner with good food and cocktails www.durkinsliquorbar.com

Scratch Dark elegance in downtown Spokane www.scratchspokane.com

Hogwash Whiskey Den The speakeasy basement www.drinkhogwash.com

Twigs Bistro and Martini Bar www.twigsbistro.com/locationsriver-park-square

8 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

Photos, from top: Visit Spokane, Erin Peterson/Hogwash Whiskey Den

Masselow’s Steakhouse at Northern Quest Resort & Casino A menu based on the four seasons and four-course offerings, too www.northernquest.com/diningbars/restaurants/masselows


Y O U R

C L O S E

Endless events, activities & worldclass attractions

B Y

D E S T I N A T I O N

E S C A P E

Discover a massive theme park, chip onto the world’s only floating golf green, indulge in deluxe accommodations and luxurious spas, explore a lakefront downtown with hundreds of shops and 5-star dining. Every day of every season there are countless ways to play and stay in Coeur d’Alene.

Visit us today at coeurdalene.org


Lodging

Hotel Indigo Spokane

The Historic Davenport Hotel’s classic architecture reflects the glamour of the past century.

From new and boutique-y to historic and comfy, cool and sophisticated places to dream

J

ust as the dining scene has taken off in Spokane, so too have the lodging options. The landscape has long been dominated by two competing hoteliers behind The Davenport Collection and Ruby Hospitality. Each hotel group has a diversity of creative and sophisticated takes on lodging. Hotel Indigo, a newbie from International Hotel Group, opened during the pandemic in a beautifully renovated building downtown and with a French-American brasserie. Among this group, there are no bad nights.

The Davenport Collection • Davenport Grand • The Historic Davenport • The Davenport Tower • Davenport Lusso • The Centennial www.davenporthotelcollection.com/ our-hotels Ruby Hospitality Hotels • Ruby River Hotel • The Montvale Hotel • Hotel Ruby • Hotel Ruby2 www.rubyhospitality.com

10 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

Hotel Indigo Spokane www.ihg.com/hotelindigo/hotels/ us/en/spokane/gegdg/hoteldetail The Spokane Club www.spokaneclub.org/STAY Northern Quest Resort & Casino www.northernquest.com Oxford Suites Spokane www.oxfordsuitesspokane.com DoubleTree by Hilton www.hilton.com/en/hotels/spcc-dtdoubletree-spokane-city-center

Photos, clockwise from left: Davenport Hotels, Hotel Indigo Spokane, Visit Spokane

Pillow Talk

The Montvale Hotel


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Getting Outside Dishman Hills Natural Area

Rivers Run Through It

Kalispel Golf and Country Club

Spokane’s forests, lakes, rivers and mountain peaks set the stage for adventure

T

here are big skies in and around Spokane and lots to do beneath them. The golf scene is well developed and varied, offering a season’s worth of golf without having to play the same course twice, unless you wanted. Spokane also has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to trails for hiking and biking and nearby rivers and lakes for kayaking, standup paddling and rafting.

GOLF Esmeralda Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/esmeralda Downriver Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/downriver Indian Canyon Golf Course www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon

The Creek at Qualchan www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/qualchan Kalispel Golf and Country Club www.northernquest.com/golf Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course www.cdaresort.com Circling Raven Golf Club www.cdacasino.com/golf

HIKING & BIKING Mount Spokane State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/549/ Mount-Spokane Spokane Riverfront Park www.my.spokanecity.org/ riverfrontspokane Dishman Hills Natural Area www.dishmanhills.org

12 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

Riverside State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/573/ Riverside High Drive Bluff www.friendsofthebluff.org/ trail-maps

PADDLING Riverside State Park www.parks.state.wa.us/573/ Riverside Spokane Parks & Recreation www.my.spokanecity.org/parksrec Liberty Lake www.spokanecounty.org/Facilities/ Facility/Details/Liberty-LakeRegional-Park-39 Spokane River www.spokaneriver.net/watertrail/ category/recreational-resources

Photos, from left: Visit Spokane, Kalispel Golf and Country Club, Aaron Theisen/Washington Tourism Alliance

Riverside State Park, 12,000 acres on the Spokane and Little Spokane rivers near Nine Mile Falls.



Arts & Culture

From Bing to Nirvana ... and every cool thing in between: Spokane’s burgeoning arts scene spans many genres

Spokane Symphony www.spokanesymphony.org The Bing Theater www.bingcrosbytheater.com Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox www.foxtheaterspokane.org The Knitting Factory www.sp.knittingfactory.com Northern Quest Resort & Casino www.northernquest.com

Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture www.northwestmuseum.org

Martin Woldson Theater at The Fox

Historic Flight Foundation www.historicflight.org Chase Gallery www.spokanearts.org/ programs/chase-gallery Jundt Art Museum www.gonzaga.edu/student-life/ arts-culture/jundt-art-museum Historic Flight Foundation

Jundt Art Museum’s “Seven Years of Acquisitions, 2013-2020” exhibition includes works by Ansel Adams, Marc Chagall, Andy Warhol and more.

14 • Spokane Travel Guide 2021

Photos, from top: Visit Spokane, Historic Flight Foundation, Zack Berlat/Gonzaga University

T

he Spokane arts culture is thriving across many venues, galleries and stages. From performing arts, to cool music venues and inspired art collections, the Lilac City is as cultured as it is sporty.


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For real time arrival and departure flight information, go to www.spokaneairports.net.


THE INLAND NORTHWEST’S PREMIER SHOPPING CENTER River Park Square Shopping Center unites world class brands and local favorites in the heart of Spokane. There’s always something new to be discovered, just steps away from Riverfront Park, Centennial Trail, hotel accomodations and all downtown has to offer. NORDSTROM • APPLE • LUSH • AMC 20 THEATRES WITH IMA X • POTTERY BARN • STCU URBAN OUTFITTERS • SEPHORA • FREE PEOPLE • NIKE • ANTHROPOLOGIE

DOWNTOWN SPOK ANE AT M A IN & POST RI V ERPA RKS QUA RE .COM

(Don’t forget: convenient covered parking for all your adventures.)