Zadar In Your Pocket No10

Hotels Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

ZADAR Summer 2013

Historiya

A 2000 year old city brings new experiences

Food Festivals

The authenitc best and the rest

Camping

Our neck of the woods N°10 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.com

CONTENTS

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents History

5

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Arriving in Zadar & Basics

6

Wherefore beer?

Culture & Events

8

Everything that’s on in Zadar

Sali Festival

15

The traditional customs, folklore costumes...

Magnificent Meštrović

16

One of the worlds greatest sculptors

Camping in Croatia

18

Experience a night under the twinkling stars

Where to stay

20

A fine selection of places to spend the night

Local Flavour

24

Fresh and always a buzz!

Dining & Nightlife

30

From pork knuckle to tofu burgers

Ivan Meštrović - One of Croatia‘s biggest artists of all time.

For an insight on Meštrović turn to page 16

What to see

39

Check out the highlights

Cafés Grab a book and watch the world go by

36

Nightlife Party hard in the city that never sleeps

37

Sport

46

Climbing, diving and sailing

Getting around

47

Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping

49

We’ll help you get rid of that extra cash

Directory

52

Grown up important stuff

Zadar County

53

Out and about around the city Sheep milk from the isalnd of Pag is rich in milk fat, so in the process of making cheese, the milk serum that is left is heated to not boil. Then whilst cooking, the high in protein second cheese in curd forms, the local term for it is skuta.

Curd can be eaten in a variety of ways, and is excellent as a cake with Zadar maraška (cherries)

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Maps & Index City map/Street register City centre map County map Country map

62 64 66 67 Summer 2013

4

HISTORY

FOREWORD Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! A comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments will dazzle sightseers, not to mention our special on the ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer!

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In the 15th century, internal fights within the Croatian-Hungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia, and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued - this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.

In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague, however, ravaged the city.

In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling the end of war. A century later, Napoleon‘s armies defeated Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in 1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the Austrians took the city back again in 1813.

The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved, and the first modern city water system was completed in

1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of national identity, began to press for linguistic and political autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled, giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade.

Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In 1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first town in what is now Croatia.

In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the 1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast, including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become part of Tito‘s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.

However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica (or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town, date back to this time. Industry developed and the population expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the 1960s, the importance of tourism grew.

Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.

Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding is now taking place in every sense.

Photo by Boris Kačan

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Zadar In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1334-9228 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover: Boris Kačan

Zadar In Your Pocket

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy Researcher Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Maja Knezić, Krešimir Šporčić, Gordan Karabogdan.

Photos Zadar In Your Pocket team, Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi Otok, Stjepan Felber, Stipe Surać, Boris Kačan, Ivana Stanešić Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.ww

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Summer 2013

5

6

ARRIVING IN ZADAR By boat Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there. Jadrolinija‘s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day.

By bus Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060 305 305. The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.

By car The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can‘t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

By plane Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. (+38523) 20 58 00. www.zadar-airport.hr. Zadar‘s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city.

Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home:

Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

By train Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn‘t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:15 - 14:40. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. Getting to town: see “By bus”.

Basics Customs Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you‘re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you‘ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

Tourist information

When things go wrong

L

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time.

In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe‘s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

Tourist Information Centre D-3, Mihe

Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@ tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00. October Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr.

QOpen 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Zadar In Your Pocket

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8

CULTURE & EVENTS

CULTURE & EVENTS 06.05 Monday - 15.07 Monday

The Story of Stained Glass - Dominique Jurić D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.

Astonishingly, at the time when stained glass windows were first used in Cathedrals, they were not viewed as works of art, but rather only as architectural elements or theological concepts. Dominique Jurić, a Croatian artist, from Zagreb, has taken the technique of stained glass and created magnificent pieces of art. Let some light shine into your life and stop by to see her spectacular and unique designs at the Museum of Ancient Glass. Q J

28.06 Friday - 31.12 Tuesday

Iphigenia - the history of one restoration C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr/en/. Head to the museum‘s ground floor and get an insight into every stage of the restoration process of one painting, ‘Iphigenia‘.

Head to the second floor to eyewitness the original baroque canvas of large dimension. Exhibition dates are subject to change. Q J

05.07 Friday - 12.07 Friday

Friends of the Sea-great Croatian photographs from the 50‘s Stoše od Foše iliti Kate Kapuralica 30. 07 & 31.07 at 21:30 The Courtyard of Providur’s palace (Photo by Karavida K&K)

Ethno 05.07 Friday

Moreška

B-3, City Forum (Forum). One of the most prominent features of the Korčula island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness on 5th July in Zadar, heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

18.07 Thursday

LADO - National Folk Dance Ensemble of Croatia D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića, www.lado.hr.. LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed

Exhibitions 07.12 Tuesday - 31.12 Tuesday

Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic C-2, National Museum Zadar (Natural history department), Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr/en/. Who says you need to get wet in order to see what is under the sea? This exhibit systematically presents its plants and animals from microscopic flora and fauna through to the Adriatic‘s largest sharks and sea turtles. The exhibition will showcase 512 items with 52 photographs and 460 animal or plant samples. Educational and tops for all ages! Q J

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Zadar In Your Pocket

25.01 2013 Friday - 25.01 2015 Sunday

Folklore Costume - Symbol - Status - folklore costumes of northern Dalmatia as an indicator of the relationship between men and women

A/B/C-4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. This exhibition will display art photography from the 50‘s, with the theme being, ‘Life on the Croatian Adriatic,‘ and will show local and foreign visitors works by Ante and Zvonimir Brkan, Joso Špralja, Tošo Dabac, Nikola Vučemilović, Milan Pavić, Đuro

Griesbach, Ivo Eterović, Andro Damjanić, Fernando Soprano, Igor Emili, Viktor Hreljanović, Alojz Orel and Virgilio Giuricin.

17.07 Wednesday 17.09 Tuesday

Enchanting Lights Željka i Boris Rogić D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, D. Jurić, Sea Cross (Morski križ) tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr. The first solo exhibition for stained glass in 1989, was the stimulus for the establishment of Atelier Rogić. The studio has worked to design secular and religious stained glass lamps and mirrors, as well as door and window decorations. Take a look at this exhibition featuring a variety of stained glass pieces, each created using unique designs and colours, which will put you under a mystical spell. Q J

10.09 Tuesday - 15.10 Tuesday

The City’s Jinxed Bridge

D-3, Rector’s Palace, Poljana Šime Budinića bb, www. nmz.hr. Zadar first gained a bridge from the old town peninsula to the mainland in 1928. This first bridge was destroyed during heavy bombing in 1944. In 1949 a pontoon bridge was made from empty oil barrels - it was quite a feat to cross the water in a strong wind! The bridge you see today was finally opened in 1962. It’s 152 metres long and six metres wide, and as always, for pedestrians only.

Party 24/7

C-3, City Sentinel, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr/en/. Take a look at the beautiful handmade folklore costumes and accessories stored at the Ethnological Department of the National Museum in Zadar and you will have the opportunity to glimpse into the relationships between men and women from the mid-eighteenth to the mid-twentieth century. The display will feature family photos from the daily life of locals, as well as postcards, which are written sources that show the mentality and feelings of people in northern Dalmatia at that time. Q J

06.05 Monday - 15.07 Monday

In Vitrum - Shaped in Fire, Mihael Štebih D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr.

Mihael Štebih, a writer and artist, expresses his thoughts and emotions, not only through his haiku poetry, but by creating glass sculptures, as well. Each of his sculptures tell a story of one of his haikus and capture the artist‘s simplicity and honesty in a piece of art. Make sure to come visit the cool, smooth glass universe of Štebih and enjoy, not only in the beauty, but also in the poetic thoughts and feelings, of each glass sculpture. Q J

Jazz

Hideout Festival

17.07 Wednesday

Simon Marlow & Jazz Orchestra HRT City Forum Simon Marlow, a singer from the UK, has performed alongside numerous orchestras, such as the Passedena Roof Orchestra, the Cologne Big Band and Berlin´s Capital Dance Orchestra. Join him this summer as he performs alongside Croatian Jazz Orchestra HRT.

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Zrće beach, Novalja, Island Pag. Zrće is Croatia‘s counterpart to Ibiza and is one of the best open air clubs in Europe. It is set on the island of Pag, Novalja, on the beautiful beach Zrće. During the day, enjoy the most popular dance beach parties which continue into the night under the starry sky. Special festival themes add to the flavour as some of the hottest names in world electronic music pump their endless tunes. Brace yourselves as the outstanding line-up says it all…

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03.07 - 05.07 Hideout festival 10.07 - 13.07 Fresh Island Festival 15.07 - 19.07 Papaya & Day Night Festival 24.07 - 26.07 Beach Odyssey Festival @ Papaya 30.07 - 01.08 DJ MAG Sunrise festival 03.08 - 10.08 Powow Party Trip 10.08 - 17.08 Barrakud Festival QTickets available at www.eventim.hr

Summer 2013

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CULTURE & EVENTS The Museum of Ancient Glass The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls overlooking Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the finest collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological si tes across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin (Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Arg yruntum ) and Podgrađe (Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels used

by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes,

skin creams and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners – much of the collection comes from excavations at Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. The replica Roman glassware museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.

As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop where you can learn more about the almost forgotten craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for just that.

Concerts

18.07 Thursday

14.06 Friday

B-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21.

Don‘t miss out on seeing these three great women on stage this July. Tereza Kesovija, is an internationally acclaimed Croatian singer, known for her operatic style, who also had a successful singing career in France. Gabi Novak, a Croatian pop and jazz singer became popular in the 1960‘s, while Radojka Šverko, is a fantastic soprano-alto singer. These legendary ladies of the Croatian music scene will keep you mesmerized all night.

Radojka Šverko, Gabi Novak, Tereza Kesovija

Klapa Kampanel D-3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke. The mystic sounds of Dalmatia are hidden in a capella music where klape (a group of men) harmonise their voices from tenor to baritone. Klapa Kampanel is one of the leading ensembles with chart topping hits. Q Concert starts at 23:00. Tickets available at the Ledana bar and Aquarius Travel Agency .

