1859 Oregon's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Golf Northwest | March/April 2024 by Statehood Media

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Northwest Golf Guide

International Food Tours Led by Local Chefs

Oregon Pink Shrimp: Culinary Powerhouse

WELLNESS RETREATS

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Close to everything but away from it all, Discovery West is conveniently located in the heart of Bend’s west side. New custom homes are intermingled with nature, trails and bike paths—and close to schools, parks, shops and restaurants. Coming this fall, a vibrant community plaza, specialty retail and even more amenities will continue to differentiate this unique neighborhood. Discover your best Central Oregon lifestyle by learning more at discoverywestbend.com or visiting our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane.

Year-round recreation, jaw dropping beauty, and true Bavarian charm meet in surprising ways in the heart of the Northwest. Book your adventure today. leavenworth.org 23LCC009 Full Page 1859 Magazine

Oregonians helping Oregonians. In 2020, a project was launched that turned empty hotels into homes for the unhoused, including people who’d lost their homes in the recent wildfires. Brian Resendez, a broker bringing hotels into the fold, was so moved by the experience that he became a donor to support organizations providing critical services to the unhoused. Thank you, Brian. Want to find the perfect match for your generosity? Oregon Community Foundation can help. Let’s get started.

“I give because I saw what an impact one person can have in our community.” — BRIAN RESENDEZ

D O N O R S I N C E 2021

LET’S GET STARTED

O R E G O N C F.O R G /G E T S TA R T E D

Waterfront Wonders It’s time to re-introduce yourself to Washington’s Vancouver, on the north shore of the Columbia River! Once occupied by a paper mill, the Vancouver Waterfront is accessible for the first time in 100 years, with world-class experiences awaiting visitors. Discover one-of-a-kind restaurants, riverfront wine-tasting, unbeatable views, chic hotels, and all Vancouver has to offer. Settle in before setting out at one of the two Waterfront hotels, enhancing visitor stays to new heights with stunning riverfront scenes and sophistication. From sweeping views of the Columbia River to the Grant Street Pier and the Portland skyline, each hotel provides an elevated feel. Opening its doors in 2022, the AC Hotel by Marriott is the first modern hotel to hit the Waterfront. presenting a stylish lodging feel with sleek contemporary designs that have a European flair. With panoramic views of the Columbia and a combination of quality and timeless design, guests can connect with the city in a unique new way. Take advantage of dining located on the ground floor in the AC Lounge. Enjoy Mediterranean dishes with perfectly crafted flavors and enticing cocktails. And remember to book a spa treatment at the on-site Vancouver Wellness Center. Next door, Hotel Indigo delivers stylish décor and a fun boutique atmosphere. Uncover exceptionally curated rooms and spaces with innovative comforts. Traveling with your furry companion? Not to worry; Hotel Indigo is pet-friendly and welcomes your fluffy friends. Visitors can enjoy premier cuisine within the building, such as El Gaucho, a Portland steakhouse (complete with the rooftop Witness Tree Lounge), and 13 Coins, a Seattle favorite. On the ground floor, you can find Evoke Wine Bar with its wisecracks and creativity. Other Northwest favorites that have joined the lineup of riverfront establishments include Salt & Straw

Ice Cream and Willamette Valley Vineyards—along with Ruse Brewing Crust Collective, a Portland-based brewery serving Detroit-style pizza, and Grassa, bestknown for its fast-casual, artisan pasta. Pair your stay with a stop at one of the eight winetasting rooms from renowned wineries around Washington and Oregon within a few blocks of one another. Sip a Cabernet Franc bellied up to the circa 1885 wood-crafted Brunswick bar at Maryhill Winery or embrace the aviation history tied to Airfield Estates while tasting wines titled after vintage aircraft. For additional dining options at the Waterfront, delight in fresh seafood on WildFin’s outdoor patio or savor Latin cuisine and tequila at DOSALAS’ story spot overlooking the Grant Street Pier. In the evening, view the sunset while taking a stroll along the Waterfront Renaissance Trail with dessert from The Yard Milkshake Bar and their over-the-top ice cream creations. For more Vancouver vibes, Downtown buzzes less than a half mile away from the Waterfront. Discover year-round events at Esther Short Park, local awardwinning breweries, and the historic Kiggins Theatre. Eateries include everything from casual pizza places to stylish farm-to-table dining. Learn about the roots of the Pacific Northwest at Fort Vancouver, just a mile east of downtown. Explore the Pearson Air Museum next door and wander Officers Row lined with 22 preserved Victorian homes that will transport you to another era.

VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON IS MAKING A NAME FOR ITSELF. COME SEE FOR YOURSELF!

Plan your getaway at visitvancouverwa.com

Treat yourself to a local wellness getaway, from coastal retreats to a woodland hot springs hideaway.

FEATURES MARCH | APRIL 2024 • volume 85

58 Oregon Wellness Retreats Refresh body and mind at these seven wellness destinations around the state this spring. written by Jean Chen Smith

64 Artist Anna Sweet brings notes of art and culture to Willamette Valley with her avant-garde Artist Block. written by Kerry Newberry

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Overleaf Lodge & Spa

Appellation: Pop Art

seaside is for Making time for family time

We love sleepovers and school and camps and clubs and playdates and every-Saturday soccer games. But we also know the importance of spending time as a family. In whatever shape or form your family takes! So if real life is making it hard to get everyone together, book a long weekend—or better yet a Spring Break week—in Seaside.

@visitseasideOR

seasideOR.com

DEPARTMENTS MARCH | APRIL 2024 • volume 85

LIVE 18 NOTEBOOK

Iconic styles from NBA athletes, singer-songwriter Dan Shanahan is back with Staring Down the Moon, Live Wire turns 20.

24 FOOD + DRINK

International chef-led food tours, Xiao Ye’s fine dining, the Oregon Cheese Festival.

28 FARM TO TABLE Carter Hiyama/Xiao Ye

Oregon pink shrimp and a recipe inspired by a former Trail Blazer.

36 HOME + DESIGN

An architect takes on Portland’s first residential CLT incarnation—his own home.

44 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Jaclyn Moyer, author of On Gold Hill.

THINK 48 STARTUP

The Oregon wine industry plots a new and resilient future.

50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Renée Tkach’s Gorge Towns to Trails project.

52 MY WORKSPACE

Judith Baumann at Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts.

54 GAME CHANGER

Cascade Relays Foundation.

EXPLORE Shawn Linehan

Cascade Relays

82 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Fossil, Oregon, lives up to its name.

84 ADVENTURE

Four surf spots on the Oregon Coast.

90 LODGING

14 Editor’s Letter 15 1859 Online 102 Map of Oregon 104 Until Next Time

COVER

photo by Justin Bailie (see Adventure, pg. 84)

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Cedartree Hotel, Hillsboro.

92 TRIP PLANNER

Prineville and Crook County.

98 NW DESTINATION Whitefish, Montana.

WHEN IT RAINS, WE POUR.

CELEBRATE TAP SEASON IN TUALATIN VALLEY NOW THROUGH APRIL 30TH Warm up with a cold one at one of Tualatin Valley’s craft breweries, cideries or taphouses. Find your new favorite pour at

TUALATINVALLEY.ORG

WCVA_1859_OR_March_April_2024_Tap_Season.indd 1

2/8/24 10:03 AM

CONTRIBUTORS

GRANT STRINGER Writer What I’m Working On

TAMBI LANE Photographer Homegrown Chef

JEAN CHEN SMITH Writer An Oregon Wellness Quest

JEREMY STORTON Writer Beerlandia

“Lots of people say backpacking the Columbia River Gorge is overrated, but they’re wrong. In fact, it’s only going to be more fun to pitch a tent there. I was lucky to talk with Renée Tkach of the nonprofit Friends of the Columbia Gorge, who is leading the effort to build a 200-mile loop hike around the National Scenic Area.” (pg. 50)

“After photographing a second cookbook, I knew it was time to transition from portraits and running a full-time studio to photographing food. Collaboration has been a favorite part of photography for me, and working in a new genre gave me an opportunity to create with many new and talented people. My favorite perk of them all, and the answer to the most-asked question, is yes! I usually do get to taste all of the dishes I photograph, and who doesn’t love that!” (pg. 34)

“Health and wellness have been a part of my life since my early twenties when I fell in love with running and Pilates, so when I had the opportunity to write about wellness destinations, I was ecstatic. These spots are diverse, each offering a different model of wellness. The common theme I noticed throughout was the focus on nature and the great outdoors, which is hugely appropriate as spring rounds the corner. Our state is full of places to facilitate healing and improve our well-being, so it was hard to choose just seven!” (pg. 58)

“As a kid, I told everyone I was born in Hawaii. Later, my mother pulled me aside and nervously told me, ‘You weren’t born in Hawaii. You were made there.’ Nonetheless, the ocean has been a central theme throughout my waterman life. My perfect day is smelling like a salty wetsuit while watching the sun dip below the horizon with an Oregon beer in my hand.” (pg. 24)

With nearly two decades of experience in photography, Tambi Lane is a food and beverage photographer in Bend. She enjoys time with her family and two French bulldogs.

Jean Chen Smith is an Oregonbased freelance journalist who is passionate about storytelling and curating authentic travel experiences. When not writing and traveling, she enjoys running her Pilates studio, trail running and spending time with her shih tzus, Tonka and Paisley.

Grant Stringer is a freelance journalist based in Portland writing for national newspapers and local outlets in the U.S. West. He covers the Oregon Legislature for The Oregonian.

10 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Jeremy Storton is an Advanced Cicerone®, beer educator, awardwinning podcaster and freediving instructor.

EDITOR

Kevin Max

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

Aaron Opsahl

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Joni Kabana

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Thor Erickson

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Jean Chen Smith, Melissa Dalton, Joni Kabana, Julie Lee, Kerry Newberry, Daniel O’Neil, Ben Salmon, James Sinks, Jen Sotolongo, Grant Stringer

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Justin Bailie, Don Frank, Tambi Lane, Sohil Makwana, Tim Mustoe, Daniel O’Neil, Whitney Whitehouse

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Kate Wong

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

12 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

FROM THE

EDITOR

THE TERM “wellness retreat” seems overlapping, if not redundant, yet who’s gonna bicker with words when whole new worlds of stressreleasing settings and facilities appear? Larry David’s statute of limitations of three days has long expired for talk of the new year, so think of these seven ideas for a retreat as a self gift before the summer obligations overwhelm your schedule. Turn to page 58 to read more about trips that include spas to working cattle ranches. My own wellness is so closely tied to running that it comes as no surprise that I would gravitate to the story about Cascade Relays Foundation, trying to overcome hardship of the pandemic to get back on its feet again. This nonprofit organization brings crucial funds to rural areas its paths cross. See Game Changer on page 54. I have to admit to being caught off guard by two stories in this issue. The first involves a seafood industry that I knew little about prior to this story: Oregon pink shrimp. One of the largest on the Oregon Coast, the pink shrimp catch is the foundation of many generations of Oregon fishermen and women. Turn to page

14 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

28 to read more and see our recipes with pink shrimp. The other oddity was that, as a state that talks endlessly about the virtues of cross-laminated timber, Oregon has only very recently started to use CLT in residential homes. In Home + Design on page 36, you can read about Portland’s first single-family residential build using CLT from an architect who had long worked with CLT in commercial projects. Two people who inspire me in this issue are Renée Tkach as she works to create a 200-mile continuous trail throughout both the Oregon and Washington sides of the Columbia River Gorge (pg. 50). Just asking one neighbor for a property easement is complex. Imagine doing that for hundreds of neighbors. I’m also a fan of Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts studio director Judith Baumann and its founders, James Lavadour (of the Walla Walla tribe) and Phillip Cash Cash (Cayuse and Nez Perce). The founders established the institute in 1992, while Baumann furthers its mission to provide a creative conduit for Native Americans through art. You can read more about Baumann and Crow’s Shadow on page 52.

1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

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SHOP LOCAL Stop by Local, our curated online shop of goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find jewelry, specialty foods and more. Or show your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hats and other apparel. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregon magazine.com/shop

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE Read 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and 1889 Washington’s Magazine anywhere, on any device, with our digital edition. Follow us today on Issuu.com. www.bit.ly/statehoodmediadigital

HAVE A PHOTO THAT SHOWS OFF YOUR OREGON EXPERIENCE? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/postcard photo by Mackenzie Berninghaus The rocks are alive at Tunnel Beach on the Oregon Coast.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

NOTEBOOK 18 FOOD + DRINK 24 FARM TO TABLE 28 HOME + DESIGN 36

pg. 34 A Swedish take on an Oregon seafood staple—pink shrimp.

Tambi Lane

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 44

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Tidbits + To-dos

CAmark y LEN our DA R

written by Cathy Carroll

Live Wire’s Twentieth Anniversary Show

Jennie Baker

Live Wire—the Portlandbased public radio show of fun, engaging and unexpected conversation, live music and comedy—is celebrating its twentieth anniversary at Portland’s Revolution Hall on March 16. Local guests include writer Cheryl Strayed, soul-band Ural Thomas & The Pain and more. Live Wire, hosted by Luke Burbank, is broadcast nationally on more than 200 radio stations and has a weekly listening audience of more than 300,000. www.livewireradio.org

Powerhouse Acting Coaches at The Studio NW

Vin Shambry

Treasure Lunan

Portland’s Studio NW has two new, accomplished acting coaches. Vin Shambry spent seven years on Broadway in Rent. He recently wrapped filming on Outdoor School, a feature based on his life growing up in Portland and his experiences with housing insecurity. He has toured and performed around the world. Coach Treasure Lunan’s recent performances include Dracula: A Feminist Revenge Story, Really and A Midsummer Night’s Dream, both at Portland Center Stage. www.thestudionw.com

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Ledlenser’s Auto-Adjusting Headlamp When you’re adventuring with hands full of ski poles, paddles, handlebars or camping equipment, adjusting your headlamp can be problematic. That’s where Portland-based Ledlenser’s HF8R Signature Headlamp comes in. Its adaptive technology dims and focuses automatically for precise illumination, and the cooling system extends the run time of the powerful lumens. It’s waterproof, easily rechargeable and comes with an additional red, blue and green front light. www.ledlenserusa.com

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Benchmark Creative Space Benchmark is a new creative workspace, gallery and immersive retail experience with a rotation of makers and vendors in Portland. It is hosting exhibitions, artist talks and community events, offering cross-sector networking for creatives siloed in the apparel, food, music, film and other industries. Benchmark’s “Stay the Course” bags are upcycled from Black Lives Matter banners that the Portland Art Museum had displayed in their courtyard, but which kept getting torn down. www.benchmarkpdx.com

Andy Warhol’s Endangered Species Wildlife and the fiftieth anniversary of the Endangered Species Act are getting their fifteen minutes of fame in the exhibition Andy Warhol’s Endangered Species: From the Collections of Jordan D. Schnitzer and His Family Foundation at the High Desert Museum in Bend. It includes Grevy’s Zebra, from 1983. Works from Warhol’s Skull series and one of his iconic Marilyn Monroe works are also in the exhibit, which runs through April 7. www.highdesertmuseum.org/warhol

r you R k r DA ma

Evan Engstrom

CAL

Revino Reusable Wine Bottles Winemakers are embracing a trailblazing system in sustainability: refillable glass bottles from Newberg-based Revino. Built in partnership with the wine industry, the bottles can cut carbon emissions up to 85 percent. The U.S. is the only industrialized nation without refillable infrastructure and used 16.2 billion glass food and beverage containers in 2022 alone. Revino’s system will accept returned bottles through new and existing deposit locations and partnerships. www.revinobottles.com

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Musician

A Songwriter’s Long Journey

New Wave Media

Throughout those early years, Shanahan dealt with the kind of doubt and insecurity about his music that will sound familiar to Oregon’s Dan Shanahan releases his new many artists. “I had a hard time listening to it, honalbum—more than a decade in the making estly, because I thought it was worse than written by Ben Salmon it really was,” he said. “So it was most of the way done, and I kind of shelved it.” The past eight years have been a blur, not because of alcohol, but because Shanahan and his wife, Jamie, have had three children during that time. They moved back to Bend in 2017 and then away again, eventually landing in The Dalles, where they live now. Along the way, they’ve dealt with a variety of health issues. Plus, Shanahan lost contact with Plant and didn’t have access to his old recordings for five years. In 2023, however, they found their way back to him. Older, sober and more mature, Shanahan was pleasantly surprised by what he heard. “All those years, I was always like, ‘Gosh, should I try to finish that project?’ For a long time, it was on a back burner, and then for a while I didn’t even know if I’d ever see it again,” he said. “But then when Dennis sent me the files and I heard everyone’s work on it, I was like, ‘Man, this is a story that needs to be told.’ I mean, that’s what you do as a songwriter. You tell stories.” Shanahan’s long-awaited second album is called Staring Down the Moon, and it features not only a number of talented Central Oregon musicians, but nine songs that showcase his seemingly deep well of Dan Shanahan releases Staring memorable melodies, his fine-grit voice— Down the Moon after staring perfect for rootsy folk-rock—and his gift down his own life turbulence. for telling compelling stories that feel both deeply personal and universally resonant at the same time. OREGON SINGERSONGWRITER Dan Shanahan released And even though they’re more than a decade old, Shanahan his first album, Waiting On My Train, in 2009, and shortly there- still feels a connection to them, after began working on songs for a follow-up effort. he said. Listen on Spotify He even finished most of them and started putting them to “There are some deeper toptape with Dennis Plant at Bon Vivant Studios in Tumalo. ics on there, for sure, and they’re “It was probably 2012 or 2013 when I started recording [a still things I think about today,” second album],” Shanahan said. “I actually met my wife during he said. “It’s obvious I was facthat process.” ing some demons at that time, But then life got in the way—a whole lot of it. First, Shanahan but there was a lot of good stuff got a job promotion that required a move from Bend to the Port- happening in my life, too. When land area. The new job came with more stress, which opened I hear it now, I think my younger Shanahan’s eyes to the fact that he needed to stop drinking. self would be proud that I found He has been sober since 2016, he said. a way to get it done.” 20

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.Maloys.com

Love at first sight For fine antique and custom jewelry, or for repair work, come visit us, or shop online at Maloys.com. We also buy.

