Rijeka In Your Pocket No15

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2015

Kvarner Beachside action, relaxation and exploration Seaside Rock Why Rijeka will always be the alternative capital of Croatia

N°15 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

Introducing Rijeka

5

Sightseeing

6

The top getaways

City Basics 9

Health Tourism

A taste of where you’ve come

The cure for what ails you 10

Shopping

18

Hotels

When in Rijeka, do as Riječani

Places to stay for every pocket

Restaurants 20

Small features

Finger lickn good eateries

Rijeka Rock City Summer Beats The Blondes Without Bones

Local Flavour

25

Age old tradition

Coffee & Cakes

50 56

Shopping without hangovers

A pick n mix list to brighten your stay

Rijeka Pulse

34

Rijeka Surroundings 45

SOS! Have no fear, IYP is here

Culture & Events

30

All the sights you shouldn’t miss

Get to know our fair city

Arrival & Getting Around

Nightlife Music to your ears

The editor’s choice on what not to miss

30 Roses are red, violets are blue, cakes are sweet, coffee is too

58

10 16 28

Maps & Index Street index/ City center map City map Trsat map

60-61 62-63 64

Photo by Kvarner Tourist Board Archives Indulge in all of the finer things linked with the Kvarner area including scrumptious food and for a quick rundown take a peek at our Health Category.

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Foreword The city of Rijeka, which is known mostly as a port and industrial city, is slowly getting a facelift and gearing its services, which now more than ever includes the sea and its close vicinity, towards the everyday lives of the locals as well as its ever growing visitor numbers. Thus, whilst already having the image as the country’s ‘urban capital’ with a strong alternative rock scene part and parcel of the city, Rijeka now has social hot spots by the sea which are commonly associated with the Mediterranean. The city’s new look includes arranged beaches with top notch facilities and beach bars, and the Molo Longo promenade.

For the complete riječko iskustvo (Rijeka experience), we asked locals what it is that you should not miss while visiting. Our feature on local specialties and dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home.

In case you wish to escape the hustle of the city it is hugely advisable to visit the Kvarner islands or find shade in the lush green mountain region of Gorski kotar or Učka mountain. Either way, nature’s serenity is aplenty!

Speaking of nature, the entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become somewhat of a health destination due to its location and climate. A trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whilst also seeking specific medical treatments is rapidly growing. Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art clinics in all medical treatments that are second to none and highly recommended.

We hope you’ll enjoy reading about everything that Rijeka has to offer, making your stay your way!

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana Kovačić Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Assistant Eli Gajinov Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Lovro Boljat Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © First Love - Photo by Dražen Mimica Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Introducing Rijeka

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

A word of warning: if you’re travelling by car to Rijeka from Italy, you’ll have a tough time finding your way unless you have a satellite navigation system or know a few words of Italian. Italian road signs don’t show the name “Rijeka”, but “Fiume” - which means “river” in Italian. And guess what “rijeka” means in Croatian? River.

Why? Well, take the highway which traverses behind the city and you’ll come to a spectacular gorge through which the river Rječina runs. Travelling the main road into Rijeka itself, you’ll drive right along it. The Rječina was one of the reasons why this area was settled before Roman times both providing water for life and shelter for the ships of the Liburnians, an Illyrian tribe famed for their skills as sailors.

What’s harder to spot today is that the ground under Rijeka bubbles with underground springs. Water is absolutely central to the personality and existence of Rijeka - bright, refreshing, life-giving and always moving on.

Although there are traces of Stone Age inhabitation in the area, it was the Liburnians who built the first significant settlement on Trsat hill (or, as they called it, Tarsat), to defend their harbour from attack. The Romans drove out the Illyrians in the 13th century. Trsat ceased to be the most important settlement, as the Romans founded the town of “Tarsatica” on the land where Rijeka’s old centre now lies.

The area around St Vitus’ Cathedral was given the name Flumen Sancti Viti after the city’s patron saint.

In the 14th century, a powerful family of Croatian counts from Krk Island increased their power over the territories of the mainland. Later, this dynasty took the name Frankopan, and their influence can be seen everywhere around Rijeka - they built the shrine at Trsat, and many churches and fortifications on the coastline, as well as on Krk Island itself.

Over the centuries that followed, various European powers gained influence over Rijeka and its surroundings: the Austrians, French, Italians, Hungarians and Venetians - apart from the Croatians. Each left its mark. One of the most infacebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

fluential for the development of the city was the Austrian period. Much of the architecture of the city is reminiscent of Central Europe since it was built by the same people. Under the Hapsburgs, Rijeka was connected to Vienna and Budapest by road and rail, and proclaimed a free port. These transport links contributed massively to the development of Rijeka as an industrial city since second half of the 18th century. The city’s fortunes shifted as it changed hands, but after reintegration into Croatia after the Second World War, it became one of the driving forces of the economy and is now the third biggest city in the republic after Zagreb and Split.

Look over the Rijeka waterfront from a gull’s eye view on the ferryboat, and you’ll encounter a mass of cheeky winks from the shuttered windows of the buildings that line the quayside and clamber up the hills. Rijeka is a window onto the world not only for Croatia, but also for a huge part of Central Europe. Here, the Adriatic bites deep into the European landmass. The Austro-Hungarians turned this to their advantage, and founded one of the Empire’s busiest ports here. Shipping became the second stream of lifeblood for the city - the first, of course, is water itself.

Rijeka, exposed to the wide world for so many years now, is cosmopolitan in outlook and young in spirit - you can feel it as you walk along the elegant Korzo, get to know the history of the city, the forward-looking people and their culture. And it’s capital of Kvarner, which truly has so much to discover. Travel west, and see how the lush Opatija Riviera, dotted with fairytale villas reminds you of the Italian lakelands. Penetrate into the hinterland or head south along the coast road and see a chain of forts, the legacy of the local nobles. Discover the charms of the islands - each one so different, but all surrounded by sparkling sea and a climate that returns to you the life that the hectic pace we live by robs us of day by day.

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Arrival & Getting Around TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QD-2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, info@ visitRijeka.hr, www.visitRijeka.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. KVARNER INFO - THE GATEWAY TO THE ADRIATIC QČikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+38551) 62 88 88, info@kvarner.hr, www.kvarner.hr.

June 14 - September 20 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

ARRIVING BY BOAT An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service.QC-3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, ag.rijeka@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. October Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

JADROAGENT QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, travel@ jadroagent.hr, www.travel.jadroagent.hr. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. LOSINIA Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 30 40/(+385-51) 23 10 77, losinia@ losinia.hr, www.losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

RAPSKA PLOVIDBA Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports.

QHrvatskih branitelja domovinskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, rapska-plovidba@ri.t-com.hr, www. rapska-plovidba.hr.

6 Rijeka In Your Pocket

ARRIVING BY BUS Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: open 05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open 06:00 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

CENTRAL COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR RIJEKA) QC-2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 20 10/(+385-51) 66 06 60, info@autotrans.hr, www.autotrans.hr.

ARRIVING BY CAR From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.

From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica.

You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka.

From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 60kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.

From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.

Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need. Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, open 05:15 - 20:50. You can buy tickets on board out of hours, but it’s best to reserve in advance for international journeys. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around Changing money: There’s a cash machine en route to the Zagreb platform and 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers; 04:30 23:30, cost: 15 - 20kn per day. Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean. Public phones in front of the station and on platform 1.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051-if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other cab companies).

CENTRAL TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR RIJEKA) QA-2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44, informacije@hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr.

ARRIVING BY PLANE Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

RIJEKA AIRPORT QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40/(+38551) 84 12 22, information@rijeka-airport.hr, www.rijekaairport.hr.

EUROPEAN COASTAL AIRLINES SEAPORTS Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab. With these multiple flight connections throughout the Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded islands along the coastline.

At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up and running:​ QSeaside Airport Resnik Put Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50 10, resnik@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu.

QSeaside Airport Jelsa ​Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Rab Ivana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87, rab@ec-air. eu, www.ec-air.eu QSeaside Airport Pula Riva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport, have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport, where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course, online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket & Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić: Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are available at the docks.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.

AUTOTROLEJ QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, autotrolej@autotrolej.hr, www.autotrolej.hr.

POST MAIN POST OFFICE QD-2, Korzo 13, tel. (+385-51) 52 55 82. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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Arrival & Getting Around TAXI Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.

There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 - 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

AUTO TAXI RIJEKA QN-1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 099 700 30 43, taxitim.rijeka@gmail.com.

CAMMEO QR-3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 12 12 (press 3), inforijeka@taxi-cammeo.hr, www.taxi-cammeo.hr.

We connect Croatia

KVARNER TAXI Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

European Coastal Airlines redefines your journey in the air by providing fast daily scheduled connections to the most magnificent islands in the Adriatic. You are invited to explore stunning coastlines and the beautifully preserved centuries old harbour towns Croatia has to offer from an entirely new perspective. Whether traveling for business or pleasure, ECA will provide an experience worth remembering.

DOLLAR & THRIFTY QC-2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46 92 32, rijeka@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A

www.ec-air.eu

CAR RENTAL

HERTZ QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Working hours dependent on flight schedule. A

PARKING Different zones have different max waiting times - check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are a few kuna per hour. Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins.

Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

PHARMACY Night shifts are covered by the Centar Pharmacy and you will find which pharmacy is on duty on weekends and national holidays on this site: www.ljekarna-jadran.hr.

CENTAR QD-2, Riva 18, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 01. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A KAZALIŠTU QE-2, Uljarska 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 79. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A KORZO QD-2, Korzo 22, tel. (+385-51) 21 10 36. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

8 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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City Basics CUSTOMS

SMOKING

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

TOILETS Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

VISAS Since Croatia had become the newest member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, Croatian Visa Policies have since become fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SAFETY You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night.

Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

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Culture & Events

Let 3

RIJEKA ROCK CITY Jonathan Bousfield explores the alternative heritage of the Kvarner capital.

Long-time journalist and chronicler of the Rijeka music scene Velid Đekić was keen to take me to Dežmanova ulica, a typical street of nineteenth-century apartment blocs just below Rijeka’s Gubernatorial Palace. It is here that a discreet plaque marks the former site of Husar (1957-1964), Croatia’s first ever rock and roll club, and arguably the first such club in the whole of communist-controlled Europe. Husar didn’t initially host any live acts, but it did offer a chance to hear the latest vinyl records, brought into the city by visiting sailors. “After the 1948 split with Stalin”, Đekić continues, “the port of Rijeka was open to all kinds of western ships; rock and roll came as the cultural baggage.”

The culture of rock and roll is so ingrained in Croatian history that it has almost become part of the country’s identity. It’s a narrative that is understandably presented as a story centred on Zagreb, the capital city. However it was the gritty port city of Rijeka that led the way when it came to Croatia’s relationship with the electric guitar, and it is arguably Rijeka that preserves most in terms of rebel heritage today.

It was Rijeka that gave birth to Croatia’s first ever rock and roll band, Uragani (“The Hurricanes”) in 1960. According to Đekić, who has chronicled the scene in books 91 Decibel and Red! River! Rock!, Uragani leader Dario Ottaviani was the first Croatian to write a rock and roll song. Đekić goes on to reveal that Rijeka hosted some of the first ever gigs by British bands to tour in communist Europe. Colin Hicks and the Cabin Boys played at Rijeka’s historical Teatro Fenice in 1960. Appearing at the same venue six years later were British beat group The Rockin’ Vickers, featuring legendin-the-making Ian Lemmy Kilmister on guitar.

10 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Although the Husar club disappeared long ago, there is at least one Rijeka club that played a pivotal role in musical history and which still exists today. Hidden away in the graffiticovered Kružna ulica, OKC Palach is one of the oldest continually-running rock clubs anywhere in Europe. Affectionately dubbed “Croatia’s answer to CBGBs” by Đekić, it was opened in November 1968 by a group of medical students.

