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Oregon’s Magazine




Designing for Small Spaces


Hike Corvallis to the Sea

Our Winter Margarita

January | February 2019



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Bridging the Gap photography by Patrick Prothe Cape Creek Bridge, near Heceta Head, is one of many bridges along Highway 101 in Oregon. Photographer Patrick Prothe set out to show the timeless design of these iconic coastal bridges, many built in the 1920s and 1930s. (pg. 70)

The Romanesque arches of Cape Creek Bridge, opened in 1932, gracefully connect Highway 101 at Heceta Head south of Yachats. Enjoy the lighthouse and nearby Cape Perpetua, which offers coastal and forest hiking trails.


At Silvies Valley Ranch, near Seneca, horseback riding is just the beginning of outdoor adventure.

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019 • volume 55

56 Oregon Escapes From rustic beginnings, today Oregon has dozens of destination resorts. We picked out some favorites. written by Sheila G. Miller


The Ripple Effect

Connecting The Coast

An OSU professor takes another shot at warning the world about climate change—will it work this time?

Along Oregon’s coastline are some of the state’s most beautiful—and historic—bridges, many dating from the 1930s.

Talia Jean Galvin

62 written by Kevin Max

photography by Patrick Prothe 4          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE




Start the new year on a high note, with event ideas, new music and an Oregon read.


Get out and about with some ideas for beer travels, healthy dining options and the ever-popular Oregon Truffle Festival.


You might not know it, but a variety of chili peppers can grow in Oregon—and they make everything more delicious.


A Portland interior designer proves that a small space can still be chic. Plus, how to get a professional-looking gallery wall.


Yvonne Michaud is paralyzed, but she’s more interested in having fun than in inspiring you at the grocery store.



Frank Howarth, of Frank Makes YouTube fame, takes woodworking seriously, but not so seriously that he won’t make a wooden version of the Death Star.


GoCamp delivers dreams in the form of that camper van vacation you’ve fantasized about.


New restaurants open up around the state, including the long-awaited Din Tai Fung in a suburban Portland mall.


He’s retired, but Richard Little does his part to help pollination from his backyard in Sweet Home.


Oregon City is home to a 40-acre donkey sanctuary, and it’s as adorable as it sounds.



48 12 13 94 96

Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time

Soul River Inc. brings vets and at-risk teens together, then helps them help each other.


Feel small at the Tillamook Air Museum, housed in a huge WWII-era hangar.


Corvallis to the Oregon Coast? Thanks to the Corvallis-to-the-Sea Partnership, that 60-mile trail will soon be a reality.


The Hoxton Portland brings British chic to Old Town, complete with breakfast bags and “high street prices” in the minibar.


Oregon’s Adventure Coast—Coos Bay and its surrounds—combines stunning beauty with outdoor experiences.


photo by Talia Jean Galvin The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch Long Western Vest worn by model by O’FIELD Apparel ( (see Oregon Escapes, pg. 56)

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Bozeman, Montana, is a year-round vacation destination that still feels like a small ski town.


I-5, Exit 99 • Canyonville, OR • Info 800.548.8461 • Hotel Res 888.677.7771


PATRICK PROTHE Photographer Gallery

JAMES SINKS Writer Travel Spotlight

JONI KABANA Writer and Photographer My Workspace

AMIRA MAKANSI Writer Adventure

Highway 101 along the Oregon Coast is one of the most beautiful drives in the world from the top of the state to the bottom. Connecting the communities along the coast is a series of artful bridges mostly designed by Conde McCullough, and built in the 1920s and 30s. I have been on a quest since 2011 to celebrate these historic bridges. Ever the dreamer, I want to show what’s possible if we slow down, and “see” what lies before us. (pg. 70)

Some things you encounter can make you feel in awe, and a bit small. The selfless service of veterans is one of those things. And then, in a structural sense, there’s the massive World War II-era blimp hangar that still towers over the verdant cow-filled pastures outside Tillamook. Inside, among military memorabilia, jets and the vaulted wooden ceiling that soars overhead, I felt—well—small. (pg. 80)

While on assignment in Africa during the past several years, I developed a great affinity for donkeys while witnessing their invaluable role in everyday work flow. And they are so cute! From carrying heavy loads to leading treks in high mountain ranges, the donkey is an astonishing animal. It saddened me to know these wonderful creatures are often abused. Getting the assignment to write about and photograph the loving and strenuous efforts involved in rescuing them was a great honor. (pg. 52)

I have long been enchanted with the idea of walking on my own two feet from one side of the continent to the other, from coast to coast, sea to sea. When I heard about the modest but still enchanting Corvallis-to-the-Sea trail, which leads from the Willamette River in downtown Corvallis through the coastal mountain range to the Pacific ocean, I had to see it for myself. (pg. 82)

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Tillamook Coast

Lincoln City

Plan your trip today


From Manzanita to Neskowin, experience some of Oregon’s most natural beauty. Lace up your boots for an oceanview hike and bring binoculars to catch rare birds. Relish a seafood dinner followed by a scoop of Tillamook ice cream to savor the region’s fresh flavors. See what less “virtual” and more reality can do for you. Plan your next adventure at

EDITOR Kevin Max





Cindy Miskowiec


Jenny Kamprath

Aaron Opsahl


Cindy Guthrie Jennifer McCammon Jenn Redd


Thor Erickson


Jeremy Storton


Kathryn Bold, Melissa Dalton, Juliet Grable, Katheryn Houghton, Joni Kabana, Amira Makansi, Sophia McDonald, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, James Sinks, Jen Stevenson, Gina Williams, Mackenzie Wilson


Charlotte Dupont, Talia Jean Galvin, Joni Kabana, Amanda Loman, Patrick Prothe

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

10          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


FROM THE EDITOR JANUARY IS A TIME for rebirth, new plans and big ideas. Let’s start with the elephant in the room—global warming. Note: If you don’t believe in global warming, stop reading here, because this piece isn’t for you. OSU professor Bill Ripple triggered a longawaited eruption of support, awareness and environmental concern when he lead-authored “World Scientists’ Warning to Humanity: A Second Notice” for the journal BioScience. The report was a shocker that updated the environmental data from the original notice, twenty-five years ago. In The Ripple Effect on page 62, we evaluate in layman’s terms what’s at stake for this planet as envisioned through the research of Ripple and others. To put it in local terms, if you like fishing, skiing, clean water, seafood, or really, eating any agriculture product, this is a must-read. Next, we’re going to help you with your New Year’s resolutions straightaway. I resolve to eat more Oregon truffles. Thought you might, too, so we present our favorite accessible yet luxurious esteemed event, the Oregon Truffle Festival Grand Truffle Dinner with creations from acclaimed chefs Greg and Gabi Denton (Bistro Agnes, Ox) and Gregory Gourdet (Departure). See page 24 for more information. I resolve to be more adventurous in my beer consumption. We anticipated that, too. On Saturday, February 16, the all-things-beer Zwickelmania kicks off around Portland. New brews, games, special pricing, it’s all happening. The following Saturday, Zwickelmania plays out in participating breweries around Oregon. See Beerlandia (page 22) for more hop-related festivities around the state.

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This is the year I want to add a dose of culture and salt to my life. That’s why we’re talking about the FisherPoets Gathering in Astoria, February 23-24. Take in the verse and rhyme of this growing fisherpoet society. (See page 16) I resolve to get out and have more old-fashioned fun. Check out the Old Time Music Gathering January 16-20 at five venues around Portland. Learn to square dance, sign up for an instrument workshop or just come for the sweet sounds of Appalachian strings (page 18). Finally, I resolve to chill more. We’ve assembled the perfect chill package with our Winter Margarita (page 23) and the new novel If, Then by Oregon author Kate Hope Day. Cheers!

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have a photo that shows off your oregon experience? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. postcard photo by Aaron Harris Photography Sahalie Falls

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fivepine lodge getaway for two Win a romantic getaway to FivePine Lodge in Sisters! One winner will receive a two-night stay at the Serenity Cabin at FivePine Lodge, a couples massage, tickets to the Sisters Movie House, daily membership to the Sisters Athletic Club and more. Contest runs through January 31. Enter online at


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      13


Amanda Loman


pg. 28 Crossroads Farm produces a variety of chili powders.


Tidbits + To-dos

Black Butte Ranch Jam You know Black Butte Ranch as a perfect spot for a Central Oregon getaway. Did you know it also sells its own housemade jams? Made with Oregon strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and marionberries, they’re a great gift for the Oregon fan in your life.

camark y len our da r

Patrick Dixon


Since 1998, fisherpoets and their fans have gathered in Astoria to tell stories, sing songs about the commercial fishing industry, filling the area’s taphouses, galleries and restaurants from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. on February 23 and 24. The event also includes workshops on Friday afternoon and Saturday morning, and a Story Circle, at which fisherpoets tell oral histories and show fishing films.

Discover the magic of wool clothing with wool&, a new brand of women’s dresses from the family that owns and operates Pendleton Woolen Mills and the founder of Wool&Prince. Wool&Prince made a name for itself with the 100-day challenge—that is, wearing the same shirt without washing for a hundred days. The wool& dresses are designed for similar use, with a breathable, quick-drying fabric that resists odor.

FisherPoets Gathering



Oregon’s Willamette Valley. A paradise for the palate.

Oregon Truffle Festival Yamhill Valley Weekend

February 15, 16 & 17

The secret lies deep in ancient volcanic Jory soil. Between the misty foothills of the Cascades and the coastal range, the terroir is elementally perfect for growing world class truffles and wine grapes. The result? A seductive offering of taste encounters that evoke a sense of place like no other. tickets on sale:

angela estate | nicky usa | oregon wine press travel oregon | willamette valley visitors association


Experience the allure of Oregon truffles and wine at the


camark y len our da r

Crater Lake National Park Poster Celebrate the state’s only national park with a poster inspired by the era-specific artwork of the Works Progress Administration. Rob Decker, a Colorado-based artist, has set out to photograph every national park in the country and create WPA-era posters of each. The posters are $35 and are printed on recycled paper with soybased inks.

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Portland Old Time Music Gathering Now entering its twentieth year, the Portland Old Time Music Gathering is a grassroots, volunteer-run four-day music festival. The gathering, this year from January 16 to January 20, focuses on Appalachian-style stringband musicians and features Nokosee Fields as this year’s artist-in-residence. Swing by the various venues for a square dance, performances or a workshop.

Zwickelmania Break your new year’s resolutions at Zwickelmania, a statewide celebration of all things beer. The celebration starts on February 16 in Portland and then continues on February 23 around the rest of Oregon. Participating breweries open them for events like tastings and tours. Bonus—the event is free (the beer may not be) and runs from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. both days.



ne AY GE!s/ďŹ vepi AWODcontest T / GE E A IN az IN EPonmag W FIV9oreg 85 TO at 1 Sisters, Oregon 541.549.5900


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Creation of Crow

Open January 26 through April 7

Organized by the Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art, University of Oregon Made possible by

Smithsonian Affiliate

59800 South Highway 97 | Bend, Oregon 97702 | 541-382-4754 |



Sweet and Serrated bed. makes pop with an edge

Listen on Bandcamp

written by Ben Salmon

THE PORTLAND BAND bed. is built around married couple Alex and Sierra Haager and the music they make, individually and together. Alex plays fuzzy bass chords on almost every song, which gives the band a deeply groovy, almost heavy sound as compared to other indie rock outfits. Sierra plays melodic guitar parts that seem to float above the fray, giving bed. a prettier pop feel than many of its contemporaries. “I think that dynamic is probably the defining principle of our music,” Sierra said. “The only time it ever feels unbalanced is when we try to rock too hard, (so that’s) why we don’t usually rock very hard.” The Haagers met five years ago in San Francisco while playing in separate bands, but they hit it off and have been together ever since. They moved north to Oregon, got married, formed bed., played some shows, scored a spot on Willamette Week’s list of Portland’s best new bands and recorded a debut album with the intention of releasing it in 2016. But it was delayed, Sierra said, after she got pregnant. “Our child is now an intermediate drummer,” she joked. “Stay tuned for more on that.” 20          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY


Nearly three years later, bed. is ready to release its first full-length, Replay, a ninetrack collection of songs that rumble and sparkle in a way that highlights each Haager’s strengths and aesthetic. With songs about life, love, family, anxiety, anger and gender inequality (among other topics), Replay is both sweet and serrated at the same time, like a gleaming gem perched atop a tank churning across muddy ground. “Our skill sets and thought processes have basically no overlap. So on our best days, we’re able to cover a lot of ground, fill in each other’s gaps, and stay out of each other’s ways,” Sierra said. “On bad days, we get tripped up on needing to move at different speeds, but integrating that insight has made bad days less frequent.” That’s internally. Externally, the Haagers have a goal for folks who listen to Replay. “We hope people are able to listen to this album in the car in the rain,” Sierra said, “and feel the crippling beauty and agony of life.”



The Road Not Taken A debut novel takes on visions of what could have been, or could be interview by Sheila G. Miller

IN KATE HOPE DAY’S new novel, If, Then, you can almost feel the gloom and fog of an Oregon mountain town pressing in on you. Put up your hood—the downpour is coming, and it’s not just rain. Day’s book takes us into the lives of a group of neighbors who live near the base of a dormant volcano known as Broken Mountain. Their lives get complicated when they begin seeing flashes of their lives, but different—a mom who didn’t die of cancer, a different partner, a new pregnancy. Day sat down with 1859 to explain just what it is about Oregon that inspired this type of imaginative work. How did you develop the idea for this first novel? It came out of two big life changes—having my first child and moving to Oregon. The main emotional impulse behind the book was trying to understand the feeling when you have your first baby. Writing the book helped me think it through both in terms of time—the person you were before and the person you are after—and then in terms of the idea that there’s just never enough of you. You want to be in two places at once. That’s the central emotional impulse out of which the book grew. That’s where it started for me, but as I got going with it, I felt it was tapping into something much more broad. Everyone can relate to that question of, what would my life be like if I’d taken a different job or married someone else? The other lives you might have had. It’s a very human question.

Kate Hope Day’s debut novel looks at the “what ifs” of life.

And Oregon? I’m from Pennsylvania, though my husband is from the Pacific Northwest. We moved here and I had never been here. I wrote the book basically in tandem with falling in love with this place. I have a kind of outsider’s perspective on Oregon, but I can’t imagine ever leaving. It’s just a magical, weird, wild, beautiful place, and I think that’s all in this book. There’s a lot of mud, and fog. I think every regular thing I did, which didn’t always feel regular to me because I was new to Oregon, made its way into the book—driving through the fog with a baby in the backseat, going on forest hikes with my kids, and learning about mushrooms, and lychen and things like that. There are a lot of storylines to follow in this book, including more

than one for several characters. How did you stay on top of them? I had a lot of charts. I’m working on another book now and it’s not nearly as chart-intense. Each character had their own sort of plot chart. At one point, I had a Google calendar for each of them because I was trying to match it up in terms of weather and climate and what would be typical for Oregon in October. I also would break the book out for each person, so I would read them on their own, and then I’d put them back together. This book took about five years to write, but the first three or four of those I wrote primarily during my kids’ nap times. … It went considerably slower those first few years, and I’d never written a novel, so I was teaching myself how to do it. The next novel is almost done and it has definitely gone faster. It helps that both kids are in school. And I’m getting paid, so I have a workspace now and I can treat it more like a career.


