Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 2022

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Dubrovnik Summer 2022

Summer Nights Cafes, bars and other hot spots under the stars

N°32 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Foreword E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Top Summer Events

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Vlaho Bukovac Centenary

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Local Flavour

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Restaurants

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Coffee & Cakes

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Hangin’ Out

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Sightseeing

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Top Sights around Dubrovnik

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

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Shopping

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Arrival & Getting Around

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ON THE COVER

Photo: Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

Maps & Street Register Street Register City Map City Centre Map

47 48 50

The best time to visit the Old Town which is under UNESCO’s protection is first thing in the morning or late in the evening when it feels like a vivacious summertime city rather than an exercise in physical endurance. And if you want to go up onto the walls, don’t leave it till mid-morning, when it can get too hot.

Above all, don’t treat the Old Town as the only show in town: take the seafront path from Lapad to Babin Kuk, or explore the bustle of Gruž harbour.

If you decide to take a cable car to the summit of Mount Srđ, plan to spend an hour or two strolling on the plateau behind the cable-car station or head east to the village of Bosanka. High summer in Dubrovnik may be perfect for mid-day siestas in case you decide to stay in the city itself. Since this year you won’t be dealing with the usual summer crowds, you will have time and space to explore both Dubrovnik and its surrounding exclusively.

Don’t stick to the nooks and crannies of the city only, take a chance to explore the lush gardens of Trsteno or wild beauty of the Elafiti Islands.

The whole Dubrovnik region is known for its fascinating landscapes, abundant Mediterranean vegetation, mild climate and picturesque settlements. You can consider taking a ferry or catamaran to the island of Mljet where you can stroll around the fascinating saltwater lakes comprising the breathtaking Mljet National Park, one of eight National Parks in Croatia. Take a chance to see as much as you can while in Dubrovnik – you won’t regret it!

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Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield, John William Bills Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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Summer Events 01.04 - 30.10 » War in my Neighbourhood - Lebanon

Photographs by Patrick Baz - War came to my neighbourhood when I was just 12 years old. My friends and I would swagger with the local militia fighters. I was too young to fight, but transfixed by the mechanical “glamour” of war. At 17 I swapped the Kalashnikov for a camera and became a photojournalist. QK‑2, Homeland War Museum, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill.

18.05 - 03.07 » Josip Ivanović: Autići

Covering a decade of the artist’s career, Autići (‘Cars’, basically) showcases Josip Ivanović at his very best. These are paintings conjured up through a variety of techniques, from acrylic on canvas to wooden sculptures, all using the humble car as a starting point. The simplicity of the car inspires complex art, and the two are married in this marvellous exhibition, with start colours and unique abstract compositions. The exhibition runs until the beginning of July. QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90.

31.05 - 19.08 » The Linđo Folk Ensemble

The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Old City in front of Dubrovnik Cathedral.QL‑2, Lazareti, Frana Supila bb, 120, www.lindjo.hr. Every Tuesday & Thursday.

atmosphere of the Lopud island. Local people will beactively participating in the program through presentation of the traditional handicrafts and souvenirs, customs and local food. In partnership with the Lopud 1483 Foundation of the famous collector Francesca Thyssen-Bornemisza, all visitors of the Ponta Lopud Festival will be able to visit the restored Renaissance Franciscan monastery of Our Lady of Špilica and the ThyssenBor family art collection, according to the pre-arranged schedule. Admission to film screenings and other parts of the publicly announced program, is free. During the Festival days the special boat transfer will be organized from Dubrovnik and back at a symbolic price. QLopud, Obala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+38520) 32 23 22, www.pontalopud.hr/en/.

01.07 - 03.07 » Latin Music Festival

Get those hips prepped, because there is dancing to be done. Taking place on July 1 and 2, the Latin Music Festival is ready to take over Dubrovnik in a whirlwind of salsa, Zumba, reggaeton and all the rest. Expect plenty of live music, DJ performances and all the dancing you can handle. The full festival program can be found over at the website. This will be Dubrovnik’s first Latin Music Festival, but we’re pretty sure it won’t be the last. QLazareti, Frana Supila bb, https://www.latindubrovnik.com/hr.

Midsummer Scene Archives

21.06 » Ana in The City

Croatian cellist Ana Rucner is once again appearing on the first day of summer, June 21. She perform at 05:00 as they greet the first summer sunrise at the top of the Srdj Mountain. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and this is your chance to welcome summer in a very different way, in an early sunrise, surrounded with nature and great performance.Qwww.anarucner.com.

21.06 - 05.07 » Midsummer scene - Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet

Josip Ivanović, Autići, 2022, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik Archives

Devotees to plays and most of all, a love story, mustn’t miss this fabulous tale with a modern twist. This version is also set in Verona but in the 1960s where two love-struck teens fall head over heels for each other. Yet, they are divided by their feuding families. How will it end? Come and see as this British cast and production give Shakespeare’s classic, another fictional finale! In addition, a handful of other drama and music events will be held. See the full programme at http://midsummer-scene.com.QK‑3, Lovrijenac For‑ tress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, www. midsummer-scene.com.

22.06 - 27.06 » Ponta Lopud Festival

Ponta Lopud Festival has been organized in cooperation with the Sarajevo Film Festival, and brings film screenings in the open as well as unique gourmet experiences, all in a relaxed facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Summer 2022

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Summer Events Ponta Lopud Festival Archives

10.07 - 25.08 » 73rd Dubrovnik Summer Festival

Few cultural events are associated with their home base quite so closely as the Dubrovnik Festival, a renowned cultural showcase which – famously – stages performances in ambient venues all over the historic city.

First held in 1950, the festival this year celebrates its 73rd edition, cementing its role as Croatia’s foremost artistic flagship. With a programme that embraces theatre, orchestral music, opera and ballet, the festival as always brought top international performers to the city and delivered art of unimpeachably high standards. While not being an overtly avant-garde festival it has never shied away from experimentation, and the programme tries to strike a balance between the classical and the contemporary. QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.dubrovnik-festival. hr.

15.07 - 16.07 » Dubrovnik Craft Beer Festival

If beer brings cheer, then bring it on! Dubrovnik is hosting this fabulous festival with a jam packed programme to ensure not a dull moment is to be had. Join in on the two days of fun, music and plentiful craft beers available as there has been a boom in Croatia and abroad in the ‘craftsmanship of beer’. Be part of the movement!QSolitudo, Pasadur 1, Pasadur, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 21 00, 150.

