Zadar In Your Pocket City Guide No16

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zadar Summer 2019

Tune InTo THE Summer Events not to miss, locations that bliss N°16 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

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Family Fun

A zesty editorial to unfold

Fun, adventure and entertainment

Top 10 Summer Events 5

Zadar Surroundings

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay

The top getaways

Architecture & Tourism

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Top 10 Places To Shop 50

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Arrival & Getting Around

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Nightlife 22

Maps

Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

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Priceless places and buys

Remaking the Adriatic - new Croatian architecture

Restaurants

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City centre map City map

Zadar Basics

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54-54 56-57 58

Keepn it real

Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo Archives While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare,to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down.

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Foreword Zadar is an ancient city built over three thousand years ago that has withstood some amazing trials and tribulations. Originally a city protected by well-kept walls, it houses an abundance of history from being the first Croatian University (1396) to its protection by four guardian saints; Zoilo, Simeon, Grisogone and Anastasia. A day’s walk around the city will blow you away with the churches, chapels and monuments that have stood the test of time. Yet, there is a modernisation to the city with new features and attractions to spruce up the cultural and tourist offer of the city. Named as the ‘2016 European Best Destination’, Zadar is home to multitudes of food and music festivals, cultural events, concerts, sports gatherings, national parks, bays and more. Clubs, bars and restaurants are always abound and it is really up to each visitor to choose the sort of holiday they prefer; one of sun and fun to peace beneath trees, or flair and dare! Whichever you choose, we wish you a memorable time in one of Croatia’s golden cities.

COver story Raise a sweat this September 21st with this 21km middle distance triathlon, Triathlon Long Island, combining a swim, cycle and run amidst hidden coves, ancient ruins, and pebbled beaches…

A true venture for adventure!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1334-9228 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zadar In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Researcher Katarina Buljan, Anamarija Alfirev Design Bojan - Haron Markičević Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Triathlon Long Island, Sali Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zadar (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Privlaka’s Fishermen and Sabunjari Night, July 2019, Privlaka Tourist Board Archive

Top 10 Summer Events ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN ZADAR AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Top 10 Summer Events

Violet Whirl, cast ,cut and polished glass, 2016, Petr Stacho, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

14.06 - 22.06 » KvartArt Zadar 2019 This festival of creative urban living throws into action the minds of young creative thinkers who present their ‘know how’ on his to revitalise abandoned public spaces. In addition, multitudes of concerts,performing arts, workshops, screenings, games, and other cultural events can be enjoyed under the one flag! The line-up for evening gigs is impressive…Qwww.kvartart-zadar.com.

28.06 - 01.08 » The 25th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. All in all, theatre and performance is truly alive in this part of the globe.QC‑3, Warious city locations, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

29.06 - 03.07 » Mediteraneo – The 2nd Mediterranean Puppet Festival After last year’s success, puppetry thrives again this summer with theatres from Slovenia, Italy and France.

Choose from the Slovenian Nova Gorica play ‘Petar Kuštravi’, Italy’s Gioco Vita Theater and their performance ‘La donna di Porto Pim’, and the ‘La Pendue Puppet Theater’ with their performance ‘Le cri quotidien’.

The Zadar Puppet Theatre’s performance is ‘Victor or the Children in Power’. Entertainment for all ages!Qwww. klz.hr.

06.05 - 21.08 » In Honour of Nature Czech artist and sculptor Petr Stacho presents a selection of his works pertaining mostly to his newer series ranging from 2013-2019. Stacho’s love for glass has seen his works travel the world with notable elements that includes geometric shapes, sharp lines and outlines that depict seemingly random cracks. His sharp cuts, grinding, polishing and heating at high temperatures make his glass sculptures stand out!QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.mas-zadar.hr.

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09.07 - 08.08 » The 59th Musical Evenings in St Donat If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Various locations across city, www.donat-festival.com.

11.07 - 13.07 » Full Moon Festival On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.zadar.travel. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Top 10 Summer Events 24.07 - 26.07 » Zadar Jazz & Blues Summer in Zadar always jazzes up mid-July and for three nights, three top artists will perform. The opening night sees the Cuba Vocal Sampling, followed by Joseph Bowie & the Funky Bastardz, and the final night has blues legend Eric Bibb & Band. It all takes place on the beautiful open-air terrace of the Museum of Ancient Glass. QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

27.07 » Millenium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.Qwww.zadar.travel.

01.08 - 01.10 » Memento mori. Funerary Rituals and Customs in Ancient Rome The mighty Roman Empire had many laws, even laws to do with religious burial ceremonies which were incineration and inhumation, both of which were recorded on the ancient necropolises explored in Zadar. The public gets to see the richness of the rituals and objects inside graves which create a wider image about the social and economic situation as well as the religious understanding of the social community. A historian’s paradise!QC‑3, Archaeological Museum, Trg opatice Čike 1, www.amzd.hr.

Rector‘s Palace, National Museum, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

06.05 - 12.08 » Glass Sculptures by Petar Hranuelli Croatian sculptor Petar Hranuelli is an eminent name in artistic circles having held over 50 solo and 100 group exhibitions. Hranuelli is a master sculptor of stone and now uses such techniques with glass.

His exhibit consists of over one hundred sculptures in small glass format with the goddess Venus and nudes a common theme. Translucency and mythology are fused in one! QD‑2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, www. mas-zadar.hr.

Petar Hranuelli, Pogled u nebo, 2018, Photo by Nikša Lalin, The Museum of Ancient Glass Archives

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Architecture & Tourism

REMAKING THE ADRIATIC NEW CROATIAN ARCHITECTURE Adriatic architecture is all the rage these days, with fans of modernism yearning nostalgically for the fantastic hotels built along the Croatian coast in the 1970s and 1980s.

The tourism-driven building boom of those years gave Croatia’s seaside an easily identifiable, contemporary image.

Nowadays a new generation of architects are renewing the region’s reputation as a place for innovation and good design.

The advertising slogan of the Croatian National Tourist Office famously used to read “Croatia: The Mediterranean as it Once Was”. Maybe “Croatia: the Mediterranean of the Future” would be a suitable replacement in the years ahead.

