Croatia In Your Pocket - Winter 2023 / Special Edition

ON THE COVER

That cover image is pretty captivating, right? That is the work of the brilliant Petra Slobodnjak, a Bjelovar-born photographer doing fabulous things with the lens. Jump to the Heritage section to see more of Petra’s work. (Petra recently won the prestigious Ivan Kožarić award for her excellent Displacement, Planinska 7, a collection of 27 photos and 10 texts.)

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732

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Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić

Contributors Ivana Kovačić, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, John William Bills

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Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Petra Slobodnjak

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Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

TAKE A G UIDE W ITH YOU

ZAGREB In YO u R P OC k E t

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MC Barban, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Marsela Hajdinjak, Illustration from the fairy tale “Blue Beard”, Charles Perrault, (from the book “The Fairy Tales”), publisher Mozaik knjiga, 2022.

Illustration by Manuel Šumberac

greAt Winter spots

croAtiAn Pizza tour

Photo by Petra Slobodnjak

Medvedgrad, Photo by Marko Edge

Photo by Mea Culpa

BesT MuseuMs for KIds

T HE STEREOTYPE OF KIDS FINDING MUSEUMS BORING NEEDS TO END, RIGHT? T HE WORLD IS PACKED WITH BRILLIANT MUSEUMS THAT WILL OPEN YOUNG EYES WIDE AND BRIGHT, AND C ROATIA IS NO DIFFERENT. C HECK OUT OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST MUSEUMS FOR KIDS AND, YES, ADULTS WILL FIND PLENTY TO LOVE AS WELL

Museum of Apoxyomena, Photo by Bosnić – Dorotić

Best Museums for Kids

Game of Thrones m useum

The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact, only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocletian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in captivity. The museum includes weapon and garment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated to key cities and characters, photographs taken on the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys, Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QBosanska ulica 9, Split, tel. (+385-) 099 694 03 12.

ivana’s house of fairy Tales

House of Fairy Tales consists of a permanent multimedia exhibition, a library, a multifunctional space for workshops, and a souvenir shop. The exhibition starts with the ‘Magic Forest’, a world where trees narrate episodes from Ivana’s life and from her books. We continue our journey through the ‘Enchanted Castle Hallways’, stop to take a look into the ‘Magic Mirror’ and warm up by the ‘Fireplace’. At the end of the journey, we have a ‘FairyTale Library’ and the ‘Chamber of Mystery’ which is a multifunctional space where one can watch animated films or play interactive games.QTrg hrvatskih rodoljuba 2, Ogulin, tel. (+ 385 - 47) 52 53 98, www.ivaninakucabajke.hr

12.10 - 28.02 »

hisTory of chocolaTe

Now we’re talking. The museums of Karlovac have come together with the Zagreb Chocolate Museum to compile the exhibition of our dreams, the sort of celebration that will have sweet teeth worldwide singing. The History of Chocolate will run until the end of February 2023, and you might be surprised at how closely the history of chocolate mirrors the history of humanity, not to mention the curious beginnings of the stuff. A world without chocolate is unimaginable, nay, unthinkable, and this exhibition showcases the wonderful stuff in all its majesty. The sweetest exhibition ever opened? We’re all for it. QDubovac Castle, Zagrad Gaj ul. 5, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 61 59 80. Closed Mon.

Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience. It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. This is the most numerous and most varied collection of such fossils in the world. The remains of dozens of people were found, together with those of animals such as the cave bear, wolf and rhinoceros as well as Palaeolithic stone implements. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig. It is not only the direct connection with the original find that brings you so close to deep prehistory: sculptures of Neanderthal families are so realistic that visitors have an eerie sense that they are about to move at any moment. You’re propelled back in time by sounds and smells recreating the world of Neanderthal man. You can touch the sculptures and learn about their emotions, rituals and entertainment. In short, this is about as close to Neanderthal man as you can possibly get, and is a real eyeopener, revealing how close to our own kind the Neanderthals truly were.QŠetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina, tel. (+385-49) 37 14 19, www.mkn.mhz.hr

Krapina n eander T hal m useum (m uzej K rapins K ih n eander Talaca)

MGK Photo

Bar B an m ulT imedia c en T re (m ulT imedijalni cen Tar Bar B an)

Sinj is not the only place to have preserved an ancient contest for horse and rider. The Istrian village of Barban still celebrates its equine traditions with the annual Trka na prstenac or “Race for the Ring”, in which locals and their steeds attempt to spear a specially-designed ring on the end of a long lance. The age-old ritual is celebrated in this brand-new multimedia Visitors’ Centre, where video films and 3-D technology help you to “experience” the race yourself. Entrance to the display is through a dramatic tunnel of lighted hoops; elsewhere costumes, photographs and local artefacts help bring out a sense of place.QBarban 1, Barban, tel. (+385-052) 56 76 35, www.barban.hr/centar-za-posjetitelje-barban

MC Barban, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

m e TKović n aT ural h is T ory m useum (p rirodoslovni muzej m e TKović)

Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum. The permanent exhibition features the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica kralja Zvonimira, Metković, tel. (+ 385 - 20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr

m ini Train m useum - Bac Ko m ini e xpress

The largest model train set in Southeast Europe. It is a miniature wonderland where no detail has been spared. With a kilometre and a half of tracks winding from underfoot to overhead, this miniature world is a favourite for small children, while at the same time just as interesting for discerning adults of all ages. Enthusiasts of the genre will be mesmerized by the over 150 model train compositions that travel along 1.5kms of long railroad: featuring passenger trains to freighters and everything in between. Not to be outdone, hundreds of roads that span 35m in length are spread across stunning scenery with all manners of moving motor vehicles possible; complete with stoplights and traffic signals. Unique to the Mini Train Mu-

seum is a model ski slope with skiers skiing in motion.QGundulićeva 4, Zagreb, tel. (+385-) 098 20 28 83, www.backo.hr

m useum a l K a of s inj (m uzej s injs K e al K e)

Nominated for European Museum of the Year, the Museum of Alka represents a 300 year traditional equestrian race where spearmen target their lances at a hanging metal ring in full gallop. Of note are the uniforms, equipment and weapons used, as well as historic statues and rules that have remained since the beginning. The procession preceding the Alka and the reconstruction of the Battle of Sinj from 1715 pays homage to the grand history behind this age old city.

