JCK March/April 2017 Issue

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH/APRIL 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

A S TA R I S B O R N

CROWNING THE WINNERS OF THE 10 TH ANNUAL JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

R U BY R OYA L É C O L L EC T I O N W I T H G E N U I N E R U B I E S

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E F F YJ E W E L RY.C O M

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1.8 5 5. A S K . E F F Y

D’O R O C O L L EC T I O N

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

MARCH/APRIL 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

SPOTLIGHT ON

S I L V E R THE SEASON’S SLEEKEST, SEXIEST, MOST MARKETABLE STYLES

I N S P I R E D. S P I R I T E D. W I T T Y.

Royal Chain’s new Intuitions bracelets offer a wide appeal to women of all ages. With over 200 styles to choose from, they let a woman express herself or share her feelings in many ways. Made of stainless steel, they’re available in two styles – standard cuff or adjustable friendship – and in white, yellow or rose gold colors.

Intuitions bracelets are an easy self-purchase or make a great gift for a family member or friend and are designed to fit practically any wrist. Retail price is $35.

Of course, everything is backed by the integrity and incredible service of The Royal Chain Group.

Royal Chain gives back $.25 of each bracelet to Baby2Baby, providing low-income children 0-12 years with the basic necessities that every child deserves.

EACH BRACELET IS ACCENTED WITH A GENUINE DIAMOND.

BEAUTIFUL ATTENTION-GRABBING DISPLAY HOLDS 102 BRACELETS.

AVAILABLE IN TWO STYLES, CUFF OR ADJUSTABLE FRIENDSHIP.

I N S P I R E D. S P I R I T E D. W I T T Y. Royal Chain presents Intuitions bracelets, each carrying a personal message of inspiration, spirituality or just plain fun.

Meant to be worn alone or stacked together for a smart, contemporary look, they’re a great self-purchase or as a gift for family or friends. Intuitions are made of stainless steel and come in two styles – standard cuff or adjustable friendship – and fit practically any wrist.

THE ROYAL CHAIN GROUP • 800-622-0960 • INTUITIONSJEWELRY.COM

SO

SWEET AND...

Our Kate Collection is a red-hot seller and our Eden Collection, a modern twist on the classic halo, is simply the sweetest.

Whatever your taste, we’ve got you covered.

SO

SPICY

JCK Luxury Las Vegas Booth 1836 Oceanside Ballroom To become a brand partner today, call 800.606.1749 or visit ShyCreation.com

See us at: JCK LAS VEGAS LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW

Our cat.

Your mouse.  Go to GOLDSTEINDIAMONDS.COM and see over 3,000 pieces of one-of-a-kind antique jewelry and incredible watches.

Fresh inventory every day.

Pricing designed to maximize your profits – with no comparison shopping.

 GOLDSTEINDIAMONDS.COM

800. 237.0364

B u ye r s a n d s e l l e r s o f : D i a m o n d s o f a l l s i ze s

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A n t i q u e a n d m o d e r n j e we l r y

| Vintage

and modern watches

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Entire estates

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C o n fi d e n t i a l & I m m e d i a t e Pay m e n t

CONTENTS

8

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

96

THE 2017 JCA WINNERS

A showcase of JCK’s Jewelers’ Choice Award–winning jewels in 53 categories and price points, from bridal and bracelets to silver and statement pieces.

FEATURES 72

CIRCLES OF LIGHT We’ve taken a shine to highpolish silver styles—accented with agate, dotted with gemstones, trimmed in gold, and simply all-sterling, all the time.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS

80

LUSTER FOR LIFE Marisa Lomonaco, Moratorium, Saint Ann, Alison Antelman, and D.Jo Jewelry: You may not have heard of these silver brands yet, but trust us—you will soon.

BY BRITTANY SIMINITZ

86

80

Planning your trip to JCK Las Vegas? Here are the most mouthwatering restaurants and rockin’ concerts in Sin City— guaranteed to keep you going long after business hours.

90

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

90

AGENTS OF CHANGE Meet Instagram’s new brand of power sellers, style influencers who are changing the face of modern marketing.

BY EMILI VESILIND

92

72 MARCH / APRIL 2017

CUSTOM RELATIONS No jewelry request is too big, too small, or too outrageous for these visionary designers and retailers.

BY KATHY HENDERSON

MODEL AND PHONE: PHOTOGRAPHS BY PATRIC SHAW; RING: PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN LEWIS; RING IN STERLING SILVER, $375, BASTIAN INVERUN, 401-667-7279, BASTIAN-INVERUN.COM

STRIP ADVISER

CONTENTS

10

JCKONLINE.COM

119 DEPARTMENTS 14

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

30 34 39 48 50

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS Holiday sales results: a mixed report GEM PRICING REPORT

127

THE CALENDAR Industry shows, March 23–April 30, 2017

57

61

62 65 66 68

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SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee.com RETAIL THERAPY What’s your best advice for maintaining a successful e-commerce site?

STORE WE ADORE Sarah Swell in Sausalito, Calif.

THE LOOK RED CARPET JCK ASKS...

Robert Procop

119 120 122 125

THE VAULT GOLD WATCHES

SHOW BIZ The AGS Conclave goes Hollywood! Plus: 5 fab finds from January’s JIS show.

127 TOOL TIME The latest on augmented reality in retail. Plus: the Mextures app and more.

140 THE WAY WE WORE JFK dons an ultrathin, ultra-elegant Omega watch.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

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66

PORTRAITS (FROM TOP): PHOTOGRAPH BY KEN GUTMAKER; PHOTOGRAPH BY ETHAN HILL; APP: © TIFFANY & CO.

16 22 24

When Two Become One

www.martinflyer.com sales@martinflyer.com (800) 223-0330

Cover Look

12

A STAr IS BorN

The Jewelers’ Choice Awards grand-prize winner (pictured right)—and our first glam redesigned cover—inspired a golden moment, from the accent pieces to the wardrobe.

JCKONLINE.COM

Kate collection starburst ring with 0.58 ct. t.w. pavé-set diamond rays in 14k yellow gold; $1,490; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

Andromeda earrings with spinel and black agate in sterling silver; $695; Simon Alcantara; 212-219-1749; simonalcantara.com

SPoTLIGHT oN SILver Seven-diamond bezel hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold; $3,435; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529, ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com

So bright…so beautiful… ah, precious! We’ve gone loopy over these high-polish sterling collars, hoops, chains, cuffs, and, of course, rings.

Behind the scenes with model Alexandra Agoston

MARCH / APRIL 2017

Aquarius linked ring in sterling silver; $1,000; Spinelli Kilcollin; 213-341-8244; spinellikilcollin.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRIC SHAW Hair: FRED VAN DE BUNT/ART DEPARTMENT; Makeup: REGINA HARRIS Stylist: VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS; Manicurist: MAYUMI ABUKU/RONA REPRESENTS Model: ALEXANDRA AGOSTON/IMG Yellow dress: JAY GODFREY/jaygodfrey.com; black crop top: VIKA GAZINSKAYA/theoutnet.com

BGK Graphics

#MyKindofJewelry 1-800-775-2744 • www.skashi.com • info@skashi.com

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MARCH / APRIL 2017

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 2

CELEBRITIES

Cool Blue platinum earrings with 18.5 cts. t.w. blue-green tourmaline, 2.88 cts. t.w. aquamarines, and 0.76 ct. t.w. diamonds; $14,400; Alishan; 714-730-1140; alishanonline.com

1

SHOWS

Heading into the Tucson gem shows in early February, all signs suggested that pent-up demand from a slow 2016 selling season would translate into strong sales. But in the end, it was the supply side that made the biggest impression.

Emeralds from a brand-new deposit in Ethiopia intrigued the gem community, rubies from Mozambique flooded showcases, and a slew of fresh-to-market exhibitors at the JCK Tucson show made clear that tourmaline, emerald, lapis lazuli, and Greenery-hued gems such as peridot and chrysoprase will be designer favorites this year. How’s that for local color?

JCKONLINE.COM

MOORE: BOB WILLOUGHBY/MPTVIMAGES.COM

Mary Tyler Moore, who died Jan. 25 at age 80, played one of TV’s most celebrated characters—the single and successful Mary Richards on The Mary Tyler Moore Show.

Offscreen, the actress was a lover of bold jewelry: waistlength necklaces, shouldergrazing earrings—even pasta jewelry (as seen in this 1971 image). But Moore’s candor and can-do attitude are sure to be what fans will miss most. “You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you,” she once said. Her wisdom sprang from her extraordinary life—which, by all accounts, she lived to the fullest.

15

Diamonds get new life at Blue Nile with the e-tailer’s buyback biz.

3

MANUFACTURERS Richline may not be out to buy the entire industry, but sometimes it sure seems that way. In January, the Warren Buffett–owned middle-market giant, which recently purchased Gemvara and Silpada, scooped up The Aaron Group, the prominent manufacturer formerly known as Samuel Aaron.

Richline CEO Dennis Ulrich says the purchase will keep his company a leader in the realms of bridal, fashion, and gemstone jewelry.

4

DIAMONDS Blue Nile is entering the diamond buyback business—sort of. Thanks to a new venture that debuted in January, customers will have an opportunity to sell unwanted stones to the site, but the service will be run by New York City–based company Mondiamo. Blue Nile says its pricing info makes the service more transparent, though sellers will receive about 30 percent less than the e-tailer’s retail price, and Mondiamo will take a 15 percent cut on top of that.

ROSS: MARIO ANZUONI/REUTERS/SPLASH; DIAMOND RINGS: BRIAN 1974/GETTY

14k rose gold pendant with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $699; Samuel Aaron International; info@richlinegroup. com; the-aarongroup.com

5

AWARDS You’ve got to hand it to this year’s Golden Globes attendees: Rings and bangles ruled the red carpet, from Ruth Negga’s Fred Leighton–Gemfields sculpted gold and ruby cuff and Blake Lively’s matching Colombian emerald and diamond cuffs (by Lorraine Schwartz, naturally) to cocktail-style gobstoppers like Octavia Spencer’s 40 ct. emerald ring (again by Schwartz). But the night’s most fabulous finger bling belonged to Black-ish star Tracee Ellis Ross, who basically dipped her hands in diamonds from designers including L’Dezen by Payal Shah, Hueb, Yeprem, and Kavant & Sharart. Too much? As if there’s such a thing!

MARCH / APRIL 2017

from the editor

16

J

These GuitaM lapis and turquoise drops caught my eye at JCK Tucson. For more on the show, see page 14.

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com MARCH / APRIL 2017

NOT THAT YOU’D know it flipping through the pages of this fine-looking issue.

It’s the first one to be produced by Headline Studio, a division of Advance Publications hired by Reed Exhibitions last fall to breathe new life into our publication, both in print and online. After a months-long redesign process, in which we tapped into the same well of talent used by our sister division Condé Nast, I’m thrilled to finally be sharing it with you.

We owe our sleek new look—which includes a fresh logo, updated typography, and a refined approach to photography—to our talented design team, led by creative director Peter Yates and photography director Freyda Tavin, two of the best-connected professionals in the media business. But don’t go thinking it’s strictly a vanity project. Along with our new aesthetic, you’ll see, in this and subsequent issues, a greater focus on product, more emphasis on topics at the cutting edge of retail innovation, and expanded coverage of the JCK family of events, beginning with the all-important JCK Las Vegas show.

If you’re seeking new products, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more beloved assortment of jewels than those in this issue’s cover story (page 96) featuring the winners of the

2017 Jewelers’ Choice Awards. Congratulations to all, with extra kudos to Los Angeles’ Shy Creation, whose grand prize–winning yellow gold ring momentarily stole the spotlight from our mesmerizing cover model.

The other can’t-miss element of this issue is, of course, the Spotlight, which begins on page 71 and is dedicated to all things silver.

Working with our longtime contributor and newly anointed jewelry director Randi Molofsky and the esteemed still-life photographer Stephen Lewis, we’ve homed in on some specific trends—chain links, texture, sculptural silhouettes—to remind you why silver merits the label precious.

We, on the other hand, are anything but. Our small but smart-as-hell editorial team—consisting of managing editor Melissa Rose Bernardo, news director Rob Bates, retail and technology editor Emili Vesilind, contributing editor Brittany Siminitz, and blogger Amy Elliott—is devoted to producing a magazine you’d be proud to share with your colleagues, your children, and maybe even your customers…basically, anyone who believes in the enduring appeal of jewelry and the possibilities of reinvention. Please let us know how we’re doing!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

CK turns 148 this year.

Distinguished jew

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fine jew

the finest jew ound the w ld in N

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and most accomplished

’s top

vel destinations.

NEW OPENING DAY

FRIDAY, JUNE 2 - THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017* | DELANO, FOUR SEASONS, MANDALAY BAY | LAS VEGAS, NV *By invitation only June 2 – June 4

NEW OPENING DAY

SUNDAY, JUNE 4 - WEDNESDAY, JUNE 7, 2017* | MANDALAY BAY | LAS VEGAS, NV *By invitation only June 4

NEW OPENING DAY

SUNDAY, JUNE 4 - TUESDAY JUNE 6, 2017* | MANDALAY BAY SUITES | LAS VEGAS, NV *By appoinment

NEW LOCATION

SUNDAY, JULY 23 - TUESDAY, JULY 25, 2017* | INTERCONTINENTAL BARCLAY | NEW YORK, NY *Open to all qualified retailers

F I N D O U T M O R E , J C KO N L I N E .C O M

JCK LAS VEGAS M A N D A L AY B AY R E S O RT & C A S I N O

NEW OPENING DAY FOR 2017!

MONDAY, JUNE 5 THURSDAY, JUNE 8, 2017

REGISTER TODAY! F O R I N F O R M AT I O N A N D TO R E G I ST E R , V I S I T : J CKO N L I N E.C O M/LASV EGAS THE PREMIER D EST I NAT I O N TO D I S COV E R W HAT’S N EW A ND

@JCKEVENTS

W HAT’S N EX T I N T H E F I N E J EW E L RY MA RK ET

#J C K LASV E G AS

Join Us JCK Talks 2017

NEW OPENING DAY Sunday, June 4 - T

y, June 8

J C K Ta l k s a r m s r e t a i l e r s w i t h t h e t o o l s , i n s i g h t s a n d i n f o r m a t i o n n e c e s s a r y t o s u c c e e d i n t h e c u r r e n t retail climate. Refreshed content for 2017 includes an ac tion-packed day of influential speakers, an

af ternoon with industr y associations, and the Showcase Stage—al l designed to provide you with crucial t a k e a w a y s t h a t d e l i v e r “ S o l u t i o n s f o r y o u r S t o r e .”

JCK Talks Sunday, June 4 (one day eceding JCK Las Vegas) T R AD EW I N D S R O O M S , P O O L L EV E L

Speakers from both in- and outside of the jewelry industry will inspire buyers to think differently about marketing strategies, jewelry merchandising and sales tactics.

with the Associations Monday, June 5 T R AD EW I N D S R O O M S , P O O L L EV E L

Created to put a spotlight on the happenings within our industry, Afternoon with the Associations will include presentations from: WJA, JVC, NCDIA, AGTA and more.

The Showcase Stage Monday, June 5 T y, June 8 JCK SHOW FLOOR, BAYSIDE LEVEL 1

Conveniently located on the show floor, The Showcase Stage, will feature several interactive panels, seminars and trend downloads presented by industry and consumer experts.

S TAY U P - T O - D AT E O N T H E F U L L J C K TA L K S S C H E D U L E B Y V I S I T I N G J C K O N L I N E . C O M / L A S V E G A S / E V E N T S A N D B E S U R E T O D O W N LO A D T H E O F F I C I A L J C K M O B I L E A P P T O H E L P Y O U P L A N Y O U R A G E N D A AT T H E S H O W.

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MARCH / APRIL 2017

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

staff picks

1

18k black gold earrings with turquoise and diamonds; $6,200; Lucifer Vir Honestus; 39-022900-4270; lucifervir-honestus.com

5

Ring with bezel-set peridot and violet enamel in 18k yellow gold; $2,940; Sarah Hendler; 646-745-6831; sarahhendler.com

What JCK magazine’s VICTORIA GOMELSKY is loving this month

Cuff with 13.69 cts. t.w. peridot and 0.89 ct. t.w. diamonds in 24k gold and silver with proprietary green patina; $17,600; Victor Velyan; 213-955-5950; victorvelyan.com

Lady and the Dragonfly broochpendant in 18k gold with enamel, 1.04 cts. t.w. emeralds, 5.3 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 0.1 ct. t.w. rubies; $50,000; Lord Jewelry; 213-4890039; lordjewelry.us

4

Lady Compliquée Peacock Emerald timepiece in 18k rose gold with emeralds and diamonds; $89,000; Fabergé; sales@ faberge.com; faberge.com

“I love the fresh, zingy look of Greenery, Pantone’s 2017 color of the year.”

—Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS

GRASS ROUTES 2

3

606 S. OLIVE ST. STE 2018, LOS ANGELES CA 90014 213.622.9866 | 800.742.8864 RAHAMINOV.COM

FROM THE PUBLISHER

24

W

The scenic JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa, home to the JCK Tucson show

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com MARCH / APRIL 2017

WE TRULY HOPE you love the updated look and feel of JCK as much as we do!

As I mentioned last month, we began an internal conversation about the future of the magazine and website in June. Our goals were twofold: rethink our business to make more sense in today’s media landscape and, simultaneously, reassess our products to keep our best-in-class position in the marketplace.

No easy task, as I’m sure you can imagine.

Our new publishing partner, Headline Studio, worked with us to accomplish both these goals. The issue in your hands is the product of this new partnership.

It’s an honor to have been a part of these changes to one of the oldest magazines in the country (1869!) and an institution in our industry. And I’m honored to work for a parent company willing to invest in its product. It’s a great compliment to the jewelry business that Reed Exhibitions recognizes the importance and appropriateness of creating a magazine worthy of one of the world’s

most design- and beauty-focused trades!

Big congratulations to Peter Yates, creative director of the new JCK. His years of experience at Condé Nast and Hearst show through in this simple, elegant, and dynamic new design. Congrats also to editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and her editorial team, who made the change—of partners, systems, photographers, and more—look as easy as simply producing another issue. (They do get the fun new perk of working on the 31st floor of New York City’s One World Trade Center in the Condé Nast headquarters!)

Finally, a quick travel update: It was such a pleasure traveling to Italy to attend the VicenzaOro show. The fair was as stunning as ever, and it was great to see the world’s manufacturers so intent on marketing to the United States. And of course, who wouldn’t enjoy a week in the Arizona desert to attend JCK Tucson, AGTA GemFair, the tent shows, and Centurion? Next up is Baselworld, and I hope to see you in Switzerland!

JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; STARR PASS: COURTESY MARRIOTT

elcome to the new JCK!

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THORSTEN

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

AMERICA’S LARGEST COLLECTION OF CONTEMPORY METAL RINGS

R E TA I L E R S C A N S I G N-U P AT

THORSTEN RINGS.COM

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

2017 WINNERS SKU-G1285-YGLL | SKU#W1281-BTGI

EDITORIAL News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, AUBRY D’ARMINIO, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors PATRIC SHAW, ETHAN HILL, KEN GUNMAKER, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

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INNER GOLD PLATING & BLACK DIAMONDS CO N T E M P O R A R Y M E TA L S U N D E R $ 10 0 0 M I X E D M E TA L J E WE L R Y U N D E R $ 10 0 0 888-209-4757| SUPPORT@THORSTENRINGS.COM

CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 646-783-3771 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 310-475-3249 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Account Manager PATRICIA NORNIELLA Premedia Account Manager ANNETTE FARRELL Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS One World Trade Center, Floor 31 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 advancelocal.net headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / JCK, Reed Exhibitions YANCY WEINRICH 646-783-3761 (NY), 203-840-5481 (CT) yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 Warsaw, Poland 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek@jckonline.com INDIA KAUSHAL SHAH 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M.Joshi Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Maharashtra, India 91-22-2305-9305 cell 91-98-2171-5431 kaushal@kaushals.com

ISRAEL ITZCHAK ARIKHA P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan 52131, Israel 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 galisaac@zahav.net.il THAILAND LAKKANA KONGCHUEN Reed Tradex Co. 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand 66-2-686-7299, fax 66-2-686-7288 cell 66-8-9452-4447 lakkana.kong@reedtradex.co.th

CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Industry Vice President KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, VicenzaOro Italian Club 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Diamond Plaza 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Sterling Plaza, Plumb Club, Currents, First Look (companies A–M), The Gallery (Bayside), AGTA 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Lifestyle, The Bridge (companies P–Z), JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP First Look (companies N–Z), JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies and Pavilions, Essentials, Tech, Retail Experience, JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive VICKY PANG The Bridge (companies A–O) 203-840-5960 vpang@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies A–O) 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies P–Z), Swiss Watch, LUXURY Watch 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Winnie Marvel After 126 years, Magnon Jewelers of Tampa, Florida, was closing its doors. The business, which had been family-owned for more than 85 years, hadn’t been prospering over the past 8 to 10 years, and owner Winnie Marvel faced a tough choice.

As she told us, “We were not growing and we knew that we had to make some decisions. We could either reinvent ourselves in a much smaller and different way, or we could choose to close and go out with our customers remembering us the way we always were, as the preeminent jewelry business in our area. It was one of the hardest decisions to make, but once we made it we felt a big relief.”

Marvel was familiar with Wilkerson. She knew Bobby Wilkerson personally from a focus group she had been involved in and she had visited the Wilkerson operation in Arkansas and was very impressed. “I knew Wilkerson had a plan, a formula, and I felt that they did business with integrity,” she explained.

“I’m familiar with other companies that do sales of this type, but nobody does it like Wilkerson.”

Winnie Marvel Magnon Jewelers Tampa, FL

Did Wilkerson meet her expectations? “We had done an earlier sale with them, so I just let go and let it happen and we hit our marks,” Marvel added. “It was organized and well done. Everything was spot on.”

While the sale was handled differently than typical store sales, Marvel understood the need for something designed specifically for a store closing.

“You run this kind of sale to make money and if you want to raise money, Wilkerson knows how,” she concluded. “I’m familiar with other companies that do sales of this type, but nobody does it like Wilkerson.”

Wilkerson is a professional jewelry consultant firm, with industry experts who come along to help with a transition — whether retiring, going out of business, or moving.

With more than 50 employees dedicated to a store’s success, Wilkerson is an expert at running sales and maximizing profit.

Contact us today for a free consultation!

Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999.

Or visit us at wilkersons.com.

the industry authority

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

“My votes for jewelry winners are Blake Lively, Emma Stone, and definitely Tracee Ellis Ross.

So much fun.”

— JCKonline reader Talisman Collection on “Golden Globes Jewelry 2017”

BRIDE & JOY SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

Longtime LUXURY exhibitor Sylvie Levine gave JCK Insider a glimpse into a sparkling day in the life of the Sylvie Collection. A few facts we learned about the bridal designer: French is her native language; she was brought up in “the diamond capital of the world, Antwerp”; and she’s totally into The Crown. (Us too!) For the whole interview, visit jckinsider.com/fullcircle.

JCK contributing editor Brittany Siminitz is predicting a rise in the popularity of peridot in 2017. Among the designers who are going yellow-green: Simon G., Andreoli, Sasha Primak, Wendy Brandes, Graziela Gems (pictured, top), and Lauren K (pictured, bottom). For more trend news, subscribe to the JCK Insider newsletter. And for five gorgeous Greenery jewels, see editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky’s Staff Picks on page 22.

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the industry authority

CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Journalist Marion Fasel (@marionfasel ), founder of the online jewelry mag The Adventurine, fills her feed with awards coverage (Bey’s 400 ct. Grammy necklace!), historic photos (hello, Liz Taylor), big-screen bling sightings (e.g., pearls in Jackie), and gorgeous product pics galore.

Book your appointment before the show starts and be entered to win a KORITE Ammolite watch.

Beating the “rainy Monday” blues with a David Yurman turquoise statement ring

On a rainbow high thanks to Sharon Khazzam’s gemstonefilled sunburst-style pendant

A rare Paul Flato 1940s brooch at Christie’s seems made for Marion, doesn’t it?

Enjoying a #stacksarethenewblack moment with Spinelli Kilcollin’s signature linked rings

Armed with a Suzanne Belperron aquamarine, ruby, and gold Double Coronet cuff, circa 1950

Stopping to smell the orchids: Hanut Singh’s ruby, tsavorite, and diamond Orchidelirious earrings

Call 1-800-917-2228

WANT MORE JCK? JCK NEWS DAILY BRINGS THE TOP STORIES TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONDAY–SATURDAY. GO TO jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

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JCKONLINE.COM

SOCIaL DIary

GEM AWARDS

1

SPARKLE PLACE

On Jan. 13, Kay Jewelers and Patek Philippe were among the winners toasted and roasted by host Stephen Webster and 500 of the trade’s best and brightest Assia Webster— whom the host lovingly dubbed his “long-suffering” wife—with Bon Jovi keyboardist David Bryan

HSN’s Carol Brodie, Town & Country editor-in-chief Stellene Volandes, and JCK jewelry director Randi Molofsky of For Future Reference

Hearst Digital Media watch editor Stephen Watson, a nominee for media excellence, with Cuba Gooding Jr.

3 4

5

Cipriani 42nd Street (located in the former Bowery Savings Bank) again served as the glamorous setting for the Gem Awards.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

2

This year’s Gem Award winner for lifetime achievement: Jim Rosenheim of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C.

Irene Neuwirth, decked out in, naturally, jewels of her own design

Gem Award winner Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s jewelry creative director, with Bulgari North America president Daniel Paltridge

7

6 ZACH HILTY/BFA.COM

34

JCKONLINE.COM

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Before the storied hotel’s multiyear renovation, on Jan. 14, the 24 Karat Club of the City of New york made the most of its longtime gala locale

Singer/actress/ diamond lover Kristin Chenoweth

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The JCK Events– Reed Exhibitions team: Kate Nellis, Nancy Walsh, Shelly Hill, Ana Crosby, and Katie Dominesey

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Diamex owner Ronnie VanderLinden and his wife, Lynn

5

Designer Jose Hess and his wife, Magdalena

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HECHLER PHOTOGRAPHERS

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the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2017

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

News Gems Vedic collection rings in matte 18k gold with tsavorite, brilliant-cut diamond, tanzanite, square rose-cut diamond, and pear rose-cut diamond; $700–$1,100 each; JS Noor; 562-2168160; jsnoor.com

HAPPY HOLIDAY?

CLEAVER: DE BEERS GROUP

The 2016 holiday season was not as happy as many retailers had hoped, with sales results coming in all over the map

BY ROB BATES

O

De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver

VER ALL JEWELRY SALES during the season rose 0.7 percent, with sales at independents rising 1.4 percent, according to figures from MasterCard SpendingPulse, as cited in a speech by De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver at a Forevermark event in January. Perhaps the biggest winner, however, was online: E-commerce jewelry sales rose by double digits, according to SpendingPulse.

Diamond basics such as studs and solitaires, designer lines, and charms were said to be the season’s biggest sellers.

Signet Jewelers, America’s largest jeweler, had a particularly rough time of it—noteworthy for a company that had posted steadily rising comps for the past few holidays. While the company had already made clear that 2016 Christmas sales would likely fall, the extent of the decline caused jaws to drop.

Overall comps fell 4.6 percent, with steep falls at Kay (down 4.6 percent), Jared

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

The scoop Ex–Tiffany design director Francesca Amfitheatrof: The retailer’s NYC sales fell 14 percent.

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for January and February. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline.com/ newsletters/subscribe.

1 (down 4.7 percent), Zales (down 3.7 percent), Gordon’s (down 11.7 percent), and its regional brands (down 16.9 percent). The only nameplate to register an increase: Piercing Pagoda, where same-store sales rose 4.2 percent.

Signet CEO Mark Light blamed the “below expectations” performance on declining mall traffic, tough competition, and technical problems with the company’s website.

Tiffany & Co. also reported downbeat results, with sales in North America falling 3 percent (the company didn’t break out results for the United States specifically). The retailer suffered a 14 percent tumble at its New York City flagship, due to its proximity to Trump Tower and post– presidential election traffic disruptions.

Overall, the best-performing chain appears to have been Birks Group, which reported that comps at its 18 American stores jumped 16 percent this holiday season. The Montreal-based company credited the strong results to an emphasis on proprietary products and customer service.

On the other hand, Australia’s Michael Hill Jeweller registered an 8.8 percent decline at its 10 U.S. stores.

The company recently changed the leadership of its U.S. division.

Both Macy’s and J.C. Penney reported “strong” sales for jewelry over the holidays, though Macy’s said watch sales were weak.

2 3 4 5

Two Killed in Jewelry Store Robberies Over Weekend: The new year got off to a dismal start, at least as far as jewelry crime is concerned.

Roll Call of 2016’s Departing Jewelers: JCK news director Rob Bates salutes some of the businesses that closed up shop last year.

White House Removes Melania Trump Jewelry Plug From Sites: A mention of the first lady’s QVC line curiously vanished from her official online bio.

Golden Globes Jewelry 2017: Cuffs and Chokers Galore: Senior editor Emili Vesilind checks out the jewelry at the annual awards show.

Blue Nile Debuts Diamond Buyback Service: A report on Blue Nile’s new diamond buyback service, run in conjunction with Mondiamo.

WEBSTER: ZACH HILTY/BFA.COM

“I’ve been assured that the ballots are top secret. No one knows the winner besides God, Laurence Graff, probably, and the Russian hacking team.”

—Stephen Webster, emcee of the 15th annual Gem Awards

JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Above: James Speltz; right: one of Luxury Brand Holdings’ Sidney Thomas stores

3 Questions for...

JAMES SPELTZ

IN JANUARY, James Speltz, the former CEO of gifts and gadgets company Brookstone, was named president of Luxury Brand Holdings, parent company of Ross-Simons and the Sidney Thomas jewelry chain. Here, he talks with JCK about what he hopes to accomplish. —RB What do you see as your main goals?

We have a true multichannel operation that has upside opportunities for all the brands.

I’m looking to aggressively grow the directto-consumer part of the business for Sidney Thomas. We will be venturing onto Amazon.

You have nine Sidney Thomas stores and one Ross-Simons showroom. Do you envision brick-and-mortar expansion?

It’s premature to say. The potential is enormous. We had a very strong 2016.

You are a newcomer to the industry. What opportunities do you see?

The consolidation that is happening in terms of independent and multigenerational jewelers is an opportunity that we have to seize upon.

The regional players don’t have significant e-commerce capabilities. Some of the big players that have displaced a lot of those jewelers have proven excellence in e-commerce, but they lack the brick-and-mortar presence to bridge the two worlds. Today, consumers want to be serviced where they want and when they want. Being multichannel and direct-toconsumer is a core competency of ours.

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Amazon also said it sold 10,000 cts. of diamonds.

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Q&A

42

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INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

44

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Shultz has 30 years’ experience in the jewelry industry. Shopper, who started as a bench jeweler, served for 12 years as director of sales for Gregg Ruth.

JENNIFER PEARSON

Jewelry-buying firm Circa has tapped Jennifer Pearson, a former vice president of marketing for both Assael Inc. and Effy Jewelry, as its new vice president of marketing.

Frederic Cumenal, Tiffany & Co.’s CEO since 2015, has resigned. He will be replaced on an interim basis by his predecessor, current chairman Michael J. Kowalski. Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof has also stepped down. Designer Reed Krakoff, previously president and executive creative director of Coach, will take on the new role of chief artistic officer.

Frederick Goldman has hired Mike Giannattasio, former president and CEO of Montblanc North America,

Jean-Claude Biver is taking over as interim CEO of watch brand Zenith, replacing Aldo Magada. Biver heads the watch division of LVMH, which owns Zenith.

Dominion Diamond Corp. CEO Brendan Bell is stepping down after

Chabi Nouri was appointed new CEO of Richemont-owned watch brand Piaget, replacing longtime brand veteran Philippe LéopoldMetzger. She has been Piaget’s international managing director of sales and marketing since 2016.

a little over two years in the job for personal reasons. The company is searching for a successor.

Steve Larkin, chief revenue officer of Charles & Colvard since 2013, has left the moissanite manufacturer, the company said in a Securities and Exchange Commission filing.

Samuels Jewelers chief financial officer Robert Herman and senior vice president of merchandising David Pillow have left the company. Pillow is joining an Austin, Texas–based online jeweler.

In May, Sarine Technologies CEO Uzi Levami will, after eight years, step down for personal reasons. He will continue as executive director of Sarine. He will be replaced by David Block, the instrument maker’s deputy CEO and chief operating officer.

Two new salesmen have joined the Los Angeles–based Uneek Jewelry: Rick Shultz and Cortland Shopper.

as its new senior vice president of sales. Giannattasio will lead sales for the Goldman luxury group, which encompasses the Scott Kay and Karl Lagerfeld brands.

Sam’s Club CEO Rosalind Brewer

has resigned and will be replaced by John Furner. Furner was formerly the company’s executive vice president and chief merchandising officer.

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CHABI NOURI Signet Jewelers has appointed Sebastian Hobbs, managing director

of the U.K. division, to the new position of president and chief customer officer. George Murray, current chief

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merchandising and marketing officer, is now chief retail insights and strategy officer, another new post. Veterans Ed Hrabak, chief operating officer, and Tryna Kochanek, executive VP of North American store operations, are both retiring. Bryan Morgan, executive VP for supply chain management and repair, will succeed Hrabak.

New England (Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and New Hampshire) and Northern California.