The question of contemporary Croatian architecture – what should it look like, and what should seaside cities do to improve public space for locals and visitors alike – is a big local issue in the historic port city of Rijeka. As a major industrial hub, Rijeka brings to the forefront all the questions about how industrial heritage should be repurposed. As a designated European Capital of Culture in 2020, Rijeka has also taken on the mantle of facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

St. Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives The Sea Organ, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

artistic showcase, with various projects designed to show the future direction of Adriatic art and design.

One of the central planks of Rijeka 2020 is the Sweet & Salt strand, a programme which focuses on a particular postindustrial strip of the city and looks at ways of bringing new functions to”lost” urban spaces,nurturing new ideas Summer 2019

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Architecture & Tourism in urban planning at the same time. The project will continue a process that has already begun, that of transforming the area beside the river Riječina and the Molo Longo pier into a lively pedestrian strip.

Arguably the most exciting part of the project is the planned Ecumenical Pavilion, a non-denominational house of prayer and meditation designed by the legendary Zadar architect Nikola Bašić. Taking the form of a smallwhite rotunda enclosed in a spiral, the pavilion is inspired by the sweeping form of the Milky Way, and is designed to focus the mind of the visitor on the infinite. As well as being the perfect example of Bašić’s visionary style (and more on him later), it also serves as an ideal metaphor for Rijeka’s tolerant, multicultural, multi-faith and no-faith identity. Placing it in a former industrial zone beside the Riječina river lends this part of town a whole new image.

Three years later Bašić added Greeting to the Sun, a large disc set into the paving stones of the coastal promenade, and consisting of light-sensitive cells that absorb solar energy by day and emit a kaleidoscopic array of colourful light come night-time. Together with the Sea Organ, situated a few metres away, Greeting to the Sun has transformed this part of the Zadar seafront into a lively social forum for mingling, moving and hanging around. Zadar, suddenly catapulted into the premier division of forwardlooking resort towns, has never looked back.

Bašić has also helped to change the face of Šibenik, designing the seductively curvaceous blob that is the Hotel D-Resort, complete with its rooftop gardens. Bašić is the brains behind the (yet unrealized) plans for transforming Šibenik’s transport network, with a huge escalator linking the shoreline Dolac district with the hilltop St Michael’s Fortress, and a cable-car ascending to the fortress of Barone and St John.

Leader of the Sweet & Salt strand Idis Turato has invited the cream of the Croatian art and design world to come up with Šibenik is a good example ideas for 2020, although it is as yet of a city that has pushed its unclear which of them will actupost-industrial woes into ally get built. Turato himself has the background thanks already made a profound mark on to sound strategic thinkthe Adriatic architectural scene, ing: Šibenik’s Banj beach, designing (with erstwhile studio on a stretch of coastline partner Saša Randić) the quite that was previously out of extraordinary Museum of the bounds due to nearby facApoxyomenos in Mali Lošinj. Detory installations, is an exspite being housed inside a 19themplary piece of modern century villa, the museum boasts landscaping that serves as an almost space-age interior, with a useful model for other the statue of the Apoxyomenos itAdriatic destinations. self housed inside a white capsule.

Randić and Turato were also reIndeed there is talk of sponsible for the amazing Fran Krresurfacing rivas and stoFrankopan elementary school making-over marinas all on the island of Krk, together with over the Croatian coast. its futuristic sports hall and ac- Greeting to the Sun, Zadar Tourist Board Archives Plans for Baška on the iscompanying public plaza. Turato’s land of Krk envisage a new work for private clients – the boldly cubist Villa Gumno on promenade behind the beach and a floating performance Krk, and the audaciously space-age Nest and Cave House stage; the island of Susak has just opened an all-new seain Volosko – have adorned the pages of architecture mag- front walk. Betina, already transformed by the opening of azines around the globe. the Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding, has a newly paved port area that combines boat moorings with a piazza-style However it is arguably Nikola Bašić who is the doyen of public space. the new Adriatic style, having won worldwide fame for designing the Sea Organ on the seafront at Zadar. Com- Perhaps the most illustrious exponents of the new Adripleted in 2005, this innovative use of public space consists atic architecture are Zagreb studio 3LHD, who redesigned of organ pipes mounted inside a broad stairway that leads maritime Croatia’s most famous public space – the Riva down to the sea. Activated by lapping waves, the pipes in Split – as well as building hotels in the Istrian resort of produce a soothing if not always musical polyphony that’s Rovinj, and an impressive sports hall in the Rijeka suburb of the perfect accompaniment to a spot of maritime medita- Zamet. Judging by the neat geometric terraces of 3LHD’s tion. The organ really gets into its stride when the sea is brand-new Hotel Park in Rovinj, Adriatic modernism has a choppy. Given the famed beauty of Zadar’s sunsets, it’s bright future. a wonderful place to sit in the evening, when it attracts quite a crowd.

By Jonathan Bousfield 12 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

18.07 - 20.07  Kali Fisherman’s Nights - Tunuara The largest fishing feast in the Zadar region is on the island of Ugljan and in the town of Kali. Head down for the rich three-day program where traditions of old are revived such as the parade of fishing boats across the Zadar Canal, which is also a trademark of the event. The authentic cuisines cooked up in accordance to local recipes are second to none!QKali, Ugljan, www.kali.hr.

Kali Tourist Board Archives

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Restaurants Croatian 2Ribara A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC‑3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, www.2ribara.com/ zadar/en/. Open 12:00-23:00. (90 - 150kn). A­P­X­B 4 kantuna This informal modern restaurant and pizzeria located on an atmospheric square has proven to be a hit. It serves everything from salads, bruschettas, pastas and risottos to fish and a particularly imaginative offering of grilled meats. The dessert menu is especially popular with guests.QD‑3, Varoška 1, tel. (+385-) 091 313 53 82, www.restaurant4kantuna. com. Open 12:00-23:00. (50 - 210 kn). A­B­J

KORNAT

FINE DINING RESTAURANT Liburnska obala 6

Gourmet Kalelarga Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, www. arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00-23:00. (80 - 140kn).

