In the Loop Fly Fishing Magazine - Issue 45

Bonefishing in the French West Indies

PATAGONIA

BIG DREAMS AND BIG RAINBOWS

A JOURNEY BACK TO MY ROOTS

Exploring Italy Through Fly Fishing

By Sergio Calero

By Marek Sidor

Photo by Marcos Hlace

Sorry about the delay. There was an opportunity to go fish for marble trout in Slovenia that we just couldn’t pass up –and it interfered with our normal deadline.

Now that we’re back, we’re pleased to offer up yet another dose of fabulous fly fishing journalism and photography. We’re well aware that the salmon season has now started, that there are rising fish in the local rivers, and that freshwater predators such as perch, zander, and pike are on the prowl, but – if you have time – we’d appreciate it, if you’d give the magazine a thorough read.

Once again, our contributors have concocted a wonderful serving of great photojournalism that really encapsulates the spirit of fly fishing.

Enjoy our 2025 June-edition and have a wonderful summer holiday full of thrilling fly fishing experiences.

Tight lines out there!

Photo by Torbjørn Tiltnes

#INTHELOOPMAG Presents

Big Dreams and Big Rainbows by Sergio Calero

Bonefishing in the French West Indies by Fin Chasers Media

A Journey Back to My Roots by Marek Sidor

The Magical ‘Mio’

RASMUS OVESEN

Oslo-resident, Rasmus Ovesen, was handed his first fly rod at the tender age of eight, and he has been a borderline fluff chucking fanatic ever since. Rasmus has written articles for some of the world’s most renowned fishing magazines, and his travels take him to re mote areas across the globe in search for fish that will test and challenge his skills to the maximum. He has seen his fair share of ex posed backing in the tropics, but his heart truly belongs to the soulful realm of trout and salmon fishing.

TARQUIN MILLINGTON-DRAKE

choose not to print this magazine and we are happy not to use paper and harmful inks as used in a conventional printing process. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.

Although he has fished and photographed extensively around the world through his work as the MD of travel company Frontiers UK, TMD’s heart lies with the Atlantic salmon. He has fished Norway, Iceland and Russia every year for the past 20+ years. He was also President of the Ponoi River Company for 10 years and is an international Director of NASF. He is lucky to be a member of the 50lbs + salmon club. You can follow his travels and love of photography at: www.blog.millingtondrake.com

MAREK SIDOR

Slovakian fly fisherman, Marek Sidor, now resides in the Canary Islands. Here, he explores the many mountain lakes and reservoirs inland as well as the few saltwater fisheries that still exist along the coastline. Marek is an accomplished photographer, who likes to travel and target pike, zander, trout, grayling, and other species that can be targeted with relatively light gear. To follow his adventures, please check out his Instagram account: www.instagram.com/sidor_marek/

CRISTIAN DUFFLOCQ

Fly fishing runs deep in Cristian veins. His father, Adrian Dufflocq, founded Cumilahue, Chile’s first fly-fishing lodge, in 1964. From an early age, Cristian was immersed in the world of angling. As soon as he could row a boat, he began taking anglers fishing. Among his notable guests were famed author Ernest Schwiebert, Ernest Hemingway’s sons, Jack and Patrick, and celebrated bamboo rod builder Hoagie Carmichael Jr., the son of the renowned musician and composer. This unique upbringing en riched Cristian’s life with unparalleled experiences. Together with his brother, Marcelo, he explored much of Chile’s Lake District and Patagonia in pursuit of exceptional fishing waters. Through tireless dedication and effort, they discovered extraordinary Rivers. Cristian organizes trips and expeditions and also guides anglers to remote corners of Chile, including the rivers of the Chilean Fjords, and their lodge, Estancia de los Ríos, www.andesjourneys.com

THE FIN CHASERS MEDIA

Matteo Pergent and Emeline Lemoine, a French couple with a passion for fly fishing photography, have been capturing the beauty of the sport since 2021. Always on the move, they embrace DIY adventures, seeking out new waters, meeting fellow anglers, and immersing themselves in the thrill of exploration. Their spe cialty lies in dry fly fishing and sight nymphing for trout, but they never turn down an opportunity to chase new species. For them, it is all about sharing good moments on the water. www.instagram.com/thefinchasers_media/

SERGIO CELERO & ANTTI LAMMI

Stream Spirit is a creative col-

Do you have any great fly fishing photos, vide os, or stories that you would like to share with our readers? If so, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us. We are always looking for quality material for In the Loop Magazine, and we look for ward to reviewing your material.

info@intheloopmag.com

www.instagram.com/herlehamon

w www.alphonsefishingco.com

t +248 422 9700 [GMT+04:00]

m +27 60 980 7316 [GMT+04:00 WhatsApp]

e reservations@alphonsefishingco.com

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Big Dreams and Big Rainbows A Patagonia Adventure

By: SERGIO CALERO

Photos by: SERGIO CALERO and ANTTI LAMMI

A couple of years ago, I decided to take the leap into a new adventure—documenting the fly fishing lifestyle through my camera lens. Little did I know this would become a journey that would take me to some of the most remote, untouched rivers and lakes on Earth, and lead to lifelong friendships along the way. Today, what started as a personal project has evolved into Stream Spirit, a collaborative effort with my good friend and talented photographer, Antti Lammi from Finland.

One of the most unforgettable chapters of our adventure was in March 2022, when we traveled to Patagonia, Chile, to film and fish with our close friends and expert guides, Ronald and Daniel. It was an incredible month, filled with stunning landscapes, challenging fishing conditions, and the kind of camaraderie that only long days on the water can create. We returned home with a wealth of photos and footage, but little did we know the best was yet to come.

A New Lead

About a month after we returned, we received an email from Daniel that would change everything. He spoke of a secret, remote river nestled deep in Chilean Patagonia - an untouched paradise for rainbow trout. We were intrigued.

And by October of the same year, we found ourselves back on a plane to Balmaceda, ready for another epic adventure. The journey to this hidden gem began as soon as we touched down in Chile. From Balmaceda Airport, we embarked on a seven-hour drive across the rugged Patagonian terrain. The final leg of our trip was by boat, crossing a massive lake before finally reaching our destination. The boat ride was, in a word, adventurous. The fierce Patagonian winds whipped up the water into towering waves, making for a thrilling - and at times, nerve-wracking - journey. A large gust of wind even sent one of the boat’s windows crashing into the lake. Yet, we arrived safely at a sheltered bay, our spirits high as we neared the mouth of the river.

Daniel, as excited as we were, shouted out the name of the river just as we caught our first glimpse of it from the boat. That was when the anticipation truly set in. What kind of rainbow trout would we find in this river?

The River of Dreams

In southern Chile, fishing season begins in mid-October, just as spring breaks across the Patagonian landscape. The temperatures are still cold at nightoften dipping below freezing - but the days are crisp and clear. In this part of the world, the river we were about to fish is a seasonal paradise. Every year, migratory rainbow trout make their way upstream from the lake to spawn. For a short window of time, this river becomes a goldmine for fly fishers.

“What kind of rainbow trout would we find in this river?”

The fishery is fleeting, with only a few weeks each year offering the kind of fishing experience we had been dreaming of.

As Daniel explained, the rhythm of the river is a story told by nature itself. Once the trout have finished spawning in the colder months, they begin their migration back to the lake. This exodus begins as snow in the highlands melts, feeding the river with fresh, rushing waters.

“We were able to spot the rainbows and pick out the fish we wanted to target”

By summer, the fish are gone, their seasonal journey complete, and the river grows quiet again - waiting for the cycle to return next winter.

The timing of our trip was perfect. The snowmelt hadn’t yet started, and the water was clear, offering ideal conditions for sight fishing. We were able to spot the rainbows and pick out the fish we wanted to target. This level of precision and focus elevated the experience, making every cast feel like a true test of skill and patience.

A Week in Paradise

The seven days we spent on the river were nothing short of magical. It wasn’t just the beauty of the fish or the scenery that made this trip so unforgettable - it was the entire experience. From the campfire stories shared under starry Patagonian skies, to the quiet moments spent soaking in the serenity of the wild, this trip became a celebration of everything we love about fly fishing: the challenge, the connection to nature, and the friendships that grow out of shared adventures.

One of the most memorable parts of the trip was the sense of community. Our guide, Daniel, made sure everyone felt like part of the team. Whether we were fishing, exploring the surrounding wilderness, or simply relaxing by the fire, there was a sense of camaraderie that made everything feel special.

Chilean hospitality truly lives up to its reputation, and Daniel’s generosity and enthusiasm made this experience feel like a personal journey rather than just another fishing trip.

Fishing Beyond the Norm

Throughout our time on the river, we had the chance to experiment with new fishing methods - one of which was fishing with “surf flies” that Antti had brought from Finland. This was a completely new approach for me, and the thrill of casting and watching the trout rise to the surface to take the surf fly was an unforgettable experience. The sheer beauty of the rainbow trout - vibrant, powerful, and stunning - was a sight to behold. Some of the fish we landed were the largest I’ve ever caught, and it was a true privilege to film and photograph these majestic creatures.

A Calmer Return

The trip ended as quietly as it had begun. On our way back to the city, the winds had calmed, and the lake was as smooth as glass. It was a perfect ending to an unforgettable adventure - a moment of tranquility that allowed us to reflect on the wild, untamed beauty of the place we had just visited.

As we left Patagonia behind, I couldn’t help but hope that places like this will remain wild - that future generations can experience the same sense of wonder, connection, and humility that we felt in those pristine waters. There’s something about the untouched beauty of Patagonia - its vast, open skies and its silence - that reminds us how small we are in the grand scheme of things. Yet, in the presence of such majestic wilderness, we also feel an overwhelming sense of belonging.

Our journey to this secret Patagonian river was more than just a fishing trip. It was an experience that reaffirmed the reasons we do what we do: to connect with nature, to challenge ourselves, and to share the beauty of this world with others. And if there’s one thing I’ve learned on this adventure, it’s that these wild places are not just for us to explore - they’re for us to protect, to respect, and to ensure they continue to endure for the generations that follow.

The dream of chasing big rainbows in wild, untouched places is a pursuit worth following, no matter how far the journey may take us.

About Stream Spirit

Stream Spirit is a collaboration between two passionate fly anglers and photographers, Antti Lammi and Sergio Calero. Together, we document the beauty and challenges of the fly fishing lifestyle, sharing stories from the water, tips, and inspiring others to pursue their own adventures.

Follow our journey at Stream Spirit on Instagram:

www.instagram.com/streamspirit.flyfishing

Links to our friends:

Daniel Silva

www.instagram.com/patagonia_anglers

Ronald Moldehauer

www.instagram.com/ronald_moldenfly

F ROM OCEAN TO RIVER, FROM CITY TO WILD − WE’VE BOTH MADE IT HOME.

E very journey leaves its mark — on flanks of chrome, on worn in wading boots — on souls. But when you finally reach a place that feels like home, all the miles fall away and everything that matters comes into focus. You get one life. Fish It Well.

inBonefishing the French West Indies GUADELOUPE

By FIN CHASERS MEDIA

Just an 8-hour direct flight from Paris lies a French territory nestled in the heart of the Caribbean archipelago: the French West Indies. While Guadeloupe is renowned for its tourism and rum, it also offers a diverse array of fishing opportunities for anglers eager to pursue legendary Atlantic species. From flats fishing to exploring mangroves, blind casting along the reefs, or even offshore fishing for big game, the variety of options is perfect for adding a touch of fishing adventure to a more tourism-focused trip.

Not Your Average Fly Fishing Destination

Discovered in 1493, Guadeloupe’s history took a significant turn at the beginning of the 17th century when the first French settlers arrived. After nearly two centuries marked by the complexities of the triangular trade, similar to its neighboring Caribbean islands, Guadeloupe officially became an Overseas Region of France in March 1946.

In many ways, Guadeloupe may not resemble your typical tropical fly fishing destination—and that’s precisely its charm.Unlike the remote, untouched islands often featured in fishing magazines, Guadeloupe offers a vibrant, cosmopolitan atmosphere. This apparent hustle and bustle adds to the island’s allure, blending the excitement of urban life with the serenity of nature.

Despite its development, Guadeloupe has maintained a remarkable balance between urbanization and environmental preservation. This harmony is evident in the lush, thriving vegetation and the rich diversity of marine life along the coastline. Protected marine areas and national parks further safeguard the island’s ecosystems, ensuring that nature continues to flourish alongside human activity.

What truly distinguishes Guadeloupe is its ability to blend comfort with adventure. Anglers can enjoy the convenience of modern amenities—restaurants, bars, and activities—while also indulging in the thrill of fishing for legendary species like permit, bonefish, tarpon, and snook. This perfect combination makes Guadeloupe an ideal destination for family trips, allowing anglers to mix tourism with authentic fishing experiences. Moreover, as a French territory, Guadeloupe is easily accessible for European travelers. A direct flight from Paris eliminates the need for multiple connections, boat charters, or long hours on rugged roads. Your trophy bonefish might be just one flight away from your hometown.

Designated Targets

While Guadeloupe may not be the first destination that comes to mind for fly fishing, it offers the opportunity to pursue world-class species. With favorable conditions and a bit of luck, anglers can target the “big four”: bonefish, tarpon, permit, and snook.

The island is home to a variety of saltwater species, including a solid population of resident baby tarpon, complemented by larger migratory tarpon that arrive with the sargassum. Anglers will also find a healthy population of large bonefish, a few permit, and massive snook, with some individuals exceeding the 100cm mark.

The Silver Rockets

The primary focus of our recent Caribbean trip was, of course, the bonefish. This elusive species, known as the “ghost of the flats,” has inspired countless stories over the years. While we don’t claim to reinvent the game when it comes to chasing this silver rascal, we were eager to experience the thrill of hooking one of these silver rockets.