REMEMBERED

Clyde Duneier, a prominent designer Hearts On Fire Isabelle teardrop milgrain diamond engagement ring; starting at $3,600

Guillaume Cerutti has been appointed CEO of Christie’s. He replaces Patricia Barbizet, who has held the post since 2014. Barbizet will serve as board vice chairman.

Omaha, Neb.–based The Edge Retail Academy has hired Kevin Sweeney as business adviser. Sweeney previously worked at Hearts On Fire and Shreve, Crump & Low. The company also promoted Sherry Smith to director of business development and Becka Johnson Kibby to director of operations.

Manuel Emch, CEO of Geneva-based watchmaker RJ-Romain Jerome since

January 2010, is stepping down to join the company’s board of directors.

Wedding Ring Shop in Honolulu; the

Increased Sell-Through Retailer of the Year award went to Koser Jewelers in Mount Joy, Pa.; and the Brand Advocate Retailer of the Year is MG Joyeros in Panama City.

FINANCIAL

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HONORED

Hearts On Fire named three-store chain James & Sons, which has locations in Indiana and Illinois, its 2016 Global Retailer of the Year. The Rookie of the Year award went to The Diamond Galleria in Evansville, Ind.; the Bridal Retailer of the Year is The

and manufacturer who helped found the organization that later became Jewelers for Children, died Dec. 18.

He was 88.

On Dec. 23, J. & S.S. DeYoung salesman Aster J. Dye died in Brockton, Mass. He was 73.

Walter Lange, who in his 60s rebuilt the then–long-shuttered watch brand A. Lange & Söhne, died Jan. 17 in Germany. He was 92.

Fashion jewelry brand Kendra Scott Design has received a minority investment from Berkshire Partners, a Boston-based investment firm.

COMPANIES

Charm giant Pandora has acquired 18 franchise stores that have been run by Danvers, Mass.–based Laws Management. The stores are located in

WALTER LANGE

NEWS GEMS

48

GEM PRICING

TUCSON GEM SHOW TRAFFIC: DOWN BUT NOT OUT THE 2017 TUCSON gem shows saw lighter-thanexpected traffic. Buyers, however, were active. Top sellers included mint-green grossular garnet, spessartine garnet, fancy sapphire, and paraiba tourmaline. Dealers saw a rise in demand for spinel, but finer stones are difficult to find.

There was strong demand for gems mined in the USA. Prices were generally stable relative to last year with some decreases observed in commercial and mid-range grades.

Consumption followed the expected pattern: Demand was solid for high-end gems, where availability remains quite tight; fairly soft for the mid-range; and good for the lowerprice-point commercial grades. Gems of green, orange, and blue hues were particularly popular.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$7,735

$6,970

$6,240

$5,280

H

$6,480

$6,150

$5,820

$5,000

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,600

$5,530

$5,270

$4,720

J

$5,120

$4,720

$4,560

$4,320

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

G

$14,300

$12,400

$10,600

$8,700

H

$12,400

$10,900

$9,400

$8,580

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$10,000

$8,820

$8,520

$7,280

J

$8,000

$7,390

$7,000

$6,390

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms Commercial, Good, Fine, and Extra-Fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

50

MARCH / APRIL 2017

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR U.S.

INTERNATIONAL

• MARCH

22–23

• MARCH

• APRIL

6–9

23–26

Charlotte, N.C.

23–30

4–8

Ekaterinburg, Russia

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW americanbead shows.com

BEAD FEST Santa Fe, N.M.

22–25

beadfest.com

24–26

IRELAND SHOW SECAUCUS

Salt Lake City

irelandshow secaucus.com

GEM FAIRE gemfaire.com

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW San Mateo, Calif.

Secaucus, N.J.

March Birthstone

28–30

GEM FAIRE

AQUAMARINE

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

intergem.com

STULLER’S BENCH JEWELER WORKSHOP

JACKSONVILLE SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

Lafayette, La. stuller.com/workshop

25–26

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Louisville, Ky. americanbead shows.com

31–APRIL 2 GEM FAIRE

Puyallup, Wash. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Hartford, Conn. intergem.com

1–2

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Memphis, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

3–4

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD SHOW Las Vegas iwjg.com

5–9

Hillsboro, Ore. gemfaire.com

8–9

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

AMERICAN CRAFT SHOW St. Paul, Minn. craftcouncil.org

jfashow.com

21–22

glwshows.com

JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE (JIS) Fort Lauderdale, Fla. jisshow.com

Eugene, Ore.

6–9

Rosemont, Ill.

8–10

Los Angeles

Indianapolis

TRANSWORLD’S JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW

americanbead shows.com

14–16

americangemsociety. org/conclave2017

20–23

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

Nashville, Tenn.

AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY CONCLAVE

TREASURES OF THE EARTH GEM & JEWELRY SHOW toteshows.com

GEM FAIRE

GEM FAIRE gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston intergem.com

baselworld.com

26–29 QUEBEC GIFT FAIR Montreal cangift.org

MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW Sharjah, United Arab Emirates mideast jewellery.com

5–7

TOKYO FASHION JEWELLERY EXPO

eng.rjexpert.ru

19–22

CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Shenzhen, China jewellery netasia.com

Tokyo ac-expo.jp

Dallas

intergem.com

7–9

Basel, Switzerland

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

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• APRIL

BASELWORLD

JUNWEX EKATERINBURG

West Springfield, Mass.

Jacksonville, Fla. aksshow.com

MID-SOUTH JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES FAIR Memphis, Tenn. helenbrett.com

29–30

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Tampa, Fla.

21–23

americanbead shows.com

GEM FAIRE San Diego gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

April Birthstone

DIAMOND Dreamcatcher collection Poem ring with black diamond in 18k white and yellow gold; $14,400; Audrius Krulis; info@audriuskrulis.com; audriuskrulis.com

Austin, Texas intergem.com

NEW ORLEANS SPRING BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Kenner, La.

DON’T FORGET… LUXURY JUNE 2–8 JCK LAS VEGAS JUNE 5–8

aksshow.com

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a n d L U X U R Y ’ s c u s t o m e r s . L U X U R Y w i l l o p e n o n F r i d a y, J u n e 2 , t o i n v i t e d r e t a i l e r s , a n d t h e n t o a l l r e t a i l e r s o n M o n d a y, J u n e 5 , w h e n J C K L a s Ve g a s a l s o o p e n s . T h e s h o w s

r u n t h r o u g h T h u r s d a y, J u n e 8 a t t h e M a n d a l a y B a y C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r.

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2 Book Y

Hotel T ough JCK to Take Advantage of Low Weekday Rates W i t h J C K t a k i n g p l a c e d u r i n g t h e w e e k ( M o n d a y, J u n e 5 – T h u r s d a y, J u n e 8 ) , h o t e l r a t e s a re e v e n l o w e r. C h o o s e f ro m o u r o u t s t a n d i n g l i n e u p o f La s Ve g a s p ro p e r t i e s , a l l w i t h i n a m i l e o r t w o o f t h e s h o w. B o o k e a r l y fo r t h e b e s t s e l e c t i o n . S t a y a q u i c k w a l k o r r i d e a w a y f ro m t h e M a n d a l a y B a y C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r a t t h e b e a u t i f u l l y re m o d e l e d Tro p i c a n a La s Ve g a s , fe a t u r i n g s o m e o f t h e l o w e s t p r i c e s o n t h e s t r i p ! I n p a r t n e r s h i p w i t h J I S E x c h a n g e , J C K w i l l b e p ro v i d i n g e x p re s s s h u t t l e s e r v i c e t o a n d f ro m t h e Tro p i c a n a t o t h e M a n d a l a y B a y C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r. O u r 1 1 o t h e r J C K h o t e l p ro p e r t i e s o f fe r a c o l l e c t i o n o f re s o r t - c a s i n o s w i t h s p e c i a l l y n e g o t i a t e d p r i c e s a n d s h u t t l e s e r v i c e s t o a n d f ro m t h e s e h o t e l s t o t h e s h o w.

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3 F N

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the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Benjamin Clymer Hodinkee hodinkee.com Twitter/Instagram: @hodinkee

HOW THE WRIST WAS WON Millennial and Gen-X watch men flock to Hodinkee thanks to founder Benjamin Clymer’s unique mix of high-quality original content and high-end e-commerce

BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ETHAN HILL

A

SK ANY MALE watch collector under the age of 45 what industry websites he reads, and chances are “Hodinkee” will be the first name that pops out of his mouth. By pairing magazine-quality content with impeccably curated e-commerce, the 9-yearold website has become a hub for younger watch enthusiasts. Benjamin Clymer, who began his career in finance and went on to study journalism at Columbia University, founded Hodinkee in 2008 after a Tumblr he created to chat about the virtues of his grandfather’s Omega Speedmaster began garnering comments. “I realized there was this whole untapped market for young guys whose tastes in luxury watches were different than

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

58

collaborations coming up, too.

We hope to do a limitededition item once per quarter.

Hodinkee branding is always on the back. When we work with brands, we’ll say, “We love what you’re doing; have you thought about doing X, Y, and Z?” Everyone on my staff is a serious watch guy.

Top: Hodinkee’s dark brown leather Racing Strap (shown on a vintage Rolex Daytona “Big Eyes”); Below: the site’s sand NATO watch strap (on a 1970s Rolex GMTMaster ref. 1675)

their dads’,” he says. Hodinkee— which counts Apple’s Jony Ive, actor Ashton Kutcher, pro skateboarder Tony Hawk, and musician John Mayer among its investors—began retailing its own watch straps in 2012. By 2016, the company was shipping 15,000 straps worldwide.

What began as an online ode to Grandpa’s timepiece is now one of the watch world’s most influential—and consistently entertaining—voices.

Why did you start Hodinkee’s retail business with straps?

I had a friend in Italy making watch straps. People would ask where I got them all the time.

When we launched them, the reaction was huge—we were in GQ and other magazines, and we sold out very quickly.

Most straps are designed for new watches. Our straps are calf instead of crocodile, and they’re distressed. We focused on making them work with old watches, and that was a game changer.

Now we do high-end crocodile straps and such, but the aesthetic is still more vintage than new.

How do you source the vintage watches?

The vintage watches on the site come from private consignors.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

We have two watch experts who are out in the field and talking to collectors. Also, the No. 1 inquiry we get is from people looking to sell their watch.

Hodinkee began as an editorial site. How important is content to your business now?

The editorial is still a huge, huge focus for us, and always will be. We’ve invested in it—we have a full-time video producer and five or six people writing for it. We believe in the power of content. We’ve seen our stories sell so many things.

Product collaborations with big brands have been very successful for Hodinkee— what’s next in collaborations?

In February, we launched a special-edition $45,000 watch with Vacheron Constantin. It’s literally my dream watch. It has a steel case and a really special dial. We released 36 pieces, all reserved online by [shoppers] who submitted an application to buy. We have three or four other

You recently revamped the retail arm of the site—what did that entail?

We redesigned the site to be a real e-commerce experience, which we didn’t feel existed in the watch space. We wanted something as beautiful and successful as, say, a Mr. Porter.

It seems to be working. Retail was up 450 percent in 2016 from 2015. But we don’t want to be the biggest watch site. We’d rather have the readers who come and buy.

Our readership is young—the average age is 37, and 40 percent make above $250,000 a year. The average Hodinkee consumer is not average at all.

How is today’s luxury-watch buyer different from his predecessor?

The ultimate luxury for collectors and buyers isn’t about a trip to Switzerland.

People who read Hodinkee know what they want already.

They don’t want to be talked down to, or be forced to have champagne and caviar. They just want the product.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

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NET WORTH

BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What’s your best advice for creating and maintaining an effective e-commerce site? a: “Do your homework, find good

partners, and have realistic expectations.

Research the developers, get references and referrals, and ask lots of questions, especially about service after the site is launched. Get the best design and copywriting you can afford—it’s your showroom to thousands of potential customers who are highly digitally discerning. Investigate other sites to determine what functions you want for your site and to assess user-friendliness. Your website is a living, breathing thing. It needs constant attention, which is why I advocate for a full-time staffer to be devoted to its care and maintenance.”

JENNIFER GANDIA CO-OWNER GREENWICH ST. JEWELERS New York City greenwichjewelers.com

GREGG C. KELLY VICE PRESIDENT NORTHEASTERN FINE JEWELRY Schenectady, N.Y. nefj.com

a: “Think like a consumer!

You need to capture attention and do it quick. Shoppers have so many options these days, and if your platform is boring and unattractive, you don’t stand a chance. Pick photos that pop.

It’s also critical to make it simple for shoppers to engage with you directly about an item so they can make an informed purchase. Be sure your site mirrors who you are in your stores.”

a: “We live by the philosophy

GREG ROZINA EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT BROOKS COLLECTION Oxford, Miss. brookscollectionoxford.com

‘Keep it simple, stupid.’ There’s always room for improvement, but you want to keep everything as simple as possible. It’s not only frustrating for the consumer when things are too complex online—it’s also frustrating for the retailer. And you want to get them into the store, so we’re always looking at ways to do that online— including being very quick with all responses online and on social media.

Also, find someone whose good eye you trust to work on the website.

That’s extremely important.”

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JCKONLINE.COM

CHANCE CARPENTER GOLDSMITH APPRENTICE BIG ISLAND JEWELERS Kailua-Kona, Hawaii bigislandjewelers.com

a: “Our e-commerce site is

an extension of our retail store.

We’ve been able to create tailored content on our site that is specific to our clientele through newsletters to preferred clients that integrate our customer relationship management program. And the [high-quality] original photography of our oneof-a-kind pieces has led to higher conversion and click-through rates than ever.”

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SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

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215 CALEDONIA ST., SUITE 102 SAUSALITO, CALIF.

Designer Sarah Greenberg (right) is known for her Fishbone pieces (above), offered in gold, sterling silver, and oxidized silver.

SARAH SWELL

Fine jewelry meets museum-quality artifacts at this tiny shop in the shadow of the Golden Gate Bridge. Owner Sarah Greenberg prides herself on an inventory that rivals a museum collection for its eclectic, one-of-a-kind ethos.

Roughly half of the nature-inspired pieces are her own designs; the rest represent seven different artists from across the United States. The result: a quirky, funky environment with “casual luxury” items to match.

BY MATT VILLANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEN GUTMAKER MARCH / APRIL 2017

T

HE NAME SWELL practically washed over Sarah Greenberg when she started selling jewelry back in 2009. At that time, most of her pieces were nautical in nature, and the notion of a “swell” or waves came literally from that. Today, many of the 34-year-old Cape Cod native’s most popular pieces still have that ocean theme. One collection, the Fishbone Series, features necklaces and earrings composed of trapezoidal pieces of metal attached at the middle, like fish bones on a tail. Another collection boasts a weathered look that Greenberg and her assistants achieve by hammering the pieces on a beach rock.

“I feel there’s a certain life force and consistency to the ocean that has always been grounding and inspirational for me,” she says. “It’s nice to know others feel the same way too.”

FOLLOWING A DREAM Greenberg was in Boston studying to be a fine-art painter when a retail job at a local jewelry store turned into a gig doing simple repairs. “I couldn’t believe they were letting me do the repairs,” she

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“I like the idea of something looking pretty and being unique but being comfortable and wearable as well.”—Sarah Greenberg

Above: one-of-akind rings, which feature rose-cut salt-and-pepper, gray-green, and blue-gray diamonds

remembers. “I did a few and thought to myself, ‘This is it.’ The rest is history.” After a few months, Greenberg dropped out of art school to pursue jewelry-making. She moved to San Francisco in 2004 to attend the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, and upon graduation took a job as metalworker Sarah Graham’s first employee. After five years, Greenberg went out on her own with a small studio space in Oakland, Calif.

MUSEUM-STYLE VIBE In 2014, Greenberg moved into her current digs, a gallery/ studio space on the bottom floor of a split-level office building—six feet below street level but still very much visible from the sidewalk. It’s bright, airy, and welcoming, with walls full of antique mirrors and fine art—some of it Greenberg’s (and yes, it’s for sale)—plus shadow boxes and curio cases covered with jewelry that lend the place a museumlike vibe. Greenberg wanted to create an environment where guests “could connect with the pieces comfortably” before even thinking about price. “That connection is so important for me,” she says. “That’s what makes a piece of jewelry something special.”

JCKONLINE.COM

RINGING IN A WEDDING BIZ In addition to the fish-bone and weathered pieces, the real attention-grabbers of the Sarah Swell collection are her one-of-a-kind rings. Many of these have rose-cut and fullcut diamonds; most are set in 18k gold. Greenberg says she runs a “healthy” alternative wedding business on these rings alone: “I get people who don’t want traditional rings but still want something they’ll treasure. It makes me happy to be able to make those rings for them.”

