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SUMMER 2025

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74 GLITTERING PICKS FROM RETAILERS, EDITORS & INFLUENCERS

SUMMER 2025

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COVER

148 DIAMOND

Fancy colors, mixed shapes, pavé settings, cluster designs— no matter your style, there’s a jewel to match your sparkle. PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN & REBECCA

SPECIAL REPORT: COLORED STONES 100

THE RIGHTEOUS GEMSTONES

134

From jade to paraiba to chrysoberyl and beyond, these are the year’s hottest rocks and must-buy hues (don’t miss out on Mocha Mousse!).

122

BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

110

UNDER THE TUCSON SUN At the Arizona gem shows, it was clear that a lack of rough is driving colored stone prices ever higher. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

138 SUMMER 2025

MODEL: STEPHEN & REBECCA; DROP EARRINGS WITH 5.1 CTS. T.W. DIAMONDS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $17,500, GABRIEL & CO., 212-519-1420, GABRIELNY.COM; EARRINGS WITH 6.35 CTS. T.W. MARQUISE-CUT DIAMONDS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $32,479, FACET BARCELONA, 212-302-8200, FACETBARCELONA.COM; FOR REMAINING JEWELRY CREDITS, SEE P. 113. LAS VEGAS: LAS VEGAS GRAND PRIX; STILL LIFE: SCOTT SEMLER.

DAYS

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122 30

CONTENTS

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FEATURES

110

122

GILT TO LAST Customers will wear these super-special gold jewels—cool chains, hot collars, sinuous snakes, and more—for years to come. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SEMLER

128

It may be the Year of the Snake, but don’t forget about the cats. From fauna to flora, these are the fashion (and jewelry) trends to watch next season. BY VENESSA LAU

134

STRIP TEASER Our Sin City correspondent has put together plenty of ideas to make the most of your time at JCK Las Vegas 2025. BY MATT VILLANO

138

A CENTURY OF JEWELRY At the 2025 JCK and Luxury shows, you’ll find echoes of the past 100 years of design reimagined for present-day buyers and future collectors. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

144

144 128 SUMMER 2025

LET’S GET PHYSICAL A clutch of luxury jewelry brands have opened brick-and-mortar locations here, there, and everywhere. Is the traditional retail model having a renaissance? BY AMY ELLIOTT

148

2025 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS: THE WINNERS

100

Diamonds are a retailer’s best friend! Congratulations to Norman Silverman on its grand prize– winning yellow diamond collar and to all of this year’s victors.

(TOP) PHOTOGRAPH BY SCOTT SEMLER. STUDIO LAVENDER JADE DROP EARRINGS WITH HAND-CARVED LAVENDER JADE, EMERALDS, SAPPHIRES, AND DIAMONDS IN 18K YELLOW GOLD, $22,000, LAGOS, 877-925-4305, LAGOS.COM

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CONTENTS

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DEPARTMENTS

46 48 52 55 59

62 64 67 68 74

COVER LOOK JEWEL BOX 10 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

De Beers’ new Botswana deal and its possible sale

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Rosena Sammi of The Jewelry Edit RETAIL THERAPY How are you navigating the price of gold? STORE WE ADORE Don Purcell in Atlanta

THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE Stephanie Gottlieb RED CARPET The Wicked women at the Oscars

JCK ASKS... Rachel Quinn

169 THE VAULT 170 BRIDAL 172 SILVER 175 TOOL TIME

The ABCs of POS systems. Plus: the Rare ring.

180 THE WAY WE WORE

Shirley MacLaine in swoonworthy Harry Winston jewels in What a Way to Go! SUMMER 2025

170

68 SAMMI: PHOTOGRAPH BY GABRIELA HERMAN; MINI CANDY BUTTON PENDANT WITH BLUE TOPAZ AND DIAMONDS IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $2,290, STEPHANIE GOTTLIEB

36 42

The Essence of Timeless Design 18 karat - platinum - fine gems

Celebrating 40+ Years Excellence WWW.JYESCORP.COM | 415.621.8880

SEE us at JCK LUX 303 WINNER/FINALIST OF THE JCK JEWELER’S CHOICE AWARDS SINCE 2009

Cover Look

Midjourney earrings with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $8,000; Ashi Couture; couture@ ashidiamonds.com; ashidiamonds.com

FANCY FEAT

Phoenix Wing cuff with 3.85 cts. t.w. lab-grown hexagonal mixed-cut and round diamonds in recycled 18k yellow gold; price on request; Unsaid; 917-5532516; unsaid.com

Meta Flora bracelet with 18.35 cts. t.w. lab-grown radiant, round, pear, and trillion diamonds; price on request; Unsaid

Cushions and ovals and Asschers— oh my! Your dream diamond jewelry awaits at Luxury and JCK. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN & REBECCA Stylist: SORAYA DAYANI/ART DEPARTMENT Hair: THOMAS DUNKIN/ART DEPARTMENT Makeup: DEANNA HAGAN/ STATEMENT ARTISTS/111 SKIN Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ ART DEPARTMENT Model: ASTRID BAARSMA/ NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT Top: DION LEE

SUMMER 2025

Kate Croissant bangle with 1.92 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; price on request; Shy Creation; info@ shycreation.com; shycreation.com

The Solene ring with 6.04 ct. modified brilliant fancy yellow diamond, 2.07 cts. t.w. Cadillac-shape Vanilla Diamonds, and 0.43 ct. t.w. round Vanilla Diamonds in platinum and 18k Honey Gold; $385,848; Le Vian; 516-466-7202; levian.com

Blush Mosaic necklace with 51.38 cts. t.w. natural fancy colored diamonds in 18k yellow and rose gold; $1,400,000; Joanna Mei for Grandview Klein Diamonds; 212-7194800; gkdg.com JCKONLINE.COM

Cover Look

18k yellow gold necklace with 4.88 cts. t.w. round melee diamonds; $80,000; Rahaminov; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

STAY GOLD Snakes, collars, chain links, and more: the jewels destined to become contemporary classics. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SEMLER Prop Stylists: EMILY & TONY MULLIN/ HELLO ARTISTS

COLOR CRUSH

High prices and low supply: a Tucson Gem Week tale… mint tourmaline and blue jade: the year’s hot buys. Plus: 28 multihued new jewels.

Pin with 27.4 ct. Australian boulder opal and 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,995; Parlé; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Ring with 3.96 ct. oval paraiba, 1.15 cts. t.w. round paraiba, 0.4 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, round diamonds, and 0.41 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum; $122,223; Yael; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT SEMLER Prop Stylists: EMILY & TONY MULLIN/ HELLO ARTISTS

SUMMER 2025

Not pictured: Drop earrings with 16.7 cts. t.w. Afghani mint green tourmaline and 0.49 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $90,100; Aaron Henry Designs; info@aaronhenry.com; aaronhenry.com JCKONLINE.COM

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Capture strength in silence, elegance in action in the Patient Mantis.

SUMMER 2025

the industry authority

10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

JEWEL BOX 1

GOLD Skull pendant in 20k yellow gold with 1.22 cts. t.w. diamonds; $16,750 (chain sold separately); Buddha Mama; elizabeth@ theeabproject. com; buddha mama.com

Gold selling for $3,200 per ounce had long seemed like a crazy dream—yet in April, the yellow metal surpassed that once-unimaginable benchmark. By any measure, bullion has had an incredible run lately, with its price jumping 26% during 2024, thanks to central banks beefing up their gold reserves and investors looking for a safe haven amid global instability. For the moment, analysts don’t see the gold rush ending anytime soon; in a recent note, Bank of America commodity strategist Francisco Blanch said that $3,500-an-ounce gold was “not unthinkable.”

Kendrick Lamar at the Super Bowl; (l.) Rahaminov’s Half Moon Cut Diamond Sunset pin, one of the two he wore

Does anyone even remember who won the 2024 Super Bowl? (The Philadelphia Eagles, FYI.) We remember the jewelry, though. Halftime performer Kendrick Lamar blinged out his baseball cap with a pair of Rahaminov diamond brooches worth a cool $100K and a chest full of insane diamond chains by Eliantte. Performing the national anthem in his native New Orleans, Grammy-winning pianist and singer Jon Batiste accessorized with two Schlumberger by Tiffany Bird on a Rock brooches. And in the broadcast booth, seven-time Super Bowl champ Tom Brady wore a $740,000 Jacob & Co. Caviar Tourbillon watch covered in yellow sapphires. Apologies to Eagles quarterback Jalen Hurts, but these guys were the real MVPs. SUMMER 2025

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LAMAR: ASHLEY LANDIS/AP

SPORTS

LABS

Earrings with 6.37 cts. t.w. pearshape paraibatype tourmaline, 0.84 ct. t.w. kite diamonds, 0.64 ct. t.w. round Paraíbas, and 1.07 cts. t.w. round diamonds in platinum; $320,000; Omi Privé; 626-3314533; omiprive.com

The International Gemological Institute was founded in Belgium in 1975 as a small Antwerp lab that often played second fiddle to GIA. But when man-made diamonds came on the scene, IGI was among the first grading institutions to treat them like regular gemstones, and its business received a huge boost. In 2018, China’s Fosun Group purchased the lab for $108.8 million; five years later, the company, now based in India, was bought by Blackstone Group for $569.65 million. Blackstone took IGI public in November, amid India’s red-hot market for initial public offerings. At press time, IGI’s market cap was $2.1 billion—roughly comparable to Signet’s.

SAKS: WDSTOCK/ISTOCK/GETTY

SHOWS

The ever-rising gold price. Exorbitant and indiscriminate tariffs (as of press time, at least). With such big issues hovering over the jewelry industry like a specter, it’s easy to miss the beauty and artistry in our midst, lining the shelves of retail stores and, of course, on display during Jewelry Week. Whether you’re going to Vegas for a couple days or for the entire week, take a few moments to discover new brands and revisit longtime favorites. Give an age-old stone a fresh perspective. (Jade! Trust us.) And take solace in the fact that the jewelry trade, ancient and eternal, will prevail.

RIVALS

Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus were once fierce competitors. Now they’re corporate partners. In January, Saks Global paid $2.7 billion for Neiman’s (and subsidiary Bergdorf Goodman) in a deal financed by junk bonds and an eclectic group of investors, including Amazon, Salesforce, and the Abu Dhabi Investment Council. The marriage appears to have gotten off to a bumpy start: Shortly after the deal was consummated, about 5% of Saks corporate employees received pink slips, and vendors howled when Saks Global CEO Marc Metrick sent out a memo saying certain payments would be delayed. Skeptics noted that both stores had issues pre-merger; combining the two hasn’t made them go away. SUMMER 2025

10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box

Papillon earrings with tsavorite, citrine, diamonds, and green cathedral enamel in 18k white gold; $43,500; Jacob & Co.; 212-719-5887; jacobandco.shop

Two of the industry’s most powerful women—Signet CEO Gina Drosos and GIA president and CEO Susan Jacques—announced their retirements this past year. Drosos stepped down as Signet’s head after leading the retailer for seven years. (Former PetSmart CEO J.K. Symancyk took over the jewelry giant in November.) At press time, Jacques was still heading GIA, but she plans to retire by the end of 2025, after 11 years at the helm. A search committee is currently hunting for her successor. What will these hardworking executives do now that they’re leaving their big jobs behind? Drosos told JCK she planned to let the “dust settle for a little bit” and squeeze in a few extra rounds of golf and some skiing. At press time, she was in India—on vacation.

Industry powerhouses Gina Drosos and Susan Jacques

SUMMER 2025

TV The spectacular Thai setting featured in Season 3 of HBO’s The White Lotus is a scene-stealer, but among jewelry and watch lovers, even the palm-studded coast of Koh Samui pales in comparison with the show’s ultraluxe accessories, including lavish pieces by David Webb and Jacob & Co. Both brands say they jumped at the chance to be featured on the satirical murder-mystery series. “We’ve always been fans of the show,” Levi Higgs, head of archives and brand heritage for David Webb, tells JCK. “Not just for its sharp social commentary, but for the way it seamlessly blends satire with pop culture.” Eastern spirituality meets Western excess—what could go wrong? JCKONLINE.COM

DROSOS: COURTESY OF SIGNET; JACQUES: RUPERT RAMSEY/BFA.COM; EARRINGS: COURTESY OF JACOB & CO.

LEADERS 6

DIAMONDS The tassels ultimately sold for nearly double their pre-sale estimate.

Jerusalem bracelet with 84 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $66,150; Grown Brilliance; 877-4769627; grownbrilliance.com

ANTIQUES One of history’s most famous jewels was the necklace that helped ruin the reputation of Marie Antoinette. (The French queen was accused of refusing to pay for the pricey piece; she was later vindicated, but the “Affair of the Necklace” tarnished the Bourbon monarchy.) According to legend, the notorious jewel was broken up, its gems sold off piece by piece. On Nov. 13, Sotheby’s Geneva auctioned a pair of tassels with some 330 cts. of diamonds, some of which are said to have been part of the infamous jewel. It’s safe to say bidders lost their heads. After seven minutes, the lot sold for $4.8 million.

Over the past few years, the lab-grown diamond market has seen dramatic expansion, with the entrance of dozens of growers and retailers. Predictably, that growth has been followed by a sharp contraction. In the past year, three high-profile growers—WD Lab Grown, Diam Concept, and Lusix—filed for bankruptcy, though buyers scooped up the assets of the latter two. E-tailer Grown Brilliance also purchased a rival online seller, Clean Origin, as well as U.S. grower Aether Diamonds. All these gobbled-up companies had one thing in common: They weren’t based in India, which appears to be solidifying its position as the world’s lab-grown diamond hub.

The Land-Dweller comes in 40 mm in platinum (pictured), 40 mm in Oystersteel and white gold, and 36 mm in Everose gold and diamonds.

TASSELS: © SOTHEBY’S 2024; WATCH: COURTESY OF ROLEX

WATCHES For a company known for its commitment to incremental change, Rolex did something downright revolutionary in April at Watches and Wonders Geneva: It introduced a new collection, the Land-Dweller, its first new watch since 2012. A slimmer, integrated bracelet style inspired by two historic Rolex designs, the model is equipped with a Dynapulse escapement, hailed as more robust and efficient than the traditional Swiss lever escapement, and a clear sign that the juggernaut of the Swiss watch industry means business when it comes to precision. “The takeaway,” analyst Oliver Müller tells JCK, “is that chronometry is the turf of the future for the A brands to differentiate themselves.” JCKONLINE.COM

SUMMER 2025

from the editor

T Helios pendant in 18k yellow gold with 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,695; Doves by Doron Paloma; 516-504-1346; dovesjewelry.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SUMMER 2025

I FELT THE turbulence at the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva in early April, when President’s Trump’s “Liberation Day” tariffs sent Swiss watchmakers, not to mention the entire world economic order, into a tizzy. One moment, we were all obsessed with Rolex and its astonishing new Land-Dweller collection (see page 45). And the next, we were wondering if anyone would ever want to buy a Swiss watch again. There’s no telling what news will transpire by the time you read this issue, but I’m sure we can all agree: We’re living through a strange, destabilizing time. As we prepare for next month’s JCK show, the only thing we know for sure is that the trade will go on. That certainty is reflected in this issue—our annual preshow guide to the year’s prevailing colors, styles, and trends— through a series of features that provide important lessons about how to navigate the choppy economic waters of 2025. The first lesson, as described in contributor Amy Elliott’s “Let’s Get Physical” feature on page 144, may be obvious: The all-digital retail future we envisioned during the pandemic hasn’t panned out. Instead, jewelers are rushing to open stores on America’s high streets in a testament to the timeless allure of brick and mortar. In “Gilt to Last” (page 122), a still life celebrating the year’s best gold jewels, we assess the forever appeal of yellow gold—and the inescapable fact that designers are leaning into the precious metal, despite its record-breaking price.

You could say the same thing about colored stones. In “Under the Tucson Sun” (page 110), my recap of this year’s gem shows in the Arizona desert, I note that ever-rising gem prices have not produced a corresponding decline in buyer interest. On the contrary, designers remain besotted with color (see “The Righteous Gemstones” on page 100), and are more open-minded than ever about where to source it (Guatemala for jade? Yes, please!). It’s a reminder that world events have always shaped the industry—just turn to “A Century of Jewelry” on page 138, a look at the defining styles of the past 100 years and the JCK Las Vegas exhibitors who are reinterpreting them for present and future generations. Speaking of Vegas, be sure to consult “Strip Teaser” (page 134), contributor Matt Villano’s essential guide to the restaurants, bars, and entertainment you won’t want to miss during Jewelry Week. The spots that top my list are both located at The Venetian Resort: Nomikai, a Japanese restaurant that’s “one part sushi counter and one part speakeasy,” and Gjelina, the first Sin City outpost of L.A.’s farm-to-table hot spot. I’d be remiss not to mention the winners of our annual Jewelers’ Choice Awards (page 148). Congrats to Norman Silverman, whose beguiling 18k gold collar laden with more than 72 cts. of fancy yellow diamonds earned the 2025 grand prize—and reminded us of one indisputable truth: Jewelers can never go wrong with gold. Bank on it! JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: PHOTOGRAPH BY JULIA GOMELSKY

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SUMMER 2025

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OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS Serpenti Aeterna in 18k rose gold with diamonds; price on request; Bulgari; 800-285-4274; bulgari.com

ZONA ROSA

Tambour Convergence in 37 mm 18k rose gold case; $33,500; Louis Vuitton; 866-VUITTON; louisvuitton.com

What JCK ’s Victoria Gomelsky is loving this month

Ingenieur Automatic 35 in 35 mm red gold case; $37,500; IWC Schaffhausen; 800-4329330; iwc.com

“Rose, pink, or red—however you describe this vintage-style shade of gold, it’s the metal of the moment.” —Victoria Gomelsky, JCK editor-in-chief JCKONLINE.COM

Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in 38 mm rose gold case with diamonds; $44,625; Hermès; 800-4414488; hermes.com

PORTRAIT: PHOTOGRAPH BY JULIA GOMELSKY

Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in 18k pink gold case on Milanese bracelet; $41,300; JaegerLeCoultre; 877-552-1833; jaeger-lecoultre.com

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

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Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL

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News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

JCK Advertising Sales Director RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 randi.gewertz@rxglobal.com

Contributing Editor & Social Media Manager BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

JCK Associate Publisher PATRICIA CARTWRIGHT 203-840-5447 patricia.cartwright@rxglobal.com

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Contributing Editors KAREN DYBIS / kdybis@gmail.com AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com

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Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors KATHY HENDERSON, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors JASON KIM, STEPHEN LEWIS, KENJI TOMA, JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, YULIA GORBACHENKO, MIKAEL SCHULZ, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, PATRICIA HEAL, JAMES WOJCIK, SCOTT SEMLER, GABRIELA HERMAN, NICOLE LaMOTTE, KEN GUTMAKER, MARK LUND, BALL & ALBANESE, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / RX Jewelry Portfolio SARIN BACHMANN 203-957-0988 sarin.bachmann@rxglobal.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L ADVERTISING BRAZIL/EUROPE/ MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI 48-22-401-70-01 fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek.kraczko@rxglobal.com INDIA QUINNY D’SOUZA 91-22-6771-6607 cell 91-99-8714-2695 quinny.dsouza@rxglobal.com ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 randi.gewertz@rxglobal.com THAILAND CHUMPIA (AOR) SAITHAN 66-2-686-7357 saithan.chum@ reedtradex.co.th CHINA/HONG KONG/ INDONESIA/JAPAN/ KOREA/MALAYSIA/ PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ TAIWAN/VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN 852-2366-1106 fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

JCK SHOW & LUXURY JCK Event Manager JENNIFER HOPF 203-957-1413 jennifer.hopf@rxglobal.com JCK Sales Director LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808 lars.parker-myers@rxglobal.com Marketing Director MJ McGRATH 203-945-9073 mj.mcgrath@rxglobal.com Special Events & Conference Manager OLIVIA LAGUN 475-266-9475 olivia.lagun@rxglobal.com Luxury Event Director MEGHAN MARGEWICZ 203-820-0127 meghan.margewicz@rxglobal.com

Key Accounts Manager JENNA RAMIREZ Currents, Gallery level 2, Plumb Club 475-544-4178 jenna.ramirez@rxglobal.com Account Executive ASHA CHOWDHURY Essentials & Tech, Gallery level 1, Retail Innovation, Natural Diamonds, Lab-Grown 203-613-0782 asha.chowdhury1@rxglobal.com Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY First Look, GEMS 203-840-5820 barbara.murray@rxglobal.com Account Executive AMANDA DIAMOND Fashion Bridge, Bridal, Clockwork, Design Collective 203-840-5419 amanda.diamond@rxglobal.com

Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury 203-832-7929 jessica.audet@rxglobal.com

Retail Account Manager MONALISA DePINA 203-722-8963 monalisa.depina@rxglobal.com

International Sales Manager ANA CROSBY 203-840-5305 anamaria.crosby@rxglobal.com

Marketing Manager MARGARET BLANCO 203-722-0272 margaret.blanco@rxglobal.com

W L JCK editor-in-chief ictoria Gomelsky and news director ob Bates answer the burning questions on every jewelry industry professional’s mind— every other Wednesday. ach month, listen to a news episode and an interview episode featuring an industry expert.

