Split In Your Pocket No8

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Contents

Split Summer 2015

History in spades

Ten reasons to dig Croatian archeology

Step out of Split for that quick getaway

Makarska Riviera, Dalmatian Zagora, Kaštela

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Summer 2015

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Foreword

2 Split In Your Pocket

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

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A rapid round-up and summer editorial

Arrival & Getting Around

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From tour guides and rentals to busses and fairies

City Basics 14 What you ought to know

Culture & Events

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Festival flair, musical treats

Archaeological Treasury

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Ten Croatian archeologial destinations

Split Pulse

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When in Split, do as the Splićani do

Restaurants 27 Nothing fishy about this

Local Flavour

Sveti Petar, photo by Rikardo Skorlic Explore the beauty of Makarska! Swim in one of Croatia’s most beautiful beaches. See page 70.

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Mediterranean herbs and spices to spruce

Sightseeing

Coffee & Cakes

Snap, camera, action

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Dalmatian Zagora 61

Sweet tooth pit stops

Nightlife When you just gotta boogie

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Run to the hills

Split Surroundings

63 Step away from the masses for some perfect getaways

Makarska Riviera

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Beaches and bars

Leisure 83 For those wanting to chill and for those seeking a thrill Shopping

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Take home the best memoires and souvenirs

Hotels

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Where to stay

Maps City centre map City map County map

55 56-58 59

Dalmatian delicacies to awaken the senses. See page 36.

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Foreword Split is a summer hit with thousands of tourists flocking to this Adriatic seaside city. In recent years, the awakening of newly opened restaurants, wine bars, new events, exhibits, concerts and open air festivals have reinvigorated these ancient city walls. Speaking of open air festivals, ‘Ultra’ is set to break all records with world class DJs hallowing electronic stages. Browse through our guide and within the Split Pulse discover what ‘Splićani’ (locals) value as they give away city secrets that only they know. The Restaurants section takes you on a culinary journey of top notch places to wine and dine. Learn about the practice of marenda, a type of brunch and how it is essential to every Dalmatian man.

We’ve prepared a special article on archaeological tourism for all history buffs. A notable mention goes to Split’s surroundings which include Dalmatian Zagora, the Makarska Riviera and the breath-taking islands that ought to win you over with their untouched natural beauty and traditions.

Without further due, the IYP crew wishes you a sensational summer sizzler!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Split In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Assistant Eli Gajinov Design Petar Mudnić Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Phil Newman, At the Helm Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com

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Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4 Split In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our new website puts you in total control of our content on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line RijekaSplit-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@ jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 - 24:00.

July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula.QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00.

MSC Krstarenja SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja. com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:15.

Split Tourist Board Archives

By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes. Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

6 Split In Your Pocket

Split Tours Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and HvarAncona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).QD3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. A

By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

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Arrival & Getting Around Tourist information Tourist Information Centre QD-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, info@visitsplit.com, www. visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Tourist Information Centre QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@ visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia

and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

BY PLANE Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.

Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.

Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Plesoprijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Plesoprijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, informacije@ split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.

Brač Airport Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer.QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00.

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Arrival & Getting Around QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

Split Tourist Board Archives

european coastal airlines seaports Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​ Seaside Airport Resnik QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10, resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

Seaside Airport Jelsa Q ​ Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Rab QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu Seaside Airport Pula

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at 22:06, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101,00kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, informacije@ hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr.PUBLIC TRANSPORT

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops.

10 Split In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

For a day your way

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Arrival & Getting Around City Basics

Split Tourist Board Archives

Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split.

Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.

Promet SplitQE-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, info@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

Taxi The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 12 Split In Your Pocket

18kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 2.5kn added per each piece of luggage and 50kn per hour for waiting.

There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

PARKING There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/ hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 06:30 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first split.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting CityAround Basics hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split QD-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@ promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

SMS PARKING There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile).

A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car.

Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 750 - 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.

TRAVEL Agencies Adriatic Travel QD-3, Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-21) 49 01 30/(+385-21) 49 01 29, info@adriatic-travel.hr, www.adriatic-travel. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

We connect Croatia European Coastal Airlines redefines your journey in the air by providing fast daily scheduled connections to the most magnificent islands in the Adriatic. You are invited to explore stunning coastlines and the beautifully preserved centuries old harbour towns Croatia has to offer from an entirely new perspective. Whether traveling for business or pleasure, ECA will provide an experience worth remembering.

www.ec-air.eu

F-tours putovanja QD-2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr. Open 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo QJ-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22 33, info@ galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Split Walking Tour QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, info@ splitwalkingtour.com, www.splitwalkingtour.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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City CityBasics Basics CUSTOMS

VISAS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1st 2013, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return.

For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/ embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

DISABLED TRAVELERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

PUBLIC TOILETS When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50€.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

14 Split In Your Pocket

Photo by Marša Gajinov

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City Culture City & Basics Events Basics

Othello - Splitsko ljeto Archives

EXHIBITIONS 05.05 Tuesday - 31.08 Monday Lloyd pictographs This exhibition presents cruise trips made by two Lloyd Steamships which took place in the 1930s along the Mediterranean. Photo negatives are presented on LED displays which reflect on the staggering pictures of luxurious early 20th century cruise ships where attention was paid to every detail.QK-2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), hpms@hpms.hr, www. hpms.hr.

09.05 Saturday - 20.09 Sunday Rodin’s Meditation in Split What started a long time ago has finally been realised now.

Auguste Rodin’s Meditation is one of the most well-known sculpts of all time, in fact it inspired Croatia’s very own Ivan Meštrović in making his Psyche, in 1927. Meštrović even requested Rodin to send him the plaster cast but due to war and Rodin’s death, it was not meant to be, till now.

QB-3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.

JUNE Muzikalije – Exhibition, from the collection of the Split City Museum Few can argue that Split is Croatia’s music capital with its long and rich culture. The exhibited music collection presents material on Split’s musical life from the period between the 18th and 20th century with manuscripts, early publications and world rarities on hand. This is why Split is a hit!QJ-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, muzejgrada-st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

JUNE - AUGUST Significant artists from the Jarak Collection of the Varaždin City Museum The exhibition will present an extraordinary selection of works by the most prominent Croatian artists such as Ivo Dulčić, Vasilije Jordan and Edo Murtić which were donated to the Varaždin City Museum by the priest and Ph. D. Božo Vjeko Jarak which includes paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures. Landscapes, still lives and religious themes are of prominence here.QJ-2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, info@galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com.

10.06 Wednesday - 10.07 Friday Dubravka Rakoci - June in Split She is the artist of colour and light; Rakoci plays with variations of coloured light in any given space by using a monochrome circle and in turn using the perimeter of the gallery as a fluid surface. Natural light also beams onto exhibited gallery panels giving viewers an aura of colours and an experience of spatial reality.QJ-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, galerija.kula@gmail.com, www. galerija-kula.hr.

16.06 Tuesday - 30.06 Tuesday Andrea Musa A truly wonderful exhibition by the award winning German-born Croatian artist Andrea Musa will include her amazing, colourful and vivid paintings. She has held numerous solo exhibitions and has represented Croatia at Biennials and more. Her art work represents a true celebration of life and is greatly influenced by her human Summer 2015

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Culture & Events experiences, nature, travel, a sense of longing, as well as film, literature and philosophy.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.

17.07 Friday - 31.07 Friday Friends of the Sea – Nineteen Hundred and Something Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert team will be held with 62 large format documentary photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.

Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

Split Film Festival 12.09 Saturday - 19.09 Saturday SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL - International Festival of New Film The jubilee 20th edition of the oldest international annual film event in Croatia starts in May with the marking of this important anniversary! Nineteen weeks before this year’s festival, the most significant films from the festivals past editions will be screened each Wednesday and Thursday at 20:00, at the Beton Cinema (Dom mladih, Ulica slobode 28). This will present a culmination of two decades of the festival and also give an overview of the most important developments on the international film scene due to the fact that since its very beginning, the festival has been open to all new, innovative, experimental and radical works of all lengths and genres. Dare we say, some have even become cult films! Among them is Kim Longinotto’s Shinjuku Boys which opens the celebration cycle on May 7, at 20:00 and it this screening that was shown at the first Split Film Festival in 1996. By the way, did someone say free entry to all screenings? Yes indeed! Further information of schedules and screenings can be found on the festival’s Facebook page and web page. And after counting down throughout the summer months this year’s jubilee 20th edition starts from September 12 and runs until September 19. As always, an attractive and uncompromising program waits, accompanied by a number of scintillating side events to twinkle every film buffs eyes.Qinfo@splitfilmfestival.hr, www. splitfilmfestival.hr.

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30.07 Thursday - 13.08 Thursday Yasna Skorup Krneta (Installations, objects, photos) Winner of many awards and having held numerous exhibitions of her art work at home and abroad, Krneta has always held Istria as a source of inspiration, which is especially noted in several of her cycles (Histria Poetica, Saga of Istria etc.) Last year she made headlines with her monumental installation ‘Chair Kravat’ at the entry of Opatija’s Villa Angiolina.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.

18.08 Tuesday - 01.09 Tuesday Sandra Radić Parać At this exhibition Parać presents her dreamlike paintings in which the blueness of the sky and the sea almost merge together, exploring the transition from reality into imaginary, conscious to subconscious, as if creating the imagery of a human soul with the stroke of a paint brush. Her paintings can easily be described as the big blue, almost fairytale-like.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www. hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.