Initially named Index, the club was re-christened Palach in 1969 in honour of Jan Palach, the Czech student who set himself alight in January 1969 in protest at his country’s occupation by Soviet troops. A group of students from Rijeka had been on an excursion to Czechoslovakia at the time, and came up with the idea of changing the club’s name. It was a controversial move that underlined an aspect of Rijeka that was to grow in importance in the years that followed – a taste for the provocative gesture. Although Yugoslavia had been sharply critical of the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia, the question of Yugoslav-Soviet relations was far too sensitive an area to be left to a bunch of students. It’s probably thanks to Rijeka’s provincial position that the name was allowed to stick – a club called Palach would never have been allowed in Zagreb or Belgrade.

Palach was one of the main incubators of the Croatian punk scene in the late Seventies, a scene in which Rijeka occupied a central position. The first punk concert in ex-Yugoslavia is believed to have been the impromptu performance by Rijeka band Paraf, held at Host Park in summer 1977.

Paraf were crucial in providing Croatian punk with its antiestablishment flavour, ironically praising the police force in Narodna Pjesma, and making oblique references to the searing sunshine of Goli otok (Bare Island) - the first ever popularculture reference to the prison camp established by Tito’s communists in 1948. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Rijeka was home to a generous handful of post-Paraf punk bands, most memorably Termiti (The Termites), led by a singer who indulged in on-stage self-mutilation and famously performed with a toilet bowl on his head. Rijeka’s punk wave coincided with the launch of the Ri-Rock Festival (www.rirock.hr), a showcase for unsigned bands that still exists – indeed it’s thought to be the longest continually running such festival in Croatia.

Rijeka’s youth magazine Val (“Wave”), although officially published by the Rijeka branch of the League of Socialist Youth, took its lead from the New Musical Express rather than Marx and Engels, and nurtured a stable of talented rock writers: Velid Đekić was one, future record-company mogul Goran Lisica Fox was another. “There was a sense of community between musicians and public” Đekić remembers, “and an awareness that the people in the audience today could well be up on stage themselves tomorrow.”

The culture of rock and roll is so ingrained in Croatian history that it has almost become part of the country’s identity.

Rijeka didn’t just define Croatian punk but also much of the country’s new wave scene of the 1980s. The city produced synth-pop duo Denis i Denis as well as edgy pop outfit Xenia and all-female band Cacadou Look. The Croatian scene was dependent on Rijeka for providing its avant-garde edge; a situation that in many ways hasn’t changed today.

It was Goran Lisica Fox who famously described Rijeka as a ‘musical Galapagos’, a self-contained city that always stood apart from popular culture’s mainland. Indeed Rijeka’s geographical position was crucial; a port city that was subject to the cultural influences of Ljubljana and Zagreb but which never fully belonged to the media industries of either.

Rijeka’s particular aptitude for producing punk, electronica and wilder excursions into the world of noise is something that Velid Đekić connects with the city’s industrial heritage.

The fact that so many musicians worked in Rijeka’s factories and shipyards exerted an undeniable influence on the abrasive aesthetics of the scene. Đekić points to legendary alternative band Grč as the most eloquent example of this; an uncompromising band whose live performances (featuring severed animal heads and lots of blood) were a celebration of primal energy.

Let 3, founded by former Termiti bassist Damir Martinović Mrle, have spent thirty years at the cutting edge of Croatian rock and become a Rijeka trademark in the process. Their theatrical performances (frequently featuring nudity, carnivalesque costumes and fruity language) fit in perfectly with their home city’s reputation for subversive high jinks.

Let 3’s Mrle was one of the first cultural activists to spot the potential of Hartera, the former paper factory whose mooted facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

redevelopment into an alternative cultural centre has been a constant theme of discussion for the last ten years. Tucked into a ravine formed by the Riječina River, Hartera comprises an extensive complex of disused factory spaces, with the dramatic arches of a red-brick aqueduct framing the scene.

One of the factory halls, Marganovo, has been the scene of the Hartera Festival since 2005 (the next edition is due for September 2015), an event designed to draw attention to the site’s potential for regeneration. In addition to the festival, regular club events under the ‘Heartera’ banner (www.facebook.com/HeartEraProject) are held in one of the factory’s smaller halls.

As Heartera’s Davor Popdankovski explained, plans are currently afoot to turn a large part of the Hartera complex into a self-sustaining alternative social centre complete with hostel, craft brewery, recycling centre and health-food production centre. Still in his mid twenties, Popdankovski is a prime example of how Rijeka’s alternative-culture baton gets passed on from one generation to the next. “Rijeka has this reputation of being a rock-and-roll city but rock has always been just one part of a much bigger scene” Popdankovski says.

“There’s electronica and a whole lot of other things; you’ll see electric parties, gay parties, metal parties, all kinds of stuff.”

The associations responsible for running events at the Hartera have teamed up with other organizations to form Molekula (www.molekula.org), an umbrella alliance of alternative groups that is increasingly influential in driving cultural change. Molekula members are currently responsible for coordinating the Hartera regeneration projects, running the programme at the Filodrammatica cultural centre, and organizing gigs at the legendary Palach club.

Currently running the Palach programme is Distune Promotion, co-founded by punk fan and social activist Željko Pendić.

“Rijeka is so near Ljubljana and Zagreb and yet touring bands didn’t stop off here that often” Pendić explains. “And it wasn’t due to the lack of infrastructure or lack of a public, but due to the lack of concert bookers prepared to build up a tradition of year-to-year activity.“ Since then Distune have organized a huge number of live events and also initiated the Impuls Festival, which incorporates gigs, art exhibitions and round-table discussions every year in April.

As both Pendić and Popdankovski are keen to point out, there is a lot more to Rijeka than just Hartera and Palach, with a healthy fistful of both privately-run and semi-underground venues hosting gigs and DJ events – many of which feature the involvement or support of Molekula and its members.

“Rijeka still has a lot of potential not just because of its rock heritage but because it is becoming more and more of a student city thanks to the growth of the university” Pendić concludes. “There are 10,000 students already, and when the university campus is finished we will see a whole new energy emerging.”

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Culture & Events EXHIBITIONS 18.06 THURSDAY - 18.07 SATURDAY BOÎTE-EN-VALISE The project Boite-en-valise (Box in a suitcase) promotes young art scene hopefuls arising from French art schools.

On this occasion, fifteen young French artists were invited to review methods of presentation and their works in a contemporary context. Each of them has set their work in a wooden coffin, be it an image, installation, video work or performance, while offering a modern portable museum.

On the go!QC-2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/II, www.mmsu.hr.

21.08 FRIDAY - 28.08 FRIDAY FRIENDS OF THE SEA – NINETEEN HUNDRED AND SOMETHING Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert team will be held with 62 large format documentary photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.

QD-2, Korzo, www.prijateljimora.com.

JAZZ CONCERTS 03.07 FRIDAY - 05.07 SUNDAY THE 15TH LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace, along the promenade or on the Jazz Boat sailing the Riviera. With 15 concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!QOpatija, www.liburniajazz.hr.

21.08 FRIDAY TAMARA OBROVAC TRANSHISTRIA ENSEMBLE Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvisation and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediterranean music, thus creating a unique artistic expression. The concert will be a promotion of their new album Canto amoroso.QHotel Kvarner, Opatija, www.tamaraobrovac. com.

SPECIAL EVENTS 18.06 THURSDAY - 18.07 SATURDAY RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation. For detailed program visit www.hnk-zajc.hr.QVarious locations, Rijeka.

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20.06 SATURDAY - 05.09 SATURDAY DELTA SUMMER STREET SESSION A typical underground event for devotees to rock/alternative/metal/industrial music! Bands from neighbouring countries, Croatia and in particular the area of Rijeka get to sizzle the stage with their heavy riffs and roar sounds.QF-3, Music Box, Delta 5, prostor iza bivše zgrade Ivexa, www. rirock.hr.

01.07 WEDNESDAY - 05.09 SATURDAY SUMMER ON GRADINA Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing conceptual program placed around different parts of the fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and presentations. This is the 10th jubilee edition and the action kicks off on July 1st with the event in 1000 candles and lasts until September 5th. Just being up on Trsat is a breath taking experience!QR-2, www.trsatskagradina.com.

18.09 FRIDAY - 19.09 SATURDAY HARTERA FESTIVAL An old torn down paper factory has become home to one of the top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay tuned for line up details as amazing performers from all over the world have helped create an amazing ambience and reputation that continues to grow.QF-1, Ex Paper Factory, Ružićeva bb, www.hartera.com.

18.09 FRIDAY - 20.09 SUNDAY TORPEDO FESTIVAL Get ready to hit the dancefloor as the music and dance of salsa storms through the town with this three day bonanza.

The best of Latino is here and there are workshops, three party nights and top class national and international dancers present. Grab your shoes, and let the tunes ooze…QF-2, Strossmayerova 1, www.torpedosalsafestival.com.

KASTAV CULTURAL SUMMER 26.06 FRIDAY - 28.08 FRIDAY From its beginnings in the 90’s when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other art fields and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. Culture at its finest! www.kkl.hr 16.07 THURSDAY - 18.07 SATURDAY GUITAR FESTIVAL There are few things sweeter then gift of music, played by artisans and wunderkinds, and so let us talk of the Guitar Festival. This year’s event sees Damir Kukuruzović’s Django Group, Fog Painters which make Zoran Majstorović on oud, Žiga Golob on double bass, Kruno Levačić on drums and Vasko Atanastovski on sax and flute. Festival will end with Gerbaz GIIPUJA featuring sensational Elvis Stanić. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 24.07 FRIDAY LET 3 Get a taste of vintage Croatian rock that may leave your ears and eyes polarised. Sure, Let 3 can pelt out their chart topping hits and really explode on stage, at the same time they are known to resort to nudity and simulate some obscene moves on stage. Either way, punters are in for a real show!

14.08 FRIDAY VATRA Vatra, which means fire, is a Croatian rock band best known for their hit song, Tremolo, that won them the Porin, a Croatian music award, in 2012. Don’t miss out on seeing this burning hot group.

21.08 FRIDAY AMIRA MEDUNJANIN Since releasing her debut album ‘Rosa’ 10 years ago, the respected Sarajevo artist has to date made a full circle and started anew. In the program called ‘Silk & Stone’, the audience will have the opportunity to experience the popular old folk songs ‘sevdalinke’ and other traditional songs from the region, performed in an unconventional way.

OPATIJA SUMMER STAGE 06.06 SATURDAY - 30.08 SUNDAY Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers such as Oliver Dragojević and Massimo. www.festivalopatija.hr 20.06 SATURDAY OLIVER AND FRIENDS ‘ALL TENDER WORDS OF THE WORLD’ GAMM Opatija refers to Gala Music Moments and is a series of concerts from local and foreign music stars. The opening event will be held by Croatia’s Oliver Dragojević, one of our all-time great vocalists who will perform songs from his latest LP ‘Silence of the Sea’ as well as his other mega hits. Oliver will be accompanied by his band Dupini, Elvis Stanić on guitar, and the choir Izvor.QConcert starts at 21:30. Tickets 120-240kn.

26.06 FRIDAY MUSICAL: MAMMA MIA 54 million people have seen the show; productions include the West End and Broadway as well as international productions as is the one from Croatia. The musical includes ABBA’s mega classics ‘Super Trouper’, ‘Lay All Your Love on Me’, ‘Dancing Queen’, ‘Knowing Me, Knowing You, ‘Take a Chance on Me’, ‘Thank You for the Music’, ‘Money, Money, Money’, ‘The Winner Takes It All’, ‘Voulez Vous’, and the title track. Two and a half hours of pop and dance!QStarts at 21:30. Tickets 70-110kn. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

10.07 FRIDAY MAKSIM MRVICA & BAND BEST OF CROSSOVER Maksim Mrvica is a Croatian pianist who plays classical crossover music. This classical genius started playing the piano at the age of nine and has since then performed in international beauty pageants and at the MTV awards. His album, The Piano Player, was so popular in Asia that it held the number 1 slot on the HMV international pop chart in Hong Kong for twelve consecutive weeks!QConcert starts at 21:30. Tickets 160 - 180kn.