Social Diary

GEM AWARDS

WINNING SEASON

The annual Jewelers of America Gem Awards celebrate the industry’s best in retail, media, design, and more. Cheers to the 2025 honorees!

Lifetime achievement honoree John Green with his gemologist and jeweler wife, Norma Jean

Chanel’s Olivier KesslerGay accepts the brand’s high jewelry excellence award

Gem winner Beth Hutchens of FoundRae with fellow design nominees Selim Mouzannar and Sophie Bille Brahe

Yael Reinhold Lipnik and Mildred Marcano Abrams of Gem-winning retailer Reinhold Jewelers with Ben Bridge Jeweler’s Lisa Bridge

“Baby’s first red carpet,” quipped designer-retailer Viviana Langhoff of Chicago’s Adornment + Theory.

2024’s media excellence winner Tanya Dukes with 2025’s, Sam Broekema (Only Natural Diamonds)

SUMMER 2025

Brynn Waller (aka @dimepiece), JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky, fashion journalist Lynn Yaeger, and designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey

Style-setting jewelry designers Lorraine West and Bliss Lau Frank Everett of Sotheby’s in a Belperron brooch

JCKONLINE.COM

1–4, 6–7, 9: MATT BORKOWSKI/BFA; 5, 8: BART GORIN PHOTOGRAPHY

The Perfect Hue, The Perfect Cut A Gem for Everyone. Ov r 00 Y ar

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For over 17 generations, we’ve helped customers find the perfect gems. We currently work with many of the world’s top jewelry designers, and take pride in providing exceptional customer service and competitive prices. We source our rough stones directly from mines worldwide, and offer a large selection of inventory in many cuts, shapes and sizes. Each gemstone is cut in one of our facilities utilizing SPB’s high standard of excellence in color, cut, polish, and brilliancy.

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the industry authority

SUMMER 2025

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS DE BEERS HAS A BOTSWANA DEAL. NOW IT NEEDS AN OWNER.

Two rough diamonds from Botswana

T COURTESY OF DE BEERS GROUP

BY ROB BATES

HE FIRST FEW months of 2025 have been a roller coaster for De Beers Group. The diamond giant inked a long-delayed deal with its largest partner while coping with declining sales and profits and an unhappy owner that wants to offload it. In early February, De Beers announced it had reached a 10-year deal with the government of Botswana, following five years of often-stormy negotiations. De Beers’ contract renewal talks are generally private affairs. But its deliberations with Botswana were unusually public and contentious, as the country’s president, Mokgweetsi Masisi, repeatedly threatened to walk away from the five-decades-old relationship. Finally, in June 2023, De Beers and Botswana announced they’d forged an agreement in principle, which was followed by a “heads of terms” three months later. Yet, despite frequent assurances that a final deal would soon be signed, 2024 came and went without that happening. In November 2024, Masisi lost his bid for reelection. From the outset, the country’s new president, Duma Boko, struck a far more conciliatory tone. On Feb. 3, he fulfilled a campaign promise by forging a new deal with De Beers within the first 100 days of his administration. The deal will allow Botswana to sell as much as 50% of the two parties’ jointly mined diamonds on its own. JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

THE A fancy yellow and a near-black rough Botswana diamond

Yet, before the ink was dry on the new contract, De Beers’ 85% owner Anglo American handed the company a humiliating blow. On Feb. 20, Anglo wrote down De Beers’ book value by a whopping $2.9 million, marking the second year in a row it has taken an impairment on De Beers. Anglo now values the miner at $4.1 billion, less than half of the $9.2 billion it was worth in 2023. Some believed that the drastic write-down was part of Anglo’s ongoing effort to dress up De Beers for sale. Anglo first announced it was planning to unload De Beers in May 2024; at the time, Anglo was fending off a takeover bid from rival miner BHP Group. While BHP’s bid was rejected, Anglo CEO Duncan Wanblad later said he planned to sell De Beers regardless. Yet, in the eight months since Anglo put De Beers on the block, no obvious suitors have emerged—aside from the government of Botswana, which currently owns 15% of the

company and has expressed interest in raising its stake. The problem is, while De Beers may be a prestigious business, it’s currently an unprofitable one. Its revenue has been hurt by the popularity of lab-grown diamonds as well as weak diamond demand in China. In 2024, it reported $2.7 billion in rough sales—its lowest number in decades— and a $25 million loss. If Anglo can’t sell De Beers, Wanblad has suggested it could be spun off with an initial public offering. Industry analyst Paul Zimnisky believes that’s the most likely outcome. “De Beers is a difficult business to sell, given the complex business structure—it’s vertically integrated and has intertwined joint ventures with government partners,” he says. “I believe there are good years ahead if proper investments are made, especially in terms of marketing and differentiating the natural diamond product from the man-made version. Historically, the diamond business has been resilient. It’s a special industry.”

87% Amount of Christmas items—including decorations such as lights, ornaments, and artificial trees— that were imported to the United States from China in 2024, according to Reuters Retailers are delaying ordering these standard items because of the stiff tariffs on Chinese goods, the news agency said. JCKONLINE.COM

NEWS GEMS

Q&A Below: Melanie Grant receives the 2022 Gem Award for Media Excellence from Marion Fasel

3 Questions for…

(OPPOSITE PAGE) COURTESY OF DE BEERS GROUP; (THIS PAGE) GRANT: ANDREW WERNER; FASEL AND GRANT: BART GORIN PHOTOGRAPHY

M L IN JANUARY, MELANIE Grant, who became CEO of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) in January 2023, announced she was stepping down as leader of the London-based group, though she’ll continue on as a consultant. Former Signet Jewelers and Rio Tinto executive John Hall has been appointed interim CEO until the RJC finds a permanent replacement. Below, Grant talks with JCK about why she decided to move on, what her time at the RJC taught her about sustainability, and why the group recently issued a lab-grown diamond standard. — B Why are you stepping down as head of the Responsible Jewellery Council? When I came in, the organization was in a precarious position. Working with the team, I was able to get the organization back on its feet. We are approaching 2,000 members, which is a phenomenal number. So it’s good to go out on a high. The job is all-consuming. It’s constant travel, constant meetings, constant emails. I just need a bit more time this year for myself, to do JCKONLINE.COM

other things. Which is why it’s nice to go to a consultancy position. I can do this, but not all the time. What did you learn about sustainability during your time at RJC? As much as we try and make sustainability simple, it isn’t. It’s a complex, ever-moving topic. Outside people say, “Why can’t it just happen fast?” But it takes time to do it well. It’s going to be a learning curve for all of us. When I came in, I wanted people to not feel bad about getting it wrong, to just start something, because sustainability will just get more important as time goes on. With artificial intelligence, the digital transition, governments fighting for mineral dominance, sustainability is absolutely going to be part of the value proposition for jewelry. Why did the RJC issue standards for lab-grown diamonds? We felt that the lab industry should adhere to guidelines like everyone else, especially when it comes to [sustainability] claims. Every material on the planet has a footprint, and we felt lab-grown should have a standard of its own.

the industry authority

SUMMER 2025

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK RESPONSIBLE CITIZEN

Rosena Sammi The Jewelry Edit thejewelryedit.com

When Rosena Sammi founded The Jewelry Edit in 2020, the words disrupt and inspire served as guidance and motivation BY KAREN DYBIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABRIELA HERMAN

N 2020, ROSENA Sammi gave up a career designing and manufacturing her own fashion jewelry label for a new role as founder and CEO of e-commerce jewelry platform The Jewelry Edit. The New York City–based lawyer-turned-designer was driven by a desire to shake up her life and the jewelry industry. Sammi’s timing was impeccable. That year, the industry, mirroring the wider world, began grappling with issues related to diversity, equity, and inclusion on the heels of the murder in May of George Floyd by Minneapolis police officers. At the same time, Sammi, who was born in New Zealand to parents of Sri Lankan descent, was invested in promoting sustainability, including responsible gemstone sourcing and Fairmined gold. The Jewelry Edit’s curated selection of ethically made jewelry from a diverse stable of designers is available online as well as at pop-up events that Sammi promotes year-round. JCK spoke with Sammi about her desire to JCKONLINE.COM

Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Dois Irmãos Choker by Prasi

disrupt the trade, her approach to storytelling, and how she sees The Jewelry Edit evolving in the years to come. When you started The Jewelry Edit, did you intend to be revolutionary? Absolutely! I had, and continue to have, an ambitious mission to change how people shop for jewelry. I had grown disenchanted with the focus on fast fashion and the dismissive jewelry shopping experience. I recall doing so many trunk shows at department stores when I had my jewelry brand, and I saw firsthand the frightening reality that most women didn’t know what they were buying and were too intimidated to ask questions. I wanted to turn that on its head. How is The Jewelry Edit different from a traditional multibrand jewelry retailer? Creating experiences for our clients is what we do best, and whether it’s a hand-painted $50 cuff or a $30,000 pair of earrings, you’re going to learn SUMMER 2025

Tourmaline and diamond choker by Carolina Neves

“I had, and continue to have, an ambitious mission to change how people shop for jewelry.” all about it and appreciate the story behind it. We are fortunate to attract clients who care about the things we care about—the environment, sustainability, circularity, diversity, craftsmanship, and women’s empowerment, to name a few—and getting to host events that discuss these issues through a jewelry lens makes us feel good about what we do. It’s not just jewelry; it’s a dialogue about change. Why was creating a physical pop-up experience important to you? Meeting our customers, having them touch and feel the jewelry, and connecting with our mission are valuable and rewarding for us. But it’s not everyday; it’s unique and exclusive. Our events take a lot of thoughtful planning. We educate and entertain. We

share personal stories and inspirations. Whether it’s a wellness meditation with designer Paige Novick, a fireside chat about social responsibility with Pippa Small, or a book launch with author [and jewelry historian] Carol Woolton, we are finding ways to wow our clients. Why do you prioritize telling stories about jewelry and the designers who make it? We don’t just care whether the jewelry is pretty. We want to share much more. Take designers from Brazil like Prasi, Carolina Neves, and Casa Castro—we love learning about the culture and inspiration they share through their designs and taking a deep dive into the stones and responsible practices at the Cruzeiro Mine in Minas Gerais, where they source many of their tourmalines.

We are committed to authentically telling these stories; clients respond to that authenticity and transparency. How has your mission laid the foundation for The Jewelry Edit’s future? An essential part of our mission is supporting and working with emerging talent to inspire the creation of thoughtful and responsible jewelry. We are excited to launch the Jewelry Edit Foundation in 2025. Bringing to life workshops and a speaker series that I’ve been dreaming about since our inception is an exciting milestone and a key reason for starting The Jewelry Edit. I’ve always been an outsider—it’s nice to welcome fellow outsiders into the industry and help provide them with the tools to succeed.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

LOCATION: FASANO HOTEL; SAMMI’S EARRINGS BY CASA CASTRO

Sammi modeling a La Mère multi-stone necklace and Divine bracelet by Carolina Neves, OMG! diamond and enamel bracelet by Raphaele Canot, Jacaranda ring by Prasi, and Meenakari Silk Route ring by Alice Cicolini

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Shop Talk

NEWSLETTERS

G GENNIFER FLAXMAN MANAGING PARTNER BERNIE ROBBINS JEWELERS Somers Point, N.J.

B R BB E

a: It hasn’t affected us yet.

Q: how are you coping with the high price of gold? W

a: I’m dealing with the rising price

JCK NEWS DAILY JCK SPECIAL REPORT

of gold the way I always have, by raising my prices accordingly. There is so much more confusion about what solid gold and fine jewelry really means. Why would you buy a pair of gold hoops for $600 when someone else is selling gold hoops for $35? I can’t convince some people that there is a difference. I don’t make plated pieces, so I just had to walk away from all middle- and lower-cost items. I can’t see how I can compete. Other than engagement rings, in 10 years will anyone buy solid gold jewelry if the price keeps going up?

ILAH CIBIS OWNER ILAH JEWELRY Worcester, Mass.

a: We have not had a lot SIGN UP AT JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE BOB MOELLER PRESIDENT R.F. MOELLER JEWELER St. Paul, Minn.

of pushback on gold pricing, surprisingly. In the bridal area, we work with a lot of platinum, so that has minimized the impact. Repairs have risen, but again we are working on higher average ticket items. We will see the impact with brands like Roberto Coin and Marco Bicego as they announce price increases, but the demand for fashion gold was strong last holiday.

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag E U M RE.

We are selling so much more [yellow] gold than white gold or silver. Gold fashion bracelets and fashion earrings are still doing well, and we are still having more expensive gold jewelry sales, though we’re not selling as many pieces. The gold price has not gotten quite as much press in the regular media as it did in the past, though we’re starting to see more people trading in their gold.

STEVEN HOLTZMAN VICE CHAIRMAN CD PEACOCK Chicago

a: We have not seen a significant impact on business due to the rise in gold prices. The average increase has been modest, approximately 2 to 3%, and our clients understand the economics behind these changes. Most of our brands have implemented these price adjustments simultaneously, which helps ensure that there is no disconnect or volatility in our pricing structure across different brands. JCKONLINE.COM

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SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

3012 BOLLING WAY NE ATLANTA

DON PURCELL

A luxury retail veteran’s passion project offers fine jewels, high-end gifts, and art

W BY KAREN DYBIS

HEN THE PANDEMIC upended Don Purcell’s career at the beloved fashion chain Jeffrey, where he’d long served as general manager in Atlanta and New York City, Purcell did what anyone might at a life turning point: He reflected on his strengths, including his strong retail experience, his understanding of art and jewelry, as well as his long-term relationships with designers. “It was a life reset for me,” Purcell tells JCK. “I interviewed with all of the big boxes. I knew I could do that, but that was not what my heart wanted to do. It was my opportunity to do something for myself—but it had to be something that wouldn’t drain my retirement funds.” The luxury fashion expert also wanted to stay in Atlanta. So, in September 2021, Purcell found a space in the city’s Buckhead Village neighborhood and opened his dream store: Don Purcell, a concept gallery showcasing modern fine jewelry, art, and luxury gifts. He fills the boutique with the people and objects he loves. Every case shows off his taste, whether it’s bright gemstone jewels by Irene Neuwirth, sleek and sophisticated designs by Eva Fehren, or Sylva & Cie’s upscale yet playful pieces.

SUMMER 2025

The founder and namesake of Don Purcell, which will soon celebrate its fifth year of business JCKONLINE.COM

65 Pieces by Southernborn, New York– based pop artist Ashley Longshore add pops of color throughout the store.

“It’s not intimidating. There’s no dress code. I’ve always got great music going, so it’s a more relaxed environment.”

Organically shaped gemstone and 22k gold jewels by Eli Halili

Books, bags, and other accessories

A STORE THAT’S LIKE HOME

He also sells high-end gifts from brands such as Judith Leiber and Trudon, and artwork by vivacious pop artist Ashley Longshore and other friends. After Purcell reached out to the brands on his list and asked for their support, he called Longshore and asked if she wanted to join him. “Now, our walls are emblazoned with her art, which is perfect because I wanted the store to be happy and bright.”

FROM PRINTS TO THE PANDEMIC Born in Ridgeway, Va., to a textile-loving working mom and a hardware-store-owner dad, Purcell graduated with a fine arts degree from the University of South Carolina. Trained as a printmaker, he wandered until he got a job at the famed luxury shoe store Bob Ellis in Charleston, S.C., where the owner’s son Jeffrey Kalinsky saw Purcell’s potential for retail greatness. Kalinsky’s mentorship and Purcell’s Southern charm combined to make the Jeffrey boutique chain a massive success, earning the store media accolades and even a Saturday Night Live parody. But everything changed when the world shut down due to the pandemic. In May 2020, Nordstrom, which had purchased the Jeffrey brand in 2005, told Purcell and the rest of the Jeffrey family it was closing the stores permanently. JCKONLINE.COM

Among Don Purcell’s roster of designers is Eva Fehren, known for her geometric styles and fancy-cut diamonds.