In the French West Indies, bonefish can grow large, with specimens measuring up to 65cm being quite common. However, they rarely school in large numbers. Most encounters involve small groups of four or five fish, or even a lone individual patrolling the flats in search of an easy meal.

Guadeloupe’s bonefish inhabit a range of environments, from flats and mangroves to deeper areas and sandy beaches. For fly anglers, the sight of bonefish tailing in shallow waters is an exhilarating experience.

“These fish are well-educated and can be very spooky”

Most of these bonefish are resident fish that remain in the same areas yearround. This familiarity with their environment makes them highly aware of their surroundings and often wary of anglers. With only a few accessible flats across the main islands, and the most productive ones being the most visited, these fish are well-educated and can be very spooky.

To maximize your chances, stealth is essential. Using a long leader with lightly weighted or unweighted flies and casting accurately are crucial. In short, landing a big Guadeloupean bonefish requires patience, skill, and persistence.

The Spots

If bonefish are your primary target, be prepared for a different experience than the sandy white flats of the Bahamas. In Guadeloupe, the flats’ bottoms are composed of sharp rocks, dead corals, and turtle grass. A good pair of wading shoes is essential to protect your feet.

Whether accessed from shore or by boat, the flats are typically near the surf break, meaning the reef is close by. This proximity can make fights challenging; hooking a massive bonefish near the reef can test both your nerves and your gear.

If the fish reaches the reef, it’s game over. However, this setup also makes fishing exciting, as these reefs hold the fish. By timing your visits with the right tides and identifying the spots where the fish frequent, you’re likely to encounter them again during the next tide.

If the bonefish aren’t active on the flats, consider targeting them around the mangroves. While it’s impossible to access these areas

on foot, fishing from a skiff can be highly productive. These bonefish are more mobile, patrolling slightly deeper waters, and are less pressured due to the difficulty of accessing these spots from shore.

In these areas, it’s beneficial to have an additional, heavier rod setup with a baitfish or popper pattern. You might encounter a big barracuda, a tarpon, or a fat snook - excellent bycatches that add to the adventure.

What Should You Bring?

When it comes to tackle, anglers are often tempted to pack more than they actually need. In Guadeloupe, two rod setups - an 8-weight and a 10-weight - will cover roughly 90% of the fishing situations you’re likely to encounter, especially if you’re targeting flats and mangrove areas.

However, bringing a third setupa 9-weight rod with an S5 sinking line - can be a good idea if you plan to do any blind casting along the reef for other colorful reef species or pelagic tarpon in deeper water.

Since tarpon and other large predators (with the exception of barracuda) rarely cruise the flats, it’s a good idea to carry two separate fly boxes: one with baitfish patterns in a variety of sizes and colors, and another with shrimp and crab flies. On the subject of crustacean patterns, we’ve found that crab imitations are not particularly popular among local anglers - or the fish.

Even for permit, patterns like the Mantis Shrimp tend to be much more effective. That said, perhaps more important than the specific fly pattern is the range of weights you bring. Most of the time, you’ll be intercepting tailing fish in just a few centimeters of water, and these fish can be extremely wary. Very lightly weighted or unweighted flies will be key to your success.

Because you’ll spend a lot of time in the water - and because of the sharp, uneven flats we mentioned earlier - a solid pair of wading shoes is essential. As with any tropical destination, good UV protection and a reliable cap or wide-brimmed hat are a must. We

personally prefer long-sleeve shirts and always pack a UPF 50 neck gaiter. Not only does it protect us from sunburn, it also reduces the need for sunscreen - which the marine ecosystem will surely appreciate.

“Most of the time, you’ll be intercepting tailing fish in just a few centimeters of water”

Finally, a waterproof backpack can be incredibly useful to keep your gear safe while wading or crossing deeper water to reach the flats. Even though most flats are just a few hundred meters from shore, some require a short swim depending on the tides. A dry bag will protect your electronics, cameras, and any other sensitive items.

Make sure to pack the essentials in that backpack as well: a good pair of pliers, sharp nippers, spare leaders and tippet material, and a quality pair of polarized sunglasses.

Guadeloupe in a Nutshell Guadeloupe is an archipelago located in the eastern Caribbean Sea, forming part of the Lesser Antilles. It sits approximately 600 km southeast of Puerto Rico and about 110 km north of Dominica. Geographically, it consists of two main islands - Grande-Terre to the east and Basse-Terre to the west— separated by a narrow channel called the Rivière Salée. These are surrounded by smaller islands including Marie-Galante, La Désirade, and the Îles des Saintes. As an overseas region of France, Guadeloupe combines French infrastructure and governance with rich Caribbean culture.

Located in the tropical belt, Guadeloupe enjoys warm weather yearround, with a distinct wet and dry season influenced by the trade winds. Its proximity to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea contributes to the richness of its marine ecosystems.

The Pointe-à-Pitre International Airport (PTP) is Guadeloupe’s main travel hub and one of the busiest airports in the Caribbean.

Located near Les Abymes and just minutes from Pointeà-Pitre, it offers direct flights from France through carriers such as Air France, Air Caraïbes, Corsair, and French Bee. There are also regional connections to neighboring islands like Martinique, Saint Martin, and Dominica, along with international flights to destinations such as Miami and Montreal. With modern facilities, rental car options, and close access to top fishing locations, it’s an ideal gateway for anglers heading to the French West Indies.

Fishing in Guadeloupe is possible year-round, but the best months typically run from April to July, when water temperatures rise and sargassum begins to wash up along the coast, attracting baitfish and larger predators. Although Guadeloupe is a great destination for DIY (doit-yourself) fishing, hiring a local guide can significantly improve your experience. Whether it’s to save time, access otherwise unreachable spots, or benefit from local knowledge, fishing with a guide is always a smart move.

During our last two trips, we had the pleasure of fishing with Julien Audonnet, founder of Julien Guide de Pêche. Over the years, Julien has built a strong team of skilled guides, each bringing a unique set of tools and expertise to handle most fishing conditions. We especially enjoyed our sessions with Mika, who welcomed us aboard his 17-foot Mitzi Skiff - perfectly suited for flats fishing.

More information at: www.julienguidedepeche.com

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A JourneyBack to My Roots SLOVAKIA

I’m originally from Slovakia, though I’ve lived on the island of Gran Canaria since 2006. My twin passions are fly fishing and photography. Every summer, I return to my homeland to reconnect with the rivers where my fly fishing journey first began - places I now miss dearly while living on an island with no flowing rivers.

By MAREK SIDOR

Slovakia remains a hidden gem in the world of international fly fishing. Though not widely known outside Central Europe, it offers exceptional fishing - if you know where to look. In the summer of 2024, I reunited with my friend Peter, who had introduced me the year before to several magical rivers: the Revúca, the Hron, and the Belá. These rivers have now earned a special place in my heart, and I’ll always be grateful to him for guiding me there.

In earlier years, I focused mostly on the Váh River around Ružomberok and the Turiec River, where I first learned the craft of fly fishing. The Váh is perhaps Slovakia’s most well-known river among both local and visiting anglers - a medium-sized river with impressively sized fish. But for me, fishing has never been about size alone. I’m drawn to the pristine, crystal-clear waters of smaller mountain streams. That’s why, on this trip, I focused on the more intimate rivers: the Revúca, the Hron, and the Belá. It was, without a doubt, the right choice.

Magic on the Belá

For the first three days, Peter and I headed to the Belá River, a stream I had long heard about but never fished. Unlike many Slovak rivers that are regularly stocked with hatchery-raised fish, the Belá is more of a natural sanctuary. Instead of introducing adult fish, only eggs are released - allowing nature to take the reins. While the fish population is smaller and sizes more modest compared to other rivers, the beauty of the Belá makes it unforgettable. Surrounded by lush greenery, limestone formations, and flowing water so clear you can see every pebble, I felt truly privileged to cast my line in such a special place.

The most unforgettable moment came when Peter hooked a large rainbow trout below a set of rapids. Suddenly, I saw him with his rod bent nearly double, chasing the fish downstream through deeper water and across slippery rocks. I had to jump in and help - literally! At one point, I tossed a few stones into the water to steer the fish away from the rapids. It was a full-on team effort, and when we finally landed it, we were grinning

and shouting like kids.To our amazement, the trout was not only big - it was a rainbow trout in a river where this species isn’t typically restocked. I rushed to grab my camera gear, and we snapped a few quick photos before gently releasing it back into the flow.

The only regret? We didn’t have a GoPro strapped to our chests to capture the whole wild scene. I’m pretty sure we could’ve gone viral!

River Riches of the Hron

On the third day, Peter and I were joined by one of my best friends –Remo - for a session on the Hron River. This medium-sized river is alive with grayling and has a healthy population of trout. The fisheries management here is clearly doing a great job. As soon as we stepped into the water, all three of us started catching fish - mostly medium-sized, but a few larger ones as well.

As usual, Peter caught the most, thanks to his deep knowledge of the river. But I wasn’t too focused on numbers. Just being in such a beautiful place with good friends was all I could ask for. Often, I find myself spending more time behind the camera than holding a rod.

That day ended early, as a fast-moving storm rolled in, turning the clear water murky and making the fish less active. Still, it had been a satisfying session - with plenty of fish and a camera full of memories.

Back to Revúca: Mountain Soul

The following days were spent exploring the Revúca River near Ružomberok, a stunning mountain stream that I first visited thanks to Peter. This river is one of my favorites - an ideal place to disconnect from the world and soak in pure nature. Like the Belá and Hron, Revúca holds plenty of grayling and wild brown trout.

One of the most enchanting moments came while fishing with my friend Palo. We had been out in the rain most of the day, and just as it stopped, a thin layer of mist formed above the river, hovering about a meter from the surface. I had never seen anything like it before. With the river shrouded in fog and surrounded by dense vegetation, it felt like something out of a dream. Perhaps I’m being too poetic - but to me, moments like this are gifts from

life itself. Naturally, I grabbed my camera and set to work.

Familiar Waters, Fresh Eyes

To wrap up my trip, I revisited the Váh and Turiec rivers. These are larger, more urbanized rivers, but they still hold excellent fish - and for those seeking bigger catches, they are the go-to spots. I make it a point to fish them every time I’m back in Slovakia.

Closing Thoughts

Fly fishing in Slovakia may not yet be on the radar of the global angling community, but it should be. The combination of untouched nature, varied rivers, and the possibility of true solitude is a rare treasure in today’s world. For me, each visit back home isn’t just a fishing trip - it’s a return to something deeper. The rivers of Slovakia are where my passion began, and every cast feels like a conversation with the past. Whether you’re a seasoned fly fisher or just someone who loves wild places, Slovakia has something to offer. And who knows? Maybe one day, I’ll see you there - with a rod in one hand and a camera in the other.

Exploring Slovakia: A Hidden Gem for Nature and Culture

In addition to being a lesser-known fly fishing destination, Slovakia is an outstanding place to explore for travelers seeking a blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and outdoor adventure. The country, located in the heart of Central Europe, offers a surprising variety of landscapes and experiences for its size.

High Tatras and Tatra National Park

The High Tatras are Slovakia’s most iconic mountain range, part of the larger Carpathians. These rugged peaks are popular for hiking, mountaineering, skiing, and wildlife watching. Visitors can explore glacial lakes like Štrbské Pleso, walk scenic alpine trails, or take a cable car up to Lomnický štít, one of the highest peaks. The surrounding Tatra National Park is a protected area known for its pristine forests, waterfalls, and diverse flora and fauna.

Banská Štiavnica

Located in central Slovakia, Banská Štiavnica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country’s most picturesque towns. Once a major center for silver mining, it is now known for its historical charm, 16th-century architecture, and cultural landmarks. The area is surrounded by forested hills and artificial lakes known as tajchy, originally created for mining operations and now used for swimming and recreation.

Vlkolínec and the Liptov Region

Vlkolínec, also a UNESCO-listed site, is a well-preserved mountain village representing traditional Slovak rural architecture. It is located in the Liptov region, near the town of Ružomberok, an area rich in outdoor activities and natural beauty. The region is ideal for hiking, mountain biking, and visiting nearby rivers like the Revúca and Váh, which are popular among anglers.

Orava Region and Orava Castle

Northern Slovakia’s Orava region is home to one of the most impressive castles in Central Europe—Orava Castle. Perched high above the Orava River, the castle dates back to the 13th century and offers panoramic views, exhibitions, and historical reenactments. The region also features scenic villages, wooden architecture, and traditional cheese-making.

Bratislava and the Danube Region

Slovakia’s capital city, Bratislava, lies along the Danube River and borders both Austria and Hungary. It features a compact, walkable old town with a medieval castle, baroque palaces, and vibrant street life. The nearby Small Carpathians wine region offers opportunities for wine tasting and vineyard tours. Devín Castle, located just outside the city, sits dramatically above the confluence of the Danube and Morava Rivers and is a popular day trip destination.

A Well-Rounded Travel Destination

Whether visiting Slovakia for fly fishing or general tourism, travelers can expect a peaceful, scenic, and authentic experience. The country’s rivers and mountains offer ample opportunities for outdoor recreation, while its towns and villages preserve centuries of Central European history and culture.

With good infrastructure, relatively low costs, and friendly hospitality, Slovakia remains one of Europe’s hidden gems—ideal for those seeking a slower-paced, nature-focused alternative to more crowded tourist destinations.

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A two-rod gem with a beautiful private lodge in north-east Iceland THE MAGICAL ‘MIO’

By TARQUIN MILLINGTON-DRAKE

I believe I have discovered a gem, which happens extremely rarely these days, hence my urgency to get it down on paper and let those who may be interested know as soon as possible so they may have the opportunity to grab space before it is sold elsewhere.