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Pulitzer Prize winner Mitchell S. Jackson holds master’s degrees from Portland State University and New York University.

Bibliophile

Fashion, Hoops and Culture Fly is a photo-rich, culturally astute celebration of NBA athletes’ iconic style interview by Cathy Carroll

MITCHELL S. JACKSON was born and raised in Portland and has the rose tattoo to prove it. He won a Pulitzer Prize in 2021 for his article in Runner’s World about a 25-year-old Black man gunned down when he went for a jog in Georgia—and about how running fails Black America. An acclaimed novelist and nonfiction writer as well as a Portland Trail Blazers fan, his latest book, Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion, details the intersection of high fashion and basketball, from the league’s inception to today. Half lookbook, half cultural commentary, it explores styles from the pre-Civil Rights Movement through the birth of funk, R&B flash (fur coats, big hats), the Michael Jordan era of the 1980s and 1990s with oversize suits, to the late 1990s and early 2000s hip-hop. It covers today’s social media influence, high fashion’s “tunnel walk” (think LeBron James, Dwyane Wade and Russell Westbrook) and athletes as style icons and activists inspiring conversations beyond how they play and what they wear.

Christa Harris

In researching Fly, did anything surprise you? During World War II, you couldn’t use a certain fabric—rubber. Everybody needed to conserve so that we could win the war. I never thought about how what was happening politically in that time would have shaped what people are wearing. Then (during the Civil Rights era) they’re just wearing the serious clothes of the day—dark suits, wingtips and white shirts with ties, close-cropped hair and usually no facial hair. After the Civil Rights Movement is when we get the blaxploitation, funk music, bell bottoms and the counterculture movement against the Vietnam War. All of those things open up people’s freedom, in how they dress and their expression. NBA players are part of that. America, they are doing it, too. That’s when we get Bill Walton and Walt “Clyde” Frazier, who’s basically like a funk band member in the way that he dresses.

Growing up in Portland, what influenced your style? When I was really young, it was network TV or looking at magazines—GQ, Esquire, because my uncles had them. 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Getty Images, Bettmann/Contributor; excerpted from Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion

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The stylish Walt Frazier in a photo from Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion.

That was a lot of dreaming because I couldn’t afford those clothes, nor would I even know how to find them, and I wasn’t of age to fit them. Then MTV comes, and I’m starting to see what hip-hop looks like on the East Coast. That also was a great influence on me. My uncle worked at St. Vincent DePaul, and we would go in there and get the clothes secondhand. I was always trying to approximate the cool fashion of my time. And then I got into selling drugs when I was in my late teens. And a few years after high school, you were arrested with drugs and a gun and spent sixteen months in a state prison? I’ve said a lot about it. In terms of being fashionable, which is also the pressure to be accepted by one’s peers, to feel significant, that influenced a lot of my decision. I don’t want to say that was the only one or even the strongest one, but it was certainly a very strong influence—why I needed money and to cloak my poverty. I spent a lot of time wearing clothes to cloak how I felt and what was happening in my private life.

LeBron James arrives to Crypto.com Arena in Los Angeles in February 2023.

How would you describe your style now? Cool professor. I know what the trends are, I have a handle on the styles, I understand fit and fabric and proportions and fabrication and a lot of stuff. But I also recognize I’m 48 years old and I’m a professor, so there are just some trends that are not for me. That’s the beauty of being in this space—I push the envelope a little bit, but I’m never going to do something that makes me feel outside of my personality.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 23

food + drink

Beerlandia

Terroir of the Sea written by Jeremy Storton | illustrations by Kate Wong I WAS 30 FEET DEEP, looking at a fish on the business end of my spear, when I wondered what beer I should drink with it. It stared back at me as if waiting for an answer. I surfaced and gave my partner the OK sign. “Tacos. Definitely tacos … and a good Märzen,” I thought. In one way or another, the sea has entwined itself into my favorite experiences, especially the beer-filled ones. (I even decided to pursue beer professionally while seeking the refreshing bliss of an import after surfing.) Like terroir in wine, the sea has a way of diffusing into our lives and our souls. It took my moving away from the ocean to realize this, but my time in Oregon has only strengthened my bond with the sea. At low levels, salt enhances flavor. It stimulates our taste buds to run our food and drink through the surround sound of flavor on our palate. Anyone who’s ever binged on fries and a beer can confirm this. I suspect the sea air of the coast works the same way, except I believe it stimulates all our senses. That makes every trip to the coast special, maybe even sacred. Luckily for us, the Oregon Coast is teeming with incredible breweries. I’ve drunk beer from or visited nearly all of them. Each has its own character, but the commonality among them is the terroir of the sea. Like the song of the Siren, the coastal breweries hold the magic of picturesque location and briny air. This subtle magic ends up in our beer. And if we’re paying attention enough to notice, it will tantalize our senses and command us to return.

OREGON COAST BREWERY TOUR Astoria Breakside Brewery Astoria Fort George Brewery Tillamook de Garde Brewing Pacific City Pelican Brewing Co. Lincoln City Rusty Truck Brewing Gleneden Beach Beachcrest Brewing Co.

Depoe Bay The Horn Public House & Depoe Bay Brewing Co. Newport Rogue Ales & Spirits Yachats Yachats Brewing Coos Bay 7 Devils Brewing Co. Bandon Bandon Brewing Co.

TRY THESE COASTAL BEER PAIRINGS Pale Ale + Fish & Chips

Witbeer + Mussels

Porter + Clam Chowder

Saison + Diver Scallops

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Mexican Lager + Fish Tacos

Belgian Tripel + Croquettes

Barrel-Aged Stout + a good book on an overcast day

food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Ben Purvis, Dirty Pretty / PORTLAND

Jungle Juice • 1 ounce red wine • ½ ounce chocolate liqueur (we use Tempus Fugit for bolder flavors; Giffard Crème De Cacao is a good substitute) • ½ ounce aged Jamaican rum (we use Appleton Estate Rare Blend) • ½ ounce stone pine fruit liqueur (we used Zirbenz, which is one of the few options out there for a piney component) • ¾ ounce acid-adjusted orange juice (recipe below) • ½ ounce rich Demerara syrup Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Add crushed ice, and shake the cocktail vigorously for 5 seconds. Pour contents directly into a large collins glass or tiki mug. Top with more pebbled ice. Garnish with an orange twist (for the at-home bartender). FOR ACID-ADJUSTED ORANGE JUICE • 500 mL orange juice, strained (freshly squeezed preferred) • 30 g citric acid • 30 g sugar • 1 g salt Weigh out each dry ingredient, and add to a blender. Strain freshly squeezed orange juice and add to the blender. Blend on high for 15 seconds. Strain blended mix.

Jordan Hughes/Dirty Pretty

The fruity Jungle Juice, in pebbled ice, is best served in a collins glass or tiki mug.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Modern Adventure

food + drink

CRAVINGS:

FUN FOOD FESTS OREGON CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL A chocolate lover’s dream, this annual festival (held March 1-3 in Ashland) is packed with delicious workshops and panel discussions. Chocolatiers from across the state share their skills, leading sessions that range from how to make a Viennese chocolate baguette and chocolate and beer pairing to the history of chocolate truffles. Book tickets in advance for a five-course chocolate maker’s dinner held the first night at Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites. www.oregonchocolatefestival.com

OREGON CHEESE FESTIVAL

ABOVE Modern Adventure offers various culinary-focused trips, such as this one to the Republic of Georgia with Bonnie and Israel Morales of Kachka. AT RIGHT Chef Javier Canteras of Urdaneta will guide small groups through Spain this year through Portland Food Adventures. (photo: Portland Food Adventures)

Gastronomy

Chef-Led International Food Tours written by Kerry Newberry OVER THE PAST few years, culinary tourism has been on the rise, and Oregon is at the fore. Since launching in 2017, Modern Adventure (www.modernadventure.com) has made it their mission to use travel as a force for good. Many of their culinary offerings are led by chefs, including some of Oregon’s top tastemakers. You can take a deep dive into the culture and cuisine of Georgia with Kachka’s Bonnie and Israel Morales, explore the magic of Provence with chef Aaron Barnett of St. Jack and the best of Tokyo, Izu, Osaka and Kyoto with Michelin star chef Matt Lightner of ōkta. The homegrown Portland Food Adventures (www.portlandfoodadventures.com) has led culinary experiences to Europe with local chefs since 2015. In 2024, chef Javier Canteras of Urdaneta will guide small groups through Spain. The first trip is through the Basque region, and the second spotlights Andalucia. For an intimate experience, you can join Jaret Foster and Mona Johnson, the live-fire cooking phenoms of Tournant PDX (www.tournantpdx.com), on their annual slow food and lifestyle retreat to Croatia during peak truffle season. 26 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

At this annual celebration of cheese and everything that goes with it, you’ll find more than 100 vendors that range from artisan cheesemakers to vintners and brewers. Held April 27 and 28 at the Jackson County Expo in Central Point, the two-day event has grown into one of the largest cheese-themed festivals in the country, so there’s always something new to discover. www.oregoncheesefestival.com

GOOD FOOD MERCANTILE PORTLAND The Good Food Foundation organizes this celebration of food makers from across the country who are recognized for products that meet exceptional environmental and social responsibility standards. At this ticketed event on April 28, you can meet the award-winning makers and taste their products. Past awardees include the sambals from Sibeiho and sweet pistachio cream from Chio. www.goodfoodfdn.org

BEST PLACES FOR

MOVIE NIGHTS WITH FOOD LAKE THEATER & CAFE

Carter Hiyama/Xiao Ye

food + drink

Catch new releases at this nostalgic theater that dates back to 1940. Set in downtown Lake Oswego, the auditorium might be old school, but the menu is modern. Starters range from a tomato basil bisque to baked Brie with caramelized onion fig jam. Salad greens (which hail from nearby Happy Apple Farm in Oregon City) come topped with wild salmon, duck confit or blackened rockfish. There’s also a classic burger made with Stroupe Family Farm beef. For wine, find standout producers like Antiquum and Bow & Arrow. 106 N. STATE ST. LAKE OSWEGO www.laketheatercafe.com

LITHIA LOFT For a movie night with a setting straight from a glossy catalogue, book the Lithia Loft space. The cozy loft includes lounge chairs and furry pillows, candles and twinkle lights along with a 75” 4K TV with a variety of movie streaming options. Add in popcorn and a picnic set up (plus takeout from one of Ashland’s nearby restaurants) and you’ve got a blissful movie night for two. The dreamy space is designed by owner Kelly Hammond, who also runs the popular Rogue Picnics and Rogue Frosé (a frosé cart service).

Xiao Ye features standout dishes that change with the seasons.

Dining

Xiao Ye written by Kerry Newberry

At this pop-art studio and tasting room in Dundee, join one of the popular Film Foodie Fridays, where guests often dress up in costume to match the throwback pick. Upcoming films include Pretty Woman, Ferris Bueller’s Day Off and Dead Poets Society. You can enjoy the film with popcorn and a glass of wine, or opt for the tasting menu by chef Mason Goucher. Learn more about the owner and artwork of Artist Block on pg. 64.

EVERY DISH at Xiao Ye is an ode to memories—from the mini masa madeleines that arrive perched on a bluff of whipped butter with a sprinkle of jalapeño powder to the savory seasonal toast (on a recent night the chewy slices of sourdough came topped with roasted acorn and kabocha squash and a tangle of fresh herbs). Even the name is steeped in nostalgia. When chef Louis Lin and his partner, Jolyn Chen, were recounting their most meaningful meals over the years, it wasn’t the fancy dinners that resonated most but the twilight dishes shared with family and friends. “I thought about the meals my dad and I had after a late night at work,” said Chen. In Mandarin, these dining moments are called xiao ye, which translates to midnight snack. “It’s always cozy and comforting, and it’s the kind of experience we want to give people at the restaurant,” Chen added. The stage is set in the softly lit dining room with sage green tones and peekaboo book shelves. An alum of multiple Michelin star restaurants, Lin showcases standout dishes that change with the seasons from comforting creamed collards with roasted garlic and robiola cheese to an ethereal risotto with crème fraîche, stracchino and fresh hearts of palm. Snag a seat at the chef ’s counter and you can watch the culinary memories the couple wants to share come to life. But at any table, expect an intimate evening—and at some point, a visit from Chen, who often stops by to share a story and make sure you feel at home.

9650 NE FOX LANE DUNDEE www.artistblockwine.com

3832 NE SANDY BLVD. PORTLAND www.xiaoyepdx.com

144 LITHIA WAY ASHLAND www.lithialoft.com

ARTIST BLOCK

MARCH | APRIL 2024

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farm to table

28 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

farm to table

Farm to Table

Oregon’s Succulent Shrimp Industry Good things come in small packages when it comes to Oregon pink shrimp

Third-generation fisherman Nick Edwards’ boat, the Carter Jon, heads into Newport.