20.07 - 04.09. » Mara Bratoš: Truth

The naked body has been an integral part of artistic creation since, well, forever, but contemporary photog6

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rapher Mara Bratoš puts her own spin on the form. Bratoš shoots her own nudes, and this compelling exhibition follows the transformation of the body in both tangible and intangible forms. There is mystery, there is poetry, but above all else, there is a soul to this exhibition that cannot be manufactured. Art in its most magical skin.

The exhibition runs through July and August. QL‑5, Mu‑ seum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90.

07.08 - 13.08 » The Neretva boat (lađa) marathon

Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. maraton-ladja.hr.

26.08 - 23.09 » International Late Summer Music Festival

Dubrovnik is truly a city of culture all year round and this music festival, which was launched by the Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra, was aimed at keeping the city’s musical and cultural vibrancy alive. Until mid-September, a number of prestigious European musicians will perform works by famous classical composers in the enchanting ambience of the Rector’s Palace.QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Summer Events 17.09 - 18.09 » Ston Wall Marathon

This unique marathon race takes place in the equally unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘European Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the 15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very own pace.QSton, Pelješac, Main Square, www.ston-wall-marathon.com.

26.09 - 01.10 » Stradun Classic

One of the nations most gifted musicians Marija Pavlović returns home and will be performing with the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. Quests will include Renata Pokupić (mezzo-soprano), Maria Meerovitch (piano), Monika Leskovar (violoncello), Celine Flamen (violoncello), Tom Owen (oboe), Alja Velkaverh-Roskams (flute), Pieter Nuytten (bassoon), Boštjan Lipovšek (horn) and Frano Kakarigi (double bass).QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

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Kino Mediteran

A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular we mourned the loss of open air cinemas which offered the particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for ten years now been reinstituting cinemas in Dalmatia, with cinemas in 20 towns along the coast and islands. The films on show are current blockbusters, the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project grow and grow! Locations: Split (Bačvice Open Air cinema), Bol, Supetar, Hvar, Jelsa, Komiža, Lastovo, Imotski, Ploče, Podgora, Cavtat, Korčula, Makarska, Mljet, Selca, Šolta, Trogir, Trpanj. Check the program: www.kinomediteran.hr

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Vlaho Bukovac Centenary This year sees the centenary of the death of Vlaho Bukovac, the Cavtat-born painter who defined Croatian painting at the start of the twentieth century.

Vlaho Bukovac, Portrait of Mary, 1921, oil on canvas Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik Archives

Born in Cavtat in 1855, Bukovac was the most international of Croatia painters, forging a career in Paris and the UK, energizing the nascent art scene in Zagreb, and finishing up as professor at the Fine Art Academy in Prague.

The centenary is a big deal for the local community, and will be marked by a string of events organized by the Museums and Galleries, of Konavle (www.migk.hr), the umbrella organization responsible for the Bukovac House in Cavtat alongside other local historical attractions.

Throughout the year, a series of talks, film shows and discussions will be held at the Bukovac House. There will also be workshops for children, residencies for designers, concerts, and lectures in English for summer visitors. The role played by family background and home-town milieu in the artist’s inspiration and development will provide one of the key themes.

Bukovac’s relationship with Cavtat - and Cavtat’s relationship with Bukovac - will be explored further byVlaho Bukovac in the Collective Memory of Cavtat, a major exhibition that will take over the Bukovac House from April 2022 onwards. Before the end of the year, there will be another exhibition devoted to the restoration work carried out on Bukovac’s pictures by the Croatian Restoration Institute in Zagreb.

11.08 - 02.10. Vlaho Bukovac

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To celebrate the centenary of the death of a genius, the life and works of Vlaho Bukovac will get the appropriate spotlight in Dubrovnik’s Museum of Modern Art. Bukovac is widely created as the founder of modern Croatian painting, so expect plenty of influential works at the exhibition. This is all about bringing this icon to a new generation of fans, and the 80 pieces of work traverse his entire oeuvre, including his phases in Paris, Zagreb and Prague. Historical context is provided along the way. Without Bukovac, Croatian art would be a very different thing, so pay your respects at this super important exhibition. QL‑5, Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90.

Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Bukovac’s birthday on July 4 will be marked by the publication of a lavish new book on the artist, written by one of Croatia’s leading art historians, Igor Zidić.

Throughout the year the Bukovac House will be forging ahead with plans to develop its virtual content, something you can explore for yourself by visiting the designated site at https://bukovac.migk.hr Regardless of whether there’s a major anniversary going on, Bukovac remains a constant and treasured element of local heritage, and his house in Cavtat is the perfect place to get acquainted with his life and times. It’san intimate, domestic space that brings out the artist as an individual who had a long and adventurous life, as well as displaying a sumptuous collection of his paintings. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world. Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local. The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish – grilled meat – pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognese. However, with handmade pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

Good Food Festival Archives

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Local Flavour Ston Cake, Good Food Festival Archives

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways.

While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce?

Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy. The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel.

Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.­W

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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RESTAURANT GLORIJET - HOTEL SPLENDID

ADRIATIC FOOD CORNER

LIDO BEACH BAR - HOTEL VIS

Restaurants Croatian Bistro Tavulin With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of traditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have you rushing for the cash machine. Homemade agnolotti filled with adriatic shrimps is something of a signature dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish and slow cooked veal are among the other regular stand-outs, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00-22:00. (80-160kn).

P­G­B­J­6­ Dalmatino Dubrovnik After several years building up a reputation in the alleys south of Stradun Dalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko, where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street. The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian classics served up with a touch of modern European flair, with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you should try is žrnovski makaruli, the tubular pasta from Korčula which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www. dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00. (90220kn). A ­P GTUBJ6­W

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Kamenice Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00-23:00. (80-140kn). A ­U­B­J Konoba Jezuite With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Jesuit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up diner alike. The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish, chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to getting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seriously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-20) 30 10 14, www.jezuite.com. Open 09:0023:00. (100-200kn). A­P­G­­T­B­J­ Levanat This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialities are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour.

However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax. QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com.