15.07 WEDNESDAY TONČI HULJIĆ & MADRE BADESSA BAND ‘LAGANINI’ Summer on Stage brings this Dalmatian urban/pop band with ethno roots led by composer and songwriter Tonći Huljić. ‘Madre badessa’ is a genre in their own right and they recently sold out at the Lisinski Hall in Zagreb. A breathe of fresh air has hit the scene with instruments such as the tuba and mandolin in abundance; one must say that subtle reggae can be heard in parts as well.QConcert starts at 21:30. Tickets 60-100kn.

01.08 SATURDAY - 06.08 THURSDAY SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL Organisers call this the Croatian Cannes thanks to the combo of seaside beauty and film in one. Summer Stage is set to go with the best international music documentary films produced over the past few years shown on the big screen. Stay tuned for more info as well as musical entertainment.Qwww.spff.hr.

14.08 FRIDAY MASSIMO One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblances in voice. His newly released and long awaited album ‘Jedan dan ljubavi’, ‘One day of Love’ has received rave reviews and he brings his emotional tunes to Opatija Summer Stage what should be a night to remember.

QConcert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120 - 170kn.

OPATIJA 27.06 SATURDAY FIREWORKS FESTIVAL Just when you thought that things couldn’t get hotter, BANG! Look up as the sky over Opatija is lit up by fantastic artistic creations. Fireworks are launched from a pontoon floating in the sea which brings sparks to the night sky. Live bands and culinary specialties will add to the vibe!QSlatina Beach, Opatija. Starts at 19:00.

facebook.com/ rijekainyourpocket Summer 2015

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Culture & Events 01.07 WEDNESDAY - 31.08 MONDAY OPATIJA OLD-TIMER TOUR Take a city bus, take a taxi, drive yourself, or why not be driven in a classic old-timer and see Opatija and its surroundings in what is a rare experience. Drives last for approximately 25 minutes and are set in the evenings. Vroom vroom and its fun for the entire family!QIn front of Hotel Milenij, Opatija. Every Tuesday 19:30 - 22:00.

11.07 SATURDAY RETROPATIJA Retropatija brings us back to the 60`s, 70`s and 80`s which were memorable for all in this area. In the park behind Villa Angiolina one can see old-timer cars with music playing from their radios; dancers dressed in suits, popular drinks of that day are available and the biggest disco ball is set in an Open Air Theatre as a symbol of those times.QVilla Angiolina’s park, Open Air Theatre, Opatija.

17.07 FRIDAY RAPHAEL WRESSNIG & SOUL GIFT BAND Raphael Wressnig is not your ordinary B-3 organ player.

He’s a young master of the large instrument and is technically fluent in blues, jazz, soul and funk, fusing music from his creative imagination. He brings with him a group of musicians who can exacerbate a hybrid of groove n vibe with a touch of wildness.QRemisens Premium Hotel Kvarner, Opatija. Concert starts at 21:00.

09.08 SUNDAY SUGARDADDY & THE CEREAL KILLERS Vintage 50s and 60s is back with this Italian sensation! Feel the Afro-American energy of yester years return with this awesome act who can conjure a mix of R&B, Jive, Boogie and Rock n Roll all in one. Lots of classic blues as well as covers from Ray Charles, Little Richard, Luis Prima and others can be found on the repertoire.QRemisens Premium Hotel Kvarner, Opatija. Concert starts at 21:00.

25.08 TUESDAY - 29.08 SATURDAY THE 13TH LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Ičići port near Opatija last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike! QIčići port, info@ liburniafilmfestival.com, www.liburniafilmfestival.com.

All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.

LOVRAN 06.09 SUNDAY THE 9TH UČKA’S FAIR Looking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastronomy and ethnological heritage. See the local meals, products, crafts, music, and costumes that have survived over time and don’t forget your camera with exceptional panoramic views from up top.QUčka Nature Park, Poklon, www.pp-ucka.hr.

KASTAV 19.06 FRIDAY - 20.06 SATURDAY KASTAV FILM FESTIVAL A festival of film without boundaries where there is neither censorship nor label, open for all and free for all. To be held in three locations in Kastav, Fortica, Loža, and Garaža.QFortica, Loža, Garaža, Kastav, www. kastavfilmfestival.com.

05.08 WEDNESDAY - 10.08 MONDAY 8TH KASTAV BLUES FESTIVAL Craving a little blues this summer! You’ll witness performances by some amazing Croatian and international blues performers. The event is held annually in honour of the USA country-blues musician Jerry Ricks who chose Kastav as his home and final resting place. By all admission, it’s free admission!QKastav, kastavbluesfest.com.

BAKAR 20.06 SATURDAY - 25.07 SATURDAY THE MARGARET’S SUMMER A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Venetians attacked the town.QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr.

27.09 SUNDAY - 05.12 SATURDAY FESTIVAL KVARNER Extraordinary concerts in unordinary yet memorable venues. This EU funded event combines talented young European musicians with renowned singers and orchestras. Where else but in Opatija! QOpatija, www. festivalkvarner.com.

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Culture & Events

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SUMMER BEATS So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight. We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno, house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has to offer from north to south and will make sure you know the place, the date, and the headliners.

As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds among the community in the era before mass media. That time has passed but the need to be a part of something bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on dancing and living!

ZAGREB Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with 16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

The Garden Festival - Boat Party by Heather Shuker

the event of the season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.

ISTRIA & KVARNER We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.

NORTHERN DALMATIA So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.

From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events Nina Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.

From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and Felix Krocher.

Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.

Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and 8th.

From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia.

For some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th. For these few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.

After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega,

and Dimitri from Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.

Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.

CENTRAL DALMATIA Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide over to Split. This is where you want to be because from Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival with Fedde Le Grand.

Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson, and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .

SOUTHERN DALMATIA And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz, Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće. For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!

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Summer 2015

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Rijeka Pulse

Photo by Mirna Sišul

We asked locals - who live or work in Rijeka - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

JELENA GERMUTH Organisational coordinator for the Hartera festival RIYP: Your favourite place to have a coffee or a night out?

Jelena: Definitely coffee by the sea. Then there is the Empeduja Beach Bar or Surf in Volosko. Whereas with night life, it all depends on your mood and what is on offer (the wine bar Kod Zajca is home to some great wine and after that a visit to some of the city clubs such as Život, Tunel or Beertija). As I am a fan of concerts and live gigs, I am the first to choose something along those lines. I would definitely recommend the Harter Festival which this year takes place on September 18 and 19 at Marganovo, where the former paper factory used to be.

RIYP: According to you, where is it best to relax in Rijeka?

Jelena: Always the sea, beaches and paths (including those around the wider area of Rijeka).

RIYP: What is the best way to get to know the city?

What would you recommend?

Jelena: Well, that definitely depends on your personal preferences. I believe that cities and towns are best unravelled through their city folk, through the people who live there. I always tend to ‘meet and greet’ locals, asking for their views on where to eat, drink, go out, or go on a day 18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

trip and so on. Summer brings its own activities; meaning the beach, the sea and all the wonderful things associated with it.

RIYP: The most ideal place to shop? What would you recommend as a souvenir and a nice memory of Rijeka?

Jelena: Again, it depends on what you need and how much time you have; for the patient and curious types I suggest roaming around the city centre and its surroundings, or visit the town market where you will find homegrown cherries for instance. For those wishing to shop for clothes or other items, then I suggest going to the major shopping centres around town which are easy to reach via city lines. And as far as souvenirs, since Rijeka is known as a music haven for numerous and well recognised artists; maybe a CD or item related to Let 3, Damir Urban and many others, which can be found at the Dallas Music Shop in the heart of town.

RIYP: Which of the local specialties would you consider as a must try to city visitors?

Jelena: Rijeka’s restaurants and taverns definitely offer a lot, especially Conca d’Oro and Mornar, both of which are in the city centre. Ohh, and for a taste of great pizza, I highly recommend Pizza Maslina in Škurinjama.

MIRNA SIŠUL Academic painter, freelance artist RIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or go out at night?

Mirna: I like to get a cup of coffee in Cukarikafe... It is a favourite city cafe, both for daily lattes and for evening night outs. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Pulse RIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Rijeka?

Mirna: I love walking on Trsat, the wonderful view from the Fortress is truly relaxing. I often head out to the Molo Longo pier looking out at the river from the sea front.

Mirna: I recommend patties of anchovies, simple and fine at the ‘Nebuloza konoba’. Of course, other fish dishes are certainly worth trying... In our part of the world it’s what we do best, it’s local and super delicious!

RIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?

Which activities do you recommend?

Mirna: Still I believe that discovering Rijeka is best ‘on foot’. It’s what I choose to do when I travel and go sightseeing around other world cities. Apart from walking and exploring city spots with your usual favourite city guide, I also suggest the city tourist bus which in a short space of time can help you discover the most important landmarks around the city!

RIYP: What is the most ideal place to shop? What do you recommend as a souvenir from Rijeka?

Mirna: I love going to Korzo, the main city promenade full of shop windows and various deals! But the side streets and alleys reveal some stunning small stores and lots of interesting offers. I recommend a souvenir that will remind you of your holidays in Rijeka, and naturally, each person has their favourite goodie! For me personally, a souvenir to remember must be either something useable or a recognisable drink or food from the local area. Something that with only a glance, touch or taste, brings me back memories of that very vacation!

RIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?

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Hartera Festival Archives

Hartera Festival Archives

Summer 2015

19

Restaurants

Tifan Bistro Archives

CROATIAN KONOBA MUNICIPIUM Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, restaurant.municipium@gmail.com, www.restaurantkonobamunicipium.fullbusiness.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 150kn). PTJAG� BXW KONOBA NEBULOZA Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches.The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrianstyle sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF-1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, info@konobanebuloza. com, www.konobanebuloza.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). PT� JAGW NONO FRANE Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, info@nonofrane.hr, www.nonofrane.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn).

PTA6LGBXSW 20 Rijeka In Your Pocket

RONJGI In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome.

QRonjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, guido@ ronjgi.com.hr, www.ronjgi.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. (50 - 80kn). PTA6LG� BXW ŠMRIKA A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato’ plus many more wines.QMarčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. (+385-51) 65 10 20, smrika@ smrika.hr, www.smrika.hr. Open , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (50 100kn). PTA6LGBXSW

INTERNATIONAL KAMOV Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious.

Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.QC-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, bonavia@ bonavia.hr, www.bonavia.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 120kn). PTALGW SORRISO Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/ (+385-) 091 271 10 66, sorriso.rijeka@gmail.com, www. restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn).

PTNGBXW SPAGHO This spaghetteria has a wide range of classic pasta dishes, a brief but well-composed pizza menu and specialities such as carpaccio, saltinbocca and steaks prepared in imaginative ways such as with grana padano, rucola and vinegar.

With its elegant contemporary décor, excellent kitchen and good wine list, Spagho is highly prized by the locals as spot for a light meal in the city centre.QE-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22, info@ristorante-spagho.com, www. ristorante-spagho.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. (30 - 150kn). PTJAGBXSW

KONOBA A konoba is a type of restaurant typical of the Croatian coast - simple and traditional, although some modern versions have gone somewhat upscale, and are great places to experience local atmosphere and cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them.

BLATO In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood - our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF-1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70, maras@blato1902.hr, www.konoba-blato.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 80kn). PTAGXW GIRICA Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN-2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, iva_zec@yahoo.com, www.konoba-girica.incroatia. info. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn).

PTALGW IVE This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ-2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (20 - 60kn).

TA6LGBXW TARSA The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

or cheese with truffles - a speciality from nearby Istria.

QR-2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89, konoba.tarsa@gmail.com, www.konobatarsa. com. Open , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:30 - 00:00, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 120kn).

PTA6ULGBXSW VOLTA 15 A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu - no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).QD-2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 06, josipskundrc@ gmail.com. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 120kn). PTAGBXW

SEAFOOD FERAL Croatian classics - it’s a simple place with a small menu which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE-2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, manic61@me.com, www. konoba-feral.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. July, August Open 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 120kn). PTAGBXSW NA KANTUNU Excellent fish dishes and a great wine list at budget prices.