Don Purcell Jeweler’s mission is to be an experience from start to finish. “It’s an environment unlike any other jewelry store in the area,” Purcell says. “It’s not intimidating. There’s no dress code, but people express themselves. I’ve always got great music going, so it’s a more relaxed environment.” Purcell says he follows his mother’s advice of giving clients a tour as if he has invited them into his home—he wants to personally show his guests each of the special objects he has collected. Purcell peppers the store with his favorite jewelry designers from around the world, including Israeli designer Eli Halili and Japan’s Mio Harutaka. Every jewelry case is set up to tell a story about the designers found within as well as why Purcell chooses to showcase them. “I love to support new talent because it’s beautiful,” he says. “We’re always looking for what’s fresh and exciting.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE. SUMMER 2025

BOOTH LUX131

550 South Hill Street, Suite #950 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Phone: 213.327.0863 Fax: 213.327.0865

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SUMMER 2025

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

OLD MONEY 1/ Medieval silver coin brooch with pearls in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Elizabeth Locke; 540837-2215; elizabethlocke.com

4 2/ The Devotion necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and ruby; $11,950; Azlee; inquire@azlee jewelry.com; shop.azleejewelry.com

Does the almost-obsolete penny have you pining for loose change? These coin jewels remind us of those who came before, and our own place in the timeline. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY 3/ Ancient bronze coin necklace in 14k yellow gold; $10,940; For Future Reference Vintage; mark@markd luxury.com; forfuturereference.com JCKONLINE.COM

4/ Circa A.D. 253–268 coin bracelet in 18k yellow gold and leather; $7,980; Jorge Adeler; elizabeth@ theeabproject.com; jorgeadeler.com

5/ Emerald and antique coin ring in 20k gold with diamonds; $30,000; Coomi; info@coomi. com; coomi.com

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

UCCESSFUL JEWELRY DESIGNERS tend to settle into a niche that can be summed up in a sentence. Stephanie Gottlieb declines to be neatly pigeonholed, declaring with a laugh, “You’d need a run-on sentence” to describe the breadth of her SG brand. From bridal and bangles to rainbow tennis necklaces and a super–high-end Prestige collection, Gottlieb produces pieces that all the cool girls (like her) want to collect and wear. More than 40% of those sales happen online, fueled by half a million Instagram followers (@stephaniegottlieb). How did Gottlieb attract such a large and loyal following in the 12 years since forming what she initially envisioned as a “small, bespoke, word-of-mouth” engagement ring business? She became the engaging face of the brand, marketing her “classic with a twist” aesthetic and enviable lifestyle online while tweaking her designs to please clients. “You can’t walk into one of the legacy brands on Fifth Avenue and say, ‘Oh, I like this ring, but can you put a ruby in it?’ ” Gottlieb says, seated in her serene, beige-onbeige New York City showroom, located just a few blocks south of those big-name stores. “We say, ‘Absolutely!’ Personalization has been a big part of what we do since the beginning.” Gottlieb never expected to end up in the jewelry business, although she remembers playing around with costume pieces as a teenager in suburban Westchester County, New York. She studied communications, marketing, and merchandising at the University of Michigan with an eye toward a job in magazines, but a summer internship at a

SUMMER 2025

DON’T FENCE HER IN

Platinum 3.09 ct. Emerald Band and a Half with pavé emeralds; $45,000; Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry; 212655-1230; stephanie gottlieb.com

Stephanie Gottlieb creates stackables, studs, engagement rings, high jewelry—and just about everything in between BY KATHY HENDERSON

Pavé Wave cuff in 14k yellow gold; $3,985

Fancy Bezel Diamond Slider Bangle in 18k yellow and white gold; $10,480

Made-to-order Personalized Slider Bangle in 18k yellow gold; price on request

JCKONLINE.COM

the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

14k yellow gold Mini Diamond Button Hollow Rolo Chain necklace with tanzanite and diamonds; price on request

4.01 ct. radiantcut diamond engagement ring with epaulette side stones in platinum; $120,000

“I wouldn’t call the collection trendy, but I think it’s on trend. We’ve redefined what everyday jewelry looks like, and we want our pieces to be worn and loved.” 14k yellow gold Candy Button Heart Studs with amethyst and diamonds; $3,550

Green Colombian emerald and diamond pavé drop earrings in platinum; $625,950

SUMMER 2025

diamond wholesaler on 47th Street proved eye-opening. “It was a family-run business, and they let me do just about everything,” she recalls. “I started on the loose diamond side and transitioned into the jewelry side. I did sales, marketing, production, trade shows, trunk shows—it was an amazing opportunity.” After five years (and while planning her own wedding), Gottlieb felt ready to branch out and guide her network of fashionable friends through the process of choosing a diamond ring. As she observes, “Although most jewelry is purchased for a woman to wear, it was inevitably a man showing them the diamond options and communicating with the jeweler, who was also probably a man. Very little attention was being paid to what women want and the details that make a piece special.” She sensed an opportunity to “flip the conversation,” adding, “It’s not just about the diamond, it’s about how the stone is set—that’s where the storytelling is. Putting a bigger emphasis on design is where I found my niche.” Instagram gave Gottlieb a platform to show off her gift for product photography and for explaining how to layer a chain necklace with a diamond pendant or style a gold bracelet stack. She scored a big hit with her Slider Bangles, an ingenious version of a charm bracelet featuring personalized charms and letters that clip into the top of the bracelet. Early on, she would show off her Sliders, adorned with the names of family members and pets, styled with Cartier Love bangles she already owned. Customers loved it. “My girl probably has a Love bracelet; she probably

owns Van Cleef Alhambra; I’m showing her SG pieces that round out her collection.” Still a best seller, the Slider Bangle combines three elements Gottlieb values most: “It’s personalized, it’s stackable, and it’s very wearable.” The company’s social media reach grew as Gottlieb began sharing vacation snapshots featuring her husband and two young children as well as styling videos shot in her closet at home. “One of the distinguishing factors of the brand is that I am a living founder willing to put myself out there,” she says. “I’m forthright about my lifestyle, and that’s become part of the ethos of the brand. People have become invested in the community we’ve built online, and they want more than just pretty jewelry—they want to feel like they’re buying into the brand’s story.” Gottlieb’s Instagram posts manage to be both relatable and aspirational, her understated outfits and minimal makeup never distracting attention from the jewelry. For her JCK interview, the designer layered necklaces over a ladylike green sweater and combined a 6 ct. diamond ring set in 18k gold with smaller rings on five other fingers. Completing the look were multiple earrings and a stack of six bangles on one arm and five on the other. “This is light,” she jokes. “A couple of pieces have been taken for photography.” Moving into a sunny conference room, Gottlieb shows off trays of rainbow necklaces, gold double-domed ear cuffs and bracelets, and cabochon Candy Button earrings and pendants. “I’m a matchy-matchy person,” she says, eyeing malachite earrings in the same color family as her sweater. JCKONLINE.COM

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the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Emerald and pear diamond bracelet with 6.79 cts. t.w. Colombian emeralds and 5.77 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $41,985

Mixed-cut Diamond Bow necklace with 56.12 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $384,590

14k yellow gold Mini Candy Button Ring with citrine and diamonds; $1,895

SUMMER 2025

14k yellow gold Mini Diamond Heart Button Ring; $3,500

“My mother used to call me Queen Elizabeth because I like my shoes and my handbag and my jewelry to match.” Another tray displays ready-to-ship engagement rings, all of which are made in New York, set with natural diamonds of varied shapes and sizes. (Fashion collections are produced overseas.) The majority of Gottlieb’s clients, who consult with “bespoke advisers” in the showroom, are self-purchasers. In addition to her own millennial cohort, the brand has captured the attention of younger fashionistas. “Gen Z has full [wish list] boards about their engagement ring and the tennis bracelet they want when they can afford it, or what their parents are going to give them for Christmas,” she says. “There’s been a shift in priorities as we’ve seen luxury handbag pricing skyrocket. When a Chanel bag and a tennis bracelet are essentially the same price, people are seeing jewelry as something they want to invest in. They can see the lasting value.” The brand’s latest venture, dubbed the Prestige collection, is designed to attract high-end collectors. Gottlieb calls it “my dream collection, what I wish I could design all day because my brain is always going toward the highest-level version of what I can make.” A twin-stone ring of heart-shape diamonds is offered online for $92,895; an emerald and diamond pear-shape tennis necklace retails for $106,890. And yes, Gottlieb affirms that pieces this expensive attract buyers online. On the more affordable side, the SG brand got a huge boost when Taylor Swift wore a diamond and gold “87” necklace (honoring boyfriend Travis Kelce, who wears No. 87 on his Kansas City Chiefs jersey), paired with a diamond tennis choker, to the 2024 Super Bowl. The spike in sales lasted for months and introduced London into the brand’s top 10 cities. Gottlieb’s Bubble name necklace was recently featured in an Instagram post from jewelry expert Will Kahn, tapping into the puffy letter trend. “People are customizing with initials, their kids’ names, lucky numbers, their birthstones,” she says. “I wouldn’t call the collection trendy, but I think it’s on trend. We’ve redefined what everyday jewelry looks like, and we want our pieces to be worn and loved.” With an eye toward growth, Gottlieb hired Morgan Richardson (a friend since first grade) from La Perla two years ago as president and chief commercial officer. Also new to her staff of 20: a lead designer to assist in assembling larger-scale collections. “I’m excited about what this next chapter looks like,” Gottlieb says, hinting at the possibility of a more expansive retail presence and partnerships. “We have lofty goals, and we’re on the right track.” JCKONLINE.COM

the look

RED CARPET

Boucheron Plume de Paon large ring with rose-cut diamond and pavé diamonds in 18k white gold

WITCHY BUSINESS

Something Wicked this way comes! The stars of the $750 million holiday blockbuster cast sparkly spells at the 2025 Oscars. BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

UNDER $50,000

Y-couture triple-finger statement ring with 3.01 cts. t.w. round diamonds and 4.52 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds; $27,000; Yeprem; info@ yepremjewellery.com; yepremjewellery.com SUMMER 2025

Vela French-cut pavé diamond wrap ring with 3 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $18,000; Hearts On Fire; 877-737-3328; heartsonfire.com

MICHELLE YEOH Shiz University sorceress and Everything Everywhere All At Once Oscar winner Michelle Yeoh made a Madame Morrible– worthy entrance outside the Dolby Theater in Hollywood on March 2. In other words, she showed us who was the boss. From the strapless blue silk Balenciaga to the suite of Boucheron white gold and diamond jewels—which included an oversize ring, a tie necklace trailing down her back, and asymmetrical earrings—to the diamond-covered timepiece by her beloved Richard Mille, everything, everywhere was altogether stunning. JCKONLINE.COM

YEOH: ETIENNE LAURENT/THE ACADEMY/© AMPAS

UNDER $20,000

the Look

RED CARPET

Marli New York Cleo sculpt diamond earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds

UNDER $500 Ariana Grande x Swarovski drop earrings with crystal pearls and round- and baguette-cut zirconia; $330; Swarovski; 800-426-3088; swarovski.com

After walking the red carpet in a sculptural velvet Louis Vuitton gown— in Elphaba-esque deep green, naturally—Erivo changed into this custom floral-trimmed Vivienne Westwood ballgown for the telecast opening. There, she treated viewers to “Home” from the 1975 musical The Wiz and a much- anticipated duet of Wicked’s ubiquitous anthem “Defying Gravity” with her Oscar-nominated costar, Ariana Grande. She kept her jewels, art deco–style diamond and white gold pieces from Marli New York, as light and bright as her dress—which, looking back on it, was awfully Glinda-coded, don’t you think?

SUMMER 2025

Starry Night two-row sideways 18k white gold hoop earrings with 3.62 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,300; Kwiat; 212-7257777; kwiat.com

ERIVO: TRAE PATTON/THE ACADEMY/© AMPAS

CYNTHIA ERIVO

UNDER $20,000 JCKONLINE.COM

the look

RED CARPET

De Beers Adonis Rose necklace with pear-shape diamond drop and 6.51 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold

ARIANA GRANDE It’s good to see her, isn’t it? Grande made a grand entrance wearing a seriously sculpted Schiaparelli Haute Couture ballgown in her now-signature pale pink color. According to the maison, the duchess satin, tulle, and silk dress contains more than 190,000 sequins, rhinestones, and beads. With all that sparkle, it’s not surprising that she kept her De Beers diamond jewels a little low-key: a drop necklace, two rings, and stud earrings (if you can call 8 ct. studs low-key). Question for fans of Wicked on Broadway: Doesn’t this dress make you think just a bit of the giant floating bubble that carries Glinda onstage at the top of the show?

18k white gold Waterfall choker necklace with 3.62 cts. t.w. diamonds; $20,600; Gabriel & Co.; 212-519-1400; gabrielny.com

UNDER $10,000 SUMMER 2025

Cupid’s Bow necklace in 18k white gold and rhodium vermeil with labgrown simulated white diamonds; $9,506 (includes canary simulated diamond and lab-grown aquamarine pendant); Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

JCKONLINE.COM

GRANDE: MICHAEL BAKER/THE ACADEMY/© AMPAS

UNDER $25,000

the look

Q&A

Asks...

RACHEL QUINN

From clouds and arrows to hearts, eyes, lips, and skulls, her jewels never fail to surprise and delight IF HEART-SHAPE jewelry gives you the icks, you’re not alone. But Los Angeles artist and goldsmith Rachel Quinn’s chunky, colorful pieces—think hardstone styles with malachite and amazonite, and touches such as stripes and polka dots—will make a believer of even the most avid heart haters. “I’m a romantic at heart—but not in an overly saccharine way,” Quinn confesses. “I love taking the universal symbol of love and adding my own playful twist, balancing its sweetness with a touch of vulnerability, all in a whimsical and compelling way.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 48 Number of years in the biz: 15 Number of employees you oversee: I prefer to work alone in my studio and work with a few talented artisans a block away in L.A.’s Jewelry District to help me with more challenging pieces. Describe your personal style: Classic with a bit of an edge. I prefer any punch to come from my shoes and jewelry (I do only wear my own jewelry). And a red lip, always a red lip. First piece you ever designed: In the early 2000s, I used to make one-of-a-kind leather handbags. With leftover scraps, I made a few chokers for myself, and one day someone stopped me to ask where I’d bought mine. When I told her I made it, she said I had a unique eye and should consider becoming a jewelry designer. SUMMER 2025

Rachel Quinn x Gemfields Lovesick necklace in handcarved onyx with emerald cabochons

Ruby Heart Bubble Bath ring with pink sapphire suds

The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: Oh, that’s too hard to pick one! I will say the collection I’m most proud of is my recent collection I made in partnership with Gemfields. It’s called Crazy Love and illustrates the emotional roller coaster of falling in love. It’s the most “me” collection I’ve made. Best piece of advice you ever received: “Don’t borrow trouble from tomorrow.” Worst piece of advice: “Have a Plan B.” If I had a backup plan, I would have quit jewelry-making one of the countless times things got tough. First job ever: In middle school, I babysat regularly for a professor couple who did not own a TV, and their kids insisted I perform cheerleading routines before bed—a hilarious ask for a budding metalhead. How did you get started designing jewelry? My background is in fine arts, and I began making jewelry as a way to overcome a creative block in my painting. Wanting to keep my hands busy and explore a new medium, I set aside my brushes and dove into something entirely different via working for a Brooklyn jewelry artist. It clicked in a way painting rarely had. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would love to be a lighting designer—adding the element of light to functional sculpture is magical. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My simple everyday jewels: gold ball studs in three graduating sizes going up my ears; a gold ear cuff I’ve worn for 15 years; my memorial ball pendant filled with the ashes of my dad and dog; an array of gold bangles I lasered onto my wrists; and, lastly, pinky rings. Five items on your desk right now: My sketchbook, a copious amount of Post-its with various to-do lists, two pairs of readers, my laptop, and a fresh box of Blackwing pencils. Five songs on your playlist: “Fresh Blood,” Eels; “Dragonaut,” Sleep; “In the Air Tonight,” Phil Collins [pictured ]; “Ivory,” Movement; “Glory Be,” Lightnin’ Hopkins. What did you have for breakfast? Black tea with a splash of cream and a bit of sugar. Guilty pleasure: Naps. I love a good midday snooze to reset my mind. It’s not something I indulge in often—only when needed—but it always feels like such a luxurious treat. Scent: Chanel No. 5. How do you unwind? My favorite way is going on motorcycle adventures with my best friend. Favorite movie: One of my favorite movies from the last few years is Triangle of Sadness. What a wild ride. Personal motto: “What comes from the heart, goes to the heart.” JCKONLINE.COM

MOTORCYCLE: PHOTOGRANARY/ADOBE STOCK; TEA: GEO-GRAFIKA/ISTOCK/GETTY; COLLINS: DPA PICTURE ALLIANCE/ALAMY; POSTER: © NEON/ EVERETT COLLECTION; MASK: AVOCADO_STUDIO/ADOBE STOCK

Rachel Quinn x Gemfields Lover’s Eye Brooch

T H E

S T O R Y

O F

P L A T I N U M

A PRISTINE

N A R R AT I V E A

2 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

Platinum represents beauty, durability, and quality — a premium option in the world of jewelry. As you work with and sell this metal, you’ll experience the unique story of platinum.

A. 126780 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 11/2 ct | B. 126306 (9×7mm), $2,239 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 1 ct (8×6mm), $2,325 | C. 126902 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 1 ct (8×6mm), $1,395 D. 126764 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 11/4 ct (7mm), | E. GRAINRM .9995 $1,419 Platinum Grain, Responsibly Mined Stuller.com/Platinum | 3

WHY WORK WITH

P L AT I N U M Platinum’s malleability allows for intricate designs without compromising durability.

Platinum’s density helps secure diamonds and gemstones for years with minimal maintenance.

2mm 3mm

4mm

5mm

6mm

7mm

8mm

Platinum’s premium quality and rarity offer higher price margin potential.

A. WIRE Platinum Ruthenium Round Wire, 20 Gauge B. RING BLANK Platinum Ruthenium 2mm–8mm Ring Blank SHEET Platinum Ruthenium Flat Sheet | C. 24 Gauge | D. 20 Gauge E. SOLDER Platinum Repair Sheet Solder, Platinum Weld (1800) F. GRAINRM Responsibly Mined .95/.05 Platinum Ruthenium Grain

4 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

Stuller.com/Platinum | 5

UNPARALLELED

S EC U R I T Y When it comes to securing stones while fighting abrasion and corrosion, nothing performs better than a platinum setting.

A. 2000032 Cushion 4-Prong Pre-Notched Claw Peg Setting, 5.5×5.5mm, $165 B. 2002680 Oval Diamond Semi-Set Shank Setting, 9×7mm, 0.04 ctw, 33, $705 C. 2002410 Oval 4-Prong Pre-Notched Claw Shank Setting,10×8mm, $445 D. SH961 Cathedral-Style Milgrain Open Shank for 4-Prong Setting, $1,285 E. 2002787 Oval 4-Prong Low Shank Setting, 9×7mm, $245 | F. 2002338 Round 6-Prong Low Shank Setting, 8.2mm, $465 G. 546 Emerald 4-Prong Shank Setting, 8.5×6.5mm, Platinum Ruthenium, $299 H. SH985 Lightweight Shank for 4-Prong Setting, $715 | J. 2002818 Marquise 6-Prong V-End Low Shank Setting, 12×6mm, $695 | K. SH979 Diamond Side Stone Shank for 4-Prong Setting, 5/8 ctw, 33, $4,769 | L. SH980 Diamond Side Stone Shank for 4-Prong Setting, 1/2 ctw, 33, $3,429 | M. SH981 Diamond SideStone Shank for 4-Prong Setting, 3/8 ctw, 117, $3,109 | N. 61-9916 Moon Glow Echo and Shimmer Leatherette Counter Tray with Ring Slit, $50.05

6 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

D C

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Stuller.com/Platinum | 7

TELLING THE STORY OF

P L AT I N U M Connecting a customer to platinum’s wonder begins with a conversation. In discussions about platinum, be sure to highlight the key features and benefits that make platinum stand out.