28.08 Friday - 28.09 Monday Robert Šimrak - AI (Artificial Intelligence) AI refers to ‘Artificial Intelligence’ and the virtual world we live in has given Šimrak the stimulus for using sequences and patterns as created via 3D graphic programs for the creation of his paintings. Generating such virtual images in a large format has a powerful psychological effect on observers, driving them to adapt to the perception of a simulated environment.QJ-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, galerija.kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr.

03.09 Thursday - 17.09 Thursday Marc Riboud A photo exhibition by the renowned and award winning French photographer Marc Riboud. In 1953, Riboud made a breakthrough on the international scene with his photo of the Eiffel Tower that was published in ‘Life’ magazine. In his works, he documented world events during the 1950s and 1960s, from the Middle East, Soviet Union, and Algeria, and happened to be one of few photographers who managed to get into Vietnam.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.

01.10 Thursday - 01.11 Sunday Tadej Pogačar A contemporary Slovenian artist, curator and educator whose conceptual artwork is critical of institutions and raises social and political issues. He is especially famous for being the founder of the virtual organisation, ‘The P.A.R.A.S.I.T.E’ where his artistic concept of parasitism is in the natural environment and coincides with the transgressive form of the existence of culture.QJ-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, galerija.kula@gmail.com, www. galerija-kula.hr. split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Pokraj nje - FMFS Archives

SPECIAL EVENTS 05.06 Friday - 13.06 Saturday Split Mediterranean Film Festival For eight year straight, this festival of full-length and short film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider that screenings take place on the beach with the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket!QBačvice Summer Cinema (Preradovićevo šetalište 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Dioklecijanova 7) and Split Gallery of Fine Arts (Ulica kralja Tomislava 15), info@fmfs.hr, www.fmfs.hr.

15.06 Monday - 19.06 Friday IKS Festival The fourth edition of this highly regarded international festival of contemporary theatre will see an abundance of performances by a number of well-known European artists and authors. The festival opens with the fascinating Austrian theatre show ‘Talking Heads’, followed by an interactive French new media show ‘Hakanai’ and the Croatian-Italian coproduction ‘Troia Discount’ written by the provocative Italian duo Ricci/Forte. DJ Massimo Passante Max has the honour of closing the event. Stay tuned for line up details!Qwww.iksfestival.eu.

01.07 Wednesday - 02.07 Thursday A Sustipan Night’s Dream Sustipan Park will for the fourth year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism with retro/pop group Jinx and Amira Medunjanin.QC-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

03.07 Friday - 05.07 Sunday The Split festival Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music scene. Despite the glory days of the 70’s and 80’s long gone, the event has had some changes over the years but things are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names and draws the most attention.QI-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.

14.07 Tuesday - 14.08 Friday The 61st Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad.QVarious locations across Split, www.splitskoljeto.hr.

27.08 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday MAGfestival For the 6th year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery.QJ-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.com.

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Culture & Events CINEMAS Central QI-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 38 13, www.ekran.hr.

Cineplexx City Center one Split QF-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, kino@cineplexx.hr, www.cineplexx.hr. Open 15:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:30.

CineStar QD-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.

Karaman QI-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www. ekran.hr.

Kinoteka Zlatna vrata QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 13 35, info@zlatnavrata.hr, www.zlatnavrata.hr.

Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice) QD-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August.

COUNTY EVENTS 04.07 Saturday - 25.07 Saturday Festival Dalmatian Klapa Omiš Established in 1966, this musical extravaganza featuring Croatian a cappella music is held annually in Omiš. Don’t miss out on the 49th Festival featuring all men or all women vocal groups, as well as mixed groups. These beautiful voices will leave you breathless!QOmiš, www.fdk.hr.

14.07 Tuesday - 18.07 Saturday Supetar Super Film Festival A festival of contemporary European documentary film with a programme of accompanying events, including concerts by leading Croatian bands and exhibitions and art workshops on themes related to the programme of films. The festival takes place five days.QSupetar, Brač.

18.07 Saturday S.A.R.S. – Sinj Amateur Rock Meetup The old town of Sinj in the Dalmatian hinterland is the setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia. Due to its popularity, it has grown into something much bigger with popular mainstream Croatian acts also performing. Side sparkles include book nights, film screenings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay tuned for line up details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.

18.07 Saturday - 19.07 Sunday World Music Festival Ethnoambient Salona The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Kries (Croatia), Domo Emigrantes (Italy), Dunja Knebl (Croatia), Kazan (Croatia), Jamo Jamo (Senegal, UK)...QGradina, Solin, ethnoambient@gmail. com, www.ethnoambient.net.

19.07 Sunday - 26.07 Sunday Vanka Regule A festival of outdoor adventure sports plus a film festival dedicated to adventure themes equals, with a sprinkling of photography equals fun for just about everyone. Sports featured include climbing, free ride biking, indo board, windsurfing, sailing, sea kayaking, slacklining, trail running and stand up paddling (which we didn’t think sounded very difficult until we saw the pictures).QSutivan, Brač, vanka.regule@st.t-com.hr, www.vankaregule.com.

25.07 Saturday - 31.07 Friday The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela.

07.08 Friday 2Cellos They are Croatia’s sensation, a double bass duo who after uploading their version of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal on You Tube have had over eleven million clicks.

QPjaca, Jelsa, Hvar island. Tickets 160 - 320kn.

09.08 Sunday Sinjska Alka The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interest-

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Culture & Events

Luciano

Ultra Europe Archives

Papaya

ingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the Alka competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www. visitsinj.com.

18.08 Tuesday The Pirate Battle of Omiš The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th century and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.” The role-playing battle describes the fight between the Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omiš, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omiš and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chanted the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port, Omiš. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Tiesto

SUMMER BEATS So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight.

We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north to south and will make sure you know the place, the date, and the headliners.

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds among the community in the era before mass media. That time has passed but the need to be a part of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you Summer 2015

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Culture & Events ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on dancing and living!

ZAGREB Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with the event of the season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.

ISTRIA & KVARNER We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.

NORTHERN DALMATIA So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.

From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and Felix Krocher.

Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.

From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia. For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell 20 Split In Your Pocket

soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th. For these few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.

CENTRAL DALMATIA Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson, and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .

SOUTHERN DALMATIA And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!

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Culture & Events

Utakmica Delmata i Rimljana - Photo by Branko Covic (Sinj Tourist Board Archives)

Archaeological Treasury A PRACTICAL GUIDE OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL DESTINATIONS by jonathan bousfield

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Summer 2015

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Archaeological Culture & EventsTreasury three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from Vukovar, a major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture (www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring these European ancestors to life with recreations of their dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.

Days of Diocletian Archives

Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations lying around in its major cities. Pula’s amphitheatre, Split’s Roman palace, Trogir’s cathedral and Dubrovnik’s walls are just four of the most obvious examples. What is perhaps less well known is the sheer multitude of archeological sites in the country, and the significant number of past cultures that have been discovered thanks to digs on Croatian soil. Sites such as Vela Spila in Korčula or Vučedol near Vukovar have greatly added to our knowledge of European prehistory; Vinkovci is considered to be one of the oldest continually-settled towns on the continent.

What follows is a list of archeological destinations that are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often one historical site will lead you on to the discovery of an equally interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide a spur to further exploration.

Zagreb and inland Croatia Krapina The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a state-of-theart museum that deploys film shows, multimedia displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves – but of human evolution in general. Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years ago, recent research has revealed that they lived alongside Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred with them too; which means that all of us probably still carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA. Vukovar One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old, 22 Split In Your Pocket

Andautonia So near to Zagreb and yet so frequently overlooked, the Andautonija Archeological Park (www.andautonia.com) displays the excavated remains of a Roman-era town in the middle of the village of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast of the capital. Although lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved temples, everything else you would expect from a Roman town is here, including remnants of shopping streets, bathhouse complexes and scraps of mosaic. The Archeological Museum in Zagreb organizes a string of summer events at the park which are aimed at families and children, with displays of ancient crafts, a change to sample Roman-era recipes, and a lot of dressing up in togas.

Vinkovci The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headlinegrabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before 6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum (www.muzejvk.hr), which includes a recreation of one of the dwellings. Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings has been reconstructed.

Zadar region Asseria Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times, becoming an important administrative and trading centre under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations.

It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development, with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired by Roman-era residential quarters. split.inyourpocket.com

Archaeological Culture &Treasury Events

A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the Zadar Archeological Museum (www.amzd.hr), particularly the pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation, is the place to learn more about Roman-era northern Dalmatia.

Šibenik region Burnum North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to have accommodated two entire legions. What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.

Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau high above the Krka gorge.

Split region

Salona - Photo by Nives Kocijan

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Salona Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years, most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beSummer 2015

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Archaeological Culture & EventsTreasury fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008 in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region

Days of Diocletian Archives

Narona Museum Archives

neath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.

It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of early-Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up in a toga. Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/ split-arheoloski/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium contains one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.

Stari Grad Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In

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Narona Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of how to display a historically significant archeological site while at the same time making it an entertaining place to bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper levels of the museum where display cases contain coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape. Narona was an important trading post on the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was purchased from locals by British archeologist Arthur Evans in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford.

Vela Spila, Vela Luka Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’, the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such, but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural Centre (www.czkvl.hr). split.inyourpocket.com

Culture Events Split& Pulse

Vedrana Ilić

We asked locals - who live or work in Split to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

with local ingredients and very affordable prices. You can't go wrong with anything you choose. Also, "DeBelly" has a very interesting seafood menu, for example the rolled sea bass fillet with prosciutto and chickpeas in sherry sauce, mmmm.

dr.art. Dina Jakšić

dr. sc. Ana Peraica

Jakšić Gallery

Art historian, Atelier Peraica

SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Dina: For a nightclub, certainly Judino Drvo, a very interesting space that offers an interesting and quality program.

SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Ana: Since I live and work inside Diocletian's Palace, which becomes overly hectic and crowded during the summer, I take every chance I can to get away from the city center. So my favorite places are bars located near the coast. I prefer the Western side for coffee and the Eastern side during the evenings, so that at every point I am turned to the sun.

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?

Dina: First Vidilica, it's a magical place!

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Dina: The Palace is the most valuable place to see in Split, so a walk through the city is the best way to discover the city with a recommendation not to forget to look up more often.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Dina: In this case, I would recommend our gallery because we offer original designs made using materials that surrounds us. Certainly supporting local producers who offer high-quality products in Split.

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Dina: One of the better restaurants in Split is "Mattoni" restaurant on Bačvice, they have a very interesting menu facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

SIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Split?

Ana: To me, Marjan hill is the most relaxing place in the city, since it offers a nice shadow.

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Ana: Walking around. You cannot get lost as every road leading downwards takes you back to the center and to the sea.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Ana: Well, Split is not yet the most brilliant place for shopping, although if I were a tourist, I would go to the secondhand market located near the City Park Đardin, just a bit north of the large sculpture. There are many antiquities and vintage items from the area sold at modest prices compared to other parts of Europe.

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Split Pulse Culture & Events SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Ana: There are not that many specialties in Dalmatia. Recipes are more or less similar to other Mediterranean countries. Still, food production, especially from family ranches, and fish, are of remarkable quality. So, just have a look at the market and fish market.

Luka BokavŠek Manager of Bokeria SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Luka: Coffee - Lvxor, the pjaca, the waterfront (coffee to go and sitting by the sea), the West Coast (F de Mar) Nightlife, Gaga summer SIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Split?

Luka: Vidilica, Hotel Marshal's terrace, all of the places by the sea (ACI, Zenta, Ovčice).

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Luka: A walk through the center (geto, the cellars, pazar (the market), peškarija (the fish market) , along the West Coast and climbing the stairs to Vidilica). A boat ride around the harbor and a little further out in order to see a wider image of the city from a distance.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Luka: Shopping at the malls, such as City Centre one, and souvenirs around the town. The most beautiful souvenirs are the wines, which you can buy at wine bars and kiosks/ shops/souvenir stores. Since wine adornes Dalmatia, and tourist souvenirs are not much different from a single city in the world, and we have nothing original.

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?

Luka: Black risotto, grilled fish, pašticada, gregade, homemade wine (quality!), brandy and fruit liqueurs, olive oil (usually virgin and flavored).

Vedrana Ilić Graduated stylist, fashion designer and blogger: mu-cephei.blogspot.com SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out on the town at night?

Vedrana: My favourite places to sip on fresh juice or eat a light breakfast are: Cafe Gallery, Cafe Fro, Café Perivoj and the Bistro No Stress. When the sun sets and evening comes, I prefer the restaurants Bokeria, Uje, Mazzgoon and 26 Split In Your Pocket

the newly opened Corto Maltese. All are located in the city centre! The tavern-restaurant Nikola is definitely the best fish restaurant nearby, and is located in Stobreč, a 10-minute drive from Split!

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?

Vedrana: In terms of wellness centres and spa programs, the best places to unwind are the Radisson and the Filomena Lifestyle Club. I personally take time out when going for a two-hour walk through the dense pine forest on the Marjan, close to the sea! Also, I highly recommend boat trips to nearby islands and beaches where you can literally anchor on the waterfront.

SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which activities do you recommend?

Vedrana: The best way to discover Split is by meeting the locals and taking the time to wander and discover the lovely and charming streets where you will find everything you need! If you are more of the unadventurous type, then you have no choice but to venture into one of the many travel agencies for more information.

SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Split?

Vedrana: For my part, I am more a fan of edible souvenirs; oils, wines, cookies, and authentic homemade local products like soaps, salves and natural cosmetics where their fragrance and aroma remind me of my visit and stay. And the city centre really has some great offers especially in the stores Uje and Delicije. What I love most is chocolate with Nin salt and flowers, spread figs, carob and rum, soaps with olive oil, fig cake with pine nuts, preserved sea fennel, the liquor ‘Hrvatski San’ or better still ‘Croatian dream,’ and some of the indispensable Dalmatian premium wines such as Barrique Tomić and the white wine Čara. If you do wish for a souvenir that is a little more expensive, then I do suggest the gold coin of the Emperor Diocletian in the jewellery store B Vama. For our shopaholics some of the tip top places include the ID concept store, Karla Stores for shoes and handbags, M Optics for glasses, the concept stores Get Get Get and Krug, and finally the Arterija Gallery.

SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?

Vedrana: When speaking of gastronomic specialties in Split, I would definitely recommend; saur (traditionally marinated fish), sipu s bobom (cuttlefish with broad beans), slane srdele (anchovies), pašticada s njokima (beef stewed in red wine and prunes with gnocchi), soparnik (savoury pie with a filling of Swiss chard, onions and parsley), brujet (a seafood stew), gregada (fish stew) and rožata (crème caramel) for dessert. Go to Luke’s for the best ice-cream in town!

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Culture & Events Restaurants

Zinfandel’s Archives

One of the best things in life for many are the places where you can drink and eat well. Diocletian's City has finally woken up in gastronomy. All those who favor Food & Beverages (iće & piće) have the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns.

EDITOR’S PICKS Paradigma This modern restaurant, which features Mediterranean dishes, offers contemporary Dalmatian cuisine made with a flair. By using local flavours mixed with fresh ingredients inspired from Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain, they have revolutionized gastronomy in Split. They offer exquisitely presented seashells, fish and meat with seasonal vegetables. Sip from a bottle of local or international wine from a Connoisseur's List of the finest high-quality old and new world wines while overlooking the crystal blue waters and savouring a delicious meal from their private rooftop created in the shape of a cruise ship's bow. A simple and calm environment decorated in soft blue tones creates a relaxing atmosphere to dine in. They are striving for a Michelin star and are a proud member of Jeunes Restaurateurs d'Europe.QI-2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03, paradigma@paradox.hr, www. restoranparadigma.hr. Open 08:00 - 00:00. (90 - 350kn).

PTJAGBXW Pikulece For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels, octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche.

The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ-2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com, www.uje.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 150kn). PTJA6GBXW facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Zrno soli This restaurant has class written all over it. It is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round!QC-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli.split@gmail. com, www.zrnosoli.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (80 - 100kn).

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CROATIAN bajamonti Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in 1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.

Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate each of the tables based on the season and they also hold various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@ gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 00:00. (75 - 350kn). PTJAGBXW Dvor Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot for a delicious meal. Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts such as tiramisu and maraskina, made with cream chocolate and maraschino cherry liqueur.QE-3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13, dvor.split@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. (50 - 180kn).

PTA6LGBXW Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, Summer 2015

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Restaurants Culture & Events the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp.QD-3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22, grego.levante012@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60 130kn). PJ6NGBXW Ma:toni This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary twist.QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84 57, matoni.info@gmail.com, www.matoni.com. Open 12:30 - 23:30. Closed Mon. (60 - 120kn).

PTA6GBXW Tratorria Tinel Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course.QH-2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, tinelsplit@net.hr, www. trattoria-tinel.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

PA6GBXW Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ-2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn).

PJA6GBW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Villa Spiza Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh homemade food that is prepared right in front of you. This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal fresh ingredients.QI-2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152 12 49, ivanagamulin@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PTJ6NGBXW

international Aci Grašo With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+38521) 39 85 60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www. adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 125kn).

PAGBW Adriana It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced!QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 - 160kn).

PJAGBW Apetit Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetit-split.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 120kn). PJA6GW Bistro Toć Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma, is also available. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ-3/K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, bistrotoc@yahoo.com. Open 07:00 23:30. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW

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Culture & Events

Contemporary Mediterranean Rooftop Dining Dine on the deck in the heart of Split and indulge in Mediterranean fare with flair, inspired by Croatia, Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain.

Ulica Bana JelaÄ?ića 3, Split T: +385 (0)21 645 103 www.restoranparadigma.hr

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Restaurants Zagreb Pulse

Boban The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well.QE-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). PA6GBXW Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients are always fresh.QI-2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77, hello@bokeria.hr. Open 08:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (75 - 250kn).

PTJA6GBXW Brasserie on 7 Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking the Adriatic Sea, French gastronomy is combined with Croatian cuisine to create these delicious dishes. Spinach 30 Split In Your Pocket

and octopus salad, mussels, cheese platters, as well as tuna steak and the Catch of the Day fish are just some of the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 33, brasserieon7@gmail.com, www.brasserieon7.com.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. (60 - 180kn). PTJA6Gi BXW Cardo A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please.QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotelatrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAGi BXW Kadena Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer.QE-3, Ivana pl.

Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com.

Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (60 - 130kn).

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Restaurants Zagreb Pulse Le Monde Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It’s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit.QH-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).

PA6GBXW Marshal Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, try a delicious slice of cheesecake or rožata.QI-2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+38521) 30 80 60, booking@marmonthotel.com, www. marmonthotel.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (90 - 150kn).

PABW NoStress Bistro Located on the famous, Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots, adorning the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. A great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square, while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region, such as wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese or beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.