Let me give you some context before I describe this ‘gem’. I have fished in Iceland, without a break since 1989, that is 35 years.

I have fished most of the great rivers including Laxa in Kjos, Laxa I Adaldal, Blanda, East Ranga, Thvera, Kjarra, Hofsa, Jokla, Haffjaradara, Vatnesdalsa, Vididalsa, Asum, Grimsa, Breidalsa, Midfjardara, Leiresveit, Nordura, Hitara, Sog etc and many more but most of all, the best of them all by a country-mile in my view, the Sela from 1992 to the present day. I can tell you the strengths and weakness to all these rivers.

My relationship with the Mio has been distant until this past season when I finally got to fish the river for four days and stay in the brand new, amazing, best-in-class lodge. I have driven the river and knew it to be nice with canyons and more open

pools but until you have cast a fly on a river and even spent time alone fishing on a river, you do not really know it.

My clients have been fishing it for a few years and their enjoyment and the numbers of fish they caught despite conditions intrigued me, but this was the year to see it at full strength with the new lodge, not the little old one where – admittedlyclients had been happy.

Let me give you some more background. The Mio is actually called the Midfjardara but it is called Mio to distinguish it from its north-west coast cousin.

It is lucky to be one of the ‘Six Rivers’; a relatively new brand under which fall the following rivers. The Sela, the Hofsa, its tributary the Sunnudalsa, the Hafralonsa, the Midfjardara and finally the Vesturdalsa.

These rivers benefit from the most forward-thinking Atlantic salmon conservation effort in Iceland, which includes tagging on all rivers, radio tagging and tracking on some of them, relocation of fish in the autumn to spawn in tributaries to open up the expanse of water available to the salmon, a massive tree-planting project to enhance bio-matter in the rivers to, in turn, enhance food in the river and perhaps the most enlightened rules adopted on any salmon river which are as follows:

• No weighted flies

• No sink or sink-tip lines

• No hooks bigger than size 12

• Two fishing sessions per day of no longer than 4 hours per session

• No more than 2 fish from any pool in one session

• Not more than four fish per rod per session

• Full catch and release

• Any dead/bleeding fish should be returned to the lodge’s kitchen

What these rules achieve is as follows:

• Less fishing pressure but great fishing for everyone

• Less impact on the fish

• Better fishing for everyone through the season due to less pressure of weighed or bigger flies

• Avoids excess when the opportunity to catch big numbers of fish arises

• A more balanced season for all

• No ‘damage’ to pool for the next guest who may fish it due to too many fish being caught or the way in which the fish were fished for

• No incentive to kill fish in the hope of taking it home by calling it ‘a bleeder’

These rules are working and now there is the data to prove it.

In short, the Mio is in as safe hands as there are in today’s Atlantic salmon world. Furthermore, a fish ladder has been built around the previously impassable falls to open the upper river. At the time of writing (August 2024), I am aware of 17 fish making their way up the ladder into the hinterland of water above.

“Below the falls pool there are some runs and pockets which hold fish at varying heights”

It is tempting to describe each pool of the 12 kms of fishing but that will likely bore you. The river is best fished with either a single-handed rod (I used a 6 weight) all the way up to a 12 or even 13ft rod. Floating line is the normal and the rule so ONLY floating line. At the top of the river is the impassable falls with the inevitable beautiful tail where one can see what fish you are going to fish for before you start. It is the most testing

pool to clamber down too and will not be for everyone, but there are ropes to help as there are on some other pools too.

Below the falls pool there are some runs and pockets which hold fish at varying heights before a series of stunning canyon pools most of which fish at the head of the pool, and the middle as well as the tail which is the traditional place to fish in canyon pools. They are not so deep as to be impractical to fish. Pools like Skrudur and Efri and Nedri Armothylur are as epic pools as you will find in Iceland. There are 18 names pools/runs in the canyons with each one becoming less of a walk climb than the other. The really nice part is that you can walk long sections of it without having to come back up and this makes a real difference.

By Nedri Armothylur one is below the lodge and pretty much out of the canyon. The eleven pools below are either easy access or a short walk and they are pretty pools with nice flows offering opportunities for running and holding fish.

Then you have the Little Kverka which is a tributary that comes into the main stem just below the lodge at the end of the canyon. It does not have classic pools, but it has some good-sized pots and runs where fish stack up and should they take, crazy battles evolve as the fish make their way down through the pots and runs. The Little Kverka comes to a stop at its large impassable falls pool where fish can be caught as well. The reason why I think this river is a gem is because in its 12 kms it has all the qualities of Icelandic rivers, classic canyon pools, beautiful runs, open pools and pots and nooks and crannies. All for just two rods.

Furthermore, my guests have fished it in flood years and drought years, and they have caught plenty during both. As is typical of the north-east Iceland, fish sizes are broad with 20lbs fish possible, fish in their teens likely and grilse of course. Also typical of the north-east, some years are grilse heavy, and others are multi-sea winter heavy, but you cannot have the plentiful big fish years without the plentiful grilse the year before! In terms of fish stocks, as I have said, the river improves by the year and could not be in better hands.

The two rods caught about 42 fish for the three days I was there with one rod fished almost full hours and the other fished at about 40% or less of available time. They tended to stop fishing for the session after one fish.

“The river was full of fish with fresh fish coming”

The river was full of fish with fresh fish coming. I should also mention that, at present, the river comes with a truly excellent young English guide who, at just 21, is full of energy and has a grasp of Icelandic fishing and this river well beyond his years. The new lodge is a massive dollop of icing on the cake! Its closest competitors are the Sela Lodge, now over 10 years old, or Deplar Farm or its outlying fishing cabins but it exceeds them all.

Forget Icelandic fishing lodges – this is a spacious, interior designed house which happens to sit on a bluff over-looking an Icelandic river.

I will let the photographs do the talking but there are three very spacious rooms, all with large ensuite bathrooms and then there is the Master suite which is a bigger version of the other rooms. Those in the Master Suite will be very happy but those on the other rooms will not be jealous of the Master suite, their rooms are beautiful too with fine bedding, proper towels and curtains (not Icelandic handkerchiefs for towels etc!) with Yves Delorme Paris robes etc, you will get the drift! There is a large seating area with open plan dining and bar all overlooking the river.

Above all, the lodge is beautifully designed and spacious, and the tenant has it to themselves.

The lodge overlooks the last two main canyon pools so about mid-river in terms of drive times which would likely not exceed 15 minutes to any pool in either direction.

This year, the lodge will probably be fully catered only (I know who will cater it and they are fabulous) but having experience the lodge with total privacy while self-catering, I have appealed for that to be an option for those that may want that total sense of utter relaxation.

In summary, except for some pools being a tough climb in and out of the canyon making the river not for absolutely everyone and one or two of the lower pools being slippery (so studs on wading boots vital), I cannot see that this little river is anything but a gem.

It is a Sela in miniature, great pool variety, size of fish variety and the finest lodge in Iceland that I am aware of.

For more information, please visit: www.frontierstrvl.co.uk/the-mio

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www.instagram.com/falknertours/

Falkner Tours is a travel agency specializing in fly fishing, hunting and skiing tours in Argentine Patagonia.

We are in the Lake District, in the north of Patagonia. We have hotels, lodges, guides and transfers in this area as well as transfers in Buenos Aires between the international and domestic airports.

We organize weeks of fly fishing from November to April. And among the trout you can catch are brown, rainbow and brook trout...

Come fish in Patagonia with a serious company, where the

ItalyExploringThrough Fly Fishing LA DOLCE VITA

Italy reveals itself in quiet, unhurried moments - sunlight spilling over ancient vineyards, the gentle flow of a river, and the warmth of a countryside inn. It’s a place where life embodies la dolce vita - the sweet life - where time naturally slows, inviting you to savor every detail.

By EMILY RODGER

by CLEM MCINTOSH

Images

For me, fly fishing has always felt like a romantic pursuit - graceful, present, and steeped in appreciation for the quieter joys in life. In Italy, rivers wind through rugged mountains and picturesque villages, offering a perfect blend of tradition, beauty, and tranquility. Casting into these pristine waters reflects the true essence of fly fishing - a timeless connection to land, water, and spirit.

Chasing Trout in Italy’s Rivers

Italy offered more than just trout; it offered a chance to slow down in some of the most breathtaking landscapes I’ve ever seen. Rivers flowed beneath jagged Dolomite peaks and through stone villages where time seemed to stand still. Casting beneath these ancient mountains, I marveled at the variety of troutmarble, rainbow, brook, and brown - that call these waters home.

Each species posed its own challenge. The brown trout, ever watchful, demanded precision. Rainbows struck with intensity, while marble trout, elusive and ghost-like, required patience and perfect timing.

Then there was the brook trout - its vibrant colors and intricate markings stirred childhood memories, reminding me how long I’ve been captivated by the beauty and pursuit of these fish.

Blending Cycling and Fly Fishing

One morning, my guide Alberto Zanghieri and I set off for the mountain rivers, bikes loaded with rods, waders, and gear. I had ridden these roads in the Dolomites many times before, always in pursuit of speed and victory, but today there was no finish line. This time, I could take it all in - savoring the journey without the rush.

As we climbed, I was reminded of my last bike race as a competitive cyclist, which also took place in the Dolomites. I recalled racing past rivers and lakes, pushing my body to its limits, yet my mind drifted elsewhere - toward the waters below, and the fish I longed to pursue once my racing obligations were done. That race marked a turning point for me. For the first time, I wanted to ease off the pedals.

I no longer craved the podium; I craved the cast.

Italy had always drawn me in for the feeling it gave - a counterbalance to the intensity I had known. It taught me to slow down, to truly absorb my surroundings. Now, back in the mountains, still on a bike but with a different purpose, I could finally relish those rivers instead of racing past them.

“For the first time, I wanted to ease off the pedals. I no longer craved the podium; I craved the cast.

The ride through winding paths was a perfect convergence of cycling and fly fishing”

and fly fishing, where movement met stillness, and challenge met calm. That day with Alberto, every catch felt like a victory with deeper meaning. It was as if the Dolomites themselves smiled down, rewarding me for stepping away from what no longer served me, and embracing what did - staying true to myself, and to a life that feels fully my own. It’s in slowing down that these moments reveal their meaning.

A Deep Connection to Tradition: The Fly Fishing Museum in Varallo

Italy’s fly fishing culture is deeply rooted in history, as I discovered at the Fly Fishing Museum in Varallo. Tucked away in this charming town, the museum felt like stepping into a time capsule of the sport. Housed in a historic building, it’s a tribute to Italy’s deep, often overlooked, connection to fly fishing.

The ride through winding paths was a perfect convergence of cycling

Glass cases displayed meticulously preserved rods, reels, and hand-tied flies - some crafted from horsehair and silk, relics from an era when gear was as much art as function.

The walls told stories through photographs and sketches of early anglers whose techniques were passed down through generations. As I admired the delicate, handcrafted flies and vintage rods, I reflected on the sleek, high-performance gear I use today. It was humbling to witness the artistry and patience that shaped this sport long before technology refined it.

The museum wasn’t just a collection of artifacts - it was a reminder of the skill, care, and tradition that continue to define fly fishing.

A Taste of Italy—Beyond the River

Italy’s culture is as much a part of the fly fishing experience as the rivers themselves. One of the places I stayed was a cozy agriturismo, where each meal celebrated local produce and family tradition. One afternoon, I learned to make pasta from scratch, shaping tortellini by hand before sitting down to enjoy it. The agriturismo produced its own balsamic vinegar, wine, and beer - all crafted with respect for time-honored methods.

The patience poured into every detail of life here mirrored what fly fishing has always meant to me; a reminder that the process is as meaningful as the outcome. What made the experience richer was the camaraderie that unfolded around the table. I met Giorgio and Omar during my trip, and we gathered at the agriturismo for lunch with their friends - some who drove hours just to be there. It wasn’t just about fishing; it was about connection, shared passion, and the joy of being welcomed into a community. Italians have a way of making everything flow effortlessly - conversation, friendship, and of course, wine, which flowed as freely as the stories shared.

Between casts and river days, I tasted 36-month aged Parmigiano-Reggiano at its source, learned the story behind aged balsamic vinegar, and laughed over home-cooked meals with new friends. Fly fishing has always brought more than fish. It takes us into places and moments we might not have found otherwise - into kitchens, vineyards, and gatherings where bonds form and feel timeless. Despite language barriers, fly fishing

becomes a shared language, one that unites us through a love for water, nature, and the stories they hold.

Reflections on Italy as a Fly Fishing Destination

Italy offers more than excellent fishing; it nourishes the spirit. From the snow-covered Dolomites to the serene streams near Varallo, it feels as though you’re casting in a place unchanged for centuries.

The more I travel, the more I want to immerse myself not only in the fishing, but in the culture and history of the places I visit. Whether learning to make pasta, exploring villages, or meeting locals who have fished these waters for generations, each experience becomes richer when I embrace everything a destination offers - and stay curious about the feeling it leaves behind. Italy is where fly fishing truly becomes more than the catch - it’s about embracing la dolce vita, savoring each cast, each meal, each connection. Life, like fly fishing, layers experience upon experience - timeless, classic, meaningful. We just have to slow down enough to feel it.

It’s here that I’m reminded why fly fishing feels so romantic: the way time stretches, how each cast is filled with intention, and how the beauty of a place seeps into every part of the experience. In Italy, it’s never just about catching fish - it’s about being fully present, swept up in the grace, the stillness, and the simple joy of being exactly where you’re meant to be. It’s no wonder I am constantly drawn to go back.

