www.nuts2severozapad.cz www.europa.eu
Published by the Carlsbad INFORMATION CENTER www.karlovyvary.cz UNPURCHASABLE
mysterious CARLSBAD what you won’t find in the guidebook
Introduction
The spa city of Carlsbad is full of beautiful stories, which can be divided into two groups: • Historical facts. Stories and events that are well documented. Some of them are very interesting, others less so. • Legends, gossip, lies, fabulation, and conspiracy. These are the stories that Carlsbad citizens tell each other. These are stories that give the spa city its atmosphere.
This is a guide that draws mostly from stories passed down from generation to generation by citizens of Carlsbad. We could not fit all of the interesting history of the city into this small booklet, but you will find out when, where, who, why, how, and for how much. If this is what you are interested in, we invite you for a stroll through the beautiful city of Carlsbad. Individual stops are on the right and left bank of the TeplĂĄ River, and a small bonus in the form of two hikes in hills surrounding the city.
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Sadová kolonáda Park Colonnade
The magnificent work of architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. These two names appear in our guidebook very often. Their architectural studio had a very good reputation in its time, and so the number of commissions from Carlsbad were quite logical. However, the Park Colonnade as we can see it today is only a fraction of the original grand work of Fellner and Helmer. It was part of the so-called Blanenský Pavilion. The pavilion was named after the Blansko ironworks, in which iron parts from which the entire structure was assembled were manufactured. A concert and restaurant hall was located in the pavilion. It was a very popular place for various meetings. Famous and less famous visitors of Carlsbad were eager for social distractions – and the beautiful and modern hall was made for such distraction. People do not just visit Carlsbad for treatment, but also to show themselves and have fun. And who played music for them? The Carlsbad Symphony Orchestra of course, which, at the time, was led by the son of the founder of the orchestra, August Labitzký. They played everything – quadrille, polka, gallopade, and waltz. Two of the many pieces by Josef Labitzký, the Carlsbad Waltz and the Spa Polka, were without exaggeration huge hits at the time. It is said that some visitors were able to dance through three pairs of shoes in an evening. In 1966 the pavilion was demolished, leaving only the Park Colonnade. The Colonnade contains the Snake Spring, and the Orchard Spring spews near the Colonnade. The Dvořák Park is adjacent to the Colonnade, with many beautiful places to sit. Find yourself a bench, admire the view of the Park Colonnade, and listen. You might hear the beautiful music of times gone by. And don’t forget to check the soles of your shoes.
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address: Dvořåk Park year of construction: 1884 architect: Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer architectural style: Neo-Renaissance
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Mlýnská kolonáda Mill Colonnade
It is beautiful, spacious, and perhaps too modern for Carlsbad, at least from the perspective of residents of the city when the Colonnade was built. Today it is one of the city’s dominating features, but at the beginning it certainly wasn’t easy for the Colonnade or the architect who designed it, Zítek. Before the Mill Colonnade, a different colonnade stood here. A wooden one. It was called... Well it’s not important. The Carlsbad citizens simply called it the Honky-tonk. If you think they called it that because of the dance, you are wrong. They called it Honky-tonk because it had a wooden floor and every step could be heard far and wide. The townspeople who lived in close proximity complained of persistent noise caused by the steps of the spa guests. You know, the Carlsbad patients move around without a moment’s rest. Digestive systems are treated here, and so there is no siesta, for example. It makes sense. People who are on a diet and don’t each lunch are not entitled to a siesta. It is the same with breakfast and dinner. And do you really think no one walked on the Colonnade in the night? They did. If for no other reason, simply out of sheer malice. This was at least what the townspeople thought. The situation escalated so much that the councilors were forced to hold an architectural competition for a new colonnade. If possible, a stone one, and thus non-resonating. The competition was won by architect Zítek. His design was indeed nice, but too modern and bold for the taste of the town hall. And so the councilors reduced the original project by one floor on paper. Never mind, the Mill Colonnade is still beautiful. It was built for ten long years, and the townspeople could not get used to it for a long time. Although it made no sound, it marred the area. It was called all sorts of things, mostly derogatory. Bowling alley or bed of carrots. Even the spa guests liked it before the residents of the town.