KEEPING IT ECLECTIC Elsewhere in the shop, jewelry from artists such as Delphine Leymarie, Jessica Winzelberg, and Emilie Shapiro stands out—very different from Greenberg’s, yet almost all evocative of nature in some way. The store also carries perfumes, candles, and hand-hewn wooden boxes. “Even if you don’t buy something,” Greenberg says, “we want you to leave feeling like the experience was memorable.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

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the industry authority

MARCH / APRIL 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

2

3

LOVE FOR SALE

4 1/ Diamond Heart eternity ring in 14k yellow and white gold; $2,300; Sydney Evan; 213-2364444; sydneyevan.com

2/ Caviar Heart pendant with diamonds in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold; $995; Lagos; 877925-4305; lagos.com

Once strictly the purview of Valentine’s Day and uninspired husbands, heart-shape jewelry has gone from cloyingly sweet to fashionably tart

BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5

3/ Eros Passion earrings in 18k yellow gold with black diamonds; $8,400; Elena Votsi at Muse; 866-3016873; elenavotsi.com JCKONLINE.COM

4/ Baby Heart Lock clasp in 14k rose gold; $565; Marla Aaron; 646799-1434; marlaaaron.com

5/ Heart pendant with diamonds and sapphires in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold; $29,375; Sylva & Cie; 213-488-1444; sylvacie.com

the look

RED CARPET

66

LET’S GET DIGITAL the best bejeweled fingers at the 2017 Golden Globes

JeSSICA BIel

Though her multihyphenate husband, Justin Timberlake, was a Globe nominee (for his super-catchy original song “Can’t Stop the Feeling,” from Trolls), Biel was truly a winner in an edgy, very on-trend gown—The belt! The appliqués! The plunging bodice!—by Elie Saab and clusters of gold, diamond, garnet, ruby, and pearl jewels by Neil Lane.

Fun fact: Biel’s hair, pulled into a low bun, was topped with delicate gold chains that echoed the adornments on her gold foliate earrings.

Diamond, ruby, and gold Toi et Moi ring; price on request; Neil Lane; 310-2755015; neillane.com

JANelle MoNÁe

Not only did Monáe star in two of last year’s most critically acclaimed films—Hidden Figures and the Globe winner for best drama, Moonlight— but the stylish singer-actress made a huge splash on the red carpet in a custom Armani Privé and a pearl-topped ’do. It’s not easy to pull off polka dots, but the black paillettes, plus the black-and-white palette—accented by colorless Forevermark diamond rings and bangles—gave Monáe’s look an enviable and effortless whimsy.

Forevermark pavé oval ring with 2.64 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; price on request; Forevermark; 203-388-3550; forevermark.com

Taj Butterfly Mirrored ring in 18k white gold with 0.65 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,570; Sara Weinstock; sara@ saraweinstock.com; saraweinstock.com

UNDER $2,000 Double pear ruby and diamond ring in 18k gold; $10,920; Shay; 646-745-6831; shayfinejewelry.com

MARCH / APRIL 2017

BIEL: STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; MONÁE: VALERIE MACON/AFP/GETTY

UNDER $7,500

Jaipur 18k gold and garnet ring, $505, Siviglia 18k gold and diamond small pavé ring, $1,430; Marco Bicego; 415-249-3800; marcobicego.com

UNDER $5,000 UNDER $15,000

Shield ring in 18k white gold with 1.14 cts. t.w. diamonds; $3,195; Anne Sisteron; 310-550-0716; annesisteron.com JCKONLINE.COM

the look

Q&A

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Asks...

ROBERT PROCOP the designer boasts a collector’s eye, a commitment to charitable causes, and a love of natural colored stones

JUST HOW EXCEPTIONAL are Robert Procop’s exceptional jewels? He’s actually taken them on tour. The Beverly Hills, Calif.–based designer recently exhibited his impressive emerald collection at a select few lucky U.S. retailers. You also might remember some eye-popping emeralds in his Style of Jolie line, created with the Oscar-winning actress Angelina Jolie, with all the proceeds benefiting children’s education. But his palette goes far beyond green pieces. Asked to name his favorite colored stone, he replies simply: “One with a rare natural color.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: Somewhere between Drake and Santa Claus.

Number of years in the biz: 40 Family and pets: Very close family full of love and laughter.

Describe your personal style: Enjoy a black-tie dinner and love jeans and a T-shirt for sushi by the beach.

First piece you ever designed: Ruby-eye skull ring, quite ugly.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

Robert Procop’s 12.71 ct. cushioncut blue sapphire with diamonds in platinum

A Robert Procop classic: a 30.78 ct. emerald-cut emerald with diamond accents

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: They are like children—I’m proud of them all. This week, an alexandrite cat’s-eye bracelet.

Tell us about the piece you’re working on right now: A very intricate bracelet that will take a year to finish.

Best piece of advice you ever received: “Only buy the best natural gem you can afford.”

Worst piece of advice: “Stop buying.”

First job ever: In my father’s engineering plant at 12 years old.

How did you get started designing jewelry? I worked in a pawnshop when I was 16. The following year I bought an old cluster ring and made several contemporary rings from the diamonds.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing?

Architect.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Only cufflinks.

Items on your desk right now: Emerald specimen, an auction catalog of space memorabilia, laser flashlight, Apple laptop, and this No. 2 pencil I am writing with.

Songs on your playlist: “Thinking Out Loud,” Ed Sheeran; “Fantasy,” Alina Baraz & Galimatias; “Crystal Ball,” Styx; “The Hills,” the Weeknd.

Exercise regimen: CrossFit, ski, and surf.

What did you have for breakfast? Oatmeal, smoothie, and an omelet.

Guilty pleasure: Extra añejo tequila.

Drink (daytime/evening): Fresh juice/fine wine.

First website you check every day (not your own!): Ski reports—MammothMountain.com.

Scent: Gardenia in the morning, lavender at night.

How do you unwind? Glass of wine and great food, finished by a hot fudge sundae.

Book you’re reading: The Artisan Soul, by Erwin Raphael McManus.

Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Alexander Hamilton,

by Ron Chernow.

One must-visit spot for someone traveling to Los Angeles: Petersen Automotive Museum.

Favorite movie: Too many; La La Land this year.

Who would play you in your life story? Leonardo DiCaprio.

JCKONLINE.COM

GARDENIA: KAIDEVILS/GETTY; DRINK: KARANDAEV/GETTY; SKIERS: CREATIVAIMAGE/GETTY

An emerald from the designer’s extensive (and welltraveled) collection

CONTACT: 212-520-4972 SALESUSA@THOMASSABO.COM

2017 FINALIS T

VICENZAORO Italian Pavillion S10122

HAIR: FRED VAN DE BUNT/ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLIST: VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS; MANICURIST: MAYUMI ABUKU/RONA REPRESENTS; BLACK CROP TOP: VIKA GAZINSKAYA/THEOUTNET.COM

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FEATURES

Photograph by Pat ric Shaw

JCKONLINE.COM

MARCH / APRIL 2017

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SPOTLIGHT

C I R Cof L E S L I G H T W E ’ V E TA K E N A S H I N E T O H I G H - P O L I S H S I LV E R S T Y L E S —

A C C E N T E D W I T H A G AT E , D OT T E D W I T H G E M S TO N E S , T R I M M E D I N G O L D , A N D S I M P LY A L L - S T E R L I N G , A L L T H E T I M E

Photography by Stephen Lewis

/

Jewelry styling by Randi Molofsky

Andromeda multi-hoop sterling silver necklace with quartz slide; $1,250; Simon Alcantara; 212-219-1749; simonalcantara.com

Classic Chain hammered link necklace in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold; $5,900; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

Ring with black spinel in sterling silver; $190; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1489; gabrielny.com

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Jupiter bangle in sterling silver; $1,800; Spinelli Kilcollin; 213-341-8244; spinellikilcollin.com

Dot choker in sterling silver with black agate and 18k yellow gold; $1,850; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

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Hand-hammered choker in sterling silver; $940; Lalaounis; 212-439-9400; iliaslalaounis.eu

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Earrings in sterling silver with 18k rose gold–plated accents; $160; Frederic Duclos; 866-898-3636; fredericduclos.com

PROP STYLIST: RACHEL HAAS/KING MANAGEMENT AGENCY

Cuff with black Italian rubber and white cubic zirconia in rhodiumplated sterling silver; $425; Belle Etoile; 877-838-6728; belleetoilejewelry.com

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SPOTLIGHT

LUSTER FOR LIFE 5 S T E R L I N G S I LV E R B R A N D S Y O U M A Y N O T H AV E H E A R D O F ( Y E T )

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Coral Lace collar necklace in polished sterling silver (also available in antique bronze); $948; Marisa Lomonaco; ml@ marisalomonaco. com; marisa lomonaco.com

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QUICK! What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of sterling silver? Is it price point?

Gift-worthy? Tiffany & Co., perhaps?

2 Cocoon pendant in sterling silver on 18-inch Venetian box chain (also available in 14k gold vermeil); $365; Moratorium; moratorium.nyc

AS THE LESS EXPENSIVE cousin of the precious metal family, sterling silver has long been favored by shoppers on a budget. While still considered fine jewelry, the metal won’t break the bank. But where there is high demand, there is mass production, and that goes against the grain of what buyers are currently seeking. Instead, demand is rising for artisanal goods with a mission, a story, a face.

The five talented designers profiled here are ready and able to answer the call. All work in sterling silver, honoring the craft of jewelry-making while imbuing their designs with both passion and personality.

You may not be familiar with their names just yet, but trust us—you soon will be.

By Brittany Siminitz

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Artemis Arm Cuff in polished sterling silver; $2,000; Saint Ann; sales@ saintannjewelry. com; saintann jewelry.com

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4 Winter Moon necklace in oxidized sterling silver with 18k and 22k gold, stainless steel cable, blue tourmaline, and diamonds; $3,200; Alison Antelman; alison@antelman. com; antelman.com

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Sister Moon crescent necklace with antique paste stones; $1,200; D.Jo Jewelry; dena@djojewelry. com; djojewelry.com

(OPPOSITE PAGE) PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN LEWIS; (THIS PAGE) THOMAS: YANA BARDADIM; SPINELLI: JENNIFER ESTEBAN

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MARISA LOMONACO

MORATORIUM

SAINT ANN

ALISON ANTELMAN

D.JO JEWELRY

Combining a sculptural aesthetic with naturally occurring patterns and textures, Marisa Lomonaco’s designs are wonderfully unpredictable. “I’m constantly filling my pockets with found objects, and take great pride in translating them into lasting, wearable relics,” says the designer, who works from a studio in Beacon, N.Y. Lomonaco began forging bracelets, earrings, rings, and necklaces by hand in 2008.

Her Coral collection features corals, bones, and fossils cast into sterling silver or antique bronze; the Endless Column collection is inspired by a Constantin Brancusi sculpture; while the Axis collection takes its inspiration from the movement of faceted light.

The designer’s favorite line, however, is the Leather collection, striking in its animal textures, including alligator and armadillo.

“I’m obsessed with the way texture can be translated to metal,” she says. “Like a great leather jacket, these pieces seem to evolve over time and become more beautiful with wear and age.”

Lomonaco’s designs are priced $80–$900. She also offers custom fine and bridal jewelry by appointment.

With a flair for the dramatic, Moratorium’s edgy-chic styles incorporate signature three-dimensional shapes, many of which resemble pyramids (or, for the gemobsessed, diamonds).

“I chose a symmetrical pyramid because it forced me to get very good and precise at silversmithing—I only started learning it as a hobby in 2009,” says New York City– based designer Jeanette Lai Thomas. “I also believe there are common themes found in all cultures around the world. The pyramid is one of them, and it’s an unbelievably strong structure.”

It’s Thomas’ modern reinterpretation of classic shapes that makes the line a solid choice for retailers. “Like pyramids, I want my jewelry to be timeless,” she says.

Retail prices run from $100 for a simple pair of sterling pyramid earrings to the $2,800 Moratorium Rosary: At 30 inches long (including its lavaliere-style drop), this solid sterling silver necklace is made up of 40 individual pyramid-shape elements and features 40 solder points. (In 14k gold vermeil, the Rosary rings in at $3,300.)

Each piece is carefully crafted and polished in sterling silver.

Los Angeles designer Ann Marie Spinelli’s Saint Ann jewelry brand is practically a newborn, having come to life in 2016. Named for Saint Anne, the patron saint of gold- and silversmiths (and also equestrian riders)—her womb was said to be the source of the precious metals—the brand is Spinelli’s take on bold, unisex jewelry.

“Erotic art and literature, along with the power and mythological mystery of the Greek/Roman classical styles, have also played a profound role,” says the designer.

“Through these inspirations, I create heirloom pieces that are timeless yet modern, and empowering.”

With collections named for Olympians—Aphrodite, Venus, and Athena, to name a few—these creations are not simply put forth as jewels, but instead as “body adornment.” Ornamental elements popular in the Art Nouveau and Deco periods are common throughout the collection, which includes rings, cuff bracelets (for both the wrist and upper arm), and headpieces, all made in downtown L.A. Pieces are available in sterling silver, with retail prices ranging from $2,000 to $5,000, as well as in 18k yellow gold.

Crafting one-of-a-kind pieces in her Berkeley, Calif., studio, designer Alison Antelman seeks to define the relationship between metal and movement in her jewelry.

Abstract and open to interpretation, her work can truly be described as wearable art.

New York City inspired Antelman’s current collection of the same name. “I always loved the city, felt comfortable there, loved the serendipity of stumbling upon a wonderful photography exhibit or some oddball thing,” she says. That love translates to her designs, which boast an urban edge.

Antelman, though continually discovering new techniques and processes, teaches a variety of jewelry design and fabrication workshops in her studio. “I find that teaching has honed my own skills, particularly the ability to troubleshoot and puzzle solve,” she says. “I enjoy the workshop through the students: seeing what they’re going to learn, pursuing it with hesitation, and then seeing their satisfaction in completing and achieving the project.”

Antelman’s creations— rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and brooches— range in price from $250 to $6,200. Custom-design requests are welcome.

That Dena Bagon grew up in a family of antique dealers is apparent in her creations.

Using original antique and vintage pieces—many featuring talismans commonly seen in Victorian times (snakes, crescent moons, stars)—the designer fashions them into contemporary styles.

“I adore the sentiment, hidden messages, and romance of the Victorian era,” says the Delray Beach, Fla.–based Bagon. Her reworking of these finds—stick pins into rings, pendants into brooches— results in modern treasures that are just as in demand now as they would have been more than a century ago.

The 5-year-old D.Jo line caters to a sense of individuality with jewels that bear symbols, characters, and messages.

The designs are intended to mark important moments and relationships: friendship, love, marriage, children.

“I love the snake pieces; they celebrate never-ending love,” Bagon says. “The evil eye is a very close second— someone watching over you, protecting you.”

D.Jo Jewelry is sold in select retail stores in California and Paris, though the designer also sells independently. Her sterling silver pieces start at $175, and gold at $250.

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B y K r i s t i n Yo u n g

STRIP ADVISER

PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO JCK LAS VEGAS IN JUNE? H E R E A R E T H E M O S T M O U T H WAT E R I N G R E S TA U R A N T S A N D ROCKIN’ CONCERTS IN SIN CIT Y— GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU GOING LONG AFTER BUSINESS HOURS.

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IF

YOU’RE A FAN of the Hangover films, you can’t help but chuckle at Stu’s line in the third movie: “Someone needs to burn this place to the ground,” he says. “I told myself I would never come back.” Stu (played by Ed Helms) is referring to the night of shame, debauchery, and mayhem in Las Vegas that set all three Hangover plots in motion.

However, contrary to what popular culture would have us believe, most of what happens in Vegas is not hard partying, gambling, or one-night stands. A good number of us associate Sin City with trade shows, networking, and hard work.

Las Vegas visitor statistics back up this business-centered version of the city. Whether you’re in fashion, tech, or fine jewelry, Vegas has been the No. 1 trade show destination in the United States for 22 consecutive years, according to the Trade Show News Network. In addition, the World Travel Awards named the city the world’s leading meetings and conferences destination for 2016, the fourth year in a row it has received the honor.

In response to the demand for trade show space, Mandalay Bay Convention Center—home to JCK Las Vegas, which runs this year June 5–8, a few days later than its typical schedule, due to the Shavuot holiday (LUXURY runs June 2–8, invite-only June 2–4)—added 350,000 square feet of exhibition space last August to the tune of $70 million. The convention center now boasts more than 2 million square feet, with 900,000-plus square feet of contiguous exhibition space.

After the workday is done, however, Las Vegas is the place to wine and dine clients or perhaps take in a show. And, sure, it’s great to get in some shopping, but can’t you do that

anywhere? Why not take advantage of Vegas’ famous residency shows featuring big-name performers and top-tier restaurants imported from all over the world? Read on to learn what’s new and notable in the Entertainment Capital of the World.

BOOK A SHOW Of course, what would Las Vegas be without its bumper crop of celebrity headliners and spectacular performances? The stunning Park Theater at Monte Carlo Resort and Casino officially opened in December with Stevie Nicks and the Pretenders delivering the venue’s first concert. The 5,200-seat Park is expecting a number of A-listers to follow suit this year, including Bruno Mars, Cher, and Ricky Martin, who’s due to make his residency debut in April with performances slated through September.