• Alluring beauty • Superior durability • Naturally white

color

• Timeless appeal • Hypoallergenic properties

A. 123307 Diamond Band, 13/8 ctw (3mm), 8mm, size 10, 32, | B. 123015 Diamond Anniversary $11,611 Band, 1/5 ctw, 32, $2,145

8 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

“Successful jewelry sales professionals understand the art of storytelling, and nothing tells a more compelling jewelry story than platinum.” – Kevin Reilly, Platinum Guild International C

E F G H D

C. IR10 Comfort-Fit Half-Round Band, 6mm, size 10, $3,029 D. F11 Flat Band, 6mm, size 11, $2,129, shown with Ice finish E. FIR11 Comfort-Fit Flat Band, 6mm, size 11, $2,949, shown with Florentine finish | F. MG11 Milgrain Half-Round Band, 6mm, size 11, $2,155 | G. HR11 Half-Round Band, 6mm, size 11, $2,119, shown with Hammered finish | H. IR11 Comfort-Fit Half-Round Band, 6mm, size 11, $3,109, shown with Glass Blast finish | J. IRL11 Comfort-Fit Lightweight Half-Round Band, 6mm, size 11, $2,189

Stuller.com/Platinum | 9

JEWELRY BUILT

FO R T H E FUTURE A B

40% of Americans own a family heirloom over 50 years old. More than 50% of Americans consider a piece of jewelry their most prized possession. – New York Post

For the jewelry that matter most, choose a metal that can be there for generations to come.

A. 88546 Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Earrings, .03 ctw, 4mm, 33, 83, $1,059 | B. 87181 Turquoise Huggie Hoop Earrings, 12.2×2.32mm, 298, $1,165 | C. 88544 Lab-Grown Emerald and Diamond Halo-Style Earrings, 1/8 ctw, 4, 33, $1,899 | D. 87437 Ethiopian Opal and Diamond Earrings, .06 ctw, 33, 158, $1,395 E. 88567 Emerald and Diamond Hoop Earrings, 1/8 ctw, 13.6×2mm, 33, 51, $1,939 10 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

F G

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K L

F. 124348 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 2 ct (12×6mm), $1,885 G. 124334 Lab-Grown Diamond Anniversary Band, 11/2 ctw (4×3mm), 618, $3,379 | H. 126671 Lab-Grown Diamond Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 33/4 ct (10×8mm), 1/3 ctw, 618, | J. 122107 Lab-Grown Diamond Eternity Band, 7/8 ctw $2,425 | K. 126630 Lab-Grown Diamond Semi-Set (2mm), size 7, 618, $1,805 Engagement Ring, 1 ct (6.5mm), 5/8 ctw, 618, $3,055 L. 122981 Lab-Grown Diamond Anniversary Band, 1/2 ctw (2mm), 618, $2,239 M. CH176 Cable Chain with Spring Ring, 1.5mm, 18", $1,265 | N. 28392 4-Prong Round Pendant Mounting, 7mm, $279, shown set with Lab-Grown Diamond. | P. CH123 Diamond-Cut Cable Chain with Spring Ring, 1mm, 18", $669 | Q. 28428 4-Prong Pendant Mounting, 10×8mm, $419, shown set with Lab-Grown Diamond. Stuller.com/Platinum | 11

I N OV EO P L AT I N U M EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FROM STULLER Inoveo is platinum at its very best. Formulated to be a jeweler’s all-in-one solution for platinum production, this alloy offers outstanding benefits behind and beyond the bench in casting, polishing, setting, and wear.

Featured: GRAININVO Inoveo Platinum Grain

12 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

Stuller.com/Platinum | 13

WHAT SETS

I N OV EO P L AT I N U M APART?

Featured: GRAININVO Inoveo Platinum Grain

14 | @stullerinc | #HowIStuller

• Increased hardness • Long-lasting whiteness and brightness

• Smoother, more consistent fill during casting

• More wear-resistance

• Enables potential skill

transfer from white gold

• Opportunity for more intricate designs

Stuller.com/Platinum | 15

Stuller.com 800 877 7777

Back cover, from top: 126844 Lab-Grown Diamond Contour Band, 3/8 ctw, 618, $2,335 123843 Lab-Grown Diamond Anniversary Band, 15/8 ctw (6×4mm), 618, $3,785 | 127098 Lab-Grown Diamond Semi-Set Engagement Ring, 31/2 ct (11×9mm), 1/8 ctw, 618, $2,649 | 122107 Lab-Grown Diamond Eternity Band, 27/8 ctw (3.5mm), size 7, 618, $4,269 IRUL10.5 Comfort-Fit Ultra-Lightweight Half-Round Band, 7mm, size 10.5, $1,665 Front cover, clockwise from left: 126888 Diamond Contour Band, 1/5 ctw, 32, $2,239 | 126764 Solitaire Engagement Ring Mounting, 2 ct (12×6mm), $1,989 123602 Diamond Anniversary Band, 1/2 ctw (4×2mm), 26, $2,729 | EL7 Comfort-Fit Lightweight European-Style Band, 7mm, size 7, $2,139

Stone codes: 4 Lab-Grown Emerald, SYN | 26 Natural Marquise Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-I, N 32 Natural Round Diamond, SI2-SI3, G-H, N | 33 Natural Diamond, I1, G-H, N 51 Natural Emerald, AA, O | 83 Natural Pink Tourmaline, AA, H | 117 Natural Pear Diamond, SI-SI3, G-I, N | 158 Natural Ethiopian Opal, N | 298 Natural Turquoise, I, N | 618 Lab-Grown Diamond, SI, G-H, SYN

Scan to shop

Items are shown larger than actual size. All items are priced in platinum at suggested retail based on $1,100 and are subject to change without notice. Visit Stuller.com for complete product selections, current pricing, and availability. Diamond weights are not exact. See chart at Stuller.com/diamondsizeranges for weight ranges. 04/2025 MKTGMEDIA:2248

@stullerinc | #HowIStuller

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SUMMER 2025

HIGH PRICES & LOW SUPPLY: A TUCSON GEM WEEK TALE. MINT TOURMALINE & BLUE JADE: THE HOT BUYS. PLUS: 28 MULTIHUED NEW JEWELS

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by Melissa Rose Bernardo

FROM JADE TO PARAIBA TO CHRYSOBERYL AND BEYOND, THESE ARE THE YEAR’S HOTTEST ROCKS

RIghTEºUs GEMstºNeS

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1. Elevated Pear Cocktail ring with 8.41 ct. paraiba tourmaline in 18k yellow gold; $35,000; Lorraine West; info@lorrainewestjewelry. com; lorrainewestjewelry.com 2. Pendant in 18k white gold with 1.92 ct. cushion paraiba, 0.12 ct. t.w. round paraiba, and 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds; $12,889; Yael Designs; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com 3. Ring with 3.24 ct. pear paraiba, 1.31 ct. cushion paraiba, 0.38 ct. oval paraiba, and 0.13 ct. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $22,500; Dorian Webb; 510-399-3272; dorianwebb.com

4. Double Zaha pendant with 1.46 cts. t.w. paraiba in 14k yellow gold; $12,000; ZAHN-Z; info@ zahnzjewelry.com; zahnzjewelry.com 5. Drop earrings with 0.95 ct. t.w. paraiba and 0.28 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold and platinum; $6,500; Harlin Jones; sumer@ harlinjones.com; harlinjones.com 6. Freya ring with 3.25 ct. paraiba tourmaline in 18k yellow gold; $46,800; HOWL; mark@markdluxury. com; handleonlywithlove.com 7. The Margo platinum earrings with 3.34 cts. t.w. pear-shape Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmalines and 0.46 ct. t.w. Vanilla Diamonds; $52,000; Le Vian Couture; 516-466-7202; levian.com

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1. Flora Fauna earrings with 25.09 cts. t.w. boulder opals, 9.73 cts. t.w. tanzanite, and 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $8,800; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com 2. 18k yellow gold ring with 7.24 ct. Lightning Ridge Australian opal and 1.05 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmaline; price on request; Temple St. Clair; 877-494-8317; templestclair.com 3. Emerald and opal drop earrings with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $10,000; Suzanne Kalan; 818-812-9217; suzannekalan.com

4. One-of-a-kind Supreme pendant opal necklace in 18k yellow gold; $167,280; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ireneneuwirth.com; ireneneuwirth.com

5. Cuff with 22.3 ct. Yowah Nut opal, 1.2 cts. t.w. paraiba, and 0.23 ct. t.w. white diamonds in 18k and 22k gold and platinum; price on request; Atelier Zobel by Peter Schmid; 49-75-312-5962; atelierzobel.com

104 1. Classic Curva ring with 5.15 ct. cushioncut chrysoberyl in 18k yellow gold; $36,000; Vanessa Fernández; mark@ markdluxury.com; vanessa-fernandez.com

2. Heirloom Bezel ring with 5.25 ct. chrysoberyl and 3.61 ct. violet sapphire in 14k yellow gold; $21,320; Retrouvaí; traci@retrouvai.com; retrouvai.com 3. Studio 54 Necklace with 15.13 ct. golden chrysoberyl and 1.87 cts. t.w. fancy intense yellow melee on 18k yellow gold Y chain; price on request; Alexia Connellan; boutique@alexiaconnellan. com; alexiaconnellan.com

4. 3-Stone Sugarloaf Totem drop huggies with chrysoberyl, lagoon tourmaline, and amethyst in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Harwell Godfrey; mark@ markdluxury.com; harwellgodfrey.com 5. 18k yellow gold ring with 4.2 ct. cat’seye chrysoberyl, 0.26 ct. t.w. demantoid garnets, 0.28 ct. t.w. alexandrites, and 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds; $50,000; Omi Privé; 626-331-4533; omiprive.com

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1. Igapó bracelet with jade, tourmaline, and diamond in 18k yellow gold; $15,200; Sauer; info@sauer1941.com; sauer1941.com 2. Hand-carved one-piece apple-green jadeite bangle; $7,310; Mason-Kay; 800722-7575; masonkay.com 3. Mesa jade pinky ring in 18k yellow gold; $3,600; Jade Ruzzo; mark@markdluxury.com; jaderuzzo.com

4. Hammered 18k yellow gold necklace with carved jade clip; price on request; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com 5. Stream Wave hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with carved nephrite jade; price on request; Fernando Jorge; 44-207-729-0126; fernandojorge.co.uk

YOU KNOW OUR METALS. NOW MEET OUR GEMS. Discover over 8,000 responsibly-sourced diamonds and gemstones — certiﬁed conﬂict-free, mined, lab grown and recycled options. You’ve trusted our metals for years. Now say hello to our stones! From classic solitaires to intricate micro-pavé designs, our expert setters can bring your vision to life with precision and care. Create unique and colorful engagement rings, anniversary bands, pendants, and more — all crafted with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals.

MADE IN THE

SINCE 1912

www.hooverandstrong.com

info@hooverandstrong.com

800-759-9997

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4 1. Gemme Superlative high jewelry earrings with dark brown, light brown, and white diamonds in 18k rose gold; price on request; Pomellato; 929-667-1967; pomellato.com

2. Brown zircon mini bracelet with diamond rondelles in sterling silver; $850; Sheryl Lowe; 805-969-1742; sheryllowejewelry.com

3. Isis Goddess ring with 12 mm Japanese akoya bronze chocolate pearl, black enamel, and 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $9,780; Marei New York; info@mareinewyork.com; mareinewyork.com 4. Kalahari ring stack with 14k rose gold and champagne diamonds in black rhodium, 14k yellow gold, and hand-carved Botswana agate; $5,825; By Pariah; sales@bypariah.com; bypariah.com 5. 18k yellow gold hoop earrings with 8.16 cts. t.w. inverted cognac diamonds and 14 mm golden South Sea pearls; $30,000; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com

6. Half Moon Necklace with rough smoky quartz, 0.5 ct. t.w. brown diamonds, and 0.27 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k pink gold; $3,500; Clara Chehab; sales@clara chehab.com; clarachehab.com

UndER

TUcSºN ThE

Gemmy Gem heavy pavé bale Mosaic mint tourmaline pendant; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ ireneneuwirth.com; ireneneuwirth.com

sUN

Cobra Bolla huggies with blue jade in 18k gold; $3,800; Andy Lif Jewelry; info@ andylifjewelry.com; andylifjewelry.com

AT THE GEM SHOWS, IT WAS CLEAR THAT A LACK OF ROUGH IS DRIVING COLORED STONE PRICES EVER HIGHER by Victoria Gomelsky

EE COLLINS STOOD in his booth on day 3 of the point, because the opportunity to see comparable material again is very unlikely, American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) GemFair in or you can be assured it’s going to be more expensive. There have not been any Tucson in early February and said what many other exhibi- major new sources that have come online for a number of years.” The backdrop to all of this is, of course, the pandemic. “A lot of traditional supply tors were thinking: “It’s a quiet show.” Collins, a dealer in Reno, Nev., who sources a wide array chains never fully recovered from COVID,” Wim Vertriest, a Bangkok-based GIA of gems—including tourmaline, sapphires, and zircons— field gemologist, explained as he admired the cases at B&B Fine Gems, a Los Angeles from Bangkok, offered a potential explanation for the dealer exhibiting at GemFair. “A lot of people that were buying in country left, and empty aisles: “Prices have shot up across the board,” he said. the miners went back to agriculture. You can’t feed your kids garnets for dinner.” Vertriest noted that the rising price of gold was another factor in the dearth of “Zircons have maybe increased 50% from two years ago.” It was a common refrain at the gem shows, where dealers rough flowing into the world’s gem-cutting centers. Miners working at gemstone noted that rising prices reflected a general lack of supply deposits were choosing to mine the precious metal instead. “I had a Kenyan friend in the marketplace. Collins gave a compelling example: In come over to Thailand, and he described it as a vacuum for rough: ‘Chuck it and the past, he would spend 10 days in Bangkok, “and the buying was easy,” he said. it’s gone,’ ” he said. While the vibe in Tucson was quieter than in previous years, the shows still saw Now, he goes to the Thai capital for three and a half months. plenty of designers—Nicole and Kim Carosella of Sorellina, Andy Lifschutz of Andy “Goods aren’t coming out of the ground like they used to,” Collins said. At a seminar during the AGTA fair, Stuart Robertson, president of Gemworld Lif, and Elise Thompson of Mejia Jewelry, to name a few—investing in color. B&B International, put it bluntly: “Production is very limited,” he said. “Scarcity is sup- vice president Dave Bindra said Mali garnets in chartreuse hues were hot sellers, as porting the price rise. At this point, we don’t see any scenario where prices for the were chrysoberyls in general: “We sold 60% of our chrysoberyls in the first two days.” Trending stones at gem dealer and fine end of color will come down. designer Kimberly Collins’ booth at the “Buyers tend to treat color like it’s gold GemFair included opalescent sapphires, or diamonds, something you can access such as a 2.81 ct. no-heat pink gem from whenever you want,” Robertson added. Vietnam. She said buyers were responding “But scarcity is such that if you see someto the stones’ attractive pricing. “They’re thing you like, it’s necessary to buy at that —Lee Collins

“Goods aren’t coming out of the ground like they used to.”

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One-of-a-kind Jade Nymph ring with jadeite, emeralds, and geometric 4.11 ct. diamond; price on request; DYNE; contact@dedyne. com; dedyne.com

3.12 ct. sapphire, 2.13 ct. garnet, 2.72 ct. zircon; prices on request; Anza Gems; orders@ anzagems.com; anzagems.com

TUCSON AGTA #622 JCK LAS VEGAS AGTA #A30051 415-982-3500

30% to 50% less expensive than gem color sapphires that have translucent clarity.” Tourmaline in vivid blue-green hues—including minty green gems from Afghanistan and Nigeria as well as green copper-bearing tourmaline from Mozambique (aka green paraibas)—was also in demand, along with minty shades of Pakistani peridot, according to dealers. At least until sticker shock set in. “Everybody’s asking about paraibas and complaining about the pricing,” said Douglas Mays of the German dealer Wild & Petsch, a GJX show exhibitor. For Monica Stephenson, founder of Anza Gems, which exhibited at the Ethical Gem Fair and the OJB (Out of the Jewel Box) Experience, back-to-back events held at the Scottish Rite Cathedral near the Tucson Convention Center, tourmaline in sunset hues drew interest among buyers as did zircons in “blushy shades of Mocha Mousse,” she said. “More designers are getting comfortable with zircon.” Of all the gems for sale in Tucson, however, the one that seemed to earn the most attention was jadeite from an ancient deposit in Guatemala. Freshly available in better qualities and seductive blue-green hues, the jade struck a chord with Lifschutz, who began buying the material in 2023. “The color that’s coming out now is even better than what was coming out before,” he said. “But it’s also the variance in color that I really like. Imperial jade, the bright green, is really sought after, but the dark green can also be really wonderful. The dark blue feels really good for the pendant design I’m working on.” Southern California gem dealer Desmond Chan, a Pueblo show exhibitor, also has gone all in on Guatemalan jade, which he’s used to make strands of graduated beads and large-scale carvings. “Demand for Guatemalan jade will grow,” he said. “I travel the world to hunt for cool stuff, and I just discovered this a few years ago. When you’re able to buy the material for an affordable price, it’s just an investment. Once an article comes out, the world will know about it, and the price is going up.”