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address: Mlýnské nábřeží year of construction: 1870–1881; 1892 architect: Josef Zítek architectural style: Neo-Renaissance
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Lázeňský orchestr Spa Orchestra
We have already mentioned the Mill Colonnade. Let’s go back to it for a while. If you come to Carlsbad during the spa season and the weather is decent, you can visit the colonnade the local symphony orchestra concert. It is the traditional place for the traditional orchestra. Music simply belongs in colonnades. It illustrates the romantic atmosphere of the spa city, and many doctors agree that in addition to drinking cures and walks in the woods, the colonnade music is one of the cornerstones of the treatment. The original Spa Orchestra was founded by musician, composer, and conductor Josef Labitzký in 1835. Therefore, our orchestra is one of the oldest and best orchestras of them all. Why? For example, on May 1, 1879, at the opening of the spa season, Antonín Dvořák himself introduced his Solemn March. And because the Spa Orchestra gave a superior performance, on July 20, 1894 – with the author’s permission – a continental premiere of Dvořák’s New World Symphony was held at the Carlsbad Post Yard. According to reports in the press, the New World Symphony in Carlsbad had such phenomenal success that it was repeated at request of the audience on August 3. Today’s Carlsbad Symphony Orchestra can boast of such important historical moments. We can find many interested documents in its archive, including the original score of Dvořák’s New World Symphony with handwritten notes by August Labitzký, the son of the founder of the orchestra, Dvořák’s friend, and also a very good conductor.
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foundation: 1835 Seasonal Spa Ensemble (founder Josef LabitzkĂ˝) 1875 Permanent Symphony Orchestra (founder August LabitzkĂ˝)
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Tržní kolonáda Market Colonnade
This is where the first Carlsbad spa stood, where even Emperor Charles IV enjoyed treatments. According to an old legend, a stone throne was hewn in the rock at the site of today’s Market Colonnade, on which the emperor sat and bathed his feet wounded at the battle of Crécy in the hot spring. Another legend says that the throne is much older and has been there since the time of the pagan settlement of the valley of the river Teplá. An old town hall also stood here. If Charles IV himself used to sit here, it is a good place for the reputable council, they must have thought to themselves. The old town hall was demolished in 1875, and an architectural competition was issued for a new colonnade. They were choosing long and meticulously, until they chose no one. In the end they chose a safe bet. They chose architects from Vienna Fellner and Helmer, when they have succeeded so beautifully with the Park Colonnade. The assignment was as follows – gentlemen, we need a stopgap, do you have any ideas? And the gentlemen had an idea, because they were in every aspect professionals. And so in 1883 the Swiss chalet style wooden colonnade was built. The cost of the colonnade construction was only 10,000 florins, which is negligible in comparison with the costs for other Carlsbad colonnades. The Market Colonnade covers three springs. The Charles IV Spring, known formerly as Gorger. The name comes from the time when patients were dipped in the water. See the chapter about Dr. Becher. The remaining two springs are the Lower Castle Spring and the Market Spring. The temporary colonnade is still there today, and time has not damaged it at all. This is a little mistake. The colonnade was completely renovated in the 1990s. However, all the construction elements of the colonnade were thoroughly retained. This is what a good Carlsbad stopgap looks like.