“We had a successful Park Theater opening in December and look forward to an exciting entertainment lineup in our first year,” says Dan Bernbach, executive director and general manager of the theater.

If you’re heading to Vegas early, Céline Dion will be wrapping up her residency show at Caesars Palace on June 2 and 3 before leaving for her European summer tour. After taking a break to be with her family, Dion returned to The Colosseum with a revamped show incorporating 31 musicians, in a full orchestra and band. Also on June 2 and 3, catch Ron White’s gritty show at The Mirage Hotel & Casino as the cigar-smoking, scotch-drinking funnyman brings his trademark “blue-collar” comedy to Vegas. Die-hard fans have a chance that weekend to catch Donny and Marie Osmond at the Flamingo.

The performers have the same flashy backup dancers and good oldfashioned rapport (not to mention toothpaste-commercial smiles)

(From left) The seemingly ageless Osmonds; the sushi bar at Morimoto; Parmesan churros at Libertine Social; yellowtail at Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill; the Backstreet Boys

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“People come to Las Vegas from all over the world. I wanted to take the challenge.

I mean, who doesn’t like Vegas?”

—Chef Masaharu Morimoto, Morimoto Las Vegas

JCK editors reveal their to-do lists while in Las Vegas:

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(PREVIOUS SPREAD) FREMONT STREET: VW PICS/ZUMA PRESS; (THIS SPREAD) THE OSMONDS: ERIK KABIK

they had on their decade-defining variety show in the late ’70s.

JCK Las Vegas is also the perfect opportunity to see the very last week of Jennifer Lopez’s “All I Have” concert, which wraps up J.Lo’s nearly yearlong residency at The Axis at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino on June 11. And, as if that weren’t enough, the Backstreet Boys announced a new residency show, “Backstreet Boys: Larger Than Life,” at The Axis Theater beginning March 1. Finally, if you’re into soulful funk music, see Cameo at the Westgate Resort & Casino through June 30.

A FOODIE’S PARADISE It’s been decades since Las Vegas officially moved on from steakhouses and buffets to a world-class lip-smacking hub for prominent chefs and some of the best eateries anywhere. A number of restaurants are vying to join the ranks of Spago and Le Cirque, two hot spots that ushered in the era of celebrity chefs.

Last fall, Libertine Social opened inside Mandalay Bay. James Beard Award–winning chef Shawn McClain has upgraded traditional American bar food to small plates, such as toasts and dips, and more substantial entrees like a Wagyu skirt steak. “When people come to Las Vegas, they want to have a good time and experience the best food and drinks out there with their friends who know how to have fun, which is what Libertine Social is all about,” McClain says.

Is Cuba on your travel list, but you have yet to book a trip?

Get a taste of the Caribbean island at the Sugarcane Raw Bar Grill, which debuted at The Venetian last November. The Vegas outpost of chef Timon Balloo's popular Miami eatery offers such

delicacies as West Coast snapper ceviche and sepia squid ink aioli.

If British casual pub food is more your speed, head to the recently opened Gordon Ramsay Fish & Chips, where you’ll find that signature dish as well as numerous variations on the chips themselves: sea salt; chipotle, jalapeño, and chorizo; truffle, Parmesan, and chives; and cacciatore spice and fresh basil. The Hell’s Kitchen star opened his fourth restaurant in Vegas in November in The Linq Promenade—a dining, shopping, and entertainment district in the heart of the Strip—and it has become one of his most popular.

Another newcomer worth sampling is Turmeric Flavors of India, especially if you’re planning to check out the booming downtown restaurant scene. Owned by brothers-in-law Rajesh and Ritesh Patel, Turmeric Flavors boasts traditional dishes like chicken curry and palak paneer alongside items you rarely find on an Indian restaurant menu, such as beef curry. Wash it down with Milk & Honey, a drink composed of Hangar 1 kaffir lime vodka, coconut milk, honey, turmeric, cardamom, and coriander.

Meanwhile, Masaharu Morimoto, Japanese chef and star of Food Network’s Iron Chef America, opened his contemporary Japanese restaurant Morimoto Las Vegas at the MGM Grand in October. Guests can select from three dining experiences, including a sushi bar and a main dining room, as well as the chef ’s first effort at teppanyaki, a style of Japanese cooking that uses an iron griddle. “Morimoto Las Vegas is different…because it’s in Las Vegas,” Morimoto says. “People choose to come to Las Vegas from all over the world. I wanted to take the challenge. I mean, who doesn’t like Vegas?”

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Editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky is dead set on going to the city’s Neon Museum to visit its legendary neon sign Boneyard. (neonmuseum.org) Managing editor Melissa Rose Bernardo will be hitting the outlets!

Between BCBG, Adidas, Off 5th, and Last Call, the bargains at the 175-store Las Vegas North Premium Outlets are well worth the taxi ride. (premiumoutlets.com/outlet/ las-vegas-north) News director Rob Bates is looking forward to JCK’s annual family dinner, which usually takes place at Mandalay Bay’s Strip Steak. (mandalaybay.com) Senior editor Emili Vesilind is definitely returning to Rose.

Rabbit. Lie., the dark and dramatic supper club at The Cosmopolitan. Tap dancers and a Nell Carter– look-alike soul singer jumped on her table during their performance last year. It’s irresistibly over-the-top! (cosmopolitanlasvegas.com) Contributing editor Brittany Siminitz wants to go somewhere she’s never been: Fremont Street. The area’s history, bright lights, and onslaught of new restaurants are making it difficult to stay away. (vegasexperience.com)

AG EN TS OF

CHANGE M E E T I N S TA G R A M ’ S N E W P OW E R S E L L E R S , S T Y L E INFLUENCERS WHO ARE CHANGING THE FACE OF MODERN MARKETING

B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

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RECENT INSTAGRAM POST from jewelry retailer Bernie Robbins Jewelers showed a young blond woman standing in front of the colorful, whipped meringue–shape domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow’s Red Square. The woman’s eyes were closed peacefully to the setting sun, her left arm flung over a shoulder. Gleaming on her wrist was a chunky steel watch. Jewelry brand Gabriel & Co.’s Instagram account (@gabrielandco) was tagged, and the hashtags included #BernieRobbinsJewelers and #BernieRobbins.

The woman was Kristina Smolyar, a social media influencer with 14,000-plus followers, who’s based in Philadelphia— near two of the Somers Point, N.J., retailer’s four locations.

The Instagram post—along with several others on both Smolyar’s and Robbins’ feeds—was the product of a partnership between the retailer and the up-and-coming style influencer. Before teaming up with Smolyar, the store collaborated with Philadelphia style-guy-about-town Ian Michael Crumm, who has more than 300,000 Instagram followers, on posts and even an in-store appearance flagging Crumm’s favorite pieces. Crumm was also the store’s face for the Swiss watch brand Tudor in late 2016, when he posted a series of artsy photos of his wrists strapped with Tudor timepieces.

Harvey Rovinsky, owner of Bernie Robbins, says the campaigns with the young fashionistas have “dramatically increased the reach of what we do. We all know that any kind of an editorial mention is more effective than advertising—and that’s what this comes down to. These are people who are using their network to increase our reach.”

UNDER THE INFLUENCE Bernie Robbins has hitched its wagon to marketing’s newest frontier—influencer marketing.

The idea is an old one: Tap a well-known ambassador to advocate for you publicly and reap the brand-building benefits. But with influencer marketing, the ambassador’s face— and role in the campaign—has been updated.

Before social media, companies relied on celebrity endorsements. Today, however, we live in an age when brands can target consumers on Facebook down to the kind of music they like—and it’s been proved that social influencers with huge followings are actually more effective as brand evangelists than, say, Jennifer Aniston or Denzel Washington.

According to a recent report by marketing firm Collective Bias, 30 percent of consumers said they are more likely to purchase a product endorsed by a non-celebrity blogger than by a celebrity. And among millennial-age respondents, 70 percent strongly preferred influencer endorsements over celebrity endorsements. “Consumers can relate to us more than a 6-foot model,” said style influencer Aimee Song, founder of the Song of Style blog, during a panel presentation at a National Retail Federation (NRF) event in January.

MAIN IMAGE BY PATRIC SHAW; MANICURIST: MAYUMI ABUKU/RONA REPRESENTS; NEAPOLITAN OPAL RING AND BLUEBERRY TANZANITE RING, BOTH WITH CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA DIAMONDS IN 18K STRAWBERRY GOLD, $12,897–$47,297, LE VIAN, 877-2-LEVIAN, LEVIAN.COM; JOSIE BANDS WITH EMERALDS, RUBIES, AND SAPPHIRES IN STERLING SILVER, $775, JOSIE BANDS WITH EMERALDS, GREEN SAPPHIRES, AND RUBIES IN 18K GOLD, $1,395,

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Timepieces on @watchanish (top and bottom), rings on @gemgossip, and wrist sparkle on @jewelsdujour.

The NRF reported that same month that every $1 spent on influencers generates a return on investment of $6.83.

Considering that 92 percent of consumers look to social media when making shopping decisions—another statistic from the NRF—the dots connect perfectly.

MEREDITH MARKS, 888-413-5077, MEREDITHMARKS.COM; OPIUM RING WITH LONDON BLUE TOPAZ AND GRAY DIAMONDS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $9,704, DEBORAH PAGANI, 646-546-5515, DEBORAHPAGANI.COM; (OPPOSITE PAGE, ON PHONE) 2ND ROW, C.: BULGARI/BONHAMS; 2ND ROW, R.: BETTERIDGE; 3RD ROW, L.: CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD.; 5TH ROW, C.: VERDURA; PHONE CASE: MICHAEL KORS/BLOOMINGDALE’S; (THIS PAGE) BRACELET: BONHAMS

ORGANIC REACH In the jewelry and watch industries, smaller, more tech-savvy brands—presumably those looking for low-cost alternatives to traditional advertising—tend to dabble in influencer marketing far more often than independent retailers and even more established jewelry brands.

Swedish upstart watch brand Daniel Wellington, for example, recently collaborated with thousands of Instagram influencers, who posted discount coupons in the guise of hip Instagram posts.

Take Barcelona, Spain–based blogger and style influencer Adriana Gastélum, whose Instagram feed is @fakeleather. In April 2016, she posted a photo of a glamorous desktop (featuring all-white accessories and a bowl of ruby-red raspberries) with the caption “Working Sundays with endless cups of coffee & @danielwellington watches. 15 percent off with the hashtag #danielwellington.com with code ‘fakeleather.’ ” The post, one of thousands generated by influencers for the campaign, garnered close to 2,000 likes.

MVMT Watches, another purveyor of watches targeting young and hip consumers, rolled out a similar campaign in 2016. The brand partnered with dozens of Instagram influencers for its #jointhemvmt campaign—which papered the internet with artful pics of wrists in MVMT watches. Each post featured a discount code specific to the influencer, plus the hashtag #jointhemvmt. One of these posts, by professional surfer Anastasia Ashley (@anastasiaashley) in January, earned 6,114 likes alone.

Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld’s 1-year-old bridal jewelry collection, created in collaboration with New York City–based manufacturer Frederick Goldman, partnered with Julie Sariñana (@sincerelyjules) last year on posts designed to introduce the brand to Sariñana’s 4 million–plus Instagram following. Sample post: the SoCal entrepreneur’s hand in a glittering Lagerfeld diamond ring with the caption “Attended the official launch event of @karllagerfeld bridal jewelry today and didn’t want to take this beautiful one off! #SayYesWithKarl.” The bridal brand re-posted it, and the posts racked up more than 100,000 collective likes (Sariñana’s numbered more than 70,000 alone). Since the collaboration debuted, Sariñana’s posts about Lagerfeld’s bridal jewelry have earned more than 144,000 likes and 1,600 comments on Instagram.

Such success stories are seductive, especially given that most influencers are “paid” in trade, not cash.

Rovinsky, for example, works with brands to compensate influencers with merchandise. “At this point, we are not prepared to pay cash to anyone,” he says.

Five jewelry and watch influencers lighting up Instagram right now:

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CAMPAIGN POLITICS Looks easy, right? Experts say it isn’t—and warn that finding and building relationships with young influencers (whose professionalism varies) takes time and ingenuity. Jana Shaps, an influencer marketing manager for digital branding agency Mirum in Los Angeles, works exclusively with influencers, brokering deals between the young and fabulous and brands hoping to harness some of their stardust.

A good campaign, she says, pairs a brand with influencers who would wear a product even if they weren’t being compensated. (Example: Last year, Polo Ralph Lauren, which is steeped in sports culture, collaborated on Instagram with pro rock climber Chris Sharma and wingsuit flier Jokke Sommer—guys you could see in Polo.) “You can tell where an influencer’s passions lie within their content,” Shaps says.

“You don’t want to hire an influencer who’s passionate about food to promote deodorant. That comes off as a pure ad.”

And if you’re a local retail business, your influencers should have a fan following in that region. “I’m not interested in someone who has 2 million followers and lives across the country,” Rovinsky says. “We have to focus on our market.”

Thinking local may save you from what Shaps says is a common mistake: overpaying influencers who have huge followings but little power to move units. “Brands allow influencers to gouge them for money all the time,” she says. “They hire someone who charges $50,000 for a single Instagram post… and then wonder where the [consumer] engagement is.”

The bottom line: It’s better to work with an influencer with a smaller following that more closely mirrors your clientele than it is to pay Justin Bieber big bucks to ’Gram for your brand. A post doesn’t have the same reach and power as a magazine ad. So, at least at this point in social media history, you shouldn’t be spending ad-style dollars on influencers.

That’s not to say influencer marketing isn’t worth investing in. Reach out to influencers in your area personally, or, if you’re ready to dive in, pony up to work with a growing cache of agencies like Mirum for guidance. A synergistic collaboration can spark a sales flurry and kick off meaningful dialogue about your brand in a space where consumers come to browse, socialize, and discover cool new things.

“When it’s right, it’s right,” Shaps says. “If an influencer can relay a story behind a piece of jewelry and also make it very personal—that’s an extremely powerful thing.”

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Liza Urla (@gemologue) Followers: 90,300 Urla, a Russian-born, New York City–educated Londoner with a gemology degree, maintains a glossy magazine–like Instagram feed to detail her personal style and adventures in jewelry—which take her to trade shows, boutiques, showrooms, and fashion shows all over the world.

Danielle Miele (@gemgossip) Followers: 147,000 The Nashville, Tenn.–based jewelry blogger (gemgossip. com), gemologist, and jewelry collector showcases extraordinary jewelry and gems on her colorful ’Gram.

Natalie Bos Betteridge (@jewelsdujour) Followers: 47,200 Betteridge was formerly the social media manager for her family’s estate jewelry and watch firm, the Greenwich, Conn.–based Betteridge. Her Instagram and blog (jewels dujour.com) are “dedicated to the discovery and exploration of important jewelry.”

Becky Stone (@diamondsinthelibrary) Followers: 74,500 Vintage jewelry and highbrow literature merge on Stone’s popular website, diamondsinthelibrary.com. But her Instagram is all jewelry— guided by her taste for quirkier, more cerebral designs.

Anish Bhatt (@watchanish) Followers: 1.7 million London-based Bhatt travels the world snapping photos of expensive timepieces against backdrops that feature fast cars, luxury yachts, fancy cocktails, and/or beautiful women in various exotic locales (Shanghai, Beirut, Miami).

What began as a Tumblr in 2011 has spawned a secondary @watchanishasia feed and a slew of copycats worldwide.

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A range of Krombholz Jewelers custom pieces, from a wrought-ironstyle pendant to a diamond-studded bird brooch…

CUSTOM RE LAT IONS NO JEWELRY REQUEST

IS TOO BIG, TOO SMALL, OR TOO OUTRAGEOUS FOR THESE VISIONARY DESIGNERS AND R E TA I L E R S

By Kathy Henderson

…to the infamous golden-egg familytree pendant.

A PAIR OF jasper cufflinks carved and painted to resemble a client’s pet dogs; a wide platinum band dotted with inherited diamonds; a gold egg that opens to reveal an engraved family tree. All were produced by jewelers in response to a request—some might call it a challenge—from customers eager to take home a one-of-a-kind treasure.

Twenty years ago, custom jewelry design referred to little more than mixing and matching stones in premade settings. “When my dad and my grandfather custom-made jewelry, they would open a casting catalog, show the client a picture, order it, and do a few adaptations,” says Lee Krombholz, third-generation owner of Krombholz Jewelers in Cincinnati. “Very few jewelers at that time would carve waxes and design a fully custom piece because it was a fairly expensive process.” Today, Krombholz chairs the newly formed Council of Custom Jewelers of Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America (MJSA) and considers custom work an integral part of his 76-year-old retail business, with commissions such as that golden family-tree egg.

