Zadar In Your Pocket No12

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Contents

Zadar E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Summer 2015

Art comes to life Read the stories of Zadar’s historical characters

Can you dig it?

Ten must-see archaeological sites

N°12 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Summer 2015

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Foreword

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Zadar In Your Pocket

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

Voice and choice

Arrival & Getting Around

6

A guide to abide when help is needed

City Basics

12

Sightseeing Archeological Treasury

14

Surroundings

25

Shopping Delicatessen and souvenirs

Restaurants 27

Hotels

Food for thought

Places to stay for every pocket 32

Whet your taste buds

Coffee & Cakes

47 50

Nature’s gift to uplift

Piping hot tips

Local Flavour

40

Croatian archeological destinations

A zest for experiencing new things

Zadar Pulse

37

To see is to believe

Making your stay stress free

Culture & Events

Nightlife Let the music take you higher

36

Maps & Index City map / Street Register City centre map

58 61

62-63 64-65

Who stole the cookies from the cookie jar?

Molat, one of the islands of Zadar archipelago - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Foreword Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in the city of Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone which includes a comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments that ought to informatively dazzle sightseers; by knowing the history behind these grand walls, churches and chapels, you start to appreciate why and how these epic structures were built, not to mention our detailed special on ancient fortresses that were constructed in defending this marvel of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those seeking an adrenaline rush can fill their calendars with adventure sports that will raise a sweat throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, it is our glorified yet humble duty to give you a prelude into the gastronomic delights that await your tickling taste buds. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are ever so practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to dabble and dine. On behalf of the entire team, we wish you all a sensational summer.

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1334-9228 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zadar In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Assistant Eli Gajinov Design Petar Mudnić Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Zadar Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

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Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Zadar In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

arriving By boat Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it's well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable.

Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

Gaženička cesta 28/A, tel. (+385-23) 20 12 01, www. port-authority-zadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.QC-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, ag.zadar@ jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Miatours QB-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+38523) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.miatours.hr.

Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:30.

A

arriving By bus The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.

Zadar Coach Station Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

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Arriving & Getting Around arriving By car The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can't avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

arriving By plane Zadar's airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr.

European Coastal Airlines Seaports Now it's easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​ Seaside Airport Resnik QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10, resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

Seaside Airport Jelsa Q ​ Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Rab QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Pula QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

We connect Croatia European Coastal Airlines redefines your journey in the air by providing fast daily scheduled connections to the most magnificent islands in the Adriatic. You are invited to explore stunning coastlines and the beautifully preserved centuries old harbour towns Croatia has to offer from an entirely new perspective. Whether traveling for business or pleasure, ECA will provide an experience worth remembering.

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Arriving & Getting Around In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

arriving By train The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40.

Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains.Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.

Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) QO-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55/National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre QD-3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@ zadar.travel, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00. October Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Zadar Tourist Board QD-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+38523) 21 17 81, tzg-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.travel.

Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 8

Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar County Tourist Board QA-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, info@zadar.hr, www.zadar.hr.

Open 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

Liburnija QO-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver's sake.

Parking Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.

There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From October 1 to April 30, 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00 and not Sun, charges are as follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70 8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. zadar.inyourpocket.com

City Basics need a place to stay in zadar? zadar travel

last minute booking app

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zadar Summer tourist2015 board 9

Arriving & Getting Around Car rental Avia Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 898 91 12, 091 570 22 31, info@avia-rentacar.hr, www.avia-rentacar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Dollar & Thrifty Also at Zadar airport, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QN-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/ (+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. A Lulić Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 07:00 - 23:00.QF4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 23:00. A Modul Auto QR-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, modulauto@zd.t-com.hr. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Oryx Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QB2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, kristijan.zebic@oryx-rent.hr, www.oryxrent.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, 08:00 12:00. A Rent A - H Zadar Rent a scooter.QL-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+38523) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Travel agencies Adventure Park Zadar QKožinska cesta 108, tel. (+385-) 098 85 44 31, danijel@ adventure.hr, www.adventure-park.hr. Open 10:00 18:00. N Terra Informative staff offer a wide range of group and individual bookings for cruises, air flights, accommodation, rentals, currency exchange and more. Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the amount of available packages on offer. QG-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www. terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A 10 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Arriving & Getting Around

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City Basics Customs

National Holidays

Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return.

Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www.poreznauprava.hr.

January 1 January 6 April 5 April 6 May 1 June 4 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

Disabled Travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

visas

New Year's Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti-Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints' Day Christmas Saint Stephen's Day

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

EU! Here we come! Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean?

All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

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When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe's wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195. zadar.inyourpocket.com

City Basics

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Culture & Events future past, future present: zadar and modern architecture

by Jonathan Bousfield

the radical plan was never enacted. The urge to revitalize Zadar’s cultural inheritance was another important plank in the city’s post-war reconstruction. Writer and intellectual Miroslav Krleža was sent to Zadar in 1949 to oversee an exhibition entitled Gold and Silver of Zadar, based on the artistic treasures salvaged from the city’s churches. Not only did this exhibition lead to the establishment of the The Gold and Silver of Zadar museum that still exists in the city’s Benedictine Convent of St Mary’s, it also helped create a Croatia-wide wave of interest in Zadar, boosting the reconstructing city’s morale.

It was Krleža that presided over the competition for a new urban plan. The winning proposal, by Bruno Milić, left more room for Zadar’s historic buildings, but again portrayed Zadar as a utopian city of the future, filled with rectangular blocks of concrete. Milić’s Zadar plan definitely caught the spirit of the age and was turned into an exhibition that toured Europe, visiting Paris, Milan, Moscow and London before being shelved by the Croatian authorities as far too costly and ambitious.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Zadar has a subtly different look to those of its Dalmatian neighbours. Although it is more ancient than Split, and just as rich in medieval heritage as Šibenik, central Zadar represents a far more complex meeting of old and new, with Roman-era fragments and Romanesque churches rubbing shoulders with blocks of flats, sleek cafés, and ultra-contemporary architectural installations such as the Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun. The reasons for this architectural mix-up rests largely on the fact that Zadar was subjected to serious bombing raids by the allies in World War II, leaving the huge kind of holes in the urban fabric of the Old Town that had to be filled by post-war planners.

Of all Croatia’s Adriatic cities, Zadar was the one that suffered most in terms of destruction and depopulation during the war, and the generations that rebuilt the city in the Fifties and Sixties were genuine urban pioneers. Maybe it’s because of Zadar’s post-war experience of being a city on the architectural frontier that makes it such a forwardlooking and innovative place today.

The rebuilding of Zadar was a major talking point for Croatia’s post-war rulers. An initial plan put forward by architects Zenko Strižić and Božidar Rašica envisaged clearing much of the Old Town on the peninsula and building a modernist-inspired city in its place. However there was a competing desire among Croatian intellectuals to preserve as much of the city’s historical heritage as they could, and 14 Zadar In Your Pocket

However the architectural visions of the Fifties, however over-optimistic, played a major part in determining contemporary Zadar’s appearance. Leading modernist architects were the ones who got the job of designing most of the new buldings. It was Rašica and Milić, for example, who built the boxes-on-stilts buildings that line Zadar’s main street, the Kalelarga.

Of course a lot of people have felt over time that the buildings designed by Rašica and Milić were mistakes, concrete eyesores that took the heart and soul out of a historical city.

However they were a logical response to Zadar’s wartime destruction, and nowadays have become classics in their own right.

They also fit in rather well with Zadar’s current transformation into an innovative Adriatic city of the present day, a place in which a piece of centuries-old masonry can stand alongside a sound-and-light installation like Greeting to the Sun. The so-called Rašica building, the pale concrete slab that runs along one side of the Forum, looks just as serene and well-proportioned as its significantly older neighbours, especially now that the Forum area has been thoroughly renovated and re-landscaped by architect Ante Uglešić.

Zadar’s Boutique Hostel, a modern-interior headline-grabber designed by Studio Up and Damir Gamulin Gamba, is an adaptation of one of Bruno Milić’s modernist blocks on the Kalelarga. An important aspect of the project was that Milić’s original façade had to remain unchanged.