The

Italian Dolomites//

The fly fishing season in the Dolomites typically spans from May to October, with spring runoff giving way to the gentle flows of summer and early autumn. Anglers can expect a mix of dry fly and nymph opportunities, depending on conditions. Accessing these rivers often requires a state fishing license, along with local daily permits, which vary by region. Many of the best experiences, however, are found through the guidance of seasoned local experts. Accommodations in the region often enhance the fly fishing journey. Staying at an agriturismo - a traditional Italian farmhouse turned guesthouse - means not

only proximity to rivers but immersion in the rhythms of rural life. Here, meals are made from scratch with local ingredients: hand-rolled pasta, house-aged balsamic vinegar, wine pressed from grapes grown on-site. The same care that goes into tying a perfect fly is mirrored in every dish, every gesture of hospitality.

For those looking to experience fly fishing in Italy, Italian Fly Fishing Tours offers unique adventures that blend cultural immersion with unforgettable fishing in both alpine and spring creek settings. I also host trips with them throughout the year, creating opportunities for guests to explore this incredible country while casting in some of its most scenic waters. Whether you’re a seasoned angler or brand new to the sport, these hosted experiences take care of all the logistics—from local guides and permits to gear, transportation, and accommodations—so all you have to do is get yourself to Italy. Traveling within Italy is incredibly easy, thanks to a well-connected network of international airports, rail lines, and roads that guide travelers into the heart of any region.

Interested in joining? To learn more about upcoming hosted trips or to plan your own custom fly fishing experience in Italy, feel free to reach out directly to Italian Fly Fishing Tours: www.italianflyfishingtours.com

Or connect with me : www.emilysrodger.com

Logistics //

Traveling around Italy is easier than one might expect, thanks to a well-connected network of international airports, train stations, and well-maintained roads.

Whether you’re joining me on a hosted trip or planning a custom adventure through Italian Fly Fishing Tours, all trip logistics—transportation, accommodations, permits, and guides—are fully taken care of, so you can simply show up and enjoy.

Many guests choose to extend their trip to explore more of Italy—whether it’s wandering through Florence, wine tasting in Tuscany, or visiting historic landmarks in Rome.

Major airports offering convenient access to fly fishing destinations include:

• Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ)

Centrally located and well-connected to both northern and central Italy.

• Milan Bergamo Airport (BGY)

– A great option for travelers flying into northern Italy, with car rentals available on site.

• Florence Airport (FLR) Ideal for exploring Tuscany and surrounding areas before or after your fishing adventure.

• Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) – Italy’s largest international airport with direct connections to most global hubs.

Wherever your journey begins, Italy’s beauty and variety make it the perfect backdrop for both adventure and exploration.

FOR FLY FISHERMAN. BY FLY FISHERMAN.

NASF NORWAY

Catch and Release Measure Tape

When you buy the new measuring tape from Redd Villaksen, all distributor proceeds go directly towards NASF Norways unwavering work to protect and conserve the wild Atlantic salmon stocks. For more info, please refer to: https://reddvillaksen.no

Support

The Brand Buffet

Grundéns:

VECTOR STOCKINGFOOT ZIP WADERS

Building on a legacy of ruggedness and durability, Grunden’s award-winning Vector Zip Stockingfoot Wader provides best-in-class abrasion and puncture resistance while enhancing the in-water fishing experience with a fully-submersible zipper entry and patent pending fishing features including a 360° pocketing and storage system. The ultra-dense microfiber 4-layer waterproof breathable shell allows fishermen that typically beat up on their waders to explore farther while maintaining a 30K+ waterproof rating for dryness, comfort, and ultimate protection. The patent pending HAULER™ POCKET offers a rear pocketing system that eliminates unnecessary bulk in the front of waders when casting and a welded tippet pocket allows for quick and easy rigging at a moment’s notice. Add in the TI-Zip MasterSeal 10 Zipper for a 100% waterproof, ease-of-entry, 4mm molded-in Ortholite knee pads, and size-specific stockingfeet with TiAlpha warming neoprene and Grundéns has built a bulletproof wader that simply boasts their proven philosophy of providing durable, guaranteed products. For more info, please visit www.grundens.com

Fly Tying Kit: FISH SKULL RIVER CREATURE

Tied with the award-winning Fish-Skull® Baitfish Head and ultra-realistic Fish-Skull® Living Eyes which acts as an important trigger for predatory gamefish. Tied to swim hook-up for gliding along the bottom where ”creatures” typically lurk.This Fly Tying Kit contains everything you need to tie 6 River Creatures, including step-by-step tying instructions, to make it easy for you to get your hands on various needed fly-tying materials all in one place. For more info: www.flymenfishingcompany.com

Simms Fishing:

FLYWEIGHT WADING BOOT

A fully considered update to one of the most capable, comfortable wading boots in the Simms line, the new Flyweight Boot is a balanced blend of lightweight, travel-ready performance, felt traction, and the kind of no-quit durability that gets it done. Durable and lightweight, TPU-based synthetic woven upper material and fitted with molded, rubber toe wrap and abrasion panels protect against wear and tear. High cushion dual-density EVA midsole for comfort and stability. Drain holes included in the boot so water does not stay trapped. For more information, please refer to the European distributor: www.flyfisheurope.com/simms/

Vallon: HERON OCEAN

Fitted with shatterproof polarized lenses, Heron Ocean are designed to handle the intense glare and challenges of open water. Inspired by glacier sunglasses, leather side-shields provide superior protection where regular sunglasses - even wraparounds - fall short. For long, sun-filled days at sea, trust the Heron Ocean. Your eyes will thank you. More at www.vallon.com

Scientific Anglers:

AMPLITUDE SMOOTH TROUT STRATEGIC FLY LINES

Trout Strategic is a series of dryfly trout lines in three different head lengths to accommodate for different conditions, such as small creeks/ rivers, or medium to large rivers, skill set or just personal preferences on how long the perfect trout line should be. All three head lengths have similar tapers that gives the angler the same con trol and feel. The tapers give excellent turnover of long leaders and gentle presentations. The tapers are also designed to master both overhead and spey casts. Slow, medium or fast action rods- these lines will deliver the fly to the target with precision and accuracy. Designed and developed by Flyfish Europe in cooperation with Sci entific Anglers. More info available at: www.flyfisheurope.com/sa/

The Brand Buffet

Easy Shrimp Eyes:

LINE MASTER EXTENSION KIT

Make your Line Master big, bolder and even better equipped for handling your shooting line – especially when going for distance or deep wading. This extension kit adds an extra extraction module to your Line Master – easy to install and fully collabsible like the original. For more information, please refer to: www.easyshrimpeyes.com

Renomed: FLY TYING TWEEZERS

Renomed’s range of fly tying tweezers are made of the highest quality stainless steel, which is suitable for sterilization and disinfection. The tweezer range includes four different sizes and designs: Straight Precision Tweezers, Curved Precision Tweezers, Hackle Fiber Stripping Tweezers, and Short Precision Tweezers. The build and quality is superb, and – having tested them for months – we’ve come to heavily rely on these tools for twisting dubbing and doing precision trimming and adjustments on nymphs and dry flies. For more information, please refer to: https://renomed.eu/

Book Release:

CALLING AFTER WATER BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

We’ve been great fans of Dave Karczynski’s writing for years. A passionate fly fisherman and prolific writer, Dave has traveled and fished the globe while encapsulating the whole experience in understandable, yet fluently eloquent words. His new book, Calling After Water, documents his travels but more importantly does so in a way that turns one mans adventures into a universal story about what really matters – how fly fishing ignites that living spark in us that provides meaning and purpose in life. Through 17 chapters – or essays if you’d like – Dave paints so many beautifully engaging pictures with his carefully chosen words that you can’t help but be there with him on the banks of the River San or Kanektok River – as if the writer was a lifelong companion. The book is worth every word and line – and highly recommended: www.instagram.com/davekarczynski/

StickerApp: CUSTOM STICKERS

We teamed up with StickerApp to create our very own custom In the Loop Magazine stickers — and we couldn’t be happier with the result. Known for their top-tier print quality and durable materials, StickerApp helped bring our vision to life with vibrant colors, crisp detail, and a professional finish. Each sticker features UV protection, making them weatherproof and long-lasting, perfect for laptops, water bottles, or wherever you want to show your support. If you’re looking for custom stickers that truly stand out, StickerApp delivers: www.stickerapp.com

Patagonia: MEN’S SWIFTCURRENT™

TRAVERSE ZIP-FRONT WADERS

These waders are made to handle years of hard use while staying lightweight and easy to move in. Crafted from durable, 100% recycled fabric with a water-repellent finish free from added PFAS, they keep you dry and comfortable without extra bulk. Thoughtful features include a waterproof YKK® zipper and a new, improved fit for better performance. Plus, they’re made in a Fair Trade Certified™ factory, so you can feel good about how they’re made. More at www.patagonia.com

The Brand Buffet

Bajio:

ZAPATA SUNGLASSES

This frame was named after the Zapata swamp in Cuba. This swamp is infested with permit, bonefish, snook, tarpon, snapper, and barracuda. They are keen to eat anything in front of them, and Bajio made a frame you can feed them in. With integrated side shields and an arched brow design, you’ll see your target species long before your line leaves the reel. Features narrow temples, side shields (sun blocking), ergo rubber nose pads, ergo rubber temple tips, built in sun ledge, and Flex hinges. For more info, please refer to: www.bajiosunglasses.com

Simms Fishing: FLYWEIGHT PACKABLE WADERS

The Flyweight Packable Wader embraces all the waterproof breathability of your favorite waders into a lightweight, selfstowing package for easy travel. Features include a rugged 4-layer lower, waist- to chest-high adjustability, and a comfortable stockingfoot that syncs with a full range of wading footwear. Features the following: Toray QuadraLam 4-layer waterproof breathable laminate from the waist down; Lightweight, packable Toray 2.5-layer upper to ensure waterproofing and breathability from the waist up; The innovative suspender design enables convertibility from chest-high protection to a waist-high solution; Wader packs into the chest pocket for convenient carry. For more info, please refer to European distributor Flyfish Europe: www.flyfisheurope.com/simms/

elencuentroflyfishing.com • info@elencuentroflyfishing.com With three destinations offering access to a tremendous range of fisheries, and flexible, multi-day guided fishing and outdoor activity packages, El Encuentro can create the ideal trip for you.

Discovering the Remote Rivers of the Chilean Fjords DEEP IN THE ANDES

South of the city of Puerto Montt in Chile, the Andes Mountains rise straight from the Pacific Ocean, forming a natural maze of countless fjords, islands, valleys, and rivers. Many of these remote waterways remain unnamed and don’t even appear on maps. The area, roughly the size of the UK and Switzerland combined, is home to only half a million people - 80% of whom live in a handful of cities and small villages. This leaves the majority of the 280,000-square-kilometer territory mostly uninhabited.

By CRISTIAN DUFFLOCQ

Years ago, my brother Marcelo was flying over this region in a floatplane, returning from a trip exploring remote rivers near the Argentine border. Gazing down, mesmerized by the crystal-clear rivers flowing into the ocean, he asked the pilot - an avid fisherman himself - if they could descend into one narrow fjord. The pilot eagerly obliged. After securing the plane, they walked upriver and began fishing near the first current.

They had no idea whether they’d find fish at all - and if they did, what kind. Trout and salmon are not native anywhere in the world south of the equator, and Chile is no exception. The river flowed clear, green-blue through a narrow valley cloaked in virgin temperate rainforest, all the way to the snow-covered peaks. There were no towns, roads, or signs of human presence - truly untouched wilderness.

During low tide, the lower part of the river flowed directly over the seafloor. Rocks were covered with barnacles and marine algae, and un-

der nearly every rock were at least half a dozen small crabs, 1–3 cm in diameter. In the shallows swam clouds of minnows; in deeper water, a variety of other fish of all shapes and sizes.

Compared to the river above the tidal zone, this section was clearly much richer in food. There was sustenance for fish of every size - from 2 cm minnows to 1-meter brown trout. If you were a trout, salmon, or any fish, this was the place to live. You could say it was the “Fertile Crescent” of the fish world.

The water looked like it should hold game fish - lots of them, and large ones. After only a few minutes, my brother hooked into something. In an instant, the fish took off on a long, fast run downstream. Marcelo had to sprint over rocks to avoid running out of line. Earlier that day, he and Chris - the pilot - had been fishing dry flies on small mountain streams using 5-weight rods. Clearly, they were under-equipped. This was a good fish, and they were at least hoping for a look.

Trout and Robalos

To their surprise, the fish resembled a rainbow trout, though with barely any red band and few spots. It had bright silver flanks, a blue-green back, and a more streamlined shape - similar to a steelhead, which we’d only seen in photos. It measured 55 cm and weighed about 2.5 kg. Re-energized, they kept fishing and each landed another of the same silver trout, both slightly smaller but equally strong. They also hooked a beautiful brown trout and a couple of 2–3 kg robalos - a native ocean fish that ventures up Chilean rivers. Robalos pull hard and make a few short but powerful runs. Though they give up quicker than trout, the initial bursts are impressive. (A few years later, I witnessed a 4 kg robalo yank a rod from an angler’s hands.)

The brown trout was golden, with bold black spots and broad shoulders, its small head suggesting a relatively young age for its size. It broke off under some logs before they could get a proper look, but it felt like a solid 4 kg. Unlike most browns in the region, this one jumped clear out of the water several times.