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address: Marketplace year of construction: 1883 architect: Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer architectural style: Swiss chalet style renovation: 1991–1993 under renovation faithful copy of the original colonnade of 1883 9
Zámecká věž Castle tower
It is very strange that though the city was founded by Emperor and King Charles IV, there is no castle in the city. There was a Gothic castle from the time of Charles IV, but only the castle tower remained – and we should be happy to have it. The castle was destroyed by a great fire in 1604. The tower was partially preserved and converted into a watchtower. Another big fire in 1759 also greatly damaged it, resulting in a complete renovation and rebuilding of the tower. The townspeople had a wonderful idea. „We could welcome noble guests from the tower with fanfares. For a proper tax, of course!“ And so an apartment was built for the tower keeper in the loft. A very practical measure. The tower keeper could sit in the tower all day and sound the trumpets, without unnecessarily going up and down. Frankly, after running up the stairs to the Castle Tower, even a person with perfect physical fitness couldn’t blow the trumpet. The idea caught on quickly, and soon the horns celebrating the arrival of distinguished guests began to resonate through the valley. It was simple. The tower keeper’s wife ran around town all day offering incoming visitors this wonderful service. Once she received the money, she sent the children scampering to the tower to give the message to their father. According to the amount paid, the horns sounded for a long or short period of time, loudly or quietly – and if the amount paid was really high, the tower keeper announced the name and title of the visitor with such verve it’s a miracle he didn’t damage his lungs. And do you know why they don’t sound the trumpets in the tower today? Not every spa visitor comes to the city for treatment. Some people just want to enjoy the peace and quiet of the spa life. And to be honest, if you go to the city incognito, this service is definitely not for you. 10
address: ZĂĄmeckĂ˝ vrch 431 year of construction: 1349, 1608, 1766, 1878 architectural style: Gothic
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Dům U tří mouřenínů House at the Three Moors
A truly legendary house. Unfortunately, the house is not standing anymore. But not everything disappeared. The stucco decoration from the original house was transferred to the new building, and even the front door is original. There is an interesting inscription on the door, but more on that later. Why is the House at the Three Moors so famous? In 1759 a fire swept through the town. 224 buildings were burnt to ashes, including the Castle Tower and the old town hall. The fire was reportedly accidentally started by a seamstress. Maybe she fell asleep after a long day of work, and the fire was started by an unguarded candle. So much for the most famous part of the history of the house. And now for something positive. Between 1806–1820 the famous Johann Wolfgang Goethe lived here several times. He was treated in Karlovy Vary a total of 13 times, and he spent a total of 3 years of his life here. He made a very well known statement: „I could only live in Rome, Weimar, and Carlsbad.“ In the times when he was visiting Carlsbad he was already a star, and it was an open secret that he spent all his free time with young girls whom he called gently “eyelets”. After all “little loves are all that can make the spa stay bearable, otherwise we would die of boredom”, he used to say. In 1811 the poet was accompanied by Christiana Vulpius “Goethe’s fatter half”, as some called her. When she saw how many girls her husband looks at, she very wisely decided to give the master a taste of his own medicine. She apparently began to flirt with a Russian officer. The famous poet was very disgusted. From then on, he behaved decently and properly in Carlsbad. And the mentioned inscription on the famous entrance door on the House of the Three Moors? Proclaims to the world that Goethe passed through here.
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address: Tržiště 377/25 year of construction: 1760 architect: Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer architectural style: Rococo reconstruction: Karl Heller, Friedrich Ohmann year of reconstruction: 1909–1910 architectural style: Vienna Secession 13
Kamzík Chamois
Perhaps the city’s most photographed symbol. Deer leap – with a chamois. Why? We all know that many songs say “the king chased the deer”... This is all because of baron August Friedrich Ulrich von Lützow. He ordered a statue of a chamois from his friend August Kiss. It was obviously a provocation, which worked. There isn’t one visitor of Carlsbad who doesn’t as – out loud or to himself – “why a chamois?” Let us think like baron Lützow for a moment. If you stand in front of the cliff from which the deer reportedly jumped, it must be clear that if the deer didn’t have wings, he had no chance of reaching the Hot Spring. He would not even get there with great effort fighting to save his life. Some studies say he crawled to the Hot Spring. Some even claim he rolled there. A deer crawling? A deer rolling? That is nonsense. Moreover, even if the Hot Spring flowed in a different place than today, he would not get there from that height otherwise than – at least – battered, or – at worst – in pieces. And if we believe that King Charles IV chased the aforementioned deer up. He wounded him, the deer soaked in the Hot Spring water, and was miraculously healed. But what if Charles chased the deer somewhere else… Honestly, why this cliff and why a chamois? The cliff was chosen for purely aesthetic reasons – and the chamois was chosen because he would theoretically have a better chance of jumping all the way to the spring. Moreover, a chamois would fit on the relatively small peak of the cliff much better than a well-built deer. Here in Carlsbad we have always been mostly practical. Of course, baron Lützow was the most practical of them all – and the provocation with the chamois was one of his funniest.