Incomplete and controversial though it is, the modernist projects of the Fifties and Sixties have had a profound effect on Zadar’s urban look. The upcoming projects of the future, such as the ambitious Gates of Zadar project entrusted to Sea-Organ author Nikola Bašić, can only be seen in the context of these earlier utopian predecessors. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Zadar Tourist Board - photo by Nenad Marčev

Exhibitions 04.05 Monday - 15.10 Thursday Playing With Glass The first solo exhibition by Croatia’s young glassblower Marko Štefanac is truly a real treat for all lovers of exceptional art work. By using the unique free blowing and modelling technique, Štefanac is known for creating replicas of ancient glass. The result is a collection of harmonious contemporary sculptures and utilitarian objects for all to see.QD-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www. mas-zadar.hr. J 03.06 WEDNESDAY - 16.07 THURSDAY BLUE NOSES - RUSSIAN ART The duo Aleksander Šaburov and Vjačeslav Mizin is a tandem known for their satirical and oft-times provocative works. Their exhibit ‘Sheltered Beyond Time’ is when they spent days in an underground bomb shelter to experience life after a disaster. With no clocks, alcohol or contact with the outside world, one solitary video camera exemplifies the gags that had gone on. Now it is there for all to see in addition to more of their work.Q D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. J 05.05 Tuesday - 15.10 Thursday Touch of Glass - An exhibition of contemporary Nordic glass See a scintillating exhibit that presents 80 artworks made from glass that were created in famous glassworks and by manufacturers including Holmegaard, Ittala, Magnor and Skrufs to name a few. The best of Denmark, Finland, Norfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

way and Sweden hover to our shores in the promotion of Nordic glass and well known Scandinavian design. Works

by Jorn Utzon and Swedish ceramic and glass designer Ingegerd Råman vindicate why glass is class.QD-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas.zadar.hr. J 15.06 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday Civic Life and the Industrialisation of Zadar Over the entire summer you can visit the Arsenal which has an entire display area devoted to a collection of photographs, postcards and objects that have recorded various moments in time and with which one can reconstruct the life and appearance of the city. It also brings to life former exhibitions and photos from over the years. Step back in time and appreciate a touch of history to a grand Adriatic City.QA-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385 -23) 25 38 21. Open 09:00 - 16:00. J 19.06 Friday - 03.07 Friday Friends of the Sea – Nineteen Hundred and Something Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert team will be held with 62 large format documentary photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.

QPozdrav suncu. J Summer 2015

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Culture & Events jazz scene with her lush warm sound and velvety voice.

QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, Muzej Antičkog stakla. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 -13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00.

Admission 60kn. J 06.08 Thursday Zdenka Kovačićek & Black Cofee The Sv. Stošija Square in front of the Cathedral in Zadar will provide the perfect backdrop for this evening event. Black Coffee is a famous jazz group with majestic musicians who team up with Croatian jazz singer Zdenka Kovačićek.

When they combine, you should be in the jive, as on that night, the sounds of blues and jazz will come alive!QB-3, Trg sv. Stošije. Concert starts at 21:00. J

Black Coffee - photo by Saša Drach

Jazz Concerts 07.07 Tuesday Black Coffee Latin Expression Lovers of Latino look out as this sort after jazz group take a twist for the summer season thanks to the famous percussionist Andy Petko making a special joint appearance.

Their repertoire includes Latin standardsof Brazilian music for the most, yet supplemented with a few Caribbean numbers too. The beautiful Zadar singer Martina Thomas will lead the evening. Also at 27.07. MondayQC-4, Narodni trg. Concert start at 21:00. J 08.07 Wednesday Jazz Orchestra HRT Are you in the mood for jazz? Well put on your dancing shoes as some of Croatian’s finest musical artists (Valerija Nikolovska) get together to perform a repertoire of Jazz classics.QA-3, Morske orgulje. Concert starts at 21:00.

J 28.07 Tuesday - 30.08 Sunday Jazz & Blues Festival The zesty sounds of these genres will for three days become a draw card for some of the world’s best jazz and blues musicians. The opening night belongs to the legendary British jazz pianist and Hammond organ player Brian Auger and his associates (aka Brian Auger’s Oblivion Express) who fuse jazz, rock, soul and funk. The second day is reserved for one of the most important American blues artists today in Neil Black & the Healers, their music although immensely entrenched in Texan tradition, still sounds innovative and powerful. The finale belongs to the multitalented flutist, saxophonist, vocalist and composer Camille Thurman who breathes a new lease of life to the 16 Zadar In Your Pocket

10.08 Monday Glenn Miller Orchestra Moonlight Serenade, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, In the Mood, Rhapsody in Blue, and the list goes on and on; just some of the almighty hits that this remarkable orchestra may perform this coming August. Fans of big band music can pretty much thank the heavens as one of the greatest genre acts grace the stage at the Forum. The orchestra plays an average of 300 shows per year worldwide, so here’s your chance.QB-3, Forum. Concert starts at 22:00. J 13.08 Thursday Arsen, Gabi i Matija Dedić A true family affair! This trio of musicians have given Croatia so much over the years and have a portfolio few can match. They join forces with son Matija who is a famous jazz pianist and go on a retrospective of their joint and individual successes in a night of evergreens.QA-3, Trg tri bunara 1, Arsenal, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www. arsenalzadar.com. Concert start at 21:00. Admission 60 - 80kn. J 13.08 Thursday - 14.08 Friday Novigrad Jazz Festival If you haven’t been to Novigrad yet, it’s the perfect time to uncover this great city while listening to some of the most famous Croatian jazz and blues musicians. The main aim is to introduce the broader public to the toe-tapping joys of the style, as well as providing depth and satisfaction to the most demanding purist, with a wealth of concerts for all tastes.QNovigrad.

13.08 Thursday Perpetuum Jazzile This Slovenian vocal orchestra combines powerful rhythms, rich harmonies and an unparalleled creativity to their show. With no instruments on stage, their voices combine to produce the music and tunes to original and hit songs. Their repertoire is a special mixture of pop, jazz, gospel, blues, Brazilian bossa nova, disco and funk. The grace of the human voice!QB-3, Forum. Concert start at 22:00. J zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 20.08 Thursday Daniele di Bonaventura & Black Coffee Craving some jovial jazz jives, then join the jam! Two entities became one years back when the Italian pianist and composer, Daniele Di Bonaventura linked up with this Croatian jazz group in a join project. The chemistry sparked and they unite again playing their favs with lots of spark, improvisation and Mediterranean synergy.QB-3, Trg sv.

Stošije. Concert starts at 21:00. J

Rock & Pop Concerts 17.07 Friday Manu Chao Famous for his lively energetic performances, Manu Chao is about to turn up the heat with his political banter and lyrics which deal with social reform, freedom and love.

Chao’s music is a unique combination of punk, French chanson, salsa, reggae, ska and Algerian rai. Esteemed around the world, anthems such as ‘Bong Bong’, ‘Cladestino’ and ‘Mi Vida’ ought to tear down the rafters.QE-3, Obala kralja Tomislava 1 (Jazine Parking). Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 195 kn. J 23.07 Thursday Silente Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the attention of both the Croatian media and public with their first hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national charts and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for many national music awards. Concert starts at 21:00.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, Arsenal, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21. Concert starts at 21:00. Admission 50 - 60kn.Tickets available at the Petrol gas station and Combo Music Shop (Vladka Mačeka 3). J

24.07 Friday S.A.R.S. Founded in 2006, this popular Belgrade group has already gained an army of followers with their mixture of different musical genres such as reggae, ska, hip hop, and traditional Serbian music. With gigs dubbed as wild and energetic, this will be their biggest concert in Zadar thus far and no doubt, a sweat raiser.QLedana Lounge Bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-23) 095 396 39 96, www.ledana.hr. J 28.07 Tuesday Sister Sledge Bring it on... 70s American funk and disco returns with sisters Debbie, Joni, Kathy and Kim still playing some of the greatest hits of their time. The older gen can surely recall ‘We are family, Lost in music, He’s the greatest dancer and Frankie’ just to name a few’. It’s diva time so bring your dancing shoes and we’ll have the disco ball turning.QTrg tri bunara1, Arsenal, www.arsenalzadar.com. Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 220 - 390 kn. J 07.08 Friday Josipa Lisac She has chart topping hits that cover five decades but her peak album, ‘Diary of one love’ from 1973, is stamped as legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and these days her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy. She still attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style, image and visual appearance.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, Arsenal, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www.arsenalzadar.com. Tickets cost 70kn if purchased in advance, otherwise 90kn on the day of the concert. J

The Museum of Ancient Glass - F. Lasismi (Finland)

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Culture & Events Dance events 25.08 Tuesday - 31.08 Monday 7th Monoplay - Festival Sola This is the 7th Monoplay festival featuring contemporary dances and solo performances by Croatian and foreign dancers and choreographers. Along with the dance performances, workshops and lectures will be offered. Let your body feel the music as you watch these modern and innovative dances. QD-3, Sokolska ulica, Zadar Puppet Theatre. J

Ethno 17.06 Wednesday - 19.06 Friday International Folklore Festival of Zadar County During the summer, there will be a numbers of events. If we can single out one event, then the International Folklore Festival of Zadar County 2015 is it, where you can see cultural and artistic associations performing original or choreographed musical and dance expressions that are characteristic for this area.QD-3, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, Tg Petra Zoranića, Narodni trg, www.nmz. hr. J 26.07 Sunday LADO - National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed. Event starts at 21:00.

QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb, www.lado.hr. J

Special events 13.06 Saturday - 14.08 Friday Terraneo Summer Break After last year's baptism of fire, the excitement, passion and vibe is beginning to spread around Dalmatia as festival fans are eager to find out about this year's Terraneo line-up. Why the hype you may ask? Last year's first ever edition simply rocked and with over 3000 devotees attending and DJs and bands pelting hits off stages, much is anticipated second time round. So the latest is that the event is expanding and will now be staged in two cities. Šibenik is home of course and events will be held primarily at the Fortress of Saint Michael. The new kid on the block is Zadar, with events expected on the Square of Five Wells.

All these ancient sites of majestic historical meaning will bring the best of today's music to the stage! And musi18 Zadar In Your Pocket

cally, there is something for everyone; acid jazz, electronic, funk, rock to hip hop, and DJs bring the house down pretty much after midnight. Just to whisper, the 2 Cellos are back ladies and gents; last year's half hour encore obviously wasn't enough.QD-3, Trg pet bunara. J 14.08 Friday 2Cellos They are Croatia’s sensation, a double bass duo who after uploading their version of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal on You Tube have had over eleven million clicks.

QD-3, Trg pet bunara. J 19.06 Friday - 19.09 Saturday Feštice Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week's big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen's reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety. Events start at 21:00.QŠiroka ulica, Kalelarga. J 25.06 Thursday - 27.06 Saturday Rise Up Festival Get up and rock with local bands and artists, such as Đubrivo,Eclipse Of Time, Scarlet notes, Das rage, Nulapark, La volpe, Shelter team, Kvaka 47, Cha jah ton. On Friday June 25th, skaters, rollerbladers and BMX riders will show off their skills in front the Menza https://www.facebook. com/MenzaZd. The event lasts two days and the entrance fee is 100kn for both days.QE-2, Old Zadar Puppet Theatre (Jazine).

Tickets available at the Igrow Shop (Stomorica 2).

30.06 Tuesday - 04.08 Tuesday 21st Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and there is something for everyone. From local to national theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell the tales of these plays. Some of the highlights include ‘The Devil and a Girl' by Rene Medvešek, ‘Hamlet's Truth'

by Ana Prolić, the dance show ‘Kolo', ‘Defenders' by Vanča Kljaković and the comedy ‘Beer' by Miro Gavran. Our very own Maksim Mrvica, an international pianist extraordinaire is set to open the festival with a concert where his classical crossover style is sure to amaze.QŠiroka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 31 45 86, www.hnkzadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8). J

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Culture & Events

30.06. MAKSIM MRVICA croatian national television 08.07. jazz orchestra

17.07. manu chao la ventura

28.-BRIAN 30.07. zadar jazz & blues festival AUGER'S OBLIVION • NEAL BLACK & THE HEALERS • CAMILLE THURMAN & MMT QUARTET 04.08. FORUM BAND

05.08. FRA ALLESANDRO 07./08.08. VIVA RIVA 10.08. GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA 13.08. PERPETUUM JAZZILE

TERRANEO SUMMER BREAK

16.06. Amy Lavere & Will Sexton 13.07. Sinkane 14.07. Nicola Conte & Ilija Rudman 14.08. 2Cellos facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ZADAR TOURIST BOARD

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Culture & Events The Development of Local Customs: Tovareća mužika draws its musical roots from a collection of random sounds made to create a noise, called batarela. This sound has been present in Dugi Otok for many generations.

Originally, Batarela calls were used to chase away the evil spirits during the long and cold nights, and also celebrated and mocked widows who were getting married again.

However, in 1959, at the wedding of an older woman, a structured noise was introduced in order to create a recognizable tune to the disordered sounds. Gradually, over the years, drums and horns were added and eventually an impromptu orchestra was formed.

Saljski užanci - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

saljski užanci 06.08 Thursday - 09.08 Sunday The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.' In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia.

On the first day, Thursday, boats, filled with members from the Tovareća mužika group, sail to Zadar where they perform in the center of the old city to open the festival.

On the second day, Friday, ‘Fisherman's Night' takes place.

Local cuisine from Sali is offered, such as fish stew, grilled tuna and sardines, along with traditional sweets. As well, there is an entertainment program featuring famous vocal groups, called Klape.

On the third day, Saturday, sporting events and competitions take place during the day and in the evening a ‘Sali Night' is held and the docks and boats are adorned with lights. An entertainment program takes place along the waterfront.

The fourth day, Sunday, is the closing day. The morning begins with a traditional reveille. In the afternoon, the famous 'donkey races' are held, a spectacular event, not to be missed. At the end of the race there is an awards ceremony and entertainment program on the waterfront.

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Outfits: The Tovarća mužika have two combinations of outfits, which they officially chose in 1963, as their uniforms. These outfits worn at festivals and during performances were selected to represent the clothes that fishermen wore from the early 20th century. The first outfit, consists of a fisherman's hat, called a rašketa, a white shirt without a collar, a black vest, black trousers with a belt, white socks and black shoes. Optionally, a gold earring can be worn on the right ear or a pocket watch can be used to accessorize. The conductor of the orchestra, wears a top hat instead of rašketa, a black bow tie or a scarf around his neck, a white vest and if he wishes, white shoes and may carry a cane. The second outfit, the groups ‘navy' uniform, was chosen because of the connection of the island and it's most famous instrument, the horn, with the sea. It also consists of a rašketa, along with a blue-and-white striped sailor's shirt, blue fishing pants tied with white rope or nets, and traditional footwear, called škarpini. Again, optionally, a gold earring can be worn in the right ear and it is not mandatory to wear the škarpini. The conductor wears a top hat instead of rašketa, and a long-sleeved shirt, instead of a short-sleeved one.

New Members: The training of future Tovareća mužika members begins during elementary school. They are called, Pulići, and they perform at smaller events and children's folklore festivals. Since the ensemble was created, hundreds of boys and young men have joined. It is common to hear, throughout the year, boys learning to play the horns and drums. When a senior members of Tovareće mužike goes into retirement, a Pulići, which is in high school, can become a ‘real' Tovareća mužika group member.

Dugi Otok, the seventh largest island in Croatia, is located off of the Dalmatian coast, west of Zadar. It is full of sparkling beaches and picturesque villages, set against a background of magnificent vineyards, orchards and cliffs filled with lush vegetation. The island can be reached daily by ferry from Zadar, as well as neighbouring islands.

Don't miss out on experiencing this spectacular unique event and seeing the Tovareća mužika group in action!QTourist Board Sali, Dugi otok, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 30.06 Tuesday Maksim Mrvica Maksim Mrvica is a Croatian pianist who plays classical crossover music. This classical genius started playing the piano at the age of nine and has since then performed in international beauty pageants and at the MTV awards.

His album, The Piano Player, was so popular in Asia that it held the number 1 slot on the HMV international pop chart in Hong Kong for twelve consecutive weeks! Concert opens Zadar Summer Theatre Festival.QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Concert start at 21:30. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00-21:00. Admission 170 kn. J 08.07 Wednesday - 09.08 Sunday The 55th Musical Evenings in St Donatus If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It's considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Concerts starts at 21:00.QB-3, St Donatus's Church, St. Anastasia's Cathedral, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 30 04 30, www.donat-festival.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). J

Amy LaVere - Terraneo Summer Festival

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09.07 Thursday Aglaja - Ballet of Flags Founded in the 1960s, this famous dance company from the city of Bruges in Belgium brings a very expressive, creative and enthusiastic dance performance to the stage.