The excitement was palpable. Marcelo recalls pausing from the action to look around - only to realize the scene had changed. The tide was coming in fast and silently. The rocks and logs had disappeared. The river now ran wider, deeper, and slower. Looking at the shore, he could see the water creeping up. It was time to go. Around full moon, the tides near Puerto Montt can reach over 6 meters; further south, tides are smaller, with the largest around 2.5 meters. They released all the trout and kept the robalos for ceviche - diced raw fresh fish marinated in lemon juice and mixed with chopped purple and green onions, red pepper, cilantro, olive oil, white vinegar, salt, and freshly ground black pepper.

Everyone was excited, but the questions outnumbered the answers. They weren’t supposed to find trout there, yet they clearly had - and the fish were reproducing. Someone must have introduced them. But who? And when? The river was inaccessible by road, with no people around. It didn’t make sense.

The good news?

The bug had bitten: we had to explore more of these coastal rivers. The good news? There were thousandsstretching from Puerto Montt all the way to Tierra del Fuego.

“In

Chile, rainbow trout arrived from the McCloud River in California in 1885”

At the southern tip of South America, trout and salmon were introduced primarily through government-led programs and a few private efforts between the late 1800s and mid-1900s. In Chile, rainbow trout arrived from the McCloud River in California in 1885; brown trout from Germany in 1905. Chinook salmon were successfully introduced in 1974, and through self-propagation now occupy nearly all major river systems in southern Chile and Argentina. There are also a few naturalized runs of silver salmon, originating from fish that escaped aquaculture pens.

Initially, trout populations were established in a few rivers and then spread outward - from rivers like the Petrohué, Puelo, Futaleufú, Cisnes, Simpson, Baker, Serrano, and Río Grande - to create self-sustaining populations. After years of exploration, we concluded that in many of these remote rivers, trout had eventually reached the ocean and migrated along the coast. Trout can tolerate some salinity and adapt to marine environments - especially anadromous strains, like sea-run browns in the Rio Grande and Serrano. Western Chile’s fjords and islands are fed by massive rainfall and rivers, creating low-salinity ocean areas that resemble lakes. Here, even non-anadromous trout move comfortably from river to river.

Today, trout thrive in most remote rivers across 1,800 kilometers of Chilean fjords - from Puerto Montt to Tierra del Fuego. This colonization was essentially an uncoordinated effort, blending government programs, private action, and natural fish migration.

While we don’t generally support the introduction of invasive species, the case of salmonids in Chile is unique. We aim to appreciate their presence while also protecting the few remaining rivers that harbor only native species.

A rich marine environment

The intertidal zones are rich in food, supporting dense populations of large trout. Glacial rivers often host incidental trout or salmon seeking clear tributaries for spawning. We also believe trout may venture into fjords and even open ocean during periods of high precipitation, swimming in surface layers of freshwater. These fish can dive momentarily into deeper, saltier water to feed on marine fish and crustaceans. This behavior helps explain the seasonal arrival of big fish in some rivers before the spawning season.

We’ve explored the northern third of this territory aboard a motor yacht, navigating calm fjord waters isolated from the open ocean by a coastal mountain range west of the Andes. Many Andean rivers drain into this

protected oceanic zone, which behaves more like a massive lake.

Currently, we run four to five weeklong trips each summer aboard our 90-ft motor yacht - our floating lodge. It’s spacious, comfortable, and safe with dual engines, ample water for showers, 24/7 electricity, satellite Wi-Fi, and an experienced crew. Our chef serves excellent meals, and accommodations include three guest staterooms (each with a private bath), two guide rooms, and a crew area. We host just four anglers plus two guides (myself included), and sometimes two non-fishing nature explorers.

Observation decks offer views of penguins, dolphins, whales, sea lions, and seabirds like albatross, petrels, and pelicans. Hikes through temperate rainforest or along riverbanks give guests the chance to spot endemic flora and fauna.

Fishing the fjords

Each week, we fish 8 to 10 rivers. Some are small with just a few pools; others are larger but always wadable.

We fish near the sea or hike upstream. We target rainbow and brown trout, as well as silver salmon, robalo, and rollizo - native ocean fish.

“Our record is a 1-meter brown trout”

Fish here are aggressive. It’s common to witness large trout ambushing minnows from deeper channels in sudden explosive bursts. They eagerly take flies, but stealth matters - cast 1.5 meters ahead, beside, or even behind them. We mostly use streamers: Woolly Buggers with rubber legs (great crab imitations), and Zonkers in various colors for minnows.

Every trip, someone hooks –and often loses - a trout over 80 cm. Our record is a 1-meter brown trout. If you want a shot at landing the biggest trout of your life, gear up properly:

A high-quality large-arbor reel with smooth drag is essential. Bring floating and sink-tip WF lines, a dozen 8–9 ft 0X leaders, a strong 20 lb tippet spool, and a good 7-weight rod. And don’t forget durable, breathable waders, cleat-free wading boots, and a proper waterproof jacket. Please - no grandfather’s Pflueger reel or a yellow Mickey Mouse poncho. Yes, I’ve seen it all.

Note about weather

I spent two and a half weeks fishing the rivers of the Chilean fjords between late December 2024 and early January 2025. During that time, we encountered unexpected hot and dry conditions, which caused river flows to be lower than normal and temperatures to rise rapidly.

While the fishing remained good when water temperatures stayed below 15°C, it slowed dramatically when they approached 20°C — and stayed slow for several days.

Based on this experience, we concluded that to avoid weather events similar to these, trips should not be scheduled during the peak summer months (December to mid-March). Instead, the ideal window for planning these trips begins in late March to April.

Trip Logistics

Fly into Santiago, Chile on a Friday, then take a 2–3 hour domestic flight south to Balmaceda. A driver will transfer you on a 2-hour drive to our base port, where you’ll overnight at a beautiful hotel overlooking the Aysén Fjord. Early Saturday, board the yacht and begin your journey west along the fjord. You’ll fish for six days, returning to port the following Saturday, disembarking by 9:30 a.m. for the return drive to Balmaceda. We recommend combining this experience with a

visit to one of the great fly-fishing lodges near Coyhaique.

Exploring and fishing these remote rivers is a rare privilege. Few places remain on Earth where you can fish in complete solitude, where a bird might perch on your boot as you sit on a log, taking it all in.

Pristine wilderness, oversized trout, breathtaking scenery, top-tier accommodations, and exceptional service make this a trip worthy of any bucket list. For more info:

www.andesjourneys.com www.estanciadelosrios.com

#ifeelsLOVEnia #myway

AHED EL-NAJAR theCrackingNorwegian Salmon Code

By THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Photos by AHED EL-NAJAR, EIRIK NIELSEN, MATT HARRIS, TORBJØRN TILTNES and NILS PETTER STENSRUD

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, he shelved all his international plans and instead decided to spend the entire summer fishing for salmon in his home country, Norway. This led to some impressive catches for Ahed El-Najar.

Ahed El-Najar, an avid trout angler with a penchant for New Zealand dry fly fishing, has quickly made a name for himself in Norwegian salmon fly fishing circles. Especially the fish he caught while spending time on various Norwegian rivers amidst the COVID year of 2020 are nothing short of sensational. With nearly two salmon per day over 45 fishing days, 13 salmon over 10 kg, and a record-breaking 20 kg salmon, it’s no surprise that many anglers, are curious about Ahed’s approach to catching salmon. Catches of this caliber are far from common — so when we had the chance to ask Ahed about his stellar season, we didn’t hesitate for a second.

The person we encountered, an outgoing down-to-earth personal trainer, osteopath, and Oslo resident is still relatively new to fly fishing. With just five seasons of fly fishing

under his belt, he has become entirely consumed by his new passion, and his zeal and dedication undoubtedly contribute to his success as a salmon fly fisherman. Thankfully, the success hasn’t gone to his head. He generously shares his experiences and insights, and we eagerly take notes.

Can you tell us about the circumstances surrounding the 2020 season: why you took up salmon fishing, and what made your efforts possible?

“I started fishing for salmon because of the COVID-19 restrictions, which prevented me from fishing abroad. In January 2020, I was in New Zealand and returned on January 14. I then traveled to Belize to fish for permit, bonefish, and tarpon.

When I returned, COVID-19 shut everything down, and I lost my job from March to August.

Instead of wallowing in the situation, I decided to make the best of it and fully commit to Norway and salmon fishing. After fishing for seatrout on the coast throughout spring, I began my salmon season in June.”

What was the result of your efforts?

“The season amounted to 45 days of salmon fishing, landing a total of 87 salmon. Thirteen of these were over 10 kg, with four between 13 and 15 kg, and one was a magical 20 kg.”

What was the biggest moment of the season?

“The biggest moment was definitely catching the 20 kg salmon, a fish I never dared dream of. My good friend Martin also caught a 10.5 kg seatrout just five minutes before I hooked my record salmon. It was a shared dream come true for both of us.”

What kind of research did you do before the season?

“I chose fishing spots and rivers based on availability. Due to COVID, there were few foreign anglers, allowing me more freedom to improvise and move around based on water levels and weather. This flexibility meant that my friends and I often hit the right conditions.”

How did you approach the season and the way it progressed?

“I began the season with a trip to the Orkla River from June 13–15, landing a silver salmon that gave me the confidence to continue.

I fished with three skilled friends, and the trip was mostly about learning from them. That weekend, my friends landed three salmon at 10 kg, 8 kg, and 6 kg. That made me determined to return, and a spontaneous trip the following weekend resulted in two more salmon at 2 and 8 kg.

That kick-started the rest of my journey!

I then traveled with friends to Jølstra and back to Orkla and Gaula, where I caught my first 10 kg salmon and a 15 kg one (on the Orkla). In Gaula, I landed fish at 11.5 kg and 13 kg.

After that, I headed to Northern Norway to fish both salmon and trout in the famous Reisa and Vestre Jakob rivers, where I caught some fantastic fish.”

What gear did you mainly use?

“I used my 14’ #9 double-handed rod for most of it. I often fished with sink 1-3 lines and tweaked them with various tips. Occasionally, I used heavier lines, including 750-grain sink lines when fishing deep pools or floodwaters. At the start of the season, I mainly used large, traditional flies such as the orange Sierrakorva and Phatakorva. However, my best results came with a fly called the BBR (Black, Blue, Red), all tied by my friend Eirik Nielsen since I had little time to do anything but fish.”

What was the most important lesson of the season?

“I learned a lot from the talented people around me. Being humble and taking in tips and tricks from seasoned anglers was key to my success.

I learned that salmon fishing is heavily based on variation: of retrieve, casting angle, flies, lines, and leader lengths. Because I wasn’t bound by tradition, I often tried things others wouldn’t dare and experimented — a strategy that paid off.”

Have you improved as a salmon fly angler over the season?

“Preparation is vital in everything. During the 2020-season, I was quite fresh, and my gear was limited. This has changed, and I’m now well-prepared for the coming season. For example, you can never have too many hooks or flies, and having a spare shooting line is crucial!

I’ve already checked my backing, shooting line, and tips and purchased new 13.6’ and 12.6’ double-handed rods, plus single-hand rods I’ll use as water levels drop. The most valuable skill I learned was casting effectively with double-handed rods, regardless of the weather.”

Do you do anything differently from traditional salmon fly anglers?

“I always aim to do something different from the angler who fished before me. Often, I think, ‘Why didn’t he catch fish?’ Then it’s my job to try something different. It’s also essential to work as a team with friends; plan which lines, flies, etc., to use on the first, second, and third passes.”

What advice do you have for beginners wanting to try salmon fly fishing in Norway?

“My first tip is to take a casting course with double-handed rods— it’s so essential! If you can join a salmon fishing school, that’s also a good idea. Also, consider buying an all-around rod suited to the rivers you’ll fish.

Sites like www.inatur.no have plenty of excellent Norwegian salmon fishing spots, and my two largest fish were caught on day passes that cost just 300 NOK and 500 NOK. Fish with people you know and like, and have a shared plan—salmon fishing is a gentleman’s sport and a team effort.”

How to Time Your Fishing?

“If you plan well in advance, book your fishing either at the start of the season (in June) or towards the end of it (in August).

strike, while mid-season, they tend to be harder to catch. Towards the end of the season, as fish numbers accumulate, they become easier to approach as they grow stressed, aggressive, and territorial.

However, I would generally recommend early fishing, as the fish at that time still have some urge to strike and have not yet been heavily fished.

If, on the other hand, you have the flexibility to plan more spontaneously, simply keep an eye on salmon stock reports, weather forecasts, and flood reports, and move around as needed”.

Do You Have Any Tips for Online Resources to Help Get Familiar with Salmon Fishing Opportunities in Norway?

“I primarily used inatur.no and elvguiden.no to book fishing spots. I’ve also asked people on Facebook and Instagram for advice.

Early in the season, the fish are usually fresh, aggressive, and willing to

It never hurts to ask for tips!”

Basic Equipment for Norway

For early-season fishing in flood rivers, Ahed recommends 1415’ rods in #9-10 weights. Heavy sinking lines, sinking tips, short leaders, and large flies are essential for success at this stage. Ahed himself fishes with a 14’ 9-weight rod and transitions over the season to lighter gear, lighter lines, longer leaders, and smaller flies.

As the season progresses, he also uses a 9.6’ #7 single-hand rod and floating lines, combined with hitch flies, bombers, and weighted nymphs fished upstream.

Remember to disinfect your gear to prevent the spread of fish diseases or ecological contamination (disinfection stations are found at most fishing spots) and purchase a national fishing license. It can be ordered online: www.environmentagency. no/areas-of-activity/hunting-and-fishing/rules-for-recreational-fishing-in-rivers-andlakes/national-fishing-fee/

Tarquin MillingtonDrake Profile of a Fly Fisherman

Tarquin Millington-Drake is not only one of the most recognisable figures in international fly fishing travel, but also a passionate and deeply thoughtful angler whose journey spans continents and decades. As CEO of Frontiers Europe since 1993, his life has been shaped by wild rivers, elusive fish, and the many people who share his love of the sport. Born in Australia and now based in the UK, Tarquin brings a rare blend of adventure, reflection, and professionalism to everything he does—whether guiding clients to pristine waters or chasing Atlantic salmon in the remote reaches of Iceland and Norway.