Open 08:00-24:00. (250-300kn). A­P­G­U­B­W

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Restaurants

D A L M AT I A N F L AV O U R S W I T H A PERSONAL TOUCH

R E S TA U R A N T T R A M U N TA N A

Nika i Meda Pucića 13 + 385 (0) 20 494 200 more@hotel-more.hr

www.restaurant-tramuntana.com

Orsan The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00.

(80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­ Pupo Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of wellprepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www.pupodubrovnik.com. Open 12:00-22:00. (106-250kn). A ­G­T­U­B­S­J­­K Tramuntana This trendy restaurant has a wonderful sea view, situated on the waterfront over in Babin Kuk. Situated well away from the insane crowds in the Old Town of Dubrovnik, here you can experience the sort of serene nature you might otherwise only see in the movies. Tramuntana is one of the best places on the peninsula to try any number of fish dishes and other traditional, expanded upon Dalmatian food such as veal medallions in truffle sauce and linguini with beefsteak and truffle sauce (they do like their truffles!). QNika i Meda Pucića 13, tel. (+ 385- 20) 49 42 00, www.restaurant-tramuntana.com. Open 18:0023:00. (145 - 220kn). A­P­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Ethnic Asia Croatia’s tourist capital continues to see its culinary offer expand evermore. Already a fixture in the actual capital, Asia Restaurant can now be found in Dubrovnik. Situated on Mali Stradun, near the coastal walks of Babin Kuk, here you will experience all that Asia promises: flavour, the clarity of spice, and freshness. The menu is comprehensive and features several fixed options so that you needn’t spend an age choosing what to get. Absolutely perfect for dining right before taking a romantic stroll down to the park in Lapad.QF‑1, Mali Stradun bb, tel. (+385 - 20) 20 61 17, www.asia-dubrovnik.com.hr. Open 12:00-23:00.

(65-165kn). N Taj Mahal Although the name might make you think of India this is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Traditional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for two provides you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese. Recent renovations have totally transformed Taj’s interior, with Orientalstyle tiling, ceiling carving and wall-hangings turning this into a veritable palace of Bosnian delights. Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, hotel Lero. QNike Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:0024:00. (100-350kn). A­PG­­T­B­S­6­W Summer 2022

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Restaurants International Lucin Kantun Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lucin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach which means that you can order several small plates of different things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the approach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley. QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00-22:00. (49 - 220kn).

A ­P­G­T­U­B­J­6­W More Dubrovnik is more than just a tourist hotspot, it’s also a great place to find great food. Here you can enjoy a wide range of menus, from local to regional to international. Crawfish, salmon, all the way down to lamb, pork, veal, beefsteak! More has more of everything. The wine list is extensive, featuring many names you’ll already be familiar with. Pošip, Plavac, sourced from local vineyards with ever-growing reputation, and a dozen malvazijas and chardonnays that would take paragraphs alone. For dessert, the coconut mousse with white chocolate is well regarded by tourists and locals alike.

QKardinala Stepinca 33, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www. restaurant-more.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (160 - 280kn).

A­P­W Pantarul Located near a road junction in the residential part of Lapad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experimentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley, beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Pantarul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should always reserve.

QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www. pantarul.com. Open 12:00-22:00; closed Mon. (92 - 148kn).

A­PGTS­L­W

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

J Old town location

Porat Restaurant & Bar Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby market;although the accompanying sauces and spices may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www.porat-dubrovnik.com.

Open 07:30–22:30. (70 - 150kn). A ­P­G­TUBS­6 Stara loza Situated at the heart of Dubrovnik’s Old Town, in a historical palace over half a century old, ‘’Stara Loza’’ offers daily fresh Mediterranean ingredients, combined into innovative, flavourful dishes. The restaurant’s vision is to provide you with the experience of excellent cuisine, enriched with a subtle, melancholic salute to Dubrovnik’s authentic and rich history.

To compliment the Chef’s creations, their wine cellar offers the finest Croatian wines carefully selected by the restaurant’s skilled team. The interior is decorated with contemporary art making sure that all of your senses are pleased. The efforts of this young, talented team were recognised in 2017 by the esteemed Michelin guide, in which the restaurant is featured to this day. With its exquisite cuisine, unique rooftop terrace with breathtaking views, superb service and amazing architectural and visual appeal, ‘’Stara Loza’’ will definitely provide for an authentic, memorable Dubrovnik experience.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www.prijekopalace.com. Open 08:00-22:30. (120 - 210kn). A ­P­G­B­J­

Mediterranean Above 5 Restaurant Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City.

Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited. 3 courses or 5 courses menus for lunch and dinner.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (695 - 1075 kn). A­T­B­J­ Banje Beach Restaurant Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a predominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cocktails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-) 099 3146 485, www.banjebeach.com. Open 12:00-24:00. (65 - 200kn). A ­P­G­B­J­W

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Restaurants Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Café Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www. nautikarestaurants.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (100 224kn). A­P ­G ­U ­B­ Fish Restaurant Proto Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

(200 - 480kn). A ­P­G­U­B­W Gradska kavana Arsenal In real-estate they say that location is important and this is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from breakfast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establishment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 08:00-23:00. (100 - 224kn). A ­P­G­B­J Gusta me Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate, Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adriatic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric. The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in plums and red wine). QE‑1, Ulica maestra Đela Jusića bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik. com. Open 08:30-23:00. (70 - 200kn). A­P ­G ­T­ U­B S6­W Kavana Lazareti The quarantine complex of the Republic of Ragusa is the unlikely-sounding but impressive and atmospheric setting for this wonderful restaurant. Fabulous cocktails, inspirational cooking and excellent service have earned the Kavana rave reviews with guests. Put your trust in the friendly staff to recommend the best the menu has 16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

to offer: there’s something for everyone, and prices are very fair. QE‑2, Frana Supila 10, tel. (+385-) 97 676 71 14, www.kavanalazareti.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (100 - 200kn). J Nautika The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. 5-courses and 7-courses menus available.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www. nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00-24:00. (360 480kn). A ­P­G­­B­J­W Panorama Restaurant & Bar Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering absolutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respectable restaurant that maintains high standards of food and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly popular; always make a reservation. QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00-22:00.

