RAW DEALS
BYSALTY LANGUAGE: DEFINING THE TERMS
In most cities, a raw bar would be indistinguishable from an oyster bar; with oysters pretty much being all that’s on offer. But here in Seattle, we’re blessed with such pristine seafood that many restaurants go raw with a variety of fish, crustaceans and seafoods. Here’s how we’re defining the terms.
OYSTER BAR: A place serving several varieties of oysters, raw on the half shell, at a bar.
RAW BAR: A place serving more than just raw oysters, including raw fish, raw clams, mussels, scallops, and/or assorted crudo (Italian-style raw seafood). These dishes are listed on menus and arrive with all the accoutrements. They can also be quite creative.
RAWBARS
CAPITOL HILL ANCHOVIES & OLIVES [RAW BAR]
There’s no better or longer menu of raw bar offerings than those found here at Ethan Stowell’s Capitol Hill corner eatery. Scallops in citrus oil with marjoram, mackerel with smoked grapes, pickled fennel and pine nuts, and at least four varieties of local oysters anchor a lengthy list of seafood starters. But the entrées are fish heaven, too, with wild salmon, halibut, clams and octopus in starring roles, when in season. 1550 15th Ave.; 206.838.8080; ethanstowellrestaurants.com
$2Í$
COASTAL KITCHEN [OYSTER BAR]
Come in from the cold and park yourself on a barstool at the new oyster bar at this easygoing, family-friendly Capitol Hill favorite. Five oyster varieties are displayed on ice on any given day; they’re shucked, placed on ice and served with a choice of preserved lemon-cucumber relish (seasonal), fresh horseradish or house cocktail sauce. At happy hour (weekdays, 3–6 p.m., and again after 10 p.m. or 9 p.m. on Mondays), the chef’s choice oysters are just $1.25 a pop, which is about half price. 429 15th Ave. E; 206.322.1145; coastalkitchenseattle.com
$2Í$
MOMIJI [RAW BAR] Warm lighting and a lively social scene keep the bar humming, but we find the raw bar selections even more appealing: hamachi tartare with black tobiko in a wasabi-soy-mustard, a delicious ahi poke salad and yellowtail with jalapeño in a citrus ponzu sauce are among the dozen raw preparations. Keep the raw party going with sushi; all the classics are here, along with an extensive list of rolls. 1522 12th Ave.; 206.457.4068; momijiseattle.com
$2Í$
BALLARD
BALLARD ANNEX OYSTER HOUSE
[OYSTER BAR] At the nautically designed Ballard Annex (owned by the Matador folks, who also own Kickin’ Boot Whiskey Kitchen), the menu boasts seafood of all stripes and from all over the country: lobster, Dungeness and Maryland blue crab, salmon, white fish and so on. But the list of oysters is where we concentrate our time: Usually six or more varieties are packed into ice behind the bar, and if you can manage to arrive during two happy hours (3:30–6 p.m., 10 p.m.–midnight), the bivalves are just $1.50 a pop. 5410 Ballard Ave. NW; 206.783.5410; ballardannex.com $2BÏ$
THE WALRUS & THE CARPENTER
[OYSTER BAR] At Renee Erickson’s famously popular oyster bar, the décor and vibe seem inspired by the sea: a splendid vintage chandelier that looks as if it is covered in coral, and cool zinc countertops that mirror the grays and whites of the shells. But obviously we’re not here to gaze at the room (well, not only): From nine to 12 oyster varieties vie for our attention, beautifully displayed in wire baskets on the bar, along with a particularly great list of white wines. Cooked seafood here is also worth investigating. 4743 Ballard Ave. (behind Staple & Fancy Mercantile); 206.395.9227; thewalrusbar.com $2BÏ$
Seattle magazine’s rotating guide of notable restaurants is independent of advertising. Expenses are paid by Seattle magazine; visits are anonymous.