PHOTO: TEXT RUNS VERTICAL FROM BASE: 5.5/7PT CAPS

MODEL: ASTRID BAARSMA/NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT; STYLIST: SORAYA DAYANI/ART DEPARTMENT; HAIR: THOMAS DUNKIN/ART DEPARTMENT; MAKEUP: DEANNA HAGAN/STATEMENT ARTISTS USING 111 SKIN; NAIL TECHNICIAN: ROSEANN SINGLETON/ART DEPARTMENT; SCOOP-NECK TANK: THE ROW

Brooch with 4.14 cts. t.w. old European–cut diamonds in platinum, $5,200, Jewels by Grace, 213-4446112, jewelsbygrace. com; ring with 6.27 cts. t.w. pear-shape and emerald-cut diamonds in platinum, $185,000, ring with 10.02 ct. fancy yellow pear-shape diamond in 18k yellow gold, $480,000, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985,

normansilverman. com; Kalahari Lights necklace with 88.48 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum, $1,150,000, Joanna Mei for Grandview Klein Diamonds, 212-719-4800, gkdg.com; Twisted Metal bracelet with 4.67 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $44,500, Uniform Object, 239-579-4701, uniformobject.com; bracelet with 33.04

cts. t.w. marquise-cut white diamonds and fancy yellow oval diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold, $250,000, Norman Silverman; Isla ring with 1.27 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $9,000, Ruchi New York, 212-616-7664, ruchinewyork.com; D’Oro ring with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $5,386, Effy, 212-944-0020, effyjewelry.com

FEATURES Photography by Stephen & Rebecca

Hoop earrings with 13.19 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $52,500, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com; pin with 12.95 cts. t.w. marquise-cut diamonds in 18k white gold, $68,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 800-7428864, rahaminov. com; Cluster Cuff bangle with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $5,700, Gabriel & Co., 212-519-1420, gabrielny.com; Inside/Out Diamond Flexi bangle with 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold,

$4,700, Hearts On Fire, 617-523-5588, heartsonfire.com; ring with 2.03 ct. yellow diamond and 0.82 ct. t.w. white diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold, $56,709, Yael Designs, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com; Fairy Dust diamond bypass ring with 1.63 cts. t.w. diamonds in recycled 18k yellow gold, $7,800, Elizabeth Moore, 212-501-2277, elizabethmoore.com; bracelet with 3.58 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $20,000, Jye’s International;

Katerina bangle with 0.97 ct. t.w. kite-shape diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $20,000, Ruchi New York, 212-6167664, ruchinewyork. com; Moment ring with 3.03 ct. triangle-cut diamond in 18k yellow gold, $72,000, Uniform Object, 239-5794701, uniformobject. com; Inside/Out elongated diamond flip ring with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $5,500, Hearts On Fire

115 Photography by Stephen & Rebecca Styling by Soraya Dayani

RIBBED SCOOP-NECK TANK: THE ROW; FAUX LEATHER TAN PANTS: STAUD

FANCY COLORS, MIXED SHAPES, PAVÉ SETTINGS, CLUSTER DESIGNS—NO MATTER YOUR STYLE, THERE’S A JEWEL TO MATCH YOUR SPARKLE

DRESS: MUGLER

Single Comet ear jewel with 0.75 ct. pear-shape diamond in 18k white gold, €9,500 ($10,259), single Aura ear jewel in 18k rose gold, €2,400 ($2,591), Marie Mas, contact@mariemas. com, mariemas.com; single Floating Bezel ear cuff with 0.55 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $5,300, Shay Jewelry, info@shayjewelry.

com, shayjewelry. com; Duchess earrings with 2.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $11,400, Ashi Couture, couture@ ashidiamonds. com, ashidiamonds. com; Azadi shoulder dusters with 10 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $11,150, Shahla Karimi, 347-927-4647, shahlakarimi.com; Paz tennis necklace with 13.52 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k blackened white gold, $91,200, Marlo Laz, 646-678-3404, marlolaz.com

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Azadi Bombe cluster ring with 2 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $4,490, Shahla Karimi, 347-9274647, shahlakarimi. com; layered baguette band with 5.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $22,995, fancy-cut band with 6.515 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $39,995, Dorian Webb, 510-399-3272, dorianwebb.com; Shiraz 14k Yellow Gold Diamonds 1/2 choker with 1.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, €6,290 ($6,786), Ashaha, contact@ ashaha.com, ashaha. com; Floating Diamonds Crossover high jewelry necklace with 20.9 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, David Yurman,

victoria.rendine@ davidyurman.com, davidyurman.com; Serpens necklace with 6.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $37,000, Nigaam, 212-3915801, nigaam.com; round graduated riviera necklace with 39 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds, $29,995, Sydney ring with 20.24 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, $16,000, Grown Brilliance, 877-476-9627, grownbrilliance.com

diamonds, $27,000, Grown Brilliance, 877-476-9627, grownbrilliance. com; large emerald eternity band with 8 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in white gold, $6,200, large round brilliant tennis necklace with lab-grown diamonds in white gold, $21,000, Vrai, 855-956-4488, vrai. com; necklace with 14 cts. t.w. marquisecut diamonds in 18k white gold, $69,979, Facet Barcelona, 212-302-8200, facetbarcelona. com; Marquise cuff bracelet with 37.4 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $240,000, Dilamani, 516-466-6767, dilamani.com; Milan bracelet with 8.8 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold, $29,040, Vivaan, 212-3020402, vivaan.us

ORGANZA TUNIC TUXEDO SHIRT: VICTORIA BECKHAM

Earrings with 10.11 cts. t.w. Asschercut diamonds in platinum, $304,090, Rahaminov Diamonds, 800-7428864, rahaminov. com; diamondencrusted signet ring with 1.77 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $5,695, Eriness, 310-3218223, eriness.com; Vintage Reimagined ring with 1.08 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k and 18k white gold, $6,000, Just Jules, 480-8606211, justjules.com; oval engagement ring with 12.5 cts. t.w. lab-grown

119 Hoop earrings with 7.99 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $32,500, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com; Genesis linear high jewelry necklace with 26 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, David Yurman, victoria.rendine@ davidyurman. com, davidyurman. com; necklace with 38.09 cts. t.w. fancy shape diamonds in platinum, $300,000, Norman Silverman, 213-687-3985, normansilverman. com; Sydney ring with 20.24 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 18k white gold, $16,000, Grown Brilliance, 877-476-9627, grownbrilliance.com; bracelet with 17.15 cts. t.w. marquisecut diamonds in 18k white gold, $110,000, Norman Silverman

DRESS: AKRIS

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Twinkle earrings with 1.7 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, €9,500 ($10,263), Marie Mas, contact@ mariemas.com, mariemas.com; Diamond Pear Pendant choker with 2.2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $19,800, Shay Jewelry, info@ shayjewelry.com, shayjewelry.com; Studio linear diamond bracelet (worn on arm) with 3.11 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $18,000, Lagos, 877-925-4305,

lagos.com; The Ultimate Diamond Necklace (worn on arm) with lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $6,800, Maya Brenner, 213-627-2756, mayabrenner.com; octagonal baguette pavé ring with 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,085, Doves by Doron Paloma, 516-504-1346, dovesjewelry.com; Unique Wrap ring with 2 ct. marquise lab-grown diamond and 0.18 ct. t.w. pavé lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $5,495, Promise by Effy,

212-944-0020, promisebyeffy. com; Mistral bangle with 1.06 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $12,000, Ruchi New York, 212-616-7664, ruchinewyork.com; Forme Diamond Hexagon cuff with 0.5 ct. diamond in 18k yellow gold, $19,950, Jemma Wynne, 212-9808500, jemmawynne. com; Pavé Shard bracelet with 8.8 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $39,500, Uniform Object, 239-5794701, uniform object.com

GILT TO LAST Photography by Scott Semler

Prop Styling by E m i l y & To n y M u l l i n

WITH THE GOLD PRICE CLIMBING (AND CLIMBING), CUSTOMERS ARE CHOOSIER THAN EVER. THEY’LL WEAR THESE SUPER-SPECIAL JEWELS—INCLUDING COOL CHAINS, HOT COLLARS, AND SINUOUS SNAKES—FOR YEARS TO COME.

The Golden vintage 18k gold collar; $12,500; Mia Moross Fine Jewelry; 917-409-6128; miamoross finejewelry.com

123 (From top) Fishbone Choker in 24k yellow gold; price on request; Menē; service@mene. com; mene.com 22k gold Orion handmade chain necklace with 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds; $30,330; Lika Behar; likabehar@likabehar.com; likabehar.com Hayden chain bracelet in 18k yellow gold; $4,800; Universal Deco; hello@universaldeco.art; universaldeco.art

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(From top) Polished woven and grooved snake collar with red ruby eyes in 18k gold; $16,192; Herco; 800864-0767; herco.com Charlotte large teardrop emerald two-coil textured snake ring in 14k yellow gold; $9,330; Jacquie Aiche; 310-550-7529; jacquieaiche.com Year of the Snake XL Diamond Wrap Big Bead in 14k gold with ceramic interior and 0.376 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds; $2,998; Adina Reyter; wholesale@adinareyter. com; adinareyter.com Impeccable Words Wisdom Key pendant in 18k white and yellow gold with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamonds; $6,810; Ana Katarina; katarina@ anakatarina.com; anakatarina.com

(Clockwise from top) 14k yellow gold and pearl small cobra earrings; $725; Tom Kruskal Designs; 617625-4974; tomkruskaldesigns.com Sorrento 18k yellow gold link hoop earrings with 9 mm–9.5 mm floating freshwater pearls and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,105; Mastoloni; 800-347-3275; mastoloni.com 18k yellow gold teardrop post earrings with freshwater pearls and Crownwork spear drops; $4,455; Ray Griffiths; 212-689-7209; raygriffiths.com

Triple Row Omega necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds; $5,850; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

(Below) 18k yellow gold Ouroboros 15-inch choker; $12,750; Logan Hollowell; logan@ loganhollowell.com; loganhollowell.com

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14k yellow gold handforged wavy bracelets; $1,749–$2,334 each; Tom Kruskal Designs; 617-625-4974; tomkruskaldesigns.com

14k yellow gold polished and diamond-cut wavy 17-inch necklace; $1,762; Herco; 800-864-0767; herco.com

Fluide 14k gold threerow sculptural ring; $2,880; Paige Novick; concierge@paigenovick. com; paigenovick.com

Fall Cult ure n l o l i faashiew frev 25 p 20

Chandelier jewels, from designer Sarah Burton’s debut collection for Givenchy

by Ve n e s s a L a u

I t m a y b e t h e Ye a r o f t h e S n a k e , b u t d o n’t f o r g e t a b o u t t h e c a t s . From fauna to flora, these are the fashion and jewelry trends to watch next season.

ID YOU HEAR that? It’s the ground shifting under your feet. Because—grab on tight— the fashion industry is in a serious state of flux. Fall 2025 saw countless skipped shows, designer vacancies, debuts at major houses as well as swan songs—all heavy hitters, from Calvin Klein, Dries Van Noten, and Givenchy to Versace, Gucci, and Balenciaga. Picture musical chairs, the Benny Hill edition. Maybe that’s why the collections, trendwise, felt discordant and directionless at first. We saw a little something of everything—a few hoops here, delicate bijoux and white-ice styles there—but nothing that felt defining. Then there was the déjà vu. Remember last year’s wave of fringe and brooches? They’re back! And so it went for many of the runways, with designers returning to myriad familiar motifs: leather, strong tailoring, the ladylike. Fashion isn’t immune to outside forces—roller-coaster tariff talks, a cooling of the luxury market—so for many, this may be the safer play, where risk-taking takes a back seat. Or, to reframe things as we await fashion’s next chapter, the breath before the leap. Here’s what did feel fresh for fall: designer musings on femininity and allover embellishment. More on the former later, but as for the latter—get excited. We saw rhinestone “spots” at Altuzarra and Marc Jacobs. Fendi, Michael Kors, and Louis Vuitton sprinkled spangles and baubles on daywear, while Givenchy took the theme even further with a fabulous top collaged from gemstones, pearls, and dangling quartz. So, JCK readers, carpe diem—it’s your moment to shine.

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(OPPOSITE PAGE) GIVENCHY/LAUNCHMETRICS.COM; (THIS PAGE) MOSCHINO: LUCA BRUNOAP

emale power. It’s a look traditionally telegraphed by strong suits and big shoulders: authority by adapting menswear. This season, while there was plenty of that—yes, corpcore keeps going— designers also presented an intriguing new proposition: leaning into the clichés of femininity to take up space, e.g., peplums that make the hips jut out, exaggerated curves, stylized waists, and, if you’re Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu, pointy bullet bras. The greatest of these ladylike tropes in our world? The brooch, of course. It was everywhere and served every which way. Designers doubled down on the feminine factor with beautiful florals, from Carolina Herrera’s elegant golden tulips to Pauline Dujancourt’s crochet rosettes and Tory Burch’s diminutive pavé blooms. Others went abstract and sculptural (Ashlyn), magpie eclectic (Anna Sui), and glam (Toga). Moschino, pictured, was cheeky, natch, with Polaroids of ritzy estate jewelry amusingly fastened onto tops. What also makes this trend so versatile is that customers can easily customize it—a little or a lot. There was no greater example of the maximalist route than the finale at Simkhai, a beaded and sequined gown lavishly covered in antique brooches. The look was so opulent, you couldn’t always tell where the embellishments ended and the bijoux began. Not that it mattered. The effect was simply dazzling.

—1— Layla brooch with lapis and green onyx in 14k gold–plated brass; $440; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

—2— Aurora butterfly brooch in recycled aluminum with lab-created gemstones in 18k gold vermeil; $2,366; Anabela Chan; sales@ anabelachan.com; anabelachan.com

4 5

—3— Jolie lapel pin with pearl glass beads, rhinestones, FSC wood, vegan leather, 18k gold–plated brass, and stainless steel; $145; Saulė; hello@ saulelabel.com; saulelabel.com

—4— Botanical brooch 14k gold–plated bronze with interchangeable assorted silk flowers; $156; Lady Grey; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; ladygreyjewelry.com

—5— Small Eloise brooch in 14k gold– plated brass; $55; Lili Claspe; stephaniem@liliclaspe.com; liliclaspe.com

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—1— Hand-carved and hand-painted Pansy Lucite Vine Collar in Night Pansy; $645; Alexis Bittar; 888-807-7780; alexisbittar.com

—2— Island Flower Garden ear climber with diamonds and pink, orange, and yellow tourmaline in 14k yellow gold; $2,645; Sophie Joanne; contact@ sophiejoanne.com; sophiejoanne.com

5 —3— Tropical Flower duet ring with green tourmaline and peridot in 18k yellow gold; $10,660; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ireneneuwirth. com; ireneneuwirth.com

—4— Enchanted Garden 14k gold and diamond rose charm earrings; $9,500; Sydney Evan; 213-236-4444; sydneyevan.com

—5— Amazonia large purple titanium orchid brooch with 0.84 ct. t.w. diamonds and 18k rose gold; $9,750; Graziela; info@grazielagems.com; grazielagems.com

MODEL: DANIELE OBERRAUCH/LAUNCHMETRICS.COM

nd speaking of femme florals—they blossomed into a major trend by the second half of the collections, providing a lovely counterpoint to a season defined by dressing for the cold. Who didn’t smile when Abra opened with two faux fur coats shaped like giant roses, similar to one of artist Laurie Simmons’ Walking Objects—the models as blooms, with legs sprouting below? Or when Marni sent out a spare gray skirt-suit with a pair of outsize yellow tulips painted on it? “I feel the world is harder and harder—it’s cruel,” explained Caroline Hu of her own dreamy outing of flora-inspired gowns. “So that’s why I wanted to show something more romantic.” It was the same on the jewelry side, where floral finery provided an uplift, like a shot of vitamin D: Miu Miu’s massive gold brooches, Blumarine’s silver earrings (to go with the allover silver appliqués), Valentino’s statement necklaces with puka-shell strands. We especially loved the exquisite electroplated lilies at Ulla Johnson (pictured) on necklaces, bracelets, and rings done in collaboration with artist Julie Hamisky. Dedicated to the memory of Johnson’s mother, the show was inspired by “beauty in fragility,” as the designer wrote in the show notes, “and the delicacy and resilience of nature.”

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MODEL: LAUNCHMETRICS.COM

5 —1— Chains snake fringe cuff in 18k yellow gold; $12,070; Peruffo; massimo@sobeluxury.net; peruffojewelry.com

—2— Dream Catcher pendant with 58.55 cts. t.w. diamonds and 42.52 cts. t.w. zircon in 20k yellow gold; $300,000; Buddha Mama; elizabeth@ theeabproject.com; buddhamama.com

—3— Tassel necklace in 14k gold–plated recycled brass; $625; Christina Caruso; lauren@megamegaprojects. com; christinacaruso.com

ringe has had a surprisingly long shelf life, with no sign of the trend waning for fall. Once again designers were unabashed with the stringy stuff, using it to add drama and dimension to the runways. If you’re wondering why it endures, just look at the countless ways it can be reinvented to avoid feeling one-note. Christopher Esber mined a flamenco inspiration for his Spanish shawl-like fringe. Matières Fécales went elegantly undone in an hourglass bouclé skirt-suit with shredded cuffs and hems. And Jil Sander and Erdem both went glamorous with high-shine black fringe that glittered like a disco ball as the models swished down the runway. (Not so chic: the fringed shoes at the latter, which swept the floor like a microfiber mop.) Plus, the look offers a minimalist mode of decor, best seen at Calvin Klein and Tom Ford—as well as the long, graceful fringe earrings at Alexander McQueen and Tory Burch and the chic shoulder-dusters at Fforme (pictured), which were crafted from worn bowstrings by jewelry designer (and violinist) Alba Navarro Hierro of ANH Studio. Short fringe? We saw that too, in the terrific gold collars at Fendi. That’s the magic of the motif—it commands attention and can turn even the simplest pieces into something unexpected.

—4— I Want a Little Sugar in My Bowl earrings with pearls and 2.58 cts. t.w. black spinel in 18k yellow gold; €13,710 ($14,808); Lito; sales@lito finejewelry.com; litofinejewelry.com

—5— Complement transformable earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $12,500; Macadam; info@voilamacadam. com; voilamacadam.com

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4 5 —1— Mini and Major Caviar pendants with diamonds, $5,500–$10,500, Chubby Chain foundation necklace, 18k gold, $22,250; Harwell Godfrey; mark@ markdluxury.com; harwellgodfrey.com

—2— Extra Large Heart pendants in moonstone, tiger’s eye, and turquoise; $3,500–$4,000 each (chain sold separately); Renna; hello@ rennajewels.com; rennajewels.com

—3— Moon Duo cord charm necklace with white topaz and suede cord in 14k yellow gold vermeil; $420; Awe Inspired; lauren@megamega projects.com; aweinspired.com

—4— Tiny Beaded 14k Gold Necklace in Pearl with one-of-a-kind Fine Mood necklace charms; $2,350; Lizzie Fortunato; 718-290-5373; lizziefortunato.com

—5— Pink coral, lapis, turquoise, and malachite stone mariner link charms on leather cord with diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $9,900; Jenna Blake; info@jennablake.com; jennablake.com

MODEL: JONAS GUSTAVSSON/SIPA/AP

hanks to Chemena Kamali’s rousing debut at Chloé exactly one year ago, boho is very much alive. And with all that romance and free-spirited femininity—there’s that f-word again—comes the inevitable ’70s yen for charmed treasures. So there they were, amid the frills, lace, and floaty fabrics, at Kamali’s latest outing, swinging from bags, belts, and long, layered pendant necklaces. We spotted them at Burberry, where Daniel Lee gave the iconic trench a bohemian makeover in gorgeous ikat and magnificent fringe, and again at Zimmermann, with tinkling jingle bells, worn with billowing dresses inspired by Picnic at Hanging Rock, a film set in the 1900s. Donatella Versace and Marine Serre went all in on medallion charms, with Serre even commissioning her own coin from the Paris mint. And here’s a trend within a trend: chatelaine chains, seen at both Prada and Chloé (pictured). The style delights for more than just its decorative appeal. It can be emotional, personal, and full of meaning, as Undercover’s Jun Takahashi beautifully captured. His show, which revisited an earlier collection, was a poetic meditation on the passage of time. The opening look: a soft, seemingly weathered jacket trimmed with dangling gold feathers, spoons, and miniature hands. Charms or keepsakes? We’d call them both.