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Bon Appetit A lovely modern interior with a rustic/pastel feel that oozes comfort! Bon Appetit is all about the food and wine on offer and that means lots of Dalmatian and Mediterra- Groppo nean tradition with modern interpretations. Open day and Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, night, visitors can pop in for refreshments or for a meal. grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. VegFish, meat and dessert varieties are oh so popular here etarians are also well accommodated. We recommend as well as top quality wine.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC‑3, Široka HARBOR print 23-5-19.pdf 1 23/05/2019 13:29 ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81/(+385-) 091 462 94 14, 4, tel. (+385-23) 33 55 50, www.restaurant-zadar.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. From June Open 12:00 - 23:30. (65 - www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (75 200kn). A­P­B­S­J­6­W ­i 200kn). A­P­G­X­B­W ­i

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Outstanding, exceptional & unique... food, service & surroundings...

Not necessarily in this order.

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Welcome in Harbor, enjoy your meal and have a good time in the most different Cookhouse & Club in Zadar.

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Obala Kneza Branimira 6, Zadar +385 (0)23 301 520, +385 (0)91 450 3501 www.harbor.hr

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Restaurants Harbor Cookhouse & Club Another gem restaurant off the city port which is newly decked with old ship and submarine parts! The cuisine is a fusion of Mediterranean and Peruvian with ingredients from local producers. Dishes such as Octopus with cream of Kalamata olives or Chicken sliced marmalade la Parmigiana are top sellers. Desserts are equally as good! This combined restaurant/lounge bar also has live performances and DJs for entertainment.

QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 30 15 20, www.harbor.hr. (80 - 300kn). A­P ­G ­X ­ B­E ­W ­i Kaštel Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.

If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, www.hotelbastion.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (60 - 205kn). A­P­G­ X­B­L­W ­i Malo misto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, at-

Kavana Danica Archives

mosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. malo-misto.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 170kn).

A­P­G­X­B­W Pet Bunara This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great.

During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat! QD‑3, Stratico ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, www.petbunara.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (75 - 150kn).

A­P ­G ­B ­S ­6 ­W Proto Food&More Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the all-round experience offered.

Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at reasonable prices. Open from sunrise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here. Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.

QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 31.

Closed Mon. Open 16:00-24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­ T­B­S­J­W­K ­i

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Restaurants

Ethnic Maguro restaurant & sushi bar Asian and Mediterranean fusion at its best! This is the city’s first ever sushi bar offering curry dishes, soups, ramen, sushi, desserts, fish and meat dishes. Special emphasis is on local produce in regards to veggies, truffles and wine. Yet, the highlight is on the local tuna, bred and caught in the nearby Kali tuna farm.

QC‑3, Borelli 10, tel. 023 313 870, www.maguro.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (60-165 kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­W

Italian Pašta & Svašta This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls.

As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 74 01, www. pastasvasta.com. Open 12:00-22:00. From June 15 Open 12:00 - 23:00h. (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W Salsa Rossa Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pizza’s made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 11:00-23:00. (40 - 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Bruschetta The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, www.bruschetta.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W

Konoba Bistro Pjat Bistro Pjat is a small restaurant tucked in among the tiny streets of Zadar’s old town. The food is typically mediterranean, with fish, pasta and pizza on offer. Bistro Pjat was recently awarded the “Smiling Sun” for being the best restaurant/tavern in the city. With daily specials and an enticing regular menu, Bistro Pjat is not to be missed.QC‑3, Stomorica 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 39 19. Open 11:00-22:00; closed Sun. From June Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 17:0023:00. (75 - 155kn).

Rafaelo On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi.

Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH‑4, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 12:00-23:00. (60 - 350kn). A­P ­G ­X­ B­S ­L ­W Summer 2019

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Restaurants Skoblar Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.

QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36.

Open 08:00-23:00. From June Open 08:00-23:30. (50 150kn). A­P ­G ­X ­B ­S ­J ­6 ­W ­i Stomorica Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today, it’s a beautiful place to eat out: still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing nights on Friday evening. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC‑3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46, www.stomorica.com.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (50 70kn). N­P ­G ­X ­T ­B ­S ­J ­W Zadar - Jadera A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch.

You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine Taste of Italy in the heart of the old center.

Try delicous pizzas made with mozzarella cheese, focaccia bread and other Italian specialties.

Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on romantic terrace.

then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (40 - 100kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Sabunjar Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.

Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Studenac and Getro.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, www.restoran-sabunjar.hr.

Open 07:00-22:00. From June Open 07:00 - 23:00. (33 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W Tamaris A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, www.tamariszadar.com.hr. Open 07:00-23:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­ G­X­U­B­L­6­W

Seafood Foša One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD‑4, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00-23:00.

(140 - 270kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­S­J­W Niko Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, www.hotel-niko.hr. Open 12:30-24:00. (90 - 190kn). A­P­G­S­L­6­W Taverna Diklo A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s

18 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

best to book in advance for prime positioning.QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open 11:00-24:00. (60 - 350kn). A­P­G­B­S­L­W

Pizza Mamma Mia Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46, www.mammamia. fullbusiness.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (50 180kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W Šime A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.QG‑2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (45 - 135kn). N­P­G­X­B­S­L­6­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Maguro restaurant & sushi bar Archives

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Restaurants Tri bunara This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. (45 - 79kn). N­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­ 6­W ­i

Out of town Boškinac This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines.

Pricey but worthy!QŠkopaljska ulica 220, 53291 Novalja, Pag, tel. (+385-53) 66 35 00, www.boskinac.com.

Open 12:00-22:00. (340 - 880 kn). A­P ­G ­X ­B ­L­ 6­W ­i Griblja Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties.QTrg Ruševac 18, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 44 32, www.griblja. com. Open 07:00-24:00. (69 - 149kn). A­P­G­B

The First Lady of the AdriaticS The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine.

A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea.

They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market for 10kn.

A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine.

When the festa is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold in a paté or a salad.