Fifty dancers use flair, enthusiasm, rhythm, pace and expressive power in combination with flags to portray their unique art form to classical music in the background. This is an art form to sooth the soul!QForum, www.aglaja.be.

Performance start at 21:00. Addmission free. J 23.07 Thursday - 24.07 Friday KalelargArt A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QB/C-3, Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni trg, Forum. Festival starts at 21:00. J 25.07 Saturday Millenium Jump When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It's the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word 'go' jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.

QB/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. J

Photo / Autor

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Culture & Events Workshops 01.01 Thursday - 31.12 Thursday Glass Workshops at the Museum of Antique Glass Looking for a one of a kind experience, then this blowing glass workshop ought to put some shine into your stay.

Through a glass window, see how the masters for hand blowing of glass tend to their craft in creating replicas from the Antique period. It’s a great way to pick up a readymade souvenir! Choose from any of three workshops to see: glassblowing, glassblowing - lampworking, and beadmaking - lampworking. All are included in the admission price which also includes a visit to current exhibitions.QD2, Poljana zemaljskog odbora 1, Museum of Ancient Glass, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30. Open 09:00 - 14:00. J 15.09 Tuesday Making Četverokuke Want something hands on? For eight Tuesdays in a row starting September 15, at16.30 at the City Sentinel, visitors are welcome to attend this workshop on the Četverokuke; typical embroidery found on folk costumes from the Dinara area of Dalmatia. It is the most recognisable symbol and guests can become acquaint to the techniques of making it and the items of clothing it can be used on. Cultural yet fun!QD-3, Narodni trg (Gradska straža). J

Zadar Tourist Baord Archives

Get a glimpse of traditional dances and songs that derive from Northern Dalmatia on June 18 & 19, at the Petar Zoranić Square, runs from 19:00 to 22:00. Also for an unforgettable experience visit folklore festival in Pridraga on July 18th.

30.07 Thursday - 01.08 Saturday Full Moon Festival On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don't have the chance to travel to Zadar's outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event. Start at 18:00.QB/C-4, Riva. J

17.09 Thursday Hand Weaving of Tkanica Weave your way to the City Sentinel every Thursdays starting September 17 at16.30 for a workshop on handweaving Tkanica, a woven belt that is an essential part of women’s and men’s traditional costume of northern Dalmatia. Tkanica will be produced using tablet weaving and a weaving frame.It continues for seven Thursdays in a row in case your nearby.QD-3, Narodni trg (Gradska straža), www.nmz.hr. J Pottery from the Island of Iž If in town, the National Square will be the site to create and model some of the typical clay ceramics made on the island. Throughout history, potters from Veli Iž were exporting their products over the entire Adriatic coast and this pottery is a protected cultural monument. Workshops run from 09:00 to 11:00.QD-3, Narodni trg. J

22.08 Saturday - 29.08 Saturday Avvantura Filmforum Festival Zadar A platform for European co-productions and professional filmmakers by promoting Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences, film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole lot more.QB-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 91 260 74 66, pr@ filmforumzadar.com, www.filmforumzadar.com. J 22 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events

Hideout Festival

Sport events

SUMMER BEATS

16.07 Thursday Basket Tour On 16 July you have the chance to experience a basketball tournament in the spiritual home of basketball in Croatia (we're talking Zadar, of course). Show starts at 17:00.QB-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.basket-tour.com. J

So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight.

We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north to south and will make sure you know the place, the date, and the headliners.

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds among the community in the era before mass media. That time has passed but the need to be a part of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on dancing and living!

20.07 Monday - 15.08 Saturday VAK’AN’ZA - Sport & Music Festival (Water polo Amateur Cup of ‘Anti-water polo players and Non-swimmers’) A fun for all water polo tournament for men, women and a veteran's category with the aim of gathering old district teams from the Zadar region. The event will be held across various beaches with an entertainment programme provided throughout various cafes, clubs and bars…QB-4, Riva, Varoš, Maraschino bar, Mango bar and City beaches. J 22.08 Saturday Jadran Rowing Duel Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts at 16:00 and its 500 meters in distance.QE-2, Jazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

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ZAGREB Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with the event of the season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.

ISTRIA & KVARNER We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madSummer 2015

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Culture & Events ness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.

NORTHERN DALMATIA So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.

From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and Felix Krocher. Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th. From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia. For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at

its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th . For these few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.

CENTRAL DALMATIA Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson, and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th.

SOUTHERN DALMATIA And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće.

For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Viva Riva Festival - Marco Bailey

24 Zadar In Your Pocket

Dance, love, enjoy, and live! zadar.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Zadar Pulse

The Sea Organ - photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

We asked the locals - who live or work in Zadar - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Jadranka Belevski Documentarian at the Museum of Ancient Glass, B.A. in Art History, B.A. in Archaeology

Jadranka: If you need an interesting souvenir, you should visit the Museum Shop at the Museum of Ancient Glass and buy a unique set of ancient glass replicas in combination with Wines of Punta Skala from Royal vineyards (Kraljevski vinogradi).

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Jadranka: Fresh fish, fruits and vegetables from the local market. You should try the best ice coffee in Zadar at Donat Sladoledi!

Z​IYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Jadranka: Garden, Ledana

Sandra Bajlo

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?

Jadranka: At the beautiful sandy beach in Nin, Laguna.

The best beach in the Zadar area - Bibano beach bar in Bibinje.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Sandra: My favorite place to drink coffee is Lloyd.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Jadranka: Long slow walks, lots of coffee breaks, popping into a few museums - the Museum of Ancient Glass in Zadar, for instance.

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend ad a souvenir from Zadar? facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Sales Counselors at HOK Insurance

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?

Sandra: My favorite place to relax is at the caffe bar Brazil on the Riva.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Sandra: The best way to discover the city is by walking through the Old Town, seeing the beautiful monuments.

Activities such as swimming, walking..

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Zadar Pulse Restaurants Žaklina Radoš German Teacher ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night? Žaklina: Illy Bar by the University. For me they have the best coffee and really great service.

The Museum of Ancient Glass

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar?

Sandra: Supernova. You can buy the liqueur Maraschino, a unique drink from Zadar.

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Sandra: The restaurants Fosa and Niko are the finest places to have a wonderful dinner and excellent sea food.

Tamara Šoletić Actress at the Zadar Puppet Theater ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Tamara: I drink coffee at the cafes in the city center, in Varoši, mainly at the cafe Borgo. It's a daily ritual that combines socializing with friends and enjoying a good cup of coffee, which is very important to us locals in Zadar.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar? Žaklina: Any cafe in the streets of Zadar on Saturday morning. I love the crowds.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend? Žaklina: Just walk around with no particular plan or knowledge of what lies behind the corner. Let the city surprise you.

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar? Žaklina: Small souvenir shops in the alleys of Zadar offer great crafts and handmade products. The ladies by the Cathedral do some lovely crochet work.

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors? Žaklina: For meat lovers - lamb on spit. For fish lovers grilled sardines in olive oil, garlic and parsley.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?

Tamara: A place to relax is always connected with the sea, whether that is sitting on the Sea Organ, in Foši, or a stroll along the waterfront.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Tamara: The best way to discover the city for me means mingling with the local people and I would recommend that to our guests. We Dalmatians are distinctive people.

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar?

Tamara: I'm not the type of woman that likes to go shopping, but I'm still sad that the city center no longer has anymore stores, for everything you need to go to a shopping center outside of the city. As for souvenirs, at Gradska loža, the Festival of Souvenirs will be held soon and I hope that our guests will find some artifacts there to take home from Zadar and not just some plastic kitsch available (unfortunately!!!) at every turn.

Nin - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Tamara: Our local specialties include everything that makes up Mediterranean cuisine; fish, olive oil, fresh vegetables .... that's why we are so healthy and good-looking hahahaha.

26 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Croatian Bistro Gourmet Kalelarga Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores- the meat dishes are to-diefor! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region.

