Dubrovnik In Your Pocket No22

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Dubrovnik Summer 2017

Konavle

Ancient Culture and Gastronomic Paradise

N°22 - complimentary copy dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Inventors Great Minds from a Small Country

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s On

7

You won’t be bored

Croatian Inventors 16 How they influeneced the world

Restaurants

19

Spicing things up

Local Flavour

34

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes 38 Giving you a slice of the pie

Nightlife

40

Are you ready to party

Sightseeing

46

Discover what we’ve uncovered

Konavle Region 55 Your escape from the crowds

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Stroll patiently along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch mullets with locals in a competition called Cipolijada. Read more on a page 10

Leisure 57

Out and about

65

Recreational pleasure

Shopping

67

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Where to stay

71

Accommodation categories in Croatia

Arrival & Getting Around

72

Lost? Help is at hand

Dubrovnik Basics

75

The A-Z of Dubrovnik

Maps & Street Register Street Register

76

City Centre Map

77

City Map Dubrovnik County Map

78 80

Beat the tourist crowds and learn more about the shortcuts locals use daily...

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Summer 2017

5

Foreword Dear travellers, Do you know how good you have it right here in Dubrovnik? You can drop off your luggage, grab your towels, and head for the sea as soon as you arrive, you can sip coffee or drink cocktails under palm trees all day long. Yet, this wasn’t the case for visitors back in the 15th century; due to the building of the Minčeta tower where there was a short supply of stone it was decreed that every visitor to the city had to bring a stone in accordance with their body’s constitution. Imagine that! Thankfully, we won’t have you do as much; if you build anything, it will probably be some nifty sandcastles at most.

On that note we welcome you to the Jewel of the Adriatic, the fortified city of Dubrovnik, one of the ten best preserved medieval walled cities in the world. Summer is peak season with many tourists flocking to see the city, and we at IYP are here to help your stay be better than OK! Our feature summer edition is compact with a lot of handy information to help you get around. We have a feature on the Konavle region, a location you shouldn’t miss if you want to truly experience nature. We will also introduce you some great Croatian minds and their inventions, which are used worldwide.

It can get extremely hot here so make sure you ‘slip, slap and slop’ that sun cream, make sure you see as much of Dubrovnik as you can, and make sure you take the time to sit and appreciate the beautiful surroundings you have found yourselves in. From us all here at IYP, we wish you a super summer stay!

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Nikola Badovinac, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research & Community Manager Tea Bikić Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives, Othello at Lovrjenac Fort Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac, Tea Bikić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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What’s On

Photo by Neven Fazinić & Ivan Grbin, Korčula Tourist Board Archives

CLASSICAL CONCERTS 01.04 - 01.11 » SORKOČEVIĆ QUARTET CANDLELIGHT CONCERTS

What could be a more pleasurable treat than a candle-lit classical concert in the atmospheric surroundings of the St Savior’s Church right on the Stradun?QB‑2, Church of St Saviour, Placa bb. 21:00 Every Monday.

21.06 05:00 » ANA U GRADU

Ana Rucner is a vivacious top class cellist recognisable for her neo-modern style of playing thus bringing the classical music genre closer to a younger audience. All this is accompanied by her attractive stage performance and this is your chance to welcome summer in a very different way, with an early sunrise, surrounded by nature and a great musical performance.Qwww.anarucner.com.

EXHIBITIONS 08.04 - 09.07 » FROM A ROMAN HOUSE TO THE VLAHO BUKOVAC BIOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM

See the physical transformation of the city of Cavtat from ancient times to now and in particular to the home of one of Croatia’s greatest painters Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922).

The exhibit shows the renovation of his home - a rounded family space, first through various temporal and sociological aspects, and then from a private, closed aspect intended for the use and needs of a family, to a public museum space. Council papers, official documents and more encompass this exhibit.QBukovac House, Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.kuca-bukovac.hr.

Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

01.04 - 15.07 » ALESSIO ROMENZI - PROTECTIVE EDGE: GAZA 2014

Renowned Italian photographer comes for a display of his stunningly tragic work from the 2014 Israel-Gaza conflict.

QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

27.01 - 01.06 » LEPIDOPTERA

Dubrovnik’s Natural History Museum got a much needed boost earlier this year with a rich butterfly exhibition as part of the international The Night of Museums. Visitors are encouraged to visit the museum and see the hundreds of samples of butterflies from the whole Dubrovnik-Neretva county.QC‑4, Dubrovnik Natural History Museum, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88. Open 10:00 17:00. Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

01.04 - 30.10 » THE END OF YUGOSLAVIA

T​ he expression every picture tells a story has its merit.

This permanent collection of images presents some of the world’s leading photojournalists that covered the breakup of the former Yugoslavia - from Croatia, through to Bosnia and Kosovo. Photographs by Ron Haviv, Alexandra Boulat, Darko Bandić, Jan Grarup, Claus Bjorn Larsen, Yannis Behrakis, Chris Morris, Emmanuel Ortiz, Peter Northall, Tarik Samarah, Wade Goddard, Ziyah Gafic and Jon Jones are included. Multimedia video included.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

pinterest.com/inyourpocket Summer 2017

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What’s On FESTIVALS 15.06 - 18.06 » LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE

Beauty motivates, nature heals, love saves! The splendour of this small festival lies in the exquisiteness of very unique art forms which are nurtured at this cultural event; whether through poetry, acting or dancing, Le Petit Festival du Theatre will never leave you uninspired nor does it disappoint.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www. lepetitfestival.com.

Le Petit Festival Archives

18.05 - 17.07 » NATURE – LABORATORY OF COLOURS: TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGY KNOWLEDGE

The exhibition represents traditional knowledge methods of using and extracting dye from minerals, plants, vegetables and animals. It is based on research conducted in the extreme south of the Croatian peninsula and Konavle during 2015 and 2016. It is a guest exhibition from Zagreb Tehcnical Museum Nikola Tesla.QB‑3, Ethnographic Mu‑ seum Rupe, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www. dumus.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Tue.

08.06 - 30.07 » LJUBO IVANČIĆ

28.06 - 19.08 » ORSULA FESTIVAL

After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church, as of 2011 Dubrovnik has gained a new summer stage for this festival which hosts various Croatian and international musical performers throughout the summer. There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum from this amphitheatre which holds 250 seats and is set on a 200 metre high cliff above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or short ride by the No.10 bus. A perfect combination of location and excellent music puts this Festival on everybody’s to-do list! Q www. orsula-festival.com.

A thematic solo exhibition by Ljubo Ivančić will showcase self-portraits next to an easel, as an important topic persistent during his work as a painter. Many such acts can be found in the legacy of Ljubo Ivančić and interpreted in alternate ways, and not only by what is shown. By thoroughly knowing the work of this extraordinary artist, one can easily notice his affinity with artists from art history, especially the dominant influence of Velazquez. There are also shades of Vermeer, Goya, Rembrandt, Courbet and Picasso, to name but a few.QL‑5, Dubrovnik Art Gal‑ lery, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www. ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

15.07 - 31.08 » EKO ART FESTIVAL

15.06 - 30.07 » ZENAIDA BANDUR

If food and wine is right up your alley, then come on down to the Orebić waterfront for a culinary delight! Every Thursday from June 15, rich local cuisine that is typically Mediterranean will be presented and tip top Pelješac wines will help wash the down the food. This serene fishing town is a tiny oasis and the Dalmatian music in the background makes for enchanting evenings.Qwww. visitorebic-croatia.hr. Every Thursday.

Breaking borders, Zenaida Bandur was a female painter of the early 20th century and in homage to some of the lesser known artists of the city, the Dulčič Masle Pulitika Gallery will feature her landscapes, genre scenes, sacral scenes, portraits, and paintings of nature in both oil and watercolour format.QD‑3, The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/ Ronald Brown Memorial House, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

15.07 - 31.10 » MARIA TURCHENKOVA - YEMEN

Two years of conflict in Yemen has devastated the country leaving millions of people in need of humanitarian help.

Photographer Maria Turchenkova was one of the few journalists who had entered the country during this period and her images give an insight into this humanitarian catastrophe which the mainstream media has considered as unimportant.QC‑2, War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

8 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

For many people nature and art go hand in hand and this is the first Eco Art Festival in Croatia. It features a series of educational and creative workshops held in five terms during July and August across various locations throughout the island which should enable participants to explore and build personal creativity through socialising and entertainment, as well as help raise awareness of nature conservation.Qwww.mljet.hr.

FOOD & DRINK 15.06 - 14.09 » FLAVOURS OF PELJEŠAC

29.06 - 02.07 » KINOOKUS - THE FOOD FILM FESTIVAL

The art of cinema offers a food frenzy as this international film festival preserves and promotes issues relating to food, traditional recipes, food customs, tools, bio-diversity, ecology, nutrition, and more. In its 8th edition, it serves up a smorgasbord of film and motion picture with the theme being Jedenjaci - a journey through Dubrovnik’s gastro-heritage. All six sections of the festival will deal with the revitalisation of the rich heritage of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as well as its cultural, social, and economic potential and significance.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On 07.07 » CIPOLIJADA

Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-honoured tradition in the Neretva region. During the summer months, fishermen patiently sit along the banks of the green and clean Neretva River and catch this fish which can then be prepared into a variety of dishes. At the end of the summer a competition in catching mullets called ‘Cipolijada’ is held.

The competition continues into the night with a “Fishing Night” of music and dancing, during which time the fish are prepared, cooked, and eaten.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

23.07 » KORČULA WINE FESTIVAL - BLACK ISLAND WHITE WINES Olafur Eliasson and David Adjaye, Your black horizon, Art Pavilion, 2005

With a millennia old tradition of wine making, the island of Korčula is renowned above all for the quality of its white wines (Pošip and Rukatac), whereas among the reds the most popular is Plavac Mali. These wines are celebrated for their exquisite character, complexity, and accentuated aromas which reflect the Mediterranean sunshine, scents and tastes. So, to all wine connoisseurs, get ready to dabble!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

28.07 - 06.08 » THE 7TH POŠIP DAYS IN ČARA AND SMOKVICA

When wine is fine, nobody minds! And the towns of Smokvica and Čara on Korčula have a well-known tradition in wine growing and wine production dating from ancient Greek times. Pošip is among the most famous Croatian white wines. It is named after the authentic grape varieties only found in these areas. So if you happen to be close by, visit some of the wineries and feel free to partake in the art of wine tasting.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

11.08 » THE NIGHT OF WINE

Stanko Herceg’s Photo Exhibition “View from the window” will be held in Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery August 3rd - September 17th

THE LINĐO FOLK ENSEMBLE 02.05 - 31.10 The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you every Tuesday and Friday during the tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performances with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July 10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr/. 21:30 Every Tuesday & Friday.

The Pelješac peninsula is known for its wineries and produces some of the most exquisite wines Croatia has to offer. That is why a lot of events here celebrate this fine nectar. On this very night, all visitors will be able to enjoy local Mediterranean dishes with wine as the best appetiser, this time in the town of Trpanj!Qwww.tzo-trpanj.hr.

13.08 » MAKARUNADA

This is an event in the village of Žrnovo (3km from the town of Korčula). It begins with a workshop on how to make makaruni, a particular home-made pasta native to the locals, then comes cooking for the masses as the food is served with a meaty sauce to all those gathered. Live outdoor entertainment is provided in an authentic Mediterranean atmosphere!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

15.08 » MLJET’S HIDDEN CORNERS

Ethno culinary event that connects several manifestations of the same character into one and held exclusively in the old villages of the island. Local housewives use fresh ingredients to prepare and present local delicacies, brandies and wines. There is live music, folklore, old photographs and crafts, and even some records playing. It’s as if time stops for a moment, and so let it be!Qwww.mljet.hr.

www.inyourpocket.com 10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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What’s On

Uncertain Glory, Kino Mediteran

OPERA 30.06 - 04.07 » DUBROVNIK INTERNATIONAL OPERA ARIAS FESTIVAL HOMMAGE ‘TINO PATTIERA’

If opera moves you, fulfils you, inspires you, then the beginning of July will grace you. As always, the festival brings back to life some of the best arias ever written and will be performed by some of the finest and most respected opera artists of our day. All this in memory of the world famous Croatian tenor, Tino Pattiera!QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www. dubrovnik-opera-festival.com.

SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS EVENTS 01.05 - 30.09 » ART PAVILION - YOUR BLACK HORIZON

After its huge success at the Venetian Biennal, the T-BA21 foundation chose the rich and ancient island of Lopud as home to its modern Pavilion. This windowless pavilion presents a thin horizontal line of light, which endlessly runs around the dark given space. Bear witness to how the light naturally changes its spectrum from sunrise to sunset.

Qwww.tba21.org.

16.06 - 28.09 » SWORD DANCE FESTIVAL

This event presents and preserves a rich heritage of sword dancing on the island of Korčula. Set in original ambience, several of Korčula’s sword dance societies (moreška, kumpanija and moštra) during summer season perform their type of chain dance with swards dating back as early as the 12th century. Come and see this amazing battle dances that carries the universal message of good overcoming bad. This year’s opening will host guests from England, Sallyport Sword Dancers.Qwww.visitkorcula.eu. Every Mon, Thu, Fri. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

20.06 - 12.09 » THE CAVTAT SUMMER

Every summer, this marvellous cultural event brings the beautiful ancient town of Cavtat to life with an array of musical and dance performances (jazz, classical, Dalmatian klape and folk groups). The highlight of the event is the Cavtat Summer Carnival which takes place on the first weekend in July. All the events are for free.Qwww.visit. cavtat-konavle.com.