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      21

food + drink


Oregon Brews Traveler written by Jeremy Storton MY FOOT BEGINS to tap anxiously and I keep looking at my watch. I don’t look at the time, but the date. This is how my beer wanderlust begins. Many of us need to take occasional breaks from the humdrum of our lives, or discover some perspective that will improve it. Perhaps we seek adventure or need to affirm what we have is still pretty good. Nonetheless, the road calls and distant lands beckon. This is the premise for winetasting weekends or unspoken trips to Vegas. For me, the thirst for good beer experiences is unquenchable. My wife and children are often my companions as I drag them to another brewery for lunch. They wait patiently while I gab with another brewer about process, flavors and beer

culture blah-de-blah. They are good sports and usually get a glass of wine or ice cream, respectively, out of the deal. Experiences like these, however, are easy. So easy, in fact, that beer- and food-savvy travelers seem to ask a new question: “What else you got?” With beer tourism on the rise and “beercation” slowly becoming a word, beercentric lodging and tours are popping up around the country. Ale Trails in Portland, Bend, Eugene and the North Coast are dandy, but to one-up the beer travel game, one must immerse himself fully in the culture. To that end, I recommend getting out of the usual beer hotspots (I’m talking about you, Portland and Bend!) and set cruise control on the road to brew discoveries.

HOW TO BEERCATION DRINK Out-of-the-way breweries worth visiting: Ashland: Standing Stone Brewing Co. Bandon: Bandon Brewing Co. Boardman: Ordnance Brewing Coos Bay: 7 Devils Brewing Co.

Roseburg: Old 99 Brewing Co.; Two Shy Brewing; Draper’s Draft House Sisters: Three Creeks Brewing

STAY Beer-centric lodges worth checking into:

Depot Bay: Depot Bay Brewing Co.

Rogue B&B (Newport)

Enterprise: Terminal Gravity Brewing

Bunk & Brew (Bend)

Eugene: Alesong Brewing & Blending; Falling Sky Brewing

McMenamins (eight locations in Oregon)

Hood River: Double Mountain Brewery; Logsdon Farmhouse Ales Newberg: Wolves and People


Redmond: Wild Ride Brewing; Kobold Brewing/The Vault

Brewery Bike Tours, Portland www.pedalbiketours. com/oregon-tours/ #oregonbrewerytour

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Oakridge: Brewer’s Union Local 180

Brewvana’s Beer & Barrels BEER TOURS IN BEND Bend Brew Bus Bend Tour Company’s Cycle Pub Bend Trolley Wanderlust’s Shoes, Brews & Views shoes-brews-and-views-snowshoe-tours BEER TOURS IN EUGENE Pacific Pub Cycle

food + drink CLOCKWISE FROM TOP McMenamins has eight hotel properties in Oregon, such as Old St. Francis School in Bend. Wanderlust does snowshoe tours in Central Oregon, beer included. Brewvana offers behind-the-scenes tours in Portland.

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Jordan Hughes, aka Portland’s @highproofpreacher

Winter Margarita 1½ ounces cinnamon-infused Reposado tequila ½ ounce mezcal 1 ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce cranberry spice syrup Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake with ice. Strain over fresh ice into a salt-rimmed glass. Garnish with a lime wheel & skewered cranberries.


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      23

Andrea Johnson

food + drink

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Dogs hunt for truffles during the festival. There are a variety of truffle-themed meals throughout the festival. Meals incorporate truffles in a variety of ways.


Oregon Truffle Festival written by Jen Stevenson THE HOLIDAYS MAY be but a mulled-wine-muted memory, but Christmas is just beginning for Oregon truffle lovers, as a diverse group of local and international farmers, chefs, mycologists, vintners, dog trainers and the truffleobsessed gather in Eugene and Yamhill Valley for winter’s much-anticipated annual Oregon Truffle Festival. Spanning two fungi-filled weekends in January and February, the fourteen-year-old festival is ripe (literally) with opportunities to celebrate and sample Oregon’s black and white gold. Score tickets to the decadent six-course Grand Truffle Dinner featuring acclaimed Portland chefs Greg and Gabi Denton (Bistro Agnes, Ox) and Gregory Gourdet (Departure), learn about the latest advances in truffle science from the world’s leading experts during the two-day Truffle Growers’ Forum, follow along with professional four-legged foragers during an authentic Willamette Valley wine country truffle hunt before sitting down to a lavish luncheon, or sniff, sample and shop your way through the Fresh Truffle Marketplace. For more information and tickets, visit www. 24          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE




Junction City, known for its popular 57-yearold summer Scandinavian Festival, also has a robust wine-tasting scene, so take a scenic detour off the interstate, rochambeau to see who gets designated driver duty, and start sipping. Sample estate pinot noirs and pinot gris at Walnut Ridge, where the 25 acres of dry-farmed vineyards are surrounded by bucolic pasture land and forest, then continue up the road to Pfeiffer Winery, a former chicken ranch and sheep farm where you can sip small-lot pinots in the peaceful water garden. A cork’s throw away, a personable flock of Katahdin-Dorper sheep graze the vineyards at rustically charming appointmentonly Antiquum Farm; book the tour and tasting a few days ahead of time. Five minutes north, find lushly landscaped Brigadoon Wine Company. Uncork a bottle of riesling, unpack your picnic and stay a while.

Kathryn Elsesser

John Valls


In Eugene, start your day with one of the best and most beautiful brunches in town, at Airstream-trailer-bound Lion & Owl, secreted away in The Eugene Backyard Farmer parking lot. Burn off your praline-topped oat and almond pancakes with a bike ride along the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Path, then hit the Eugene Ale Trail. Don’t miss Claim 52 brewery, where the rich red raspberry gose over vanilla bean ice cream is summer in a glass. At new The Wheel Apizza Pub, pair your Haze for Daze IPA with a New Haven-style pie, then walk a block to WildCraft Cider Works for wild fermented and unpasteurized hard ciders crafted with whole Oregon fruit. If something a bit stronger is in order, sample the exceptional small batch “farm-to-flask” vodka and gin at Thinking Tree Spirits’ cozy tasting room, then explore the quietly hip Whiteaker neighborhood. Come in for an afternoon pick-me-up and stay for a chat at personable roaster-owner Okon Udosenata’s Equiano Coffee Company. Order scoops of paleo-friendly maple dark chocolate ice cream at Vanilla Jill’s, and catch happy hour at laidback Izakaya Meiji. If curious about Eugene’s food cart scene, dig into the crispy fried chicken and waffles topped with fresh blackberries, mint and marionberry syrup at Buck Buck, or a bowl of piping hot pork and chicken turmeric noodle soup at Da Nang Vietnamese Eatery. Head over to the 5th Street Public Market to browse the boutiques (don’t miss the Will Leather Goods boxcar stationed in the parking lot) and shop for edible souvenirs at the Provisions Market Hall before settling in for an elegant supper at French-inspired Marché.

If the night’s still young, walk over to Party Downtown for a nettle whiskey sour or Don’t Beet a Dead Horseradish, a bracing blend of Kachka horseradish vodka, pickled beet brine and Starvation Alley cranberry juice. A ten-minute drive east, sleepy small-town Springfield has a few fun epicurean finds. Housed in a lovingly renovated spire-topped former stone church—glittering stained glass windows and all—the lively new PublicHouse is a taproom, food hall and beer garden rolled into one good-timey community hub. Go casual with a pint of Thursty Hills IPA and a maple-bacon tomato jam-topped burger at Plank Town Brewing Company, or get dolled up for dinner at new George and Violet’s Steakhouse, which mixes retro American steakhouse charm with contemporary eats like mussels in a smoked pork and white wine broth, grass-fed Oregon tenderloin topped with Dungeness crab butter and homemade doughnut holes with preserved cherries and shiso. Take the winery-dotted Territorial Highway south of town, stopping at hilltop-hugging Iris Vineyards, where you might think you’ve apparated to a Mediterranean villa, before or after a few glasses of the Steelhead Syrah. At grand King Estate, winery tours are offered on the hour until 5 p.m. daily (call 541-685-5189 for reservations). Afterward, plan on lunch or dinner at the lovely onsite restaurant, which sources ingredients from the estate’s 30 acres of organic gardens and orchards. Beer buffs, check out Alesong brewery—sitting just slightly south of King Estate’s entrance, it pours barrelaged Belgian-inspired ales like the French 75 saison and Touch of Brett: Mandarina, a 2018 Great American Beer Festival medal winner.


Homey touches abound at downtown Eugene’s luxuriously cozy Inn at the 5th, where you can order a loaner blanket from the downstairs Pendleton Woolen Mills shop to keep you company during your stay, sip local rosé and riesling at the friendly Sweet Cheeks Winery tasting room that sits approximately 10 feet from your courtyard balcony, and eat freshly baked bacon-and-potato breakfast pizza on the Provisions Market Hall patio in your slippers—all without ever leaving the property. A mile away, on the edge of the University of Oregon campus, the 14-room Excelsior Inn woos with European villa-style charm and a romantic Italian restaurant, where Naples-born chef-owner Maurizio Paparo prepares hearty homemade breakfasts and rich pasta dinners with dairy and produce from his 5-acre farm.

food + drink BEST PLACES FOR

NURTURING NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS HOLIDAY Join the kale and kimchi-loving crowd at Stumptown Coffee founder Duane Sorenson’s latest venture, a fresh-faced, plant-based cafe set inside the former Roman Candle space on lively Division Street. Chef Ryan Kennedy’s creative, hyperseasonal menu is as visual as it is delicious—salads are a crisp kaleidoscope of farmers market finds and scarlet-skinned beetpickled eggs top a jumble of charred broccoli, sundried tomatoes and crunchy kelp noodles. 3377 SE DIVISION ST. PORTLAND

NW RAW This sleek organic juice bar fuels a steady stream of fleece-clad Southern Oregon outdoorspeople powering up with almond butter and raspberry chia jam-slathered Painted Hills toast and Grizzly Peak granola bowls, en route to Pacific Crest Trail hikes or the Mount Ashland slopes. The refrigerator case is lined with cold-pressed signature juice blends and grab-and-go bowls; or, grab a seat by the fireplace and stay for a massaged kale, purple cabbage and citrus salad with probiotic tahini dressing, the house-made cashew coconut curry over rainbow quinoa. 370 E MAIN ST. ASHLAND


Smallwares’ fried kale with candied bentons bacon, fish sauce and mint.

Smallwares written by Jen Stevenson

There’s something for every diet at this affable pet shop-cafe hybrid in Joseph. Chef-owner Arion Canniff and wife Amy Wolf combined their love of cooking, retail and pets in one eclectically cozy space, with a fusion-forward menu based on Canniff’s extensive travels—think Thai purple rice and curried mango salad with spicy Sriracha cashews and chicken and house-fermented kimchi soup. Then buy Fido a snazzy new leash and take a walk against the backdrop of the spectacular snow-capped Wallowas.

TO THE GREAT delight of fans left devastated by the 2016 closure of chef Johanna Ware’s “inauthentic Asian” restaurant, and only somewhat mollified by her ensuing counter-service spinoff (Wares) inside Sandy Boulevard’s The Zipper food court, Smallwares has risen again in the former Chalino space on NE Fremont Street—with the same signature red shelves and fishsauce-splashed fried kale and candied bacon, plus a few new culinary twists. As usual, Ware’s menu pulls no flavor punches— try the Dungeness crab and pickled pear salad in Korean chili dressing, hanger steak with curried tomato jam over smoky braised greens, and seared scallops with yuzu brown butter and chickpea miso purée. Oyster lovers, get in on the daily dollar happy hour bivalves doused in fish sauce vinaigrette. Brunchers, arrive at the stroke of 10 a.m. for a hangover-banishing kimchi juicespiked Bloody Mary, loco moco smothered in togarashi gravy, and buttery pandan mochi French toast with Sichuan-infused crème anglaise. One word of warning: if you’ve fallen hard for the spicy chicken ramen with braised greens and garlic chili paste at Wares, it’s not on the menu here—you’ll just have to drown your sorrows in a bottle of bright, floral Watari Bune Junmai Ginjo sake, or The Gin cocktail, a refreshing mix of Beefeater, tamarind and Thai basil—25-milligram CBD “float” optional.



FIX & REPEAT Set in the revitalized Box Factory building’s restaurant row, this bright and beautiful superfood-stocked Bend cafe dishes up plant-based fare such as green tea, ginger and spinach-spiked Meet Your Matcha smoothies, vibrant açai and blackberry smoothie bowls with goji granola, and hearty savory specials like butternut squash and black bean chili and hummus avocado sandwiches built on Sparrow Bakery’s smoked salt bagels. 555 NW ARIZONA AVE. BEND


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farm to table

Farm to Table

Hot Stuff Oregon-grown hot peppers can spice up any meal written by Sophia McDonald photography by Amanda Loman

Crossroads Farm serrano pepper powder, espelette smoked chili powder and smoked ancho chile powder surrounded by dried jalapeños, chipotles and smoked cherry peppers.

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farm to table

CHILI PEPPERS HAVE long been considered an aphrodisiac. The theory goes that the capsaicin, or spicy compound, in these colorful vegetables triggers a release of endorphins as it hits the tongue. That little release of pleasure makes your body warm and ready for other pleasurable activities. Oregon-grown hot peppers aren’t available in stores or farmers markets around Valentine’s Day, but those lucky enough to have stocked up on chili powders and fermented hot sauces from Crossroads Farm near Eugene can still get their spicy fix. Debbie Tilley, who operates the 25-acre organic farm with her husband, Ben, has been producing value-added goods for decades. She used to specialize in dried flower arrangements and ornamental produce, including strings of chilis similar to the ristras found all over New Mexico. “About [the year] 2000, dried flowers died. Dead in the water,” she said. “No one wanted them anymore. We realized at that point we had to do something else.” Tilley had always been attracted to warm-weather crops such as peppers and tomatoes. “Everyone said peppers couldn’t be grown in the Willamette Valley because it was too short of a growing season, but I’d already been doing it,” she said. “Fifty to 90 degrees is the ideal growing condition in my view. They may not be as hot as the ones that come from the Southwest, because that’s a real hot, dry climate.” Still, she suspected she could make a viable business with them. She also knew that growing food for the fresh market wouldn’t be enough to keep the farm profitable. “To make it as a small farmer you’ve basically got to do something with your product that extends your season,” she said. “That’s the value-added product side of it. I had all these peppers, and I didn’t want anything to go to waste. I started drying them because I had already perfected drying stuff with my dried flowers. It wasn’t that hard to convert over to drying peppers.” Ben Tilley smokes the peppers before they’re dehydrated, ground and bottled. Tilley sells between sixteen and eighteen chili powders, including paprika, cayenne, chipotle and guajillo. She also carries some whole dried chilis. She credits their sons, Ben Jr. and Nathan, with the idea for the hot sauces. They own Agrarian Ales, a popular farmhouse brewery located on the property. Their experience with fermenting led her to try similar techniques on hot sauces. She now sells as many as thirteen varieties. “Even though I grow all the hot stuff, I don’t really like hot food that much,” she said. Her favorite sauce is the mild jalapeño lime, which she uses on quesadillas, tacos, chile rellenos, eggs and hamburgers.