For dessert, don't miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won't be disappointed.

QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@ arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGBXW Bruschetta The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade' and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, info@bruschetta.hr, www. bruschetta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn).

PJAGBXW Casa Ricov The first steakhouse restaurant in Zadar, it's located in park Vruljica and offers a new menu daily. Tasty succulent meat steaks are freshly prepared, along with delicious tuna, salmon, sea bream and blacksmith fish steaks. This place will leave your mouth watering for more.QK-4, Oko Vrulja 4a, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 29/(+385-) 091 525 52 35. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 100kn). PAGBXW Dva ribara A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day's sightseeing. It's a hard life!!QC-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@ restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PABX Groppo Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill, seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC-3, Široka ulica 22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81, convallis.doo@gmail.com, www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50150kn). PJA6BW Kaštel Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.

If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, info@hotelbastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 190kn). PALGBXW Kornat Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01, info@restorankornat.com, www.restoran-kornat.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 190kn). PJA6Gi BXW Malo misto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, info@malomisto.com, www.malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 170kn). PAGBXW Pet Bunara This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is Summer 2015

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Restaurants SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You're in for a real treat! QD-3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara. hr, www.petbunara.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).

PAGBC Roko This restaurant specializes in roasted lamb on a spit, delicious traditional dishes from the Ravni Kotari region, such as turkey risotto, as well as fresh bread ispod peke, baked under the bell. It doesn't get any better than this!QI-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn). PALBW

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Konoba Rafaelo On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It's got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH-3, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). PALGBXW Skoblar Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PJA6Gi BXW Stomorica Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it's a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar favourite for generations.QC-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+38523) 31 59 46. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). PNGi BXW

Pet Bunara Restaurant Archives

28 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants Zadar - Jadera A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day's catch. You won't find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it's small and intimate and if you're after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 105kn). PJAGBXW

Italian Pašta & Svašta This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.

QPoljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-) 099 731 02 32, vici.doo@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 120kn).

PJA6GBXW Trattoria Canzona A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation.

The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it's a good bet.QC-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81.

Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn).

PJA6GBXW

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it's much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Sabunjar Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.

Take the main road to Split and you'll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.QR-3, Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr.

Open 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 90kn). PALGBXW Tamaris A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamariszadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). PALGBXW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Ethnic Shanghai House The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset.QH-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33 23 10/(+385-) 099 308 30 88, shanghai.restoran@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGBXW

Seafood Foša One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+38523) 31 44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 235kn). PJAGBXW

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Restaurants breakfast Croccante When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a topnotch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests.QC-3, Široka ulica 14. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).

Forum Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC-3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (10 - 40kn). PN Plankit Some of us spent our school days on this beautiful terrace. The rush of the city, coffee breaks, cakes and a wonderful choice of both salty and sweet pancakes.

The perfect choice when wishing to take a break from sightseeing!QC-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www. restorani-zadar.hr. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PAGi BXW

Niko Popularly called 'kod Erika' by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotelniko.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PALi GW Taverna Diklo A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it's best to book in advance for prime positioning.

QF-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35, taverna1979@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 350kn). PALGB

Pizza Mamma mia Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia's pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty.

And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 200kn). NGBXW Šime A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil' baby out of the sun.QG-2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P6LNGBXW Tri bunara This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (35 70kn). PJ6NGBXW

twitter.com/ inyourpocket 30 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants

Budget

Vinjerac

Gricko There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven. They're usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. QL-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87. 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.

(20 - 32kn). PNGBW

Konoba Pece We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03, anita.greguric@zd.htnet. hr, www.konoba-pece.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 120kn). PA6LGBXW

Hajduk Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn't grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don't mention that here if you like having legs.QC-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNBW Obelix Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it's a good place to pick up a bite if you're drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town.QG-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik.

Open 08:00 - 01:30. (8 - 60kn). GBXW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

pag Boškinac This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern) has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+38553) 66 35 00, info@boskinac.com, www.boskinac.com.

Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 190kn). PA6LGi BXCW

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Local Flavour

Bistro Gourment Kalelarga Archives

The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb's open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was. In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home.

However, a trip to Zadar's market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you'll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar's gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region's most interesting specialities.

Let's get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you'd like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar's restaurant's you can't miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey 32 Zadar In Your Pocket

brudet sauce. Then there's risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious.

Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta.

What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol - bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water's edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It's the perfect remedy when you've overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.

Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar's interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they're succulent and delicious.

Then there's lamb and kid goat. It's odd that goat meat zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour is little eaten in much of Europe since it's almost indistinguishable from lamb except it's less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat. Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis.

Beef and pork don't figure much on the traditional menu.

Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia's cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It's a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it's low in fat. You'll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn't keep for long.

You probably won't find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine Maraschino liqueur Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by evfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ery family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.

Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.

If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

Samphire At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

Wine The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years.

The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand.

Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including CrSummer 2015

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Local Flavour become a wine connoisser Who better but a qualified sommelier Jelena to give you tip top tips when it comes to wine.

G&J TVOJA KRV I MOJA, SVAGUŠA, NADIN CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT Wine that is certainly recommended, intense in flavour bearing an aroma of plum and red berries. It is full-bodied, maintaining beautiful mature tannins thus filling the palette with fruit and fullness. This well-balanced, complex and powerful wine seeks accompanying foods such as venison, lamb grilled, steak...

KORLAT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, BENKOVAC - STANKOVCI Less than 20 kilometres from Zadar is the Korlat Vineyards that produces excellent wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is a very powerful complex wine, with a deep and intense ruby ​​red colour and purple reflection. The scent on the nose is rich in berries; dominated by blueberries, currants and black plum. The taste is quite lush with a long finish and ripe tannins. The impact of the barrel is very nicely integrated into the wine. This is a wine that nicely complements venison, beef, and aged cheese dishes.

ljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.

Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines.

34 Zadar In Your Pocket

VINA PUNTA SKALA, KRALJEVSKI VINOGRADI, ZADAR Pošip is a wine that densely moves in the glass and expresses its fullness through the originality of this great grape variety. The scent of herbs along with fruits such as apricots and figs can be felt. When poured, it seems almost oily and leaves a creamy trail on the pallet. Pošip is excellent with chicken, duck, fish and other lighter meals in general.

The Foodie's Guide 04.07 SATURDAY Exhibition of Pag Sheep and Cheeses At this exhibition evaluate the quality of the cheeses from the island Pag and meet the sheep responsible for these renowned cheeses.

11.07 SATURDAY A FEAST OF MUSSELS IN NOVIGRAD Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle.

Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These days, aany connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and full of meat.

19.07 SUNDAY Šokolijada For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th century tradition from Nin which is all about the process zadar.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake but it's all in good fun. It's a true 'dig in and savour' session.

Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!QVišeslaov trg, Nin. 06.08 THURSDAY The Festival of Salt The Nin Salt Works ( (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today's world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural', whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact.

This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more..

QNin. 10.09 TUESDAY - 15.09 TUESDAY 8th Fig Festival To this very day, Zadar and the whole of Dalmatia is abundant in fig trees, nurtured as a part of life. And in its honour, the Fig Festival, which is held in September at the ‘Pet bunara restaurant’. Chef Mario Arbanas prepares many specialties made of figs and visitors can sample a variety of dishes prepared in combination with this dazzling fruit. .

Throughout the festival, one can learn more about the fig, from its processing to its gastro segment, as well as from its agrarian to its artistic side. By the end of this, you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same light again!

Visit Fig Festival at restaurant Pet bunara, D-3, Stratico street 1, tel. 22 40 10Q. J

Tips for Hungry Travellers Baškotin A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they've been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we'll toast to that!

Benkovačka vara Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.

Cheese to please!

Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their very doorstep.

Have you ever eaten dormice?

Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.

If in the village Vid… A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the mints!

Povitica Cheesecake A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found at the restaurant called ‘Nada' (Vrbnik).

Rab or Lošinj If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you not!

Show us some mussels Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!

Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!

The island of Ist, ist good!

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majolino!

Try Pipi When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot summer day!

Vis or Komiža bread?

A dilemma that's been debated for centuries is best to be solved on the island of Vis. What’s so salty…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

What to have for breakfast…

Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.