Shawn Linehan

written by Julie Lee PINK SHRIMP are found from Southeast Alaska to San Diego but are most abundant off the coast of Oregon. In fact, 65 to 75 percent of these seafood dynamos are fished in Oregon, making it the state’s second-highest species caught behind Dungeness crab. Shrimp dwell deep in ocean waters, often down to 1,200 feet, and gather in muddy habitat beds during the day, ascending into the water column at night to feed. They’re a fascinating species—fast-growing and transforming sex from male to female after roughly eighteen months of a short-lived life that lasts approximately five years. Unlike other species of seafood in Oregon, pink shrimp can only be commercially fished, requiring trawlers equipped with bycatch reduction devices, and trawling is only allowed in federal waters. Oregon has set the global standard for the fishing and processing of shrimp. Called by many names in the market—pink cocktail shrimp, bay shrimp, salad shrimp, coldwater shrimp—the official scientific name is Pandalus jordani. Health benefits are abundant; shrimp is low in calories, high in protein and contains selenium, which is important for heart and thyroid health. Third-generation fisherman Nick Edwards has been fishing commercially since he was 11 years old, and though he set sights on attending college, the money was so good working on a shrimp boat, he ended up pivoting, making fishing his lifelong career. He’s been in Coos Bay ever since, owning and operating various vessels, and settling down with his wife and four children. Life as a fisherman isn’t for the faint of heart. Fishing requires long hours, days and sometimes weeks away from family. “There aren’t a lot of Cinderella stories when it comes to fishing and marriage,” Edwards said. “They say, ‘Never name your boat after your wife’ for a reason!” Edwards and his wife, however, have been together forty-two years. What is the secret to their longevity, despite the efforts of industry? “We’re a team,” he said. “She got used to the fishing industry and became part of the business, helping with the bookkeeping and other things. It’s easy to go out and get seafood compared to running a household with four children,” he laughed. “As my grandfather used to say, ‘If you ain’t got family, you ain’t got anything.’” He named his current 80-foot trawler after his youngest son, Carter Jon. Colleague Scott Adams agrees with Edwards’ assessment of the challenges at sea for fishermen: “Fishing is dangerous, hard work. I’ve lost a lot of good friends over MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 29

the years.” He likens the industry to gambling. “This last year was a hard one. It’s been a push with shrimp for the past couple of years.” Adams started at Hallmark Fisheries in Charleston, Oregon, in 1976. Hallmark is one of the largest seafood production facilities on the Southern Oregon Coast, and Charleston serves as a homeport for a large fleet of trawlers and trollers. He’s fished for shrimp since his beginning days, eventually giving up the grueling hours at sea to run processing and stay closer to home and family. He’s proud of the increase in production at Hallmark over his years, with doubled output. “We compete against the other shrimp out there,” Adams said. “There’s a big difference with pink shrimp. The industry has shrunk tremendously. There are millions of farmed shrimps now, and ours is harder to sell against the bigger shrimp. Consumers don’t [usually] think ‘this small, sweet shrimp from Oregon is really good’—they just see the price and size. Covid killed us. Everything but seafood has gone up in price since the pandemic. It’s a value proposition.” There are other pending threats to the industry, one of the most concerning being the federal government’s pitch to build floating wind turbines off the coast of Coos Bay and Brookings. The construction and placement of these turbines could greatly impact the industry in unforeseen ways, and Edwards is an educated voice of concern that the ecosystem could hinge unbalanced by the unintended consequences of offshore wind. Another roller coaster ride in the shrimp industry is weather. “El Niño is happening right now, and jordani are affected,” said Edwards. “We’ve seen three (of these weather events) since 1979, and we don’t yet know the extent of how this one will affect us. El Niños are very detrimental.” Adams concurred: “Weather plays a big factor. When El Niño brings in warm water, shrimp disappear. They just flat out go. You must wait until they come back; they aren’t there to be caught.” Despite its many challenges, both Adams and Edwards find the fishing industry equally rewarding. “The lifestyle on the ocean is completely different—it’s special” Edwards said. “Humpbacks come up to the boat and blow, and it is just amazing.” He is proud that the USDA purchased more than 33 million pink shrimp this year, which means school children throughout the country can enjoy pink shrimp from Oregon. The industry’s record of sustainability is another bonus. Oregon’s pink shrimp industry is renowned for its sustainability practices, with fishermen and management working together to maximize catch and minimize bycatch. Fine mesh is used on trawlers, and bycatch rates (the accidental capture of nontargeted species) are typically less than 5 percent. Oregon’s pink shrimp fishery was certified sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council in 2007, the first shrimp fishery to achieve certification. “Shrimp is one of the most sustainable fisheries we have,” said Adams. “They are caught by size. The shrimp themselves have their own survival techniques. You see them change from male to female, then they have a gazillion babies. They gather together, and that’s when we catch them. It’s a clean fishery, and nets are sized so smaller shrimp can escape, which makes a huge difference with 30 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Pacific Seafood

farm to table

Fishermen process pink shrimp on the Oregon Coast.

sustainability.” He said quality is important to them. “We make money on the quality of our product,” he said. “We look to quality over quantity.” Another thing that keeps Edwards passionate about the shrimp industry is the opportunity to travel. He’s fished from the Canadian to the Mexican borders and serves on the International Cold Water Prawn Forum, an organization composed of processors, fishermen, scientists and individuals that promote the benefits of cold-water prawns. Edwards was the first fisherman from the United States to be on the board. “It’s been amazing for me to represent the pink shrimp industry around the world,” said Edwards. “I’ve made friends from all over who now visit me in Coos Bay. The networking is great, meeting so many people along the way. This is something I love to do, promote shrimp.” Local consumption of seafood is a movement right now, and Adams is all about it. “I wish more people would eat shrimp locally,” he said. “It’s such a great product! There is no waste, no bones, no fat, and it’s a great source of protein.” Edwards’ favorite way to enjoy pink shrimp is very simple, on a shrimp salad. “I’m kind of a foodie,” he said. “I love to cook. I make the world’s greatest (Oregon Dungeness) crab melt.” “I’m kind of a shrimp cocktail person myself,” Adams said. “They are so delicious, so sweet. I’ll just stand there on the dock eating them fresh from the ocean. But I also love a grilled cheese-andshrimp sandwich with tomato soup.” Other ways to enjoy Oregon pink shrimp range from simple to sublime. For a fresh spring salad that’s easy and fast to fix, assemble a Shrimp Louie, one of the specialties at The Crabby Oyster in Seaside. Oregon Culinary Ambassador Chef Leif Benson combines the best of Oregon seafood with his Oregon Pink Shrimp and Oregon Dungeness Crab Summer Roll with Nước Chấm Dipping Sauce. And Chef Paul Grossi of Redfish in Port Orford provides a unique spin on shrimp cakes, with an aromatic twist using lemon and lime zest and a delicious mango salsa topping.

Our attractions are always open.

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farm to table

Oregon Pink Shrimp Cakes with Mango Salsa.

Oregon Recipes

All Aboard the Shrimp Boat! Oregon Pink Shrimp Cakes with Mango Salsa Redfish / PORT ORFORD Chef Paul Grossi SERVES 4 FOR THE SHRIMP CAKES • 1½ cups yellow onion, minced • 1/4 cup carrot, minced • 1/4 cup celery, minced • 1/4 cup yellow bell pepper, minced • 1/4 cup red bell pepper, minced • 3-4 large garlic cloves, minced • 1 ounce ginger, minced (one thumbsized piece) • 2 pounds Oregon pink shrimp • 1 cup green onions, finely chopped • 1 jalapeño, minced • 1 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped

• 3 eggs, whipped • 2 lemons, zested and juiced (combine zest and juice to soften zest and release oils)* • 3-5 cups panko breadcrumbs • Salt and pepper to taste • Olive oil for sautéing *Chef tip: Roll the citrus between the palm of your hand and the cutting board to help release more oils and juice from the citrus. FOR THE MANGO SALSA • 3 cups diced frozen mango (thawed) • 1/2 cup red onion, small diced • 1/2 cup Roma tomatoes, small diced • 1/4 cup green onion, finely chopped • 2 limes, zested and juiced (combine zest and juice to soften zest and release oils) • Salt and pepper to taste

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FOR THE SHRIMP CAKES In a large sauté pan, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Once the oil is hot, add onions, carrots, celery and peppers. Sauté until the mixture softens and becomes aromatic. Add the garlic and ginger and continue to sweat the mixture until is almost dry. Spread mixture on a sheet pan or plate and place in the refrigerator to cool completely. Once the mixture is cool, combine the veggie mix with the shrimp, green onion, jalapeño, parsley, whipped eggs and lemon juice/zest mix. Add salt and pepper to taste, and combine the mixture thoroughly. (Chef tip: Use a partial kneading style to make sure excess moisture is incorporated thoroughly.) Add in 2 cups of panko breadcrumbs and mix thoroughly. Add panko as needed for consistency (depending on the use of fresh or frozen pink shrimp, fresh will be less moist). You want the mix to be moist but not soggy. Form a cake in your hand to confirm consistency. Let the mix sit covered in the refrigerator for a few hours to ensure full hydration of the breadcrumbs and to make the mixture firm. Once the mixture is set, portion the cakes by gently rolling in the remaining panko to lightly coat the cakes. Place the cakes on a cookie sheet and cover with plastic wrap back in the refrigerator. FOR THE MANGO SALSA Mix all ingredients thoroughly, and let sit in the refrigerator covered until needed. TO ASSEMBLE In a large sauté pan, heat enough oil on medium-high heat that the depth of the oil is about 1/8 inch when hot and shimmering. Carefully add the shrimp cakes without overcrowding. Once the cakes are in the pan, continue to cook on medium-high heat, watching to make sure they don’t burn. Once they are golden-brown, flip the cakes and place them in a 350-degree oven for 8 minutes, until golden-brown and a thermometer reads 160 degrees. Remove cakes and place them on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Plate shrimp cakes 1-2 per person with a healthy spoonful of mango salsa on top, and serve.

farm to table

Oregon Pink Shrimp and Oregon Dungeness Crab Summer Roll with Nước Chấm Dipping Sauce.

Oregon Pink Shrimp and Oregon Dungeness Crab Summer Roll with Nước Chấm Dipping Sauce

SERVES 4

• 1 tablespoon jalapeño, minced • 1 clove garlic, minced • 1/8 cup fish sauce • 1/8 cup lime juice • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1/8 cup cilantro, chopped • 1/4 cup water

FOR THE ROLLS • 1 cup Oregon pink shrimp • 1 cup Oregon Dungeness crab • 6 English cucumber sticks • 1 cup carrots, julienned • 1 cup red or green cabbage, shredded • ½ cup cilantro, chopped • ¼ cup basil leaves, julienned • 2 tablespoons mint leaves, julienned • 1 cup rice noodles, soaked • 6-8 sheets rice paper

FOR THE ROLLS Soak rice noodles in hot water until tender and drain. Mix all ingredients except for rice paper. Moisten rice paper per package instructions and lay flat on cutting board. Arrange other ingredients across the center of the rice paper, leaving edges open. Roll the rice paper over ingredients as tight as possible, tuck over the edges and finish rolling over until a tight roll is formed. Cover with a damp paper towel until serving.

FOR THE NƯỚC CHẤM DIPPING SAUCE • 1 Thai chili, minced (or to taste)

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE Combine all ingredients, and serve with rolls.

Chef Leif Benson, Oregon’s Culinary Ambassador

Oregon Pink Shrimp Louie Salad

The Crabby Oyster / SEASIDE SERVES 1 • 4 ounces Oregon pink shrimp • 1/2 cucumber, sliced • 1/2 cup sliced black olives • 1 egg, hard boiled and sliced • 1 tomato, sliced • 2 cups lettuce, torn • Thousand Island dressing Layer all ingredients on a plate. Serve with your favorite Thousand Island dressing.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 33

farm to table

Oregon Pink Shrimp Skagen SERVES 4 FOR THE SHRIMP SALAD • ¼ cup mayonnaise • ¼ cup crème fraîche • 1 tablespoon minced shallot • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard • 2 tablespoons chopped dill • 16 ounces cooked and cooled Oregon pink shrimp, drained • Kosher salt and pepper to taste FOR THE SANDWICH • 3 tablespoons chopped capers, drained • 1 tablespoon chopped parsley • 1 teaspoon chopped dill • ½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil • 8½-inch slices of rustic-style bread (Note: I prefer a dark Danish rye. If the bread is square, cut it diagonal into triangles for style points.) • 6 tablespoons butter, softened for spreading on the bread FOR THE SHRIMP SALAD Whisk mayonnaise, crème fraîche, shallot, mustard and dill together in a medium bowl. Carefully fold in shrimp. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill for 30 minutes. (The longer the salad chills, the more water will come out of the shrimp, thus diluting the salad.) FOR THE SANDWICH Combine capers, parsley, dill, lemon zest and olive oil in a small bowl. Set aside. Butter both sides of each slice of bread. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add half of the bread slices, and toast on both sides until golden-brown and crispy. Remove from the skillet and set aside. Repeat with remaining bread slices. Transfer the bread triangles to a serving platter. Top each with a generous spoonful of the shrimp salad and a small dollop of the caper/herb mixture. Garnish with dill sprigs. Serve immediately with lemon wedges. This sandwich makes a perfect lunch or al fresco dinner. It pairs perfectly with Oregon pinot gris.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Oregon Pink Shrimp Skagen, a Swedish take on a pivotal seafood.

Homegrown Chef

Detlef Schrempf written by Thor Erickson | photography by Tambi Lane WHEN THINKING of Oregon pink shrimp, one can’t help also thinking of Detlef Schrempf, the former forward for the Portland Trail Blazers. In his short time with the team, Schrempf played a pivotal role in the success of the Blazers. His ability to adapt to various positions and make crucial plays on the court made him an invaluable asset. Like Schrempf, Oregon pink shrimp can be used in many ways. As a cocktail or salad shrimp, the briny freshness takes center court. Pink shrimp scores big if used as the main ingredient in a chowder or pasta. Like Schrempf, pink shrimp is best used while in season at the peak of freshness. Here is a recipe for a Euro-inspired, open-faced sandwich that best showcases the key flavor of Oregon pink shrimp.

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A glass-enclosed bridge connects the addition to the original home.

Home + Design

Rising to the Challenge An architect designs a personal addition to his Portland home: an 825-square-foot tower made of cross-laminated timber written by Melissa Dalton EVERYTHING ABOUT Randy McGee’s century-old bungalow is typical for its time and place. Originally built in 1927 in Portland’s Northwest neighborhood, the interior layout is just 832 square feet, with two bedrooms, one bath and a petite front porch. It’s the kind of house called “adorable” in real estate listings. McGee and his wife, Lori Warner, bought it in 1999. They loved its proximity to Forest Park for her runs, the neighbors and that it’s an easy bike commute to his job at ZGF, a renowned architecture firm downtown. As the family grew, the couple renovated the basement, but by their two children’s adolescence, needed more space. They considered their options. No one wanted to move, and a teardown didn’t feel right. “We loved the little house,” said McGee. “It fits in the neighborhood really well, and we knew we’d disrupt the neighbors if we tore it down.” He realized he could get the extra space with a less-than-typical addition: a slender three-story, 825-square-foot tower appended to the bungalow’s rear and connected by a glass-enclosed bridge. 36 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Photos: Pete Eckert/Eckert & Eckert Architectural Photography

Portland’s first CLT home construction, a threestory tower addition.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 37

Pete Eckert/Eckert & Eckert Architectural Photography

home + design

The first floor interior has an adjunct kitchen for entertaining and bike storage.

Of course, the site had challenges. The bungalow is on a small lot—3,000 square feet to Portland’s average of 5,000 square feet—which limited the footprint. The surrounding buildings are all bigger and taller, casting shadows on the back and side yards. Then there’s the matter of the neighborhood: with so many early-1900s homes on the block, McGee didn’t want to disturb the character. By rising up and stacking the rooms, the tower maximizes the available space and accesses more light and views as it ascends, without impinging on the neighbors. McGee designed the top floor to cantilever over the bungalow roof, then lined it with windows to capture city panorama and Forest Park. From the sidewalk, the tower just peaks around the house, its metal exterior and angled roofline offering playful modern contrast to the bungalow’s traditional details. For construction, McGee was inspired by his work. First, a 20,000-square-foot, 30-barrel brewhouse for Great Notion Brewing, which uses cross-laminated timber for the roof and walls. 38 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Also, McGee is a lead designer on the ZGF team reinventing the Portland International Airport with mass timber. “I thought, ‘If I’m going to be an architect talking about mass timber, I should do my own house,’” said McGee. The only problem? His would be the first CLT single-family residence permitted in the city, meaning going this route was an experiment. “It had never been done in Portland,” said McGee. “It was a risk.” Per the Engineered Wood Association, cross-laminated timber, or CLT, is a large-scale, prefabricated, solid engineered wood panel that poses many advantages over traditional building materials like concrete, steel and heavy timber. Namely, it is quicker and easier to install, generates less-to-no waste, and is more sustainable if sourced from well-managed forests. “If you can manage the forest sustainably, it’s a never-ending resource,” said McGee. “It’s when you mow it down that you can’t do that.” CLT first gained acceptance as a building material in Europe in the aughts, and has been gaining popularity stateside more recently, as building codes catch up.

“I thought, ‘If I’m going to be an architect talking about mass timber, I should do my own house.’”