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address: Deer Leap year of construction: 1851 architect: August Kiss copy: Jan Kotek (1986)
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Založení města Founding of the city
The legend says that one autumn in the second half of the 14th century, King and Emperor Charles IV went hunting in the valley of the Teplá River. He then came upon a deer and... This is when the legend dissolves in the mists of ancient times. One version of the story says that the deer was fatally injured, but he dipped his graceful body in the Hot Spring water and was miraculously healed. Another version says that the deer was chased onto the cliff from which he couldn’t escape, because he was surrounded by chasers and hunters. He supposedly saved himself by jumping. He landed in the Hot Spring water and was scalded. Morbid? Yes, but it’s what the legend says. So how was it really? Emperor and King Charles IV most likely spent the autumn at Loket Castle. He was a prudent statesman and an older man, at least in those times – he was already over thirty. Running through the woods and hunting was certainly not one of his favorite activities. It is possible, however, that it was a social issue, a ride to clear his head with hunting as an extension of a pleasant afternoon. And it was a very long ride. It’s a good ten miles from Loket to Carlsbad, if you don’t take into account wading across the Ohře River. People have lived in the valley of the Teplá River since forever. They were strange, just like the surroundings of the hot and somewhat scary springs. Would a deer, in a fit of panic and driven by fierce hunters, jump directly into these inhospitable parts? The only certainty is that Emperor and King Charles IV suddenly stood beside the Hot Spring. And because he was a very wise man, he immediately recognized the healing power of the water at first taste...
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founder: Charles IV foundation: 14th century 1370 Upgrading of the settlement to a city 1707 Naming it a free city
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Císařské lázně Imperial Spa
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful buildings of the spa city of Carlsbad, also called Spa I. by the locals. A beautiful spa house with even more beautiful interiors. The two sculptures at the entrance to the spa are called Life Force and Healing Power. They not only symbolize the spa, but also the masculine and feminine principle. On the spa facade there are panels that bear the names of people who have contributed to the Carlsbad spas. In the interior there are two wall paintings of the most famous visitors of Carlsbad. The first painting shows people from the Renaissance till 1791. The second shows visitors from 1791 till the First World War. While the first painting, among other things, depicts the treatment weary J. W. Goethe, the second painting is dominated by Emperor Franz Joseph I. All kinds of Carlsbad procedures were provided in the Imperial Spa. 90 vans with dressing rooms and rest rooms, and the so-called Imperial Bath equipped with the greatest luxuries, including a gold tub, were preserved In 1904 Emperor Franz Joseph I visited Carlsbad. Everyone was happy that the Imperial Spa will live up to its name, and the head of the Austro-Hungarian Empire will lie in the gold tub. For what is an Imperial Spa without an emperor in the mud bath? The Emperor looked at the spa, nodded significantly, perhaps even praised the beauty of the interior, but he didn’t get into the tub. Too bad. However, after 1948 everyone bathed in it – prominent politicians, film stars, and winners of the famous Peace Race. The heart of the Imperial Spa was the Zander Hall equipped with 55 mechanical exercise devices. Yes, a sort of gym of the late 19th century. Carlsbad was always one step ahead, and it was most likely one of the first cities where you could work out.
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address: Mariรกnskolรกzeล skรก 306/2 year of construction: architect: Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer architectural style: Neo-Renaissance
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Městské divadlo City Theater
We will talk about Fellner and Helmer – for the third time; but first, let’s admit that many interesting things happened in the Carlsbad theater culture long before these two architects designed the beautiful building of the local theater. The first mention of theatrical performances in Carlsbad date back to the early 18th century. Back then it was a street production. Actors only received a permanent stage in 1717. It was a hut made of planks, mortar – and reed! The first brick theater in Carlsbad was built in 1787, the so-called Schauspielhaus, officially the Becher Theater. The construction cost 7,000 florins, and Dr. David Becher lent the city 4,000 interest free. It is no wonder that the theater bears his name. The house served its purpose until 1884. Then it was decided to build a new, modern, and safe building. Why safe? Because in the late 19th century many theaters throughout Europe were burned to ashes, including our National Theater. And they say that art stands today have it difficult... A selection procedure was launched, which was won by Fellner an Helmer. Not only because their design was truly beautiful and they were already established in Carlsbad; they responded very quickly to the strange situation with burning theaters and the emphasis on the safety of buildings became a part of their corporate strategy. The construction only took two years. Gustav Klimt was commissioned with the decoration of the interiors, including the painting of the curtain. One more interesting fact about the theater. The loges of important audience members among representatives of political and cultural life are placed where there is a very bad view of the stage. It wasn’t important to see but to be seen. That is simply how it was in the time when Fellner and Helmer designed their beautiful buildings.