Restaurant Kaštel, Hotel Bastion Archives

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Kod Guste A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink).

QRudina 10, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03. Open 16:00-23:00. (65 - 250kn). A­P­G­B­W Konoba Pece We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03. Open 16:00-23:00; closed Mon. From June 15 Open 16:00 - 23:00. (80 - 350kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­ S­V­L­6­W Kraljevski Vinogradi Located in Punta Skala in central Dalmatia, Kraljevski vinogradi (the Royal Vineyards) gets its name from a royal deed from the 11th century that bequeathed the vineyard to a Benedictine monastery from Zadar. While the vineyards today are less than a decade old, the traditions and connections to history have remained. Royal Vineyards uniquely specializes in premium grape varieties from Dalmatia — Pošip, Plavac Mali and Crljenak.There’s no doubt you will leave their tasting room and tavern with an unforgettable experience!QPunta Skala bb, Petrčane, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 93, www.kraljevski-vinogradi.hr/en/.

Open 13:00-24:00.

Pineta Pineta is a sprawling mediterranean restaurant located in a fragrant pine forest a few kilometres outside of Zadar.

Two years ago the restaurant was redesigned to better accommodate increased demand and to raise the profile for their savvy clientele. While still specializing in meat and fish, Pineta has created family-friendly weekend menus at affordable prices, and also help to organize and host all manner of festivities.QKožinska cesta 122, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12, www.pineta. hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 13:00 - 24:00.

(75 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­6­W Portus Beach Club & Restaurant The newest sensation on Croatia’s shoreline is the Portus Beach Club, a luxurious venue comprising of two restaurants; a bar and kids play area. The complex is central to one of the best marinas on the Adriatic which has also been awarded with the prestigious Blue Flag. There are deck chairs and parasols for sunbathing on the pontoons and the venue oozes in style and class!QBibinje - Sukošan 1, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 20 03 50, www.d-marin.com/ en/homepage.aspx. Open 08:00-23:00. (150-500kn) facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

FOOD & Drink JULY » A feast of mussels in Novigrad Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle. Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These days, any connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.

QNovigrad, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr.

21.07 » Šokolijada For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it’s all in good fun. It’s a true ‘dig in and savour’ session. Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!Qwww.nin.hr.

02.08 » The Festival of Salt The Nin Salt Works (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘au naturel’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals, the tools used back in yonder to those used today, processes and the panning of salt from the sea to the salt shaker, salt in cosmetics and skin care, and that’s just a pinch of salt in regards to what can be seen.QThe Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64, www.solananin.hr.

05.09 - 07.09 » Zadar Craft Beer Festival 2019 If beer brings cheer, then bring it on! For the fifth year running, Zadar is hosting this fabulous festival with a jam packed programme to ensure not a dull moment is to be had. Join in on the three days of fun, music and plentiful craft beers available as there has been a boom in Croatia and abroad in the ‘craftsmanship of beer’. Be part of the movement!QA/B/C‑4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, www.r-ohkoncept.hr.

Nin‘s šokol, Photo by Marin Stulić, Nin Tourist Board Archives

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Restaurants Restaurant Mare With over 40 years in the hospitality business, this family run seafood restaurant serves up a mega treat for all its visitors. It is actually located on the island of Katina,within the Telašćica Nature Park, on the island of Katina. ‘Mare’ happens to be the oldest restaurant in the Kornati archipelago.

Open for breakfast through to dinner, the menu is high on seafood and grilled meats, plus pastas, pates and risottos.

Deserts too!QMala Proversa 13, Sali, tel. (+385-) 098 33 26 97, www.restoran-mare.hr. Open 09:00-24:00. (150 750kn). A­B­6­W

Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine Maraschino liqueur Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the

Photo by Dean Dubokovič, Boškinac Pag Archives

best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.

Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.

If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

Samphire At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang,

22 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Cogito Coffee Shop Creating top quality coffee and all that is deemed ritual about coffee! They have brought their winning concept to Zadar with cocktails, craft beers, teas and natural juices as added refreshments to soak up that summer sizzle.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III B, www.cogitocoffee.com.

Open 08:00-20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 23:00. September Open 08:00-20:00. Closed Mon. P­B­S­J­W Danica A sparkling modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of their tasty homemade cakes and pastries made on site. Opposite the National Theatre.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16, www.restorani-zadar.hr.

Open 07:00-01:00. A­P­G­B Forum A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00-24:00.

A­P­G­X­T­B­W

chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum).

Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

Lovre The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00-01:00. N­P­G­X­B­6­W

coffee & Cakes Art Kavana If you appreciate excellent, imaginative cakes you really must call into this cake shop. The range is frequently refreshed with new creations to suit the season, there are macarons… the problem is deciding what to choose. Cakes are freshly made and beautifully presented. Coffee and cake, that most indulgent of rituals. QE‑2, Bartola Kašića 1, tel. (+385-23) 40 08 00. Open 07:00-23:00. A­P­G­B­W Coffee & Cake Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few can resist. QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vranjanina 14. Open 07:0023:00; Sun 08:00-23:00. G­X­B­J­W facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Nightlife BARS

beach bars

Arkada A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd.QD‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-) 095 371 47 38. Open 07:0001:30, Sun 08:00-01:30. B­W

Forty Bar The stunning D-Marin Borik, part of a relatively new marina, is home to the Forty Bar; a new place where people gather for a fine meal or relax for drinks. The terrace views by the pool overlooking the Adriatic are breath-taking.

Whether you’re strolling through or docking at the marina, the finely decorated Forty Bar is always worth a visit.

QG‑5, D-Marin Borik ,Obala kneza Domagoja 1. Open 08:00-22:00. A­U­B­L­W­C

Backstage Bar Entertainment for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QL‑3, Andrije Hebranga 9, tel. (+385-) 091 222 07 68. Open 07:0000:00. N­P­G­X­T­B­E­6­W Cafe Gallery Gina Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC‑3, Varoška 2. Open 07:0001:30. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W Famous Bar Open from morning till night, ‘Famous’ is a beach bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of wines.QF‑4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, www.famous.adria-bars.hr.