Pete Eckert/Eckert & Eckert Architectural Photography Randy McGee

For his project, McGee teamed up with Craig Totten, a structural engineer at KPFF, and Russ Brotnov, CEO of Carpentry Plus, the latter whom he’d worked with on Great Notion and many ensuing mass timber projects. Carpentry Plus was started by Russ’ father in 1993, and has become an early adopter of working with CLT and mass timber, recently finishing such high-profile, large-scale projects as the Tillamook Creamery and PAE Living Building in Portland. “We just hit it off,” said McGee. “I was thinking about this project. I talked to him about it, and he said, ‘Sure, I could do a house.’” While permitting with the city was protracted due to the pandemic and the new material—“It was a fluid process of getting approvals,” said McGee—after the foundation was poured, the structure itself went up in four days. Brotnov’s crew parked a crane in front of the bungalow and hoisted the CLT panels over the roof, maneuvering around electrical lines and neighboring buildings, not unlike a game of Operation. McGee likens the look of the CLT panel assemblage to a “house of cards.” “It looks like a house of cards, but it’s exactly the opposite of that,” said Brotnov. “You could pick that thing up by the roof and pull the foundation out of the ground, roll it down the hill and stand it back up. And it would all be just fine.” Inside, the exposed CLT panels are both structure and interior finish for a seamless look throughout. McGee finished much of the interiors himself, from building the window screens, to hanging the sliding doors, tiling the bathroom and fabricating furniture. The bottom floor “adjunct” kitchen makes for easy entertaining in the backyard in summer, and has a closet for McGee’s bikes. Up the stairs where the glass bridge connects at a landing is the bedroom and bathroom. Then at the top, there are two desks used by the family and a lounge with couches and TV. This makes the building flexible, alternatively ready for guests, a quiet spot to work or a teenage hang. Since completing the tower in 2021, McGee has come to see the project as being about more than the extra space. It’s an exercise in understanding where our building resources come from and being a better steward, not only to the environment via sustainable forestry practices, but the communities around these forests, especially as he seeks to source mass timber products for his work within the state. “This is a teaching and a learning tool for me,” said McGee. “And I always wanted to build a tower.”

Pete Eckert/Eckert & Eckert Architectural Photography

— Randy McGee, homeowner and architect

FROM TOP Stairs lead to extra space that is a quiet working area. On the second level, McGee designed an additional bedroom and bathroom. The top floor has views and a sense of privacy.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

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home + design

DIY

MATERIALS AND DIMENSIONS This project is composed of basic hardware store finds, including 2x4s for the base at the top and bottom, 1x4s for the stringer supports and 1x8s for the side rails. Four caster wheels are used for the bottom for mobility. A note about the tabletop: Choose the tabletop material according to desired function. For a more durable table, use metal or wood, the latter being the most economical choice. If the table won’t be exposed to heavy use, dents or scratches from tools, perhaps find a piece of stone slab from a remnant yard, and build the table to fit its dimensions. Just keep in mind its weight and that it will need adhesive and possibly a wood underlayment to attach the stone to the base. For the purpose of this explainer, the table dimensions are 28 inches deep, 48 inches wide, and 36 inches tall.

Build Your Own Rolling Table THIS PROJECT, much like Randy McGee’s Portland tower, is versatile. Use it as a worktable in a shop, or a standing desk in an office. Just add stools, and it becomes an informal eating or serving counter in a kitchen. The casters allow the table to be moved around, but do make sure to get ones with a locking mechanism so it will also stay put when needed. Add storage at the bottom with a shelf, or not. Really, the versatile nature of this project means it can be as simple, or complex, as desired.

MATERIALS 2x4s: 28” boards x 4

Caster wheels: 4

1x8s: 31-32” boards x 2

Tabletop: 28”x 48”

1x4s: 48” boards x 4

ADD STRINGER SUPPORTS The stringers are added for cross support at the top and bottom. Cut four pieces from the 1x4s, measuring 48 inches long each. For the bottom, align one 1x4 on either side of the 1x8, resting atop the 2x4, which should be on the outside. Make sure all ends are flush. Secure stringers to the legs. Flip it over and repeat, so that there are now top and bottom horizontal supports. FINISH WITH TABLETOP AND CASTERS Align the tabletop with the base and secure it with screws, if using wood. Add casters to the bottom 2x4 on each end.

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Illustration: Allison Bye

1 BUILD THE LEGS The table has two sides, each of which looks like a capital I in serif font, meaning there’s a crossbar at the top and bottom, and a center piece. Cut four pieces of a 2x4 to 28 inches long. Cut two pieces of the 1x8 to 31 to 32 inches, assuming the casters are about 3 inches tall and depending on the tabletop thickness. Center each 1x8 on a 2x4, and attach with wood screws and glue. (This will give the table an “exposed hardware” look.)

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home + design

Wood Goods Ditch the cracked, plastic dish under your nearest plant and elevate it instead with this Teak Planter Stand from Rejuvenation. Made of high-quality teak for use inside or out, its delightful globe-footed design is both durable and fun. www.rejuvenation.com Kevin Poest is the master craftsman and woodturner behind Poest Wood, producing the curving forms of everything from stairway newel posts and custom bowls, to these pepper mills. Made from salvaged city trees and available in two heights, they’re a streamlined and sustainable take on a tabletop staple. www.poestswood.com

The Good Mod started in Spencer Staley’s garage as a vintage furniture restoration gig and has since bloomed into a multidisciplinary studio in a 20,000-square-foot loft in Portland. The vintage finds are still there, as is a collection of custom furniture and goods designed and made in-house, like this CNC routed topographical map of Oregon that was a collaborative project with Open Studio Collective for The Nature Conservancy. www.thegoodmod.com

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Bring Spring home with

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artist in residence

Food for Thought At writing desk or sorting table, Jaclyn Moyer applies herself equally written and photographed by Daniel O’Neil 44 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Jaclyn Moyer at home in Corvallis, where reading and children entertain.

artist in residence

BALANCE COMES naturally to Jaclyn Moyer, although she’s always in pursuit of such a state. Her prose weaves personal reflection with fact-checked inquiry as thoughts circulate between her inner world and the one around her. Moyer’s work ethic and her creative and observational powers fill pages, yet they also extend into fields at first glance unrelated, like farming, baking, seed gathering and mothering. On Gold Hill, Moyer’s first book, arranges her talents into one. Moyer never set out to write her memoir. The book came together, so to speak, organically. Seeking to understand her family history, in particular the stories related to her mother’s native Punjab, Moyer penned essays. Living as a vegetable farmer, she wrote about farming. Over the course of a decade these pages started to intersect. “I was deeply examining my memories and the memoir elements, and then figuring out what those revealed about society, the food movement and other things,” Moyer said. “I would go back and forth between the two, seeing what I could learn about the greater world from examining these personal experiences.” Moyer had always found interest in how places shape people and how people shape places. Her time spent farming developed those questions and encouraged a deeper understanding. Working the land enriched her writing, and vice versa. Just as external forces like weather and soil influence how crops grow, Moyer’s investigative research and conversations with others helped define her book. “So much of writing for me is about learning to be patient and not try to control it, to trust that the process will pan out in whatever way.” Farming requires intuition and an attentive eye, two innate characteristics of Moyer’s that also guide her writing. Her friend and former teacher, Eugene-based author Debra Gwartney, finds a suite of traits in Moyer. “Jackie is very quiet, which I have really come to love because you can see that she’s turned inward and really thinking,” Gwartney said. “She’s also discerning and deeply curious, a forager who is going to turn over the soil and turn over these rocks and see what she finds. To go along with Jackie, with her book, is a voyage of discovery.” Moyer’s curiosity has led her through farming, through histories of family and food and India, and through related pursuits like crafting essays and baking bread. In all of these her creative spirit finds expression. Other aspects of Moyer’s life absorb this impulse, including daily life in Corvallis where she, her partner and their two children live on three acres. “My domestic life feels to me like an important part of my creative life,” Moyer said. “I don’t grow food or bake bread for a living anymore, but a huge part of my time still goes to those tasks and to raising children. Domestic endeavors are not very valued in our culture, but I think they’re as valuable and definitely as creative as the work that I do as a writer.” Without activities like baking bread or gathering native seed for plant nurseries, Moyer might outthink her intuition. Time away from her writing desk provides both pause and balance. “It’s nice to have these very physical, almost repetitive tasks that help your

body move thoughts through,” Moyer said. “Something about the motion, the repetitive motion and the focus, it stills a part of your brain. The focus is on these hand motions and that allows another part of your brain to free up. I feel like those kinds of things are good counterbalances to the thinking world.” Finding equilibrium forms part of Moyer’s essence. Debra Gwartney admires Moyer’s approach to baking bread and what that says about Moyer the writer. “She’s not like the rest of us who put a few ingredients in a pot and make a loaf of bread,” Gwartney said. “It’s an art to Jackie, and it is truly a reflection of her innovation and this way she has of really thinking about how disparate parts come together and make a whole.” In On Gold Hill, Moyer carefully explains issues like global farming and the food industry without making judgments. Gwartney appreciates this. “Jackie doesn’t tell the reader how to feel about any of this. She presents the material and lets us feel for ourselves. That is very hard to do. She’s truly curious as a narrator, and we get to be curious with her.” Moyer’s balance in life and art lies in the constant practice of complementary actions. She cannot devote herself to writing without also devoting herself to something else. “Sometimes if I’m doing a lot of journalism or I’m spending most of my time writing, I do start to feel a pull, like I need to get back to harvesting seed,” Moyer said. “It makes for a richer perspective for me to operate in different worlds.”

Moyer’s writing set-up is quite simple. Her book On Gold Hill publishes in March.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

STARTUP 48 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 50 MY WORKSPACE 52

pg. 52 Master printer Judith Baumann collaborates with artists at Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts.

Tim Mustoe

GAME CHANGER 54

The power tool for curious minds.

startup

Grapes are harvested at an Oregon winery. Oregon’s wine industry is on the rebound after wildfires and the pandemic brought challenges.

“It is more rare to hear of a winery closing than it is to hear of a winery opening. The American dream of buying just a few acres, planting grapes and making wine is still alive and attainable in Oregon.” — Sally Murdoch, Oregon Wine Board spokesperson

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

startup

Neither Frost Nor Wildfires The Oregon wine industry is back in action—and growing

Carolyn Wells-Kramer/Oregon Wine Board

written by Grant Stringer IT’S BEEN a weird few years for Oregon winemakers, but the industry is getting its legs back. Winemaking was clobbered by the pandemic. Then, major wildfires ignited in western Oregon in 2020 thanks to a combination of hot, dry and windy conditions around Labor Day. These fires enveloped the region in thick smoke, putting agricultural workers at risk. And, the smoke tainted wine grapes themselves. Oregon’s wine industry posted a dramatic 30 percent drop in production that year. But Oregon winemakers rebounded remarkably well in 2021 and 2022, the last years that official data is available, and some vintners say their 2023 vintages will be exquisite. Wine production climbed to almost 115,000 tons in 2021, which climatologist and winemaker Greg Jones considers to be the normal level of production for Oregon. After the 2022 season kicked off stressfully with a sudden spring frost, production then increased to almost 140,000 tons—a “miraculous” recovery, Jones said. Meanwhile, Oregon sales of wine cases increased substantially, and new vineyards seem to be popping up everywhere. “It is more rare to hear of a winery closing than it is to hear of a winery opening,” said Sally Murdoch, a spokesperson for the Oregon Wine Board, which represents the more than 800 wineries in Oregon. “The American dream of buying just a few acres, planting grapes and making wine is still alive and attainable in Oregon.” While Oregon accounts for just 2 percent of national wine production, Murdoch said the industry is growing in strength while vintners work with each other to adapt to climate change and other challenges. She cited a Travel Oregon report that wineries are a major attraction for tourists visiting the Beaver State, as well as data suggesting that the industry is becoming a juggernaut with higher-quality wine than nearby California and Washington.

Climate and weather patterns are extremely important for wine growers. One grape variety that is otherwise well suited for Oregon’s wet weather and hot, dry summers might wither on the vine in unusual weather. Murdoch said grapes and the wine industry are closely tied to climate in this way. The pinot noir grape grows “perfectly” in Oregon, she said, and is often planted in new vineyards. It’s a tough grape to grow, however, because of its thick skin and propensity to absorb scents around it—including wildfire smoke, which can make wine taste burnt or like cough medicine. Climate change has ushered in a new era of unstable weather and threatened winemakers. The 2022 frost proved freezing temperatures could kill vineyards in late April—“a new phenomenon,” Murdoch said. Winemakers, however, discovered a counterintuitive measure to protect their crops: watering their vines before a frost, which insulated buds in 32-degree ice instead of colder air, Murdoch said. Like many Oregonians, winemakers are also preparing for more wildfires and taking new steps to reduce fire risks on their properties. Meanwhile, the industry is trying to figure out how to slash its own greenhouse gas emissions. Murdoch said most of the industry’s emissions probably come from the glass used in bottles, which is usually produced in China and is carbon-intensive. “We simply don’t recycle glass enough,” she said, adding that 30 percent of wine bottles are recycled in the U.S., compared to 70 percent in Europe. Murdoch said winemakers are also exploring how to regenerate soils for the long-term, which is an important tool in agriculture broadly. And at least one vintner has started using an electric tractor, which are being debuted in small models in vineyards, blueberry farms and the like across North America.

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what i’m working on

Hikers on the Mosier Plateau Trail in the Columbia River Gorge.

Connecting the Puzzle A massive trail loop in the Columbia River Gorge could be coming soon written by Grant Stringer PICTURE THIS: You’ve backpacked 30 miles on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge and finally arrived in Stevenson for a burger and a beer. Or, you’ve biked from Hood River to The Dalles, on the Oregon side, to check out new coffee shops along the way. Experiences like these are all part of a plan, as the Forest Service and a local nonprofit take on an ambitious goal: connecting 50 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

all of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area with a 200-mile trail. The trail scheme is already 80 percent complete. That means you can already hike and bike clear from Corbett to The Dalles in one fell swoop. The project, Gorge Towns to Trails, is the brainchild of Renée Tkach of the nonprofit Friends of the Columbia Gorge. It’s Tkach’s job to fill in gaps on the trail system and help build trails and infrastructure to support the trekkers of tomorrow. “It’s like a big puzzle,” she said. “And it is a lot of fun.” But there are big holes in the project, she said. The Washington side of the Gorge, which begins on the western side in Washougal and ends in Dallesport, is chock-full of private land tracts. The primary way to build new trail is to try to purchase

what i’m working on

Amy Wade/Friends of the Columbia Gorge

The project, Gorge Towns to Trails, is the brainchild of Renée Tkach of the nonprofit Friends of the Columbia Gorge. It’s Tkach’s job to fill in gaps on the trail system and help build trails and infrastructure to support the trekkers of tomorrow. “It’s like a big puzzle,” she said. “And it is a lot of fun.”

the land. That can be slow work if a land owner is negotiating with other buyers or doesn’t want to sell to begin with. Short of that, Tkach works with partner organizations like the U.S. Forest Service to try to connect trails that already exist. In the biggest gap on the trail system, between Washougal and Stevenson, the Forest Service operates some trails, but they’re not part of a unified east-west trail system. Tkach said she made progress in recent months, however, with a new Forest Service partnership focused on new dirt trail between Mosier and The Dalles. Currently, cyclists can only bike between the two Oregon communities on a historic highway. There’s not an official route for hikers in the idyllic grasslands that overlook the Gorge. Droves of hikers use an unofficial trail

on a stretch called Memaloose Hills during wildflower season, but they’ve caused terrible congestion on the roads below—a familiar tale for Gorge hikes that have become too popular for their own good. Tkach and the Forest Service are beginning to hold listening sessions with residents in English and Spanish and sketch out new trail infrastructure. Her hope is that official trails will bring new visitors to towns like Mosier and The Dalles that don’t enjoy the tourism of nearby Hood River. Most visitors stop at Hood River when traveling east from Portland, she said, and Towns to Trails might be able to put them on the map. “It’s not the silver bullet for economic development, but it gets it on the map as a destination for recreation access,” Tkach said. She has a good case study under her belt. When tiny Mosier, population 400, was connected with Towns to Trails, locals were able to open a grocery store, coffee shop and a restaurant. That’s a familiar story for similar trail networks across the country as planners scramble to keep up with the massive, national demand for outdoor access. Notable new trail projects include the Great American Rail-Trail, a mostly connected network of safe paths from Washington, D.C., to the Pacific Ocean on the Olympic Peninsula. Tkach said she’s taken inspiration from the Great Allegheny Passage, a famed cycling route between Pennsylvania and Maryland. MORE ONLINE

To learn more about Gorge Towns to Trails, visit www.gorgefriends.org

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my workspace

Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts A creative pathway to artistic development for the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla written by Joni Kabana photography by Tim Mustoe

Baumann collaborates with invited artists (both experienced and inexperienced) to create and sell on behalf of the artist limited-edition, hand-printed fine art lithographs. Unlike reproductions of existing artwork, these prints are originals.