QPut Petrovca 12, Sinj, tel. (+38521) 44 47 30, www.alka.hr

ZTB Archives, Photo by Julien Duval

m useum of a poxyomenos (m uzej a po K siomena)

The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cmhigh statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation,

when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos. The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use of mirrors. This year the museum earned a Special Commendation in the European Museum of the Year Awards (EMYA). EMYA is dedicated to promoting excellence in innovation and public quality in museum practice, encouraging networking and the exchange of ideas and sustain-

15.03 - 19.03 » fesTival of liGhTs zaGreB

Let Zagreb light up your life a little with this spring festival of illumination and beauty. See how artists use the city as a painting canvas as its buildings, monuments, promenades and squares shine at night with high tech lights, lasers and graphic effects that create a true spectacle of splashing colours, images and figures. Spring will shimmer in 2023!

Qwww.festivalsvjetlazagreb.hr

able best practices within the sector.QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr

m useum of c hocolaT e (m uzej čo Kolade)

A sweet little secret in the heart of Zagreb, you can enjoy the Museum of Chocolate with all your senses. At daily workshops,all age groups can enjoy learning the story of chocolate: where it comes from and how it is made. For grown-ups,themed workshops guide you through creating your own chocolately treats and learning to taste chocolate like a connoisseur. There are creative weekend workshops for children workshops, and chocolate summer camps for the luckiest little ones!QVaršavska 5, Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 209 2966, www.muzejcokolade.hr

m useum of i llusions (m uzej i luzija)

Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QIlica 72, Zagreb and Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, Zadar, www.muzejiluzija.com

m useum of T he c roaT ian War of i ndependence Karlovac - Turanj (m uzej d omovins Ko G raTa Karlovac - Turanj)

50 km southwest of Zagreb,the city of Karlovac was founded in 1579 to defend the southern borders of the Austrian Empire against the Ottoman Empire. In the 1990s it retained its strategic role and was the scene of bitter fighting between the armies of the Republic of Croatia and the self-proclaimed Republic of Serbian

Krajina. At Turanj, just off the motorway on the road to the Plitvice National Park, a former military barracks has been transformed into a modern interactive museum about the history of the war and its impact on the city’s people. It’s well worth stopping to explore, for adults and kids alike.  QTuranj 2, Karlovac, www.gmk.hr

n arona a rchaeolo G ical m useum in v id ( a rheološ K i muzej n arona)

This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385 - 20) 69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr

n i Kola Tesla m emorial c en T re (m emorijalni cen Tar “ n i Kola Tesla” s miljan)

Situated in the village of Smiljan near Gospić, the centre was opened in 2006 to commemorate the 150th

anniversary of the birth of Nikola Tesla, the epoch-making inventor whose work on electric current, xrays, light bulbs, radio transmissions and remote-control devices helped shape the world we live in today. The centre contains an accessible and entertaining audio-visual display that allows visitors to get up close to Tesla’s unique gift for invention. The centre comprises several buildings, including the house in which Tesla was born, a multimedia centre, a Tesla-designed turbine and a recreation of the laboratory he built in Colorado Springs in 1899. With a children’s playground on site too, it’s a great place for a family day out.QSmiljan 87/1, Smiljan, tel. (+385-53) 74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr

p ee K& p o K e - c hildhood

m useum (p ee K& p o K em uzej dje T injs T va)

Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QIvana Grohovca 2, Rijeka, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com

MBZ Archives

p olice m useum (m uzej policije)

The Museum provides an interesting cross section of the development of the Croatian police forces over the past decades, stresses the important role of the police in the Homeland War and showcases a large collection of weapons. Kids will enjoy the collection of police vehicles and equipment. Section of the Museum is dedicated to the father of dactyloscopy, Ivan Vučetić, where visitors will learn all about the fingerprinting technique, and can pose on a chair for the police photograph, popularly known as the mug shot.QAvenija Gojka Šuška 1, Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 242 65 51, www.muzej-policije.gov.hr

Technical m useum n i Kola Tesla (Tehnič K i muzej n i Kola Tesla)

All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QSavska cesta 18, Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr

13.04 - 22.04 » music

Biennale zaGreB

MBZ Kids is intended for the youngest and includes theater, workshops, music etc. ‘Listen, watch and learn’ is how music is conveyed to the children, providing opportunities to develop creativity in many different forms and directions.Qwww.mbz.hr/en

Best Museums for Kids

WelCoMe To sTorY Hour

Marsela Hajdinjak, Illustration from the fairy tale “Blue Beard”, Charles Perrault, (from the book “The Fairy Tales”), publisher Mozaik knjiga, 2022.

ivAnA Brlić MAžurAnić

The spirit of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić and her fairytales is well and truly alive in the hearts and minds of Croatians old and young. You’re never too old to learn a new lesson, after all.

Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, 1911. Tales of Long Ago, Publisher Kašmir Promet, Zagreb, 2002.

There are few artistic forms more influential than the fairytale. Passed down from generation to generation, these magical stories have been imbuing children with a solid set of ethics and values for centuries, encouraging honesty, bravery, and not trusting wolves wearing red coats. Whether ‘The Boy Who Cried Wolf’ taught you the importance of telling the truth or ‘Three Little Pigs’ inspired you to build strong foundations in order to stop a wolf blowing your life down, these moral tales have been building societies for thousands and thousands of years.

In many ways, Croatia is a fairytale country in itself. The state is full of locations that look like they came straight out of a magical world. The verdant majesty of Plitvice Lakes National Park could host a whole society of fairies, trolls and other mythical beasts, while the elegant wonder of Trakošćan Castle absolutely must be home to a princess waiting to be rescued by a prince (or vice-versa, of course). Zlatni Rat is the beach of your dreams, and the nation’s old towns are tailor made for storytelling and romance.