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address: Novå Louka 22 year of construction: 1884–1886 architect: Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer architectural style: Inspired by Baroque and Rococo
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Vřídlo
Hot Spring The largest, most famous, and most beautiful spring in Carlsbad. The most important symbol and attribute of the city. Today the Hot Spring is regulated. The borehole is regularly checked and maintained. However, before this became a custom, many almost incredible things happened. In historical records we can read that the Hot Spring disappeared several times. For residents of Carlsbad this was a big shock. Without the Hot Spring the city didn’t seem as beautiful and unique. According to historical records, the city virtually stopped. There was panic and chaos. Some of little faith even left the city. Then the Hot Spring reappeared. In many cases it appeared somewhere else than where it originally flowed. The residents didn’t think about it too much and quickly built a new shelter for this incredible gift. Everyone was relieved, those of little faith humbly returned, and the city worked on without problems. In retrospect, it looks quite funny, but the people then certainly didn’t think so. If you search carefully, you will find that the spring disappeared in fairly precise intervals. It’s strange and incomprehensible that nobody noticed for a long time. The Hot Spring is not only beautiful and medicinal, it can also turn things to stone. If you submerge anything into the Hot Spring for a certain amount of time, it will get covered in sinter. It simply turns to stone. And so people like to dip flowers, the first shoes, and many other more or less interesting things in the Hot Spring water.
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address: Hot Spring Colonnade year of construction: 1967–1975 architect: Jaroslav Otruba Architectural style: Functionalism
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Dr. David Becher Also known as the Hippocrates of Carlsbad, was born in 1725 in the House at two Chains, which used to stand in today’s Hot Spring Street, across from the park under the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene. After his studies in Prague, he worked for some time as a doctor in Vienna. However, the memories of his childhood spent near the Hot Spring brought him home to Carlsbad. He was interested in balneology and he knew that the contemporary treatment in Carlsbad is not quite right. And how did the treatment look back then? From the time when Charles IV (and for many years thereafter) treated his aching limbs in Carlsbad, the treatment was more like suffering. Spa doctors at the time recommended sitting in tubs with the healing waters for long hours. For so long until the skin began to crack. They believed that this will help the disease leave the body. And they got away with it for a very long time. Until someone thought that in addition to this torture, it would be nice to drink the healing water as well. It is easy to imagine the elegant sipping of the water from the drinking fountains. However, they drank the water from ewers in atrocious amounts. It is said that some patients pretended to miraculously recover, only to escape from this hell. It was a matter of time before a drastic change in treatment methods took place. The first person to realize that something was wrong was Dr. David Becher himself. This wise spa doctor completely changed the treatment in Carlsbad. Procedures according to his innovative methods are carried out practically to the present day. He stopped the abuse of patients with long baths in Carlsbad water and reduced the amount of water they drank. His famous quote “drink and walk� had a major influence on the shape and course of spa stays in Carlsbad.
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born: February 2nd 1725, (died 1792) he found: all springs have the same composition, they only differ in temperature and CO2 content he introduced: drinking water at the springs, doctor’s offices on the colonnade, dietary food he banned: mating of poultry and washing laundry in the Hot Spring 27
Dům Petr Peter House
One of the oldest baroque timber-framed buildings in Carlsbad. At the time of its construction, the house was situated directly behind the city gate, from which the road led to Cheb. Yes, this is where Carlsbad ended in the early 18th century. The house was originally called The Golden Ox. There is a commemorative plaque on the house with the profile of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, but the house does not bear his name. It refers to an event that occurred opposite Peter House. The House at the Peacock used to stand there, and Tsar Peter the Great helped the masons with its construction in 1711. He was a man who had to try things out for himself, and so there are numerous memorials to him. In Carlsbad, for example, he carved the legs to a three-square card table with his own hands, he won a shooting competition of Carlsbad sharpshooters, and rode bareback to the rocky peak of Deer Leap, but that was a part of a bet. So who is Peter House named after? After Johann Petter, who lived in the house in the 1920s. Initially the restaurant in the house was named At the City of Athens, but after the adjustments made by Johann Petter in 1923, it was renamed Petter. In the second half of the 20th century a cinema café was established, popular mostly among the young generation. Watching movies and consuming... anything, was modern long before the existence of today’s multiplexes. In 2000 a total adaptation of the house was completed, keeping all the valuable parts. When we are at Peter House, we can imagine what Baroque Carlsbad looked like.