(100 - 182kn). A ­P­G­­B­W Poklisar The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. Live piano-bar music in the evenings adds a touch of romance to the proceedings.QD‑2, Ribarnica 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 76, www.poklisar.com. Open 09:0023:00. (98 - 220kn). A ­P GTUBE­J­W Sesame Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 minute walk from the Old Town. The food is all sourced locally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beefsteak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lobster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top that main! QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 09:00-23:00. (60-200 kn). A ­P­T­B­S­J­6­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Cozy gourmet restaurant & pizzeria located on the historic Dubrovnik landmark LAZARETI. Enjoy a delicious breakfast in the mornings, authentic Croatian dishes and desserts in the evenings, or stop by for a crispy pizza.

Book your table at: kavanalazareti.com +385 97 6767 114 facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Pizza&Pasta Mea Culpa Tucked away in a quiet and peaceful old medieval alleyway just 100 metres away from Stradun, Mea Culpa is a great place for good pizza and cold refreshments after climbing the City Walls. Every dish here is prepared fresh to order using only the best ingredients. Talented pizza chefs are taught the traditional Roman methods of creating the perfect pizza and bake them in a special high tech pizza oven. Their menu ranges from traditional to unique pizza flavours, and includes a wide array of Italian dishes, lasagnes and a pasta selection that you’d find in top Italian restaurants.QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria. com. Open 12:00-23:00. (70 - 262kn). A­P ­G ­B­ S­J­W Pasta Lab Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingredients and sauce available which is then added to the chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Arabiata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik. com/pasta-lab/. Open 10:00-24:00. (38 - 75 kn).

A ­P­G­­T­B­S­J­W Tabasco The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open 10:00-24:00. (90 99kn). A ­P G­T­B­S­V­W

Quick Eats Barba Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, and tuna or shrimp burgers. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 11:00-24:00. (39 - 74kn). A ­P­G­T­S­J­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Bistro 49 This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste… Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž harbour, a major transit point. The menu personifies everything from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experience at Bistro 49. QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 38, www.bistro49-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00-22:00; closed Sun. (56-107kn). A ­B­V­W

Tuttobene Pizzeria & Fast Food Whether you are enjoying a family beach day, sunset on the promenade, coffee with a view or kids’ play time, count on needing a sumptuous meal at some point. Sea, sun, fresh air… translates to hungry, yes? And a relaxed day deserves some relaxed food! Grab one slice or sit down to share a pizza, at Tuttobene they promise to crown your Old Town or Uvala Lapad (Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, Open 12:00 - 23:00) time with some cool atmosphere and savory bites. QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik. com. Open 11:00-22:00. (30 - 270kn). A­U­J­W

Burger Tiger This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:0002:00. (44-85kn). A ­P­G­­T­B­S­J­W

Nishta Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www.nishtarestaurant. com. Open 11:30-22:00; closed Sun. (45 - 120kn).

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Out of town Metković Villa Neretva A family run hotel offering photo safaris in the Neretva delta and local freshwater delicacies such as eel and frog. If your courage doesn’t extend that far, you can choose from a solid range of traditional meat dishes including Dalmatian pašticada – beef in sauce with prunes and gnocchi.QSplits‑ ka 14, Krvavac 2, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 67 22 00/(+385-) 098 36 17 00, www.hotel-villa-neretva.com. Open 09:0023:00. (50 - 120kn). A ­P­G­­T­B­I­E­S­L­6­W

Mlini Marinero Nestled within the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka is a beacon of homemade and seasonal cuisine, with many of the ingredients coming from Marinero’s own garden. The view of the sea is breathtaking, accentuated by a peaceful breeze and some seriously delicious food. Be sure to leave room for dessert, many of which are based on grandma’s secret recipes. Add convivial service and Marinero is a konoba worth going out your way to visit.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 69 96 13/(+385-) 098 165 54 54, www.marinero.hr. Open 17:00-23:00. (90 - 250kn).

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STON Kapetanova kuća Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 42 64, www.ostrea.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (100 - 300kn).

A­PG­T­B­L­W Vila Koruna The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vila-koruna.hr. Open 08:0022:00. (75 - 210kn). A ­P­G­U­B­L­J­W

Zaton Orsan Gverović This fine family villa has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QNa ratu 7, Za‑ ton, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (150 - 300kn).

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Coffee & Cakes Cave Bar More This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com.

Open 10:00-24:00. A­W Cogito Coffee Shop In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an altogether charming place to recharge.QD‑4, Stajeva 5, www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00-16:00. From June 01 Open 09:00 - 19:00. A

Dolce Vita This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00-24:00.

N ­P­B Peppino’s Ice Cream Ice cream is getting better in Dubrovnik and Peppino’s is one of the reasons why, with a great range of creamy flavours (from crowd-pleasing Ferrero Rocher to more niche flavours like pistaccio an hazelnut) sold from a small shop right behind the Stradun. It’s available in cornets or tubs at 18kn per scoop. QC‑3, Od Puča 9, tel. (+385-) 091 459 00 02, www. peppinosgelato.com/. Open 11:00-23:00. N­W

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Hangin’ Out Arsenal This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dance floor – in any order or combination.

Spectacular.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 63/(+385-) 098 983 08 31, www.nautikarestaurants.com/ gradska-kavana-arsenal/hr/. Open 08:00-00:00. 18-35 €.

A­P­G­­B­W Banje Beach Night Club The Banje Beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-) 099 3146 485/(+385-) 099 3146 485, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00-04:00. A­P­B­W Buža What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:30-02:00. Open 09:00 - 01:00 or ac‑ cording to weather conditions. B Buzz Bar Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25. Open 08:00-02:00. kava 1,5 - koktel 50 €. PUB­E­J­6­W Casablanca Bar One of several bars squeezed together on this old-town stepped street, Casablanca is the one that makes most of an effort, backing up a rather fine selection of drinks, shots and cocktails with a pumping collection of DJ-driven tunes. As the sister-bar of the Revelin nightclub it’s the warm-up venue of choice for the city’s clubbers, and generates a sufficient party atmosphere of its own for those who just don’t have the energy to budge.QC‑2, Ul. Zamanjina 7. Open Sat, Sun 20:00-02:00. J Cele Dubrovnik Gourmet & Lounge Situated on the city’s most desirable corner, Cele is the kind of place you will want to visit at least once during your stay in order to soak up the surrounds, write postcards, or simply watch the world go by. Dark brown furnishings and bluealmost-black walls give the place a suave contemporary elegance; a jaunty-looking disco ball occasionally gets a spin in the evenings. As well as good coffee Cele serves up quality Croatian wines, cocktails, and a range of food to keep you 22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