30.06 18:00 » MASQUERADE CELEBRATION OF THE HALF NEW YEAR’S EVE

It isn’t exactly New Year’s Eve but we’re half way there. You bet, this traditional event has been held since 2001 and is celebrated with a maquerade carnival parade through the streets of the city of Korčula. It attracts a large number of guests with an entertaining programme that keeps visitors goinig well after midnight. May the countdown begin!Qwww.visitkorcula.eu.

01.07 - 31.08 » SUMMER ON THE ELAPHITE ISLANDS, ZATON AND ORAŠAC

Enchanting Mediterranean melodies and traditional folklore festivities have been cherished for centuries on the Elaphite Islands near Dubrovnik, and this musical and cultural event has for a number of years been entertaining the visitors. Folklore dancing, Dalmatian klape and classical concerts are just some of the things held on the islands of Koločep, Lopud, Šipan and in Zaton and Orašac.QElaph‑ ite Islands, Koločep, Lopud, Šipan, Zaton, Orašac, www. tzdubrovnik.hr.

01.07 - 02.07 » CAVTAT SUMMER CARNIVAL

Rio, eat your heart out! Welcome to a carnival atmosphere that has a 100 year tradition. Be what you wanna be in the first week of July. Locals and guests go all out and dress in costume, glitter and glare. Stages big and small are aplenty with live bands, street entertainers, jugglers, performers, and folk and a cappella groups that turn the whole town into a magical haven.Qwww.visit.cavtat-konavle.com.

Summer 2017

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What’s On 02.07 21:30 » KLAPA CAMBI

Hailed by many as the best male acapella vocal in the country, Klapa Cambi bring to life a broad range of new and hallowed Dalmatian evergreens that reach the hearts of most listeners. Songs of love, romance, the sea, sand, rocks, olives, wine and everything Mediterranean, this choir sing with and without instruments, and a freshness like no other. Sobra, Mljet IslandQwww.mljet.hr.

10.07 - 25.08 » 68TH DUBROVNIK SUMMER FESTIVAL

17.07 » JUMPING INTO THE NERETVA

A “jumping competition” that attracts a large number of viewers is held next to the Lučki most (harbour bridge) in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut, and jumping from small and large diving boards. Competitors include children, the young and the old. Special attention is paid to the “craziest jump” category.Qwww. tzmetkovic.hr.

One of the oldest European festivals with over 80 national and international music, theatre and dance performances shown over 7 sizzling summer weeks. In its 68th edition, this event has all the grandeur with renaissance venues such as the Lovrjenac Fort, Revelin Fort, in front of the St. Blaise’s Church, Stradun, Lazareti and the Rector’s Palace that bestow a captivating ambience. 2000 artists will show you how the Old City turns into a stage.QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa, www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

28.07 » ROMAN NIGHT

14.07 - 16.07 » MARCO POLO FEST

10.08 - 12.08 » DAYS OF THE NERETVA PRINCIPALITY

Step back in time and celebrate at this festival of song and wine, it was established in honour of Marco Polo who was born on the island. The 3 day event begins with a ‘wine fiesta’, the second evening is dedicated to ‘pop melodies’ whilst the finale is fittingly titled ‘melodies of Marco Polo’.

Wine from all over the world is sampled so dig in for some fine wine tasting and fun.Qwww.marcopolofest.hr.

In the village of Vid, near Metković, is the ancient remains of the Roman city of Narona. For one night only, Romans will rampage once again with the staging of market slaves and gladiator fights, see ancient crafts such as coinage, pottery made on potter’s wheel, wooden toys, or even visit a Roman cosmetician or hair sylist.Exotic dancers, fire jugglers and delicious Roman cuisine make the night all the more special.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

The Neretva area is a valley with a lenghty river and marshes, it has a long tradition of agriculture as it was “the” major source of life. For three days the entire area rises to the occasion of recalling the ways of their “dide i babe”, or grandmas ans grandpas. It prepares locals for the biggest event

Jumping into the Neretva, Photo by Marin Veraja, Metković Tourist Board Archives

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

of the year in the “Boat Marathon” and there is a fair of traditional crafts, rural games, homemade produce, costumed plays and more...Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

12.08 » THE NERETVA BOAT (LAĐA) MARATHON

Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat, an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing competition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. maraton-ladja.hr.

THEATRE 24.06 - 05.07 » MIDSUMMER SCENE SHAKESPEARE’S A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM

Shakespeare’s entertaining comedy is set to unravel on stage at the magical Lovrjenac tower this summer. An international cast will perform the play which is filled with love affairs and false identities that all amount to the pinnacle question of ‘What is love?’ Performed in English, the play coincides with the 450th anniversary of Croatia’s greatest Comedy writer, Marin Držić.QK‑3, Lovrijenac Fortress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, www.midsummer-scene.com. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

REVELIN FORTRESS Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Dubrovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.

The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a virtual museum.

The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furniture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and imposts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine order in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from the 8th and 12th century.

The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial Development and Foundry presents how the very building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict its 15th and 16th century construction as well as findings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.

Any public-construction in the city at the time was put on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en/. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed. Unified ticket.

Summer 2017

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What’s On

Shakespeare’s Twelfth Nigth, Midsummer Scene

FILM

CLUB NIGHTS

12.07 - 27.09 » TASTE A DIFFERENT CINEMA

10.08 - 14.08 » REVELIN FESTIVAL

You won’t see Hollywood blockbusters here, but you will see some impressive movies and documentaries that are not so commercial. The Slavica Cinema is home to this film festival which is only held on Wednesdays and has in recent times gathered lots of film lovers. The publication of the book ABC film will be an added feature to this year’s addition.Q www.kinookus.com.hr

04.08 - 14.08 » SUMMER FILM SCHOOL ŠIPAN

Along with the island’s film festival, workshops are held for kids under the mentorship of distinguished film proffessionals. Kids from the island as well as visitors produce their own films aech summer and screen them in the open theatre under the stars. We just might find the next Spielberg here! Šipan islandQwww.sipan-film.com.

23.08 - 30.08 » THE MARCO POLO FILM FESTIVAL

This festival is inspired by the life of the traveller Marco Polo who is believed to have been born in Korčula, and particularly his travels on the Silk Road. The festival organisers believe that the Silk Road was not just a trade route but a conduit for understanding and therefore tolerance among all the peoples who used it. The themes of the festival are thus the Silk Road and cultural dialogue, and the grand prize of the festival goes to the best film that promotes peace and tolerance.Qwww.marcopolofilmfestival. com.

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Electro grooves will once again pelt out from Culture Club Revelin. Top world DJs will mix and remix for five days in the majestic five hundred years old Revelin Fortress where some of the scenes of the hugely popular ‘Game of Thrones’ series were filmed.QE‑1, Culture Club Revelin, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Revelin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin.com.

KINO MEDITERAN A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular we mourn the loss of open air cinemas which offered the particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino Mediteran has for five years now been reinstituting cinemas Dalmatia, with cinemas in 30 towns open during the summer, and 10 of those open throughout the year.

The films on show are the best of European and world cinema, including a programme for children and titles from current film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project grow and grow!QKino Mediteran Korčula, Kino Mediteran Lastovo, Kino Mediteran Goveđari (Mljet), www.kinomediteran.hr. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives

Croatian Inventors GREAT MINDS FROM A SMALL COUNTRY

Croatian Inventors

By Andrea Pisac If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness gene, Croatia would rank extremely high. This small country of no more than 4.5 million people has advanced the world in all major spheres of life. Croatian inventors have dreamed up ingenious abstract concepts and have also created hands-on solutions that we use in everyday life.

Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” with his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala whose pen allows us to sign our name – physically on paper and metaphorically as a legacy.

Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most geniuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our biggest civilizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being rescued from oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned by the physicist Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s theory of relativity by 200 years.

What better way to connect to your travel destination than to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s major innovators.

Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was not until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it.

Many think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute.

But the revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) concept was actually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Vrančić.

In his masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice 1615), this genius polymath depicted 56 different machines, devices, and technical concepts. Many were bridges, mills and turbines. Next time you admire San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Bridge, remember that the suspension bridge was Vrančić’s brainchild.

The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested.

It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from St Mark’s Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to finally conquer the sky.

Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet.

But when you pick them up in your seasoned years, think of the mathematician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This Dubrovnik-born colleague of Galileo Galilei set the stage for modern day optics. A pioneer in building conic lenses, he would retire into the so called Bete’s cave outside the Dubrovnik city walls and conduct his experiments with mirrors.

The parabolic mirror he built still survives and is kept at the National Maritime Museum in London. Again, a parabolic mirror may not sound like much. But next time you tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, remember, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications.

Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are the abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

show but they forever change the way we see the world.

This is why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Dubrovnik-born mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher – the father of modern physics.

His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory of Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains supermodern theories that were proven and embraced only two centuries later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny particles, today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space.

The true meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be lost to a layperson. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity – the biggest discovery of the 20th century – and remember that it wouldn’t have been possible without Bošković’s ideas.

But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical solutions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome and setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan.

Ivan Lupis (1813-1875) Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technological breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian navy officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden with explosives.

The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly caught the attention of the English engineer Robert Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most important military resources in both World Wars.

Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925) Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows.

On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for an ID for example.

Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who later emigrated to Argentina and became the director of the Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892 Vučetić made the first positive identification of a criminal based on a bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of fingerprinting classification became the golden standard in CSIs around the world.

Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what happens every day when you turn your lights switch on!

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Croatian Inventors The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later, Penkala also created the fountain pen.

These writing accessories became so popular that Penkala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the PenkalaMoster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an establishment with a cult status.

If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by which we leave our mark and our signature in the world.

Fausto Veranzio Homo Volans, plate n. 38 from Machinae Novae, book published in Venice, 1616, Wikipedia

His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was initially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the system of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when you flip through TV channels.

His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the controversy here?

But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Tesla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man changed the planet as probably no one before or after him.

And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla!

David Schwarz (1850-1897) When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was an important step in designing airships which could be controlled by engine-driven propellers.

Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it happened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zeppelin bought Schwarz’s patent from his widow, the reason why the airship is named after him.

Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the number of times you put your signature on a document.

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost food company Podravka.

In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried vegetables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt to reproduce the product, and there were many, was successful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of Vegeta.

Tomislav Uzelac Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the portable music library to get closer to his estranged daughter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity.

The first successful MP3 player was invented by the Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research about music file compression carried out in Germany and came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3 player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of you have had it installed on your computers.

The newest inventions There is a new generation of savvy Croatian programmers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art devices. You will come across at least two of them while you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text message and charge your mobile device on a solar-powered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone has 20 of them installed across the city.

When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

CROATIAN BISTRO GLORIJET Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible prices. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. (+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). P­T­A­6­U­G­W BISTRO TAVULIN Located behind St. Blaise Church, this restaurant offers a shady spot to rest during a hot summer day. They offer some special dishes not found in other restaurants, such as Creamy Barley with Adriatic Shrimp, Octopus Ragout

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and Beef Cheeks. For dessert, St. Blaise Soil is a must-try. As an additional plus, they offer free wi-fi so you can catch up with your family and friends as you enjoy a delicious meal in this ancient setting.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+38520) 32 39 77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

(100 - 170kn). P­J­G­B­X­W DUBRAVKA 1836 RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac Fortress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterranean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an additional bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160kn). P­i­A­U­G­B­W KAVANA TEATAR Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts.

This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel. (+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 01:00. (35 - 90kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­S­W

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Restaurants KOMIN The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weaponry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurantkomin.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 130kn). P­T­ A­6­L­G­B­X­W KOPUN Situated at the top of a long flight of steps, next to the Jesuit Church, this restaurant features food from all across Croatia, and when we say all over, we mean all over; every notable region is represented on the menu. As their name suggests their specialty is the kopun, or capon to you and me, and they also have local beer on tap. Service is delivered with smiles in abundance, and this is a great spot for a romantic meal, far from any loud pubs or cafes.QC‑4, Pol‑ jana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.restaurantkopun. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­ G­B­X­W MIMOZA In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimozadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 120kn). P­i­ T­A­E­G­B­X­W ORHAN Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00 23:30. (80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W ZOE Located on the rocky south-western tip of the Babin kuk peninsula (and a pleasant 15-minute walk from Lapad bay along the coastal path), Zoe is an excellent place at which to sample choice local food on a lovely sea-facing terrace.