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Coffee & Cakes Iva Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGBW

Coffee Branimir A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk.QD-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-23) 30 56 84. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW Callegro The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.

We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!QB-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro. com. Open 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGi BXW Art Kalelarga What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay than by gobbling down some amazing cake combinations. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing asparagus cake.QC-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@arthotel-kalelarga. com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

PAGBXW Danica A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PAGB Donat Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@ donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PNGBW Eva Il Gelato Originale The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops.

Beat the heat wave and choose your flave!QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 19 09. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW 36 Zadar In Your Pocket

Forum A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus', the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QB-3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

PAGBXW Guam Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Open 08:00 - 01:00.

PNBXW Illy Concept Bar New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.QD-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBXW Lovre The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6NGBXW Riva A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum.

QB-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 62. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife Clubs Maraschino Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it's a café, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party.QE-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 06:00. PA6GBW Podroom Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!

Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join in the action!QM-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 099 420 82 02, podroomzd@gmail.com. Open 24:00 - 06:00.

PJAEGW

Cocktail bars Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk.

Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches.

While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb. Open 07:00 - 01:30. N Mango Day & Night Club This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar's centre and opposite the Borik complex. It's a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 04:00.

P6LNBXW

Hangin' out Arsenal Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar's 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it's best to keep track via the web. PTJAEBKW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Backstage Bar Opened in April 2015, BackStage is another new venue for entertainment in the city of Zadar and in particularly for all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs, so stay tuned for more news!QM-3, Andrije Hebranga 9, creativejdoo@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

PT6ENGBXW Borgo A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry.QC-3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6Ni BXW Cafe Gallery Gina Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC-3, Varoška 2, dario.longin@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00. PJA6Gi BXW Dolce Vita Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana30455@gmail.com. Open 09:00 14:00, 18:00 - 01:30. PJ6NBXW Famous Bar The latest new kid on the block in Zadar is the ‘Famous' beach bar and grill which is getting the thumbs up from locals. Open from morning till nigh, ‘Famous' is a beach bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different meals.QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62 23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, famous@adria-bars.hr, www. famous.adria-bars.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. A6Li GBXW Hitch bar Wanna dance till you drop, spruce on in to this popular night club with somewhat of a modern and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer's entertainment guide with theme nights, international DJs, and concerts

by Croatian and international artists.QKolovare bb, robert@hitch-bar.com, www.hitch-bar.com. Open 08:00 - 06:00. PA6BW Kult Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC-3, Stomorica 6a.

Open 07:30 - 02:00. PJ6BXW Summer 2015

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Nightlife La Bodega Zadar Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QKalelarga Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 095 456 45 56, labodega2014@ gmail.com, labodega.hr.

Toni On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael's, opposite.QC3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 01:30. P6NBXW

LLoyd One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.

After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia's cathedral.QB-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+38523) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW

Vinyl bar With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till the late hours.QObala Kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 099 670 04 90. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P6BXW

Lotus A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres.QC-4, Stomorica 7. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. Closed Sun. PJ6NBXW Q Bar A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city's pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB-2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00.

PNGBXW Rio Bar Walking distance from the town's famous Sea Organ, this is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. The newly refurbished ‘Rio Bar' is truly unique as its main focus is on the 70s era; the sounds of funk, soul and disco echo inside its walls both on weekdays and weekends.

The bar's slogan; ‘Where the funky generation meets' probably describes it well since it has been a popular meeting place since the late 1980s. So come and feel funky any time!QL-6, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 73 60, simeraspovic@yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00.

PTJNGBW Sea organ (Morske orgulje) Read all about Zadar's sea organ - the only one in the world - in “What to see”, then head, equipped with your insider knowledge, to impress the chaps or chapesses that gather there by evening. It's a nice place to lounge whilst listening to the sounds produced by the waves, and it's a special experience at sunset.QA-4, Riva.

facebook.com/ zadarinyourpocket instagram.com/ croatiaiyp 38 Zadar In Your Pocket

Yachting Bar A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish.

It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts. and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 07:00 - 05:00. PNi BXW Zodiak A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum'n'bass.QD-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. Open 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:30. PNBXW

Lounge bars Ledana Lounge bar Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is 'icy' in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts.QD/E-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96/(+385-) 098 63 07 60, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana. hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. PA6BXW The Garden Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it's a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@ thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.

Open 10:30 - 01:30. JA6UBXW zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

Maraschino - photo by Iva Perinčić

Out of town Aquarius If you're looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, homemade ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius.hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. Open 00:00 - 24:00. A6LBKCW Beach Bar Kalypso A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton), games and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and internet access. The late bar is pumping 'til who knows - and who cares - when! Open 'til lateQZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, info@kalypso-zrce.com.

Open 08:00 - 06:00. A6LBCW Lavender Bed Bar Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music. As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed.

QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m (Hotel Adriatic), sales@ ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PA6LBXW Papaya Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles.

QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya.com.hr.

Open 11:00 - 20:00, 22:00 - 06:00. AUBXCW Saturnus A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Open , Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.

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Sightseeing Chapter 13

Rector’s Palace - National Museum Zadar Archives

Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.

QB-3.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history.

Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them.

The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian 40 Zadar In Your Pocket

rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.

Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto.

Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD-2.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.QD-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Admission 20kn. J City Sentinel (Gradska straža) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D- 2.

St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv.

Stošije) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.

Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.

QB-3, Trg svete Stošije. J St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Jun/Sep open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J The Riva “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.

When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

sula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.

As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Churches Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA-3, Braće Bilišić 1.

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s.

The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv.

Krševana) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) This former church building has had an interesting past.

Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently Summer 2015

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Sightseeing been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD-3, Špire Brusine 13.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.

Franje Asiškog) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QA/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and simple, but architecturally rich.QC-3, Široka ulica 2.

St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless!QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1.

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.QD-3, Špire Brusine 4.

St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

Religious collection Church Collections from the Church of St Elijah the Prophet A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an etching technique.QB-3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 10 14. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Admission 10kn.

Silver & Gold of the City of Zadar - Zadar Tourist Boards Archives

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Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millenzadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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Sightseeing

St Francis Cloister - photo by Stjepan Felber

nium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv. Šime) In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an 44 Zadar In Your Pocket

inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open May - October 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Palaces Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem.QD-3, Medulićeva 2. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C -3. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Palace Grisogono - Vovo (Palača Grisogono - Vovo) Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.QD-3.

Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

QD-3, Trg 5 bunara.

Greeting to the Sun Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA-3..

only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.

QD-3.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city.QA-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosi-

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD-3, Trg pet bunara.

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR-3.

The Petar Zoranić Square Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Archeological Museum Archives

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Sightseeing acs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire.

The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful.

Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages.

From the second half of June, the Archeological Museum in Zadar will display ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia).QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, mbrkic@amzd.hr, www.amzd. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Admission 30 kn. J National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History, Ethnography, or the Art Gallery with its impressive collections

and exhibitions. The City Lodge hosts a number of current exhibitions also, while the 13th century Rector’s palace is home to the ‘Cages’ exhibit as well as a maritime collection. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20kn. J The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.

Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Parks

Photo / Autor National Museum Archives

Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E-3.

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE-3.

The Museum of Ancient Glass

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Archeological Treasury Croatian archeological destinations that should not be missed

by Jonathan Bousfield Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations lying around in its major cities. Pula’s amphitheatre, Split’s Roman palace, Trogir’s cathedral and Dubrovnik’s walls are just four of the most obvious examples. What is perhaps less well known is the sheer multitude of archeological sites in the country, and the significant number of past cultures that have been discovered thanks to digs on Croatian soil. Sites such as Vela Spila in Korčula or Vučedol near Vukovar have greatly added to our knowledge of European prehistory; Vinkovci is considered to be one of the oldest continually-settled towns on the continent. What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit.

No list is ever complete – very often one historical site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide a spur to further exploration.

Zagreb and inland Croatia Krapina The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art museum that deploys film shows, multimedia displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves – but of human evolution in general.

Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA. Vukovar One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old, three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adrifacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

atic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring these European ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.