Mythology and legend in Croatian literature goes back a very long way, but most of Croatia’s modern fairytales come from the mind and pen of one of the nation’s most beloved writers. It could be said that Ivana BrlićMažuranić was destined for greatness from the get-go, as she was born into one of the most prestigious families in the nation. Her grandfather was Ivan Mažuranić, the first Croatian ban to come from outside the nobility, and much of her family was involved in

the Croatian National Revival in the mid 19th century. The pressure on Ivana to succeed was huge, and the girl from Ogulin was more than ready for the task at hand.

Ivana began writing at a young age, making the most of a fine education that took her to Zagreb via Karlovac, but her first real literary break came in 1913 when she published ‘The Brave Adventures of Hlapić’, the story of an apprentice who accidentally stumbles upon the lost daughter of his master, leading to a change in the poor boy’s luck. This book brought Ivana to the attention of the nation, but the best was yet to come.

It was 1916’s ‘Croatian Tales of Long Ago’ that really made Ivana BrlićMažuranić a star. Initially a collection of six short stories (with two more added to the 1926 edition), the book saw Brlić-Mažuranić take old Slavic mythology and twist it into new shapes, creating a whole new set of fairytales for modern Croatia. Her work garnered comparisons with Hans Christian Andersen and JRR Tolkien, and the stories were quickly translated into a variety of languages all across the globe. It is these stories that make up most of modern Croatia’s moral fiction.

The opening story of the book is How Quest Sought the Truth, the tale of three brothers who go exploring the forest in search of honey. Emboldened by their quest, the trio called on the Sun God to show them all the good things in the world, and the deity was more than happy to oblige, only for

the King of the Forest Goblins to intervene on their way home and cause them an awful fright.

Still in shock from the encounter with the goblin, the boys had largely forgotten the wonders they had seen. Their grandfather asked what they had seen, and the elder two brothers were influenced by the goblins to tell tale tales to the family patriarch. The goblins made themselves at home with the two older boys, but the youngest was unwilling to lie to his grandfather. This young boy (called Quest, hence the title) said that he could not remember what he saw, and he stuck to the truth as the goblins continued to corrupt his brothers.

Quest eventually left in search of the truth, but his attempts were thwarted at every turn by the pesky goblins. His brothers continue to grow greedy in his stead, and eventually conspire to kill the grandfather by setting his cabin alight. Quest is eventually visited by the Sun God, who merely tells him that the truth was to be found back at home with his grandfather, sending poor Quest into an almighty funk that leads to him falling into a spring and drowning.

All of this leads to the other brothers being freed from the clutches of their goblins, just in time to save the grandfather that they tried to kill. The brothers are forgiven, but the old man gives his own life to lead his youngest grandson into the great castle. The brothers (Careful and Bluster, if you’re after names) grow up to become great men, and the King of the Forest Goblins is finally defeated.

Fisherman Plunk tells the tale of a fisherman who is never satisfied, a man who is given all he ever wanted but does not appreciate it, and loses it. It is up to his put-upon wife to save the day, and the family eventually find a way to be happy with the normality of their lives, embracing simple domestic happiness. Then there is Reygoch, the story of a fairy and a giant who manage to settle the squabbling of two neighbouring villages, allowing them to live together in peace.

Bridekins is arguably the most complex tale of the collection. The story revolves around the eponymous character, the daughter of a miller who grinds wheat for free for a old woman. The woman has the ability to turn

into animals whenever she desires, and she promises to help Bridekins whenever she can. They come across a princess who has lost her keys, the reward for which is the princess’s hand in marriage. A warden finds the keys but he loves Bridekins, and the old woman helps the lovebirds escape the clutches of the princess and the army.

These are just four of the stories contained within Brlić-Mažuranić’s wonderful collection, a buffet of magical fiction full of morals, values, lessons and more. Ivana encourages the reader to appreciate the simple things in life, to stay true to the common world and to resist the temptations of evil in whatever form they might manifest, ideas that frequently come up in fairytales all across the world. The stories

of Croatian Tales from Long Ago have plenty in common with each other, not least the consistent theme of ordinary people becoming heroic through noble acts that could easily be construed as being simple good behaviour.

Fairytales have an important role to play in the development of all human beings. It is these fantastic pieces of fiction that help encourage a sense of right and wrong, a preference for good over evil, a desire to be the best that we can be and not to take shortcuts in order to get there. Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić was the most important individual when it came to encouraging these ideas in the young people of Croatia, and her name will forever be etched into the national consciousness because of it. It is thus

Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, Yagor. Publisher Mladost Zagreb 1966, Illustration Cvijeta Job.

apt that her hometown of Ogulin is now home to an interactive centre that allows the visitor to engage with her incredible tales. Ivana’s House of Fairytales (Ivanina Kuća Bajke) is located near to the 18th century Hotel Frankopan, and it is an absolute must for anyone visiting Croatia in search of creative inspiration, not to mention those looking for the true spirit of the nation. The museum houses a permanent exhibition along with a library, and plenty of workshops are held there throughout the year.

The spirit of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić and her fairytales is well and truly alive in the hearts and minds of Croatians old and young. You’re never too old to learn a new lesson, after all.

cHildren’s’ House

Children’s’ House (Dječja Kuća; www.djecjakuca.hr)  opened in March 2021, in one of the former factory buildings, it includes the children’s section of the municipal library, areas where educational workshops and play can be organized, an auditorium for puppet shows and children’s theatre, and a full programme of events, festivals and language classes. It also includes an indoor play area where parents can take a breather while watching children lark about in a secure environment. By integrating all the facilities and services that a city’s young population needs, the Children’s House is an ambitious undertaking that can serve as a model for similar institutions elsewhere. With a playful approach to interior design and furnishings, the House also serves as a thrilling example of what today’s Croatian designers can do. QBenčić, Rijeka.

Meet Olja and Roman, two accomplished Croatian authors, and take a peek into the world of their heroes. The interview reveals what inspires their writing, how their characters are created, what makes them laugh, and what messages they want to convey. Learn more about them on the following pages.