As well as grilled fish pure-and-simple there’s a healthy sprinkling of traditional country recipes, such as roast duck breast, or stewed frogfish with sage. Starters like breaded frogs’ legs or risotto with boletus mushrooms will probably suffice as a lunchtime main course. Prices are per evening menu.QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+38520) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (160 - 220kn). P­A­L­G­B­W

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ETHNIC CANTINA MEXICANA CHIHUAHUA This rather pleasant Mexican serves up all the usuals: sizzling fajitas, burritos, tacos and chimichangas, plus ribs, wings and steaks. Open all year round it provides an ideal alternative for anyone looking for a satisfying meal, be they a local looking to shy away from the traditional Mediteranean fare, or a tourist simply craving something a bit different.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 2b, tel. (+38520) 42 44 45/(+385-) 098 58 28 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00.

(55 - 130kn). P­V­N­B­S­W INCREDIBLE INDIA Authentic Indian cuisine has finally made its way to Dubrovnik! Located on a narrow side street off of Stradun, this restaurant offers a cozy atmosphere between the cool stone walls. The orange coloured walls, decorated with pictures of India, create a traditional Indian feel. They offer dishes from all over the Indian subcontinent and use only the freshest ingredients. Enjoy some chicken tandoori and prawn masala with a side of saffron rice or garlic naan. To drink, try some traditional Indian masala tea or sweet lassi.

Reservations are recommended ahead of time as seats fill up quickly.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 6, tel. (+385-20) 31 27 43, www.incredibleindiadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 23:00. (75 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­B­S­W MEX CANTINA BONA FIDE Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables creating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls.

They offer tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide variety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 095 885 27 92. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. P­T­J­A­6­U­ G­B­S­W TAJ MAHAL First things first, the food isn’t Indian but Bosnian though the immaculate décor has an Eastern influence. Back to what’s important, the cuisine. Expect a cross-cultural fusion of East meets West with fresh ingredients priority one.

Homemade flatbread is a must; top sellers include čevapi, meat platters, lamb stew, shish-kebabs, soups, house wine and more. Their authentic Turkish coffee is the best way to winddown. Also at Iva Vojnovića 14, Hotel Lero.QC‑3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (90 - 200kn). T­A­6­G­B­S­W TAKENOKO Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japanese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the ambiance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en/. Open 18:00 - 23:30.

(87 - 185kn). dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

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Restaurants INTERNATIONAL LA CASTILE This restaurant is part of the Royal Princess Hotel and offers a variety of top-quality local seafood and meat dishes. Each classy and sophisticated dish is made using the freshest ingredients and can be savoured with a local or foreign wine. Enjoy this delicious meal while overlooking the amazing Adriatic Sea. At this restaurant, you’re in for a real treat! Prices are per evening menu.

QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. (+385-20) 44 01 00, www.importanneresort.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (170 - 260kn). P­A­G­B­W LUCIN KANTUN One can expect the best of Mediterranean dishes and they also do tapas. Their open kitchen style of cooking is almost like sitting back and watching a scene from the MasterChef series. Presentation is personified; service is impeccable, interior is charming! With little to fault, this hidden treasure is located in a back alley just off Stradun and is the perfect escape.QB‑2, Od Sigurate bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (38 - 160kn).

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BREAKFAST ORLANDO A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 07:30 - 01:00. (60 - 120kn). J­A­B­W PUPICA Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which could suit almost any European town, city, or village.

Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like a day without morning’. So before you get ready to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­i­T­ J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W SALVATORE Call it the perfect pit stop right on the old city walls especially in 30 plus degree heat. Their breakfast menu is simple and easy, ranging from omelettes to sandwiches. But best of all, the view overlooking the sea and smoothies and juices made fresh on site make this time-out, a true breather!QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+382-20) 63 69 39. Open 08:00 -18:30.

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MAGELLAN The first beautiful thing about this restaurant is the natural light that floods through huge windows on all four sides.

The second is the magenta-coloured wall covered in modern paintings by artists from Dubrovnik. Third, and most important, is the food. Bread and pasta are home-made; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared, and the service is first-class.QI‑3, Iva Vojnovića 7a, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 94. Open 08:00 -00:00. (100 - 300kn). P­A­U­L­E­ G­B­X­S­W PANTARUL A popular spot for the locals to frequent, you must try this delectable restaurant during your visit. They offer delicious appetizers like spring rolls, quiches or steak tartare. As well, delightful risottos and homemade pasta dishes are just a few of the choices for a main course. As an additional bonus, they’re always adding new and fun meals to the menu. Tastefully decorated, the friendly staff and warm environment will leave you with a satisfied experience.

The tables fill up quickly, so make sure you reserve a spot ahead of time.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 24:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 140kn). P­T­A­L­G­S­W PORAT RESTAURANT & BAR Located in the Gruž Harbour, this classy and modern restaurant has a variety of delicious dishes to choose from on their menu. They offer various soups and salads, gourmet burgers, grilled steaks, as well as fresh “Catch of the Day” fish, all artfully presented. It’s the perfect spot for an evening out with your friends and family.QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www.poratdubrovnik.com. Open 07:30 – 24:00. (25 - 500kn). P­i­ T­A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W RESTAURANT 360° If this review were to merely say ‘WOW!’ then it would be doing this restaurant a great injustice. 360° is designed for couples, not for larger groups, so it maintains a wonderful air of serenity even when full. From the main room which is set deep into the City walls, to the outdoor terraces which look out over the harbour. Their wine cellar alone is worth in excess of 1 million Euros, and that alone should be all you need to know about 360°.QE‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 22, www.360dubrovnik.com.

Open 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (190 - 350kn). P­T­ J­A­6­G­B­X­W TAVERNA OTTO This charming little taverna has an atmosphere reminiscent of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled tuna steak and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 19:00 - 23:00, Tue 19:00 - 23:00. (80 - 200kn).

P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

THE GATSBY WINE & FOOD BAR Located in a quaint street in the old town, The Gatsby Wine & Food Bar caters to a modern clientele with a nod to the roaring 20’s. Locally sourced ingredients and Adriatic fish meet specialty cuts of beef from around the world.

The selection of local wines is extensive—as it should be.

Cool off with a refreshing Mint Julep or Gin Rickey.QB‑3, Od Domina 1. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 400kn). B­W

KONOBA KONOBA DALMATINO Tucked inside the narrow side streets of the Old City, Konoba Dalmatino has added a unique twist to traditional Dalmatian cuisine. Try some Mussels in a Cream Wine Sauce, John Dory Fillet or Seared Tuna Steak with pan fried vegetables from the appetizing menu, in this warm environment of orange and brown hues, resembling rustic Tuscany. Old photos of Dubrovnik line the walls, along with wine bottles that are displayed around the restaurant, for decoration. To satisfy your palate, there is an extensive list of wines to choose from to sip along with your meal. For dessert, don’t miss out on trying the Chocolate Fondant, for a small taste of heaven.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74 04, www. dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 180kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

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KONOBA JEZUITE Tucked away from the big crowds where serenity reigns and positioned in front of the Saint Ignatius Church.

Choose from a balanced choice of fish and meat dishes or platters with excellent wines to dabble. It is typical Dalmatia and we recommend the mussels.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-) 098 74 00 73, www. restaurantjezuitedubrovnik.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 150kn). J­A­B­W PUPO Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-prepared seafood dishes and steaks as well as a ‘walk on a wok side’ as a good choice for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city, local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes make this value for money - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55/(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). T­J­A­U­ G­B­K­X­S­W ROZARIO On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65 50, www.konoba-rozario.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 168kn). P­i­T­J­A­G­B­X­S Summer 2017

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Restaurants TUTTO BENE Top city fast food place with a lavish choice of meals to devour! Choose from mega sandwiches, kebabs, burgers, chicken wings, tortilla wraps, salads and the best prepared French-fries along the Adriatic. Service is friendly and fun with suitable prices also. You’ll find them located in central position in the Old Town and they now have a lovely restaurant in the Lapad Bay, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 33 53, www. tuttobene-dubrovnik.com/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (15 45kn). J­A­W

MEDITERRANEAN

Banje Beach Restaurant Lounge & Club Archives

LIGHT BITES BUFFET ŠKOLA A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+38520) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

(14 - 30kn). P­J­N­G­B­W BURGER TIGER This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the narrow street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfooddubrovnik.com/. Open 10:00 - 02:00. (20 - 75kn). P­T­ J­A­U­G­B­X­S­W MR. FRESH Looking for a spot to enjoy a healthy, yet tasty treat in the heart of Dubrovnik? Look no further. At Mr. Fresh you can get a savoury smoothie to raise your energy levels as you explore this beautiful city. To satisfy your hunger they offer salads, tortillas and sandwiches. As well, to cool off, they offer four flavours of ice cream, which include wild berries, jaffa, stracciatella and chocolate. As a special treat, they also serve cocktails-on-the-go, such as a Mojito, Malibu Breeze or Gin-Gin.QB‑3, Od Puča 14, tel. (+385-) 095 936 30 07. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (20 - 45kn). i­T­J­A­B­S 24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

ABOVE 5 RESTAURANT Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and they are constantly rotating their selections. They also offer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado, eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.hotelstarigrad.com/ restaurant-2/. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (200 - 250kn). i­T­ J­A­B­X­W AMFORA While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, either New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.

You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in or near the Old City then you should not think twice about jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.

QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19, www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (115 - 250 kn). P­A­G­B­X­W BANJE BEACH RESTAURANT A hidden gem right on the beach where you can wine and dine with the pebbles and sea a stone throw. The Banje Beach Restaurant is elegant in look and service, the decor is a gentle blend of stone and wood which meets the Mediterranean as does the menu where local ingredients predominate. The wine list is broad and covers the local and global pick. All in all, a fine experience to be had!QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W CULTO Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds.

Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy for dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 17, tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 130kn). P­T­A­L­B­W DEFNE Straight out of the movies this restaurant, which is part of the 5 Star Pucić Palace Hotel, is situated on a first floor terrace and would have to be the first choice pick for any anniversary dinner, or valentine’s rendezvous. The menu, while far from cheap, is nevertheless impressive, and features cuisine from Croatia, Italy, Spain, and the Middle East, the latter three, of course, having had some historical influence within the region in centuries past.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 08, www.thepucicpalace.com. from April Open 17:00 - 24:00. (150 - 240kn). T­J­A­ 6­B­X­W GUSTA ME This small restaurant sits just above the Ploče Gate and has a pleasant, if somewhat muted, view of the City walls at night. Like most restaurants here it has a sizeable outdoor terrace, which is excellently sheltered so that bad weather need not force you indoors. The menu has a strong selection of Croatian wines and their food would suit a vegan as well as any carnivore. Some of the dishes vary from that which you might see elsewhere and seem a delight for anyone looking for something a little bit different.QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42 00 13, www.gustamedubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn).

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KLARISA Since they’ve been operating in Dubrovnik for only a few years, you can be forgiven for thinking that this restaurant has always been here. All their food, as you would expect, is sourced locally, and during the summer months you’ll be pleased to note that much of the fish is off-menu, because they never know what the catch of the day will be – that’s how fresh their fish is. Their brand new Renaissance kitchen offers delicious meals, such as homemade fish soup, Šporki makaruli (Dirty Macaroni a traditional pasta dish from Dubrovnik) and tasty stewed octopus, as well as delicious Carob Cake or a homemade cake with cheese and dried figs, for dessert. There’s a tavern attached, so if you’re waiting for a table you can always grab yourself a cool, tall, glass of pivo.QB‑2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa-dubrovnik.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 220kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­ I­E­G­B­X­W LAJK Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.

Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads, bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www. lajk-restaurant-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

(120-260kn). T­A­6­B­W

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Restaurants MEZZANAVE RESTAURANT & BAR If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re outside of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals at a much lower price than in the Old City.

Their menu includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24, tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave. com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (42 - 142kn).

P­T­A­6­U­L­V­G­B­X­S­W NAUTIKA The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.

Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (257 - 398kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W PANORAMA RESTAURANT & BAR It’s hard to find a more breathtaking view of Dubrovnik than from this restaurant. Drive up a narrow road to the top of Mount Srđ or take the cable car up and enjoy a tasty meal or simply a drink while you look out over the bird’seye view of Dubrovnik and Lokrum. The amazing view

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

is to die for! Enjoy the sunshine on your face on a bright and sunny day or come up right before sunset for a spectacular scene of the sun setting over this gorgeous city.

QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (upper station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/ (+385-) 091 486 00 47, www.nautikarestaurants.com.

Open 09:00 - 24:00. September Open 09:00 - 22:00. (70 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W RESTAURANT HORIZONT This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour.

They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as traditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-), www.restaurant-horizont. com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (110 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­ G­B­X­S­W SALVATORE This is the perfect place to grab some of your favourite Croatian snacks, like cheese and prosciutto-style ham or shrimp, while taking a break from exploring the city walls.

And not to mention the breathtaking view that will feed your soul.QE‑4, Old City Walls, tel. (+385-20) 63 69 39.

Open 08:00 - 18:30.

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Restaurants

VAPOR A Michelin guide restaurant, Bellevue Hotel restaurant is perfectly located near the city centre and commands an amazing view of its nearby surroundings. Food includes Dalmatian cuisine with an international twist, this vivacious diversity together with an excellent wine list is sure to satisfy the more refined tongue.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7, tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/ en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/ vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (105 - 320kn).

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MEET THE MEAT DOMINO STEAK HOUSE A serious convention centre for carnivores of varying tastes, offering steaks, fish and seafood in a multitude of styles. The outside seating in a sheltered courtyard just south of Stradun is especially lovely in hot weather.