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Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts, established as a nonprofit in 1992 by celebrated artists James Lavadour (Walla Walla) and Phillip Cash Cash (Cayuse and Nez Perce), is a true gem of an organization in Oregon. According to master printer and studio director Judith Baumann, their mission is to “provide a creative conduit for educational, social and economic opportunities for Native Americans through artistic development,” which is portrayed via their traditional art classes, gallery exhibits and artist residencies.

my workspace

The gallery exhibits prints made on-site by artists in residence over the past twenty-three years. “If you’re lucky enough to stop by while we’re printing on press, you can watch the printing process unfold,” Baumann said. A public reception is held at the end of each artist’s residency where proofs made by artists during their time in the studio can be previewed.

“I consider the work I’m creating at Crow’s Shadow as my life’s work,” Baumann said. “It’s an honor and a privilege to work with such luminary artists as Wendy Red Star, Dyani White Hawk, Natalie Ball and Raven Chacon among so many other talents and visionaries.” The work she has collaborated on and produced at Crow’s Shadow has been collected by the Whitney, Boston MFA, Yale University and the Smithsonian, among many other institutions and collections. “I love working so closely with artists, making their artistic visions come true, and helping sell their work all over the country.”

LEARN MORE

For more information, visit www.crowsshadow.org or follow Crow’s Shadow on social media.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

game changer Runners in the Cascade Lakes Relay are beginning to rejoin the ranks after a pandemic lull.

Running for Small Communities Cascade Relays

After wildfires and the pandemic, Central Oregon relays nonprofit maps a comeback written by James Sinks

FOR YEARS, the Cascade Relays Foundation enjoyed a winning formula. As teams of sweaty runners zigzagged through Central Oregon each August for the Cascade Lakes Relay race, they’d bring energy, happy vibes and their wallets. And each year, part of the money raised would help buoy partner organizations and school groups in communities along the 216-mile race route. As the race grew in popularity from its first edition in 2008, the donations did, too. Buoyed by that success, a second Central Oregon race, the one-day Bend Beer Chase relay, bubbled up a decade ago. For both races, nonprofit groups can get paid for staffing handoff exchange points along the routes, and also are able to set up fundraising booths. Over time, donations from the races added up to more than about half a million dollars to some thirty nonprofits, and the 54

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foundation was created in 2016 to manage the charitable activities. Among the beneficiaries: Gilchrist High School athletics, the La Pine Lions Club and the Silver Lake Rural Fire Protection District in northern Lake County. The foundation also helped to stage local events like the I Like Pie Thanksgiving race, a fundraiser for the Boys & Girls Club of Bend, with pie waiting at the finish line. Everybody was happy. But then the fates threw the operation a curve. Twice. First, increasing wildfires and choking smoke made the marquee Cascade Lakes Relay increasingly inhospitable, and untenable, for a race that zigzags from Diamond Lake through dry forests and into the similarly dry high desert. Teams started dropping out, and as participation thinned, there wasn’t as much money to donate to the community groups who both made the race

This summer, Baker City, Oregon welcomes home Western artist Gary Ernest Smith to host his final retrospective event, “Towards Home: The Art of Gary Ernest Smith,” running May 24th to July 21st, 2024. Born and raised on a cattle ranch in Baker County, Gary Ernest Smith’s works draw inspiration from the people and landscapes that embody Eastern Oregon. Smith’s return to his roots will be one of the largest and most impactful events hosted in Baker County and will leave a lasting mark on its history. Experience Smith’s timeless representation of the resilient lifestyle expressed by his work one last time this summer at Crossroads Carnegie Art Center. Plan your visit, mark your calendars, and find out more at: www.crossroads-arts.org.

TRAVEL If you’ve never traveled to Baker County, Oregon, the time is now! From its rustic charm to its rich history, Baker County is not just a destination - it's an experience. With its cultural events, vibrant local arts, outdoor adventures, and delectable cuisines, the county is a testament to the spirit of the West. Experience Baker County and the “Towards Home” retrospective all at once when you plan your trip! Photos By Travel Baker County. Please Drink Responsibly.

BAKER

Photos: Cascade Relays

game changer

enjoyable, and depended on it economically, said Scott DouDuring the 2023 Hood to Coast Relay, he greeted runners in glass, chief executive officer of the relays and president of the a faux speakeasy with a deck and cool-down misting system, foundation’s three-member board. atop a van in the parking lot at the Oregon Museum of Science “We couldn’t compete with the changing climate that we and Industry in Portland, handing out Cascade Lakes-branded were seeing every year,” he said. cowbells and registration forms. Douglass and his wife, Carrie, launched the relays in 2008. The nonprofit is still donating money, albeit in lesser volThe two met in a youth group and were school classmates in umes than in its heyday. In 2023, it gave $85,000 to Central OrBend, and after leaving Central egon community groups, including Oregon they began dating in their $34,000 to the Boys & Girls Club 20s, married and moved back. Carfrom the Thanksgiving race. rie and Scott are busy. They are Yet for organizations who partraising two children, both are enner with the foundation, the most trepreneurs, Carrie is the elected important aspect has been that the chair of the Bend-La Pine School relay—which faced bleak prospects Board, and Scott is the chair of the not long ago—is still happening. Boys & Girls Club board. “When you are a small town and In 2019, the business was reeling an event like the relays comes in, — Jamie Roscoe, Silver Lake fire district from the fires, and then the panit is a big deal for everybody,” said board member demic began in 2020. Once a sellJamie Roscoe, a board member for out event that attracted 275 teams at its peak, Cascade Relays the Silver Lake fire district and also a former volunteer leader soon saw numbers plummet to less than half that. The Bend for the north Lake County 4-H swine club. Beer Chase suffered losses, too. The relays and the foundation pay some nonprofits directly Facing an existential crisis, the organization laid off three of for supplying staff for checkpoints, but the runners are also a its five staff and went into a forced comeback mode. The big- huge deal for businesses along the route, many of which see gest decision: It abandoned the established race calendar. For their biggest sales of the year on race day, he said. The fire disthe second time this year, the Bend Beer Chase will be in May trict makes about $2,000 for renting space to relay runners and the Cascade Lakes Relay will be in June, over the summer when they arrive in town, he said. solstice on June 21-22. All the communities on the route are rooting for the relays to Changing a weekend for a tourist-focused event is a dicey bounce all the way back, Roscoe said. business proposition. Scott Douglass, a relentless marketer, is “They’ve been really good to the community, and they are pounding the pavement to get teams to come back—and it’s great people to work with,” he said. “Their success is everyworking, slowly. body’s success.”

“When you are a small town and an event like the relays comes in, it is a big deal for everybody.”

ABOVE, FROM LEFT Cascade Relays raised $34,000 for the Boys & Girls Club of Bend through its I Like Pie Thanksgiving run in 2023. Participants dressed for the occasion during 2022’s Cascade Lakes Relay.

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An Oregon

WELLNESS QUEST DESTINATIONS TO REBOOT & RECHARGE THIS SPRING written by Jean Chen Smith

As the days start to get longer and temperatures increase, we find the early promise of spring in all its splendid glory—the lush trees, the vibrant yellows of daffodils and emerging green grass. Shedding our heavy layers of jackets, sweaters and boots, along with the primal instinct for hibernation, I know I’m ready to get out and travel. This time of year is my favorite for seeking wellness experiences. Health and well-being can look different for everyone, ranging from spa retreats to meditation gatherings. Why not take this year to redefine what it means to be whole and healthy? Try something new instead of taking the same type of journey year after year. I know for myself, new adventures are a great way to stimulate my senses and knock me out of the ordinary. Here is a list of my favorite destinations across our great state to provide you with a surge of energy and renewal.

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Book an AllInclusive Retreat

Spa-Focused Relaxation

OREGON WELLNESS RETREAT AND BAYBERRY INN | ASHLAND

These two organizations work in conjunction to host themed retreats for artists, couples, writers and solo travelers, along with those seeking some rest and relaxation. The all-inclusive retreats include lodging at the Bayberry Inn, a historic property dating back to 1854, and three gourmet meals a day, along with snacks and refreshments. The six beautifully appointed rooms are furnished with antiques and luxury bedding and linens. Some rooms have soaking tubs, sitting areas and patios. With pre-approval, select rooms are pet-friendly. Nestled in the heart of Ashland, the inn is just steps from the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and many shops and restaurants. Morning walks to Lithia Park are a great way to start your mornings. Retreats allow you to relax and reset, while meeting others on a similar journey. More: www.bayberryinn.com, www. oregonwellnessretreat.com

OVERLEAF LODGE & SPA | YACHATS

AT LEFT, FROM TOP The historic elegance of the Bayberry Inn of Ashland. Think gourmet and restful. (photo: Bayberry Inn) Stop by Ashland’s Lithia Park for your morning walk. (photo: Jeffrey McFarland) — AT RIGHT The jewel of Yachats, Overleaf Lodge & Spa brings together the lullaby of the sea, and the luxury of a sea salt scrub. (photo: Overleaf Lodge & Spa)

What could be better than a resort with spectacular ocean views, a tranquil spa and comfortable rooms? Book the Sunset Suite, which offers a plush king bed, large sitting area and whirlpool tub overlooking the breathtaking coastline. Cozy up near the fireplace with a glass of wine or hot chocolate as you settle in with a good book or cuddle with your significant other. This suite features a kitchenette with appliances for convenience. Guests are served a hearty breakfast of eggs, potatoes and sausage or bacon daily as part of their stay. The Overleaf Spa has soaking tubs to help alleviate sore muscles and tension from stress. They also feature saunas and steam rooms. Book a treatment with a seasoned therapist—the spa uses quality products from the Aveda line. I suggest booking the Reiki Refresh Energy Work if you are looking to experience something new. After your massage, sit in the relaxation room with some hot tea and reflect on your day. Located about a five-minute drive to Yachats State Recreation Area and close to the downtown area, visitors have ample access to trails and shopping. Pre-order a curated picnic basket prior to heading out on a light hike. You will not be disappointed by the bevy of nibble options. For those seeking to amp up their fitness, the hotel has a fitness center with cardio machines and weights. More: www. overleaflodge.com

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Visit a Working Ranch SILVIES VALLEY RANCH | SENECA

Being close to nature is a great way to slow down our busy minds and our media-focused lives. That is why Silvies Valley Ranch in Seneca is one of my favorite places to visit. The 140,000-acre working ranch offers golfing, dining and lodging in the heart of the Oregon frontier, with ample access to the natural world. They specialize in raising their breed of heritage beef, which is served at their restaurant. The land is composed of deeded and leased National Forest and BLM lands within the region. With more than 20,000 acres of ponderosa pine forest and meadows, the area is home to numerous critters, including elk, deer, antelope, coyotes, otters, hawks and eagles, to name a few. There are plenty of activities centered on health and wellness—choose from fishing, horseback riding, golfing, goat herding, hiking and biking. Be sure to book some time at Rocking Heart Spa, where you will find your stress melt away with the Medicine Springs Deep Tissue Massage. Rooms range from suites to log cabins with fireplaces and great rooms with high ceilings and plush sofas. Cabins are solar powered and sustainable, without sacrificing on modern luxuries such as TVs, jacuzzi tubs and well-appointed kitchens. Dining options do not disappoint here. The property has three full-service restaurants and options for picnics and takeout. A truly enjoyable experience is dinner at the Ranch Table, where you dine with other guests and farm hands, getting to know each other and bonding over the events of a day on the farm. More: www.silvies.us

AT LEFT Raw beauty meets golf and gourmet in the high desert’s Silvies Valley Ranch in eastern Oregon. (photo: Silvies Valley Ranch) — AT RIGHT, FROM TOP The beautiful, ancient monoliths at Cannon Beach make for a picturesque evening. (photo: Joni Kabana/ TravelOregon. com) Renowned the world over, Stephanie Inn has hosted many retreats from reality in the most tasteful fashion. (photo: Stephanie Inn) Stephanie Inn’s prix fixe, fourcourse dinner highlights seasonal local ingredients. (photo: Columbia Hospitality)

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A Culinary Experience to Remember STEPHANIE INN CANNON BEACH

This iconic inn sits just steps from the natural wonder of Haystack Rock, offering world-class dining and outof-this-world spa treatments. The resort recently completed a $1.3 million renovation on guest rooms and is ready to pamper guests. Neutral-toned rooms with pops of blue reflect coastal living at its finest. Gas

fireplaces, huge soaking tubs and luxurious mattresses and bedding are some of what you will find at the resort. Start your day off with a gourmet breakfast in the dining room, where healthy smoothies, fruit bowls and savory eggs and pancakes fuel you for a day of activity. Take a stroll on the beach and stop by downtown Cannon Beach, which is lined with boutiques and restaurants. We love visiting Fetch, which has tons of dog toys, treats and sweaters to bring home to our pup. No trip is complete without a stop at the Staghorn Mercantile, where you can

scope out some of the coolest items for your home. Book a spa treatment at the Stephanie Inn, where you can indulge and revel in sensory pleasures. The Lavender Body Melt, the spa’s signature offering, is a great way to unwind during your wellness escape. Dinner reservations are required for the inn’s very popular prix fixe, fourcourse dinner by chef Aaron Bedard, who highlights seasonal and creative fare. The chef fosters close relationships with local purveyors and farmers, maintaining the highest standards for meats and produce. More: www. stephanieinn.com

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Boost Your Endorphins Surrounded by Nature

WILDSPRING GUEST HABITAT | PORT ORFORD

AT LEFT Take in mountain air at Mt. Hood Oregon Resort, and experience its heated pool and cozy spa. (photo: Mt. Hood Oregon Resort) — AT RIGHT, FROM TOP

Get Active Outdoors

MT. HOOD OREGON RESORT | WELCHES

With 157 rooms, a refined spa and a twenty-sevenhole golf course, the Mt. Hood Oregon Resort is a favorite in Clackamas County. The hotel is close to world-class skiing and the Salmon River Trail, which offers boating, fly-fishing and hiking. Modern rooms feature comfortable beds, a small seating area, mini-fridges and coffee makers. Splurge on the suites, which offer more space, along with fireplaces, tubs and patios with splendid views. Book a treatment at the impressive 5,000-square-foot spa featuring seven treatment rooms, a couples treatment room, cedar saunas and a relaxation space. The property also has a state-of-the-art fitness center, heated outdoor pool, and basketball and tennis courts. Altitude Restaurant serves elevated international fare showcasing Pacific Northwest ingredients. For breakfast, do not miss the southern fried chicken and waffles or California Benedict. For lighter fare, go for the avocado toast. Dinners are elegant, with a romantic ambience. The BBQ short ribs are delicious and hearty, and the panko-crusted salmon is another great option. Mallards Café & Pub serves laid-back plates in a casual environment. Patio seating offers amazing views and is dogfriendly. You can not go wrong with their classic fish and chips. More: www.mthood-resort.com

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One place to leave it all behind is at Belknap Hot Springs on the McKenzie River. (photo: Melanie Griffin/Eugene, Cascades & Coast) The McKenzie River Trail takes hikers, runners and mountain bikers through old-growth forest while crisscrossing the McKenzie River. (photo: Samantha Inouye/Eugene, Cascades & Coast)

This small, eco-friendly gem, nestled in a quiet forest, overlooks the state’s popular South Coast. Five luxurious cabins are your base camp for a peaceful getaway. Think heated floors, vaulted ceilings and spacious living spaces with plenty of areas for lounging. Quality, antique furnishings decorate the rooms throughout the property. Perhaps the most impressive parts of the accommodations are the bathrooms, which feature walk-in slate showers and quality walnut shelving. Because there is no wifi, you can really disconnect from your technology devices and savor the peace and quiet, surrounded by the beauty of your environment. Set across five acres, the property is home to a sculpture garden, meditation labyrinth, guest hall and deck. A free breakfast buffet is included in your stay, along with more than 650 DVDs you can borrow to watch in your cabin. Though there are no cooking facilities inside the cabins, the guest hall kitchen is open to all after 11 a.m. The open-air, slate, jetted hot tub is a big draw. It overlooks the ocean and is a great way to unwind after a day of hiking and exploring. More: www. wildspring.com

About 60 miles from Eugene, this remotely located hideaway is open year-round, featuring two hot spring pools and lush outdoor gardens.