05.07 Friday

19.07 Friday

D-3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke. Croatia’s captain of musicianship, a singer who oozes soft rock, melody, and soul with his typical Dalmatian roots.

Ledana will be sold out in a jiffy upon news of this as Gibonni promotes his first full length album in English entitled, ‘The 20th Century Man’. Q Concert starts at 22:30. Tickets available at the Ledana bar and Aquarius Travel Agency .

D-3, Ledana Lounge bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke. Another Dalmatian sensation to hit the Ledana Lounge and Club! Hari is a singer and songwriter who has enjoyed immense success in national music circles. His music has a slight pop rock sound with lyrics often rooted with the sea and love. He is promoting his latest LP ‘Di god da pođen’, meaning ‘Wherever I go’. Q Concert starts at 23:00. Tickets available at the Ledana bar and Aquarius Travel Agency .

Hari Rončević

Gibonni

26.07 Friday

Denis i Denis B-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+ 385-23) 25 38 21.

An electro-pop group from Rijeka, they were one of the most popular bands in Former Yugoslavia during the 1980‘s, and created three albums, ‘Čuvaj se!‘ (1984), ‘Ja sam lažljiva‘ (1985) and ‘Budi tu‘ (1988), during this time. Experience a blast from the past as you relive the songs from this legendary band.

29.07 Monday

Santana

M-5, Jazine. Don‘t miss out on this unforgettable performance by Santana, a Latin music influenced rock band, which was founded in San Francisco, during the late 1960‘s, by the lead guitarist Carlos Santana. Enjoy listening to the reunion of his classic lineup of musicians who played with him in Woodstock in 1969. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets 275 - 575 available at the www.eventim.hr.

Carlos Santana

Zadar In Your Pocket

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12

CULTURE & EVENTS Teatro Verdi

Pinocchio, Photo by Iva Perincic

02.08 Friday

Josipa Lisac B-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21.

She has chart topping hits that cover five decades but her peak album, ‘Diary of one love‘ from 1973, is stamped as legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and these days her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy. She still attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style, image and visual appearance. Q Concert starts at 22:00.

09.08 Friday

Nina Badrić

B-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21.

Come watch Nina Badrić live on stage this summer. She‘s a Croatian pop star who has been singing since the early 90‘s. Enjoy listening to her new album, ‘NeBo,‘ and popular songs that helped set-off her career at Croatian competitions for the Eurovision Song Contest, like ‘Odlaziš zauvijek‘ and ‘Čarobno jutro.‘

Galleries Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25

38 21, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar. com. Q Arsenal is open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.

City Library L-4, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+38523) 30 11 03. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admision 20kn.

City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.

Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

Hdlu Zadar C-3, Kraljskog dalmatina 2, tel. (+38523) 30 07 27. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 10:00 - 22:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 10:00 16:00. Admission 35kn.

The Captain’s Tower Gallery (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara bb. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,

18:00 - 20:00. Sun Closed.

Cinema CineStar N-5, Murvička 1 (City Gallery), tel. (+385-) 060

32 32 33/(+385-23) 62 88 54, www.blitz-cinestar. hr/cinestar-zadar.

Zadar In Your Pocket

About 120 years ago, the magazine ‘Scintille‘ wrote, ‘In Zadar, people do not go to the theatre out of conviction or habit, but out of passion‘.

We step back in time up until the end of the 19th century where Zadar was one of Croatia‘s leading cities in terms of culture and music. However, when bombarded in WWII, 80 % of the city was destroyed with the ‘Teatro Verdi‘ also suffering damage. Although not severely damaged in the bombing by the Allies, it was soon completely destroyed after the Partisan Army arrived. Today, there is not a single sign or memorial plaque marking the existence of the two big theatre buildings which characterized the musical and theatre life of the city. The capital of Dalmatia got its first true theatre in 1783 and it was named Teatro Nobile - The Noble Theatre, and contemporary Italian operas were staged there from its very beginnings.

In 1865, the second big theatre in Zadar was built - The New Theatre (later named Teatro Verdi) which was composed of three halls - a theatre, concert and dance hall and was considered to be the most beautiful in Dalmatia. During that period, all until the mid 19th century, its repertoire was based on Italian drama and music. It was luxuriously equipped and the finest craftsmen from Venice and Vienna worked on its interior design; it could seat an audience of 1500.

It was opened on October 7, 1865 with a performance of Verdi‘s opera ‘Un ballo di maschera‘, on the eve of the Feast Day of Saint Simon when the theatre season would traditionally start in Zadar. The new theatre was a reflection of wealth and political power. A lot of documents of the design and building of this theatre were saved. It was the biggest and most beautiful theatre on the east side of the Adriatic and was especially festive and decorated during the visit of Emperor Franz Joseph on May 10, 1875. Various events, operas, ballets, comedies, dramas, masked dances, th e first silent and sound films were held there and it was the centre of life in Zadar. Some of the great actors who performed there were: Alda Borelli, Ferruccio Benini, Eleonora Duse, Alessandro Drago, Ferruccio Garavaglia, Alfredo de Sanctis, Irma Gramatica, Giovanni Grasso,Angela Musso, Ermete Novelli, Giacinta Pezzana, Itala Vitaliani, Ermete Zacconi, and Emilio Zago.

30.06 Sunday - 30.08 Friday

Hommage: Giuseppe Verdi

D-3, www.nmz.hr. As Verdi‘s work was synonymous with theatre in the city of Zadar, the Teatro dell‘Opera in Rome also pays homage to the great composer and has carefully chosen from their historical archives a collection of 30 sketches, 60 drawings and 20 costumes created for the purpose of performing Verdi‘s masterpieces during last century all of which can be seen at the Duke‘s Palace.

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SALI FESTIVAL

CULTURE & EVENTS Saljske Užance The Saljske Užance 08.08 - 11.08 (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.‘ In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia.

On the first day, Thursday, boats, filled with members from the Tovareća mužika group, sail to Zadar where they perform in the center of the old city to open the festival.

On the second day, Friday, ‘Fisherman‘s Night‘ takes place.

Local cuisine from Sali is offered, such as fish stew, grilled tuna and sardines, along with traditional sweets. As well, there is an entertainment program featuring famous vocal groups, called Klape.

On the third day, Saturday, sporting events and competitions take place during the day and in the evening a ‘Sali Night‘ is held and the docks and boats are adorned with lights. An entertainment program takes place along the waterfront.

The fourth day, Sunday, is the closing day. The morning begins

Special events

Folklore Festival 29 & 30. 08 at 17:00 - 22:00 and 31. 08 at 09:00 - 13:00 (Trg pet bunara)

28.06 Friday - 02.08 Friday

19 th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 31 45 86, www.hnk-zadar.hr. Running between 28 June and 2 August, the 19th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival is dedicated this year to music and dance. The festival opens on 28 June with a performance of Salsa Filarmonica on Poljana Šime Budinića performed by the Ricardo Luque & Olvido Ruiz Castellanos and Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra from Zagreb; Then, from 8 July a summer stage in the Deputy’s Palace hosts the music part of the festival, with a range of local and international bosa nova and blues performers (John Lee Sanders meets Rad Gumbo, Sugar Blue Band, Catia Werneck Quartet etc.) Q Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Sundays only ate the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8).

09.07 Tuesday - 14.08 Wednesday

The 53rd Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, St. Francis’ Church, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www. donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8).

27.07 Saturday

Millenium Jump B/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event which is being held for the fourth year in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air!

The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science. Q J

Zadar In Your Pocket

24.08 Saturday - 30.08 Friday

Avvantura Festival Filmforumzadar B-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 099 413 43 59, office@filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/en/ the-player/. A platform for European co-productions and professional filmmakers by promotng Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences, film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole lot more.

The Brkan Brothers When we talk about the contemporary photography, it’s impossible not to mention Ante and Zvonimir Brkan. Combining arresting visuals with coastal themes, they were key members of the progressive Zadar Photographic Circle, which founded the exhibition Man and the Sea, the triennial of contemporary photography in 1957. It enjoyed particular acclaim during the ’50s and ‘60s, travelling to over 50 countries. So, not only were they two of Croatia’s most important photographers, but they were also perhaps two of the people most responsible for breathing the spirit of Zadar out and over the rest of the world.

Theatres Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno

Veli Rat, Photo by A. Gospić with a traditional reveille. In the afternoon, the famous ‚donkey races‘ are held, a spectacular event, not to be missed. At the end of the race there is an awards ceremony and entertainment program on the waterfront.

The Development of Local Customs: Tovareća mužika draws its musical roots from a collection of random sounds made to create a noise, called batarela. This sound has been present in Dugi Otok for many generations. Originally, batarela calls were used to chase away the evil spirits during the long and cold nights, and also celebrated and mocked widows who were getting married again. However, in 1959, at the wedding of an older woman, a structured noise was introduced in order to create a recognizable tune to the disordered sounds.

Gradually, over the years, drums and horns were added and eventually an impromptu orchestra was formed.

Outfits: The Tovarća mužika have two combinations of outfits, which they officially chose in 1963, as their uniforms.

These outfits worn at festivals and during performances were selected to represent the clothes that fishermen wore from the early 20th century. The first outfit, consists of a fisherman‘s hat, called a rašketa, a white shirt without a collar, a black vest, black trousers with a belt, white socks and black

kazalište) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

Sali Tourist Board

klz.hr, www.klz.hr.

Tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www. dugiotok.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

Zadar Puppet Theatre (Kazalište lutaka Zadar) D-3, Sokolska 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 11 22, klz@

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shoes. Optionally, a gold earring can be worn on the right ear or a pocket watch can be used to accessorize. The conductor of the orchestra, wears a top hat instead of rašketa, a black bow tie or a scarf around his neck, a white vest and if he wishes, white shoes and may carry a cane. The second outfit, the groups ‘navy‘ uniform, was chosen because of the connection of the island and it‘s most famous instrument, the horn, with the sea. It also consists of a rašketa, along with a blue-and-white striped sailor‘s shirt, blue fishing pants tied with white rope or nets, and traditional footwear, called škarpini. Again, optionally, a gold earring can be worn in the right ear and it is not mandatory to wear the škarpini. The conductor wears a top hat instead of rašketa, and a longsleeved shirt, instead of a short-sleeved one.