Open 08:00-01:30. A­G­X­T­B­V­L­6­W Guma Bar Recently opened, this bar operates seven days per week and as soon as you walk in, be ready to be enveloped by the lovely bright surrounding colours. Once a cinema, this renovation sensation is a cool place to hang out and chill.

The music ranges from the 80s and beyond and as the sun sets, the amplifiers begin to rise in volume. QB‑3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+385-) 097 791 04 53. Open 10:00-02:00.

A­P­X­E­J­6­W Kult In the very heart of Zadar this café by day and bar by night is a popular spot for students. There are DJ nights, karaoke nights, big screens for sports… Fun, friendly and lively. Good cocktails too!QC‑3, Stomorica 6a, tel. (+385-) 099 438 99 63. Open 07:00-00:00; Fri, Sat 07:00-01:30.

A­P­X­B­J­6­W La Bodega Zadar Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QC‑3, Kalelarga - Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 40, www.labodega. hr. Open 07:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i 24 Zadar In Your Pocket

Guam Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.

QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385-) 098 981 33 05. Open 7:30- 00:00. From June Open 07:30 - 01:30.

N­P­X­B­W Porthos Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too.QO‑6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Open 07:00-00:00.

N­P­G­X­B­W Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo Archives

Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people.

Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, www.bamboozadar.com. Open 07:0001:300. N­G­X­T­B­6­W

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Lounge bars Ledana Lounge bar Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a luminous icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts as well as huge theme party nights.

QD‑3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 098 630 760, www.ledana.hr. Open 08:00-00:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00-04:00. From June 20 Open 08:00 - 04:00.

A­P ­X ­B ­6 ­W The Garden Lounge Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, www. thegarden.hr/the-garden-lounge. Open 10:00-01:30.

A­X ­U ­B ­J ­6 ­W

- S P L I T - Z A D A R -

TO

PLACE

Clubs Podroom Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!

Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QE‑2, Obala kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-) 099 749 84 51, www.podroom.club. Open Fri, Sat 01:00-06:00. A­P ­G ­E ­J ­W Svarog Bar More of a nightclub than a bar, Svarog is on the stoneflagged Trg pet bunara and is one of the most popular nightspots in Zadar. The music is mainly R’n’B with a smattering of house. Very busy at weekends.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara, tel. (+385-) 095 775 30 09. Open 20:0006:00. X­B ­J Tutta Forza Until recently, the island of Dugi Otok had no nightclubs.

And now, this brand new club has the lot; a podium, bar tables, elevated dance floor, urban interior with natural elements and more. It’s all state of the art! Music wise, one can expect everything from the 80s through to current hits as well as a residential band named ’Fish Factory’. So come on down for a great island party atmosphere!QSali, Dugi otok, tel. (+385-) 099 503 98 01. Open Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Summer 2019

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Sightseeing

Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Sightseeing check out the highlights - see the best of the city in only a couple of hours

26 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried.

(A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies.

Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city.QB‑3.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history.

Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.

With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.

QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 18 - September Open 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20/10kn. J City Sentinel (Gradska straža) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/10kn. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities. On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.

St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop.

Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13. Open 09:00-19:00. June Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, September Open 09:0021:00. Admission 20kn. J

Forum, St Donatus’ Church, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Sightseeing St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.

Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy.

QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J

The Riva “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

The Riva, Photo by V. Jednakovic, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archaeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD).

Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times.

In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.

Archaeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition.QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30kn. J

Gallery of Arts (Galerija umjetnina) A permanent exhibition of Croatian art and sculpture from the 19th and 20th centuries. Particularly of note are the artworks dating 1945-49, a collection of Baroque sacred art and the works of prominent Zadar artist Franjo Salghetti.QD‑3, Medulićeva 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 74, www.nmz.hr. Permanent display relocated to Rector’s Palace due to renovation of the Museum. Admission 20/10kn.

Museum of Illusions (muzej iluzija) The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. Newly opened in the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija. com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Admission 70/50kn and for families 200kn. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History Department, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s palace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr. Permanent display relocated to Rector’s Palace due to renovation of the Museum. Admission 20/10kn. J

The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.

QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. Admission 30/20/10kn.

Churches Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA‑3, Braće Bilišić 1.

Zadar Excursions Archives

Zadar Market Tour and Cooking Class Being a harbour city, the trading of merchants with locals has always enriched the local cuisine, especially the herbs and spices that had come from different parts of the world. And when you consider the sheer location of Zadar, a bustling city pocketed along the Adriatic with islands close by and the hinterland in the background filled with rich fertile soil, for centuries recipes had been created, mastered and handed down from generation to generation. Now this is your chance to get a feel of being a real ‘Zadranin’ for a day by going on a culinary journey where you get to create your own lunch or dinner recipe. By booking your place on this culinary journey, the daily schedule includes; coffee at cafe Lovre, a licensed guide, shopping for fresh ingredients from the market needed for preparation of a traditional lunch, food sampling at the local market, a welcome drink, tip top chef’s assistance and hints in the kitchen, a glass of wine, and of course the meal you prepare for yourself. A minimum of 2 through to 18 people can attend.The price is 442 kn all inclusive! For more information write to info@ zadarexcursions.com or call (+385-23) 33 72 94. Bon apetit! Q www.zadarcookingclass.com 30 Zadar In Your Pocket

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.

Franje Asiškog) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artzadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Statue of Špiro Brusina The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons.

What secrets does that shell contain?QD‑4.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches.

But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+38523) 21 17 05.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

QD‑3, Trg 5 bunara.

Greeting to the Sun Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.

Statue of Špiro Brusina, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

works. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QA/B‑3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68, www.svetifrane. org/. Open 09:30-18:00. Admission 15 kn.

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Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula.

Over the centuries the palace has experienced many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its foundations had revealed parts of the building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers. This new tourist attraction unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls, and representative halls decorated and conserved in different historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 09:0020:00; Sat, Sun Open 09:00-13:00. Admission 10 - 20 kn.