A quick and easy eating place - high stools at the tables, but clean and comfortable nonetheless. With a relaxed style and great food, it’s a favourite with Rijeka’s architects’ community.QE-3, Demetrova 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 32 71, na.kantunu@email.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - 200kn). PTJAGBXSW

CHINESE PEKING You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP-3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, linchunlei@net. hr, www.peking-ri.com. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (30 - 120kn).

PTALGBXSW PEKING WOK Newly opened at the western end of Korzo, near the fountains and Erste Bank, a stone’s throw from the bus station.

Enjoy an extensive menu of traditional, authentic Chinese dishes in comfortable surroundings for every occasion from business meetings, family celebrations, weddings, or a simple romantic evening out.QC-2, Jadranski trg 4/C, tel. (+385-51) 41 08 88, linchunlei@net.hr, www.pekingri.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 95kn). PTAG� BXW Summer 2015

21

Restaurants

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board - Photonet

MEXICAN MEXICAN CANTINA BODEGA What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case - especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE - 3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59, bodegarijeka@gmail.com, www. bodega.fullbusiness.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). PTALGBXW

VEGETARIAN KLUB MAKROVEGA Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.QE-2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45, makrovega.rijeka@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 30kn). PT6NGSW PRIRODA I DRUŠTVO JUICE&SMOOTHIE BAR This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say.

The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemi 22 Rijeka In Your Pocket

cals or concentrates. They also deliver.QE-2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 624 05 24, info@ prirodaidrustvo.com, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). iTJ6NGBXW TIFAN Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found 3pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers - not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, info@tifan.hr, www.tifan.hr. Open 06:00 - 22:00.

Closed Sun. (25 - 60kn). PiTA6GBXW

QUICK EATS BAR BAR Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients. There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more. Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs! A true package!QD-1/2, Pod volton 6, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/(+385-) 091 739 31 99, barbar. rijeka@gmail.com. Open Mon, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Tues, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Thurs 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. (8-20kn). iBS BUFFET COCCO Small, yet lively and vibrant best describe this busy eatery come lunchtime. Here, one can taste real local homemade food as if it comes from mama’s own kitchen. Your waiter rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants will be the owner who really shines in making your experience a winner.QB-2, Uski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 26 50/(+385-) 091 196 02 53, jakovcocco@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 15:00. Closed Sun. (25 - 110kn).

TAGBXW HAMBY Fast food but not junk - hot and cold sandwiches, burgers - including soya - and pizza cuts. This Hamby at the train station does pasta, gnocci, pizzas and salads too.

Lifesaving!QE-2, Ante Starčevića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 06 53. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 30kn). TNGBX

Lavrvs Restaurant Archives

MORNAR Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.

Mornar (“the sailor”) serves mainly meat dishes, plus a few fish specialities. Try lamb lešo - cooked with vegetables or barbecued smoked ribs.QD-3, Riva Boduli 5a, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22, bistro.mornar@yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (22 - 65kn). PiTJA6LG� BXSW

PIZZA BRACERA A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC-2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(25 - 110kn). PTA6GBXW KOKOLO On the road leading west from Rijeka towards Kastav, this large pizza and pasta restaurant has a large shaded terrace, a bright and homely interior and a great play area that will keep the ankle-biters occupied for hours.QL-2, Zametska 58, tel. (+385-51) 26 33 94, www.kokolo.hr. Open 09:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 180kn). PTAG� BXSW PAMPAS A good place to grab a pizza after visiting the pilgrim shrine and fort up on Trsat. A pretty location.QV-2, Slavka Krautzeka 49, tel. (+385-51) 21 90 58. Open 10:00 - 23:00.

(27- 65kn). PTVNGBXSW

MOŠČENIĆKA DRAGA JOHNSON This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice.QMajćevo 29b, Moščenićka Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, info@ johnson.hr, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). PTA6LGBXSW facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Villa Ariston Archives

LOVRAN DRAGA DI LOVRANA Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www.dragadilovrana.hr.

Open , Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). PTALGBXW NAJADE Classic good food - fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (70 - 250kn).

PAGBX

IČIĆI DOPOLAVORO If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style - it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.

QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, info@dopolavoro.hr, www.dopolavoro.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. July - August 31 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). TALGBXSW Summer 2015

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Restaurants OPATIJA CANTINETTA SV. JAKOV A beautiful space within the 5 star Hotel Milenij, Sveti Jakov wisely offers a small selection of dishes with local accents, beautifully prepared, at surprisingly sensible prices.QPava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 200kn). PTALGBXW GASTRO WORLD This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, info@milenijhoteli.hr, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 00:00. (35 - 125kn).

PTJAGBXW ISTRANKA A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria - a region with a very distinct style. A shady terrace and musical accompaniment worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, comeprima@ inet.hr, www.istranka.net. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 120kn). PTA6GBXW VOLOS Not a common place for a restaurant in Opatija but do not let that deter you because their kitchen is ‘yummy’.

Crispy homemade bread, gnocchi and pasta accompanied by various sauces, Mediterranean fish dishes and fine desserts such as tiramisu and semifreddo. Daily specials add to the spontaneity!QStubište Lipovica 2 (Marino Cvetković Sports Hall), Opatija. Open 11:00 23:00. (25 - 105kn). TAGBXW

VOLOSKO LAVRVS Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines - always a good sign.QNova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 13 55, laurus@ villa-kapetanovic.hr, www.villa-kapetanovic.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 145kn). PTALGBXW

PLAVI PODRUM A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.

QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, dkramari@inet.hr, www. plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).

PTAGBXSW

KASTAV MALA RIBA This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, info@mala-riba.com, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn).

PTA6GBXW

KRK GOSPOJA Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash - a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@gospoja. hr, www.gospoja.hr. April - October 30 Open 11:00 23:00. (40 - 180kn). TALGBXSW KONOBA NADA If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, nada@ri.t-com.hr, www. nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 22:00.

(70 - 270kn). PTALGBXW

CRES KONOBA BELI When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch, you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines, served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, www.belicres.com/konoba-beli/. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

www.inyourpocket.com/rijeka 24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board - Photonet

FOOD MARKETS Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers.

The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age.

In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce.

For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce.

Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces. We recommend you try this home-made food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood.

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs.

In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads.

Summer 2015

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Local Flavour But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen.

Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs.

Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden… Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locally-grown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise…

And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey… Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you’re in town in the winter.

And let’s not forget the cafés and the fast-food eateries.

With folks up and about from the early morning, a cup of coffee is an essential part of the day. The cafés around the market buzz with atmosphere as locals, stallholders and shoppers alike, stop for a pick-me-up and catch up with the morning’s gossip. This is where you can feel the beating heart of the city, a sense which no tourist guide can convey.

The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It’s the real Rijeka.

FLOATING MARKET Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town.

A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

LOCAL DISHES Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism pages (pp.50-55); here we’ll focus on the gastronomy of the region.

Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.

Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime.

This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island. A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68).

Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle.

Hand-made pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic.

On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries-old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.

Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out.

In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic.

Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it.

On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three.

Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu.

Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight.

Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin.

If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels.

Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites.

Lovran Tourist Board Archives

THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 27.06 SATURDAY FEAST OF TUNA Ahoy mateys, tender tune to tickle your taste buds! Indeed, tuna lovers should venture to the serene village of Jadranovo to taste the various delicious dishes made from tuna. Relax and enjoy the scents, colors and sounds of nature all around beautiful nature. With music and entertainment provided, this event reminds us of the rich and valuable tradition of tuna fishing in Jadranovo.

QJadranovo.

16.08 SUNDAY FOLK FESTIVAL ROKOVA - LIGANJ On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association.

Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long will be prepped!QLovran.

22.09 TUESDAY - 29.09 TUESDAY RI GASTRO – A WEEK OF SQUID AND FIGS Scientific studies have proven that traditional Mediterranean diets are of super-duper value. So the city of Rijeka will for one week in September promote such foods authentic to the area at this time of year. Grandma’s recipes will be revived across various restaurants in town and at very affordable prices.QVarious locations, Rijeka. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

02.10 FRIDAY - 03.10 SATURDAY DAYS OF LIGANJ (SQUID) Smother yourselves with squid cooked, fried and grilled in every shape and form under the sun. Locals have their century old methods and they don’t change a winning formula. Held in the heart of Crikvenica, turn local for two days and you can participate in squid fishing, cooking, drinking wining and dancing to Mediterranean melodies.

QCrikvenica.

23.10 FRIDAY - 25.10 SUNDAY THE 42ND MARUNADA Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October celebration since they are featured in every meal and event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets made with maruni (turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts, rumpsteak in chestnut sauce, chestnut ice-cream, frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). Things turn really nutty with a series of events including a bocce tournament, a bicycle race, the hiking race Učka Vertical, an old timers car show and a fishing competition. QLovran.

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Local Flavour TIPS FOR HUNGRY TRAVELLERS BAŠKOTIN A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!

BENKOVAČKA VARA Looking for some original food from the Zadar region, then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.

CHEESE TO PLEASE! Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their very doorstep.

HAVE YOU EVER EATEN DORMICE? Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.

POVITICA CHEESECAKE A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).

RAB OR LOŠINJ If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you not!

THE ISLAND OF IST, IST GOOD! Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for an authentic special called majolino!

TRY PIPI When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in our Shopping category!

28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

WHAT’S SO SALTY…?

When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you bread up!

WHAT TO HAVE FOR BREAKFAST… Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed fresh.

Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.

THE BLONDES WITHOUT BONES

by Siniša Pavić If by any chance you find yourself, say on a Friday at our fish market, you will surely notice the largest cue at the stands selling fresh sardines and anchovies. And it is these species of blue fish that is sold the most, both because it is rather cheap and foremost extremely healthy. In saying that, even if small blue fish such as sardines are known to catch the eye; it is topple, whitefish, bream or grouper that is still highly sought after. Hence, it would seem that people survive on blue fish, whilst dreaming of having white fish and for that matter, large tasty portions of it. To put it mildly, this is a somewhat unfair attitude towards a category of fish that has in the past nurtured and raised our entire coastline.

Darko Bartić Barba decided to change that and restore the dignity of blue fish, popularising it the way it deserves.

And he is one person who can rightfully do so because not only is he a food blogger, a critic of fine gastronomy and wine, a hedonist and a man who knows every corner of per excellence taverns and restaurants of the Primorje and Kvarner region and beyond, but he is also a child of Crikvenica. He grew up in a time when fleets and the shipment of blue fish around Crikvenica, together with those from Kali, were the largest of all Adriatic ports on the Croatian side of the coast. His cookbook on bluefish, ‘The Blondes Without Bones’ is a great and worthy tribute to harvesting blue fish after which Crikvenica is widely known.

Apart from being a story of a man’s childhood and history, it is also a story about the present and the bright future ahead; just as Darko Baretić had returned with pictures and words to his roots, but in a little more modern way. In his cookbook, an anchovy is cut into fillets; burgers and moussaka are made of blue fish, only to show in which directions a recipe with blue fish can and should go. Nevertheless, one ought to start from the beginning, from asking why books exist at all. And then there is the PŠRD Association called ‘Arbun’ from Crikvenica who, to mark their 65 years of existence requested to write a cookbook instead of a biography depicting their history. And naturally, Baretić was rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour the logical choice for the author. ‘When you get to a certain age, say 60, you’ve got to do something for the common good. You need to give something back to your homeland, society, and community’, says Baretić.

He wanted, like he said, to repay and pay respects to the people of his hometown, recall his childhood when children from the Crikvenica promenade would jump into the sea filled with blue fish in full fishing nets. Crikvenica ‘kids’ jumped in the 1950s on seiner and trawlers, on those 18 anchored ships that were tied to the port. The catch of small blue fish was a main source of income, just as blue fish were the main ingredient for Crikvenica inhabitants who cooked in many and various imaginative ways. Primorje inhabitants who lived along the sea have been raised on blue fish, explains Barba.