You can also read the original version in Croatian by clicking this link.

oljA sAviČević ivAnČević

Olj A S Av I č E v I ć IvA nč E v I ć published her first collection of poems (“It will be terrible when I grow up”) when she was in elementary school. She wrote a dozen books, which have been published in many European countries and in America.

For children, she wrote the picture books “Sporki Spiro and the disobedient Tonka”, “Alone in the World” (illustrated by Svjetlan Junaković), “Adriana has returned” (illustrated by Imelda Ramović) and “My Friend the Cat” (illustrated by Lucija Mrzljak), and a collection of poems titled “In love with the whole world” (illustrated by Ana Kovačić).

She is the author of numerous dramatic texts, adaptations and songs for children and young people that have been brought to life on Croatian and regional theatre stages. She received the Mali Marulić award three times for dramatic texts and adaptations and the White Raven 2022 international award for “My Friend the Cat”.

Olja lives in Zagreb and Korčula and works as a freelance writer. She is the mother of Điđi and Pjer.

More about books at: www.oljasavicevic.com/knjige

Photo by Jacob Goldstein

“T HIS PICTURE BOOK IS AN IMAGINATIVE, ORIGINAL, AND, I SUSPECT, AN E x TREMELY PERSONAL HOMAGE OF A WRITER AND A VISUAL ARTIST TO ALL THE “BAD CHILDREN” OF THE WORLD, THE ICONS ( AND RELATIVELY ANARCHIC PHENOMENA ) OF OUR EARLIEST DAYS: G RGI čVARK , A NTUNTUN, P IPPI LONGSTOCKING, P UCK , H LAPI ć AND G ITA, H UCKLEBERRY F INN AND OTHER LITTLE REBELS, OUTLAWS, “SAVAGES”, WANDERERS, BRAVES. B ECAUSE, WHATEVER THE MOULDED ADULTS THINK OF THESE LIBERTARIANS, WE WILL AGREE THAT ONLY YOU AND SUCH CAN BE STREET HEROES.”

Source Brickzine (from the review of the picture book “Dirty Špiro and the disobedient Tonka” by Vanja Kulaš)

Illustrations by Svjetlan Junaković

Illustration by Imelda Ramović

Roman: One of your famous little hero ines is known for disobedience, and her dirty ‘šporki’ friend from the stories has a bad reputation - so, not quite a washed-up knight, and not quite a classic fairy-tale princess. You expose our children to role models from the other side of the parental law, those who find their rebellious predecessors in Pippa Longstocking, Pucko, Hlapić, all those we loved because they were just like that, not quite good and decent children. Why? What is a good and decent child? And why do children (and moms and dads!) need tiny rebels?

Olja: We all need rebels, don’t we?! Let’s reconsider good and bad authorities and our own personal authority in relation to children. We also need gentle, quiet children who make us a little more subtle. And this cooperation between the quiet and loud little rebels is important, especially in the way in which they help each other and show

solidarity in the fight for the same goal. That one friend or slightly grumpy sister who was and remains necessary for your adventure, you encourage each other in that direction - is there anything better than that? Someone who will persuade you to cross the imposed boundaries and discover freedom is essential for growth, for the joy of life. And that someone can be our child.

The question I ask myself with every new children’s book, and you may know the answer: Who are you writing for when you write for children? For a specific child or for the child you were and/or still are? Or maybe both? In your books, you can feel certain preoccupations, whether you wrote for adults or children: for example, a playful imagination and a playful language. Let’s say love and loneliness, islands and the sea - which could work perfectly as two names for one and the same couple…

Sometimes it is for my children, and then in writing, I discover it is also for me. You can feel when someone in the text is having a lot of fun. It seems to me that it is the same with you - for me, when I write for children, it is fun, relaxed writing, which on the other hand, is still more responsible than writing for adult readers. There is no struggle and struggle with oneself, walking around the laptop as if in a cage. It’s always a quest, going on an adventure, and for that, you need your partner. It’s always a couple, you noticed that very well: a boy and a girl, because that’s the friendship on which the foundation of a normal and happy society rests, and a large number of people will wrongly claim that such a friendship is not possible; or a pair of animals and a child, which is also extremely important for this world, to learn to love these animals as equally valuable.

Roman: Before they become books, and sometimes after that - your stories for children often live on stage. What is theatre to you and them? Origin? School? Imagination? Playground? And are plays easier to create than stories, or is it easier for stories to be born as plays?

Olja: When I wrote for the theatre, for actors or puppets, I had to embrace a stage mindset and respect some technical limitations, but I also enjoyed the collaboration and joint construction of that magic because theatre, especially for children, is magic that grows right under your nose. This is where the idea was born to “cram” the characters into picture books where children can find them whenever they need them. One girl used to come to the puppet theatre in Split from play to play and call out to the disobedient Tonka, actually the actress who played her. But the texts in the picture books are different (it is a completely different medium). Only the starting point and the central characters are the same.

Roman: Your penultimate picture book is not a story but a poem. In love with the whole world (Zaljubljena u čitav svijet) has three parts: the first contains your old songs, the second is dedicated to the sea, and the third is entitled Dad’s world and mine (Tatin svijet i moj.) Moms and dads are fascinating characters, but since your new novel Summers with Marija is full of little girls, moms and grandmas, I’m curious what this dad is like and how he snuck into the picture book.

Olja: This dad from Zaljubljena is a bad guy from the neighbourhood, the bearer of prejudices and limitations from the world of adults, but a good enough father whom his daughter loves. She corrects him with her love and sincerity and brings him to the superhero level she intended for him. We will never be the kind of faces we are in the eyes of our children until they take us off the pedestal; you have to work hard to make it last.