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farm to table

Debbie Tilley, who runs Crossroads Farm with her husband, Ben, laughs with a customer at the farm’s stall at the Eugene Holiday Market.

Tilley’s products are available exclusively at the Lane County Farmers Market and Eugene Holiday Market. In March and April, she sells pepper seedlings in addition to the chili powders and hot sauces. They sustain her through June and July, when the first fresh peppers become available. Beginning in August, she brings approximately sixty types of peppers to market, including mild bells and red roasters, spicy jalapeños and serranos, and smoking-hot Carolina reapers. Through late summer and into fall, the enticing smell of roasted peppers permeates Tilley’s end of the farmers market. Every weekend, Ben Tilley fire-roasts poblano, Anaheim and other chilis in a rotating basket set over an open flame. The charred peppers are bagged, then frozen or sold immediately to drooling customers. The southern Willamette Valley’s pepper season can last into November now. Climate change has pushed Tilley’s average frost date from mid-October to nearly Thanksgiving. With the value-added products, her sales last until the holiday season in December. Thanks to their long shelf life, her products continue to bring a little spice to her customers well into the new year. In 2011, Oregon passed the Farm Direct Marketing Law, which made it easier for small operations like Crossroads Farm to create value-added products from their produce. This practice has many benefits for growers and communities. “It allows for these diversified income streams,” said Dr. Lauren 30          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


Gwin, associate director of the Center for Small Farms and Community Food Systems at Oregon State University. “It creates new types of products you can sell that bring in new customers. It allows for season extension. We’ve talked to farmers who, in the early part of the season, don’t have a lot of fresh product to put on the tables at farmers markets. But if they have value-added products, they can put those on the table, and it fills in the booth and draws people in.” Creating value-added products gives existing farm employees something to do during the slow season and can even create new jobs, should those small businesses decide to scale up. Tilley’s value-added products or fresh peppers can be used to craft a delicious Valentine’s Day dinner. Cebiche “cinco elementos,” a hot and cold appetizer from Doris Platt-Rodriquez, co-owner of Portland’s Andina, calls for a Peruvian pepper called ají limo. Habanero peppers make a decent substitute. Another option for the main part of the meal is mini baconwrapped meatloaf with harissa barbecue sauce. James Fink, chef-owner of Wild Oregon Foods in Bend, recommends shaping each meatloaf like a heart for a romantic touch. No Valentine’s Day is complete without a chocolate dessert. Ally Fortin, pastry chef for Irving Street Kitchen in Portland, shares a recipe for Mexican hot chocolate cake with a healthy spoonful of cayenne pepper.

farm to table

Wild Oregon Foods’ Mini Meatloafs with Harissa BBQ Sauce.

Mini Meatloafs with Harissa BBQ Sauce Wild Oregon Foods / BEND SERVES 8 4 pieces Hill’s Bacon, par-cooked 4 minutes, cooled and cut in half 1 pound Rickety Bridge Ranch ground beef 1/2 carrot, brunoise 1/2 celery, brunoise 1 tablespoon sea salt 1/4 cup rice panko 1 egg, beaten 2 tablespoons Mt. Hood seasoning   from Savory Spice Shop  

Oregon Recipes

Spice Up 2019 Mexican Hot Chocolate Cake

½ cup coffee 1 cup milk ½ cup canola oil ½ ounce vanilla extract

Irving Street Kitchen / Portland Ally Fortin YIELDS ONE BUNDT PAN

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons   all-purpose flour 2 cups plus 3 tablespoons   granulated sugar 1¼ cups cocoa powder 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon   baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 eggs

Generously spray a bundt pan with cooking oil and preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients and set the bowl aside. In a large bowl, whisk together all wet ingredients and set the bowl aside. Carefully mix the wet and dry ingredients, but be careful not to overmix. Pour the mixture into a bundt pan and bake for about 45 minutes to an hour, or until the cake springs back to the touch and a wooden skewer comes out clean.

Cebiche De Pescado Cinco Elementos

Andina / PORTLAND Doris Platt-Rodriquez SERVES 4              

1 pound fresh white fish with firm meat such as ono, sea bass, grouper or red snapper 1 small red onion, cored and sliced into julienne strips 1 cup lime juice 1 aji limo (lemon drop pepper), seeded, rinsed in cold water and julienned ¼ cup julienned fresh cilantro leaves Salt to taste 1 ear fresh corn on the cob, husked and boiled for 2 minutes

1 yam, boiled until tender when pierced, peeled 4 fresh butter lettuce leaves, rinsed   and dried Cut the fish into ½-inch cubes. Place julienned red onions in a medium bowl of ice water. Add fish to water and rinse gently. Drain, reserving fish and onion. Place fish and onion in a large bowl and pour lime juice over them. Add aji limo and cilantro. Mix gently and add salt to taste. Cut the ear of corn through the cob into ¾ inch-thick rounds, to be eaten with your fingers. Slice yam into four ¾ inch-thick rounds. Place a butter lettuce leaf in a shallow plate with a quarter of the cebiche, then add two rounds of corn and a slice of yam. Serve immediately.

FOR HARISSA BBQ SAUCE 15 dried arbol chiles, break and remove   seeds/stems 2 dried guajillo chiles, break and remove   seeds/stems 1 dried ancho chili, break and remove   seeds/stems 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted 11/2 teaspoons coriander seeds, toasted 3 garlic cloves, smashed 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon tomato paste 11/2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 cup olive oil 1 cup Portland ketchup Set bacon aside, then mix all other ingredients together with your hands. Portion meatloaf into 2-ounce loafs. Wrap with cooled, pre-cooked bacon and skewer with a toothpick. Bake bacon-wrapped meatloaf at 375 degrees for about 15 minutes, until bacon is slightly browned. Spread a small amount of Harissa BBQ Sauce on a plate and place meatloaf on sauce. FOR HARISSA BBQ SAUCE Place chiles in large mixing bowl and pour boiling water over top. Cover with plastic and let sit at least 30 minutes until soft. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup liquid. Wear disposable gloves if you like— the oil on the dried chiles will stay on your hands for a long time after processing. Toast cumin and coriander seeds in a sauté pan over medium heat until you can smell them, about 2-3 minutes. Place seeds and garlic in a food processor and pulse until a paste forms. Add chiles and pulse again until a paste forms. Add lemon, vinegar, tomato paste, paprika and salt. Process until almost smooth. With the processor running slowly add olive oil and blend until incorporated. Add ketchup and blend. Cover and refrigerate. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      31

farm to table

Home Grown Chef

The Spice of Life written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont

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farm to table

Three Jackass Rub Thor Erickson

4 ounces fresh red jalapeño peppers or 1 ounce, dried 8 ounces fresh poblano   peppers or 2 ounces, dried 6 ounces fresh banana hot   peppers or 1.5 ounces, dried 1 tablespoon granulated garlic 1 teaspoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon granulated salt 1 teaspoon black pepper  

Wash and slice the peppers into ¼-inch slices. Lay them out onto dehydrator trays and dry for 8 to 10 hours at 125 degrees, or until they are completely dried through. They should crack when you bend them. Blend the peppers in a spice grinder or food processor until they are as smooth as possible. Sift out the larger chunks and process those until you’ve broken down the pods as much as possible. Combine the chili powder with the garlic, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Mix well. Use as you would any chili rub or seasoning blend.

Grill these chops over high heat.

MY WIFE’S BROTHER-IN-LAW is a great cook. He has no formal training in the culinary arts, yet Kelley is one of the best cooks I know. Not only does he have the right instincts for flavor and texture, he practices great technique, has a mind for weight and volume conversion, and keeps a seriously clean kitchen. I know that his upbringing as the second youngest son of six kids in 1960s, pre-Disney-World Orlando played into this. When he was not horrifying his mother by repairing motorcycles in the living room while blasting Lynyrd Skynyrd, he was helping her make supper. A decade ago, well after Kelley had moved to Tigard, he gave me a Christmas present—a quart-sized Mason jar of what his homemade label declared “Three Jackass Rub.” He and a couple of neighborhood buddies had made the spice blend, primarily of their

home-grown hot peppers, dried and ground into a coarse powder the color of a rusted Harley-Davidson tailpipe. “It’s a secret recipe,” Kelley said, puffing up his barrel chest and inviting me to smoke a cigar on the back deck. The rub was magical. The flavor of the dried peppers popped with dried fruit, smoke and tobacco. I used it in many ways, spicing meat, fish and fowl— grilled ribs, salmon and roasted chicken were obvious choices. Then I went offroad, lacing it on dirty rice, scrambled eggs, aioli—reveling in maverick uses for a rub such as this. I spent years trying to nail exactly what was in the mysterious mix conjured by this suburban trio of self-proclaimed jackasses. Here is my educated guess, along with a recipe for using it in “Street Survivors” grilled pork chops. Blast Skynryd’s “Second Helping,” and have one, too.

Street Survivors Spice-Rubbed Grilled Pork Chops Thor Erickson SERVES 6  

6 bone-in pork chops, about 1-inch thick (10 ounces each) ⅓ cup spice rub (recipe above) Salt and pepper

Pat pork chops dry, and sprinkle with a bit of salt and pepper, add the rub and rub it in. Let the chops sit at room temperature for about 45 minutes to an hour. Meanwhile, pre-heat grill to high heat. Grill the pork chops until, by using a meat thermometer, you see they’ve reached 125 degrees internal temperature. Let them rest for about 5 to 7 minutes. Serve with your favorite slaw.


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      33

home + design

Home Sweet Home

An interior designer turns a small Portland condo into a personal haven

Christopher Dibble

written by Melissa Dalton

Kristen Siefkin created a gallery wall with her favorite pieces of art.

KRISTEN SIEFKIN IS no stranger to reinvention. The Portland-based interior designer first became intrigued with her field while working as a public relations professional for McMenamins Hotels, Pubs and Breweries in the late ’90s. “Design had never really been on my radar,” Siefkin said. “I always hear designers say, ‘I grew up rearranging my family’s living room,’ and that was never me. I learned about design from Mike McMenamin, who was obsessed with the details and history and creating layers and creating spaces that people talk about.” After that unofficial introduction, Siefkin studied the topic formally at the Heritage School of Interior Design and swapped her PR career in 2015 to start her own firm, Interior Design Alchemy. In the interim years, she cultivated her passion for design via her own home renovations, designing four houses over 34          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


ten years, and experimenting with several different styles in the process, from a traditional Tudor and Craftsman to a contemporary LEED-certified abode. “I had the opportunity to test my mettle with all of these different aesthetic styles,” Siefkin said. Then a 2017 divorce led her to a condo in the Pearl District and her newest design challenge—personalizing a small space without much innate architectural character. During her real estate search, she saw “a lot of places without a lot of moxie,” Siefkin said. She chose the best of the bunch—a one-bedroom unit that juxtaposes large windows and hardwood floors with an industrial-tinged concrete ceiling and exposed ductwork. “While I can create my own space with my things, I think having an interesting canvas to start with is even better,” Siefkin said. Here’s how she applied her design philosophy to her new home.


Everything fits perfectly in this kitchen. Even two chefs. Neil Kelly designs not only to make each home more beautiful, but also to heighten its functionality. Both owners of this home love to cook. Both are tall. And both wanted a roomy work space with higher counters that they could enjoy together. Certainly, the results are beautiful, but it’s the smiles of the hosts and their guests that tell the whole story. Whether you’re seeking to perfect your kitchen, a bath, or your whole home, Neil Kelly can help you make it yours in every way. GET INSPIRED AT THE RESOLVE TO REMODEL EVENTS STARTING SATURDAY, JANUARY 26TH!



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home + design

Play favorites Siefkin’s process always starts with the “discovery” phase, which delves into the specific items a client feels are representative of them. “I like incorporating things that people already own that they love,” she said. For her home, that’s art. At the top of her list of condo search criteria was to find a place with enough wall space for her extensive collection. Now, every piece on display is a sliver of her personal history, from the striking multimedia painting she spied in artist Lane Van Doren’s studio on a trip in San Miguel de Allende ten years ago, to the Kokeshi doll recently gifted by a happy client. “I brought only the things that made my heart beat fast,” Siefkin said. “In a lot of ways that’s been a really good exercise for me, because I’m surrounded by the things that I absolutely adore.”

Get the right fit Décor should always suit the scale of the room. In Siefkin’s condo, that relationship is tricky, since her 500-square-foot floorspace is limited, but the ceilings are 12 feet high. She made sure she got the proportions right in subtle, creative ways. The gallery wall for her art collection climbs nearly to the ceiling, then down to the floor. Above the couch, a suspended mobile composed of slim brass rods and felted airplane shapes is an airy way to bring the ceiling down. Vignettes atop tall cabinets and kitchen cupboards also give furnishings the illusion of more height. In the living room, an extra-long couch and 7-foot walnut credenza, both from local boutique Hip Furniture, were chosen not just for looks, but for the way each piece fits their respective wall perfectly. “It was a challenge because obviously this wall is huge, and I needed a piece that could stand up to that,” Siefkin said. Smaller furnishings might seem more appropriate for a small space, but they would have chopped up the expanse and made the room feel more cluttered.

Experiment Siefkin likes to display groups of favorite objects that she can rearrange. “It’s trial and error,” she said of her approach. With the popularity of Instagram and the internet, “There’s just so much pressure to have a perfectly composed home, and I don’t feel that’s necessary.” And not every piece has to be too meaningful, either. Some finds just give off an irresistible charm that loosens up the overall scheme, like the large carved hands Siefkin bought off the back of a vendor’s truck in Kenton, and which sit on the floor in a place of pride. “I couldn’t resist them,” Siefkin said. “They’re just so weird and wonderful.” 36          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


“I brought only the things that made my heart beat fast. In a lot of ways that’s been a really good exercise for me, because I’m surrounded by the things that I absolutely adore.” — Kristen Siefkin, on decorating her new home

FROM LEFT With little built-in storage, Siefkin bought trunks and chests. Carved hands have a place of pride in Siefkin’s home.