By THE EDITORIAL STAFF

Born: 20/03/1965

Country: Australia, resident UK

Occupation: CEO Frontiers Europe since 1st April 1993

Website: www.blog.millingtondrake.com

SoMe: www.instagram.com/tarquinmillingtondrake

How did you get started fly fishing and why?

I started fishing as soon as I could stand up. It all began with a net on the upper Thames at the age of about 4. Soon, I was crumbling bread to entice bleak and dace to enter my net. Next were pike and chub until I realised I could catch chub on a dry fly. Being used to spinning gear I did not really know what a fly rod was or how to use one and there was nobody about to teach me how to use the old fiberglass rod hanging about in the garden shed at home. I taught myself by lying the rod on the ground and stretching the line behind it. I would pick up the rod leaving the tip on the ground and then, slowly at first, launch the cast out across the river. This was highly effective for first ever casts! Then I learned to keep the line in the air and the rest is history as they say. Trout followed, then salmon and now no end of species in many different countries.

What is it about fly fishing, specifically, that fascinates you?

else because of the focus on the matter at hand. Opportunities to travel, see remote wildernesses, and time with wonderful people who share the same passions. It is a connection with nature both in relation to the fish and the wildlife that live on the rivers or flats one fishes. I do not fish for the fight of the fish but the take – the take is the ultimate achievement… the connection.

What characterizes your most special and memorable moments in fly fishing?

I have had great battles with mighty fish all over the world. My first 40lbs salmon is a case in point, it took an hour and 35 minutes, and we followed it for 2.5 kilometres! I remember getting onto the bank for the first time thinking this was the beginning of the end and the fish began to go again, I nearly cried wondering if it was ever going to end!

Freedom of mind and spirit! When fishing, the mind is clear, devoid of all

My first one metre GT hooked on my own, that was interesting! My 26lbs payara in Colombia jumping around the river like a marlin. The list goes on and on. But the very best moments are with special people, in my case many clients.

As someone who did 22 years fishing entirely alone on the Sela (which were utterly amazing years on the greatest river in Iceland by a million miles) there were immeasurable moments when I wished I was sharing what I was witnessing with someone.

The great battles with huge salmon on Alta were shared with my boatmen with whom I have enjoyed countless hours on the river for over 30 years, my life often entirely in their hands as we tumbled down rapids attached to mighty salmon. Two brothers, slightly younger than me, from a family deeply entrenched in Alta history with 150 years of experience on the river.

On the client-side legends like Howard Strowman, Paul Dresher, Roy Flury, David Hoare, Bo Ivanovic and Tony Cooper come to mind, all very different but each legends in their own way in terms of their attitude towards their fishing. Except for Roy Flury, who wrote the three history books about the Alta (Alta – The Story of a Salmon River, Alta Reflections, and Red Letter Days), none have written books or magazine articles or are social media ‘influencers’ or anything but they could teach us all more about fishing than one can ever imagine. Time with these guys on the water or around a fireplace or anywhere, was simply the best. I could write a whole piece just about them!

What is the most important thing you’ve learned along the way as a fly fisherman?

Observation, observation, observation and more observation. Let me explain in salmon terms. Two fishers catch a fish in the exact same place. They go back to the lodge and are asked the details of their fish. One says, I cast where the guide told me and got lucky and what fun! The other says, it was by the truffle rock about three metres down from the break, it came out of the wave and nailed the fly already turning back as it took. I was just beginning to figure-of-eight and speed the fly up as it took, the fly was travelling across the river squarer because it was windy, and my leader was blown upstream a little.

The first angler should be applauded for enjoying his fish quite rightly, but it is clear he has learned very little so almost nothing has gone into his ‘experience’ data base to draw on in the future. The second angler likely enjoyed his fish just as much, but he was looking around and taking in exactly what was going on. All that ‘data’ goes into his ‘experience’ database for another

day and will undoubtedly be drawn upon. Multiply this over hundreds of salmon or trout or on the flats or numerous destinations and suddenly the database of one is huge compared to the other who continues to simply do what his guide says. Nothing wrong with that until there is no guide.

What is it that motivates you and drives you towards new fly-fishing adventures?

People think I have been there and done it all. Not true really. For a start, no experience on a river can ever be repeated because no river is ever the same as the moment you caught a specific fish. Rivers are changing all the time. My 30+ years on Sela or Alta have never been the same. I wish they had or do I really? Any new flyfishing experience is usually a good one but, in the business, things are a little different. If I go somewhere for work, I look at it through work eyes: Are my clients able to fish this place, is it comfortable, how is the food, how is the attitude to safety, it is what it says on the tin, and can this fishery really handle being fished like this for the weeks it is for years to come?

Sometimes, the answer is a clear no, and, in that case, I get on and enjoy it for what it is knowing I will likely never return.

If my thoughts are more positive, I set to work trying to fully understand as much about the lodge, the fishery and the fish as I can. The social media generation, though perhaps better fishers than the generation that have been my clients over the years, in my view, have got things wrong. More and more clients return from trips and comment that they feel they have been misled about the destination but not by Frontiers, by social media. They have seen the photos and videos which always look amazing, but they do not realise and understand the hours and hours that go into achieving those fish and that footage or the physical ability and effort. Some observe what they see and tell me they cannot fish like that and elect not to go. On occasion I correct them if I know them well and how they fish but this is something else that the social media generation get wrong. They forget

that footage of three backlit guys kicking up dust on a mountain trail as they walk out to a remote river taken from a drone sends entirely the wrong message to people who can afford the destination. It does look very evocative, but the reality is there are cars, and they do not have to do that walk. What looks great to some, looks like hell to others and it is often the others than can afford the trip!

Alternatively, the amazing fishing and fish are shown, not the hell of getting there! In the days of selling Ponoi, we shied away from the stunning 40-yard casts across the river and tried to show that the terrible casts or the fifteen-yard casts caught plenty of fish. Often, the cool stuff is to satisfy those making the films or images not the people they hope to attract. The word ego sometimes comes to mind!

Back to what motivates me – in work, to do my job and represent it accurately. In pleasure, time on the river with legends or on my own lost in my own thoughts and observations.

What is your favourite species of fish to target – and why?

I think about this a lot because I keep thinking it should be some cool, crazy species but the fact is Atlantic salmon probably are, which I know might be considered dull! In the off-season I sometimes lean elsewhere but when you are back on a river and witness some of the takes and behaviour, and indeed tight battles due to the fish and the wild rivers they frequent, they are still a truly fantastic fish to catch. The takes are so varied, they fight hard and there is no telling what they might do, they can be teased into reacting, the list goes on. Their only downfall is how scarce they are and that is not their fault, it is ours.

You have been in the fishing travel industry for over 30 years, what has been good and bad about it?

I am sure everyone will think the answer is obvious, it is all the places I have fished and there is something to be said for that. But keep in mind that if you are doing your job correctly, you are working when visiting

a destination. You are learning about the destination, photographing, now filming, social media etc. So, if you are doing your job properly, you are up early photographing and should not be in the bar at the end of the day but photographing some more. When fishing, you are fishing to capture material, so you need to achieve a cross-section of species and show the variation of water etc. One is often at a lodge for less than a normal amount of time and there is a huge amount to get done. You are also trying to bend the ear of the lodge to learn as much as you can from them, making notes to create pre-trip information while keeping in mind that what you experience is not the whole season, it is just a snap-shot so you have to take a much broader approach and listen and learn to work out where the pitfalls are as well and the best times.

Just because there are no bugs when you are there, does not mean there are no bugs! You have to get to the bottom of everything. Furthermore, if you have clients with you, they need to be looked after too.

I always try to do my own fishing away from Frontiers destinations for this reason, otherwise I would always be working and always have one eye on how clients are doing and paying to fish would be a waste.

For me, the real pleasure is a relative novice starting their journey in flyfishing and witnessing them enjoy all the places they have to look forward to. Sometimes I am jealous knowing all the new experiences that lie ahead for them. I take real pleasure from seeing them grow into sometimes amazingly good fishers or beginning to take their kids having learned themselves etc. One must never forget that what may seem like just another routine trip through the Frontiers process is a MASSIVE deal for someone or that person and their family.

On the negative side, there is the odd difficult client but very few. Lodges have grown braver these days. They will often request not to have a client back long before the issues come to our attention. I guess a couple of frustrations are, try as one might, the marketplace has never really under-

stood the fundamental way in which a travel agent like Frontiers operates. We do not mark up and never have, our prices are as quoted online for anyone to see. This makes our advice and care and attention to clients 100% free to the client. We earn our commissions (usually 15% NOT 50% like some people pontificate!) from the lodges themselves. They are our customer! There has always been this great suspicion that we are gouging people, but it simply is not and never has been true. Meanwhile, understandably, a lodge is going to make the case to sell you the space they have to sell and why wouldn’t they?

My other frustration is the travel regulations around bonding – ATOL/ ABTOT etc – some people think they are a mechanism to complain, others think they are a mechanism to get their money back if they do not like their trip. They are none of those things or anything else people conject – their sole use is to repay clients if, in my case Frontiers, goes bust and has used client money to try and operate the company instead of passing it on to where it needs to be going.

We need to go out of business for ATOL or ABTOT, to be any use to anyone. Following on from that, there are lots of small-time operators and group leaders who should offer financial protection but do not. This frustrates me because it is very expensive and very time-consuming reporting how many travellers, for how much money etc and then guessing the future numbers too. What is worse is nobody polices this arena, so people get away with it.

What are your ambitions for the future?

My main ambition is to stay fit and well enough that I can carry on enjoying some of the places I love so much. At nearly 60, I am no longer the spring chicken running around these great rivers. For decades I was always the youngest but that is no longer the case. On occasion people have reflected on such things by saying ‘X more summers’ and that really focuses the mind. For me, it is likely to be 10 to 20 more summers, so fitness and agility are key and working out how to fish smarter for the same results!!

Any cool trips or projects coming up?

No definitive trips planned right now but I have just finished some very cool trips. I went to witness the almost golden dorado-like feeding frenzy of brown trout hunting bait fish in Finland. Before my time at Alta, I visited an old friend who has elected to start a guiding business in northern Norway and will take people salmon fishing, trout, char etc in the wilderness of Finmark using his boats and 6-wheel ATV as well as sea trout in the fjords. Alta was wonderful as always.

I was in Iceland for some considerable time with some of my favourite clients and then had two great experiences. One on a little river in the north-east of Iceland, it is not a fast river but my goodness it has some fish, and they take willingly and fight like no other salmon I know. They just go absolutely crazy. Being remote and self-catering, it is one of the cheapest rivers in Iceland, but it sure has fish. I then visited what will now surely be one of the most sought-after rivers in Iceland.

A two-rod river with a beautiful lodge, I do not call it a fishing lodge because it is too nice for that. The river is wonderful with everything we love about Iceland, canyon pools where we can see the fish, beautiful tails, and lovely hitching runs for fresh fish. Imagine having a river all to yourself! You can also read about it on my blog. Finally, I went to a very special place in Labrador, Canada, where we fished dead-drift dries to sighted Atlantic salmon. Imagine a 17lbs fish rolling on a dead drift dry – ultra-cool! I had some epic battles chasing fish down rapids. Some of the top beats are truly spectacular and require canoe, walking and ATV rides to get there. It is as if one has been granted a special licence to enter the wilderness world of these wild, remote Atlantic salmon. One emerges from the forest and these mouth-watering tails are revealed with fish lying throughout them. To see a salmon rise to a dry, put its lips to the fly and turn away is mind-blowing! Sometimes they sip the dry like a trout, other times a head and tail roll and

other times they come flying, full body, out of the water as they take the fly, and you have to strike!

How did you find your place in the fly fishing industry?

I studied commercial real estate including law, town planning, and architecture but I ended up working for a more country house-orientated estate agent, which had a sporting department to which I was drawn. I always wanted to fish the great rivers of the world. I soon moved to work with Robin Hurt and Charles Williams and their companies Safari South, Tanzania Game Tracker Safaris and Ker and Downey and ran an agency in London called Sporting International where they wanted me to sell their hunting and photographic safaris but game bird shooting and fishing as well. I found myself sitting in a Bond Street Office at the age of 22 in 1987! By 1991 I had met the Fitzgerald Family who owned Frontiers and because Robin and Charles’ lives were changing direction I decided to try and persuade Frontiers to open an office in the UK which they did on 1st April 1993.

At the beginning we shared the office with Charles and Robin before taking it on full time. In 1991 I fished the Alta for the first time at the invitation of my good friend Theodor Dalenson and in 1992, together we evolved and set up the Alta Syndicates, which remain very successful arrangements to this day. In the early days at Frontiers there was no email, no websites just type-written letters, paper brochures and slide shows. In those days we were having to explain to people what a bonefish was or that there were sea trout to be caught in this place called Tierra del Fuego.

I was lucky to be on one of the very first trips to Alphonse living on Tam Tam when there was no hotel or anything there. It was extraordinary. I was also lucky to run the Ponoi River Company for ten years. They happened to be the golden years when fishing was off the charts with 14,000 and 15,000 fish seasons but the staff excelled even the fishing. What a crew we had, and I will never forget that even through those amazing seasons the client comments rarely spoke of the fishing, just the crew

and what fun they had. Of course there were golden moments salmon fishing, crazy stuff like a 17lbs fish caught on a 15 inch piece of kindling with a reel taped to one end and a bent piece of coat hanger to the other and one day over 70 fish landed on ear plugs from the helicopter in a few hours test fishing on the lower river and of course the epic parties with the dual drag lines in the sand where we had dragged guests to their beds, their feet dragging in the sand at the end of the night!