Illustration by Ana Kovačić

roMAn siMić

Born in Zadar in 1972, R OMA n S IMI ć is a Hall of Fame name in the world of modern Croatian creatives. Roman’s list of accomplishments is as long as it is varied; he is the Artistic Director for the Festival fo the European Short Story, the editor of Anthologies of European Short Stories, a beloved awardwinning prose writer, a frequent voice on the international stage and a man whose brilliant stories have been translated into everything from Slovenian to Swedish via Czech, Catalan, German and more. The accomplishments are impressive, of course, but it is the work that truly matters. His publications include U trenutku kao u divljini (In a Moment Like in the Wild), Mjesto na kojem ćemo provesti noć (The Place Where We Will Spend the Night), U što se zaljubljujemo (What We Fall in Love With), with everything translated and positively dripping in awards. The fingerprints of Roman Simić are everywhere in modern Croatian storytelling, and the sphere is all the better for it. He currently lives in the capital and works as an editor for an influential publishing house.

Photo by Sarah Jane Eyre

Who is Jura?

Eh, that’s a curious little one for you, which stretches and grows from picture book to picture book - higher and wider - in all directions! From the troubles he gets into - when he’s bored or sad, when he envies his best friend or feels the chills because he has to grow up - he regularly successfully gets out on his own (with help from Manuel and Roman, rhythm and rhyme, mom and dad, grandfather and grandmothers, groups from the neighborhood, and even a triangular cat!). What does he learn from everything, and how? Well, if you’re curious, take a look at the picture book; you might stretch and grow too!

Jura i gospođica zavisst, Illustrations by Manuel Šumberac

Olja: Roman, you have already written a series of picture books about Jura, who became the hero of some childhoods, but I also really like the novel for young people titled “Iva to the moon and back”. That all got postponed after you established yourself as an influential writer and editor for adults. Although you are not much older than me, I can freely say that I grew up on your first stories, and now my son is growing up on your children’s books. How did it happen that in adulthood, we become childish and start writing for children? And it’s not just our case; several well-known Croatian writers for adults have been writing for children in recent years. Can you explain what is happening to us? Is it a midlife crisis or something more important and beautiful?

Roman: Well, that’s how it seemed to me too. Many of the writers I met and loved through books for adults happily became childish overnight and turned, very convincingly, into children’s writers. But I wouldn’t blame the mid-life crisis for this metamorphosis; it’s the fault (as always) of the children who were born to us in the meantime, who grew up and opened us up to some craziness - among other things, writing. For me, this see-saw is very simple: I only write about what is important to me, and my two children have turned what is important to me on its head. Or put it on its feet, as you like. As the two of them grow up, so do the stories I write, so it seems that soon - alas! - I will write again about adults, for adults, or about former kids for former kids. No joke, part of the answer may be in a new normal; there are more and more great picture books and excellent books for children, they are more and more accessible and widely read, and along with good new authors, there are also specialized libraries and excellent critics who write about children’s books: you almost don’t need a slingshot and a plastic gun on your forehead to start writing children’s books!

Olja: I’ve messed around a lot with illustrators, who, without a doubt, are all great artists in their own right, but you’ve been loyal to Manuel Šumberec since the beginning. How did this collaboration begin? What won you over? And how did you create the character of Jura together?

Roman: And that’s right, my dear Olja, some people believe in authorillustrator monogamy! Just kidding, of course, but don’t tell Manuel that! I love many of our illustrators, but lady luck wanted our blind date on the first joint picture book of Baba Jaga i div Zaborav to be fun, so we decided to build on that good chemistry. To me, the process in which the story (something that is mine, only mine, my precious) becomes influenced by another head, another pair of eyes and hands, and separates and becomes independent from me, is now common. That process is built on communication, and although Manuel doesn’t speak much - with his instinct, artistic vision, storytelling talent and human vibe - he is a fantastic communicator. He gave Juri not only his face and figure, but the whole world, the colours in which he lives. And what kind of boy wants to live in a colourless world?

Olja: Which is your favourite picture book? Which one was the most fun to write?

Roman: Baba Yaga was our first, it was also my first, so I would gladly nominate it if only I was completely sure that it truly is a picture book for children. It means a lot to me because it is a tribute to one of the most wicked heroines of my childhood, a deep bow to the music and incomparable imagination of Ivana Brlić Mažuranić, and an attempt to find my own voice as a writer for children. Of the real children’s ones, my favourite is Jura i gospođica Zavissst. The story is beautifully combined with rhythm and some rhymes. In looking for a way to

talk about the feelings tormenting my children, I managed to approach the one I felt myself, to talk about it in a way other forms would not allow me.

Olja: In the last picture book (“Jura and instructions for growing up”), your beach and playground hero gets some important life lessons from girls. Can you reveal to the readers at least one of their secrets for growing up as painlessly as possible? Is it even desirable; is it possible?

Roman: I don’t know about you, but the idea that one day I will grow up and do everything that the adults around me do fills me with horror! Cooking, getting a job and making money, paying utilities, driving a car, getting married, and, God forbid, having children... these were all mysteries for which the me of that time had no key, and no one had a rug under which to look. At that time, I wasn’t thinking about pain, but about fear, the apprehension that I wouldn’t know how, that I wouldn’t be able to succeed... I have no idea if that doubt and that fear are universal, but they stuck in me, and I remember them well. I found them, for example, incomparably well written in The Book of Intimate Grammar, a wonderful novel by David Grossman. But in that book, growing up really hurts. My Jura gets his first lessons about adult life painlessly from his two relatives, red-haired twins who are admittedly somewhat younger than him, but like girls and twins, they are far more knowledgeable about the great mysteries of the world than he is. Guys have no choice but to learn from girls; feel free to ask Jura. And as for growing up completely painless, if you ask me, I’m not sure such a thing exists. Or, to put it a little differently: if it existed, maybe we shouldn’t invent it.

amazing cHildren’s Book illustrAtors

Get to know three of the best illustrators making magic in Croatia today

MAnuel ŠuMBerAc

Make no mistake about it; MAnuEl ŠuMBARAC is a man with his fingers in many pies. The Pula-born artist is a sought-after name in the worlds of illustration, animation and more, and his work can be seen everywhere, from animated films to music videos via feature films and more. Illustration is his bread and butter, and Šumbarac frequently works with major International publishing houses like Simon & Schuster, Penguin, Disney Books, HarperCollins and many more.