QI-2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88. Open 07:30 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). iJA6BXW

TAVERN

WINE BA R

OLIVE OIL TASTING

Zinfandel’s food & wine bar According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ-2, Marulićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, zinfandelsplit@gmail.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (65 - 130kn).

PJA6GBXW

seafood Mistral Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.

The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Zagreb Pulse ethnic Biser Orijenta Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.

QD-2, Bihaćka 2a/V, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76, www. biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn).

PABW Bistro Samurai Conveniently situated in the city centre and just across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, one can expect the complete Japanese experience in food, dining and culture.QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, otomako@hotmail.com, www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). PAGW Kebap & Meze bar Istah East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turkish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified!

Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turkish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini terrace.QC-1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40, info@istah.hr, www.istah.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 49kn).

PNGBXW Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split. Open 12:00 18:00. (80 - 200kn). TA6LBXW Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QI-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@ restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P6NGBW Posejdon Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer.

It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJA6GBW 32 Split In Your Pocket

Stellon Stelon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine.

The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer!QD-3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+38521) 48 92 00, davor_stellon@net.hr, www.restaurantstellon.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:30.

(45 - 145kn). PA6GBXW

pizza Galija The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portionsQI-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32. Open 09:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (43 - 150kn).

PA6GBXW Gušt You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right.

After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again.

There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+38521) 48 63 33. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (32 - 55kn).

PA6GW Lučica Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QC-2, Lučica 7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn).

PALGBXW Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88, konmaslina@net.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PJA6GBW Velo misto No 1 Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre thespians.QH-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77.

Open 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (32 - 140kn).

PAGBW

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fast food

Restaurants Zagreb Pulse

Bepa Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming fast food restaurant is the perfect spot to stop by for a quick meal. They serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish & chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelets.

To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a delicious piece of pie.QI-2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, bepasplit1@gmail.com, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. (30 - 100kn). PTi JA6GBXW Kantun Paulina Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. B Rizzo Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ (+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (8 - 20kn). NBW

street food The street food restaurant’s priority is that the food tastes good and some dishes are made using local products. They offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and vegetables to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but not least, you can eat a meal that is not that expensive.

Corto Maltese Freestyle Food Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in this great vintage chic atmosphere. Brick walls and a wooden bar create an Americani-like environment, juxtaposing the Mediterranean food made with a creative twist. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches.

Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone.QI-2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, info@ cortomaltese.rocks, www.cortomaltese.rocks. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (50 - 120kn).

PTJA6GBXW La Regina del Formaggio A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croatian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses, as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches.

QI-2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40 12, jelaska4@hotmail.com, www.reginadelformaggio. com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn).

PTJAGBXW facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Zagreb Pulse tian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages! The bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine and only minutes from the Riva. The owner is quite the connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied with various local delicacies.QK-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 380 39 66, domenico_split@yahoo.com.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. NGBW Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines. Representing the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They also have been mentioned in numerous national and international publications for their high-quality products and service.QI-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@ paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAGBXW

out of town

vegetarian Makrovega If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg… you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic.QI-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, makrovega108@gmail.com, www.makrovega.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. From September 15 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 60kn).

PNGBXW Up Café An ultra-modern, chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. This healthy cuisine, offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert, such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, taste great along with a Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:30. From September 15 Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. (15 - 45kn). PNGBXW

wine bars Klub gurmana i hedonista A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dalma34 Split In Your Pocket

Baletna škola Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.

Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, info@restoran-baletnaskola.com, www.restoran-baletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 100kn). PALGBXW Konoba Nikola A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+385-21) 32 62 35, sanjanikola.alo@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). PTA6Li GXW

marenda & bevanda If your travels take you to the coast, to the Dalmatian towns and cities, to Split especially. If you end up at some tavern and if you see that at one of the tables sits a group that at the same moment are talking loudly and are chewing a mouthful of delicious food, do not be afraid - they are only eating marenda (brunch)! split.inyourpocket.com

“Pr o TRG kur REP ati UBL ve ” IKE

Restaurants Zagreb Pulse

“Riv a”

fish restaurant SEA FOOD | CROATIAN WINES | MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

Trg Republike 1, Split bajamonti.split@gmail.com www.restoran-bajamonti.hr Marenda is not, what it may seem at first, just satisfying a person’s need for food. It is a whole lot more, a populations habit, which you need to see through a window. Because, when a group of friends gather together, in the early morning, and sit down at a table with a full plate, it is difficult to discern whether they have gathered for the delicacies, or if they made their way around the delicacies in order to make their conversation more comfortable and friendlier, so that they can return back to their jobs easier, which they fled, for marenda, for a moment. However, the modern age has changed everything, and we fear that brunch will be put to an end.

Marenda to Dalmatians is what five o’clock tea is to the English. The time you spend waiting for marenda you’re like a locked and loaded gun, whether you’re a first grader who likes to eat, or a mature man. Marenda time could pay tribute to the modern world in which we live. Marenda has always taken place somewhere between ten o’clock in the morning and noon. By ten, let alone by noon, the working class would have starved a hundred times, and when this hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this mealfrom tripe and pašta fažol (Dalmatian beans with pasta), to polpeta u šugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra usuvo (spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and fried sardines and even veal shank. Modern times, however, have moved the time of marenda. Today, there are less and less workers, the employed individual eats later and often eats alone, and there are less taverns and more restaurants.

Delicacies are, however, the same, and tripe and fažol, and facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

polpete u šugu and minestrone usuvo, and boiled meat and fried sardines, as well as veal shanks. Is marenda threatened to become extinct, when it is not protected as an intangible UNESCO good!?

Darko Barteić, eater and hedonist, overall connoisseur of food and wine, the author of “Plavuše bez kostiju” and a blue fish cook, which is largely eaten at marenda, is still not fearful even if everything is changing. Because, he says, the time to have marenda is important, but the marenda spirit is even more important! Marenda is not only about eating, marenda is about socializing. It’s a group that binds a lot more than just food. The group is held together in a wondrous, intimate, and almost conspiratorial way, a group that has a sense of humor, the same joke, and with all that also loves rustic and homemade food. And if that is the case, then Baretić is right when he says that marenda can occur in spite of everything and at any hour, at the crack of dawn, as well as at midnight.

- The marenda spirit implies openness, socializing goodness. If you’re not a good person, people will not have brunch with you. Only a good person can have marenda - says Baretić.

And that’s the truth, and the most important thing you need to know about marenda. Only a good person can and knows how to have brunch. If you are this type do not hesitate when you see in a tavern a group which is enjoying their meal. In fact, they themselves will recognize in you that goodness and openness and good food, and will embrace you as their own. So that there is tripe and pašta fažol, polpeta u šugu and manistra usuvo, boiled meat and fried Summer 2015

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Restaurants sardines, and even veal shank.

And when you’ve already left for marenda, it is quite possible, if not mandatory, that along with your meal you will drink a bevanda. Yes, maybe some will think that mixing wine and water is blasphemy and a sin, but it is an ancient custom for farmers to dilute wine to quench their thirst.

Today individuals know much more about good wine and they try not to dilute it as much. But, after marenda if you want to explore the cities and towns of Dalmatia, in the sun, it is not wise to drink strong Dalmation wine. Drink bevanda and everything will seem different, better. Since, bevanda is also a part of Dalmatian “five o’clock tea.” However, here we simply call it - marenda! By Siniša Pavić Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23, buffetfife@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (35 - 65kn). P6NGBXW Hvaranin To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn).

PAGBXW Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 140kn). PA6GBW Konoba Leut This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.QH-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn).

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Konoba Nevera Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish. QE-3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/(+385-) 099 501 74 85, www.konoba-nevera.com.

Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGBXW Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(30 - 150kn). PAGBW Oštarija u Viđakovi With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.

QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/ (+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn).

PA6GBXW Pimpinella A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more.QE-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella. hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn).

PA6EGBXW Šperun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings.

The daily special is often a good bet.QH-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99, damabanovic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 130kn). PJAGBW

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Restaurants

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Restaurants Local Flavour

food markets When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (pesh kah ria). Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas.

All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses, homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products.

Some of these market sellers have been feeding the 38 Split In Your Pocket

Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva.

You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket, they’re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants.

local dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market.

Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season.

Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhousegrown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Restaurants vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats.

These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious. A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude.

HUNGRY TRAVELLERS Tips for hungry travellers around the coastline Baškotin A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!

Benkovačka vara Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.

Cheese to please!

Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their very doorstep.

Have you ever eaten dormice?

Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

If in the village Vid… A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the mints!

Povitica Cheesecake A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).

Rab or Lošinj If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you not!

Show us some mussels Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!

Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!

The island of Ist, ist good!

Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majolino!

Try Pipi When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in our Shopping category!

Vis or Komiža bread?

A dilemma that’s been debated for centuries is best to be solved on the island of Vis. What’s so salty…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

What to have for breakfast…

Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.

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Local Flavour Restaurants END OF JULY / BEGINNING OF AUGUST The Soparnik Festival Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat between Split and Omiš for the 11th edition of this mouthwatering experience. This pie made of mangold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned between two layers of the simplest dough. Dating since the Turkish invasions in Croatia, this is such a popular dish that it has earned its own festival.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr.

16.08 SUNDAY Hrapačuša Night The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake. Some may point out that Hrapačuša is only made on Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. Her Hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb. Try Barica’s awardwinning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night.QDol, Brač island.