The rise in custom design can be traced on one hand to consumer demand, particularly among millennials in search of a unique accessory, and on the other hand to the use of CAD software that allows jewelers to create 3-D models with endless variations in detail. “I can’t draw a straight line with a ruler,” jokes Matthew Patton, a fourth-generation jeweler in Baton Rouge, La. But thanks to design software, he has spent the past two years pursuing his passion for custom design at his Cut Fine Jewelers, where 90 percent of his business is custom.

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Ornately set diamond rings are a specialty of Matthew Patton’s at Cut Fine Jewelers.

“I’m not the traditional retailer that buys a bunch of jewelry, puts it in a showcase, then hopes everybody comes in and likes what I’ve got,” says Patton, who specializes in top-quality diamonds in intricate settings. “We want to make it to order.”

Noting that clients typically have a limited vision of what’s possible when choosing, say, an engagement ring, Patton begins with a detailed consultation. For a couple raised in New Orleans, he designed a ring that echoes the curves of iron balconies in the French Quarter, with tiny diamonds set in the filigree under the center stone. The process is made easier by CAD models (Patton favors software from Matrix or Rhino), which can be revised and printed in wax to show exactly what the finished piece will look like.

Reinventing vintage pieces is a hallmark of designers like Sarah Ortega, who followed her mother into the business at Ooh! Aah! Jewelry retail stores in Denver and Albuquerque, N.M. Ten years ago, Ortega introduced her Sarah O. line of customizable bridal jewelry in styles both dainty and edgy.

“I’m fascinated by old diamonds and mine cuts,” Ortega says, “and I love helping customers repurpose heirloom pieces that have sentimental value but may not be practical anymore because the metal is too thin.” Her first custom project—she plucked three diamonds from a client’s family pieces and hammer-set them side by side in a thick platinum band—remains a favorite.

Ortega’s biggest challenge: finding employees with CAD design skills “who can think outside the box. Somebody who will take a ring and copy it? No. They have to get creative with

the stones, because that’s what customers are looking for. They come to us for ideas and inspiration, and we have to show them something they’re not going to find anywhere else.”

CUSTOM VIA COMPUTER To help traditional retailers get started in the custom market, manufacturing giant Stuller and its Gemvision technology division created CounterSketch, an easy-to-use software program that allows shoppers to scroll through thousands of options on an in-store computer screen that can be printed in 3-D, produced by Stuller, and shipped in 10 days or less.

“Millennial buyers shop online before buying, and they’re used to dealing with technology every day,” says Gemvision sales director Doug Kerns. “CounterSketch gives them a reason to go to a jewelry store, and the retailer can offer custom designs without having to stock excess inventory.”

Krombholz praises CounterSketch’s real-time pricing feature. “As you’re working with the client, the program figures out the weight of the metal and the size of the stones, and when you’re finished, you can push a button, get a price quote, and order the piece.”

CounterSketch is considered a “semi-custom” option in MJSA’s new three-tier definition of custom jewelry, which the trade association is putting in place to help shoppers understand their choices. “In a recent survey of our 350 members, 24 percent identified themselves as custom jewelers,” says MJSA spokesman Rich Youmans, “but there is a spectrum of ‘custom’ that can create confusion among consumers. A ‘full custom’ jeweler works at the bench to design and build a

Rings by Ooh! Aah! Jewelry’s Sarah Ortega, including one featuring a trio of a customer’s family stones

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Custom engagement designs by Wendy Brandes: a platinum and diamond ring (based on her own), and a nontraditional 18k gold style

piece, and the craftsmanship is exceptional.” The middle tier involves adapting and personalizing existing design elements.

In the third tier, designated “made to order,” a catalog model is tweaked through choice of metal and gemstones.

CLIENT SERVERS Designers have long embraced the “full custom” option as a means to develop a loyal clientele. At one end of the spectrum is Wendy Brandes, whose cheeky designs and sassy blog have driven sales since she founded her brand online a decade ago. “All of my jewelry experience comes from the fact that I couldn’t find what I was looking for in a store,” explains Brandes, a former journalist. Her first creation was her own engagement ring, a bold platinum band with a center diamond surrounded by eight widely spaced smaller stones and two more on the shank. The ring attracted the attention of a customer who had stopped wearing her delicate solitaire.

“She said, ‘I wish my engagement ring looked like yours,’ and I said, ‘Well, I’ll make it look like mine,’ ” says Brandes, adding with a laugh, “I had to add about three carats to it, but she loved it!” With a website that promises, “If you can describe it, she can create it,” Brandes has produced those jasper dog cufflinks (one boxer, one Jack Russell terrier), a stacked engagement ring in mixed metals, and a man’s wedding band carved in a Celtic design, among many other commissions.

“Once people see what is possible,” she says, “they feel more comfortable breaking out of a traditional look.”

On the superluxury end of the custom market is Sharon Khazzam, who began her career as Asprey’s in-house designer

Sharon Khazzam takes a timeout in 24k gold, emeralds, diamonds, and paraiba—and goes long in lemon citrine, green tourmaline, and diamonds.

and now offers her own jewel-encrusted earrings, rings, bracelets, and pendants at select Barneys locations. “Every piece I have ever designed has been one-of-a-kind,” she says, inspired by her evolving gem collection or by an idea that leads to a drawing. No computers for Khazzam—she makes her own wax layouts based on drawings and sends them to a New York City–based jeweler to convert into metal. Longtime clients often receive a framed original watercolor of their latest acquisition, all cataloged in Khazzam’s Great Neck, N.Y., studio.

“We’re not just selling ‘stuff,’ ” she says lightly. “We’re selling a jewel that we hope will be appreciated and enjoyed now and then passed on to a family member.” Last fall, Barneys debuted an in-store “bespoke event” with Khazzam in which jewelry collectors were invited to meet the designer and peruse a tray of gemstones that she then transformed into custom jewelry. “Following the journey of creation makes a piece that much more special,” she observes. “Barneys is inviting clients in to re-create the experience they would have in my studio.”

TO PROMOTE CUSTOM That moment a customer first sees her CRAFTSMANSHIP, MJSA IS grandmother’s diamond in a shiny new setCREATING A MENTORING PROGRAM ting or a bride-to-be is presented an engageSO THAT YOUNGER PEERS CAN ment ring inspired by her Pinterest dream CONSULT WITH CUSTOM JEWELERS WHO PASS ON THEIR KNOWLEDGE. board makes all the effort worthwhile. “The best part of custom design is when the cusFOR MORE tomer opens the box,” Ortega says. “I wish INFORMATION, CONTACT MJSA AT 508-316-2132 I had a video camera to record the tears and OR info@mjsa.org. laughter. It’s such a cool feeling to see everyone so happy about a piece of jewelry.”

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2017

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J EW EL ERS’ CHOICE AWA RDS

WINNERS

THE

F O R T H E F O U R T H Y E A R I N A R O W, A R I N G — A N D A N E V E R Y D A Y O N E A T T H A T ! — T O O K T H E TO P P R I Z E . B U T T H AT ’ S J U S T O N E O F T H E H O N O R E E S I N O U R T E N T H A N N U A L JEWELRY DESIGN COMPETITION. BEHOLD THE 50-PLUS NECKL ACES, BRACELETS, AND A S S O RT E D G L I T T E R I N G G E M S T H AT S TO L E R E TA I L E R S ’ H E A RT S ( A N D V OT E S ) .

G R AN D PRIZE WINNER

Kate collection starburst ring with 0.58 ct. t.w. pavĂŠ-set diamond rays in 14k yellow gold; $1,490; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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98

2

— BEST BRIDAL DESIGN —

1

3

OVER $10,000

2

$5,001–$10,000

Pirouetta collection double halo engagement semi-mount with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds and signature handcrafted filigree details; $5,930 (center stone not included); Kirk Kara; 800-874-0181; kirkkara.com

4

3

$2,501–$5,000

Semi-mount in 18k white gold with 1.55 cts. t.w. round pavé-set and side trapezoid diamonds; $4,900 (center stone not included); Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

— MEN’S JEWELRY —

5

OVER $1,000

Manno collection ring in 14k rose gold with 1.15 cts. t.w. white and champagne diamonds; $2,110; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

6

UNDER $1,000

Beveled 8 mm wedding band in 14k yellow gold with lapis lazuli inlay with gold pyrite flecks; $900; Thorsten Rings; 888-209-4757; thorstenrings.com

4

UNDER $2,500

Semi-mount in 14k rose gold with 0.54 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,220 (center stone not included); Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

(OPENING SPREAD) HAIR: FRED VAN DE BUNT/ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS; STYLIST: VLADIMYR PIERRE-LOUIS; MANICURIST: MAYUMI ABUKU/RONA REPRESENTS; DRESS: MARIA LUCIA HOHAN/MLH-SHOP.COM; HOOPS WITH CULTURED AKOYA PEARLS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $5,590, IRENE NEUWIRTH, 323-285-2000, IRENENEUWIRTH.COM

Ring in recycled platinum with 5 ct. emerald-cut diamond and 0.9 ct. t.w. ethically sourced diamond accents; $149,500; Brilliant Earth; 800-691-0952; brilliantearth.com

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J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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— BEST BRACELET DESIGN —

7

OVER $10,000

Art Deco geometric-inspired bracelet in 18k white gold with alternating white and fancy yellow oval, princess, and pear-shape diamonds; $55,000; Martin Flyer; 800-223-0330; martinflyer.com

8

9

Kate collection bypass bangle in 14k rose gold with 2.1 cts. t.w. diamonds; $4,600; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

14k yellow gold flexible bracelet with 4.08 ct. fire opal and diamond accents; $2,499; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

$2,501–$10,000

UNDER $2,500

— GOLD JEWELRY —

10

7

OVER $2,500

18k pink gold and diamond bangle bracelet with 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds; $9,780 (also available in 18k white and yellow gold); Messika, Paris; 33-17-039-1800; messika.com

11

8

UNDER $2,500

18k yellow gold hammerfinished ring with 0.38 ct. t.w round diamonds; $2,475; Jye’s International Inc.; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com

9

10

11

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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— BEST EARRING DESIGN —

14

UNDER $2,500

13

14k rose gold fringe earrings with 0.25 ct. t.w. white diamonds; $840; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

—

$2,501–$10,000

PLATINUM JEWELRY

18k rose gold dangle earrings with 4.83 cts. t.w. round brilliant-cut white diamonds; $5,400; Mira Style; 213-622-5233; mirastyle.us

—

15

12

OVER $10,000

Ring with eight pear-shape diamonds in platinum with white diamond melee; $32,000; Rahaminov Diamonds; 800-742-8864; rahaminov.com

OVER $10,000

L’Amour Crisscut diamond earrings; $30,790; Christopher Designs; 212-382-1013, ext. 1531; christopherdesigns.com

15

16

UNDER $10,000

16

Platinum Art Deco blue sapphire and diamond ring; $7,975; Michael Schofield & Co.; 812824-7789; michaelschofield.com

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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17

OVER $10,000

Necklace in 18k white gold with 53.8 cts. t.w. white diamonds; $82,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 800-NEON-GEM; neongems.com

20

OVER $1,000

Men’s band with 14k yellow gold finish and a sleeve of Damascus steel; $1,775; Lashbrook; 801352-7388; lashbrookdesigns.com

— BEST NECKLACE DESIGN —

— MIXED METAL JEWELRY —

18

$2,501–$10,000

Kate collection yellow gold choker with 1.56 cts. t.w. pavé-set diamonds; $3,990; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

19

UNDER $2,500

14k yellow gold chain with 0.29 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $1,050; Majolie Collections; 213-4891000; majoliecollections.com

21

UNDER $1,000

24k gold and sterling silver Balanchine open cuff with fusion gold; $990; Lika Behar Collection; 201-933-7200; likabehar.com

Best Bracelet, Under $2,500

Pearl Jewelry, $2,500 & Under

Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer brand.

To learn how our exciting programs can help your trafďŹ c and sales ourish, contact us at 877.838.6728 or sales@belleetoilejewelry.com. Let’s grow together.

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J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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— BEST RING DESIGN —

22

OVER $10,000

Ring in recycled platinum with a 9 ct. ethically sourced oval Ceylon sapphire and 2.9 cts. t.w. marquise, pear, and round diamonds; $36,000; Brilliant Earth; 800-691-0952; brilliantearth.com

22

23

$2,501–$10,000

18k white gold Waterfall ring; $9,010; Gabriel & Co.; 800-886-5422; gabrielny.com

23

24

UNDER $2,500

24

25

OVER $10,000

18k white gold ring with a 29.44 ct. tanzanite center and 6.36 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds; $100,660; Siera Jewelry; 213-623-6370; sierajewelry.com

26

UNDER $10,000

18k white gold cuff with sugarloaf tanzanites, mother-of-pearl backdrop, and diamond and tanzanite accents; $9,995; C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons; 91-804-000-1869; myjeweller@ckcsons.com

— TANZANITE JEWELRY —

Kate collection starburst ring with 0.58 ct. t.w. pavé-set diamond rays in 14k yellow gold; $1,490; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

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28

27

the heart & soul OF WEDDING BANDS

— BEST PRICE POINT —

27

28

$501–$1,000

Bar necklace with opal doublets; $895; Parlé Jewelry Designs; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

UNDER $500

Kate collection yellow gold necklace with 0.03 ct. t.w. pavé-set diamonds; $390; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

— BEST STATEMENT PIECE —

29

OVER $30,000 Luxury JCK Las Vegas 2017 #LUX 206

One-of-a-kind platinum ring with a 13.46 ct. Australian black opal, 0.61 ct. t.w. tsavorite garnets, 2.19 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 0.49 ct. t.w. diamonds; $160,000; Omi Privé; 877-664-4367; omiprive.com

30

$20,001–$30,000

Nine-stone L’Amour Crisscut band; $27,335; Christopher Designs; 212-382-1013, ext. 1531; christopherdesigns.com

31

$10,001–$20,000

Pear-shape fancy opaque ruby earrings with white diamonds; $19,530; Samira for Pink Diamond; 213-624-2611; samira@pinkdiamondusa.com; pinkdiamondusa.com

EVERYONE NEEDS A LITTLE SECRET

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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34

33

— COLORED DIAMOND JEWELRY —

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OVER $10,000 ONE RING - TWO ‚FACES‘ !

Transformable ring (e)motion with soft-touch function.

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Platinum and 18k rose gold ring with 1.13 cts. t.w. Argyle pink diamonds, 2.03 cts. t.w. pink diamond melee, and 2 cts. t.w. white baguettes; $699,000; Julez Bryant; 760931-1416; julezbryant.com

33

$2,501–$10,000

18k tri-gold ring with 0.51 ct. white round diamond and 0.31 ct. t.w. white melee, 0.41 ct. pink pear-shape diamond and 0.25 ct. t.w. pink melee, and 0.73 ct. yellow marquise-cut diamond and 0.27 ct. t.w. yellow melee; $8,000; Neon Gems Inc.; 800-NEON-GEM; neongems.com

34

UNDER $2,500

Manno collection ring in 14k rose gold with 1.15 cts. t.w. white and champagne diamonds; $2,110; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

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OVER $10,000

Flexible coil ring with 16.5 cts. t.w. marquise-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; $78,750; Norman Silverman Diamonds; 877-6873985; normansilverman.com

— DIAMOND JEWELRY —

35

— CONTEMPORARY METAL JEWELRY —

36

$2,501–$10,000

14k yellow gold Kaslique bangle; $8,945; Gabriel & Co.; 800-8865422; gabrielny.com

37

36 37

UNDER $2,500

Eden collection earrings with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $2,000; Shy Creation; 213-6238900; shycreation.com

38

OVER $1,000

Fine Jewelry Displays

Black and gray stainless steel cable bracelet with 18k white gold and 0.43 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,995; Alor; 858-454-0011; alor.com

39

UNDER $1,000

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

6 mm carbon fiber ring with a 0.05 ct. princess-cut diamond set in a 14k white gold box in a 14k yellow gold bezel; $999; Malo Creations; 450-682-6561; malobands.com

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

— PEARL JEWELRY —

40

OVER $10,000

41

18k gold Living Heirloom pendant with a 20.6 mm Tahitian pearl and 1.04 cts. t.w. pavé-set diamonds; $29,995; Maui Divers Jewelry; 800-253-6016; mauidivers.com

$2,501–$10,000

14k white gold pendant with white and yellow diamonds and golden South Sea pearl; $3,000; Alamea Hawaii; 808-922-5333; alameahawaii.com

42

UNDER $2,500

Rhodium-plated sterling silver cuff with white mother-of-pearl and white lab-grown stones; $795; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223, ext. 1001; belleetoilejewelry.com

43

44

— LAB-GROWN DIAMOND AND/ OR GEMSTONE JEWELRY —

43

OVER $1,000

14k white gold cuff with pear-shape 10.42 cts. t.w. Chatham created sapphires and 0.71 ct. t.w. naturally mined diamonds; $12,250; Chatham; 800-222-2002; chatham.com

44

UNDER $1,000

Heritage ring in platinum-bonded sterling silver with rose-cut Lassaire simulated diamonds and lab-grown sapphires; $330; Lafonn; 714-826-8888; lafonn.com

J EW E L E RS’ C HO IC E AWA RDS

116 — COLORED STONE JEWELRY —

45

45

OVER $10,000

Platinum ring with 24.59 ct.