Andautonia So near to Zagreb and yet so frequently overlooked, the Andautonija Archeological Park (www.andautonia.com) displays the excavated remains of a Roman-era town in the middle of the village of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast of the capital. Although lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved temples, everything else you would expect from a Roman town is here, including remnants of shopping streets, bathhouse complexes and scraps of mosaic. The Archeological Museum in Zagreb organizes a string of summer events at the park which are aimed at families and children, with displays of ancient crafts, a change to sample Roman-era recipes, and a lot of dressing up in togas.

Vinkovci The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headlinegrabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes a recreation of one of the dwellings.

Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings has been reconstructed.

Zadar region Asseria Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times, becoming an important administrative and trading centre under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations.

It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired by Roman-era residential quarters.

A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the pinecone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation, is the place to learn more about Roman-era northern Dalmatia Summer 2015

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Archeological Treasury .

Šibenik region Burnum North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnumamphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/ en.html), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to have accommodated two entire legions.

What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.

Split region Salona Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.

It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of early-Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga. Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/ split-arheoloski/hr/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium contains one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.

Stari Grad Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 48 Zadar In Your Pocket

in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region Narona Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-mnarona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of how to display a historically significant archeological site while at the same time making it an entertaining place to bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper levels of the museum where display cases contain coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape. Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.

Vela Spila, Vela Luka Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’, the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr).

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Archeological Treasury

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Zadar Surroundings North of Zadar Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

Nin The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica', (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the har-

Solana Nin - Nin Tourist Board Archives

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bour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps.

A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid' which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water. We recommend that you visit: Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35kn.

Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica 2a, Žerava tel. (+38523) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71.

Nin Tourist Board QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Zaton This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton's landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church (11th century), which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.

The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone's taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities.

Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

Zaton Holiday Resort QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.

Zaton Tourist Board QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 21:00.

Novigrad Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.

Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

fes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.

Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.

During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice's defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.

The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.

Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, Summer 2015

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Zadar Surroundings brown bears, wolves and lynx.

The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet.hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park's entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

Paklenica National Park QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@paklenica. hr, www.paklenica.hr. Open 06:30 - 20:30. Ticket 30 150kn.

South of Zadar South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake in its present lively and romantic Riviera.

Biograd The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.

Croatia's crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd's history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty.

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd's pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town's colourful and turbulent past. It's at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com.

Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 52 Zadar In Your Pocket

- 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia's best beaches, it's isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there's an aquagun and a host of other amenities.

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You'll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it's a mecca for fishing and birdwatching.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd's shores. There's an old lighthouse there and it's great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.

Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Biograd n/m Tourist Board Information on activites, trips and maps of the area.QTrg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Vransko jezero Nature Park QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, info@pp-vransko-jezero.hr, www.vransko-jezero. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 20:00 which includes weekends.

Entrance 10 - 20kn.

Islands Don't make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar's surrounding areas. Many of them are neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael's Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings

MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP

SKRADINSKI BUK

MILJACKA SLAP

VISOVAC

MANASTIR KRKA

BURNUM

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Zadar Surroundings benkovac There are two castles worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored.

It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took over. It became a rural county district under the French in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin.

Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway.

That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there. You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest.

A gravel track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork.

Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River.

An extension was constructed in the 15th century.

Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years.

Benkovac Tourist Board www.benkovac-bastina.net - a website with pictures of Benkovac’s cultural and historical heritage.QAnte Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+385-23) 68 18 34, tzg-benkovac@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-benkovac.hr.

Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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island's name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there's a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you'll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day's harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you'll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, superclean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Kukljica Tourist Board QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, info@ kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Preko Tourist Board QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@ preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 21:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island's main settlement. Like Ugljan, it's fairly lowlying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you'll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there's the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Pašman Tourist Board QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www.pasman.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.

Tkon Tourist Board QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, tz-opcinetkon@zd.t-com.hr, www.tkon.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Iž This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž's Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town's festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball.

Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you're really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Zadar Tourist Board office QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.

Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It's great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Dugi otok Although it's easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia's “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Zadar Surroundings from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast.

If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun.

There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart's content - it's the best way to explore any island.

Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it's within biking distance from Sali.

Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Dugi otok Tourist Board QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Telašćica Nature Park QSali IV 2, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 1400kn depending on the size of the boat.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you're energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball.

Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island's sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit's renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib's cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff.

Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

Silba Tourist Board QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, info@tzsilba.hr, www. tzsilba.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Zlatna luka - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

56 Zadar In Your Pocket

Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It's not what you'd normally expect from the Mediterranean.

But that's not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It's oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It's completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.

These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals' meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it's one of Croatia's most famous export products.

A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don't be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island's other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day's catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.

Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia's most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive.

But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia's most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town's most striking church, St Mary's, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia's party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb's most famous names, have opened to create Croatia's answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It's wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds.

Pag Tourist Information Centre QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tic@tzgpag. hr, www.tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Shopping Antique Market A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. C-2, Jurja Barakovića Street, daily 09:00 - 14:00 and 15:00 22:00.

Art Galleries Ancient Glass Museum’s shop Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away', and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Anima Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, zoran. debelic1@zd.t-com.hr, www.anima.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bambola Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes.QC-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A Buža As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna' at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole'). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD-3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N Laudato Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD-3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, laudato@laudato.hr, www.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Pia Hands down the best gallery in the city! Located on Madijevaca street, a narrow step street branching off the middle of Široka street, that at first glance is even unnoticable. At Pia Gallery, you can find some of the most beautiful pieces of jewelry, paintings and pottery by local artists, plus a large selection of original handmade knickknacks.

QC-3, Madijevaca 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 06, galerija. pia1@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JN

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The Zadar National Museum Shop Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum's artefacts.QC-3, Narodni trg, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www. nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JN

Delicatessen shop Bibich A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 23:00. A Delikatese Lukin Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products. Smok'n meat is their treat!QC-2, Pod bedemom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. JA Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia's finest and most recognised cheeses. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel.

70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.

QN-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, info@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Maraska Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Olvin A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.QN-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.

Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Vitlov čokolade This chic pastry shop offers a large selection of luxury pralines in a variety of different flavours, along with an abundance of chocolate squares made with dry fruits, pepper, cinnamon and ginger. While top Luxardo liqueurs available contain a plethora of aromas and unique flavours.These tasty sweets offer something for everyone's taste!QC-3, Ulica plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 31 48, dvitlov@gmail.com, www.cokoladavitlov.com.

Open 09:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. JA zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Shopping foreign newspapers For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Široka ulica (Kalelarga street C- 3).

Nature Corner Bio svijet Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar. It's located opposite the bus station, ground floor of the shopping centre. Also at Knezova Šubić Bribirskih 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 34, Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.QO-5, Ante Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-23) 40 00 18, prodaja@biosvijet.hr, www.bio-svijet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Jerkin Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures and natural cosmetics.QK-2, Prilaz Fabijanića 11, tel. (+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89, jerkinbilje@ yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N Kadulja A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you'll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr. Hauschka.QB-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23 58 63, kadulja. zadar@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A L'Occitane Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel. 34 40 18.QD-3, Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04 04, narodnizd@ loccitane.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA

Shopping centres City Galleria QN-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, info@ citygalleria.hr, www.citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. P Supernova centar Zadar QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. supernova.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. W

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Hotels 4 stars

3 stars

Art Hotel Kalelarga QC-3, Ulica Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. 10 rooms (9 singles €137 - 179, 9 doubles €171 - 219, 1 Junior Suite €225 - 275).

PZAR6UGBKW hhhh

Donat QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, donat@falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. 240 rooms (36 singles €53 82, 126 doubles €47 - 74, 34 triples €47 - 74, 44 Family Rooms €53 - 80). PTHALEGBKXC hhh

Bastion QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@hotel-bastion. hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. 28 rooms (23 singles €179 205, 23 doubles €219 - 250, 3 suites €337 - 370, 1 President apartment €420 - 480, 1 Junior Suite €298 - 328).

PZJHARFLGBKDXW hhhh Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www.borik.falkensteiner.com. 298 rooms (94 doubles €81 - 136, 83 Mini Family €84 - 152, 58 Family Royal €94 - 157, 59 Family Suites €109 - 162, 4 Luxury Suites €).

PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhh Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www. adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €172 - 302). PHAFLEGBKDXW hhhh Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www. adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €172 - 302). PiHAFLEGBKDXCi wW hhhh Kolovare +385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. 203 rooms (27 singles 750 825kn, 164 doubles 520 - 660kn, 12 apartments 90750 - 107250kn).

PJHARUGBKCW hhhh Pinija QPetrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-23) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.

300 rooms (270 doubles €51 - 88, 30 Family Rooms: €62 - 90). PTJHARUFBKDCwW hhhh Zaton Holiday Resort QDražnikova ulica 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, sales.dept@zaton.hr, www. zaton.hr. 597 rooms (253 Apartment 4* €58 - 271, 344 Apartment 3* €44 - 189). PTA6FLEBi KCW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Adriatic QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29 07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www. ilirijabiograd.com. 100 rooms (95 doubles €43 - 125, 5 apartments €80 - 135). PTJHAFLEBi KDCW hhh Mediteran QG-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteran-zd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. 30 rooms (30 singles 470 620kn, 30 doubles 590 - 850kn). PALKXW hhh Villa Hrešć QI-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villahresc.hr. 9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGCW hhh

Hostels Boutique Hostel Forum QB-3, Široka ulica 20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax (+385-23) 25 07 95, booking@hostelforumzadar.com, hostelforumzadar.com. 111 dorm beds, €24 - 84 per person. PHAGXW Drunken Monkey Hostel QP-6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@ gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. 30 dorm beds, 165 - 250kn per person. PNGBCW Zadar Youth Hostel QG-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www. zadarhostel.hfhs.hr. 253 dorm beds, 15 - 37€ per person. 294 dorm beds, 14.70 - 46.70€ per person.

THR6UGBKW

Camping Autokamp Planik QRažanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/(+385-) 098 27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.planik.hr. Person per day 26 40kn, Children 17 - 24kn, Pitch 40 - 90kn, Car/Tent 20 - 30kn, Accomodation tax 6kn. W Summer 2015

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Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Dinarska J-4 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4 Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3

62 Zadar In Your Pocket

Forum Foša Fra Donata Fabijanića Fra Šimuna Klimantovića Franje iz Milana Frederica Grisogona Grge Oštrića Grgura Mrganića Grigora Viteza Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića Ilije Smiljanića Istarska Obala Ivana Brkanovića Ivana Bršića Ivana Danila Ivana Mažuranića Ivana Meštrovića Jakše Čedomila-Čuke Jerolima Vidulića Josipa Jurja Strossmayera Jurja Barakovića Jurja Bijankinija

K-6/C-3 L-6/D,E-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2 J-4 K-6/B-3 L-3 L-6/C-2 L-5,6/D-3 J-5,6/A-3 L-4,5/C-1 K-5 K-6/A-3 K-4,5/B,C-1 K-3,4 K-5/B-3 K-6/B-3 L-4 L-5/D-2,3 K-6/B-3

Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1 Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1

Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4 Sirac L-6/D-4

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Slavoljuba Penkale Stara Voštarnica Stomorica Stube Slavoljuba Penkale Sv. Nediljice Šime Ljubavca Šime Ljubića Šime Vitasovića Šimuna Benje Kožičića Široka ulica Špire Brusine Tanzlingera Zanottija Trg opatice Čike Trg pet bunara Trg Petra Zoranića Trg sv. Frane Trg sv. Krševana

K-4 L-5/C-1 L-6/C-3,4 K-4 L-6/C-4 L-6/D-4 L-6/D-4 L-5/D-2,3 K-5/B-2,3 K,L-6/B,C-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/B-3 B-3 L-6/D-3 L-6/D-3 K-6/A-3 K-5/B,C-2

Trg sv. Stošije Trg tri bunara Ulica Borelli Varoška Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Veslačka Vjekoslava Maštrovića Vladimira Papafave Voštarnica Vrata sv. Kršovana Vrata sv. Roka Zadarskog mira Zlatarska Zore dalmatinske Zrinsko-Frankopanska

K-6/B-3 K-5/A-3 L-6/C-3 L-6/C,D-3 J,K-3,4 L-4,5/D-1 L-4,5/D-1 J-4 K-6/A,B-3 L-4 K-5 K-5 K-6 L-5/C-2 L-6/C-3 M-5

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I. Meš

Brodarska

žura nića

a trović

Maraska Park

I. Ma

Marina Yacht Club Service

St. Voštarnica

OBALA KNEZA TRPIMIRA

ića Brkanovića

UVALA VRULJE

Frane Alfirev

OBALA KN

EZA BR

LUKA FERRY

JADROLINIJA

BALA

KA O URNS ski

Mateja Poljana Natka Nodila

Bianchija

Brne Krnarutića Crkva sv. Krševana Crkva sv. Petra St Chrysogonus’ Starog i Sv. Andrije Church St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s Knezova Šubića Bribirskih

Jurja Dalmatinca

Arheološki muzej Archeological Museum

Crkva sv. Donata St Donatus’ Church

Široka ul.–Kalelarga

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Crkva sv. Marije Madijevac a St Mary’s Church

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Palača suda Municipal Court

Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica

R I V A

BOLNICA HOSPITAL

SHOPPING

WI-FI

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE TOURIST INFORMATION

BUS ZA ZRAČNU LUKU BUS TO AIRPORT TRŽNICA, RIBARNICA MARKET, FISH MARKET

MARINA

POLICIJA POLICE

JEDNOSMJERNA ULICA ONE-WAY STREET

RESTORAN RESTAURANT

MUZEJ MUSEUM

HOTEL/HOSTEL

TAXI

NOĆNI KLUB NIGHT CLUB

AUTOBUSNA POSTAJA BUS STATION

PARKIRALIŠTE PARKING

JAVNI WC PUBLIC LAVATORY

LJEKARNA PHARMACY

BROD, KRUZER SHIP, CRUISER

TRAJEKT CAR FERRY

BENZINSKA POSTAJA GAS STATION

POSTAJA ZA TURISTIČKI AUTOBUS TOURIST BUS STATION

64 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Blaža Jurjeva

Zore Dalmatinske

V. Papafave

Šimuna K. Ben

G. Mrganića

Poljana Pape Ivana Pavla II.

Morske orgulje Sea organ

Hrvoja

almatina

ć duli J. Vi

Stup srama Pillar of shame

Pozdrav Suncu Greeting to the Sun

Matafare

Boutique Hostel Forum

Trg Sv. Stošije

Zanottija fra D. Fabijanića

Nikole

Crkva sv. Ilije St Elias’s Church

Tanzlingera

Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery

a

Katedrala sv. Stošije St Anastasia’s Cathedral

Pod Bedemom

Br. Vranjanin

Braće Bilši ć

Božidara P etrano vića

ića

and

L. M

Braće Bersa

ISTARSKA OBALA

Ivana Danila

Crkva Gospe J. Bjankin ija od Zdravlja Church of Our Lady of Health

A. Paravije

Luke Jelića

Jakše Ćuke

Jurja Divinić

zad

Sabora

Carinarnica Customs house

bun

Trg 3

ara

Prok. Grgura

I. Brčića

oše

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Prav

Bošnjaka

Šimuna Kožičića Benje

Arsenal

Mate Karamana

Hotel Bastion

Lučka Kapetanija Harbourmasters' office

Muzej grada The City Museum

Poljana Pape Aleksandra III.

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una h pob

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Morska vrata (Vrata sv. Krševana) Sea Gate (St Chrysogonus’ Gate)

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Muzej antičkog stakla The Museum of Ancient Glass

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Utvrda Forte The Forte Fortress

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Knezova Posedarskih

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R. Levaković

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Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira Elektra

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Kopnena vrata Land Gate

Ruđera Boškov ića

Varoška

Blaža Jurjeva

VAROŠ

AVL

OBA LA K

Trg 5 bunara

Crkva sv. Dominika St Dominic’s Church

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Košarkaška dvorana

Providurova palača Deputy’s Palace

Špire Brusine

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Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevke

Trg Petra Zoranića

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Crkva sv. Mihovila St Michael’s Church

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Poljana Šime Budinića

Kneževa palača Rector’s Palace

Plemića Borelli

Đački dom Student dormitory

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Perivoj Jarula

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Jurja Barakovića

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Palača Grisogono-Vovo Palace Grisogono-Vovo

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Summer 2015

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Chapter 25

66 Zadar In Your Pocket

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