And while the book alternates recipes and memories, the master educates, teaching us how blue fish is healthy and can be prepared in a million ways. Marinade per kirski, moussaka from blue fish, minestrone soup with boiled anchovies, Barba’s stew with noodles.... He explains why it is blue fish of all fish? Despite the tradition and love for fishing in Crikvenica. ‘Well, firstly, blue fish is cheaper than white fish, and during a recession that is important. It is nutritionally valuable, and historically it has fed so many people in these parts thanks to the sheer numbers of the fish and at almost free to nothing. In terms of gastronomy, a trend in choosing white fish has prevailed, yet in this day and age restaurants cannot live off customers who will buy only grouper and snapper alone’, says Baretić.

‘The Blondes Without Bones’ Cookbook Archives - by Zoran Vodopija

‘The Blondes Without Bones’ Cookbook Archives - by Zoran Vodopija

Blue fish is not only to be thrown on the ‘grill’, but one can use over three hundred miracles with it. Therefore Baretić praises the organisation PŠRD ‘Arbun’ and its members who every so often organise activities for tourists where they are taught the techniques of processing pelagic fish, as well as filleting and salting. And we mustn’t forget the proof that a big come back ‘of boneless blondes’ is already happening, as testified by the menus of known and recognised restaurants where blue fish is slowly but surely returning to the price list.

Darko Baretić admits that this cookbook pays homage to fisheries and the fisherman who have for one hundred years, from the late 19th and early 20th century, assisted in the development of Crikvenica. He admits that the flavours and scents from childhood cannot fully return, but fortunately there are things which cannot be harmed by the past. ‘There are three timeless determinants of a high quality cuisine; top quality ingredients, a love towards work and the people one cooks for, and naturally a superior knowledge of cooking techniques’, Barba relates.

Sardines, anchovies, and small mackerel including golci are there. And that is just the beginning as other varieties can easily be found between the covers of Barba’s book. Therefore, bon appetite! facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Lošinj Tourist Board Archives

Summer 2015

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife COFFEE BOOK CAFFE DNEVNI BORAVAK For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB1, Ciottina 12a, dnevniboravak.ri@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 00:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:00.

PTJ6ENXW CUKARIKAFE The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices.

Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want?QD-2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 82 76, cukarikafe.bar@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PTA6G� BXW FILODRAMMATICA BOOKSHOP CAFFE This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the VBZ bookshop which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.QD-2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96, filodrammatica@ri.t-com.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

TJ6NGBXW KOSI TORANJ Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE-2, Put Vele crikve 1, tel. (+38551) 33 62 14. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 24:00. PTJ6NBXW STRIGA In the same building as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF-1, Titov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. June - September Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri,Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PNBX

SWEET TREATS CHOCO BAR BONBONNIÈRE KRAŠ Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more.QD-2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, chocobarrijeka@kras.hr, www.kraschocobar.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PTJAG� BXW CUKERIN Here is a sweet tooth haven with juicy cakes, French macaroons, chocolate cookies and many sweets and savoury snacks on offer. Morning, brunch and lunch all seem to have their own special menu. From warm croissants to quiche pie with veggies or bacon, there’s plenty to explore.

Coffee, beer and wine to suit every occasion; as well as lit candles and music to make your experience a wholesome one.QD-1, Pod Kaštelom 9, tel. (+385-51) 44 49 50, cukerin@cukerin.com, www.cukerin.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PTJA6G� BXSW DOLCE BOLERO A cheerful combination of lemon-yellow chairs and brickred walls provides the perfect background for a happy afternoon spent wolfing down whatever cakes, tarts and custard slices happen to be wobbling around seductively in the display cabinet. Dolce Bolero also make cakes to order.

Which is useful if you happen to be planning either a birthday party or a splatter-someone-in-the-face confectionary assault.QD-2, Bazarigov prolaz 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 03 43, dolcebolero.ri@gmail.com, www.dolcebolero.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PNGB SLATKO BY PIKO This is the first Piko outlet dedicated solely to those with a sweet tooth. They offer a myriad of cakes, pastries, tarts, desserts and fancies. You can even order your own custom made cake for your special celebrations via a unique terminal in the shop. Ingenious!QKorzo 33b, tel. (+385-51) 58 55 44, pik.rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.

BARS ARCA FIUMANA One of the three permanently anchored boats on the quayside of the port of Rijeka. Emanating a relaxed atmosphere for coffee and gourmet lunches and snacks from the boat’s galley. It has a double life, however, as on weekend evenings it doubles as a lounge bar and nightclub, playing soft rock and house music. An ideal place for meetings and social, private get-togethers.QC-2/3, Putnička obala bb, tel. (+385-51) 31 90 84, arca.fiumana.ri@gmail.com. Open , Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PJNBXW CHAMPAGNE BAR POMMERY Slap bang in the heart of Korzo. This is the stylish place for coffee and exclusive drinks promotions and hot nightlife. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife Business people, the jet-set, celebrities as well as the locals and tourists sit outside when there’s a free seat. The place to watch life go by on Korzo and also the place to be seen.QD-2, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+385-) 091 444 16 66. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00.

PTJ6ENBXW GALAXIE BAR Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau.

Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22, galaxiebarrijeka@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PT6LNG� BXW KAROLINA Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself. During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD-2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42, pehar.miro@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PTJ6ENBXW MIRAGE The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively. A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ-3, Istarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99, zvonko.berisic@gmail. com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PT� 6NBXW MODESTO Is a small cafe located in the Old Town, between St. Vitus Cathedral and the leaning tower. It exudes a friendly atmosphere where people can relax and chill. At the weekends this café hangout transforms into a night bar with interesting lighting, plenty of space, a DJ who plays everything.

Starting the weekend on Thursdays there are promotional prices, themed parties, which makes Modesto and ideal city “warm-up” for further nightlife.QE-2, Đure Šporera 8, tel. (+385-) 091 954 71 70. Open , Mon, Wed 06:30 - 24:00, Tue, Thu, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 08:00 - 05:00.

Closed Sun. PTJNBXW NAD UROM Nad urom (meaning “above the clock”) describes exactly the location of this café bar because it is located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee. However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, novikorzo@ gmail.com, www.nadurom.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PTJNGBXW PEPE ROSSO In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really!QD-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/(+385-) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PTAEG� BXW RAKHIA BAR This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD-2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 514 65 99, rene.1407@hotmail.com. Open , Mon, Wed, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 02:00. Closed Sun. PTJ6NBXW Summer 2015

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Coffee, Cakes & Nightlife SABRAGE Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-51) 21 80 88, info@ sabragebar.com, www.sabragebar.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PTJENBXW

CLUBS BOA This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJEN� BXW NINA 2 One of the three permanently anchored boats in the port of Rijeka. During the day you can enjoy coffee, during the night the boat turns into a club with entire upper floor from bow to stern becoming the dance floor. Every weekend there’s something happening, guest DJs, live bands and special events. But if the heat gets too much there’s also an open terrace area especially arranged for relaxation and conversation.QC-2, Adamićev gat, tel. (+385-) 099 584 32 03, optimus.oprema@gmail. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 05:00. Closed Sun. PTJENBXW TUNEL Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music, laid back jazz and alternative culture - you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here. The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions.QE-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, bok@tunelklub.com.

Open , Mon 09:00 - 01:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 07:00 - 03:00.

Closed Sun. PT6NBX ŽIVOT The specific interior design of the club, for us, the 80s generation who have been going out for 20 years, it sends us back to our childhood days, recalling one’s grandmother’s home, the things we loved as kids ... indie, pop, rock and electronic performances by bands and DJs go well with that.QF-1, Ružićeva 2, klubzivot@ gmail.com. Open , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00.

32 Rijeka In Your Pocket

PUBS CAPITANO First impressions suggest a classy and yuppiefied pub, complete with bustling be-aproned waiters, upholstered booths and polished cherrywood surfaces. However the pumping music and no-nonsense party atmosphere draws a young and hedonistic crowd in the evenings, especially at weekends when Capitano is a key stopoff on the city-centre booze crawl.QE-2, Riva 10, tel. (+385-51) 78 17 38, info@luje.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PTJ6NBXW CELTIC CAFFE BARD A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks - and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.

QE-2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJ6N� BXW PHANAS PUB A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD-3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, phanas@phanas.hr, www.phanas.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Thu 07:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PTJAEXW RIVER PUB With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD-1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73, novikorzo@gmail.com. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed 06:30 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 06:30 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00. PTJNBXW

WINE BAR KOD ZAJCA WINE&COFFEE BAR Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD-3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10, darijosobol@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 24:00. PiTJENBXW rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

St. Vitus Cathedral - Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

ESSENTIAL RIJEKA ST VITUS CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA SV. VIDA) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1922. Holly Mass: 07:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD-1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

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THE CITY TOWER AND CITY GATE (GRADSKI TORANJ, GRADSKA VRATA) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD-2, Korzo.

THE CORSO (KORZO) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D-2, Korzo.

THE CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE IVAN ZAJC (HRVATSKO NARODNO KAZALIŠTE IVAN PL. ZAJC) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responrijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing sible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newly-landscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE-3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14/(+38551) 35 59 07, propaganda@hnk-zajc.hr, www.hnk-zajc.hr.

Box office open 09:00 - 19:00, 19th June - 19th July Open 09:00 - 17:00 and one hour before the show.

TRSAT Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city.

You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses.

It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space.

The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić - the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS-1.

CHURCHES THE CAPUCHIN CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF LOURDES (KAPUCINSKA CRKVA GOSPE LURDSKE) The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Building started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hard-earned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB-2, Kapucinske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

THE CHURCH OF ST JEROME AND DOMINICAN MONASTERY (CRKVA SV. JERONIMA I DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square. It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee - members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00,18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.

QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20.

Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:00.

THE CHURCH OF ST MARY OF THE ASSUMPTION AND THE LEANING TOWER (CRKVA UZNESENJA BLAŽENE DJEVICE MARIJE I KOSI TORANJ) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Summer 2015

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Sightseeing Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings.

This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00.QE-2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST NICHOLAS (PRAVOSLAVNA CRKVA SV. NIKOLE) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD-2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30.

FOUNTAINS THE JADRANSKI TRG FOUNTAIN (FONTANA JADRANSKI TRG) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.

QC-2, Jadranski trg.

THE OLD PAPER MILLSTONES (STARI KOLODROB) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD-2, Koblerov trg.

THE PUBLIC DRINKING FOUNTAIN (JAVNA SLAVINA) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA-2, Krešimirova.

GALLERIES BRUKETA 2 The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

KORTIL An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.

QF-2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+38551) 37 70 51, jolanda.todorovic@rijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. September Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

THE KAWASAKI FOUNTAIN (FONTANA KAWASAKI) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.

QE-2, Jelačićev trg.

MALI SALON A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD-2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. mmsu.hr. Open Mon closed, Tue - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Admission free.

THE KORZO FOUNTAIN (FONTANA KORZO) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD-2, Korzo.

TRSATSKA GRADINA Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina.QU-1, Petra Zrinskog bb, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14. Open 09:00 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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PRINCIPIJ GALLERY QE-2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, fotoklubrijeka@net.hr, www.fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Admission free.

www.inyourpocket.com/rijeka rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

HISTORICAL AREAS CALVARY 17-18 CENTURY (RIJEČKA KALVARIJA IZ 17-18. ST.) Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.

QE-1, Kalvarija.

REMAINS OF THE 4THC ROMAN PRAETORIUM (KASNOANTIČKI KASTRUM 4ST.) Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

THE FORT OF THE HOLY CROSS (GRADINA SV. KRIŽ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from in38 Rijeka In Your Pocket

land Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).

Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT-2, Sveti križ.

THE OLD CITY (STARI GRAD) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera.

INDUSTRIAL RIJEKA THE PAPER MILL (TVORNICA PAPIRA) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF-1, Ružićeva bb.

THE SHIPYARDS (BRODOGRADILIŠTE) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL-3, Liburnijska 3.

Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter.

QM-3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA-2, Petra Krešimira 5.