Hot Springs for Healing

BELKNAP HOT SPRINGS RESORT | MCKENZIE BRIDGE

Natural hot springs can provide benefits such as enhanced blood circulation and aid in pain management and may improve skin conditions. Plus they are relaxing and soothing as you enjoy being in the great outdoors. About 60 miles from Eugene, this remotely located hideaway is open year-round, featuring two hot spring pools and lush outdoor gardens. Accommodations include rooms in the rustic lodge, cabins with full kitchens, and RV and tent sites. Some rooms and cabins are pet-friendly. The lodge is a five-minute stroll to the McKenzie River Trail and a ten-minute drive to the Tokatee Golf Club, which offers an eighteen-hole championship course designed by renowned architect Ted Robinson. Bigelow Hot Springs, also known as Deer Creek Hot Springs, is a seven-minute drive from the resort and worth a visit. This small hot spring is located adjacent to the McKenzie River in the Willamette National Forest with fewer crowds. Clothing is optional, and there is no fee to enter. More: www. belknaphotsprings.com

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New Kid on the Block

ART & WINE COMBINE AT ARTIST BLOCK IN DUNDEE written by Kerry Newberry IT ISN’T every day you come across a tasting room that’s also a buzzy pop art gallery and studio. The vision of entrepreneur and artist Anna Sweet, Artist Block is one of the newer additions to the Willamette Valley wine scene. The airy space houses nearly 100 original artworks, including mixed-media pieces by Sweet (her sculptural Yummy Bears and DotNut series) and selections from emerging artists around the world. Three contemporary creators Sweet has on display right now include pixel artist Jennifer Lashbrook, sculptor and photographer Helga Stentzel and painter Kevin Komadina. Visit Artist Block at 9650 NE Fox Lane in Dundee, or learn more online at www.artistblockwine.com.

Designed by Portland-based firm Linden, Brown Architecture, the building’s contemporary Z shape is surrounded by vineyards and includes a tasting room, art studio and residence. (photo: Jeremy Bittermann/Artist Block)

Winemaker Bree Stock (left) sits with Artist Block founder Anna Sweet. Stock is Oregon’s first Master of Wine and the only female MW in the Pacific Northwest. In addition to tasting through her wines made for Artist Block, you can select from offerings that feature a flight of up-and-coming winemakers or special cellared bottles. (photo: Artist Block)

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You’ll often find Anna Sweet working in her studio just below the tasting room. Here she’s putting the final touches on her popular DotNuts. The DotNuts are sculpted and formed out of foam and then airbrushed and decorated with eye-catching toppings. (And no, they are not edible.) (photo: Jeremy Bittermann/Artist Block) AT RIGHT, TOP Ron Giusti, LOVE Takeout Portland artist Ron Giusti creates mini paintings inspired by Franz Kline and Koji Kakinuma along with larger graffiti-esque pieces that pay homage to his career as a creative director. On his larger pieces, you’ll often see Chinese takeout cartons, origami animals and vintage Chinese matchbook art. (photo: Artist Block) AT RIGHT, BOTTOM Helga Stentzel, Ca-bear-net Known for her surrealist photography and whimsical sculptures, Helga Stentzel is a Siberian-born artist based in London. She received the Food Art Creator of the Year award in 2020 and has collaborated with Hermes, BBC and Honda. Before becoming a full-time artist, Stentzel worked in advertising and ran a children’s clothing business. (photo: Artist Block)

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AT LEFT Jennifer Lashbrook, Andy Warhol

ABOVE Jory Coup, California Cult I

Obsessed with color, Dallas-based artist Jennifer Lashbrook uses individually cut paper paint swatches in a collage form to create pixelated images of landscapes, cityscapes, portraits and famous works of art. (photo: Artist Block)

Jory Coup is a studio brand of art by Anna Sweet that experiments with new and inventive techniques. The line ranges from graffiti works and colorful pop art to still-life photography with a twist. She’s sold this unexpected but enticing pairing to hang in personal wine cellars. Paging Paul Giamatti. (photo: Artist Block)

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Wildhorse Resort & Casino

Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton brings the fun.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST CASINOS

GETAWAYS, NEW THINGS & ENTERTAINMENT FOR INCLEMENT WEATHER

written by Emma Giffin

hh, spring in the Pacific Northwest. It’s a time when skies are gray and dripping and the temperatures are too cold for al fresco dining. The summer pursuits are still weeks off, sheltering for now, until sun hits our trails and hardens the mud, temperatures rise to the point where cyclists aren’t generating prohibitive cold as they pedal, and the outdoor spaces of breweries are filled with people sipping and playing lawn games. Still the body is restless from a long winter, disappointment from snow that came late and missed the holidays, when we could have participated in snow sports. Spring is nonetheless a season of optimism, creativity and opportunity. It is rebirth and renewal, for both nature and ourselves. It’s that tug of getting out and the perennial drive for renewal that brings us to getaways that offer excitement, rebirth and a chance to get outdoors, if weather abides. There are many excursions you can put together around casinos and nearby outdoor activities, but we went ahead and created a few here to serve as a model of what they can look like. Our emphasis is on the balance between the need for something new and the need to get outside and renew. These casinos offer a mix of luxury spas, gourmet restaurants, lively gaming and proximity to interesting excursions to feed the mind and body.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WASHINGTON

OCEANSIDE LUXURY AT TULALIP RESORT CASINO

Tulalip Resort Casino

Mexican dishes at Salish Sun Taqueria and stone-fired pizza at Blazing Paddles. A short drive south of the resort puts you at the Hibulb Cultural Center and Natural History Preserve, where you can learn about the history of the Tulalip Tribes and meander the 50-acre natural preserve. Just 7 miles south, find peace at the Evergreen Arboretum and Gardens. This

A rendering shows details from Tulalip Resort Casino’s planned renovation and expansion, which is expected to be completed in 2025.

3.5-acre redoubt has eleven gardens, including the Urban Tree Walk, Rock Garden, Northwest Native Plant Trail, Japanese Maple Grove and others. If you loved your Tulalip getaway, set a date for 2025 when plans for a 70,250-square-foot expansion are expected to be completed. | www.tulalip resortcasino.com

OREGON

A SUN-SOAKED CLEANSE AT WILDHORSE

Tamástslikt Cultural Institute

Don’t miss the Wildhorse Resort golf course during your stay.

Wildhorse Resort & Casino

e begin at the luxurious Tulalip Resort Casino, just off the Puget Sound forty minutes north of Seattle. The resort has more than 300 luxury rooms designed with traditional Tulalip Tribes decor, as well as a pool and hot tub for relaxation. Don’t give up your fitness routine, as Tulalip has a fitness room with many of the cardio machines you’d find at your hometown fitness club. Across from that is the T Spa, a luxurious sanctuary offering deep tissue massages as well as Native-inspired spa rituals, body treatments and skin therapies. For entertainment, the resort has a full suite of slots and table games, as well as a cabaret venue, a ballroom for bigger bands and an outdoor amphitheater for summer concerts. Resort dining options include Asian cuisine at Journeys East,

MORE TO EXPLORE: Tamástslikt Cultural Institute

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f there’s any chance for good weather and good times this spring, it’s at Wildhorse Resort & Casino in Pendleton. Run by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation (including Cayuse, Walla Walla and Umatilla tribes), the resort combines luxury and fun with a twenty-four-lane bowling alley. It’s also perfect for those who want to gamble by night and lay down a wager among friends at the resort golf course by day. Wildhorse Resort Golf Course is an eighteen-hole, 7,112-yard Scottish-links style course that plays fast under the Eastern Oregon sun. All of the resort rooms are nicely designed with a contemporary flair and all of the amenities you would expect from a luxury resort. Splurge on the 850-square-foot Vista Suite, with two huge flat screens, a wet bar and separate living room.

There are many options for dining and drinking, beginning with Plateau, a restaurant serving local beef in the form of filet mignon, a Kobe beef burger, pomodoro pasta and a handful of green salads. Sandwiches, burgers, nachos and quesadillas are on the menu at Traditions. Head to the Wildhorse Sports Bar for happy hour for fish and chips, calamari and wings. Family fun takes precedence at the Wildhorse FunPlex, an arcade, bowling alley and five-screen Cineplex. If walking eighteen holes isn’t your thing, walk 1.4 miles along the outskirts of the golf course to the excellent Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, the only museum on the Oregon Trail that tells the story of western expansionism from a tribal point of view. Of course, you can’t come that far without stopping at Deadman’s Pass Rest Area to see wagon ruts along the Oregon Trail. | www.wildhorseresort.com

MORE WINNERS MORE FUN!

With over 1,100 Vegas-style slots, table games, scenic golf, a Family FunPlex, live entertainment and delicious restaurants, you'll find endless ways to play just a short drive away!

CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F 05812.TT.01.24

Photos: Legends Casino Hotel

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Atomic Heritage Foundation

Find superb entertainment options at Legends Casino Hotel, just west of the Tri-Cities and south of Yakima.

WASHINGTON

LEGENDS ON WASHINGTON’S HIGH DESERT

MORE TO EXPLORE: Manhattan Project B Reactor

MORE TO EXPLORE: Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge

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n the edge of the Yakama Indian Reservation and just west of the Tri-cities, Legends Casino Hotel offers 200 rooms with eighteen of those luxury suites, outfitted with Native murals and Native Naturals bath amenities, a Native American-owned company that uses Native botanicals. The Celilo Suite is the essence of renewal, with a relaxing soaking tub and 800 square feet of mindspace. The hotel also has an indoor pool and hot tub for those who don’t have a private soaking tub. Entertainment includes live music, boxing, comedy and more. For example, March and April bring the Marshall Tucker Band with Jefferson Starship, Third Eye Blind and standup comedian Jo Koy to Legends. Boxer Roy Jones Jr. came and went in January. Dining is well covered by the buffet, which features cedar plank salmon, crab boils, bone-in ribeye and huckleberry

cheesecake. Legendary Burgers, Madres Mexican restaurant and pizza at Creations round out the dining options. Walk to the Yakama Nation Cultural Center to learn more about the history of the Yakama Nation, made up of fourteen tribes and bands. A short 12-mile drive south, head to the Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge, an almost 2,000-acre wetland preserve where you’ll find lots of shorebirds and upland wildlife such as coyotes, deer and badgers. Since you’ve no doubt seen the threehour blockbuster Oppenheimer, starring Cillian Murphy as atomic bomb creator Robert Oppenheimer, you’ll want to tack on an hour jaunt east to the Manhattan Project National Historical Park at Hanford, a key part of the Manhattan Project. Be sure to reserve tickets for a B Reactor tour if you go. | www.legends casino.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

WASHINGTON

TRIPLE THE FUN AT 12 TRIBES COLVILLE CASINOS

Muckleshoot Casino Resort

T Stay and play at Muckleshoot Casino Resort near Tacoma.

WASHINGTON

A CHANCE TO RELAX & REJUVENATE AT MUCKLESHOOT CASINO RESORT

Chuck Lysen/Travel Tacoma

ust 16 miles east of Tacoma, step into the Muckleshoot Casino Resort. On clear days in spring, you’ll get views of Mount Rainier, the Olympic Range and the Seattle skyline from the eighteen-story hotel. Opening this spring is the Labcəbut Spa. The spa will give Muckleshoot visitors just what they need—rejuvenating massage and facial treatments. The expanded resort offers an indoor heated pool and Smoke & Cedar, an upscale steakhouse with sweeping views of Mount Rainier, located on the rooftop. Some of the other dining options include Restaurant 8, Asian and seafood, with Maine lobster flown in weekly and Peking duck. Entertainment is another reason to make Muckleshoot your getaway. Boyz II Men and Morris Day and the Time are two notable acts coming to stage at Muckleshoot’s Event Center. For more live music and dancing, hit Club Galaxy, where the beat never stops. While in the Tacoma neighborhood, don’t miss the Tacoma Museum of Glass, just 16 miles west. The museum is the nation’s premier fusion of contemporary glass art and glassmaking. Widely known for its Dale Chihuly works, this spring exhibits such as The Salmon School and A Two-Way Mirror exhibit by contemporary Black artists are more reasons to take this outing. Head back to Muckleshoot’s rooftop bar to cap the evening in this cultured western Washington getaway. | www.muckleshootcasino.com

MORE TO EXPLORE: Tacoma Museum of Glass

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he 12 Tribes of Colville came to be by an act of the United States government in 1872 under President Ulysses S. Grant thereby combining twelve tribes and reducing their lands to acres along the Columbia River. Today, you have vast options when it comes to the 12 Tribes Colville Casinos. The three properties are at Coulee Dam, Omak and Lake Chelan, each with its own nearby adventures. Known for its blackjack tournaments, each property, however, has its own charm. The flagship property is the Omak casino, just south of the Canadian border on Highway 97. Rooms in the hotel have windows that showcase the vast rugged terrain of the surrounding Okanogan country. Just east of Omak is Omak Lake, the state’s largest saline lake at 3,244 acres. Though the shoreline is prohibited to non-tribal members, the boat launch and waters are open to the public for boating in its crystal blue waters. Gaming includes slots, blackjack, poker, roulette and more. If you’re feeling lucky after a straight flush with spades, grab a set of clubs across the road at Okanagan Valley Golf Club, where it’s $40 for eighteen holes. Wind down at the casino’s Loggers Pub, where the bourbon bbq ribs or salmon will pair nicely with a craft IPA. | www.colvillecasinos.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Photos: Seven Feathers Casino Resort

Seven Feathers Casino Resort is perfect for a weekend getaway.

OREGON

A PAMPERED STAY AT SEVEN FEATHERS

even Feathers Casino Resort sits between Eugene and Medford in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, home to many beautiful waterfalls—Deadline Falls, Fern Falls and Fall Creek Falls to name a few. After a vigorous hike to waterfalls, come back to Seven Feathers’ River Rock Spa and take to the calming soaking pool, the sauna and massage treatments. Find your cozy space in Seven Feathers’ 300-room hotel—perhaps a newly

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renovated 600-square-foot king suite with jacuzzi tub and walk-in shower. The K-Bar Steakhouse and Elements Lounge are two of many restaurants and bars on Seven Feathers’ campus. Elements also has live music acts that span rock to country and live DJs. An indoor pool and fitness center will keep you fit if the weather doesn’t abide. Know that out front you can find Skookum Hyak, the largest bronze-cast eagle in the world. | www.sevenfeathers.com

Don Frank

TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 82 ADVENTURE 84 LODGING 90 TRIP PLANNER 92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 98

pg. 84 Try these surf spots along the Oregon Coast.

travel spotlight

Fossils found at the Wheeler High School fossil beds in Fossil.

Digging for Fossils Fossil, Oregon, lives up to its name ARE YOU an explorer? Would you like to dig for fossils in a place that is relatively unknown? Then head to the tiny town of Fossil in the land where time forgot. Here you can find fossils in a hillside formed some 30 million years ago by volcanic activity. What was once a lush region with lakes and waterways is now a paradise for rock hounds and fossil lovers. Diggers have found more than thirty different species of plants, insects and fish, some designated as being extinct. No excavation experience is necessary—just bring some patience and a rock pick, trowel and chisel. If you don’t happen to have these on hand, you can borrow equipment on site. This fossil bed was discovered during the building of Wheeler High School in 1949 when builders noticed a large amount of fossilized rock as they were digging for the foundation. Because the fossils were so abundant, the site has been open to the public and there is no shortage of discoveries. Most rocks show leaf imprints, but digging a bit deeper results in excavating shale. Gently split that shale open, and you might just find a fossil. While visiting this quaint little town, stop by the Fossil Museum to take a gander at its extensive collection. Then hop over to White Stag Brewery for libations and good grub. Don’t forget to step back in time at the Fossil Mercantile, an old-timey grocery store chock-full of beautiful quilts. Another fun fact about this town: It is located at the 45th parallel, exactly halfway between the equator and the North Pole.

Nat West

written by Joni Kabana

CHOOSE YOUR PET-FRIENDLY STAY

861 SW 51st Street LINCOLN CITY

Planning a trip with your four-legged friend? Stay at one of Westover Inns’ three dog-friendly hotels on the Oregon Coast, and enjoy a beautiful ocean-view room in Lincoln City or Cannon Beach. Each dog guest receives a basket to use during their stay with dog bowls, sheets, towels, pet waste bags, and treats. Our family-owned hotels are ready to host your family, again and again.