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t’s a C ow Me

MODEL: SHEILA GALLERANI/MONDADORI PORTFOLIO/SIPA/AP

here was much ado about fur’s comeback for fall 2025, but that wasn’t the only beastly trend to take over; designers went wild for animal prints, too. You name it, we saw it—sometimes all in one show, like Duran Lantink’s fantastic outing that combined extreme silhouettes with a menagerie of zebra, cow, cheetah, and snakeskin patterns (with some camo thrown in for good measure). Other highlights included Brandon Maxwell’s body-skimming dress in blurry Bambi spots and Gabriela Hearst’s bonded python tailoring—ethically sourced, by the way, from an invasive Florida species. The leader of the pack was undoubtedly the big-cat prints like cheetah and tiger, with leopard reigning supreme. While the look overlaps nicely with the larger ladylike moment (hello, brooches), we saw abundant twists on it as well—from Saint Laurent’s transparent, siliconeslicked tops to Versace’s engineered prints to Collina Strada’s pretty leopard-like florals. When it comes to jewelry, there’s ample room to get creative here, whether you opt for, say, the tiger-print pavé chain links at Roberto Cavalli (pictured) or the fierce double-fang earrings at Balmain. Consider it another spin on the season’s strength-in-femininity refrain: “I am woman, hear me roar.”

—1— Signature 14k yellow gold diamond spot pendant; $3,595; Effy; 877-2753339; effyjewelry.com

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—2— Lucky Cat diamond charm in 18k yellow gold; $7,940; Boochier; hello@boochier.com; boochier.com

—3— Blue Wildcat ring in 14k gold with diamond, emerald, multicolored sapphires, and lapis lazuli; $2,475; Scosha; info@ scosha.com; scosha.com

—4— Women’s Leopard multifunction 38 mm watch in stainless steel; $200; Guess; 800-2GUESS5; guesswatches.com

—5— Soho diamond cocktail ring with white, black, and brown diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $21,845; Lionheart; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; lionheartjewelry.com

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R I EA PT

R E S

2 OUR SIN CITY CORRESPONDENT HAS PUT TOGETHER PLENTY OF IDEAS TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME AT J C K L A S V E G A S 2 0 2 5

by Matt Villano

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AS VEGAS, LIKE the best of us, is always evolving. The self-proclaimed Entertainment Capital of the World is constantly adding new restaurants, new diversions, and new spectacles to behold. One of the benefits of having the annual JCK show in Sin City is that participants and organizers alike get to tap out of show programming and tap into the current of change that defines the local zeitgeist. Year after year, once we leave the proceedings at The Venetian Resort, the toughest question is: How am I going to spend my free time? Below are some ideas you might want to consider.

1: LVCVA; 2: CAESARS ENTERTAINMENT; 6: CLINT JENKINS; 8: LAS VEGAS GRAND PRIX

CLOSE TO HOME

1. The shapeliest landmark on Las Vegas Boulevard, the Sphere. 2. Another celebrity chef entry: Gordon Ramsay Burger, at the Flamingo. 3. Grab and go or sip a whiskey and relax at The Venetian Resort’s Nomikai.

4. The Venetian welcomes L.A. restaurant Gjelina. 5. Voltaire, The Venetian’s decadent cocktail lounge. 6. Stubborn Seed, from Michelin-starred chef Jeremy Ford, at Resorts World. 7. The Venetian’s serene Pool Deck. 8, 13. The immersive Grand Prix Plaza, a racing fan’s dream.

Because JCK attendees and exhibitors spend so much time in The Venetian Resort, it’s important to know all about the latest and greatest options there. Thankfully, there’s lots to keep you busy. No. 1 on everyone’s list: Nomikai, a Japanese restaurant that is one part sushi counter and one part speakeasy (the name is a mash-up of the Japanese words for “to drink” and “to gather”). The counter is the domain of chef Setsuji Mitsui, who specializes in hand rolls and nigiri. Items are made to order and intended to be enjoyed on-site; for guests who’d rather grab their food and go to the Sphere or the convention center, takeaway options are available. The speakeasy, which has notably less pomp and circumstance than other Vegas speakeasies, offers an extensive sake and Japanese whiskey collection as well as an innovative cocktail program. Elsewhere on property, The Venetian Resort recently welcomed the first Las Vegas outpost of Gjelina, a beloved Venice Beach restaurant in Los Angeles famous for its produce-forward farm-to-table cuisine. The eatery is open for brunch, lunch, and dinner, and if you try only one item on the menu, make sure it’s the addictive anchovy and burrata toast with house-made peperonata, parsley, and olive oil.

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STRIP SEARCH Other casino resorts on the Las Vegas Strip have rolled out new venues and attractions in the last few months. At The Linq, Spiegelworld —the same theater company behind Absinthe and (the now-defunct) OPM —has introduced DiscoShow, a bodacious musical that celebrates the birth and rise of disco. The show is great fun and is fascinating as an art form. The venue has no seats; instead, guests are encouraged to dance and interact with performers as the

story unfolds. The show also is home to a restaurant and two bars: One bar, 99 Prince, resembles a 1980s New York City subway station, while the Diner Ross restaurant has a 1970s theme and serves dishes such as meatloaf and chicken schnitzel. Big changes also are—pardon the pun—taking flight just south along Las Vegas Boulevard, at the Flamingo Las Vegas. In January, the hotel-casino welcomed two new celebrity restaurants: Gordon Ramsay Burger, the seventh local restaurant from chef Gordon Ramsay, and Pinky’s by Vanderpump, owned by the inimitable TV star and philanthropist Lisa Vanderpump. While the former spot is casual, the latter is over-the-top swanky, complete with a gilded ceiling, dishes that come in golden birdcages, and craft cocktails galore. MGM Grand has tapped into the TV universe with its latest restaurant, too: The new Netflix Bites is a café with a menu of food and drinks based entirely on Netflix programming. One dish, inspired by Squid Game, features chicken tenders, red and green dipping sauces, and a wheel you must spin to see which sauce you get.

DOWNTOWN DALLIANCES Las Vegas is more than just the Strip. The Arts District, a neighborhood that is part of downtown, continues to play host to some of the hottest spots in town. It’s no secret that the best Italian restaurant in Las Vegas is 13 Esther’s Kitchen, a hip Italian joint that serves pizzas, pastas, and other dishes—all made from scratch. In 2024, the restaurant added an ultra-exclusive cocktail lounge in an upstairs loft that overlooks the dining room. The Treehaus bar is a great spot for an after-dinner digestif. At the beginning of 2025, James Trees, the owner of Esther’s,

11: PARI DUKOVIC/SPIEGELWORLD

Sadly, the resort’s much-anticipated Via Via food hall will not be open in time for the JCK event. When it does open, this will be the site of the only Las Vegas Strip location of All’Antico Vinaio, a cult-favorite Italian sandwich shop that started in Florence in the early 1990s. Keep it on your radar for next year (or any time after Aug. 1). To the north, inside Resorts World Las Vegas, chef Jeremy Ford (who won Top Chef Season 13) has opened an outpost of Stubborn Seed, his Michelin-starred restaurant from Miami. The eatery offers one of the only chef-driven tasting menus in town. Guests have the option of elevating the experience with three additional courses and/or a wine pairing that incorporates six wines from regions all over the world. One standout dish during Stubborn Seed’s opening week was the sake-and-citrus–cured Japanese yellowtail, served with crispy tapioca, compressed Asian pear, and a passion fruit buttermilk emulsion. It was paired with Dassai 45 Junmai Daiginjo sake. Of course, another huge attraction near The Venetian is the Sphere —the most technologically sophisticated concert venue in the world. Country star Kenny Chesney will perform on select dates throughout the month of June, including shows on June 6 and 7, just as JCK is getting started.

LAS VEGAS

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floor, complete with two new bars and a new restaurant. The slot floor and main table-games pit remain the best places to spot gambling influencers filming for their various social media channels.

OTHER COOL STUFF

14: ANGELO CLINTON; 16: BRAD EVENSON PHOTOGRAPHY; 17: MIKE KIRSCHBAUM

opened another cocktail bar just south on Main Street. Petite Boheme specializes in modern spins on classic French cock-

tails. The signature drink, J’Accuse, combines apple brandy, amaro, and absinthe; mixologists light the absinthe on fire before pouring the other ingredients into the hot glass. Another newcomer to the Arts District: Doberman Drawing Room, which opened this spring. The menu here has been developed by Juyoung Kang, a mixology oracle who has built other programs around the city at places including Here Kitty Kitty Vice Den inside Resorts World Las Vegas, and the Fontainebleau Las Vegas resort. Kang is renowned for inventive drinks, and she delivers in the new digs. If you have just one, go for the Tom Kha Fizza, which combines gin, lime, and bird’s eye chili with cream, coconut, and egg whites. On the other side of downtown, the circa 1941 El Cortez Hotel & Casino recently unveiled a huge expansion to its casino

9. Stranger Things– and Squid Game– inspired plates at Netflix Bites. 10–11. The NYC subway–themed 99 Prince and the interactive DiscoShow at The Linq. 11–12. The fiery cocktail bar Petite Boheme, from the owners of Esther’s Kitchen. 14. Can’t-miss drinks at Doberman Drawing Room downtown. 15. The Bravolebritybacked Pinky’s by Vanderpump. 16. Food and fun venue Chicken N Pickle, living up to its name. 17. Mini-golf lovers meet at Swingers Las Vegas.

No discussion about what’s new in Las Vegas would be complete without mentioning other fun destinations and attractions. Perhaps the quirkiest is the latest addition to Area15, the immersive entertainment playground just west of Interstate 15. This attraction, dubbed Dopeameme, is a 30-minute adventure with physical challenges specifically designed to provide participants with real-life dopamine hits. The result, as one might expect, leaves everyone happy. Other newcomers revolve around sports. The first has technically been in Las Vegas since 2023: It’s Grand Prix Plaza, home to the Formula One Las Vegas Grand Prix each November. Except for race week, the Plaza has been off-limits to laypeople for the last two years. Starting in late March, however, the facility opened to the public with an interactive exhibition, race simulators, and more. The most exhilarating experience: F1 Drive, where guests can ride electric karts on the Formula One course at speeds of up to 29 mph. The second sports-centric experience, Swingers Las Vegas, comprises four mini-golf courses, an arcade, and two bars in a cavernous space that had another life as the Rumjungle nightclub at Mandalay Bay. Each course features nine holes as well as little tables to rest cocktails while you swing. Finally, Chicken N Pickle in nearby Henderson combines two of America’s favorite pastimes: fried chicken and pickleball. The venue features dining areas on two levels, a sports bar, six indoor and eight covered outdoor pickleball courts, a dog park, beer gardens, and yard games including Ping-Pong, shuffleboard, cornhole, Battleship, Jenga Giant, and more. Kansas City Chiefs stars Patrick Mahomes and Travis Kelce are among the investors behind this growing chain, which has locations in Kansas City, Mo.; Oklahoma City; and Glendale, Ariz., to name a few. The dynamic duo might not have achieved a three-peat at the Super Bowl this year, but this place is a surefire winner.

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A Century of Jewelry

by Victoria Gomelsky

AT T H E 2 0 2 5 L U X U RY A N D J C K S H OW S , Y O U ’ L L F I N D ECHOES OF THE PAST 100 YEARS OF DESIGN REIMAGINED F O R P R E S E N T - D AY B U Y E R S A N D F U T U R E C O L L E C TO R S

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1. Ring with 6.63 ct. spinel and 1.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $29,010; Yael Designs 2. Art deco–inspired earrings with emeralds and diamonds in 18k white gold; $23,500; Nigaam / 3. Helios earrings in 18k yellow gold with 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,350; Doves by Doron Paloma / 4. Pendant with 2.375 ct. Mint Julep Quartz and 0.66 ct. t.w. Nude Diamonds in 14k Honey Gold; $2,498; Le Vian / 5. One-of-a-kind 18k yellow gold diamond, emerald, and lemon quartz ring; price on request; Lali Jewels / 6. 16-inch strand with 6 mm akoya pearls; $2,355; Mastoloni 7. Timeless pendant with rough natural aquamarine, bezeled teardrop aquamarine, and diamonds on yellow gold; price on request; Just Jules

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In 1925,

CALVIN COOLIDGE, THE 30th president of the United States, delivered the first-ever national radio broadcast of an inauguration; F. Scott Fitzgerald published his novel The Great Gatsby; and the Scopes “Monkey Trial” in Tennessee highlighted the conflict between science and religion. It was also the year of the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris, which the British historian Bevis Hillier had in mind when he coined the term art deco in the 1960s. In hindsight, the exhibition, now regarded as the apex of a geometric and diamond-centric style that had been building for years, marked the first time a 10-year period became so closely associated with a distinct aesthetic. As the century wore on, each passing decade introduced jewelers to a new design language, in reaction to changing styles and mores as well as the impact of world events. This year, the JCK show will be flashing back to the decades between the 1920s and the present day with a series of thematic lounges, beginning at the registration area and extending throughout the show. We couldn’t resist a nostalgic look at the jewels that defined those years and the contemporary exhibitors who emulate the periods’ signature styles today. Because if the past has taught us anything, it’s that one era’s out-of-date colors and motifs are another era’s inspiration—rinse, rethink, and repeat.

8. Sterling silver archival Naga cuff; John Hardy / 9. Vintage heirloom 18k white gold pin with natural green jade stones and diamond accents; $4,500; Mason-Kay 10. Ring with 6.22 ct. oval Australian natural opal and 1.18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Parlé 11. Soie earrings with 4.74 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $20,000; Ruchi New York

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1920s: ART DECO Distinguished by a purity of expression that all but screams “modernity,” art deco jewelry is known for its angular silhouettes, white-on-white settings featuring diamonds mounted in platinum, and graphic use of gemstones in contrasting hues, including emeralds, rubies, onyx, and rock crystal. (See photos 1, 2, 4)

1930s: ART MODERNE Also known as streamline moderne, this style came to the fore in the 1930s, when the hard-edged forms of art deco gave way to the curving, streamlined aesthetics of ships, trains, and airplanes in homage to the dawn of the Machine Age. Pearls in long swinging strands first popularized by the flappers of the 1920s were especially popular. (See photos 6, 7)

1940s: RETRO The retro period aesthetic stood in sharp contrast to the deco era. Due to wartime restrictions on platinum, jewelers turned out bold gold designs—often in a reddish hue, owing to the copper-heavy alloys of the day. Clip brooches and transformable jewels were hallmarks of the period, as were semiprecious gems (think citrine, topaz, amethysts, and aquamarines) from South America, which, unlike Asia (with its bounty of rubies and sapphires), remained largely unaffected by war. (See photos 3, 5)

12. Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Luminary ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds; $8,750; Sunlight Premier by Ferris / 13. Wings of Fantasy earrings with hand-set marquise diamonds; Rahaminov Diamonds 14. Aurelia earrings with 0.77 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $3,200; Vlora / 15. Signature 14k yellow gold, sapphire, and diamond panther bracelet; $6,835; Effy

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1950s: MID-CENTURY Gold jewelry characterized by twists, tassels, and textures. Small diamonds set in clusters or “spray” designs. Matchy-matchy sets. The 1950s were defined by their postwar exuberance, and the jewelry reflected that in ornate, gem-set styles, from brooches to ear clips. (See photos 9, 13)

1960s: EXOTIC The prim and proper ’50s gave way to a more louche 1960s style that boasted a bevy of exotic influences, from India to outer space, while the decade’s social upheaval translated into designs heavy on asymmetry and experimentation. Meanwhile, the popularity of hard stones (coral, chalcedony, and turquoise, to name a few) and cabochon-cut gems introduced a new color palette into the mix. (See photos 10, 12)

1970s: BOHEMIAN Offbeat and organic materials such as wood played on the 1970s’ bohemian tendencies. Sinewy gold chains and mesh pieces revealed the rising popularity of disco. A newfound emphasis on sculpture and design signaled a shift in mindset that would give birth to the designer jewelry movement in the decades to come. (See photos 8, 11)

1980s: BOLD GOLD The power suit that ruled 1980s fashion demanded bigger and bolder accessories, which explains why oversize hoop earrings, thick gold chains, and stacks of bracelets—à la Madonna’s “Material Girl”—were the look of the day. (See photos 14, 15) 16. 18k gold large diamond pavé Initial pendant; $7,850; Dorian Webb 17. 2018 AGTA Spectrum Award–winning three-stone 7.17 cts. t.w. padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring; Omi Privé 18. Small Inside/Out Diamond Link earrings in 18k yellow gold; $6,800; Hearts On Fire 19. 24k gold multi-charm necklace; price on request; Ara Collection

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1990s: MINIMALISM Partly in reaction to the gilded excesses of the previous decade, the 1990s saw simpler, sleeker silver designs; dainty jewels; and flea market finds (think leather chokers) rise to the fore, as two design movements—minimalism and grunge— competed for consumer souls. By decade’s end, however, the nameplate necklace, as seen on Sarah Jessica Parker’s Carrie Bradshaw character in HBO’s influential Sex and the City, was the quintessential get. (See photos 16, 20)

EARLY 2000s: Y2K Like the pop-inspired ballads and high energy disco songs that ruled the early aughts, the period’s jewelry was light, colorful, and fun—beaded bracelets, smiley faces, and butterflies galore. (See photos 19, 21) 20. Orbit cord bracelets with silver and 18k yellow gold–plated silver drop; $95–$110 each; PDPaola 21. 14k gold Popcorn petite butterfly dangle earrings; $795; Phillip Gavriel for Royal Chain 22. Joyce earrings with spinel, tourmaline, beryl, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $5,060; Lauren K 23. White ceramic heart bracelet with matte 18k rose gold heart; $850; Roberto Demeglio

2010s: COLOR-CENTRIC The growing appeal of diverse and colorful materials, from sliced diamonds to gems once labeled “semiprecious,” such as opals and morganite, represented an important distinction of jewelry style circa the ’10s. Innovative designs crafted according to the highest standards, even those incorporating nonprecious materials like ceramic, would reign supreme. (See photos 17, 23)

2020s: TBD The aesthetic of the ’20s is still a work in progress. But if we had to predict what jewelry historians of the future might say about it, we’d bet on gold, diamonds, and tons of wild and offbeat colored stones. (See photos 18, 22)

Histoire de Style “Untamed Nature” Bourdon ring with onyx, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, pavé diamonds, and black lacquer in 18k white gold; Boucheron

Boucheron’s NYC store is a (sparkly) stone’s throw from such luxe jewelry brands as De Beers, Kwiat, and Graff.