Photos: Christopher Dibble

Make storage eye-catching The backbone of any design is excellent function, which Siefkin needed in the form of more storage, as hers was limited to the kitchen cupboards and a single closet in the bedroom. She got creative about containing the rest of her odds and ends by sprinkling antique Tansu chests in various spots. Tansus are traditional wood Japanese storage cabinets with exposed metal hardware and fun combinations of drawers and doors. She tucked low-lying cases under the window sills and stacked two atop one another by the entry, effectively screening the bed from the front door. The chests bring in a vintage patina that contrasts with the modern bones of the space and offer storage galore, holding everything from dog leashes to sunglasses to towels. “These are lifesavers for me,” Siefkin said. Siefkin has long wanted to live in the Pearl District and is enjoying everything about her latest reincarnation there. “I have a tendency to hibernate,” Siefkin said. “I knew that if I were in an area of town that forced me to get out and walk the dogs, and go grocery shopping, and do all of my essentials, then I would be forced to communicate with my neighbors and strangers.” An added bonus has been building relationships with nearby shopkeepers, to whom she waves on her daily sojourns through the neighborhood. Still, returning home to her condo remains a pleasure. “I didn’t expect to like small-space living as much as I do,” Siefkin said. “I don’t know that I would ever go back to a 2,800-square-foot home again.” JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      37

Christopher Dibble

home + design

Siefkin’s gallery wall is an eclectic mix of sizes, colors and even frames.

DIY: Hang a Gallery Wall KRISTEN SIEFKIN’S GALLERY WALL is the focal point of her petite home, and includes all different media, such as paintings, framed textiles and prints. Their subjects remain diverse as well, ranging from the abstract to a precisely rendered woodblock print. Chances are, you have a similar array at your disposal. The beauty of the gallery wall approach is that it needn’t be too “matchy-matchy.” Siefkin gave us her tips for displaying with panache. relatively consistent, depending on the size of the wall and the pieces involved. “I usually go 2 to 3 inches,” Siefkin said. “One inch can be a little snug, but it depends on your space.”


Siefkin’s only rule for purchasing art is to buy what you like. She doesn’t believe the different pieces have to have a similar theme, color, frame style or size to them in order to be hung together. “In my opinion, you can make anything work,” Siefkin said. 2 DO A TEST RUN

Having decided what to hang, trace each piece of art on to craft paper and cut out each shape. Affix the templates to the wall with painter’s tape, so as not to damage the surface finish when they’re removed. “Move them around until they feel right,” Siefkin said. MIND THE SPACING

The spacing between each element should remain 38          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE




Siefkin said she likes “the weight of either side to balance, whether that’s in the size of the art, or color. Even better if it’s both.” To achieve this equilibrium, draw an imaginary center line on the wall where the arrangement will be. Then position the artwork so that the frame sizes and colors are equally mixed on both sides. For instance, Siefkin didn’t want all of her pieces with orange tones to end up clustered together, as that would dominate the gaze. “I wanted your eye to travel over, almost in a rainbow movement,” Siefkin said.

home + design

Global Eclectic Get the look of Siefkin’s unique home at these Oregon-based marketplaces

Don’t have any international travel plans in the near future? Take a stroll through Cargo instead. With locations in Astoria, Portland, and online, Cargo offers handmade crafts, vintage treasures and décor items from a vast array of countries. We’re partial to the selection of textiles, including vibrant kantha quilts from India and ikat pillows from the Ivory Coast.

Mix in a few modern pieces with the vintage gems after perusing the wares at the Portland-based Good Mod, a Mid-century furniture warehouse that also sells its own custom designs and those of local makers. The hardwood and leather Sling Chair by Fernweh Woodworking is a sculptural addition to any living room. If inspired by Siefkin’s use of Tansu chests, plan a visit to Aurora to shop at Aurora Mills Architectural Salvage and seek out similar, unique storage items, such as a Mid-century basket locker or early-1900s oak printer’s cabinet. You never know what you might find.


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      39

mind + body

Yvonne Michaud Age: 26 Born: Denton, Texas Residence: Independence Career: A focus in natural resources— currently at the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife as a grants assistant

An Active Life Yvonne Michaud wants to have fun, not inspire

WORKOUT “Cycling, kayaking, Straddleboarding and Pilates are all things I love to do. My goal is to have too much fun to realize it’s exercise.”

written by Mackenzie Wilson Yvonne Michaud paddles on her straddleboard.

PEOPLE OFTEN TELL Yvonne Michaud she’s an inspiration. Well-meaning strangers stop the 26-year-old in the grocery store to congratulate her on shopping for eggs or whatever else happens to be in her cart. She knows they have the best intentions, but the Independence resident doesn’t need or want praise for living an independent life. In 2013, while Michaud was living in Texas, she was mountain biking on a familiar trail when an expert-level section proved to be too much. She hit a bump that flipped her back tire over the front, tossing her to the ground. “Immediately, I just felt loud static and tingling from my waist down,” Michaud said. Alone in the woods, she was able to pull her cell phone out of her Camelbak and call 911. When firefighters arrived, Michaud told them it felt like she was laying on a rock, but after they moved her to the ambulance, she realized there was no rock. Her adrenaline quickly wore off, and pain set in. Doctors told her she had broken her T11 vertebrae, paralyzing her from the waist down. At the hospital, Michaud was led through a variety of therapy, including recreational therapy. Staff suggested she try handcycling since she was an avid mountain biker. It didn’t go great. “I was like, this is bullshit, not for me,” Michaud remembered. She was fully committed to healing, not adapting, 40          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

and the handcycle wasn’t the same as getting back on her mountain bike. “At first, I thought my willpower could heal me. I thought, ‘If I work hard enough I can get there.’ But now I’ve realized I can pour all the work in and I should not expect that to heal me,’ she said. Michaud now puts her energy into living an active life, kayaking with her fiancé, practicing Pilates and going on bike rides with her dog. Last summer, she invested in a prototype Straddleboard— an inflatable standup paddleboard with a padded hump that runs down the center. Michaud can comfortably kneel on the board and challenge her balance. She said at first it felt like she was riding a mechanical bull. “I think part of the reason I enjoy it is because I didn’t paddleboard before my injury,” she said, “so I don’t have anything to compare it to.” Michaud is an avid supporter of medical research for spinal cord injuries, and as far as she’s concerned, those are the people who should be applauded as inspirational. “I’m forever grateful to those who donate time, money and energy to adaptive sports programs, medical research, and my own recovery efforts,” Michaud said. “Because of their investments I can always find inclusion in a world where I don’t easily fit in, and I have hope for a cure for spinal cord injuries.”


NUTRITION “Since my injury, I’ve learned my body much prefers warm, cooked food. With that in mind, I try to buy ingredients I can easily cook into meals during the week, and that make enough food to take leftovers for lunches. I mealprep breakfast because I love sleep way too much to wake up early. My go-tos are breakfast burritos and cranberry oatmeal muffins.”

INSPIRATION “I am forever grateful to those who donate time, money and energy to adaptive sports programs, medical research and my own recovery efforts. Because of their investments, I can always find inclusion in a world where I don’t easily fit in, and I have hope for a cure for spinal cord injuries.”

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Accessible Art

Frank Makes features fun woodworking creations written by Juliet Grable Frank Howarth works on a Christmas ornament in his Southwest Portland woodworking shop.

IN ONE OF Frank Makes’ most popular YouTube videos, a lawn chair seemingly assembles itself. Large slabs of Sequoia march across the lawn and file into the shop. A skill saw rips a board, sans operator. Wood chips pile up on the floor next to the drill press. Near the end, the pieces of the chair leap into position, and the wood clamps, having done their job, clamber down from the newly assembled chair and scamper across the floor. Both the film and the chair are the creations of Frank Howarth, a soft-spoken mad genius who lives in southwest Portland with his wife, Bonnie, and kids Claire and Calvin. His popular YouTube channel, Frank Makes, has nearly 500,000 subscribers. Howarth’s films document woodworking projects ranging from the practical to the whimsical. Some are items from the honey-do list—bookcases, kitchen drawer organizers— others, such as a turned bowl he made for a wedding gift, are works of art. Howarth often uses a lathe to shape blocks into rounded objects—spindles, bowls and Christmas ornaments, but also an eerily realistic eyeball and a model of the Death Star—two of many projects that fall into the category of Just Because. 42          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


Howarth’s films are as well-designed as the things he makes, and the combination of low-key narration and masterful editing sets Frank Makes apart from the dozens of other YouTube woodworking channels. And although Howarth often tells viewers what he’s doing while he’s doing it, his films are not “how-to” videos. “I want to make things that you couldn’t or wouldn’t make, but not present them in an arrogant way,” he said. He considers the videos stories, with the featured project a character. Howarth tries to post a new video every week or two. About half of his time goes to the creation of the object, the rest to the production of the videos. The lawn chair video, which runs just under ten minutes,

Come see the

Mammoths! CALLING the Mountain Meadows Community Home. The New Columbian Mammoths Life-size sculptures by Gary Staab Meet these ambassadors from the Ice Age past, and consider what they can teach us about our future.

NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME to make a move to Mountain Meadows 55+ Community—owned, operated and governed by the residents themselves.


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A 55 + Community

857 Mountain Meadows Dr. Ashland, Oregon 97520 (800) 337-1301


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artist in residence

FROM LEFT Howarth’s eyeball project. Lawn chairs made from Sequoia. BELOW A turned bowl Howarth made as a wedding gift.

has an almost breathtaking momentum, but the stop motion animation required pausing every few seconds to take a photo and move objects, plus hours of editing and stitching together thousands of images. (Fans interested in the filmmaking process can watch a very meta video on the making of the video of the making of the lawn chair.) Other than a graduate class in stop motion film, Howarth has no formal film training. He grew up in Honolulu in a scienceoriented family. “Going to design school was my way of rebelling,” he said. Howarth attended Cornell University and earned a master’s degree in architecture from Harvard University, but in 2012 he left commercial architecture to pursue his hobby full time. “A bunch of things came together around 2011 and 2012,” said Howarth, who recently turned 50. “I asked myself, ‘Why am I only doing this on Saturdays?’” Bonnie agreed, and became the family breadwinner. She also screens the videos and provides a layperson’s feedback. Most of his projects are one-offs, and Howarth’s YouTube income comes from ads placed in his videos. “I’ve built this marketing platform,” he said. “I just need to figure out what to market.” If Howarth’s projects are his characters, his shop is the stage. Howarth designed and built it on the site of an old swimming pool, taking advantage of the sunken grade to create high ceilings without compromising the views from the main house. It includes a shed roof and a row of clerestory windows—he thinks of the building as a toolbox with the lid slightly ajar. The video documenting the building of his shop has garnered more than 2 million views. Newcomers to Frank Makes won’t find a reverent monk paying homage to anachronistic woodworking techniques. The shop is populated with Powermatic machines acquired from auctions and Craigslist postings, but he also has a state-of44          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


the-art PRO4896 CNC machine, essentially a robot that uses computer software to direct the milling of precise shapes. “When I got the CNC machine, some people thought, ‘That’s it,’” Howarth said. “But we were just getting started.” He built a custom hinged table that allows him to push the capabilities of the machine and make unconventional cuts; for instance, drilling the hole out of the Death Star so it could receive its iconic laser-focusing disc. In a recent video, Howarth embarked on that most prosaic of woodworking projects, with a twist: a pizza cutting board that resembles an actual pizza. He used triangles of Yellowheart for the cheese, a ring of cherry for the crust, and coins of CNC-milled Padauk for the pepperoni. He also garnished the video with bits of humor, feeding the “pizza” into his planer with a long-handled pizza peel and shaving the wood with a cheese grater. Next up in the queue, and proof you don’t need to be a woodworking geek to be a fan of Frank Makes—Howarth will fabricate a pair of Bigfoot sandals so he can make oversized footprints on the beach with his kids. MORE ONLINE

To see Frank Makes projects in action, go to

HOW TO CATCH A SUN BREAK IN SEASIDE Pack lots of layers and a stack of good books. Cozy up near your beachfront hotel window and watch the storm. Pretty epic, huh? Now wait for it… Sun break! Peel off those layers, bookmark your page, and run outside!


EXECUTION: SEASIDE SUN BREAK 1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL FILE NAME: seaside_1859_8.25x5.06_sunbreak.indd PUB: 1859 FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25" wide x 5.06" tall





pg. 54 Soul River Inc. connects veterans and urban youth and helps them experience the wild.

Let ’s Rock

Let’s Play

Let ’s Eat

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startup Renters can get a camper van in Portland and Bend, as well as L.A., San Francisco and, in 2019, Boise.

Dream Deliverers GoCamp gets camper vans in on the sharing economy and delivers adventure written by Sheila G. Miller INSTAGRAM POSTS with the hashtag #vanlife have become all the rage in recent years. I can’t possibly be the only Oregonian who looks wistfully at the wild vistas and the perfectly kitted vans and thinks, “Why not me?” Here’s why not: a new or gently used camper van can set you back between $20,000 and $100,000 and aren’t necessarily realistic for daily driving. Most of us will never own one. But that doesn’t mean the dream is dead—that’s where GoCamp comes in. Deborah Kane started GoCamp partly out of a desire to get others out into the wilderness and partly to prevent her camper van from sitting in her driveway all the time. Kane, who rents out her basement apartment in Southeast Portland using Airbnb, had her a-ha moment in 2017. 48          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


“Through my experience, I learned that people love the Northwest and they’re coming here on vacation all the time,” she said. “I also learned that the sharing economy is alive and very real, and while I was welcoming guests into my Airbnb basement apartment, there was my camper van sitting there in my driveway. I couldn’t for the life of me understand why there wasn’t an Airbnb of camper vans.” So she started one. GoCamp has a limited number of vans and other vehicles, owned by people in Oregon and California. GoCamp users can reserve the vans for rates averaging about $150 a night—more for a new Mercedes Sprinter, less for a Honda Element topped with a vehicle tent, for example. Pick your dates, pay through the website, and voila—you’re on your way to your camping dream come true. Kane loves to camp, and launching the company allowed her to make camping her full-time focus after years in the agricultural and food industries. Now she helps people get outside and get off their mobile devices. “We have found in the last two seasons that a lot of customers are families, and I just love thinking about mom and dad actually getting to talk to their kids because they can’t play video games because they don’t have cell service.”


Right now, renters can grab a GoCamp vehicle in Bend, Portland, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Going into GoCamp’s third camping season, Kane plans to include Boise in her list of rental locations. Long term, the sky is the limit. “I expect that we’ll be in ten markets at the end of five years.” Kane takes a percentage of each rental for finding the customer and facilitating the business. The van owner gets the bulk of the money. Kane said peer-to-peer sharing sites have made her business more palatable to new users. “They’re normalizing the practice,” she said. Currently, GoCamp rents about thirty-five vans and other camping vehicles like SUVs equipped with Cascadia Vehicle Tents on top. Kane expects there will be at least fifty vehicles ready for the 2019 camping season. “In the RV world there are what’s called driveables versus towables, and the common denominator for us is we don’t do the towables,” Kane said. “By and large we’re also renting things you can park in a parking space. We’re not renting motorhomes.” There’s a real upside for van owners as well as those renting the vehicles. Kane said there are van owners on the site renting out their vans between May and September and making between $15,000 and $18,000 each summer. But GoCamp doesn’t let just anyone post their vehicle on the site. “You cannot be a van owner in Portland and at 2 a.m. decide to put it up on the website,” Kane said. “You have to go through me.” Kane has a personal conversation with owners interested in posting their vans to the site—why they want to share, what the standards are, that sort of thing. The company has a list of camping items and other products that must be in the van. It also has a raft of safety requirements. There’s an initial mechanical inspection and then each van must be re-inspected every ninety days. All the tools necessary to change a flat tire or to deal with small emergencies must be on hand. “It’s all those little things to make sure that, in the event something goes wrong, the renter has everything they need to make it right for themselves,” she said. “Then we also send them off with twentyfour-hour roadside assistance, as well as pretty comprehensive insurance that covers liability and comp and collision.” The goal is for all the vehicles to be what Kane calls “road trip ready”: sleeping bags, camp chairs, bug spray, headlamps, the kinds of things people who are flying in from out of town don’t want to drag along in a checked bag. All you need to do is throw in your bags and stop for groceries on your way out of town. Many van owners go above and beyond the requirements. Kane recently checked out a van and found a gift bag filled with Portland-made chocolates and Oregon wine. “Even I, as the owner of Go Camp, was really impressed,” she said. “The hosts really love sharing the dream. That’s what one of my van owners always says, ‘We’re dream deliverers.’”

AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Vans on the GoCamp site range in size. The vehicles come equipped with bedding and other necessities. Hit the road for about $150 a night.


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what’s going up?

Photos: Matt Swain

Great New Grub

New restaurants to start 2019 written by Sheila G. Miller

IF YOUR RESOLUTION for 2019 is to try new things, we’ve got a few restaurant options for you. Basil & Board opened its doors in late 2018 in downtown Salem. The pizza and wine joint is the brainchild of Bo & Vine partner Brian Kaufman and two other local restaurateurs. Grab a slice of brick oven pizza, some bruschetta and a glass of red and watch from the rooftop seating as Salem continues to improve its culinary offerings. If it’s healthy, convenient eating you seek, head to Life & Time

FROM TOP The new Basil & Board is part of downtown Salem’s revitalization. The restaurant offers a variety of bruschetta options.



Free Range Fast Food on Bend’s westside. This new spot has a drive-thru and uses organic and quality ingredients in its fromscratch meals. Perhaps you want to travel more in 2019? Din Tai Fung, a fanfavorite dumpling and noodles restaurant, will give you the flavors of Taiwan without the long flight. Opened in Tigard’s Washington Square Mall in late 2018, this is the first Oregon location. There will be long lines, but the soup dumplings are worth the wait.

what i’m working on

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Richard Little raises mason bees in his backyard. Little is a retired entomologist who collects and studies insects. The bees are raised in tubes.

Busy Bees

Richard Little aims to help Oregon’s pollinators interview and photography by Vanessa Salvia

AS A COLLEGE STUDENT, Richard Little kept changing his major and changing schools before he figured out that he liked bugs and building things. Now, the retired deputy agriculture commissioner with an entomology degree lives in Sweet Home and supports the Oregon State University Extension program by building homes for mason bees, teaching classes about these littleknown pollinators, and contributing to the Oregon Bee Atlas, which aims to document Oregon’s native pollinators. Last year, Little raised 15,000 mason bees in 1,800 tubes in his yard. What is different about mason bees? Mason bees are solitary and nest in places such as beetle holes, woodpecker holes, and hollow plant stems. They survive in cocoons that are sealed with mud from fall into early spring. They are the first bees to emerge and start foraging for food to feed the next generation. Only females have a stinger and they won’t sting unless they’re trapped. They fly only very short distances, so their nests need to be within 300 feet of their food supply. If there is no food or nesting sites, they will leave the area. Are mason bees better pollinators than honey bees? Mason bees make honeybees look like couch potatoes. About 700 mason bees can pollinate 1 acre of almonds, as opposed to 7,000 honeybees that would be required. If you want enough honeybees to perform the pollinating for most

plants that one mason bee does, you need 100 of them. How can Oregon gardeners help mason bees? Gardeners can introduce mason bees to their yards by purchasing cocoons containing adult bees, then putting the cocoons into the homemade or purchased nesting houses. Situate the houses under an eave where they get morning sun but would be shielded from hot afternoon sun. You can hang up empty homes and hope for the bees to find them and lay their eggs, but this does not happen very often. Mason bees are much easier to care for than honeybees, but mites are a problem for them, too. The Linn County Master Gardeners can teach you how to reduce that problem. How does your work with bees help the OSU Extension? Everybody has a plant sale, so we decided to specialize in native bees.

Linn County Master Gardeners has become the go-to resource in mason bee health and we have hundreds of people who take our classes and buy the special bee homes that we make and sell. In fall when we harvest our bees we offer classes so people learn what they need to do. What’s going on with the Oregon Bee Atlas? Volunteers throughout Oregon who are part of the Oregon Bee Project are working with the Oregon Department of Agriculture, Oregon State University, and other state agencies to bring our bee knowledge up to date. Most of our knowledge of native bees is from the 1800s and into the 1960s. Our knowledge of Oregon’s native pollinators today is very limited. We’re creating regional teams of citizen scientists and training them on aspects of catching, collecting and identifying pollinators, so we know how they’re doing.


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My Workspace

Rhonda and Jim Urquhart had no idea what they were getting into when they decided to uproot from their arid Arizona homes and “move to green” after visiting an Oregon farm with its caving red barn. “I think we’re home!” exclaimed Rhonda during their first viewing, while driving past the front gate. They returned to Arizona and rounded up their dogs, loaded up a van and followed a leap of faith into lush Oregon territory.

Invisible Equines Rhonda and Jim Urquhart’s devotion to donkeys written and photographed by Joni Kabana

Fast forward more than a decade to present day— it is apparent they found their calling: fostering neglected and misunderstood donkeys via the Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue organization and working with the Wild Burro Project. After adopting their first two donkeys soon after moving to the 40-acre Oregon City farm, they immediately “fell in love with this invisible equine.”

“They aren’t stupid or stubborn animals,” Jim Urquhart said. “They meet a human’s energy. They aren’t fast like a horse, so they must take time to assess each situation. They are deliberate in their approach to things.”



my workspace

The Urquharts welcome guests to visit and spend time with the donkeys. Recently, one of their donkeys had a positive effect on a child diagnosed with autism and another donkey expressed noticeable affection for a woman who was dying and whose last wish was to spend time around donkeys. “They know,” Rhonda Urquhart said, tears brimming in her eyes.

The Urquharts believe they have learned a great deal about forgiveness and trust from fostering numerous donkeys over the years. And in turn, their own devotion grows.


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game changer

River of Hope

Soul River Inc. connects vets, teens and the wild—to great results written by Gina Williams

IN THE RIVER STORY that runs through Chad Brown’s life, there’s a healing quality so powerful that the waters literally carried him away from suicide and into a hopeful future. Now the decorated Navy veteran, artist, businessman and youth leader, who suffers from post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) after two Gulf War deployments, is sharing that experience of hope and resilience to young people and veterans like himself.

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game changer

Brown returned from war in 1994 and immediately returned to school to earn an undergraduate degree, then went on to complete a master’s degree in communication design and photography from New York’s Pratt University. He landed top design and branding work in New York City, but by 2007 realized the fast pace was burning him out, and he’d begun experiencing signs of PTSD. In 2008, he took a contract job in Portland. Still, the PTSD had a grip he couldn’t shake. He lost his job and went through a period of homelessness and attempted suicide. At rock bottom, he was giving blood for gas money. In 2009, the illness again nearly drove him to suicide. Then, a friend introduced him to flyfishing. The river soothed him. Nature became his medicine. By 2012, he’d conceived of Soul River Inc., a Portland-based nonprofit that organizes multiple “deployments” each year that connect veterans as leaders with urban youth who might not otherwise have the opportunity or means to experience wild and threatened natural places—and learn how to protect them. Some deployments are brief Oregon-based outings that serve as training for larger expeditions, such as Soul River Inc.’s annual deployment to the Arctic. In all deployments, youth learn about the environment, fly-fishing, outdoor survival skills, conservation and leadership. They are also encouraged to form their own opinions and share knowledge by creating curriculum around an area of interest. Now, through the organization’s “Mission Forward” program attached to deployments, youth and veterans also have the opportunity for cross-cultural awareness experiences as well as humanitarian projects. During the July 2018 Arctic deployment, for example, Soul River Inc. implemented an interactive, non-traditional classroom in the Gwich’in native village where the group stayed. It also helped build a community garden that had not been tended since the 1950s. “The whole purpose, especially with youth and disconnected communities, is to focus on the basics and ethics of work,” Brown said. “When you bring these young people into a threatened wild space, we’re putting our hands in the dirt together. We’re working together.” The experience, he said, helps create strong future conservation advocates and offers a deeper lens of understanding for everyone involved. When youth leaders return from a deployment, they have additional opportunities to connect with Soul River Inc.’s conservation group partners,

such as Oregon Natural Desert Association, The Wilderness Society and Oregon Wild. Brown said conservation partners step in and teach Advocacy 101, which also opens doors for youth and the Soul River Inc. organization for additional opportunities, such as advocating before Congress. In June 2018, Soul River Inc. deployed to Bears Ears National Monument in southeastern Utah, which President Trump shrunk by 85 percent in 2017. The group also went to nearby Monument Valley, where they spent time with members of the Navajo tribe through a cultural exchange partnership. “With our Mission Forward projects, we balance textbook conservation with cultural awareness through a nontraditional and hands-on educational experience.” Brown said. Riley Brookes, a youth leader who participated in the Bears Ears deployment, described the value of cultural education for conservation efforts in a Soul River Inc. video highlighting the project. “We’re here trying to heal this place that’s at risk,” she said. “But we have to heal our knowledge of it first.” In 2019, Soul River Inc. will return to the Arctic to continue building on cultural awareness and humanitarian projects in the Gwich’in community. They’ll also travel to Katkvik, Alaska to study endangered polar bears and the impacts of climate change. “Our youth leaders are learning how to use this platform, how to navigate advocacy and how to use their voice for environmental and humanitarian concerns,” Brown said. “By stepping up as leaders, they are becoming conservation warriors.”

“When you bring these young people into a threatened wild space, we’re putting our hands in the dirt together. We’re working together.” — Chad Brown, Soul River Inc. founder JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

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Oregon’s resort properties grow and change, to our benefit written by Sheila G. Miller

Tu Tu’ Tun sits on the Rogue River away from the world.




Old Favorites


Black Butte Ranch is a Central Oregon paradise.

n the beginning, there was Sunriver. And it was good. It was very good.

Sunriver Resort, which was built as a World War II training post called Camp Abbot, became Oregon’s first big resort back in the 1960s. It wasn’t alone, though it was certainly the best known of the group. Early resorts in Oregon include Black Butte Ranch outside Sisters, Salishan Resort on the Oregon Coast, Tu Tu’ Tun tucked away on the Rogue River in Southern Oregon, and Resort at the Mountain in Welches (now known as Mt. Hood Oregon Resort).

These resorts were so good and so successful, in fact, that they have paved the way over the years for dozens more destination resorts to crop up around the state. They’re everywhere—stretched along swathes of high desert, wedged in among sand dunes, surrounded by golf courses

and tucked against mountains. They offer all kinds of amenities, and they keep changing. It’s hard to identify the best— that’s like asking which of your children is your favorite. So we didn’t try. Instead, we’re sharing with you some old favorites, some newbies and some unexpected amenities you’ll find around the state.

Sometimes glory fades. Sometimes it’s reborn again and again. At Salishan, one of Oregon’s first and most reliable resorts, that rebirth is taking place as we speak. It’s hard work keeping a coastal resort looking good—the wind and the rain of the Oregon Coast can weather even the newest buildings. Salishan went into bankruptcy and receivership in 2015 and was bought by a Quick Hit group that has invested millions of dollars Salishan into a renovation and Gleneden Beach reimagination of the $159+ resort. It still has the Tu Tu’ Tun tennis courts and the Gold Beach $165+ Peter Jacobson-designed Black Butte golf course, but today Ranch Salishan is encouraging Sisters $350+ for eco-tourism such as condo kayaking and stand-up Chateau at paddleboarding. The the Oregon resort is also focusing Caves Cave Junction on wellness, with yoga Temporarily and a full-service spa. closed Tu Tu’ Tun is one of those low-slung, glorious spots that doesn’t interfere with the beauty of its site. The lodge on the Rogue River near Gold Beach opened in 1970, and it’s been quietly delighting visitors ever since with its off-the-grid, getback-to-nature vibe. There are spa services, of course, but there are also opportunities to ride jet boats, go fly fishing or rent sea kayaks. Better yet, the resort has a link on its website under activities that suggests you “do nothing,” then provides a pile of photos of people sitting on the property sipping wine and looking at the views. Either way, this is the kind of place that will call you back, again and again.


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Sometimes glory fades. Sometimes it’s reborn again and again. At Salishan, one of Oregon’s first and most reliable resorts, that rebirth is taking place as we speak.

TOP Salishan is undergoing a rebirth at the coast. BOTTOM, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa’s rooms all have ocean views. Meridian is Headlands’ on-site restaurant. Black Butte has views for all seasons. At Silvies Valley Ranch, you can hire a goat caddie.

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Silvies Valley Ranch

Black Butte Ranch is a timeless location perfect at any time of year. If you need a winter pick-me-up, Black Butte will probably have snow. If you need some sunshine, it’s likely to deliver year round. It’s traditional— two golf courses, tons of lodging options, a spa and good dining—but there is always a place in our hearts for a resort where, in the span of several days, you can go skiing, ride bikes, ride horses, sit in a hot tub and go hiking. Finally, a quick mention about The Chateau at the Oregon Caves— this longtime favorite closed in October 2018 for renovations and is scheduled to stay that way for up to two years. But when it reopens, you should put it on your list. The chateau was built in 1934 as the rustic hotel next to the Oregon Caves National Monument, and its lobby has a double fireplace and gigantic exposed wood beams. It’s truly extraordinary, and even with a facelift there’s no doubt it will continue to exude that Southern Oregon rustic charm.


The Allison Inn & Spa has on-site gardens.

The Allison Inn & Spa

Salishan Resort

I Do (Love This Venue)


The Newbies

Opened in mid-2018, Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa in Pacific City is about as good as it gets. Every room has an ocean Quick Hit view, and that includes a view of Haystack Headlands Rock (not THAT one, Coastal Lodge & Spa guys—there are actually Pacific City six Haystack Rocks in $310+ Silvies Valley Oregon and three on Ranch the coast, and the one Seneca we’re talking about here $350 is less famous for The Goonies and more famous for being impossible to see when there’s fog, which is often). The lodge is steps from Pelican Brewing’s brewpub, but Headlands

has enough amenities that you may never even make it out the door. The spa offers all the usual treatments, and Meridian’s menu is filled with fine dining dishes and great wine and cocktails. Many of the rooms have deep, clawfoot bathtubs, and all have cozy Pendleton blankets and gas fireplaces. Swing by the honorsystem pantry and pick up Oregonmade snacks, then curl up and watch the waves. Silvies Valley Ranch has been operating as a cattle ranch (and a bunch of other weird schemes over the years) since the 1880s. But last year, the ranch added a thirty-four room eco-resort called The Retreat, Links & Spa at Silvies Valley Ranch. King beds, private log cabins, and a recently added full-service spa all combine to make this spot luxury with a Western twist. You can hit the golf course, go on an authentic cattle drive, try your hand at the shooting range, or get out and explore the thousands of acres around you. If you go golfing, please indulge in one of the resort’s goat caddies, which are exactly what they sound like.