New Members: The training of future Tovareća mužika members begins during elementary school. They are called, Pulići, and they perform at smaller events and children‘s folklore festivals. Since the ensemble was created, hundreds of boys and young men have joined. It is common to hear, throughout the year, boys learning to play the horns and drums. When a senior members of Tovareće mužike goes into retirement, a Pulići, which is in high school, can become a ‘real‘ Tovareća mužika group member.

Dugi Otok, the seventh largest island in Croatia, is located off of the Dalmatian coast, west of Zadar. It is full of sparkling beaches and picturesque villages, set against a background of magnificent vineyards, orchards and cliffs filled with lush vegetation. The island can be reached daily by ferry from Zadar, as well as neighbouring islands.

Don‘t miss out on experiencing this spectacular unique event and seeing the Tovareća mužika group in action!

Tovareca

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MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ

MAGNIFICENT MEŠTROVIĆ

Every country has its national treasures: people or institutions that define that nation; that make it proud or simply make its people a little gladder to be alive than they would have been otherwise. One of Croatia’s national treasures is undoubtedly the sculptor Ivan Meštrović. In his work you can clearly see the conflicts and passions that made him, like his statues, very much larger than life.

Many of Croatia’s major cities, as well as its small towns and hamlets, boast works that are profound expressions of Meštrović’s powerful and sometimes turbulent character.

Stand at the foot of the mighty statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin in Split and the most committed atheist can’t help being instilled with a sense of awe. Gaze at Meštrović’s studies of peasant women, and you can feel the essence of their culture, the artist’s reverence for his roots in the rocky Dalmatian hinterland.

Meštrović was not born in Dalmatia. Around the time of his birth in 1883, his parents moved to the village of Vrpolje in Slavonia, eastern Croatia, in search of work. There, his father Mate, a literate man and a skilled mason, found work as a labourer on the new railway. The family moved back to their home village of Otavice, just inland from Šibenik, when the young Ivan was tiny.

Meštrović was very much influenced by his childhood in the

The Church of the Holy Redeemer, Photo by Z. Alajbeg place where the Dinaric Alps plunge into the Adriatic Sea. The terrain is harsh and rocky: there, working with stone is a natural reflection of people’s connection with their environment. The tough conditions contrast with an austere but starkly beautiful culture. The rhythms of life are expressed in song, dance and crafts and are framed by the forbidding backdrop of pale rock against the dazzling blue sea.

The young Meštrović tended sheep; he drank in the ballads of the villagers and the Bible stories his mother recited by heart. He taught himself to read and write by comparing those recited stories with the pages of his father’s Bible. He tried to carve the characters from these tales in wood and stone.

At the age of 17, Meštrović’s talent for carving was noticed by a number of people who raised the money necessary to send him to work as an apprentice under a stonemason named

Pavle Bilinić in Split. Split still today is a living museum with the large and well-preserved palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian forming its core, and a magical mixture of gothic, renaissance, baroque and later architectures. It’s easy to imagine the young Meštrović walking the polished stone flags of the street and gazing up in wonder: he would go on to design some equally splendid buildings himself Bilinić and his wife Gina felt their charge showed exceptional promise and succeeded in bringing his talent to the attention of an Austrian mine-owner in Drniš who, among others, undertook to financially support Meštrović while he studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna.

Before that could begin, however, a new challenge awaited the young sculptor: learning the German language. It’s important to remember at this point that Meštrović had never had any formal schooling.

His first years in Vienna were hard since his benefactors reneged on their promises. Meštrović rebelled against some aspects of Academy life, but his years in Vienna were formative, opening his eyes to the intellectual and artistic currents of the time. It was here that he met his first wife Ruža.

Heeding the advice of Auguste Rodin (who had an enduring respect for the young sculptor), the couple embarked on a life of travel. A number of commissions, including the powerful fountain “The Source of Life” which today stands in front of the National Theatre in Zagreb, enabled the couple to spend time in Austria, France, Italy, Serbia, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the United States.

Meštrović worked and exhibited profusely. In 1903 came the first of many exhibitions with the world-famous Vienna Secession group. In 1911 he won the grand prize for sculpture at the international exhibition in Rome, where Gustav Klimt won the first prize for painting. His circle of friends comprised the most renowned artists of the day. He created works

which still stand today in countries throughout Europe and beyond.

Perhaps his most famous works outside Croatia are the Spearman and the Bowman (or the “Indians”) in Grant Park (Michigan Ave), Chicago.

He was the first living artist to have a solo exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London (1915) and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (1947).

Meštrović lef t Croatia durin g the Second World War after his „Contenplation“ imprisonment by the pro-Nazi wartime regime. After the Second World War he refused to live under Yugoslav communist regime so in 1947 he accepted a post at Syracuse University, New York State, and in 1955 moved to Notre Dame University, South Bend, Indiana, where he died in 1962. He was buried in his parents’ village of Otavice, Croatia.

During his lifetime, Meštrović became a member of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the American Academy of Arts and Letters and the American Institute of Architects, and an honorary member of The Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna. He became an American citizen in 1954. His legacy includes hundreds of sculptures, medals, monuments and public buildings all over the world.

Ten years before he died, he made a gift of the bulk of his life’s work to the nation, including his family homes in Split and Zagreb and chapels in Split and Otavice. These are now Ivan Meštrović Museums and are open to the public. The year 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the death of this remarkable man. So make a date to see some of his works.

Meštrović’s birth Anniversary 17.09 Tuesday - 01.12 Sunday

Thank her - an exhibition of sculptures and drawings celebrating the 130th anniversary since Meštrović‘s birth D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. Let‘s all take some time out to give thanks to our mothers and show our appreciation, as famous sculptor Ivan Meštrović did, by visiting his exhibition this fall. To commemorate the 130th anniversary of his birth, selected pieces of his artwork, which represent gratitude towards mothers and motherhood, will be displayed at the Town Guard Loggia. Using sculptures and drawings, Meštrović showed maternal love and suffering, the role of motherhood, and even combined religious images using the birth and death of Jesus to express his thankfulness.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Woman Glances at Meštrović Atelier, Photo by Željko Krčadinac

“The Merchants are Banished from the Temple”

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CAMPING IN CROATIA

CAMPING IN CROATIA

keep the little ones entertained while you take a well-earned break. The following are among the top campsites in Croatia when it comes to facilities and family-friendly entertainment: Zaton near Zadar (winner of an ADAC “Best Family Campsite” award), Soline near Biograd, San Marino at Lopar (Rab island), Solaris near Šibenik, Straško near Novalja (Pag island), the camping park at Umag, Poljana on Mali Lošinj island, Kovačine at Cres town (Cres island), the campsite at Krk town (Krk island), and Zelena Laguna at Poreč.

Naturist camping

Got heaps of time on your hands this summer but not so much money? Get thyself a tent, dear friend, and indulge in the joys of camping! There‘s 1000km of coast at your disposal in Croatia, and almost as many islands. There are forests and meadows, rivers and mountains, all waiting to be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or even on your trusty four wheels.

Croatia‘s campsites grew up during the 20th century to cater for everyone from inter-railing students to well-off families in motor homes that are better-equipped than many peoples‘ apartments. People love the freedom that camping offers.

You can head off on a great road trip, stopping where you fancy. And there‘s something special about crawling into your very own nylon and fiberglass home or lying back in a deckchair while steaks sizzle on the barbecue and cicadas chirrup all around.

Food and drink Camping is a great way to get to know a country. When it comes to mealtimes, you get to choose between sampling local restaurants or exploring shops and markets for local produce. Campsites usually have inexpensive eateries onsite or nearby, and in our experience they‘ve always been fine, serving stuff like grilled mackerel, fried sardines, squid, risottos, grilled meats and salads. And when it‘s time for a light snack, is there any better taste than freshly-baked bread and ripe tomatoes drizzled with home-produced olive oil, eaten in the shade?

Creature comforts The best news is that in recent years the standard of facilities in campsites has improved considerably. Whether you‘re heading for the quietest outpost on the remotest island or the biggest resorts on the tourist itinerary, these days your shower block is mostly modern and clean, while washing machines, fridges and barbecues will probably be at your disposal. An increasing number of sites offer facilities for dog owners such as designated beaches and dog showers.

Some campsites offer beautifully-appointed mobile homes or bungalows, others have communal areas that look like

Zadar In Your Pocket

Crkvine Camp trendy lounge bars, and an increasing number are open all year and have heated facilities. Many campsites have also have tents and trailers for rent so you can camp even if you don‘t have kit of your own.

Fresh air and exercise Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great outdoors, it‘s a happy coincidence that many campsites are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the country‘s national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun combination.

Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.

The big campsites If you‘re looking for activities and entertainment the big campsites have most to offer. On the beaches you‘ll find pedaloes, water slides, bananas, jet skis and more. There are tennis courts, volleyball courts, five-a-side football pitches and table tennis tables. You can rent bikes, mopeds and small boats.

And for families with small children, there are usually beaches suitable for kids, as well as hosts and hostesses who will

The Croatian coast has for decades been a top destination for fans of naturist (clothing-free) holidays. German advocates of the Freikörperkultur (“Free Body Culture”, or “FKK”) philosophy of healthy living helped establish naturist facilities here in the early 20th century. Where you see the FKK sign, that means you‘re about to enter a naturist zone.

Nowadays, although you‘ll find naturist beaches at almost every resort along the coast, there are some spots which are particularly well-known for catering for naturists. Examples are Rab island where the first naturist beach was established; the Istrian island of Koversada, one of the largest naturist resorts in Europe; the islet of Jerolim just offshore from Hvar town (Hvar island), and the Valalta complex near Rovinj in Istria.

You can choose between fully naturist campsites, clothingoptional campsites and regular campsites with naturist bathing onsite. If you‘re off the beaten track, you‘re sure to find a secluded spot where it‘s perfectly well-tolerated for naturists to sunbathe and swim.