Manuel Šumbarac has won countless awards and given several exhibitions, and his body of work now includes five delightful illustrated books for children; Steampunk City: An Alphabetical Journey (2014), The Quest (2019), Het wachten waard (2020), Blue Flower (2020) and Very Tangled Knot (2021). What is next on the agenda for Manuel Šumberac? Time will tell, but we can’t wait to see. Whatever it is, it will be colourful, creative and completely magnificent.

www.instagram.com/manuelsumberac

Photo by Marija Gašparović

Jura i kako se postaje velik, Illustration by Manuel Šumberac

In a different world, celebrated illustrator vAnDA čIžMEk grew up to become an actress. Alas, an evil witch appeared and quashed that dream, but everything worked out pretty perfectly in the end. The award-winning illustrator developed a love for drawing at a young age, embracing it as an avenue for expression that transcended a world of words. The traditional routes were followed through the School for Applied Art and the Faculty of Graphic Arts before čižmek made her professional debut by illustrating an English language textbook for kids. The rest? Well, you know how that cliche goes.

Along the way, Vanda čižmek has found her style and developed it beautifully. čižmek has worked on a vast range of projects, from educational books to storytime champions, winning awards and bringing joy every step of the way. čižmek is arguably best known for her work on  Uhvati mi plavog medu, a charming story that has won awards, been translated into several languages, and also been adapted into a short animated film.

www.instagram.com/vandacizmek

Vanda Čizmek, Illustration from the book Catch me a “Blue bear” by Silvija Šesto, Ibis grafika.

HAjdinjAk

Much to the indignation of parents worldwide, apartment walls make the perfect canvas for excitable baby artists. There are several ways to deal with this; one is to resign yourself to painting the walls almost constantly, while the other is to buy the little creative some pens and paper and watch the magic happen. Luckily for all, Marsela Hajdinjak’s grandmother chose the latter, and a future star of illustration was born.

Born in Zagreb, MARSE l A H A j DI nj A k graduated from the School of Applied Arts and Design at the Faculty of Textile Technology and has been a professional illustrator since 1996. Over those years, Hajdinjak has worked extensively on children’s books, picture books, magazines, textbooks and much more, picking up award after award along the way. Her crowning glory? It has all been excellent, but in 2014, Hajdinjak found herself on the IBBY Honours List, for her work on Sunčana Škrinjarić’s iconic The Unhappy Ladybird

www.instagram.com/marsela_hajdinjak

Marsela Hajdinjak, Cover of the book “The Most Beautiful Fables”, publisher Mozaik knjiga, 2022.

Heritage

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tHe Art of pHotogrApHy petrA sloBodnjAk Feature photos by Petra Slobodnjak Winter festivities, cArnivAl of croAtiA

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HerITage

H ERITAGE IS SOMETHING THAT ENRICHES AND ENNOBLE OUR LIVES. I T IS IMPORTANT IN SHAPING OUR IDENTITY AND ALSO HELPS US LEARN, GROW AND UNDERSTAND DIFFERENT CULTURES, NEW WORLDS AND THEIR UNIQUENESS

Photo by Milan Šabić

Meet Petra Slobodnjak, a photographer and a graphic designer who manages to capture a breathtaking ‘world of movement’ in her photographs!

Find out more about Petra and her work on her social network.

tHe Art of pHotogrApHy petrA sloBodnjAk

P E t RA SlOBOD nj A k was born in Bjelovar in 1988. She graduated in 2012 from the Faculty of Graphics in Zagreb, majoring in Graphic Product Design. Since 2014, she has worked as a freelancer and an independent professional in graphic design and photography. In recent years, she exhibited her photographic works at eight solo and several group exhibitions. She is a member of the Croatian Union of Independent Artists (HZSU), the Croatian Association of Fine Artists of Applied Arts (ULUPUH) and the Croatian Design Society (HDD). For the exhibition Sale, which was exhibited in the ULUPUH Gallery in Zagreb, she received recognition from the Croatian Design Society at the Exhibition of Croatian Design 1718 in the category “Concept Initiative / Critical Design”. In 2014, she graduated from Restart’s Documentary Film School (film Sipanje) and received three scholarships from the American Agency VII.

Photo by Jelena Balić

“I have been involved in photography since my primary school days, and it has always been a space for play, intimacy and communication. I am a graphic designer by profession, so I am most fulfilled by the author’s projects that I work on. In addition to the exhibition, these projects receive their presentation in the physical form of a book, which is a space for the interaction of my media and professions. The Sale and DISPLACEMENT Planinska 7 are such projects, as well as the exhibition LADO / RELIEF / TRAGOVI, which was created on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the LADO Ensemble.

For the last seven years, I have been the photographer of the LADO Ensemble, and apart from what is visible on stage, I like to peek into the hustle and bustle backstage. I am fascinated by the speed with which the artists jump from one costume to another during the concert, taking care of even the smallest details. Backstage is a brand new show where the main actors do a wide range of jobs, from cleaning shoes to braiding and applying make-up.

Winter festivities, cArnivAl of croAtiA

The flair, the glare, the excitement and the dazzling costumes are just some of the elements we consider to be a part of any carnival.

Well, behold, and be prepared dear readers, as your traditional carnival in Croatia includes not only these glittering essentials but also something different, something spooky, something quite hair-raising, in fact. You may be scared right now but let us tell you that this is a great time to be in Croatia, as you can join the locals in scattering evil ghosts and releasing a year’s worth of frustrations all under the cover of fancy dress. This is, indeed, taken to be the norm, a ritual intended to cleanse your soul before the warm season of spring arrives.

You see, the Croatian carnival season is connected with ancient, local traditions that go back to the Middle Ages.

According to Slavic pagan customs, carnivals would begin closer to the beginning of the year when locals would parade the streets, marching and cheering.  They’d attend masquerades, fancy dress balls, wear costumes and sing to drive away evil spirits. This would continue until   Shrove Tuesday, the day before Lent - the time of fasting, a time of moving away from our wrong doings and preparing for Easter.