541.996.3996 lookingglassinn.com

120 NW Inlet Court LINCOLN CITY 541.994.4121 shearwaterinn.com

3339 S. Hemlock Street CANNON BEACH 503.436.1577 thewayside-inn.com

Everyone Needs a

Beach Buddy

adventure

Surf’s Up! The best places to ride waves on the Oregon Coast written by Jen Sotolongo

Justin Bailie

OFTEN OVERSHADOWED by more famous surfing destinations with warmer temperatures and palm trees, Oregon’s rugged coastline holds a secret for those seeking untamed waves and a unique surfing experience. Shaped by Pacific swells and surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, Oregon’s surf scene is both challenging and rewarding for beginners and experts alike. The allure lies not only in the waves but in the sense of discovery as you navigate lesserknown surf spots alongside charming coastal towns.

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adventure

The Oregon Coast is a beautiful and challenging setting for surfing.

MARCH | APRIL 2024

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Justin Bailie

adventure

Manzanita surf can be as cool of a ride as the small community it flows up to.

Manzanita Nestled between the mountains and the ocean, Manzanita is a popular surf spot located a little more than an hour from Portland. Known for its mellow waves, the main beach in town is an ideal spot for beginner surfers, while nearby Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park caters to intermediate riders. Post-surf, visitors can explore the laid-back Manzanita community and indulge in the town’s diverse dining scene. Rent all your surfing essentials from Bahama Mama’s right in town.

Otter Rock

Between June and August, Otter Rock is one of the most popular surf spots on the Oregon Coast for beginners, thanks to the gentle waves and minimal hazards. 86 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Tillamook Coast Visitors Association

Between June and August, Otter Rock is one of the most popular surf spots on the Oregon Coast for beginners, thanks to the gentle waves and minimal hazards. Pura Vida Surf Shop in Otter Rock offers gear rentals and lessons. Located right in between Lincoln City and Newport, when you’re not surfing, there is plenty to explore, including nearby Devils Punchbowl State Natural Area, with its collapsed sea cave, captivating waves and tide pools.

adventure Short Sand Beach at Oswald West State Park, south of Cannon Beach and in a sheltered cove.

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adventure

Oregon’s best-known surf spot, Pacific City, has a good break, amazing views of Haystack Rock and surfside craft beer.

Pacific City Pacific City caters to surfers of all levels and is a favorite spot among the surfing community. Cape Kiwanda is the most popular surf spot in town, thanks to the consistent conditions year-round and a sandy bottom that makes for safer conditions. Beginners can catch tamer waters near the north end of the beach, while more experienced surfers can venture to the main surf break at the southern end. Lessons and board rentals are available from local surf shop Moment Surf Company. After a long day in the water, enjoy a post-ride brew with a view at the award-winning Pelican Brewing Company, situated right on the beach. In addition to surfing, visitors can enjoy other outdoor activities, including a hike up the famous sand dune to take in the breathtaking panorama.

Gold Beach A hidden gem along the Southern Oregon Coast, Gold Beach offers a tranquil surfing escape. With consistent waves and a more secluded atmosphere, it caters to surfers of varying skill levels. During the summer months, the best spot is just south of the Rogue River jetty, and winter enthusiasts should check out Meyers Creek. After a day on the water, unwind at local eateries like Barnacle Bistro or the Pacific Reef Hotel restaurant, savoring local Northwest flavors.

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TravelOregon.com

Tillamook Coast Visitors Association

Enjoy sweeping coastal views from the towering sand dune at Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area in Pacific City.

adventure

SAFETY Oregon’s surf scene is not about glamor—it’s about the raw, authentic connection to the ocean and the unmatched thrill of conquering the Pacific’s formidable waves framed by coastal mountains and lush green forests. For those willing to trade crowded beaches for the rugged beauty of the Oregon Coast, proper attire and knowledge is a must for safe enjoyment. Be mindful of the cold water temperatures, and equip yourself with a suitable wetsuit to stay warm. Before hitting the waves, check local surf conditions, tides and weather forecasts—the coastal storms are no joke. Oregon’s coastline features diverse breaks, so choose spots that match your skill level. Respect the power of the ocean, watch for rip currents and always surf with a buddy. Familiarize yourself with the local surf etiquette, and be courteous to fellow surfers.

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lodging

ROOMS The 120-room property offers queen, king and deluxe king stays with simple but elegant decor. Elevated touches in each room include ample soaking tubs with shower rooms and luxurious Japanese-style toilets (heated seats and more). For business travelers, each room also has a small desk—but you can also take advantage of the conference rooms and meeting spaces.

FEATURES The Cedartree Hotel lobby features a large koi pond.

What makes this perfect for a staycation is the onsen-style baths where you can soak and relax. In addition to two indoor baths, there’s an outdoor soaking experience in development that will sit adjacent to the beautifully landscaped Japanese gardens. A sado room is available for tea ceremonies, ikebana classes and other cultural events.

Lodging

Cedartree Hotel written by Kerry Newberry WHEN YOU think of Hillsboro, you might not immediately picture a spot for a staycation. But that’s changing with the opening of Cedartree Hotel, a 120-room property launched by a longstanding Kyoto-based hospitality company. While the location was picked for its access to Silicon Forest and the cluster of high-tech companies between Beaverton and Hillsboro, the amenities will appeal to a broader collective. In addition to a sixty-eight-seat restaurant that overlooks Japanese gardens, there’s a sake bar called Kiyomizu with an impressive fifteen-plus glass list and izakaya-style snacks for pairing. A small but airy tatami room is available for tea ceremonies, flower-arranging classes and other cultural events. What sets the lodging apart is a series of traditional water features, including two heated indoor soaking pools—a reminder of how water is a balm.

DINING Two dining options make it easy to stay on-site. For izakaya-style snacks, Kiyomizu serves up a selection of small bites from nasubi no nibitashi (deep-fried eggplant simmered in Japanese soup stock) to asari no sakamushi (clams steamed in sake). Their sake list has more than fifteen glass pours from Japan’s ricegrowing regions, including Tohoku, Hokuriku and Shikoku. Waterfalls (restaurant and bar) offers a full dinner menu on select evenings. Photos: Cedartree Hotel

4901 NE FIVE OAKS DRIVE HILLSBORO www.cedartreehotels.com

FROM LEFT Waterfalls is one of two superb restaurants at Cedartree. The simple Japanese aesthetic carries through the guest rooms at Cedartree.

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AMENITIES Enjoy a serene lounge area with couches and a miniature koi pond. The adjacent gift shop is stocked with popular Japanese snacks from Calbee Shrimp Chips to Matcha Pocky (green teacovered biscuits). You’ll also find a selection of traditional Japanese attire from geta sandals and sensu fans to beautifully patterned yukata robes.

Pursuing excellence through fitness 61615 Athletic Club Drive

(541) 385-3062

trip planner

Prineville and Crook County Your itinerary for searching for, climbing up and digging into the center of Oregon written by James Sinks

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trip planner

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

The Crook County Courthouse in downtown Prineville was built in 1909 and still has its original crank system, which is wound once per week.

IN THE MIDDLE of it all, you can get away from it all. Draw two diagonal lines across a map of Oregon, from corner-to-corner, and the lines will cross on private land near Post, a sneeze-and-you’ll-miss-it hamlet with a general store and not much else, a half-hour’s drive southeast of Prineville. At first blush, there’s little to see, although the store sells pretty good milkshakes. Behind a locked gate, a small metal marker designates the state’s geographic center. Yet it’s out of sight, at 3,383 feet of elevation near two-lane State Highway 380, and across a sea of grass. Ironically enough, there’s no post. And yet, it’s an inspiration. If you feel stressed or askew, meditation gurus suggest balancing your spiritual equilibrium. Find your center, they say. In Prineville and the heart of Crook County, opportunities abound to do just that. Explore, climb, float and dig into the center of Oregon. Revel in unbroken vistas. Forage for Oregon’s official state rock. Catch your breath on bikes or in boots, and cast flies into riffles of the wild and scenic Crooked River. This sagebrush-and-pine country was the childhood home of a central figure in Oregon modern history, largerthan-life Governor Tom McCall, in a basalt-bordered canyon north of Prineville. His love for the landscape—and desire to protect it from becoming California-style suburbia—led him in the 1970s to champion the nation’s first land use planning law and his famous sentiment to “visit, but don’t stay.” His mother, Dorothy Lawson McCall, the daughter of an East Coast copper magnate, wrote about arriving in Crook County in the 1910s in her book, Ranch Under the Rimrock. “No skies so blue, no sun so bright,” she wrote. “The eye follows almost limitless alfalfa fields, towering rimrock, and great stretches of sage and juniper to faraway horizons.” In many places, the view hasn’t changed much since it was the pre-pioneer range of the Piute and Warm Springs tribes. In others, there’s evidence of the region’s evolving economy: Near irrigated fields, server farms have sprung up for Facebook and Apple. And always in the background, craggy canyons and the Crooked River beckon you to find your center, framed against skies that have never been so blue. MARCH | APRIL 2024

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trip planner

Day

AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Nike royalty Penny and Phil Knight donated sculptures to Prineville. Tastee Treet is an Americana classic with burgers and ice cream. Tiger Town Brewing in Mitchell is well worth the drive for amazing beer in this one-horse town.

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Shannah Goe

In this part of the world, a good set of tires is a prerequisite to adventure. That could explain how the late tire king Les Schwab became a local folk hero, growing a single tire store in Prineville into a multistate empire—and how he still remains better known than George Crook, the U.S. Army commander from the Civil War and several Indian wars for whom the county was named. A good way to learn the lay of the land is on two wheels, and Prineville offers abundant options, from a 10-miler in town to the “Lower 66” trail system for the fat tire set. Good Bike Co., a bicycle dealer and repair shop in a former service station, calls this the “best little bike town that no one has ever heard of.” The oldest incorporated city in Central Oregon, Prineville was founded in 1870 and still loves the old West. Outside the circa-1908 courthouse are statues of a horse being chased by a cowboy, gifts to the city from Nike founder Phil Knight and his wife, Penny. Downtown, brick and stone buildings along Main Street still sell leather and western wear, and the biggest annual draw is the summertime Crooked River Roundup rodeo. If your nose is working, it’s easy to locate Wild Ride Tap Room and Brewery—where food trucks flavor the dry Central Oregon air. Inside, sample 3 Sisters American Red Ale and Whoopty Wheat, both gold medal winners at the 2023 North America Beer Awards. Prineville’s downtown district is more than charming: It’s charm-filled. On the “charm trail,” buy miniature metal mementoes from different businesses for $1.50, among them a cowboy boot, pistol and martini glasses, and then string them together as a custom charm bracelet. Down the street, take a free trip down memory lane at the A.R. Bowman Museum, in a former bank at the corner of North Third and Main. It sells the covered wagon charm. South of town, the wild and scenic Chimney Rock stretch of the Crooked River feels like an Old West painting as the waterway—a world-class fishery in this spot—weaves between basalt cliffs. Cast flies for fish, or head upward to the Chimney Rock outcropping. It’s a 2.7-mile roundtrip trail to the top. After checking into the western-themed Rustlers Inn, saunter to Club Pioneer, a steak-and-seafood restaurant that opened in 1942 as a rough-around-the-edges saloon. Then, catch a skyshow at Prineville Reservoir State Park, which was designated in 2021 as Oregon’s first International Dark Sky Park. Or, if you’d like some popcorn and a shorter drive, the restored historic Pine Theater shows first-run movies.

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES • BREWS • CHARM TRAIL

Prineville-Crook County Chamber & Visitor Center

Steins Pillar outside of Prineville is a magnet for climbers and photographers.

Day ROCKHOUNDING • PAINTED HILLS • TASTEE TREET For millions of years, violent eruptions from the nearby craters made the area a pretty lame place to visit. Now, however, the volcanic landscapes offers plenty of appeal. With so many places to find agates, petrified wood, jasper and dazzling thunder eggs—with quartz or other glittery rocks hiding inside—Crook County is known as the Rockhounding Capital of Oregon. Grab a local rockhounding map for $5 (it’s $20 if you buy it online) at the chamber of commerce. Then for a rockin’ country breakfast, Blue Fish Fine Foods on North Main has stuffed hash browns and French toast with caramel apples. Your first geological foray is a quick drive and a 5-mile outand-back hike to Steins Pillar, a 350-foot-high natural column that’s popular with both photographers and climbers. If you’re lucky enough to have rope, safety gear and muscles, it’s a quieter alternative to sometimes-bustling Smith Rock State Park near Terrebonne. Then, head east. Wild horses prowl the Ochoco Mountains, so keep your eyes peeled. More likely, you’ll spot some of the hundreds of old mines—most dug for gold, mercury and cinnabar—near Walton Lake, many with still-intact abandoned equipment and buildings. Consult your map to see where to pull out picks and shovels for thunder eggs, declared Oregon’s official state rock in 1965.

Because many sites are down gravel and unplowed roads, also check the weather. Almost an hour from Prineville, the town of Mitchell is a former ranching, gold mining and logging outpost. It’s now home to 130 people, and sometimes a herd of deer. In yesteryear, downtown boasted five saloons and several brothels in the rowdy “Tiger Town” district. Today, not-rowdy Tiger Town Brewing Co. sells wings, sandwiches, steaks and a dozen beers, and has a stage for concerts in warm weather. Mitchell is also the gateway to one of Oregon’s seven wonders: the Painted Hills. Part of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, rumble over the cattle grate into a fairyland valley, where an assortment of hikes are more amazing among multicolored yellow, red, black and gold strata of rock and minerals. For photos, find the best light in the afternoon. Also, don’t miss the boardwalk over and between mounds of delicate red rock at the quarter-mile-long Painted Cove Trail, further back in the park. Also, is that a monkey face on a hill? Don’t stay too long, however. Things don’t stay open particularly late in Prineville. Back in town, grab barbecue at Dillon’s Grill and dessert at Tastee Treet Drive-In, which has been dishing up soft serve under a neon sign since 1957. If you’re hankering for drinks on the rocks after a day in the rocks, find character and characters at the Horseshoe Tavern, one of the city’s few late-ish night spots. It’s open until 11. MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 95

EAT Blue Fish Fine Foods www.bluefishfinefoods.com Club Pioneer www.clubpioneer.com Dad’s Place 541-316-3395 Dillion’s Cafe www.dillonsgrill.com Post General Store 541-477-3285 Range Restaurant and Bar www.brasada.com Tastee Treet 541-447-4165 Tiger Town Brewing Co. www.tigertownbrewing.com Wild Ride Brewery www.wildridebrew.com

STAY Best Western www.bestwestern.com Brasada Ranch www.brasada.com Country Inn and Suites www.choicehotels.com Rustlers Inn www.rustlersinn.com Wine Down Ranch www.winedownranch.com

PLAY A.R. Bowman Museum www.crookcountyhistorycenter.org Crooked River Wetlands Complex www.cityofprineville.com Crooked Wild and Scenic River www.blm.gov Good Bike Co. www.goodbikeco.com Gramma Rose’s Petting Zoo www.grammaroseszoo.com Lower 66 Trails www.cityofprineville.com Meadow Lakes Golf Course www.meadowlakesgc.com Painted Hills www.nps.gov Pine Theater www.pinetheater.com Prineville charm trail www.prinevillechamber.com Prineville Reservoir www.stateparks.oregon.gov Steins Pillar www.fs.usda.gov

City of Prineville

PRINEVILLE + CROOK COUNTY, OREGON

trip planner

The Crooked River wetlands complex brings together high tech, golf irrigation and wastewater.