THE SUGAR REFINERY (TVORNICA ŠEĆERA) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA-1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. THE TORPEDO FACTORY (TVORNICA TORPEDA) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

Summer 2015

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Sightseeing LANDMARKS ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK The newly renovated Archaeological Park has recently opened in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD-2, Trg Jurja Klović.

HURRICANE! Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005.

MEMORIAL BRIDGE TO RIJEKA’S SOLDIERS (MOST HRVATSKIH BRANITELJA) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE-2, Uskočka riva.

PORT OF RIJEKA (RIJEČKA LUKA) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. Dur40 Rijeka In Your Pocket

ing the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s.

Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline.

However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD-3.

RIJEKA’S BRIDGES (RIJEČKI MOSTOVI) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.QF-1/2, E-2.

SUŠAK - PEĆINE The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during AustroHungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).

Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana BrlićMažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.

In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S-3/4.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

THE MILKMAID (MLJEKARICA) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu.QE-2, Užarska.

THE RIJEKA ASTRONOMICAL CENTER (ASTRONOMSKI CENTAR RIJEKA) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta).

It is set in a building which was built in 1941 as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations in planetarium are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 19:30, and in observatory every Saturday at 22:00. Fore detailed working hours of planetarium and observatory please call (+385-51) 45 57 00.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+38551) 45 57 00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www.astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10-20kn.

THE ROMAN GATE (STARA VRATA) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD-2, Trg Julija Klovića. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

THE STATUE OF KAMOV (JANKO POLIĆ KAMOV) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF-1, Titov trg.

MUSEUMS CITY MUSEUM OF RIJEKA (MUZEJ GRADA RIJEKE) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.

QD-1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 33 67 11, info@ muzej-rijeka.hr, www.muzej-rijeka.hr. Open 09:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ MODERNE I SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo.

QC-2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ ri.t-com.hr, www.mmsu.hr. Open Mon closed, Tue - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Admission depending on the exhibition.

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Sightseeing PEEK&POKE - CHILDHOOD MUSEUM Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE-1, Ivana Grohovca 2, info@ muzejdjetinjstva.com, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com.

Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

PEEK&POKE - COMPUTER MUSEUM Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE-1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

State Archives in Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board Archives

STATE ARCHIVES IN RIJEKA (DRŽAVNI ARHIV RIJEKA) Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived.QD-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com. hr, www.riarhiv.hr. During exhibitions open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

THE MARITIME AND HISTORY MUSEUM OF THE CROATIAN LITTORAL (POMORSKI I POVIJESNI MUZEJ HRVATSKOG PRIMORJA) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.QD-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp.hr. Open Mon 09:00 - 16:00, Tue - Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town.

It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD-1, Lorenzov prolaz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, info@prirodoslovni.com, www. prirodoslovni.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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Sightseeing THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (SVEUČILIŠNA KNJIŽNICA RIJEKA) The former School for Young Ladies (1887, Giacomo Zammattio) opposite the Hotel Bonavia was converted into the Scientific Library in 1948, and the University Library in 1979.

The main reason to visit is the permanent exhibition of the Glagolitic script. One of the leading collections of this kind in the world, on display are replicas of stone tablets written in this ancient Slavic alphabet, including the Baška tablet from Krk island, one of the most important document of this kind in existence. Together with frescoes, masonry, manuscripts, books and paintings, this exhibition is truly an opportunity to see something very beautiful and very unique to Croatia. Call to make an appointment to view - it’s well worth it. The Museum of Modern Art is on the second floor of the building.QC-2, Dolac 1, tel. (+38551) 33 61 29, www.svkri.uniri.hr. Open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 13:00 with prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

PALACES THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE (GUVERNEROVA PALAČA) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.QD-1, Muzejski trg 1.

THE JADRAN BUILDING (PALAČA ADRIA) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija - yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.

While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.

The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary - look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC-2, Riva.

THE JUDICIAL PALACE (SUDBENA PALAČA) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader.

It looks a bit that way too - raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.

QE-1, Žrtava fašizma.

THE MODELLO BUILDING (PALAČA MODELLO) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE-2, Ivana Zajca.

THE MUNICIPAL PALACE (PALAČA MUNICIPIJA) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.QD-2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

THE PALAZZO (PALAČA KOMUNA) This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.QD-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

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Sightseeing PARKS THE GARDENS OF OUR LADY OF TRSAT (PERIVOJ GOSPE TRSATSKE) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.

QV-2, Trsat.

THE MLAKA PARK (PARK MLAKA) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there.

There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

THE NIKOLA HOSTA PARK (PARK NIKOLE HOSTA) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD-1, Žrtava fašizma.

THE THEATRE PARK (KAZALIŠNI PARK) Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.QE-3, Ivana Zajca.

DOG BEACHES Woof! Woof! Dog owner’s shed delight as 2 beaches have been set aside for our four legged canine friends!

Facilities include special beach access, rubbish bins with PVC rubbish bags and a rubber pipe dog shower.

Please follow and abide all outlined rules.

BRAJDICA, R-3 Pećine IGRALIŠTE, Kantrida 44 Rijeka In Your Pocket

THE VLADIMIR NAZOR PARK (PARK VLADIMIRA NAZORA) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.

RELIGIOUS COLLECTIONS THE COLLECTION OF ST VITUS CATHEDRAL (SAKRALNA ZBIRKA KATEDRALE SV. VIDA) The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here.QE-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

THE PERMANENT COLLECTION OF VOTIVE OFFERINGS (STALNA IZLOŽBA ZAVJETNIH DAROVA) Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered.QU-1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com. Open 08:00 - 11:30, 14:00 - 17:00. Admission free.

THE TREASURY AND GALLERY OF OUR LADY OF TRSAT (RIZNICA I GALERIJA SVETIŠTE GOSPE TRSATSKE) The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU-1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsatsvetiste.com. Open 08:00 - 11:30, 14:00 - 17:00. Admission free.

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Rijeka Surroundings

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives

THE OPATIJA RIVIERA Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key - and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas - many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

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Rijeka Surroundings

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives

ESSENTIAL OPATIJA THE GIRL WITH A SEAGULL Definitely one of the most pictured motifs through which Opatija presents itself to the world is the sculpture of a girl with a seagull on her hand. It was made in 1956 by the sculptor Zvonko Car. It was placed on the same spot where the sculpture of the Madonna used to stand. Originally, the sculpture of the Madonna was put there in memory of Arthur Kesselstadt, who tragically died at sea in 1891. Due to wear and tear from the conditions near the sea, the sculpture had been damaged and was later transferred and restored. It can now be seen in St James’s Church above the Riviera.

VILLA ANGIOLINA Built in 1844 and seen as a landmark in the town’s development as a high-society resort. Fittingly, the high and mighty figures of the populace would relish in the villa surroundings, attending lavish balls and receptions. Highranking guests included the governor of Croatia Josip Jelačić (1851),Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg (1859), and Emperor Franz-Jozef’s mother, the Empress Maria-Ana (1860). The villa now serves as the Museum of Croatian Tourism, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 36 36, www.hrmt.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 10kn - well worth visiting not least because it gives you the chance to peek inside the villa’s ornate entrance hall, complete with intricate mosaic floors, painted ceiling and Corinthian-style columns. Displaying old photographs, antique guide-books and resort posters, the museum itself provides a colourful and entertaining introduction to the history of the travel industry.

FRANZ-JOZEF PROMENADE (ŠETALIŠTE FRANZA JOZEFA-LUNGOMARE) One of the non-negotiable and must do activities in Opatija is to walk at least part of the way along the FranzJozef Promenade, a pedestrian-only path that runs along the shore from Volosko 3km to the north, or in the op46 Rijeka In Your Pocket

posite direction to Lovran 6km to the south. Winding its way above rocky coves and passing the palm-sprouting gardens enriched with beautiful samples of cypress, oak and palm trees as well as ornate pre-World War I villas; the promenade offers fantastic views across the Kvarner Bay to Rijeka, with the lush Gorski Kotar mountains brooding in the background.

OPATIJA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QMaršala Tita 128, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, tic@opatijatourism.hr, www.opatija-tourism.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. July - September 30 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.

CRIKVENICA Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.

Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home.

A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive - as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry).

Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00. July rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 35kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating.

Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

CRIKVENICA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, info@ tzg-crikvenice.hr, www.rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

NOVI VINODOLSKI This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.

You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

NOVI VINODOLSKI TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, info@tznovi-vinodolski.hr, www.tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family - a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the

Bakar Tourist Board Archives

KRK So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

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Rijeka Surroundings cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

KRK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, tic@tz-krk.hr, www.tz-krk.hr. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

CRES The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 48 Rijeka In Your Pocket

and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants. If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

CRES TOURIST BOARD QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, tzg-cresa@ ri.t-com.hr, www.tzg-cres.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

LOŠINJ You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt , or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Surroundings a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil. Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones. The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

RAB TOURIST BOARD QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, info@ rab-visit.com, www.rab-visit.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

MALI LOŠINJ TOURIST BOARD QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 29, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+38551) 23 18 84, losinj@visitlosinj.hr, www.tz-malilosinj. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

RAB Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth.

Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone. Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities. Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline. The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Lošinj Tourist Board Archives

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

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Health Tourism Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing.

Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort.

Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system.

The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today. Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.

Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural environment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

AVAILABLE TREATMENTS A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

CLINICS & HOSPITALS KATUNAR All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.QDr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, info@poliklinikakatunar.hr, www.poliklinika-katunar.hr. A MEDICO State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email.QE-1/2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, medico@medico.hr, www.medico.hr. A 50 Rijeka In Your Pocket

POLIKLINIKA MEDIKOL Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email.QO-3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, pet-ct.ri@medikol.hr, www. medikol.hr. A PRO VITA Full range of specific and general examinations, checkups also available. Full details on website or contact via email.QC-2, Trpimirova 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, poliklinika.pro-vita@ri.t-com.hr, www.poliklinikaprovita.hr. A VILLA ELITE Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic surgery. More info via website.QNova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, zoran. zgaljardic@gmail.com, www.eliteclinic.hr. A ZAMBELLI Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.

QE-1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, dr@mariozambelli.com, www. mariozambelli.com. A

DENTISTS DENTAL STUDIO VUKANOVIĆ A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.QK-3, Lošinjska 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60, info@dental-vukanovic.hr, www.dental-vukanovic.hr. A DENTIN - DR. JASMINKA BOČINA Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.QM-2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, info@ordinacija-bocina.hr, www. ordinacija-bocina.hr. A DENTORIUM Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics. Website has all the information.QD-2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, info@dentorium.hr, www. dentorium.hr. A DENT VITALIS Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry. All details are on their website.QO-3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 68 83 80, hr@dentvitalis.com, www. dentvitalis.com. A DR. BLAŠKOVIĆ Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services.

View their website or contact via phone or email.QR-2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, info@blaskovic.com, www.blaskovic.com. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism DR. JELUŠIĆ Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email.QMatuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, dr@jelusic.com, www.jelusic.com. A DR.KAROLINA KOKIĆ BORIĆ All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website.QIvana Zajca 4/1, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 12 83/(+385-) 091 511 84 44, karolina.kokic.boric@ gmail.com, www.ordinacija-kokic-boric.hr. A KALMAR IMPLANT DENTISTRY All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer.

Visit their web site.QIzviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, info@kalmar.hr, www.kalmar.hr. A PAVLIČEVIĆ - KUSTIĆ Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website.QPreradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22, info@pavlicevic-kustic.hr, www. pavlicevic-kustic.hr. A RIDENT All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information.QM-2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, info@rident. hr, www.rident.hr. A ŠKODADENT Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.QM-2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66, info@skodadent.com, www.skodadent.com.

A SMILE STUDIO Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.QM-2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 78, info@smilestudio.hr, www.smilestudio.hr. A VIADENT Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or phone.QPetra Jurčića 2/A, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35/ (+385-) 091 401 81 10, info@viadent.hr, www.viadent. hr. A

HEALTH & SPA GORDANA POŠČIĆ Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email.QR-3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, info@fizio-gp.hr, www. fizio-gp.hr. A

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LAURANA SPA Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, info@wellness.hr, www.laurana.wellness.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A TERME SELCE If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection.Q1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55, fax (+385-51) 76 83 10, info@terme-selce.hr, www.terme-selce.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A THALASSOTHERAPIA CRIKVENICA Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.QGajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 76 66, fax (+385-51) 78 50 62, info@thalasso-ck.hr, www. thalasso-ck.hr.

