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September | October
volume 70
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
Gorgeous Gastronomy photography by Aubrie LeGault FROM SALTED CARAMEL, passion and espresso truffles to chocolate bars named for iconic Hood River experiences, Jessica Wright pays homage to the fun and flavors of the community she loves through her culinary mastery and Columbia Gorge Confections. For instance, after kiteboarding all day you may get windburn, but try grabbing a bar of the same name. It’s Wright’s riff on an Almond Joy, upping the game and with dark Swiss and milk chocolate, almonds from Spain and toasted coconut from Hawaii. With deep roots in the Portland restaurant scene, her influence is something of a state secret. (pg. 64) SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
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farm to table
Homegrown Chef
Cranberry Camps
Don’t relegate this luscious fall berry to remedying dry turkey written by Thor Erickson photography by Tambi Lane GROWING UP, when it came to Thanksgiving, where cranberries were concerned, there were two camps: homemade sauce, or canned jelly. The sauce folks followed a strict Norwegian family recipe for tranebær (cranberry, in the mother tongue) that was really nothing different than the ubiquitous recipe involving cranberry, sugar and orange juice. The only thing different was the name. The jelly camp, on the other hand, was more carefree, prioritizing enjoying a cocktail and reconnecting with family instead of spending more time in the kitchen. As a kid, I thought cranberry sauce was merely an antidote to dry, overcooked turkey. Later, I knew there had to be more to these juicy, tart, crimson cranberries. As I grew into a chef, I began using them in different ways— juicing them for drinks, infusing vinegars with them, pickling them and cooking them to bring out the natural sugars. Roasted cranberries proved to be a luscious complement to savory dishes such as grilled salmon, roasted lamb and grain-based salads. Here’s a favorite recipe for late summer and early fall.
Roasted cranberries proved to be a luscious complement to savory dishes such as grilled salmon, roasted lamb and grain-based salads. 40 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
Roasted Cranberry and Couscous Salad SERVES 8 • 2 cups of fresh (or frozen) cranberries • 1 medium butternut squash (21/2 to 3 pounds), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces • 1 medium red onion, halved and cut into 1/4 inch slices • 6 tablespoons olive oil, divided • 11/2 cups uncooked Israeli (pearl) couscous • 3 cups water • 2 tablespoons apple cider or white wine vinegar • Finely grated zest and juice of 1 small orange • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning • 4 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup) • Kosher salt and fresh black pepper Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400 degrees. Place the cranberries on a baking sheet and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes. The berries will be plump when you remove them, but will quickly shrivel a bit, which is good. While the berries are roasting, place the squash cubes and onion slices on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, sprinkle with salt and fresh black pepper and toss to combine. Spread into an even layer. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the squash is tender and the onions are starting to slightly brown, about 30 minutes. Set aside to cool before combining with other ingredients. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the couscous and cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted and light golden-brown, about 3 minutes. Add the water and a big pinch of salt, stir to combine, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered until the couscous is tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the couscous through a fine-mesh strainer. Whisk the vinegar, remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, zest, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin and 1/2 teaspoon of salt together in a large bowl. Add the squash, onions, couscous and drained cranberries. Gently stir to combine. Taste and season the salad with salt and pepper if needed. Sprinkle the goat cheese over the top of the salad. Serve at room temperature.
farm to table
Tart, crimson cranberries add a surprising zing to grain salad with a hint of sweetness.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
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Form, Function,
Financially Fit
Fabulous
Oregon designers spill the smartest ways to use $50,000 in home equity written by Melissa Dalton
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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
In the past year, our homes have taken on new significance. We relish the comfort they provide, while pondering possibilities for making them even better. We asked three Oregon designers to weigh in on how they’d recommend homeowners spend $50,000 in home equity. Turns out, a little can go a long way, if you know where to use it.
Textured bathroom walls can add soul to a bathroom without spending too much money.
HOUSE OF MILO, BEND
Sarah Westhusing | Remodel a kitchen or bathroom People tend to look at the question of remodeling in two ways, said Sarah Westhusing, interior designer and founder of House of Milo, a Bendbased studio which tackles everything from new builds to renovations. “The first are the people that really focus on return on investment,” she said. They only want to invest an amount in updates that they’ll recoup when they sell the house. For that group, Westhusing suggested remodeling the kitchen or a bathroom. Regarding the kitchen, several factors, such as the size of the room and the quality of finishes will affect project cost, and high-end kitchen remodels can easily soar past $100,000, so the designer offered tips for getting a custom look for less. For example, since bespoke cabinetry can easily eat up $40,000, Westhusing proposed researching prefab options, such as those from IKEA. These can be paired with semi-custom fronts in an array of styles and finishes, such as those from the Oregon-based Kokeena. For a built-in look, buy a cabinet-depth refrigerator that’s flush with the cabinets, hide appliances such as the dishwasher behind a cabinet front, or carry cabinetry up to the ceiling. In the bathroom, replace an outdated vanity, update the faucet, and change light fixtures for a
big impact. Costs rise significantly when moving plumbing, and a bathroom overhaul can clock in just as much as a kitchen refresh. “I’ll tell you, a bathroom and a kitchen are close,” said Westhusing. “Bathrooms always blow people away, how expensive they are, because there’s a lot of plumbing.” Westhusing grew up visiting the job site of her family’s commercial construction business and was trained from a young age to appreciate the details that compose a room. If return on investment isn’t a primary concern, the designer recommended thinking about the things that will inject personality. “Between Pinterest and HGTV, we’re all moving towards this really homogenous look,” said Westhusing. “So, I’ve been pushing people to think about, how do you make your home feel more special, or what are ways to add character?” For example, an accent treatment that incorporates texture, like wall paneling or applying tongue-and-groove to the ceiling “is really an affordable update that adds a little soul,” said Westhusing. Or, fit flexible solutions to rooms with multiple uses, such as installing a folddown Murphy bed in an office, to create a workspace that can be readied into a guest room.
SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2021
Sarah’s Top Tips Westhusing is seeing a lot of “living finishes,” such as unlacquered brass that will patina over time, handmade tiles with an old-world feel, and woodgrain in kitchens. People are moving “away from this man-made, made in a factory, mass-produced look, to things with subtle imperfections, color variation, and that connect more to human beings,” said Westhusing. Layer the lighting in a bathroom, including under-cabinet lighting for a soft, nighttime glow, and ensure the mirror has proper illumination for good grooming.
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