Oregon’s resorts can be great for a getaway, and many are also perfect for your big event, weddings included. We came up with a list of resorts that will wow you with event options.

The Oregon Garden Resort | Silverton There are 80 acres and twenty specialty gardens on this site, which means if you can dream it, the resort can likely achieve it. This spot also specializes in indoor winter weddings.

The Allison Inn & Spa | Newberg You’ve got 35 acres of hillside smack dab in the middle of Oregon’s wine country to work with—and the resort also features on-site gardens, local wines and incredible food.

Pronghorn Resort | Bend Out in the high desert, you can get married on an island that seats up to 300 guests. That’s just the start of the options for events at this full-service resort.

Brasada Ranch | Bend This one nabs the “best wedding venue in Oregon” accolades all the time, and for good reason—there are five venues available for a big day. If you seek the perfect Instagram-worthy barn as a backdrop, you’re going to want to check out Brasada.

Casino(s) Royale

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Minam River Lodge is deep in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Tetherow’s golf course can be traversed by GolfBoard. WildSpring Guest Habitat has a seven-circuit labyrinth.

The state of Oregon has nine casinos, all of them tribal-owned and operated. After federal law changed in 1988 to allow gaming on tribal lands, the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Indians were the first to test the industry. What started as the Cow Creek Bingo Hall in 1992 morphed into Seven Feathers Casino Resort— and paved the way for the casinos that now dot the state. Each does something well. Herewith, a rundown of what to try at each of Oregon’s tribal casinos.

The Mill Casino North Bend

Kla-Mo-Ya Casino Chiloquin

This place, operated by the Coquille Indian Tribe, is a hotspot for the southern coast. The newest addition to the facility is Warehouse 101, a big sports bar with lots of large TVs and plenty of craft beer.

This is the littlest casino of the bunch, and it opened in 1997. It’s a welcome respite from the long drive up or down Highway 97, because it just added a travel center and a Sleep Inn hotel.

Three Rivers Casino Resort Florence & Coos Bay This casino has two locations, one that is primarily a casino and the other, in Florence, with a golf course and a hotel. That means double the chances to win.

Seven Feathers Resort Casino Canyonville The grand dame of the Oregon tribal casinos has something others can’t boast—River Rock Spa, a full-service salon and spa offering massages, facials and a variety of other services as well as packages.

Indian Head Casino Warm Springs With the recent closure of Kah-Nee-Ta, the Warm Springs Indian Reservation’s longtime resort, Indian Head is now the reservation’s main draw. The benefit of Indian Head is that it’s right on U.S. Highway 26, while KahNee-Ta was 14 miles from the highway along winding roads. It has lots of gaming and opened in 2012, so it still feels new. It also just opened a travel center.

Chinook Winds Casino Resort Lincoln City This is the most kid-friendly of the tribal casinos, with a Play Palace and a huge arcade. It also offers the most non-gaming options, with a golf course just steps from the casino and a fitness center.

Spirit Mountain Casino Grand Ronde Spirit Mountain has made a name for itself by bringing the best entertainment acts of any of the casinos. You’ll find well-known musicians, comedians and other entertainers all the time at this casino.

Wildhorse Resort & Casino Pendleton The ten-story Tower Hotel has spacious, fancy-feeling rooms and great views. There is a very good golf course with reasonable greens fees on the campus, with a new clubhouse coming in 2019. Bonus—Wildhorse rounds it out with a five-screen cineplex.

Evan Schneider


Jonathan Kingston

Unexpected Amenities

WildSpring Guest Habitat in Port Orford is an eco-friendly retreat that just about oozes romantic getaway charm. The Southern Oregon Coast serves as a backdrop to an outdoor hot tub under the stars, and all the peace that comes from a spot with no cell service.

Oregon is full of surprises. By extension, Oregon’s resorts are full of surprises, like the goat caddies already mentioned. Here are a few of our favorites. By now, you’ve heard of Minam River Lodge in the Eagle Cap Wilderness. This secluded spot in Eastern Oregon isn’t easy to access, but that’s the point. Once you get here, by air, foot or horseback, Quick Hit you will have the types of options that make sense in Minam River a spot so far off the grid— Lodge Eagle Cap horseback rides, endless Wilderness hikes and whitewater $208+ rafting. But one of the Tetherow Resort most unexpected parts Bend of this spot is its meals, $169+ intimate, family-style WildSpring Guest and filled with fresh, Habitat local ingredients. The Port Orford meals foster a sense of $218+ community even when you’re far from paved roads, and that alone is worth the trip. At Tetherow Resort in Bend, you can combine golfing and surfing. For an extra $20, you hit the links with a GolfBoard. Stand upright on the board, strap your golf bag on and choose from two speeds to zoom around the course. It’s a great way to speed up play and it cuts down on damage to the grass. Bonus—it’s just a lot of fun. WildSpring Guest Habitat in Port Orford is an eco-friendly retreat that just about oozes romantic getaway charm. The Southern Oregon Coast serves as a backdrop to an outdoor hot tub under the stars, and all the peace that comes from a spot with no cell service. One way you’ll want to center yourself here is in the seven-circuit labyrinth tucked away in the woods.


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on the campus of Oregon State University and composed an email. He sent his research paper—World Scientists’ Warning to Humanity: A Second Notice—to forty colleagues. “Humanity is now being given a second notice, as illustrated by these alarming trends,” Ripple and colleagues said in the article. “We are jeopardizing our future by not reining in our intense but geographically and demographically uneven material consumption and by not perceiving continued rapid population growth as a primary driver behind many ecological and even societal threats. By failing to adequately limit population growth, reassess the role of an economy rooted in growth, reduce greenhouse gases, incentivize renewable energy, protect habitat, restore ecosystems, curb pollution, halt defaunation, and constrain invasive alien species, humanity is not taking the urgent steps needed to safeguard our imperilled biosphere.” Within forty-eight hours, Ripple had 1,200 signatories. By the time the paper was published in the journal BioScience that fall, it had 15,364 signatures from scientists in 184 countries. “On that day, my life changed,” Ripple said. Since then, A Second Notice has reportedly prompted speeches in Israel’s Knesset and Canada’s BC legislature and made the pages of France’s Le Monde. Back at home, OSU’s Faculty Senate and Associated Students of Oregon State University passed a joint resolution endorsing the research. The Second Notice comes twentyfive years after 1,700 scientists, many of them Nobel laureates in science, came together to warn governments and the general public of the evidence of an encroaching environmental disaster. Their statement in 1992 landed with the

impact of a snowflake on a remote mountaintop. Has the world finally awoken to its existential crisis? If so, Dr. Bill Ripple had a voice in it.

THE MAN BEHIND THE NOTICE Ripple was born in a rural community in Lesterville, South Dakota, about 80 miles southwest of Sioux Falls, where his greatgrandfather homesteaded. The population was 200 during his childhood in the 1950s. His father farmed and worked as the postmaster. His mother cut hair in

the salon and young Ripple grew up outdoors, riding his bicycle and hiking and teaching himself photography. In college, he scored a job working in South Dakota’s Custer State Park, set into the Black Hills National Forest. At the pastoral park, bison roam and classic American westerns such as How the West was Won and A Man Called Horse were shot here. Ripple’s life began to take on purpose. “One job I had was to take photographs of nature,” Ripple recalled. “I realized how inspired I am by nature and how great it

Robin Comforto

Bill Ripple is at the forefront of the fight over climate change.

FOUR REASONS TO WAKE UP The following graphs show trends for environmental issues identified in the 1992 World Scientists’ Warning to Humanity: A Second Notice. POPULATION IS SOARING

Population (billion individuals)

7 6 5


4 3

Ruminant Livestock





1.00 0.75 0.50 0.25 0.00 1960



Total Forest (billion hectares)




4.00 1960



Freshwater Resources Per Capita (1,000 m3)



(Source: World Scientists’ Warning to Humanity: A Second Notice)


would be to do a job for a living outdoors.” In 1974, while still in college, Ripple joined Cameron Ferweda from the U.S. Forest Service on a historic photographic expedition. Ripple helped Ferweda find and photograph the landmarks that British photographer William H. Illingworth had shot 100 years prior as part of the 1874 Custer Black Hills Expedition. The Custerled foray was commissioned by President Ulysses S. Grant with the purpose of determining if the area was hospitable for a military fort. Then gold was found in the Black Hills and, soon, prospectors with pans swarmed the area. Ripple and Ferweda researched, compared, plotted, explored and sought the same rocks, trees, grasslands and mountain profiles that Illingworth had documented a century before. This work and that of others culminated in a photographic before-and-after book—Yellow Ore, Yellow Hair, Yellow Pine—which documented human impact on the Black Hills over a century. “What I really like is the historical ecology aspect to put things in perspective,” Ripple said. “This is really important to me, and I think it’s important to science.” Ripple went on to earn a bachelor’s degree in geography from South Dakota State University and a doctorate from Oregon State University, where he is a distinguished professor of ecology. His work in the field and through his published works were unwitting conduits leading to A Second Notice. He worked on a northern spotted owl project before commencing his groundbreaking research on wolves in Yellowstone National Park. None of it came without controversy.

In June 1990, following the federal decree that the northern spotted owl and habitat should be protected, thus curtailing logging in federal forests, loggers caravanned in 434 logging rigs, honking their way through Roseburg in a long, loud protest, according to The New York Times. Earlier that year, 7,000 loggers and millworkers crammed into downtown Portland to protest the reduction of logging in federal forests. “We aren’t going to stand for a bunch of Volkswagendriving environmentalists coming here and driving us to the poor house,” Mike Draper, executive director of the Western Council of Industrial Workers, one of the two largest millworkers unions in America, reportedly told the UPI news agency. In 1996, Ripple went to a presentation on how aspen trees were declining in Yellowstone. “There was controversy and a mystery behind this,” Ripple said. He took on Erik Larsen, a doctoral student at Oregon State, to work together to solve this riddle. The two spent weeks drilling into aspens in Yellowstone and extracting samples in 1998. They found something odd—that aspen trees stopped regenerating in the early twentieth century. There were big old aspens but few small, young aspen trees. The pair researched events that could have led to this change and found wolves were being killed off in the late 1920s. Indeed, a federal predator control program was the leading cause of grey wolf extirpation. “This was our a-ha moment,” Ripple said. “We put forth a hypothesis in 2000 that the killing of the wolves may have expanded the elk population to the point where they would eat

the aspen sprouts and, as a result, they would not grow into tall trees.” Ripple had divined a, well, ripple effect. In natural sciences, the ripple effect takes the moniker “trophic cascade,” or a succession of consequences along a food chain when one species or predator is eliminated. The research paper on this topic, published in Biological Conservation, was an early professional coup for Ripple, whose wolf research brought him to the fore of the scientific community.

A DEAF EAR HEARS A PING Since the ’80s, the number of voices on climate change has steadily grown but most of their words have fallen silently, like an unobserved tree in the woods. Perhaps because people are busy these days and focused on near-term survival, slow-motion catastrophes are not compelling or concerning to the general public. Maybe people and governments believe climate change is a problem too far gone to engage. Maybe our culture increasingly rings itself with social media, where science has neither the reach nor power of celebrity. Perhaps air, water quality and mortality have less political voice than corporations in the aftermath of Citizens United, a 2010 Supreme Court decision that effectively swapped government by the people for one paid for by unregulated big corporate donations. No matter the case, objective data behind A Second Notice show we continue to put human and aquatic existence in jeopardy. “You can think of ocean acidification as injecting CO2 into the water like a Soda Stream,” said Kerry Nickols, an assistant professor of biology at California

State University, where she studies the efficacy of sea kelp in reducing ocean acidification. Since 1992, the amount of harmful CO2 from burning fossil fuels in the atmosphere has jumped more than 62 percent. When the CO2 goes into the water, it lowers the pH and increases water’s acidity. Higher acidity has an impact on aquatic life and is, perhaps, most profound in shellfish such as oysters, clams, mussels, lobster and crab—industries that employ millions of people around the world and whose value easily climbs into the billions of dollars. The increased CO2 emissions also trap heat in the Earth’s atmosphere, warming ambient air and water temperatures. “Just by warming the water, we’re increasing sea level because warm water takes up more volume,” Nickols said. Further, as the Antarctic ice caps melt, sea levels are rising at increasing rates. “A lot of New Orleans will be gone,” Nickols said. In 2007, the State of Oregon even got on board and formed the Oregon Global Warming Commission, a body that submits biennial climate change reports to the Oregon Legislature. In 2017, the commission pushed up its reporting date to the Legislature so it would land months before the legislative session, to allow for full consideration and legislative action. The report warned of disturbing trends in greenhouse gas emissions and increasing temperatures and highlighted political interference. “The political pendulum in the federal government has swung 180 degrees, from an Administration that committed to an historic 2016 global Paris Agreement and was actively driving down power plant and vehicle emissions, to one that has characterized climate

CAPITALISM + THE ENVIRONMENT Two American economists at the forefront of work on climate change and the role of governments in boosting growth have been jointly awarded the prestigious Nobel Memorial Prize for economics. The Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences said William Nordhaus and Paul Romer were honored for their research into two of the most “basic and pressing” economic issues of the age. Nordhaus made his name by warning policymakers during the first stirrings of concern about climate change in the 1970s that their economic models were not properly taking account of the impact of global warming, and he is seen as one of the pioneers of environmental economics. Romer is seen as the prime mover behind the endogenous growth theory, the notion that countries can improve their underlying performance if they concentrate on supply-side measures such as research and development, innovation and skills. MORE ONLINE Read a brief introduction to the work of William Nordhaus and Paul Romer at (Source:

WHO HAS YOUR BACK IN D.C.? Oregon’s elected officials’ national environmental scorecard: SENATORS Jeff Merkley (D) 99% Ron Wyden (D) 90% U.S. REPRESENTATIVES Suzanne Bonamici (D) 98% Earl Blumenauer (D) 96% Peter DeFazio (D) 91% Kurt Schrader (D) 71% Greg Walden (R) 9% (Source: Oregon League of Conservation Voters)