going - toasted sandwiches, fancily garnished burgers, pizzas, and a few traditional seafood dishes. QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04 00, www.celedubrovnik.com/. Open 07:30-02:00. A­B­W Dubina Club Originally slated for a spring 2020 opening and put on ice due to the pandemic, long-awaited alternative venue Dubina (“The Deep”) finally opened its doors in April 2022. Housed in the former TUP factory, currently home to a range of local cultural organizations, Dubina aims to restore a sense of community to Dubrovnik’s nightlife scene, providing a podium for local and regional DJs, and a stage for local bands. It also restores a much-needed sense of urban cool to a Dubrovnik scene hollowed out by mass tourism. It’s usually open weekends - check the facebook page for current schedule. QH‑1, Svetog Križa 3, www.facebook.com/klubdubina. Open Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. From June 21st open 23:00 - 05:00, closed Sun, Mon. Gaffe Pub For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.

QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:0002:00. A ­P­G­B­J­6­W Glam Beer Therapy Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between. QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00-02:00. N ­P­G­B­J­6­W Hard Rock Cafe Although still not open at the time of going to press, the Dubrovnik debut of the global fun rock-and-burger joint will be one of the major openings of 2022. It will certainly have one of the best locations in town, occupying the colonnaded courtyard of a medieval monastery just inside the Old Town gate.

There’s been a Hard Rock souvenir shop at this location for some time, selling branded Hard-Rock goods: well you’ve got the T-shirt, so now you can go and eat the burger. QPoljana Paska Miličevića 4.

Irish Pub Karaka Located a stone’s throw from the Stradunbut tucked into an intimate alley, this alien presence in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like the Irish term Craic;the dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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PalmotIćeva 5, Old City of Dubrovnik name couldn’t have been better chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots of international big-screen sport. QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. Open 09:00-24:00.

A­PG­T­B­J­W Irish Pub The Gaffe 2 Expanding its hold on Dubrovnik’s drinking habits, longserving Irish-themed outfit The Gaffe has opened a sister pub on the northern side of the Stradun, taking over the first-floor bar previously known as Exit Rock Cafe. It’s a warm and welcoming space with lots of woody decor, and Guinness, Stella, and beers from the Ožujsko stable on tap. Almost all major sporting events will be on the telly, and live bands will leap onto the tiny stage every night during the summer season.

As an upstairs venue without an outdoor terrace, it makes an intimate bolt-hole from the crowded streets below. QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, www.facebook.com/IrishPubTheGaffe2/.

Open 09:00-24:00. N ­P­E­J­W Lazareti These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, Revelin Club Archives

+385 (0)91 151 8257

@glamdu

cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www. lazareti.com. Open 21:00-04:00.

Mama’s Restaurant and Bar Super-sleek cocktail bar and eatery that revels in plush surfaces, dark tones and atmospheric lighting. The menu focuses on generous platters of party sharing food, with pizzas, ribs and wings well to the fore. Shisha pipes are also available and the DJ decks come in for a pummeling in the evening. QC‑2, Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385- ) 091 622 29 78. Open 09:0002:00.

None Nina A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09. Open 09:00-02:000. A ­PBE­W Sunset Beach Bar The Beach Bar is part of the Sunset Beach complex, located directly by the sea and it is an ideal place to relax for coffee or juice, through to cocktails or beer. If you are not directly within the beach bar, the waiter will still be able to take your order at any of the sunbed or cabanas areas or deck chairs which you can rent for either half or full day. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Sunset Beach, Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-) 020 64 27 00, www.sbd.hr. Open 08:00-23:00.

The Imperial Bar & Lounge Dubrovnik’s Hotel Imperial remembers the days when Britain’s King Edward VIII danced here with Wallis Simpson in the hotel gardens. Reflagged as Hilton in 2005, the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik has preserved its 19th century architectural features and façade. Spring 2018 renovation, was used as an opportunity to rebrand hotel’s bar to The Imperial Bar & Lounge preserving hotels rich heritage and combining it with modern comforts and luxuries. The Imperial Bar & Lounge has become one of the city’s best loved meeting spots and is a place to enjoy expertly crafted contemporary, historic and signature cocktails, such as Milk Punch.QUlica Marijana Blažića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton. com. Open 08:00-24:00. A­P­B­W

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Sightseeing Essential Dubrovnik Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+38520) 32 22 00. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

Lokrum Island You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385) 099 254 67 77/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further informa‑ tion. A return ticket with entry to Nature Reserve costs 200kn per person, for kids under the age 18, 30kn.

is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

Stradun, Placa When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

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Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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In the point where east meets the west, you are more than welcome to taste the most delicious bosnian cuisine and feel the warmth fulfilling your very soul in a unique ambiance of both of our restaurants in the heart of ancient town of Dubrovnik.

Old town Ul. Nike Gučetića 2, Dubrovnik +385 20 323 221 Hotel Lero Iva Vojnovića 14, Dubrovnik +385 20 640 123 www.tajmahaldubrovnik.com tajmahaldbk @ gmail.com facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Sightseeing The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries. The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional 28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces.

From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.

Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www. citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00. August 1 September 14 Open 08:00 - 18:30. September 15 - 30 Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 250/100 kn.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www. malabraca.wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00-18:00. Ad‑ mission 40/20 kn.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.

The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Discover the best view of Dubrovnik

+385 20 325 393 www.dubrovnikcablecar.com

+385 20 312 664 www.nautikarestaurants.com

Sightseeing Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. Winter Open Hours Mon - Sun 09:00 - 16:00, Wed Cls. Dubrovnik museums are closed on Christmas, New Year and the Feast of St. Vlaho. 100 kn. J Katie Moon - Unsplash

Culture Experience Flora Gallery Located on the pedestrianized cafe strip that runs up behind Lapad beach, Galerija Flora is something of an overlooked treasure, cherished by the local cultural community but very much un-visited by foreign travellers who don’t realize it’s here. Housed in a historic villa that used to host many of Dubrovnik’s celebrity guests, it hosts compelling art exhibitions featuring top contemporary names.