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD‑3, Trg pet bunara.

www.inyourpocket.com zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing A Široka ulica 18 T +385 97 791 0453

Live music Events Exhibitions

GUMABarZadar The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and

mali arsenal Once a part of the city fortress built in the 15th century, Mali Arsenal has recently reopened in its restored original form but with a changed interior which is now a high-tech Multimedia Centre. Visitors can learn about Zadar’s fortifications through play and exploration across four different levels. The first level is all about ambiance and 3D visualisation. The second level uses games and motion sensors and the third level is educationally based and includes detection and research using interactive modules on the multi-touch screen. The fourth level encourages visitors to discover the history of 15 places in the old city centre via a mobile application - a virtual guide through Zadar fortifications. The visitor becomes a researcher and once they complete all the tasks, they can share their social networking accomplishments. 3000 years of history taught in the new age and in new ways! Qwww. nmz.hr. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR‑3.

The Petar Zoranić Square Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.QD‑3.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka Summer 2019

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Sightseeing (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E‑3.

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE‑3.

Religious collection The city of Zadar has four patron saints, when you’ve got a group like that watching over you you’d better believe that the city’s going to have some pretty intricate religious artifacts and artwork. They’ve got everything from martyr’s

bones and one of the only three circular churches in the world to bragging rights for hosting a visit from the late Pope John Paul II. Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus.

If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia.

The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/ (+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since.

QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. The Monastery Museum of St. Mihovil’s, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca) There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD‑3, Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20/(+385-23) 35 00 21. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

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Sightseeing Explore the world of illusions An Interview with Roko Živković - Owner of Museum of Illusions rotating cylinder in an effort to make the next step - on a completely flat and stable surface!

ZIYP: What are the best locations for photography in the museum?

Roko: The entire Museum is extremely ‘photogenic’ and our visitors are very creative in taking photo-

graphs. Still, I would single out the Ames or Infinity Room, but it is also interesting to try the various options available for the Upside Down Room.

Make sure to capture one photo for memory in the Vortex tunnel and the Chair of Illusion. It only takes a bit of imagination to take superb photos and establish great memories!

Roko Živković, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

ZIYP: Dear Roko, can you briefly tell our readers what to expect when visiting the Museum of Illusions in Zadar?

Roko: When visiting the Museum of Illusions in Zadar you will experience a social and fun trip into a world that enchants all generations! It is a perfect place for new experiences and enjoyment with your friends or family, the biggest in this part of Europe.

And despite children enjoying it the most, it is also a place for parents, couples, grandmas and grandpas!

Vortex, Museum of Illusions Archives

ZIYP: How much time does one approximately need to go through the entire museum and have fun whilst doing it?

Roko: It takes one hour to see the entire Museum of Illusions, but since we also have dilemma games and a didactic program scattered around the museum in several places, those who are interested in our brain teasers and jigsaw puzzles will often stay longer.

ZIYP: What is your favourite exhibit?

Roko: If I have to choose one, it would perhaps be the Vortex tunnel because of the whirlwind illusion that it creates. The Vortex will completely overpower you and make you struggle really hard to walk through the facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Museum of Illusions Archives

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Family fun Buggy Croatia Off-Road Tours more fun again. Of course, you can have your adventure Why not try something new this summer, with Zadar’s customised to suit your needs. Want more water, have buggy tours? These tours are exceptionally flexible, and more water. More mountain? That can be arranged. The can range in duration from 2.5 hours, to the full day! only limit is the number of daylight hours in the day! Can See the coast, the nature parks, go up Velebit and revel be combined with other extreme and outdoor activities in the vistas! Try it all! There’s the Safari Tour, off-roading such as kayaking, hiking tours of hard to reach spots, the backroads and trails of in-land Zadar. Here you’ll enetc. Perfect for Team Building if you think office morale counter rugged terrain is on the wane! Qtel.

by Croatian standards, (+385-) 091 112 21 00, and of course there’ll be www.buggy.hr. Open some opportunity to dip 09:00-20:00. From June your feet in the water if Open 08:00-20:00. (1400 you choose to speed off - 2500 kn). towards the coast.

How about the AdvenFun Park biograd ture Tour? This 3.5 hour by mirnovec tour takes all that is the One of the newest atSafari Tour and adds a tractions to this part of little more. This includes Croatia is the opening of more extreme terrain, so this Gardaland style Adexpect some bumps and Fun Park Biograd by Mirnovec Archives venture Park in Biograd jolts, and maybe even na Moru. Based on other some muck and mud! The Velebit Tour will take you up to famous world entertainment centres, patrons will be the mountain in question, a UNESCO World Heritage site. able to enjoy 24 attractions divided into three areas: This is the largest mountain in Croatia, and is home to over Pirate City, Wild West and the Universe. Each thematic 2000 plant species. The only way you can get up here is on park is jammed with entertainment games, hospitalfoot (not recommended for amateur hikers), on horseback, ity, souvenirs, events and concerts. Perfect for a day or by buggy. The views from here will be unbeatable. This out!QJankolovački put 9, Biograd n/m, www.funparkwill take up most of your day, at least 6 hours of fun and biograd.com.

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Telašćica Nature Park, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

Zadar Surroundings don’t make mistake of missing some of these great places in zadar’s surrounding areas

Zadar Surroundings Top Sights Asseria, Benkovac, Photo by Ivo Dunatov, Zadar Tourist Board Photonet Archives

Galevac, Preko Tourist Board Archives

Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

QBenkovac.

Sakarun, Photo by A.Gospic, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

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Lunj Olive Grove (Lunjski Maslenik) Located in the very north of the gorgeous island of Pag, in the Novalja area, the Lunj Olive Grove stretches over 24 acres and has been intact for centuries making it a true rarity in its own right. There are natural wild olive trees called Olea oleaster linea with more than 80,000 altogether, out of which 1,500 are 1200 years old on average and the oldest is 1600 years old. The Lunj Olive Grove is unique in the world because of the large numbers of old wild olive trees that have remained together for thousands of years. A real gem in Croatia’s proud heritage!