Histoire de Style “Untamed Nature” Fuchsia brooch with pavé diamonds in 18k white gold; Boucheron

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LET’S GET PHYSICAL

A CLUTCH OF LUXURY JEWELRY B R A N D S H AV E O P E N E D B R I C K - A N D M O RTA R L O C AT I O N S H E R E , T H E R E , A N D EVERY WHERE. IS THE TRADITIONAL R E TA I L M O D E L H AV I N G A R E N A I S S A N C E ?

by Amy Elliott

“I

F YOU REMEMBER one thing about the future of selling jewelry, it is the importance of crafting a digital-first strategy.” That was JCK ’s hot take in 2021. But a lot has changed since the pandemic. Over the last year or so, a flurry of jewelry store openings—including new FoundRae boutiques in Los Angeles, New York City, and Miami; an Irene Neuwirth store on Madison Avenue in New York City; and a David Yurman boutique in Miami—has challenged the received wisdom about how retail will evolve in the 21st century. But don’t abandon your website just yet. “You do have to ramp up your online presence because approximately 85% of shoppers start their shopping experience online,” says Sherry Smith, director of business development at Edge Retail Academy, a consulting firm focused on jewelry retailers. “But for jewelry, the data continues to support and project that customers will always prefer to buy in a brick-and-mortar environment.” Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO of Boucheron—which opened a flagship on Madison Avenue in New York last fall, followed by a new storefront in Las Vegas at the Fontainebleau resort in December (and more on the way)— sees a correlation between online and in-store sales. “The more e-commerce grows, the more important physical retail becomes,” she tells JCK. “During COVID, everyone told me that retail would disappear. But one channel won’t eradicate the other. The future of luxury is not about choosing between digital and physical, but about understanding how they complement each other.”

Designer Sophie Bille Brahe in her minimalist, Scandiinspired Upper East Side boutique; (r.) her Coeur Madison ring; (top) her Amoureux Madison ring

“We have been testing the U.S. market for the past few years, and we noticed increasing demand from our customers there.” —SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE

“Customers in Aspen want to establish relationships with the stores there.”

(Below) Tiffany & Co.’s 7,500-squarefoot Dallas NorthPark Center store, which opened in October; the brand’s Taipei 101 flagship opened in Taiwan in March.

36 mm Rolex in 18k yellow gold with turquoise diamondset dial and pavé diamond bezel; Avi & Co.

Platinum and 18k gold ring with 50.11 ct. cushion-cut fancy yellow diamond and 2.5 cts. t.w. diamond pavé; Avi & Co.

great it is,” founder and CEO Avi Hiaeve says. And even though the ski resort town is a tourist destination, “customers in Aspen want to establish relationships with the stores there— for people to know them when they walk in the door,” he says. “An added bonus is that many of Aspen’s visitors come back year after year.”

HOT SPOTS

BRAND BUILDING

Nearly all the brand representatives JCK interviewed for this story said they opened stores in key markets in response to data confirming an existing base of qualified customers (or the high potential to capture them). “We have been testing the U.S. market for the past few years, and we noticed a high, increasing demand from our customers there,” says Sophie Bille Brahe, a Danish designer who opened an eponymous boutique on Madison Avenue in November. New York, in particular, was a long-held dream, she says, and the historic townhouses on Manhattan’s Upper East Side were well suited to Brahe’s vision of a “Scandinavian palazzo where customers could enter my world and have a similar experience as in Copenhagen.” Avi & Co., a watch brand with retail locations in New York and Miami, saw a unique opportunity in Aspen, Colo., and opened a storefront there in February. “Over the years, many of our friends and customers have mentioned how

Physical expansion also can be an invaluable brand-building tactic, even for well-known heritage jewelers. “Part of it is, ‘How do I gain more market share? How do I stand out and stay top of mind?’ ” Smith says. “And that brand awareness is important because it doesn’t just propel the brand forward in the DTC [direct-to-consumer] space; it’s also going to propel it with its retail partners.” When your omnichannel strategy utilizes e-commerce and social media to drive customers to a store, the physical space effectively becomes an IRL—in real life—platform for visual storytelling and intimate product interactions. With a brick-and-mortar location, “clients can experience the weight of a bracelet, the texture of woven chains, and the beauty of handcrafted details in a way that simply can’t be replicated online,” says Jan-Patrick Schmitz, president and CEO of John Hardy, which opened a second NYC location in Rockefeller Center last fall.

DALLAS NORTHPARK CENTER: COURTESY OF TIFFANY & CO. (3)

—AVI HIAEVE, AVI & CO.

(R.) Spinelli Kilcollin’s SoHo store; (far r.) the brand’s Petunia SG ring in sterling silver with gray diamonds and 18k gold

“Transitioning to a dedicated storefront became a necessary next step, while also giving us the chance to infuse the space with personal artwork and design concepts.”

Boucheron’s physical retail presence is its primary focus, according to Poulit-Duquesne. “Think of our physical stores as providing the intimate family-spirit atmosphere that Boucheron is known for—with our signature round tables, curated art pieces, and the perfect blend of art deco and Parisian architectural codes,” she says. “The emotional and personal nature of jewelry purchasing often requires the kind of intimate experience that only our boutiques can provide.”

GROWTH MINDSET For a small, independent jewelry brand, the opening of a flagship is often a tactical response to a period of rapid growth. Los Angeles–based Spinelli Kilcollin recently faced this scenario as it outgrew its New York City space. Plus, what was originally a private showroom began to attract an “overwhelming influx of walk-ins who would see our sign from the street or find us on Google maps,” says Dwyer Kilcollin (pictured, above right, with cofounder Yves Spinelli). So in February, she and Spinelli opened an art gallery–like flagship in the SoHo neighborhood in New York City. “Transitioning to a dedicated storefront became a necessary next step, allowing for a seamless walk-in experience while also giving us the chance to infuse the space with personal artwork and design concepts,” Spinelli adds. For the Brazilian jewelry brand Sauer, establishing a strong presence in the United States was a logical next step after testing the waters at Bergdorf Goodman and Moda Operandi. The jeweler landed on a quiet stretch of Madison Avenue, and the plan is to take it slow. “The Madison Avenue location is our first U.S. home and made the most sense as we are a niche jeweler, not a mass-production jeweler,” coCEO Gabriel Sauer says. “Since we are a family business, we don’t feel the pressure to open stores all over the place.”

—YVES SPINELLI

(R.) Sauer creative director Stephanie Wenk and co-CEO Gabriel Sauer; (below r.) the brand’s mid-century modern NYC store

Gisela malachite pendant with emerald in 18k yellow gold; Sauer

jewelers’ choice awards

Di a m o n ds a re a ret a i l er’s b es t f riend ! Co ngra t u la t io ns to Norman Silverman on its grand prize–winning yellow di a m o n d c o l l a r a n d t o a ll o f t his yea r’s v ict o rs .

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Jewelers’ Choice Awards

$2,500 & UNDER

14k gold Bujukan pavé diamond split bangle bracelet; $1,925; gabrielny.com

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$10,001–$50,000

Multi-Shape Bailey bangle with 2.85 cts. t.w. emerald-, marquise-, and pear-shape diamonds; $14,990; shycreation.com

$2,501–$10,000

14k white and yellow gold Bujukan diamond link split bangle bracelet; $4,950; gabrielny.com

3 Best Bracelet

OVER $50,000

Neon Elysian Elegance bracelet with 14.55 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds and 9.33 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k white gold; $80,000; neongems.com

EDITORS’ & INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Ocean Symphony cuff with 17.97 cts. t.w. aquamarines, 23.16 cts. t.w. tanzanite, and 5.21 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $57,396; stevenroyce.com

150 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Best Earring

$5,000 & UNDER (TIE)

14k white and yellow gold radiant fan diamond-cut and cluster diamond stud earrings; $1,800; gabrielny.com

$5,000 & UNDER (TIE)

Multi-Gemstone Dangle earrings with natural peridot and lab-grown emeralds in 14k yellow gold; $2,505; stuller.com

$5,001–$10,000

Earrings with Tahitian pearls, Montana sapphires, green jade, and diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $8,695; parlegems.com

EDITORS’ & INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

$10,001–$30,000

Cascading Diamond Waterfall earrings in 18k white gold with 14.69 cts. t.w. round and fancyshape diamonds; $28,000; neongems.com

OVER $30,000

Burst of Brilliance earrings with oval-, marquise-, and pear-shape diamonds; $108,000; rahaminov.com

151

GenderNeutral INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

EDITORS’ CHOICE

ALL PRICE POINTS

14k gold Geo Cut necklace with 0.15 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds; $825; shycreation.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

ALL PRICE POINTS

Element ring in platinum with fancy-cut, fancy natural colored diamond center stone and diamond accents; $16,500; @ricardobastajewelry (Instagram)

14k yellow gold brooch with 7.5 ct. hand-carved Mexican fire opal rose; $11,245; parlegems.com

Colored Diamond Jewelry

Two Hearts, One Sparkle earrings with 12.02 cts. t.w. fancy light yellow pear-shape diamonds, 0.33 ct. t.w. round diamonds, 1.14 cts. t.w. pear-shape diamonds, and 0.44 ct. t.w. marquise diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold; $398,025; uneekjewelry.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring with 2.03 ct. pear-shape modified brilliant natural fancy yellow diamond, 1.04 cts. t.w. round brilliant colorless diamonds, and 0.92 ct. t.w. round brilliant fancy yellow diamonds; $54,000; pomposjewelry.com

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Best Necklace

$5,001–$10,000

Busy Bee brooch-pendant with 2.6 ct. Australian opal and 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,695; parlegems.com

$5,000 & UNDER

Celestial medallion necklace with 7.74 ct. black onyx crescent moon and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds on faceted ball chain; $2,100; shycreation.com

OVER $30,000

Blush Radiance necklace with 32.48 cts. t.w. fancy-shape fancy pink diamonds and 12.58 cts. t.w. round colorless diamonds in 18k white and rose gold; $110,000; neongems.com

Wrapped in a Bow statement necklace with Movál-cut diamonds; $166,180; rahaminov.com

$10,001–$30,000

Art nouveau–inspired necklace in 18k gold with 3.64 ct. pear-shape aquamarine, 0.28 ct. blue sapphire, and 1.19 cts. t.w. diamonds; $15,563; yaeldesigns.com

GRAND

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Gold Teardrop choker necklace with 72.41 cts. t.w. bezel-set pear-shape fancy yellow diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $800,000; normansilverman.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Jewelers’ Choice Awards

22 EDITORS’ CHOICE

153

Men’s Jewelry

Best Wedding

$2,500 & UNDER

Anchor bangle in sterling silver with black diamond; $2,126; alameahawaii.com

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

T-Rex brooch with 14.78 ct. Australian boulder opal in 14k yellow gold; $11,345; parlegems.com

EDITORS’ & INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

22 24

UNDER $2,500 $2,501–$10,000

Olivetta tapered diamond engagement ring with 0.5 ct. t.w. round and pear-shape diamonds; $2,390 (without center stone); brilliantearth.com

Rose Thorn lab diamond engagement ring with 0.625 ct. t.w. micro-pavé lab-grown diamonds; $4,830; brilliantearth.com

OVER $10,000

Mauve Dream platinum and 18k yellow gold ring with 6.04 ct. cushion-cut Burmese mauve spinel, 0.28 ct. t.w. half-moon diamonds, 0.82 ct. t.w. pear-shape diamonds, and 0.44 ct. t.w. round brilliant-cut diamonds; $35,000; aggems.com

Ring with 4.61 ct. oval purple sapphire and 1.25 cts. t.w. oval and round diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold prongs; $49,196; yaeldesigns.com

23 25

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

The Flame Within platinum ring with 19.82 ct. cushion-cut zircon, emerald-cut emerald side stones, and melee diamonds; $45,000; @ricardobastajewelry (Instagram)

154 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

$850 & UNDER

$851–$1,000

Sterling silver mother-of-pearl and lab-grown diamond pendant; $575; alameahawaii.com

Aleera lock necklace in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $895; shycreation.com

Faceted and gold bead heart-shape stud earrings with diamond accents; $495; shycreation.com

Vintage-style opal and diamond Fleur De Lis earrings in 14k yellow gold; $909; angara.com

Best Price Point

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Pearl Jewelry

33 34 35

$5,000 & UNDER

Diamond and cultured pearl crescent moon and star necklace; $1,100; shycreation.com

OVER $5,000 (TIE)

Pearl Whirl necklace with spinning half Tahitian green pearl and half 18k yellow gold sphere in 18k white gold and diamond halo frame; $16,000; thinkrogers.com

OVER $5,000 (TIE)

Handcrafted South Sea Golden Curva ring in custom alloy 18k yellow gold with South Sea golden pearl; $8,000; vanessa-fernandez.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

35 34 EDITORS’ & INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

156 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Best Ring

$2,500 & UNDER

Contemporary Organic Curve engagement ring with hidden halo and polished shank; $1,500 (without center stone); newb2b.fgoldman.com

$2,501–$5,000

Two-Tone Diamond Teardrop ring in 14k gold; $3,400; shycreation.com

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE)

18k white and yellow gold diamond bypass ring; $8,600; gabrielny.com

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE)

Radiant Mirage ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.62 cts. t.w. alexandrite and 0.19 ct. t.w. diamonds; $7,622; izicreations.com

Midnight Ember ring with 2.54 ct. natural fancy oval diamond and baguette and round diamond accents in 18k white and yellow gold; $28,000; neongems.com

OVER $30,000

Ornata Ophidia Rose Duo 14k gold snake ring with blue sapphires; $3,500; @idesfinejewel (Instagram) Paradoxal Eternal Flow ring in rose gold with diamonds; $48,000; schaffrath1923.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

$10,001–$30,000

Tailored Tourmalines ring with 12.87 cts. t.w. cut-corner rectangular tourmaline and 1.5 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $35,675; uneekjewelry.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

158 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

$5,000 & UNDER

Auravie Two-Tone ring in 14k gold with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,130; sylviejewelry.com

Best Statement Piece

48 EDITORS’ CHOICE

Mixed Metal Jewelry

EDITORS’ CHOICE

$10,000–$50,000

Inside, Outside, Upside Down platinum ring with 11.96 ct. Movàl-cut imperial topaz and 2.46 cts. t.w. diamonds; $155,000; @ricardobastajewelry (Instagram)

$50,001–$100,000

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

OVER $100,000 (TIE)

14k yellow gold diamond-cut cuff bangle with diamonds; $10,500; gabrielny.com

Drop of Dew necklace with 1.02 ct. pear-shape diamond, 19.63 cts. t.w. fancy colored pear-shape diamonds, and 3.67 cts. t.w. round diamonds in two-tone 18k white and yellow gold; $70,000; neongems.com

OVER $100,000 (TIE)

One-of-a-kind cuff bracelet with 37.67 cts. t.w. color-change garnets; 9.08 cts. t.w. gray, blue, and pink spinel; and 5.49 cts. t.w. mixed-shape diamonds in 18k black rhodium–plated gold; $138,000; yaeldesigns.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

OVER $5,000

Dual Radiance bracelet with mixed-shape white and yellow diamonds in white and yellow gold; $258,000; rahaminov.com

EVERY STONE HAS A STORY. OURS BEGINS WITH RESPONSIBILITY. Through trusted partnerships with responsible mining communities — from tourmalines in Brazil to sapphires in Montana and emeralds in Africa — each Harmony Gemstone by Hoover & Strong reﬂects our deep commitment to ethical sourcing and sustainable practices. With a transparent, traceable journey and respect for both people and planet, our conﬂict-free diamonds and gems are as conscientious as they are beautiful. Choose stones responsibly. Choose Hoover & Strong.

Read the stories on our website.

Sapphires from Montana

Tourmalines, Emeralds and Aquamarines from Zambia

Tourmalines from Cruzeiro Mine, Brazil

Garnets, Rhodolites and Tsavorites from Kenya

MADE IN THE

SINCE 1912

www.hooverandstrong.com

info@hooverandstrong.com

800-759-9997

160 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Diamond Jewelry

OVER $10,000

$5,000 & UNDER

9.46 cts. t.w. Diamond Link necklace; $22,600; shycreation.com

Easy stackable ladies’ ring in 14k white and yellow gold with diamonds; $3,400; gabrielny.com

$5,001–$10,000

Diamond Twist croissant bangle with 1.33 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 14k gold; $6,800; shycreation.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Barre Floating Diamond choker; $50,000; heartsonfire.com

Handcrafted Curva Twist ring with 4.01 ct. elongated oval diamond in custom alloy 18k yellow gold; $70,000; vanessa-fernandez.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

162 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Gold Jewelry

$2,500 & UNDER

14k yellow gold diamond-cut wing-shape pendant necklace; $1,175; gabrielny.com

OVER $2,500

14k yellow gold earrings with 1 ct. t.w. blue sapphires and 0.71 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $7,500; alameahawaii.com

EDITORS’ & INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Triple Infinity earrings in 18k white and yellow gold with diamond pavé; $9,900; renisis.com

Platinum Jewelry

One-of-a-kind ring with 4.92 ct. oval Nigerian paraiba, 0.25 ct. t.w. round paraiba accents, 0.98 ct. t.w. marquise diamonds, and 0.59 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold prongs; $271,433; yaeldesigns.com

$50,000 & UNDER

Glimmering Mirage platinum bracelet with 15.02 cts. t.w. marquise diamonds and 3.24 cts. t.w. round diamonds; $38,000; neongems.com

OVER $50,000

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Platinum Lagoon of Eternity ring with 5.01 ct. radiant-cut Sri Lanka blue sapphire and 1.37 cts. t.w. bullet-cut and baguette-cut white diamonds; $65,000; aggems.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Floral-inspired ring with 2.68 ct. pear-shape paraiba, 0.29 ct. t.w. round paraibas, 0.66 ct. t.w. tapered baguettes, and 0.48 ct. t.w. round diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold prongs; $44,955; yaeldesigns.com

SURAT I MUMBAI I NEW YORK I HONG KONG +91 85003 85003

I info@blgdlab.com I blgdlab.com

164 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

$5,000 & UNDER

$5,001–$15,000

14k white and yellow gold diamond and blue topaz bypass ring; $1,700; gabrielny.com

Ring with 9.95 ct. free-form fire opal and 0.45 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds in 18k rose gold; $8,154; yaeldesigns.com

Colored Stone Jewelry

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Handcrafted Curva ring with Tajik cushion-cut pink spinel in custom alloy 18k yellow gold; $11,400; vanessa-fernandez.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

OVER $15,000

Oval-, heart-, and emerald-cut Emerald Trio earrings; $64,000; rahaminov.com

Pretty in Pink ring with 1.43 ct. oval rhodolite garnet, 1.5 cts. t.w. inverted pink sapphires, and 0.9 ct. t.w. inverted orange sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $10,310; anakatarina.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

Lab-Grown

ALL PRICE POINTS

Limited-edition Jane Goodall collection cuff bracelet with 12.5 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in recycled 18k yellow gold; $20,000; brilliantearth.com

Haute Couture drop necklace with 16.58 cts. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k gold; $19,999; smilingrocks.com

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

166 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Silver Jewelry 69

Nova necklace in matte-finish sterling silver; $1,495; jorgerevilla.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

ALL PRICE POINTS (TIE)

Hold and Behold Excellence silver and 14k gold bracelet with 0.54 ct. t.w. diamond accents; $2,799; aiyadesigns.com

ALL PRICE POINTS (TIE) Sterling silver and opal bangle; $475; alameahawaii.com

71 INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Sterling silver Geometric link chain necklace with Bujukan connectors; $750; gabrielny.com

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry

73 74

ALL PRICE POINTS

INFLUENCERS’ CHOICE

Geo collection earrings with turquoise stones in 18k gold– plated silver; $293; jorgerevilla.com

14k yellow gold Bujukan and ruby snake open ring; $485; gabrielny.com

EDITORS’ CHOICE

The jewelry trade's most important global gathering

JCK2025.COM/JCKMAGAZINE

the industry authority

169

SUMMER 2025

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

GAME OF STONES

Centered with a 26.69 ct. Australian opal, the 18k yellow gold ring features 58.52 cts. t.w. paraiba tourmaline; 1.77 cts. t.w. diamonds; 1.74 cts. t.w. blue, 0.57 ct. t.w. pink, 0.67 ct. t.w. purple, and 0.89 ct. t.w. green sapphires; 0.91 ct. t.w. tsavorite; 0.7 ct. t.w. peridot; and 0.8 ct. t.w. pink tourmaline.