THE EVERYMAN’S GUIDE TO SAVING HUMANITY As most political leaders respond to pressure, scientists, media influencers and all people must insist their governments take immediate action as a moral imperative to current and future generations of human and other life. INDIVIDUAL RESPONSIBILITY • Re-examine our own reproduction (ideally to replacement level at most). • Drastically diminish our per-capita consumption of fossil fuels, meat and other resources. GOVERNMENTS, MUNICIPALITIES + SCHOOLS • Prioritize the enactment of connected, well-funded and well-managed reserves for a significant proportion of the world’s terrestrial, marine, freshwater and aerial habitats. • Maintain nature’s ecosystem services by halting the conversion of forests, grasslands and other native habitats. • Restore native plant communities at large scales, particularly forest landscapes. • Rewild regions with native species, especially apex predators, to restore ecological processes and dynamics. • Develop and adopt adequate policy instruments to remedy defaunation, the poaching crisis, and the exploitation and trade of threatened species. • Reduce food waste through education and better infrastructure. • Promote dietary shifts toward mostly plant-based foods. • Further reduce fertility rates by ensuring women and men have access to education and voluntary familyplanning services, especially where such resources are still lacking. • Increase outdoor nature education for children, as well as the overall engagement of society in the appreciation of nature. • Divest monetary investments and purchases to encourage positive environmental change. • Devise and promote new green technologies and massively adopt renewable energy sources while phasing out subsidies to energy production through fossil fuels. • Revise our economy to reduce wealth inequality and ensure prices, taxation and incentive systems take into account the real costs that consumption patterns impose on our environment. • Estimate a scientifically defensible, sustainable human population size for the long term while rallying nations and leaders to support that vital goal. (Source: World Scientists’ Warning to Humanity: A Second Notice)

“I KEEP TELLING AMERICANS THAT IT’S UN-AMERICAN TO SAY WE CAN’T FIGHT CLIMATE CHANGE. THAT’S NOT THE AMERICA I KNEW.” — DR. DAVID SUZUKI change as a Chinese hoax. While this shift was largely unrelated to climate policy, it casts a dark cloud over prospects for progress at the federal level.” If Ripple and his colleagues’ warning wasn’t enough, in October 2018 the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) kicked the dog. The IPCC, an international body of scientists from dozens of member countries, published its special report on the impacts of global warming. Global warming will likely increase average temperatures by 2.7 degrees Fahrenheit within as few as eleven years if we don’t lower our carbon dioxide emissions, the report noted. On the heels of the IPCC report, yet another bombshell report dropped. “The Fourth National Climate Assessment” landed on Black Friday in 2018, while many Americans were rushing to and fro to take advantage of holiday sales. This report warned of catastrophic damage to the United States from the effects of climate change. It

concluded that “while Americans are responding in ways that can bolster resilience and improve livelihoods, neither global efforts to mitigate the causes of climate change nor regional efforts to adapt to the impacts currently approach the scales needed to avoid substantial damages to the U.S. economy, environment, and human health and well-being over the coming decades.” Of the 1,600-page report that was the work of thirteen federal agencies and 300 scientists, President Donald Trump told reporters, “I don’t believe it,” before hopping aboard Marine One en route to a political rally. Current politics aside, the solution to climate change is still not beyond our grasp, according to leading scientists. David Suzuki, who has a Ph.D. in genetics from the University of Chicago and who is a household name in Canada for being the longtime host of longrunning science show The Nature of Things, has seen this all before. In his senior year at Amherst

College in 1957, he watched the first successful space shot as the Soviet Union’s Sputnik launched into orbit around Earth. Instead of conceding defeat in the nascent Cold War, America dove right into the imposing task of sending three men to the moon in a metal rocket. “The American response was quite remarkable,” Suzuki recalled. “No American said, ‘We can’t catch up to the Soviets.’ We came together as a country and started pouring money into science. In 1961, President Kennedy said, ‘We’re getting astronauts to the moon and back within a decade’ and did. … I keep telling Americans that it’s un-American to say we can’t fight climate change. That’s not the America I knew.” Ripple said he is cautiously optimistic of society’s challenges regarding climate change. “I have hope that the right steps will be taken,” he said. “Deep down, however, there needs to be more education about what’s happening on planet Earth.”

SEE MORE: Help support The Second Warning, an upcoming documentary chronicling Bill Ripple’s work, at

Opened in 1936, the Conde McCullough Memorial Bridge over Coos Bay is 5,305 feet long and 279 feet tall.

CO N N ECTING T H E C OA S T photography by Patrick Prothe OREGON IS A place of water—oceans and rivers and everything in between. The result? Many bridges. Along Highway 101 on the Oregon Coast, the bridges were primarily built in the 1920s and 1930s and most were designed by Conde McCullough, who favored Romanesque arches, gothic spires and Art Deco detailing. Today, they stand as a testament—taming our state’s most wild sections so we can access by vehicle the coast’s many gifts.

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FROM LEFT Spanning the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington, the Astoria-Megler Bridge is just over 4 miles long and opened in 1966. It is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. Once a year, pedestrians have the opportunity to cross it during the Great Columbia Crossing race in October. The Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport was designed by renowned Oregon bridge designer Conde McCullough. It opened in 1936.


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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Umpqua River Bridge in Reedsport is the only swing-span bridge remaining in Oregon. Opened in 1936, it features the signature Art Deco motif of the era. Built in 1927, the Ben Jones Bridge south of Depoe Bay is no longer part of Highway 101 and as a result can be easy to miss. Nestled in a small cove, the bridge is worth the short detour, however, and visitors can enjoy solitude among the crashing waves. The 1931 Big Creek Bridge is one of eleven coastal bridges designed by Conde McCullough. Big Creek mirrors the design of the Wilson River Bridge in Tillamook and Ten Mile Creek Bridge. A tied-arch design, which uses the road deck for support, was chosen because the unstable sandy base could not support the piers used in traditional arch bridges.

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The graceful arches of the Isaac Lee Patterson Bridge seem to tiptoe over the Rogue River at Gold Beach. The bridge opened in 1931.

Art Deco detailing marks the Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport.

Visitors to the Old Town shopping district in Florence can see the Siuslaw River Bridge, a drawbridge opened in 1936. JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

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pg. 92 Bozeman, Montana, is a place framed by mountains.

Bozeman Convention and Visitors Bureau


Every Moment Covered

Full Spectrum News | 1859_slogans-image2018_FINALS.indd 3

8/2/18 8:48 AM

travel spotlight

Travel Spotlight

Blast From the Past Tillamook Air Museum shows off jets in a World War II hangar written by James Sinks IN WORLD WAR II, to help safeguard military and cargo flotillas, the U.S. Navy launched blimps that could spot enemy submarines from above. The airships were housed in garages in strategic spots on both coasts. The northernmost in the West was in Tillamook. Today, you can still stand in the belly of one of the mammoth hangars, known as Hangar B. Its twin, Hangar A, burned to the ground in 1992. Calling the place big is an understatement—visible for miles, it is among the largest free-standing, clear-span wooden structures on the planet. During the war, with steel in high demand, the Navy looked to the forests of the Northwest to frame the architectural marvel, where a latticework of old-growth beams soar 192 feet overhead. Now home to the Tillamook Air Museum, Hangar B shelters fighter jets, including an F-14 Tomcat; a locomotive; a piece of the Hindenburg; interactive exhibits; a gift shop; and a café. And at almost a quarter-mile long with 7 acres of indoor space, you’ll also find plenty of elbow room.

Hangar B, seen here during World War II.

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Find your favorite winter getaway in Hood River! Just an hour’s drive east of Portland, Hood River offers a wonderful variety of restaurants with local flavors, shops with unique top-quality goods, curated wines/beers/spirits, and experiences not found elsewhere. Bring everyone together to create the timeless shared memories carried with friends and loved ones.

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On the Trail

Corvallis to the sea will soon be possible, thanks to a new trail written by Amira Makansi Unlike some of the other long trails in Oregon, the C2C Trail features a lot of solitude.

THERE IS SOMETHING alluring about the idea of hiking from one place to another without interruption. From the Pacific Crest to the Continental Divide to the Appalachian, hikers in America have tested their mettle against trails that span thousands of miles and traverse the breadth of the country. But you need not walk from Mexico to Canada or Georgia to Maine to achieve the sense of satisfaction that comes from crossing a great distance on your own two feet. Soon, hikers will be able to walk from the heart of the Willamette Valley to the Oregon Coast on a 60-mile stretch of uninterrupted trail. The Corvallis-to-the-Sea Trail Partnership has finished construction on the first half of a trail that will lead—as the name indicates—from downtown Corvallis through the coastal mountain range and finish at the Oregon Coast just north of Seal Rock. Parts of the trail will be accessible to equestrians and bicyclists as well. At present, only the first 30 miles have been built, much of them along existing bike paths, sidewalks and county roads. But in the fall of 2018 the trail partnership received a twenty-year permit from the U.S. Forest Service to build and maintain the latter half of the trail, and the partnership expects to open the second half no later than the spring of 2020. “There’s that sensation of nearing the coast on your own two legs,” said Gary Chapman, president of the Corvallis-to-the-Sea Trail Partnership. “You can smell it, you can feel it in the air. 82          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


Arriving at the coast, taking your boots off, walking in the surf. It’s a definitive experience.” To him, the idea of being able to walk out his door in Corvallis and onto a stretch of trail that leads through the vast, largely unknown history of the coastal mountains and arrive at the end point of America, flush with saline air and salt spray—that is magic. I wanted a taste of that magic. Like most Oregonians with a thirst for the outdoors, my summer months are spent with my camping gear in my car, my backpack neatly packed, my camp stove and camera always ready to go. So, one three-day weekend in September, I drove to Corvallis to do a day hike of the Corvallis-to-the-Sea trail with an old friend. The section we picked is a part of the Corvallis watershed, paralleling Woods Creek Road. The territory is all protected


Volunteers do trail maintenance.

growth. The light filtered through the trees, pale yellow and evanescent green in the dry season of this temperate rainforest. My companion, a longtime Corvallis resident and an avid backpacker, identified trees and plants as we walked. The biodiversity astounded me. Vine maple, salal, ocean spray and myriad edible berries—black cap raspberry, trailing blackberry, filberts, elderberry, salmonberry, rosehips, Oregon grape, thimbleberry and huckleberry—bunched together in the undergrowth with sword and maidenhead ferns, arrowhead plants and wood sorrel (I couldn’t stop snacking on those lemony leaves). All were watched over from above by Douglas fir, hemlock, oak and alder. The Corvallis-to-the-Sea trail doesn’t have the same sweeping vistas or grand mountains you’d find in the Cascades. But it has two distinct advantages. First—for many, it’s close. Residents of Corvallis can be in the wild sections of the trail in ten to fifteen minutes, and from the surrounding areas it might take you an hour. Second—it’s less crowded. As anyone who has visited the

Cascades in recent years knows, the sweeping vistas and grand mountains draw crowds, from PCT thru-hikers to ambitious Instagram photographers to Portlanders in various shades of Subaru. Not so with the C2C. My hiking buddy and I spent half a day on the trail and saw exactly four other people—all walking a different trail, up to the summit of Mary’s Peak. That was on one of the most accessible stretches. Farther into the Coast Range, I would have been surprised to see a single soul. There’s more than meets the eye on this trail, with or without a knowledgeable plant guide to inform your hike. “There’s a lot of history out there,” Chapman said. “Much of the trail goes across old homesteads [from the nineteenth century] that have been lost because people couldn’t make any money out there. Those lands eventually became national forest.” Look carefully and you might find evidence of Oregon’s early homesteaders, whose tenacity contributed so much of the character of this state—and, in the search, you may happen across a patch of tasty mushrooms. In either case, you’ll be the richer for it.

“There’s that sensation of nearing the coast on your own two legs. You can smell it, you can feel it in the air. Arriving at the coast, taking your boots off, walking in the surf. It’s a definitive experience.” — Gary Chapman, president of the Corvallis-to-the-Sea Trail Partnership JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2019

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The hotel’s 119 rooms come in every size and budget, starting with the 113-square-foot, twin-bedfitted Shoebox, and moving up to the Snug, Cosy, and Roomy, a respectable 273 square feet with a king bed or two queens. Designed with a keen sense of style, all rooms are outfitted with Mid-century modern furnishings and fixtures, warm walnut wood paneling, eclectic artwork curated by Pearl District gallery Upfor, ceramics by Southeast Portland’s Clay Factor studio, and fun touches from across the pond, like the retro ’50s-style Roberts radios.


Love late checkout but hate the hefty surcharge? The Hoxton feels your pain—hitting the snooze button after a night on the town will only cost you $10 an hour. Also the height of hospitality, the Hoxton’s signature breakfast bags—check the boxes on the bag indicating how many people will be breakfasting and when, hang it on the doorknob, and find it filled and waiting right on time the next morning.


Submarine Hospitality, the team behind Portland’s highly regarded Ava Gene’s and Tusk restaurants, will manage the hotel’s eateries, Mexican-inspired La Neta and rooftop taqueria Tope, as well as a basement cocktail bar. Also within easy walking distance—downtown gem Little Bird Bistro, popular Pine Street Market food hall, and the clusters of Portland famed food carts parked near SW Stark and Third. Slurp Sichuan beef bone soup with hand-pulled noodles at Stretch the Noodle, or pork and shrimp wonton soup at Mama Chow’s Kitchen.


Wi-fi is free and speedy, the bathrooms stock full-size toiletries from The Hoxton’s signature Blank line, the mini-bar offers complimentary fresh milk and water and promises “high street prices” for all other provisions, and if you feel like calling your old boarding school roommate in London, guests get an hour of international calls for free.


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The Hoxton has transformed an old hotel property in Chinatown with a chic lobby and tons of amenities. Rooms range in sizes and prices. The basement cocktail bar also serves late-night American-Chinese food.

The Hoxton Portland written by Jen Stevenson IF BANISHING THE WINTER doldrums with a vacation (or staycation) to Stumptown is just what the doctor ordered, pack your best walking wellies and check into this hip, playful, delightfully designed new downtown Portland hotel for a long cozy weekend of binge-watching, basement bar cocktail sipping and breakfast in bed. The sixth addition to the globetrotting U.K.-based chain, on the heels of outlets in Paris and Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood, The Hoxton Portland chose to homestead in downtown’s historic Old Town/Chinatown. Set in the 1907 Grove Hotel building at the corner of busy Burnside and NW 4th Street, just inside the landmark Chinatown Gateway, it’s steps from Voodoo Donuts and Portland Saturday Market, and a short stroll from the trendy Pearl District’s shops, parks and restaurants. Adventure seekers can rent a bicycle nearby and loop around Tom McCall Waterfront Park’s riverfront trail to the Eastbank Esplanade and tour the burgeoning inner eastside industrial district, home to Portland’s ale trail and distillery row, or hop the MAX lightrail up to wild and wonderful Washington Park to explore the International Rose Test Garden, Portland Japanese Garden, and miles of serene green Forest Park trails. Or, should the sleet slashing at your window serve as a deterrent to vacating the premises, just settle in with room service and a good book—each room has a miniature library curated by a different Portland mover and shaker. 15 NW 4TH AVE. PORTLAND

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trip planner

Shore Acres State Park has excellent views of the rocky coastline.