QB‑3, Od Domina 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 03, www. dominorestaurant-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(80 - 200kn). P­T­J­A­6­U­G­B­W PAPARAZZO STEAKHOUSE One of the newest editions to the Old City, they offer an array of delicious grilled meats, such as Croatian Beef Fillet Steak, Croatian Veal T-bone and USA Black Angus Striploin in a charming and cozy environment. Located away from the main hustle and bustle of the town, enjoy a tasty meal facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

in this peaceful setting.QD‑4, Pobijana 2, tel. (+385-20) 48 49 78, www.paparazzo.hr/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250kn). P­T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

PIZZA BARACUDA Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy surrounded by religious landmarks in the heart of the Old Town!QB/C‑3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. (+385-20) 32 31 60/(+385-) 091 572 62 65. Open 09:30 - 23:30. (35 - 120kn). P­A­G­B­X­S­W MEA CULPA Once under Venetian rule, this city restaurant has maintained that Italian touch with grandiose pizzas top on the menu. Other delights include lasagne and salads. Everything is done proper from topping to table service. Choose from eating in or out and the local red is worth a try.QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 30, www.meaculpapizzeria.com/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 210kn). P­J­ A­G­B­S­W

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Restaurants TABASCO The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s certainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the immediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, delivery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a, tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr/.

Open 09:30 - 24:00. (32 - 120kn). P­T­A­V­G­B­ X­S­W

SEAFOOD

Nautika Restaurant Archives

BARBA Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oysters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 10:00 - 24:00. From June 15th Open 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 59kn). P­T­J­A­ G­S­W FISH RESTAURANT PROTO Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tourism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250kn). P­A­G­B­X­W

Banje Beach Restaurant Lounge & Club Archives

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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KAMENICE Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 36 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (58 - 123kn). J­A­B LEVANAT This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their specialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a potential wait of up to an hour. However the views from the terraced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00 24:00. (80 - 160kn). P­A­G­B­X­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ORSAN The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant-orsandubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). P­i­ T­A­6­G­B­X­W OYSTER & SUSHI BAR BOTA This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is every bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite, or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 11:00 24:00. (28 - 135kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W

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VEGETARIAN NISHTA Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegetarian cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry, soups, salad bar and much more. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, www. nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (77 - 95kn). J­A­G­B­X­S­W

Out of town CAVTAT BUGENVILA IN CAVTAT A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal homegrown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.

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Restaurants An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www. bugenvila.eu/. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:00. From June Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:30 - 22:45. (70 - 280kn).

T­A­L­B GALIJA A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins – have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront.

QVuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 85 66, www. galija.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 180kn). P­T­A­6­ U­E­G­B­X­S­W LEUT One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www. restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

P­A­U­G­B­W TORANJ Situated beside a busy seafront square and with outdoor seating on a first-floor terrace, Toranj does a consistently grand job of dishing out the best in Dalmatian cuisine.

Grilled fish and shellfish as usual take up most pages in the menu, although there’s a solid choice of seafood pasta dishes which - despite being listed as starters - constitute a satisfying main course in their own right. Leave room for the tasty desserts.QObala A. Starčevića 18, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 95 77/(+385-) 099 434 12 03. Open 11:00 24:00. (80 - 130kn). P­A­6­U­G­B­X­W

KOLOČEP VILLA RUŽA The sunset from the terrace is unforgettable as the Mediterranean Sea reflects in front of you. Add to that local Mediterranean specialties served amidst landscaped stone, olive and pine trees surroundings, Villa Ruža is a haven. Chock a block selection of wines. Means of transport include regular ferry lines from the Gruž Port or via private transfer.QDonje Čelo bb, Koločep Island, tel. (+385-20) 75 70 30/(+385-) 098 44 33 82, www.villa-ruza.com.

Open 12:00 - 24:00. (155 - 215kn). A­B­X­W

KONAVLE KONOBA KORAĆEVA KUĆA Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to create southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in 30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

the best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:30.

(70 - 160kn). T­A­6­L­B­W NATIONAL RESTAURANT KONAVOSKI DVORI Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists.

QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com/. Open 12:00 24:00. (80 - 110kn). A­L­G­B­X­W

KORČULA ADIO MARE Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) 71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (90 - 180kn).

P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W ZURE If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. (+38520) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87 12, www.zure.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­6­U­G­B­X­W

LASTOVO TRITON A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija – it’s all the stuff of dreams!QZaklopatica 15, Lastovo, tel. (+385-20) 80 11 61/(+385-) 098 177 80 65, www.triton.hr. Open 08:00 24:00. (60 - 200kn). i­N­G­B­X­W

LOPUD OBALA There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s waterfront with a trio of stately palm trees offering shade. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood territory with the addition of several chicken-based alternatives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes. Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+38520) 75 91 70/(+385-) 098 51 27 25, www.obalalopud. com. May - October Open 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn).

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Restaurants

Above 5 Restaurant Archives

MLINI KONOBA MARINERO If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner – a supremely relaxing treat.QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-20) 48 72 57/(+385-) 098 69 96 13, www.vivado. hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­6­L­G­B­W

STON VILA KORUNA The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. On offer are also rooms and suites that have been refurbished with state of the art features. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded.

Friendly staff looks after every detail.QMali Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 49 99/(+385-) 098 34 42 33, www.vilakoruna.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). P­J­A­ U­L­G­B­X­W

ZATON ANKORA The high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the wafacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

ter. Great for a romantic meal at sundown, it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik.QDr.Ante Starčevića 2, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 89 10 31, www. restaurant-ankora-dubrovnik.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

(70 - 150kn). A­B­X­W BABILON When surrounded by the Mediterranean, then eat Mediterranean. This casual restaurant offers an array of fish and meat dishes of the local order and prepped accordingly!

With a terrace facing the sea in the Zaton Bay and only 12 km from the Old Town, its tip top for lunch and dinner.QBulet 1, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 82. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (55 - 140kn). P­i­A­6­L­G­B­W ORSAN GVEROVIĆ This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (110 - 200kn).

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Local Flavour So, what can you eat in Dubrovnik if you’d like to escape the grilled fish - grilled meat - pasta trinity? The best answer is the same as anywhere: the same as the local people eat at home.

Let’s start with the basics. Šporke makarule is the local version of everyone’s favourite: spaghetti bolognaise. However, with hand-made pasta, small chunks of beef (not mince) and fresh tomatoes, it becomes something special. You’ll see big vats of the stuff served on the street at Carnival time in February. But even on the hottest day, add a crisp green salad and you’ve the perfect lunch.

A more special dish served throughout Dalmatia is pašticada. There are many variations, but generally a lean piece of beef is studded with carrot, garlic and smoked bacon and marinated in wine, oil, vinegar with perhaps a little orange and lemon. It’s cooked in a rich sauce, sometimes with prunes, and served with soft gnocci.

A winter warmer that truly displays the spirit of the region is konavoska zelena menestra. A selection of cured meats (pork, mutton, sausage) is cooked up with winter greens and potato. When finished, the meat is served on a plate and the smokily scented veg dished up with a little of the soupy liquid and lashings of olive oil. This dish dates from the 16th century; for added historical effect substitute barley for potato. Fast forward to springtime when broad beans are ready for picking: try them cooked with smoked mutton, garlic, parsley and bacon fat.

Stonska torta, Good Food Festival Archives

LOCAL DISHES Despite Dubrovnik having centuries-old trading connections across the globe, the cuisine of this region is very much based on the gifts of nature in this part of the world.

Classic Dubrovnik cuisine is seasoned with parsley, garlic, olive oil and lemon, and perhaps a touch of rosemary or bay leaf if the chef is on the adventurous side. A true Mediterranean experience, you might say.

This tendency to eschew more exotic ingredients can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, the city’s menus can seem somewhat repetitive. On the other hand, what you eat is fresh, natural and, in the better restaurants, local.

The simplicity of the preparation lets the flavours of high quality ingredients do the work. It’s hard to beat a good piece of meat or fish grilled over charcoal with a salad freshly picked from a hinterland garden.

In defence of simple cooking, experiments with “imaginative” cuisine can be like playing Russian roulette. In anything but the most skilled hands and pedantic husbandry the result can be disappointing. For example, in Provence, as Financial Times food columnist Rowley Leigh complained bitterly in summer 2012, it’s hard find an authentic bouillabaisse or ratatouille these days. Peasant food gains elevated status and loses its guts. Croatian food is still unfashionably plentiful and full of flavour, and all the better for it.

34 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

To get a little more exotic, consider an excursion northwards to the Pelješac peninsula, where you can treat yourself to Ostrea edulis, otherwise known as the finest oysters in the world, prepared in a million different ways. While you’re there, look out also for butarga (dried flathead mullet roe); there are a couple of families here who still prepare this rare delicacy.

Further north still, the Neretva river estuary is home to all kinds of aquatic life and a magnet for culinary adventurers. Fancy a plateful of snails cooked over an open fire? Eel cooked in a rich brudet sauce? Frog risotto, perhaps? It’s the perfect end to a watery day’s safari.

Good Food Festival Archives

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Local Flavour To accompany your traditional-style meal you’ll want a drop of the local grape. Where reds are concerned it’s easy.

The Pelješac peninsula is the home of some of the most prized wines in Croatia: Dingač and Postup. Redolent of the sun that warms the rocky vineyards, they’re high in flavour and alcohol and a little bit pricey. Their cheaper younger brother, Plavac pelješki, is a palatable alternative. For whites, look out for Dubrovnik Malvasia (not the same thing as Istrian Malvazija). It might be white but it’s pretty intense so can go with meats as well as fish.

And to finish off, you’ll see rožata on many a menu: it’s the local version of crème caramel. Not so frequently spotted is stonska torta made with cooked macaroni. We think there’s no better way than to finish your meal than some fragrant figs (fresh in season, dried at other times), a handful of almonds and a liquer made from oranges, mandarins or rose petals.

And speaking of which, here are a couple of recipes you might try to bring back sweet memories of your time in Dubrovnik.

PELJEŠAC WINES Those who do not know much about Croatia can be forgiven for not realising that wine is as much a part of life here as it is Italy, a country which sits on the opposite side of the Adriatic Sea. In fact, wine has been a part of this region since the days of the Ancient Greeks, who had settled parts of Dalmatia in the 5th century BC, including the islands of Hvar, Vis, and Korčula (birth place to Marco Polo).

In time, the Roman Empire expanded into Dalmatia - then peopled by the Illyrians - bringing with it more modernised methods of cultivation, and under Roman rule Dalmatian wine saw itself being exported to other parts of the Mediterranean, and beyond. Eventually the Croats would come to live here, and they saw fit to further expand the region’s wine production. Croatian wines would be welcome at the Austrian and Hungarian courts, and with many a farmer relying on his own vines to keep him in wine then you could be assured that quality levels were kept quite high.

The country’s history being what it is it’s perhaps not such a surprise to discover that some of the wineries are not so well known, even nationally, but it won’t be long before all of that will change. Here, we’ll look some of the more tempting local wines.

Plavac Mali, or Little Blue, is a variety of red grape closely related to Zinfandel and Primitivo. It is grown almost exclusively on the western side of the island of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula. The wine it produces tends towards a deep purple-red colour, high in tannins, extract, and alcohol. Normally presenting a rich, dry taste, the better vintages will be more mild and sweet. Those who know such things recommend that such reds be enjoyed with red meat dishes, black olives, and salted anchovies. Dingač is a variety of Plavac Mali and is considered by many to be the Holy Grail of local wines, and can only be grown in this facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Local Flavour region as a result of very specific geographical conditions.

Such is its importance to Dalmatia that in 1961 it fell under the protection of the Geneva Convention, the first Croatian wine to do so. It is of a deep ruby red colour, of an exceptionally unique and luxurious bouquet, a nicely accentuated aroma, and a harmonious fullness of taste. Dingač was joined in 1967 by Postup, a top-quality red wine created from the grapes of the Plavac Mali variety, exclusively from the location of Postup, which is on the southern slopes of the Pelješac peninsula. Postup is a darker red, with a full, harmonious taste with a touch of crispness.

Plavac Mali Vineyards

Good Food Festival Archives

DUBROVNIK FOOD STORY Your Food Guide in Dubrovnik For the complete food and wine experience, this company packs in some mouth-watering offers. Pick and choose from their selective tours which embrace a fusion of history, gastronomy, tradition and local ambience. Opt from their ‘Dubrovnik on a Plate – Eat and Walk tour’ by visiting four culinary gems in the heart of town whilst hearing some cracking stories of historical sites in between. The ‘Pick.Cook.Eat - Traditional Cooking Class tour’ takes you to a typical family country home where you handpick your ingredients straight from the garden and along with your hearty hosts, whip up some immaculate traditional dishes. The ‘Hop on hiccup food and wine tour - Pelješac Gourmet’ 36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Now, while it’s true that Dalmatians prefer red wine to white (the opposite would be the case in Croatia overall), there are more than a few high quality whites available. Rukatac, however, is the gleaming jewel in Dalmatia’s crown. An endangered grape to be sure, it is indigenous to the peninsula. It can be found from Prevlaka to the Croatian coast, and again on the islands of Korčula and Lastovo. Wines made from rukatac are ideal for dessert wines, known as prošek. It is often greenish to golden colour with an extremely pleasant bouquet. Like most other whites, this is best while it is still young to drink during the first or possibly second year.