Unfortunately it’s difficult to find out the gallery’s exhibition schedules or unpredictable opening times and your best bet is to consult their Facebook page to find out what’s on. QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 32, tel. (+385- ) 098 931 45 87, www.facebook.com/GalerijaFlora-1025816650817690.

Kulturni Centar Jadran Kulturni Centar Jadran is the umbrella organization that coordinates the various cultural and community groups currently housed in TUP, a former factory on the northwestern edge of town between the harbour and the bus station. They organize art exhibitions, workshops for children, film nights, picnics, and summer festivals. It’s a 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

radical step forward for community culture, and visitors are welcome to go along and join in; news of upcoming events can be found on their Facebook page. QSvetog Križa 3, www.facebook.com/kulturni.centar.Jadran/.

The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ronald Brown Memorial House (Galerija Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna kuća Ronald Brown) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:0020:00; closed Mon. The Lazareti (Lazareti) Hogging the seafront just east of the Old Town is a row of stone buildings known as the Lazareti, built in the seventeenth century to quarantine visitors to the city in an attempt to ensure that they did not bring in any infectious diseases. The quarantine system in the Dubrovnik Republic was one of the oldest in the world, dating back to an edict of 1377 that controlled the movements of visitors from plague-bearing areas. After long-term restoration the Lazareti were reopened in 2019 to serve as a cultural hub housing local artistic institutions and providing exhibition, performance and clubbing space.

Following a hiatus due to Covid-29 the Lazareti are once again open to the public with themed exhibitions, contemporary art shows curated by Galerija Otok, and performances by the celebrated Linđo folklore group, which take place twice a week in summer.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10, www.lazaretihub.com. J The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here.

It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00 - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad. hr. Open 09:00-21:00. 10/25. J War Photo Limited A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00-22:00. (last admission 9 pm). Admission 70/50 kn.

Landmarks Dubrovnik Aquarium (Akvarij Dubrovnik) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:0019:00; closed Mon. . Admission 60/20 kn.

Dubrovnik Cable Car The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 -23:00. Sep‑ tember Open 09:00 - 22:00. Round-trip ticket 140/70 kn.

Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

Onofrio’s Fountains – Great and Small (Velika i mala Onofrijeva fontana) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Sightseeing Andrew Buchanan - Unsplash

The City Harbour (Gradska luka) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard.

It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

Museums trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej Dubrovnik) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www.pmd.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Sun. Tickets are valid for 7 days from entry to the first museum.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1.

Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. Winter Open Hours Mon - Sun 09:00 - 16:00, Wed Cls. Dubrovnik mu‑ seums are closed on Christmas, New Year and the Feast of St. Vlaho.

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Sightseeing Homeland War Museum The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 10:00-22:00. (last admission 4 pm). April and October Open 10 am - 5 pm (last admission 4 pm). November through March Closed. Admission 40 - 70 kn. Children under 12 free.

Love Stories Museum Hidden away in the narrow streets beneath Lovrijenac fortress this is a private initiative that aims to provide a museum of emotions rather than grand events and artefacts.

Taking up several floors of a tall narrow house, it begins with well-known love stories connected with Dubrovnik, and pictures of well-known couples who have visited the city. Further up lie romantic stories connected with the films and TV series shot in Dubrovnik, and objects in the form of love tokens left by members of the public to illuminate their own intimate stories. There’s a small activity area for kids, and the chance for everyone to leave their message on a heart-shaped sticker on the top-floor wall.

QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 2, www.lovestoriesmuseum.com.

Open 10:00-21:00.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. Win‑ ter Open Hours Mon - Sun 09:00 - 16:00, Wed Cls. Du‑ brovnik museums are closed on Christmas, New Year and the Feast of St. Vlaho.

Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. Red History Museum The social history of Yugoslavia 1945-1991 is a source of increasing interest to visitors and this new venture, housed in a former factory near the port, presents the answers to many of their questions. Mixing dutiful historical explanations with a wealth of exhibits drawn from daily life, the facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

display begins by presenting a history of communism before going on to explain why Yugoslavian communism, led

by Josip Broz Tito, broke away from the Soviet model and developed a path of its own. The sections on popular culture are really fascinating with a colourful array of books, magazines, pop stars and pin-ups. The museum is fair in its treatment of the subject, touching on the dark side of the repressive state and dealing with the reasons for Yugoslavia’s demise.QH‑1, Sv.Križa 3, www.redhistorymuseum. com. Open 10:00-19:00. 26/65kn.

The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00-20:30; closed Mon. J The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 09:00-20:00. Admission 50kn.

Unified Museum ticket Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Museum of Modern Art Du‑ brovnik, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

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Top Sights Around Dubrovnik Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera) Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče.

Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes.

Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day.

Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.

QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+38520) 47 86 46, www.kuca-bukovac. hr. Open 09:00-19:00; Sun 09:0014:00. Holidays closed. Admission 30/15kn.

Metković Natural History Museum Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds and 310 species that have been recorded in the Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful and modern museum.

The permanent exhibition features 34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the richness of the flora and fauna of the Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals set in glass showcases, multimedia audiovisual displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event that touches your senses and especially for those who love culture, arts, history and archaeology all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385-20) 69 06 73, www.pmm. hr. Open 09:00-16:00; Sat 09:0014:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn.

Mills on the river Ljuta The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system, called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik. The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills were built on a canal network, while some of them were driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKonavle.

Mljet National Park & Odysseu’s Cave Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, ship-

wrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

QPristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www. np-mljet.hr. Open 08:00-20:00.

Admission 125/70kn.

Narona Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej Narona) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385-20) 68 71 49, www.am-narona.hr. Open 09:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

Sokol tower (Sokol Grad) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Ko‑ navle, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 09:00-18:00; Sun 09:0014:00. Tickets 70/30 kn.

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Ston Saltworks (Solana Ston) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines in Europe?

Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was created in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston. Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40 27, www. solanaston.hr. Open 08:00-20:000; Sun 09:00-19:00. Admission 20kn.

The Račić Mausoleum (Mauzolej obitelji Račić) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, tel. 020 478 646, www. migk.hr. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/15kn.