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trip planner

Locked In for Adventure Cruising “Oregon’s Adventure Coast” written by Sheila G. Miller

GROWING UP IN the Portland area, the Northern Oregon Coast was easier to access than other coastal areas. That was where I learned that sweatshirts were beach gear and “laying out” was something for other coastal states. But in all my years as an Oregonian, I had hardly set foot on the Southern Oregon Coast except to drive through on my way elsewhere. That changed this fall, when I spent a few days in Coos Bay, North Bend and Charleston. This area of the coast, like other parts of Oregon, was greatly impacted by the timber industry. In 1947, just three years after Coos Bay gave up Marshfield as its name, The Oregonian called the city the “Lumber Capital of the World.” As Oregonians know, that came to an abrupt end in the 1980s, and the area has been searching for its next big thing ever since. Based on my experience this fall, that next thing could very well be tourism. The area has an abundance of outdoors opportunities and vistas that simply can’t be seen in other parts of the state.

Day DUNES • SEAFOOD • BEER Newcomers to the Southern Oregon Coast must visit the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. It’s one of the largest areas of temperate coastal sand dunes in the world, and the sheer breadth of it must be seen to be believed. According to the Oregon Historical Society, studies have determined the youngest dunes, formed in the past 7,000 years, are those nearest the ocean. The higher dunes formed more than 20,000 years ago. I’ve never driven an ATV or dune buggy and didn’t have much faith in my skills. I also didn’t think I’d do a very good job of navigating the dunes. So I enlisted the help of Spinreel Dune Buggy & ATV Rentals and took a tour as a passenger. There’s really no other way to put it—it was so fun. We zoomed up and down dunes and along tiny trails through beach grass. As we bombed along, we paused to look at animal tracks, including deer, cougar and raccoon.

The European beach grass in the dunes is a non-native plant that is damaging the dunes, so volunteer groups regularly gather to yank it out. Once I finished my dune buggy tour, I figured I better check out the dunes on foot. At John Dellenback Dunes Trail, I felt a bit like I was in a moonscape. You can also try the Bluebill Trail at Horsfall Beach for a different view. Exhausted, it was time for a rest. I checked in at Bay Point Landing, a new luxury property of RV sites and tiny cabins in Coos Bay. My cabin had wifi and cable television and a view of the water. It was a quiet, comfortable respite from my many outdoor adventures, and the cabin felt much bigger than it appeared at first blush. For dinner, I went to 7 Devils Brewing Company. This hotspot is a bright star in a still redeveloping downtown—it was packed and live music was playing. With local art hanging on the walls, a large window to view the beermaking process, and a cozy taproom, this Bendite felt right


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Photos: Visit Coos Bay

trip planner

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Cruise the Oregon Dunes National Scenic Area. South Coast Tours offers kayaking and other trips. 7 Devils Brewing Company is a locals’ hangout.

at home. While the public house has a small menu, it’s a good one—I had a tuna melt, and the fish was clearly fresh and local, likely right out of the bay. I grabbed a sampler tray of beers and particularly enjoyed the Chinook Redd. The pub offers togo beer, and throughout my weekend I found 7 Devils on tap nearly everywhere I went.

Day KAYAKS • STATE PARKS • WATERFALLS My second day on the Southern Coast was filled with even more outdoor adventure. I started the morning with a coffee and pastry from Bayside Coffee in Charleston. This tiny spot is on the way to all the places I would be going that day, and it locally sources most of its products and only buys fair trade coffee beans. Each day, the coffee shop puts up a sign noting from where the coffee has been sourced. My belly full, I took a quick walk along Bastendorff Beach. I was too late to see any morning surfers, but I did have the beach nearly to myself and a great view up and down the coast. A bit farther down the coastline at Sunset Bay, I met up with Dave Lacey, the owner of South Coast Tours. Lacey’s tour company leads kayak, fishing, standup paddleboarding and other tours (including some that are van-based, if you’d prefer a little less of the outdoors). On this windy Saturday 88          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


morning, it would have been a bit much to go too far in the bay on our kayaks, but we did the best we could. Other days, Lacey said, the water is glassy and it’s easy to take a kayak right up to the rocky outcroppings. Today was not that day. Nevertheless, the short kayak got me excited for the rest of my day visiting state parks. Just up the road is Shore Acres State Park, which is perched on a huge cliff overlooking the ocean. The property was once owned by a timber baron, and extensive gardens still sit on the land here. During the holidays the gardens are lit up with hundreds of thousands of lights. But the park doesn’t need those lights to shine. If you’ve planned ahead with binoculars, make sure to stop at Simpson Reef Overlook. From the overlook you can spy seals and sea lions lounging about on the rocks of Shell Island just offshore. Then it was off to Cape Arago State Park, which is literally the end of the road. It has some lovely trails, including one that connects you to a beach filled with driftwood and tidepools. After hiking, I’d worked up an appetite, so it was back to Charleston for lunch before my next hike. I went to High Tide for clam chowder, though the restaurant had a wide variety of seafood options, as well as more standard fare, and it also had a nice view of the bay. Ready to face the rest of the day, I headed farther afield for more adventure. The Golden & Silver Falls State Park is 26 winding and, toward the end, unpaved miles from Coos Bay. It takes nearly an


Susan Tissot

Visit Coos Bay

trip planner

EAT Tokyo Bistro 7 Devils Brewery Sharkbites High Tide Wildflour Cafe

STAY The Mill Casino Hotel & RV Park Bay Point Landing Itty Bitty Inn Best Western Holiday Hotel Edgewater Inn edgewater-inn-coos-bay Coos Bay Manor


CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Golden and Silver Falls State Park feels a world away from the nearby coast. The Coos History Museum has an exhbiit on veterans’ tattoos. Find fresh seafood at Sharkbites.

Spinreel Dune Buggy & ATV Rentals Golden & Silver Falls State Park Shore Acres State Park Cape Arago State Park South Coast Tours

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hour to get there, but the serenity is well worth the drive. Tucked away up different short trails are two waterfalls (you guessed it, Golden Falls and Silver Falls). The day I visited, the trees towering over the paths were shedding leaves and only a few other visitors were around. The crashing waves I’d watched earlier that day felt a world away. On a local’s advice, I tried sushi at Tokyo Bistro for dinner. The fish was fresh and the rolls were prepared quickly. I sat at the sushi bar and watched the sushi chefs prepare my dinner. It was just the thing after a long day outdoors. Finally, I finished my evening with a trip to The Mill Casino in North Bend. The casino, run by the Coquille Indian Tribe, is very clearly the place to be on a weekend night. The casino was packed, as was the sports bar inside. It feels more high end than the average Oregon casino, with thoughtful finishes.


Day HISTORY • SHOPPING • FISH TACOS The Southern Oregon Coast is made for outdoors time. But if the weather is too rainy and blustery, or you’re just craving some culture, the Coos History Museum punches above its weight class. Through the summer, the museum is featuring an exhibit called VET INK: Tattoos Inspired by Military Service. That’s in addition to a pretty extensive collection of historic items and photographs of the region. Coos Bay’s downtown is beginning to perk up, and I found several antique and décor shops worth stopping by. Then it was time for a quick fish taco before I hit the road. I found them at Sharkbites, right along the main drag. While polishing them off, I made a mental list of all the places, sights and adventures I still had yet to tick off on Oregon’s Adventure Coast, and made plans for my next trip here.

northwest destination

Where Rivers and Mountains Meet Bozeman, Montana, is an outdoor lover’s paradise

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As the sun sets and the air cools, Bozeman Hot Springs is a good next step, with twelve natural pools to rotate through. If it’s a weekend, you’re likely to catch some live music alongside the spa’s four outdoor pools. Head to downtown Bozeman for live entertainment. The historic Ellen Theatre and newly restored Rialto play hosts everything from a giant rock-androll puppet show to the newest take on classics like “Oklahoma!” or a band making the rounds. Those looking for Montana-themed grub should stop at Open Range. The menu features the West’s finest, including crispy duck confit, bison tenderloin tartare and venison chop. A Bozeman favorite is Montana Ale Works, with a solid rotation of the state’s beer and a menu to please anyone’s palate, from a local bratwurst plate to Asian ramen with tofu. Winter only adds to the valley. Bozeman’s closest ski mountain, Bridger Bowl, has some of the most technical skiing in the state and lessons for those new to the slopes. Fifty miles south is Big Sky Resort, one of the largest ski resorts out west, with 5,800 acres of terrain across four mountains connected by chairlifts. If downhill skiing isn’t your thing, cross country courses appear throughout Bozeman as snow collects. If you want to enjoy the crisp air without working up a sweat, check out local dog sled and horsedrawn sleigh tours. People with time to spare should explore Bozeman’s wild neighbors. Roughly thirty minutes east of town, beyond a grizzly bear rescue sanctuary and over a mountain pass, is Livingston—where artists and cowboys meet. Drive roughly an hour south and you’ll arrive at the entrance to the wonders of Yellowstone National Park.


MT Office of Tourism and Business Development

THERE’S A REASON people are discovering Bozeman. The town’s growing fast, but with fewer than 50,000 locals, Bozeman has held onto the character that comes with a small ski community framed by mountains. There are packed storefronts with places to eat, drink and find local creations, from leatherwork to plays with live symphonies. The sun rises over the Bridger Mountains and dips behind the Tobacco Roots with forty-three peaks reaching beyond 10,000 feet—what to do between those ranges is endless. For ambitious hikers, Sacajawea Peak is a 4-mile trip pared with a 2,000-foot elevation gain. Those who take on the trail are rewarded with views from the highest point in the Bridgers, Bozeman’s nearest range. Sypes Canyon Trail offers a less-steep family day hike. The 4-mile round trip weaves through a creek-fed canyon on the west side of the Bridgers and unfolds to rocky open sections and shady forests before it lands at an overlook of Bozeman. The trail is also conveniently on the way to one of the town’s more than a dozen breweries. MAP Brewery offers a view of the mountains you just climbed and a chance to recharge with a pint and a hot sandwich. The Gallatin Valley floor is where rivers meet, making it a haven for fly-fishing enthusiasts. Stop by a local fly shop to check out the latest fishing reports, then strike out to the blue ribbon Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin rivers. History buffs can head over Bozeman Pass toward the Yellowstone River, tracing the route William Clark’s team followed in the 1800s. Head underground to the Lewis and Clark Caverns with a guided state park tour. During parts of the year, you can explore the passages as its first discoverers did—by candlelight.

Travis Andersen

written by Katheryn Houghton

northwest destination


AT TOP Bozeman is tucked among the Bridger Mountains. BOTTOM, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Lewis and Clark Caverns offers guided tours. Bozeman Hot Springs has twelve natural pools. Big Sky Resort is 50 miles south of Bozeman. Fly-fishing is a popular pastime. Open Range has a tomahawk steak.

EAT Backcountry Burger Montana Ale Works Bridger Brewery Dave’s Sushi Montana Fish Company

STAY Treasure State Hostels Rainbow Ranch Lodge The Lark Historic Rialto Bozeman Silver Creek Cabins www.montanasilvercreek


MT Office of Tourism and Business Development

Emerson Center for the Arts and Culture Museum of the Rockies The Ellen Theatre The Rialto Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park lewis-and-clark-caverns Bridger Creek Golf Course Walking Mountains Brewery

Bozeman Convention and Visitors Bureau

The Molly Brown themollybrown


1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      93


The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham


The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport


Albany Corvallis


John Day


Sisters Florence




Eugene Springfield

Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon


Grants Pass Brookings



Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls





16 FisherPoets Gathering

48 GoCamp


Tillamook Air Museum

24 Oregon Truffle Festival

50 Life & Time


Corvallis to the Sea Trail

26 The Dog Spot



The Hoxton

28 Crossroads Farm

52 Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue


Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

39 Aurora Mills Architecture Salvage

54 Soul River Inc.


Bozeman, MT

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Until Next Time

I Dreamed We Were Floating written by Kathryn Bold | illustrated by Allison Bye

ON THE DAY my husband died, he was in the garage building a canoe—one large enough, he’d promised, for the two of us to paddle together on the lakes near our Powell Butte home. That morning I’d gone for a walk in the juniper-covered hills, but before I left I peeked in on his progress. I can still see him hunkered over the hull, his face obscured by a mask to protect him from the clouds of sawdust he was raising as he moved his sander back and forth over his sleek mosaic. When I returned home a couple hours later and opened the garage door, the first thing I noticed was the sander. It was sitting on the canoe’s curved shell and plugged into the wall, as though he’d just stepped away for a moment. Steven Wayne Berry came from a long line of machinists, mechanics and tinkerers—people who liked to build stuff with their hands, to fix whatever was broken. His grandfather, Emil Odin Erickson, worked as a mechanic on the Spirit of St. Louis. Steve had a photo of grandpa with Charles Lindbergh and a box of his old tools to prove it. Though he became an architect, Steve just as easily could have been a mechanic like Emil, or perhaps a carpenter. He once built me a lovely trellis out of lumber he had lying around his workshop. I don’t recall hiring a plumber, electrician or repairman during our seven short years together. My motherin-law Aggie said it best—Steve was a can-do guy. If you needed anything, you called him. As an extreme example, when my cousin’s wife, Joy, needed a kidney, Steve agreed to donate one of his, even though he’d never met the woman. “Just another service I provide,” he joked. And, like any good handyman, he had the right spare part. Steve had long talked of making a canoe by hand, and after we retired he got his chance, ordering a kit online for a strip cedar two-seater. To my untrained eye, it looked like expensive scrap wood, but after months of toil he’d sawed, shaped, filed and assembled the pieces into a beautiful boat-shaped jigsaw. He was 55 and close to completing his dream project when he suffered a massive heart attack. The first and only warning sign was a throbbing pain in his upper arms, which he wrongly assumed was caused by overdoing it with the sander. By the time I returned from my walk, he’d been resting in the bedroom for about twenty minutes. Although he claimed he was feeling better, we decided to go to urgent care and have him checked 96          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE


out, just as a precaution. Neither of us realized the full extent of the danger. He even insisted on driving. As we headed down the two-lane country road toward Bend, Steve asked me to search the internet for “lactic acid buildup” on my cell phone—he was so sure he’d just overworked his muscles. I was staring at my screen when I heard him say, “I feel dizzy.” I looked up in time to see his head droop forward toward the steering wheel. He’d passed out. I grabbed the wheel to keep the car from careening into a ditch, then shifted the transmission into park. We rolled to a stop in the middle of the street. A few kindly passersby—local ranchers and neighbors—pulled up in their trucks to help, followed by a team of paramedics. Steve never regained consciousness. After his death, I struggled to find a home for the canoe. I was moving back to California to be near family, to a town that had no lakes. Nobody I called had the time or space for a 17-foot unvarnished shell. Just when I thought Steve’s graceful craft would wind up as kindling, I found a taker: Habitat for Humanity. Although they build affordable houses (not boats), the Habitat volunteers agreed to haul away the canoe and sell it at their donation center in Redmond. A year has passed since I watched two men roll the canoe slowly down the driveway and load it into their truck as carefully as pallbearers wheeling a casket. I don’t know if they ever did sell it or cut it up for building material. Frankly, I’m afraid to ask. I just tell myself that another couple bought it, and now they go paddling together the way Steve dreamed we would—floating on one of Oregon’s crystalline lakes, right into the sunset.

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1859 Oregon's Magazine | January/February 2019