Quite often the final day of celebrations would finish with the ceremonial judgment of an imaginary character blamed for everything bad that had happened over the past year. In the Zagreb region this individual is styled on a prince and is named the fašnik, though his moniker is different in other parts of the country. But wherever you go, he is the one who represents all our problems, troubles and

miseries, who takes the blame and is then symbolically burned in a blazing bonfire. A little harsh, you say? Not in the least! Nowadays, carnivals around the country intertwine the customs of old with the fun and glamour of the present day. Everyone is welcome as the carnivals include all generations, with some wholehearted devotees preparing for the show all year round.

Every region has its own customs, so let’s get an insight into what’s happening and where...

TZZŽ Archives

Photo by Milan Šabić

AROUND ZAGREB Samobor Carnival

The idyllic town of Samobor is just a few kilometers away from Zagreb and has one of Croatia’s most popular and longest-running carnivals, originating in   1827. Strong political mockery is what labels all the carnival events in Samobor and that’s how it differs from the other carnival events in Croatia. The caricatures and puppets in the central square and side streets mock the current political situation in the country as well as well-known political figures and events that marked the previous year. Each shop, café and office seems to have a parody of its own displayed at the front for everyone to see and laugh at. Local doughnuts (krafne) stuffed with homemade apricot jam are sold on every corner and are counted among the best in the country.

On the first day of the carnival, Samobor’s mayor, traditionally abdicates and the key to the town is handed over to the Prince Fašnik (Prince Carnival), a famous carnival figure who impersonates all the misfortunes of the previous year Prince Fašnik and his bunch – Sraka (Magpie), Fiškal (smalltown lawyer) and Sudec (Judge) then take control of the whole town to the extreme satisfaction of the numerous visitors. Sraka is the central figure of the show and constantly mocks the crowd and the participants. On the last day of the ceremonies, Prince Fašnik is traditionally sentenced to death and the puppet representing the Prince is set ablaze signalling carnival’s successful conclusion. The key to the town is returned to its original owner, the Mayor, and after two weeks of great fun and high spirits, people go back to their everyday business.

TZG Sambor Archives

IN AND AROUND RIJEKA Rijeka Carnival

The Rijeka Carnival is by far the biggest and most popular carnival of all in Croatia! The sea-side city has a chill in the air at this time of year, but the carnival traditions that date back to the Middle Ages certainly hot things up. The Rijeka Carnival has become an international event with over ten thousand participants and more than a hundred floats and carts from dozens of different countries.

Bellringers

Zvončari (bellmen) is a  characteristic folk carnival custom in the Rijeka and Kvarner region which  was added to UNESCO’s Heritage List in 2009. The custom dates to Slavic pagan antiquity when the primary task of Zvončari was to scare away the evil spirits of winter and to stir up the new springtime cycle. During the Rijeka Carnival, Zvončari march from village to village throughout the region, following the same centuries-old route, making an extraordinary amount of noise, fuelled in part by the wine provided by the locals en route.

FURTHER DOWN SOUTH Carnival traditions in Senj

Not too distant from Rijeka is Senj, a little town huddled on the coast under the Velebit Mountains, on the way to Zadar. It’s famous for pirates, strong winds and fiery people. History has it that masked balls were held in the town as far back as 1658 which must explain why their carnival is so wild and such great fun.

Poklad of Lastovo island

Further south and off the Dalmatian mainland is the island of Lastovo with the oldest carnival tradition in Croatia and one of the oldest in Europe. The legend says that, when the Moors were besieging the town of Korčula in the Middle Ages, they sent a messenger to Lastovo with the request that the inhabitants surrender. Lastovians captured the messenger and put him in prison which prompted the angry Moors to send their ships to Lastovo to conquer it. A sudden storm blew away the enemy ships and Lastovo was saved. After that, Lastovians put the captured messenger on a donkey and paraded him around the village to mock him. Towards the evening, they extended a long rope from the top of hill (nowadays called the Carnival Hill) and the bottom of the village and lowered him on that rope. Lastovo carnival is performed in accordance with very strict rules and procedures. Since it is so peculiar and unique, the Croatian Ministry of Culture in 2008 added the Carnival to the List of the Intangible Cultural Goods, where it has been ever since.

For further information on carnival events, check out local Tour Board sites.

greaT WInTer sPoTs

Čigoč, Lonjsko polje viewpoint, Photo by Marko Mihaljević

aquaTiK a - freshWaTer aquarium Karlovac

Karlovac is famous for its four rivers, each one just as lovely as the other. This beautiful modern aquarium is devoted to local freshwater life, enabling us to get to know our fishy friends better and understand more fully just how rich in beauty and biodiversity the Karlovac region is.QUlica Branka Čavlovića Čavleka 1a, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 65 91 12, www.aquariumkarlovac.com

d o T rščina

One of the few memorial sites within reach of central Zagreb is Dotrščina, a forest park northeast of the centre where political opponents were murdered by forces of the NDH. The sculptor Vojin Bakić  was comissoned to create a series of monuments, each of which resembles a large angular crystal made from shiny reflective steel.  The largest of these stands at the entrance to the site; further, smaller ones are located in a wooded vale where individual executions were carried out. Wit the leaves and branches of the forest reflected on the surfaces of the sculptures, it’s a beautiful, visually inspiring spot.  QPark Dotrščina, Zagreb, www.dotrscina.hr

d u B ovac c as T le

The Dubovac Castle is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful monuments of medieval architecture in Croatia. Built on a prehistoric hill above the river Kupa, it was named after the dubs, the oaks growing on the surrounding slopes. The castle changed hands many times throughout history and its current appearance is the result of a comprehensive restoration carried out during the mid-twentieth century. Within the castle you will come across a museum and a nice cosy restaurant with a touch of Medieval times. QZagradGaj 5, Karlovac, www.mgk.hr

d u B rovni K c i T y Walls

Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city,

great Winter spots

a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.QDubrovnik, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr

Gree T in G T o T he s un in z adar

Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QRiva, Zadar.