28.08 FRIDAY The Salsa and Šalša Festival What better way to spice up the hot summer days on the coastal town of Kaštel Štafilić than with a touch of hot passionate salsa dancing, combined with spicy salsa sauce, (šalša in Croatian) that is the epitome of every Mediterranean cuisine. Lively Cuban dance rhythm will accompany contestants who will compete in preparing original meals made of salsa tomato sauce, so make sure you join the locals and their guests for this wonderful event.QKaštel Štafilić, www.kastela-info.hr.

28.08 FRIDAY - 29.08 SATURDAY Wine Fair in Jelsa Fancy a glass or two! The gorgeous and always sunny island of Hvar is famous for its exceptional wines and the idyllic town of Jelsa is home to the island’s best wines and local specialties. The streets of Jelsa turn into a summer stage with dance, music and singing by popular klape vocals who foster traditional Dalmatian sound with their amazing a cappella singing.QJelsa, Hvar, www.tzjelsa.hr.

FOODIE’S GUIDE 01.06 MONDAY - 30.09 WEDNESDAY Kopačina Lamb Festival Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table - it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač island.

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05.09 SATURDAY Iz Solinskog lonca The gastronomic happening “From Solin’s Pot” sees people compete in preparing dishes based on local flour ground at a local watermill - the mlinica. Dishes include home-made pasta in meat sauces, breads and cakes. Carbs galore!QGašpina mlinica , Solin, www.solin-info.com.

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Local Flavour Restaurants

11.09 FRIDAY - 13.09 SUNDAY Days of Carob The magical and breath-taking island of Vis is the perfect setting for a tasting exhibition of numerous products made of carob, from rakija and cakes to souvenirs and various beverages. A demonstration of processing carob and the making of rakija will also be held.QKomiža, Vis, www. tz-komiza.hr.

OCTOBER Days of Varenik An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have been made on Brač for 2000 years - it was mentioned during Roman times. It’s made by boiling red wine down to a concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.QBrač island.

OCTOBER Dani bikle i Biklijada This inland town is home to a special dish, bikla, a combination of goats’ milk and young local wine. This is served along with other local specialties like frogs in parsley and snails. All kinds of old crafts and culture are exhibited and homemade produce is sold.QVrgorac, www.tzvrgorac. hr. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Become a wine connoisseur A sommelier's Jelena recommendations of which wines to tickle your taste buds!

Jako vino, Brač: Stina Pošip Majstor A white wine with a fuller body, exquisitely fruity in aroma. Very nice, well-balanced and kept in wooden barrels. An extract wine of exceptional elegance and a fine addition in general and in particular with seafood.

Tomić Bastijana, Hvar: Belec, Pošip & Bogdanuša A white wine in the blend of indigenous variety, very lovable to those with an aroma for flora. Very light thus fit for daily consummation. Mineral, slightly acidic and light in body. A great summer refreshment.

Skaramuča, Pelješac Dingač Skaramuča, top quality wine, medium-bodied, aged in wood, nicely rounded, extremely rich and fruity. Finely acidic and expressively harmonious. A strong and mature wine tendered well with venison or ham.

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Local Flavour Coffee & Cakes Fly-in Café Bar European Coastal Airlines - FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports Resnik, Rab, Jelsa. Everyone and not only passengers, are welcomed at the café to enjoy the beautiful surroundings, which will offer not only drinks, but snacks as well, such as sandwiches.Qwww.ec-air.eu.

Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, caffebargalerijasplit@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6NGBXW Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@ gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PGBXW

Ćakula Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting.

QD-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJABXW Favola A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It’s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow!QI-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

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Crème de la Crème Crème de la Crème is a patisserie which offers exquisite French-inspired desserts. They offer fantastic cakes, colourful macarons, delicious pastries and tarts, as well as cheesecake and tiramisu served with coffee, liqueurs and juices. They use only high-quality and fresh ingredients to make their desserts. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro details and everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet.

As well, their master barista makes the best speciality coffee in town. QI-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 23, www.cremedelacreme.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. October Open 08:00 - 22:00. PJAGBXW Kuća kolača Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach!QF-3, Ruđera Boškovića bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30.

Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. NGW Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself!QI-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30.

Closed Sun. NS split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Nightlife

The nightlife in Split is booming this time of year with Matejuška the favourite for young people ready for a night out; this is an area on the beachfront where crowds gather, chat and mingle along the stone walls whilst having a drink or two with friends. It's a typical ritual before hitting the town and venturing out to famous city bars, pubs and nightclubs. Just so you know, the party atmosphere never ends in the streets behind the Pjaca, the Geto or in Bačvice.

bars Clo bar Located away from central Split, on the main road leading towards Solin, this urban and modern bar is a great place for a night out. With neon lights vibrating throughout the place, they offer many exciting DJ filled nights with International artists. As well, it's a great place to sip a relaxing cup of coffee during the day.QF-2, Domovinskog rata 104b, tel. (+385-) 099 211 02 03, hello@clo.hr, www.clo. hr. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Ghetto Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ-2, Dosud 10. Open 09:00 - 02:00. PJ6ENBXW Library Bar Marcvs Marvlvs A beautiful wine and whiskey bar set in one of the city's most important landmarks, the birthplace of the father of Croatian literature, the 15th century poet Marko Marulić.

It's located right in front of the City Museum and only a minute away from Peristil. During summer, its offer also includes small tapas meals as well as entertainment theme nights such as tango nights or poetry evenings. Includes a terrace and separate smoking area.QD-3, Papalićeva 4, marvlvs@yahoo.com, www.marcvsmarvlvs.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJBXW Merita & Dino Merita & Dino squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There's plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness.QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P6NBXW

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Local Flavour Nightlife clubs Hedonist Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music genres so prepare to dance the night away.QE-3, Put Firula 53, tel. (+385-) 091 901 09 63, z_plenkovic40@ yahoo.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PABXW Hemingway Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door. This is Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, elvis.k@net.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PAGBXW

Voi’Sa Archives

Na kantunu Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you've picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu's real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it's also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6BXW Split Circus A very popular bar set at two locations depending on the season. During summer it is open at Dosud Street 6 and maintains a melancholy tone for chilling out and having a drink or two. Whilst the rest of the year it is located at Jadranska Street 1 where there is rockabilly, funk n jazz nights and live concerts on Tuesdays and Thursdays.QJ-2, Dosud 6, tel. (+385-) 097 782 43 27, split.circus2@gmail. com. Open 20:00 - 01:00. JW ST Riva Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, info.striva@gmail.com, www. st-riva.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

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Judino Drvo Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse this is the perfect place for a new club, as it’s located away from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from the ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and dingy space.QE-1, Kopilica 24, antonia.kuzmanic@gmail.com, www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.

PJAULEGXW O’Hara Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. QE-3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr.

Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. ABXW Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town.QC-2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 163 62 72, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 05:00. PAGBXW

casino platinum Located within 5* hotel "Atrium", very close to city center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside underground garage, money exchange office, bar lounge.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+38521) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00. PGXW split.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Sightseeing through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B-2/3.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

essential split Diocletian's Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian's palace has become the quintessential "living museum", as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as "the basement" was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it's been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.

QI/J-2.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia's second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It's the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split's Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor's tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian's rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian's victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ-2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It's well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH-2.

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Sightseeing Local Flavour museums Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC-2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus. hr, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 30kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka.

AQUARIUM split The largest aquarium in Croatia is located in Split!

With over 130 different fish species, including freshwater fish, turtles and crocodiles, it’s a treat to visit with your family or friends. They have a total of 22 aquariums containing various characteristic fish species from the Adriatic Sea, such as sharks, lobsters, muraena and many more.QObala pomoraca, Vranjic, tel. (+385-21) 24 71 15, info@aquariumsplit. com, www.aquariumsplit.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Tickets 50-75kn. Children under 4 free.

46 Split In Your Pocket

To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.

QK-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. June - July 31st Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. August May 31st Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sun by prior arrangement.

Admission 10 - 20kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.

QJ-3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split. hr. June - September 15th Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. September 16th - May 31st Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior arrangement.

Admission 10 - 15kn.

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@ mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30 Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoildays. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 15kn Children, 30kn Adults, 50kn Family. split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Coffee & Cakes

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+38521) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej@mhas-split.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@ st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. April - October 31st Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Split Gallery of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina Split) Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary exhibitions blending local and international artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience.

QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. June 15th - September 15th Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 - 50kn.

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Sightseeing Coffee & Cakes one day escape cruises The perfect package for tourists who are craving to see the best of the Adriatic Sea in one day! The highly recommended boat route encompasses Split - the Blue Cave - the Green Cave - Budikovac - Palmižana - Hvar - Split. One boat departs daily between May 10 until October 10 from the Split waterfront, leaving at 08:30 am. On the way to the island of Biševo dolphins often swim alongside the boat and if you happen to be lucky, have your camera ready! Once on the island, guests can visit and swim in the Blue Cave or Blue Grotto with its iridescent blue reflections, whilst Budikovac is a little (islet) near the island of Vis and it is there that visitors can find a sandy cove for swimming. Near to this is the island of Ravnik with its Green Cave, approximately 50 meters long with a 7 meter high entrance so that boats can enter. And just when you thought that this was all a dream, then comes Palmižana, a little village on the Pakleni islands where there are various specific restaurants and bars and here guests can use their free time for lunch and a swim. This is followed by a visit to the sunniest Croatian island of Hvar, upon returning to Split. The price is 115 Euros per person which includes: the crew, fuel, tickets to the Blue Cave, water and soft drinks on board, snorkelling gear (diving equipment), safety gear, and insurance. It should be emphasised that this is a long (100 nautical miles) trip and that the boat is large (13 meters) and equipped with both indoor and outdoor areas for passengers, inclduing toilet facilities which is very important as there is no toilet anywhere else, except in Palmižana. The return to Split is at around 19:00 - 19:30 pm. See the best that Croatia and Dalmatia have to offer in this glorious day trip, sure to be filled with picturesque memories. Info: Water Express daily cruises, tel.(+385-) 099 209 30 64, info@waterexpresstours.com, www.waterexpresstours.com

galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953).

Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@ galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June October 31st Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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Nightlife

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Sightseeing Nightlife

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.

QJ-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

church Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and September there will be no 11 0’clock mass.QJ2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.

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GRGUR NINSKI In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ-2.

BOOK PANORAMIC FLIGHTS The European Coastal Airlines offer the possibility of organizing a panoramic flight and charter flight on request.

Requests can be sent to sales@ec-air.eu. However, every regular European Coastal Air flight is panoramic as they fly at 500 - 800 meters and wherever you travel you’ll enjoy the view. split.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Nightlife diocletian From emperor to enigma

a – m– e – w–

Bribirska 10, 21000 Split +385 98 701 903 info@galerijajaksic.com www.galerijajaksic.com

By Jonathan Bousfield Few people are so central to the history of Split as the third-century Roman Emperor Diocletian (245-311). And yet it is surprising how little we know about the man. The narratives routinely trotted out by tourist publications are frequently based on a consensus of suppositions rather than hard facts. With new interpretations emerging in the wake of every archeological discovery, however, the sands of historical record are constantly shifting.

Diocletian’s status as founder of the city is celebrated every year in the Days of Diocletian (this year falling on August 16-19), when locals dressed as Diocletian and his retinue arrive by chariot to greet the crowds. Putting this threeday toga-party aside, however, there’s a surprising lack of a commercialized Diocletian cult in Split. If you’re looking for a Diocletian T-shirt, an imperial signet ring, or even a decent biography of Diocletian written in plain language and with nice pictures, you’ll be going home empty-handed.

Diocletian is thought to have born to humble parents in or near the city of Salona (next to present-day Solin just inland from Split), rising through the ranks of the army before being proclaimed Roman Emperor in 284. He reformed the Roman Empire by establishing the Tetrarchy (basically ‘rule by four’ – a system of divided sovereignty in which there were two emperors and two vice-emperors), then abdicated in 305, returning to the land of his birth.

The retirement palace he built on the Adriatic shore became the founding structure of present-day Split, its walled precincts re-used, adapted or plundered for their stone by subsequent generations, creating the core of the modern city.

We know a lot about Diocletian’s military victories and governmental reforms because they are described in detail by near-contemporary sources. The personal biography of the man is a much mistier affair – we can’t say with any certainty where he was born, why he retired, or precisely how big his palace settlement actually was. Wandering around the palace precinct today, Diocletian’s heritage is ever present, but the man remains elusive.

The fact that the former palace area now forms the heart of a living city means that it is not a traditional archeological site with everything labeled for the visitor, making it difficult to extrapolate much about how Diocletian lived.

Things are compounded by the fact that none of Split’s museums provide a detailed picture of Diocletian’s era, and the visitor really has to tour the palace area, visit the City Museum and then trek out to the Archeological Museum in an attempt to piece together a picture of what third- and fourth-century Split was actually like.

It’s because the palace precinct remains a residential area that it’s unlikely that archeologists will ever be able to examine it in its entirety. The best opportunity to discover more about Diocletian’s life and times came in the 1950s facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

with the clearing of the palace basement, a substructure in the southern part of the palace precinct which is thought to mirror exactly the floor plan of the imperial apartments that once stood above. The reason why a basement exists beneath this part of the palace is believed to be because the ground beneath Diocletian’s planned living quarters dropped sharply towards the sea, so a set of foundations had to be built in order to raise the level of the ground floor.

The basement has since served as a film set for several scenes of the HBO series Game of Thrones; what it was used for during Diocletian’s time remains the subject of much conjecture. It was almost certainly used as a living space by the squatters who too over the palace following the fall of Salona in the seventh century. Once they moved up to ground level and started building their own dwellings from the palace masonry, the basement became a huge waste bin and shit hole, fed by the primitive toilets and inadequate drainage channels of the tenements above. When the petrified shit of medieval Split was finally cleared out of the basement by post-war archeologists, several tantalizing leftovers of the Diocletian era were revealed. A fragment of a porphyry sarcophagus, possibly Diocletian’s own, is nowadays on display in the lapidarium of the Archeology Museum. The City Museum displays a large menza or marble food table from which the emperor himself may once have eaten.

The popular view that Diocletian was a true-born Dalmatian who came home is plausible, if not exactly watertight.

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However there were many other reasons why Diocletian may have chosen to build his palace here – access to sulphurous springs, proximity to a big city like Salona, and most crucially, good maritime links and ease of seaborne escape. Construction on the palace began at least ten years before Diocletian’s abdication, which may indicate that it was initially envisaged as the seat of a ruling emperor rather than the retirement villa of a homesick pensioner.

Diocletian didn’t just reform the administration of the empire, he also reformed the ceremonial that surrounded the imperial court. The Emperor was henceforth considered a god from the moment of is accession, and people had to abase themselves when introduced into his presence.

The desire to build fabulous palaces was an outgrowth of this new culture of adoration, and the palace at Split was by no means the only one that Diocletian built. Diocletian wanted his imperial capital at Nicomedia to rival Rome, and large parts of the city were demolished to make way for his official residence. He also built a fortified palace in Antioch which, although no longer in existence, is thought to have resembled the one in Split.

It’s also an open question whether Diocletian’s palace really was just a palace, or part of an already existing settlement. The name Split derives from the Latin Spalatum, which in turn is a corruption of the Greek Aspalathos (which literally means hairy broom, the wiry, yellowflowered plant that covers this stretch of coast), and it is assumed that the Greeks got here before Diocletian did.

Stone fragments of a well found at the entrance to the palace basement predate Diocletian’s time by several centuries. The recent renovation of the Split waterfront revealed wooden beams confirmed the existence of a port here in the pre-Roman era. It’s entirely possible that Diocletian demolished parts of an existing settlement in order to make room for his palace, much in the same manner as Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, who cleared large parts of downtown Bucharest to make way for the brand-new Centru Civic in the 1980s.

Although we know a great deal about the shape and function of Diocletian’s palace (imperial apartments in the south, accommodation for guards and servants in the north), the question of what lay immediately outside the palace walls remains the subject of much fervent debate.

Recent excavations have suggested the existence of a hippodrome just outside the palace, and an amphitheatre (or at the very least a theatre) just inland. This might mean that the palace was not just an imperial retirement home but a much bigger settlement comprising entertainment facilities: ‘some kind of Roman-era Las Vegas’, the Croatian magazine Globus suggested in April 2014. The idea that Diocletian’s Split was a resort seems to be a backward 52 Split In Your Pocket

projection of our present-day preoccupation with the travel and entertainment industries. However it’s certainly plausible that Diocletian’s settlement was more than just a palace and served a wider purpose. It is possible that the retired empire was still an important player on the imperial chessboard, making his palace a political centre of some importance rather than a residence designed to keep the old man out of the way.

Ultimately there’s a huge amount of ambiguity about Diocletian’s role as local hero or imperial villain. Sure, he built a palace here, but he also presided over the last, greatest persecution of Christians in the annals of imperial Rome.

And in a solidly Catholic city like Split, Diocletian’s heritage can never be regarded as something entirely positive. The patron saint of the city is after all St Domnius (Sveti Dujam), the third-century bishop of Salona who was decapitated in the city’s amphitheatre on Diocletian’s orders in 304 AD. St Domnius’s feast day is marked on May 7th with church processions and a city-wide fair – an annual celebration of the fact that Diocletian did not end up on the winning side.

In a very real sense central Split is both a monument to Diocletian and also a solemn shrine to those he had executed. The early-medieval Christian civilization that took over Diocletian’s palace engaged in a deliberate attempt to demonstrate its mastery over the emperor’s pagan heritage. Diocletian’s mausoleum became the Cathedral of St Domnius. One of the cathedral’s most famous altars (carved by Croatian Renaissance master Juraj Dalmatinac) altar honours St Anastasius the Fuller, a Salona Christian who was thrown into the sea with a stone around his neck.

The crypt of the cathedral, formerly a shrine to Mithras, was rededicated to another of Diocletian’s martyrs, St Lucy. Diocletian’s sarcophagus, which once rested in the mausoleum, is assumed to have been thrown into the growing shit pile in the palace basement.

Diocletian shares the fate of many Roman emperors in the sense that there are so few reliable likenesses of him that we can’t really be sure what he looked like. Busts of Diocletian may well have been destroyed because of his status as a persecutor of Christians, and the only surviving likeness we can be sure of is a head of Diocletian belonging to the Istanbul Archeological Museum. It shows a bearded, rugged, resolute man, and rather like the images of emperors that appear on coins, it may well be a stock representation of imperial power rather than genuine portrait. Ultimately the most iconically recognizable character to emerge from Diocletian’s palace is not the emperor himself but the granite sphinx that crouches on the balustrade beside the cathedral. One of several that Diocletian had imported from Egypt, this is the only sphinx that survives in its complete form. Early Christians beheaded all of the others, as if the best way to get at the dead emperor was by decapitating his stone pets. For an emperor like Diocletian, a historical riddle that remains unanswered, maybe the sphinx is the most appropriate symbol of all. split.inyourpocket.com

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Dalmatian Shopping Zagora When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills', a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields') - but also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture.