$ PARKING
2 RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED
N FULL BAR
B LIVE MUSIC
Ï OUTDOOR DINING
Í LATE-NIGHT DINING
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE
AVERAGE PRICE OF AN ENTRÉE:
¢ $10 OR LESS
$ $11–$19
$$ $20–$29
$$$ $30 AND UP
Washington’s cold, briny winter months mean it’s oyster season, and what better way to celebrate than to slurp some down at Seattle’s oyster palaces and raw bars
STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE
TAYLOR SHELLFISH has been farming oysters in the cold waters of Puget Sound since the 1890s, both north and south of Seattle (in Bow, near Bellingham and in Shelton, respectively). And, lucky for us, both operations have retail outlets that are open for business year around. Stop for oysters (smoked, shucked or raw in the shell) plucked from the beaches right outside just hours before you purchase them at the retail store in Shelton, 130 SE Lynch Road (open every day, except major holidays, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.); 360.432.3300; and the Samish Farm Store, Bow, 2182 Chuckanut Drive (daily, 9 a.m.–5 p.m., October–March, and 9 a.m.–6 p.m. April–September); 360.766.6002; taylorshellfish.com.
TAYLOR SHELLFISH [OYSTER BAR] It’s no surprise that the city’s coolest oyster bar just happens to be attached to the city’s coolest food destination, Melrose Market. Here, Taylor, the country’s biggest oyster-growing company, which is based in Shelton, offers oysters (and crab, mussels, clams, geoduck and more) to take home. But if you’re smart, you’ll opt to sit and slurp a dozen or so just-shucked beauties at one of the tables at the window; best oysters on Capitol Hill, crisp white wine at hand, and some fine people watching, too. 1521 Melrose Ave.; 206.501.4321; taylormelrosecom $2NBÏ$
DOWNTOWN
BLUEACRE SEAFOOD [OYSTER BAR]
At this swish seafood house, the booths are deep and comfy, and the oysters are plump and sensational. Six to 10 local and/or British Columbia–grown varieties are on offer on any given night, displayed on crushed ice at one end of the bar (lucky diners may score one of the eight barstools right in front), but that’s just getting you started. Here you’ll find crisped razor clams
pickled ginger. Oysters, too, are available: One seasonally available variety is served with coriander seed mignonette on the side. And the full dinner menu offers an even more extensive exploration of local seafood. 2001 Fourth Ave.; 206.682.4142; tomdouglas.com $2NBÏ$
RAVENNA
FRANK’S OYSTER HOUSE & CHAMPAGNE PARLOR [OYSTER BAR]
At this warm, romantic neighborhood destination, oysters and bubbly are treated like weeknight treats. Order a dozen on the half shell (six varieties available) with the gin and Lillet mignonette, or opt for cornmeal-crusted and fried oysters with a salad of winter lettuces and yogurt-celery seed dressing. Nine sparkling wines (three of which are Champagne) by the glass are excellent accompaniments. All you have to do is decide to what you’re toasting. 2616 NE 55th St.; 206.525.0220; franksoysterhouse.com $2NBÏ$
WALLINGFORD
LITTLE GULL GROCERY [OYSTER BAR]
with hot mustard, Penn Cove mussels in green curry, black cod, Maine lobster and even housepickled herring on a menu that’s weighed down with seafood. 1700 Seventh Ave.; 206.659.0737; blueacreseafood.com $2NBÏ$
THE BROOKLYN [OYSTER BAR] Belly up to the copper-topped bar for a plate of oysters on the half shell (choose from nine varieties, although the selection changes seasonally) and a perfect martini in this clubby, classic Seattle spot. Here, the service is expert, and there’s a warm conviviality to the place. If you decide to stay for dinner, wild salmon (seasonal), bouillabaisse with prawns, scallops, clams and octopus, and crab cakes fill out the menu (along with a slew of prime steaks). 1212 Second Ave.; 206.224.7000; thebrooklyn.com $2BÏ$
DAHLIA LOUNGE [RAW BAR] At Tom Douglas’ flagship, the “sea bar” menu offers an ever-changing array of raw seafood tastes, served in small portions. Depending on the season, try the geoduck with mint and pear, or the kona kampachi with shiso, shoyu and