Ivanina Kuca Bajke, Photo Domagoj Blažević

Greeting to the Sun Zadar, Photo by Tim Ertl

great Winter spots

l ar G e c arnivores v isi T or c en T re, sTara s ušica

It is time to get up close and personal with the big three beasts of Croatia. Anyone interested in learning about bears, wolves or lynxes should head to Stara Sušica and the Velike Zvijeri (the Large Carnivores Visitor Centre) for a multimedia extravaganza that shines a light on the biggest meat-eaters in this part of the world. The centre is located close to the gorgeous castle of the Frankopan family, but that is just a beautiful addition to the education and excitement of the centre. Head into the marvellous forest and fall in love.  QKarolinska cesta 89, Ravna Gora, tel. (+38551) 21 48 17, www.centar-velikezvijeri.eu/en

m edved G rad

Here you can learn about various plant and animal species of the Nature Park, find out the history of the Castle and visit various cultural heritage sites as well as Medvednica cave and mine while in the area. Medvedgrad Castle itself has an incredible story to tell. It was built in 1254 and was one of the largest Croatian

noble courts. Throughout its history, it was ruled by over 150 masters and was never conquered. You will hear some horrible stories that have cemented Medvedgrad’s reputation as a haunted castle. The Medvedgrad Museum has a lot of attractions for all ages. You can try themed walks, enjoy summer concerts, bring your kids to one of the interactive workshops or even organise an event or a seminar here. How unreal is that?  QMedvednica Mountain, Zagreb.

m eđimurje - m ed dvemi vodami

The Međimurje tour was conceived from the idea of promoting of a back-to-nature tour:  meandering down the rivers, wandering through wetlands, sandbars, distributaries, oxbow lakes, meadows and floodplain forests. Along the way, we encounter fish and birds, bats, ducks, butterflies, dragonflies, deer, wild boars, otters, beavers, frogs and turtles, foxes, owls, eagles - the list is endless! Visitors can turn into goldpanners [LM1] and try to collect gold nuggets from the Drava River, or they can make their voices sound like ducks that paddle in the local wetlands.

Aquatika, Photo by Denis Stošić

Nothing inside the Centre is static this place into an exciting and fun educational platform for both adults and kids alike.  QTrg međimurske prirode 1, Križovec, Mursko Središće, tel. (+385 - ) 095 928 41 45, www.med-dvemi-vodami.info/en

The m eš T rović familly m ausoleum in oTavice

Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists. Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.  QOtavice, Ružić, www.mestrovic.hr

The s ea o r G an in z adar Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the everchanging sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. QObala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Zadar.

Tra Košćan c as T le (dvorac Tra Košćan)

Trakošćan is a castle with fairytale beauty in northern Croatia and one of the most romantic castles that you can visit in your lifetime. Surrounded by the beautiful forest and lake park, the eight-centuries-old castle is one of the most attractive castle-museums in Europe. Learn all about the Thracian fortress,Arx Thracorum and the German knights, Drachenstein,explore the legends of the dragon and the lavish life of the Croatian aristocracy over the past centuries. QTrakošćan 4, Bednja, www.trakoscan.hr

Medvedgrad, Photo by Marko Edge

CroaTIan PIzza Tour

Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails Archives

4 K an T una

This informal modern restaurant and pizzeria located on an atmospheric square reopened in 2017 and has proven to be a hit. It serves everything from salads, bruschettas, pastas and risottos to fish and a particularly imaginative offering of grilled meats. The dessert menu is especially popular with guests.QVaroška 1, Zadar, tel. (+385-) 091 313 53 82, www.restaurant4kantuna.com

Bo K amorra p izzauran T & coc KTails

An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light, soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic) and you have a rather special experience.QObala Ante Trumbića 16, Split, www.facebook.com/bokamorra

d u K sa

It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Also at Ede Murtića 11 (Bundek Centar) and Tkalčićeva 88.QDuknovićeva 4, Zagreb, www.duksa.hr

fran Ko’s p izza and Bar

The first thing that catches your eye, a very cosy and beautiful interior in the style of the 60s. Not far from the city centre, you can come from the square with tram number 6, get off at the intersection of Držićeva and Šubićeva, and then walk a hundred metres. Pizzas are great, there are many varieties to choose from, ingredients are from top local suppliers. Prices are higher than in other pizzerias.QBranimirova 71a, Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 653 08 84, www.en.frankos.hr

Karijola

This second opened location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at Badalićeva 18, (+385-1) 366 70 44.QVlaška 63, Zagreb, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16, www.pizzeria-karijola.com

lučica

A restaurant with 25 years of family tradition. The prices are fair and while ordering pizza would not be a mistake, we’d recommend to try some of the great grill meat or fish dishes. It’s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QLučica 7, Split.

Croatian Pizza Tour

m aslina na z elenom T r G u

A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts. Daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, and vegetarian dishes too.QKoblerov trg bb, Rijeka, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.mnzt.hr

r uspan T e

Good pizza is good pizza is good pizza, right? Absolutely, but there is a difference between good pizza and great pizza, and Ruspante falls firmly on the latter side of that ledger. The pies are wood-fired and cooked to perfection in a setting that screams ‘hey, come here, eat some gorgeous pizza’. There are plenty of good reasons to visit Otočac, and Ruspante Pizzeria is right up there.  QSinac 135, Otočac, tel. (+385 - 053) 78 77 87, www.facebook.com/ruspantesinac

m ea c ulpa

Tucked away in a quiet and peaceful old medieval alleyway just 100 metres away from Stradun, Mea Culpa is a great place for good pizza and cold refreshments after climbing the City Walls. Every dish here is prepared fresh to order using only the best ingredients. Talented pizza chefs are taught the traditional Roman methods of creating the perfect pizza and bake them in a special high tech pizza oven. Their menu ranges from traditional to unique pizza flavours, and includes a wide array of Italian dishes, lasagnes and a pasta selection that you’d find in top Italian restaurants.QZa Rokom 3, Dubrovnik, tel. (+38520) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com

Tri B unara

This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QJurja Bijankinija 8c, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90, www.pizzeria-tri-bunara.com

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