Sakarun - Dugi otok Looking for that picture perfect beach! Then look no further as Sakarun is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Zadar area. It is situated near the towns of Veli Rat, Veruni, Soline and Božava and its white sandy beach stretches 800 meters in length.

A string of pine trees surround the beach which also has two eateries. Jump on board the tourist train which leaves Božava and Sakarun every two hours!Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Climb Paklenica, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

Galevac (Školjić) If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Monastery of St. Paul the Hermit. The monastery complex was built on the island Galevac (Školjić), situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th century, whilst the construction of the monastery took place during the 15th century. The inventory collection of the monastery consists of more than 56 items.

Nature Park Telašćica Archives

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams,the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available – reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: planinari.paklenica@gmail.com. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www. np-paklenica.hr). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, www.nppaklenica.hr. Open 06:00-20:30. Ticket 30 - 60/20 - 40kn.

Nature Park “Telašćica” Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok – it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 8km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay – the water is warm and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96, www.pp-telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 - 40kn. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings

Saljske užance The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.’ In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia. Qwww. dugiotok.hr.

Saljske užance, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Vrana Lake Nature Park This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, www.pp-vransko-jezero.hr/hr/. Offices in Biograd Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 21:00 which includes weekends. Entrance 20/10 kn.

Nin Salt Works Archives

Ibis, Vrana Lake Nature Park Archives

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Solana Nin Solana Nin has shared a turbulent history; from Roman emperors who would use salt from Nin at feasts in juxtaposition to the Venetians who shut down the Solana as it was competition to their rival salt pans. Today, a Roman gate still stands as testimony to the age of the salt pans and it is positive to note that salt production is in full swing these days; 55 hectares is used and is positioned between five Croatian national parks, indicating the Eco Certified purity and unspoiled natural surroundings of the area. The Solana also has a historical Museum and souvenir shop where you can buy the highly sought ‘Salt Flower’.QIlirska cesta 7, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21, www.solananin.hr.

The Northern Velebit National Park With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable forests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats, which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Zavižan and Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders, surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora. The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineering. At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the traditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renovation of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming as a measure for preserving biodiversity. To lean more and buy entry tickets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the village of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of entering a chasm using a special “lift”. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www.np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Lubenovac, The Northern Velebit National Park Archives

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Zadar Surroundings North of Zadar Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

Nin The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates Dugi otok, Pantera and Veli rat Bay, Photo by Boris Kačan, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.

A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.

What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

Nin Salt Works & Church of the Holy Cross (Solana Nin & Crkva svetog Križa) The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day.

Some of the archeological highlights are located in Nin. Such as the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world.QNin. Nin Tourist Board QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Novigrad Photo by Stipe Surac, Nin Salt Works Archives

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Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.

Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.

Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47.

When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.

Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

Saljske užance, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Tourist Office of the Municipality of Novigrad QTrg kralja Tomislava 1, Novigrad, tel. (+385-23) 37 50 51, www.novigrad-dalmacija.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Zaton

Pilgrimage of gratitude to Zečevo, Photo by Ivo Pervan, Nin Tourist Board Archives

Lubenovac, The Alan Shepherds’ Huts, The Northern Velebit National Park Archives

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This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area.

One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.

The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

defend Nin from Turkish raids.

The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels.

Zaton Tourist Board QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, www.zaton-zd.hr. June Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 07:00 - 21:00.

The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.

Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic – travelling throughout their territories between their power bases – often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 – the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head – this time, by treaty.

Zaton Holiday Resort QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, www.zaton.hr. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

South of Zadar South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake in its present lively and romantic Riviera.

Biograd n/m

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It Summer 2019

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Zadar Surroundings was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and Peka, Zadar County Tourist Board Archives

turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com.

Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn.

Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach.

Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Biograd n/m Tourist Board QPut Solina 4, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From June Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s ea sily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Dugi otok Tourist Board QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr. May Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. June Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

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Zadar Surroundings Iž This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž.

In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. Predrag Petrović, known as Pepi, mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather and baking it on an open fire.

Zadar Tourist Board Office QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00-14:00, Sun, Sat 08:00-13:00.

Pag

Triathlon Long Island, Sali Tourist Board Archives

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.

Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Zadar Tourist Board Office Qtel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

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Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean.

But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.

These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.

Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice.

The town has a few other interesting churches and palfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

aces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Pag Tourist Information Centre .QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, www. tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00-22:00.

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Zadar Surroundings Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly lowlying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Rava Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž and Dugi Otok. Shaped like a figure of 8 with two large bays, it has two tiny settlements, about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather good restaurant, small coves suitable for swimming and a limited amount of private accommodation. If your aim is to escape far from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may well be for you Zadar Tourist Board Office QRava, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66.

Tkon Tourist Board QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, www.tzotkon.hr. May Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pašman Tourist Board QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr.

Open 08:00-12:00; closed Sat, Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmos-

Muline, Ugljan Tourist Board Archives

50 Zadar In Your Pocket

Rava, Photo by Boris Kačan

phere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball.

Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff.

Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumpzadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

tion of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

Silba Tourist Board QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr. From June Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy.

The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days!

A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Kukljica Tourist Board QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, www. kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. June Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. From June 25 September Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Preko Tourist Board QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, www. preko.hr. Open 08:30-14:30; closed Sat, Sun. Summer 2019

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Top 10 Places To Shop

Barrel Wine Store If you devour a fine wine, then this store is just for you. The concept is driven by the staff’s passion for wine production, noting the specifics to each available wine that will best suit your mood or pallet. You can get an authentic Croatian red or white, or even a champagne as a memoir or to take back home.All in all, the city of Zadar is all the richer with the opening of the Barrel Wine Store, which promotes regional wines to every customer. QK‑4, Ul. Stjepana Radića 6c, tel. (+385-) 091 613 35 52, www.barrel.com.hr/. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Sun. Bibich A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC‑3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 23:00. A Borovo Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 37, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:0015:00; closed Sun. Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića5 (Cedulin Palace), tel. (+385-23) 20 70 79, www.croata.hr/in-en/ frontpage. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun.