SHUCKERS [OYSTER BAR] At Tom Douglas’ flagship, the “sea bar” menu offers an everchanging array of raw seafood tastes, served in small portions. Depending on the season, try the geoduck with mint and pear, or the kona kampachi with shiso, shoyu and pickled ginger. Oysters, too, are available: One seasonally available variety is served with coriander seed mignonette on the side. And the full dinner menu offers an even more extensive exploration of local seafood. 2001 Fourth Ave.; 206.682.4142; tomdouglas. com $2NB $
EASTSIDE
SEASTAR [RAW BAR]
At John Howie’s plush seafood destinations, the raw bars are stocked with far more than just oysters: tender shrimp ceviche, wild salmon poke and an assortment of sushi are offered during the lunch rush, and at dinner, an omakase plate of sashimi and sushi is available, featuring impeccably fresh local and imported fish. Prices are best during happy hour (3:30–6 p.m. on weekdays). Bellevue, 205 108th Ave. NE; 425.456.0010; seastarrestaurant.com. Also in South Lake Union. $2NB $
MONSOON EAST [RAW BAR]
At the sleek Bellevue outpost of Monsoon, oysters on the half shell and a seasonal raw bar dish—such as seared albacore with pineapple, herbs and avocado—are offered every evening. Visit during happy hour (3 p.m.–closing, Sun.–Thu., 3–6 p.m. on weekdays) when oysters are just $1.50 each. 10245 Main St.; 425.635.1112; monsoonrestaurants.com $2NB $
PIKE PLACE MARKET
EMMETT WATSON’S OYSTER BAR
At Seattle’s oldest almost exclusively oyster bar, the first of its kind when newspaperman Emmett Watson opened the place in 1979, the menus are written on paper bags, and the oysters are either raw on the half shell or broiled with Parmesan, bacon and “sauce” (read: butter). Both versions are great, and if you’re not the type to make a fuss about your oysters (or about the décor, which is showing its age), and if you don’t want
to pay a premium or wait in line, then this is your place. Plus: fish and chips, cod, clams and chowder. 1916 Pike Place, Suite 16; 206.448.7721; Facebook, “Emmett Watsons Oyster Bar” $2NB $
SEATOWN SEABAR & ROTISSERIE
[OYSTER BAR]
At the northern end of the Market, right across Virginia Street, is where you’ll find Tom Douglas’ seafood-centric corner bistro. Here, a variety of local oysters are on display and are served with house-made mignonette and lemon in an energetic room with a peekaboo view of Elliott Bay. Still hungry? Opt for Dungeness crab cocktail
At this sweet oyster bar attached to Westward, oyster-shucking champ David Leck (previously at Taylor Shellfish in Melrose Market) oversees the selection and the shucking. We like to stop in, sip a glass of sparkling wine and pop back a dozen of the four to eight varieties offered at any given time. In nicer weather, opt for your oysters outside, in an Adirondack chair, with a premium view of the Seattle skyline. 2501 N Northlake Way; 206.552.8215; westwardseattle.com $2NBÏ$
WATERFRONT
ELLIOTT’S OYSTER HOUSE
and Alaska king crab legs, local albacore tuna poke with cucumber, seaweed and soy sauce, wild salmon (in season), smoked mussels and, of course, Tom’s famous crab cakes (on Friday nights). 2010 Western Ave.; 206.436.0390; tomdouglas.com raw on the half shell or broiled with Parmesan, bacon and “sauce” (read: butter). Both versions are great, and if you’re not the type to make a fuss about your oysters (or about the décor, which is showing its age), and if you don’t want to pay a premium or wait in line, then this is your place. Plus: fish and chips, cod, clams and chowder. 1916 Pike Place, Suite 16; 206.448.7721; Facebook, “Emmett Watsons Oyster Bar” $2NB $
[OYSTER BAR] There’s nothing—nothing!—like sitting front and center in front of the two dozen varieties (depending on the season) of oysters on display behind the oyster bar at Elliott’s. Slurp your way through crisp and cucumber-y northern British Columbia varieties to gamier Hood Canal oysters, masterfully shucked by Elliott’s sous chef, Jorge Hernandez, and his team, and you’ll taste just how much terroir and growing conditions make a difference in flavor and texture. There is simply no better place for an education in oysters. Get there at 3 p.m. for $1 oysters (prices go up by 50 cents every half hour during happy hour, 3–6 p.m.). 1201 Alaskan Way, Pier 56; 206.623.4340; elliottsoysterhouse. com $2NB $
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