THALASSOTHERAPIA OPATIJA The truest expression of Opatija’s famous health tourism it’s connected by heated walkway to the thalassotherapy spa and medical facility. You get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa, beautifully renovated to provide comfortable, tastefully decorated accommodation with a seawater pool and healthy restaurant.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, thalassotherapia-opatija@ri.t-com. hr, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. Open 07:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

WELLNESS COMFORT ZONE SPA & WELLNESS AURORA Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools, facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.

QSunčana uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), www. losinj-hotels.com. A COMFORT ZONE SPACE BONAVIA Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.QC-2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), www.bonavia.hr. A FIVE ELEMENTS WELLNESS & SPA AMBASADOR Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, www.liburnia.hr.

FIVE ELEMENTS WELLNESS & SPA MARINA Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.QAleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, www. liburnia.hr.

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Health Tourism NOVI SPA HOTELS & RESORT The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!QNovi Vinodolski, info@hoteli-novi.hr, www.novi.hr.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments.

In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www. huped.hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine.

Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

FITNESS & BEAUTY KANTRIDA Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs.QJ-3, Istarska bb (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, kantrida@blue-gym. com, www.blue-gym.com. June, September Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A SCIPION Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes.QMilutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 76, mistura@scipion.hr, www.scipion.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun - (fitness). Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Sun - (physiotherapy). A

ORGANIC & NATURAL BIO&BIO Eco/Organic food products, supplements and cosmetics store.QD-2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 32 14 82, ri1@biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A L’OCCITANE Natural French cosmetics from the Provence and Mediterranean region, we recommend immortelle based beauty line for adult skin.QC-2, Korzo 40b, tel. (+385-51) 58 30 32, rijekakorzo@loccitane.hr, www.loccitane.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 52 Rijeka In Your Pocket

LS KOZMETIKA Natural handmade cosmetics used for healing, developed from scented herbs from the Lošinj-Cres archipelago. All products can be found on the island hotels Punta, Aurora and Apoksiomen, as well as in the Muškardin pharmacy.

Qprirodna@lskozmetika.hr, www.lskozmetika.hr.

NIKEL Natural cosmetics line, 61 products, find them in all dmshops and selected pharmacies. More info via website.

Qwww.nikel.com.hr.

HEALTH TOURISM AGENCIES CROATIA MEDICAL TRAVEL QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, info@ croatia-medical-travel.com, www.croatia-medicaltravel.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A

HEALTH INSURANCE CROATIA OSIGURANJE QC-2, Korzo 39, tel. (+385-51) 20 77 77, informacije. rijeka@crosig.hr, www.crosig.hr.

SUNCE OSIGURANJE QD-2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 50 10 04, podruznica-rijeka@ sunce.hr, www.sunce.hr.

UNIQA QD-2, Korzo 11, tel. (+385-51) 35 92 00, info@uniqa.hr, www.uniqa.hr.

FIELD TRIPS BIRDWATCHING In this region there are several sites where you can spot birds.

Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Birdwatching Croatia.

THE DOLPHIN PATH, LOŠINJ ISLAND Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet.org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one!

JOURNEYS THROUGH DOBRINJ, DOBRINJ, KRK ISLAND This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism MOUNT UČKA The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr.

HORSE RIDING, JELENJE Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 25 58 666, kk.vodicajna@gmail.com.

ZELENI VIR AND THE VRAŽJI PROLAZ CANYON, SKRAD The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries. The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz - or the Devil’s Pass.

This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tzskrad.hr.

THE FROG MUSEUM, LOKVE This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight

Kvarner Tourist Board Archives

54 Rijeka In Your Pocket

into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-) 099 305 50 77. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

BRSEČ, NEAR OPATIJA A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.

JADRANOVO, NEAR RIJEKA This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay.

THE RISNJAK NATIONAL PARK, GORSKI KOTAR Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking - as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-51) 83 61 33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr.

LOKVE, GORSKI KOTAR A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name.

The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.tz-lokve.hr.

GO GOURMET The gastronomy of this part of Croatia is based on fresh, simple ingredients: both healthy and highly enjoyable. The cuisine of the coastal belt is, unsurprisingly, Mediterranean in character, and as such is low in saturated fats, with olive oil mainly used in cooking. Olive oil contains monounsaturated oleic acid which may help in keeping arteries healthy.

Herbs such as garlic, parsley, sage, rosemary, bay and others are used to flavour cooking. The Mediterranean diet is varied and includes plentiful seasonal fruits and vegetables. Most families prepare food from fresh ingredients at home. All of this means that people from Croatia’s coast are often enviably healthy. While you’re on the coast, it’s a pity not to enjoy a nice piece of fresh fish. Some of the most common types include orada (sea bream), brancin (sea bass), škarpina (scorpion fish), zubatac (dentex), skuša (mackerel), tuna (meanrijeka.inyourpocket.com

Health Tourism ing obvious!), srdele (sardines) and gavuni (smelt, similar to anchovies). Interestingly, however, just a few kilometres inland the food people prepare is quite different. Up in the hills, you’ll be offered vegetable stews, game, home-made dairy produce, home-smoked meats, hearty winter casseroles with beans, lentils, chickpeas, sour cabbage and pickled beets. Game ranges from rabbit, wild boar and venison to bear steaks. If you get the chance to try venison goulash, do, it’s delicious, and often prepared with cranberries, dried blueberries or prunes. You may come across unusual items such as bear paws (medvjeđa šapa) and the edible dormouse (puh). Throughout the region island lamb is considered a special treat. Alongside the famous cheese from the town of Grobnik (grobnički sir), Croatian smoked prosciutto (pršut) is irresistible. When it comes to desserts, regional specialities include smokvenjak - a cake made from pressed dried figs; presnac made from sheeps’ milk, and cakes made from the sweet juicy chestnuts that the resort of Lovran is famous for (lovranski maruni). Locally, it’s considered a healthy habit to enjoy a drop of wine at the end of your meal -a crisp white žlahtina from Vrbnik on Krk island goes down a treat.

DOBRA VINA For all wine lovers, wide range of Croatian and international wines.QC-2, Riva 20a, tel. (+385-51) 62 75 16, info@ dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A GORANSKA BOROVNICA Family run farm, fresh fruit, homemade teas, soaps, jams, fruit liquors, dry fruits.QBelo selo, Fužine, tel. (+385-) 091 512 47 12, pero.kozlica@ri.t-com.hr, www.goranskaborovnica.com.

GOSPOJA An agricultural collective which has a winery, a highlyregarded restaurant, a pizzeria and a wine-tasting room.

This is a great place to try Krk island specialities, and you can both try and buy their wines and spirits.QFrankopanska 1, Vrbnik, Krk Island, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, info@ gospoja.hr, www.gospoja.hr.

KASTAVSKI SPOMENI Situated in a building over 300 years old, you can find delicacies from the coast; rakija, cheese, marmalades, liquors, olive oil, honey and various handmade souvenirs.

QJurja Vlaha 4, Kastav, tel. (+385-) 098 988 14 14, info@ kastavski-spomeni-to.hr, www.kastavski-spomeni-to. hr. Open 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. MANJON If you’re fond of tucking into a meal of snails, head for the inland village of Rukavac, just north of Opatija, where the Cvjetković family will treat you to home-cooked snails à la bourguignonne, snails cooked in sauce in the Istrian style, snail salami snail paté and more.QRukavac 60, Matulji, tel. (+385-51) 74 24 60/(+385-51) 74 24 61, helicikultura@gmail.com, www.helicikultura.com. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

NATURA RAB Organic products from the island of Rab, olive oil, island delicacies, honey products and oh so more.QBarbat 677, Rab, www.natura-rab.hr.

OPG MAGRIŽ Traditional methods to produce krčki sir (Krk cheese), wine and olive oil.Q17. travanj 9, Kornić, tel. (+385-51) 85 13 51.

OPG PINTAR Offering different cheeses such as čabarski škripavac, činkel cheese, apple juice without additives, herbal liqueurs, blueberry liqueurs etc. Their products can be purchased at the market in Delnice.QNarodnog oslobođenja 23, Čabar, opg.pintar@gmail.com, www.pintar.hr.

RIJEKA FISH MARKET Get in bright and early for that fresh catch in an atmosphere that is vibrant, jovial and dynamic, a true picture of this port city.

SIRANA RUNOLIST Say ‘cheese’! 100% natural with the assorted Lika cheese, škripavac cheese, Velebit cheese, fresh ewe milk cheese, truffles cheese and more. Can be found in the Kvarner region and the Rijeka Market.QŠpilnički odvojak 5, Otočac, tel. (+385-53) 77 11 77, tomaic-commerce@gs.t-com.hr, www.sirana-runolist.com.hr.

TIPS FOR BETTER LIVING 15.06 MONDAY - 30.08 SUNDAY Opatija Camellia - An aphrodisiac that awakens sensuality. Camellia oil is used for massage and the rhapsody of its floral essences help in creating a good mood.

Hot-cold stone - Body massage with hot cold stones which leave a soothing and relaxing affect.

The secret of clay - In anticipation of summer, prepare your skin for that prolonged exposure to the sea and sun by using clay exfoliation and detoxification; both of which help your skin stay healthy and radiant. Clay has a therapeutic effect, filled with antibacterial properties and is a great source of energy.

Flash facial treatment - Hydration and antioxidant activity in 5 steps (cleansing, exfoliation, serum, mask & massage, and finishing cream).

The T-Shock 31- Body Treatment - T-31 is a shock treatment with a compound gel composed of exclusive salts, teas and plants used in combination which cleanses both in and out. It is applied to almost the entire body and detoxifies, rehydrates and rejuvenates.

For more info contact: (+385-51) 20 28 55, recepcija-wellness@tto.hr or visit www.thalassotherapiaopatija.hr Summer 2015

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Shopping SHOPPING CENTRES & MALLS RI DEPARTMENT STORE QD-2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. J TOWER CENTER QS-3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, infotcrijeka@gmail.com, www.tower-center-rijeka. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

ZTC RIJEKA QM-2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www. ztc-shopping.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. W

ANTIQUES MALI NEBODER Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more.

Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC-2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, antikvarijat@ ri.t-com.hr, www.antikvarijat-mali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A TRITON Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.QF-2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+38551) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, triton.antikviteti@ gmail.com. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

ART GALLERIES ARTUM Creative art works by Croatian artists, from jewellery to decorative and useful items is what one can find in this little shop, located next to the wonderful Archaeological Park.QD-2, Stara vrata 6, tel. (+385-51) 31 74 85, artum. ri@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A MALA GALERIJA In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa.

It has been open for more then 40 years, and was the first private tourist gallery in the former Yugoslavia. It has contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE-2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, malagalerija@ri.t-com.hr, www.mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A 56 Rijeka In Your Pocket

BOOKSHOPS ANTIKVARIJAT EX-LIBRIS Second - hand bookshop in a courtyard just off the Riva, offering an absorbing jumble of oddities, including a handful of English - language choices.QD-2, Riva Boduli 3B, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 21, info@ri-exlibris.hr, www.ri-exlibris.hr.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A VBZ A large bookshop in the old town - get yer maps and guidebooks here!QC-2, Korzo 32, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 10, knjizara-rijeka@vbz.hr, www.vbz.hr. Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS FILATELIJA Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.QF1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. ŠTA DA? The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE-2, Užarska 14, happyhobbyri@gmail.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

CROATIAN DESIGN MARI CRO DESIGN STUDIO If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.QD-2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02, t.o.mari@ri.t-com. hr, www.mari-crodesign.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July 21 - August 22 Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A

DELICATESSEN DELIIICIJE Delicacy shop with a Croatian knack that offers national and imported wines, rakija, homemade cakes such as the famous Rapska cake and other savouries.QE-2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, rijeka.korzo@dupin.hr, www. deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A KRAŠ Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms.QE-2, Korzo 2b, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

KUĆA ISTARSKOG PRŠUTA (HOUSE OF ISTRIAN PROSCIUTTO) A new store created by Pik and Pisinium from Pazin combining their knowledge of the preparation of bread products with Croatian’s famous and traditional dried ham, along with local delicacies from Croatia’s coast. It is a unique shop and eatery selling only the best quality indulge yourself!QD-3, Riva Boduli 3 (on the quayside of the port), tel. (+385-51) 21 11 29. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A KUŠAONICA FRAJONA Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC-2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A PAVLOMIR Selling local rakijas - fruit firewaters - try herb and fig.