Any advice for readers who would like to carve out a niche for themselves in the fly fishing industry?

It depends on what they hope to do in the industry. In my line of work do what you say you are going to do by when you said you would do it and do it well. Be brave enough to tell people not to go and why, as much as you tell them to go and why – both go a long way. If guiding/running lodges which I also used to do, control the controllables and people will forgive the weather, run of fish, conditions etc. For both – fail to plan/plan to fail!

In terms of the environment, what has most concerned you as you have travelled the world?

I have worked in the flyfishing travel industry since 1989 – that is 35 years – nowhere has got better – most destinations have got worse, and the main reason is human pressure. So, I have contributed to those declines sadly but equally, in some cases, it could be argued that the presence of fly fishers has protected certain environments too.

Do you have any advice for fellow fly fishermen who would like to make a difference on behalf of the environment and our precious fisheries?

With prices rising ever higher for various reasons (they are in every walk of life and hobby) the pressure to achieve one’s money’s worth is completely understandable. However, when your day has surpassed your hopes and expectations, ask yourself if you need to catch yet another fish or whether enjoying what you have caught, where you are and the company of those around you is

equally appealing and maybe don’t catch that last fish.

It is too easy to think that everyone else is doing the heavy lifting on salmon (or other species) conservation. Join and proactively support the likes of Wild Fish (www.wildfish.org) and the Atlantic Salmon Trust (www.atlanticsalmontrust. org) and others. They need your help more than ever before and every little bit of help DOES make a difference. Give the gift of your time if you do not wish to give the gift of financial support. They have needs for all sorts of skills and if you are social media orientated, help spread the word and encourage others.

So, over 30 years in the industry, you have fished in the business and privately all over the world and are perhaps one of the most experienced Atlantic salmon fishers alive today, where does that leave you, what are your thoughts and reflections?

Probably like any job or business, it has been a double-edged sword.

There is no doubt that I have been lucky enough to fish in some wonderful places with fantastic folk due to my work. But there has been a lot of jealousy too. I stumbled into what is now a very long-standing relationship with the Alta through luck for the most part and I have been very fortunate to keep it going. Someone accused me online of being able to go because I over-charge my clients and use their money to pay for my fishing. There is no relationship between my clients and my time in Norway. I stumbled into the Sela too. We were asked by Orri Vigfusson to ‘give it a try’ in 1992 when nobody had ever heard of the Sela. None of us knew what it would be become.

When I started, I was viewed as some upstart who played with the big boys but that was not the case. I just happened to be friends with certain people by complete coincidence. One of my great memories was a wonderful American gentleman who is sadly dead now who became a good friend.

At the time he and one other were the Kings of the Alta with the best boatmen etc. I had been living in the same lodge as him for four days when the phone rang, and it was someone asking for me.

I heard this big booming voice say ‘Tarquin Millington-Drake? Noone here by that name’ and put the phone down. That was how visible I was on Alta at age 26 in 1991!

I did challenge the system a little. I was the first guest to release a fish on Alta (1992) and was thought to have lost my marbles, but it was actually crazy. We caught 27 fish that year in 6 nights of fishing on one rod, all 26lbs or more. By night three we had killed something like 12 fish. It was crazy and most were the Alta standard 25/26lbs hen fish.

I just stopped there and then and have barely killed a fish since unless it was bleeding. In March of 1998 I ran a piece about catch and release in the March Field Magazine – it basically said it was part of the solution and we needed to embrace it.

It upset a few but the UK has embraced C & R admirably.

It is hard to believe that I have done all the years I have on these amazing rivers, and they are still going. Sela, with its Six Rivers Foundation goes from strength to strength and probably has the best conservation project for Atlantic salmon in the world. Of course it is misunderstood and therefore viewed as a rip-off by some. We had our second-best year on Alta in 2022 with 160 fish to the ten rods, only 1992 was better for us. There is hope amongst all the bad news, but we do have to adjust and adapt.

I worry that fly fishing has become too competitive in the social media circles. I have witnessed people catch a fish (properly caught and in the net) and then drop it before a photo was taken and they have a melt down and the cause of that is because they were unable to put it on social media. It astonishes me how many people are mean on social media in general and fishing is no exception.

I wonder if we take it all too seriously these days and maybe the ever-increasing prices for less and less fish is creating that. I always tell my suppliers that price = expectation = pressure on them.

I have no problem with lodges charging what they need to charge but when they get greedy, they are creating a rod for their own back. No matter how you spin it, if you charge a lot, people expect a lot in every regard.

There are a lot of up-and-coming women in fly fishing, certainly in the UK. They have got themselves qualified (something I never did!) and to my unsophisticated eye, they do a good job of representing themselves but, on occasion, you read about them nearly giving up social media because of abuse. I just find this hard to believe and flyfishing needs to find a way that these young talents, who can help the industry by encouraging others into the flyfishing world, can feel whole and respected without having to look for it on social media.

I think overall, social media does more damage than good. It can cause mental health damage too easily and it can mislead and mis-represent way too frequently.

I know it is hard when everything is getting so expensive, but I think the fly fishing world needs to lighten up a little, enjoy itself more, have less ego and, certainly in the UK, it is also going to have to learn to live without or with less Atlantic salmon but there is still a ton of great fishing out there to enjoy!

You do not become a great fisherman by where you fish or what you catch, we all know that what we catch is down to a great deal of luck however you spin it.

For me, the greatest fisherman of all (and so often the most successful), are those that go into their fishing with a smile on their face, a sense of humour, and are completely relaxed and in no hurry.

These are the ones I admire most and try and surround myself with.

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A FLOATING TREAT The Grandis

XL size caddisflies whet the appetite and curiosity of many trout.

Even when insects are sparse on the surface, a stripped Grandis can be a winner on the river or trout lake. Here, renowned Swedish fly tyer Håkan Karsnäser explains how to tie his popular dry fly treat.

By PETER LYNGBY

There are approximately 1700 species of caddisflies in Europe, and worldwide, almost 15,000 insects belong to this family. In comparison, we only have just over two hundred different mayfly species along European rivers and lakes.

Like the mayflies, including the large mayflies, the hatching of the largest caddisflies usually peaks in June. Among fly fishermen, the spectacular mayfly fishing tends to attract a lot of attention, but the fish are not blind to the caddisfly treats, which are usually seen in the late evening when the mayfly fishing has died down.

The imprint of such large insects skittering awkwardly on the surface may be stored in the fish’s memory for later use, or perhaps the trout are simply opportunists who don’t let a potentially energy-rich snack float by unnoticed. Either way, the large caddis flies are present until September and October, where they can be fished both as imitations or as attractor flies that can provoke violent strikes on the surface of the river or trout lake when fished blindly and actively.

Reliable dry fly

The characteristic serrated and backward-facing wings of the caddis are well known in fly fishing, such as the classic Europea 12 of French origin and the famous Swedish Streaking Caddis, which is an imitation of the large spiral caddis - the largest of our local caddis species. In Latin, the large spiral caddisfly is called Phryganea Grandis, which is why the insect is often simply referred to as Grandis among fly fishermen and fly tyers. Among the supporters of the large caddisfly is the versatile Swedish fly tyer Håkan Karsnäser, who has received much praise for his own Grandis imitation. - The mission with my dry flies is usually based on making them durable and ensuring good buoyancy. This also applies to Grandis. Like many others, I often fished Streaking Caddis, which can be quite effective in trout lakes, but I wasn’t entirely satisfied with its floating properties, which rely solely on the deer hair head. So about three years ago I started experimenting with CDC feathers for the Grandis, and after a visit to an Italian fly-fishing fair I got inspired by the Italian style of tying with deer hair.

Hook: Ahrex Dry Long FW 570 #6

Thread: Black GSP

Body: Brown seals fur or similar and natural sand-colored

CDC

Wing: Natural brown CDC and partridge feathers

Head/thorax: Deer hair

I also tried different versions of lacquered feathers for the wings. Of course, the lacquered feathers don’t add much to the floating properties, but they do enhance the profile and the illusion of the caddis’s distinctive wings. I ended up using partridge wing feathers for the wings, as the wing feathers are naturally stronger and more flexible than the bird’s other feathers, says Håkan Karsnäser.

Big flies’ beckon

Grandis has already spread across Scandinavia, the fly has gained several loyal fans who enjoy its attraction well into the fall. - If you experience hatches of the big caddis flies, it goes without saying that Grandis is worth keeping in the box, but the fly is also well worth trying when the insect life slows down and the fish’s instincts need a little extra warming up. In both rivers and trout lakes, blind fishing with a striped Grandis can be the thing to do, and the fly also attracts big fish to the surface on days without much insect life or at the end of the season. In the river, you can let it swing across the current or slowly strip it to get the fly moving on the surface. The same applies in the trout lake, where it’s important to

adjust the retrieve so that the fly mimics a stranded caddis. When the giant Grandis comes streaking across the shiny surface, there’s a good chance of a spectacular trout strike. In fact, we had a great catch of Grandis already during the test period, which was completely outside the caddis season, says Håkan Karsnäser.

Spring fly variants

Although Grandis is designed to mimic the largest caddis flies, Håkan Karsnäser occasionally varies the pattern to imitate the smaller specimens. If you’re fishing dry throughout the season, he recommends trying to tie a series of variations while you’re already tuned in to caddis proportions.

- My original Grandis is quite a large dry fly. I tie it on a size 6 long shank hook and the whole fly is usually 3.5-4 centimeters long. However, the pattern can easily be scaled down to smaller caddis imitations. I also make Grandis using the same recipe in size 8, but when I make smaller caddis flies, I use other birds’ feathers for the wing. There are many options depending on the desired size and color, but I always use the wing feathers to ensure the durability of the fly.

Hackle and body feathers rarely last the and break too often during fishing. The deer hair head is best suited for the slightly larger dry flies, and for the smallest caddis flies I spin CDC feathers for both the head and body. The CDC feathers are magical, and sometimes I just spin whole CDC feathers for the body and leave out the seal wool. Unfortunately, the feathers are in high demand at the moment due to bird flu, so it can be difficult to find good quality in the shops,” explains Håkan Karsnäser.

Tying tips

Grandis is a simple fly in terms of the number of materials. If you ask an experienced fly tyer like Håkan Karsnäser, Grandis is also easy to tie. Especially when compared to the smallest dry flies in the box, which require more skill at the vise. However, as with many simple flies, it’s important to focus on the right proportions, and a few technical grips are important to master. - The right tools and good quality materials are half the battle. First and foremost, make sure to choose quite thin and soft deer hair for the head. Otherwise, it will tease in the dubbing loop and give

a slightly clumsy result. As some of the tips of the deer hair should be left in the finished fly, it is of course also important to be precise with the length of the hair when placing it in the dubbing loop. To give the fly the right silhouette of a caddis, it is also essential that the wing has the right profile. Make sure to choose matching wing feathers from both of the bird’s wings, so that it’s basically a mirror image of the feathers you end up tying in as a roof on top of the CDC feather. It takes a bit of practice to choose the right size feathers, as they become a little slimmer after painting. The procedure is to apply a little varnish on both sides of the feather and then slowly pull the wet feather through two fingers so that it tapers slightly before it dries.

You may want to try this first by simply wetting the feathers with water instead of the varnish. It’s easier to watch the fly-tying video than to explain. When dubbing the body, I would recommend using Marc Petitjean’s Magic Tool. These simple tools are an invaluable help when combining and preparing several materials for the same dubbing loop, concludes Håkan Karsnäser.

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A CHILEAN ROAD TRIP

In the Heart of TroutPatagonianCountry

Chilean Patagonia is nothing short of a fly angler’s dream - wild rivers, gin-clear lakes, endless landscapes that stretch from the rugged Andes to the windswept Pacific. And what better way to uncover these hidden gems than a good old-fashioned road trip?

By HERLE HAMON

After a scenic domestic flight to Balmaceda - where the aerial view reveals just how wildly elongated and narrow this country is, I meet up with my buddy Daniel. He’s a seasoned guide born and raised in Coyhaique, and a specialist in bespoke fishing trips and longhaul exploratory adventures through Chile’s remote wilderness. We load up the 4x4, our trusty steed for the days ahead, and hit the road under blue skies and the ever-present whisper of Patagonian wind, a sure sign we’ve arrived in the South.

Into the Wild

– The Carretera Austral

Our destination? The town of Cochrane, named after the very river we’ll be fishing to kick off the trip. We cruise down the legendary Carretera Austral - a title that feels a bit grandiose given that the road soon turns into a rugged gravel ribbon, constantly under construction just to keep it navigable. Still, it’s the only thread connecting the deep south, so we embrace the bump and dust. Daniel had warned us: the Rio Cochrane doesn’t give up her secrets easily. She’s remote, challenging, and wild. We pass a number of inviting

rivers much closer to Coyhaique, but easier access rarely leads to better fishing. After several hours of navigating rough terrain, we reach a cozy riverside cabin. That first morning, we get our first glimpse of the Cochrane’s waters - crystal-clear, winding beneath dense, almost tropical riparian jungle. It’s like a massive chalk stream, with serious depth, intricate banks, and that unmistakable feeling of something wild. Without a solid guide, you’d be in over your head here. Daniel dials us in on gear, leader setup, and fly selection. This is refined fishing, reminiscent of sight-fishing small dries and nymphs in Europe - but on steroids.