Mozambique oval paraiba tourmaline and 1 ct. t.w. diamond accents; $800,000; Philip Zahm Designs; 831-662-3533; philipzahm.com

46

47

$2,501–$10,000

18k yellow gold ring with bezel-set pastel natural tumbled sapphires and white diamonds; $5,900; Parade Design; 213-627-4019; paradedesign.com

46

47

48

UNDER $2,500

14k yellow gold triangle necklace with 1.21 cts. t.w. lapis lazuli and 0.26 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,000; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

— FASHION/BRIDGE JEWELRY —

48 OVER $500

49

Rhodium-plated sterling silver cuff in hand-painted multicolored Italian enamel with pavé-set white lab-grown stones; $550; Belle Étoile; 415-626-9223, ext. 1001; belleetoilejewelry.com

49

UNDER $500

Sterling silver and rose gold–plated ring with mystic quartz center and CZ accents; $140; Elle Time & Jewelry; 469-221-0866; ellejewelry.com

117 — SILVER JEWELRY —

50

50

OVER $1,000

Large brushed sterling silver cuff featuring a black onyx triplet center stone and white diamond accents; $2,975; Meredith Marks; 888413-5077; meredithmarks.com

—

51

PERSONALIZED JEWELRY (BEADS, CHARMS, MESSAGING, INSPIRATIONAL)

—

$501–$1,000

53

Bangle bracelet in rose gold–plated silver; $571; Breuning; 678-3771673; breuning.us

51

UNDER $1,000

52

14k yellow gold necklace with 0.36 ct. t.w. pavé-set white diamonds; $990; Shy Creation; 213-623-8900; shycreation.com

UNDER $500

Sterling silver wave pendant with 6 ct. Caribbean blue topaz and 0.12 ct. t.w. white sapphires; $390; Frank Reubel Designs; 386-7616945; frankreubeldesigns.com

52

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the industry authority

119

MARCH / APRIL 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

NATURE, MADE The ring, which is priced at £910 ($1,130), was crafted at Chan’s London atelier. “The piece was first carved in wax, then transformed in silver and gold through lost-wax casting in three unique components,” she says.

Once cut, the gems were set by hand using prong and pavé settings.

GARDEN STATE

BUSY BEES The exquisitely assembled ring is forged in 18k gold vermeil, featuring 90 labgrown white pavé diamonds, hand-painted enamel, resin ivory, coral, and—at its center—a crystalline labgrown aquamarine.

EVOKING AN ENTIRE garden within the tiny confines of a ring is no easy feat. But designer Anabela Chan managed to conjure up Alice in Wonderland– esque grandeur with her whimsical Bumble Rose cocktail ring—a oneof-a-kind piece from her larger Secret Garden collection. The London-based designer wanted to make “an entire fairy tale in a ring,” she says, adding, “Our jewelry always tells stories.”

BEYOND BALANCE The biggest challenge of creating the piece—which Chan designed for “confident women with a sense of playfulness, glamour, and youth”—was achieving balance in form, scale, and weight while ensuring the oversize ring was ultimately comfortable to wear.

BY EMILI VESILIND

JCKONLINE.COM

ThE vAuLT

GOLD

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CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

MOST EXCELLENT

When Alyssa Mishcon was growing up, her grandmother had a favorite saying: “You should have one of everything and two of most.” That delightful wisdom finds its ultimate expression in Mishcon’s aptly named new jewelry collection, Two of Most.

Introduced in November 2016, the line features 14k gold rings and earrings that offer a bold ’80s-esque look for a subtle price (between $500 and $2,500 retail).

“Our customers find that the sleekness of the high-polish yellow gold makes it easy to layer in with their pavé or vintage pieces,” says Mishcon, a former LVMH Watch & Jewelry exec, “and that it’s quite flattering on every skin tone.” —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

Puzzle hoop earrings in high-polish 14k gold; $2,000; Two of Most; 855-984-1900; two-of-most.com

Large spike ring in high-polish 14k gold; $1,200 Puzzle ring in high-polish 14k gold; $2,250

HOT STOCK TIP

Petite Edge pendant in 18k gold with opal slice and 0.11 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,700, amyglaswand.com

A BIT ON EDGE Drawing on her background in fine arts and textile/costume design, New Yorker Amy Glaswand creates structured jewels with a subtly industrial vibe. Her newest line of Petite Edge 18k gold pendants and signet rings starts at $1,680, but boasts a big look because it features “stones that have a luminescent quality,” Glaswand says.

Shine on, you crazy opal. —VG

GET TO KNOW FREYWILLE JEWELRY. SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM

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To apply for firm membership today, email membership@ags.org , or call 866.805.6500 .

the vault

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— JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

RaCe tO thIN

Panthère de Cartier small timepiece in stainless steel, $4,000, cartier.com

Introduced in 1957, Piaget’s Altiplano collection, which takes its name from South America’s highest plateau, was heralded for its ultrathin movement, a 2 mm marvel known as 9P. For Altiplano’s 60th anniversary, the watchmaker has created a bevy of slender wristwatches— including a number of boutique and limited editions—that evoke the model’s midcentury heyday. From a rainbow of unisex pieces with vibrant patinated dials in graded shades of blue, green, and pink, to a high-jewelry version featuring a tourbillon, to two feminine watches with opal and turquoise dials, the celebratory timepieces are thin in profile but thick with style. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry timepiece in 41 mm 18k white gold case with hand-guilloché gold and enamel dial and diamonds on black alligator strap; $192,000; Piaget; 877-8-PIAGET; piaget.com

HOT STOCK TIP

Altiplano 34 mm hard stone dial timepiece in 18k rose gold with natural opal dial and diamonds on white alligator strap; $48,000

Altiplano 34 mm timepiece in 18k white gold with a pink dial and diamonds on pink alligator strap; $28,500

TOM FORD TO DEBUT WATCHES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/watches FOR THAT AND MORE.

Cat’S MeOW The Panthère de Cartier collection of timepieces reigned as Cartier’s sleek, feline ode to 1980s excess for 20 years until it was discontinued in 2003. This year, the icon is back—but it’s not all about extravagance.

Available in two sizes and nine different metals and/ or finish combinations, the collection includes a small model in steel priced at $4,000, a new entry for the brand. —VG JCKONlINe.COM

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PREMIER AT-SHOW DELIVERY DESTINATION

M O N DAY, J U N E 5 – T H U R S DAY, J U N E 8 , 2 0 1 7 TROPICANA LAS VEGAS, LAS VEGAS THE INDUSTRY’S #1 DESTINATION FOR AT-SHOW DELIVERY DURING LAS VEGAS JEWELRY WEEK!

C r e a t e d exc l u s i ve l y t o s e c u r e i n s t a n t i n v e n t o r y a n d t h e l a t e s t f a s h i o n t r e n d s r i g h t w h e n yo u n e e d t h e m . H e l d i n p a r t n e r s h i p w i t h J C K , e a c h J I S E xc h a n g e a t t e n d e e b a d g e a l s o i n c l u d e s e n t r y

i n t o J C K L a s Ve g a s a n d u n l i m i t e d e x p re s s s h u t t l e t ra n s p o r t a t i o n b e t we e n M a n d a l a y B ay a n d t h e Tro p i c a n a e a c h s h ow d ay.

REGISTER TO ATTEND OR EXHIBIT:

JISSHOW.COM/EXCHANGE

S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S E X C H A N G E IN PA RTN E RSH I P W IT H :

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THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz On the 2017 AGS Conclave speaker list: (from left) Jay Leno, Sugar Ray Leonard, and Scott McKain

L

LIGHTS, CAMERA, INTERACTION

ED BY KEYNOTE speakers Jay Leno and Sugar Ray Leonard, the program for this year’s American Gem Society Conclave, which takes place at the Loews Hollywood Hotel April 5–8, skews “a little less somber and a little more entertaining” than last year’s event in Washington, D.C., says AGS president-elect John Carter. But, as with all Conclaves, attendees can expect a conference dedicated to serious business topics.

“Our breakout sessions and networking events are better than ever,” says incoming AGS CEO Katherine Bodoh, highlighting an April 6 breakfast keynote by Scott McKain, a

The American Gem Society Conclave is going Hollywood this spring

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

customer-experience expert and author of 7 Tenets of Taxi Terry.

Still, Carter—who is bringing his wife, Ketti, and their two kids, 5-year-old daughter Lila and newborn son Leo, to Los Angeles with him—says the best part of Conclave is how many social opportunities it affords retailers.

“The single greatest benefit of attending Conclave is having a drink, going to a session, or just mingling with people in the hall,” says the owner of Jack Lewis Jewelers in Bloomington, Ill. “You’re not there to spend money or to sell.

You’re there to learn and to share.”

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There was no shortage of sun— and sparkle—at the JIS show in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., Jan. 27–29. But if you missed out, don’t despair: The next edition of JIS runs April 8–10, again at the Fort Lauderdale Convention Center.

1/ Earrings with 1.75 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $2,200; Zen Diamond; usa@ zendiamond.com; zendiamond.com 2/ Baguette flower trio ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds; $940; Majolie Collections; info@majoliecollections.com; majoliecollections.com 3/ Affection collection bangles in 18k rose and white gold with baguette diamonds and emeralds; $10,000–$12,500; Nigaam; sales@nigaam.com; nigaam.com 4/ Chrysoprase and clear quartz four-way convertible earrings in 14k gold–plated brass; $407; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com 5/ Earrings in 18k white gold with boulder opals, sapphires, and diamonds; $15,000; Royal India USA; 212-616-7661; royalindiausa.com

TAKE A TRIP TO FT. LAUDERDALE WITH JIS! APRIL 8-10, 2017 | “THE NICHE” A unique and intimate event for the jewelry industry featuring on-trend merchandise for the summer selling season. Featuring SALES BOOTCAMP @

with Shane Decker.

R E G I ST E R A N D G E T T H E M O ST U P TO DAT E S H OW I N FO R M AT I O N AT:

JISSHOW.COM/APRIL Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S TAY C O N N E C T E D #JISSHOW

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

tool time

REALITY SHOW

Try on rings from the comfort of your home with apps from Shop 4 Rings (above) and Tiffany & Co. (top).

The nascent field of augmented reality portends a future in which consumers can try on their jewels virtually

FROM LEFT: JOHNNYGREIG/GETTY, SHOP 4 RINGS, © TIFFANY & CO.

BY EMILI VESILIND

O

NE OF THE biggest hurdles in selling jewelry and watches online is the intangibility of e-commerce. Shoppers can’t touch and try on items, so they’re forced to rely on their imaginations.

But augmented reality (AR)— technology that superimposes graphics and other digitally created content on real-world imagery through a screen (camera, tablet, laptop)—has become a popular way

for brands to put the “try-on factor” back into the selling equation online.

Retailers are also using AR to add excitement and expediency to the in-store shopping experience—by experimenting with mirrors, screens, and dressing rooms that create ways for shoppers to play with product.

The national craze surrounding Pokémon Go last year was AR’s high point. But the technology is equally suited to retailing, since the user in any AR-powered tech is always a key component. Virtual reality, conversely, immerses users in wholly digital worlds. Apple CEO Tim Cook said last September on Good Morning America that he expects AR to eventually eclipse virtual reality in usage, since it’s inherently more social.

Augmented reality is reshaping the retail landscape in two major ways:

ENCOURAGING PRODUCT PLAY Add the element of play to any sales equation, and your chances of closing increase exponentially. That’s why in-store AR initiatives are also gaining

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steam. Makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Mirror gives shoppers the ability to choose from 10 different makeup looks, then have those looks seamlessly superimposed on their faces. A tool can also take a look from day to night, promoting similar products with darker pigmentation.

Dressing room mirrors—such as MemoryMirror and mirrors by AR firm Zugara, which has worked with Nordstrom and other retailers— function similarly: Shoppers select clothes and jewelry they’re interested in, then put them on virtually before pulling the real thing off the rack.

OFFERING VIRTUAL TRY-ONS Click on Sephora’s web-based AR tool and your face will pop up on the screen—only with long, cartoonish lashes where your normal ones used to be. From there, you can test-drive different shades of lipstick.

Fashion brands have been slower to adopt AR but are also getting in on the action. In February, Gap debuted a pilot AR app, DressingRoom by Gap, which lets users select one of five body types, then virtually try on clothes.

Bridal jewelry brands and retailers were among the first to experiment with AR try-on software. Mobile apps Shop 4 Rings, TryItOn Jewelry, Say Yes!, Hamilton Jewelers’ Put a Ring on It, and Tiffany & Co.’s Engagement Ring Finder, among others, let wouldbe buyers virtually place rings on their fingers, then share those images on social media and through email.

tool time

THE GOODS

MAGAZINE THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SERVING THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOR

148 YEARS

With original, authoritative, and compelling journalism, JCK magazine offers readers expanded coverage of the most important issues and style trends affecting their businesses.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

ŌURA There are zillions of smart devices on the market built to collect data on our sporting lives. But sleep—which is arguably more critical than exercise to maintaining good health—often gets short shrift. Enter Ōura, a smart ring developed by Finnish entrepreneurs that’s essentially a tracker for sleep. The data Ōura collects (in concert with its companion mobile app) produces a readiness score that hints at how spry we’re likely to be feeling on any given day. —EV

What we liked: The device’s sleep tracking is top-notch and can lead to more mindful choices, such as curbing evening computer screen time in the interest of an earlier bedtime. Users can track their total sleep time, sleep efficiency, how long it took them to doze off, hours in REM sleep, and even their circadian alignment— how closely their snooze jibed with the planet’s dark/light cycles.

What we didn’t like: The ring—which comes in glossy white and black ceramic zirconia, or a “stealth” matte black ceramic zirconia—is on the bulky side, though overall it’s less obtrusive and easier to wear than most bracelet fitness trackers. But its two- to three-day battery life is decidedly old school.

Best feature: It’s not a bracelet! Or even a cocktail ring! The ura doesn’t pass as a fashion piece and it doesn’t try to—it’s too big and looks vaguely medical. But its design is deeply pragmatic. Once it’s on, it doesn’t slip, slide around, or snag things. It simply does its job—without the drama. ($299 for glossy black or white, $499 for matte black; ouraring.com)

APP CHAT

meXtUReS How do small, creative brands keep their photography looking fresh on Instagram?

More and more, they’re experimenting with mobile photo editing apps. Mextures, an app that lets you layer cool effects over photographs, is a favorite with professional photographers, who dig the subtle, moody filters. The options for creativity are endless—among Mextures’ 150 filters are “analog light leaks” and “dusty vintage film scans.” You can even create and save your own effect “formulas” on the app, to use indefinitely. (Free in the App Store) —EV The Mextures app lets users layer multiple filters over photos to create highly artistic images.

NEW RICHLINE WEARABLES! SEE jckonline.com/topics/ technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

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+$, 4IPX # # # +VOF

-VYVSZ 4IPX #PPUI +VOF

USA

EUROPE

HONG KONG

AS I A

estore.mirastyle.com 606 S.Olive Street, Suite 2105, Los Angeles, CA90014, USA Tel: +1 213 622 5233

Fax: +1 213 622 5549

Email: info@mirastyle.com

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GN Diamond 800 Chestnut St. Philadelphia, PA 19107 Tel: 800-724-8810 Fax: 215-925-0217 Email: sales@gndiamond.com Website: gndiamond.com

CrownRing Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: info@crownring.com Website: crownring.com

We offer one of the largest selections of GIAcertified loose diamonds. White, bright diamond studs in all price points from 0.2 to 20 cts. t.w. Over 2,500 pairs.

Stud programs available. Classic tennis bracelets and Riviera necklaces.

CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest four defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.

I.Reiss

Centennial Mountings + Findings A Dana Augustine Inc. Company

45 N. Station Plaza, Suite 406 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-482-7900 Fax: 516-482-2400 Email: info@ireiss.com Website: ireiss.com

Tel: 770-499-8932 Fax: 770-499-8974 Email: order@centennialmountings.com Website: centennialmountings.com Website: danaaugustineinc.com

This scalloped edge matte and hammered-finish Vine cuff bracelet is handcrafted in 14k yellow gold and enhanced with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds.

Classic to luxury, Centennial showcases the largest collection of castings in North America, providing you with a vast selection of products, with emphasis on style, quality, service, and integrity! JCK Las Vegas Booth B61030

Lashbrook 131 E. 13065 South Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

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American Gem Society 8881 W. Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 866-805-6500 Fax: 702-255-7420 Email: lruggeroli@ags.org Website: ags.org The American Gem Society and AGS Laboratories are dedicated to consumer protection, ongoing gemological education, business ethics, and the highest standards of diamond grading.