Mljet Tourist Board Archives

The Walls of Ston In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was accessible to the public, but after a long period of renovation a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Dubrovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac pen-

insula, and immediately set about securing it against potential Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5 fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-popping claim was probably intended as an attention-grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother investigating any further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+38520) 63 88 00/(+385-20) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00-19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

Dubrovnik Surroundings Korčula town, occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here.The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Korčula Tourist Board Archives

North of Dubrovnik The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.

The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

Neretva If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out 36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

Metković Tourist Board QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr.

Pelješac Peninsula The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island.

The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www. solanaston.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961).

It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable.

On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character.

Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will hardly be long enough.

Slano Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers.

The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state.

The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

Orebić Tourist Board QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

Ston Tourist Board QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr.

Dubrovačko primorje Tourist Board QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com.

Korčula Tourist Board Archives

One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Trsteno If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct.

East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy.

The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of

paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland.

Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

Arboretum Trsteno QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 19, www.info.hazu.hr.

South of Dubrovnik Cavtat The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good

One of the furthest of Croatia’s inhabited islands from the mainland and the most time-consuming to get to by ferry, Lastovo is perfect for those who prefer their holiday destination to come with an end-ofthe-world feel. Lastovo Town itself is a unique and characterful place, its houses arranged on sloping terraces above a verdant plain. Lastovo’s coast features quaint hamlets hiding in coves, where dainty rock and pebble beaches are washed by some of the cleanest seas in Europe.

The shallow pebbly-sandy bay at Skrivena Luka is perfect for paddling.

The whole island is covered in forest and scrub and is criss-crossed by trails, making it one of the best destinations in the Adriatic for hiking in blissfully unspoiled nature.

Lastovo, Photo by Andije Carli

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep.

Konavle Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evidence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhabited the region before them is still visible. In the village of Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to the pagan god Mithras.

In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, notably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.

Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing fortress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and Roman fortifications.

Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil. You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops.

Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Andre Blanco - Unsplash

Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent hotels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture. Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay away from the crowds.

Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alternative to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food just as people have made at home for generations, plucked fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying something of a revival.

With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recreational activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist train through the Konavle vineyards.

At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spectacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be 40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

sure also to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully displayed, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir.

To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your fingertips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and wonderful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

Konavle Tourist Board QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com.

Župa Dubrovačka Holiday brochures often refer to the “Dubrovnik Riviera” without clearly outlining where this Riviera is, and how far it might stretch. Most of what is termed the Dubrovnik Riviera for the ease of English-speakers unaccustomed to local terminology is in fact the Župa Dubrovačka, the broad bay that begins 5km southeast of town and stretches almost all the way to Cavtat. Župa Dubrovačka literally means “Dubrovnik Parish”, a reference to the string of villages along the coast here who were subject to Dubrovnik’s church authorities in the middle ages (and on reflection “Dubrovnik Parish” sounds a lot more charming than “Dubrovnik Riviera”, but never mind). As an area of lush greenery and seaside walks, it represents a refreshing alternative to the bustle of Dubrovnik itself. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings The thing that attracted travellers to this neck of the woods was the string of shingle beaches that run along Župa’s shore. It was earmarked as a place for tourist development in the years before World War I, when Czechs - eager to find a place that was near to Dubrovnik but which also had fresh air and bathing facilities - began exploring the possibilities of renting rooms with local people or opening their own B&Bs. The broad shallow bay of Srebreno at the northwestern end of Župa was the ideal spot for sea-bathing, and it was the Czechs who arranged the beach facilities and built the first small hotels.

In 1921 a Czech-owned consortium opened one of the Adriatic’s first-ever self-contained resort hotels at Kupari, immediately east of Srebreno, transforming Župa into a major holiday destination for those looking for sun, sea, sophistication, and a measure of rural peace to go with it. It’s a winning formula which the ever-popular Župa still provides.

Today’s visitor to the Župa usually arrives first at Srebreno, the part that’s nearest to Dubrovnik by road and also home to significant facilities - there’s a new shopping centre, a spanking new Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera hotel, and a string of popular cafes on the shoreline promenade.

A detour west and around the nearby headland takes you to Kupari, site of a sweeping shingle beach that’s

arguably the best in the area. However it is backed by a scene of complete desolation. The resort here, built by the Czechs and then taken over by the Yugoslav army as a hotel complex for military personnel, is a total ruin.

Beloved of photographers in search of poignant piles of rubble, the site has been earmarked for development, although nobody knows when it might start.

Following the shoreline path southeast from Srebrno helps you realize what a good place for a family holiday Župa can be. There are more stretches of beach, and a sloping wooded park which incorporates some outdoor fitness equipment and a children’s playground made from what look like random pieces of timber but which is actually landscaped to constitute an interesting adventure area.

There’s another line of cafes, most famous of which is Gusar (“Pirate”), home to a prolific local waterpolo club and filled with memories of their many triumphs.

It is here that Srebreno gradually fades into Mlini, a village named after the water mills that can still be seen, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach. There’s also a famously huge plane tree, planted in 1742, whose huge limblike branches look as if they are about to jump into life, rather like an ancient forest spirit from the pages of JRR Tolkein.

Photo by Andrija Carli

Koločep and Lopud are tiny – you can walk all around them quite comfortably.

Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Not far beyond is the Hotel Mlini, a long.standing tourist favourite rebuilt in the early 2000s and now looking like a row of futuristic pods. Mlini’s pride and joy is the Hotel Astarea, a jutting, geometric structure set among sloping green lawns, spearing cypresses, and a scattering of seaside bungalows. There’s another expansive shingle beach in front of the hotel, overlooked by the terrace of the Oleandar café and restaurant.

Walking from Mlini to the next village along, Soline, involves following a path wins its way upwards behind the Astarea hotel and continues along the hillside-hugging road high above the coast. However you might consider a detour along an overgrown coastal path to Beterina, an abandoned villa semi-hidden among tall grasses and shrubs. Built by Dubrovnik nobles to serve as a summerhouse and garden estate, it was earmarked for tourist development after World War II but was never used, and is now a total ruin. According to local lore, it is haunted by the ghosts of its former inhabitants. There are secluded and slightly unkempt nudist beaches on either side of the villa; mostly of rock and large stones.