The Magic of the Cochrane

We start out with dry flies, but not the ubiquitous Patagonian “Chernobyl Ants.” The Cochrane is rich with both aquatic and terrestrial life - lush weed beds and dense streamside growth mean plenty of food in all forms. We rig up with a CDC caddis, size 14. It doesn’t take long to spot our first risers. I land a couple of modest rainbows around 12 inches before setting my sights on a tight rise tucked beneath the far bank foliage.

The cast must be laser-precise - no drag. The Cochrane, here, is nearly 70 feet wide and several meters deep. I execute a short drift, and a big brown rolls on my fly. Game on!

She goes airborne the moment I set the hook - an absolute beauty, pushing 22 inches, golden-flanked with an orange tint that looks painted on. Daniel later shows me a true giant he “knows” lives beneath a downed tree. My buddy Jean-Paul gives it a go with a dry, but the fish shuts down after a few misses. These trout don’t give second chances.

We slide downstream, sight-fishing clear pools where visibility is perfect. I switch to a light nymph and take a couple of rainbows on bowand-arrow casts near the bank. The fishing is technical, deliberate, and insanely rewarding. Later that day, the beast brown we missed earlier is back. She’s suspended mid-column, sipping nymphs occasionally. I rig up a lightly weighted hare’s ear scud on a 5X TroutHunter tippet and stalk into position. One careful cast ahead of her path… she slides left. I set the

hook. Explosion! She runs for a submerged log, twice. I’m waist-deep and can’t advance—the water’s too deep. I hold on through the chaos, but eventually she bolts into thick weed and wins the round. That’s Cochrane magic - every hook-up is earned, and not all end with a photo.

Sight-Fishing Paradise

This river reminds me of New Zealand - true stalk-and-cast fishing. The farther we hike, the fewer bootprints, and the bigger the fish.

Spotting a darker shape, I prep for a sight-cast. The sun’s wrong, and I can’t see her well, so I rig a discrete yarn indicator 5 feet above a weighted pheasant tail. Backhand castit’s tight in here, and the banks are brushy.

The first few drifts don’t hit the zone. I swap to a heavier Spanish-style tungsten-head. Drift’s better this time. Indicator drops - I set, and she rockets upstream. Wild rainbow. Close to 24 inches. I’m on 5X, walking the fine line between too light and too bold. Daniel nets her cleanly. Perfection!

We’ve heard bad news, though - locals say poaching has increased, especially in spawning areas. This place needs protection. It’s too special to lose. We push north, bound for another legend: the mighty Rio Baker.

Big Water, Big Dreams: A Float Trip on Chile’s Río Baker

The Baker is Chile’s biggest river by volume - a serious statement when you consider the country’s network of glacial-fed rivers and wild Patagonian drainages. It flows from Lago Bertrand, itself fed by the sprawling Lago General Carrera - a vast inland sea that swallows the horizon.

But here’s the catch: only the upper stretches of the Baker are truly fishable. After it joins with the Río Neff, the water turns a murky chocolate milk, loaded with glacial silt. The contrast is striking - crystalline turquoise from the lake suddenly colliding with the gray sludge pouring out of the Neff. It’s like watching two worlds collide. Rolling up on the upper Baker is an experience. The road clings high above the river, revealing an endless ribbon of surreal blue - so vivid it looks backlit, almost radioac-

tive. On a river like this, bank fishing - especially with a fly rod - is pure fantasy. That’s why Daniel, our local host, arranged a flotada. He’s guided on this stretch for years and knows every slot, seam, and monster trout lie. The scale of this river is jaw-dropping - even for someone who’s fished some of the world’s heavy hitters.

We launch the rafts under pounding rain. Not exactly ideal. These aren’t your average inflatable massive pontoon catamarans with custom frames and gas-powered motors strong enough to muscle against the Baker’s relentless current. The rain kills any surface action, but believe it or not, dry-fly fishing on this beast of a river can be phenomenal when the stars align.

The Baker is a trophy trout factory. Rainbows and browns coexist here, with rainbows often more willing to rise. Daniel explains that this upper stretch concentrates fish like no other. Downstream, the water gets too turbid, so the trout stack up here, thick as thieves. And some of them are absolute units.

Given the conditions, we switch to streamers. The game plan: drift close to shore and pound the bank structure - boulders, drop-offs, submerged logs - while Daniel fights the current on the oars to slow our drift. It’s serious work. Let’s just say guiding out here counts as a full-body workout. No gym required.

I rig up a big articulated olive streamer with a heavy conehead, running it on a fast-sinking line to punch through the current. First cast into a soft edge – BAM! The line gets ripped out of my hand. A solid rainbow, maybe 20 inches, comes to the net fast. A good fish, sure - but not what we came here for.

Every drift produces eats. Eventually, I start hooking into browns. And not just any browns - these fish are built like rugby balls. Fat, heavy, oval-shaped bruisers.

As the afternoon wears on, the weather breaks and the sun starts to warm the valley. My buddy Romain and I push a little farther downstream. The rising temps seem to flip a switch - trout start moving, and we’re into them consistently. Then we hit a steep bluff. That’s when it happens.

Romain lays a perfect cast, and from the depths, a giant brown explodes out of the water - completely airborne. A legit buck, easily 28 to 32 inches. But he doesn’t stick. He just vanishes back into the flow, leaving all three of us slack-jawed and speechless. I can still see that fishburned into memory. Thick shoulders, outrageous colors. The kind of trout that haunts your dreams.

Every season, fish like that are caught and released in this stretch. They migrate between the lake and the river, and if you’re lucky - or stubborn enough - you might cross paths with one.

We left the Baker with a heavy heart and one thought echoing between us: We have to come back. Next time, for longer!

Dry Fly Dreams and Trophy Hunts in Cerro Castillo National Park

The park takes its name from Cerro Castillo - a jagged, fortress-like peak rising above the valleys of Chile’s Aysén region. Castillo means “castle” in Spanish, and the mountain earns its name with sheer basalt walls that

look straight out of a fantasy novel. Daniel had booked us a cozy lodge tucked right on the edge of a lake. After a proper asado and a few glasses of Malbec, we prepped our gear for the coming days.

The area offers a range of lakes - some vast and windswept, others hidden deep in remote valleys. Daniel broke it down for us: Some lakes are dry-fly friendly and loaded with eager, midsized trout. Others hold fewer fish— but the chance of sticking a legit trophy is very real. We decided to split our time: one day of pure dry-fly fun, and one full-on hunt for giants.

Thanks to Daniel’s local connections, we had access to private ranches within the park. We rolled into one estancia nestled beneath Cerro Castillo itself, snow still clinging to its ridges even in late season.

We launched a solid cata-raft - a wide, stable rig with an aluminum casting platform. As I rigged up, Daniel grinned and said, “Floating line only today. It’s going to be a 100% mosca seca kind of day.”

He handed me a fly that looked like it had fallen off a cartoon panel - an oversized Fat Albert with a bright blue belly, probably tied on a 2XL hook. I hesitated. I’m used to throwing #8s or maybe #6s on big water, but this? This was next-level.However, the golden rule applies: always trust your guide.

So off we went, peeling the edges with those buoyant bugs. Jean-Paul and I took turns dropping our foam monsters as close to the rocky banks as we could get. Daniel kept us drifting about 15 meters off the shore, rowing slow and steady. Within minutes, we were into fish.

Watching them rise was pure theater. These browns didn’t explode - they just ghosted up from the depths and sipped that big fly in slow motion, like it was a dragonfly that made a wrong turn.

The key was patience - don’t strike too soon. Easier said than done when you can see the take in HD clarity. Every fish was a solid brown, cookie-cutter in the 18-to-22-inch range. Jean-Paul and I each brought 20 fish

to the boat and missed a few more due to trigger-happy hooksets.

Daniel explained that streamers aren’t very effective here this time of year - these trout are looking up. It turned into one of the most visual and downright fun days I’ve had on the water. Classic dry-fly fishing, but with fish that made it feel like biggame hunting.

The Trophy Chase

The next morning, a stiff wind blew through the valley, and the temps dropped hard. Daniel suggested we try the lake right in front of the lodge. “Low numbers,” he warned, “but some real bruisers live in there.”

Challenge accepted.

We started off with full-sinking lines and heavy black articulated streamers—around six inches long. These flies weren’t subtle. They were meant to provoke. But after three hours, Jean-Paul was still skunked and I had only landed two modest fish. Time for a change.

Daniel suggested we beach on an island and walk its perimeter, sight-fishing the margins.

The wind was now howling - easily 50 mph gusts - and blowing right in our faces. Not ideal. Still, we spotted a big brown trout cruising over a rock shelf. Jean-Paul gave me the go. I grabbed my second rod - rigged with a floating line and a long 4X leader - and tied on a classic tungsten-bead Pheasant Tail, size 16, with a 2.5 mm black bead. The wind kept pushing my cast off target, but I finally managed to drop the nymph just ahead of the trout. She tilted slowly, deliberate as a shadow. The surface chop made it impossible to see the eat, so I struck on instinct. The fish dove deep, using her weight and the current. It took a while, but Daniel finally netted her - an absolutely gorgeous hen brown, all curves and gold, pushing 8 pounds.

We continued the island circuit and spotted two more big fish. Jean-Paul took the shots, including one at a massive hooked-jaw male that surged open-mouthed toward his fly - only to have him pull it away a heartbeat too soon. We’ve all been there. The wind made everything harder, but the clarity of the water and the intensity

of the visuals turned it into a masterclass in patience and precision.

Back on the boat, the lack of streamer action had me thinking—it was time to try an indicator rig. I switched back to the floating line, rigged up a long leader with a small yarn indicator, and started working the edges systematically.Not long after, the indicator dipped hard. I set into something heavy.

This one stayed deep. I was on 4X fluoro and had to take my time. The wind kept pushing us into the bank, but Daniel fought the drift with the oars to give me space. Finally, the fish showed - another massive bécard, barely fitting in the net. A thickjawed male brown, well over 70 cm. Unreal. But we weren’t done. We duplicated the setup on JeanPaul’s rod and kept drifting. Moments later - another takedown, another freight train. This one pushed 80 cm and easily broke the 10 lb mark. Oversized kype, wild pattern, pure power. Jean-Paul redeemed himself with a stunning female - freckled with ruby and ink.

I closed the day with one last beast, again on the nymph, again unforgettable. Despite brutal conditions, we’d had a day for the books. Daniel, who knows every hidden corner of Cerro Castillo, told us about other lakes - places where average rainbows hit double digits.…

Into the Pampa: Dry Fly Paradise on the Río Nireguao

The next morning, we continued our journey northward, heading toward the legendary valley of the Río Nireguao. With every hour on the road, the landscape transformed yet again. We left behind jagged peaks and glacier-fed lakes, trading them for the wide-open spaces of Patagonia’s high steppe. We settled into a beautiful eco-lodge just outside Coyhaique, perfectly positioned for our next mission: dry fly fishing, and nothing else. The Nireguao is famous among dry fly purists, especially for its explosive hopper fishing - and that’s exactly what we came for. There’s something almost sacred about fishing only on top.

Back home in Europe, the opportunity to fish dry flies all day is be-

coming a rare luxury. But here, in this wind-swept, golden pampa, it’s the norm. Daniel brought us once again onto private land - another sprawling estancia he knows well. We passed several gates and eventually reached the river, which wound through the grasslands like a silver ribbon, maybe fifteen meters wide at most. We spread out, each of us claiming a stretch of this pristine water. And it was on.

Every likely-looking spot - under a cut bank, beside a rock, behind a riffle - held fish. Good fish. The average size hovered around 30 cm, with 40+ cm fish being routine. In one small pool, I landed nine trout in a row. At first glance, I would’ve been thrilled with one. And the hoppers? They were everywhere. Swarms of them bounced through the grass, and once the wind kicked up, it rained orthopterans. The river became a buffet of twitching legs and wings. I watched one buttery brown slide out from the bank and start gorging - head fully breaching every few seconds to inhale the helpless bugs.

I sat and watched for a while, spellbound.

Finally, I tied on a big beige foam hopper imitation Daniel had given me and made my first cast. She ignored it, choosing a real bug instead. Second cast, same thing. But the third time? She came up slowly, lips breaking the surface in that hypnotic brown trout way and inhaled the fake like it was the best bite of her life. She taped just shy of 50 cm. On a stream this size, it felt like a trophy. The rest of the day, I focused on hunting. I stayed tight to the banks, crouched low, scanning the shallows for any shadow, movement, or telltale rise. Daniel was right - this river is loaded. Every undercut, every pocket, held fish. In some sections, we found literal schools of browns, from fingerlings to tank-sized adults. I tied on a big parachute sedge and began teasing the edges of cutbanks. Fish after fish rose, slashed, sipped, or exploded. Some ate with the grace of a ballet dancer, others with the violence of a bar fight. I hadn’t seen this kind of fish density in a small stream in years.

This was dry-fly fishing as it was meant to be - visual, deliberate, and wildly rewarding. We had stepped

into a kind of fly fishing time machine, back to an era when trout were abundant, bugs were everywhere, and every drift carried possibility.

A Journey South —

and a

Promise to Return

Daniel had crafted for us an unforgettable road trip along the legendary Carretera Austral. From glacier-fed torrents to highland spring creeks, from alpine lakes to wind-whipped pampas, he knew just when to change the game plan and always had the right spot in his back pocket. Adaptable, calm, and deeply connected to these waters, Daniel was more than a guide - he was a companion on this wild Patagonian ride. And now, back home, all I can think about is going back. There’s still so much to see. So many fish to chase. So many lakes tucked into hidden valleys, so many turns in the river not yet explored. Next time, maybe we’ll push even further south - toward the end of the road, where the map fades, and the track disappears into one of the last wild corners of the Earth - where adventure begins again.

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