There are other producers on the peninsula of course, and it would be remiss to neglect names such as Korta Katarina, Skaramuča, Madirazza, Matuško, to list but a few. The area’s wineries are generally inclined towards a wholly welcoming atmosphere, with Udruga pelješki vinski puti (Association of Pelješac Wine Trails) and Plavac mali being just two associations which put considerable effort into ensuring grape quality and the promotion of the peninsula’s wine growers and wine trails.

Detailing any one of the many wine trails would take too much time and too many print inches. Needless to say that any tourist may put their fate in the hands of a seasoned local or tour guide and take advice from them - or put the effort in and plan your own tour of this Croatian exclave.

More than a few tour operators will bring buses and boats onto the peninsula from Split and Trogir, and if you’re time takes you to the best wine region this side of the Adriatic as you visit charming family run wine cellars, see windy steep slopes covered with vineyards, and oyster farms. New to the list is the ‘GOT to Taste it tour’ customised for Game of Thrones fans who get to see film locations and a three course themed meal dedicated to the series. Choose from the ‘Basic Tour (2.5hrs) or the Extended Tour (4hrs)’. All in all, each tour is made for lasting impressions as your job is to simply toast, drink and eat. Regular tours are in English but for bigger groups they offer private tours in French, German, Spanish and Italian. Bookings in advance are essential and starting times vary for each tour. For further details, visit www. dubrovnikfoodstory.com and as they WARN; an empty glass is strictly forbidden.Qtel. (+385-20) 29 51 44, www.dubrovnikfoodstory.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour is flexible enough then it’s well worth taking the day to get as many wineries and vineyards in as possible. Make sure you find yourself near Ston, because you’ll want to sample the oysters as well as the wine.

WINE TRAILS & GASTRO TOURISM Wine trails, or roads, are an important economic tool for any region such as the Pelješac peninsula. When you’re not only removed from the centre of the continent but from your own country too, you must do all in your power to ensure that your tourism sector is doing its best to attract - and keep - as many visitors as possible.

Wine trails are not a new concept as well worn roads emerged over centuries of use as producers moved their wine to market. The more worn the road the more popular - it’s reasonable to assume - the wines which are produced within its vineyards. Alongside these wine trails a healthy gastro-tourism sector is developing; after all, you do need to eat if you’re going to be drinking several glasses of wine over the course of a day. With Dalmatia offering a variety of local and Mediterranean, you’re never likely to try the same dish twice even if you’re dining out each night of a holiday.

EDIVO WINE BAR If you don’t know, Edivo is a company that produces wine in the Pelješac peninsula which is then stored for up to two years beneath the sea. The result is an aromatic top quality aged wine presented with layers of coral and shell over the bottle. Totally unique! You can even dive to see this for real… Edivo now have their Wine Bar which include

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their Navis Mysrerium, Edivo Dingač and Plavac.QDrače 18a, Drače, Pelješac Peninsula, tel. (+385) 91 174 12 06, www.edivovina.hr/. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A­W GRGIĆ VINA QTrstenik 78, 20245 Trstenik, tel. (+385-) 098 16 31 569/ (+385-) 098 24 36 78, www.grgic-vina.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

SKARAMUČA WINESHOP AND WINE BAR Wine shop Pijavičino i Viganj - Open for public from May to October from 9 am to 9 pm.QC‑2, Dropčeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 73 75 42/(+385-) 098 26 16 84, www. dingac-skaramuca.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

VINARIJA KORTA KATARINA QUl. Bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Orebić, tel. (+385-) 020 71 38 17/(+385-) 099 81 51 655, www.kortakatarinawinery. com/. Open by prior arrangement.

VINARIJA MILOŠ QPonikve/Boljenovići 15, Ston, tel. (+385-) 098 96 56 880, www.milos.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

WINE SHOP&BAR PENINSULA QDonja Banda bb, Oskorušno, tel. (+385-) 098 28 58 24, www.peninsula.hr. Open 09:00 -19:00. A­B­W

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Coffee & Cakes COFFEE BIKER’S CAFE Perched up in a neighbourghood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 39, tel. (+385-) 098 68 07 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­N­ B­X­W CAVE BAR MORE This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a little help from the human hand, been transformed into a delightfully relaxing bar. No music is played here: your thoughts and conversations are accompanied only by the sound of the sea. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. From June Open 10:00 - 24:00. A­W

CAKES DOLCE VITA This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

P­N­B GOSSIP ICECREAM DUBROVNIK If you’re looking for a quick snack while exploring Dubrovnik then GosSip is the perfect spot to stop by. Located on Stradun, they offer tasty salads, sandwiches and hotdogs, as well as various ice cream flavours and frozen yogurt to satisfy your sweet tooth. As well, they even have mojitos-to-go, a refreshing drink to cool you off as you roam the ancient city. Also at Placa 3 under the name Eat&Sweet!QC‑2, Boškovićeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 950 67 22, www.icecream-dubrovnik. com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. From June Open 08:00 02:00. (10 - 50kn). T­J­N­S PUPICA Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie (slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse just to stop by and sample yet another slice of whatever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. P­T­ J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W

CELTIC BAR BELFAST ‘The Belfast’ is a café situated near Kralj Tomislav, and while there is a lack of Irish beers it is certainly a welcoming and relaxing place, in which to enjoy a kava or a small beer during the warm Dubrovnik days. The interior is festooned with Celtic FC memorabilia, and the fittings and fixtures are far from clichéd bric-a-brac usually associated with such places.QG‑2, Marka Marulića 21. Open 07:00 02:00. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W FASHION CAFÉ In the heart of Lapad, this is a café dedicated to those who know their Bvlgari from their Balenciaga, with even the occasional fashion show going on. Sunglasses the size of dinner plates are mandatory.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 7. Open 06:00 - 23:00. From June Open 06:00 - 02:00.

P­6­N­G­B­X­W FESTIVAL This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www. cafefestival.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. From April Open 07:30 - 02:00. P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W GLAM CAFÉ If you fancy a healthy breakfast you might try here: as well as coffee, they do excellent fresh juices and smoothies. In the evening, this is a good place to get the night off to a good start with one of their range of cocktails or craft beers.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00 - 24:00. From June Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­N­G­B­X­W LIBERTINA (LUĆI) Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though.

A thoroughly enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 20:00 24:00. 6­G­B­X­W SOUL CAFFE This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the backstreets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmosphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.

QC‑3, Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­i­T­J­A­6­E­G­B­X­W

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Nightlife CASINO MERIT CASINO LIBERTAS Try your luck at the only casino in the city which is located in the Rixos Hotel. Choose from slot machines to live game tables which feature Black Jack, Caribbean Poker to American Roulette amongst others. The buffet is a fusion of European and Balkan cuisine with an ‘A La Carte’ menu available if pre-ordered. The finest whiskey and cigars are available so there’s no better place to hit the jackpot!QLiechtensteinov put 3, tel. (+385-) 20 22 08 00, www.spiritofmerit.com. Open 12:00 - 06:00. A­W

BARS Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

ART CAFFE Unremarkable at first glance, step inside and you’ll discover a shabby-chic haven, with couches made from oldfashioned bathtubs and tables from re-“cycled” (ha ha) washing machine drums. Cocktails, creativity and smoothies all in one small but perfect package.QK‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika 25, tel. (+385-) 095 866 04 11. Open 09:00 - 02:00. G­B­X­W BUŽA What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 08:00 - 02:00 or according to weather conditions. B BUZZ BAR Located parallel to Stradun, this lively bar offers an array of drinks to enjoy with your friends during a night out on the town. For those who like sweet drinks they have a long list of various cocktails. They also offer a variety of local Croatian beers, such as Zmajsko Pale Ale and Grička Vještica, an extra strong dark beer. As well, for a special treat, they host live music nights.QC‑2, Prijeko 21, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 25. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­J­6­U­E­B­X­W

Lazareti Archives

MIRAGE Located in the Old City of Dubrovnik, just behind the Cathedral in the Bunic Square, Caffe Bar Mirage provides an excellent service while creating a unique experience for every guest. With an offer, ranging from warm beverages to the most famous cocktails in town, this vibrant bar is a popular local and tourist hangout.QC‑3, Bunićeva polja‑ na 3, tel. (+385-) 091 400 90 78. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 02:00. From May Open 08:00 - 02:00.

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Buzz Bar Archives

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NONE NINA A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace – you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. (+385-) 098 915 99 09, www.nonenina.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­A­E­B­W dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife ROCK CAFFE EXIT Bar on the first floor of a small building, just off the Stradun, not visible but audible from the outside. It has very good acoustics and friendly staff. Altogether a good atmosphere to start the night out.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 095 914 54 62. Open 18:00 - 02:00. P­J­E­N­X­W

CLUBS BANJE BEACH NIGHT CLUB The Banje beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.

From July 8 Open Sat 22:00 - 04:00. P­A­B­W CULTURE CLUB REVELIN Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often jam-packed with punters dancing to local and international music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Rev‑ elin), tel. (+385-) 098 53 35 31, www.clubrevelin.com.

Open 23:00 - 06:00. P­A­W

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LAZARETI These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house are given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An international multimedia festival is held here, which includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, www.lazareti.com. Open Thu - Sat 22:00 05:00.

LOUNGE BARS CULTO Escape the scorching summer heat and cool off at Culto!

What makes this bar unique is its exquisitely decorated interior and good atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit, it has a vibe and attracts a bubbly crowd.QI‑4, Iva Vojnovića 39a, tel. (+385-) 099 314 64 96. Open 08:00 - 04:00, Open 08:00 - 00:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00 , Sun 10:00 - 00:00.

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PUBS GAFFE PUB For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger

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Nightlife

beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­J­A­6­G­B­X­W IRISH PUB KARAKA This popular meeting spot is a must during your trip to Dubrovnik. It’s a delightful and lively place to enjoy a drink with your friends while you’re out visiting the Old Town.

Big screen TVs show the latest sporting events, while this fun-filled pub is always filled with people pouring out into the stone streets of Dubrovnik.QC‑2, Između polača 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com.

Open 09:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W

WINE BARS D’VINO In a narrow street just off the Stradun, this is a great place for sampling local tipple by the glass, with good advice on what to try from the friendly staff. Attracts a good mix of locals and tourists, most of whom end up engaged in halfsozzled conversation on the stone steps outside. Along with wine, you can enjoy the home made delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, kulen, olives, and a bit of this to a bit of that for a Dalmatian sensation. Breakfast is served 8:00 - 14:00.QC‑2, Palmotićeva 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 30, www.dvino.net. Open 10:00 - 02:00. i­J­A­G­B­W facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

MATUŠKO This local family, known for producing some of the finest wines from Potomje, a village located in the Peljašac region, goes by the motto, “Svi smo mi Mato Matuško samo je Dundo Bobo.” Their wine bar, located in the Old City is a a great spot to unwind from a busy day. Sit back and relax in this cozy brick and stone environment with a glass of award-winning Royal Dingač or Pošip. They also are currently the only place in Dubrovnik where you can smoke shisha.QC‑2, Prijeko 6, tel. (+385-) 099 807 08 02, www. matusko-vina.hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­A­6­ E­G­B­X­W RAZONODA WINE BAR This wine and Croatian tapas bar is one of the newest additions to the Old Town. It’s part of the Pucić Palace Hotel and has a refined and gentlemen’s club feel. They offer the finest Croatian wines, from the Pelješac region in southern Croatia, to Istra in the northwest and Slavonia in the northeast. As a snack, munch on some pršut, cheese or marinated anchovies. There’s also plenty of unique drink options for all non-wine lovers to try, such as craft beer from Croatian Garden brewery, cocktails and an array of domestic liquors brands.QC‑3, Od puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 332 41 04. Open 12:00 - 24:00. P­A­G­W

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Sightseeing monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385-20) 31 17 38/(+385-) 099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or 60 minutes depending on the season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore we suggest you contact the office for further information. A return ticket costs 120kn per person, for kids until the age of 15, 20kn.

Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

ESSENTIAL DUBROVNIK DOMINICAN MONASTERY (DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (14561469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture.

The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, 11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 00. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/20 kn.

LOKRUM ISLAND You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the 46 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

STRADUN, PLACA When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by GrecoRoman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.

THE CHURCH OF ST BLAISE (CRKVA SV. VLAHA) Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.

QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sunday 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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Sightseeing THE CITY WALLS, BASTIONS AND PILE & PLOČE GATES (GRADSKE ZIDINE, TVRĐAVE, GRADSKA VRATA PILE, VRATA OD PLOČA) Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.

The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in places shows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see

reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. hr. Open 08:00-18:30. From May Open 07:00 - 18:30.

Admission 150/50 kn.

THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE FRIARS MINOR AND THE OLD PHARMACY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I STARA APOTEKA MALE BRAĆE) The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, a large collection of musical notations and a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.

QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca. wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 30/15 kn.

THE RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEV DVOR) One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here,

Great Onofrio’s Fountain, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

48 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing

and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr.

Open 09:00 - 18:00, Open from June 1 due to renovation.

Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnograph‑ ic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhib‑ it, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J

GALLERIES DUBROVNIK ART GALLERY (UMJETNIČKA GALERIJA DUBROVNIK) This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

modern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults,100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo‑ logical exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

OTOK GALLERY, ARL (GALERIJA OTOK, ARL) A gallery in the Dubrovnik Lazaret – the former quarantine houses – which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard.QL‑2, Frana Supila 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 46 33. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑ sion free.

THE ATELIER OF DUBRAVKA LOŠIĆ The Atelier of Dubravka Lošić provides art lovers with a peak into the mind and soul of one of Dubrovnik’s premier modern artists. Ms. Lošić combines several mediums and artistic genres: painting, installation pieces and costume design. The Atelier is housed in an industrial space and features some of her ongoing projects. Visits are available by appointment only.QObala Stjepana Radića 2, tel. (+385-) 91 439 13 53, www.dubravkalosic.com/.

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Sightseeing

Photo by Igor Brautović, Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

THE SPONZA PALACE (PALAČA SPONZA) For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here.

It was built 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Admission free). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

Admission 25kn.

WAR PHOTO LIMITED A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers – essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.

LANDMARKS Photo by Stjepan Felber

THE DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA GALLERY/RONALD BROWN MEMORIAL HOUSE (GALERIJA DULČIĆ, MASLE, PULITIKA/MEMORIJALNA KUĆA RONALD BROWN) This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are famous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The building was repaired and renovated by the US Government and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ronald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Dubrovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 26 45, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑ elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

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BONINOVO CLIFFS It might be considered somewhat morbid that such an infamous location is becoming more and more a tourist attraction; the Boninovo Cliffs are known to the locals as a popular (though we are loathe to use such a word as ‘popular’ here) suicide spot. The fence, which guards passing pedestrians against unfortunate demise, is now populated by a myriad array of padlocks, left there by couples to commemorate their very-much-alive love for each other.

The view from here, and from the nearby benches, is spectacular, and it is all too easy to while away an hour in the dying heat of the day. It is bit a ten minute brisk walk from the Pile Gate of the Old City. It is at once both a place of reflection and sombre beauty. It’s best appreciated either at the height of the tourist influx (since they’re all in the Old City), or during the evening sunset, as life winds down along the coastline.

DUBROVNIK AQUARIUM (AKVARIJ DUBROVNIK) Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere, as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09.00 21.00. Admission 60/20 kn. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing DUBROVNIK CABLE CAR The 778 meter journey gives you breathtaking views over the Old City. The upper station has two panoramic terraces equipped with binocular telescopes, a snack bar, a panoramic restaurant, a souvenir shop and more. The lower station is at the beginning of King Petar Krešimir Street (opposite the fire station) where tickets can be bought, also in Restaurant Panorama at the top of Mount Srđ, or in Restaurant Dubravka close to the Pile Gates where you can pay in kuna or by credit card. From other places (e.g. travel agencies and souvenir shops) tickets are payable in euro.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 53 93, www.dubrovnikcablecar.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Round-trip ticket 130/60 kn.

GUNDULIĆ SQUARE (GUNDULIĆEVA POLJANA) This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre – one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings.QC/D‑3.

ONOFRIO’S FOUNTAINS – GREAT AND SMALL (VELIKA I MALA ONOFRIJEVA FONTANA) One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio

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Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers.

The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia.

Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun.QB‑2, D‑3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom.

ORLANDO’S COLUMN (ORLANDOV STUP) In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag symbolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

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Sightseeing ORSULA PARK There is a gorgeous view overlooking the Old Town, all the way to Cavtat and the island of Lokrum, from this phenomenal location next to the remains of the 14th century St Orsula’s Church. There is an amphitheatre here that seats 350 and is set on a cliff, 200 metres above the sea. It is a 25 minute walk from the Old Town or a short ride by the No.10 bus. After the Ambient Croatia Association saved and renovated this location, Dubrovnik has also gained a new summer stage for concerts of various domestic and international musical performers, who will play here throughout the summer.QMagistralni put 2, www. parkorsula.du-hr.net.

THE CITY BELLTOWER (GRADSKI ZVONIK, LUŽA ZVONARA) Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one

Maritime Museum Archives

52 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island.

The tower’s clock with its sunburst centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom.

THE CITY HALL AND MARIN DRŽIĆ THEATRE (VIJEĆNICA I KAZALIŠTE MARINA DRŽIĆA) South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.

Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00.

THE CITY HARBOUR (GRADSKA LUKA) Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and by the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik Karaka, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal.QD/E‑2/3.

THE LAZARET (LAZARETI) Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

MUSEUMS DUBROVNIK NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ DUBROVNIK) The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio (Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions.

QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ per‑ sons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM RUPE (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ RUPE) “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated.

QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus. hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket cost‑ ing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑ tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Mu‑ seum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

MARITIME MUSEUM (POMORSKI MUZEJ) Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel. (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00 22:00. Closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑ elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery.

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Sightseeing THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIN DRŽIĆ (DOM MARINA DRŽIĆA) This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.muzejmarindrzic.eu. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Unified ticket cost‑ ing 120kn for adults, 100kn for groups (10+ persons) and 25kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑ tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Mu‑ seum and Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery. J THE CROATIAN WAR OF INDEPENDENCE MUSEUM The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent exhibition dedicated toDubrovnik during the Homeland War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.

QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admis‑ sion 30kn.

THE SYNAGOGUE AND JEWISH MUSEUM (SINAGOGA I ŽIDOVSKI MUZEJ) The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.

Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 40kn.

Get the In Your Pocket City Essentials app 54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

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Konavle

Konavle Cavtat Tourist Board Archives

Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle offers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient history. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle.

The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin “canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat, known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evidence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhabited the region before them is still visible. In the village of Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to the pagan god Mithras.

In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, notably at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.

Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing fortress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and Roman fortifications.

Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.

You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and 20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.

Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent hotels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.

Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay away from the crowds.

Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alternative to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food just as people have made at home for generations, plucked fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course, to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka, plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying something of a revival.

With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recreational activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes, hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat, Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist train through the Konavle vineyards.

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Konavle At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss the Sunday folklore performances running from just before Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spectacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully displayed, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir.

To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your fingertips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and wonderful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw from the shoreline.

BUKOVAC HOUSE (KUĆA BUKOVAC) A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house, where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Admission 30kn.

SOKOL TOWER (SOKOL GRAD) Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an ancient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the public and also maintains some archaeological items including Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Ko‑ navle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Tickets 50/35 kn.

THE RAČIĆ MAUSOLEUM (MAUZOLEJ OBITELJI RAČIĆ) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović, a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to house their remains. Located in the middle of the cemetery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mausoleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea. It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our Lady of the Angels.QCavtat. 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis‑ sion 20kn.

Photo by Andrija Carli

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

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THE SIVI SOKO VIEWPOINT Return home by bragging to friends some of the best photos you had taken around Dubrovnik. Pick up your camera and GO GO GO! Jump onto the old road, the so called ‘Jadranska magistrala’ towards the Čilipi Airport and exit at the town called Zvekovica, turning left onto a local road.

After 1km, turn left and head up the Snježnica Hill until you see the sign for Velji Do to the left. This is your last turn before the main post. A narrow path will then take you to the ‘lookout’ itself from which you will have breathtaking views of Dubrovnik, Konavle, Cavtat and the neighboring islands. From here it is all yours; capture the photo and those special moments!

TOURIST BOARD OF KONAVLE QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

Hotel Odisej Mljet, ALH Archives

Islands The Elaphite archipelago consists of 13 islands and islets, of which only three are inhabited. Robinson Crusoe will get a run for his money here as the nature and culture on the islands are next to perfection; the peace and tranquillity, invaluable. The island sitting high north of the Dubrovnik/ Neretva County is Korčula which is filled with its rich culture, historical remains and natural surroundings. The town of Korčula is also known as ‘Little Dubrovnik’ because of the walls that surround it. The island of Lastovo is the second most forested island in the Adriatic earning it the title of a Nature Park. With a National Park on the western front to a reserve of natural assets on the eastern front, the island of Mljet is full of flora and fauna, fascinating history and wild adventure offers. The islands in general have a completely different atmosphere from mainland towns making their way of life all the more special.

THE ELAFITI ISLANDS KOLOČEP, LOPUD AND ŠIPAN These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!

Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archifacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super familyrun hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants.

Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings panoramic views of the island. There is also a Marco Polo Museum which reflects on his life through seven vast and deep scenes which bring to life his amazing adventures.

The Abbey Treasury of St. Mark is in the heart of the mainsquare and features reliquaries, artworks, liturgical vestments and manuscripts with some dating as far back as the 12th century. The Icon Gallery features artworks of Byzantine paintings on wood and most of which were brought across by island sailors from the 13th to 17th century. Ahoy to the naval ancestors! The Revelin Tower with its descending steps is a majestic site in itself whilst the Maximilian Vanka Gallery hosts his astute paintings and portraits for which he is most known for. And that’s just a snapshot of Korčula with more to do and see. All in all, it’s well worth a few days’ stay and is a perfect place to recharge your batteries. One of the other most prominent features of the island is its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with swords, which you can witness during the summer months (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in June and September, starting at 21:00), heralded by drumbeats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes through prior to the performance.

Korčula Tourist Board Archives

KORČULA K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel.

Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic towns which hits the news from time to time with reports of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wander through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galleries within a casual morning stroll.

Many of the historical sights and landmarks are just a stone throw from the main square and you’ll be bedazzled by the amount of history and culture that surrounds you. Take for instance the Tower of Marco Polo, believed to be the house in which the great world traveller and writer was born, whilst there head up to the tower for some breathtaking 58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

With such material, Korčula has a long tradition of tourism and is one of the more commercialised of Croatia’s Adriatic towns, so the town itself gets pretty busy during high season. But this is a relatively large island, there are plenty of other places to explore and get away from it all.

As with any island, the perfect way to explore is to rent a scooter or bicycle from any of the tourist agencies in town.

Head towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else. Other destinations for wine connoisseurs are the villages of Čara and Smokvica, these two island gems also add to the agricultural pallet as they are known for the top quality white wine known as Pošip, considered to be one of the most prestigious wines of the Croatian south.

KORČULA CITY MUSEUM QTrg Sv. Marka, tel. (+385-20) 71 14 20, www.gmkorcula.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrange‑ ment. Admission 20/8kn per person.

KORČULA TOURIST BOARD QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www. visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00; 16:00 - 20:00.

LASTOVO Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.

Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.

able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair.

Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.

LASTOVO TOURIST BOARD QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.

Open 08:00 -14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.

Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.

With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.

Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and

MLJET Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with a limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands.

This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts or discos. One might hope it never will be.

Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover.

Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3km wide and 37km long making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”

Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world in-

Photo by Andrija Carli

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Dubrovnik Surroundings Polače The village is named for the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications - one tower is 20m high - built between the 2nd and the 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls.

Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick forests and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small yachts, which can pull up to the pier while you enjoy the hotel’s amenities.

Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation.

Photo by Andrija Carli

cludes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.

Getting there and around Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north, however, you can also access the island from Sobra which is best used to reach Maranovići and Babino Polje. Other harbours include Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Big Lake.

What to See Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, np-mljet@npmljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within the park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic.

Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Mary (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart.

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Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari.

It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too.

Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative centre of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island.

Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja) Technically that would be Calypso’s cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way home from the Trojan War, only stayed with the nymph seven years, and most of the time he was pining for his wife and his home. After walking along a path lined with rock walls and wildflowers, which takes you out above a deep grotto and the crashing waves, you may wonder why he was in such a hurry to leave. You can pick your way down into the cave; come back another day by boat to squeeze into it through a 30m tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto as a harbour.

Prožura This medieval village was used by Ragusan nobles who - a bit like yourself - were looking for relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over a Blato (an intermittent lake) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco.

Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundations of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. In nearby Korita, the ruined 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill mixes Gothic and Renaissance elements, and demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. A roughly square plan with a deep porch extending to the front, and dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

a picturesque belfry “na preslicu” (“on a distaff,” that is, the belfry has a split where the bell hangs, the way a distaff’s end is cleft to hold wool). Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Korita is named for the stone troughs, common on the island, that are used to capture rainwater.

MLJET TOURIST BOARD Around the side of the cafe at the ferry pier.QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00.

North of Dubrovnik The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continental areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498. The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those associated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the peninsula.

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NERETVA If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva.

It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.

As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for transporting pretty much everything around here. The region has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race (Maraton lađa, August 13 ) which attracts competing teams from around the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition - the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge!

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Dubrovnik Surroundings More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centered around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet - you can try it in the popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road - a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future.

METKOVIĆ TOURIST BOARD QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr.

The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality.

Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.

The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights - a week will hardly be long enough.

Narona Archaeological Museum Archives

NARONA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ NARONA) This archaeological museum is located at the former site of Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibition. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+38520) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn.

PELJEŠAC PENINSULA The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country.