OPAL ESSENCE “Boulder opals have a unique way of telling their own story,” McKinney says. “This one had such a commanding presence. It became clear it needed to be a ring—one that would be both wearable and sculptural.”

WATER COLORS “Heron Island, which sits within Heron Reef, has always been a place of wonder for me,” McKinney says. “The way sunlight dances across the water and the electric blues of the shallows blending into the rich teals of deeper waters—it is nature’s own masterpiece.”

BOULDER VENTURE FOURTH-GENER ATION AUSTR ALIAN jewelry designer Margot McKinney is best known for two things: beautifully matched, oversize South Sea pearls and deep-hued, painterly boulder opals. “As soon as I saw this opal,” McKinney says of the center stone, hand-selected in Queensland, “I knew it was destined to be a statement piece.” The Heron Reef opal ring takes its name from “one of the most breathtakingly pristine locations on the Great Barrier Reef, a place where the ocean shimmers in endless hues of blues and greens.” For McKinney, this is more than just a piece of jewelry: “It is an homage to Australia’s unparalleled natural beauty and to the richness of our land and sea.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

BRIDAL

170 HOT STOCK TIP

THREE’S COMPANY

Three-stone illusion bezel ring in 18k yellow gold with 4.03 ct. Movál diamond and 1.4 cts. t.w. Movál diamonds; $150,000; rahaminov.com

If you’re wondering what’s next in hot engagement-ring styles, look to the early aughts, when many brides eschewed solitaires in favor of rings with side stones. “We are seeing renewed interest in three-stone rings—not just in traditional designs, but in more distinctive variations,” says Melanie Goldfiner Goldberg, chief marketing and business development officer for Rahaminov in Los Angeles. “Clients are drawn to unique side stones like shields and hearts as well as modern bezel settings that offer a fresh take on this classic style.” And give new meaning to the phrase trinity prayer. —BRITTANY SIMINITZ

Trinity ring in 14k yellow gold with 3 cts. t.w. labgrown diamonds; $3,830; Miraki Jewels; support@ mirakijewels.com; mirakijewels.com

Custom toi et moi series ring; price on request; ZAHN-Z; info@zahnzjewelry. com; zahnzjewelry.com

Helix ring in 18k yellow and white gold with diamond; price on request; Grace Lee; francesca.simons@ francescasimons.com; gracelee.com

TREND GAME

GO LONG Canary ring in 18k yellow gold with marquise diamond; price on request; Jemma Wynne; sales@ jemmawynne.com; jemmawynne.com Ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.54 ct. emeraldcut diamond; $11,500; Marrow Fine; sales@ marrowfine.com; marrowfine.com SUMMER 2025

Modern Love ring in 14k yellow gold with 1.88 ct. diamond; price on request; Retrouvaí; traci@ retrouvai.com; retrouvai.com

WHILE THE ROUND brilliant remains the No. 1 most popular silhouette for an engagement ring center stone, elongated shapes have gotten more prominent, both in styles showing lengthy, slender marquise and oval shapes and in the slightly unconventional east-west setting. We can’t get enough of either. “East-west settings are definitely having a moment, especially after Zendaya’s engagement ring put them back in the spotlight,” Jillian Sassone, founder of Marrow Fine, a jewelry design house based in San Diego, tells JCK. “But elongated cuts—ovals, emeralds, marquises—are still the go-to, for their timeless, flattering appeal.” —BS JCKONLINE.COM

the vault

SILVER

172

Snake choker necklace in sterling silver and 24k yellow gold with 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,120; Lika Behar; likabehar@likabehar. com; likabehar.com

Venice collection bangle in sterling silver and yellow gold; $575; Jorge Revilla; info@ jorgerevilla.com; jorgerevilla.com

TREND GAME

MIX IT UP

A STERLING SILVER renaissance has been percolating for the past several years, and with the record-breaking—and still rising— price of gold, the white metal is poised to become more popular than ever. Consumers who have amassed an all-gold jewelry collection may be reluctant to embrace silver, but fear not—two-tone styles that feature subtle gold accents help bridge the gap, making the mix not only possible but utterly desirable. “I can make a much heavier piece with the aesthetic I am looking for without breaking the bank,” designer Lika Behar says. We heard that! —BRITTANY SIMINITZ

Italian rolo link bracelet in sterling silver and 18k yellow gold; $1,500; Phillip Gavriel; info@ phillipgavriel.com; phillipgavriel.com

JH Essentials bracelet in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $3,100; John Hardy; 888-838-3022; johnhardy.com

TWO TIMES THE FUN What’s better than one chunky chain bracelet? Two chunky chain bracelets…for the price of one. This super-chic piece from Pianegonda’s Amatum collection goes from all-silver to silver and navy blue with a simple flip. Amatum is the Latin word for “beloved,” and that’s just what this bracelet will be: a beloved addition to your jewelry collection. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO SUMMER 2025

Day & Night hoop earrings in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold; $2,311; Kitty Joyas; info@kittyjoyas.com; kittyjoyas.com

8 mm bracelet in sterling silver and 14k yellow gold with 0.19 ct. t.w. diamonds; $4,250; Vahan; sales@ vahanjewelry.com; vahanjewelry.com

HOT STOCK TIP

Amatum chain bracelet in sterling silver with blue enamel; $1,490; pianegonda.com JCKONLINE.COM

order@advancedjewelrycasting.com

(213) 559-4545

a aj jcasting.com ajcasting.com

175

the industry authority

SUMMER 2025

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME (CRM) of your POS system has to be robust. “Your CRM cannot be an advanced Rolodex—it needs to be a big part of your business that targets the right people with the right offers.”

REAL-TIME INVENTORY

IRYNA INSHYNA/SHUTTERSTOCK

SYSTEM UPDATE Don’t underestimate the value of a technologically advanced point-of-sale system BY KAREN DYBIS

RENDS COME AND go, but one aspect of running a jewelry store that remains constant is upgrading your technology—especially your point-of-sale (POS) system, which can make the difference between closing a sale and losing one to a more tech-savvy competitor. Having a strong POS system means more than tracking inventory or sales. The best ones include advanced personalization, data analytics, unified commerce, and more. Some companies, like Jewelry Shopkeeper and Jewel360, specialize in POS systems that cater to the jewelry industry, while others—such as Lightspeed, The Edge, Shopify, and Square—offer strong overall systems. “Whatever your growth plan is, you need your t echnology to keep up with you or, ideally, get ahead of you,” says Andrea Hill, founder and CEO of Hill Management Group, a Chicago-based consulting firm specializing in strategy and infrastructure development for small businesses. “You can’t be competitive anymore without a solid commitment to technology. It’s as critical as your staff or your location.” And if you think your business is too small to need data

crunching or customer analytics, think again. “All of your competitors have access to the same tools, and their decisions are getting better,” Hill says. “So you need to get better, too.” Here are the chief criteria Hill advises her clients to consider.

UNIFIED COMMERCE Your POS system should seamlessly integrate with your sales channels, Hill says. That means all of them: in-store, mobile, website, and social- media channels like TikTok Shop.

ADVANCED PERSONALIZATION “You need to offer things like targeted promotions, personalized communication, and loyalty programs,” Hill says, so the customer relationship management

JCKONLINE.COM

You should be able to know what and how much you have in stock at any given moment. “Your inventory should be visible in real time, all of the time,” Hill says. “If you can’t do this, you won’t be able to offer the services or marketing consumers are expecting.”

FLEXIBLE FULFILLMENT Your POS system should help you fulfill customers’ orders on their terms, whether that means shipping items from your store, or offering curbside pickup or same-day delivery.

OPEN API Don’t let the fancy name intimidate you. Application programming interface, or API, simply means allowing your POS to talk to other systems and integrate new technology when needed.

DATA ANALYTICS AND REPORTING Interpreting your data is essential to running an efficient business “because you make better decisions that way,” Hill says. “Most people don’t use data because they don’t know how. But we’re getting AI [artificial intelligence] systems where we can feed information into them, and they can show you everything you need.”

Tool Time

176

‌THE GOODS

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

GET SMART

Smart-ring makers are upping the ante with new features and upscale materials in a bid to get consumers to embrace wearables. A recent example is the Rare ring by the Bangalore, India–based wearables company Ultrahuman, which is billing the style as the first luxury smart ring. Ultrahuman revealed the Rare ring at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas in January. —KAREN DYBIS What it does: It tracks sleep quality, steps, workouts, calories, and stress levels. Another interesting feature is its Caffeine Window, which allows the wearer to understand the best time to consume caffeinated beverages for enhanced productivity as well as when to stop for better sleep quality. What we liked: The Rare ring debuted with the Desert collection, which includes the Dune and Desert Rose styles, both made from 18k gold, and Desert Snow, made from platinum. The colors are divine and truly make this ring look like jewelry rather than just a tracking device.

The Rare ring measures 8 mm wide and 2.45 mm thick.

Best feature: It promises six days of battery life, ideal for style- and health-conscious clients on the go. ($1,865–$2,250; ultrahuman.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

DIAMOND SELECTOR SET Customers shopping for a diamond for themselves or as a gift often may not know what shape best suits them or the recipient. Stuller created the Diamond Selector Set for this sort of situation, whether a customer is torn between a round and an oval-shape stone or simply wants to know the difference between an Asscher- and a princess-cut gem. The set uses CZs to show 10 shapes— round, oval, emerald, pear, marquise, princess, cushion, Asscher, radiant, and heart—as well as the differences in size between stones weighing from 0.5 ct. to 5 cts. Each row of graduated stone sizes can be lifted out of its tray on clear plastic so customers can see how various sizes will look on their hand. The gray-colored set, which can be customized with a store’s logo, is meant to match Stuller’s palladium-color displays. ($495; stuller.com) —KD SUMMER 2025

JCKONLINE.COM

THIS IS HOW WE ROLL. EARN CASH DIVIDENDS WITH RJO. RJO member/owners are independent jewelers who, through their numbers, exercise powerful buying clout. What’s more, they also receive cash back on everything they buy from RJO’s world-famous vendors. But we’re more than a buying club. We offer free seminars, succession planning and hosted foreign buying trips. Plus we have a private Internet site for networking with peers and provide simplified bookkeeping where one check covers multiple vendors. Visit our website to discover the many other advantages of RJO membership and how to apply.

PROUD VENDOR PARTNERS:

JOIN US • RJOMEMBERS.COM • 800.247.1774

ADVERTISING

INDEX

178

A Kleiman & Co. pg. 111 Email: allen@akleiman.co Phone: 415-982-3500 ADVANCED JEWELRY CASTING pg. 174 Website: ajcasting.com Email: order@advancedjewelrycasting.com Phone: 213-559-4545 Alamea Hawaii LLC pg. 155 Website: alameahawaii.com Email: support@alameahawaii.com Tel: 808-922-5333 Fax: 808-922-3992 Amden Jewelry pg. 66 Phone: 213-327-0863 Fax: 213-327-0865 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 69 Website: arpas.com.tr Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 B.H.C. Diamonds (USA) Inc. pg. 161 Website: bhcdiamonds.com Email: bhcusa@bhcdiamonds.com Phone: 212-997-9195 Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds Inc. pg. 163 Website: blgd.in Email: usa@blgd.in Phone: 212-278-0905 Christopher Designs pg. 75 Website: christopherdesigns.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

SUMMER 2025

CrownRing Bridal House pg. 37 Website: crownring.com Email: sales@crownring.com Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464

HLY Corp. pg. 50 Website: cutoes.com Email: hly@cutoes.com Phone: 212-684-6482 Whatsapp: 516-350-0059 Fax: 212-684-6484

DA Gold pg. 49 Website: dagoldproducts.com Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Phone: 212-819-1111 Toll-Free: 800-223-6639 Fax: 212-730-5706

Hoover & Strong pg. 107, 159 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Dabakarov pg. 32-33 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888

Imperial pg. 58 Website: imperialpearl.com

Effy pg. Back cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Elite Designs pg. 71 Website: elitedesignsinc.com Email: eliteone@bellsouth.net Phone: 954-455-5353 Gabriel & Co. pg. 47 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketdevelopment@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Informa Fuarcılık A.Ş. pg. 56 Website: instanbuljewelryshow.com Email: info@istanbuljewelryshow.com Phone +90 (0) 212 808 05 94 JCK Events pg. 167 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual pg. 16-17 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 173 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 57 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Jye’s International pg. 35 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880 Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 98 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778 Labon LLC pg. 171 Website: labondiamonds.com Email: sales@labondiamonds.com Phone: 315-207-7066 Le Vian pg. Inside front cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN MARKALED AYDINLATMA SAN. TIC. LTD. STI pg. 165 Website: markaled.com Email: info@markaled.com Phone: +90 212 418 50 58 Metal Marketplace International pg. 54 Website: metalmarketplace.com Email: mmisales@metalmarketplace.com Toll-Free: 800-523-9191 Midas pg. 4-5 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Phone: 201-244-1150

JCKONLINE.COM

ADVERTISING

INDEX Mioro pg. 20-21 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018 Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 40-41 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Neon Gems Inc. pg. 31 Website: neongems.com Email: neongemsinc@yahoo.com Phone: 213-627-0433

Quality Gold, Inc. pg. 8-9 Website: qgold.com Email: info@qgold.com Phone: 513-942-7659 Toll-free: 800-354-9833 Fax: 513-682-1100 Toll-free Fax: 800-686-7184 RDI Diamonds pg. 14-15 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Nivoda pg. 22-23 Website: nivoda.com Email: sales@nivoda.com

RJO pg. 177 Website: rjomembers.com Email: rjo@rjomembers.com Phone: 641-792-4900 Toll-Free: 800-247-1774 Fax: 641-792-9251 Toll-Free Fax: 877-252-4542

Parade Designs, Inc. pg. 27 Website: paradedesign.com Email: info@paradedesign.com Phone: 213-627-4019

Royal Chain Group pg. Gatefold cover, 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 157 Website: peterlam.hk Email: jacky@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555802 Fax: +852 27641328

Royal India USA pg. 39 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661

Pompos Jewelry pg. 79 Website: pomposjewelry.com Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com Phone: 213-624-1441

Savoia ITALY/Savoia USA Inc. pg. 12-13 Website: www.savoiaitaly.com Email: savoiausa@gmail.com Phone:212-221-3750

Schofer pg. 63 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Jewellery Co. pg. 24-25, 168 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation Inc. pg. 6-7 Website: shycreation.com Email: info@shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 SMO Gold (Single Mine Origin) pg. 61 Website: singlemineorigin.com Email: info@singlemineorigin.com Phone: +44 (0)121 8178179 SPB Gems pg. 53 Website: spbgems.com Email: info@spbgems.com Phone: 212-719-5170

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Sylvie pg. 10-11 Website: sylviejewelry.com Email: marketing@sylviejewelry.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Tracr pg. 18-19 Website: tracr.com Email: sales@tracr.com Uneek Jewelry Inc. pg. 28-29 Website: uneekjewelry.com Email: info@uneekjewelry.com Phone: 213-622-5119 Toll-Free: 888-BE-UNEEK Fax: 213-622-5115 Vivid Gems pg. 105, 109 Website: vividgemsint.com Email: gtian@lawbrothersgroup.com Phone: 303-870-3440 Zen Diamond pg. 77 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

Steven Royce pg. 103 Website: stevenroyce.com Email: info@stevenroyce.com Phone: 516-466-0700 Stuller Inc. pg. 73, 81-97, 112 Website: stuller.com Email: sales@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Copyright ©2025 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 156 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 1 time a year in May by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, a Division of RELX Inc., 401 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Circulation records are maintained at 401 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, 401 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. JCK is a registered trademark of RELX Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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SUMMER 2025

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

WHAT A WAY TO DRESS! SHIRLEY MacLAINE MAY get top billing in 1964’s What a Way to Go!, but sharp-eyed cineastes might notice another big name in the final frame of the film’s opening credits: Harry Winston. Legendary costume designer Edith Head had a $500,000 budget for the kooky comedy, and the New York City– based jeweler loaned $3.5 million worth of jewelry for the production. “In case anyone has forgotten,” she wrote in her memoir, “that was a damn fortune in the early 1960s.” (It still is: Adjusted for inflation, it’s nearly $35 million today.) According to the studio, MacLaine’s debut in the “diamond dress”—along with $2,500,000 in Winston jewels— produced gasps of admiration. Plus this quip from costar Robert Mitchum: “Yes, but can she cook?”

Head created 72 outrageous outfits, including this $8,500 rhinestone gown, for MacLaine.

—MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO JCKONLINE.COM

20TH CENTURY FOX/EVERETT COLLECTION

Shirley MacLaine dazzles in piles of Harry Winston diamonds and lavish Edith Head costumes in an unsung 1964 comic caper

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