Croatia is one of the three countries in Europe with the most naturist camping facilities. Most of them are on the northern part of the coast (Istria and Kvarner). Here are our suggestions: Sovinje (Zadar), Bunculuka (Baška, otok Krk), Nudist (Split), Konobe (Krk), Koversada (Vrsar), Ulika (Poreč), Kamp Baldarin (Mali Lošinj).

Things to do Apart from activities organised by campsites, we recommend the following things to do during your stay.

Istria In Istria, head for Beram, a hamlet of 200 souls where the Church of St Mary on Škriljinah has an amazing fresco of the Danse Macabre dating from 1747. At Bale, a picturesque little inland town that Casanova is said to have visited, in the Ulika gallery you can see dinosaur remains that were found nearby.

Pazin in the heart of Istria is noted for its karst cave where the Pazin river plunges underground. The cave is said to have inspired Jules Verne for his fantastic stories.

San Marino on Rab Island

Kvarner If you‘re in Kvarner, don‘t miss the old smithy at Dražice (just inland from Rijeka) where you can see how blacksmiths ply their trade. Close by is Gašparov mlin, a well-preserved watermill, one of several at Grobnik. For a tour, contact the Jelenje Tourist Association on 051 297 152.

For a great hike, head for Mali Lošinj island and climb the peak of Osoršćica (588m). You‘ll be rewarded by a 360-degree view of Pag and Silba islands, the Istrian peninsula, the mountains of Gorski kotar and the Velebit range. Trails start

Don´t Light My Fire Don‘t even think about it. Long, hot summers turn the vegetation in Dalmatia into one huge tinderbox. Wildfires caused by a moment‘s thoughtlessness spread rapidly with tragic consequences for people, wildlife and property, so penalties for culprits are stiff.

Here are a few tips to help you avoid hitting the headlines for all the wrong reasons: Litter: We‘re sure you have the good sense and good manners not to leave your litter strewn around the countryside, but be especially aware that discarded glass and plastic can act as a magnifying glass for the sun‘s rays and be a cause of fire.

Cigarettes: A tin with a lid or a screwtop container makes a great portable ashtray so you can dispose of your cigarette ends properly in a rubbish bin. If you must dispose of your cigarette end in the countryside, be especially careful to extinguish it properly, and definitely don‘t throw burning butts from the car window.

Fires and barbecues: Flying sparks can set overhead trees alight and fires will race over grass and scrub. Look for designated areas in camp sites and nature parks with properly enclosed barbecues. Be sure to have water to hand in case of mishaps, and be sure your fire is properly out before you leave it.

Designated Campsites only!

The San Marino holiday complex in Lopar on Rab island is named after the saint who also gave his name to the tiny republic of San Marino, just across the Adriatic.

Legend has it that San Marino (or Saint Marinus) was born in Lopar in the 4th century AD.

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Take a peek into the shipwreck of the Baron Gautsch, an Austrian passenger ship which sank in 1914. It lies 40m below the surface 6 nm southwest of the island and lighthouse named Sveti Ivan na Pučini. The ship is a protected site so diving is only permitted through registered diving centres. It is incredibly well preserved, still displaying its belle époque beauty. And speaking of boats, visit the misleadingly-named Eko muzej Batana at Rovinj, which has nothing to do with organic vegetables but is all about a traditional type of boat, the batana.

Abbys of Pazin Pazin, tel. (+385-52) 62 50 40, www. pazinska-jama.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 15 - 30kn.

The Batana Ecomuseum Obala P. Budicina 2, Rovinj, batana@rv-batana.t-com.hr, www.batana.org. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Tickets 5 - 10kn.

The Church of St Mary on Škriljinah Beram, tel.

Mrs Šestan, (+385-52) 62 29 03. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Ulika Gallery Rovinjska 1, Bale, tel. Bale Tourist Office (+385-52) 82 42 70. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Don‘t be tempted to set up camp at the roadside for the night! It might earn you a fine. Camping in Croatia is only allowed at proper campsites or designated parking facilities for camper vans.

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Summer 2013

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WHERE TO STAY

CAMPING IN CROATIA at Nerezine or Osor (just across the causeway on Cres island).

Be sure to take plenty of water and in hot weather start early in the morning. There‘s a mountain lodge open during the summer every day except Mondays.

On a cultural note, in Mali Lošinj town, in the museum in the Fritzy palace you can see the Mihičić Collection of contemporary Croatian painting, sculpture and medallions, and the Piperata Collection - 27 works by Italian masters of the 17th and 18th century. Take a step back in time in Rab town on 25-27 July when the Knight‘s Tournament and the Rapska fjera take place. This is the town‘s annual fiesta held in honour of its patron Saint Christopher and King Ljudevit the Great which began 1346.

Jelenje Tourist Association, tel. (+385-51) 29 71 52, info@tz-jelenje.hr, www.tz-jelenje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. St Gaudent Hiking Lodge Osoršćica Mountain, tel. (+385-) 098 40 34 69. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. The Lošinj Museum V.Gortana 35, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 38 92, www.muzej.losinj.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5 - 10kn.

Northern and central Dalmatia If Dalmatia is your destination, apart from the sights we describe in our Zadar county pages (pp.55) we suggest the following. If you‘re travelling from the Zagreb direction, turn off the motorway at Gospić to visit the Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre. Tesla, a massive genius and charming eccentric, was born right here.

Ease away your aches and pains at Zablaće, just 9km from the Solaris camp near Šibenik. The medicinal mud here has been proven to be effective in relieving rheumatism.

Or, for a little more action, sign up for the military-style adventures on the islet of Mrčara, close to Lastovo island.

Here they offer team building, fitness boot camps and military-themed games.

Not so far away on Vis island, be sure to visit the pleasing park in Vis town. Keen botanists might spot an unusual Mazari palm, not often spotted outside Asia and the Middle East.

Likewise, on Hvar island nature lovers will have ample chances to see agaves in flower. Agaves flower only after the plant has been growing for 100 years, and after flowering has finished the plant dies. That makes the flower worth seeing in our book. Agaves are among the iconic images of the beautiful green coast of Dalmatia.

Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre Smiljan, tel. (+385-53) 74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 20-50kn.

Southern Dalmatia If Southern Dalmatia is your destination, we recommend a visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum near Metković, where you can learn about the ruins of a Roman temple found here. At Močići you can see an ancient stone carving of the god Mitrej. And towards the very southern tip of Croatia, in the village of Dunave, where the borders of Croatia, Hercegovina and Montenegro meet, you can climb to the Sokol Tower. From here, as you take in the view of the entire Konavle region, you can get a sense of the mighty fortifications that once stood guard over the Republic of Ragusa.

Narona Archaeological Museum Vid, tel. (+385-20) 69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

Sokol Tower Dunave, Konavle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

Small and family-run campsites Camping these days need not be a spartan, style-free experience. The following campsites offer something special, be it a warm family welcome, concern for good management or a refreshing dose of good design. Kamp Jasenovo (Šibenik), Kamp Maslinik (Punat, Krk island), Kamp Adriatic (Orebić), Kamp Village Zrmanja (Draga, near Obrovac), Kamp Vira (Hvar) - voted best mid-sized campsite in 2012.

Eco-friendly campsites In recent years a growing number of campsites in Croatia have worked hard to achieve certification for environmental standards. Certified camps have clean beaches and water, conserve energy and other resources, prevent pollution and provide recycling facilities. Among the best eco-friendly camps in Croatia are Kamp Krk on Krk island and Kamp Stobreč in Split. Kamp Stobreč in 2009 won a Federcampeggia award for hospitality and environmentally-friendly facilities.

Desert island camping If you prefer to get away from everything, and everybody, while you‘re on holiday head for a secluded campsite where you can enjoy Robinson Crusoe style solitude. Try these ones: Kamp Paradiso (Drage, near Šibenik), Kamp Lupis (Pelješac), Kamp Ujča (Senj), Kamp Kate (Mlini), Kamp Aloa (Brač), or Kamp Sloga (Prvić Luka).

Mobile homes Love the idea of camping but not so keen to give up your creature comforts? Mobile homes and bungalows may be just what you need. A fair few campsites now offer mobile homes or prefab bungalows for rent, which can be surprisingly stylish (not to mention comfortable). This gives you reasonably-priced accommodation in peaceful surroundings with the luxury of your own bathroom. Try Autokamp Slamni on Krk island or Kamp Straško on Pag island.

A word of warning Several readers told us that despite having confirmed reservations and paid deposits, they have been turned away from some campsites due to overbooking. Unfortunately we can‘t assist directly in these matters, but if this happens to you do let us know about and we‘ll remove the culprits from our guide. We also suggest you leave your comments on Trip Advisor and similar sites to warn others.

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Upmarket Art Hotel Kalelarga C-3, Ulica Majke Margarite 1,

tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, info@ arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com.

Thematically designed guest rooms with stone paved walls offer a true Dalmatian feel, very classy and designed to a tea. The hotel maintains all the essential amenities and is located in the heart of the old city, hence everything is walking distance. Fresh pastries to die for in the mornings and the selected wines can be downed by season dishes. Q10 rooms (9 singles €179, 9 doubles €205, 1 Junior Suite €307).

PZARGKW hhhh Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@ hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you‘re seeking accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219, 3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite €298). PZJHARFLGBKDXwW hhhh Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+38523) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can accommodate up to three children. Prices are per person per day, all-inclusive and for Luxury suite available upon request.

Q247 rooms (54 doubles €79 - 133, 88 Mini Family €82 149, 53 Family Royal €92 - 154, 48 Family Suites €107 - 159, 4 Luxury Suites €). PTHAUFEGBKDCwW hhhh Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www. falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you‘ve seen it, you‘ll want to buy into it. The ultimate in comfort and tasteful design, with a surrounding park and pool area which are a sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per person.

Q48 rooms (42 Junior Suites €91 - 146, 6 Standard Rooms €86 - 141). PHAFEGBKDXCwW hhhh

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00,

fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The closest hotel to the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of wellto-do villas. Prices are per room per night, including breakfast.

Q203 rooms (27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 1334kn, 36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn).