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THE CARGO HOLD INC. P.O. Box 239 Charleston, SC 29402 Tel: 800-845-6964 Fax: 843-722-1377 Email: info@cargoholdinc.com Website: cargoholdinc.com The all-new CARGO® collection features fine and fashionable everyday sterling silver like this functional tassel necklace with adjustable smart bead. Focused on quality materials, unique designs, and affordable prices, CARGO® translates the exquisite into everyday.

Shy Creation 650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Shy Creation features the Manno collection with white, champagne, and black diamonds, handsomely set to create designs for today’s sophisticated man. Call today to become a brand partner.

Belle Étoile Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds’ scalloped eternity diamond bands are available in 18k white, yellow, and rose gold.

5901 Christie Ave., Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Belle Étoile has partnered with the Sea Turtle Conservancy to help sea turtles worldwide. To learn how our programs can help your traffic and sales flourish, contact us at 877-838-6728 or sales@belleetoilejewelry.com. Let’s grow together.

MARIKA Desert-Gold P.O. Box 12638 Hertzlia, Israel 4673315 Tel: 972-9-8854007 Fax: 972-9-8854010 Email: guy@mijbymarika.com Website: marikadesertgold.com This 14k gold handmade leaf collar necklace is set with 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds. MARIKA adores legends that unfold between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf. Tales of deserts and palms, spiced pleasures and thrilling sensations, sophisticated decor and symbology. The places of sheiks and caliphs, kings and queens.

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Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Website: phillipgavriel.com For spring 2017, Phillip Gavriel introduces a new pattern to his iconic Woven collection.

The Python Woven cuffs are crafted in sterling silver and a choice of pink, black, or blue sapphires. MSRP from $450

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Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Be the height of fashion in this stunning ring from Allison-Kaufman’s new Apex series. 0.2 ct. t.w. of dazzling diamonds are set in 14k white gold interlocked together with a high-polished solid gold band.

DA GOLD 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com Crafted in Italy, these 18k gold two-tone elegant and fashion-forward bangles are accessorized with 1.2 cts. t.w. of sparkling diamonds. Exquisite designs, artful workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of DA Gold.

AGS Laboratories

Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-944-0020 Website: effyjewelry.com Vibrant, genuine gemstones are the hallmark of Effy Jewelry, and our limited edition emerald ring from the Brasilica collection is no exception. Set in 14k white gold, brilliant white diamonds celebrate the natural beauty within this piece.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

americas Gold/ americas Diamonds

8917 W. Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 877-367-0288 Email: support@agslab.com Website: agslab.com

650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com

The American Gem Society Laboratories is the industry’s only nonprofit lab that is committed to consumer protection by providing reports based on the highest standards of diamond grading, with consistency and accuracy based on science.

Featuring two of our best sellers in men’s jewelry. Fancy cluster design cross pendant in 10k yellow gold with 1.75 cts. t.w. prong-set diamonds, available in three colors. Diamond square head 3-D design men’s ring with 3.25 cts. t.w. diamonds. Available in 10k and 14k gold.

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Arch Crown Inc.

Shy Creation

Custom molded tags for that special presentation! The look, the feel... everything about durable plastic molded relief tags says “exceptional quality” about the jewelry they’re attached to. Avoid unnecessary returns with tamper-resistant, secure-lock “Not Returnable If Removed” molded tags, ideal for internet sales! JCK Las Vegas Booth B64056

Shy Creation celebrates originality with our Kate collection, designed for everyday luxury with a modern twist. Call today to become a brand partner.

Hoover & Strong

Goldstein Diamonds

Hoover & Strong’s brand-new Bands catalog is coming out in the spring of 2017! More than 500 new bands will be introduced, including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-tone, and diamond band styles!

This one-of-a-kind platinum ring is highlighted by a 4.63 ct.

European-cut center diamond beautifully accented by multiple white diamonds and rich sapphires. Goldstein Diamonds is the industry leader in unique vintage and antique jewelry. MSRP: $60,000

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

Alamea Hawaii LLC

334 Seaside Ave., Suite 207 Honolulu, HI 96815 Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Email: e-support@alameahawaii.com Website: alameahawaii.com Alamea Hawaii always strives to design and create the best-quality jewelry inspired by the beauty and spirit of the tropics, with the largest tropical collection of larimar and pearl jewelry.

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650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

6900 E. Camelback Road, Suite 902 Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Tel: 800-237-0364 Email: info@goldsteindiamonds Website: goldsteindiamonds.com

Thomas Sabo

185 Greenwich St. New York, NY 10007 Tel: 347-507-8300 Email: lee@atelierpr.com Website: thomassabo.com Thomas Sabo’s mission is to create products that thrill and fascinate people. For this reason, there are five collections with endless styles: Whether classical, rock ’n’ roll, extravagant, or romantic—a radiant smile is guaranteed!

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S. Kashi 175 Great Neck Road, Suite 204 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 800-775-2744 Email: info@skashi.com Website: skashi.com Exquisite designs, top-notch workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of S. Kashi. Discover our world of magnificent jewelry at skashi.com.

Sterling Reputation 10116 W. Oakland Park Blvd.

Sunrise, FL 33351 Tel: 954-578-1880 Fax: 954-578-1414 Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Website: sterlingreputation.com This 925 sterling silver lariat bracelet with an 18k gold finish has a patented clasp to ensure a lifetime of use. Stones are AA quality CZ. Triple key price: $149

Gabriel & Co. Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more information.

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Gabriel & Co. engagement rings are meticulously designed to capture the magic and beauty of your singular love story. Our designs are so much more than metal and stone. They are abiding symbols of a shared commitment that deserves to be celebrated every day (Style ER12819R4W44JJ).

Stuller Inc. Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamondsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; oval beaded diamond bands are available in 18k white, yellow, and rose gold. Look great stacked!

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302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Need diamond peace of mind?

Large diamonds, consistent melee, or specialized servicesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;no matter the need, Stuller is your go-to diamond supplier. Selection, service, and speed are just a click or call away at stuller.com/diamonds or 800-877-7777.

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Costar Imports Inc. Le Vian¨ Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Le Vian® offers sweet innovation. Discover the latest styles in Blues™, the 2017 Color Trend of the Year, like this Deep Sea Blue Topaz™ ring in Strawberry Gold® set with natural Chocolate Diamonds® and Vanilla Diamonds®.

TD Retail Card Services 1000 MacArthur Blvd.

Mahwah, NJ 07430 Tel: 551-579-6686 Fax: 201-818-6457 Email: uspartnerships@td.com TD Retail Card Services, a division of TD Bank N.A., provides jewelers with highimpact private-label credit card programs designed to grow sales and inspire customer loyalty. To learn more, visit us at tdrcs.com.

Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 888-726-7827 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This vintage-style engagement ring is designed to hold a 6-by-6 cushion or princess stone. Ring: 0.45 ct. t.w., $2,550; band: 0.2 ct. t.w., $1,125 (Style R12184).

Available for round or oval halo (Styles R12052/R12051).

Artistry LTD 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Celeste is Artistry’s new Star collection in 14k yellow gold and diamonds.

Dangling Y necklace with 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: $1,020. Star studs with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: $1,350.

Call for our 2017 catalog.

TritonRAW 154 W. 14th St. New York, NY 10011 Tel: 800-221-3232 Fax: 800-332-9344 Email: tritonsales@fgoldman.com Website: tritonraw.com TritonRAW presents the ultimate expression of form, combining minimalist design with luxurious materials and a refined sensibility.

Triton’s signature Tungsten Carbide—in its elemental state—forms the foundation of TritonRAW, shaped into understated yet essential jewelry with iconic style.

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Beverley K 7777 Alvarado Road, Suite 719 La Mesa, CA 91942 Tel: 619-465-4789 Email: info@beverleyk.com Website: beverleyk.com Beverley K offers stunning hand-perfected Art Deco, vintage, floral, and band jewelry designs, along with easy-to-purchase options, highturnover-rate pieces, top-notch support services, and a new branding program. It’s about love, life, and legacy.

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Christopher Designs 50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side, the difference is truly clear.

Andréa Candela Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Lazo de Colores is inspired by the fabulous bows seen on presents during special occasions. Delicate and subtly glitzy, our bows symbolize special ties, loyalty, and love. This collection comes in peridot (pictured), blue topaz, and citrine.

The Royal Chain Group 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com Royal Chain’s adjustable Friendship bracelet collection features this silver woven-style bracelet. Other styles available in 14k gold as well.

MSRP from $49

Ashi Diamonds 18 E. 48th St., 14th floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-622-2744 Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com Ashi Lovebright—the new halo!

How do I grow my diamond bridal and fashion business, maximize inventory turns, improve margins, increase profits, and not get Blue-Niled while I expand my customer base and penetrate new markets? The answer is Ashi Lovebright! To learn how top retailers build their business with Ashi, call or visit our website.

House of Baguettes 580 Fifth Ave., Suite 224 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-840-0042 Fax: 212-840-0228 Email: jsengul@aol.com Website: houseofbaguettes.com House of Baguettes offers a distinctive, diversified, and original line of fine jewelry.

Superior craftsmanship is evident in every detail, from stone selection to exquisite finish. Serving leading retail jewelers internationally.

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Midas Chain Tel: 877-643-2765 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com The 14k gold Choker collection by Midas Chain is available in an array of beautiful designs. This railroad-style choker is creatively designed with an adjustable lock that will satisfy every customer’s unique style and layering preferences. MSRP: $465

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com

Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured is a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Sarine

Website: sarine.com

MAGAZINE

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

BE PART OF THE TWO BIGGEST ISSUES OF THE YEAR

Reach JCK Show attendees as they are getting ready for the show through the annual MAY Fashion issue of JCK, and gain valuable exposure to retailers right when they’re looking to buy through the JUNE JCK Show issue.

MAY ISSUE CLOSE IS 3/28/17 — JUNE ISSUE CLOSE IS 4/25/17

Sarine Profile™ is a powerful sales platform that offers the consumer instant access to a diamond’s unique information.

View the diamond in precise detail on multiple channels, via a compelling, interactive experience.

Martin Flyer

70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Fax: 212-768-0124 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com Martin Flyer has been designing jewelry since 1945, and we are considered experts within our industry.

Today, the third-generation family business continues the Flyer tradition of providing customers with the highest-quality products, competitive prices, and first-class service.

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CLASSIFIEDS

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CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

REPS WANTED

SERVICES TO TRADE

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

SALES REPS WANTED

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING

MARS Fine Jewelry is looking for highly motivated

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION

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Our line offers extensive styles, competitive pricing, pre-packaged programs, and custom design services. Proven sales ability is a must, as well as current relationships with high-end independent retailers. Travel Required. Non-conflicting lines OK. Several US territories available.

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

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Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

JEWELRY MODELS

SALES REPS WANTED – PRIMA NEW YORK Manufacturers of Fine Bridal and Fashion Jewelry.

Looking for SEASONED SALES REPS with established relationships.

Send resume to: info@primanewyork.com Or call 888-774-6211

For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED 30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following.

Excellent commission.

Must have established customer base.

Non-Conflicting lines okay.

Major Trade Show Presence.

Resume to: independantreps@JCKonline.com

SALES REPRESENTATIVES FREYWILLE — a classic European jeweler, known for combining the aesthetic of fine art and historical culture with the elegance of hand crafted fire enamel — is currently seeking experienced Sales Representatives to expand our wholesale business in North America.

For all inquiries please email: official.partner@freywille.com.

SALES REPS WANTED Crescendo Jewelry is seeking dynamic outside sales professionals in several U.S and Canadian Territories. Candidates will have a proven track record of success serving independent retailers.

We offer a competitively priced line of Bridal, Ladies Rings, Gents Rings, Pendants and Earrings.

Please email resumes to contact@crescendojewelry.com.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engra ●

Please email resume to: art@marsjewelry.com

JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems!

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617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices.

Star Jeweler Supplies, Inc. 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 fax: 212-941-8034 starjewelersupply@gmail.com www.starfindings.com

ADVERTISING

INDEX AGS Laboratories pg. 38 Website: agslab.com Email: support@agslab.com AGTA pg. 118 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alamea Hawaii LLC pg. 113 Website: alameahawaii.com Email: e-support@alameahawaii.com Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992

Belle Étoile pg. 105 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728 Beverley K pg. 31 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789 Christopher Designs pg. 99 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

Alex Velvet pg. 112 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900

Costar Imports pg. 30 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR

Allison Kaufman Company pg. 109 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908

CrownRing pg. 47 Website: crownring.com Email: info@crownring.com Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464

American Gem Society pg. 121 Website: ags.org Email: membership@ags.org Toll-Free: 866-805-6500 americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 33 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618 American Grown Diamonds pg. 25 Website: americangrowndiamonds.com/jck2017 Email: info@americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057 Andréa Candela pg. 103 Website: andreacandela.com Toll-Free: 888-314-5998 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 115 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 Artco Group pg. 114 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820 Artistry Ltd. pg. 28 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Ashi Diamonds pg. 9 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI

JCKONLINE.COM

Effy pg. Gatefold Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

House of Baguettes pg. 51, 52 Website: houseofbaguettes.com Toll-Free: 800-603-1550 Intuitions by Royal Chain pg. 2-3 Website: intuitionsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 JCK Events pg. 19, 20-21, 54-55 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 53 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 124, 126, 129 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 49 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr JÖrg Heinz pg. 110 Website: joergheinz.com

ELLE pg. 48 Website: ellejewelry.com

Korite pg. 32 Website: korite.com Toll-Free: 800-917-2228

Future Designs Lighting pg. 44 Website: futuredesigns.us Email: futuredesigns1@hotmail.com Toll-Free: 800-326-4256

Lashbrook pg. 45 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388

Gabriel & Co. pg. 101 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show pg.43 Website: vegasantiquejewelry.com

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Le Vian® pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

GLDA pg. 123 Website: glda.com GN Diamond pg. 17, 18 Website: gndiamond.com Toll-Free: 800-724-8810 Goldstein Diamonds pg. 6-7 Website: goldsteindiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-237-0364 Gravure Commitment

by Atlantic pg. 108 Website: gravurecommitment.com Hoover & Strong pg. 60 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Lika Behar Collection pg. 37 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200 Low Cost Luxury pg. 59 Website: lcluxury.com Email: wgd@lowcostleader.com Phone: 713-995-7033 Fax: 713-995-0756

138

MARIKA Desert-Gold pg. 35 Website: marikadesertgold.com Email: guy@mijbymarika.com Phone: 972-9-8854007

S. Kashi pg. 13 Website: skashi.com Email: info@skashi.com Toll-Free: 800-775-2744

Martin Flyer pg. 11 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899

Salesone LLC pg. 40 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537

Midas pg. 27 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Shy Creation pg. 4-5 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Mioro pg. 64 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 107 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Peter Lam pg. 67 Website: peterlam.com.hk Phillip Gavriel pg. 56 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 23 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rajola pg. 70 Website: rajola.it Email: rajola@rajola.it Rand & Paseka pg. 36 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 95 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 117 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Sterling Reputation pg. 111 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 41 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 TD Retail Card Services pg. 42 Website: tdrcs.com/jck Toll-Free: 866-729-7072 ext. 3603 Thomas Sabo pg. 69 Website: thomassabo.com Email: lee@atelierpr.com Phone: 347-507-8300 Thorsten Jewelry pg. 26, 61 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com TritonRAW pg. Back Cover Website: tritonraw.com Email: tritonsales@fgoldman.com Toll-Free: 800-221-3232 Umicore pg. 46 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Wilkerson pg. 29 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 World’s Gold & Diamonds pg. 59 Website: lcluxury.com Email: wgd@lowcostleader.com Phone: 713-995-7033 Fax: 713-995-0756

Copyright ©2107 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 147 No. 7 (1070-0242) is published 7 times a year in January/ February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information.

Please reference page number listed for more information.

MARCH / APRIL 2017

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

ONCE UPON A TIME

WE PAUSE TO appreciate the elegant timepiece a president wore to his inaugural ball in 1961: a 2 mm Omega Ultra Thin watch made of 18k gold, set on a black leather strap, and inscribed with the phrase President of the United States John F. Kennedy from his friend Grant. In a letter to the giver, Florida businessman and later Ambassador to Ireland Grant Stockdale, first lady Jacqueline Kennedy called it “the thinnest most elegant wristwatch” and said that, upon receiving it, JFK “promptly took off the chunky little one” she had given him. Omega acquired the historic timepiece for its museum in Biel, Switzerland, for $350,000 at auction in 2005. —KRISTIN YOUNG JCKONLINE.COM

PAUL SCHUTZER/THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION/GETTY

JFK embarks on the Camelot era in an ultrathin wristwatch befitting the elegance of the occasion

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

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ICONIC UNDERSTATED REFINED

RAW GOLD COLLECTION

Raw Matte Finish tungsten layered with 18K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Band

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©2017 Triton RAW

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