Also wine sold from the barrel.QUlica Pavlomir 2, Novi Vinodolski, tel. (+385-51) 24 80 33. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

instagram.com/ croatiaiyp facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

PIKO DELICIJE A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE-2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, pik. rijeka@pikrijeka.hr, www.pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A VINOTEKA 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE-3, Demetrova 14a, rijeka@blato1902.hr, www.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A ZELENO I PLAVO - DELICIJE NAŠEGA KRAJA A delectable variety of Croatian goodies from the regions of Gorski Kotar and Primorje led this enchanting store to win several awards. There are so many goodies to choose from, including a huge range of syrups, wines and homemade flavoursome liqueurs. Gastronomical delights include various cheeses, antipasti, seafood, whole prosciutto, jams, honeys, oils and biscuits. Ecological and woollen products make unique gifts. They even have a range of handmade souvenirs or ceramic, bronze, glass and wood designs inspired by the heritage of the aforementioned regions. Literally everything in this store makes a great gift!QC-2, Trpimirova 1A, tel. (+385-51) 32 25 98, zeleno.i.plavo@ri.t-com.hr, www.zelenoiplavo.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Summer 2015

57

Hotels 5 STARS MOZART QMaršala Tita 138, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 82 60, fax (+385-51) 27 17 39, info@hotel-mozart.hr, www. hotel-mozart.hr. 29 rooms (28 doubles €159 - 197, 2 Junior Suites €247 - 295, 1 Presidental Suite €427 577). PZiHAR6UFBKDwW hhhhh REMISENS PREMIUM HOTEL AMBASADOR QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 200 rooms (36 singles €172 - 294, 110 doubles €136 - 234, 7 suites €218 - 372, 9 Family Rooms €194 - 330, 12 Executive Rooms €158 - 270, 8 Executive Suites €194 - 330, 18 Junior Suites €194 - 330). Pi� H A R 6 U I F L E G B K D CwW hhhhh

4 STARS

GRAND HOTEL BONAVIA QC-2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 71 00, fax (+38551) 33 59 69, bonavia@bonavia.hr, www.bonavia. hr. 121 rooms (21 singles €130 - 150, 93 doubles €160 - 205, 6 suites €315, 1 Presidental apartment €650).

PJHAR6FLGBKDW hhhh MIRAMAR QIve Kaline 11, tel. (+385-51) 28 00 00, fax (+38551) 28 00 28, info@hotel-miramar.info, www.hotelmiramar.info. 108 rooms (100 doubles €90 - 185, 4 suites €160 - 275, 4 apartments €442 - 527). PZi� HAR6IFLEGBKDCw hhhh PARK QMaršala Tita 60, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 70 62 00, fax (+385-51) 29 37 91, info@hotelparklovran.hr, www. hotelparklovran.hr. 62 rooms (3 singles €51 - 91, 56 doubles €41 - 85, 3 apartments €58 - 95). PiTHA� RUFGBKDCW hhhh

BEST WESTERN HOTEL JADRAN QS-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 46, tel. (+385-51) 49 40 00/ (+385-51) 49 40 11, fax (+385-51) 21 64 58, jadran@ jadran-hoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (28 singles €82 - 97, 35 doubles €97 - 114, 3 triples €160, 1 suite €245, 2 Junior Suite €144). PHA� RUIGBKW hhhh

REMISENS FAMILY HOTEL MARINA ALL INCLUSIVE LIGHT QAleja Slatina 2, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia. hr, www.liburnia.hr. 182 rooms (18 singles €122 - 210, 48 doubles €100 - 174, 56 Family Rooms €162 - 278, 12 Double Rooms Atrium €86 - 150). PTHAUI� FLEGBKDCW hhhh

BRISTOL QUlica Maršala Tita 108, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 00, fax (+385-51) 70 63 01, info@hotel-bristol.hr, www.hotelbristol.hr. 78 rooms (2 singles €95 - 132, 64 doubles €126 - 173, 2 suites €226 - 263, 10 Junior Suites €176 - 213).

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REMISENS HOTEL ADMIRAL QMaršala Tita 139, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 181 rooms (31 singles €142 - 242, 126 doubles €114 - 198, 18 apartments €178 - 354, 6 Captain Rooms €140 - 240). PiHAR6UIFLEGB� KDCwW hhhh

DESIGN HOTEL ASTORIA QUlica Maršala Tita 174, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, fax (+385-51) 70 63 51, info@hotel-astoria.hr, www.hotelastoria.hr. 50 rooms (46 singles €89 - 125, 46 doubles €119 - 163, 3 suites €219 - 253, 1 Junior Suite €169 - 203).

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REMISENS PREMIUM & ROMANTIC VILLA AMBASADOR QFeliksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 49 rooms (18 singles €162 - 276, 19 doubles €126 - 216, 12 suites €178 - 302). PiHA� R6UIFLGBKDCW hhhh

DRAGA DI LOVRANA QLovranska Draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66/(+385-) 099 814 55 00, fax (+385-51) 29 18 26, info@dragadilovrana.hr, www.dragadilovrana.hr. 7 rooms (6 doubles €80 - 90, 1 apartment €200 - 520).

PAR6LGBKDW hhhh GRAND HOTEL ADRIATIC QMaršala Tita 200, tel. (+385-51) 71 90 00, fax (+38551) 71 90 25, info@hotel-adriatic.hr, www.hoteladriatic.hr. 167 rooms (21 singles €80 - 130, 139 doubles €88 - 225, 7 suites €250). PiOTHARUG� BKDCW hhhh 58 Rijeka In Your Pocket

REMISENS REVITAL HOTEL KRISTAL QMaršala Tita 135, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 130 rooms (33 singles €116 - 200, 97 doubles €90 - 156). PiHAR6UIFLGKD� CW hhhh SAVOY QMaršala Tita 129, tel. (+385-51) 71 05 00, fax (+385-51) 27 26 80, info@hotel-savoy.hr, www.hotel-savoy.hr. 32 rooms (2 singles €92 - 112, 20 doubles €124 - 164, 8 Superior Double €148 - 190, 2 Presidential Suite €230 - 270).

PiOHARLGBKDCW hhhh rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Hotels VILLA ASTRA QViktora Cara Emina 11, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 44 00, fax (+385-51) 29 46 00, sales@hotelvillaastra.com, www.hotelvillaastra.com. 6 rooms (6 doubles €210 316). PiARLGBKCW hhhh

OPATIJA QTrg Vladimira Gortana 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 88, fax (+385-51) 27 13 17, info@hotel-opatija.hr, www.hotelopatija.hr. 200 rooms (84 singles €43 - 79, 116 doubles €57 - 102). PTHAR6LBKC hh

3 STARS

VILLA AMALIA QPava Tomašića 2/2, Opatija (Hotel Kvarner), tel. (+38551) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@ liburnia.hr, www.liburnia.hr. 31 rooms (1 single €72 128, 30 doubles €54 - 98). HA6ILEGB� KDCW hh

CONTINENTAL QF-1, Šetalište Andrije Kačića-Miošića 1, tel. (+385 51) 37 20 08, fax (+385-51) 37 20 09, kontinental@jadranhoteli.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 69 rooms (13 singles €72, 50 doubles €90, 1 triple €122, 4 suites €110, 1 Junior Suite €151). A6K hhh IMPERIAL QMaršala Tita 124/3, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 127 rooms (24 singles €90 - 158, 103 doubles €70 - 122). PHA6IGBKW hhh ISTRA QMaršala Tita 143, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+385-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 130 rooms (28 singles €92 - 162, 102 doubles €72 - 126). PTA6GBKCW hhh LOVRAN QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 12 22, fax (+385-51) 29 24 67, office@hotel-lovran. hr, www.hotel-lovran.hr. 56 rooms (7 singles €32 56, 46 doubles €54 - 134, 3 suites €94 - 166). Pi� HA6BKDwW hhh NEBODER QF-1, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 49 31 40/(+38551) 49 32 00, fax (+385-51) 49 32 99, neboder@jadranhotel.hr, www.jadran-hoteli.hr. 54 rooms (8 singles €63 - 68, 46 doubles €79 - 85). PJHA6IL� GK hhh VILLA ARISTON QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, fax (+385-51) 27 14 94, info@villa-ariston.hr, www.villaariston.hr. 10 rooms (2 singles €48 - 65, 6 doubles €89 - 113, 1 Presidential Suite €186 - 253, 1 Junior Suite €133 - 173). PHAILGBKW hhh

2 STARS BELVEDERE QIve Kaline 7, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 04 44, fax (+3855-51) 71 03 99, reservations@liburnia.hr, www. liburnia.hr. 95 rooms (13 singles €80 - 140, 82 doubles €62 - 110). A6ILEGBKDCW hh

HOSTELS BOTEL MARINA QC-2/3, Adamićev gat bb, tel. (+385-51) 41 01 62/(+385) 098 25 82 20, info@botel-marina.com, www.botelmarina.com. 35 rooms (1 single €37 - 43, 12 doubles €25 - 28, 7 triples €20 - 24, 12 quads €17 - 21, 3 Dorm: €15 - 19). PiJHA6ULKW hhh DHARMA QT-3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-51) 56 21 08/(+385) 095 844 95 67, info@dharmahostels.com, www. dharmahostels.com/hr. (6 doubles 25L, 2 triples 22L, 2 Dorm: 18L). PiA6GW KOSY QE-2, Užarska 1, tel. (+385-) 091 361 28 91, hostelkosy@ gmail.com, www.hostelkosy.com. 17 dorm beds, 135 180kn per person. PJA6GW YOUTH HOSTEL RIJEKA QR/S-3, Šetalište XIII divizije 23, tel. (+385-51) 40 64 20, fax (+385-51) 40 64 21, rijeka@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs. hr. 13 rooms, 61 dorm beds, 10.70 - 37€ per person.

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CAMPING AUTOCAMP DRAGA QAleja Slatina bb, Mošćenićka Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 23, fax (+385-51) 73 73 39, info@autocampdraga. com, www.autocampdraga.com. Person / per day 39 56kn, Children 26 - 37kn, Tent 29 - 47kn, Car 24 - 37kn, Camping trailer 34 - 52kn, Camper 47 - 66kn, Pets 22 34kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn. W hhh PRELUK QG-3, Preluk 1, tel. (+385-51) 62 35 00/(+385-) 098 44 62 60, info@autocamp-preluk.com, www.autocamppreluk.com. Person / per day 39 - 59kn, Children 20 - 39kn, Tent 25 - 35kn, Car 25 - 39kn, Camping trailer 33 - 69kn, Pets 40 - 50kn, Accomodation tax 3.5 - 7kn.

A6W

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Summer 2015

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RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art štansko and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace Maritime pristaništ e City Museum Bečko pr istanište Natural History Museum Palace of Justice St. Vitus’ Church St. Sebastian’s Church Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” Old Town Hall in Rijeka Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower “Modello” Palace Main market Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas City Tower “Ploech” Palace Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery Railway station P/B “Uragan” State archives Rijeka

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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

II

Splitska

Nikole Te sle

Alessandra Manzonia

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Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1

Studentska

A

Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3

I.Rendić

Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2

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riva

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Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

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RJ

Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

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61

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TAXI LOKACIJE TAXI RANK / TAXISTAND / POSTEGGIO TAXI / STATION DE TAXIS

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