PJHAUGBKCW hhhh

Mid-range Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)

55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@ falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. Part of the Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and you‘re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options.

Prices are per person. Q250 rooms (36 singles €52 - 80, 126 doubles €46 - 73, 34 triples €46 - 73, 54 Family Rooms €52 - 78). PTHAEGBKXCW hhh Hotel Marinko G-4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 091 429 99 09, fax (+38523) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A rather colourful new villa-style building, close to all the Borik amenities. All rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies, although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Q21 rooms (15 doubles €75, 6 triples €85). PALBKW hhh

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

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WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO STAY Out of town

Hotel Lucija - Posedarje Tel: 023/266844, Fax: 023/266 843 prodaja@hotel-lucija.hr

Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29

Hotel Bastion Zadar

Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23)

33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close to the Borik complex and beaches. It‘s a pleasant, clean, family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning available. Prices are per room with breakfast.

Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 720kn). PALGBKXW hhh Porto R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about 15 minutes‘ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices, clean bright rooms, and decent food. It‘s on the crossroads heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it‘s ideal for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103 rooms (8 singles €54 - 56, 38 doubles €74 - 78, 51 triples €86 - 90, 6 apartments €98 - 102). PHARLGBKXW hhh Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel.

Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four.

Prices are per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGCW hhh

Zadar In Your Pocket

07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar.

Close to the heart of Biograd and the town‘s excellent beach, the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are per person including breakfast. Q104 rooms (99 doubles €42 - 125, 5 apartments €80 - 135). PTJHAF LEBKDCW hhh Aparthotel Lekavski Dražnikova 15, Zaton - Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 58 88, fax (+385-23) 26 58 90, hotel@ Lekavski.de, www.Lekavski.de. A very attractive new villa, family-owned. In the old centre of Zaton, with all its nightlife and leisure opportunities, and in easy reach of the sandy beaches. Clean and comfortable rooms; apartments sleep 2-4. Q18 rooms (14 doubles €50 - 95, 4 suites €75 - 135).

PTALGBKCW hhh Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23) 38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr.

This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound.

Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms (90 apartments 214 - 432kn). Prices are per person.

PHA6LGBKW hhh Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+38523) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@ hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built, recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKXW hhh Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39 65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd. com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation. The remaining floors are a little cheaper.

Ample sports facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person including breakfast. Pets welcome on request.

Q165 rooms (158 doubles €48 - 125, 7 apartments €85 162). PTJHARFLEBKDCW hhhh Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd. com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean, comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices per person with breakfast. Q106 rooms (102 doubles €42 - 97, 4 apartments €70 - 130). PTJHARFLEBKDCW hhhh Lucija Braće Dežmalj bb, Posedarje, tel. (+385-23) 26 68 44, fax (+385-23) 26 68 43, prodaja@hotel-lucija.hr, www.hotel-lucija.hr. With a private pebbled beach, terraced restaurant, and rooms, suites or apartments to choose from, this family run hotel oozes relaxation and tranquillity.

Sat TV, air-con and bathrooms in all rooms and friendly staff will organize excursions to local attractions. Q28 rooms (2 singles €38 - 51, 22 doubles €60 - 88, 2 suites €72 - 144, 2 apartments €90 - 130). PHARGKW hhh

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, Sv. Filip Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 39 14 20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@ marenostrum-hr.com, www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small town between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful, modern airy rooms, all with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea views. Friendly staff. Prices include breakfast. Q14 rooms (14 doubles €60 - 100).

PALGBKXW hhh Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+38523) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.

A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta), spor ts and excursions. Prices are per person. Q 300 rooms (300 singles €86 - 112, 300 doubles €59 - 78).

PTJHAUFBKDCW hhhh Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76t, Nin Zaton, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite placed to take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton.

Zaton has a huge array of activities, including water sports, horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and a popular nightclub. Q597 rooms (597 apartments €33 - 267).

PTA6UFLEBKCW hhhh

Hostels Boutique Hostel Forum B - 3, Široka ulica

20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax (+385-23) 25 07 95, booking@hostelforumzadar.com, www. hostelforumzadar.com. Relatively new nifty hostel with a sense of dimensionality that will have you in an illusionary comfy modern state. Free Wi-Fi and air-con allround with other essentials. It‘s better than your average hostel and best of its smack bag in the centre of town. Q 111 dorm beds, €24 - 84 per person. PHAGXW Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for backpackers. It is situated at the Arbanasi district close to the Bus Station and Kolovare Beach, and the old town is only a 20-25 minute walk away. The hostel has got all the necessary facilities including kitchen, individual rooms and a small bar, as well as laundry service. Q 30 dorm beds, 170 - 230kn per person. PNGBCW Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions in Zadar‘s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated. Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you‘re lucky enough to book into the new place, you‘ll pay a little extra. Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff. Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for between 2 and 8 people. Q 253 dorm beds, 14 - 37€ per person.

THAUGBKW

Islands Agava Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www. hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, massage, fitness centre, tennis and diving in Božava‘s famous clear waters. Recently refurbished, with accommodation in apartments with kitchenettes. Prices are per person with breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q19 rooms (17 doubles €43 - 78, 2 apartments €43 - 78). PTA6FG KDCwW hhh Korinjak Veli Iž, Iž Island, tel./fax (+385-23) 27 72 48, info@korinjak.com, www.korinjak.com. Hotel Korinjak runs summer courses under the umbrella programme “Soul Vacations”. Learn to understand yourself, reduce stress, and more... Also yoga courses. A vegetarian menu and relaxing activities complement the courses. Prices are per person per day. Q78 rooms (15 singles €45 - 85, 63 doubles €35 - 65).

HALGBKW hh Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view.

Božava is perfect if you‘re looking for peace and quiet in pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts.

You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices are per person with breakfast. Q87 rooms (87 doubles €43 - 78).

PTA6FGBKDCwW hhh zadar.inyourpocket.com

Photo by Boris Kačan

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LOCAL FLAVOUR FEATURE

LOCAL FLAVOUR

The coast

Prisnac Festival The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb‘s open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food. Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was.

In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring

home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home. However, a trip to Zadar‘s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you‘ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden. Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar‘s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region‘s most interesting specialities. Let‘s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you‘d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

The obvious place to start. In Zadar‘s restaurant‘s you can‘t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey brudet sauce. Then there‘s risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious. Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta. What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada - beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol - bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water‘s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus.

This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It‘s the perfect remedy when you‘ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.

City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most Dalmatian

towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar‘s

is one of the biggest and best. It‘s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town.

Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you‘ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese - usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it‘s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.

Kužina, Photo by Mladen Radolović Mrlja (Zadar National Museum Archives)

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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LOCAL FLAVOUR

Nin Šokolijada, Photo by Marija Dejanović Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar‘s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they‘re succulent and delicious.

Then there‘s lamb and kid goat. It‘s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it‘s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it‘s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.

Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don‘t figure much on the traditional menu. Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia‘s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It‘s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all

the more so as it‘s low in fat. You‘ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn‘t keep for long. You probably won‘t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

Local dishes Kaštradina Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands.

Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You‘ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It‘s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine

Maraschino liqueur

Samphire (Motar)

Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar‘s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it‘s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the bestloved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur - a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty - it‘s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices.

Still available in the same basket-wrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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LOCAL FLAVOUR Salt fish In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.

Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It‘s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces. Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays. If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn‘t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia‘s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

Samphire At the water‘s edge, especially where it‘s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it‘s rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it‘s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining

popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it‘s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It‘s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history - with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices – around 30 - 35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines.

Vinarija Škaulj Nadin 23, Benkovac, tel. (+385-) 091 389 14 21/(+385-23) 66 30 53. Vinarija Škaulj is an award-winning organic winegrower located at Nadin, between Zadar and Benkovac. The winery has tasting facilities which can accommodate up to 50 people. From Zadar follow signs to Benkovac. After the village of Biljane take the turning for Nadin, you‘ll find the winery in the centre of the village. The drive takes 20-30 minutes from Zadar. Call for tastings. Q N

Wine The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and Maraština friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of

Culinary Events Foodie fests in Benkovac

The inland town of Benkovac sits where the Ravni kotari market garden region borders with the Bukovica uplands.

The town‘s culinary festivals are a great chance to sample authentic local specialities.

25 June - The 2013 Ravni Kotari Fišijada - a festival dedicated to fish stew 29 June - “The Snail‘s Trail” festival of gastronomy and the Croatian snail racing championships. Snails are considered a delicacy in much of Dalmatia, and the pristine environment of the Zadar hinterland is a perfect place for these groovy gastropods to grow. Snails in the Benkovac region are cooked over an open fire and served sprinkled with oil, vinegar and salt.

5 July - Vinfest Benkovac - a festival of wines of northern and central Dalmatia 6 July - Bukara Benkovac - a festival of the food, crafts

and culture of the Bukovica uplands and the Ravni Kotari plain 27 July - Benkovac Prisnac Festival: contestants jostle for the title of the best prisnac cake, plus oth er l ocal specialities. Prisnac is the nemesis of anyone tr ying to stick to a lowcholesterol diet. A voluptuous mix of soft cheese, eggs, cream and a little sugar is enveloped in a bread base to create a golden, ge n tl y s we e ti s h A Festival of Nin salt cake. It has been prepared in the hinterland region around Benkovac for centuries.

5 August - “Beeenkovac” (“Baaankovac”): a festival of lamb and kid goat, traditional foods of this region.

Zadar Fig Festival 2013 12-13 September: Exhibition of products made from figs 13 September: Gastro Fig, Pet bunara restaurant, 10:00-12:00 17 September: Children‘s workshop Summer heat. Sea. Sun. Figs so sweet they make your tongue tingle. An unmissable part of the Dalmatian summer. Figs are not just yummy, they also happen to rich in minerals and vitamins. Zadar has its very own fig festival - so don‘t miss it! (Pet bunara restaurant)

The Nin Salt Works

Nin Šokolijada by Marija Dejanović

Zadar In Your Pocket

The Nin Salt Works ( (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today‘s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural‘, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more..