Characterized by individual houses and apartments surrounded by gardens, Soline is quite rustic in comparison

with Mlini, with fields and olive groves running all the way down to the sea. Stairways tunnel their way beneath arched shrubs to Soline’s shoreline, which features a small pebble beach and also several rocky stretches of shore.

There’s little in the way of restaurants or cafés, but lots of private apartments for rent, making Soline is the perfect place for an intimate, self-contained, self-catering holiday.

There is no shoreline path at Soline and if you want to continue your walk southeastward, you need to follow the minor road that runs along the hillside just underneath the main coastal road.

The last settlement, Plat, is slightly isolated from the rest, lying just across the fields from Soline. A mixture of village and resort, it has a blissful sweep of shingle beach. With a modern hotel and apartment settlement, it has the feel of a secluded holiday haven, far from the summer frenzy of Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

More information can be found at the Župa Dubrovačka tourist office site: www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr.

Covered in dense forests of Black Oak and Aleppo Pine,Mljet is one of the greenest islands in the Adriatic. Situated at the western end of the island, Mljet’s famed National Park gets bags of day-trippers from Dubrovnik, while the rest of the island remains amazingly calm and uncrowded in comparison. Eastern Mljet, with its stone-built villages and sandy beaches, seems worlds away from the bustle of the modern Mediterranean. Quaint covehugging villages like Prožurska Luka and Okuklje offer the ideal opportunity for a blissfully relaxing holiday. Also attracting in-theknow lotus-eaters are Mljet’s cult beaches; cute pebbly Sutmiholjska on the south side of the island, and famously sandySaplunara at the island’s very eastern tip.

Mljet Tourist Board Archives

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Shopping Antiques Tezoro Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil. Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com. Open 09:0021:00. A

AR Bastion A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00-17:00. A

Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, prosciutto, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, Great Taste Awards, Superior Taste Award, etc. for best Croatian cheese - Paški sir - cheese from sheep’s milk from Pag island, as well as other well-known cheese.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www.gligora.com/ where-buy-cheese/croatia/gligora-store-dubrovnik.

Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 07:30-15:00; Sun 07:30-12:00.

A ­G­B

Artur A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings

by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired by episodes and stories from the history of the republic.

QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00-22:00. .

A Clara Stones Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 40, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30 - 13:00 ; 16:00 - 20:00. A­J Croata Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 10:00-21:00. A

Klarisa Gallery Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. A Life According to Kawa Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croatian producers and covers pretty much Parish traditional jewelry by Andrew Carli

Cvijet by Kike For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat 08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A Dubrovnik Treasures Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design.

Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Shopping Lea Rae - Shutterstock

everything you might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceramics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin. The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers from Croatia’s best small breweries.QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel. +385 (0)20 670 730, www.kawa.life/. Open 10:00-21:00.

Museum Shop One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags, scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/ sto-raditi/muzejska-prodavaonica. Open 09:00-18:00; closed Wed. A­W Namfleg Watches and Jewelry A boutique specializing in cloisonné pieces made up of delicate silver compartments filled with vividly-coloured enamel which is fired, polished and plated to a vivid lustre. Jewelry is available in a choice of designs and colour schemes, while the watches with enamelled faces are simply stunning.QB‑2, Zlatarska 17, Dubrovnik, tel. (+385-) 091 590 26 20, www.namfleg.com. Open 10:00-22:00. A­J Škar Winery This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour. The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. Open 18:00-00:00.

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal has branched out into the butchery business with this boutique food store located a few steps away from Lapad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place to come), although they also sell salami-style sausage for those who want something for picnics or on-the-move snacks. They stock the kind of locally-produced relishes and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.

QH‑2, Dalmatinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00-20:00; closed Sun.

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Arrival & Getting Around

Scheduled to open in mid-July 2022, the Pelješac Bridge will allow travellers to bypass those pesky border crossings between Split and Dubrovnik Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

Arriving by boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located.

Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V Line Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00. Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www. gv-line.hr. 35 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula and Hvar islands.

Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/ (+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours ac‑ cording to sailing schedule. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet May 27 - October 6. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your final destination.

Arriving by bus The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 10 hour journey! Ticket office: open 07:00 - 22:00, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices. Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 5kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 07:00 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.kolodvor.hr. Open 07:00-22:00.

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Arrival & Getting Around Tourist Information Centres The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

Gruž QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-14:00. June - September Open 08:00 - 20:00. Oc‑ tober Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 08:00 - 16:00.

Lapad QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-12:00;17:00-20:00. June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

July - September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 12:00; 17:00 - 20:00. October Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 9:00 - 14:00, closed Sun. Lopud QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Fri. Novem‑ ber - April Closed.

Pile QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00-20:00. June - September Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 20:00. Šipan QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. ; closed Tue. June & September Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Tue. July - Au‑ gust Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, closed Tue. Octo‑ ber - May closed.

Zaton QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Octo‑ ber - May Closed.

Arriving by car For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

Arriving by plane The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus infor46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

mation, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Shuttle bus which trundles into town (55 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250kn.

Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

Public transport The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!).

You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. 30kn daily ticket is available only at Libertas sales points and is valid 24 hours after activation.

Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr Libertas QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 0800 19 10/(+385-20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

Taxi There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

Plavi Taxi Dubrovnik Order via In Taxi App.Qtel. (+385-20) 33 22 22, www. facebook.com/PlaviTaxiDubrovnik/.

Travel agencies Gulliver travel Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www.croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+38520) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A Korkyra QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. September Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Vivado Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00-16:00. N dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Street register Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića

A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2 Brsalje A-2 Brsečinska I-2 Bunićeva poljana C-3 Buža D-1

Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava

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K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2 I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4

H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3 C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2

Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique

Levanat

48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Lazareti

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Vladimira Nazora Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Velika Petka Vetranićeva Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska Zagrebačka Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarićeva Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zvijezdićeva Željezničarska Žudioska Žuljanska Župska

J-2 G-2 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-2 I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 J/K-2 C-2 G-2 B-2 D-2 K-2/3 B-3/4 H-1 D-2 I-2 L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

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Dubravka

50 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Mea Culpa Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Mirage

Exit Rock Café

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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DUBROVNIK PASS Official City Pass

ISCOVER The City Walls, Rector’s Palace, museums and galleries. Full experience. Great savings.

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