Day WETLANDS • GOLF • S’MORES AT SUNSET Bird or birdie seeking, or both? On the northwest edge of town, Crooked River Wetlands Complex touts all-season birdwatching and 5.4 miles of hiking and running trails. Nearby, the municipal Meadow Lakes Golf Course is an eighteen-hole championshiplength links with plenty of options to lose balls and your patience, with nine ponds and sixty-two sand bunkers. A common tie? The wetlands and golf course are part of the city’s wastewater system. The filtering wetlands, fed largely from the water-cooled computer data centers, negated the need for an expensive new treatment plant. Then the city irrigates the golf grass with treated water instead of discharging into the Crooked River, which makes regulators happy. Ask folks in Prineville what their city is, and you’re just as likely to also hear what it’s not: Bend. Nearby Bend may be bigger, newer, better known and hipper, but Prineville is cheaper, just as pretty, and there’s zero pretense, said Rick Steber, a grizzled author, irreverent newspaper columnist, poet and the proprietor of an artisan shop downtown. He writes a book a year at his cabin in the Ochocos, the latest a biography of county namesake George Crook, called Out Killing Indians. “In Prineville, you’re just as likely to see a tractor driving down Main Street as a

96 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

Mercedes,” he said at his Makers and Giant Toilet Paper Emporium, which he renamed during the pandemic. Another thing Prineville has that Bend doesn’t? Kangaroos. First feed yourself brunch at Dad’s Cafe, where there’s breakfast all day, and then hop to Gramma Rose’s Petting Zoo to feed a menagerie of exotic friends including kangaroos, wallabies and a porcupine. Make reservations in advance. After a weekend on the go—and before it’s time to go home—take the chance to slow down, breathe and get centered. With Prineville-based Bhakti Earth Yoga, you can even do mountain poses outside on a mountain, weather permitting. Complete your centering journey in nearby Powell Butte at Brasada Ranch, consistently ranked among the top resorts in the Pacific Northwest by Condé Nast. At Range Restaurant & Bar, savor territorial views and seasonal farm-to-table fare like Columbia River steelhead and braised short ribs. Absolutely, positively leave room for s’mores. From a window seat or outside at the massive fire pit, watch the sun gently settle toward the Three Sisters. It’s a panorama not unlike what awestruck Dorothy McCall a century ago, over almost limitless alfalfa fields, towering rimrock and great stretches of sage and juniper to faraway horizons.

northwest destination

Cruising along Riverside Park in downtown Whitefish.

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northwest destination

Downtown Whitefish at dusk. Boutiques, restaurants, galleries and outdoor gear shops cover all the main food groups.

Spring in Whitefish Find a world-class experience in a small mountain town written by Kevin Max photography by Whitney Whitehouse

WHITEFISH, MONTANA, may be known as the host for skiers at Whitefish Resort in the winter or as the gateway to Glacier National Park in the summer, but it’s the Whitefish culture of creativity itself that pervades all seasons. No more than 10,000 people live in this small town surrounded by the Salish Mountains to the west and Flathead National Forest to the east, but it nonetheless ticks many boxes for worldclass cuisine, hospitality and recreation.

In its earliest civilizations, Salish, Kootenai and Pend d’Oreilles tribes inhabited the area, fishing the banks of the Whitefish Lake and Whitefish River as it winds through what is now downtown Whitefish. The outdoors and recreation are still the draw for many Whitefish residents and visitors. For hikers and runners, there are scores of trails in the surrounding forests and mountains. Lion Mountain Trailhead is a favorite easy 2.6-mile loop that winds beneath towering pines and overlooks Skyles Lake. West of town, Nordic skiing is still viable in spring when there is good snowpack. The Glacier Nordic Center is the starting point for skinny skis. Seven miles north of town, Whitefish Mountain Resort is an independently owned alternative to monstrous and commercial alpine ski resorts, with 3,000 acres and more than 2,500 feet vertical. For lodging, consider the amazing little bed-and-breakfast on the northern edge of town, Good Medicine Lodge, once named one of the best ski lodges in the country by USA Today. This eco-friendly, nine-bedroom lodge is made from cedar, with a communal cozy den heated by a wood-burning stove. Perhaps the best features are its exquisite breakfasts featuring homemade sourdough bread, lemon-blueberry Dutch babies, pecan-cinnamon muffins, perfectly made croque madames and artisanally roasted Good Medicine Coffee. MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 99

WHITEFISH, MONTANA

northwest destination

EAT Amazing Crêpes www.amazingcrepes.com Bonsai Brewing Project www.bonsaibrew.com Ciao Mambo www.ciaomambo.com Fleur Bake Shop www.fleurbakeshop.com Markus Community Market www.markuscommunitymarket.com Montana Coffee Traders www.coffeetraders.com Spotted Bear Spirits www.spottedbearspirits.com

STAY Firebrand Hotel www.firebrandhotel.com Garden Wall Inn www.gardenwallinn.com Good Medicine Lodge www.goodmedicinelodge.com

PLAY Cawdrey Gallery www.cawdreygallery.com FoR Fine Art www.forfineart.com Glacier National Park www.nps.gov/glac/index.htm Glacier Nordic Center www.glaciernordicclub.org Harlow www.facebook.com/myharlow Montana E-Bikes www.mtebikes.com Pedego www.pedegoelectricbikes.com/ dealers/whitefish The Toggery www.toggerymontana.com Whitefish Mountain Resort www.skiwhitefish.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Good Medicine Coffee roaster Ryan Grenier. FoR Fine Art, where local artists are well represented. Good Medicine Lodge is a lovely retreat on the edge of town. Spotted Bear Spirits is a hip little cocktail bar serving its own distilled spirits. Amazing Crêpes will satisfy the sweet or savory breakfast palate.

100 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

northwest destination

No more than 10,000 people live in this small town surrounded by the Salish Mountains to the west and Flathead National Forest to the east, but it nonetheless ticks many boxes for world-class cuisine, hospitality and recreation. Ditch your car by renting e-bikes at Pedego or Montana EBikes. Make downtown your destination and take a relaxing ride along the Whitefish River at Riverside Park. If you didn’t take your breakfast at Good Medicine, Amazing Crêpes downtown on Central Avenue lives up to its billing. Montana Coffee Traders, across the street, is a hopping place to grab good coffee and a Danish to go. Things to die for include the chocolate raspberry brioche or the ham and gruyère croissant at Fleur Bake Shop. If you’re planning a long day at Glacier or the surrounding trails, stop in at Markus Community Market’s deli for gourmet grab-and-go sandwiches and wraps. After a day riding or hiking at Glacier National Park, take in more creative local culture at FoR Fine Art gallery, where you’ll find many talented Montana artists exhibiting. Cruise down East Second Street to Lupfer Avenue and Cawdrey Gallery, where Glacier National Park is the canvas for artists. If dinner is on your mind, head to Ciao Mambo, billed as “mountain Italian,” where you’ll find all of the classic Italian dishes you would expect in a sophisticated Italian eatery with a bustling kitchen. The lasagna and cioppino are excellent. The wine list is extensive and dominated by Italian reds with a good selection from California, Oregon and Washington. Just around the corner on Railway Street, you’ll find the small and chic Spotted Bear Spirits, where cocktails are made with their own gin, vodka, agave and bourbon. What’s Your Sign, a vodka-based cocktail with hibiscus tea, ginger syrup, lime and angostura bitters is as good as it sounds. Sit back and listen for the whistle of the Empire Builder as it departs the historic Tudor-style Whitefish depot for Seattle just one block over. Raise a glass to those who were lucky enough to disembark in Whitefish. Grab your e-bike and head back to Good Medicine Lodge’s neighbor, Bonsai Brewing Project, a tasty small-batch brewhouse with indoor seating and an outdoor beer garden. The single-hop pale ale Initiation and Zenith, a rye IIPA, are good examples of Bonsai’s brewing artistry and the culture of creativity in this small Montana mountain town. MARCH | APRIL 2024

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE 101

1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville

Eugene Springfield

John Day

Redmond

Sisters Florence

Ontario

Bend Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass Brookings

Joseph

Jacksonville

Paisley

Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

18 Benchmark

48 Oregon Wine Board

Fossil

26 Portland Food Adventures

50 Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area

Cape Kiwanda

Cedartree Hotel

Crooked River Roundup

Whitefish, Montana

27 Lithia Loft 27 Xiao Ye

52 Crow’s Shadow Institute of the Arts

28 Hallmark Fisheries

54 Cascade Relays Foundation

102 1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL 2024

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Continue for Special Insert

FROM THE GREEN

The Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course (photo: Visit Idaho)

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

GOLF GETAWAYS WRITTEN BY BERTIE MCKIBBIN

ERHAPS ONE of the best things about golf is not the time and expertise it takes to master, not hours in the outdoors, nor the camaraderie of playing with family and friends, but all of these rolled together for a walk in some of the most beautiful settings in the Pacific Northwest. As spring warms into summer, take the time, find your people and make your plans for a golf outing that includes many of the other amazing sights and adventures nearby. Golf is at its best when it’s outward-looking and part of a larger plan around food, people and nature. Here are some of our top picks to make those plans and expand your horizons using golf as your muse.

A publication of Statehood Media www.1859oregonmagazine.com www.1889mag.com

Cover: Prospector Golf Course at Suncadia photo: Greg Sweney/Suncadia 2024 DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 3

FROM THE GREEN

Black Butte Ranch (photo: Visit Central Oregon)

Wildhorse Resort Golf Course (photo: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)

WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO

BLACK BUTTE RANCH

Eagle Crest Resort lies placidly in Central Oregon’s banana belt in the high desert of Redmond. Its three courses include two eighteen-hole championship par 72 courses and an eighteen-hole executive course, all surrounded by the beautiful Cascade Range. Niblick & Greene’s in the Clocktower Building has a full-service bar and Oregon craft beers galore. Aerie Café in The Lodge is great for breakfast and grab-and-go items. The casual Silverleaf Café serves pizza, tacos and salads alongside a full bar and live music. Check in at The Lodge for a weekend of luxurious linens in the high desert. There are miles of trails to walk to unwind or as a golf substitute and a full-service spa for all of the things that need attention.

The course at Wildhorse Resort & Casino opens your mind and eyes to the Blue Mountains. This 7,000-yard course has five lakes, dozens of sand bunkers and is rated as one of America’s top casino resort courses. The Wildhorse Clubhouse Bar & Grill is that reward for a long day on a long course. Unwind with an Oregon huckleberry jalapeño margarita or the Mother of Pearl, the official cocktail of the Masters. Start with a Wildhorse Cobb, adorned in slow-roasted pork, crispy fried avocado, egg, shredded cheddar, more veggies and ranch dressing. Because this is Pendleton, someone in the group should cowboy up with the Cowboy Burger, a stack of beef, bacon, an onion ring, cheese and a smothering barbeque sauce. Of course, there’s always the casino itself for trying your next shots down the roulette fairway!

Black Butte has long been a generational retreat for Pacific Northwesterners and never needed to do too much to maintain its allure. Recently, the 53-year-old resort unveiled a new elegant modern lodge with blonde wood finishes, three fireplaces, a restaurant, bar and gasping views of the Three Sisters peaks. The dark beauty that is Black Butte overlooks the iconic Black Butte Ranch Glaze Meadow course, in a placid setting in the Deschutes National Forest. Designed by architect John Fought, Glaze Meadow has elevated greens and views of Mount Washington and North Sister in the Cascade Range. This resort is perfect for a family adventure, with horse stables, hiking, tennis courts, restaurants and a full spa for pampering. In between golf days, hike the steep trail to the top of Black Butte and celebrate your fitness and the gorgeous national forest all around.

Learn more: www.eagle-crest.com/golf-course

Learn more: www.wildhorseresort.com/resort/golf

Learn more: www.blackbutteranch.com/golf

PENDLETON, OREGON

EAGLE CREST RESORT REDMOND, OREGON

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2024

SISTERS, OREGON

TEE UP WHERE THE PROS PLAY “One of America’s top casino golf courses.” - Golf Digest

SUMMER 2024

Three year host of the Epson Tour, Road to the LPGA Tournament, where top players are annually awarded membership into the LPGA.

With over 1,100 Vegas-style slots, table games, delicious restaurants, a full entertainment lineup and two championship golf courses, you’ll find endless ways to play!

STAY & PLAY PACKAGES AVAILABLE CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • DINING • FUNPLEX 05898.TT.02.24

FROM THE GREEN

SUNRIVER RESORT

QUAIL RIDGE GOLF COURSE

CEDAR BEND GOLF COURSE

Long the gold standard of golf in Oregon, Sunriver Resort’s four courses include Caldera Links, Woodlands, Meadows and the famed Crosswater, one of Golf Digest’s top American courses. Though golf may be at its heart, Sunriver is a year-round resort with dozens of restaurants, hiking and biking trails into the Deschutes National Forest and a village center with shops and sports gear rentals. Recreation abounds with pools, hot tubs and private cabanas in the summer. Take the kids to the Sunriver Nature Center & Observatory to teach them the wonders of the natural and celestial worlds. When your golf day is done, head to the Village Bar & Grill or Marcello’s Cucina Italiana for dinner and a cocktail.

When you roll into Baker City, two things are evident: This city has a historic past worth learning about, and it sits between two mountain ranges, the Elkhorns to the east and the Wallowas to the west. The third thing then manifests—this place is special. So, too, with Baker City’s eighteen-hole public golf course, Quail Ridge. For just $31 per round for adults, you can experience some of the cleanest Eastern Oregon air and in the view of Oregon’s iconic mountain ranges while you unwittingly walk in the footsteps of FDR’s New Deal. The front nine were part of FDR’s 1936 put Americans back to work program that created many lasting iconic landmarks. Retire to one of the state’s most iconic breweries afterward—Barley Brown’s. Keeping with the historical theme, set thee down at the Historic Geiser Grand Hotel for cocktails served in an 1889-era bar. It’s here that history teaches us that we should definitely learn its lesson, then repeat.

If you’re planning an excursion to the Southern Oregon Coast, bring your clubs for the ninehole gem that is Gold Beach’s Cedar Bend Golf Course. While others are spending a fortune for prestige, take on nine or eighteen holes on this coastal course designed by John Zoller, the designer of Fiddler’s Green in Eugene and RedTail in Beaverton. The second nine is playing the front nine backward. The entire course is a par-72 measuring 5,231 yards to 6,288 yards. Laid-back golf at its purest, you will encounter Roosevelt elk, red-tailed hawks and blacktailed deer. Just 14 miles north of Gold Beach, golfing at Cedar Bend is often part of a Rogue River float trip or mountain biking outing. Nonetheless, Cedar Bend offers a stress-free version of an otherwise nervy game. Drink in the coastal air and then hit Barnacle Bistro for locally sourced seafood goodness.

SUNRIVER, OREGON

Learn more: www.sunriverresort.com/golf

BAKER CITY, OREGON

Learn more: www.quailridgebakercity.com

Crosswater Golf Course at Sunriver Resort (photo: Visit Central Oregon)

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2024

GOLD BEACH, OREGON

Learn more: www.cedarbendgolf.com

WHERE TO PLAY

Running Y Resort (photo: Running Y Resort)

OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47

CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40

EAGLE CREST RESORT www.eagle-crest.com Redmond, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course

GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82

INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59

OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2024

OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335

RUNNING Y RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95

SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175

SUNRIVER RESORT www.sunriverresort.com Sunriver, Oregon Length from back tees: varies by course

TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190

*Note: Course lengths are given in yards

WHERE TO PLAY

Kalispel Golf and Country Club (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)

WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT

The Golf Club at Newcastle (photo: The Golf Club at Newcastle)

www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79

BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH

STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)

SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $75-$139

SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38

www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100

GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95

THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165

THE HOME COURSE www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49

INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49

PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB

THE RESORT AT PORT LUDLOW

www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109

www.portludlowresort.com Port Ludlow, Washington Length from back tees: 6,861 $30-$55

PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA

WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB

www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139

www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155

WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2024

IDAHO THE COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99

PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56

TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards

Your

GOLF adventure awaits.

TravelBakerCounty.com

2801 Indiana Avenue Baker City, Oregon

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Come for the Golf, Stay for the Adventure Located in the foothills of the Cascade mountains amidst carefully preserved wetlands and breathtaking meadows, Sunriver Resort offers 63 holes of the best golf in the West. Tee off on one of our four-award-winning courses, then kayak down the Deschutes River, bike along 40 miles of paved nature paths, explore evergreen forests on horseback, and more. Stay in one of our resort rooms or vacation homes. Sunriver Resort is the Pacific Northwest’s treasured outpost for golf and adventure.

Plan your next great golf adventure at SunriverResort.com/Golf

1859 Oregon's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Golf Northwest | March/April 2024

Articles inside

7 Wellness Destinations to Reboot and Recharge This Spring

Northwest Getaway: Whitefish, Montana