Visit August 28 - a festival of Nin salt.

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award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years. The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand. Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and high-quality, sustainable production methods.

One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend.

All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners.

It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel.

Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal.

Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you

Benkovac Eatery Pizzeria Pape, tel. (+385 -) 092 229 92 39. This little pizzeria in the centre of Benkovac serves an excellent pie but we like it for a few other reasons. It‘s a painstakingly restored smithy all in stone, cool in summer, cosy in winter. They serve the best draft Karlovačko beer we‘ve ever tasted, and there are always great tunes on the stereo. But best of all is the giant mulberry tree in the courtyard - fabulous to look at, and providing great shade to sit in.QOpen 13:00 - 24:00 (25 - 40kn).

Vitlov chocolates - A tantalising blend of milk or fine dark chocolate with maraschino cherries or almonds, cinnamon and other fruits and spices. Made in Zadar and beautifully packaged, if you buy some as a gift you‘ll be lucky to get it home in one piece!

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RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANTS

Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can‘t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A staple diet of poor fishermen‘s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea. They say there‘s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market. A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you‘re nimble). Don‘t get fussy with them - leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman‘s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a salad.

Croatian Atrij D-2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 64 24. The owner of this restaurant and brunch bar also runs the well-thought-of Kornat restaurant. Atrij has a similarly stylish interior, which includes a monthly exhibition of paintings which you can buy. Open from breakfast til dinner, the food is Mediterranean and prepared from fresh, high quality ingredients. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (10 - 118kn). PNGB

Ethnic Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+38523) 33 23 10/(+385-) 099 308 30 88, shanghai. restoran@gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons.

Take out is available if you would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (35 115kn). PAGBW Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Denisa Špike 9, tel. (+38523) 33 77 13/(+385 -) 098 183 51 84, www. pearlofsiam.com.hr. If spicy or the more exotic flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver? The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place - bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00. (30 - 100kn).

PAGBXCW

Zadar In Your Pocket

Bistro Gourmet Kalelarga C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivoresthe meat dishes are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don‘t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won‘t be disappointed. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn).

PAGBXW Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+38523) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade‘ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 110kn).

PJAGBW Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day‘s sightseeing. It‘s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PABX Grill Canzona C-3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it‘s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and prices are proportional. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 140kn). PNB zadar.inyourpocket.com

Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 190kn). PALBW Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.

QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 190kn). PJAB Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www.malo-misto.com. The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 170kn). PB Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23) 33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel, there‘s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It‘s a place to wind down at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 140kn). PLNGBXW Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. Inside the new apart-hotel, an a‘ la carte restaurant serving Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn).

PAB Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant, green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 150kn). PAGBW Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, (Hotel Mediteran), tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, inf o@ hotelmediteran-zd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PAGBXW Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27 28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising, apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada (beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine and vegetables). Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn).

PAGBW Pet Bunara D-3, Stratico ulica, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You‘re in for a real treat! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn). PAB Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 75.

A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNGB

Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it‘s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

(40 - 120kn). PJNGB Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23) 21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). NB

Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20 04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality, and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn).

PA6B Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It‘s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PLNBW Skoblar D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under

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RESTAURANTS Small plates and sweet treats Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can‘t smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments, after all).

Art Kalelarga C-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-

23) 23 30 00, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www. arthotel-kalelarga.com. What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay than by gobbling down some amazing cake combinations. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing asparagus cake. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW Danica C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBW Eva Il Gellato Originale C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel, (+385 -23) 25 19 09. The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat the heat wave and choose your flave!QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

PAGBXW Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg. QOpen 07:00 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00.

PNGBW Pla n k i t C - 3 , K n e z ova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385 -23) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super terrace on the square ou tsid e S t Ch r ysogonus‘ Church. You can pick up a sandwich, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNB

Zadar In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines.

Live music most weekends too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (40 120kn). PJAGBX Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it‘s a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar favourite for generations. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn).

PNGBX Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). NBW Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/ (+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of our readers wrote in and told us that “if you‘re looking for a restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can‘t go wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi, but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple. The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name (which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.

(55 - 400kn). PAB Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar. hr. A ‘konoba‘ is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day‘s catch. You won‘t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it‘s small and intimate and if you‘re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 95kn). PJAGBXW Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel. (+385) 098 40 33 22. A well-kept secret - an old stone house with only five or six tables. All the food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in the know say it‘s a good place in Zadar for octopus cooked ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the old village of Stari Bokanjac, you‘ll see signs for the konoba. You have to order what you want to eat a day in advance, because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in, or phone. Very special. QOpen 18:00 24:00. (65 - 100kn). PLNB

Breakfast Croccante C-3, Široka ulica 14. When the tummy‘s rumbling and you are after a top-notch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast.

Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).

Forum C-3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

(3 - 40kn). NB zadar.inyourpocket.com

Fast food Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87. There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven.

They‘re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving.

Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place to munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (20 - 32kn). PNB Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00.

(10 - 35kn). PNBW Obelix G -2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it‘s a good place to pick up a bite if you‘re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town. Located next to Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for its summer parties and fried sardines which the owner gives to passer bys for free.

The program is on Wednesdays from 9 pm until 1 am.

QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. (8 - 32kn).

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it‘s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

Sabunjar R-3, Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55,

tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and you‘ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn). PALGBX

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RESTAURANTS

Art Kalelarga

Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr.

A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.

(75 - 150kn). PALBW

Out of town Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.

(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd‘s old town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia‘s Church, the garden is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines, with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open 15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 50kn).

PNGBX Konoba Branimir Višeslavov trg 2, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 48 66/(+385-) 091 587 08 39. A wonderful, haciendastyle terrace overlooking the tiny white Church of the Holy Cross in Nin, the foundation stone of Christianity in Croatia.

So, it‘s fair to say that it is, ahem, blessed with one of the finest views in the country. See the stone fireplace inside made from an altar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (45 - 90kn). AB

RESTAURANTS Konoba Grmalj Premuda 122, Premuda Island, tel. (+385-23) 37 66 65. A little terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island. A gorgeous location to try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish) ispod peke. People claim that kid goat is a better meat than lamb as it‘s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). NBX Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+38523) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef.

He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge.

Book in advance. Q Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 - 120kn).

A6LB Tony Kožino XI 76, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian specialities and international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff.

On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (35 - 300kn). PALB Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane. jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely spot on Biograd‘s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside, look out for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(60 - 150kn). PAB Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster. Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

(80 - 110kn). AB

Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that‘s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy.

Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza.

QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALBW Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia‘s pizza toppings

on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PALGXW Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn). PALBW Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+38523) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the water‘s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar‘s best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still their strong point. However, the overall experience, including the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days.

QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB

Seafood Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31

Foodie Sukošan Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+38523) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it‘s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 200kn). PAGB

Zadar In Your Pocket

are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(28 - 200kn). NGBXW Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil‘ baby out of the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNB Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90.

Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNGBXW

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44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00 23:30. (70 - 160kn). PJAB Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +38523) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

(75 - 330kn). PALBW Niko G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko.hr.

Popularly called ‚kod Erika‘ by locals, this restaurant is located

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NIGHTLIFE

CAFÉS As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it‘s vital to have a chance to catch up with the day‘s gossip over a macchiato.

That means the coffee is usually good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too. Boo to globalisation!

72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those places where local characters congregate, and here they‘re cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‚72, hence the name. It‘s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest beer in town at 14kn a bottle. QOpen 07:00 01:30. PBX Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.

Bamboo bar

Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-

23) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGB Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!

QOpen 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGBXW Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is built on the ruins of Saint Catherine‘s Church. That may explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas, different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJNGB Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb. A fine location on the Kalelarga.

The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus‘, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum.

Cake. Mmmmmmmmm. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB

Zadar In Your Pocket

Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00.

PNBXW Illy Concept Bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere.

Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBXW Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Not that you‘ll want to sit inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGBX Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.

More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX Novi Caffe D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31 15 14. On Five Wells Square, right by one of the “Pillars of Shame”. Intellectuals are now rumoured to meet here and flog themselves with metaphorical cats-o-nine-tails. Mea culpa!!

QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGBXW Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern and stylish. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PGBXW Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. Q Open 07:00 - 01:30.

PAGBXW Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBXW VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 03:00. BX

Flirting in Croatian Men: have you ever been reduced to tears after a yet another withering put-down from a cucumber-cool Croatian female? Never fear; help is now at hand. A new book, written by Laura Lui and Jelena Primorac, is a humorous guide for foreigners filled with chat-up lines harvested from their chums in Croatia, Bosnia and all over the world, translated into Croatian and ready for you to try out (at your peril!) It‘s available on Amazon and from selected shops in Croatia. You get the code to an online MP3 version so you can listen and repeat in fine language-school style. A guide for girls is coming soon, and if you‘ve got a special line for hooking the chappies you‘d like to contribute, send the girls a mail on info@ flirtingincroatian.com.

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Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar‘s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It‘s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. B

Hangin‘ out

Carmina burana,Forumu 2007, Photo by V. Ivanov On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar‘s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you‘ll find an unpretentious mix of people. While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar‘s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent nights, and a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.

Clubs Zadar doesn‘t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds of music on different nights. At the time of going to press, in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue what would be happening when this summer, so keep an eye out for flyers and posters. Here‘s a general idea of what to expect.

Apart from that, the good news is the crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you find in so many resorts is pretty much absent.

Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+38523) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it‘s a café, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PAGBW Orange D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 2, www. facebook.com/OrangeClubZadar Situated along the Zadar City walls, one of the strengths of this place is the majestic view of the harbor especially during sunset. The interior isn‘t very inspiring, but don‘t let that stop you from enjoying the electronic music as played to the early hours of the morning.

Cocktail bars Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo G-5, Obala kneza

Domagoja bb. This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30.

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One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local Maraschino cherries - a particularly aromatic variety, a little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared up to the max. As we all know, it‘s the quiet ones you have to watch, and, like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal clear and syrupy) was first made by 16th Century monks, who called it sun dew. Apparently the fruits and young leaves of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would be imbued with positive effects. The city‘s Maraška factory is the yellow building on the mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well as other drinks, for years. It‘s something which the locals are rightly proud of.

Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21 13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar Tourist Board put their heads together so you can find all the tourist information you need. From accommodation to tours, Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all at Arsenal.

Q Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. PTJAEBKW Back Door N-5, Polačišće 9, tel. (+385-23) 77 90 42, backdoorzadar@gmail.com. Small and full of charm with a pleasant interior, excellent service and above all - tasty Dalmatian snack food (anchovies, bruschetta, cheese, olives and more…). Great to simply chill from the hot sun and the DJ will provide café del mar tunes by night. QOpen 08:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:30, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PNB Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PBX Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-)091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions.

Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB

Richie Hawtin, Noa

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WHAT TO SEE

NIGHTLIFE Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.

QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B D o l c e V i t a C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana30455@gmail.com. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.

Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 01:30. PJNBXW Funky bar Rio C-4, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 809 83 44/(+385-) 098 940 06 01. Music is what makes this bar a hit attraction! Whether you’re a fan of funk, disco, reggae or house music, you will love this place. Commercial music is out the door! Live bands or DJs are most often the source of entertainment plus homemade rakija and liqueurs that ought to get you in the ‘I wanna party all night’ mood.

QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PENXW Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20, agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica‘s history goes back to the 60‘s, and it has been one of Zadar‘s favourite bars ever since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as it‘s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself.

Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. NGBX Hitch bar Kolovare bb, tel. (+385-) 095 111 88 88, robert@hitch-bar.com, www.hitch-bar.com. Wanna dance till you drop, spruce on in to this popular night club with somewhat of a modern and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer‘s entertainment guide with theme nights, international DJs, and concerts by Croatian and international artists. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. PABW Kult C-3, Stomorica 6a. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.

QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51.

One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.

After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia‘s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNB Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. Closed Sun. PBX Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city‘s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael‘s, opposite. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. PNBX Yachting Bar G-5, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts. and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00. PNBW Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum‘n‘bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

PNBX Zadar In Your Pocket

Out of town Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+38553) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius. hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you‘re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. BKC Lavender Bed Bar Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, (Hotel Adriatic)sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd. com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music.

As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya. com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC Saturnus Zaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00. PLN

The Garden Club, Photo by Tim Ertl

Lounge bars Ledana Lounge bar D/E-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana.hr. Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‚icy‘ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where you can indulge in some live music and concerts. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PABW The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it‘s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30. JBW zadar.inyourpocket.com

Essential Zadar

Photo by Boris Kačan

City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the larg-

est on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens‘ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood.

The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‚67.

One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar‘s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them.

The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It‘s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It‘s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar‘s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat.

Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus‘ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto.

Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga.

Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library.

With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.

Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

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City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg.

Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.

Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20kn.

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar‘s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar‘s old newspaper presses.

St Anastasia‘s Cathedral (Katedrala sv.

Stošije) B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Roman-

esque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look.

Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.

St Donatus‘ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it‘s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus‘ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia.

It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The Musical Evenings in St Donatus‘”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

Photo by Tim Ertl

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WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE St Chrysogonus‘ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)

Churches When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable.

All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused admittance.

Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od „Kaštela“ (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green

park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city‘s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of

Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

Zadar In Your Pocket

The Sea Organ, Photo by Boris Kačan Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila

Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‚60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.

St Andrew‘s and St Peter the Elder‘s (Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića

Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew‘s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.

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C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery.

The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar‘s four patron saints were erected on the altar.

St Dimitri‘s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri‘s is an unusual example of Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in 1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the University‘s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences.

St Dominic‘s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3, Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar‘s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.

St Elias‘s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city‘s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city‘s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can‘t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.

St Francis‘s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)

A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68.

Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis‘s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks.

The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar‘s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00.

Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

St Laurence‘s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It‘s small and simple, but architecturally rich.

St Mary‘s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art

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Photo by Lili Zaneta (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum‘s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city‘s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless!

St Michael‘s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3, Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael‘s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.

St Nediljica‘s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3.

An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).

St Nicholas‘s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3.

The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close to St Francis‘. Remnants of a Romanesque bell tower lie in the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from the ravages of history - Napoleon‘s armies converted it into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged the exterior.

Barkajoli Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years. He‘s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians are a hardy lot. Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the barkajol, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn.

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WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE Statue of Petar Zoranić. On St Chrysogonus‘ square is

a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time - a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official.

Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?

The Captain‘s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.

The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren‘t exactly

Borik

St Simeon‘s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg

Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar‘s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).

St Thomas‘s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the corner of St Chrysongonus‘ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school, rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.

Landmarks Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara.

During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

Greeting to the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun‘ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.

Zadar In Your Pocket

thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it‘s really not all that morbid.

The Petar Zoranić Square D-3. Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon‘s Church and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.

The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world‘s first pipe organ that‘s played by the sea. It‘s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar‘s new pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea‘s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar‘s famous sunsets or

The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar‘s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.

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WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately for each department. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20kn.

The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-

23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar. hr. The museum is one of the city‘s newest attractions.

It‘s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia.

Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Admission 10 - 30kn.

Palaces Photo by Ivana Stanešić enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city. The project‘s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić, and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter engineered the organ itself.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr, www.amzd.hr. On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar‘s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements.

For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. QOpen 09:00 21:00. Admission 20 kn.

National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51.

The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the 19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace (see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the Zadar In Your Pocket

Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3, Medulićeva 2. Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the world. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. September 16 - June 14 Open 09:00 - 13:00, Wednesday 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and Sun. Admission 20kn.

Rector‘s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Together with the Deputy‘s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.

Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) D/C -3.

Near St Simeon‘s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.

Pa l a c e G r i s o g o n o - Vo v o ( Pa l a č a Grisogono - Vovo) D-3.

Anoth er palace near St Simeon‘s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.

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Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not

the city‘s oldest - that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia.

To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)

E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar‘s biggest park lies on top of the city‘s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate.

It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him - against his wishes.

Religious collection Church Collections from the Church of St Elijah the Prophet (Zbirka crkve sv. Proroka Ilije) B-3,

Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 10 14. A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an etching technique.

QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission 10kn.

examples of the work of Zadar‘s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint‘s life and the city‘s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th.

Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:00. Q Open May - October 17:00 - 19:00.

The Monaster y Museum of St. Mihovil‘s, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca) D-3,

Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20. There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it‘s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis‘ Monastery (Riznica samostana sv. Frane) A/B-3, Trg sv. Frane

1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.

Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) B-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/

(+385-23) 25 48 20. If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It‘s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary‘s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.

Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Admission 5 - 20kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv.

Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it‘s one of the finest zadar.inyourpocket.com

Greeting to the Sun Photo by Tim Ertl

The First Croatian University

By St Dominic‘s church stands an attractive old white stone building, part of the Dominican monastery complex, with a plaque proclaiming its pride in being the first site of a University on Croatian soil. Established in 1396 by the Dominican monks, this puts Zadar up there with famous seats of learning such as Cambridge and Barcelona (1303), Heidelberg (1385), Charles University Prague (1348), (but not quite so old as Padova (1222) and Paris (1229). Zadar‘s University focuses on humanities, and one can‘t help envying those students: one look at the yellow Faculty on the Riva shows you that there are worse places to be than by the sea…

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SPORT

GETTING AROUND Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00 - 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which privilege an equally varied array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn to 40kn for a 5km trip. Your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

Trains

Horse riding

Sailing

Konjički centar Libertas Zaton Holliday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas. hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - October Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www. euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 30, office@jkuskok.hr, www.jkuskok.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

Nautical supplies Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 68. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 24. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 58. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 53 98. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Rafting In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful green-blue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride.

Bora Tours F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, info@boratours.hr, www.boratours.hr. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 19:00. A

Looking for more? Just click! zadar.inyourpocket.com Zadar In Your Pocket

Scuba Diving “Under the seeea... under the seeea... there‘ll be no accusations, just friendly crustaceans...” Homer Simpson.

Homer knew what he was talking about, it‘s another world down there, where you can forget your troubles. The Adriatic, one of the cleanest seas in Europe, is perfect for learning to dive and getting acquainted with the watery underworld.

Here‘s where you can do it.

Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, 099 353 47 83, info@ albamaris.hr, www.albamaris.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Scuba Adriatic M-3, Zaton Holiday Resor t, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@ scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Zlatna luka Marina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.diving-zlatnaluka.net. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. N

Windsurfing Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www. surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

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Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr The train station is right next to the bus station. Zadar is not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by rail. There are two direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train services to Split - don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus.

Ticket prices are similar to those of buses. The ticket office is open 07:15 - 14:40. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German pages and a search facility. For international services, it connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.

Buses Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel.

(+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www.autobusni-kolodvor.com. The bus station is on the crossroads just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass.

The general ticket office is open 05:30 - 22:00.

Ferries Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.

Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www. miatours.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:30. A

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SHOPPING

GETTING AROUND Airport

Shopping centres

Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,

City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P Supernova centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.

tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www. zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun according to flight scedule and also 90 mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.

Art Galleries Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bambola C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Buža D-3, Mihovila Klaića 4. As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Laudato D-3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, laudato@laudato.hr, www. laudato.hr. Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098 975 76 61/(+385-) 095 909 67 63. Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Car Rental Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/

(+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www. avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@ subrosa.hr. Also at Zadar airport, Open 08:00 - 20:00.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Lulić F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr.

Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36 30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Oryx B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, www.oryx-rent.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+38523) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com. hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www. terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Rent a bike Zadar‘s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands‘ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it‘s not too mountainous and there‘s plenty to see and do.

See “Zadar County” for more info on all of these, or call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16 , www.zadar.hr.

Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www. calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Mondena travel B-2,3, Mate Karamana 2, tel. (+38523) 31 37 47/(+385-) 098 65 47 02, info@mondenatravel.hr, www.mondenatravel.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. N

Zadar In Your Pocket

Travel agencies Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www.terratravel.hr. Rafting,sailing, bungee jumping, rent a bike...

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Bookshops Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Closed Sun. A

VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00

Parking

- 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and September, 08:00 -22:00 every day except Sundays at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From October 1 to April 30, 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00 and not Sun, charges are as follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

Text Message Parking. Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone 3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone).

Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

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Delicatessen shop The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sun-baked terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many

The Swedish royal couple Carl XVI Gustaf and his wife Silvia visited Zadar this April and our very own Antonja Gospic from the Museum of Ancient Glass made this special necklace for the Royal Queen. restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying Paški sir. Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy. (And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a tastebud-tingling delicacy). Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread, butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of olives and a good glass of red wine.

Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria).

Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products. Smok’n meat is their treat! QOpen 07:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr.

Broad range of Croatian wines at moderate prices. If you wish to sample wines from the Zadar area, then this is your primary place of residence. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Foreign newspapers

Pisano ispod slike

zadar.inyourpocket.com

For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Široka ulica (Kalelarga street C- 3).

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SHOPPING Gligora N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23)

31 33 96, info@gligora.com, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel. 70 07 30. Q Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr.

Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity.

Other groceries available too. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Mon 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00. N Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.

QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Vagabondo D-3, Špire Brusine 13. A large selection of wines from the Zadar County. Some of which are worth your attention. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J

Vitlov Chocolate

The Zadar National Museum Shop C-3, City Sentinel

(Narodni trg). Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum’s artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. J

Nature Corner

Sage

Bio svijet Ante Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-23) 40

Pag lace

Souvenirs Ancient Glass Museum’s shop D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www. mas-zadar.hr. Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.

QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

00 18, bio.svijet@optinet.hr, www.bio-svijet.hr.

Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar. It’s located opposite the bus station, ground floor of the shopping centre. Also at Široka ulica 11, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 34, Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A Jerkin K-2, Prilaz Fabijanića 34, tel. (+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89, jerkinbilje@ yahoo.com. Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures and natural cosmetics. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23 58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time.

Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. AN

Antiques A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. Jurja Barakovića Street, daily 09:00-14:00 and 15:00 -21:00.

Zadar In Your Pocket

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DIRECTORY

ZADAR COUNTY

Banks & Exchanges

Post

Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen

If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they‘re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 23 55, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-) 062 10 11 02, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 08, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July and August Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1a, tel. (+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Business connections HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire Brusine

16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr, www.hgk. hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce.

QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73, ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789 29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri

08:00 - 14:00.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71. Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V

Hospital Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23) 50 55 05, www.bolnica-zadar.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Interpreters & Translators Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99, acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Croatia Abroad Postcrads Croatia Abroad

3.10 kn 7.10 kn 1.60 kn 3.10 kn

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Vets Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32 36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com. hr, www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you‘ve brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations.

Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23) 31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar. com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95, www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Making the call

Islands Don‘t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar‘s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Ugljan & Pašman

You‘ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let‘s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here‘s the trick: dial the subscriber‘s sixor seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear.

National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you‘re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber‘s number.

Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber‘s number.

Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia‘s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber‘s number.

Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber‘s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Pharmacies Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat

07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6b, tel. (+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

zadar.inyourpocket.com

That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael‘s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island‘s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there‘s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you‘ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day‘s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you‘ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica bb, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, info@kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

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Pašman, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 21:00.

You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island‘s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it‘s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you‘ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there‘s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www.pasman.hr. Q Open 08:00 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.

Tkon Tourist Board Mulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, tz-opcine-tkon@zd.t-com.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Vir, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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ZADAR COUNTY Dugi otok Although it‘s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia‘s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from midJuly to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, Sestrunj fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun.

There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart‘s content - it‘s the best way to explore any island.

Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it‘s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

Dugi otok Tourist Board Obala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www. dugiotok.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

ZADAR COUNTY Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises.

Entrance ticket cost 200 - 1400kn depending on the size of the boat.

Iž This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž‘s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage.

The town‘s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you‘re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep.

It‘s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks. Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under

10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere.

The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you‘re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island‘s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit‘s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib‘s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

Silba Tourist Board Silba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.tzsilba.hr. Q Open 08:00 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Pag

Zadar In Your Pocket

Olib, Photo by Boris Kačan

Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It‘s not what you‘d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that‘s not necessarily a bad thing.

There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It‘s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water Pag lace has an exceptionall y high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It‘s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs

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The birth of blessed Virgin Mary in Benkovac lend a special flavour to the animals‘ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it‘s one of Croatia‘s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don‘t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island‘s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day‘s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia‘s most highly prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia‘s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town‘s most striking church, St Mary‘s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque

Fishing Lake Vransko is well-stocked and offers peaceful surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call into your local tourist office - take some ID with you.

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ZADAR COUNTY hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place.

The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.

Zaton Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zatonzd.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Nin

Dugi otok, Veli Rat, Photo by Ivana Stanešić Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants. In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia‘s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island‘s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools.

A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb‘s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia‘s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It‘s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds.

Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You‘ll need to walk the last bit. It‘s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@zd.t-com.hr, www. tzgpag.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Zaton This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards

Zadar In Your Pocket

the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton‘s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.

The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone‘s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment

... and Zadar created Basketball Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished players and passionate followers of basketball (here called košarka). Much as they love to follow the progress of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s best-known player – a mammoth statue in his image stands guard over the entrance to the Old Town, basketball held in meditative awe. He was the first European in the NBA. This June, the city (understandably) went crazy when Zadar beat Zagreb team Cibona to win the Croatian league for the first time in 19 years.

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Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell. The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona.

When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments. Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica‘, (11th Centur y) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple Sestrunj (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture. The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid‘ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect.

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Beaches

Dugi otok, Photo by Ivana Stanešić If you‘re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it‘s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east.

Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It‘s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles.

The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets.

Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas. If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons o f spor ts an d games going on, th e b each is huge and the water is shal low. For those interested in culture, Nin is one Photo by Ivana Stanešić of Croatia‘s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.

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Biograd, Photo by Ivana Stanešić The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you‘ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

We recommend that you visit: Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission 35kn.

The Nin Salt Works Museum and Shop Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64, 26 40 21. info@solananin.hr, www.solananin.hr. Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species). Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission 35kn Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica 2a, Žerava tel. (+385-23) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71.

Nin Tourist Board Trg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+38523) 26 52 47/(+385-23) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com. hr, www.nin.hr. Q June, September Open 08:00 - 20:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Biograd The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.

Croatia‘s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their terri tories b et ween th eir power bases - often smaller towns, since larger ci ties such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states.

Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important momen ts in Biograd‘s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Photo by Ivana Stanešić Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty. You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd‘s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built

Zadar In Your Pocket

ZADAR COUNTY the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125.

There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town‘s colourful and turbulent past. It‘s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com. Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia‘s best beaches, it‘s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there‘s an aquagun and a host of other amenities.

The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you‘ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind. Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You‘ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it‘s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it‘s perfect terrain for biking - it‘s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There‘s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It‘s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd‘s shores. There‘s an old lighthouse there and it‘s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.

Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

Biograd n/m Tourist Board Trg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzgbiograd.hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@ zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. Q Open 08:00 20:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors all day which includes weekends. Entrance 10 - 20kn.

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Ancient Churches and Castles Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs. the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea, hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop to ancient buildings.

If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16 kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas‘s (Crkva svetog Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an ancient burial mound, it‘s easy to spot. When the Ottoman Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas was refortified again.

There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County.

Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians.

As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road, then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It‘s about a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It‘s not advisable to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century, it‘s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag, guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag‘s barren landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač. The two are visible from each other, making one speculate what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route 106 from the Posedarje

Ugljan, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Dugi otok, Božana, Photo by Ivana Stanešić exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.

During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice‘s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the same name. You can reach this small town easily from the Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1.

There are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about 10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of town to the castle. The stately Velebit Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored. It‘s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took over. It

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Vir, Photo by Ivana Stanešić became a rural county district under the French in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin.

Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins.

There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there. You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac‘s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient, ruined, walled town.

Much of the town walls remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable.

Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came into the possession of the Templars‘ rivals, the Knights Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana‘s prior was wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of the town‘s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but

Zadar In Your Pocket

well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post.

Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing. Unfortunately, now a communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those described above are the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through the millennia.

Benkovac Tourist Board Ante Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+385-23) 68 18 34, www.tz-benkovac.hr.Q Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Climbing The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you‘re sold (or at least we are). There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers. One of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost. org for excellent pictures, information and advice.

Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad - Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/ (+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr. Q Open 06:00 - 20:30. 1-day ticket 30 - 50kn.

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Zadar In Your Pocket

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Ivana Danila

Jakše Ćuke

Crkva Gospe J. Bjankin ija od Zdravlja Church of Our Lady of Health

ića

A. Paravije

Luke Jelića

Trg 3

Pr

ara

Prok. Grgura

I. Brčića Carinarnica Customs house

bun

še

no avdo

Šimuna Kožičića Benje

Arsenal

A KRA

Jurja Barakovića

Hotel Bastion

Lučka Kapetanija Harbourmasters' office

Muzej grada The City Museum

Bošnjaka

na

JAZINE OBAL

Zlatarska

Mateja Poljana Natka Nodila

Muzej antičkog stakla The Museum of Ancient Glass

zadar skih p obun a

M Dalm atice atin ske

s

Mate Karamana

r zada

na

Dalmatinskog

em i Bed

obu kih p

Poljana Pape Aleksandra III.

LIB

Barkajoli

Bedemi

Morska vrata (Vrata sv. Krševana) Sea Gate (St Chrysogonus’ Gate)

đma

BRAN IMIRA

Kr e

BALA

A KN EZA

Veslački klub Rowing club

Most Bridge

KA O URNS

e Tu

Veslačk a

I. Ma

R.J.Katalinića

Marina Yacht Club Service

St. Voštarnica

Brkanovića

OBALA KNEZA TRPIMIRA

ića

S. Radića

a trović

UVALA VRULJE

Frane Alfirev

B. J. Jelačić a

I. Meš

Maraska Park

J. J. Stro

Brodarska

IV.

Sveučilište University

r

a

n

d

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k

o

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i

a

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i

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the best place for shopping, food and fun located at the gateway to Zagreb: A2, A3, A1