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OREBIĆ TOURIST BOARD QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

From July 08:00 - 22:00.

STON TOURIST BOARD QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www. ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00.

SLANO Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine beaches are ideal for landlubbers. The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times.

Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the picturesque bay. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Surroundings

The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state. The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical architecture in Dalmatia.

If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, Slano is a must-see.

SLANO TOURIST BOARD QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36, www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

TRSTENO If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum - of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Mafacebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

rinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here.

Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates - don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view encapsulating the true meaning of this place - botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic.

In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum - a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Summer 2017

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Dubrovnik Surroundings tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s.

The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches.

Hotel Odisej Mljet, ALH Archives

Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature.

The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical.

South of Dubrovnik South of Dubrovnik and following the coastal road you will find yourself in Župa Dubrovačka, where there are a handful of bays that have a promenade which passes through small romantic places such as Srebreno and Mlini. If you continue further south, you will find yourself in a vortex of history. The small town of Cavtat will enchant you with its architecture, nature and charm. Historically known as Epidaurum, it used to be a key part of Dubrovnik’s history and development of the city, which the citizens of Cavtat built respectively. From Cavtat to the border with Montenegro stretches the Konavle municipality which was named after the Latin word ‘canalis’, referring to water channels that used to bring water from water-wells across Konavle Fields to the ancient city of Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat).

ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. ŽUPA DUBROVAČKA TOURIST BOARD QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+38520) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 7:00 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

AGRITOURISM AGROTURIZAM LAPTALO Not far from Dubrovnik in a village named Gromača you’ll find this family smallholding. Throughout the year, if you call ahead, you can visit and enjoy homemade dishes cooked in the traditional way, and sample the family’s liqueurs, wines and olive oil. Try the local sweet specialities arancine (orange), kontonjata (quince) and mantala (grape, orange, nuts and spices).QGromača 56, Zaton, tel. (+385-20) 88 11 86/ (+385-) 099 218 36 12, 098 72 51 02, www. laptalo-agro.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

P­ILNK­W KONOBA VINICA - MONKOVIĆ FAMILY Excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat.

If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, roast meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too…QPridvorje, Ljuta, tel. (+385-20) 79 12 44/(+385-) 099 215 24 59, www.konobavinica.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

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Leisure Dubrovnik is far from being just a walk-round museum of cultural treasures and churches. It also stands in the middle of a spectacularly unspoiled natural landscape, and is ideally suited to an active holiday of paddling, peddling and generally pottering around.

The easiest way to stretch your legs is to embark on a mission to conquer Mount Srđ, the stark 412m-high summit that watches over Dubrovnik to the north. Otherwise catch a ferry to an offshore island such as Lopud, Šipan or Mljet, where numerous walking trails forge through untouched Mediterranean landscapes.

Most popular of the organized activities in the Dubrovnik region is sea kayaking, with several local agencies offering half- or full-day paddles focusing on the nearby islands of Lokrum, Koločep and Lopud.

Cycling is beginning to take off in the Konavle, the beautifully rustic coastal strip that runs southeast from Dubrovnik to the Montenegrin border. The Cavtat tourist office publishes a series of free mountain biking maps to the region, and guided bike tours can be booked at travel agents in both Dubrovnik and Cavtat.

With the chance to go scuba diving or sailing in coastal waters near Dubrovnik or Mljet, or try out free climbing or horse riding in the Konavle, there’s no shortage of variety.

ADRENALINE Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger.

ABYSS - DIVING & WATER-SPORT CENTRE Diving center, diving school, water sports (jet ski, waterski, wakeboard, stand up paddle, snorkeling, parasailing).

QG‑2, Ive Dulčića 142 (Hotel Dubrovnik President beach), tel. (+385-) 099 256 12 56/(+385-) 099 445 56 95, www.dubrovnikdiving.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. A ADVENTURE DALMATIA Sea kayaking around Dubrovnik, free climbing in the Konavle. More information on contacts below.QPile bay, tel. (+385-) 091 566 59 42/(+385-) 091 182 89 95, www. adventuredalmatia.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

BLUE PLANET Different levels for scuba diving courses, daily trips and diving adventures.QF‑3, Masarykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. (+385-) 091 899 09 73, www. blueplanet-diving.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

BUNGEE JUMPING Heart pumping, thrill seeking jumps that make for lifelong memories. The lads on 53m high Franjo Tuđman Bridge are waiting for you; it’s like Point Break on altitude.

QG‑1, Franjo Tuđman Bridge, tel. +385 91 111 55 44, www.bungee-jumping-dubrovnik.com/. Open 11:00 20:00. 600kn. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Leisure EXCURSIONS Agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips that suit your needs.

DUBROVNIK ADVENTURES A top tour operator company offering an assortment of great escapes from one day and on as they promote active, eco and adventure tourism. Choose from country wine tours, cycling tours, island hopping on a bike, excursions, hiking and multi-sport tours just to name a few.

Top notch tour guides combine history and humour fused with food and beverages in ready-made packages that will leave you with lasting memories of Dubrovnik and its natural surroundings.Qtel. (+385-) 099 667 77 00, www. dubrovnikadventures.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Buggy Safari Dubrovnik Archives

DUBROVNIK BOAT EXCURSIONS Visiting 3 islands is the ideal way to escape the hustle and bustle of Dubrovnik and in getting to know the charm of the Elaphite islands all in one day. The tour is ideal for families, larger groups, and for individuals who are happy to meet new people and customs. The fleet consists of 4 old timer boats that are fully equipped (umbrellas, chairs, music, toilets and more), and very friendly and attentive staff who will ensure that your day passes in the best possible fashion. The price of 250kuna per person includes transportation from your hotel or place of stay to the ship docking area and back.QVrh sela 9, Veliki Zaton, tel. (+385-) 098 178 71 77, www.dubrovnikboatexcursions.com.

Open by prior arrangement.

Viganj Slalom Open, Orebić Tourist Board Archives

DIVING CLUB DUBROVNIK Scuba diving, start on Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour.

QG/H‑1, Solitudo Bay, tel. (+385-20) 43 57 37/(+385-) 098 42 79 63, www.du-diver.hr. Open by prior arrange‑ ment.

KOJAN KORAL Two hours of horse riding in the Konvale countryside, which even a total beginner can enjoy: helmets, insurance, and instructions are provided. They also offer ATV Quad Safaris across four different off-road terrains of the Konavle mainland. Price 600-700kn for ATV-quad safari and 650kn horseback riding (including the transport from/to Kojan Koral).QPopovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. (+385-) 099 300 50 01, www.kojankoral.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement.

TENNIS DUBROVNIK TENNIS CLUB QH‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 7, tel. (+385-20) 43 73 55. Open 07:00 - 22:00. 80kn/h during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 100kn/h.

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DUBROVNIK BOATS Seeking a trip or tour, but do not wish to be held up by other tourists or deadlines. Would you like to go on a trip tailored to your needs and wishes? Look no further, for private or specifically prepared adventures or trips that meet your every standard and expectation, with choice of fullfeatured transport (boat, sailing boat, catamaran, speed boat or yacht), simply contact Nikša and his team. They organise transport, crew, offer personal recommendations on what to visit, where to eat, relax and most importantly how better to experience and learn about Dubrovnik and its surroundings. Your entire experience is professionally looked after by the staff at Dubrovnik Boats’, all you need is to book, sit back and enjoy.QBartola Kašića 13, tel. (+385-) 098 75 78 90, www.dubrovnikboats.com. Open by prior arrangement.

DUBROVNIK SAILING Make the most of your stay by going sailing from leisure to recreational all down to professional sports sailing.

Choose between half and full day sailing, sunset sailing or week sailing. Stop off at amazing islands, sandy beaches, caves, historical monuments, gardens. Your camera will be working overtime and all you need to do is let the skipper know. Ahoy matey!Qtel. (+385-) 098 42 84 52, www. dubrovnik-sailing.com. dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

ACCESSORIES ART GO’DEN A classy and sophisticated Croatian accessories brand.

Your chance to take back home exquisite silk ties and scarves designed with Dubrovnik historical or marine motifs or even the same leather bag that we heard Roger Moore bought for his wife during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival! Also at Radisson Blue Resort&Spa, Valamar Lacroma Resort, Rixos Libertas Dubrovnik Hotel, Valamar Dubrovnik President, Kompas and Sheraton.QK‑3, Mari‑ jana Blažića 2 (Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik), tel. (+385-) 098 42 75 96, www.artgoden.com. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00. A BORZA GRUPA The Dubrovnik established Borza Grupa Ltd. offers a wide range of designer bags, shoes, watches, sunglasses and other accessories by top designers, such as Braccialini, M Missoni, Armani and many more.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 35 89 84, www.borzagrupa.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heritage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www.croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99, www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 07:00 - 18:30. A ARTUR A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art.

They also have art workshops during whole year so if you are interested you know what to do...QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 28 53 98, www. arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A HERITAGE GALLERY A small store exquisitely decorated in the spirit of the old Dubrovnik salon and inspired by rich local and Croatian culture. It has different goods to offer and you can choose from the wide range of art objects, antiquities and useful items dedicated to Croatian history, the ancient times right through to the present.For lovers of antiques and vintage items, there is a collection of antique oil lamps and small household items.QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385-) 098 20 91 50, www.heritagegallery.eu. Open 10:00 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A HOMA GALLERY A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspiration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 099 834 05 73.

Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N

ANTIQUES ANTIQUES TEZORO Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

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ART GALLERIES AR BASTION A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Shopping a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20) 31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. A

Break Time Nautical Archives

KLARISA GALLERY Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia, and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croatian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-) 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 21:00. A ROMANA ATELIER Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.

QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 98/(+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.

Open 10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A TALIR Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 93. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A WORKSHOP BE CRAFT This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass, stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46, www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

CHIC & CHEERFUL BREAK TIME - NAUTICAL BRACELETS For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53, www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

CVIJET BY KIKE For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion, from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower shop will help you show your loved ones you care with 68 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

LIFE ACCORDING TO KAWA ‘Life According to Kawa’ is a concept unlike any other in Dubrovnik. Set in a renovated garage, the layout is more like a cutting-edge flat than a store. They offer exclusive artisan products and limited edition designs by Croatia’s most creative minds - - from t-shirts, handbags and ceramics to craft beer and wine. Also, it’s one of the only places in town where you can get great hand-roasted coffee to go!QHvarska 2, tel. (+385 - ) 099 668 0145, www.kawa. life. Open 12:00 - 20:00.

TURQWISE Did you know? The word turquoise comes from the name of a colour the French gave to a mineral from Turkey. The Dubrovnik Republic was responsible for introducing this colour to Europe. Products offered from this store are designed using this soothing colour. They offer unique plexi rings, each topped with a unique and modern shape, as well as graphic design modern art posters and photos, which represent the sea.QB‑2, Ulica Getaldićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 905 42 40, www.turqwise.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. J

CIGAR SHOP LA CASA DEL HABANO Cigars, from Cuba, Honduras and Dominican Republic.

Smoke it up, dudes.QC‑3, Od Puča 1, tel. (+385-) 091 484 91 62, www.havana-cigar-shop.com/la-casa-delhabano-dubrovnik. Open 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 12:00 - 24:00. A

DELICATESSEN DUBROVAČKA KUĆA A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+38520) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A GLIGORA WINE & CHEESE SHOP Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the island Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards, including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir, mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other wellknown cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41 00, www. gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/gligoratrgovina-dubrovnik. Open: 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 07:00 13:00. A­G­B dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

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Shopping JEWELLERY CLARA STONES Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and precious stones, which may leave some women breathless.

The uniqueness of this store is its presentation department which shows how a coral branch is worked on and the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open 09:30 - 20:00. J­A DUBROVNIK TREASURES Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of highquality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers, using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.

Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. From July Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives

KRAŠ The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00 22:00. A OLEOTEKA UJE Hmmm…The first Croatian oil shop that offers a wide range of Croatian olive oils from Istria, the island of Brač and Zadar, whilst also offering an array of Mediterranean spices and dry fruits. Good nibbles!QC‑2, Od puča 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 65, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

May Open 09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A ŠKAR WINERY Ahoy, Mateys! This unique wine and souvenir shop is located in an old shipyard in the city’s stunning harbour.

The small family-run business started selling it’s homemade Lekri wines four years ago. The grapes are grown and picked in their vineyards on Pelješac and brought to the winery in Dubrovnik where the superb Plavac mali, a supreme dry red wine and Rukatac, a quality dry white wine are produced. The Krile family also makes liqueurs with a diverse assortment of flavors- careb, cherry, lemon and many more. The souvenirs are all knickknacks made by local Dubrovnik artists. This extraordinary wine tasting experience is not to be missed!QH‑2, Lapadska obala 17, tel. (+385-) 098 78 77 05, www.lekri.eu. From May Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

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KRIŽEK This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewellery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. A

SOUVENIRS DEŠA PRO Deša is an NGO created during the Homeland War to give support to women and families affected by the conflict of the 1990’s. The organization’s main goal is to build a strong and sustainable society by helping to empower marginalized women. Deša Pro, located just outside the Ploče gate, sells authentic souvenirs, local delicacies and handicrafts.