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address: Vřídelní 86/15 year of construction: 1706–1709 architectural style: Baroque reconstruction: Heinrich Johann Vieth year of reconstruction: 1923
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Baron Lützow The house of one of the greatest figures of Carlsbad’s history, the villa Lützow. It is named after baron August Friedrich Ulrich von Lützow. Baron Lützow was the son of Lords of Mecklenburg. He had a boisterous, fun, and dangerous youth. He tried a career in the military. Unsuccessfully. Perhaps he loved life too much. He tried to be a painter, but was also unsuccessful. He was good at Bohemianism, but lacked talent. He tried trade. No need to comment... He finally decided to be a rentier – and he was great at it. When he was wondering where to settle down after the death of his parents, he was hit by either fate or his wild life. He became a patient in the valley of the Teplá River and Carlsbad bewitched him. He became a true patriot. He was interested in everything, the history, present, and future of the city. He allegedly paid for a poor girl’s wedding, and because he acted as a patron of lovers, couples still visit his grave at the cemetery Drahovický hřbitov. Lützow’s most wonderful idea was the chamois. The Baron paid for a statue that one day appeared on the cliff above the city. It was created by sculptor Kiss. The chamois soon became the darling of the whole city and spa guests. Even the local councilors liked it, and so they voted to reward the Baron. They gave him a statue of Charles IV as a gift, well... it was more like a statuette. There was not enough money in the city treasury, so it was only four feet tall. The councilors placed it on a tall column, so when seen from below it didn’t look so small. But it was no good – the Baron took it as a terrible insult. He ordered another animal statue from Kiss, this time a cat. He then placed the cat on a pillar with its backside turned to the town hall. And so Charles and a cat stand together near the Lützow villa to this day. And if you’re looking for a symbol in this story, keep looking...
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address: Jean de Carro Park 542 year of construction: 1853–1854 architectural style: Empire style
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Do you know that... • The activity of Carlsbad thermal springs is accompanied by the formation of sediments. Proof of the power of such activity is the 16m thick layer of sinter, located under the Hot Spring Colonnade, the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene, and houses between the Theater and the Mill Colonnade. From the 18th century it has been used to manufacture various souvenirs. • Aragonite in Carlsbad creates so-called “pistolite”, which are different sizes of granules or pellets of aragonite cemented together. The altar in the crypt of the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene is inlaid with pistolite. • The “turning into stone” process is used to manufacture Carlsbad stone roses, you will be introduced to the “turning into stone” process during an excursion route. • The spa cup, which is an essential tool for every visitor, comes from the 16th century when the water was ladled into simple glass cups with holders so the clients didn’t get burnt and wet. In the 17th century the cups were made from a new material, stoneware. Later they were made from frosted glass serving as an imitation of precious porcelain, and then in the early 19th century porcelain factories began manufacturing porcelain cups, which developed into the present. • At the initiative of Dr. Becher, thermal salt has been produced and sold since 1764, replacing the spa bath (by adding it to water). Today’s Carlsbad salt is suitable for influencing the activity of the gastric mucosa, the small intestine, liver, gallbladder, and pancreas. It can be used in functional disorders of the stomach, peptic ulcer of the stomach and duodenum, constipation, dyskinesia of the biliary tract, pancreatic disease, diabetes, liver disease, obesity, and impaired lipid metabolism, and as prevention of gout and oxalate kidney stones.
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Do you know that... • The Hot Spring water is also used in the production of wafers. • Traditional Carlsbad coffee is also prepared using the mineral water • If one realizes while taking a stroll through the spa area of Carlsbad that he doesn’t have a watch, he needn’t despair. If it’s not cloudy, you can use the remarkable analemmatic sundial near the Hot Spring Colonnade. The sundial is a work of art made from bronze and stone. One is his own indicator on the sundial.
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www.nuts2severozapad.cz www.europa.eu
Published by the Carlsbad INFORMATION CENTER www.karlovyvary.cz UNPURCHASABLE
mysterious CARLSBAD what you won’t find in the guidebook