The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheeprearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although the term conveys a positive sense of hardy selfreliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals' of their extensive hinterland.

Much of the Zagora's haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it's also an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth.

The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs' legs from Trilj. As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly soughtafter. There's also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple.

What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

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Ten must-visit places The Cetina Gorge Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.

Qwww.tz-omis.hr.

Drniš A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.

Imotski If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.

Knin A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww. tz-knin.hr.

Krka National Park With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.

Sinj A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracleworking icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in Summer 2015

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their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.Qwww. visitsinj.com.

Skradin Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.Qwww.skradin.hr.

Vrgorac Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and military captains (Vrgorac was on the border between the Venetian and Ottoman Empires) to serve as both living space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethno-village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.

Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.

Vrlika Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling 62 Split In Your Pocket

around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park.

The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.

Qwww.visitvrlika.com.

Zagvozd Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences.

Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.

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Shopping Split Surroundings North of Split Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me' of Split, it's a fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It's situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob's Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for producing olive oil.

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Marina Tourist Board QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, info@tzmarina.hr, www.tz-marina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir's old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city's old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke's pal-

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ace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir's history.

While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city's development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia's coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts.

After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great music, for a fun night out.

Trogir Tourist Board QTrg Ivana Pavla II / 1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, tzgtrogira@st.htnet.hr, www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:0020:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Kaštela

Čiovo Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since 64 Split In Your Pocket

Okrug Tourist Board QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21) 88 73 11, tzo.okrug@st.t-com.hr, www.tzo-okrug.hr.

Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela' (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing to (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilć). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings Shopping front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that's just the beginning. All are accessible by car.

KAŠTELA Tourist INFORMATION CENTRE QObala kralja Zvonimira 14, tel, Kaštel Stari (+385-21) 23 20 44, karmen@kastela-info.com, www.kastela-info. hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity's early history. According to the Bible, Paul's student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town's role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of "Croatia's Pompeii". Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town.

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Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost.

In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you're not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the bestkept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Solin Tourist Board QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, tz@solininfo.com, www.solin-info.com. Open 07:30 - 15:30.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Klis One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and

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Split Surroundings Shopping soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress.

Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century.

In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

Klis Tourist Board QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, tzo-klis@email.tcom.hr, www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

South of Split Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle and face some of the islands.

Podstrana Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit.

Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments from the different time periods. Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.

Podstrana Tourist Board QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@ tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:30 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 13:00.

Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a 66 Split In Your Pocket

quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has become known as "the Omiš Riviera." However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called "arrows", so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river. While it's true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there's still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš.

The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are located within the old city walls and include the church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churches are located outside of the old city walls and include the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (tvrđava) is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.

And when you're finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and it's history, the town's central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Omiš Tourist Board QTrg kneza Miroslava b.b., tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, info@tz-omis.hr, www.tz-omis.hr. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

Islands Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different story to tell.

Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys split.inyourpocket.com

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are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island's fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day's catch, which is then prepared for the evening's meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island's other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmos-

BOOK DAILY TRIP The European Coastal Airline offers daily trips. All you need to do is send your request to sales@ec-air.eu.

Since they have more or less a couple of flights a day to all their locations, passengers can go by a regularly scheduled line to Jelsa, stay all day on the island of Hvar, and return the same evening.

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phere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay.

Tourist Information Centre QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57, solta@solta.hr, www.visitsolta.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic's third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia's most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It's a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It's also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you'd prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač's north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip's Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.

Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what's listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač's highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don't have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle's suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca's ascetic architecture and splendid isolation.

Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.

If you are going to be on Brač for a week there's much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It's claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They're located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, info@supetar.hr, www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Split Surroundings vranjača cave The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round.

Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385) 098 74 90 00 for more information.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you're a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you're coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city.

See getting around section.

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns. Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offer70 Split In Your Pocket

ing a splendid view of below. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it's craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today's ferry port. Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you'll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they're completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ''Little Venice'' due to it's small bridges with which it is connected. On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja.

To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac.

You'll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. When you pass the tunnel you'll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali' (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island's eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša' and ‘Drenkuša' which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali' due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac' (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Stari Grad Tourist Board QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63, tzg-stari-grad@st.t-com.hr, www.stari-grad-faros.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. split.inyourpocket.com

Split Surroundings Hotels

Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav.

Also, don't miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito's cave above Podšpilja or the facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija' (Our Lady's Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of St Cyprian (Sv.Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below. The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn't be the marvel that it is.

Vis Tourist Board QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@ st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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Makarska Riviera Hotels

Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism. If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You'll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea. Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you'll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic. This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there's plenty of local wine. In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine.

Baška Voda Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, 72 Split In Your Pocket

in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.

With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children.

There's plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on. Baška Voda's ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront.

The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the latter named the town Aronia.

Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There's also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.

The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there's a large camp site. However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!

When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns.

They're also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica. split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Hotels Baška Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. June, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible. This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades. Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it's well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around.

Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges.

You'll find maps and information at the information centre that's also located there.

Brela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It's peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous - it's a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it's best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St George in the old hillside settlement.

Drvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Gradac When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we've come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there's Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

mounds you'll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language.

Gradac Tourist Board, gradac@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr. Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline 11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:30.

Makarska As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.

There's a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes, it's not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays. Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.

There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.

The city's roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today.

Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town's main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront you'll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip.

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Makarska Riviera Hotels Arriving on the Makarska Riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away.

The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer.

For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr.

To get to Makarska you'll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you're travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor. com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www. hznet.hr.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija. hr.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connectotaxi.com.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. They open one hour (two in July, August) before the ferry departures.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn per day per item.QAnte Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

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The church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.

What's more, it's well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You'll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum

Brela Tourist Board Archives

of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike. Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.

Makarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com.hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Podgora Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it's not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain. With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer - it's second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It's not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist's holy trinity.

This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Hotels dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora's inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance.

The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.

Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There's a choice of pebbly coves, and with a little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there's a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a critically endangered species.

Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks. There's a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking. Živogošće - Now we're 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.

Podgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www. tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tučepi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water.

Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You'll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers' Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi's olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century.

Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there's a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St Anthony's day (Tučepi's patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup. Tučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

(+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.

What to see Museums Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also a fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There's a lovely collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com, www.museum-gradac. com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.

Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Makarska's town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradskimuzej-makarska@st.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/makarska/ index.htm. Open 09:00 -13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

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Makarska Riviera Hotels brate fossils. There's also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world.

So, whether you're a budding biologist or a curious passerby, there's sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Makarska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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The Archaeological Museum Collection (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The nations that settled and passed through here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, toni.jurisic@net.hr. Open 10:00 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 8kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej) Baška Voda's Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.

QSrida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 5kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of inverte76 Split In Your Pocket

Gallery The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska's Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska's first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school.

Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska's cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@makarska. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. Admission free.

Churches Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Crkva Gospe od Ružarija) The slender bell tower of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923 and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It's not unlike the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th century, the church has stained glass windows added in 2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists. QIgrane, nr. Podgora.

Church of St Anthony of Padova (Crkva sv. Anutna Padovanskog) The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Hotels all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962 quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area. It's built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway, plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the frontage. The church's ceiling is painted with images of the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padova, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave.QSrida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51.

Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija) You'll find this little church and its belltower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront.

Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that he'd like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska.

Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika) At the end of the 19th century, a growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it's a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows.

The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in Venice in 1825. Mass: 07:30, Fri 19:00, Sun 11:00.QDonje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18.

St Mark's Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St Mark's Church marks Makarska's central square, the heart of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska's cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in Split, so nowadays St Mark's has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the development of the Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.

St Nicholas' Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the belltower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv.

Nikole 73, Baška Voda.

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The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home Summer 2015

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Makarska Riviera Hotels to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits of St Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions.

A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000 volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which, apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen Veža.QObala hrvatskih rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr.

Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 92 00, branko.brnas@gmail. com, www.samostan-zaostrog.com. Open by prior arrangement.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska's top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world.

The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr.

Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

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Kostanić's Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr.

Drvenik.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.

In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave split.inyourpocket.com

Makarska Riviera Hotels him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.QSt Peter's Peninsula, Makarska.

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu) Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.

Stone Tower (Kamena kula) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It's not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.

The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it's no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska's central square. His statue's plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument's creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia's greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, "Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples". This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn't go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.

Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

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Makarska Riviera Hotels fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It's privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun, Makarska.

The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska's Town Museum, and you'll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it's in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.

The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

The Seagull's Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.QPodgora.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma) A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark's Church featuring three lions' heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water 80 Split In Your Pocket

Sport With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory).

There's also an 8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fast-flowing Cetina river. And then, of course, there's the sea. You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing.

Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will be unforgettable.

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Makarska Riviera Hotels Makarska Riviera Beaches The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonderful beaches, some of which are several kilometres long. The beaches are usually shingle or pebble smoothed by the sea into rounded shapes which are comfortable to lie and walk on.

The white beaches fringed by thick pine forests and the refreshing crystal clear waters are among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera. Here are some of the best of the beaches.

Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse sand at the water's edge, making it ideal for children. It's backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon nap. This is the beach where you'll find the Rock of Brela sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked pines.

As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort of Brela, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire. Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at Živogošće, so this beach is a great place to keep your cool and take a refreshing dip on even the hottest day. Nearby Hotel Nimfa is a good place to find something to eat and drink, and has tennis courts, an open-air swimming pool and other leisure facilities.

Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist beach on the Makarska Riviera. It's located east of Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It's hidden by steep cliffs; to get to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine forest.

This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the freedom of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just as nature intended.

Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of small white pebbles stretches through the whole village of Mala Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for naturists. This is a spectacular spot where the mountains plunge right into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed shoreline. It's a great place to enjoy an evening stroll and watch the sun go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment on summer evenings. There's a small market where you can stock up on delicious, locally-grown fruit and vegetables.

Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer more intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The beach is well equipped with toilets and showers, there's a lifeguard on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of shade is available in the pine forest behind the beach.

Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open all night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for small vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the longest beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the most famous of the Makarska Riviera's shingle beaches. It's located just south of the little harbour. This is a scenic spot at the foot facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

of the mountains. Pine and olive provide shade, and there are plenty of sports facilities. There's a small naturist beach a short distance away.

The Biokovo Mountain Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from the coast, the experience of being on the Makarska shoreline would be much less of a thrill. That view is just so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels like the shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses, the mountain has protected and sustained humans for millennia, so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia. Biokovo is not a single mountain but a range of mountains that stretches from just above Brela almost to Igrane in the south, about 25km, about half of the Makarska Riviera. It's part of a larger system of mountains called the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long range that stretches along the Adriatic from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the south. The Dinaric Alps, as you might guess, are which is itself part of that famous range so beloved of chocoholics. The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the time when this was a flat sea, before tectonic movements sent the earth skywards. Limestone is a soft rock that is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is known as karst and is well known for having fascinating formations including caves and sinkholes where rivers dive underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti Jure, is 1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due to its geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity, almost all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park. It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including endemic and endangered species. The best known is the

Wind Surfing - Photo by RikardoSkorlic

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If you come across rafioli in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat consisting of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling.

Silvery Dwarf Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries the slopes of Biokovo provided a home to people seeking shelter from enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea.

In the 20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is a historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist.

So, while you're on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you, don't be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea. Take a trip into the Biokovo mountains - you'll be astonished by how much there is to see there. Apart from anything else, the views over the coast and islands are astonishing.

The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa - Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots.

The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water.

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Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centres: phone (+385-21) 62 51 36.

Gornja Brela Presentation Centre Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open to visitors by prior arrangement.

Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of Kotišina Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. Open by prior arrangement.

The Kotišina Botanical Garden This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (19201990), and is part of an educational trail he also created.

Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a heavy fall of rain. There's a 17th century fortress, a protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony's (20th C). Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly demanding walk. split.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Leisure Hotels plan your activities with our preview The problem with holidaying on the Adriatic coast isn’t so much as finding things to do, but rather with finding the time in which to do everything. Whether you’re enjoying a morning špica on Split’s Riva while watching the boats coming and going, or wandering the narrow streets of Diocletian’s city in search of afternoon repast, there’s always something else that you’re hoping to squeeze into your already-packed schedule. Restaurants, festivals, sailing and diving, beaches, and all of these before you even turn your attentions inland!

Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine and beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city that are suitable for families with children, to almost untouched open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure and nature lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the beaches are named Bene, Kašjuni and Kaštelet; locals will tell you that without doubt the most famous beach is Bačvice, where you can play the traditional home game picigin. The islands within the Split archipelago are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and have fun on the scenic beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the island of Brač. This picturesque beach has been declared the most beautiful beach in Croatia and it is unique in that it changes its shape and position, depending from where the wind blows. The island of Biševo on the south side hides the Porat Bay which is remotely visited as it can only be reached by boat. The bays around the little island Proizd, near Korčula, bare the unusual sight of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh salty aroma in the air! On the way to Makarska, visitors will come across a series of charming beaches, we simply have to highlight Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaža in Omiš, Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baška Voda. For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach we definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Osejava peninsula. Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline aficionados will find it tough to choose in what to do first with the abundant range of adventure activities on offer. The Omiš area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina canyon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari, trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the audacious adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari on the islands of Čiovo near Split. It is here that the new discipline of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also. The islands are best known for cycling tours, diving, and kayaking at sea. Bol on Brač is particularly known as a destination for kite and wind surfing.

The thrill is real we tell you!

Last but not least, for something more tranquil there are wellness centres with vast services including (massage, sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which can be found within the five star hotels and resorts which are in the vicinity of Split. So there's plenty to do from leisure to adventure, pick n choose and enjoy the cruise! facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Hotels Shopping

SHOPPING CENTRES & MALLS City Center one QF-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@ citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June 01 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Joker Centre QD-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09, marketing@joker.hr, www.joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

ART GALLERIES Atelier Mikulić Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QE-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@gmail.com, www.gallerymikulic.net.

Open by prior arrangement. N Jaman Young Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sailing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching artwork!QI-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jaman-art. com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A 84 Split In Your Pocket

Morić A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight into Croatian fine art!QJ-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Paparella Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps to small boat models…all decorated and created with a lot of love and taste.QJ-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 78 54 21, galerijapaparella@gmail.com. Open 09:00 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Studio Naranča Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love.

QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo. studionaranca@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

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Shopping Hotels JAkšić Gallery The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. The family trade was passed on from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Dina.QD-2, Bribirska 10, info@galerijajaksic.com, www. galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

CROATIAN DESIGN Get get get One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products.

The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented.QJ-2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr, www. getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Think Pink One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@ gmail.com, www.thinkpink.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00.

JA

DELICATESSEN Blato 1902 Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato 1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QE-2, Domovinskog rata 31, blato@blato1902.hr, www. blato1902.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

delicacies.QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.vinoteka.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD-3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+38521) 27 42 59, info@gligora.com, www.gligora.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. A Judita - gourmet & wine shop Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalmatian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00.

QJ-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje. hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Orao A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic proscioutto and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County which can be bought in whole pieces or have sliced.QD2, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Pipi Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, and especially the Dalmatian region.QD-2, P.I.Čajkovskog 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, www.dalmacijavino.hr.

Open 08:00 - 01:00.

Dobro jutro Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with customers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have fresh goats milk.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 1, tel. (+38521) 38 22 45, balinicedoo@gmail.com. Open 06:00 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.

Split Tea House Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.

Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable prices.QI-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Enoteka Terra A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic

Vinoteka Viola Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find and sample a wide range of superb wines that will surely deepen your

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Shopping Hotels love for vino!QD-2, Ulica Ivana Gundulića 36, tel. (+38521) 48 01 13, info@vinoteka-viola.com, www.vinotekaviola.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

SOUVENIRS Atelier Perajica This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift.

Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner, art theorist and critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool.

There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@ atelierperajica.com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dancing Bear Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 09, maloprodaja.split@dancingbear.hr, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 14:00. A Morpurgo Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured.QI-2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43, st.morpurgo@apm.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

specialty Havana Cigar Shop Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QI-2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@ havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

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Hotels Hotels SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

5 stars Atrium QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www. hotel-atrium.hr. 128 rooms (124 doubles €165 - 225, 4 suites €500). PZOHAR6UFLGKi DCW hhhhh

4 stars BEST WESTERN Art Hotel QD-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel. hr. 36 rooms (36 singles €99 - 125, 36 doubles €125 165). PHARUFLGBKDW hhhh Marmont QI-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel. com, www.marmonthotel.com. 22 rooms (21 doubles €340, 1 Presidential Suite €1050). PiARLGi BKXW hhhh Radisson Blu Resort QF-3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31, info.split@radissonblu.com, www. radissonblu.com/resort-split. 250 rooms (16 singles €155 - 215, 204 doubles €175 - 325, 17 Junior Suites €325 - 515, 8 Senior Suites €555 - 615, 3 Family Rooms €315 - 375, 2 Penthouse Suites €2000 - 2500). PTHAi R6UFLGBKDCwW hhhh Vestibul Palace QJ-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www. vestibulpalace.com. 7 rooms (5 doubles €395 - 495, 1 suite €840, 1 Junior Suite €650). PZTJALi GBKW hhhh facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

3 stars Adriana QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@hoteladriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. 15 rooms (2 singles €75 - 102, 11 doubles €102 - 142, 1 triple €123 - 163, 1 apartment €122 - 189). PJA6GBKXW hhh Bellevue QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue-split.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. 48 rooms (39 singles 470 - 600kn, 39 doubles 620 - 800kn, 6 triples 720 - 950kn, 3 apartments 820 - 1100kn). PALBKXW hhh Consul QD-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax (+38521) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelconsul.net. 19 rooms (4 singles 620kn, 9 doubles 850kn, 2 triples 990kn, 4 apartments 1200kn). PHALi GBKW hhh Dujam QE-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax (+38521) 27 30 81, info@hoteldujam.com, www.hoteldujam. com. 35 rooms (4 singles €61 - 68, 29 doubles €84 - 94, 2 apartments €100 - 113). PHALGKW hhh Kastel QI-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34 39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.com, www. kastelsplit.com. 10 rooms (1 single €115 - 125, 3 doubles €125 - 135, 1 triple €170 - 180, 2 apartments €210 - 220, 1 Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €125 135). PJAGW hhh

HOSTLEs Golly&Bossy QI-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.gollybossy.com. 87 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHAGBKW Silver Gate QD-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) 099 282 38 44, silvergatehostel@gmail.com, www. silvergatehostel.com. 26 dorm beds, 10 - 25€ per person. PJNGW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze QI-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@ splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm beds, 17 - 25€ per person. PNGW

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