QL‑2, Frana Supila 8. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A DUTY FREE SHOP One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the expected range of products you see at similar stores, the exception here is the traditional Croatian products and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Ko‑ navle.

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Where to stay HOTELS In Croatia hotels aregraded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with reasonable prices nearby.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swimming pool are frequently provided.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main attractions. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car park, gym and one or more swimming pools.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation. Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist is also on duty 24 hours.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island's beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests' needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to attract guests all year round. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families.

The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croatian coast include great value for money and direct contact with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury apartments. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.

When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools. Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

HOSTELS Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard.

As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it's only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels.

Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Arrival & Getting Around book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2, Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 83 80, www.jadrolinija. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 - 20:00. From April 10 Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 20:00. Mon, Wed Open 08:00 -16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 - 20:00. From May 19 Open 08:00 - 16:30; 19:00 - 20:00. Mon, Wed, Fri Open 08:00 -16:30; 19:00 - 22:00. Sun Open 08:00 - 09:30; 19:00 20:00.

KAPETAN LUKA, KRILO Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet April 24 - October 28. Check the sailing schedule here. Tickets can be bought at Avansa Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - 16:00.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž, www. krilo.hr. 80 - 190kn one way, depending on your final destination.

ARRIVING BY BUS

Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives

ARRIVING BY BOAT There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.

The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.

G&V LINE Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00.

Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska 36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 25 - 95kn one way per person depending on time of the year and your final destination.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinja ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, between Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari.

Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to 72 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.

Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.

COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II bb, tel. (+385-) 060 30 50 70, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Open 05:30 - 22:30.

ARRIVING BY CAR For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa” under City Basics.

Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is probdubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around ably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to have a map handy!

ARRIVING BY PLANE The airport is located 20 km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A car hire facilities are to be found in the arrivals hall. Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into town (40 kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses no. 11, 27 and 38 also connect the airport to the town centre (28 kn one way), but only run a few times a day. Airport Shuttle buses now operate from Dubrovnik Airport to Korčula Island, Pelješac and Mljet – includes Vela Luka, Brna, Korčula Town, Lumbarda, Orebić, Trpanj, and Prapratno (for ferry to Mljet). The bus will run daily from 30.04 to 30.09.2017 with connections several times a day. To book your place on the shuttle bus (advance booking only), simply get in touch with the korkyra.info travel agency. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 – 250 kn.

DUBROVNIK AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA DUBROVNIK) QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

CAR RENTAL AVIS - BUDGET QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 091 314 30 19, www.avis.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A DOLLAR&THRIFTY QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 35 88/ (+385-) 098 42 49 03, www.carrentalsubrosa.com.

Open 07:00 - 21:00, andro.sukno@subrosa.hr. A HERTZ Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: (+385-20) 77 15 68, (+385-) 091 425 11 11.QL‑2, Frana Supila 9, tel. (+385-20) 42 50 00/(+385-) 091 425 00 01, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun on request. A MACK Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-) 098 32 09 15, 098 42 21 92, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QL‑2, Frana Supila 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 37 47/(+385-) 098 32 09 15, www.rent-acar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A UNI RENT Also at Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. (+385-20) 77 34 80, dubrovnik-airport@uni-rent.hr, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QF/ G‑3, Masarykov put 9, tel. (+385-20) 33 36 64/(+385-) 099 219 55 15, www.uni-rent.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES

The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the information and materials made available are free and you are more than welcome to visit them.

PILE QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, July, August Open 08:00-22:00.

GRUŽ QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

July, August Open 08:00-21:00.

LAPAD QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 -20:00.

LOPUD QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 19:00, Closed Fri. July, August Open 08:00 -20:00, Tue, Thur 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. ŠIPAN QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 19:00, Closed Tue. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Closed Tue. ZATON QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www. tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Closed Wed. Summer 2017

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Arrival & Getting Around in the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately upon boarding. Out-of-town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr LIBERTAS QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+38520) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr.

TAXI There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.

PLAVI TAXI DUBROVNIK Qtel. (+385-20) 33 22 22.

RADIO TAXI DUBROVNIK Qtel. (+385-20) 41 14 11, www.radiotaxidubrovnik. com.

TAXI RAGUSA DUBROVNIK Qtel. (+385-) 800 14 41, www.taxidubrovnik.eu.

TOWED AWAY Stay up-to-date facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

PARKING Central Dubrovnik can be a nightmare when it comes to parking, and it’s not uncommon to see visitors driving around in circles for hours in the hope of finding a free space. Your best bet is to head for the multi-storey car park at Ilijina Glavica (Zagrebačka ulica, K-2), well-placed for people entering the city from the west. A bus shuttles passengers from the car park to the Old Town’s Pile Gate, although with Pile sitting a mere ten minutes downhill on foot, you might not need it. Parking costs 5 - 40kn per hour depending on which zone you’re in, and the season.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en/.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.

They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website or any number of placards or fliers 74 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket

If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card.

SANITAT DUBROVNIK QMarka Marojice 5, tel. (+385-20) 64 01 40, www. sanitat.hr/en/.

TRAVEL AGENCIES GULLIVER TRAVEL Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. (+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A KORKYRA QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyradubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From May Open 09:00 - 21:00. A VIVADO Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer, tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. N dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

Dubrovnik Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 New Year’s Day January 6 Epiphany April 16 Easter April 17 Easter Monday May 1 International Workers’ Day June 15 Corpus Christi June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day August 15 Feast of the Assumption October 8 Independence Day November 1 All Saints’ Day December 25 Christmas December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY

TOILETS There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče, and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 07:00 - 23:00, Peskarija 07:00 - 02:00.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb (H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside. facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket

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Street register A. Barca H-2/3 A. Bošković J-2/3 A. Hallera I-2 A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 A. Kazali H-2 A. Mihanovića J-2 A. Šenoe H-2 A.G. Matoša I-2 A.T. Mimare K-2 Androvićeva C-4 Ante Starčevića I-2 Antuninska C-2 Aquarium E-3 Arhiv D-2 Asimon E-1 B. Bušića L-2 Bernarda Shawa K-2 Babin Kuk G-2 Bandureva D-4 Banjska I-3 Batahovina G-1 Batala H/I-2 Biokovska G-2 Bokar A-3 Bokeljska G-1 Boninovo J-3 Bosanka L-2 Boškovićeva C-2 Božatska I-2 Braće Andrijića D-4 Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Brdasta J-2 Brgatska L-2

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Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Alighieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F. Kolumbića F. Prešerna F. Supila Ferićeva Flore Jakšić

A-2 I-2 C-3 D-1 K-2 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 I-2 G-2 A-1 H-2 J-3 C-3 H-1 H-2 I-2 K-2 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-2/3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-1 H-2 H-2 I-2 L-2 B-3 G-2

G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića Ilije Sarake Imotska Ispod Minčete Ispod mira Ispod Petke Istarska Ive Dulčića Ivana Zajca Ivanska Iza Grada Između ribnjaka Između tri crkve Između vrta

I-2/3 B-2 B-2 H/I-3 I/J/K-2 J-3 D-4 C-4 H-2 K-2 H-1 C/D-3 C-1 H-3 B-3 I-2 E-1 J-2 L-2 H-2, I-3 D-4 I-1 B-1 D-4 G-2 J-3 G-2 G/H-1 G-3 B-1, K-2 H-2 J-2 K-3

Između polača Izvijačica J. Berse J. Pupačića Jakljanska Janjinska Josipa Kosora Kantafig Kardinala Stepinca Kaznačićeva Kliševska Kneza Domagoja Kneza Branimira Kneza Damjana Jude Kneza Hrvaša Knežev dvor Koločepska Komajska Komolačka Konavoska Korčulanska Koritska Kotorska Kovačka Kralja Tomislava Kunićeva Kunska L. Matačića L. Rogovskog Lapad Lapadska obala Lazareti Lazarina

C-2 A-1 H-2 H-2 H-1 H-2 I-3 G-1 F-2 C-3 G-2 H-2 I-2 E-3 C-4 D-3 L-2 H-2 G-1 L-2 I-3 H-1 I-3 D-2 H-2 C-2 I-1 H-1 G/H-2 G-3 H-2 L-2 L-2

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Dubravka

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Mea Culpa

Klarisa

Glam cafe

Mirage

Bistro Tavulin

Konoba Jezuite

Taj Mahal

Gaffe Pub

Exit Rock CafĂŠ

Salvatore

Gusta Me

City Centre Map

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City Map Liechtensteinov put Lokrum Lokrumska Lopudska Lovrijenac Lovrina Lučarica Luka Dubrovnik Luke Sorkočevića Ljubuška M. Blažića M. Budaka M. Dizdara M. Gjaje M. Gupca M. Hamzića M. Jarnovića M. Mrnarevića M. Vodopića Mala Petka Mandaljenska Marina Držića Marka Marojice Marojice Kaboge Masarykov put

H/I-3 L-3 K-2 H-1 K-3 L-2 D-3 H-1 G-2 H-1 K-3 K-2 I-1 J-2 K-2 I-2 G-2 I-2 G/H-2 G-3 G-3 D-3 H-2 C-3 F/G-3

Metohijska Miha Pracata Minčeta Mljetska Mokoška Moluntska Montovjerna Mosorska Most Dubrovnik Mrtvo zvono N. Ljubičića N. Nodila Na Andriji Na Mihajlu Na Ponti Nalješkovićeva Napice Neumska Nikole Božidarevića Nikole Gučetića Nikole Tesle Nuncijata Obala S. Radića Obodska Obuljenska

I-1 C-2 B/C-1 H/I-1 I-1 G-1 I-2 G-2 G-1 B-4 I-2 J-2 B-3 H-2 D-2 C-2 L-2 H-1 B/C-3 C-3 H/I-2 H-1 I-2 K-2 J-2

Od Batale Od borova Od čempresa Od Danača Od Domina Od gaja Od Gale Od Greba Žudioskih Od Gradca Od Hladnice Od Kaštela Od Kolorine Od Margarite Od maslinate Od Montovjerne Od Nuncijate Od polača Od puča Od pustijerne Od Rupa Od Sigurate Od Srđa Od Sv. Mihajla Od škara Od šorte

H-2 H-2 J-2 J-3 B-3 I-1/2, J-2 I/J-2 K-2 J-3 H-3 B-4 K-3 C-4 L-2 I-2 H-1 C-2 C/B-3 D-4 B-3 B-2 K-2 H-2 I-1 B-3

Od Tabakarije Oraška P. Budmani P. Čingrije P. Krešimira IV P. Preradovića Padre Perice Palmotićeva Paska Baburice Pećarica Peline Pelješka Pera Bakića Petilovrijenci Petra Svačića Pile Pionirska Placa Placa – Stradun Platska Ploče Plovani skalini Pobijana Pobreška Poljana Mrtvo zvono

K-3 G-2 K-2 I-3 L-2 H-2 I-1 C-2 H-2 C-3 C-1 K-2 J-2 C-2 G-2 J/K-3 H-1 C/D-2 C-2 J-3 L-2 C-1 D-4 H-1 B-4

Dubrovnik Sailing Restaurant Aquarius

H

Restaurant Levanat

Merit Cas

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City Map Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska I-2 Pred Dvorom D-3 Prelazna B-3 Pridvorska J-2 Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Primorska G-2 Privežna J-2 Puljizeva B-3 Put od Bosanke L-2 Restićeva D-4 Revelin E-1 Riječka G-1 Ribarnica D-2 Roka Mišetića H-3 S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Savska G-3 Sinjska I-2 Slanska G-2

Solinska Solitudo Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa Sv. Ivan Sv. Jakov Sv. Križa Sv. Lucija Sv. Luka Sv. Petar Sv. Spasitelj Sv. Stjepan Sv. Šimuna Sv. Vid Sv. Vlaha Sv. Marije

Hotel Lero

I-2 G-1 D-2 J-2 K-2 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 L-2 I-2 C-1 A-2, K-3 E-3 D-1 H-1 C-1 E-2 B-4 E-4 D-4 B-4 C-1 D-3 B-3

Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Šipčine I-2 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-2 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska I-2 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička I-2 Trpanjska G-1 Trstenska G-2 U pilama K-3 Udarnička I-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu H-2 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Uz mline K-2 Uz posat B-1 Uz tabor K-2

Vladimira Nazora J-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2 Velebitska G-2 Velika Petka G-3 Vetranićeva C-2 Vicina K-2 Viška I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1 Vukovarska I-2 Za kapelicom K-2 Za Kamenom E-4 Za Rokom B-3 Za rupama B-3 Zadarska G-2 Zagrebačka J/K-2 Zamanjina C-2 Zatonska G-2 Zlatarićeva B-2 Zlatarska D-2 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4 Željezničarska H-1 Žudioska D-2 Žuljanska I-2 Župska L-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

sino

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Traditional Dubrovnik renaissance recipes inspired by the finest local ingredients in the heart of the Old Town

b o ok on l i ne & s ave 5%

w w w. k l a r i s a - d u b r o v n i k . c o m Klarisa d.o.o. • Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 • OIB: 12053921736 +385 (0)20 413 100 • info@klarisa.hr