Croata Archives

Marina Kornati Archives

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Top 10 Places To Shop Galeb Feel like shopping! Then keep an eye out for this Croatian manufacturer of quality clothing products traditionally known for conventional and classical underwear. Today, the company also has a clothing line aimed at a younger audience following the latest trends in design. Another range is geared towards the Hajduk Split Football Club, with clothing merchandise also available.QC‑3, Borelli 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 69 57, www.galeb.hr. Open 08:0020:00; closed Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheese. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.QN‑5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Guliver High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QC‑3, Široka ulica 10, tel. (+38523) 24 04 45, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:0021:00; Sun 09:00-13:00.

Maraska Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB‑3, Mate Karamana 3, tel. (+385-23) 20 88 00, www.maraska.hr.

Open 09:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

The Ancient Glass Museum Shop Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00-21:00. A The Archaeological Museum Shop An interesting and attractive offer of souvenirs from the museum consists of casts and copies of useful items, jewellery, and simple home decorations made from different materials, from ceramics, plaster, stone and metal. Best of all, it’s all handmade!QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+38523) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr/en/. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

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What can you take home from Zadar?

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A Croatian history bestseller Some cheese and puina from Pag

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A Croatian tie from Croata

Glass souvenirs from the Ancient Glass Museum

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A replica necklace from the Archaeological Museum

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Salt from Nin Pag lace Summer 2019

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Arrival & Getting Around (+385-23) 66 61 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 23:00. July - September 04 Open 04:30 - 24:00.

Jadrolinija QA‑2, Liburnska obala 7, /(+385-23) 25 05 55, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00-21:00.

Miatours Catamaran Lines Zadar - Premuda - Silba - Olib, Zadar Pula, Zadar - Pesaro.QB‑2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+38523) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, www.miatours.hr.

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aRRIVING By bus

Kalelarga, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

aRRIVING By boat Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port (R-5) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town (J-5) to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

G&V Line Iadera Lines Zadar - Iž - Rava, Zadar - Sali - Zaglav, Zadar - Sali Zaglav - Bršanj, Rijeka - Krk - Lopar - Novalja - ZadarQB‑2, Poljana Natka Nodila 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 33, www. gv-zadar.hr/. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 08:30-15:00,19:0020:00; Sun 07:00-08:15,16:00-17:00,18:00-20:00.

Jadrolinija QB‑2, Liburnska obala 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 96/(+38523) 25 10 01, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 06:00-22:15.

Jadrolinija QR‑5, Gaženička cesta 28a, tel. (+385-23) 66 61 00/ 54 Zadar In Your Pocket

The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 4kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at news stands buys you two trips.The ticket office at the station is open 05:40 - 22:00.

Zadar Coach Station Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO‑2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

aRRIVING By car The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

aRRIVING By plane Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From May to June 14 and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. Changes in parking prices can occur during the summer period.

Zadar Airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, www.zadar-airport.hr.

Public transport

Biking Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.

Option two is the Nextbike system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of four city locations. The initial amount you pay is 79kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental. Each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

Left Luggage Bagul Here for a short time and don’t want to carry luggage around, visit Bagul where you can safely leave your belongings. Prices range from 8 kn per hour up to 30 kn for the entire day depending on the size of your luggage bag and time of drop off. QB‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 7, tel. (+385-) 091 956 48 04. May Open 07:15 - 15:15, Fri 07:15 - 16:30, Sat 07:15 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From June Open 07:15 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 20:00.

Elegance Tours Prices range from 10 kn per hour and up to 90kn for the entire day.QD‑3, Varoška ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 535 97 13, www.luggagestoragezadar.com. Open 07:45-21:00.

July, August Open 07:45 - 02:00.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.

There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jun 15 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

Liburnija City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).QO‑4, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

tourist information Tourist Information Centre is situated at Cedulin Palace. This palace’s history spans noble beginnings, conversion into a military hospital, a civilian hospital, and now, after restoration in 2017, it houses Zadar’s Tourist Information Centre, the Zadar Tourist Board and Zadar County Tourist Board. The stone-flagged courtyard with its wellhead is an elegant new venue for social and cultural events.

Tourist Information Centre QD‑2, Jurja Barakovića 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. July, August Open 08:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. November, December, January, February, March Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

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Guma Bar

Harbor Cookhouse & Club

Zadar Tourist Board / Tourist Informa Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4

Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana Bršića K-5 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3

Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3 Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4

/ Jurja Barakovića 5 / 230 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3

PARKING

LUČKA UPRAVA ZADAR PORT OF ZADAR AUTHORITY

000, Zadar, Croa Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4 Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Trg opatice Čike B-3

info@zadar.travel / www.zadar.travel Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3 Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2 Trg sv. Stošije K-6/B-3 Trg tri bunara K-5/A-3 Ulica BoreLli L-6/C-3 Varoška L-6/C,D-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1 Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4 Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3 Voštarnica L-4 Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5 Vrata sv. Roka K-5 Zadarskog mira K-6 Zlatarska L-5/C-2 Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5

Kalelarga, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Zadar Basics Customs

Smoking

There are no custom limits between EU member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.poreznauprava.hr.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Disabled Travellers Awareness of accessibility issues for people with disabilities is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled badge holders; most hotels have at least one room adapted for accessibility requirements, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors you can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

You can also seek information from the following: Zadar Tourist Board on museums, attractions, accommodation, beaches, transport and public restrooms adapted for people with accessibility requirements, info@zadar. travel. Zadar County Association of People with Disabilities, Zadar Office Information and assistance relating to accessibility requirements, Ulica obitelji Stratico 1, tel./fax: (+385-23) 21 38 85, uti-zadar@ zd.t-com.hr.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Visas Croatian visa policies are fully compliant with the European Union visa policy and standards. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

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Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

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When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385) 195.

Forum, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

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Traditionally fresh, tasty and the most delicious Dalmatian cuisine more than 50 years...

Welcome & enjoy

BlaĹža Jurjeva 1, Old City, Zadar +385 (0)23 213 445 www.2ribara.com

62 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com